A Beginner's GUIDE To Wine Making
A Beginner's GUIDE To Wine Making
A Beginner's GUIDE To Wine Making
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Choose if you want to make wine from juice that you would buy, or if you are going to use your own grapes or
fruit.
It will be easier to make wine form juice that you would purchase from a winery or other reputable juice
producers.
DO NOT make wine from the Welch's Grape concentrate that you buy in stores.
Making wine from grapes or other fruit will be much harder and take longer, you will also need more equipment
to do so.
Once you decide which you will do, and the recipe you wish to follow, you are ready to buy the materials that
you will need.
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Put the juice into a clean carboy, add .5 grams per gallon of Potassium Metabisulfite.
Check your sugar level with the hydrometer. You should be somewhere around 21 Brix or Balling. If not, add
sugar to the wine until your hydrometer reads 21 Brix.
If you are going to change the acid of a wine, now is the time to do this. Adding either Potassium Bicarbonate or
Calcium Carbonate is used tp drop acid in wine. Where as Acid Blend or Citric Acid is added to raise acid in
your wine. (If you buy juice, most of this should already be adjusted for you so this stem may be unneccessary)
Add Pectic Enzyme to juice according to package for amounts.
Add Yeast Nutrient to juice in reccomended amount.
Take the Yeast and get water (about 1/2 a cup per 5 gallon carboy) at about 100 degrees Farenhiet, mix the
Yeast into the water along with 1/2 the package of Yeast Starter. Let stand for about 30 minutes to an hour then
add to your juice. Put the airlock on carboy and fill the airlock 1/2 way with water.
If the airlock does not bubble in 2 days or so, mix the juice up, this will help the fermentation process start.
Once the airlock starts to bubble, this means that fermentation has started, monitor it very carfully with your
hydrometer to show progress.
If any odd smells occur, like rotten eggs, agitate the wine in order to give some oxigen to the Yeast, and add a
little more DAP (Yeast Nutrient).
When wine reaches between 8 and 13 Brix (Balling) add recommended dose of Fermaid or Yeast Energizer. It
will foam so be careful!
If your wine becomes very slow at fermentation and your Brix levels are above 0, then agitate it to help the
fermentation along.
Once your wine reaches -1 to 0 Brix, fermantation is about over. So go ahead and add some Potassium
Metabisulfite, about 1/4 teaspoon per 5 gallons.
Your wine should start to settle out at this time. When a good sediment layer has formed, rack the wine off.
Now is the time to clarify your wine. In red wines you can use gelitan, sparkalloid, or small amounts of
Bentonite. In whites, use both Bentonite and PVPP. In blushes, use the same amounts as reds. After adding
recommended doses, add to wine and let stand for a few days, it should clear up even more. Rack the wine as
necessary.
Cold Stabilization - let your wine get to about 30 degrees Farenhiet for about 30 days, crystals will drop out.
Filter after this is done.
Finish your wine...if you are making a dry wine, then all you have to do is make sure that your wine is not
fermenting, your sulfite levels are up, and it is as clear as you want it.
If you are making a sweeter wine...
o You must add Potassium Sorbate, this is a preservative that will keep your wine from refermenting in
the bottle. Add at 1 gram per gallon.
o Make sure that your sulfite levels are up.
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Bottling
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Clean bottles with Potassium Metabisulfite mixed in water, 2 tablespoons per gallon of water.
Clean corks with Meta water (same as above)
Clean anything else that is going to be touching the wine with the Meta water, funnels, etc...
Put wine into bottles, and put a cork in.