Value Stream Mapping of Sewing Section in Apparel Industry of

Bangladesh
A report submitted to the Department of Industrial Engineering and Management,
Khulna University 0f Engineering & Technology in partial fulfillment of the
requirement for the
Course of IPE 4002

Submitted By:
Al-Nahian Bin Hossain
Roll-1211024

Submitted To:
Subrata Talapatra
Head
Department of Industrial Engineering and Management
Khulna University of Engineering & Technology
Khulna-9203, Bangladesh.

05 September, 2016

Department of Industrial Engineering and Management

Khulna University 0f Engineering & Technology
Khulna 9203, Bangladesh.

Report on Value Stream Mapping of Sewing Section in Apparel

Industry of Bangladesh
A dissertation submitted to the Department of Industrial Engineering and
Management (IEM), Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET),
Khulna, for the total fulfillment of the IPE 4002 Course.

SUBMITTED BY:
Al-Nahian Bin Hossain
Roll: 1211029

SUPERVISED BY:
Subrata Talapatra
Head
Department of Industrial Engineering and Management
Khulna University of Engineering & Technology

5 September, 2016

Department of Industrial Engineering and Management

Khulna University 0f Engineering & Technology
Khulna 9203, Bangladesh.

ABSTRACT

Value stream mapping is a lean manufacturing procedure that originated from the Toyota
Production System (TPS). It is used to examine and intend the flow of material and
information required to bring a product or service to a consumer. This thesis has two
major objectives. The first is an in detail literature review on value stream mapping,
especially in relation to useful value stream mapping tools and the application of value
stream mapping in garments industry. The literature review of value stream mapping
provides an overview of this lean tool, which offers a structure for potential study in the
application of value stream mapping in garments industry. The other objective is to
perform a case study of my own understanding in doing this research study and the value
stream mapping of my thesis writing process. In this study value stream mapping has been
prepared in an apparel manufacturing unit at sewing section, as sewing room is most
brimming room comparing with any other departments in this type of organization. Here
on a specific product value stream has been done in current state and non value added
activity was separated and a future state mapping is projected for that style of product.
The value stream mapping process helps imagine the work and target waste, which enables
upcoming improvement toward an improved state. As a result, the superior value stream
maps can be strategy for future studies.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
In the name of Allah, The Most Loving and The Most Compassionate
We would like to take this opportunity to extend our deepest gratitude to the following persons
who helped us a lot in the special studies, which enabled us to complete our report in time as the
requirement for the course no: IPE 4002.
First and foremost, a special thanks to my supervisor Subrata Talapatra
Head, Department of Industrial Engineering and Management, Khulna University of
Engineering & Technology (KUET) for providing us the opportunity to study on His
enthusiasm for scientific research, research methodology and insightful physical understanding
will definitely inspire our future research and work. He encouraged us to grow as a scientific
engineer with his invaluable guidance throughout our work. We are benefited a lot of
professional knowledge in the material science research area, which makes our special study a
memorable and valuable experience for our career.
Thanks to our classmates with their encouragement and help. We sincerely thanks to the staff
members of the Department of Industrial Engineering and Management for their help. Last but
not least, our special thanks, to our family members for their continuous support and advice from
the early stage of our study.
May ALLAH bless the course teachers.

5th September, 2016

Author

NOMENCLATURE
Lean manufacturing
A production practice that considers the expenditure of resources for any goal other than the
creation of value for the end customer to be wasteful, and thus a target for elimination. (Liker,
2004)
Value Stream
The sequence of activities required to design, produce, and deliver a good or service to a
customer; includes the dual flows of information and material (Womack & Jones, 1996).
Value Stream Mapping (VSM)
A lean-management method for analyzing the current state and designing a future state for the
series of events that take a product or service from its beginning through to the customer (Rother
& Shook, 2003).
Push-Pull System
Describes the movement of a product or information between two subjects. In markets,
consumers usually "pull" the goods or information they demand for their needs, while suppliers
"push" them toward the consumers. Push production is based on forecast demand and pull
production is based on actual or consumed demand. (Liker, 2004)
A production strategy that strives to improve a business's return on investment by reducing inprocess inventory and associated carrying costs. JIT focuses on continuous improvement and can
improve a manufacturing organization's return on investment, quality, and efficiency. (Liker,
2004)
Continuous-flow Manufacturing (CFM)
An approach to discrete manufacturing that contrasts with batch production. The goal is an
optimally balanced production line with little waste, the lowest possible cost, on-time and defectfree production. (Bowers, 1990)
Takt Time
Derived from the German word Taktzeit, sets the pace for industrial manufacturing lines so that
production cycle times can be matched to customer demand rate. (Liker, 2004)
Critical Path Method (CPM)
A method for scheduling a set of project activities. (Kelley,1959)

