Brigham Young University

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All Faculty Publications

2007-01-01

Solar Dryer Construction and Use Manual Version

2.0 2007
Jonathan P. Rowe
rowe.jp@gmail.com

Jonathan K. Russon
jonathan.trish@gmail.com

See next page for additional authors

Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarsarchive.byu.edu/facpub

Part of the Food Science Commons, and the Nutrition Commons

Original Publication Citation

Department of Nutrition, Dietetics, and Food Science Brigham Young University

BYU ScholarsArchive Citation

Rowe, Jonathan P.; Russon, Jonathan K.; and Steele, Frost M., "Solar Dryer Construction and Use Manual Version 2.0 2007" (2007).
All Faculty Publications. 938.
https://scholarsarchive.byu.edu/facpub/938

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Authors
Jonathan P. Rowe, Jonathan K. Russon, and Frost M. Steele

This peer-reviewed article is available at BYU ScholarsArchive: https://scholarsarchive.byu.edu/facpub/938

Solar Dryer Construction and Use Manual
Version 2.0 2007
Jonathan P. Rowe, Jonathan K. Russon, Frost M Steele
Department of Nutrition, Dietetics, and Food Science
Brigham Young University
Provo, Utah, 84602
USA

Chimney

Drying Racks

or
ollect
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Introduction—

In less time than it took to develop this solar dryer and manual, the Pacific
Island area has experienced several typhoons and tropical depressions
followed by significant flooding and destruction of homes, properties and
crops. It is in the interest of all people to become more self-reliant in times
of need and to have the basic necessities available at a moment’s notice to
sustain life until transportation, commerce, health care, agriculture, water,
etc. can be restored to a more normal state. This work was done to enable
the people of the Pacific islands to meet some of their food requirements in
times of need by enabling them to preserve some of their indigenous crops
for storage in times of emergency.

This manual is developed for the use of those interested in drying of food
products in the Pacific Island areas. The dryer was developed for use in
the Pacific area, but can easily be adapted for use in most any area of the
world. The angle of the solar panel area to the sun is set for use in areas
close to the equator. The angle could be adjusted relative to the latitude of
the area and season of the year in which you wish to dry food products, but
little would be gained by this minor adjustment and so the angle used in
this plan should be satisfactory to most areas of the world.

In the development of this solar dryer, consideration was taken to use only
materials that should be readily available in most island areas. Cost of
materials was also considered with the cost of this dryer being
approximately $180-$200 US as purchased in Fiji. Naturally this will vary
from time to time and from location to location. This value is given only as
an estimate. While every effort was made to minimize the cost of the dryer,
it must be realized that this dryer was developed for use by groups and
therefore is more costly than the average family could afford, but several
families together should be able to construct a dryer without significant
financial burden.

Some carpentry skills are necessary for successful construction of the

dryer. This manual is developed for those with minimal carpentry skills. If
there are questions on methods used, please refer to a carpenter.

Comments and feedback regarding this manual, procedures, and

application can be directed via email to Dr. Frost Steele at
frost_steele@byu.edu
 Solar Dryer Materials List

Quantity Dimensions Description Metric measures

1 *8’x 4’x ¾” Exterior Plywood sheet 2.4m x 1.2m x 19mm
1 **8’ x 4’ x ¼” Exterior Plywood sheet 2.4m x 1.2m x 6mm
2 8’ x 4” x 2” treated pine lumber, dressed 100mm x 50mm
20 8’ x 2” x 1” treated pine lumber, dressed 50mm x 25mm
3 3/8” x 6’ Dowel 9.5mm x 1.8m
1 liter black exterior paint semigloss
1 kg 1” galvanized jolt head nails
1 200 ml wood glue
2 pair 4” strap hinges, light duty 100mm
2 cans 10 oz flat black spray paint
2 3” gate hook brass or galvanized
1 tube 300 g silicone adhesive and sealant
2 meter 1/8” link galvanized chain
6 meters 3’ width 23ga welded ½”mesh galvanized 915mm width
10 meters 20ga galvanized steel wire
1 6’ x 2’ x 1/8” Clear Pespex (plexiglass) 1.83mx610mmx3mm
1 kg 1 ¼” Wood screws (gib board screws work well)
½ kg 2” Wood screws (gib board screws work well)
7 meters 30 cm width Heavy Grade Aluminum Foil

Tools Required
Tape rule
Pencil
Electric circular saw, hand saw may be used as well
Electric drill with bits, hand drill may be used as well
Hammer
Safety glasses
Heavy duty scissors
Screwdrivers
Wire cutters

Not absolutely necessary, but helpful

4 rubber caster wheels (2”) mounted at the base of the dryer to aid in movement
of the dryer. Locking casters are recommended.
Table saw
Level
Carpenter square
Protractor or carpenters triangle

*Can use ½” in place of ¾” plywood, but strength and durability will be less
**Can use 4mm in place of 6mm, but strength and durability will be less
Procedure for dryer body assembly

1- Assemble all building materials and tools before beginning.

