Cider Making Made Easy
Cider Making Made Easy
Cider Making Made Easy
All the items below come in our Complete Cider Ingredients pack (minimum quantity this will do is 200 litres).
Before you start it’s a good idea to try and secure a good mix of different apples.
For the ripest apples (which will have the best flavour and the largest amount of juice) wait until they fall from the trees,
then (if you are not ready to use them immediately) they should be spread out on either a plastic sheet or better still a
sack cloth and then cover them either with again a sack cloth or perhaps a chunk of carpet. In this pile they will continue
to ripen smelling great until you are ready to do your pressing. If you are going to leave it any length of time then I would
suggest that you turn the apples regularly and removing any brown or rotten ones (or at least storing them separately).
When crushing, be careful not to over do it. The finished apples should have some substance to them, and liquid juice
should not be present. If it is you have pulped them too much.
Turn the press down onto the fruit until you feel real tension. As soon as you do, don’t keep turning but leave this in
position for a few minutes. You will see the juice will start to run. When the juice stops then tighten again and leave.
The juice that comes out should have one crushed campden tablet per 4.5 litres collected, placed at the bottom of the
container before or as the juice starts to run. This will prevent oxidisation (browning of the juice) and bacterial spoilage.
Remember you must let the press do the work - it’s a lot easier!
As mentioned earlier the best way is to us a pH meter. You are looking for a pH reading in the region of 3.6 to 4.2 pH.
If the reading is above 4.2 pH then you need to add one level teaspoon per 5 litres (1 gallon) of Malic Acid (this is the
natural acid that is in apples). Add to the juice mixing well, leave for at least 15 minutes for this to work into the juice
and then retest with pH meter. Repeat until the desired level is reached.
If the reading is below 3.6 pH then you need to add one level teaspoon per 5 litres (1 gallon) of Precipitated Chalk. Add
to the juice mixing well, leave for at least 15 minutes for this to work into the juice and then retest with the pH meter.
Repeat until the desired level is reached.
Tannin is the taste we associate when we drink a strong tea. We want it present but we don’t want it to be an over power-
ing presence. Add approximately half a level teaspoon per 5 litres (1 gallon) to increase this taste.
Pectolase Powder
If Pectolase is added at the start it will improve the taste in the cider as they help to bring out flavours and without this
addition you won’t have clear cider. Add one teaspoon per 5 litres (1 gallon).
Alcohol Levels
The first thing we need to do before the start of fermentation is to take a hydrometer reading of the juice. To do this,
place the hydrometer in the juice and we will see a reading where the hydrometer is level with the liquid. We can then
use this reading to work out how much alcohol will be present after fermentation. See the table below for reference.
To increase the start gravity add caster sugar (or white granulated sugar) and dissolve well. For cider we are looking ide-
ally for start gravity in the region of 1040 to 1045. Any more alcohol than this will spoil the balance. Do not get carried
away trying to make it to strong. To reduce the SG add water.
Fermentation
Start the fermentation as soon as possible but no longer than 24 hours after pressing the juice. Use food grade plastic
buckets, fermenters or glass jars. They must be clean and sterile.
Add the apple yeast and 2 grams per 5 litres (1 gallon) of Cider Nutrient to the fermenter and be sure to use a good qual-
ity cider/apple yeast like we sell. Don’t get carried away by the idea of natural yeast & bread yeast. This does not produce
good cider.
Leave to ferment at a temperature between 20-27°C for about 5 to 14 days or until your hydrometer is showing the fer-
mentation has finished. A constant cool temperature is much better than one that fluctuates. The fermentation time will
depend on the room temperature and the initial starting gravity. 5 to 14 days is just a guide. The slower the fermentation
the better the cider will taste. It is really important not to exceed 27°C.
The cider should then be degassed (stirred vigorously to remove the carbon dioxide given off during fermentation). We
would then suggest adding Kwik Clear (two part wine finings which contain Gelatine and Kieselsol) to clear the cider.
