Nailfiles Final

A STUDY OF NAIL SALON
WORKERS AND INDUSTRY

IN THE UNITED STATES
1
Executive Summary.................................................................4
Introduction:
The Nail Salon Industry Past and Present...............10
Overview of report........................................................10
Inside the Salon..............................................................11
History and Growth of Manicuring Services.....13
Immigrant Entrepreneurship and Workforce....16
Part 1: Worker Profile............................................................17

Overview of Nail Salon Workers..............................17
Number of Workers......................................................17
Nail Salon Workers by State....................................19
Labor Force Participation and Economic Status 20
Wages.................................................................................22
Race/ Ethnicity, Age, Gender, and Nativity.......23
Educational Attainment and Language..............25
Benefits and Household.............................................26
Current Issues for Nail Salon Workers...............27
Labor Issues....................................................................27
Misclassification.............................................................29
Barriers to Licensing....................................................31
Health and Safety.........................................................32
Part 2: Industry Profile.........................................................37

Nail Salons in the United States............................37
Industry Revenue, Spending, and Payroll........39
Trends in the Industry.................................................41
Nail Salon Chains.........................................................43
Part 3: Industry Oversight and Enforcement........45

Federal and State Regulatory Bodies...................45
Challenges in Enforcing Labor Rights................46
Challenges in Enforcing Health and Safety.....47
Municipal Programs........................................................48
Legislation and Policies................................................49
Nail Salon Organizing.....................................................50
Recommendations.................................................................52
Technical Appendix...............................................................54
Acknowledgements................................................................55
Endnotes......................................................................................56
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
Nail salons in the United States are a booming multi-billion dollar industry. Due to immigrant and refugee
labor and changes in technology, the nail salon industry grew from a high-end, luxury service to an
affordable service available to low- and middle-income clients. Nail salons include their predominantly
Vietnamese, Korean, Chinese, Nepali, Tibetan, and Latinx immigrant and refugee labor force. These
immigrant and refugee communities have not only created economic niches that are unique to the
industry but also developed health, labor, and community organizing initiatives that advocate for quality
and safe jobs. They continue to shape the parameters of beauty service work, but they are also a key
facet of today’s service economy, subject to its market forces and labor issues.
While there have been some studies focusing on health and safety conditions in salons, few
have explored labor conditions. The UCLA Labor Center launched this study in collaboration
with the California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative to gain a deeper understanding of the nail
salon industry through existing literature, policy reports, worker stories and government and
other relevant data sources. This is the first report to look at the industry nationally through a
labor lens. The report focus on three primary areas: workers, industry, and oversight.
Worker Profile
National data sources estimate there are between 126,300 and 212,519 nail salon workers though this is most
likely an undercount. State board data suggests that government sources only account for 33% of certified nail
salon workers in California and 47% in New York. Nonetheless, national data do provide a useful profile of
workers. The following are key data and issues related to nail salon workers:
• Nail salon workers have strong participation in the labor workforce. Most are in the
labor force (92%) and the industry has low unemployment (3%). The majority (72%) work
full-time and year-round (81%).
• Self-employment rates are high for nail salon workers. 30% are self-employed which can
include independent contractors, sole proprietors, or members of a partnerships. This rate is
three times higher than the national average.
• The majority of nail salon workers earn low wages. Nearly 8 in 10 workers earn low
wages, defined as 2/3 of the median full-time wage. This rate is significantly higher than the
national rate of 33% for all workers.
• The industry continues to employ a largely immigrant and female workforce. The industry
is predominantly women (81%) and foreign-born (79%), comprised largely of Vietnamese
workers. Nearly half of those born abroad have low English proficiency.
• Most nail salon workers support family members. A third are heads of households
and almost two-thirds have at least one child.
• The industry faces challenging working conditions. Small sample studies and investigative reporting
have found that wage issues in the industry include low wages, being paid a flat, rather than hourly rate,
minimum wage and overtime violations, and harassment and surveillance.
• Misclassification is a key concern in the sector. The industry has a high rate of self-
employed workers which includes independent contractors. Some workers may be
legitimate independent contractors, but there are concerns that many manicurists are
purposely misclassified to avoid labor laws and protections.
• Nail salon workers are at risk for many different short- and long-term occupational health
conditions. Nail salon workers are exposed to hazardous ingredients and materials present in products
and salons and are likely to experience work-related ergonomic body pain.
Industry Profile
According to the County Business Patterns, there are an estimated 23,745 nail salons in the United States.
Similar to the worker estimates, the number of salons may also be an undercount, as some salons may be
unregistered. The following are some key industry trends in the sector:
• Most salons are small mom-and-pop operations. The industry is dominated by small
salons with 9 out of 10 salons having fewer than 10 employees.
• Nail salons are a growing and vibrant industry. Total revenue for nail salons in 2015
reached $4.4 billion, up 15% from the previous year. Over the next decade, employment in
the industry is expected to grow by 13%.
New developments in cosmetics, fashion, and nail polish technology have set the pace for
trends in the nail salon industry. Nail trends include nail art, gel polish, and dip systems while
salon cosmetics ingredients are moving towards more “natural” products. Also, the nail salon
industry has been trying to attract male-identifying customers.
• Social media and digital technology has also affected salons. Nail art is one
of the top five most tagged items on both Pinterest and Instagram. Also, Yelp
contributes to salons’ customer engagement and management.
• The gig economy creates on-demand, app-based manicure services. These salons allow
customers to order manicures or pedicures through a cell phone app. The manicurist meets
customers where they are, though some workers will only go to workplaces or corporate events.
• New and large chains are entering the market. Nail salons have traditionally been mom-and-
pop operations, but the sector is seeing some large chains enter the market and/or expand.
Industry Oversight and Enforcement

In the United States, the nail salon workplace is governed by federal and state regulatory bodies,
legislation, and other rules; county and local policies and programs; and state and federal court
decisions. The following is an overview of some of key areas of oversight and challenges:
• Various federal and state agencies oversee labor conditions but face challenges in enforcing
labor rights. Challenges include investigations that are complaint-driven rather than investigator-
driven,and are filed against owners whom cannot pay judgments. Additionally, workers and employers
have a lack of understanding of labor laws, misinformation, a mistrust of investigators, and a lack
of employer record keeping.
• There are also continuing challenges in ensuring safe and healthy conditions in nail salons.
Federal agencies can conduct more research on the environmental effects of chemicals found in nail
salon products and push for more legislation, such as those to control toxins that are released into the
air. Training about workplace hazards and safety information is inaccessible and many workers
are not trained in safe chemical handling.
• There are many programs in local jurisdictions, with volunteer or elected staff,
designed to improve work conditions in nail salons. Programs like the Healthy Nail Salon
Recognition Programs (HNSRP) provide a plan to ensure healthy workplaces including safer
nail polishes and products, ventilation, and staff training. Programs may also recognize green
business practices in salons and introduce green solutions and alternatives.
• State legislation and policies have provided improvements in areas such as language rights,
labor protections, health and safety protections, and industry standards. Some examples include
ensuring agencies increase staff, provide materials/forms and licensing in languages other than English
relevant to working populations, provide workers’ rights education for owners and workers, and require
cosmetics manufacturers to report chemicals found in their products that
are known carcinogens or reproductive toxicants to the California Department of Public Health (CDPH).
• Nail salon advocacy over the past decade has helped to improve working conditions and
provide healthier workplaces. Many of the efforts to improve nail salon conditions mentioned
here have resulted from worker-led, community organizing and advocacy. Two examples include
the California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative (Collaborative) and the New York Healthy Nail
Salons Coalition (NYHNSC), and such efforts are bourgeoning across the United States.
Recommendations
Nail salons are a thriving and growing industry shaped by immigrant entrepreneurship and industry
innovation. As the industry expands, we must continue to ensure safe and quality jobs for the workforce.
The following are recommendations for key stakeholders to ensure labor protections and standards as
well as to continue to advance policies and practices that create environmentally safe and healthy salons
for workers, employers and consumers alike.
1.Ensure quality jobs and labor protections for nail salon workers.
• Agencies need to safeguard worker wages and benefits, address issues of
misclassification, mandate safety, health, and workers’ rights training for employers and
address language barriers in materials.
• Policy makers should expand worker protections and policies that improve job quality,
remove barriers to licensing and address gaps in government data.
• Advocates should develop a continuing education program and curriculum that

provides workers with the skills to advance.
• Employers must create pathways for workers to increase their skill sets and
provide opportunities for wage increases.
• Researchers should provide technical guidance on future research efforts.
2.Guarantee enforcement of workplace protection.
• Agencies must support workers’ rights through culturally appropriate worker education, addressing
barriers to filing claims, creating model agreements and educational materials for independent
contractors to use, and funding community partnerships that are better able to build trust with workers
to provide necessary information.
• Advocates must center workers by giving them decision-making power, ensuring that organizing
initiatives represent the needs of workers, creating multi-stakeholder collaborations and learning
best practices from other campaigns, industries, and regions.
• Researchers must conduct further studies to better understand working conditions,

labor issues, enforcement efforts, and other needs of the sector, particularly experiences
not captured in public governmen
 Agencies should support salon businesses by creating programs on how to run financially and
environmentally sustainable and just businesses, educating nail salon consumers on why it is
important to pay a fair price for nail services, creating public campaigns that educate customers about
nail salon fair and healthy working conditions and safer beauty
product alternatives.
• Employers should meet with other high-road employers in the sector to share
best practices and business models.
3.Support high-road businesses and good employers.
4. Assure health and safety of nail salon workers.