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page

TITLE PAGE.....................................................................................................................1
ABSTRACT...................................................................................................................... 2
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ...............................................................................................3
NOMENCLATURE .......................................................................................................... 4
TABLE OF CONTENTS ................................................................................................ 5
LIST OF FIGURES ...........................................................................................................6
LIST OF TABLES ............................................................................................................ 6
1 INTRODUCTION ....................................................................................... .....................7
1.1 Background.............................................................................................................. 7
1.2 Objective of the Study .............................................................................................. 7
1.3 Significance.............................................................................................................. 8
1.4 Limitations ............................................................................................................... 8
1.5 Delimitation.............................................................................................................. 8

2.LITERATURE REVIEW ............................................................................................8

2.1 Introduction.............................................................................................................. 8
2.2 Purpose of Literature Review ................................................................................... 8
2.3 Types of Literature Review ...................................................................................... 9
2.1 Value Stream Mapping........................................................................................... 10
2.1.1 Value Stream ................................................................................................... 10
2.1.2 Value Stream Mapping .................................................................................... 10
2.1.3 Create a Value Stream Map ............................................................................. 11
2.2 Value Stream Mapping Tools ................................................................................ 12
2.3 Summary ...........................................................................................................21
3. METHODOLOGY .................................................................................................... 22
3.2 Machineries used for Garment Sewing in Mass Production .............................22
3.3 Machines needed to make Basic T-Shirts ...........................................................23
3. 4 Sewing Process Flow Chart for Crew neck T-Shirt..........................................24

4. DATA ANALYSIS AND CALCULATION...........................................................24

5. RESULT AND ANALYSIS.....................................................................................27
6.CONCLUSION................................................................................................................28

LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 1. Types of Literature Review (Based on Galvan, 2006)

Figure 2. Literature Review Process (Based on Galvan, 2006)
Figure 3. Supply Chain Response Matrix, Hines and Rich (1997)
Figure 4. Production Variety Funnel, Hines and Rich (1997)
Figure 5. Demand Amplification Mapping, Hines and Rich (1997)
Figure 6. Decision Point Analysis, Hines and Rich (1997)
Figure 7. Physical Structure, Hines and Rich (1997)
Figure 8. Proportion of value added to the non-value added activity

LIST OF TABLES

TABLE 1.Current state VSM for separating non-value added activity.

TABLE 2.Comparison of Value added to the Non-value added activity
TABLE 3. Comparison of Value added to the Non-value added activity in percentages

1. INTRODUCTION
1.1 Background
Since it originated in the Toyota Production System (TPS), many researchers have discussed the
application of Value Stream Mapping (VSM) in different industries. Value stream mapping is a
lean manufacturing technique used to analyze and design the flow of material and information
required to bring a product or service to a consumer (Rother & Shook, 2003). Value stream
mapping is a powerful tool that provides a visual view of work processes, improves work
strategies and deepens an understanding of eliminating waste and delivering value. Since 1993,
the new philosophy of lean production and the application of value stream mapping have been
introduced in construction (Pasqualini & Zawislak 2005). A literature review shows that previous
studies on the application of value stream mapping in construction have focused on macroprocesses, such as supply chain (Arbulu & Tommelein 2002) or project delivery (Mastroianni &
Abdelhamid 2003), or on single operations, such as components manufacturing (Alves et
al.2005) and masonry works (Pasqualini & Zawislak, 2005). By definition, value stream
mapping analyzes the flow of material and information in a value stream; however, previous
studies did not emphasize the flow of information during work processes.

