Home Owner Basics

The Complete Photo Guide to
100 essential projects every

homeowner needs to know
(j
Creative Publishing
international
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA
www.creativepub.com
(j Home Improvement Group:
Publisher: Bryan Trandem

Digital edition: 978-1-61673-360-5
Softcover edition: 978- 1-58923-376-8
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Creative Publishing
international Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley
Senior Editor: Mark Johanson The complete photo guide to homeowner basics:
Copyright © 2008, 2011 Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar 100 essential projects every homeowner needs
Creative Publishing international, Inc. to know.
400 First Avenue North Creative Director: Michele Land-Altomare p.cm.
Suite 300 Senior Design Manager: Brad Springer At head of tide: Black & Decker.
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55401 Design Managers: Jon Simpson, Sara Holle By Jodie Carter and others.
1-800-328-3895 Summary: "Detailed step-by-step guide to the
most common repair and maintenance projects"--
www.creativepub.com Production Managers: Linda Halls,
Provided by publisher.
All rights reserved Laura Hokkanen
IncJudes index.
ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-376-8 (soft cover)
Printed in China Authors: Jodie Carter (Wiring), David Griffm ISBN-lO: 1-58923-376-X (soft cover)
(Plumbing), Matthew Paymar (Flooring), 1. Dwellings--Maintenance and repair--Amateurs'
10987654321 Jerri Farris (Painting & Decorating), manuals. r. Carter, Jodie. II. Creative Publishing
Steve Willson (Outdoor) International. III. Black & Decker Corporation
President /CEO: Ken Fund (Towson, Md.)
VP for Sales & Marketing: Kevin Hamric Page Layout Artist: Lois Stanfield TH4817.3.C65652oo8
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2007048065
CONTENTS
Introduction ... . .. .. .. .. . ... . .. .... 4
WIRING ....... . .. . . .... . . .. . . . . 7

Before You Begin
Putting Together a Wiring Kit ...... 8
Understanding Electrical Circuits ... 10
1. Replacing Phone Jacks .......... 18
2. Removing Broken Lightbulbs ...... 22
3. Fixing Lamp Sockets ............ 26
4. Fixing Doorbells ................ 30
5. Fixing Pull-Chain Switches. . . . .. 34
6. Installing Programmable
Thermostats ................... 38
7. Adding Wireless Light Switches .... 42
8. Replacing Bad Receptacles ....... 48
9. Child proofing Receptacles ........ 52
10. Installing GFCI Receptacles ....... 58
11. Replacing Bad Light Switches ..... 64
12. Installing Dimmers .......... 70
13. Installing Timer Switches . ........ 76
14. Replacing Ceiling- Mounted
Fixtu res ....................... 80 PLUMBING . ................... 123 6. Fixing Running Toilets . .... .... . 162
15 . Replacing Hanging Light Before You Begin 7. Clearing Clogged Toilets . . . . . . 170
Fixtures ..... . ......... 86 The Home Plumbing System .... 124 8. Fixing Leaky Tubs & Showers ..... 174
16. Installing Track Lights ............ 90 Plumbing Tools. ....... .... 128 9. Adjusting Bathtub or Shower
17. Installing Motion-Sensing Evaluating Your Plumbing . . 132 Drainage . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . .... 180
Floodlights ............... . .... 96 1. Shutting Off the Water .. .... 134 10. Clearing Kitchen Sink Drains . 186
18. Repairing Fluorescent 2. Recovering Items from Drains .. .. 138 11 . Fixing Leaky Sink Strainers. . 190
Light Fixtures ...... 100 3. Preventing Frozen Pipes .. . . .. .. 142 12. Clearing Clogged Floor Drains . 192
19. Fixing Ceiling Fans.. . ... 106 4. Fixing Dripping Sink Faucets . .. .. 146 13. Adding a Shower to a Tub. . . . 196
20. Installing Raceway Wiring ....... 112 5. Adjusting Water Pressure ........ 156 14. Replacing Bathtub Spouts ... 200
15. Replacing Widespread 13. Refinishing Hardwood Floors ..... 302 3. Fixing Sliding Screen Doors ...... 406
Bathroom Faucets ............. 204 14. Painting Wood Floors .......... 308 4. Installing Storm Doors. . . . ... 410
16. Installing New Bathroom 15. Installing Laminate Flooring ...... 312 5. Tuning Up Double-Hung
Faucets ...................... 210 16. Installing Floor Tile ............. 32 1 Windows ..................... 416
17. Replacing Kitchen Sprayers ...... 214 6. Exterior Caulking ....... . .... 420
18. Repairing Burst Pipes ........... 218 PAINTING & DECORATING . . . . ... 329 7. Pestproofing Your House ........ 424
19. Replacing Kitchen Faucets ... 222 Before You Begin 8. Fixing Concrete Walkways . ...... 428
20. Replacing Pop-up Stoppers ...... 228 Painting Tools ................. 330 9. Repairing Asphalt Driveways ..... 432
21. Replacing Toilets .............. 232 Decorating Tools .............. 332 10. Fixing Broken Glass Panes ....... 438
Prep Materials ..... .. .. .. ..... 334 11. Repairing Concrete Steps ..... 442
FLOORING . ................... 239 Choosing Paint ................ 335 12. Repairing Siding. . . . . . . . . ... 446
Before You Begin 1. Hanging Pictures & Mirrors ...... 336 13. Repairing Stucco ... 450
Understanding Floors ........... 240 2. Replacing Towel Bars ........... 340 14. Renewing a Wood Deck . ..... .. 454
Choosing Flooring ....... . . .... 242 3. Hanging Curtains .............. 344 15. Replacing Damaged Roof
Evaluating Floors .............. 244 4. Installing Window Blinds & Shingles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...... 458
Cleaning Floors ............... 246 Shades ...................... 346 16. Installing Locksets &
1. Repairing Splinters & Gouges .... 250 5. Anchoring Bookcases ........... 352 Deadbolts ........ . . .... 462
2. Fixing Squeaky Floors 6. Draping & Taping .............. 356 17. Tuning Up Garage Doors ........ 468
from Below ................... 254 7. Painting Walls .......... 360 18. Installing House Gutters .. . . ... .. 474
3. Fixing Squeaky Floors from 8. Preparing Unfinished Wood 19. Installing Landscape Lighting .... 478
Above ....................... 258 for Paint ..................... 364 20. Pressure Washing a House ....... 484
4. Repairing Resilient Flooring ...... 262 9. Painting Millwork & Trim ........ 368
5. Patching Resilient Sheet 10. Painting Wood Cabinets ........ 374 Resources .......... . . .. ... ...... 488
Flooring ..................... 264 11. Painting Concrete Block Walls .... 376 Metric Equivalents .... . ......... 489
6. Repairing Loose Carpet Seams ... 268 12. Stripping Wallcoverings ......... 380 Glossary ....... . . ... . . . . .... 490
7. Replacing Ceramic Tiles. . . 272 13. Hanging Wallcoverings ......... 384 Index . . ............ 492
8. Replacing Laminate Floorboards ... 278 OUTDOOR PROJECTS ........... 395
9. Patching Carpet ............... 282 Before You Begin
10. Removing Resilient Flooring ..... 286 Outdoor Tool Kit .............. 396
11. Removing Carpet .............. 290 1. Clearing Clogged Gutters ....... 398
12. Sealing Concrete Floors ......... 294 2. Touching Up Exterior Paint ...... 402
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when follow- rurers' instructions included with products, since deviating
ing the procedures described in this book. The Publisher and from the clirections may void warranties. The projects in this
Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage book vary widely as to skill levels required: some may not be
to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require
information provided. professional help.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for Consult your local Builcling Department for information on
various applications. In some instances, additional techniques building permits, codes and other laws as they apply to your
not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufac- project.
Introduction
4 THE COMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE FOR NEW HOMEOWNERS

OWNING A NEW HOME IS A CHALLENGING YET
REWARDI NG EXPE RI ENCE. Whether the house itself

is new or not, there exists an overwhelming number of
remodeling and decorating options you have as a new
homeowner. And it doesn't matter if you've bought
your first or tenth home, it's still new and brimming
with potential to you.
After unpacking all the stuff, where does one start?

You'll probably have a list a mile long that looks some-
thing like this: install a new toilet, repair the light fix-
tures, fix the doorbell, replace the exterior siding, hang
new window treatments, refinish the kitchen cabinets,
install a new livingroom floor or paint the existing
floor or refinish the wood that may be under the exist-
ing carpet.
With The Complete Photo Guide to Homeowner Basics you'll

have the information to accomplish all of the most com-
mon repairs and installations homeowners face, and you
do not need any previous experience because this book
explains it all for you in five sections: Wiring, Plumbing,
Flooring, Painting & Decorating, and Outdoor Projects.
The first few pages of each section give you the back-
ground information and technical knowledge that will
be helpful. Then the most common projects follow.
Each project has a detailed overview of the parts you'll

be working on and the terms you'll need to know as
well as photographs that show you all of the tools and
materials you'll need. Then step-by-step instructions fol-
low. Virtually every step is photographed so you'll see
exactly how to do the work, and along the way you'll
find helpful sidebars that show you what to do if some-
thing unexpected happens, how to use tools correctly,
and which safety precautions to take. Before you know
it, you'll be successfully completing one home repair
after the next. And because you do it yourself, you'll save
hundreds if not thousands of dollars: all the more
money to allow you to tackle that next project sooner
rather than later.
INTRODUCTION 5
6 THE COMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO HOMEOWNER BASICS
Wiring
THE WIRING SECTION OF THIS BOOK IS UNIQUE IN THAT YOU
DON'T NEED TO HAVE ANY PRIOR KNOWLEDGE TO SUCCESSFUL-
lY EXECUTE THE WIRING REPAIRS AND INSTAllATIONS. ALMOST
EVERY WIRING BOOK REQUIRES YOU TO HAVE SOME FAMILIARITY
WITH THE SUBJECT MATTER BEFORE YOU BEGIN. IF YOU HAPPEN

TO BE A TRUE BEGINNER, YOU'RE ALREADY AT A DISADVANTAGE.
THIS BOOK DOESN'T ASSUME YOU ALREADY KNOW A lOT ABOUT
THE SUBJECT. AND IT'S ALSO A BOOK THAT WON'T lEAVE OUT
ANY INFORMATION.
On the following pages you'll find directions for solving the most uni-
versal wiring problems and projects in your home. No knowledge is
assumed, and no question is left unanswered.
IN THIS CHAPTER:
o Before You Begin o Installing Dimmers

Putting Together a Wiring Kit o Installing Timer Switches
Understanding Electrical o Replacing Ceiling-Mounted
Circuits Fixtures
o Replacing Phone Jacks o Replacing Hanging Light

Fixtures
o Fixing Lamp Sockets
o Fixing Doorbells o Installing Track Lights
o Fixing Pull·Chain Switches o Installing Motion-Sensing
Floodlights
o Installing Programmable o Repairing Fluorescent Light
Thermostats
Fixtures
o Adding Wireless Light Switches o Fixing Ceiling Fans
o Replacing Bad Receptacles o Installing Raceway Wiring
o Childproofing Receptacles
o Installing GFCI Receptacles
o Replacing Bad Light Switches
WIRING' Introduction 7
Before You Begin:
Putting Together a Wiring Kit
E1ectria1l
tape
Toolbox
Needlenose Combination tool

pliers
sensor
Here's pretty much all you'll need to complete most of the repairs and
projects in this book. They are available at any home improvement center
or hardware store.

UNLIKE SOME OTHER TYPES OF HOME IMPROVEMENT SKILLS, MAKING BASIC
wiring repairs doesn't require very much at all in the way of tools and materials. Investing $30
to $40 puts you in a position to save hundreds of dollars on routine wiring repairs. We recom-
mend that you keep a small toolbox with items dedicated to your wiring tools. That way, you
can bring your kit to your work site, and will have the screwdrivers, pliers, and other things you
need handy, and won't have to hunt for a screwdriver at the most inconvenient time. Here are
the things we recommend for your wiring tool kit:
• Electrical tape. These days, tape isn't used to make wire connections, but to help label
wires temporarily as you replace fixtures. Some electricians, though, do wrap a loop of elec-
trical tape around plastic wire connectors to reinforce the connections.
• Toolbox. A small plastic toolbox is just fine; one with a divided tray for holding wire
connectors, screws and other small items is a good choice.
• Wire connectors. Sometimes known as "wire nuts," after one manufacturer's product.
They're used to join wires together, and you'll be using them a lot. They're color coded for
convenience. Green connectors are used for bare copper grounding wires. With most man-
ufacturers, orange connectors are used for two small wires, yellow for two or three wires,
red for three or more wires. But you should follow the recommendations on the box, in case
you buy a different brand.
• Lamp sockets. Repairs to lamps and light fixtures are very common, so you can save your-
self time by having a few of these on hand. Besides, they're very inexpensive.
• Switches & receptacles. Because these are so frequently needed, and so inexpensive, keep
a few on hand. Sooner or later, you'll need them.
• Cord kit. Another inexpensive item that's good to have on hand. Lamp cord kits have preat-
tached plugs, to make rewiring a lamp very easy
• Screwdrivers. Have at least two screwdrivers; one with a slot-shaped tip, the other with an
X-shaped Phillips tip. It's even better to have several sizes of each type.
• Needlenose pliers. This tool is used for almost every wiring project, and is used mostly for
bending and connecting wires.
• Current sensor. This clever tool tells you if the wires you want to work on are carrying
electricity or not. Best of all, this new-style tool doesn't require that you touch any wires.
• Combination tool. This workhorse does it all: cuts cables, identifies wire sizes, strips wires.
It is the single most important wiring tool you can have.
There are handful of other workshop tools you may use in your wiring projects. They
include: a portable drill, a hammer, a level, a utility knife, a tape measure, and a stud finder.
If you don't already own them, you may need to buy or borrow them when you get to proj-
ects that require them.
WIRING' Before You Begin 9

Before You Begin:
Understanding Electrical Circuits
NO QUESTION ABOUT IT: WIRING AND ELECTRICITY MAKE MOST PEOPLE JUST A
LI TT LEN E RV 0 US. Understanding a bit about how electricity behaves in the wires that run
through your house will help take away a bit of the scary mystery, and will also give you
some confidence to make these repairs. So let's take a short tour of your electrical system.
You might even carry the book along with as you walk through your home looking for the
things we describe.
Electricity is really nothing more than a form of magnetism running through wIres.
Electrical energy is obviously invisible, but it's useful to think of it in much the same way as
you'd think about water flowing through plumbing pipes. Like water, the electricity is pres-
ent but not really moving until you "open the faucet" by turning on a light switch, or turn-
ing on the motor for an appliance .
Problems occur when the wires (the "pipes") carrying current become broken or blocked, or
if they "leak" electricity outside the system. If you're ever been shocked, you know one
result of electricity leaking outside its wires. Because flowing electricity generates heat, leak-
ing electricity can also cause fires. These are the reasons electricity makes people a little
nervous: it's an invisible energy, it can cause shocks, and it can cause fires.
Fortunately, the system has lots of safety features built in to prevent these problems. And to
stay perfectly safe while making repairs to the system, all that's necessary is for you to shut
off the flow of electricity in the wires you want a work on. This is very, very easy to do, as
you'll soon see. Let's start the tour:
2 Inside the service panel are rows of toggle

1 For all intents and purposes, your electrical switches. These are circuit breakers. They serve
system beginS for you with the main service panel. two functions. First, they protect wires from hav-
Usually this is a gray metal box located in a utility ing too much current flowing through them. If
area of your home- the basement, the garage, or you've ever had a circuit breaker trip and lights go
a utility room. Sometimes, though, it might be out suddenly, you've experienced this safety feature.
located inside a wooden wall cabinet in a finished Secondly, the circuit breakers let you shut off the
basement room. power to wires when you want to work on them.

3 Each of the circuit breakers in the service panel sends and controls
"...--0))
ｾ＠
8
electricity through a circuit-a continuous loop of wire that runs from the
service panel, out to one or more receptacles, appliances, or light fixtures, ｳｾ＠
and back again. This diagram shows a simplified circuit. Even the most
complicated circuits are just variations of this basic idea. Electricity changes
0 p
its nature as it flows through the circuit wires. It begins as "hot" current.
This current is under "pressure," which means that it carries voltage. After the electricity does its work, by
creating light or heat or moving mechnical parts in an appliance, it loses its pressure, or charge, and becomes
"neutral" as it flows back to the service panel. The wires carrying hot current are normally black or red,
while neutral wires are usually white. In addition to the hot and neutral wires, a circuit has a loop of bare
copper wire (or sometimes an insulated green wire). This grounding wire is a safety feature that carries stray
electricity back to the service panel if the other wires "leak" their electricity.
4 Here's another circuit map that shows how a more complicated circuit
ＮＭｵｾ＠
8
works. This circuit sends electricity to both a switch/light combination, and
a receptacle outlet. If you follow the path of the black wire, you'll see how
it works. As the black wire carrying hot current reaches the switch location,
U! 0 []
it branches, sending one black wire that passes all the way through the light <It!!
fixture and goes to the receptacle. This allows the receptacle to operate
independently from the switch and light. Back at the switch, you'll see that another black wire leads to the
switch. The hot current passes through the switch, then is carried to the light fixture through a red wire,
which is part of a cable containing three insulated wires. From both the light fixture and the receptacle, white
wires carry "depressurized" neutral current back to the service panel.

HOW TO TURN OFF THE POWER
1 Find your m ain service panel (see page 10).

Make sure there is no m oisture on the floor below
the panel. In very rare instances, people have been
shocked when th ey touch a service panel while 2 With your finger, snap the lever on the circuit
standing in water. Open the door of the panel, and breaker to the OFF position. You will hear an
look for the index on the inside face of the door. If audible click, and on some breakers a red window
your electrical service has been properly m apped, w ill appear on the face of the breaker. Now, close
the index w ill tell you exactly which circuit break- the panel door, and m ake very su re that everyone
er controls the circuit w ires you want to work on . in the house knows you' ll be working on w ires,
This isn't always the case, though. Sometimes and that they shouldn't touch the service panel.
you'll need to switch them off one at a time, iden- DO NOT actually work on wires until you've test-
tifYing the correct breaker through tri al and error. ed for current (next page).
WHAT IF .•• ?
f you have an older home with an electrical panel that

I contains fuses rather than circuit breakers, you will shut
off power to the circuits by removing the fuses. ｾｉ＠
1 locate the fuse that controls the circuit wires you plan
to work on. like a circuit breaker panel, fuse panels usual-
ly have an index that labels the circuits. The circuits that
control ordinary wall outlets and light fixtures are usually
screw-in fuses. The fuses for large appliances are usually
cartridge fuses that fit into a fuse block you pull out of
the panel.
2 Unscrew the fuse, being careful to touch only the

insulated rim of the fuse.

HOW TO TEST FOR CURRENT
TOOL TIP
o-touch current testers are very easy to use,

N but they a re accu rate only if they a re work-
ing properly. Before trusting it to test wires to
make sure they are safe to work on , test the
tool on a fixture that is carrying live current-
the power cord on a lamp that is turned on , for
example. Turn the tester to ON, then move the
probe around the lamp wires until the tester
glows or sounds its audible alarm. Now you
know the tool works correctly, and can trust it
to accurately test wires for live current.
Receptacles: Remove the coverplate on the recep-

. <§> GJtIENUh aT ·11 Volt.ge ｄ･ｬＮｾｴｯｲ＠ｾ＠ ......
SG- 1)DCutt.u " , tacle. Turn the tester on, and verity it works by
ｾ＠ = -- - -
. -
•
. J
Ｍｾ＠ . testing it on wires you know to be live. Now insert
the probe tip on the receptacle into the electrical
box on each side of the receptacle. If the tester
does not indicate current, you know the wires are
now safe to work on.
Wall switches: Remove the coverplate on the switch,

Light fixtures: Loosen mounting screws and care- and insert the tip of the current tester into the box,
fully lower the light fixture away from the ceiling passing it within If" of each of the screw terminals
box. With the wall switch in the ON position, pass on the side of the switch . If the tester does not
the tip of the current tester within If" of each wire. light up or beep, the wires are safe to work on.
W I RING ' B e for e You Be g i n 13

HOW TO MAKE WIRE CONNECTIONS
ONE OF THE FEW SKILLS THAT IS UNIVERSAL TO MOST WIRING PROJECTS IS
STRIPPING WIRES OF THEIR OUTER PLASTIC JACKETS, exposing the bare wires, and
then connecting those wires to each other or to wire leads or screw connectors on switches,
outlet receptacles, light fixtures, or other devices. So before moving on to any actual repairs
in this book, practice the following skills:
• Stripping cables and wires • Making push-in connections

• Connecting wires • Making set-screw connections
• Making screw terminal connections
HOW TO STRIP WIRES
1 If you need to, cut away any plastic sheathing 2 Determine how much wire to strip. Many
on the cable containing the wires, using the cutting receptacles and other devices come with a gauge
jaws of a combination tool, or a utility knife. (If you that tells you how much wire to strip. Usually, it's
use a utility knife, make sure not to nick the plastic about 3,4 ".
jacket on the individual wires. If necessary, you can
trim the wires down to size, using the cutting jaws
on the combination tool.
3 To strip insulation from the individual wire,

select the opening on the combination tool that
matches the size of the wires. In most instances,
you'll be using the 12-gauge or 14-gauge openings
on the tool. Open the jaws and place the wire in
the correct slot, then close the jaws of the tool
around it. Tug on the wire until it comes free from
the insulation.

HOW TO CONNECT WIRES WITH SCREW CONNECTORS
1 Screw connectors are used to join circuit

wires together, or to join circuit wires to the wire
leads on a light fIxture, dimmer switch or other
device. Choose a wire connector appropriate for 2 Hold the wires together and slide a wire con-
the number of wires you're connecting, and for nector onto them. Twist clockwise until the wires
their size. Wire connector packages come with are snug. You shouldn't be able to see any bare
recommendations for usage. Green wire connec- wire exposed. Tug on the wires gently to make
tors are reserved for grounding wires. sure they're firmly attached.
HOW TO MAKE SCREW TERMINAL CONNECTIONS
1 Strip about 3,4" of insulation 2 Form a C-shaped loop in 3 Hook each wire around the
from each wire, using your com- the end of the wire, using a appropriate screw terminal on the
bination tool. Choose the slot in needlenose pliers. Make sure the device, so it forms a clockwise
the tool that corresponds to the wire has no nicks or deep scratch- loop. Attach only one wire under
wire size-this will almost always es. If it does, clip it off and restrip each screw terminal. Tighten the
be 14-gauge or 12-gauge wire for the ends of the wire. screw securely. The plastic insula-
the type of wiring you're doing. tion on the wire should just touch
the screw, and the end of the wire
should be under the screw, not
extending beyond it.

HOW TO MAKE PUSH - IN CONNECTIONS
1Although they are not as secure as screw con-

nections, you can also use push-in connections on
some switches. Some devices also have push-in
connections. To make this connection, use the strip 2 Insert the bare copper wires firmly into the
gauge on the back of the device to mark the wire for push-in fittings on the back of the switch or recep-
stripping. Use a combination tool to strip the wire. tacle. There shouldn't be any bare wire exposed.
Tug gently to make sure the wire is firmly
gripped. If not, remove the wire and reinsert. If
the device won't grip the wire tightly, connect the
wire using the screw terminals instead.
WHAT IF .. . ?
new type of wire connector looks like a

A twist connector, but instead uses a simple
push-i n action .
Strip the wires to
the length indicat-
ed , then simply
slide the bare wires
into the holes on
the connector.
3 If you need to remove a wire from a push-in

fitting, insert a small nail or screwdriver into the
release opening next to the wire. The wire should
pull out easily.
CONTINUITY TESTER
continuity tester is a specialty tool that can be used

A to test lamp cords, switches, sockets, switches, and
other devices to see if they are working correctly. The con-
tinuity tester is a battery-operated tool that sends a very
faint electrical current through the metal components on a
device, and senses whether or not there is a continuous
pathway for household current to follow. If you have doubts
about the condition of a device, the continuity tester
offers a quick way to tell if the device is faulty or not.
Although there's only one project in this book that calls for
a continuity tester, it's useful tool you might want to add
to your wiring tool kit.
On lamp cords, use the

continuity tester to
check the pathway from
the prongs on the plug
to the ends of the
cords.
On pull-chain switches,
attach the clip of the
tester to one of the
switch leads, and hold
the tester to the other
lead. Pull the chain. If
the switch is good, the
tester will glow when the
switch is in one position,
but not in the other.
On wall switches, attach

the clip of the tester
to one of the screw
terminals and touch the
probe to the other
screw. Flip the switch
lever from ON to OFF. If
the switch is good, the
tester will glow when
the switch is ON, but
not when OFF.

Replacing Phone Jacks
1
Phone jacks are easily damaged. Whether they get smashed by an errant
chair leg or their wires get rattled loose, a faulty jack can degrade the
quality of the sound on your phone-or disconnect you altogether. The
good news is that working on phone wiring is easy and very safe.
REPAIRING OR REPLACING A BROKEN PHONE JACK is a project that offers a lot of

bang for the buck. If a phone jack somewhere in your house has stopped working or has very
poor sound quality, you can probably fix it by investing $5 and less than an hour of your time.
The phone system is separate from the household wiring, and runs on a very mild current,
which means you don't have to worry about shock. You don't have to turn anything off to
replace a phone jack.