• Agencies should expand healthy nail salon practices that are culturally and linguistically
appropriate, raise awareness about safer products and practices, provide health and safety
trainings, conduct outreach to workers, run health and safety awareness campaigns,
provide informational materials to reduce worker exposure, and use worker health outcomes
as indicators of safety, instead of possibly outdated exposure limits.
• Policy makers should address the impact of harmful products by allocating and
requiring cosmetic manufacturers and distributors to conduct further studies, requiring
proper labels on products that may be hazardous and making products safe by ending
the use of harmful ingredients. They should also provide access to healthcare for
workers who are particularly vulnerable to health issues in the industry.
• Advocates should continue to engage workers on health and safety

issues and best practices through participatory and peer-to-peer programs.
• Employers should participate in healthy nail salon programs that include

guidelines on and support in the creation of a healthier workplace.
• Researchers should continue to conduct and expand research on the cumulative

effects of chemicals and exposures on worker health and continue to conduct and
expand research on green chemistry to reduce the use of hazardous substances in
products and ultimately improve the health and safety of consumers and workers.
INTRODUCTION:
THE NAIL SALON INDUSTRY
PAST AND PRESENT
Nail salons in the United States are a booming multi-billion dollar industry that has continued to grow
even in the face of the most recent recession. Over the next decade, employment in the industry is
expected to grow by 13%, almost double the rate of other US occupations. 1 Nail salons, including their
predominantly Vietnamese, Korean, Chinese, Nepali, Tibetan, and Latinx immigrant labor force, have
been in US shopping plazas and strip mall for several decades. Salons have been the site of immigrant
entrepreneurship and technology innovation, bringing together mostly women customers and workers
who otherwise would not cross social boundaries and paths. Now, with the advent of new technology
and trends, nail salons continue to shape the parameters of beauty service work, but they are also a key
facet of today’s service economy, subject to its market forces and labor issues.
Overview of report
In May 2015, The New York Times published an exposé on the nail salon industry, raising concerns about
wage theft, worker exploitation, health and safety, and overall labor violations in nail salons. While there
have been some studies focusing on health and safety conditions in salons, few have explored labor
conditions. The UCLA Labor Center launched this study in collaboration with the California Healthy Nail
Salon Collaborative to gain a deeper understanding of the nail salon industry through a labor lens. This
report is based on existing literature, policy reports, worker stories and analysis of publicly available data
and presents an overview of nail salons across three areas: workers, industry, and oversight.
This opening section begins with the historical and current context of the nail salon industry. Part 1
presents a demographic profile of workers and labor-related issues. Part 2 provides an overview of
nail salon establishments, sector trends, and dynamics. Part 3 explores existing regulations,
legislative solutions, and best practices in the industry. The report concludes with a series of
recommendations to ensure safe and dignified working conditions in salons. We note areas in the
report where the existing literature and data sets do not fully capture the experience of salon
workers; we recognize the need for further, large-scale studies on the sector.
Source: California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative
Inside the Salon

The nail salon is commonly seen as a place where women go to relax and get pampered. A typical
visit to a nail salon includes passing through a waiting area and meeting a manicurist who will take
you to a foot bath or a personal station. The manicure or pedicure involves a multistep and intimate
process that can include removing old nail polish, trimming and cutting nails, trimming cuticles,
applying lotion, massaging hands and arms, and applying base coats, nail polish, and top coats.
Today, however, both luxury salons and smaller mom-and-pop salons offer more than just
manicures and pedicures. Many nail salons also provide artificial nails, nail extensions, wraps,
acrylics, gels, dip manicures, nail art and rhinestones, foot spa soaks, and leg massages. To
reach a broader base of customers, some salons have expanded outside of their specialty to
offer additional beauty and spa services, from waxing and facials to body massages.
Though salon operations may appear inexpensive, even basic equipment beyond nail polishes and
chemicals can add up to $1,000 for tools annually, and $5,000 for one salon station with a manicure
table and a pedicure spa. The materials needed for a 30-minute manicure and pedicure include
anything from nail clippers, polish, and polish remover, to a manicure bowl, cuticle nipper, cuticle
pusher, cuticle softener, callus remover, base coats/primers, acrylic liquids, gel mix, nail glue, foot
files, toe separators, foam slippers, nail files, UV drying machines, and spa disinfectants. Larger
salon equipment includes manicure tables, client chairs, ventilation equipment, and pedicure thrones.
The design and scale of the equipment all impact their longevity as well as the feel of the salon.
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History and Growth of Manicuring Services
The nail salon industry has dramatically changed since the start of the 20th century, including staff and clientele. In the
early 1900s, manicures and pedicures were a leisure and luxury service only available at full-service salons that catered
to wealthy women. Manicurists were characterized as unintelligent gossips and gold diggers or were hypersexualized. In
the 1920s and ’30s, nail polish became widely available
for purchase at five-and-dime stores, so more middle- and working-class women could paint their
own nails at home. Salon service costs, however, continued to be exclusive. By the 1950s and ’60s,
cosmetics manufacturers were developing new colors for each season. Even as the market for nail
polish and painted nails grew, their social significance remained complex. A manicured hand either
marked well-groomed feminine glamour or questionable moral standards, where subdued colors
were considered more socially acceptable. 2
Since the 1970s, due to shifting forces in both technology and migration, salon tools and labor have become less
expensive. With the development of an electric file in 1974 and the acrylic nail in 1979, manicures became more
affordable and less time-consuming.3 At the same time, the population of Asian immigrant and refugee women in
the United States grew due to the global forces of colonialism, war, and changing immigration policy. Some credit
the actress Tippi Hedren with the entry of Vietnamese refugee women into California’s nail salon industry. In 1975,
she helped train 20 women at Weimar
Hope Village in Sacramento to do manicures and then helped connect the women to jobs at
salons across Southern California.4
With new tools available in the industry and training from beauty schools as well as friends and family, Asian
immigrants and refugees became nail salon workers and business owners in the 1980s. They helped
transform the nail salon into a discount, walk-in business available to a middle- and low-income clientele. 5 For
example, Mantrap, one of the first jointly owned Vietnamese and black nail salons, became a chain in the
1980s with shops in black communities across Southern California. 6 Some scholars credit Vietnamese
manicurists with democratizing nail salon services.7 Other scholars describe the shift to faster, assembly-line
services at stand-alone shops as the “McNailing” of manicures. Different from the McDonald’s’ chain, our
research shows that the nail sector includes only a few large chains with a majority of mom-and-pop salons. 8
With the increase in affordable salons and the influx of Asian immigrants and refugees, the stereotype of
the manicurist and of the nail salon changed as well. Nail salon employees were racialized and gendered
as quiet Asian women with small nimble hands. And the salons they work at are stereotyped as sweatshops,
sometimes even represented as dirty or cheap. 9 While nail salon work is low-wage, these kind of negative
stereotypes devalue the immigrant women of color working in the industry and portray their salons as
lesser than other seemingly luxury or high-end salons.10
Infographic: Brief History of the Nail Salon Industry in the United States 1920s–2000s
1980s
Data
Manicure work became recognized as a profession in
1980 in the US Bureau of Labor Statistics.18
1920s–1960s Industry Growth
The Asian immigrant and refugee population changed
the nail salon workforce, including the increase in
Cost Vietnamese refugee migration during the 1980s and
Manicures were expensive 1990s. Korean women also pioneered an ethnic niche in
leisure services for wealthy New York’s nail salon industry, with over 2,000 (or 70%)
clientele. Korean-owned nail salons in the metropolitan area.19
Perceptions Training
The manicurist was seen as a The first training center to open in California’s Little
gossipmonger, a gold digger, Saigon in 1987, the Advance Beauty College held classes
or as hypersexualized.14 in Vietnamese and became a training hub for Southern
California’s salons.20
1970s
Technology and Cost
In the early 1970s, professional manicures
and pedicures typically cost $50
(equivalent to $320 in 2018 dollars).15 In
the mid-1970s, technology made the
service faster and more affordable for a
middle and working-class clientele.16
Training
Tippi Hedren, the “godmother of the nail
industry,” trains Vietnamese refugee
women to do manicures and places them
in salons across Southern California.17
Source: Orange County Register
2010s
1990s Cost
A basic manicure and a pedicure now can cost as
Perceptions little as $20.25 However, with the development of
Manicurists are now stereotyped as quiet Asian longer-lasting gel manicures, upper-end manicures
women working in sweatshops, creating a alone now cost at least $30.
racialized hierarchy of cheap salons counterposed
to higher-end salons.21
Technology
Spa whirlpool pedicure was introduced in Vietnamese
salons, also known as the pedicure throne.22
Licensing
State licensing exams were translated into Vietnamese
in some metropolitan areas in 1996.23
2000s
Industry Growth
The industry continues to experience massive
growth; the number of nail salons doubled
between 2006 and 2016.24
Photo by Rune Enstad on Unsplash
Immigrant Entrepreneurship and Workforce

Today, nail salons are primarily owned and staffed by immigrants and refugees. Existing scholarship
predominately captures the connection between Vietnamese refugee migration and the nail salon industry,
especially in California, while some scholarship focuses on Korean nail salon owners and workers in New
York. Less discussed in the literature is the role of Nepali, Tibetan, Latinx, and Chinese immigrant
manicurists and communities in the sector. These immigrant and refugee communities have not only created
ethnic entrepreneurship and economic niches that are unique to the industry but also developed health,
labor, and community organizing initiatives that advocate for quality and safe jobs.
Vietnamese Americans tend to dominate the nail salon industry in California, making up almost
three-quarters of licensed manicurists.26 After the 1975 fall of Saigon and the end of the US military
intervention in Vietnam, refugees fled the region in three waves. 27 The first to flee included military
and government employees—middle-class, urban residents who were more educated and more
proficient in English than those who left later.28 Vietnamese refugees in the second wave came
from rural areas, were comparably less educated, and did not speak English or were less proficient
in English. This group mostly settled in California and made a large impact on the nail salon
industry. The third wave of refugees were political prisoners, ethnic Chinese, Vietnamese, and
others.29 To this day, new Vietnamese immigrants continue to enter the nail salon workforce.
Immigrants and refugees find work in the nail salon industry through established social networks that
allow workers to navigate difficult workplace concerns specific to the service industry. For example,
those who otherwise face barriers to getting hired, such as staff with limited English proficiency,
unrecognized or unvalued professional credentials from their origin countries, or undocumented
immigrant status, can find jobs in the nail salon industry through their social networks. Furthermore,
those with relatively little start-up capital can learn how to establish a nail salon business through those
networks. Those same social networks in ethnic niches, however, also make health, safety, and labor
organizing difficult, as workers may be embarrassed to speak up about poor working conditions and/or
may fear retaliation and being blacklisted across the network of salons. 30
PART 1: WORKER PROFILE
Overview of Nail Salon Workers
This section explores nail salon workforce characteristics using census and other
government data sources. We begin with estimating the number of workers in the
sector, followed by data on economic and demographics characteristics. See
Technical Appendix for detailed information on data sources and variables used.
Number of Workers
The focus of this report is workers who provide manicures and pedicures in nail salons. These
workers can provide manicures and pedicures through a state licensing process.
Cosmetologists can also provide manicures and pedicures in nail salons. There are other salon
occupations, such as hair removal, massage, reception, etc., but they are outside of the scope
of this study.
A manicurist can be an employee or independent contractor. Employees are hired directly by

