Lonely Planet Publications

12

Destination Sardinia
Despite its celebrity as a holiday destination, Sardinia remains remark-
ably enigmatic. Hidden behind the golden facade of swanky coastal re-
sorts and spectacular beaches is an altogether different Sardinia, an island
of untamed nature and proud tradition, of dark granite peaks, dizzying
valleys and endless forests, all shrouded in an eerie coat of silence. Almost
7000 nuraghi (stone towers) lie strewn about the countryside, a reminder
of prehistoric life on the island.
This beautiful Celtic landscape has fostered an isolated lifestyle still
evident today. Although access is now assured by modern roads, for
centuries many inland communities were cut off from the outside world
by Sardinias mountainous terrain. As a result inlanders, though unfail-
ingly polite and helpful, can be diffident towards outsiders, and many
towns bear the hallmarks of a difficult existence.
To address the traditional scourges of rural life, the regional authorities
are aggressively promoting Sardinia as a year-round holiday destination.
The islands fabulous outdoors potential means that hiking, biking and
climbing are becoming popular activities for visitors. Regional festi-
vals not only great spectacles but genuine expressions of local pride
are drawing tourists seduced by Sardinias folkloristic appeal and unique
FAST FACTS gastronomic traditions.
Population: 1.65 million
The Sardinian coast, however, continues to attract most of the at-
tention and most of the visitors. An increase in low-cost flights into
Area: 24,090 sq km Alghero and Olbia has seen tourist numbers rising in recent years, and
Italys GDP: 1.4 trillion the Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast) remains the destination of choice
Sardinias GDP per head:
for oligarchs, captains of industry and media moguls.
18,570
But while tourism thrives, the rest of the economy struggles. After
two years of expansion, industrial growth slowed going into 2008 ex-
GDP growth: 1.3% ports of oil, chemical and metal products fell and with the spectre of
Inflation: 4.75% recession hanging in the air, the economic outlook looks grim. Further
Unemployment rate: exacerbating the situation is the EUs decision to reduce funding to the
11.8% region up until 2007 the EU considered Sardinia a backward region
and financed it accordingly.
Population density: 68 The man with the job of balancing the books is regional president Ugo
per sq km Cappellacci. Elected on a centre-right ticket in February 2009, Cappel-
Number of sheep: 3 lacci took the reins of power from Renato Soru, an unflinching character
million whose four-year tenure sparked controversy and division. Central to
much debate was a coastal building ban and a tax on holiday homes and
super-yachts, which Soru had introduced as part of a wide-ranging plan
(the piano paesaggistico, or landscape plan) to regulate development on
the island. But the political pendulum has swung right again and with
Soru out of the way, the path is clear for Cappellacci to set his own
agenda. The new president has highlighted poverty and unemployment
as priorities, and has promised to modify Sorus landscape plan.
 13

Getting Started
Sardinia may be an island, but its a big one. Even with your own transport,
you may be surprised how long it can take to get from A to B. In many inland
places the tourist infrastructure is also very basic and it really pays to come
prepared. If time is limited, consider trying to organise trekking, climbing
and diving activities before you arrive. Also be aware that changeable weather
in the autumn and spring can play havoc with carefully laid plans.
Undoubtedly the most popular (and expensive) areas are the Costa
Smeralda, Alghero and Cagliari, but for the independent traveller there is
much to discover away from these hot spots. Although the island is well
serviced by European airlines and ferries, a potential problem is Sardinias
popularity during summer. You will need to book a long way in advance if
youre travelling in July and August. In general the only way to really see
Sardinia is to hire your own vehicle; train and bus services are reliable but
can be limited in the interior, especially outside of high season.