2- Lay out dryer pieces on 19 mm exterior plywood according to

dimensions from layout plan below.

2400mm x 1200mm x 19mm exterior ply layout plan drawn to scale

2400 mm

1690 mm

m
229 m
Side Panel 2
255mm x 660mm
Back Roof Panel Door Panel
760mm x 660mm

1200 mm
m
5m
80

713 mm
2m
78
Back Chimney Panel
650mm x 150mm
152 mm

Side Panel 1

2070 mm

Side panel detail measurements (mm)

(not to scale)
307
319

140

371

Side Panel

3- Cut out only side panel 1 from 19mm sheet being careful not to cut into
other pieces.

4- Flip side panel 1 onto side panel 2 to ensure they are matching mirror
images. Make any necessary adjustments to side panel 2.
5- Cut out side panel 2 from 19 mm sheet, again be careful not to cut into
remaining pieces.

6- Cut out door panel and roof panel and chimney panel from 19mm sheet.

7- Lay out dryer pieces on 6mm exterior plywood according to Figure 2,

ensuring that all pieces fit as described.

Figure 2-
2400mm x 1200mm x 6mm exterior ply layout plan -drawn to scale
2400mm

660mm x 255mm
Front Roof Panel
Bottom Panel
2083mm x 600mm

1200mm
Chimney Front Panel
Front Panel
650mm x 150mm
600mm x 805mm
Chimney Side Panels (2)
550mm x 150mm

8- Cut a 255mm piece of wood off the end of the 6mm sheet this will later
be cut into the front roof panel.

9- Cut the remaining 6mm piece exactly in half lengthwise. From these
pieces the bottom panel, front panel, and chimney pieces will be
constructed. This cut down the middle must be exact so the two pieces
are of equal width.

10- Measure and cut the bottom panel followed by the front panel and then
the chimney panels.
11- Glue and nail bottom panel to side panels as shown below. Bottom
panel should be flush at the top leaving approximately 20mm overhang
at the bottom.

Bottom panel should be flush

with corner of side panel

Bottom panel should overlap end of

side panel approximately 20mm

Nail along edges of base using 1" galvanized nails

as shown approximately 150mm apart.

12- Cut 10 struts from 50mm x 25mm pine 561mm in length.

13-Attach struts connecting side panels using glue and two 2” wood screws
in locations as shown below.

Side view of side panel showing strut placement.

Front panel

..
Two 2" screws at
each strut location

50mm x 25mm struts

14- Attach front panel as shown above using 1¼” wood screws at 200mm
spacing.

15- Cut a length of 100mm x 50 mm pine 610mm in length and attach to

bottom front of dryer using 4- 2” screws as shown below for front base
of dryer.
16- With the help of another, place the dryer body against a straight wall so
the back of the dryer housing is flush to the wall as shown. Place each
of the 100mm x 50mm pine timbers on each side of the dryer and also
flush with the wall as shown. With a pencil, mark the angles of the dryer
on the timber as shown.

Wall

4- 2" screws used to attach

front base to dryer body

o
o
o

17- With each of the marked 100mm x 50mm timbers cut the top off at the
angle marked. Do not cut the bottom angle completely through!
Cut the inside of the timber halfway through at the bottom marked angle
as shown below to a depth of 20mm. Then rip the timber to the top as
shown, cutting out the piece shaded to form the dryer legs.

1-Cut completely through board 2-Rip the timber down to the

on the marked angle at top. bottom mark at a depth of 20 mm

20mm depth
 18- Attach dryer legs to dryer body, resting the dryer on the notched
support of the leg. Attach with 2” screws as shown in next diagram.

Top edge of each roof panel

may be beveled to ensure
o a tighter fit
o
o
o
8- 2" screws used to anchor
o each dryer leg to dryer body.