1.2 Objective of the Study

This thesis has two main objectives. The first is an in-depth literature review on value stream
mapping, especially concerning useful value stream mapping tools and the application of value
stream mapping in garments industry. The other objective is to perform a case study of my own
experience in doing this research study and the value stream mapping of my thesis writing
process. The purpose of this objective is threefold. The first is to apply the knowledge into
practice in order to enhance my learning results and gain a deeper understanding of value stream
mapping. By visualizing my thesis writing process, I identified the waste in the process, tried to
minimize the waste and made improvement to my work efficiency, which will be applied in my
future research studies. The second is that the work flow of my thesis writing can be considered
information flow, and applying value stream mapping into the non-visible information flow is a
gap found in the literature. Thus, the process can be regarded as an example of applying value
stream mapping into information flow. The results of this thesis include the following: first is the
literature summary of value stream mapping, value stream mapping tools and the application of
value stream mapping ingarments industry. The second result is the creation of three current state
maps of my research study, progress meeting and literature reading processes. By analyzing the
current state maps, the waste was identified and future state maps with improvements to minimize
waste were created.

1.3 Significance
First, the literature review of value stream mapping provides an overview of this lean tool, which
offers a framework for future study in the application of value stream mapping in construction
industry. Second, the case study of my thesis writing process can be regarded as information
flow, and applying value stream mapping in the process helps visualize the work and target
waste, which enables future improvement toward a better state.

1.4 Limitations
The limitations of my study include the following: first, the literature search is limited to
research written in English; valuable studies in other languages could be excluded. Second, in the
case study portion, the time for doing one unit of research work (e.g. reading a research paper)
varies depending on many reasons. The time recorded will be an average time, and thus may
affect the accuracy of the value stream map.

1.5 Delimitation
The scope of the research is delimited to an in-depth literature review of previous studies on
value stream mapping and the application of value stream mapping in construction industry. The
practice of mapping out my thesis writing process will enhance my understanding of value
stream mapping, in preparation for further study in this area in the future.

2. LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Introduction
This study focuses on the value stream mapping tool and its application. In order to build the
theoretical framework, a comprehensive literature review is important for the first part of this
study. The summary of previous research on value stream mapping will provide the larger picture
of the current research. . In the second portion of this research, the task is to map the thesis
writing process and the method is following the value stream mapping principles identified in the
literature review. The value stream mapping method will be discussed in the next chapter.

2.2 Purpose of Literature Review

Literature review is a fundamental part of research. Existing literature provides researchers with
background in their interested topics, to know what is going on in their field of study. The

process of reading and evaluating articles helps researchers find connections between the
existing researches and identify problems or gaps that exist in the published studies. Then
researchers start to develop and connect their own ideas to it.

2.3 Types of Literature Review

According to Galvan (2006), there are different types of literature reviews, ranging from
selective to comprehensive. A selective review focuses on a small segment of the literature on a
topic. A course assignment may be an example of a selective review. In contrast, the literature
review in a thesis is a comprehensive review that provides a holistic view of an interested topic
and is part of the graduate thesis. Figure 1 shows the types of literature review.

Figure 1. Types of Literature Review (Based on Galvan, 2006)

Figure 2. Literature Review Process (Based on Galvan, 2006)

The following sections summarize the literature review from several main aspects according to
keywords.

2.4 Value Stream Mapping

2.4.1 Value Stream
The term value stream was first used in the book The Machine that Changed the World (1990) by
Womack, Jones and Roos, and further discussed in Lean Thinking (1996) by Womack and Jones.
In a later book by Martin and Osterling, the authors defined: a value stream is the sequence of
activities an organization undertakes to deliver on a customer request. (Martin and Osterling,
2013). More broadly, a value stream is the sequence of activities required to design, produce,
and deliver a good or service to a customer, and it includes the dual flows of information and
material. (Martin and Osterling, 2013). The activities in a value stream can be the work
performed by the organization itself, as well as the work performed by outside parties; even the
customers can be a part of a value stream. There are different types of value stream. The main
type is one that a good or service is requested by and finally delivered to an end customer. A
value-enabling or support value stream is a value stream that supports the delivery of value (e.g.
IT support, hiring, product design).
2.4.2 Value Stream Mapping
Value stream mapping in the manufacturing environment has been discussed since the technique
was used at the Toyota Motor Corporation, and was known as material and information flows.
Toyota focuses on understanding the flow of material and information across the organization as
a way to improve manufacturing performance. Pictorial representations with process maps are
ways to communicate with different parties in an organization. In this way, value stream maps
can provide a whole view of how work are done through the entire systems.