WHEN TO GO
Sardinia is famous for its seven-month summer and in a good year you could
be happily stretched out on the beaches from April till as late as October,
when temperatures still hover around 20C. Touring the interior is best
between March and June, when many towns celebrate their patron saints
day (see p17). Its great fun to visit during these festivals, but youll have to
book well in advance.
Average temperatures are 25C in summer (a little hotter inland) and
around 8C to 10C in winter (a little colder inland, naturally decreasing
with altitude). Rain falls mainly in spring and autumn, and the mountainous
interior receives the bulk of it, which falls as snow on the higher peaks; the See Climate Charts (p223)
plains and coastal areas in the east and south are significantly drier. The ideal for more information.
time for walking in the Gennargentu is between March and June, when the
wildflowers are in bloom and the countryside is at its greenest.
From mid-July all of Italy thunders to the sound of millions hitting the
holiday roads and Sardinia is one of their primary objectives. Hundreds
of thousands pour in daily until the end of August, when the flood starts
to flow in the opposite direction. Its a bad time to join in, as accommoda-
tion can be hard to find, prices reach for the sky and the summer heat can
become unbearable.
Another thing to bear in mind are varying costs between the high season
Easter and from mid-June to early September and the rest of the year,

DONT LEAVE HOME WITHOUT

Travel insurance that covers everything you hope to do, especially if planning to dive, cycle,
climb etc (p227)
Your ID card or passport and visa if required (p231)
Driving licence and car documents if driving, along with appropriate car insurance (p242)
An adaptor for electrical appliances
Some wet-weather gear, a warm sweater or fleece and sturdy, waterproof walking boots if
you plan on trekking (p138)
A set of smart clothes for those nights on the Costa Smeralda
 14 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D C o s t s & M o n e y lonelyplanet.com

when even the busiest resorts drop their prices. Between November and
February some places close altogether (especially campsites), so do your
research first if you plan to travel during this period.

COSTS & MONEY

HOW MUCH? How much you spend in Sardinia depends on where you go and when.
Staying at the top resorts in July and August can be bank-breakingly expen-
City bus fare 1 sive, but visit the island out of season and youll be surprised at how cheap
International newspaper it can be. Certainly, the island compares favourably with mainland Italy,
2.50 to 3 which is generally more expensive. See the Directorys Accommodation
Coffee and cornetto 2.50 (p219) and Food (p225) sections for detailed information on the pricing
to 3 system weve used in this book.
A prudent backpacker might scrape by on 50 per day by staying in
Bowl of pasta 6 to 8
cheap pensioni/hostels, buying food at supermarkets and eating in pizzerias.
Gelato 2.50 to 4 Realistically, though, a traveller wanting to stay in a comfortable midrange
hotel, eat two square meals per day, hire a car and not feel restricted to one
site per day should reckon on a daily average of about 120 to 150.

TRAVEL LITERATURE
Despite the islands striking beauty and rich, rural past, there is relatively
little travel literature to recommend. Sardinias most famous commentator
was DH Lawrence, whose sharply drawn portrait of the island is the only
real travel book of its kind.
Sea and Sardinia (DH Lawrence) Lawrences classic Sardinian travelogue was written after hed
grumped his way around the island for six days in 1921. His empathy with the rural essence of the
island tempers his acerbic, and often hilarious, tantrums at the inadequate accommodation and food.
The Lead Goat Veered Off: A Bicycling Adventure on Sardinia (Neil Anderson) This witty,
light-hearted read follows Anderson and his partner Sharon as they pedal their way round Sardinia,
meeting eccentric locals and sleeping in out-of-the-way spots. There are no great revelations, but if
youve always fancied cycling but dont have the thighs, its the ideal substitute.
Grazia Deledda: A Legendary Life (Martha King) The biography of Sardinias greatest female
novelist, this concise volume reveals much about the Nuorese society in which Deledda grew up
and the boundaries she had to break in order to write.
The Bandit on the Billiard Table (Alan Ross) A waistcoat-straight account of Sardinia in the
1950s. Alan Ross has the tone of a schoolmaster and he takes the island to task in a masterly way,
with anecdotal stories and some sensitive insights.
La civilt dei Sardi (The Civilisation of the Sards; Giovanni Lilliu) Unfortunately only printed in
Italian, Lillius magnum opus is the definitive book on the history, archaeology and culture of the
island.