PHONE JACKS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Phone jacks generally have four thin colored wires in them . The wires are Replacement
phone jack
connected to screw terminals or to slotted brackets. The four wires are usually
colored red, yellow, green and black. Connect the individual system wires to
the screw or bracket connected to the matching color leads leading to the
Lineman's
pliers
modular plug.
CHEAT SHEET
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
f your wires don't match the color scheme shown here, don't worry. Use this
I chart as a reference for connecting wires to the screw terminals:
• Ma king wire connections (page 14)
The red terminal will accept: • a red wire
• a blue wire (or blue with white stripe)

DIFFICULTY LEVEL
The green terminal will accept: • a green wire
• a white wire with blue stripe
The yellow terminal will accept: • a yellow wire
• an orange wire (or orange with white stripe)

EASY MODERATE
The black terminal will accept: • a black wire You'll likely finish this in 30 minutes
• a white wire with orange stripe or less.
WIRING' Replacing Phone J a cks 19

HOW TO REPAIR A PHONE JACK
2 Under the cover, you' ll see six or eight

wires in four colors. Each of the wires should
be firmly seated under a screw terminal or in a
forked metal tab. If one of the wires is loose,
reattach it to the terminal of matching color.
1 If the jack has no visible damage, you may Plug in the phone to test it. If it still doesn't
be able to get it working again by reconnecting work, continue with replacing the jack.
loose wires inside. Pry the cover off the jack
with a small screwdriver.
4 Take the old jack to a hardware store or home

center and try to find a similar replacement jack so
3 To remove the jack, first disconnect all the you can use the same mounting holes. Remove the
wires from their screw terminals or forked tabs. cover from the new jack. Carefully thread the
Then, unscrew the screws (there may be one or phone wire through the back of the new jack, and
two) holding the jack to the wall. Tape the connect the wires to the screw terminals of match-
phone wires to the wall so they don't get ing color. Attach the jack to the waIl, replace the
knocked into the wall cavity. cover, and test the phone.

WHAT IF ••• ?
W hat if I have a really old jack? Older style phones used a

four-pin system rather than modular plugs. New phones
won't work with these jacks, so you'll need to replace them with
new modular jacks.
1 Unscrew the old jack from the wall, and

carefully pull it away from the wall.
2 On the back of the old jack, you'll find two or

four colored wires connected to screws.
Unscrew the screws to free the wires and then
clip away the stripped portion of the wires.
Buy a new modular phone jack.
3 If your new jack uses forked tab connectors,

thread the phone cable through the opening
in the back of the jack, then press each of
the four wires into a forked tab that already
contains a wire of the same color running to
the plug-in opening. If your new jack uses
screw terminals, follow the instructions on
the opposite page. After all the wires are
connected, plug in a phone. You should have
a clear dial tone.
4 Set the jack over the old mounting holes

and make sure the wire isn't being pinched
against the wall. Drive the mounting screws
back into the holes. Snap the cover back
onto the jack and plug in your phone.
WIRING' Replacing Phone Jacks 21

Removing Broken Lightbulbs
2
Even with the simplest wiring repairs, using a voltage sensor to check for
power is a good idea. We'll then show you how the pros handle this job-
using a needlenose pliers to remove the broken lightbulb. This technique
works on even the most corroded and rusted light fixture sockets.
IF YOU'VE EVER TRIED TO REMOVE A L1GHTBULB THAT'S CORRODED AND STUCK
in a fixture socket, you know that the lightbulb can easily break, leaving the bulb's aluminum
base stuck in the fixture. There are several solutions to this common problem; some work
better than others. For example, you may have heard of the old potato trick that suggests you
push a raw potato into the broken socket and turn. But this introduces moisture and other
debris into the fixture, and it doesn't work that well, especially if your broken bulb is really
stuck. The bar of soap technique isn't much better. Effective methods include using a pair of
needlenose pliers or a bulb extractor device, which can be found at most hardware or home
improvement stores.

LIGHT SOCKETS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Bulb
extractor
Replacement
bulb
"
Safety glasses
Ｍ Leather gloves
ｾ＠
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
• Turning off the powe r (page 10)

• Te sting for current (page 11 )
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
Over time, the aluminum base of a lightbulb may become corroded and difficult
to remove from its socket. You can almost always remove the bulb without dam-
aging the socket. In this cutaway lamp, you can see exactly how a light fixture
socket works. Current flows up into the lightbulb through the "hot" wire and
through the central contact in the base of the bulb. The current flows through MODERATE
the filament inside the light bulb, loses its charge by producing light, then the You'll finish this job in just a few minutes.
neutral current flows back to the neutral wire through the threaded metal por-
tion of the bulb and socket.
WIRING' Removing Broken Lightbulbs 23

HOW TO REMOVE A BROKEN L1GHTBULB
1 Before you start to remove the broken

bulb, turn off the power to the light (or unplug
the lamp, if that's what you're working on).
Then, with the light switch in the ON position,
place the tip of your voltage sensor in the bro-
ken bulb base. If the sensor beeps or lights up,
then the wires are still live and are not safe to 2 Put on safety glasses and a pair of heavy
work. Check the main circuit panel again and leather work gloves. Use your needlenose
trip the correct breaker to disconnect power to pliers to remove any broken shards of glass
the light. If the sensor does not beep or light still attached to the lightbulb base. If you' re
up, the circuit is dead and safe to work on. working on a ladder, have a helper hold the
base of the ladder.
TOOL TIP
Needlenose pliers are handy for all sorts of

household repairs, not just wiring. They come in
many si2es. A good basic pair should have jaws
around 3" long and comfortable handles.
3 Insert the needlenose pliers into the broken

bulb base as far as they will go. Spread the han-
dles of the pliers fIrmly apart (this will cause the
jaws to press against the inside of the socket),
and turn the pliers slowly counterclockwise,
unscrewing the bulb base. If the bulb won't
budge, try wrapping the jaws of the pliers in
duct tape for extra grip.
WHAT IF .•• ?
What if the bulb still won't turn?
The base of the bulb is soft aluminum, and, if you

pull hard enough, it will begin to tear much like a
pop can. If you can't twist the bulb out, you may
be able to create a little tear in the edge of the
base. Try to fold the tear back. You'll probably rip
a piece of the bulb off. Eventually, you'll have the
whole socket out.
4 If the lamp is still stuck, use the tip of

needle-nose pliers to grab the lip of the bulb
base and bend it in slightly on one side. Grip the
bent portion firmly with the pliers, and pull the
base counter cIockwise to unscrew the bulb.
6 Once the bulb is out, wipe away any corro-

sion in the socket with a rag. If bulbs often get
stuck in a particular fixture, use a bulb socket
lubricant (available at hardware stores) to lubricate
the lightbulb base and prevent corrosion. And
5 If the broken bulb is in a hard-to-reach remember, there's no need to twist hard when
installing a bulb.
location or if you're not comfortable working
on top of a ladder, you can buy a broken bulb
extractor (available at hardware stores for less
than $10) and screw it on to the end of a broom
handle or extension pole. Simply insert the
extractor into the socket. Its rubber sides grip
the edge of the bulb base and give enough grip
to allow you to turn the base out of the socket.
WIRING' Removing Broken Lightbulbs 25
Fixing Lamp Sockets
3
Fixing an old lamp is a satisfying and surprisingly simple process. No mat-

ter what a lamp looks like on the outside, they almost always have the
same electrical components.
WHEN A LAMP STOPS WORKING, IT'S OFTEN CAUSED BY A BAD LlGHTBULB
SOC K E TUN IT - that's the piece containing the switch or pull chain that holds the lightbulb.
No need to throw the lamp away: for a few dollars, you can replace the socket and restore the
lamp to like new. Replacing a socket is easy, and most hardware stores and home centers sell
a variety of replacement sockets.

LAM P SOCKETS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Lamp sockets and switches are usually interchangeable-choose whatever type

you want. Included here from top left: twist knob, remote switch, pull chain,
push lever.
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED

QUICK FIX
• Stripping a nd connecting wire s
(p a ge s 14 a nd 15)
Sometimes, you'll get lucky and you can fix the faulty socket very easily. With the
lamp unplugged and its bulb and shade removed, use a small flat screwdriver to • Testing for cont inuit y (p age 17)
pry up the small metal tab on the base
of the socket. The tab should be angled
slightly upward, not pressed flat in the
socket. If the tab doesn't touch the DIFFICULTY LEVEL
base of the bulb, electricity will not
flow though the bulb. Prying it up may
restore the current flow. Replace the
bulb and test the lamp.
MODERATE
This job takes 30 to 60 minutes.
WIRING· Fixing Lamp Sockets 27

HOW TO FIX A LAMP SOCKET
1 With the lamp unplugged, the shade off,

and the bulb out, you can remove the socket.
Squeeze the outer shell of the socket just above
the base and pull the shell out of the base (the
shell is often marked "Press" at some point
along its perimeter. Press there and then pull).
2 Under the outer shell, you' ll find a card-

board insulating sleeve. Pull this off and you'll
reveal the socket attached to the end of the cord.
WHAT IF ... ?
3 With the shell and insulation set aside, pull the
socket away from the lamp (it will still be connected
to the cord). Look at the two screws on the sides of
the socket. One half of the cord should be connect-
W hat if my lamp is old and the shell is held
in place by screws?
Some older lamps may have an outer shell held

ed securely to each. If the screws are loose or if
together with small screws. Simply undo the
either of the wires is unattached, you've found the
screws, remove the outer shell, and proceed as
problem. Reconnect the ends of the cord and tight-
described here.
en the screws. But if the connections seem sound,
then you'll need to continue by unscrewing the two
screws to disconnect the socket.
4 To rule out a bad cord as the cause of the
problem, attach the clip of your continuity tester
to one prong of the lamp's plug; then touch the
probe first to one of the bare wires and then to
the other. Do the same test for the other prong.
The tester should light up once for each prong. 5 Attach the ribbed half of the wire to the
If the tester never lights or lights on both wires for silver screw terminal on the new socket. Attach
the same prong, you'll need to replace the cord. the other wire to the brass-colored screw termi-
If it lights up once for each prong, the socket is nal. If the stripped ends of the cord are frayed or
the problem. blackened, cut them off with your combination
tool and strip away 3/4 " of insulation to reveal
clean wire.
HERE'S HOW
Here's how to buy a replacement socket. First,

make sure it accepts the same size bulb (you'll
be able to see this by looking) . Next, if your old
socket has a twist-, push-, or pull-chain-style
switch, find a replacement that has the same
style. (If the socket doesn't have a switch, you'll
need to find a socket without one.) Finally, make
sure it has the same watt rating as the old sock-
et. Somewhere on the inside or outside of the
6 Set the socket on the base of the lamp. Make

socket, you' ll find a numbe r (between 20 and
120) followed by a W. This is the watt rating.
sure the switch isn't blocked by the "h arp"- the
part that holds the shade on some lamps. Slide the
cardboard insulating sleeve over the socket, so the
sleeve's notch aligns with the switch. Now slide
the outer sleeve over the socket, aligning the
notch with the switch. It should snap into the base
securely. Screw in a lightbulb, plug the lamp in,
and test it.
W I RING' Fi xi n g L a mp So cke t s 29
Fixing Doorbells
4
A wireless kit is a quick and easy way to replace a failed doorbell system. The
kit consists of a battery-powered doorbell button that sends a wireless signal to
a plug-in chime unit somewhere in the house. Some models come with two but-
ton units, one for the front door and one for the back.
WHAT DO YOU DO IF YOUR DOORBELL DOESN'T CHIME? The repair maybe as

simple as repairing loose wires or replacing a $2 button. The most common causes of
doorball malfunction-loose wiring and worn· out buttons-are the easiest to fix,
requiring only a screwdriver.
If the problem is with the wiring itself or the chime unit, it's generally simpler and
cheaper to replace the system with a wireless doorbell kit, which take only minutes to
install and cost very little.

DOORBELLS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Low·voltage Screwdrivers
wires
Replacement
doorbell
button
Switch Wireless
doorbell
kit
Transformer
Repairing or replacing a doorbell is a simple project that often doesn't

even require you to shut off the power. Doorbells are powered by a
transformer that reduces household current to 24 volts or less. This
low-voltage current goes from the transformer to the switch by the
door and on to a chime unit. When you press the doorbell button, it
completes a low-voltage pathway and causes the plunger to strike a
musical tuning bar. To distinguish between the front and back door signals,
one of the doorbell switch-and-plunger pairs strikes two tuning bars in
succession, creating the characteristic "ding-dong" sound. The other SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
switch and plunger strikes only one tuning bar.

• Turning off the power (page 12)
• Testing for power (page 13 )

HERE'S HOW • Making wire connections (page 14)
Rarely, it may be a loose wire connec-

tion on the doorbell chime unit that
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
causes the problem. Remove the
cover on the chime unit, look for
loose wires, and tighten them with a
screwdriver. More often, though, the
problem will be with the push-button
switch, or with a chime unit that has
EASY MODERATE
simply reached the end of its life.
Takes about 1 hour or less.
WIRING - Fi x ing Doo r b e lls 31

HOW TO FIX A ｄｏｒｂｅｌｾ｟＠
1 Begin by testing the button to make sure it

works. Doorbell buttons are commonly the cul-
prit. Use a screwdriver to remove the two screws 2 Carefully pull the switch away from the wall.
that secure the doorbell cover to the house. Check the two wire connections on the back of
the switch. If the wires are loose, reconnect them
to the screws on the back of the button. Test the
doorbell by pressing the button. Check the two
wire connections on the back of the switch. If the
wires are loose, reconnect them to the screws on
the back of the button. Test the doorbell by press-
ing the button.
3 If the doorbell still doesn't work, loosen the

screws on the back of the doorbell, remove the
wires, and touch their bare copper ends together. 4 To replace the switch, simply buy a replace-
If the bell sounds, the problem is a faulty button ment that has the mounting holes in the same loca-
you'll need to replace (go to step 4). If the bell tion as the old one. Wrap each of the wires around
doesn't sound, the problem is elsewhere in the one of the screws on the back of the switch and
system (go to step 5). If you're replacing the switch, tighten the screws. Position the button over the
disconnect the wires and tape them to the wall to mounting holes and attach the new button to the
keep them from falling inside and getting lost. wall with a screwdriver.

\\\
5 If the bell didn't ring, check the transformer,
which is probably located in the basement or
utility room near your main service panel.
Check the two wires connected to the surface of
the transformer, and reconnect them if they're 6 If nothing else has worked, now it's time to
loose. Test the doorbell by pressing the button. install a new wireless doorbell kit. First, plug in
If the doorbell still doesn't sound, go to step 6. the chime unit to a centrally located receptacle in
your house. Disconnect the doorbell switch by
your door, and clip off the wires as close to the
wall as possible, using lineman's pliers.
8 Mount the button to the door frame where

you removed the old doorbell. You may have to
7 Install the battery into the battery compart- drill two new holes before securing the new but-
ment of the doorbell button. Go outside your ton to the wall with screws. Some doorbells come
front door and press the button to make sure the with double-sided tape that can be used to secure
chime rings. If not, you may need to move the the button to the wall or to door molding. Push
indoor receiver to a receptacle closer to the door. the doorbell button to make sure it works.
WIRING· Fixing Doorbells 33

Fixing Pull-Chain Switches
5
The pull-chain switch is actually a separate piece of the fixture. It's held in
place with a retaining nut and connected to circuit wires with two wire leads.
C HAN C E 5 ARE YOU' V EGO TAL I G H T F I X T U R E WITH A P U L L· C H A I N somewhere in

your house-in a closet, attic crawl space, or maybe even your bathrom vanity. And, chances
are, if you use it enough, you will eventually pull a little too hard and the switch will fail.
Fortunately, you can easily replace a pull-chain switch, generally for only a dollar or two.
This is the first project where you actually touch circuit wires, so make sure you read the
information on shutting off power and testing for current, found at the beginning of
this book.

PULL CHAINS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Needlenose pliers
Integrated
pull-chain
switch
ｾ｟ｉｩｮＮｲＧＢＭ
"' .... (".
_
Voltage sensor
On some utility light fixtures, the pull-chain switch is part of the lightbulb sock-
et. On these fixtures, you'll need to replace the entire socket/switch unit (inset).
WHAT IF ___ ?
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
f you have a light fixuture

Ior lamp with a push-button
switch, replacing the switch is
• Turning off the power (page 12 )
• Testing for power (page 13)
exactly the same as for a • Making wire connections (page 14)

pull-chain switch.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
Just buy a replacement switch
that matches the old switch,
and replace it using the same
technique described on the
following pages.
MODERATE
This project takes less than 1 hour_
WIRING - Fixing Pull·Chain Switches 35

HOW TO REPLACE A PULL-CHAIN SWITCH
1 First, make sure that the switch is broken,

not just the chain. If you find a short bit of
chain sticking out of the fixture, pull on it to see
if the light turns on and off. If so, you can buy
and attach a new length of pull chain. If there's
no chain left or if the switch doesn't work when
you pull the remaining chain, go ahead and
2 First, turn off the power to the fixture. Now,
remove the globe and lightbulb, and loosen the
replace the switch.
mounting screws that hold the fixture to the
electrical box. Lower the fixture away from the
ceiling.
3 Test for current by holding your voltage

sensor within )1," of the circuit wires. The black
wires should cause the sensor to beep if power
is present. Check all the wires for power in case
the light was wired improperly. If the sensor
beeps or lights up, then the circuit is still live 4 Hold the fixture steady with one hand and
and is not safe to work. Check the main circuit turn the knurled retaining nut at the base of the
panel again and trip the correct breaker to dis- pull chain. You should be able to turn it with your
connect power to the fixture. If the sensor does fmgers. If it sticks, use needlenose pliers to turn it.
not beep or light up, the wires are dead and safe Once the retaining nut is off, pull the switch out
to work on. of the fixture.
6 If the switch is part of the ftxture itself, snip
5 Remove the two wire leads coming from off its connection, using a combination tool.
You'll connect the new switch to the wire you've
the switch from the wires they are attached to
by unscrewing the wire connectors. On most just snipped, so strip about %" of insulation off
fixtures, one of the switch's leads will be con- that wire.
nected to a circuit wire, the other lead to the
light fixture itself.
8 Reattach the fixture to the ceiling by holding

it over the electrical box in the ceiling so that the
mounting holes in the fixture line up with the
7 Attach the wire leads on the new switch to screw holes in the box. Make sure all the wires are
the disconnected wires, using wire connectors. in the box and not pinched between the ceiling
Then, insert the threaded portion of the switch and the fixture. Insert the mounting screws and
through the hole. Slip the retaining nut over the tighten them down with a screwdriver. Now you
pull chain and thread it on to the switch until it can replace the bulbs, restore the power, and test
is snug. the fixture.
WIRING' Fixing Pull-Chain Switches 37
Installing
Programmable Thermostats
6
Programmable thermostats come in many varieties, but all of them will help
save on energy costs. Most models have instructions for programming
printed on the access plate.
TRADITIONAL FURNACE THERMOSTATS ARE LOW·VOLTAGE MODELS THAT DO A

simple, but necessary, job. They sense changes in the house air temperature and when it's too
low, the thermostat turns on the heat and when it's too high, the thermostat turns off the heat.
For many years this was all we needed to make our homes comfortable and no one gave much
thought to improving this performance. Then, fuel shortages and high energy costs made
everyone interested in lowering the heating fuel bill.
One innovation that has advanced this effort is the programmable thermostat. This provided
more control over furnaces and, as a result, reduced energy consumption. If everyone in the
house is gone during the day, there's no reason to keep the heat at 68 or 70 degrees or more.
And when everyone goes to sleep at night, these thermostats turn down the heat automatical·
ly and turn it back on before anyone gets up. Different models that offer different levels of con·
trol are available. Generally, the more capability a unit has, the more it costs. While there is
variety in what the units can do, most are easy to install, as shown here.

THERMOSTATS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
PROGRAMMABLE THERMOSTATS
rogrammable thermostats contain sophisticated circuitry that allows you

P to set the heating and cooling systems in your house to adjust automati-
cally at set times of day_ Replacing a manual thermostat with a programmable
model is a relatively simple job that can have big payback on heating and
cooling energy savings.
Pencil
b = 1
,,- ::.,-
J r: I ., I .:
"
OJ
T- - '":
• 4"; ｾ＠ \
lion('}wcll
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED

CHECK BEFORE YOU BUY
• Reading package directions
hen buying a new thermostat, make sure the new unit is compatible with
W your heating/air conditioning system. For reference, bring the brand names
and model numbers of the old thermostat, the furnace, and the central air condi-
• Making wire connections (page 14)
tioning unit to the store and provide the information to the sales assistant.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
TERMS YOU'LL NEED TO KNOW
LOW-VOLTAGE WIRES-Electrical wires that carry lower voltage, usually 12

volts, than the standard household current, which is 120 volts. Often used for
thermostats, doorbells, and outdoor lighting. Allow 1 to 2 hours for this project.
WIRING· Installing Programmable Thermostats 39

HOW TO INSTALL A PROGRAMMABLE IHERMOSTAT
1 Turn off the power to the furnace at the 2 The body of the thermostat is held to a wall
main service panel. Then, remove the thermostat plate with screws. Remove these screws and pull the
cover. body away from the wall plate. Set the body aside.
3 The low-voltage wires that power the ther- 4 Once all the wires are labeled and removed
mostat are held by screw terminals to the mount- from the mounting plate, tape the cable that holds
ing plate. Do not remove the wires until you label these wires to the wall to keep it from falling back
them with tape, according to the letter printed on into the wall. Then unscrew the mounting plate
the terminal to which each wire is attached. and set it aside (see sidebar, next page).

rH'ffMfe.ZI
""-
. . . . . 1tU: ,.sAl30\f«
5 Position the new therm ostat base on the wall 6 Check the m anufacturer's instructions to estab-
and guide the wires th rough the central opening. lish the correct terminal for each low-voltage wire.
Screw the base to the wall. Then connect the wires to these terminals, making
sure each screw is secure.
MERCURY THERMOSTATS
lder model thermostats (and even a few

O still being made today) often contained
one or more small vials of mercury totaling
3 to 4 grams in weight. Because mercury is
a highly toxic metal that can cause nerve
damage in humans, along with other environ-
mental problems, DO NOT dispose of an old
mercury thermometer with your household
waste. Instead, bring it to a hazardous waste
disposal site, or a mercury recycling site if
your area has one (check with your local solid
waste disposal agency). The best way to
determine if you old thermostat contains
mercury is simply to remove the cover and
7 These thermostats require batteries to store look for the small glass vials or ampules
the programs so they won't disappear if the electric containing the silver mercury substance.
power goes out in a storm. Make sure to install If you are unsure, it is always better to be
these batteries before you snap the thermostat safe and keep the device in question out of
cover in place. Then program the new unit to fit the normal waste stream.
your needs and turn on the power to the fu rnace.
W IR ING· In sta ll i ng Prog ra mm a bl e Th er mo st a t s 41

Adding Wireless Light Switches
7
Wireless switch kits are a simple and inexpensive way to add a second
switch to an existing fixture.
SOMETIMES A LIGHT SWITCH IS JUST IN THE WRONG PLACE, or it would be more

convenient to have two switches controlling a single fixture. Adding a second switch the con-
ventional way generally requires hours of work and big holes in walls. (Electricians call this
a "three-way" switch installation.) Fortunately, wireless switch kits are available to perform
basically the same function for a fraction of the cost and effort. There is a bit of real wiring
involved here, but it's not nearly as complicated as the traditional method of adding a three-
way switch installation.
The kits work by replacing a conventional switch with a unit that has a built-in radio-
frequency receiver that will "read" a remote device mounted within a 50 ft. radius. The kits
come with a remote, battery-powered switch (it looks like a standard light switch) that you
can attach to a wall with double-sided tape.
Two other similar types of wireless switch kits are also available. One allows you to control
a plugged-in lamp or appliance with a remote light switch. The second type allows you to
control a conventional light fixture remotely, but instead of replacing the switch, the receiv-
er screws in below the lightbulb. This is particularly useful if you want to control a pull-chain
light from a wall switch.
WIRELESS SWITCHES 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Wireless switch kit
Phillips
screwdriver
Wireless wall
switch kit
Wireless
plug-in switch
Wire
connectors
Wireless kits are available to let you switch lights on and off remotely in a variety
Combination tool
of ways, at the switch, at the plug, or at the bulb socket.
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED

The remote switch is a
wireless transmitter that
requires a battery. The
transmitter switch attaches DIFFICULTY LEVEL
to the wall with adhesive

tape or velcro strips.
HARD
This is real wiring, but you should be

able to finish in about 1 hour.
WIRING' Adding Wireless Light Switches 43

HOW TO REMOVE A WALL SWITCH
1 To remove the old switch, first shut off the 2 Use a voltage sensor to make sure the wires
power to the switch. Remove the decorative cover- are dead. Hold your voltage sensor's probe within
plate from the switch by unscrewing the two 1;2" of the wires on either side of the switch. If
screws that hold the plate to the switch box. Set the sensor beeps or lights up, then the switch is
the screws and the plate aside. With the cover- still live, and you'll need to trip the correct break-
plate off, you will be able to see the switch and the er to disconnect power to the switch. If the sensor
electrical box it is attached to. does not beep or light up, the circuit is dead and
you're safe to continue.
3 Remove the switch from the box by unscrew- 4 Remove the switch completely by disconnect-
ing the two long screws that hold the switch to the ing the wires. In many cases, there will also be two
box at the top and the bottom. Once the screws white wires connected with a wire connector in the
are out, hold the top and bottom of the switch, box. You won't have to deal with these in your
and carefully pull the switch away from the box. installation.
HOW TO INSTALL A WIRELESS WALL SWITCH _ __
1 To install the receiver switch, you'll need to deter-

mine which wire carries current from the service
panel. Bend both the wires so they are as far apart as
possible. Turn the power back on temporarily. Without
touching either wire, pass your voltage sensor over
both . One should make your sensor beep and light up
and the other won't. The one that trips your sensor
carries current. Turn off the power and label that wire
with a piece of tape.
3 Once the wires are firmly connected, you

can attach the switch to the box. Tuck the new
switch and wires neatly back into the box. Then
drive the two long screws that are attached to the
new switch into the two holes in the electrical box.
2 Identify the wire lead on the receiver switch

marked "line" and attach it to the circuit wire you
marked with tape, using a wire connector.
Connect the other wire lead on the switch to the
remaining circuit wire in the same way.
WIRING· Adding Wireless Light Switches 45
HOW TO INSTALL A WIRELESS WALL SWITCH (CONTINUED)
4 Reattach the coverplate. Then, turn the

5 Now you can install the transmitter switch.
Install the 9-volt battery in the transmitter switch.
power back on at the main panel and test the Remove the backing from the double-sided tape
switch for operation. You should be able to turn on the back of the switch and place the switch on
the light on and off as normal. a wall within 50 ft. of the receiver switch.
6 Test the operation of both

switches. Each switch should success-
fully turn the light fIxture on and off.
You've just successfully created a
three-way switch installation, without
running any new wires.