Back roof panel (19mm)

o o
Front roof panel (6mm)

oo

oo

oo

Rest dryer body

on notch of leg

Rear view

19-Attach back roof panel (19mm) to dryer body using 6-2” screws as
shown above. Attach front roof panel (6mm) to dryer body using 6-
1 1/4” screws. Roof panels may be beveled to create a tighter fit, but
this is not necessary.

Solar Panel Construction—

The solar panel may be constructed using a variety of materials.
Individuals should evaluate availability, cost, and durability of materials
before building. In the following description heavy duty aluminum foil is
used. This is inexpensive and typically available but not very durable.
One may also consider using alternate materials like aluminum soda
cans or light gauge aluminum sheeting.

20- Paint the bottom of the solar collector area black before proceeding.
21- Drill holes parallel to the bottom panel through the centers of the two
struts shown below starting at the center of the strut and drilling one hole
every 115.5mm. This should make five holes in each strut.

Side view of side panel showing drilling

of struts to support solar panel material.

o
115.5mm

o
Front panel

Enlarged view o

..
Two 2" screws at
each strut location

50mm x 25mm struts to be drilled

to support solar panel material

22-String wire through the holes as shown below: this can be done using
one length of wire and tightening the wire later on. These wires will
support the solar panel material.

View of solar panel showing stringing 20 ga steel wire

through struts to support solar panel material.

o
115.5mm

o
115.5mm

o
23-The material of choice should be bent to approximately 60o so that it
forms deep groves approximately 115mm deep and bent at the top so
as to rest on the wire supports as shown below.

End view of bent foil End view of solar panel showing 20 ga steel wire
to overlap steel wire supporting bent solar panel material.

o 20 ga wire supports
60 angle

115 mm

24- Care should be taken when placing the material on the wires to place
small quantities of silicon adhesive to the support wires. This will aid in
keeping the solar collection material firmly in place.

25- Construct a frame to fit over the top of the solar panel area. Measure
the solar panel area to ensure exact measurements for your frame.
Use 50mm x 25mm pine laid flat to form the frame. Frame may use 45o
cuts at the corners (preferred) or simply butted tight to each frame
piece. Cut a groove (dado) to fit the pespex (plexiglass) approximately
12mm deep into the inside edge of each frame piece. Note: If you do
not have access to a table saw to cut these dados, the plexiglass may
be carefully drilled and surface mounted to the backside of the frame
with small screws and sealed with silicone sealant.
26- Attach top three sides of frame to base of dryer solar panel. Be careful
not to place screws through the dado of the frame. Leave the frame
bottom off to allow the plexiglass to be slid into the frame.

27- Measure the inside area of the frame and add 20mm to each
dimension. Cut the plexiglass to these dimensions and slide it into the
frame. Attach the bottom portion of the frame to the bottom strut of the
dryer solar panel base.

Food Dryer Cabinet Construction –

28-Cut the 9.5mm dowels into 60 pieces measuring 60mm each in length.

29-Inside the dryer area, mark the centers for 2 vertical lines of fifteen
holes 49mm on center, in each side of the dryer as shown below (one
line 60mm from the front of the dryer and one line 60mm from the back
of the dryer, making a total of four lines of fifteen marks each). Drill at
each mark using a 9.5mm drill bit (3/8”) to a depth of 18mm. These will
be used to insert the small lengths of dowel. The holes should be
placed so that their centers are 49mm apart.

60mm

Inside view of dryer cabinet showing placement

of dowel supports for 15 dryer shelves

49mm

Front Back

Bottom dowel hole

.. should be aligned
with top of strut.

30-Place a small amount of glue on the end of each dowel and then using a
hammer, gently pound the dowels into each of the holes to a depth of
18mm. These dowels will support the shelves for the dryer.
31- Measure the final width of the dryer and do a final cut for the door to the
back of the dryer. The door should measure near the values of 760mm
x 630mm. Attach the door to the back of the solar dryer cabinet using
screws provided with the 4” strap hinges or with 1 ¼” wood screws as
shown below. Attach 1/8” galvanized chain to hold door at a horizontal
position when opened as shown. Attach gate hooks to each side of
dryer door to hold door securely and tightly shut.

Dryer Shelf Frame Construction –

32-Construct fifteen frames from 50mm x 25mm pine to fit into the shelf
support slots in the dryer cabinet. Frames should be approximately
565mm x 400mm. This may be adjusted to fit your specific dryer, but
shelf frames should slide freely in and out of dryer cabinet as shown.