INTERNET RESOURCES
Get Around Sardinia (www.getaroundsardinia.com) Great for practical advice on travelling Sar-
dinia by public transport. Has links to bus companies, notes on major towns and plenty of useful tips.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Check out the Cagliari destination guide and exchange
Sardinia info on the Thorn Tree forum.
Mare Nostrum (www.marenostrum.it) A fantastic Sardinian portal listing events, exhibitions,
festivals, hotels, restaurants and much more, as well as all the latest news.
Sardegna Turismo (www.sardegnaturismo.it) Sardinias official tourism site is comprehensive,
easy to navigate and packed with background and practical information.
Sardinia Hike and Bike (www.sardiniahikeandbike.com) A great route planner for hikers and
bikers. You can download trail maps and read up about routes, divided by area and level of difficulty.
Sardinia Point (www.sardiniapoint.it, in Italian) Here you will find oodles of cultural informa-
tion, from whats on right now to recipes and accommodation.
Sarnow (www.sarnow.com) A magazine website with well-written features on the island and
plenty of itinerary suggestions.
lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D T o p Pi c k s 15

Rome

TOP PICKS RDIN

((IITTA LY )

TOP CONSERVATION AREAS

Sardinias compelling landscape has largely escaped the ravages wrought by development. But
conservation is an issue and here we highlight the islands most beautiful protected areas.

The Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei e Just off the Sinis Peninsula, Isola di Mal di
del Gennargentu (p200) encompasses the Ventre (p111) features a windswept land-
mountainous Supramonte (p198) and Golfo scape and sandy beaches.
di Orosei (p207). The woods of the Riserva Naturale Foresta
The Parco Nazionale dellArcipelago di La di Monte Arcosu (p98) are roamed by the
Maddalena (p178) comprises seven islands cervo sardo (Sardinian deer)
and some 40 islets. The olivastri millenari (p176) are a group
The Parco Nazionale dellAsinara (p147) of thousand-year-old olive trees overlook-
is home to a population of pint-size albino ing Lago di Liscia (p176).
donkeys. Said to have been created by St George,
Isola Tavolara (p169) boasts translucent the Scala di San Giorgio (p218) is a pictur-
waters and great views. esque gorge near Ulassai.

MUST-HAVE MUSIC
Cultural isolation has made Sardinia a mecca for ethnomusicologists. These CDs provide a good in-
troduction to the original and sometimes strange sounds; see p36 for more on Sardinian music.

Suoni di UnIsola (2003) A compilation of Organittos (1999), Totore Chessa. Guitar ren-
traditional tenores (vocal songs). ditions of traditional Sardinian folk music.
Intonos (2000) and Caminos De Pache (2005), Forse il Mare (1986), Ritmia. Innovative
Tenores di Bitti. Vocal music from Sardinias Sardinian folk music.
most famous tenores outfit. Sonos (1988), Elena Ledda. A popular singer
Launeddas (2002), Efisio Melis and Antonio and friends take on Sardinian folk.
Lara. Historic recordings of the launeddas, Launeddas (2003), Franco Melis. Traditional
Sardinias unique woodwind instrument. launeddas music from a modern master.
Alguimia (2003), Franca Masu. A homage Sardegna Canta (1970), Maria Carta. The first
to Algheros musical traditions, sung in the album by Sardinias legendary folk musician.
local Catalan dialect.

TOP BOOKS
Sardinia has more of an oral storytelling tradition than a written one. However, the post-WWI years
have proved fruitful and Sardinia is now well established on the literary map. See p38 for more.