VARIATION: WIRELESS LAMP SWITCH
I I)
The unit has a receptacle on its face. Plug a

You can also purchase wireless switch kits lamp or any other plug-in device into the unit
that control plug-in fixtures. Plug the receiver (this is an especially handy way to control
unit into any receptacle. Christmas lights).
VARIATION: WIRELESS SWITCH FOR A CEILING FIXUTURE
A third type of wireless switch uses a trans-

mitter that screws into the bulb socket of the
light fixture. If you need to control a light with a
pull-chain switch or if you don't want to replace
a wall switch as shown above, this is the best
choice. Remove the lightbulb and thread the
receiver into the bulb socket. Screw the lightbulb into the receiver socket.
WIRING· Adding Wireless Light Switches 47

Replacing Bad Receptacles
8
Since receptacles don't have moving parts, they don't wear out quickly,
but they don't last forever. If a receptacle won't hold a plug or if it's hot
to the touch or sparks when you pull a plug, it needs some attention and
possibly replacement. If you have a GFCI receptacle (inset) see pages 58
to 63 to replace it.
THE THING YOU'VE PROBABLY CALLED AN "OUTLET" IS MORE PROPERLY KNOWN
AS AN E LE CT I CA L "R EC E PTAC L E." A receptacle that gets a lot of use will eventually wear
out- you'll know this has happened if appliance plugs feel loose in the receptacle, or if a
lamp flickers when the plug is jiggled. Another common problem is wires that work loose,
causing the receptacle to stop working. This project will show you how to check the wire
connections, then replace the receptacle if it's bad.

RECEPTACLES 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Receptacle
(replacement)
Connecting tab
ｉＭｾＢＭＧ＠ .
Silver (neutral) "-" I '
screw terminals Brass (hot)
/ <.'"0'" terminals
,
Green (grounding)
screw terminal
'.
Needlenose
pliers
Combination tool
Receptacles have five screws for connecting wires: two silver, two brass SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
colored, and one green. Some installations don't use all of these screws.
Disconnecting and connecting a switch is only a matter of connecting the
right wires to the right screws.
TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW

DIFFICULTY LEVEL
MOUNTING STRAp-the metal piece that holds the plastic body of the
receptacle to the electrical box.
SCREW TERMINALS-the silver and brass-colored screws used to connect

the lamp wire to the socket.
MODERATE
This project takes about 1 hour.
WIRING· Replacing Bad Receptacles 49

HOW TO FIX A BAD RECEPTACLE
2 Use a voltage sensor to make sure that the cir-

cuit is dead. Hold your voltage sensor's probe
within ｾＢ＠ of the wires on either side of the recep-
1 Shut off the power to the switch at the main tacle. If the sensor beeps or lights up, then the
receptacle is still live, and you'll need to trip the
service panel. Remove the decorative coverplate
from the receptacle. Set the screw and the plate correct breaker to disconnect power to the recep-
aside. With the coverplate off, you will be able to tacle. If the sensor does not beep or light up, the
see the receptacle and the electrical box it is receptacle is dead and you're safe to continue.
attached to.
4 Inspect the screws where the wires connect to

3 Remove the receptacle from the box by the switch. They should be tight and the connections
unscrewing the two long screws that hold the should be clean and free of any scorch marks. If the
switch to the box at the top and the bottom. Once connections were good, the problem is likely with the
the screws are out, carefully pull the receptacle receptacle itself. If one of the wires is loose or if the
away from the box. Depending on how your connections are scorched, the problem is probably a
receptacle has been wired, it may be connected to loose screw causing a short circuit. You can follow
two colored wires and a bare grounding wire, or the directions below to reattach the old switch or
four colored wires and a bare wire. you can install a new one to be on the safe side.
5 Loosen the screw terminals and remove the 6 Use needlenose pliers to bend the stripped
circuit wires. Inspect the wires, and if they're dam-
aged, clip them off and strip about %" of bare portions in small, clockwise hooks. Now you can
wire, using a combination tool. Check the con- connect the wires to the receptacle. Take one of
necting tabs on the sides of the receptacle. If they the black wires and wrap the end of the wire
have been snapped off, you 'll need to also do this around one of the two brass-colored screws on
on the new receptacle, using needlenose pliers. the side of the switch. Tighten the screw so it's
snug. If there is a second black wire, wrap it
around the other brass-colored screw in the
same way.
8 Once the connections are made, gently tuck

7 Now take one of the white wires and wrap the wires and the receptacle in to the box so the
the end of the wire around one of the silver holes at top and bottom of the receptacle align
screws. Tighten the screw so it's snug. Do the with the holes in the box. Use a screwdriver to
same for the second white wire if there is one. drive the two long mounting screws that hold the
Connect the copper wire to the green-colored receptacle to the box. Replace the cover plate.
screw on the bottom of the receptacle. Restore the power and test your receptacle.
WIRING' Replacing Bad Receptacles 51
Childproofing Receptacles
9
\\\\\\\\\\
Standard receptacles present a real shock hazard to small children.

Fortunately, there are many ways you can make receptacles safer without
making them less convenient.
THOUSANDS OF CHILDREN ARE SHOCKED EVERY YEAR when they insert foreign
objects in receptacles. Plug-in safety caps are an effective solution, but they make receptacles
less convenient. Installing a tamper-resistant receptacle is an easy variation of replacing a bad
receptacle (pages 54 to 55). And there are some other simple solutions that will allow you to
childproof receptacles in just a few minutes.

CHILDPROOFING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
• I •I • •I
I •
Safety coverplate
Combination tool
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED

Safety coverplates (Al are designed so plugs need to be twisted before they
can be fully inserted. Plug covers (8l replace standard coverplates and allow DIFFICULTY LEVEL
you to plug in lamps or other devices and then cover the plugs, preventing
curious fingers from removing the plugs. Tamper-resistant receptacles (el
feature spring-loaded shutters that remain closed unless the two prongs of a
plug enter the slots simultaneously; they won't open for a single pointed
EASY MODERATE
object, like a screwdriver or key. A very easy solution is plug-in inserts, which
effectively block the receptacle slots completely. This project will take about 1 hour.
WIRING· Childproofing Receptacles 53

INSTALLING A TAMPER-RESISTANT RECEPTACLE __
2 Use a voltage sensor to double-check that

1 Shut the power to the switch off. Remove the circuit is dead. Hold your voltage sensor's
the decorative coverplate from the receptacle by probe within \12" of the wires on either side of
unscrewing the screw that holds the plate to the the receptacle. If the sensor beeps or lights up,
electrical box. Set the screw and the plate aside. then the receptacle is still live, and you'll need to
trip the correct breaker to disconnect power to the
receptacle. If the sensor does not beep or light up,
the receptacle is dead and you can proceed safely.
3 Remove the receptacle from the box by

unscrewing the two long screws that hold the
switch to the box, one at the top and another
at the bottom. Once the screws are out,
gently pull the receptacle away from the box.
Depending on how your receptacle has been
4 Remove the receptacle completely by unscrew-
ing the screws that hold the wires. Disconnect each
wired, there may be two colored wires and a wire by ruming the screws on the sides of the
bare wire or four colored wires and a bare wire. receptacle just enough to free the wires.

6 Now take one of the white wires and wrap
the end of the w ire around one of the silver
screws. Tighten the screw so it's snug. Do the
same for the second white wire, if there is one.
Connect the copper wire to the green-colored
5 Clip off the stripped ends of the wires and screw on the receptacle.
use your combination tool to strip away about 3/4"
of insulation. Then use your needlenose pliers to
bend the stripped portions in small, clockwise
hooks. Take one of the black wires and wrap the
end of the wire around one of the rwo brass-
colored screws on the side of the switch. Tighten
the screw so it's snug. If there is a second black
wire, wrap it around the other brass screw in the
same way.
WHAT IF ... ?
hat if I want a tamper-re sistant GFCI

W receptacle?
No proble m. GFCls are available with the same
shutter mechanism. Follow project #10 on page
58 to install one.

the wires and the receptacle in to the box so the
holes at top and bottom of the receptacle align
with the holes in the box. Use a screwdriver to
drive the rwo long mounting screws that hold the
receptacle to the box. Replace the coverplate.
Restore the power and test your receptacle.
WIRING · Childpro o f i ng Rece pt ac l es 55
INSTALLING SAFETY COVERPLATES
1 You can get much of the protection of a tam-

perproof outlet with a safety coverplate. Adding 2 Hold the safety coverplate over the receptacle.
one takes only minutes and requires no contact Use a small screwdriver to tighten the screws.
with wiring. Remove the old coverplate from the
receptacle by unscrewing the screw that holds the
plate to the electrical box.
SAFETY TIP
ush-in slot covers cost just pennies, and can

P be very effective at keeping kids from pok-
ing objects into electrical receptacles. Buy several
packages, and use them to plug any receptacle
that your child might be tempted to play with.
3 To plug a device in, push the slider aside and

insert the plug. The shutters automatically snap
over the slots when nothing is plugged in.

INSTALLING A PLUG COVER
1 Plug covers are designed to replace coverplates

on receptacles where devices are plugged in more
or less permanently to prevent children from
unplugging them. After removing the old cover-
2 Plug in your lamp or other device and snap
the plug cover into the new base plate. Cords
plate, hold the plug cover's base plate over the should fit through the slots in the plug cover.
receptacle and screw it in with a small screwdriver.
SAFETY TIP
ny receptacle is made safer by installing it " upside

A down" with the rounded grounding slot at the top.
Three-prong receptacles are almost always installed with
the round third prong facing down, but some experts rec-
ommend wiring receptacles with the third prong on top.
This is because the third prong is the grounding prong and
doesn't carry any current under normal operation. In theo-
ry, if someth ing were to fall on a partially inserted plug, it
would hit the harmless grounding prong and not the cur-
rent-carrying slot prongs. Either way, you're wiring it right,
but upside down may be slightly safer.
WIRING· Childproof i ng Rece pt ac l es 57

Installing GFCI Receptacles
10
GFCI receptacles are an important protection against shocks. They work

just like a normal receptacle, but they have special circuitry that helps pre-
vent shocks. They're required by building code in all wet locations but can
help improve safety anywhere.
A G RO U N D- FAU L T CI RCU IT-I NTERRU PTER R ECE PTACLE (called a GFCI by pros) works
just like a standard receptacle with an added feature. In the event of a short, the receptacle
shuts off-"trips"-in a tiny fraction of a second. This will protect you from a dangerous
shock, and this is why building codes require GFCIs in wet locations like bathrooms,
kitchens, and garages.
If you need to replace a faulty receptacle in a kitchen, bathroom, or garage, replace it with a
GFCI. Even if your existing receptacles work fine , you can add a measure of safety (and prac-
tice your wiring skills) by installing GFCIs. In a child's bedroom, for example, it's a good idea
to install a GFCI.
GFCI101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
I
• l-
I
I
II-
•
Wiring a GFCI isn't much different from wiring a standard receptacle . The main
difference is that, in this installation, you'll only use one pair of the four screws,
the ones labeled "line." If there were only two colored wires attached to the old
receptacle, the new GFCI is attached in the same way (left photo). But if you
have more than one of each color of wire connected to the old receptacle, you'll
need to use a technique called pigtailing to connect the GFCI (shown in the
image at right). Don't worry; it's easy and you'll see how on the next page.
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
• Turning off th e p ow er (p a ge 12)

• Te sting for po wer (page 13)
• Making wire conn e ction s (page 14)
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
LOAD-In this installation, you're ignoring the screws labeled "load" and using
only the ones labeled "line." The load screws literally put a load on the GFCI
circuitry of the receptacle by making the GFCI protect other devices on the same
circuit (so, other receptacles on the same household circuit could also trip the
HARD
GFCI in the event of a short). This sounds like a good thing and it is in certain
situation. But for your purposes, it will cause a lot of "nuisance" trips, where the This project usually takes about 1 hour.
GFCI will shut down for no apparent reason . This is why you should use the line
screws only.
WIRING' Inst a lling GFCI Receptacles 59

HOW TO REPLACE A GFCI RECEPTACLE
1 Remove the decorative coverplate from the

2 Before you remove the old receptacle, use a
voltage sensor to make sure the circuit is dead.
receptacle. With the coverplate off, you will be Hold your voltage sensor's probe within 1;2" of
able to see the receptacle and the electrical box it the wires on either side of the receptacle. If the
is attached to.
sensor beeps or lights up, then the receptacle is
still live, and you'll need to trip the correct break-
er to disconnect power to the receptacle. If the
sensor does not beep or light up, the receptacle is
dead and you can proceed safely.
3 Remove the receptacle from the box by

unscrewing the long screws at the top and the bot-
tom. Once the screws are out, gently pull the
receptacle away from the box. It won't pull away
easily, since the wires are still attached, so pull 4 Remove the receptacle completely by unscrew-
firmly. Depending on how your receptacle has ing the screws that hold the wires. Disconnect each
been wired, there may be two colored wires and wire by turning the screws on the sides of the
a bare wire or four colored wires and a bare wire. receptacle just enough to free the wires.

5 Now you can start to connect the GFCI. To begin,
count the number of wires you just disconnected from
the old receptacle. You'll either have three wires-one
each of white, black, and bare wires-or you 'll have
five- a pair of white and black wires and a single bare
wire. If you've got five wires, skip to steps 6A and B. If
you've got three wires, clip off the stripped ends of the
wires and use your combination tool to strip away
about 314" of insulation. Then use your needlenose pli-
ers to bend the stripped portions in small, clockwise
hooks and go to step 7.
6B Hold the straight end of the white

pigtail next to the ends of the two white wires
coming from the electrical box. Slide a wire
connector over the ends and twist it clockwise
6A If you've got five wires, clip off the until the connector is snug. No bare wire should
stripped ends of the wires and use your combina- be visible. Repeat this procedure for the black
tion tool to strip away about 3,4" of insulation. wires and black pigtail, and then for the two
Now cut three 3" pieces of 14-gauge wire-one bare wires and the bare pigtail.
bare, one white, and one black. Strip about 3,4"
of wire from both ends and then use your
needlenose pliers to make a clockwise hook at
one end of each. These are your pigtails.
WIRING' Installing GFCI Receptacles 61

HOW TO REPLACE A GFCI RECEPTACLE (CONTINUED)
7 Connect the white w ire (or the white pigtail; 8 Connect the black wire (or the black pigtail;
see inset photo) to the silver-colored screw see inset photo) to the copper-colored screw
labeled "line." labeled "line."
BUYING TIP
ot all GFCI receptacles are created alike.

N Make sure you buy one that's rated the
same as the receptacle you're replacing .
Many household circuits carry 15 amps of
power. Receptacles for 15-amp circuits look
like the one on the left. But a 20-amp circuit
should have receptacles rated for 20 amps,
like the one shown on the right. 20-amp
receptacles have one T-shaped slot that
accepts special T-shaped plugs on appliances
with heavy power loads, such as window air
conditioners or hot tubs.

I I
n
L .
I I
9 Connect the bare wire (or the bare pigtail; 10 Once the connections are made, gently
see inset photo) to the green grounding screw on tuck the wires and the receptacle into the box so
the bottom of the receptacle. the holes in the top and bottom of the receptacle
align with the holes in the box. Use a screwdriver
to drive the two long mounting screws that hold
the receptacle to the box. Replace the coverplate.
If your GFCI didn't come with its own cover-
plate, you' ll need to buy one with a square cutout
to fit the GFCI.
I I
n 11 Restore the power and test your receptacle. In
addition to plugging something in to the receptacle,
you need to test the two buttons on the face of the
receptacle. Press the TEST button. The receptacle
should make a clicking noise, the RESET button
should pop out, and whatever you've plugged in
should stop working. If this happens, the GFCI is
I) wired correctly and working. Push RESET and the
receptacle will work again.
WIRING' Installing GFCI Receptacles 63

Replacing Bad Light Switches
11
arm
Screw
ｾＭ terminals
Hot wire
Light switches have moving parts, so they do eventually wear out or stop
working reliably. As shown in this cutaway, most switches have a movable
metal arm that opens and closes the electrical circuit, and eventually the
metal arm loses its resilience, or snaps off. You might also want to replace
a switch just because you want a new look, or to install a dimmer (see
page 70 to see how) .
THERE ARE SEVERAL REASONS WHY YOU MIGHT NEED TO REPLACE A LIGHT SWITCH.
If the switch won't stay in position (won't stay on), if it buzzes, if it gets hot, or if a breaker
trips when you flip the switch, it might be time to replace the switch. And, of course, you
might want to replace the switch for aesthetic reasons or to gain the added functionality of a
dimmer. Dimmers not only provide greater control, but they save energy and make light-
bulbs last much longer than they would at full power.
Fortunately; swapping an old switch for a new one is a very simple project. You can easily
replace the standard light switch with another standard light switch using basic hand tools.

LIGHT SWITCHES 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Grounding screw
Common screw
Three-way switch
Four-way switch
Needlenose
pliers
Combination tool
Wall switches come in three types, and it's crucial you buy the right replace-
ment. Single-pole switches (left) are used when a light fixture is controlled
from one switch location only. Notice that it has two screw terminals on the SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
side of the switch (the screw on the metal strap used to connect the ground-
ing wire isn't counted when you talk about circuit wires). A three-way switch • Turning off the po wer (page 12)
(center) is used when a light fixture is controlled from two different wall loca-
tions. It has three screws on the body of the switch. One screw is known as
the common terminal, the others are called travelers. A four-way switch (right) • Ma king wire connections (pa ge 14)
is used when a light fixture is controlled from three or more different wall
locations. It has four screws on the body of the switch. Four-way switches are
a little rare; you may not have any of them in your house.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
When replacing a switch, remember to buy a replacement that matches the
old switch, and connect the wires in the same way they were
connected to the old switch.
EASY MODERATE
Allow about 1 hour for this project.
WIRING - Replacing Bad Light Switches 65

HOW TO REPLACE A BAD WALL SWITCH
2 Use a voltage sensor to make sure the circuit is

dead. Hold the sensor's probe within 112" of the
wires on either side of the switch. If the sensor
beeps or lights up, then the switch is still live, and
1 First shut off the power to the switch. Remove you'll need to trip the correct breaker to discon-
nect power to the switch. If the sensor does not
the decorative coverplate from the switch by
unscrewing the two screws that hold the plate to beep or light up, the circuit is dead and you're safe
the switch box. Set the screws and the plate aside. to continue.
With the coverplate off, you will be able to see the
switch and the electrical box it is attached to.
4 Inspect the screw connections. They should

be tight and free of any scorch marks. If one of
the connections is loose or scorched, the problem
3 Remove the switch from the box by unscrewing is probably a loose screw causing a short circuit.
the two long screws that hold the switch to the box, one Reattach the wires, reassemble the switch and cov-
at the top, the other at the bottom. Once the screws erplate, and see if the switch works. If this isn't
are free, gently pull the switch away from the box. the problem, continue to the next step.

5 Loosen all th e screw connections and detach
the switch from the wires. (If there are three or
four colored w ires attached to the switch instead
of just two, see the "WHAT IF" variation on the
next page.) In many cases, there will also be two
white wires connected with a wire connector in
6 Before you begin to w ire your new switch , clip
of the ends of the w ires and use your combination
the box. You won't have to deal w ith these in tool to strip away about 3,4"of insulation . Then use
your installation. Take the old switch to a hard- your needIenose pliers to bend the stripped portion
ware store or home center and purchase an iden- in a small clockwise hook.
tical replacement.
WHAT IF . .. ?
What if there is a white wire connected to the switch?
In certain installations, a switch is connected with one black

wire and one white wire. (The pros call this installation a
"switch loop. ") If the electrician did a good job, the end of
the white wire should have black tape, indicating that it
carries current. Treat it just like a black wire when you install
your new switch. If there is no tape on the end of the white
wire, wrap a bit of electrical tape on the end. The next per-
son who works on the circuit will thank you.
WIRING' Replacing Bad Light Switches 67

HOW TO REPLACE A BAD WALL SWITCH (CONTINUED)
WHAT IF ••• ?
hat if there are more than two colored wires connected to the switch? If this is the case, you're dealing
W with a three-way switch (if there are three colored wires) or a four-way switch (if there are four colored
wires). Before removing a three- or four-way switch, use masking tape to label the wires to identify which
screw terminals they are attached to.
Grounding
wires
For a three-way switch, one screw terminal is Four-way switches are a little trickier. In most
labeled "common," and is almost always darker cases, you'll be attaching the pair of wires
in color than the other two. Make sure the attached to the top two screw terminals on
wire that was attached to the common screw the old switch to the same screws on the new
terminal on the old switch is connected to the switch. Then you'll attach the other pair of
common screw terminal on the new switch. wires to the bottom pair of screws. Some man-
The other two wires aren't critical; they can ufacturers, though, use a different pairing sys-
be attached to either of the remaining tem, with one screw terminal pair on the right
screw terminals. side of the switch, the other on the left. A
good way to avoid problems is by buying a
replacement made by the same manufacturer
that made the old switch.

7 Position the switch so the ON / OFF markings read
correctly Take one of the colored circuit wires and
wrap the end of the wire clockwise around one of the
two screw terminals on the side of the switch. Tighten
the screw so it's snug. Wrap the second colored wire
around the other screw in the same way If there was a
bare copper wire connected to the old switch, connect
it to the green-colored screw on the switch in the same
way you connected the two black wires. (If you're
installing a three-way or four-way; see the information
on the opposite page.) Then connect the rest of the
wires as described above. The other two screws are
interchangeable, so it doesn't matter which of the
remaining colored wires connects to which screw.

the wires and the switch into the box so the holes
in the top and bottom of the switch align with the
holes in the box. Use a screwdriver to drive the two
8 Check to make sure the white circuit wires long mounting screws that hold the switch to the
(they're called the neutrals) are snugly connected. box. Replace the coverplate. Restore the power and
If not, then use a wire nut to join them. test your switch.
WIRING' Replacing Bad Light Switches 69

Installing Dimmers
ＱＲｾｾﾷ＠ＭｾＭｾ］ｾＭ
Dimmers not only allow you to fine-tune the amount of light in a room,
but also they save energy and extend lightbulb life. There is a wide variety
of dimmer switches available to replace almost any standard ON/OFF
switch. Whether you flip, turn, slide, or touch them, they all work the
same. The one exception is an automatic dimmer, which has an electronic
sensor that adjusts the light fixture to compensate for the changing levels
of natural light. An automatic dimmer also can be operated manually.
DIMMER SWITCHES ARE SIMPLY LIGHT SWITCHES thatallowyoutocontroltheinten-

sity of light that comes from a fixture . The control may be a dial, a touch pad, a slider, or a
faux-toggle switch, but they all function in basically the same way.
Installing a dimmer is no more difficult than installing a light switch. The only possible obsta-
cles are the size of the electrical box and the type of light in the fixture . In some older homes,
the metal box that contains the old switch may not be large enough for a dimmer. If the fix-
ture uses fluorescent lightbulbs, you will not be able to use a standard dimmer.
DIMMER SWITCHES 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Phillips
screwdriver
THREE-WAY DIMMER
Dimmer or standard switch

(replacement)
Unlike standard light switches, dimmers are connected to the household electrical
wires by short lengths of wire called "leads." Leads come pre-attached to the
Wire
dimmer. You attach them to the household wiring with wire connectors. Single- connectors
pole dimmers have two wire leads (plus a green grounding lead). Use this type
for switches where the light fixture is controlled f rom a single wall location.
Combination tool
Three-way dimmers have three black and red wire leads, and are used when a
light fixture is controlled from two wall locations.
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
• Turning off the po wer (pa ge 12)

TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW • Ma king wire connections (pa ge 14)
COMMON WIRE-On a three-way wall switch or dimmer, one of the screw termi-
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
nals or wire leads is designated as "common." Depending on where the switch is
in the circuit, the common wire receives electrical current from the power source,
or sends current to the light fixture . The common screw terminal or wire lead is
the one that is a different color from the other two screws or wire leads.
TRAVELER WIRE-On three way switches and dimmers, the t ravelers are the two
wires other than the common (see above). The traveler wires run between the two MODEDRATE
switches, providing alternative paths for electrical current.
Allow 1 to 2 hours for this job.
WIRING· Installing Dimmers 71

HOW TO INSTALL A DIMMER SWITCH
1 First shut off the power to the switch. Remove

2 Use a voltage sensor to make sure that the
the decorative coverplate from the switch by
unscrewing the two screws that hold the plate to circuit is dead. Hold your voltage sensor's probe
the switch box. Set the screws and the plate aside. w ithin Yz" of the w ires on either side of the
With the coverplate off, you will be able to see the switch . If the sensor beeps or lights up, then the
switch and the electrical box it is attached to . switch is still live, and you'll need to trip the cor-
rect breaker to disconnect power to the switch . If
the sensor does not beep or light up, the circuit is
dead and you are safe to continue.
WHAT IF ... ?
W hat if my
electrical
box seems too
small to hold the
dimmer switch?
Dimmer switches
have much big-
ger bodies than
standard switch-
es, and they are
connected with
twist wire con-
nectors rather than screw terminal connections.
3 Remove the switch from the box by This means that the electrical box might be too
small to hold the switch and the connections. If
un screwing the two long screws that hold it.
On e is at th e top and an other at th e bottom . so, don't try to force the switch into the box.
Instead, see the Here's How feature on page 75.
On ce th e screws are out, h old the top and bot-
tom of the switch , and gently pull the switch
aw ay fro m the b ox.