the business and work for wages. Independent contractors act as their own businesses and are
not salon employees. They bring in their own supplies, have their own clients, set their own
hours, etc. We explore some of the issues and dynamics of independent contractors later in this
section.
The Bureau of Labor Statistics estimates that there 126,300 nail salon workers. The US
Census American Community Survey (ACS) has a broader category of personal
appearance workers that includes other occupations along with manicurists; their
estimate is 212,519.
Figure 1: Estimates of Nail Salon Workers in the United States
126,300 212,519
Misc personal Government statistics are most
Manicurists and appearance workers in likely undercounting workers.
pedicurists nail salon industries
Bureau of Labor Statistics
American Community Survey
Source: Bureau of Labor Statistics Occupational Handbook 2017, US Census, American Community Survey 5-year sample 2012–2016
Government statistics are most likely undercounting workers. The number of workers would be higher
if we consider cosmetologists who also perform nail salon services. (In the data, cosmetologists are
grouped with barbers and hairstylists, so we are unable to get a count for this category of workers).
The underestimate could also be due to the nature of the industry that includes small salons,
unregistered businesses, independent contractors, unlicensed workers and undocumented workers. 31
We believe that the actual number of nail salon workers is much higher than both the above estimates. We
obtained license data for New York and California board license data and compared it with
the census. Based on the California state board license data from 2017, there are 103,587 certified
manicurists in California alone, nearly three times the ACS estimate. In New York, the state board
has issued 33,751 licensed nail specialists, close to double the ACS’s count. These numbers
suggest that government data sources are only accounting for 33% of certified nail salon workers in
California and 47% in New York. Even if we assumed that not all licensed manicurists are currently
working, the discrepancy is still significant enough to signal an undercount.
Figure 2: Nail Salon Workers in California and New York
There is a lack of consistent data

about nail salon workers.
SOURCE CA NY
State License Board Data 103,587 33,751

American Community Survey 33,740 15,925
Source: California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology Licenses for Current Manicurist 2017 and
New York State Department of Labor for Nail Specialty 2018, American Community Survey 5-year sample 2012–2016
In any case, the lack of consistent data illustrates the need to improve data
collection processes, ensuring that workers feel safe offering their information and
encouraging businesses to report all their workers.
Nail Salon Workers by State
While the government data sources are likely an underestimate, the data does provide us with useful worker
characteristic information that can give us a snapshot of the industry. For this analysis, we use the American
Community Survey, which provides employment data with demographics.
Based on the ACS, about half of all nail salon workers are in California, Texas, Florida, and New York.
Figure 3: Top 10 States with the Largest Percentage of Nail Salon Workers
Where do nail salon

workers live?
44% of US-based nail

salon workers live in
CA 16% TX 11% FL 9%NY 8% CA, TX, FL, and NY
GA NJ PA NC IL VA
5% 4% 3% 3% 3% 3%
.
Source: American Community Survey 5-year sample 2012–2016
The top counties are in the states with the most nail salon worker such as Los Angeles, Orange and San Diego in
California, Queens and King County in New York, and Harris and Dallas County in Texas. An outlier is Maricopa
County in Arizona that showed high county numbers but low state numbers.
Figure 4: Top 10 Counties with the Largest Percentage of Nail Salon Workers
% of Total Nail
County, State Salon Workers
Los Angeles, CA 4%
Queens County, NY 3%
Orange County, CA 3%
Harris County, TX 3%
What counties do nail Maricopa County, AZ 2%
salon workers live in?
Cook County, IL 2%
Dallas County, TX 1%
San Diego County, CA 1%
Kings County, NY 1%
Broward County, FL 1%
Source: American Community Survey 5-Year Sample 2012–2016

Labor Force Participation and Economic Status
The nail salon sector has high labor force participation and low unemployment. Ninety-two
percent are in the labor force, higher than the national rate of 64%. 32 There are 231,457 nail
salon workers total when including those in the labor force and not in the labor force.
Figure 5: Labor Force Participation of Nail Salon Workers
8%
not in the
Labor Force
labor force
Participation
92%
in the
labor force
Nail salon workers also have a low unemployment rate. Of those in the labor
force, only 3% are unemployed, more than half the rate of 7% for all workers.33
Figure 6: Employment Status of Nail Salon Workers
3%
Unemployed
0 Employment
Status
97%
Employed

Based on those currently employed, more than two-thirds work full-time, and most work
year-round, though there are slight gender differences: women are more likely than men to
work part-time and to work only part of the year rather than year-round.
Figure 7: Full-time and Full-Year Status of Nail Salon Workers
Of all nail salon workers, how many work

full-time? How many work year-round?
FULL-TIME YEAR-ROUND
35 hr+ 47 wk+
68% Female workers 80%
86% Male workers 85%
72% All workers 81%
Almost a third of the workforce are classified as self-employed rather than employees,
three times higher than the national rate of self-employment.34 Self-employed workers
may be independent contractors, a sole proprietor or a member of a business
partnership.
Figure 8: Employee and Self-Employed Status of Nail Salon Workers
Female manicurists Male manicurists All manicurists
29% 35% 30%

Self- Self- Self-
Employed
Employed 71% Employed 65% 70%
Employed Employed Employed

Wages
The nail salon industry, like many service sectors, is primarily characterized by low-wage jobs. We define low-
wage workers as those who earn less than $13.46 an hour, which is two-thirds of the 2016 median wage for
full-time workers in the United States. Our analysis of census data shows that 78% of nail salon employees
(excluding the self-employed) are earning low wages. This percentage is significantly higher than the national
rate of 33% for all industries. These findings are not unexpected; because the price of manicures and
pedicures is so low, those providing the services are bound to earn low wages.
Figure 9: Nail Salon Workers Low-Wage Rate
33% 78%
Low-wage Low-wage
workers in nail salon
the U.S. workers
Source: American Community 5-Year Sample 2012–2016
The hourly median wage is low for nail salon workers. Full-time nail salon workers earn less than half
of workers in other industries. There is little wage difference between full-time and part-time workers,
and earnings even go down as hours increase. This could be for various reasons such as being paid
a flat rate so that the hourly rate goes down as hours increase or being paid under the table. 35
Figure 10: Nail Salon Workers’ Hourly Median Wage
What is the median wage for all workers

in the US versus nail salon workers?
$11.23 $20.18
All US workers
PART-TIME $10.19 $9.06 FULL-TIME
Nail salon workers

Race/Ethnicity, Age, Gender, and Nativity
The following demographics are for nail salon workers currently in the labor force. Women make up the
majority of the workforce, though 19% are men. More than half of workers are between the ages of 25 and
44. Research has begun to explore the impacts of cosmetics chemicals in this age range, particularly with
the potential for reproductive health impacts, with younger nail salon workers reporting a lower health
status than a general population.36 Additionally, a third of workers are between 45-64, with
the repetitive, detailed, and fast-paced work sometimes less suited for older workers.
Because of this, employers may also reflect ageism with a preference for younger
workers.
Asians make up the majority of the workforce, followed by white workers. Less than 10% are Latinx,
Black, or other ethnicity. Immigrant workers dominate the sector. As noted in the Introduction, the
Vietnamese community has played an integral role in expanding the industry. Census data shows that
more than half of the workforce is Vietnamese, though other Asian communities are part of the
workforce, such as Nepali, Chinese, Korean, Indian, Pilipinx, and Khmer workers as well as Mexican
workers.
Figure 11: Nail Salon Worker Characteristics
76% 81% 58%

Asian Female 25-44 Years
Race/
Ethnicity Gender Age
33%
1% 2% 6%
14% 19% 65+ Years
45-64 Years
1%
7%
Other White
Black Latinx Male 16-24 Years
79%
74% Foreign-born
Vietnam
Places of
Foreign Birth
Nativity
2% 21%
Philippines US-born
3%
India 4%
Korea 7%
China

Of those born abroad, median years in the US is 17 years—though men have a longer tenure than women.
Figure 12: Median Years in the US (among Foreign-Born)
What are the median number of years that

foreign-born workers have lived in the US?
Foreign-born Foreign-born All Foreign-born

female workers male workers nail salon workers
16 years 22 years 17 years

In the states with the most salon workers, the Vietnamese community dominates—except for New
York, which has more Chinese and Korean workers. Many of the states include US-born workers,
who are of various race/ethnicities, as well as those from the Philippines, India, and Mexico. These
top five states also have the most Asian nail salon workers in total in the country.
Figure 13: Top 5 Places of Birth in States with the Most Nail Salon Workers
CALIFORNIA
NEW YORK 3% India
1% Korea 13% Vietnam
2% Philippines 15% Korea
4% China 15% US
18% US 37% China
69% Vietnam
GEORGIA
1% China
2% Korea
3% India
14% US
73% Vietnam
2% India
TEXAS 3% Cuba
1% Mexico 3% China
1% China 18% US
2% India 62% Vietnam
16% US
76% Vietnam
FLORIDA

Educational Attainment and Language
The majority (72%) of nail salon workers have a high school education or more.
Nineteen percent have attended some college but not completed a degree, while
6% have an associate’s degree, and 8% have a bachelor’s degree or higher.
Figure 14: Educational Attainment of Nail Salon Workers
Less than high school 28%
High school degree 39%
Some college 19%
Associate’s degree 6%
Bachelor’s degree 8%
Source: American Community Survey 2012–2016 5-Year Sample
Of those not born in the US, almost half of workers have limited English proficiency. Access to multilingual
language resources is a critical issue in the nail salon industry. Workers must have access to health and
safety and know-your-rights materials and to be able to get licenses in languages beyond English.
Figure 15: English Language Proficiency
6%
Do not speak
English
54%
English-
proficient
40%
Do not speak
English well
Source: American Community Survey 2012–2016 5-Year Sample