33- Construct frames similar to the method described previously in directive

number 25. Dado grooves in dryer shelves should only be wide enough
to fit the 23 gauge welded mesh. A single cut with the table saw should
be adequate width of the dado groove. Cut each groove on the inside
edge of each frame piece approximately 15mm deep. If no table saw is
available wire mesh can be simply stapled to the frame.
34- Cut fifteen pieces of welded mesh to fit dimensions of frame interior
(485mm x 330mm) plus 20mm added to each dimension to fit into the
frame groove (505mm x 350mm).

35-Assemble three sides of each dryer shelf frame using glue and 2” wood
screws. Slide welded mesh into each frame and attach final side to
complete frame. Mesh may be secured in the dado groove with silicone
sealant. Ensure frame is square and fits easily into dryer cabinet
between shelf supports as shown.

Dryer shelf frame with

galvanized wire mesh
in shelf support of dryer
cabinet. o
o
Dryer Chimney Construction –

36- Assemble using glue and nails the

remaining chimney pieces (one 19mm
thick piece and three 6mm thick
pieces) to form a long rectangular
chimney approximately 650mm long
and 150mm square. Be sure to have
one end of the chimney flush leaving
the other end with the shorter side
panels across from each other as
shown in the photos.

37- Using some extra plywood, construct a

small roof for the chimney. This roof
should extend a little bit over the sides
of the chimney and should leave a gap
to allow hot air to escape during use as
shown.

38- Mark on the top of the dryer roof the

exact width of the chimney. Note that
the chimney has a front (6mm) and
back (22mm). Orient the chimney
correctly before marking and cutting
into the roof of the dryer.

39- Cut a hole in the top of the dryer whose width is the same width as the
side to side width of the chimney and whose front to back distance is
the same as the front to back inside distance of the chimney. Cut the
front and back edges of the chimney so that they are flat. This will
ensure that the chimney will have a firm base to rest on. The chimney
should sit down into the dryer roof along the sides and also be resting
on the dryer roof on the front and back edges of the chimney.

40- A set of strap hinges may be attached to the back of the chimney which
will allow the chimney to fold down for easier transport. To ensure that
the chimney is firm in the upright position, tension lines may be added
on the front of the dryer as shown.

41- Paint exterior of dryer with exterior paint to protect from the weather.
Black paint will help increase temperature of the drying chamber. Dryer
is best stored in a protected area or under a tarp.

42- Bracing may be installed on the leg supports to ensure greater stability.

43- Wheels may also be installed on the dryer to improve mobility of the
dryer.

Dryer is now complete!

 Solar Drying – Use Manual
1. INTRODUCTION
Use of a solar dryer is an efficient, simple method of producing a
shelf-stable food. This manual concentrates on the drying of complex
carbohydrate containing foods such as taro, cassava and breadfruit that
are predominant in the diets of most Pacific Islanders. Even though these
foods are specifically discussed, other root crop foods and fruits may be
dried using the principles discussed in this manual. For foods with a rapid
rate of deterioration, such as cassava, taro, and breadfruit, this method is
especially useful. Through solar drying, these foods can be stored for long
periods and used in emergency situations. Food preparation, drying,
storage, and rehydration are all key components of producing a quality,
shelf stable product. If dried and stored properly, these foods should last at
least one year.

2. FOOD PREPARATION
With all products, it is important that the beginning product is fresh:
use of a poor beginning product leads to a poor finished product. If
possible, begin sample preparation within one or two days of harvest of the
product.

a. Peeling: Begin food preparation by peeling the product being

dried. Products may be peeled in the traditional or customary
way. Rinsing with water may be necessary during and/or after
the peeling process to remove excess dirt.

b. Slicing: Once the

food has been
peeled, slicing can
begin. For best
results, the
products may need
to be sliced
different than
traditional
methods. The
process of drying
and rehydration
requires specific
slicing methods.

Taro slices should be

between 1/4” and 3/8” (7-10 Taro – before (right) and after (left) peeling
mm) thick. For larger pieces,
it is necessary to cut the
sliced pieces in halves.
Smaller pieces will decrease
total drying time.
 To slice cassava,
first cut the
cassava into 3”-4”
(5-8 cm) sections.
These shorter
sections will help
the cassava dry
quicker. From
these sections, cut
the cassava so that Peeled and unpeeled cassava sections
it is no more than
½” (13 mm) at its
thickest part.