4 Remove the switch completely by unscrewing
the screws that hold the wires. There may be as
many as four wires connected to the switch: black,
5 Buy a dimmer suited for your replacement.
Choose a Single-pole or three-way dimmer, as
white, bare copper, and red. Disconnect each one by needed. Second, buy a dimmer rated for the maxi-
ruming the screws on the sides of the switch just mum wattage of all light fixtures the switch will
enough to free the wires. In many cases, there will serve. For example, if the standard light switch
also be two white wires connected with a wire con- you are replacing controls three recessed 60-watt
nector in the box. You won't have to deal with these lights, then the dimmer switch should be rated for
in your installation. 180 watts (60 x 3 =180).
WHAT IF ... ?
hat if you find four colored wires attached to

W your switch? Grounding wires
This is a four-way switch, a type of switch used to con-

trol light fixtures from three or more different switch
locations. A four-way switch can 't be replaced with a
dimmer, so if you run into this situation, you ' ll need to
reassemble the switch . However, four-way switch instal-
lations are always installed in conjunction with three-
way switches in the other switch locations. You will be
able to repla ce one of the three-way switches at a dif-
ferent wall location with a three-way dimmer switch.
WIRI N G' In st a lling Dimm e r s 73

HOW TO INSTALL A DIMMER SWITCH (CONTINUED)
7 Once the wires are firmly connected, you can

attach the switch to the box. Tuck the new switch
and wires neatly back into the box. Then drive the
two long screws that are attached to the new
6 The dimmer will h ave two black wires, called

switch into the two holes in the electrical box.
These screws are typically long, so an electric
leads, coming out of the dimmer's plastic body.
screwdriver is handy. Reattach the coverplate.
The leads, like the two black wires coming out of
Then, turn the power back on at the m ain panel
the wall, are interchangeable, so you can't mix
and test the switch for oper ation .
them up. Place the stripped end of one of the black
leads and the end of one of the existing black wires
into a wire connector (the dimmer will come with WHAT IF . .. ?
twist-on wire connectors). Twist the wire connec-
tor clockwise until it is tight. Hold the wires and f you're installing a three-way dimmer, attach
tug gently on the connector to ensure that it is I the wire lead identified as the common to
tight. Connect the other lead to the other wire the circu it wire you tagged as the common in
from the wall in the same way. (If you are installing step 4. Now attach the other two wire le ads
a three-way dimmer, see "WHAT IF .. .?" at right.) to the othe r two colored circuit wires, using
wire connectors. These wires, called the travel-
ers, are interchangea ble. It doesn't make any
difference which of the two remaining circuit
wires they get attached to.

HERE'S HOW: REPLACE AN ELECTRICAL BOX
Dimmer switches have larger bodies than traditional toggle switches, so you may find that the existing
electrical box is too small to comfortably hold the new dimmer switch. Shallow, 2"-deep electrical boxes
will not easily accommodate dimmer switches, especially if there are more than one set of wires inside
the electrical box. If you purchase a dimmer and can't seem to get it to fit, don't force it. Dimmers pro-
duce more heat than standard switches, and it is a potential fire hazard to crowd the electrical box. You
may be able to find a dimmer with a smaller body that will fit. Or, you can install a new, larger wall box.
Installing a new wall box is a somewhat advanced project, so you may want to hire a professional to do
this work. But if you're up to the task, you can do it yourself by following the directions below. Allow
yourself a full afternoon for this graduate school project.
Remove the old switch, following steps 1 through 5 on

pages 72 and 73. To remove the old box, identify the
location of the nails holding the electrical box to the wall studs.
Use a reciprocating saw or jigsaw equipped with a metal-
cutting blade to cut through the nails holding the box.
Bind the cable ends together and attach them to strings

so they don't fall into the wall cavity when the old box is
removed. Disconnect the cable clamps and slide the old
box out.
Feed the cable into the new

box, tighten the cable clamps, and
secure the box in the opening. The
retrofit box shown here uses bracket
arms that are inserted into the sides
of the box, then bent around the
front edges to secure the box in the
opening. Other styles of retrofit
boxes have other means of attach-
ment. Attach the new dimmer,
following steps 6 and 7 on the
preceding page.
WIRING' Installing Dimmers 75

Installing Timer Switches
13
There are two common types of timer switch. Dial-type timers are com-
monly used to control bathroom vents and outdoor lights. To turn on the
light and set the timer, simply twist the dial to the desired setting. When
the dial winds down, the light or fan goes off. Push-button timers are com·
monly used to control lights. They have three or four switches, each with a
preset time setting.
TI MER S W IT C H E S ARE S IMP LY S W IT C H EST HAT T URN 0 NOR 0 F F after a determined

amount of time. This is useful for controlling some types of exterior lights and for control-
ling bathroom vent fans . With outdoor lights, you can use a timer to turn on landscape and
security lighting at preset times. In the bathroom, the timer can vastly increase the efficacy
of your vent fan by making sure it runs long enough to completely evacuate moist air. You
can also use push·button-type timer switches to control room lights, thus assuring that no
light is left burning indefInitely
Installing a timer is no more difficult than installing a light switch. As with dimmers, the size
of the box holding the switch in the wall is a consideration. In some older homes, the metal
box that contains the old switch may not be large enough for a timer. If so, see page 75 for
information on changing the box.

TIMER SWITCHES 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Phillips
screwdriver
.. •
.;. ｾ＠
ｾＬ＠ｾｻ＠
Wire
connectors
Combination tool
Unlike standard light switches and like dimmers, most timers are connected to SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
the household electrical wires by short lengths of wire called leads. Leads come
preattached to the timer. You attach them to the household wiring with wire
connectors.

DIFFICULTY LEVEL
LEADS-The preattached black wires attached to a timer switch .
GROUNDING WIRES-The bare copper circuit wires in an electrical box.
This project takes about 1 hour.
WIRING· Installing Timer Switches 77

HOW TO INSTALL A TIMER SWITCH
2 Use a voltage sensor to make sure the cir-

cuit is dead. Hold your voltage sensor's probe
1 First shut off the power to the switch. within 1;2" of the wires on either side of the
Remove the decorative coverplate from the switch. If the sensor beeps or lights up, then the
switch by unscrewing the two screws that hold switch is still live, and you'll need to trip the
the plate to the switch box. Set the screws and correct breaker to disconnect power to the
the plate aside. switch. If the sensor does not beep or light up,
the circuit is dead and you're safe to continue.
3 Remove the switch from the box by

unscrewing the two long screws that hold the 4 Remove the switch completely by unscrewing
switch to the box at the top and at the bottom. the screws that hold the rwo wires to the switch. In
Once the screws are out, hold the top and bot- most cases, there will also be rwo white wires con-
tom of the switch, and carefully pull the switch nected with a wire connector in the box. You won't
away from the box. have to deal with these in your installation.

5 The timer will have two black wires, called
leads, coming out of the timer's plastic body. The 6 Once the wires are firmly connected, you can
leads, like the two black w ires coming out of the attach the switch to the box. Tuck the new timer
wall, are interchangeable, so you can't mix them switch and wires neatly back into the box. Then
up. Place the stripped end of one of the black drive the two long screws that are attached to the
leads and the end of one of the existing black new switch into the two holes in the electrical
wires into a wire connector (the dimmer will box. These screws are rypically long, so an electric
come with twist-on wire connectors). Twist the screwdriver is handy. Pull the dial off the timer so
wire connector clockwise until it is tight. Hold the the coverplate will fit over it. Reattach the cover-
wires and rug gently on the connector to ensure plate and push the dial back onto the timer stem.
that it is tight. Connect the other lead to the other Then, turn the power back on at the main panel
wire from the wall in the same way. and test the switch.
WHAT IF.,,?
hat if there's a light switch right next to the

W fan switch?
This is a common arrangement. You might even find

a g roup of three switches together. Behind the
single coverplate, you'll find one large electrical
box, called a "double-gang " box if there are two
switches, that contains all the connections. This
won't affect your installation except in one way:
the coverplate. The coverplate that comes with
your timer will be for a single switch . You'll need
to buy a double-gang coverplate with a cutout for
your timer (a small hole in the center) and one for
a standard light switch.
W IRING' In s t a ll i n g T i m e r S w itch es 79
Replacing Ceiling-Mounted Fixtures
14
Installing a new ceiling fixture can provide more light to a space, not to mention an
aesthetic lift. It's one of the easiest upgrades you can do.
CEILING FIXTURES DON'T HAVE ANY MOVING PARTS and their wiring is very simple,
so, other than changing bulbs, you're likely to get decades of trouble-free service from a fix-
ture. This sounds like a good thing, but it also means that the fixture probably won't fail and
give you an excuse to update a room's look with a new one. Fortunately, you can don't need
an excuse. Upgrading a fixture is easy and can make a dramatic impact on a room. You can
substantially increase the light in a room by replacing a globe-style fixture by one with sepa-
rate spot lights, or you can simply install a new fixture that matches the room's decor.

eEl LI NG FIXTURES 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Electrical box
Replacement fixture
Mounting strap
Grounding
screw 1
Mounting
screws
Combination
tool
Fi xture
base
Ladder (not shown)
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED

Tab
Brass
screw • Turning off the po w er (page 12)
terminal
Socket
(cutaway) • Making wire connections (page 14)
____ Shade
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
- ',--_----''--cc__ Filament
EASY MODERATE
No matter what a ceiling light fixture looks like on the outside, they all
attach in basically the same way. An electrical box in the ceiling is fitted This project should take you 2 hours
or less, and will be easier if you have
with a mounting strap, which holds the fixture in place. The bare wire from
a helper.
the ceiling typically connects to the mounting strap. The two wires coming
from the fixture connect to the black and white wires from the ceiling.
WIRING· Replacing Ceiling-Mounted Fixtures 81

HOW TO REPLACE A
CEILING-MOUNTED LlGHI FIXTURE
1 Begin by turning off the power to the fixture.

Remove the globe by unthreading the globe (turn-
ing it counterclockwise) or by loosening the three
screws that pinch the globe in place (the screws
usually go through a collar around the base of
the globe). Next, remove the lightbulbs from the
2 Detach the old light from the ceiling electrical
box. Most traditional fixtures use two long screws
fixture.
to secure the fIxture base to the metal electrical
box in the ceiling. Have a helper hold the fixture
with one hand so it doesn't fall, while you use a
screwdriver to remove the two screws. Gently pull
the light straight down, exposing the wiring that
powers the fixture.
HERE'S HOW
ere's how to remove the shade. Most are

H secure in the center by a decorative nut. You
can probably unscrew it by hand (hold on to the
shade or have a helper support it). If it's stuck.
try a pliers.
3 Before you touch the wires that feed the existing

light, use a voltage sensor to verifY that the circuit
is now dead. With the fixture's switch in the ON
position, insert the sensor's probe into the electri-
cal box and hold the probe within \-2" of the black
wires inside. If the sensor beeps or lights up, then
the circuit is still live, and you'll need to trip the
correct breaker to disconnect power to the fixture.
If the sensor does not beep or light up, the circuit
is dead and you can proceed safely.
4 Once you have verified that the power to 5 Before you install the new fixture, check
the light is off at the main panel, remove the fix- the ends of the wires coming from the ceiling
ture by disconnecting the wires. Use your hands electrical box. They should be clean and free
to unscrew the wire connectors by turning them of nicks or scorch marks. If they're dirty or
counterclockwise. After removing the wire con- worn, clip off the stripped portion with your
nectors, pull the fixture completely away from combination tool. Then, strip away about 3,4 "
the box (you can recycle it or save it). If you of insulation from the end of each wire.
need to stop working and restore the power, first
separate the wires coming from the ceiling box
and cap them each with a wire connector.
WHAT IF .•• ?
What if there are no wire connectors?
If the fixture is small, the wires from the box

may be connected directly to the fixture . To dis-
connect them, simply loosen the screws enough
to free the wires.

HOW TO REPLACE A
CEILING-MOUNTED LIGHT FIXTURE (CONTINUED)
7 If the box doesn't have a mounting strap,

attach one. One might be included with your new
fIxture; otherwise, you can buy one at any hard-
ware store or home center.
6 Now, take a look at the electrical box.

Most fIxtures installed in the last few decades are
attached to a mounting strap, a strip of metal
reaching from one side of the electrical box to
another and attached with two screws. Older
light fixtures were often mounted directly to the
holes in the box (inset), a less safe installation that
doesn't meet current electrical codes.
9 Set the new fIxture on top of a ladder or have

a helper support it. You'll fInd two short wires-
called leads-coming from the fixture, one white
and one black. If the ends of the leads are not
8 You will probably find a bare copper wire in already stripped, remove about 3/.!" of insulation
the box. Connect this wire to the screw near the from each wire end. Hold the white lead from the
center of the mounting strap. Wrap the wire fIxture next to the white wire from the ceiling.
clockwise around the screw and turn the screw Push the ends into a wire connector, and twist the
until it is snug. connector clockwise until it is snug.

11 Tuck the wire connections into the ceiling
box on either side of the mounting strap. Hold the
fixture over the electrical box so its two mounting
holes line up with the holes on the mounting strap.
Secure the light to the ceiling box by driving the
fixture's mounting screws through the holes in
the fixture base and into the strap. These screws
are typically quite long, so an electric screwdriver
is helpful.
10 Now connect the black wire to the black

lead with a wire connector in the same way. Give
both connections a gentle tug to make sure the
connectors are tight.
SAFETY TIP
W hen picking a new ceiling fixture, select

one with a bulb wattage rating appropri-
ate to the bulb size you'll be using. For exam-
ple, if you're installing a fixture that uses two
bulbs, and you want to use 100-watt bulbs for
maximum light, your fixture must be rated for
200 watts or more. A 120-watt fixture, on the
12 With the fixture secured to the box, you
can install the lightbulbs and shades. Each fixture
other hand, can accept two 60-watt bulbs.
is a little different; follow the manufacturer's
instructions. Once the bulbs are in, restore power
to the fixture and test it.

Replacing Hanging Light Fixtures
15
Replacing an old chandelier is a quick and easy way to make a big change
to a room's character, not to mention the quality of its light.
CHANDELIERS AND OTHER HANGING FIXTURES EXIST IN A HUGE VARIETY OF STYLES,
so chances are good that you might acquire a house with a chandelier you find less than
attractive. Of course, you might also have a chandelier stop working for some reason. Either
way, they're easy enough to replace.
A properly installed chandelier has more bracing behind it than a standard ceiling fIxture, so
don't try to replace a simple ceiling globe with a 50·pound chandelier. You' ll likely fInd a bro-
ken chandelier on your dining room table if you do.

CHANDELIERS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Combination tool
Replacement chandelier
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
• Ma king wire connection s (p a ge 14)

Chandeliers can be a maze of wires, but fortunately, to install one, you only Note: This job is easier with two people.
need to deal with the two fixture wires that snake up the chain.
HERE'S HOW
eavy chandeliers
H and ceiling fans are
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
suspended from electri-

cal boxes that are
secured between ceiling
joists with heavy-duty
braces.
Wallboard
Allow about 2 hours for this project.
WIRING· Replacing Hanging Light Fixtures 87

HOW TO INSTALL A NEW CHANDELIER
SAFETY TIP
Chandeliers are heavy, as you will learn very

quickly when you're removing or installing one.
It's better to rig up some means of temporary
support for the fixture than to rely on a helper
to hold it or-worse still-try to hold it yourself
(you will need both hands to make the connec-
tions). One solution is to position a tall steplad-
der directly below the work area so you can rest
the fixture on the top platform. And just in case
the fixture falls, remove all the bulbs and globes
before you do any of the work.
1 Remove the old light fixrure. To gain access to

the wiring connections, unfasten the retainer nut
that secures the coverplate for the electrical box.
On some chandeliers (such as the one above), the
ring that holds the support chain for the chandelier
is integral to the retainer nut, so unfastening it will
mean the fixrure is being supported only by the
electrical wires.
2 Turn off the power to the old fixrure at the

main service panel. Use a voltage sensor to verifY
that the circuit is dead. With the light switch 3 Remove the wire connectors from all the
rumed on, insert the sensor's probe into the elec- wires in the box and separate the wires. If the sup-
trical box within \12" of the wires inside. If the sen- port chain is still attached, unscrew the mounting
sor beeps or lights up, then the circuit is live and nut from the end of the threaded nipple inside the
you've shut off the wrong circuit. Shut off addi- box. Disconnect the bare copper wire from the
tional circuits until the probe confirms that you've screw near the center of the mounting strap. Pull
shut off the correct one. the old wires down through the threaded nipple.

4 Adjust the length of the support chain on the
new chandelier (if necessary) so it will hang at the
desired height when mounted. This is normally
done by disconnecting the chain from the support
5 There will be rwo insulated wires and a bare
copper ground woven in with the chain on YOut
ring on the fixture, removing the required number
new fIXture. There should be 6" to 12" of extra
of links and then reattaching the chain.
wire at the top of the chain. If the ends of these
wires aren't stripped, use your combination tool to
strip away %" of insulation.
6 Hang the new fixture from the threaded

nipple (unless the chain support nut is integral
to the coverplate retainer, as in step 1). You may
need to screw the threaded nipple farther into
the mounting plate so it does not extend past the
coverplate. Or, you may need to replace the
mounting strap and nipple with correctly sized
hardware (usually provided with the new fix- 7 Carefully tuck the wires into the electrical
ture). Make the wire connections, including box and then tighten the retainer for the cover-
attaching the bare copper wire to the grounding plate so it is snug against the ceiling. Restore
screw on the mounting strap. power and test the fixture.
WIRING' Replacing Hanging Light Fixtures 89

Installing Track Lights
16
ｾＬ＠ｾｉｄｾＭ
If you currently have a ceiling-mounted light fixture that is not meeting

your lighting needs, it's simple to replace it with a track-lighting fixture.
With track lighting you can easily change the type and number of lights,
their position on the track, and the direction they aim. These fixtures
come in many different styles, including short three-foot track systems
with just one or two lights up to 12-foot systems with five or more lights.
TRACK LIGHTING OFFERS A BEAUTIFUL AND FUNCTIONAL WAY TO INCREASE
THE AM 0 U N T 0 F L I G H T in a room or simply to update its look. A variety of ftxture and

lamp options lets you control the shape, color, and intensity of the light. Installing track light-
ing in place of an existing ceiling-mounted light fixture involves basic wiring and hand-tool
skills, but the connections are even easier to make than with traditional light fixtures . Once
installed, the system is very easy to upgrade or expand in the future.

TRACK LIGHTING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Drill & W' drill bit

(for
Power supply
connection cover
Track-lighting kit
Track systems include a lot of components, but fortunately you can buy all-
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
inclusive starter kits containing everything you need for a basic installation, as
well as a foundation for later upgrades if you wish. • Turning off power (page 12)
• Light carpentry skills
POWER SUPPLY-This little piece of hardware varies in appearance from kit to kit, DIFFICULTY LEVEL
but in all cases, it feeds power from the household wiring to the electrified path-
ways inside the track (and this powers the lights).
EASY MODERATE
This project will take about half a day.
WIRING - Installing Track Lights 91

HOW TO REMOVE A CEILING-MOUNTED LIGHT FIXTURE
1 Locate the breaker for the light circuit you're

working on and switch that breaker into the OFF 2 Remove the globe and the lightbulbs from the
position. If you have an older electrical service flJ(ture. Detach the old light from the ceiling elec-
panel, you may have glass fuses instead of break- trical box. Most fixtures use two long screws to
ers. If so, pull the fuse for that circuit. Close the secure the fixture base to the electrical box in the
cover of the breaker or fuse cabinet. ceiling. Hold the fIxture with one hand while you
use a screwdriver to remove the two screws. Gently
pull the light straight down, exposing the wiring.
3 Use a voltage sensor to verify that the circuit is 4 Remove the fIxture by disconnecting the wires.
dead. Insert the sensor's probe into the electrical Use your hands to unscrew the wire connectors by
box within \.2" of the black wires inside. If the sen- turning them counterclockwise. After removing
sor beeps or lights up, then the circuit is still live, the wire connectors, pull the flJ(ture completely
and you'll need to trip the correct breaker to dis- away from the box (you can recycle it or save it).
connect power to the fixture . If the sensor does If you need to stop working and restore the power,
not beep or light up, the circuit is dead and you fIrst separate the wires coming from the ceiling
can proceed safely box and cap them each with a wire connector.

HOW TO INSTALL TRACK LIGHTING
1 Turn off power (step 1, opposite page). Thread 2 Carefully tuck the wires back up into the ceil-
the three wires from the power supply hardware ing box and attach the mounting plate using the
through the hole in the center of the mounting screws provided with the kit. The power supply
plate. Connect the power supply wires using wire can simply hang by its wires for the time being.
connectors (the kit will come with them ). The
green wire on the power supply is connected to
the bare copper wire coming out of the electrical
box. Connect the white and black wires from the
power supply to the white wire and black wires
coming from the electrical box in the same way.
WHAT IF ... ?
hat if the track is too long? Most types of

W track can be cut to length easily with a
hacksaw. Use a saw fitted with a sharp blade
and make a straight cut.
3 Draw a reference line on the ceiling to mark

the track's path from the mounting plate to the
end of the track. If possible, position the track
directly underneath a ceiling joist so you can
screw it to the joists. Otherwise, you will need to
use toggle bolts to hold the tracks in the ceiling.
Snap the track temporarily onto the mounting
plate so it follows the reference line.
WIRING' Installing Track Lights 93

HOW TO INSTALL TRACK LIGHTING (CONTINUED)
5 Drill holes slightly larger then the thickness

of the closed toggle wings. Pinch the wings of
one toggle together and push it into the hole in
the ceiling. The wings will snap open once they
enter the cavity and hold the bolt in place. Push
4 Mark the screw hole locations on the ceiling the other toggle bolts into their holes in the same
by making a dot through each hole in the track. way. Once all the bolts for a track section are in
After you mark the screw locations, remove the their holes, fit the track end to the mounting
track and drill holes in the ceiling for the mounting plate, and then tighten all the toggle bolts.
screws. Begin by threading the bolts onto the track. Tighten the rwo screws on the mounting plate.
First, unscrew the toggle bolt from the spring-
loaded wings. Insert the toggle bolts through the
holes in the track. Hold the wing on the ceiling-
side of the track, then screw the bolt back into the
toggle wings with rwo or three rums of the bolt.
HERE'S HOW
ere's how to add another section of track.

H You can link sections of track together with
connectors (your kit may include some or you
can buy them separately, along with additional
track sections). Connector pieces will also allow
you to make 90-degree turns or T's on your
track path. The con-
nectors snap into
the end of the track 6 Now you can connect the power supply to
and are secured the track. Insert the power supply into the track
with screws. and twist the connector until it snaps securely into
place (connector installation may vary by manu-
facrurer). The connector is made so that it cannot
be snapped in the wrong way, so you'll know
when it's in correctly. Attach the white and black
wires to the screw terminals on the power supply.

/Deadend
8 Now you can fit the decorative cover over the

mounting plate. It may snap in place or be secured
with screws. This will cover up the mounting
plate completely.
7 Most kits will require you to cap the open

ends of track dead ends. Snap them onto the ends
of track pieces and secure them with screws.
10 If the light works, locate a position you

like and push down the locking tab on the side of
the fixture to secure the light in this location.
9 You can begin inserting the light heads into the Install appropriate bulbs in the light sockets,
track at this point. These should simply twist-lock according to the manufacturer's instructions.
into place. Turn on power and test the light head. Install the remaining heads.
WIRING· Installing Track Lights 95

Insta II ing
Motion-Sensing Floodlights
An exterior floodlight with a motion sensor is an effective security measure.

Make sure you keep the motion sensor adjusted so it doesn't give false alarms.
MOST HOUSES AND GARAGES HAVE FLOODLIGHTS ON THEIR EXTERIORS. You can
easily upgrade these fixtures so that they provide additional security by replacing them with
motion-sensing floodlights. Motion-sensing floods can be set up to detect motion in a specific
area- like a walkway or driveway- and then cast light into that area. And there are few
things intruders like less than the spotlight. These lights typically have timers that allow you
to control how long the light stays on and photosensors that prevent the light from coming
on during the day.