Benefits and Household
ACS data shows that 71% of nail salon employees have some form of health insurance, a rate lower than
the national rate of 88%.37 Of those with insurance, 42% have health insurance through their employer,
compared to 62% of employer-insured workers nationally. Over a quarter receive coverage through public
programs such as Medicaid and Medicare, higher than the national rate of 19%. 38
Figure 16: Health Insurance Coverage of Nail Salon Workers
29% 71%
No insurance Have insurance
42% 29%
Employer-provided Medicaid, Medicare
insurance or Veterans Affair
health insurance
Source: American Community Survey 2012–2016 5-Year Estimate
Most nail salon workers support family members, and a third are heads of households.
15% of workers receive Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) benefits.
Figure 17: Household Composition and Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) Benefits
15%
SNAP
61% Beneficiary
Has own child in

household
34%
Head of
household
Current Issues for Nail Salon Workers
These sections explore the working conditions faced by nail salon workers,
including labor issues, misclassification, barriers to licensing, and health
and safety issues.
A 2016–2017 survey of 93 Vietnamese nail salon workers in California found various wage violations including
not being paid minimum wage or overtime, being paid late or being asked to work during a break.41
Figure 19: Wage Violation Among Vietnamese Nail Salon Workers in California
89%
not paid
61% overtime
for more
than 8
paid less hours of
than work 24% 23%
minimum
wage
paid late given work

during break
What wage violations do Vietnamese nail

salon workers in California face?
Source: California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative and UCLA-LOSH Survey
In a study on wage theft across New York, Chicago, and Los Angeles, which included surveys
of salon workers, wage theft was pervasive in all three cities.42 Within the broader grouping of
beauty, dry cleaning, and general repair, the survey found that half of workers did not receive
minimum wage, and the majority experienced overtime and meal-break violations.
Figure 20: Wage Violations for Beauty, Dry Cleaning, and General Repair Workers
in New York, Chicago , and Los Angeles
82%
not paid 80%
overtime
did not
50% get meal
breaks
not paid
minimum
wage
What wage violations do beauty, dry cleaning, and

general repair workers in NY, Chicago, and LA face ?
Source: Broken Laws, Unprotected Workers

play a central role in salon workers’ pay. While some states have one minimum wage
for all workers, other states assign a lower minimum wage for tipped workers. Tips
matter for salon workers’ income, as tips can help make up for lower wages. The same
study on Nepali nail salon workers in New York found that nearly all workers received
tips ranging from $50 to $200 per week; those in salons with lower prices earned less.
However, the New York Times article exposed how in some salons, tips were pooled
and not distributed to workers, while other workers had their tips docked. 43 Some of
the challenges around enforcement and addressing these labor issues are discussed
in Part 3.
Misclassification
In the nail salon, a manicurist may be classified as an employee or an independent
contractor. Specifically, employee status is determined by the degree of control the
employer exercises over a worker’s job conditions. Independent contractors are not
protected by laws requiring minimum wage, overtime pay, workers’ compensation, and
other workplace benefits. Contractors are also unable to collectively bargain about their
working conditions and are not protected from discrimination, harassment, or retaliation
under employment laws. Some workers may be legitimate independent contractors, but
there are concerns that many manicurists are purposely misclassified to avoid labor laws
and protections.44
In the California 2016–2017 survey of Vietnamese nail salon workers, 39%

reported that they were independent contractors. 45 Additionally, an
ethnographic study on Northern and Southern California Vietnamese nail
salons instantiates an independent contractor model using the ăn chia (split
profits) payment system. Even though workers are given 60% of the profits
per client and owners take 40% per client, the system is still exploitative
because owners asked the workers to take clients with services that earn
less or are least desirable.46
In focus groups with nail salon owners in California, researchers found that
once they explained the differences between employers and independent
contractors that seven of the eight salon owners realized they were not
classifying their workers correctly.47 The California Division of Labor Standards
Enforcement recently cited a nail salon in California for misclassifying its
workers.48 In 2013, that agency categorized salon workers as employees, but
the California Employment Development Department found them to be
independent contractors.49
This year, the California Supreme Court simplified the criteria that determines if a
worker is an employee or independent contractor. The 2018 ruling says a worker
can only be an independent contractor if they are a) free from control of the hirer,
b) the work is outside the usual course of the hiring business, and c) the worker is
customarily engaged in an independent trade, occupation, or business of the
same nature as the work performed for the hiring business; this is also known as
the ABC test.50 This decision could greatly impact the way the nail salon sector
classifies its workers.51
In addition to
wages, tips
for myself and my future children and to earn money for my family in Vietnam.
I became a nail technician because it was easy to get a license, and it was
difficult for me to understand English at the community college I attended.
Van’s Story Throughout the past few years, I have worked in several salons. I left past
salons for various reasons: the wage was too low because I did not get much
money from tips, employers mistreated workers, and distance from home.
I am a full-time employee and get paid based on the ăn chia system, in

Current Nail which I get 60% of the pay, and my employer gets the remaining 40%. My
Salon Worker pay varies based upon how much my customers tip me, how busy the
Female, age 32 salon is, and the prices of services. Even though I work hard, have a lot
of customers, and my salon has higher nail service prices than other
I salons in the area, I only earn about $1,800 per month. I constantly have
immi to buy my own nail supplies, which can cost up to $1,000 per year.
grate
I know that my ability to earn money is limited by age in the nail salon industry.
d to
The longer you work in the industry, the more your skills decline. Around 40 to 50
the
years old, your eyesight starts deteriorating and your hands become shaky, which
Unite
means that you cannot offer good services. I know people who have developed
d
permanent pimples on their hands from working with nail salon chemicals. My
State
friend became allergic to acetone and started developing extremely itchy rashes.
s at
24 Because of the physical limitations and work-related health issues that develop from
year working in the nail salon industry, some employers place newspaper ads that
s old specifically ask for nail techs under 40 years old. I have seen a lot of worker
to mistreatment that results from age. Employers abuse older workers if they work too
get a slowly. In many salons, older workers are viewed as expendable, while younger skilled
bette workers are favored. I feel like I have to earn additional income now because it will be
r life difficult when nobody hires me as a nail tech when I am older.
Barriers to Licensing
Nail salon staff are required to have a manicurist license to provide services and comply with
state consumer boards. Such licensees need 100 to 600 hours of training at approved
cosmetology schools, and manicurists are required to complete practitioner hours at salons. A
few states also ask for high school or seven to ten years of schooling. In addition, some states
require some level of English proficiency. The lack of accessible languages in the curriculum
training and exam process can be a barrier for some immigrant salon workers, making them
less likely to seek licenses or become manicurists. 52 Further, the number of hours and cost of
the training can be another barrier. In a study of Nepali workers, while 17% of respondents
were licensed by New York State, others did not seek a license because of limited English
proficiency (48%), immigration status (14%), or lack of information about how to get a license
(11%). At the time of the study, the license exam was not given in Nepali. 53 Most of these
workers reported receiving training from family members, with only 18% receiving training at a
school or program.
Advocates in both New York and California have addressed issues of language justice, or the
ability to communicate in a language of comfort, in cosmetology and manicurist licensing.
Since 2010, the California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative’s advocacy has resulted in the
availability of cosmetology exams, renewal processes, notices, and agency complaint forms
in English, Spanish, Vietnamese, and Korean in California.54 Similarly, in 2015, the New York
Healthy Nail Salons Coalition’s advocacy has resulted in most but not all forms available in
English, Spanish, Haitian/ Creole, Italian, Korean, Russian, Nepali, Vietnamese, and Chinese
in New York.55
Catherine’s Story
Previous Nail Salon Worker
Female, age 22
When I was in 10th or 11th grade, I started my first real job at a nail salon. I
worked seven-hour shifts, three to four times a week, for three to four months
while I was in school. It was difficult because of the pressure. You have to be a
perfectionist as a nail salon worker, and customer service is key. People will
be annoyed with you if you’re not perfect at nails. To this day, I’m not quite
sure if it was legal for me to work. I didn’t have a license, so they took 30% to
50% of my pay. If I got a license, they would take less of my pay. I did not
make too much money from the work because it was commission-based. I
understand a lot of people work in the nail salon industry because you can
make good money, but I don’t think being a nail salon worker is best for the
long-term because of the adverse health effects you can get from the job. The
owner of the salon had a lot of joint problems in her hands, and the other older
nail salon workers would talk about the bad effects of the chemicals. Even
though I only worked at the nail salon for a short amount of time, the smells
would bother me.
Health and Safety
Nail salon workers are at risk for many different short- and long-term occupational health
conditions, ranging from respiratory disorders to cancer, that are related to the products they work
with.56 Nail salon workers are exposed to salon and cleaning chemicals through inhalation,
ingestion, and skin absorption, but there have been limited studies on the combined and long-term
health effects of these chemicals.57 Many of the chemicals in cosmetic products, also known as
personal care products, have not been thoroughly assessed for safety, and some chemicals may
not have credible epidemiological findings or exposure limits. 58 Outdated regulatory standards and
lack of government oversight over nail salons and nail salon products contribute to workers’
exposures to dangerous chemicals.59 Few nail salon product manufacturers currently offer safer
alternatives, and for some product categories, safer alternatives may not even exist. 60
Several factors prevent nail salon workers from demanding improved working conditions. Institutional
power inequalities between workers and owners prevent workers from understanding and advocating
for better workplace conditions.61 While nail salon owners and workers tend to maintain close
relationships, owners control work practices and the information disseminated to workers. 62 Fear of
employer retaliation can also prevent workers from reporting hazards. 63
Additionally, the lack of transparency in regulatory agencies’ salon inspections and

subsequent fines have fostered distrust among employees. This may hinder workers’
willingness to open up to agencies about their problems.64
Finally, workers receive limited training about workplace hazards and safe chemical handling. 65 Health
and safety information that is provided is usually in English only and contains highly technical language. 66
Source: Capital & Main

Cathy’s Story
Previous Nail Salon Worker
Female, age 33
My life has been shaped by my family’s work in the nail salon industry. I moved around a lot
as a kid. My parents, ethnic Chinese living in Vietnam, emigrated to the United States in
1979. My parents, aunts and uncles entered the nail industry and worked in family-owned
nail salons in Los Angeles. My parents eventually saved enough money from working to
open and work in several nail salons in downtown Brooklyn in the 1980s and 1990s. As a
kid, I went to work with my parents on weekends and in the summers every day because
we did not have childcare. I worked in the nail salon industry in high school and through
college at my parents’ salons until I was 20 years old.
My mother has developed many health issues, which I believe happened because my
mother did not take care of herself during her years working in the nail salon industry. When
the salon was busy, my mother and other workers would go a whole day without eating or
using the restroom. When my mother worked, nail salons had no ventilation, no level of
oversight. Salon workers used acrylics more in the past, which involved using bonding
acrylic liquid that has been shown to be toxic. Customers would complain about the smell,
but we all became immune to the smell. My mother’s health deteriorated throughout the
years, including blurrier eyes and digestive issues. Both of my parents would always apply
Salonpas and turn on the heating system to warm their tired shoulders. Sometimes I ask
whether all the money we earned was even worth it to treat my mother’s ailments now. It
was all about “work, work, work,” and making money. Now we are facing the aftermath of it.
My family had to move our parents back to Vietnam because of our financial circumstances.
Today, many of my aunts and uncles continue working in the nail salon industry in California.
I see a lot of worker exploitation, which I believe is from the intense competition in the nail
salon industry, specifically with salons working against each other in price setting. I believe
we still need to find solution to these high levels of price competition that ultimately hurts
workers in the end.
A Brief Overview of Health and Safety Issues in Nail Salons
Hazardous ingredients and materials are present in products and salons.

•
“Toxic trio” ingredients (toluene, formaldehyde, and dibutyl phthalate [DBP]) in nail
polish and other hazardous chemicals may cause serious health problems. 67
•
Chemical disinfectants, such as alcohol and bleach can cause skin
disease and increase risk of infection.68
Workers are vulnerable to exposure from multiple routes.