Sardinia Blues (2008), Flavio Soriga Il Figlio di Bakunin (Bakunins Son; 1991),
Canne al Vento (Reeds in the Wind; 1913),
Sergio Atzeni
Grazia Deledda Cosima (1937), Grazia Deledda
Sardinian Brigade (1938), Emilio Lussu Diario di una Maestrina (Diary of a School-
Il Giorno del Giudizio (The Day of Judge-
teacher; 1957), Maria Giacobbe
ment; 1975), Salvatore Satta Il Disertore (The Deserter; 1961), Giuseppe
Padre Padrone (1975), Gavino Ledda
Dessi
 16 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D T r a v e l l i n g R e s p o n s i b l y lonelyplanet.com

TRAVELLING RESPONSIBLY
In a 2006 National Geographic survey of the environments of 111 island-
holiday destinations Sardinia came 31st. It was commended for its beaches
and unspoilt coastline but marked down for its poor transport networks and
underdevelopment of tourist facilities. This summarises the situation pretty
well. Sardinia is largely unspoilt and the transport network is inadequate,
For sustainable-tourism although to claim that tourist facilities are underdeveloped is debatable.
listings, see the GreenDex Certainly in some areas, particularly inland, they are almost nonexistent,
on p270. but in the big coastal resorts they are second to none. The challenge facing
travellers today is how to get the best out of Sardinia while contributing to
the islands welfare, or at the very least not damaging it.
Your choice of accommodation can make a difference. Many of the big
resorts are owned by international companies which contribute surprisingly
little to the island economy. There are, however, a growing number of locally
run B&Bs and agriturismi (farm-stay accommodation). These rarely offer the
facilities guaranteed by the big hotels but theyre generally cheaper, theyre
often in beautiful locations and many serve superb food. Useful websites
include www.agriturismodisardegna.it, which has lists of agriturismi with
prices, and www.bed-and-breakfast.it.
Restaurants recommended by the Italian Slow Food (www.slowfood.it) organi-
sation look out for stickers bearing its snail logo will usually use local
ingredients and serve traditional food. Another way of supporting island
food producers is to visit markets and local food festivals.
Transport is a tricky one, and theres really no escaping the fact that if you
want to get off the beaten track, youll have to hire a car. Unless, of course,
you cycle (or walk). Bike hire is available in most big towns and there are
an increasing number of local operators offering cycling and hiking tours.
Many of these take you into parts of the island that youd be unlikely to visit
under your own steam.
Similarly, there are a whole range of locally run cooperatives offering
excursions and outdoor activities (trekking, climbing, caving, kayaking etc).
Even if you loathe the idea of a guided tour, dont dismiss these guys out of
hand. The Sardinian wilderness can be challenging and if you venture into
unchartered territory, theres a real danger of getting lost. For further details
see the Tours section, p244.
Common sense rules should also be applied wherever you go: dont waste
water; keep to marked paths; respect barriers; dont pick wildflowers; dont
light fires in unauthorised areas; and give way to sheep on the roads.
 17