FLOODLIGHTS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Combination
Screwdriver
tool
Voltage
sensor
Floodlight with
motion sensor
A motion-sensing light fixture provides inexpensive and effective protection

against intruders. It has an infrared eye that triggers the light fixture when a
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
moving object crosses its path. Choose a light fixture with: a photo cell (A) to
prevent the light from turning on in daylight; an adjustable timer (B) to control • Turning off the power (page 12)
how long the light stays on; and range control (C) to adjust the reach of the
motion-sensor eye.
HERE'S HOW DIFFICULTY LEVEL
H ere's how to make sure no one accidentally turns off

your security lights-or any other light you don't
want turned off. Switch locks are inexpensive plastic
covers that lock a switch in the ON or OFF position. You
can find them at any hardware store or home center.
This project will take about 1 hour.
WIRING· Installing Motion·Sensing Floodlights 97

HOW TO INSTALL A MOTION-SENSING FLOODLIGHT
2 Before you touch any wires, use a voltage sen-

sor to verifY that the circuit is dead. With the light
1 Turn off power to the old fixture . To remove switch turned ON, insert the sensor's probe into
the electrical box and hold the probe within 112" of
it, unscrew the mounting screws on the part of
the wires inside to confirm that there is no voltage
the fixture attached to the wall. There will proba-
flow. Disconnect the wire connectors and remove
bly be four of them. Carefully pull the fixture
the old fixture.
away from the wall, exposing the wires. Don't
touch the wires yet.
4 If the electrical box is nonmetallic and does

not have a metal grounding clip, install a ground-
3 Examine the ends of the three wires coming ing clip or replace the box with one that does
from the box (one white, one black, and one bare have a clip and make sure the ground wire is
copper). They should be clean and free of corro- attached to it securely. Some light fixtures have a
sion. If the ends are in poor condition, clip them grounding terminal on the base. If yours has
off and then strip %" of wire insulation with a one, attach the grounding wire from the house
combination tool. directly to the terminal.

5 Now you can attach the new fIxture. Begin by 6 Next, join the black wire from the box and the
sliding a rubber or foam gasket (usually provided single black wire from the fixture with a wire con-
with the fIxture) over the wires and onto the flange nector. You may see a couple of black wires and a
of the electrical box. Set the new fIxture on top of a red wire already joined on the fIxture. You can
ladder or have a helper hold it while you make the ignore these in your installation.
wiring connections. There may be as many as three
white wires coming from the fIxture. Join all white
wires, including the feed wire from the house, using
a wire connector.
7 Neatly tuck all the wires into the box so they

are behind the gasket. Align the holes in the gas- 8 Test the fixture. You will still be able to
ket with the holes in the box, and then position turn it on and off with the light switch inside.
the fixture over the gasket so its mounting holes Flip the switch to ON and pass your hand in
are also aligned with the gasket. Press the fIxture front of the motion sensor. The light should
against the gasket and drive the four mounting come on. Adjust the motion sensor to cover
screws into the box. Install floodlight bulbs (exteri- the traffic areas and pivot the light head to
or rated) and restore power. illuminate the intended area.
WIRING· Installing Motion-Sensing Floodlights 99
Repairing Fluorescent Light Fixtures
18
Troubleshooting a fluorescent light that's flickering or won't work is a

process of testing and checking that begins with inspecting the fluorescent
tubes to make sure they're making good contact with the fixture sockets
and are in good condition.
FLUORESCENT FIXTURES ARE GREAT LIGHTING CHOICES because they save energy
and offer many different quality-of-light options, from the hue and color of the light to its
brightness. And fluorescent lamps have a much longer life than regular incandescent lamps.
But as fluorescent fixtures age, small parts begin to fail. Replacing the tubes is easy, and
replacing the ballast (a transformer-type part that distributes power to the sockets) is only
slightly more difficult. But if the fIxture is old it may make more sense to replace the entire
fixture with a newer (and probably quieter) model.

FLUORESCENT LIGHTS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Drill
Replacement
fluorescent fixture
Fluorescent fixtures come in lots of different lengths, from 6 inches to 6 feet.

They all work basically the same. The fixture consists of a diffuser and a cover-
plate and housing that contain a ballast that connects to the sockets that hold
the tubes. SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
• Turning off power (page 12)

BUYER'S TIP • Making wire connections (page 14)
Note: This may be easier with two

ere's how to buy a fluorescent tube: You'll need three pieces of information:
H the length of the tube, the end type, and the wattage. There are a couple
people.
different styles of pin configuration for the ends of tubes. The two-pin style
shown here is most common, but there are others. DIFFICULTY LEVEL
If yours looks different, take it with you to the
hardware store to find an exact match. The wattage
of the fluorescent tube will be printed somewhere
along its length. Buy a new tube with the same
watt rating. For best value, buy fluorescent tubes in
multiple tube packs, as you would with other types EASY MODERATE
of lightbulbs. Allow about 2 hours for this project.
WIRING· Repairing Fluorescent Light Fixtures 101

HOW TO REPLACE A FLUORESCENT TUBE
2 Twist the tubes to confirm that they are

seated correctly in the sockets. If they are
securely in the sockets but the light won't light,
1 If your fluorescent light is flickering or not remove the tubes by rotating them a quarter
working, check the tubes first. Start by remov- turn in each direction and pulling down.
ing the plastic diffuser that covers the light so
you can access the florescent tubes. The diffuser
normally snaps into place. Squeeze it slightly at
its sides to remove it.
4 Purchase a replacement tube (see page 101)

3 Take a look at the ends of the bulb. A little and install the new tubes by holding the tube so the
light gray coloring at the ends of a used fluores- pins are vertical. Slide the pins into the grooves in
cent bulb is normal. But if one or more of the the sockets and push up. Then, turn the tube a
tube ends is blackened, the tube should be quarter turn in each direction. Replace the diffuser
replaced. and test the fIxture.
HOW TO REPLACE A BALLAST _ .
1 Turn off the power at the main service panel,

then remove the diffuser, fluorescent tube, and 2 Disconnect the wires that lead from the bal-
coverplate. Test for power. Remove the sockets last to the sockets by pushing a small screwdriver
from the fixture housing by sliding them out, or into the release openings (as seen above) or loos-
by removing the mounting screws and lifting the ening the screw terminals. On some socket sryles
sockets out. you'll need to cut the wires to within 2" of the
socket to remove the ballast.
Old ballast
New ballast
4 Install a new ballast that has the same ratings

3 Remove the old ballast, using a ratchet
as the old ballast. Attach the ballast wires to the
socket wires and reinstall the coverplate, fluores -
wrench or screwdriver. Make sure to support the
cent tube, and diffuser. Turn on power to the light
ballast so it does not fall (a little duct tape will do
fixture at the main service panel.
the job).
HOW TO REPLACE A FLUORESCENT FIXTURE
1 If replacing the tube or ballast doesn't fix 2 Loosen the screws at each end of the metal
the problem, it's best to replace the whole light coverplate on the fixture. If there are no screws,
fIxture. Start by removing the diffuser and the you may be able to remove the cover by pinch-
tubes. Then, turn off the power to the fixture at ing its ends and pulling down. Pull the coverplate
the service panel and test with a voltage tester. free and set it aside.
BUYER'S TIP
to buy a new fluorescent fixture: Look

H
OW
for a fixture of the same length and with

the same number of tubes as the one you're
replacing. You'll also want one rated for the
same number of watts as your old one. The watt
rating will be printed somewhere on the inside
of the fixture .
3 Disconnect the fixture by unscrewing the

wire connectors inside the fixture housing.
Straighten out the three wires feeding into the
fIxture through the cable clamp and then unscrew
the cable clamp.
5 Remove the coverplate from the new fixture.
4 You can now completely remove the fixture On the bottom of the new fixture, you'll find sev-
eral knockout holes. Remove a knockout that will
by unscrewing the mounting screws. It's a good
idea to have a helper support the fIxture as you fall under the electrical box in the ceiling when
undo the screws. Move the fixture away from the the fIxture is installed (drive a screwdriver through
ceiling, pulling the three wires through the hole. the knockout to remove it). Attach a cable clamp
in the knockout hole and feed the three wires
from the ceiling box through the cable clamp as
you raise the fIxture up against the ceiling.
6 Attach the fIxture to the ceiling with screws

or toggle bolts driven up through mounting screw
holes in the top of the fIxture , and then tighten a
retaining nut around the cable clamp. Make the wire 7 Reattach the coverplate on the new fIxture,
connections (white to white, black to black, bare install the fluorescent tubes and snap in the dif-
copper ground to grounding screw on fixture). fuser. Restore power and test the fixture.
Fixing Ceiling Fans
19
Even ceiling fans that are operated only occasionally are prone to failure
or problems like excess wobble. Following the steps in this chapter will
help you diagnose and solve common ceiling fan maladies.
CEILING FANS THAT WORK PROPERLY WILL SAVE MONEY on heating and
cooling costs and add to the comfort of your home. But over time ceiling fans can
fail to work, become noisy, the blades may wobble, or the pull-chain switch may
become unreliable or just plain faulty. Before putting many hours of time and hard
labor- not to mention the expense- into a new fan installation, diagnose the old fan
to see if it can be easily repaired using these steps. Keep in mind that most con-
sumer-level ceiling fans will never be completely silent when the fan is operating-
moving air does make some noise, after all.

CEILING FANS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Masking tape
Fan switch
Voltage sensor
Needlenose
pliers
A ceiling fan is suspended from a sturdy mounting bracket and
Combination tool
the connection is concealed by a decorative canopy.
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
FAN NOT WORKING? TRY THIS FIRST:

• Turning off power (page 12)
• Testing for power (pa ge 13)
Make sure that the wall switch that controls the • Making wire connections (page 14)
ceiling fan is in the ON position. Reach up to the fan
and move the fan direction switch back and forth to
confirm that it is fully engaged in one of the two posi·
tions (clockwise blade movement for summer, counter· DIFFICULTY LEVEL
clockwise for winter). If the fan blades do not start
rotating, even though the switch feels secure in one of
direction
the two positions, go to step 2. switch
Put your hand on the switch housing to feel for vibration . If a vibration or humming
is present, the fan motor is malfunctioning and you should consider replacing the entire EASY MODERATE
unit. No hum or vibration? Proceed to the further diagnostics beginning on page 108.
Allow 2 to 4 hours, and work with a helper.
WIRING' Fixing Ceiling Fans 107

HOW TO FIX A CE ILING FAN
1 A leading cause of fan failure is loose wire

connections. To inspect these connections, first
shut off the power to the fan . Remove the fan 2 Once the canopy is lowered, you' ll see black,
blades to gain access, then remove the canopy that white, green, copper, an d possibly blue wires.
covers the ceiling box and fan m ounting bracket. Hold a voltage sensor within );," of these wires
Most canopies are secured w ith screws on the out- with the wall switch that controls the fan in the
side shell. Have a helper hold the fan while you ON position. The black and blue wires should
remove the screws so it won't fall. cause the sensor to beep if power is present.
HERE'S HOW
ne common problem with older ceiling fans is that over time or due to incorrect initial installation, the
O blades begin to wobble as they spin. If you're within earshot, the vibration from wobbling is irritating,
but it can also damage the fan and shorten its life. Wobbling has three main causes: (1) the fan blades may not
be balanced properly, (2) the fan may not be tightly secured to the ceiling fan box, or (3) one or more of the
fan blades may have become warped . Fixing any of these situations requires minimal effort and time.
Start by checking and If wobble persists, try If you still have wobble,
tightening all hardwa re used switching around two of the turn the power off at the
to attach the blades to the blades. Often, this is all it panel, remove the fan
mounting arms and the takes to get the fan back canopy, and inspect the
mounting arms to the motor. into balance. If a blade is mounting brace and the con-
Hardwa re tends to loose n damaged or warped, try to nection between the mount-
over time and this is fre- locate a replacement blade. ing pole and the fan motor.
quently the cause of wobble . Tighten any loose connec-
tions and replace the canopy.
108 THE COMPLETE PHOTO GU I DE TO HOMEOWNER BAS IC S

HERE'S HOW
ad wiring connections often are caused by

B failed wire connectors. Inspect connections
for signs of burning, corrosion, or rust. If the
inside of any wire connecto r does not look
clean and shiny,
replace it with a
new connector
of the same size.
3 When you have confirmed that there is no

power, check all the wire connections to make
certain each is tight and making good contact.
You may be able to see that a connection has
come apart and needs to be remade. But even if
you see one bad connection, check them all by
gently tugging on the wire connectors. If the
wires pull out of the wire connector or the con-
nection feels loose, unscrew the wire connector
from the wires.
5 If everything works, reinstall the canopy by

replacing the screws that were holding it in place.
4 Twist the wires back together the same way Reattach the fan blades and then restore power. If
you found them, making sure the bare wires are all connections are secure but the fan still doesn't
making good contact with each other. Secure them work, try replacing the pull chain to resolve the
with a new wire twist connector. problem (see next page).
WI RING' Fixi ng C eili n g F a n s 109
HOW TO REPLACE A PULL-CHAIN SWITCH
1 Turn off the power at the main service panel.

Use a screwdriver to remove the three to four
screws that secure the bottom cap on the fan switch 2 Test the wires by placing a voltage sensor
housing. Lower the cap to expose the wires that within )2" of the wires. If the sensor beeps or
supply power to the pull-chain switch. lights up, then the circuit is still live, and is not safe
to work. When the sensor does not beep or light
up, the circuit is dead and may be worked upon.
3 Locate the switch unit (the part that the pull

chain used to be attached to if it broke off); it's
probably made of plastic. You'll need to replace 4 Attach a small piece of tape to each wire that
the whole switch. Fan switches are connected enters the switch and write an identifying number
with from three to eight wires, depending on the on the tape. Start at one side of the switch and
number of speed settings. label the wires in the order they're attached.

BUYER'S TIP
ere's how to buy a new switch. Bring the

H old switch to the hardware store or home
center, and find an identical new switch-one
with the same number and color of wires. It
should also attach to the fan motor wires in th e
same way (slots or screw terminals or with inte-
gral wires and wire connectors) and that attach-
es to the fan in the same way. If you are unable
to locate a n identical switch, find the owners
manual for your ceiling fan and contact the man-
ufactu rer. Or, find the brand and model number
of the fan and order a switch from a ceiling fan
dealer or e lectron ics supply store .
5 Disconnect the old switch wires, in most

cases by cutting the wires off as close to the old
switch as possible. Unscrew the retaining nut that
secures the switch to the switch housing.
7 Connect the new switch using the same wiring

configuration as on the old model. To make con-
nections, first use a wire stripper to strip %" of
insulation from the ends of each of the wires com-
ing from the fan motor (the ones you cut in step
5). Attach the wires to the new switch in the same
6 Remove the switch. There may be one or rwo order and configuraion as they were attached to
screws that hold it in place or it may be secured to the old switch. Secure the new switch in the hous-
the outside of the fan with a small, knurled nut, ing and make sure all wires are rucked neatly
which you can loosen with needlenose pliers. inside. Reattach the bottom cap. Test all the fan's
Purchase an identical new switch. speeds to make sure all the connections are good.
WIRING· F ixi ng C ei l i n g F ans 111

Installing Raceway Wiring
20
Raceway wiring systems are surface-mounted networks of electrical boxes

and hollow metal tracks that allow you to expand an existing wiring circuit
without cutting into your walls.
SURFACE WIRING CAN BE USED TO EXTEND POWER FROM ANY EXISTING RECEPTACLE
to another location without cutting into walls, floors, or ceilings. If you're relying on an ugly
(not to mention dangerous) tangle of extension cords to compensate for a shortage of prop-
er receptacles, a raceway system of surface wiring may be your solution. Surface wiring uses
inconspicuous metal channels that are mounted to the walls. The channels are easily
removed and can be extended again or rerouted as your needs change.

RACEWAYS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED

The raceway receptacle box is mounted directly to the original electrical box
(usually for a receptacle) and raceway tracks are attached to it. The tracks house • Turning off power (p a ge 12 )
THNN wires that run from the raceway box to new receptacles and light switches. • Testing for power (page 13)
• Ma king wire connections (pag e 14)
• Light carpentry s kills
HERE'S HOW
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
H ere's how to determine if an electrical circuit has enough capacity for you
to add a new receptacle or light. Count the number of receptacles and
lights that are already part of the circuit. Multiply this number by 1.5 amps. The
result should not exceed the amperage of the circuit (usually 15 or 20 amps).
The 1.5 amps estimate is for everyday small appliances, lamps, and lighting. Do
not add onto a circuit if it supplies or is intended to supply power to high·draw
appliances such as a refrigerator, microwave oven, or electric heater.
Overloading a circuit is unsafe and will cause the circuit breaker to trip. It's
always a good idea to consult your local electrical inspector before you start. Allow half a day for this project.
WIRING' Installing Raceway Wiring 113

HOW TO INSTALL RACEWAY WIRING
1 Confirm that the circuit you want to expand

will support a new receptacle or light (see page
113). Mark the planned location of the new recep-
tacle or switch on the wall and mea-sure to the
nearest existing receptacle. Purchase enough race-
way to cover this distance plus about 10 percent 2 First shut off the power to the switch. Remove
extra. Buy a surface-mounted starter box, new the coverplate from the receptacle by unscrewing
receptacle box, and fittings for your project (the the screw that holds the plate to the electrical box.
raceway product packaging usually provides guid- Set the screws and the plate aside. With the cover-
ance for shopping). plate off, you will be able to see the receptacle and
the electrical box it is attached to.
3 Before you remove the old receptacle, use a 4 Remove the receptacle from the box by
voltage sensor to double-check that the circuit is unscrewing the two long screws that hold the
dead. Hold your voltage sensor's probe within switch to the box. Once the screws are out, gently
\-2" of the wires on each side of the receptacle. pull the receptacle away from the box. It won't pull
If the sensor beeps or lights up, then the recep- away easily, since the wires are still attached, so pull
tacle is still live, and you'll need to trip the correct firmly. Depending on how your receptacle has been
breaker to disconnect power to the receptacle. wired, you may find two insulated wires and a bare
If the sensor does not beep or light up, the copper wire or four insulated wires and a bare wire.
receptacle is dead and you can proceed safely. Detach these wires and set the receptacle aside.
profile
Small profile
5 Your starter box includes a box and a mount- 6 Remove a knockout from the starter box to
ing plate with a hole in its center. Pull all the wires create an opening for the raceway track, using pli-
you just disconnected through the hole, taking ers. Often, the prepunched knockouts have two
care not to scrape them on the edges of the hole. profile options- make sure the knockout you
Screw the mounting plate to the existing recepta- remove matches the profile of your track.
cle box with the included mounting screws.
8 Set the mounting bracket for an elbow con-

nector ｾＢ＠ above the baseboard (having the track
7 Hold the box portion of the starter box over run along the baseboard edge looks better than
the mounting plate on the existing receptacle. running it in a straight line out of the starter box).
Drive the mounting screws through the holes in Measure from the knockout in the starter box to
the box and into the threaded openings in the the top of the bracket and cut a piece of raceway
mounting plate. Yz" longer than this measurement.
WIRING· Installing Raceway Wiring 115
HOW TO INSTALL RACEWAY WIRING (CONTINUED)
Stud location ----+
9 At the new receptacle location, use a laser

level to transfer the height of the top of the starter
box and mark a reference line. If possible, locate
the box so at least one screw hole in the mounting
plate falls over a wall stud. Position the mounting
plate for the receptacle box up against the laser
line and secure it with screws driven through the
10 Use a stud finder to locate and mark all of
the wall framing members between the old recep-
mounting plate holes. If the plate is not located tacle and the new one. There should be a stud
over a wall stud, use wall anchors (see below left). every 16" along the wall, and the studs should be
about 1 Yz" wide.
TOOL TIP
ere's how to cut metal raceway. Secure the

H track in a vise or clamping work support
and cut with a hacksaw. Make sure the mounting
bracket and the track cover are aligned at the
end and cut through both at the same time. For
best results, use long, slow strokes and don't
11 At stud locations, use a laser level as a ref-
erence for marking a line 1.4" above the top of the
bear down too hard on the saw. baseboard. Attach mounting clips for the raceway
track at these marks.

HERE'S HOW
•
ere's how to install wall anchors. Mark
H screw locations on the wall. then drill1f4"
holes through the wall at the marks. Tap a plas-
tic wall anchor into the hole with a hammer so
the underside of
the top flange is
flush against the
surface of the
wall. When a
screw is driven
into the wall
anchor sleeve.
the sleeve will
expand in the
hole and hold the
screw securely.
13 At the starter box slide one end of the
short piece of raceway into the knockout so that
about \1;" extends into the box. Snap the raceway
into the clip below the knockout. Repeat this
same procedure at the new receptacle box. Slip a
bushing (included with installation kit) over the
ends of the tracks where they enter the box .
12 Install mounting clips \-2" or so below the 14 The elbow piece will have two parts, a
knockouts on both the starter box and the new mounting plate and a cap. Install the mounting
receptacle box. The clips should line up with the plates directly below the pieces of track entering
knockouts. the receptacle boxes.

Measuring line
Connector
ｾ＠ :
Ｌｯ［ﾷｾｩ＠
;"-;:":----
15 Now you can measure and cut the long 16 Cut black, white, and green THNN wire
piece of raceway that fits berween the rwo recep- about 2-ft. longer than the length of eacb wiring
tacles. Measure the distance berween the ends of run. Snake the end of eacb wire into the starter
the horizontal parts of the elbows, and cut a box, through the knockout, and into the vertical
length of raceway to that length. Be sure to meas- raceway Then snake the wire all the way through
ure all the way to the base of the clip, not just to the long piece of raceway so about 12" to 16" come
the tips of the connector points. out on each side.
WHAT IF ••. ?
hat if I need to go around a corner? Use corner pieces to gu ide raceway around corners. Corners are
W available for inside or outside corners a nd consist of a mounting plate and a cap piece. Inside corners
may be used at wall/ceiling junctures.
Wall meets wall Wall meets ceiling

WHAT IF .•. ?
\ A /hat if I need a piece of raceway track that's

V V longer than the longest piece available at
the hardware store (usually 5 ft.)?
You can use straight connector pieces t o join

two lengths of raceway. Much like an elbow
piece, they have a mounting plate and a cover
that snaps over the wiring .
17 Now you can snap the long piece of race-

way into the mounting clips. Line one end of the
raceway up with the end of an elbow and begin
pressing the raceway into the clips until it is snapped
into all of the clips. At the new receptacle location,
snake the ends of the wires up through the vertical
piece of raceway and into the new receptacle box.
There should be about 6" of wire coming out at
each box.
18 Finish the raceway by snapping the

elbow cover pieces into place over the mounting
plates, one at the starter box and another at the 19 Now you can wire the receptacles. Begin
new receptacle location. You may need to rap the at the new receptacle location. Take the black
plate with a rubber mallet to get enough force to wire and wrap the end of the wire around the
snap it on. Make sure all of the wire fits com- bottom gold screw on the side of the receptacle.
pletely within the cover pieces. Tighten the screw so it's snug.
W IR ING' Ins t allin g Raceway Wiri n g 119

20 Now take the white wire and wrap the 21 Once the connections are made, gently
end of the wire around the silver screw opposite ruck the wires and the receptacle into the box so
the copper one you just used. Tighten the screw the holes in the top and bottom of the receptacle
so it's snug. Connect the green wire to the green- align with the holes in the box. Use a screwdriver
colored screw on the bottom of the receptacle . to drive the two long mounting screws that hold
the receptacle to the box. Attach the cover plate.
22 Now you can reinstall the old receptacle

(or a replacement) at the starter box. First, make
sure the power is still off with your voltage tester. 23 Take the old white wire and wrap the
Take the old black wire and wrap the end of the end of the wire around the silver screw opposite
wire around the top gold screw on the side of the the copper one you just used. Tighten the screw
receptacle. Tighten the screw so it's snug. so it's snug.