In the book Value Stream Mapping: How to Visualize Work Flow and Align People for
Organizational Transformation (2013), Martin and Osterling summarized the benefits of value
stream mapping as the following.
(1) The visual unification tool can help in visualizing non-visible work, such as information
exchanges. Visualizing non-visible work is a key step in understanding how work gets done.
(2) Value stream maps can create connections to the customer, which helps an organization focus
more on the customers perspective and deliver more value to the customer.
(3) Value stream maps can provide a holistic system view by connecting disparate parts into a
more collaborative organization, with the objective of providing higher value to customers.
(4) Value stream mapping can help in visualizing and simplifying the work process at a macro
level, which may help in making strategic improvement decisions better and faster.
(5) Value stream maps are effective means to orient newcomers by helping them understand a
holistic view and where they fit in an organization.
To sum up, value stream maps provide a visual, full-cycle macro view of how work progresses
from a customer request to the final fulfillment of that request. The mapping process deepens the
understanding of work systems that deliver value to customers and reflect the work flow from a
customers perspective. As a result, the process of value stream mapping provides effective ways
to establish strategic directions for better decision making and work design.
2.4.3 Create a Value Stream Map
Drawing a value stream map is the result of implementing a VSM tool. In the pioneering work of
Rother and Shook (2003), the landmark book Learning to See provided the first way to see the
value streams that Womack et al. introduced. According to Rother and Shook, the process of
creating a value stream map can be briefly summarized as:
(1) Identify the target product, process family or service.
The process family is a group of products or services that go through the similar or same
processing steps or the most problematic process family that needs to be improved.
(2) Draw the current state value stream map.
The current state map should illustrate how the exact activities are performed in a real working
context. To create a current state map, collect data and information by walking the flow and
interviewing the people who perform the tasks. With the information gathered through the
process, the current state value stream map can be created using pre-defined symbols
representing different elements in the value stream, which shows the information, process steps
required and current delays to deliver the request product or service to the customer.

(3) Analyze the current state value stream map.

After the current state map is completed, the team may go through the process of assessing the
current state value map in terms of creating flow by eliminating waste. In this step, there are
several lean principles that can facilitate the improvement of the value stream (e.g., takt time,
continuous flow, etc.).
(4) Draw a future state value stream map
The purpose of value stream mapping is to highlight sources of waste and eliminate them within
a short period of time. The future state map should be based on an assessment of the current state
map and make improvements that can be achieved. Through implementing a future-state value
stream, the goal can become a reality.
(5) Work toward the future state condition
A plan for achieving the future state is crucial; otherwise, value stream maps are pointless. The
plan for achieving the future state value stream can be a future state map, detailed process map, a
yearly value stream plan or a combination of those documents.

2.5 Value Stream Mapping Tools

Before learning the tools used in VSM to eliminate waste, an understanding of the types of waste
that might occur is necessary. In manufacturing, there are three types of operations that are
undertaken (Monden, 2011): (1) Non-value adding; (2) Necessary but non-value adding; and (3)
Value-adding. The first is pure waste with unnecessary actions that should be completely
eliminated. The second one involves actions that are necessary but might be wasteful. Value
adding operations are the process that converting raw materials into finished products through
the use of manual labor. According to Jones (1995), there are seven wastes in the Toyota
production system. They are: faster-than-necessary pace, waiting, conveyance, processing,
excess stock, unnecessary motion and correction of mistakes.
In the study conducted by Hines and Rich (1997), seven new tools are presented regarding the
seven wastes. The first tool, process activity mapping, helps in generating solutions to reduce
waste. Table 3 is the map drawn according to Hines and Rich. First, analyze and study the flow
of processes, then record in detail all items required in each process. Next, list each process and
categorize into activity types (e.g., operation, transport, inspection and storage); darker shade
box shows the type. Then, identify any waste in the processes and consider a better and more
efficient way to rearrange the process.

The second tool, supply chain response matrix, helps identify the critical lead-time activities
constraining the process, in order to target these activities for improvement. Figure 3 shows an
example supply chain response matrix. The horizontal axis indicates the lead time for the
product. In this example, the cumulative lead time is 42 days. The vertical axis shows the
cumulative inventory in the supply chain, which represents an additional 99 working days, thus
the total lead time is 141 days. Each of the activity lead times can be targeted for improvement.

Figure 3. Supply Chain Response Matrix, Hines and Rich (1997)

The third tool, production variety funnel, aids in understanding how products are produced and
how a company or supply chain operates. This tool helps the mapper to target inventory
reduction and gain an overview of the company. Figure 4 shows the production variety funnel of
a brewing industry case.