Festivals Calendar
Sardinias festival calendar comprises everything FESTA DI SANTANTIOCO 2nd Sun after Easter
from saints day celebrations and religious festivi- Costumed parades, dancing, concerts and fire-
ties to costumed processions, insane horse races works are held over four days in SantAntioco to
and jazz jamborees. For information on food fes- celebrate the towns patron saint.
tivals see p46.
MAY
JANUARY FESTA DI SANTEFISIO 1-4 May
FESTA DI SANTANTONIO ABATE 16 Jan On 1 May a wooden statue of St Ephisius is pa-
With the winter solstice passed, many villages raded around Cagliari on a bullock-drawn carriage
in Nuoro province celebrate the arrival of spring amid colourful costumed celebrations. The saint is
with great bonfires. Youll be sure to find raging carried to Nora, from where he returns on 4 May
conflagrations in Orosei, Orgosolo, Sedilo and accompanied by yet more festivities.
Paulilatino.
FESTA DI SANTA GIUSTA 14-18 May
FESTA DI SANTANTONIO ABATE Held in the town of the same name just south of
MAMUTHONES 16-17 Jan Oristano, the festival involves parades and music
An eerie pagan festival celebrated in Mamoiada. over four days.
A dozen townspeople don hairy costumes with
a half-human, half-animal allure. Ritually chasing CAVALCATA SARDA 2nd-last Sun in May
them are eight issokadores, in the guise of out- Hundreds of Sardinians in traditional costume
moded gendarmes. gather at Sassari to mark victory over the Saracens
in AD 1000. They are followed by horsemen who
FESTA DI SAN SEBASTIANO 19 Jan make a spirited charge through the streets at the
Similar to the festival of SantAntonio. Towns all end of the parade.
over the island set up their winter bonfires for
San Sebastiano. JUNE
FESTA DELLA MADONNA DEI MARTIRI
FEBRUARY Mon after the 1st Sun of Jun
CARNEVALE Period up to Ash Wed The people of Fonni dress in traditional costume
Many towns stage carnival festivities. Highlights and stage a procession with a revered image of the
include the burning of an effigy of a French soldier Virgin Mary, starting at the towns grand basilica.
in Alghero; the sinister mamuthones in Mamoiada;
costumed displays in Ottana; and the townsfolk of JULY
Bosa inspecting each others groins. SARDIA 6-7 Jul
This impressive and ferocious horse race cele-
SA SARTIGLIA Shrove Tues & preceding Sun brates the victory of Roman Emperor Constantine
Oristano stages a medieval tournament of horse- over Maxentius in AD 312. An unruly pack of
men in masquerade involving bright processions skilled horsemen race around the chapel at Sedilo
and knightly challenges. More anarchic horse races erected in Constantines name.
take place at Santu Lussurgiu and Sedilo.
LISOLA DELLE STORIE, FESTIVAL
MARCH/APRIL LETTERARIO DELLA SARDEGNA
PASQUA Easter 1st week of Jul
Holy Week in Sardinia is a big deal and is marked Gavois three-day literature festival has enjoyed
by solemn processions and Passion plays all enormous success since it was inaugurated in
over the island. The celebrations in Alghero, 2006. Readings, author Q&A sessions and con-
Castelsardo, Cagliari, Iglesias and Tempio Pausania certs are held in and around the pretty Barbagia
are particularly evocative. lake town.
18 F E S T I VA L S C A L E N D A R J u l y D e c e m b e r lonelyplanet.com

FESTA DELLA MADONNA DEL NAUFRAGO processions of religious fraternities and the colour-
2nd Sun of Jul ful local costumes worn by the women.
This procession takes place off the coast of
Villasimius, where a statue of the Virgin Mary lies ESTATE MEDIOEVALE IGLESIENTE
on the seabed in honour of shipwrecked sailors. Mid-Aug
Since the mid-1990s Iglesias has hosted a popu-
ISOLA TAVOLARA CINEMA FESTIVAL lar medieval summer, the high point of which is
Mid-late Jul the Corteo Storico Medioevale (Historic Medieval
Outdoor screenings are staged against an atmos- Parade), a grand costumed affair.
pheric backdrop of bare rocky peaks on the Isola
Tavolara. TIME IN JAZZ Mid-Aug
A big music fest with jazz jams, dance happen-
NARCAO BLUES FESTIVAL Last week of Jul ings, dawn concerts and wine tastings. Centre
The otherwise unexceptional town of Narcao hosts of operations is Berchidda, but concerts are
Sardinias top blues festival, attracting big-name also staged at Olbia, Tempio Pausania, Oschiri
international artists and passionate crowds. and Ozieri.