Original
receptacle
24 The next step connects the old receptacle to

the new one. Take the black wire that goes into the
raceway and wrap the end of the wire around the 25 Take the old white wire and wrap the end
bortom gold screw on the side of the receptacle. of the wire around the silver screw opposite the
Tighten the screw so it's snug. copper one you just used. Tighten the screw so
it's snug.
27 Once the connections are made, gently

26 Finally, cut a piece of green wire about tuck the wires and the receptacle into the box so
6" long and strip %" from both ends (this is the holes in the top and bottom of the receptacle
called a pigtail wire). Join one end of the pigtail align with the holes in the box. Use a screwdriver
with the ends of the bare and green wires in the to drive the two long mounting screws that hold
box, using a wire connector. Wrap the other end the receptacle to the box. Install the coverplate.
of the pigtail around the green screw on the You can now restore the power and test your
receptacle. Tighten the screw until it's snug. new receptacle.
Plumbing
LET'S FACE IT, PLUMBERS SPEND A LOT OF TIME FISHING SOCKS
OUT OF TOILETS AND REPLACING FIVE-CENT WASHERS ON DRIPPY
FAUCETS. NOTHING WRONG WITH THAT, EXCEPT THEY CHARGE
$100 AN HOUR AND PROMISE TO MEET YOU AT THE DOOR "OH,
SOMETIME BETWEEN TEN AND THREE O'CLOCK." WE THINK YOU
HAVE BETTER WAYS TO SPEND YOUR TIME AND MONEY.
In this section you'll find down-to-earth repairs and replacements- the

kinds of projects that will keep the plumbing in your house running
sm oothly and looking good. Most important, they're doable.
IN THIS CHAPTER:
o Before You Begin o Adjusting Bathtub or Shower

Drainage
The Home Plumbing System
Water Supply System

o Clearing Kitchen Sink Drains
Drain-Waste-Vent System
o Fixing Leaky Sink Strainers
Plumbing Tools
o Clearing Clogged Floor Drains
Plumbing Materials
o Adding a Shower to a Tub
Evaluating Your Plumbing
o Replacing Bathtub Spouts
o Shutting Off the Water o Replacing Widespread
Bathroom Faucets
o Recovering Items from Drains o Installing New Bathroom
o Preventing Frozen Pipes Faucets
o Fixing Dripping Sink Faucets o Replacing Kitchen Sprayers

o Adjusting Water Pressure o Repairing Burst Pipes
o Fixing Running Toilets o Replacing Kitchen Faucets
o Clearing Clogged Toilets o Replacing Pop-up Stoppers
o Fixing Leaky Tubs & Showers o Replacing Toilets
PLUMBING' Introduction 123

Before You Begin:
------
The Home Plumbing System
A TYPICAL HOME PLUMBING SYSTEM INCLUDES THREE BASIC PARTS: a water sup-
ply system, a fixture and appliance set, and a drain system. These three parts can be seen
clearly in the photograph of the cut-away house on the opposite page.
Fresh water enters a home through a main supply line (1). This fresh water source IS
provided by either a municipal water company or a private underground well. If the source
is a municipal supplier, the water passes through a meter (2) that registers the amount
of water used. A family of four uses about 400 gallons of water each day.
Immediately after the main supply enters the house, a branch line splits off (3) and is joined
to a water heater (4). From the water heater, a hot water line runs parallel to the cold water
line to bring the water supply to fIxtures and appliances throughout the house. Fixtures
include sinks, bathtubs, showers, and laundry tubs. Appliances include water heaters, dish-
washers, clothes washers, and water softeners. Toilets and exterior sillcocks are examples of
fixtures that require only a cold water line.
The water supply to fIxtures and appliances is controlled with faucets and valves. Faucets and
valves have moving parts and seals that eventually may wear out or break, but they are easi-
ly repaired or replaced.
Waste water then enters the drain system. It first must flow past a trap (5), a U-shaped piece
of pipe that holds standing water and prevents sewer gases from entering the home. Every
fixture must have a drain trap.
The drain system works entirely by gravity, allowing waste water to flow downhill through
a series of large-diameter pipes. These drain pipes are attached to a system of vent pipes. Vent
pipes (6) bring fresh air to the drain system, preventing suction that would slow or stop drain
water from flowing freely. Vent pipes usually exit the house at a roof vent (7).
All waste water eventually reaches a main waste and vent stack (8) . The main stack curves to
become a sewer line (9) that exits the house near the foundation. In a municipal system, this
sewer line joins a main sewer line located near the street. Where sewer service is not avail-
able, waste water empties into a septic system.
Water meter and main shutoff valves are

located where the main water supply pipe
enters the house. The water meter is the
property of your local municipal water
company. If the water meter leaks, or if
you suspect it is not functioning properly,
call your water company for repairs.

PLUMBING· Before You Begin 125
WATER SUPPLY SYSTEM
Water supply pipes carry hot and
cold water throughout a house.
In homes built before 1960, the
original supply pipes are usually
made of galvanized iron. Newer
homes have supply pipes made
of copper. In most areas of the
country, supply pipes made of
rigid plastic or PEX are accepted
by local plumbing codes. Water
supply pipes are made to with-
stand the high pressures of the
water supply system. They have
small diameters, usually 1,2" to %",
and are joined with strong, water-
tight fittings. The hot and cold
lines run in tandem to all parts of
the house. Usually, the supply
pipes run inside wall cavities or
are strapped to the undersides of
floor joists.
Hot and cold water supply pipes

are connected to fixtures or appli-
ances. Fixtures include sinks, tubs,
and showers. Some fixtures, such
as toilets or hose bibs, are supplied
only by cold water. Appliances
include dishwashers and clothes
washers. Tradition says that hot
water supply pipes and faucet
handles are found on the left-
hand side of a fixture, with cold
water on the right.
Because it is pressurized, the

water supply system is prone to
leaks. This is especially true of
galvanized iron pipe, which has
limited resistance to corrosion.
DRAIN-WASTE-VENT SYSTEM
Drain pipes use gravity to carry waste water away from ftxtures, appliances, and other drains.
This waste water is carried out of the house to a municipal sewer system or septic tank.
Drain pipes are usually plastic or cast iron. In some older homes, drain pipes may be made of
copper or lead. Because they are not part of the supply system, lead drain pipes pose no health
hazard. However, lead pipes are no longer manufactured for home plumbing systems.
Drain pipes have diameters ranging from 1 I,,2" to 4". These large diameters allow waste water to
pass through easily.
Traps are an important part of the drain system. These curved sections of drain pipe hold stand-
ing water, and they are usually found near any drain opening. The standing water of a trap
prevents sewer gases from backing up into the home. Each time a drain is used, the standing trap
water is flushed away and is replaced by new water.
In order to work properly, the drain system requires air. Air allows waste water to flow freely
down drain pipes.
To allow air into the drain system , drain pipes are connected to vent pipes. All drain systems
must include vents, and the entire system is called the drain-waste-vent CDWV) system. One or
more vent stacks, located on the roof, provide the air needed for the DWV system to work.
PLUMBING' Before You Begin 127
Before You Begin:
Plumbing Tools
Caulk gun is designed

to hold tubes of caulk
or glue. A squeeze
handle rushes a steady
bead 0 caulk or glue
out of the nozzle.
Flashlight is an indispensable
plumber's helper for inspecting
pipes and drain openings.
Circuit tester is an impor-

tant safety device to find
out if electrical circuits in
the project area are live.
Ratchet wrench is used for
tightening or loosening bolts
and nuts. It has interchange-
able sockets for adapting to ,
different-sized bolts or nuts.
Hacksaw is used for cutting

metals. Also can be used for
cutting plastic pipes. Has
replaceable blades.
Utility knife has a

razor-sharp blade
Small wire brush has ｾｯｦｴ＠ brass for .cutting, a ｷｩｾ･＠
-bristles for cleaning metals
vanety of m ten-
without dat"aging surfaces.
als. Useful fo im·
ming ends of
plastic pipes_FoJ:.-
safety, the utility
knife should have a
retractable blade.

Ball peen hammer is
made for striking
metallic objects, like
...
-, ｾ＠ . ｾＭ
,
-
ｾ＠ＭＺＧｌＮｾ＠
-
.. ,:-- ...
a cold chisel. The
head of a ball peen
hammer is made to
resist chipping.
Files are used to smooth the edges of metal,

wood, or plastic. The round file (top) can be used
to remove burrs from the insides of pipes. The flat
file is used for all general smoothing tasks.
- Screwdrivers include the two

most common types: the slot-
ted (top), and the Phillips.
•
•t ••••
• 0 ..
0 •••
••••
••• t
••••
··.t
Adjustable wrench has a movable
·....•••
o ....
jaw that permits the wrench to fit a • • e I
, ...
wide variety of bolt heads or nuts.
•
·., .
• • e ..
• ••
Level is used
Channel-type pliers has a movable handle Wooden mallet is to set new fix-
that allows the jaws to be adjusted for wi,de used for striking tures and check
or narrow fittings. The insides of the jaws nonmetallic objects, drainline slope.
are serrated to prevent slipping. such as plastic
drywall anchors.
Tape measure
should have a
retractable steel
Needlenose pliers has thin blade at least
jaws for gripping small 16 feet long.
objects or for reaching
Putty knife is especially into confined areas.
helpful for sc[aping away
old putty or caulk from
appliances and fixtures.

Pipe wrenches have a movable jaw
that adjusts to fit a variety of pipe
diameters. They can be rented.
/
Closet auger is used to
clear toilet clogs. A bend
in the tube allows the
auger to be positioned in
the bottom of the toilet
bowl. The bend is usually
protected with a rubber
sleeve to prevent
scratching the toilet.
Spud wrench is specially designed

for removing or tightening large
nuts, mostly on toilets.
Plunger clears
water and air
plunger used
shown here (the
for clearing sink
Hand auger, sometimes

called a snake, is used to
clear clogs in drain lines. A
long, flexible steel cable is
stored in the disk-shaped
crank. A pistol-grip handle
allows the user to apply
steady pressure on the cable.
Useful power tools include a cordless screw-

driver, reciprocating saw, and drill/driver.

PLUMBING MATERIALS
Check local plumbing code

for materials allowed in
your area. Common pipe
types include:
A) Cast iron for main
drain stack
B) ABS drain pipe
(no longer allowed)
C) PVC drain pipe
D) Chromed brass
fixture drain pipe
E) CPVC supply pipe
F) Galvanized supply
pipe (seldom used)
G) Rigid copper
supply tube
H) Chromed copper
fixture supply pipe
I) PE plastic supply tube
(mostly used in irrigation)
J) Flexible copper
supply tube
K) PEX (cross-linked
polyethylene) flexible
supply line

Before You Begin:
Evaluating Your Plumbing
You don't have to possess the knowledge and
experience of a journeyman plumber to do some Fixture Minimum Gallons per
Units Minute (GPM)
basic evaluations of your plumbing system.
10 8
Taking a few moments to examine the system
helps you learn which parts are which and identi- 15 11
fy any parts of your system that may be in disre- 20 14
pair or hold the potential for future problems. 25 17
The tips on the next page offer a bit of guidance 30 20

on how to be a home plumbing sleuth. By fol-
lowing them you can quickly and accurately
identify cold and hot supply lines, drain lines, the water main, and shutoff valve locations.
And the tips below will help you test your water supply capacity to find out if the pressure
and volume are adequate to meet your water needs.
Minimum recommended water capacity is based on total demand on the system, as meas-
ured by fixture units, a standard of measurement assigned by the plumbing code. First, add
up the total units of all the fixtures in your plumbing system (see chart above). Then, per-
form the water supply capacity test described below. Finally, compare your water capacity
with the recommended minimums listed above. If it falls below that recommended GPM,
then the main water supply pipe running from the city water main to your home is inade-
quate and should be replaced with a larger pipe by a licensed contractor.
HOW TO DETERMINE YOUR WATER SUPPLY CAPACITY
2 Make a downspout like the one seen above

1 Shut off the water at the valve on your main from 2" PVC pipe sections and position it over the
water meter, run a faucet on every floor to empty water line to direct water down into a garbage can.
the supply lines, and then disconnect the pipe on Open the main supply valve and let the water run
the house side of the meter. You can do this by for 30 seconds. Shut off the water, then measure
counter-rotating the large nuts on the line with the water in the container by bailing with a i -gal-
two pipe wrenches (you can rent these if you don't lon container. Multiply this figure by two to find
want to invest in a pair). your water capacity in gallons per minute (GPM).

HOW TO INSPECT YOUR PLUMBING
There are two basic kinds of pipes in a plumbing

system: supply pipes and drain pipes. Supply pipes
are always full of water under pressure and drain
pipes (which include vent pipes that only move air) In your basement, branch drain lines run horizon-
are empry when not in use. Supply pipes usually tally at a very low slope and ultimately feed into
are ｾＢ＠ or %" in diameter and drain pipes are any- the main drain stack or house drain. They enter
where from ｬｾＢ＠ to 4" or more. The largest drain the basement through the floor, usually directly
pipes are the main drain stack (multi-level houses) under walls. Look for moisture or discoloration
and horizontal house drains fed by branch lines. around joints. On copper supply lines, visually
inspect the soldered joints for pinholes or other
signs of deterioration.
To identify which supply pipes feed which fixture ,

Trace hot water pipes from the water heater (the you can sometimes measure from the fIxture to a
outlet side will be labeled "Hot" on the appliance). heating register. Then, locate the ductwork direct-
Hot supply lines will be hot to the touch when the ly below the register and measure out from it and
fixture they connect to is in use. look for supply lines.
Shutting Off the Water
1
Just as the first step in any wiring project is to shut off the power at the
main service panel, most plumbing projects begin with shutting off the
water supply at one of the shutoff valves in the plumbing system.
USUALLY THERE ARE TWO OR THREE WAYS TO TURN OFF THE WATER. First, try to
close the stop valves at the fixture or appliance that's broken. If these are damaged or absent,
turn off the water at intermediate shutoff valves that control the hot and cold water to the
part of the house with the problem. The whole hot water system usually can be turned off
near the hot water heater. Finally, you can stop the water to the entire house at a main shut-
off located near the water meter. As a last resort, your municipal water works can shut off
your water before it gets to your house. If you have a well, find the shutoff on the pipe
between the pressure tank and the rest of your plumbing.
WATER STOP VALVES 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Stop
valve
ＢＬＭＬＺＢＮｾＮ＠
-----.1
Ｌｾｾ＠ ... ｾＮ＠
ｇｉｏ｢･ｾｾ｟ｾＧｪ＠ｾＡ＠
Channel-type
pliers
valve Co, J ., t
ｾ
Ｎ＠ ' ＧＱＬＭＮｾＱＡＧ＠
_ ＮＢｊ［Ｎ _
ＱｾＮ＠ _ . . "
,:J -
' Iii' .;,'
-
_ 11.,_ ＧｾＮＺＧ＠ Gate
valve
ｾ＠ｬｉｾＮ＠
ｾ1 .. r I
Ｌｾ .--
Ｍ Hose
Saddle
ｾ＠
valve
ｾ ---.: ｾ＠
Water stop valves and shutoff valves
function much like faucets, except most
of them are left open all the time.
• Unfortunately, valves used on potable
water (water for drinking and cooking)
lines may be similar to valves used on
natural gas lines, heating oil pipes, and
hot water heating pipes. Finding the
valves you need may require some Adjustable

wrench
careful tracing of pipes from a fixture
back to the water meter. The photos
here show common water shutoff

SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
Access panel with valves.
door opens to shut-
offs for tub/ shower • Using locking pliers
• Loosening stuck valve handles

DIFFICULTY LEVEL
VALVE- any device that regulates the flow of fluids or gases through a pipe,
STOP VALVE-a valve used to stop hot or cold water to a single faucet, toilet,
or appliance.
INTERMEDIATE SHUTOFF VALVE-a valve on a pipe used to stop hot or cold

water to part of a house or building; often a gate valve or globe valve. EASY MODERATE
HOT WATER SHUTOFF VALVE-a valve that shuts off cold water supply to the hot Time: A few minutes to "a hour
water tank.
MAIN SHUTOFF VALVE-a valve that shuts off all the water to a house or building.
PLUMBING - Shutting Off the Water 135

HOW TO SHUT OFf: HOT AND COLD WATER
1 Try to shut off the water locally first. Toilets 2 If you can't locate or operate the stop valve,
and sinks usually have stop valves under them. look for intermediate shutoffs that control multiple
Tubs and showers may have hot and cold shutoffs fixrures in a supply line. Finding the right interme-
on the faucet itself or through a wall access panel diate shutoff(s) can require trial and error and
in a room adjoining the bathroom. Washing detective work. Hot water pipes will always lead
machines are connected to shutoff valves with hot back to a hot water heater and cold water pipes
and cold supply hoses. Dishwashers sometimes will lead back to a water meter (below) or a well
share a two-outlet shutoff with the hot water sup- pressure tank.
ply tube for the kitchen faucet.
4 The main water shutoff will be located near

the water meter, generally found in your basement.
3 The hot water shutoff is located at or near the Do not confuse it with the gas meter shutoff,
water heater and lets you rum off all the hot water which has a disc shaped device associated with it
in the house. There will usually be a valve on the and generally rums off with a wrench or lever,
pipe supplying cold water to the heater, and there rather than by hand-spinning. In an emergency,
may also be a valve on the outgoing pipe from the your municipal water works may be contacted to
heater. If your water is heated by gas, do not be shut off the water with a key (a special wrench)
confused by the gas pipe and gas shutoff. The gas between the public water main on the street and
pipe leads to the thermostat at the bottom of the your house. NOT E: Some municipal water works
water heater. do not m eter water use.
WHAT IF ... ?
What if the valve is stuck?
Stop valves and shutoff valves may become

fused by corrosion if they are not used regularly. If
your valve won't operate, rap lightly on the valve
body with a wrench handle or hammer and try If rapping the valve doesn't work, try loosening
again to turn the handle clockwise. the packing nut with your adjustable wrench until it
leaks just a little bit of water. Then, retighten the nut
and try the handle again.
If the valve handle won't turn the stem, remove Grip the end of the handle stem with channel-
it so you can grip the valve stem directly. Start by type pliers or locking pliers and twist clockwise.
unscrewing the screw that secures the handle to the Don't overdo it; you can break the valve and create
valve. Remove the screw and the handle. a flood.
PLUMBING· Shutting Off the Water 137

Recovering Items
from Drains
2
Your wedding ring fell down the drain? Don't panic yet. Chances are good
that the P-trap caught it.
EVERY PLUMBING FIXTURE IN YOUR HOUSE HAS A TRAP- a downward facing

drainage loop that can collect small, heavy items (like wedding rings) that accidentally fall
into the drain. The main function of a trap is not to catch rings, but to hold water. The water
in a trap acts as a plug to keep sewer gases from rising into the house. Sink traps are located
beneath the sink basin. Bathtub and shower traps are located near the drain and are some-
times accessible through a panel in an adjoining room. A toilet trap is an integral part of the
fIxture-the front part of the trap is the bowl itself. You can fish out an object from a toilet
trap with coat-hanger wire since the bend only goes back a little way from the visible side
before bending up again. But if an object is swept out of a trap, it has embarked on a jour-
ney through the sewer system, and you may be out of luck.
TRAPS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Sandpaper
Hacksaw
A drain trap is a section of pipe attached near the top of a fixture drain that
loops downward and then upward again. This creates a "trap" for water that
blocks sewer gases from rising up though your drain lines and out the drain
opening of a fixture. It also creates a blockage point for debris and a catch
basin for small objects that find their way into the drain opening. Traps are
designed to be easy to take apart for cleaning or retrieval.
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED

TRAP-downward bend in a drain in or near a fixture that can catch small
objects. The standing water in a trap keeps sewer gases from rising into • Unscrewing and retightening
the house. compression-style slip joints
S· TRAP-The S·shaped trap is an older design used when the waste pipe
comes out of the floor.
p. TRAP-Modern sink, tub, and shower traps are shaped like a P tipped
on its face. DIFFICULTY LEVEL
J.BEND-also called a "drain bend" or simply a "trap", this is the part that forms
the low bend on a P·Trap or S·Trap.
TRAP ARM-also called a "wall tube," this extends from the J·bend to the trap
adapter at the wall on a P-trap.
TRAP ADAPTER-also called a "drain pipe connector," this is a common transi- EASY MODERATE
tion fitting that lets you attach a light gauge chromed-brass or plastic trap arm
Time: '11 hour to 1 hour
to the larger heavy-gauge waste pipe coming out of the wall. It uses a washer
and slip nut.
PLUMBING· Recovering Items from Drains 139

REMOVING AND REPLACING SINK TRAP COMPONENTS
Compression
washer
1 Before removing a sink trap, place a bucket

under the trap to catch water that spills out. 2 Loosen the slip nut on the other end of the
Loosen the slip nut at one end of the trap trap and pull both nuts away from the union. You
(a P-trap is seen here). Use channel-type pliers will fmd a compression washer at each union.
if the nut won't unscrew by hand. Slide these back as well and remove the trap by
pulling down on it.
3 Keep track of slip nuts and washers and note

their up l down orientation. Clean out debris within 4 Reassemble the trap pieces just as they came
the trap and examine it. If the trap or the slip nuts off, or follow instructions on replacement parts. If
and washers are in poor repair (very common), the trap is made of plastic, hand tighten only. Wrap
purchase replacement parts, making sure they are Teflon tape onto the male threads of metal tubes
made from the same material and are the same size and then tighten a quarter turn beyond hand tight
as the rest of the trap. with channel-type pliers. Tighten joints that leak.

WHAT IF ••• ? WHAT IF .. . ?
What if your trap looks like this? hat if my trap is permanently solvent-
W welded to the drain and trap arm?
Some sink, tub, and shower traps are made out

Often, bathtubs or showers have a drain trap
of the same heavy plastic (Schedule 40 PVC) or
system that is completely solvent-welded
metal as the rest of your DWV plumbing and do
together, making it impossible to disassemble
not fit together like light plastic or chromed drain
without cutting the pipes. But if you're lucky,
traps. But even if some parts are permanently
the trap will have a cleanout plug at the bot-
fused together by a process called solvent-weld-
tom, like the one above.
ing (these typically have a tell-tale purple band of
color around the joint) you may still be able to
access the trap by untwisting a union . Threaded
joints are a sign that you've got a removable trap.
The cleanout plug can be removed to clear the

To access the trap, simply unscrew the joint fit- trap and retrieve lost items. Try hand-loosening
tings as on the previous page. Unlike a tubular the plug first, although unless your plumbing is
trap, the nut at the DWV trap arm union virtually brand new you'll probably need an
unscrews counterclockwise from below. That's adjustable wrench to remove the plug. Fair
because the nut faces up instead of down. The warning-your hand is very likely to be
slip nut on the fixture side of the trap is loos- drenched with fairly disgusting drain water, but
ened like that of a tubular trap. hopefully, it will be worth it.
PLUMBING· Recovering Items from Drains 141

Preventing Frozen Pipes
3
Spending a little time and money on protecting your water pipes from
freezing is one of the best investments a homeowner can make.
BUR 5 T F R E E Z I N G PIP E 5 lead to about a quarter million families suffering catastrophic

water damage to their houses each year. That's the big picture. The small picture works like
this: A section of one of your hot or cold water pipes is exposed to below freezing tempera-
tures. You don't use the water in that pipe during the time it takes for an ice plug to develop.
As the ice plug grows, it compresses the water between the plug and the faucet(s) at the end
of that line. The pressure becomes extreme and bursts the pipe, sometimes in an area away
from the ice plug. The plug thaws. Water spews out of the crack, irreparably damaging walls,
floors and your possessions. Another scenario goes like this: You take immediate action to
thaw and relieve pressure on frozen pipes and then take short- and long-term steps to prevent
refreezing. We'll give you pointers here .
FREEZE-PROOFING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Paintable acrylic caulk is good for
sealing small gaps, especially in
areas where appearance is impor-
tant. Pipe insulation products
include narrow strips of fiberglass,
foam insulation tubes sized to fit
common pipe sizes, and pre·
formed valve covers for protect-
ing outdoor faucets (hose bibs).
Foil tape may be used to secure
and seal pipe insulation products.
Thermostatically controlled heat
cables prevent pipes that are
exposed to long periods of below
freezing temperatures from freez-
ing. Expanding foam (not shown
here) is effective for stopping
large cold air leaks, although it
can be unsightly.
HOW TO THAW PIPES
pen the faucet affected by the

O frozen pipes. Beginning at the Channel-
type pliers
faucet, use a hair dryer to warm the
pipe, working back toward the likely
area of the freeze. Leave water on until
full flow is restored, then take steps to
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
prevent refreezing. If the pipe has burst,
see pages 218 to 221. WARNING: • Investigative skills
Never use an open flame to thaw pipes. • Cutting and fitting

DIFFICULTY LEVEL
cpvc-This is a kind of plastic water pipe that's incompatible with some kinds
of foam insulation (which cause it to soften) and needs to be protected with
foil if heat tape is used.
THERMAL ENVELOPE-is the sometimes-murky boundary that divides heated

from unheated space. Inside spaces that may be outside the thermal envelope MODERATE
include crawl spaces, attics, garages, basements, and three-season rooms. Pipes
that may need your attention are those near or outside the thermal envelope. Time: variable
PLUMBING' Preventing Frozen Pipes 143

HOW TO FROST-PROOF YOUR PLUMBING
OUTDOOR FAUCETS. Remove hoses from all

outside faucets when freezing weather approach- PI PES NEAR EXTERIO R WALLS. Permit air
es. Shut off the water to the faucet at the shutoff to circulate from the heated interior of the house
valve inside. Drain the pipe from the shut off to to plumbing near outside walls. This could mean
the spout by opening a waste nut on the shutoff opening the dishwasher door and service panel,
and the outside faucet itself. sink cabinet doors, and plumbed rooms that aren't
heated directly. WAR N I N G: Inappropriate warm-
ing of pipes is a maj or cause of house fires.
I M MIN E N T DAN G E R 0 F F R E E Z I N G. Leave

vulnerable lines open to a fast drip if you suspect
any of your supply pipes may be in imminent dan- A I R LEA KS N EAR PIP E S. Seal gaps that can
ger of freezing. Even slowly moving water will jet cold air onto pipes. Use caulk for small gaps
not freeze. This may not be water and energy effi- and expanding foam or fiberglass for large gaps.
cient (although if you're around, you can collect WAR N I N G: Expanding foam expands more than
water in a bucket), but it gives you time to come you think it will and cures to an unsightly rust
up with a permanent solution. color when exposed to sun.
INS U LA T E SUP PLY PIP E S. Insulate pipes that
pass through unavoidably cold spaces like crawl
spaces and attics. Measure a pipe's diameter by
closing an adjustable wrench on it and then meas-
uring the span of the wrench jaws. Measure the
length of pipes to be insulated so you know how
many linear feet of insulation to buy. Buy self-seal- PIP E UN ION S. For irregular and jointed pipes,
ing side-slit foam tubes for pipes of your diame- use fiberglass strip insulation secured with foil
teres). Cut double 45-degree notches with a tape. Wind the insulation in an overlapping spiral.
scissors to turn corners (inset photo). Seal all slits The tape should not compress the fiberglass too
and joints that are not self-adhering with foil tape. tightly and should form a continuous vapor seal to
prevent condensation on the pipes in the summer.
PIPES EXPOSED TO BELOW FREEZING