Figure 4. Production Variety Funnel, Hines and Rich (1997)

The fourth tool, quality filter mapping, helps to identify where quality problems occur. There are
three types of defects: the first is product defect, which is when defects are not caught by
inspections and are passed to customers. The second is quality defect, or service defect, e.g.
inappropriate delivery (early or delay), or any defect associated with customers experience. The
third defect is internal scrap, which refers to product defects that have been caught by inspection
checks. Then the three defects are mapped out; Figure 5 is an example of a quality filter map.

Using the mapping process, it is easier to identify where defects are occurring and to make
improvement to minimize waste.

The fifth tool, demand amplification mapping, helps in analyzing demand variability. A demand
amplification map shows how demand changes along a supply chain, and analysis and decisions can
be made using the information. Figure 6 is a demand amplification map of one food company. Two
curves are plotted: the lighter shaded one is actual customer sales while the darker curve represents
orders placed with the supplier to fulfill this order. From the map, the variability of supplier orders is
much higher than the consumer sales. Analyzing the demand changes along the supply chain helps in
managing the fluctuations or redesigning the value stream.

Figure 5. Demand Amplification Mapping, Hines and Rich (1997)

The sixth tool, decision point analysis, aids in identifying the point in the supply chain where
actual demand-pull gives way to forecast-driven push (Hines and Rich, 1997). In other words, it
is the point where products stop being made according to actual demand and are made against
forecast only. This tool shows where that point exists. Figure 7 is an example from a food
company that shows the decision point analysis. Knowing where the point is enables the planner
to assess the processes operating upstream and downstream from this point. The purpose is to
make sure they are working under the same pull or push philosophy. From a long-term
perspective, it provides various scenarios to see what the result is if the point is moved.

Figure 6. Decision Point Analysis, Hines and Rich (1997)

The seventh tool, physical structure, provides an overview of the supply chain at an industry
level. It helps with understanding how an industry operates and brings attention to areas that
might need improvement. Figure 8 illustrates the physical structure mapping tool that can be split
into volume structure and cost structure. The volume structure has various tiers in both
distribution and supplier areas, and the assembler is in the middle. The structure shows the
organizations involved in the value stream. In each part, the areas are proportional to how many
organizations are there. The cost structure is similar to the volume structure; however, the areas
are linked to the cost-adding process. In this example, the most cost adding in raw material
acquiring is the first tier. The purpose of the cost volume is to analyze the value adding required
in the final product when selling to the consumer.

Figure 7. Physical Structure, Hines and Rich (1997)

In a later study, the Value Stream Analysis Tool (VALSAT) is introduced. (Hine et al. 1998). This
tool provides an organization with a deeper understanding of its value stream, which the WHATs
represent the required improvements according to customer needs, and the HOWs represent the
possible techniques in achieving these improvements. VALSAT helps determine which of the
HOWs to implement so that the most important WHATs can be resolved.
The tools introduced above can be applied in combination or singularly, based on the
requirements of the individual value stream (Hines & Rich 1997). Thus, choosing among the
tools to effectively eliminate the waste in any value stream becomes vital.
Procedure of VSM
The first step before starting the mapping is to identify the product families. Womack defines a
product family as a group of similar items that proceed through the same basic steps and
equipment within the organization (Womack, 2006). As a second step Womack emphasizes to
determine the current problem(s) with the value stream, e.g. within an A3 analysis. An A3
analysis is a standardized report form used by Toyota to systematically document problems and
their solutions on one page of an A3 sheet. Afterwards the development of the current state map
is ideally conducted by a multidisciplinary team where participants should be from the whole
value stream. Special attention must be paid whether every process step is:
Valuable (out of the perspective of the customer)
Capable (process capability)
Available (utilization of equipment)
Adequate (machine capacity)
Flexible

The final step of mapping the current state is measuring the throughput time of the value stream.
Finally the future state map can be created focusing mainly on the following improvement areas
(Womack, 2006):
Every step must be analyzed whether it really adds value to the product or service. Create
continuous flow: By connecting manufacturing processes (whenever possible) throughput time
can be dramatically reduced which reduces consequently costs. Leveling the output of the value
stream: Womack suggests to identify one spot along the value stream, the so-called pacemaker
step where customer orders are transformed into production instructions. It is essential to create a
standard inventory at this point to operate in a level, smoothed manner, using first-in/first-out
(FIFO) scheduling downstream from the pace-maker and pull signals upstream. (Womack,
2006) Liker (Liker and Meier, 2006) emphasizes that the real benefit of value stream mapping
lies in creating a true system based on the flow of materials and information across the entire
value stream instead of isolated point kaizen. Braglia (Braglia et al., 2006) developed a new
value stream mapping approach for complex production systems. He developed the following
Improved Value Stream Mapping (IVSM) procedure, which addresses the problem of complex
production processes characterized by multiple flows that merge:
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.

select a product family;

identify machine sharing;
identify the main value stream;
map the critical path;
identify and analyze wastes;
map the future state for the critical/sub-critical path;
identify the new critical path and iterate the process.