Once clear, siphon off the sediment, and leave in glass containers. Make sure the containers are full and have no air space
at the top which can cause infection. Taste it and if it’s young and a bit sharp then leave it to mature. Ideally you should
fit a safety stopper to the container to allow for any breathing. After one month we suggest you have a taste. If the cider
is maturing well then leave (if it’s thrown sediment, which is likely you might want to rack the sediment into a clean
sterilised container and top up with cold water). At this stage it might be a good idea to sweeten the cider which is most
likely, you should use our Acesulphame K sweetener (as these are non fermentable sweeteners). Alternatively you can use
granulated sugar or purchase Sucralose from a supermarket (which is an artificial non fermentable sweetener but it must
be Sucralose).
Some people like to keep the cider as natural as possible so don’t like to add Stabiliser, Campdens and finings but from
our experiences this will help protect the cider from oxidising and prevent any refermenting. It will also allow you to add
sugar to sweeten. If you don’t want to add the Stabiliser, Campden, and finings then should you wish to sweeten the cider
which is most likely, then we would suggest you should use our Acesulphame K sweetener (as these are non fermentable
sweeteners). Alternatively you can purchase Sucralose from a supermarket (which is an artificial non fermentable sweet-
ener but it must be Sucralose).
Once you are happy with the taste you may Bottle/Barrel your cider. For fully carbonated Cider (like a Magners or
Strongbow) you will only achieve this by bottling. If you are looking for a slightly sparkling Cider (which would be like a
Real Ale and my preferred option) then we would suggest Barreling the Cider.
Bottling
If this is a short term (say you are keeping this 4-6 weeks) then clear PET plastic bottles (the type lemonade, coke etc
comes in) are fine. If it’s more than this then use green or brown PET bottles, glass beer bottles or grolsch style bottles.
This is essential as the green/brown lining prevents the transmission of UV light which will ruin your cider over time.
Transfer the cider into the bottles and add one rounded teaspoon of s ugar per litre for a slight sparkle and two rounded
teaspoons per litre for a more heavily carbonated drink. Seal the bottles and transfer to a warm place for 2 to 3 days (this
will give you a secondary fermentation which is essential to condition the Cider and provide the necessary carbonation
in your bottles) and then move to a cool place for storage and to let the clearing take place. If the cider has been stabi-
lised or preserved then this will prevent the option of a secondary fermentation.
Transfer the cider into the Barrel and add 125 g (5oz) of sugar dissolved in a little hot water and give the barrel a shake.
Seal the barrel and transfer to a warm place for 2 to 3 days (this will give you a secondary fermentation which is essential
to condition the Cider and provide the necessary carbonation in your bottles ) and then move to a cool place for storage.
If the cider has been stabilised or preserved then this will prevent the option of a secondary fermentation.
Nearly all commercial ciders are fermented using additional sugar which gives it a sweet taste when drunk. The chances
are you cider will be very dry (and can seem undrinkable) unless you add sweeteners we recommend. This is quite natu-
ral. When you open the bottles you will need to poor the cider carefully so as not to disturb the sediment which will be
thrown.
Perry
The Pears should be dealt with in very much the same way as the apples. They do ripen earlier and once they have they
have no keeping qualities.
They are not great for blending different types of fermentation together so it’s important to get the balance (acidity, tan-
nin and sweetness) right at the start of the fermentation.
Vintage Cider
You will need some special apples for this purpose. Only certain types of apples will produce “Vintage Cider” like Ashton
Brown Jersey, Brown Fair Maiden of Devon, Broxwood Fox Whelp, Dabinett, Harry Masters Jersey, Kingston Black,
Major, Medaille Dor, Sercombes Natural, Somerset red Streak, Stoke Red, Sweet Alford, Sweet Coppin, Yarlington Mill to
name but a few. The process will be just the same as described above.
Acidity Level: We would recommend the acidity need to be 3.3 to 3.5 pH. We would also suggest for wine that you
should use Tartaric Acid as this will give the best results. Don’t add Precipitated Chalk.
Fermentation: Add 4 grams of our Apple Nutrient to 5 litres (1 gallon). The fermentation will take more nearer 14 days
but will depend on temperature.
Alcohol levels need to be much higher. We would recommend that you have a start gravity of 1080 which will produce a
wine of about 11.5% ABV.
We don’t believe that the apple wine should be sparkling so don’t pursue this option.