T E M PER AT U RES for long periods will freeze,
insulated or not. Wrap your most vulnerable pipes
with U. 1. approved thermostatically controlled
heat cables according to manufacturer instructions. WHILE YOU'RE AWAY. Don't set the thermo-
In the long run, these pipes should be moved to a stat below 55 degrees F, and have somebody who
more protected location or the thermal envelope knows how to shut off the water check on the
should be extended to include the pipes. house daily.
PLUMBING' Preventing Frozen Pipes 145
Fixing Dripping Sink Faucets
4 r---
Eventually, just about every faucet develops leaks and drips. Repairs can
usually be accomplished simply by replacing the mechanical parts inside
the faucet body (the main trick is figuring our which kind of parts your
faucet has).
IT'S NOT SURPRISING THAT SINK FAUCETS LEAK AND DRIP. Any fitting that contains
moving mechanical parts is susceptible to failure . But add to the equation the persistent force
of water pressure working against the parts, and the real surprise is that faucets don't fail
more quickly or often. It would be a bit unfair to say that the inner workings of a faucet are
regarded as disposable by manufacturers, but it is safe to say that these parts have become
more easy to remove and replace.
The most important aspect of sink faucet repair is identifying which type of faucet you own.
In this chapter we show all of the common types and provide instructions on repairing them.
In every case, the easiest and most reliable repair method is to purchase a replacement kit
with brand new internal working parts for the model and brand of faucet you own.
SINK FAUCETS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Almost all leaks are caused by malfunctioning faucet valve mechanisms. Whether
your sink faucet is a one-handle cartridge type (above) or a two-handle compres-
sion type or anything in between, the solution to fixing the leak is to clean or SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
replace the parts that seal off the hot and cold water inlets from the spout.
• Using channel·type pliers
• Tracking the order and arrangement

of parts
• Phone or computer research
COMPRESSION VALVE-a valve type in which a spindle moves a washer up and

down to stop or allow water flow through a valve seat. DIFFICULTY LEVEL
CARTRIDGE VALVE-a valve type containing a cartridge, usually made of plastic
or plastic and metal, in which a channel is slid open and closed by rotating a han-
dle (see the example above).
NEOPRENE-a rubber·like, usually black material from which washers, rings, gas·
kets, and other seal·forming valve parts are made.
MODERATE
TELEPHONE-an invaluable tool used to contact your faucet's manufacturer, a
Time: 30 minutes to 1 hour plus
font of information specific to the repair of your particular faucet.
research and shopping
PLUMBING' Fixing Dripping Sink Faucets 147

HOW TO FIX A COMPRESSION FAUCET
1 Turn off the water at the stop valves for the

faucet you are fixing then open the faucet and let
Most compression valves have a threaded metal the water drain out. Remove the handles by pry-
spindle with a disc-shaped stem washer on the ing an index cap off the top with a dull knife or
end. When the spindle is screwed all the way in, screwdriver and removing the screw hidden
the stem washer covers a hole, and water flow to underneath.
the spout is stopped. Drips from the spout happen
when the seal between the stem washer and the
rim of the hole (called the "valve seat") is imper-
fect. Usually, replacing the stem washer is enough
to stop the drip.
Stem
assembly
3 Unscrew the stem screw and remove the stem

washer. You must fmd an exact replacement. A flat
washer should always be replaced with a flat wash-
er, for example, even if a profiled washer fits. Your
2 Use charmel-type pliers to unscrew a retaining washer may have a size code printed on the back,
nut or the entire stem assembly from the faucet but it's usually easiest to bring the whole stem into
body If what you fmd looks similar to the stem the hardware store or home center and try on new
assembly shown in step 3, you're in the right place. neoprene parts there.
Stem washer
5 Coat the new O-ring and washer w ith heat-

proof grease and install them. Tighten the stem
screw enough to hold the washer in place, but do
not distort the washer by overtightening. Coat the
4 Pryor cut off the O-ring on the stem with a
large threaded spindle threads with heatproof
grease to lubricate the action of the faucet valve.
utility knife. This keeps water from leaking under
the handle when the faucet is on.
HERE'S HOW
he re are many ways to classify sink faucets,

T but perhaps the most useful d istinction is
compression style versus washerless. These
names refer to the type of mechanism inside the
faucet. Many older faucets are compression type,
but most newer ones are washerless, which can
be one of three principal types: cartridge. ball.
or disc. All one-handle faucets are washerless.
The best way to tell if your faucet is a compres-
sion type or washerless is to turn the handle.
With compression faucets you can feel the com-
pression building as you crank the handle. even
after the wat er flow has stopped. On washerless
mode ls. the handle comes to an abrupt stop.
Ae rato r
6 Wrap Teflon tape onto the retaining nut

threads and screw it onto the faucet body. Tighten
lightly with channel-type pliers. Replace the han-
dle, the handle screw, and the index cap. TIP:
Unscrew the aerator at the tip of the spout and
open the faucet before turning the water back on .
This will flush debris from the system.
PLUM B ING ' F ix ing Dr i pping Si n k F a u cets 149
HOW TO FIX A CARTRIDGE FAUCET
1 Turn off the water at th e stop valves. To

avoid losing small parts, put a rag in the drain if
it has no stopper. Some cartridge faucets have an
index cap covering a handle screw. Other handles,
especially on one-h andle fauce ts, are secured
w ith a recessed set screw that can be loosened
with a %2" or 'l64" hex wrench . A lever type
handle with no set screw may be removed with
channel-type pliers.
SHOPPING TIP
R eplacement cartridges are not interchange-

able among brands or sometimes even
among models from the same manufacturer. It's
always a good idea to bring the old cartridge
with you to the hardware store to help you
select the correct replacement.
Both one- and two-handle faucets are available with

replaceable plastic cartridges inside the faucet body.
These cartridges (used by Price-Pfister, Sterling,
Kohler, Moen, and others) regulate the flow of
water through the spout, and in single-handle
faucets they also mix the hot and cold water to
alter the temperature out of the spout. To locate
the correct replacement cartridge for your faucet,
knowing the manufacturer and model number is a
great help.

Retaining nut
3 Record the direction the cartridge is facing by

2 Remove the retaining nut, if there is one, with noting the orientation of some distinctive part of
channel-type pliers. A recessed nut with notches can the cartridge (some are cast with an orientation
be removed with open needlenose pliers or a tool tab that generally should point straight forward).
provided by the faucet manufacturer. With other Pull the cartridge straight up and out with pliers.
kinds, you'll remove a sleeve and three screws You may need to twist the cartridge back and
before extracting the cartridge. forth to break the seal.
New cartridge
Old cartlricl!.
Aerator
5 Reattach the handle, remove the aerator,

turn on the water, and test. If the faucet doesn't
4 Purchase a replacement cartridge. Apply heat- work, the cartridge may be facing the wrong
proof grease to the valve seat and O-rings, then direction. Remove it and reinsert it faCing the
install the cartridge in the correct orientation and other way, still making sure the tabs fit into the
with its tabs seated in the slotted body of the faucet. slots on the valve body.
PLUMBING' Fixing Dripping Sink Faucets 151
HOW TO FIX A BALL ｆａｕｃｅｔＬｾＮ＠
1 Turn off the hot and cold water at the stop

valves and open the faucet to let any water drain
from the pipes. Plug the sink drain with a towel to
avoid losing small parts. Pry off a red and blue
hot ! cold button or a knob,handle button, if pres-
ent, with a small screwdriver or dull knife. Loosen
the setscrew hidden underneath with the hex
wrench on the ball faucet tool. Now remove the
handle.
The ball, type faucet is used by Delta, Peerless, and

a few others. The ball fits into the faucet body and
is constructed with three holes (not visible here)-
a hot inlet, a cold inlet, and the outlet, which fills
the valve body with water that then flows to the
spout or sprayer. Depending on the position of
the ball, each inlet hole is open, closed, or some,
where in,between. The inlet holes are sealed to
the ball with valve seats, which are pressed tight
against the ball with springs. If water drips from 2 Wrap the jaws of your channel,type pliers
the spout, replace the seats and springs. Or go with masking tape to protect the faucet finish.
ahead and purchase an entire replacement kit and Grasp the faceted or knurled edges of the round
replace all or most of the working parts. ball cap with the pliers and twist to remove.
4 If your faucet drips from the spout, it's
because the seal between the ball and the hot- or
cold-water intake has failed. Pull the neoprene valve
seats and springs from the intakes with a screw-
driver. Note how the cupped sides of the valve
3 Pull out the ball, noticing for later how a pin in seats fit over the narrow sides of the springs and
how the wide base of the springs fit into holes in
the faucet body fits in a slit in the ball. Clean the
ball with white vinegar and a toothbrush or replace the intakes.
it if it is scratched.
5 Replace parts in the reverse order they came 6 Make sure the adjusting ring is partly backed
off. Each spring / seat washer combo can be lined off before screwing the cap on. After the cap is on,
up on a screwdriver, set in place, and pushed in gently tighten down the adjusting ring with the ball
with a fmger. The pin in the faucet body fits in a faucet tool. Remove the aerator, turn on the water
slit on the ball. The pointy side of the cam faces supply and test. If water leaks from under the han-
forward, and lugs on the sides of the cam fit in dle or if the handle action is stiff, tighten or loosen
notches in the valve body the adjusting ring. Replace the aerator.
PLUMBING· Fixing Dripping Sink Faucets 153

HOW TO FIX A DISC FAUCET _ _
1 Turn off the hot and cold water at the stop

valves, open the faucet to let any water drain out,
and plug the sink drain. Pry the index cap (and
possibly a hot / cold indicator) off the handle with
a small screwdriver or a dull knife. Loosen the
handle setscrew with a Phillips or slotted screw-
driver or an Allen wrench and remove the handle.
The disc-type faucet used by American Standard,

among others, has a wide disc cartridge hidden
beneath the handle and the cap. Mounting screws
hold the cartridge in the valve body. Two tight- 2 Remove the chrome cap and / or a plastic or
fitting ceramic discs with holes in them are con- metal retaining ring with channel-type pliers
cealed inside the cartridge. The handle slides the (cover the jaws with masking tape). Remove the
top disc back and forth and from side to side over cylinder containing the discs, generally by first
the stationary bottom disc. This brings the holes in removing three long retaining screws. Take time
the disks into and out of alignment, adjusting the to line up parts in the orientation and order in
flow and mix of hot and cold water. which they were installed.

3 If your faucet leaks under the handle, remove
the three neoprene seals from the underside of the
disc cylinder. Bring them to the hardware store and
fmd matching replacements. For a leak out of the 4 If you are reusing the cylinder, clean the
spout, you need to replace the entire cylinder. water inlets, scouring with a toothbrush and white
vinegar if they are crusty.
5 Lightly coat the new neoprene seals with

heatproof grease and insert them in the appropri-
ate openings in the cylinder. The seals will be slip- 6 Insert the cylinder and secure it to the faucet
pery and you'll need to contort them a bit to fit body with the cylinder screws. Reattach the retain-
the shapes of the openings, so be sure to do this ing nut. Reattach the handle, then turn on the hot
over a clean, light colored surface so you don't and cold supplies and test the faucet. Remove the
lose the seals. aerator from the spout to allow debris to escape.
PLUMBING· Fi x ing Dripping Sink Faucets 155

Adjusting
Water Pressure
5
Restoring vigorous water pressure to your water outlets can be as simple

as cleaning a filter in a faucet or showerhead.
CORRECTING LOW WATER PRESSURE AT A SINK OR SHOWER MAY BE EASIER
T HAN YOU' 0 EX P E CT. Minerals and rust can collect in the finely perforated screens and
sprayers in sink spouts and showerheads. Clean these out and, voila, the water flows with
vigor; no plumber needed. Before water reaches any fIxture or appliance, it passes through a
shutoff valve or two. Make sure these are fully open. Washing machines also draw water
through filters. Clean these screens and your washer may fill faster. Old iron water pipes are
subject to mineral buildup. A professional can replace these with modern copper or plastic
pipes that resist buildup and corrosion.
WATER FLOW 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Masking
Shower arm Toothbrush tape
Drip pan
Needlenose
pliers
Shower head
O-ring
Adjustable
wrench
Water spray
pattern device
Outlet- - - - - - --'(j
Cone- Sink grease

shaped aerator
A showerhead is easy to remove for cleaning or repair. Once you remove it from vinegar and/or flat
filter screens
the shower arm, you take it apart, clean the parts (you may need to check the
flow restrictor), and then reassemble it and reattach it to the arm .
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW • Us ing channel-t ype pliers
• Using a wrench
AERATOR-a small cylinder on the end of a bathroom or kitchen sink spout that
breaks up the water stream so it doesn 't splash.
FLOW RESTRICTOR-a disc-shaped part on the inlet side of a showerhead with

a small hole or holes designed to restrict water flow and conserve water. DIFFICULTY LEVEL
MODERATE
Time: less than 'a hour per fixture
PLUMBING' Adjusting Water Pressure 157

HOW TO CLEAN A SHOWERHEAD
THE FIRST SPOT TO CHECK
ater may flow through two or three shut-

W off valves between the city water line or
the well and you r shower or sink. Make sure all
the shutoff valves are functioning properly and
are opened fully. If the valves are all open, the
problem could be in the internal working of your
outlet valves. Check the filters and aerators first,
as we show you in this project. If the water flow
is still subpar, refer to the project that show you
how to repair and replace faucets .
1 Remove the showerhead from the shower

arm by unscrewing the collar nut that houses the
swivel ball and is threaded onto the shower arm.
You may need to grip the shower arm with chan-
nel-type pliers to keep it from twisting. Wrap the
jaws of the pliers with masking tape to protect
shower parts.
3 Disassemble the showerhead. On newer

showerheads, the swivel ball or the inlet side of the
showerhead will have flow restriction parts. These
2 Once the showerhead is fully removed, run contain one or more small holes and exist mainly to
water through the shower arm for a couple of conserve water. Remove these parts, if you can,
minutes to clear it. with a small knife or screwdriver.

5 Use a paper clip or pin to clean the outlet holes
4 Keep all parts in order and oriented in the on the showerhead then flush all parts clean with
correct up l down position. If the house water water. Soak encrusted parts overnight in white
pressure is very poor, you may leave the flow vinegar to soften mineral deposits.
restriction parts (inset photo) out when you put
the showerhead back together. WAR N I N G :
Removing flow restrictor parts can dramatically
increase your water and energy bills.
7 Wrap the shower arm threads with two or

three layers of Teflon tape in a clockwise direction
before replacing the head. Tighten the head to the
6 Coat the rubber O-ring that contacts the shower arm a little more than hand tight using your
swivel ball with silicone grease before reassem- adjustable wrench. Tighten a little more if the joint
bling the head. Hand-tighten the collar nut that drips with the shower on. If the showerhead does
holds the swivel fitting to the showerhead. not work to your satisfaction, replace it.
HOW TO CLEAN A FAUCET AERATOR
1 Dry and wrap the aerator with masking tape

2 Finish unscrewing the aerator by hand then
to protect the finish. Adj ust channel-type pliers to
gently prod apart its components with your fmger
fit comfortably over the aerator and twist the aer-
or a needle or other pointed tool. Be careful to lay
ator counterclockwise to loosen.
out pieces in the order they fit together and in the
correct up / down orientation. TIP: Turn on the
water while the aerator is removed to flush any
built-up materials out the spout.
3 Clean parts with white vinegar and a tooth-

brush. Soften mineral deposits by soaking
overnight in the vinegar. Replace the aerator at a
hardware store or home center if parts are dam-
aged or difficult to clean. A standard replacement 4 Reassemble the aerator exactly as it came
aerator has both male and female threads and fits apart and hand-tighten it onto the spout. Remove
most faucets , but take in your old aerator in case the tape. Replace the aerator if it still doesn't
yours is a non-standard size. work right.
WASHING MACHINE EILLS SLOWLY?
1 Turn off hot and cold water to the machine 2 Some water supply hoses for washing
and unscrew supply hoses where they join the machines contain filter screens in the hose cou-
machine or at the first accessible coupling. plings that connect to the water supply and to the
water inlets in the washing machine. If you find
these filters, carefully remove and clean them.
3 Most washing machines contain filter screens

at the water inlet port. Remove the cone filter
with needlenose pliers and clear debris from the
filter screen. If the filter is in poor condition, 4 Apply Teflon tape to the male pipe threads at
replace it. the water inlet connection and retighten all hoses.
Fixing Run ning Toilets
6
Jiggling the handle can make a running toilet stop, but it's only a temporary
solution. Making real repairs is a lot easier than you might think.
SNORING, TICKING CLOCKS, DRIPPING FAUCETS, AND RUNNING TOILETS
are perhaps the four greatest nighttime annoyances. Together they conspire to keep you from
the blissful slumber you deserve. For help on fixing leaky faucets, see pages 146 to 155. If
your toilet runs and runs and you just can't seem to catch up with it, you're in the right place.
This project will show you how to diagnose and remedy the most common causes for the
perpetually running toilet.
TOILET TROUBLE SHOOTING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Five steps of a perfect flush:

1.The handle opens the
flush valve, emptying the
tank into the toilet bowl.
2. Water races through rim
openings and the siphon jet
at the base of the bowl.
3. The sudden surge causes
the water to exit the trap
and bowl as a un it, siphon-
ing itself down the toilet
drain. 4. The ballcock (fill
valve) opens when the float
drops to refill the tank. The
refill tube directs some of
the water down the over-
flow pipe to refill the bowl.
5. The float turns off the fill
valve when enough water
has entered the tank.
#. ( 9
...../1• . ,
,-
Most toilets can be fixed with generic replacement parts.
However, some brands require special parts, especially
newer models, which may have larger flush valves. Contact Large
sponge
your manufacturer or go to a well-equipped plumbing-sup-
. '3 ply house. Identify your toilet brand, which is often written
behind (not on) the seat, and its model number (usually
stamped inside the tank or tank lid). Always bring old parts
with you to the store for reference.
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
• Patience
• Observation
BALLCOCK / FILL VALVE-These terms both refer to the valve that fills the tank • Willingness to call a manufacturer
after you flush the toilet. Traditionally, the ballcock is turned on and off by a float help center if you get into trouble
ball on a rod. Modern cup-float fill valves can be used to replace most old ball-
cocks.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
FLUSH VALVE-the assembly that releases water from the tank into the bowl
when the toilet is flushed . It includes the overflow pipe, the valve seat (hole), and
the flapper or tank ball that covers the hole. Universal flapper-style flush valves
can replace old tank ball or flapper flush valves on most toilets.
STOP VALVE-the valve that turns off water to the toilet.
MODERATE
SUPPLy-the hose or tube that takes water from the stop valve to the tank.
Time: 5 minutes or hours depending
on problem
PLUMBING· Fixing Running Toilets 163

HOW TO RESET THE TANK WATER LEVEL
2 A ball float is connected to a float arm that's

attached to a plunger on the other end. As the
1 Perhaps the most common cause of running

tank ftlls, the float rises and lifts one end of the
float arm. At a certain point, the float arm
toilets is a minor misadjustment that fails to tell
depresses the plunger and stops the flow of water.
the water to shut off when the toilet tank is full.
By simply bending the float arm downward a bit
The culprit is usually a float ball or cup that is
you can cause it to depress the plunger at a lower
adjusted to set a water level in the tank that's
tank water level, solving the problem.
higher than the top of the overflow pipe, which
serves as a drain for excess tank water.
4 A float cup ftll valve is made of plastic and is

3 A diaphragm fill valve usually is made of easy to adjust. Lower the water level by pinching
plastiC and has a wide bonnet that contains a the spring clip with fingers or pliers and moving
rubber diaphragm. Turn the adjustment screw the clip and cup down the pull rod and shank.
clockwise to lower the water level and counter- Raise the water level by moving the clip and
clockwise to raise it. cup upward.
WHAT IE THE FLUSH STOPS TOO SOON?
1 Sometimes there is plenty of water in the

tank, but not enough of it makes it to the bowl
before the flush valve shuts off the water from the 2 The handle lever should pull straight up on
tank. Modern toilets are designed to leave some the flapper. If it doesn't, reposition the chain hook
water in the tank, since the first water that leaves on the handle lever. When the flapper is covering
the tank does so with the most force. (It's pressed the opening, there should be just a little slack in
out by the weight of the water on top). To the chain. If there is too much slack, shorten the
increase the duration of the flush, shorten the chain and cut off excess with the cutters on your
length of the chain between the flapper and the pliers. Turn the water back on at the stop valve
float (yellow in the model shown). and test the flush.
3 If the toilet is not completing flushes and

the lever and chain for the flapper or tank ball are
correctly adjusted, the problem could be that the 4 Unless the handle parts are visibly broken,
handle mechanism needs cleaning or replacement. try cleaning them with an old toothbrush dipped
Remove the chain / linkage from the handle lever. in white vinegar. Replace the handle and test the
Remove the nut on the backside of the handle action. If it sticks or is hard to operate, replace it.
with an adjustable wrench. It unthreads clockwise Most replacement handles come with detailed
(the reverse of standard nuts). Remove the old instructions that tell you how to install and
handle from the tank. adjust them.
HOW TO REPLACE A FILL VALVE
Critical
level ｾＢ＠ ..'
mark
1 Toilet fill valves degrade eventually and need

to be replaced. Before removing the old fill valve,
shut off the water supply at the fixture stop valve
located on the tube that supplies water to the 2 Fill valves need to be coordinated with the
tank. Flush the toilet and sponge out the remain - flush valve so the tank water level is not higher
ing water. Then, remove the old fill valve assem- than the overflow pipe and so the fill valve is not
bly by loosening and removing the mounting nut low enough in the tank that it creates a siphoning
on the outside of the tank wall that secures the hazard. New fill valves have a "critical level" mark
fill valve. e CL") near the top of the valve.
3 The new fill valve must be installed so the

Critical Level e CL") mark is at least 1" above the
overflow pipe. Slip the shank washer on the 4 Adjust the height of the fill valve shank so
threaded shank of the new fill valve and place the the "CL" line and overflow pipe will be correctly
valve in the hole so the washer is flat on the tank related. Different products are adjusted in different
bottom. Compare the locations of the CL mark ways- the fill valve shown here telescopes when
and the overflow pipe. it's twisted.

Threaded
valve stem ... _ _ _ _ _ 1
5 Position the valve in the tank. Push down on

the valve shank (not the top) while hand tighten-
ing the locknut onto the threaded valve stem
(thread the mounting nut on the exterior side of
tank). Hand-tighten only.
6 Hook up the water by attaching the coupling
nut from the supply riser to the threaded shank at
the bottom end of the new ftll valve. Hand-
tighten only.
Refill tube
pipe
7 If the overflow pipe has a cap, remove it.

Attach one end of the refill tube from the new
valve to the plastic angle adapter and the other end
to the refill nipple near the top of the valve. Attach
the angle adapter to the overflow pipe. Cut off 8 Turn the water on fully. Slightly tighten any
excess tubing with scissors to prevent kinking. fitting that drips water. Adjust the water level in
WAR N I N G: Don't insert the refill tube into the the tank by squeezing the spring clip on the float
overflow pipe. The outlet of the refill tube needs cup with needlenose pliers and moving the cup up
to be above the top of pipe for it to work properly. or down on the link bar. Test the flush.

HOW TO REPLACE A FLUSH VALVE
1 If the fixes on the previous pages still do not

stop your toilet from running, the next step it to
try replacing the flush valve. Before removing the 2 Unscrew the bolts holding the toilet tank to the
old flush valve, shut off the water supply at the bowl by loosening the nuts from below. If you are
fixrure stop valve located on the rube that supplies having difficulty unscrewing the tank bolts and
water to the tank. Flush the toilet and sponge out nuts because they are fused together by rust or cor-
the remaining water. To make this repair you'll rosion, apply penetraring oil or spray lubricant to
need to remove the tank from the bowl. Start by the threads, give it a few minutes to penetrate and
unscrewing the water supply coupling nut from then try again. If that fails, slip an open-ended
the bottom of the tank. hacksaw (or plain hacksaw blade) berween the tank
and bowl and saw through the bolt (inset photo).
3 Unhook the chain from the handle lever arm. 4 Place the new flush valve in the valve hole
Remove the tank and carefully place it upside- and check to see if the top of the overflow pipe is
down on an old towel. Remove the spud washer at least 1" below the Critical Level line (see page
and spud nut from the base of the flush valve 166) and the tank opening where the handle is
using a spud wrench or large channel-type pliers. installed. If the pipe is too tall, cut it to length
Remove the old flush valve . with a hacksaw.