Bozzone (Bozonne, 2002) emphasizes the reduction of lead time for job shops as the equivalent
of the reduction of inventory in a mass-production environment. He concludes that one of the
main strategies during a Lean implementation of a MTO company should be the reduction of
lead time. Goldratt (Goldratt, 1997) describes the analogies between the lead time of projects and
the inventory of a massproduction. The production of complex products having a batch size of
one can be conducted in a
Project Management approach.
Alves (Alves et al., 2005) et al. investigates the use of VSM for manufacture-to-order products in
a job shop environment. They conclude that VSM for a job shop environment has to be flexible
to deal with its dynamic nature. Within a case study, specifically the fabrication of Heating
Ventilating and Air Conditioning, the authors present a VSM for the fabrication of sheet metal
ducts.

2.5 Summary
The literature review provides a current study of value stream mapping, specifically its principles
and tools, and the current application in construction. Future research could be conducted for the
further application of the different value stream mapping tools. VSM includes a step by step
approach to transform a current manufacturing state into a lean future state, which is the basis of
its success in practice[8].VSM is done visually separating value added from non value adding
activities. In this research following steps are monitored for a specific style:
1. Mention all the operation or steps of job.
2. Create a cumulative chart for that specific style.
3. Measure the time required for each single step of job or operation by time study.
4. Identify the non-value added activity.
5. Separate the each non value added time and make sum.
6. Calculate each value added activity time.
7. Identify the proportion of value added and non-value added.
8. Create the target flow chart by eliminating non value added.
9. Make new operation breakdown for that style.
10. Implement the target (future state) process or operation breakdown in the production floor.

3. METHODOLOGY
VSM includes a step by step approach to transform a current manufacturing state into a lean
future state, which is the basis of its success in practice.VSM is done visually separating value
added from non value adding activities. In this research following steps are monitored for a
specific style:
1. Mention all the operation or steps of job.
2. Create a cumulative chart for that specific style.
3. Measure the time required for each single step of job operation by time study.
4. Identify the non-value added activity.
5. Separate the each non value added time and make sum.
6. Calculate each value added activity time.
7. Identify the proportion of value added and non-value added.
8. Create the target flow chart by eliminating non value added.

3.2 Machineries used for Garment Sewing in Mass Production :

Most of the clothes we wear are sewn by sewing machines. There are several types of sewing
machines used to make our clothes. When garment making was industrialized, scientists
developed industrial power driven sewing machines to meet the needs of mass production. Semiautomatic and fully automatic machines were developed in different stages. Machines are
classified depending of seam types, number of needle used, stitch classes, table bed etc. In the
following list most of the machine those are used in garment making.
Single/multi needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine with or without trimmer
Blind stitch machine/Chain stitching machine.
Flat lock machine (cylinder bed and flatbed)
Over lock machine (3 threads/4 threads and 5 threads)
Single/double needle chain stitch machine
Zigzag flatbedsewing machine.
Button stitch sewing machine.
Button holesewing machine
Feed of Arm sewing machine Label/elastic inserting machine

Bar tacking machine.

Hemstitch machine.
Pin tucking machine.
Smocking machine / Automatic multi needle shirring machine
Collar and cuff turning and blocking machine and pressing machine
Shoulder pad-attaching machine
3.3 Machines needed to make Basic T-Shirts :
Three types of machines are generally used for making Basic Tee (Crew Neck) in mass
production. Machines are Lock stitch (Single Needle), overedge (Over lock) and flatlock (Flat
bed or Cylinder bed). Within the machine types there are various technology levels. A same
machine is shared for multiple operations when work content is less than pitch time and machine
type is same for both operations.
In the following table a machine requirement plan or layout has been shown for production of
800 Tee shirts in 8 hours shift. Machine types and machine requirement in each operation has
been also given in the following table.