•
Although some environments may not exceed exposure limits for certain
chemicals in the air, this does not mean these environments are healthy.
Chemical exposure may include inhalation, ingestion, and skin absorption.69
•
Many chemicals may not have credible epidemiological findings or exposure limits. 70
Workers are at risk due to chemical exposure.
•
Exposure to chemicals may be associated with allergies, eye, and skin
irritation, eczema, or reproductive problems.71
•
Those working with acrylic nails were more likely to report health problems,
such as nose irritation, allergies, skin irritation, stress, pain, coughing,
nausea, difficulty breathing, asthma, and miscarriages.72
• One survey showed that 10% of nail salon staff worked while they were pregnant,
and 8% of workers know a worker who had reproductive complications, such as
birth defects, miscarriages, stillbirths, and difficulty conceiving.73 In other studies,
workers also reported reproductive effects,74 and some included miscarriages.75
•
Rates of thyroid cancer among cosmetologists and lung cancer among
manicurists were elevated in a California study.76
•
A Canada study has shown that nail salon workers who regularly applied nail polish had ten times
greater risk of contracting lupus, an autoimmune disease, than other categories of workers.77
•
A 2009 study found that workers regularly applying acrylic-nail chemicals
experienced both decreased lung function and increased airway inflammation. 78
Nail salon workers report work-related ergonomic body pain.
• This includes shoulder, wrist, hand, neck, and lower back problems.
• Uncomfortable and static postures may increase muscular

fatigue/strain and ultimately cause these problems.79
Manufacturers need to reformulate their products.

•
Studies of nail polishes claiming to be free of certain toxic ingredients
have shown most of these claims to be false.80
•
It is important to find substitute ingredients for nail products
that are less toxic.81
Workers need personal protective equipment.

•
Appropriately sized personal protective equipment, including nitrile gloves,
help reduce exposure to chemicals.82
•
A survey of Nepali workers found that workers sometimes wore protective
equipment, very few workers wore protective equipment all the time, and most
workers had to purchase their own protective equipment.
Salon ventilation is key to worker protection.

•
Ventilation can come in different forms: ventilation table, open doors or windows, roof fan,
or a central ventilation system. 83
•
Studies of salons found them to have inadequate ventilation. 84
36
PART 2: INDUSTRY PROFILE
This section reports on the size of the industry based on the number of nail salon establishments,
along with industry revenues, trends, and company profiles. The statistics generated for this profile
are drawn from multiple sources using the industry NAICS category 812113.
Nail Salons in the United States

According to the County Business Pattern, there are an estimated 23,745 nail salons in
the United States. Similar to the worker estimates, the number of salons, some that are
unregistered or unincorporated, may also be an undercount.85
Figure 21: Total Nail Salons in United States
There are
23,745 Government statistics are most
nail salons in likely undercounting salons.
the U.S. Salon
Source: County Business Patterns 2016
Based on the available data, the states with the largest number of salons are California, New York,
New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Washington, Texas, Florida, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Illinois.
Figure 22: States with the Most Nail Salons

IL: 3%
CT: 3% 644 salons
713 salons
MA: 3%
758 salons
CA: 19%
4407 salons
FL: 4%
889 salons
TX: 4%
916 salons
WA: 5%
1073 salons
NY: 18%
4273 salons
PA: 6%
1329 salons
NJ: 8%
1983 salons
The counties with the largest numbers of nail salons are Los Angeles County in California
followed by Kings, New York, Nassau, Queens, and Suffolk Counties in New York.
Figure 23: Counties with the Largest Number of Nail Salon Establishments
% of # of
Nail Nail
County, State Salon Salon
Los Angeles, CA 5% 1229

Kings County, NY 3% 615
New York County, NY 3% 606
Nassau County, NY 2% 577
Queens County, NY 2% 520
2% 447
What counties have the
most nail salons? San Diego County, CA 2% 446
King County, WA 2% 406
Orange County, CA 2% 360
Cook County, IL 1% 345
More than two-thirds of nail salons have fewer than 5 employees, and a quarter have between 5 and 9
employees. This higher volume of small-scale salon operations shows that the nail salon industry is
dominated by mom-and-pop salons. However, this data is limited to employees only, so the salons may
have more workers who are independent contractors. In the section on nail salon chains further in this report,
we found that there are only a handful of chains within the nail salon sector with a total of approximately
1,000 salons, again highlighting the prominence of mom-and-pop salons overall.
Figure 24: Establishment Size by Number of Employees
92% of salons have

less than 10 employees.
24% have 5-9 employees
Source: Quarterly Census of Employment and Wages 2017 First Quarter

Industry Revenue, Spending, and Payroll
Nail salons continue to grow and over the next decade, employment in the industry is expected to
grow by 13%, almost double the rate of other US occupations. 86 The most recently available data
from the US Census reveals that in 2015, total revenue for nail salons in the United States reached
$4.4 billion, up 15% from the previous year. Nail salon revenue has grown steadily since 2008, and
it is projected to continue growing, with forecasted revenues of $5.7 billion in 2020. 87
Figure 25: Revenue of Nail Salons from 2008 to 2020
6,000 mil
5,000 mil
4,000 mil
Revenue (Mil USD)

3,000 mil
Projected
Revenue (Mil USD)
2,000 mil
'08 '09 '10 '11 '12 '13 '14 '15 '16 '17 '18 '19 '20
Revenue Projected Revenue

Year Revenue % Growth Year Revenue % Growth
Mil USD Mil USD
2008 $1,593 — 2016 $4,842 10%

2009 $1,725 8% 2017 $5,162 7%
2010 $1,969 14% 2018 $5,397 5%
2011 $2,399 22% 2019 $5,571 3%
2012 $2,989 25% 2020 $5,701 2%
2013 $3,393 14%
2014 $3,834 13%
2015 $4,415 15%
Source: US Census via Statista *Projected Figures

Minh’s Story
Daughter of Nail Salon Worker
Female, age 29
My mom was previously an accountant. She transitioned into the nail salon
industry after my father’s autoparts business fell apart. She felt it would easier to
build relationships in salons owned and operated by Vietnamese people.
She also felt the nail salon industry provided greater job security than
other jobs. I am frustrated and saddened after seeing my mother’s
downward socio-economic trajectory.
My mom hopes to retire and move back to Vietnam with my grandmother.

She cannot afford living here, and she does not have healthcare as a nail
salon worker. She works over 40 hours a week, five days a week, and still
does not earn a lot. She is paid through paychecks and tips, and there is no
confirmation that her employment status is legally documented. I am angry
seeing older Vietnamese women exploited in this industry on a larger level.
As a society, we must ask why it is okay for Vietnamese and other immigrant
women to fill the nail salon industry across the United States.
I feel powerless to help my mother’s situation, whether it be through giving to

my mom the resources she needs to advocate for herself or supporting my
mom herself. One reason why it is so difficult is because my mother does not
talk to me about her work experiences. Additionally, I am currently working 50
to 60 hours a week. From 2012 to 2014, I balanced school and over two to
three part-time jobs, amounting to over 40 hours of work a week, so that I
could pay for my own college tuition and not burden my mom, who does not
have many financial resources herself. I work hard to get by, so it is difficult to
also advocate for my mother. This financial instability is an intergenerational
problem—it does not only affect my mother, but also my life prospects.
In 2017, spending in the industry according to Nails Magazine was approximately $8.5 billion, and Ibis World
for both hair and nail was approximately $11.8 billion. 88 Payroll in the sector is $1.6 billion which is over a third
of the revenue (though this only includes wage-earning employees and not independent contractors).89
BizMiner analyzed 12,742 salons and found that their average business revenue is 282,954. It breaks
down average income and expense by industry. Based on their analysis of nail salon expense, about
33% goes to labor costs related to sales, officers, salaries, and pensions. In addition, some part of
sales, general, and administrative cost includes personnel, so the percent could be as high as 53%.
Non-labor cost of sales includes materials involved with services and account for 17% of business expense. Rent
accounts for 10%, and various other expenses, such as taxes, advertising, and repairs, make up 20% of expense.
Figure 26: Nail Salon Industry Financial Report 2016 United States
Financial Report 2016
Item Dollar Cost Percent
Cost of sales $49,581 17%
Cost of sales: labor $16,911 6%
$22,455 8%
Salary wages $52,737 19%
$2,343 1%
Sales, general, admin & misc: includes some
overhead, admin, & supervisory wages
$56,941 20%
Rent $29,275 10%

Other costs such as taxes, advertising,
repairs, etc. $52,711 19%
Total: Average business revenue $282,954 100%
Source: BizMiner 2016 Industry Financial Profile
Trends in the Industry