Breadfruit slices should be cut approximately 3/8” (1 cm) thick.

After slicing, the center (seeded) section will need to be cut out of
some pieces.

3. FOOD DRYING
a. Placement on the Drying Rack: After the food has been sliced,
it is now ready to be put on the drying rack. Place a single layer
of slices on the drying rack, with as little contact between pieces
as possible. With more surface area exposed to air, the pieces
will dry better.

b. Rotating Racks within the Solar Dryer: When the pieces have
been placed on the drying rack, they are now ready for drying in
the solar dryer. Open the back of the dryer, and place one rack
in each of the slots built into the dryer. Throughout the drying
process, the racks may be rotated to help the products dry
evenly.

c. Rotating the Dryer:

Throughout the drying
process, it is important to
rotate the entire dryer.
To create the most
effective drying
environment, the
plexiglass (pespex) face
of the dryer should be in
direct sunlight. This is
accomplished by
periodically rotating the
dryer until the side of the
dryer and the shadow
form a continuous line. Shadow cast by direct sunlight
 d. Weather Adjustments: During the drying process, adjustments
may be needed periodically to adapt to the current weather. For
example, if it begins to rain, it is best to pull the dryer into a
covered area during the rain.

4. FOOD REMOVAL
In order to obtain the best finished product, the dried food must be
removed from the dryer at the proper time. Because this time varies
between the foods being dried, general rules must be applied. In the case
of root crops, if the food is dried to a proper level, it will snap sharply when
broken. It will also be distinctly dry and brittle. In addition, if the pieces
begin to crack, they should be dry enough to be removed from the dryer.
When drying fruits with higher sugar content, a properly dried product will
still be soft and leathery with no visible moisture. Pieces should not stick to
each other, but spring apart after being pressed together.

5. FOOD PACKAGING
Once the food has been dried, it is ready to be packaged and stored.
Following several guidelines will increase the quality and shelf-life of the
product:

a. Package: For optimal results, Mylar™ pouches (a foil-plastic

laminate) are recommended. These pouches will also require a
heat sealer to create an airtight environment in the bag. If these
packages are not available at stores, they may be obtained
through the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints
Distribution Services. Alternative methods are available, but
these methods will decrease significantly the shelf-life of the
product. Such methods include using polyethylene plastic
(requiring a heat sealer), or Ziploc™ type sacks. Glass jars with
a tight seal may also be used. If using an alternative method,
creating an airtight environment is crucial.

b. Oxygen Absorbers: Before sealing the storage package,

addition of oxygen absorbing packets is strongly recommended.
This packet will absorb whatever oxygen may be present, thus
reducing the chance of microbial growth. Oxygen absorbers may
also be ordered through the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day
Saints Distribution Services. These absorbers work best when
combined with the Mylar™ pouches, but may also be used with
alternative packaging methods.

c. Environment: The storage environment is important in

preserving foods, especially those not packaged in Mylar™. A
dark, cool, and dry environment is most suitable for the
preservation of dried foods. In contrast, a wet, warm, and/or
sunlit area will decrease the shelf-life of the dried products. In
addition, rodents and pests are capable of chewing through most
types of packages. To remedy this, an environment free or
resistant to rodents and pests is recommended.
6. REHYDRATION
In the case of dried root crops, before eating the dried food, it must
be rehydrated (have water added back into the product) and cooked. For
best results, soak the dried product overnight in water. Once this has been
done, boil the food until it has the desired texture. After rehydration, the
food may be prepared in a usual manner.

Fruits may be eaten directly in the dehydrated form.

References

•Scanlin, D. 1997, Indirect, through-pass, solar food dryer. Home Power. February-
March 62-72.
•Midilli. A., Kucuk, H., and Yapar, Z., 2002. A new model for single-layer drying. Drying
Technology, 20(7) 1503-1513.
•Vlachos, N.A., Karapantsios, T.D., Balouktsis, A.I., Chassapis, D. 2002. Design and
testing of a new solar tray dryer. Drying Technology. 20(6) 1243-1271.
•Sharma, V.K., Calangelo, A., and Spagna. 1995. Experimental investigation of different
solar dryers suitable for fruit and vegetable drying. Renewable Energy. 6(4) 413-424.