3. 4 Sewing Process Flow Chart for Crew neck T-Shirt:

It is always easier to understand a picture than just description. How to make a T-shirt can be
explained many times but students learnt it completely when they see it in the production floor. A
process flow chart gives them the logic how operations follow sequence one after another.
A sewing process flow chart has been depicted in the following figure to guide learners how a T
shirt is being made in a bulk production system. It is assumed that T shirt has neck tape (selfbiastape). The process flow is also showing the sequence of operations that is generally being
followed. Some factory may have a slightly varied sequence.
A crew neck T shirt has six components Front, Back, Neck rib or Collar, Neck tape and two
sleeves. In the figure, on the top four sections of the garment component have been shown. The
arrows show the flow of operations and inside the red circles operation sequence number and
name of the operations has been written.

Figure: A Basic T-Shirt

4. DATA ANALYSIS AND CALCULATION

Scrutinizing the sewing floor for several times actual status of sewing section has been
considered for doing value stream mapping. Here current state mapping has been done to
identify the non-value added activity. For doing so, at first a specific style is selected to run pilot
project. Then for that product operation breakdown is done cumulatively; number of worker,
required equipment, cycle time for each job or operation is listed. Then by further analyzing and
study each non-value added activity was identified and marked. After that non-value added
activities were listed one by one and eliminated from the operation breakdown.
TABLE 1 shows the described process practically where highlighted rows are indicating the nonvalue added activity.

N
o

Activities

Area

Waiting
for front
back
match
Front
back
match
Waiting
for
shoulder
join
Shoulder
join

Table

Waiting

Thread
Cut

Sewing
Line
Sewing
Line

Waiting
for care
label
attach

Table

Work
Statio
n

Sewing
Line

Numbe Cycl
r
of e
worker Time
s

Non
Value
Adde
d
Time

.700

.700

.100

0.155 0.155

7.49

.35

21.95

Table

Sewing
line

Time (Minutes)
for all activities

.10

.94

.15
16.22

Activities

Area

Work
Statio
n

Time (minutes)
for all activities

Number of
Workers

Cycle
Time

.242

.183

.380

.240

.210

.250

.250

.095

.095

.287

1.58

Care label
Sewing
attach at left line
seam

.24

Waiting for Sewing

nk join
line
Neck tack
Sewing
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Neck
rib Sewing
join
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Thread cut
Sewing
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Back neck Sewing
piping
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Piping tack Sewing
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Piping cut
Sewing
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Front neck Sewing
top stitch
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Sleeve join Sewing

3.13

1
0
1
1
1
2
1
3
1
4
1
5
1
6
1
7
1
8
1
9
2
0
2
1
2
2
2
3
2

.18

Non
Value
Added
Time

.183

5.25
.38
70.85
.24

.240

13.17
.21
57.03
.25
4.08
.09
11.20
.29
3.15
.78

2
5

Waiting

26

Thread cut

27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
.
41
42

line
Sewing
line
Sewing
line

Sewing
line
Arm hole Sewing
top stitch
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Thread cut
Sewing
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Side seam
Sewing
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Thread cut
Sewing
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Sleeve
Sewing
close tack
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Thread cut
Sewing
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Chap tack
Sewing
line
Waiting
Sewing
line
Blind
Sewing
bottom hem line
Sewing
Waiting
line

.24

.50

.500

.500

.48

.96

.96

.52

.52

1.350

.367

.148

.373

.330

.450

15.30
.26
19.10
.45
1.40
.38

.367

9.50
.15
3.00
.37
3.43
.33
7.89
.44
7.98

.373

43

Thread cut

44

Waiting

45

Back neck
piping top
stitch
Waiting

46

4
7
4
8
4
9

Thread cut
Waiting for
quality
check
Quality
check

Sewing
line
Sewing
line
Sewing
line

.20

.203

Sewing
line

9.34

Sewing
line
QC
table

.19

QC
table

.203

.290

.187

.187

.30

.300

.300

Total

32

10.400

4.493

13.23
.29

5.20

5. RESULT AND ANALYSIS

Total cycle time: 10.400 minute
Non-value added time: 4.493minute
Value added time: 5,907 Minutes
Non-value added proportion of total time: (4.493/10.400)*100% = 43.20%
Value added proportion of total time: (5.907/10.400)*100% = 56.79%
Number of operator or worker: 32
Number of worker doing non value added jobs: 13 (Quality checking jobs are essential non-value
added)
Proportion of worker doing value added activity = (19/32)*100% = 59.37%
Proportion of worker doing non value added activity: (13/32)*100% = 40.63%
Cost = Let, minimum amount of wages is 5000 BDT (Bangladeshi Taka), (Actual amount is
varied from worker to worker depending on their experience and efficiency)
Total wages for 32 worker = 32*5000 = 160000 BDT
Value added activity required = 19*5000
= 95000 BDT
Non value added activity required = 13*5000