New developments in cosmetics, fashion, and nail polish technology have set the pace for
trends in the nail salon industry. In 2013, nail art was big in salons, involving intensive,
hand-painted, polish-only designs. Nail Magazine touted that “many clients you might have
thought of as conservative will now proudly wear cute and trendy looks on their nails.”90
More recently, gel manicures have “revolutionized the nail industry,” with the technique rising in popularity
since 2015. The application took hold because of its polish-like appearance, its different feel from acrylic,
and its long wear.91 Gel lasts approximately two weeks and requires only a 10-minute removal
process. Salons also like gel because it is higher value and salons can charge more for it. 92 Gel
became a “hit with nail techs” and clients alike, who “started going into salons in waves.” 93 In the last
year, dip systems have also taken hold in nail salons. Dip systems are also fast to apply and durable
for the client; for the manicurist, dip systems require less training than acrylic nails or sculpting. 94
In addition to new types of nonacrylic applications, salon cosmetics ingredients have undergone a
transformation toward more “natural” products. Some cosmetics manufacturers have labeled and advertised
their products as “natural,” “green,” and/or “organic.” The shift in labeling speaks to manufacturers’ knowledge
of consumer preferences for safer products and underscores consumer awareness about the impact of
cosmetics chemicals on the environment as well as the body. The Federal Trade Commission has regulations
for how the label “green” can be applied to products and what “green” means. Due to advocacy efforts
discussed in this report’s regulations section and to overall trends in the industry, some cosmetics companies
and nail polish lines have sought to eliminate the toxic-trio of chemicals (toluene, formaldehyde, and dibutyl
phthalate). Manufacturers mostly label their products as either toxic-free, using older standards of toxicity, or
specifically toxic-trio-free; and some are even starting to market their products as 5-free,
7-free, and 9-free, etc. However, new products often include untested chemicals in their
formulations and toxicology reports, or manufacturers replace known toxins with regrettable
substitutions. Differently, a focus on cosmeceuticals has also emerged, or cosmetics that
offer medicinal benefits during their use— often applying to lotions and skin care. 95
The nail salon industry has also been trying to attract male-identifying customers using masculine
advertising. Hammer & Nails salon not only sells beer and whiskey but also describes their interiors
as a “man cave.”96 From wall photos displaying hammers to sports shows on television, the owner
has created a more masculine environment for men who are not metrosexual or gay; the salon’s
services are also 20% more expensive than other salons. 97 As of 2018, the business has four
salons, will open another 14 next year, 98 and expects to have 250 available by 2020.99 Like Hammer
& Nails, some states have begun allowing salons to serve alcoholic beverages; a 2016 California bill
allows beauty salons to serve alcohol if the salon is in good standing, the alcohol is not for sale, and
the amount of alcohol offered as a part of the service is within specified limits. 100
Social media and digital technology has also affected salons, from their marketing to their
customer relations. In 2015 Nails Magazine concluded that “you cannot understate the power of
social media’s effect on the nail business. Nail art is one of the top five most tagged items on
both Pinterest and Instagram.”101 Yelp, too, contributes to salons’ customer engagement and
management. Though designed as a marketing mechanism, negative reviews online both
impacts dynamics at the workplace and inadvertently pressures salons to get good reviews.
The last trend has emerged from the gig economy, with the development of on-demand, app-based manicure
services. These type of mobile salons allow customers to order manicures or pedicures through a cell phone
app, and the manicurist meets the customers where they are, though some workers will only go to workplaces
or corporate events. A few apps were launched as early as 2012, mostly in the New York and San Francisco
areas, but they have now expanded to Boston, Washington, DC, Los Angeles, New Jersey, and South Florida.
These apps include GlamApp, Manicube, La Mienne, Pamper, Priv, and Salons in Vans. GlamApp, for
example, which started in 2014, had 30,000 users in 22 markets in the United States and United Kingdom, with
over 2,000 stylists as of 2017.102 Manicube was founded in 2012 by two business executives too busy to make
the trip to salons.103 The app became available in New York, Boston, Chicago, and San Francisco, and has
since been acquired by Elizabeth Arden Red Door.104 Manicube’s basic services run from $12 to $15, and their
high-maintenance services cost $15 to $18.105 Different states are grappling with how to address mobile salon
services; in early 2018, Nebraska’s Department of Health and Human Services introduced a bill to license and
regulate mobile salon services.106
Nail Salon Chains
Nail salons have traditionally been mom-and-pop operations, but the sector is seeing some large chains
enter the market. The following are highlights of some of the large chains emerging in the sector.
Regal Nails
Year Founded: 1996

Number of Nail Salons: Over 800107
Locations: Big box retailer settings in United States, Canada, Puerto Rico108
Parent company location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Annual parent company revenue: $1.15 million109
Services: Adult manicures starting at $10
Regal Nails is the largest nail salon chain in the United States. When Bo Van Huynh
founded the first Regal Nails salon, he teamed up with “Charlie” Quy Ton, who
expanded the salon into big box retailer settings. 110 Almost all Regal Nails locations
are independently operated, local franchises. The chain aims to provide customers
with affordable and quality services.111 Ton also owns two nail-supply companies,
Alfalfa Nails Supply, which in 2006 served about 10,000 techs, and T4 Spa. 112
Legal issues: In 2003, Regal Nails salon had a customer lawsuit

for $2 million. Also, it had an issue with not being properly
registered as a franchise with the state of Washington.113
DaVi Nails
Year founded: 1995

Number of Nail Salons: Over 200
Locations: Malls and major chain retailers, such as Walmart, in the US
Parent company location: West Valley City, Utah
Services: Manicures starting at $10, pedicures, sculptures, fiberglass, air brush, tips
DaVi Nails, formerly California Nails, appears to be the second

largest nail salon chain in the United States.
Legal Issues: DaVi Nails offers franchising services through direct sales and its
website; however, multiple lawsuits in states like Wisconsin and California forced the
company to desist and refrain, as it had not registered as a franchise with the state. 114
In 2009, the owners of one salon, affiliated with a Walmart in Pennsylvania,

pled guilty to trafficking two nail salon workers from Vietnam. The salon
workers lived in the salon owners’ home and worked every day at the salon
without pay, under threat of being reported to immigration. 115
Happy Nails
Year founded: 1983

Number of Nail Salons: Almost 60
Locations: Chain retails stores in Southern California
Parent company location: Tustin, California
Services: Basic manicures from $15, waxing, threading, skin care
Mai and Henry Huynh first started Happy Nails in Newport Beach, after Mai had
found work as a manicurist and the couple had saved enough money. 116 The salon
brands itself as “homey” and “family run” but also “upscale at affordable prices.” 117
Legal issues: In 2003, Happy Nails reorganized its business to make its
cosmetologists independent contractors. Over the next several years, the legality of
salon workers’ independent contractor status was debated, and Happy Nails was
charged for unpaid unemployment insurance contributions and itemized wage
statement violations. The business however successfully appealed the court
decisions, re-establishing its salon staff as independent contractors. 118
Miniluxe
Year founded: 2006119

Number of nail salons: 25
Locations: Boston, Dallas, Los Angeles, Rhode Island120
Parent company location: Boston, Massachusetts
Annual parent company revenue: $23 million in investments as of 2014121
Services: Manicures from $22 to $47 and pedicures, waxing, and eyebrows
Miniluxe is an up-and-coming higher end nail salon. Partners of venture capitalist

investment firm Cue Ball Capital came up with the idea for Miniluxe after being
challenged to transform any “fragmented industry . . . into the next Starbucks.”
Miniluxe aims to become a “fast casual” experience for its customers and uses big
data and back-end analytics to predict customer traffic and optimize labor and
efficiency.122 Miniluxe offers pricier services than most other nail salons because
the company prides itself on providing a “socially-responsible mani-pedi” with
stringent hygiene standards and workplace practices that meet or go beyond
minimum labor standards.123 Miniluxe claims that its employees receive a wide
array of benefits, including 401(k)s, monthly bonuses, paid time off, flexible work
schedules, paid vacations, and health, dental, and vision insurance.124
RT 3: INDUSTRY OVERSIGHT AND
ENFORCEMENT
In the United States, the nail salon workplace is governed by federal and state regulatory bodies,
legislation, and other rules; county and local policies and programs; and state and federal court
decisions. Health and safety and labor regulators play a key role in oversight of the nail salons.
Unfortunately, nail salon workers’ exposure to labor violations, as well as chemical, biological,
ergonomic, and other hazards, is exacerbated by insufficient or limited health and safety laws and
inadequate enforcement of existing laws.125
In this section, we describe the various regulatory bodies, policymaking/legislation, and community
organizing and advocacy that pertain to nail salons. Because agencies, systems, and laws vary
state by state, we present models from New York and California as examples of how states and
local jurisdictions can provide oversight in nail salons.
Federal and State Regulatory Bodies

Various federal and state agencies are responsible for ensuring safe working conditions in nail salons and the
agencies vary state by state. The following are the agencies that oversee labor conditions, workplace health and
safety, environmental health, and chemicals/toxicity in nail salon products. The examples below of California and
New York show that there are some state agencies with their own labor, health and safety, and product oversight.
In addition, they also have licensing boards that provide additional requirements, support, and services for the
industry, unlike the federal level.
Services Provided Federal Agency State Agency (NY and CA)
Licensing: Oversee and provide licenses • California Board of Barbering and

to nail salon workers; conduct inspec- Cosmetology (BBC)
tions; provide educational materials,
complaint forms, and workers’ rights • New York Division of Licensing
information. Services (DLS)
• California Department of Industrial

Relations/Division of Labor Standards
Labor: Enforce labor laws, combat
Enforcement (DIR/DLSE)
wage theft and retaliation, manage • U.S. Department of Labor (DOL)
wage and hour complaints.
• New York State Department of
Labor (NYSDOL)
• U.S. Environmental Protection
• California Department of Industrial
Agency (EPA)
Health and Safety: Address workplace Relations/ Division of Occupational
hazards such as unsafe inadequate air • U.S. Department of Labor/ Safety and Health (Cal/OSHA)
ventilation, exposure to hazardous Occupational Safety and Health
• California Environmental Protec-
products and workplace injuries; Administration (OSHA)
tion Agency (CalEPA)/ California Air
conduct relevant research; make rec-
• Center for Disease Control Resources Board (CARB)
ommendations; and provide guidance
Protection (CDC)/ The National
around health and safety for workers. • New York State Department of
Institute for Occupational Safety
Health (NYSDOH)
and Health (NIOSH)
Products: Regulate products and • California Environmental

labeling disclosure (though products • Food and Drug Administration Protection Agency (CalEPA)/
still have limited warnings), provide (FDA) California Department of Toxic
toxicology profiles of products and Substances Control (DTSC)
• Department of Health and Human
product information sheets, research
P chemicals in nail products.
Services (DHHS) • California Department of Public
Health (CDPH)
A
Challenges in Enforcing Labor Rights
There are challenges in addressing labor issues in the nail salon industry. A New York Times article found that
the New York State Department of Labor often only responded to worker complaints rather than initiating their
own investigations. When workers file claims against owners, owners often file for bankruptcy, claiming that they
do not have enough money to pay judgments.126 The New York State Nail Salon Industry Enforcement Task
Force was created to confront labor violations in the industry after the New York Times article. Its investigations
have revealed that immigrant owners often do not understand state labor laws, resulting in one of the greatest
barriers to improving workers’ rights. That task force also found that nail salon workers mistrust investigators,
and a common industry practice of off-the-books record-keeping create situations where workers self-report
their wages, often in front of their employers, and risk retaliation.127
The California Department of Industrial Relations contracted with the Labor Occupational Health Program
(LOHP) at the University of California, Berkeley, to conduct stakeholder meetings with nail salon owners
and workers. LOHP found that workers lacked information or had received misinformation about labor laws
and that owners only loosely followed labor laws out of concern about the cost of compliance. 128
Labor claims are still low, and labor agencies can do a better job of investigating labor violations and enforcing
labor standards. The DOL received just 273 complaints for the whole country from 2005 to 2018. California
investigated 291 salons, issued 194 citations, and opened 115 nail-salon wage-claim cases between 2011 and
2016. In 2015, Connecticut had 23 stop-work orders at nail salons for wage violations as well.129 The New York
State Nail Salon Industry Enforcement Task Force uncovered 652 wage violations in 143 nail salons in a single
year—between May 2015 and May 2016. In 2016, the task force directed 143 nail salons to pay
$2 million in unpaid wages and damages to 652 employees.130 These are positive efforts,
but the agencies could be further staffed up to expand enforcement.