AUGUST FESTA DEL REDENTORE 2nd-last or

ESTATE MUSICALE INTERNAZIONALE DI last Sun of Aug
Sardinias grandest costumed parade is accompa-
ALGHERO Jul & Aug
nied by horsemen and dancers. A torch-lit proces-
Algheros medieval centre comes alive with the
sion winds through Nuoro on 28 August and an
sound of classical music as concerts are staged
early-morning pilgrimage to the statue of Christ
across town.
the Redeemer on Monte Ortobene takes place
the following day.
FESTA DI SANTA MARIA DEL MARE
1st Sun of Aug
Bosas fishermen pay homage to the Virgin Mary with SEPTEMBER
a river parade of boats bearing her image. Town cele- FESTA DI SAN SALVATORE 1st Sun of Sep
brations continue for four days. Several hundred young fellows clothed in white
set off from Cabras on the Corsa degli Scalzi
MATRIMONIO MAUREDDINO 1st Sun of Aug (Barefoot Race), an 8km run to the hamlet and
Santadis costumed townsfolk reenact a Moorish sanctuary of San Salvatore.
wedding in the central piazza. The grinning bride
and groom are carried in on a traditional carriage FESTA DI NOSTRA SIGNORA DI REGNOS
drawn by a hefty bull. ALTOS Mid-Sep
The people of the old town of Bosa decorate their
I CANDELIERI 14 Aug streets with huge palm fronds, flowers and altarit-
Sassaris great annual festival. The traditional high tos (votive altars) in honour of the Virgin Mary.
point is the faradda, when the citys nine trade
guilds, along with drummers and pipers, parade DECEMBER
giant timber candles through the streets. NATALE Christmas
In the run up to Christmas processions and reli-
FESTA DELLASSUNTA 15 Aug gious events are held. Many churches set up elab-
Held in Orgosolo, this is one of the most important orate cribs or nativity scenes, known as presepi.
festivals in the Barbagia. The event is marked by The day itself is a quiet family affair.
 19

Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTES
SEVEN ROYAL CITIES Two Weeks / Cagliari to Castelsardo
Kick off in Cagliari (p55), Sardinias down-to-earth capital. Take a couple of
days to explore the labyrinthine Il Castello (p57) and the jumble of the Marina
district (p62). You must visit the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (p59), with its
wonderful bronze figurines, while kids will enjoy Poetto Beach (p64).
Travel west to Iglesias (p78), the heart of Sardinias mining country. Take
in the enormous Grotta di San Giovanni (p82) on the way. Dawdle along the
beautiful Costa Verde (p84) and marvel at the dunes of the Spiaggia della Piscinas
(p86) before arriving in Oristano (p103). Nearby are the Phoenician ruins of
Tharros (p110).
Head inland to see the nuraghic complex of Santa Cristina (p114) and the
Nuraghe Losa (p115). Detour to Santu Lussurgiu (p113), where you can eat well,
before arriving in medieval Bosa (p117). Beyond is salty Alghero (p148), with
its distinct Catalan flavour. Tackle the cliff-side steps of Capo Caccia (p161),
which descend to the enormous sea cave of the Grotta di Nettuno (p161).
Continue on to Sardinias second city, Sassari (p123). Check out the Duomo
di San Nicola (p127) and the archaeological museum, Museo Nazionale Sanna
(p126). Finally, hit Sardinias north coast at scenic Castelsardo (p135), perched
on a rocky bluff above the sea.
This 285km itiner-
ary will take you
through Sardinias
seven royal cities,
Castelsardo its most famous
archaeological mu-
Capo
Sassari seums and along
Caccia
Grotta di
Alghero Mare some lovely coast-
Nettuno Tirreno
line. Two weeks is
Bosa enough to cover
this route, but
Nuraghe
Santu
Lussurgiu
Losa with an extra week
Santa
Cristina you could really
Tharros Oristano savour the Costa
Verde beaches and
Costa
Verde explore the area
Spiaggia around Oristano.
della Piscinas
Grotta di Trains and buses
San Giovanni
serve all these
Iglesias
CAGLIARI towns.
Poetto

MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
 20 ITINERARIES Classic Routes lonelyplanet.com