= 65000 BDT
Proportion for value added activity =
(95000/160000)*100% = 59.38%
Proportion for non-value added activity =
(65000/160000)*100% = 40.63%
Wastage: 40.63% time or 40.63% labor is wasted for non
value added activity.
It is clear from the discussed session that through value stream mapping current state of
production floor can be changed in a more balanced and organized state which we are calling
future state mapping. By reducing total cycle time of worker through eliminating unnecessary
operations or jobs, total amount of production can be increased. For the studied style cycle time
for current state mapping is 10.400 minute The reduction of time can be done by eliminating the
non-value added jobs or activities. In this case number of worker is also reduced to a number of
19 from total number of 32.
The comparison is stated in TABLE 2.
Parameter

Total

Value Added Activity

Cycle
Time 10.400
(Minutes)
Labor (In Number) 32
Cost (BDT)
160000

5.907

Non-Value
Activity
4.493

19
95000

13
65000

Added

If we consider the cycle time, labor amount and wages in percentages than from above
calculation it is comprehensible that non-value added activity is covering a good proportion of
share for the following cases. Non-value added activity requires 43.20% time of total cycle time
where value added activity contributes 56.79% of time. Same thing happens for labor, value
added activity requires 59.38% of labor where 40.63% of labor is wasted through non-value
added activity.
Table 3 shows comparison for more elastration.
Topic

Value Added Activity %

Cycle Time
Labor
Cost

56.79
59.38
59.38

Non Value Added Activity

%
43.20
40.63
40.63

Fig.8 shows the proportion of value added activities to the non-value added activities of sewing
section.

Fig. 8 Proportion of value added to the non-value added activity

6. CONCLUSION
Industrial administrative position holders constantly trying to enlarge their profit revenue and
end customers or consumers are trying to get product with better quality and lower price. In this
vice-versa situation value stream mapping can be most efficient and constructive tool to
implement in organizations. VSM is defined as a influential tool that not only highlights process
in efficiencies, transactional and communication mismatches but also guides about the
improvements. From this study, it is apparent that by VSM in an apparel industries sewing floor,
labor amount as well as production time can be reduced easily which is cost effective for sewing
section. A Value Stream Mapping is a preliminary point for improvement projects in which an
overview is created of the lead time, processing time and recovery time. Findings of this research
can be important and helpful to other similar apparel industries of Bangladesh, those who expect
for better production with quality. Further study may be carried out with-in the other sections of
apparel industries.

7. REFERENCES
Alves, T., Tommelein, I. D., & Ballard, G. (2005). Value stream mapping for make-to-order products
in a job shop environment. Construction Research Congress.
Arbulu, R. J., & Tommelein, I. D. (2002). Value stream analysis of construction supply chains: case
study on pipe supports used in power plants. In Proc. Tenth Annual Conference of the International
Group for Lean Construction (pp. 183-195).
Ballard, G. (2001, August). Cycle time reduction in home building. In-Proceedings of the 9th Annual
Conference of the International Group for lean construction.
Bashford, H. H., Sawhney, A., Walsh, K. D., & Kot, K. (2003). Implications of even flow production
methodology for US housing industry. Journal of Construction Engineering and Management,
129(3), 330-337.
Bowers Jr, G. H. (1990). Continuous flow manufacturing. Semiconductor Manufacturing Science
Symposium, 1990. ISMSS 1990. IEEE/SEMI International (pp. 5-8). IEEE.
Fontanini, P. S., & Picchi, F. A. (2004). Value stream macro mappinga case study of aluminum
windows for construction supply chain. In Twelfth Conference of the International Group for Lean
Construction (IGLC 12) 576-587.
Galvan, J. L. (2006). A Guide for Students of the Social and Behavioral Sciences. Pyrczak
Publishing.
Hines, P., & Rich, N. (1997). The seven value stream mapping tools. International
Journal of Operations & Production Management, 17(1), 46-64.