Challenges in Enforcing Health and Safety
There are also continuing challenges in ensuring safe and healthy conditions in nail
salons. Federal organizations can conduct more research on the environmental effects of
chemicals and hazardous exposures found in nail salon products and push for more
legislation, such as those to control toxins that are released into the air.
OSHA requires employers to provide Safety Data Sheets for products used in the salon that contain
toxic chemicals. In one study, about half of workers stated they were not familiar with the Safety
Data Sheets, which is consistent with the findings that training about workplace hazards and safety
information access is limited in Vietnamese nail salons.131 Many workers are not trained in safe
chemical handling,132 partly as a result of of OSHA’s lack of implementation and enforcement. In
addition, OSHA’s permissible exposure limits (PELs) for chemicals commonly used in nail salons
are outdated, some going back to the 1970s.133 Furthermore, OSHA has done little to investigate
worker health conditions or create a plan to implement and enforce updated PELs. 134
The FDA’s mandate is to ensure the safety of products that go on the market. Yet the FDA allows
products that contain potentially harmful ingredients to be sold if the products are deemed safe by
the manufacturers when used as directed—applied to nails rather than ingested. 135 Unfortunately,
the FDA’s mandate does not take into account how many chemicals found in nail salons can affect
workers through multiple exposure routes, as well as synergistic and long-term exposure. 136
On the state level, the California Department of Toxic Substances Control could improve protocols and
coordinate and contribute to efforts across local municipalities to ensure that nail salons are incorporated into
Health Nail Salon programs (see below). The California Department of Public Health has not reevaluated or
updated safer PELs, and Cal/OSHA, which can regulate toxic chemicals, has not done so.137 Additionally,
although Cal/OSHA standards require all California employers to have an Injury and Illness Prevention Program
to assess and address safety and health hazards in the workplace, the agency does not have enforcement
guidelines.138 An analysis by the California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology (BBC) has noted that the
agency has an insufficient number of inspectors, conducts inspections infrequently, and does not explain the
reasons for citations to workers and owners.139 Another study found that owners felt that the BBC site audits are
not transparent or fair.140 Workers have described interactions with BBC inspectors as threatening and causing
fear, nervousness, and a sense of vulnerability.141
YES
NO
Source: California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative. Illustrations by Mary Ann Zapalac
Municipal Programs
There are many programs in local jurisdictions, with volunteer or elected staff, designed to
improve working conditions in nail salons. We highlight a few here but want to
acknowledge there are many other programs throughout the United States.
• Healthy Nail Salon Recognition Programs:

•
In California, counties and cities have voluntarily implemented the Healthy Nail Salon Recognition
Program (HNSRP), which follows a nine-point plan to ensure healthy workplace practices, including
safer nail polishes and products, ventilation, and staff training142. Nail salons voluntarily register to join
the program and become “Healthy Nail Salons.” There are HNSRPs in the counties of Alameda, San
Mateo, and Santa Clara, the City of Santa Monica, and the City and County of San Francisco.143
•
King County, Washington, offers a program to recognize healthy nail salons, similar to California’s.
Salons voluntarily register to join the program and become healthy nail salons once they satisfy certain
requirements. Salons that follow a smaller set of requirements are designated as “three-star” healthy nail
salons, and salons that satisfy a greater number of requirements are ranked with four or
five stars.144 King County’s HSNRP falls under its EnviroStars program, which aims to
promote green practices in different businesses.145
• Green and Clean Program:
•
Boston has the Green and Clean Program, which recognizes nail salons, along with hair salons
and auto shops, for participating in the program. The program follows a four-point “leaf” system. In
order to participate and get one leaf, nail salons must meet the program’s minimum requirements,
including employing one Green and Clean practice and one method of reducing chemical exposure
along with not using nail salon products with certain chemicals. Salons that do more to reduce
chemical exposure and protect the environment are awarded up to four leaves. 146
• New York City Public Advocate:

•
The New York City Public Advocate is a citywide elected position, first in line to succeed the mayor.
In 2014, the public advocate released a report on the dangerous sanitation conditions and
worker safety issues at nail salons.147 The advocate’s office also introduced a program to fit
quality sensors, which would monitor chemical levels in the air, on nail salon desk lamps. 148

Legislation and Policies
State legislation and policies can provide improvements in areas such as language rights, labor
protections, health and safety protections, and industry standards, but only if there is adequate
enforcement. The following are examples of legislation in New York and California. Many efforts in New
York emerged out of statewide emergency regulations that came out of the Nail Salon Task Force.
• Language Justice: Communities have led efforts to push states to enact more language justice
policies—particularly for nail salons that have immigrant and limited-English-speaking workers. 149
In 2014, California passed the Dymally-Alatorre Bilingual Services Act (AB 2253) to ensure
agencies had staff and materials/forms in languages other than English. Two years later, the
Labor Law Education Requirements (AB 2025) increased language access to information and
materials, including labor issues, through the BBC. In 2015, New York passed emergency
regulations for nail salons that included free English classes and licensing in multiple languages.
• Labor: The 2016 California Labor Law Education Requirements (AB 2025) included
workers’ rights education for BBC-licensed owners of establishments and for all BBC-licensed
professionals.150 The 2018 California Supreme Court decision Dynamex Operations West, Inc. v. The
Superior Court of Los Angeles County makes a distinction between a worker and an independent
contractor using the ABC test, discussed in this report’s misclassification section. In New York, a set of
legislation and emergency regulations in 2015 strengthened workplace conditions in nail salons by
mandating a) the posting of the nail salon workers’ bill of rights, b) cease and desist postings,
c) a governor’s task force to combat worker exploitation, comprised of 10 state agencies, e) new
bond and insurance requirements, f) authority to shut down businesses that violate
the law, and g) training and job resources for workers.151
• Health and Safety: California Assembly Bill 2125, passed in 2016, created guidelines to help
localities establish Healthy Nail Salons as part of the Healthy Nail Salon
Recognition Program.152 New York’s personal protective equipment and ventilation
regulation requires owners to provide safety equipment and to post a sign that
states the workers’ right to demand and wear gloves and masks.153
• Product Safety: The California Safe Cosmetics Act, passed in 2005, requires cosmetics
manufacturers to report chemicals found in their products that are known carcinogens or
reproductive toxicants to the CDPH. 154 Unfortunately, not all companies comply; they may fail to
update the database when products are reformulated, incompletely disclose ingredients under
the guise of “trade secrets,” and/or remove ingredients without citing a reason. The extent of
noncompliance is difficult to assess,155 and the database may not include reportable ingredients for
all products because of weak enforcement, limited funding, and lack of coordination and public data
on ingredients.156 However, California Assembly Bill 2775, recently passed in August, 2018, requires
manufacturers to include all ingredients on the label of professional cosmetics manufactured on or
after July 1, 2020. This is the first bill of its kind passed in the country.
Nail Salon Organizing and Advocacy
Nail salon advocacy over the past decade has helped to improve working conditions and
provide healthier workplaces. Many of the efforts to improve nail salon conditions mentioned
here have resulted from worker-led, community organizing and advocacy. Though such efforts
have occurred across the United States, for this section, we focus on California and New York.
• California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative: The Collaborative was founded in 2004 when the
organization Asian Health Services first noticed consistent health issues in nail salon workers. 157 Seeking
to address the health issues from breathing issues to cancer, the Collaborative has mobilized workers,
owners, and organizations throughout California focused on supporting healthy workplaces, advocating for
safe cosmetics and beauty products, increasing nail salon workforce leadership, and protecting workers
rights. The Collaborative successfully advocated for counties and cities to adopt the Healthy Nail Salon
Recognition Program. Almost 200 nail salons across the state have voluntarily become certified as Healthy
Nail Salons.158 The Collaborative has also advocated for the translation of fact sheets, forms, and the
licensing process into Korean, Spanish, and Vietnamese, with the BBC. Additionally, the Collaborative
has advocated for the BBC to require workers’ rights education for all new BBC licensed professionals.
• New York Healthy Nail Salons Coalition (NYHNSC): The NYHNSC was founded in 2014 as a coalition
between Adhikaar and the New York Committee for Occupational Safety and Health, with Workers United, SEIU
(Service Employees International Union) joining in 2015. The coalition focuses on worker-led strategies
for labor rights, reproductive health, occupational health, and public interest law. 159 Member
organizations have studied and tracked workers’ health symptoms at nail salons, conducted
safety trainings, held workers’ forums, and advocated for language justice for the licensing
process. Since the establishment of the 2015 New York emergency regulations, the coalition
has advocated for better translation of materials, the Nail Salon Workers’ Bill of Rights, and a
wage bond. In spring 2016, the coalition held a workers’ congress for just jobs.
CA Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative staff and nail salon members meeting with policy champion Assemblymember Kalra, the
author of AB 2775. Source: California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative
Staff from Immigrant Resettlement and Cultural Center (IRCC) in San Jose, CA providing free health, safety
and labor rights information to a nail salon worker. Source: California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative
Advocacy Day in Sacramento in support of AB 2775! Our coalition included Vietnamese nail salon workers, African American hair
stylists, and organizations including the CA Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative, Black Women for Wellness, Women’s Voices for the
Earth, Breast Cancer Prevention Partners, and BeautyCounter. Source: California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative
Healthy Nail Salon Recognition Program. Source: California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative
Recommendations
Nail salons are a thriving and growing industry shaped by immigrant entrepreneurship and industry innovation
that has made what was once an exclusive luxury service accessible for most. As the industry expands and is
reshaped by new technologies and models, we must continue to ensure safe and quality jobs for the
workforce. While there are numerous agencies and policies that regulate the sector, there continues to be a
need to strengthen enforcement efforts of existing laws and expand protections for workers.
The following are recommendations to ensure labor protections and standards as well as continue
to advance policies and practices that create environmentally safe and healthy salons for workers
and consumers alike. Below, we summarize the recommendations by potential actors.
1. Ensure quality jobs and labor protections for nail salon workers.
Agencies
• Safeguard worker wages and benefits, such as minimum wage, overtime
pay, paid sick leave, and meal breaks, through enforcement of labor laws.
• Address issues of misclassification where employees are incorrectly

categorized as independent contractors, which deprives workers of
workplace benefits and protections and the right to organize.
• Mandate safety, health, and workers’ rights training for

employers at salon openings, and repeat on a regular schedule.
• Allow penalized workers and owners to take continuing education

courses in exchange for eliminating regulatory violation penalties.
• Address language barriers in educational and know-your-rights materials

and allow workers to speak in their own languages in the salon.
Policy makers
• Expand worker protections and policies that improve job quality,
including fair wages, safer workplaces, and access to benefits.
• Remove barriers to licensing for workers by removing immigration status

requirements, making exams available in relevant languages, such as Nepali
and Tibetan, and allowing alternative testing for those unable to read or write.
• Address gaps in government data that does not fully capture the
experiences and demographicsof nail salon workers. Ensure workers feel
comfortable and safe taking government surveys, and encourage
employers to report all workers. Create occupation categories specific to
nail salons, and ensure demographic data is being captured by all states.
Advocates
• Develop a continuing education program and curriculum that
provides workers with the skills to advance.
• Provide culturally and linguistically appropriate education to workers