PAST MEETS PRESENT One to Two Weeks / Alghero to the Costa Smeralda
Fancy a swim in Caribbean-blue seas or a walk in an ancient cork for-
est? Whether you want to mingle with celebs or meditate in Sardinias
Romanesque churches, the north of the island is a smorgasbord
of delights.
Start gently in picturesque Alghero (p148) with its cobbled lanes and honey-
coloured walls. Day trip to the dramatic cliffs of Capo Caccia (p161) and dine
in some of the islands most stylish restaurants (p154).
Meander north to isolated Stintino (p146) to laze on one of the islands
best beaches, Spiaggia della Pelosa (p147), or visit the strange Parco Nazionale
dellAsinara (p147). Then duck inland to gritty Sassari (p123) for its city at-
mosphere and excellent dining. Tour the Pisan Romanesque churches of the
tranquil Logudoro valley Basilica della Santissima Trinita di Saccargia (p132),
Chiesa di San Michele e SantAntonio di Salvenero (p132), Chiesa di Santa Maria del
Regno (p132), Chiesa di SantAntioco di Bisarcio (p132) and the Chiesa di Nostra
Signora di Castro (p132) on the shores of Lago di Coghinas.
Jump on to the SS127 and head northeast to Tempio Pausania (p185), deep
in verdant cork forests. Shop in Aggius (p188), which produces nearly 80%
of Sardinias carpets and rugs, explore the weird landscape of the Valle della
Luna (p188) and drive to the peak of Monte Limbara (p187)
To the northeast the country is rich with prehistoric sites, especially around
Arzachena (p174), beyond which the bright lights of Porto Cervo (p171) beckon.
Armed with a fistful of dollars, enjoy the high life along the Costa Smeralda
before heading on to island-hop around the Parco Nazionale dellArcipelago di
La Maddalena (p178).

A week is enough
to cover this 265km
itinerary, but if you Parco Nazionale
want to kick back dell'Arcipelago
della Maddalena
on the beaches and Porto Cervo
explore the woody Parco Nazionale
dell'Asinara Costa
Smeralda
slopes around Arzachena
Valle della
Tempio Pausania Spiaggia Luna
della Pelosa
you could easily Stintino Aggius
Chiesa di Tempio
fill a fortnight. Its Nostra Pausania Monte
Signora
Limbara Mare
preferable to have Basilica della di Castro
(1359m) Tirreno
Santissima
your own wheels, Trinit di
Saccargia
Chiesa di
Sant'Antioco
Sassari di Bisarcio
although you can
get to the main Capo Chiesa di
Caccia San Michele Chiesa
towns on public Alghero e Sant'Antonio di Santa
Maria
di Salvnero
transport. del Regno
lonelyplanet.com ITINERARIES Classic Routes 21

SARDINIAS GRANITE CORE Two Weeks / Nuoro to Tortoli

Encompassing some of Sardinias most spectacular scenery, this route takes
you through the Parco Nazionale del Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu, the
islands uncompromising granite heartland.
Start in Nuoro (p191), capital of the Barbagia hill country and birthplace
of the islands most celebrated writer, Grazia Deledda. Check out the Museo
Deleddiano (p193) and the Museo della Vita e delle Tradizioni Sarde (p191), before
hitting the road for Oliena (p198), famous for its red wine.
Some 20km to the east, the bustling town of Dorgali (p209) makes an
excellent base for exploring the surrounding wilderness. From here you
can visit the Grotta di Ispinigoli (p210), home to the worlds second-tallest
stalagmite, and the nuraghic village of Serra Orrios (p210).
From Dorgali, its a roller-coaster ride down to Cala Gonone (p211), a
popular resort on the Golfo di Orosei (p207). This is Sardinias most dramatic
coastline, harbouring some superb beaches, such as Cala Luna (p213) and the
sublime Cala Mariolu (p213), as well as the purple sea cave of Grotta del Bue
Marino (p213). To get to these places youll need to jump on a boat.
Continuing south, the SS125 rises through a spectacular granite land-
scape to the Genna e Silana pass. In the wilds to the west of the road you
can trek to the nuraghic village of Tiscali (p211), and the Gola Su Gorruppu
(p210), a vast rock chasm dubbed the Grand Canyon of Europe.
Back on the main road, youll need to pass through the nondescript town
of Baunei to reach the Altopiano del Golgo (p217), a weird highland plateau. A
couple of restaurants make it a memorable place to lunch.
At the end of the road is Tortoli (p214), a resort town with a brassy atmos-
phere that will bring you back to earth with a bump.