and owners about labor and employment law.
Employers
• Create pathways for workers to increase their skill sets and provide
opportunities for wage increases.
Researchers
• Support the National Scientific Advisory Committee, which provides technical
guidance on future research efforts created by the California Healthy Nail Salon
Collaborative and National Healthy Nail and Beauty Salon Alliance.
• Conduct a study that examines the labor conditions of nail salon

workers more in-depth and on a national level.
2. Guarantee enforcement of workplace

protections. Agencies
• Provide culturally and linguistically appropriate outreach to educate
workers about their rights and employers about their legal responsibilities.
• Address barriers to filing claims, such as protecting workers from retaliation and
intimidation for speaking up and considering new approaches, such as language-
accessible tip lines to report nail salon labor, safety, or health violations.
• Allay workers’ fear so that they feel confident in demanding better

wages and labor rights.
• Create a model for independent contractor agreements and related

educational materials to help employers and workers understand and
correctly classify workers as independent contractors.
• Create government-community partnerships by funding community organizations

that are better able to build trust with workers to provide necessary information.
Advocates
• Give workers decision-making power and substantive leadership
positions in advocacy organizations.
• Ensure that organizing initiatives represent the needs of the broad

population of workers.
• Create multi-stakeholder collaborations that create high-road labor practices,

such as comprehensive education outreach programs that include labor and
workers’ rights issues and government-community partnerships to conduct joint
enforcement efforts and building stronger worker-owner collaborations.
• Engage and learn best practices from other campaigns, industries,

and regions that can be applied to the nail salon industry.
Researchers
• Conduct further studies to better understand working conditions,
labor issues, enforcement efforts, and other needs of the sector,
particularly experiences not captured in public government data sets.
3. Support high-road businesses and good employers.
Agencies and Advocates
• Create programs for salon owners on how to run financially and
environmentally sustainable, healthy, and just businesses.
• Educate nail salon consumers on why it is important to pay a fair price for nail services.
• Create public campaigns that educate customers about nail salon fair
and healthy working conditions and safer beauty product alternatives.
• Use technology and crowdsourcing to elevate high-road salons

through methods such as online salon ratings.
Employers
• Meet with other good employers in the sector to share best practices and business models.
4. Assure health and safety of nail salon

workers. Agencies
• Expand healthy nail salon programs that are culturally and linguistically appropriate, raise
awareness about safer products and practices, provide health and safety trainings, conduct
outreach to workers, and provide informational materials to reduce worker exposure.
• Run health and safety awareness campaigns for nail salon workers and
require health and safety education during the licensing process.
• Use worker health outcomes as indicators of safety, instead of

possibly outdated exposure limits.
Policy makers
• Require cosmetic manufacturers and distributors to conduct further studies and
provide proper labels on chemicals in nail salon products that may be hazardous.
• Require cosmetic manufacturers to make products safe by ending the

use of harmful ingredients in products.
• Provide access to health care for workers who are particularly

vulnerable to health issues in the industry.
Advocates
• Continue to engage workers on health and safety issues and best
practices through participatory and peer-to-peer programs.
Employers
• Participate in healthy nail salon programs that include guidelines on
and support in creating a healthier workplace.
Researchers
• Continue to conduct and expand research on the cumulative effects of
chemicals and exposures on worker health.
• Continue to conduct and expand research on green chemistry to reduce the use
of hazardous substances in products and ultimately improve the health
and safety of consumers and workers.
Technical Appendix
Worker Estimates
To understand nail salon worker counts, we used the following national government datasets:
• Bureau of Labor Statistics, United States Department of Labor, Occupational

Outlook Handbook 2016, Manicurist and Pedicurist.
• United States Census Bureau, American Community Survey 5-year estimate

2012–2016 retrieved from IPUMS-USA, University of Minnesota, www.ipums.org.
• The sample does not have a specific manicurists and pedicurist occupational variable;
these workers are included in the broader category of personal appearance workers. We
used the occupational variable, 4250-Personal appearance workers, and limited it to
only occupations in the industry, 8990-Nail salons and other personal care services.
• National, state and county estimates encompass workers over the

age of 16 and currently in the labor force.
In addition, we requested data from the California and New York state boards that
oversee licensing for the industry.
• California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology Licenses, 2017, Manicurists, Current License.
• New York State Department of Labor, 2018, Nail Specialty License.
Worker Characteristics
We used United States Census Bureau American Community Survey 5-year estimate 2012–2016 to
gather worker characteristics such as economic status, demographics, and health and social benefits.
We included workers and self-employed individuals who are currently employed (except for the labor
force and unemployment data points), over the age of 16 and living in the United States.
Low Wages
For wage data, we limited our analysis to those between 18 and 64 years old, who earned a
wage, were not self-employed or unpaid family workers, currently work more than three hours a
week for at least 14 weeks in the past year, and live in the United States. In computing the
hourly variable for the ACS, we followed standard practice. 160 Using a standard metric, we
define low wage as less than two-thirds of the full-time median wage. 161 The United States
median hourly wage for full-time workers was $20.18 in 2016, so low wage is $13.46.
Worker Profiles
Two summer interns for the California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative conducted twelve interviews
between June and July 2018. The interview guide inquired in the areas of family background, reasons
for employment, wages, workplace harassment and abuse, occupational health and safety, training,
and future goals. We conducted interviews in English and Vietnamese. The interns recruited
interviewees through their personal networks, outreach efforts at nail salons and community events,
and the Collaborative’s network. The interviews were summarized and analyzed for common themes.
Industry Data
For industry data, we used the NAICS 812113 Nail Salon Industry category and
included data from the following data sources.
• US Census Bureau, County Business Patterns 2016

• Quarterly Census of Employment and Wages 2017
• US Census via Statista 2008–2020
• BizMiner Industry Financial Profile 2016
Acknowledgements
Advisory Committee
Helen Chen, UC Berkeley Labor Occupational Health Program
Melany De La Cruz-Viesca, UCLA Asian American Studies Center
Daniel Ichinose, Asian Americans Advancing Justice, Los Angeles
Julia Liou, Asian Health Services
Catherine Porter, California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative
Alexandra Scranton, Women’s Voices for the Earth
Swati Sharma, San Francisco Department of the Environment
Erin Switalski, Women’s Voices for the Earth
Sarah Thomason, UC Berkeley Labor Center
Haeyoung Yoon, Community Change
UCLA Labor Center Research Team

Saba Waheed, Preeti Sharma , Vina Nguyen,
Lina Stepick, and Reyna Orellana
Communications
Veena Hampapur and Citlalli Chavez, UCLA Labor Center
Design
Wendell Pascual and Eunice Ho, UCLA Labor Center
Editor
Julie Monroe, UCLA Institute for Research on Labor and Employment
Data Analysis and Research support

Oscar Mayorga and Michele Wong, UCLA Labor Center
UCLA Labor Center Administrative support

Grace Fransisca and Claudia Suarez
Additional Thank-Yous
Goetz Wolff, UCLA School of Public Affairs
Lisa Fu and California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative, for guidance and support
Prarthana Gurung, Adhikaar, for reviewing the report.
Van, Catherine, Cathy, and Minh, for your time and stories
Report Authors
Preeti Sharma, Saba Waheed, Vina Nguyen, Lina Stepick,
Reyna Orellana, Liana Katz, Sabrina Kim, and Katrina Lapira
Report Citation
Sharma, P., Waheed, S., Nguyen, V., Stepick L., Orellana, R., Katz, L., Kim, S. Lapira, K. (2018).
Nail File: A Study of Nail Salon Workers and Industry in the United States. UCLA
Labor Center and California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative.
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution, Noncomercial, Share
Alike 4.0 Unported License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0
Funding
The California Healthy Nail Salon Collaborative and the NoVo Foundation and the UCLA Labor Center
Endnotes
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33. Ibid.
34. Ibid.
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125. Liou, J., Porter, C. A., & Quach, T. (2011). Policy Recommendations to Reduce Toxic Exposures
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128. California Labor and Workforce Development Agency and Department of Industrial
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A STUDY OF NAIL SALON

WORKERS AND INDUSTRY

Part 1: Worker Profile............................................................17

Part 2: Industry Profile.........................................................37

Part 3: Industry Oversight and Enforcement........45

Industry Oversight and Enforcement

• Advocates should develop a continuing education program and curriculum that

• Researchers should provide technical guidance on future research efforts.

2.Guarantee enforcement of workplace protection.

• Researchers must conduct further studies to better understand working conditions,

3.Support high-road businesses and good employers.

4. Assure health and safety of nail salon workers.

• Advocates should continue to engage workers on health and safety

• Employers should participate in healthy nail salon programs that include

• Researchers should continue to conduct and expand research on the cumulative

Inside the Salon

Immigrant Entrepreneurship and Workforce

A manicurist can be an employee or independent contractor. Employees are hired directly by

Figure 1: Estimates of Nail Salon Workers in the United States

Bureau of Labor Statistics

American Community Survey

Figure 2: Nail Salon Workers in California and New York

There is a lack of consistent data

State License Board Data 103,587 33,751

Where do nail salon

44% of US-based nail

Source: American Community Survey 5-Year Sample 2012–2016

Figure 5: Labor Force Participation of Nail Salon Workers

Source: American Community Survey 5-Year Sample 2012–2016

Figure 6: Employment Status of Nail Salon Workers

Source: American Community Survey 5-Year Sample 2012–2016

Figure 7: Full-time and Full-Year Status of Nail Salon Workers

Of all nail salon workers, how many work

68% Female workers 80%

86% Male workers 85%

72% All workers 81%

Source: American Community Survey 5-Year Sample 2012–2016

Figure 8: Employee and Self-Employed Status of Nail Salon Workers

Female manicurists Male manicurists All manicurists

29% 35% 30%

Source: American Community Survey 5-Year Sample 2012–2016

Figure 9: Nail Salon Workers Low-Wage Rate

Source: American Community 5-Year Sample 2012–2016

What is the median wage for all workers

PART-TIME $10.19 $9.06 FULL-TIME

Nail salon workers

Source: American Community 5-Year Sample 2012–2016

Figure 11: Nail Salon Worker Characteristics

76% 81% 58%

Source: American Community 5-Year Sample 2012–2016

Figure 12: Median Years in the US (among Foreign-Born)

What are the median number of years that

Foreign-born Foreign-born All Foreign-born

16 years 22 years 17 years

Source: American Community 5-Year Sample 2012–2016

Figure 14: Educational Attainment of Nail Salon Workers

Less than high school 28%

High school degree 39%

Some college 19%