On this 180km
trip youll discover
hidden gorges,
prehistoric vil-
lages, a stunning
Mare
Tirreno stretch of pristine
coastline and
Serra Orrios Grotta di
Ispinigoli
beautiful, secluded
beaches. Two
Nuoro
Dorgali weeks is enough to
Oliena Cala Gonone cover it, as long as
Tiscali
Grotta del
Bue Marino
you have your own
Cala
Luna
transport.
Gola Su
Gorruppu Cala
Mariolu

Altopiano
del Golgo

Tortoli Golfo di
Orosei
22 I T I N E R A R I E S Ta i l o re d T r i p s lonelyplanet.com

TAILORED TRIPS
THRILLS & SPILLS
Sardinias 1849km coastline and untamed interior provide superb outdoor
opportunities, ranging from hard-core trekking and mountain biking to
climbing, diving, caving and windsurfing.
Windsurfers are spoilt for choice but the top spot is Porto Pollo (p178), where
winds are funnelled through the Bocche di Bonifacio, the strait that divides
Sardinia from Corsica. Here you can also try kitesurfing, sailing and diving.
Other hot spots include Capo del Falcone (p147) and the Sinis Peninsula (p111).
Divers will love Sardinias waters. You can trawl
shipwrecks in the Golfo di Cagliari (p65); dive off
Porto
Parco Nazionale
dell'Arcipelago
the coast of Alghero (p148) and explore the Grotta
Capo
del Falcone Pollo di La Maddalena di Nettuno, the Mediterraneans largest sea cave;
visit an underwater mountain on the Capo Carbonaraz
Alghero (p73) and Roman ruins at Pula (p96).
Supramonte
Cala Gonone
On terra firma, the choices are endless. Theres
Bosa
Golfo di superb trekking in the Supramonte (p198), where
Mandra
Edera
Orosei grottoes provide endless fun for cavers, and the
Sinis Peninsula magnificent Golfo di Orosei (p207), whose 45km
Horse Ulassai
Country selvaggio blu is reckoned to be the toughest trek
Resort
in Italy. The sheer rock faces around Ulassai (p217)
and Cala Gonone (p211) are a mecca for climbers.
Villasimius Cyclists are well catered to, although the largely
Pula Golfo
di Cagliari
mountainous terrain sets some tough challenges.
One of the more accessible routes is the scenic
coastal run from Bosa (p117) up to Alghero.
Horse riding is also popular. The biggest school is the Horse Country Resort
(p109), near Arborea, where you can arrange treks along the Piscinas dunes.
Another good riding school is Mandra Edera (p116), near Abbasanta.

THE SARDINIAN TABLE

Sardinian cuisine is a weird and wonderful experience. If you arrive in Cagliari
(p55) or Alghero (p148) youll enjoy lots of seafood, in particular red and grey
mullet, rock lobster, sardines and Spanish-inspired paella. Other seafood
hot spots include Carloforte (p89) for its tuna- and saffron-flavoured casca
(couscous); Cabras (p109) for mullet, bottarga (mullet roe) and smoked eel;
and Olbia (p164) for stuffed squid and smoked cuttlefish, along with a range
of Gallurese dishes such as suppa cuata (cheese
and bread broth). Spanish and Genoese accents
are to be found in Sassari (p123), where you can
Olbia sample panadas (pies filled with meat and game)
Sassari and fain (a pizzalike snack), but Sardinias most
Alghero ancient culinary roots are in the mountains of
Oliena Barbagia. In villages such as Orgosolo (p200) you
Bosa
can buy world-class pecorino, and in towns like
Seneghe Orgosolo Oliena (p198) youll find fragrant honey. Other
Cabras specialist products are the velvety bue rosso beef,
peppery olive oil produced around Seneghe
(p112) and the sweet Malvasia wine of Bosa
Cagliari (p117). Round it all off with a selection of honey-
Carloforte drenched treats or almond-flavoured biscuits,
best sampled in Durke (p71) in Cagliari.
 Lonely Planet Publications
23

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