Intermediate nut goes
between tank and bowl
Spud
nut \
Spud
washer
5 Position the flush valve flapper below the han-

6 With the tank lying on its back, thread a rub-
dle lever arm and secure it to the tank from beneath
ber washer onto each tank bolt and insert it into
with the spud nut. Tighten the nut one-half turn
the bolt holes from inside the tank. Then, thread a
past hand tight with a spud wrench or large ch an-
brass washer and hex nut onto the tank bolts from
nel-type pliers. Over tightening may cause the tank
below and tighten them to a quarter turn past
to break. Put the new spud washer over the spud
hand tight. Do not overtighten.
nut, small side down.
7 With the hex nuts tightened against the tank 8 Connect the chain clip to the handle lever
bottom, carefully lower the tank over the bowl arm and adjust the number of links to allow for a
and set it down so the spud washer seats neatly little slack in the chain when the flapper is closed.
over the water inlet in the bowl and the tank bolts Leave a little tail on the chain for adjusting, cut-
fit through the holes in the bowl flange . Secure ting off remaining excess. Attach the refill tube to
the tank to the bowl with a rubber washer, brass the top of the overflow pipe the same way it had
washer, and nut or wing nut at each bolt end. been attached to the previous refill pipe. Turn on
Press the tank to level as you hand-tighten the nuts. the water supply at the stop valve and test the
Hook up the water supply at the fill valve inlet. flush. (Some flush valve flappers are adjustable.)
PLUMBING' Fixing Running Toilets 169

Clearing Clogged Toilets
7
- -- ---
--
-
A blockage in the toilet bowl leaves flush water from the tank nowhere to
go but on the floor.
THE TOILET IS CLOGGED AND HAS OVERFLOWED, or perhaps its gorge has simply
risen, lapped the canyon walls but not yet topped the rim. Have patience. Now is the time for
considered action. A second flush is a tempting but unnecessary gamble . First, do damage
control. Mop up the water if there's been a spill. Next, consider the nature of the clog. Is it
entirely "natural" or might a foreign object be contributing to the congestion? Push a natu-
ral blockage down the drain with a plunger. A foreign object should be removed, if possible,
with a closet auger. Pushing anything more durable than toilet paper into the sewer may cre-
ate a more serious blockage in your drain and waste system . If the tub, sink, and toilet all
become clogged at once, the branch drainline that serves all the bathroom fixtures is proba-
bly blocked and your best recourse is to call a drain clearing service.
CLOGGED TOILETS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
The trap is the most
common catching
spot for toilet clogs, Towels
Once the clog forms,

flushing the toilet
cannot generate
enough water power
to clear the trap, so
flush water backs up.
Traps on modern 1.6-
gallon toilets have
been redesigned to
larger diameters and
are less prone to
clogs than the first
generation of 1.6 gal-
Ion toilets.
Not all plungers were created equal. The standard plunger

(left) is simply an inverted rubber cup and is used to plunge
sinks, tubs, and showers. The flanged plunger, also called a
force cup, is designed to get down into the trap of a toilet
drain. But in a pinch you can fold the flange up into the SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
flanged plunger cup and use it as a standard plunger.

• Vigorous plunging
• Using a closet auger
WATER SEAL-Because of the loop-like shape of a toilet's plumbing, there DIFFICULTY LEVEL
is always water in the bowl and in the passage directly behind the bowl.
This water seal keeps sewer gases from rising into the house.
TOILET TRAP-A "trap" in plumbing refers to a bend that holds a water seal,
so technically, the toilet bowl is part of the trap. But usually people are talking
about the back, hidden portion of that bend when they speak of the toilet trap. MODERATE
FLUSH VALVE-is the flapper covering the hole in the bottom of the tank
that sits behind the bowl. The toilet flushes when this is opened. Time: 15 to 30 minutes
CONTROLLED FLUSH-the letting of water from the tank to bowl by manually

lifting and closing the flush valve. This prevents bowl overflow when you're
not sure the clog is gone.
PLUMBING' Clearing Clogged Toilets 171

HOW TO PLUNGE A CLOGGED TOILET
TOOL TIP
flanged plunger fits into the mouth of the

A toilet trap and creates a tight seal so you
can build up enough pressure in front of the
plunge r to dislodge the blockage a nd send it on
its way.
1 Plunging is the easiest way to remove "natu-

ral" blockages. Take time to lay towels around the
base of the toilet and remove other objects to a
safe, dry location, since plunging may result in
splashing. Sometimes, allowing a very full toilet to
sit for twenty or thirty minutes will permit some
of the water to drain to a less precarious level, or
you can bail it out. WAR N I N G: Don't use a
plunger if the toilet is plugged with a diaper,
washcloth, or other object that could get pushed
into the drainpipe. It may create a worse clog in a
pipe that's beyond your reach. Try to remove the
object with a closet auger.
- 3 If you force enough water out of the bowl that
-- you are unable to create suction with the plunger,

put a controlled amount of water in the bowl by
lifring up on the flush valve in the tank. Resume
2 There should be enough water in the bowl plunging. When you think the drain is clear, you
to completely cover the plunger. Fold out the can try a controlled flush , with your hand ready to
skirt from inside the plunger to form a better seal close the flush valve should the water threaten to
with the opening at the base of the bowl. Pump spill out of the bowl. Once the blockage has cleared,
the plunger vigorously half-a-dozen times, take a dump a five-gallon pail of water into the toilet to
rest, and then repeat. Try this for 10 to 15 cycles. blast away any residual debris.
172 THE C OMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO HOMEOWNER BASICS
HOW TO CLEAR CLOGS WITH A CLOSET AUGER
TOOL TIP
closet auger is a semirigid cable housed in a

A tube. The tube has a bend at the end so it
can be snaked through a toilet trap (without
scratch ing it) to snag blockages.
Protective
rubber
boot
1 Place the business end of the auger firmly in

the bottom of the toilet bowl with the auger tip
fully withdrawn. A rubber sleeve will protect the
porcelain at the bottom bend of the auger. The tip
will be facing back and up, which is the direction
the toilet trap takes.
2 Rotate the handle on the auger housing

clockwise as you push down on the rod, advanc-
ing the rotating auger tip up into the back part of
the trap. You may work the cable backward and
forward as needed, but keep the rubber boot of
the auger firmly in place in the bowl. When you 3 Fully retract the auger until you have recov-
feel resistance, indicating you've snagged the ered the object. This can be frustrating at times, but
object, continue rotating the auger counterclock- it is still a much easier task than the alternative- to
wise as you withdraw the cable and the object. remove the toilet and go fishing.
PLUMBING' Cleari ng Clogg e d To ilets 173

Fixing Leaky Tubs & Showers
8
Tub/shower plumbing is notorious for developing drips from the tub spout
and the showerhead. In most cases, the leak can be traced to the valves
controlled by the faucet handles.
DOES YOUR TUB/SHOWER DRIP, DRIP, DRIP from the spout or the showerhead even
when the water is turned off? Chances are, a washer or cartridge in the faucet valve needs
attention or replacement. But these parts vary widely by type and by brand name. The most
critical part of a good repair job does not involve wrenches and screwdrivers, but the tele-
phone and possibly a computer. That's because finding the brand name, model number, and
ultimately part numbers will let you get the exact materials you'll need to do the job right.
From there, it's a pretty easy repair.
TUB & SHOWER FAUCETS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
If you could make your
tub/shower and the tub Abrasive pad
surround above it disappear,
you'd see pipes and plumb-
ing parts similar to this. The
faucet seen here only has
one handle that controls the
water volume and tempera-
ture. The water is directed
to either the tub spout or
the showerhead with a
diverter located in the tub
spout. Some two-handle
models are joined by a third
handle that serves as a
diverter instead of the
gate on the spout.
Ball peen Utility

hammer knife
As the stem assemblies (right)

demonstrate, sink and tub
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
compression valves share the
same genetics but vary in size • Using channel-type pliers
and the particulars. • Tracking the order and

arrangement of parts
• Phone or computer research
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
COMPRESS ION FAUCET -a two-or three-handle faucet that uses a simple stem
and washer compression valve . MODERATE
CARTRIDGE FAUCET -a one-, two-, or three-handle faucet with a valve or valves Time: 1 hour plus research and
that uses a narrow, cylinder-shaped cartridge, which is moved in the valve body shopping
by the handle to channel hot and cold water.
PLUMBING· Fixing Leaky Tubs & Showers 175

HOW TO FIX A LEAKY ONE-HANDLE FAUCET
1 Single-handle tub and

shower faucets have one valve
controlling both hot and cold
water. This valve sits directly
behind the one large knob or
lever. If your tub spout drips all
the time, you need to fIx this
valve. The first step involves
information and materials gath-
ering (see "Steps to Successful
Shopping" on page 179). Next,
water Escutcheon turn off the hot and cold water
supply
line supplies. Make sure the divert-
er is in the tub-filling position,
then drain residual water out
of the plumbing by opening
the faucet to hot and cold
water. Lay towels in the tub to
prevent damaging the fInish
with tools and losing
small parts.
2 Remove the handle of the damaged valve by 3 Many one-handle tub and shower faucets
fIrst prying an index cap off the front with a dull have hot and cold shutoffs built in to the faucet
knife or screwdriver and removing the screw hidden body. Turn these off clockwise with a large slotted
underneath. Pull off the handle. Remove any other screwdriver. Integral stops are useful if you need
parts obstructing the escutcheon, then remove the to leave the water off for some time during a
escutcheon. Keep parts in a safe place. Line them repair, and the only other turnoff to the tub and
up and orient them as they sit in the faucet. If it's shower takes other fixtures out of commission. If
helpful, take digital pictures to remember how the you'd rather, you may turn off water at the near-
parts went together. est shutoff valves instead.

SAFETY TIP
balancing cartridge is included in many

A newer single-handle faucets. This unit
prevents sudden swings in water temperature
due to relative pressure changes in the hot
and cold supplies (such as those that result
from flushing a toilet or turning on a sink
tap) . The relative pressure of the hot and
cold water exiting the cartridge remains
the same. If your faucet has a balancing
cartridge, note that the faucet will not work
at all if only one of the supply pipes is open.
If the O-rings on the back of the balancing
cartridge are worn, replace them.
4 Remove the threaded retaining ring that

secures the cartridge or stem and bonnet assembly
(some models may use retaining screws to hold
the stem). This unit is what turns the water on
and controls the mix of hot and cold water.
5 Remove the cartridge, pulling gently on the

stem with a pair of pliers if necessary. With the 6 Clean the cartridge by flushing with warm
cartridge out, now is a good time to fl ush out the water and replace the O-ring at the end (coat the
system by opening the shutoffs in the valve or in new O-ring with heatproof grease). If the car-
the supply line. Watch out, though, the water will tridge is old or visibly damaged, replace it.
come out of the valve opening, not the spout. Reinstall the faucet parts in reverse order.
PLUMBING' F ix ing Le a ky Tub s & Sh o wer s 177

HOW TO FIX A LEAKY TWO- OR
THREE-HANDLE FAUCET
1 Both three-handle and two-handle faucets have a hot-water valve and a cold-water valve behind their
hot and cold faucet handles. If water drips from the spout when the faucet is off, you need to determine which
valve isn't working by shutting off the water supply on each line in turn at the shutoff valve. Two- and three-
handle faucets are repaired in the same manner, except that the middle handle on the three-handle models is a
diverter valve (the diverter on two-handle models is in the spout). If the showerhead on your three-handle sys-
tem drips, or if you continue to get a high volume of water through the spout when it should be coming out
the showerhead, it's the diverter handle that needs attention.
2 Determine which valve is causing the leak (see

previous step) and remove the handle cover for that 3 Remove the bonnet nut from the stem assem-
valve (in this case, the diverter valve is being worked bly using an adjustable wrench. If your faucet has
upon). Also remove the escutcheon that covers the cartridges, not compression valves as shown here,
wall opening for that valve. simply remove the cartridge (see p. 177).

4 Unscrew the stem assembly using a deep-set 5 Rem ove th e brass stem screw from the
socket and a ratchet w rench . You m ay need to compression valve. Find an exact m atch for the
enlarge the opening in the wall slightly with a cold stem washer that's held in place by the stem
chi sel and ball-peen hamm er to gain clearance for screw. Disassemble the spindle and the valve
the socket. T IP: You can purchase a shower valve retaining nut.
socket w rench at m ost hardware stores. The m ost
common sizes are 2%2" and 3\02" .
SHOPPING TIP
STEPS TO SUCCESSFUL SHOPPING
dentify the brand. This may be written on the

I faucet handle, on a plate behind the handle or
handles, or elsewhere on the hardware of the
tub or shower. Be aware that a name on a pop-
up stopper, overflow cap, or showerhead mayor
may not be the manufacturer of your faucet.
Identify the model. The major brands have web

sites and toll-free numbers. Use these to identi-
fy your model.
Identify replacement parts. It may be that all

you will need for replacement parts are washers,
screws, and a few common valve parts available
at a well-equipped home center or hardware
store. But if you need to replace a cartridge or
other intricate faucet component, your manufac- 6 Clean the valve parts w ith white vinegar and
turer can provide parts numbers and tell you a toothbrush or sm all w ire brush. Coat all washers
how to order these. w ith heatproof grease and reassemble then
reinstall the valve.
PLUMBING· Fixing Leaky Tubs & Showers 179

Adlusting Bathtub
or S-hower Drainage
9
As with bathroom sinks, tub and shower drain pipes may become clogged
with soap and hair. The drain stopping mechanisms can also require
cleaning and adjustment.
TUB OR SHOWER NOT DRAINING? First, make sure it's only the tub or shower. If your
sink is plugged, too, it may be a coincidence or it may be that a common branch line is
plugged. A sure sign of this is when water drains from the sink into the tub. This could
require the help of a drain cleaning service , or a drum trap that services both the sink and
tub needs cleaning. If the toilet also can't flush (or worse, water comes into the tub when you
flush the toilet), then the common drain to all your bathroom fIxtures is plugged. Call a drain
cleaning service. If you suspect the problem is only with your tub or shower, then read on.
We'll show you how to clear drainlines and clean and adjust two types of tub stopper
mechanisms. Adjusting the mechanism can also help with the opposite problem: a tub that
drains when you're trying to take a bath.
BATH DRAINS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Screwdrivers
Needle-nose
pliers
Wire
brush ...
ｾ＠ Stiff wire
Plunger with
fold-out skirt
(force cup)
If you removed the wall behind your tub/shower along with part of the floor,
this is pretty much what you would see. From the photo you can tell that having SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
to access your drain for outside the tub is not easy, and that maintaining the
• Vigorous plunging
drain system to avoid major problems and blockages is well worth the effort. • Using an auger
Fortunately, maintenance is not difficult, and minor clogs are relatively easy to
track down and eliminate .
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
POP·UP DRAIN-a mechanical drain stopper where a metal drain cover is raised
and lowered with a lever mounted on the cover of the overflow opening .
PLUNGER·TYPE DRAIN-another mechanical drain stopper where a plunger is

EASY MODERATE
lowered through the overflow pipe to block the drain.
HAND AUGER-a long bend able cable with a crank at one end that is snaked
Time: 1,2 to 11;2 hours
into a drain line to retrieve or break up a blockage.
PLUMBING· Adjusting Bathtub or Shower Drainage 181

HOW TO FIX A PLUNGER-TYPE DRAIN
linkage
1 A plunger-type rub drain has a simple grate

over the drain opening and a behind-the-scenes
plunger stopper. Remove the screws on the over-
flow coverplate with a slotted or Phillips head
screwdriver. Pull the coverplate, linkage, and
plunger from the overflow opening.
3 Adjust the plunger. If your rub isn't holding

water with the plunger down, it's possible the
plunger is hanging too high to fully block water
from the rub shoe. Loosen the locknut with
needlenose pliers then screw the rod down about
2 Clean hair and soap off the plunger with a ｾＢＮ＠ Tighten the locknut down. If your rub drains
scrub brush. Mineral buildup is best tackled with poorly, the plunger may be set too low. Loosen
white vinegar and a toothbrush or a small the locknut and screw the rod in an ｾＢ＠ before
wire brush. retightening the locknut.
HOW TO FIX A POP-UP DRAIN
｣ｯｶ･ｲｰｬ｡ｴｾ＠
Trip lever
Overflow " .. in ....--
Drain
stopper
1 Raise the trip lever to the open position. Pull
the stopper and rocker arm assembly from the
drain. Clean off soap and hair with a dishwashing
brush in a basin of hot water. Clean off mineral
deposits with a toothbrush or small wire brush
and white vinegar.
Linkage
adjusting
bracket
3 Adjust the pop-up stopper mechanism by first

2 Remove the screws from the cover plate. Pull loosening the locknut on the lift rod. If the stopper
the trip lever and the linkage from the overflow doesn't close all the way, shorten the linkage by
opening. Clean off soap and hair with a dish screwing the rod ｾＢ＠ farther into the linkage-
scrubbing brush in a basin of hot water. Remove adjusting bracket. If the stopper doesn't open wide
mineral buildup with white vinegar and a wire enough, extend the linkage by unscrewing the rod
brush. Lubricate moving parts of the linkage and W'. Tighten the locknut before replacing the
rocker arm mechanism with heatproof grease. mechanism and testing your adjustment.
PLUMBING' Adjusting Bathtub or Shower Drainage 183

HOW TO CLEAR A SHOWER OR TUB DRAIN
\ ｾ＠ .. ,.
2 If you can't see and remove an obstruction in

the drain, try plunging. Position the plunger over
the drain opening. If using a force-cup type of
1 To plunge a shower drain, first remove the plunger, as seen above, fold the skirt up inside the
drain stopper equipment, including the strainer plunger head. Completely cover the plunger with
cover (if there is one) from the drain of a rub or water. Plunge rhythmically through half-a-dozen
shower. Pop the strainer out with a screwdriver, or ups and downs with increasing vigor, then yank up
remove a screw in the middle. Clear any hair from hard on the plunger. Repeat this cycle for up to 15
the pipe below the drain with a stiff bent wire. minutes. Promising signs: crud from the clog may
rise into the rub before the weight of the water
pushes the clog down the drain.
MAINTENANCE TIP
ike bathroom sinks,

L tubs and showers
face an ongoing
onslaught from soap
and hair. When paired,
th is pesky combination is a
sure-fire source of clogs. The
soap scum coagulates as it is
washed down the drain and
binds the hair together in a
mass that grows larger with
every shower or bath. To nip
these clogs in the bud, simply
pour boiling hot clean water
down the drain from time to
TIP: If you can't clear a srubborn clog with a time to melt the soapy mass
plunger, insert the tip of a hand auger into the and wash the binder away.
drain opening (see next page).
184 T H E COMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO HOMEOWNER BASICS

USING A HAND AUGER ON A SHOWER DRAIN
On shower drains, feed the

head of the auger in through
the drain opening after remov-
ing the strainer. Crank the han-
dle of the auger to extend the
cable and the auger head
down into the trap and, if the
clog is further downline,
toward the branch drain. When
clearing any drain, it is always
better to retrieve the clog than
to push it further downline.
USING A HAND AUGER ON A TUB DRAIN
On combination tub/show-
ers, it's generally easiest to
insert the auger through the
overflow opening after
removing the coverplate and
lifting out the drain linkage
(see pages 182 to 183 for
more information on drain
linkages). Crank the handle
of the auger to extend the
cable and the auger head
down into the trap and, if
the clog is further down line,
toward the branch drain.
When clearing any drain, it is
always better to retrieve the
clog than to push it further
down line.
PLUMBING' Adjusting Bathtub or Shower Drainage 185

Clearing Kitchen Sink Drains
10
Drain clearing isn't all drudgery and filth. Some people find the plunger
to be as much a tool of personal transformation as an implement for
removing clogs.
IT'S AWE E K TOP A Y DAY, and that austerity plan you've arranged with your creditors gives
you 67 dollars and change to last until then. Alas, the kitchen sink is clogged; you can't afford
a plumber! Don't despair-your enemy is merely a wad of coffee grounds and some bacon
fat. If plunging doesn't work, you'll go after it where it lives, remove the trap, look in the dis-
poser, explore the fixture drain with a hand auger. With the right tool, you are like Thor and
his thunderbolt, Zeus and his trident. You, we are confident, will locate the clog and break it
up or drag it into the light, slap it into a basin, and sluice its slimy spawn into the sewer with
a triumphant blast of tap water. You. Will. Win.
TIP: Avoid chemical clog removers. They can damage your pipes, your fixtures, and you, and
they don't work very well. They're so dangerous to people, in fact, that drain cleaning serv-
ices often charge extra if you've used them prior to their visit.

KITCH EN SI N KS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Slipnut
Tailpiece Clamp
tube
Channel-type
pliers
End
outlet T
Teflon tape
Kitchen sink drain components are usually connected with slipnuts, which means
everything from the tailpiece beneath a basket strainer to the trap arm can be
removed for cleaning. Clogs commonly occur in the trap bend and the end outlet
T. With the trap arm off, the fixture drain can be augered. Make sure your
beveled washers are facing the right direction when you put things back together.
Clogs can happen in the discharge tube and drain chamber of a disposer. The
impellers in the grinding chamber of a disposer can get stuck to the grinding ring
with tough or fibrous waste materials. The dishwasher drain hose should be
clamped where it joins the disposer if you wish to plunge the sink drain.
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
• Working with slip joints

• Plunging
• Flexibility
BASKET STRAINER-This is the typical strainer, plug, and drain found on a

kitchen sink that doesn't have a disposer.
TAILPIECE-takes the waste from the basket strainer to the trap.

DIFFICULTY LEVEL
GRINDING CHAMBER-the chamber visible through the drain of a disposer
where wastes are ground.
IMPELLER-one of two or four steel lugs on the metal plate at the bottom of a
disposer grinding chamber. Its function is to push food waste against the grind·
ing ring as the plate rotates.
HARD
GRINDING RING-a stationary, toothed ring at the bottom perimeter of the dis·
poser grinding chamber. Food wastes are ground against it until they are small Time: '1jz to 1'1jz hours.
enough to be washed into the drain chamber below.
PLUMBING' Clearing Kitchen Sink Drains 187

KITCHEN SINK STOPPED? CLEARING THE TRAP
PLUNGE IN AND BEYOND
1 Plunging a kitchen sink is not difficult, but

you need to create an uninterrupted pressure lock
between the plunger and the clog. If you have a
1 If plunging doesn't work, remove the trap
and clean it out. With the trap off, see if water
dishwasher, the drain tube needs to be clamped
flows freely from both sinks (if you have two).
shut and sealed off at the disposer or drainline.
Sometimes clogs will lodge in the T-fitting or one
The pads on the clamp should be large enough to
of the waste pipes feeding it. These may be pulled
flatten the tube across its full diameter (or you can
out manually or cleared with a bottlebrush or
clamp the tube ends between small boards).
wire. When reassembling the trap, apply Teflon
tape clockwise to the male threads of metal waste
pieces. Tighten with your channel-type pliers.
Plastic pieces need no tape and should be hand-
tightened only.
2 If there is a second basin, have a helper hold

a basket strainer plug in its drain or put a large pot
or bucket full of water on top of it. If you just set
the strainer plug in place, the pressure of your
plunging will pop the plug instead of the clog.
Unfold the skirt within the plunger and place this
in the drain of the sink you are plunging. There
should be enough water in the sink to cover the
plunger head. Plunge rhythmically for six repeti- 2 If you suspect the clog is downstream of the
tions with increasing vigor, pulling up hard on the trap, remove the trap arm from the fitting at the
last rep. Repeat this sequence until the clog or you wall. Look in the fixture drain with a penlight. If
are vanquished. Flush out a cleared clog with you see water, that means the fixture drain is
plenty of hot water. plugged. Clear it with a hand auger (page 185).

DISPOSER NOT GRINDING?
2 Unplug the disposer. Look for a wrench with

a hex shaped head that came with the disposer.
Stick this in a fitting in the base of the disposer.
This manipulates the metal plate that holds the
1 Press the reset bu tton located on the base of

impellers. Typically, some hard or fibrous object is
binding an impeller to the grinding ring. Rock the
the disposer and switch the appliance on. If the
plate back and forth with the w rench to unbind
motor hum s but cannot move, the grinders are
the impeller. You can also attempt to rotate the
clogged and need to be cleared.
plate from above by pushing against an impeller
w ith a broom handle.
DRAINING SLOWLY?
aste buildup in the drain chamber beneath

Unplug disposer before inserting tools
W the impeller disc can lead to a slow-drain-
ing disposer. Remove the discharge elbow from
the disposer body by withdrawing one or two
3 Look for and rem ove any material that's screws or bolts. These may require a screwdriver
or an adjustable wrench. Clear debris from the
keeping the metal plate from rotating. Make sure
the disposer is unplugged and then shine a light discharge elbow then shine a light into the drain
into the disposer and look for hard or fibrous chamber. Reach into the drain chamber with
needle nose pliers to remove any fibrous buildup.
debris between the im pellers and the g rinding
ring. Use needlenose pliers to pull debris free.
PLUMBING· Cle a ring K i tchen Sink Drains 189
Fixing Leaky Sink Strainers
11
If your waste water takes a wrong turn on the way to the sewer, it may be
time to reseat, or replace, your sink strainer.
THE SINK STRAINER IS THE PERFORATED BASKET IN THE BOTTOM OF YOUR
KITCHEN SINK THAT CATCHES SPAGHETTI AND BROCCOLI SPEARS BEFORE THEY
D I V E DOW NTH E DR A IN. If your sink is simply not holding water, you may need to replace
only the basket. These are available at any hardware store. If water is leaking onto the floor
in the cabinet, you may need to reseat or replace the sink strainer body. A replacement
includes the basket and the metal well that cradles the basket and forms a seal with your sink
and the drain pipe.
FIXING A LEAKY SINK STRAINER TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
1 Clear out the cabinet under the

sink. Unscrew slipnuts from both
ends of the drain tailpiece with 2 Loosen the locknut with a
channel-type pliers. Lower the tail- spud wrench or channel-type pli-
ers. Unthread the locknut com-
piece into the trap bend or remove
the tailpiece. NOT E: If you have a pletely, then push the strainer body
double sink and your tailpiece is up out of the sink.
very short, you may need to loosen
slipnuts elsewhere and remove a
larger piece of the drain assembly
to access the strainer body.
3 Remove old putty from the

drain opening with a putty knife. If
reusing the old strainer body, clean 4 From under the sink, place the
off the old putty from under the rubber gasket and the friction washer
flange. Knead plumber's putty into over the strainer body and secure the SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
a snake shape and apply to the lip body to the sink deck with the lock-
of the drain opening. Press the nut. Tap the nubs on the locknut with • Using wrenches
strainer body into the drain open- a screwdriver to tighten it. Reattach • Putty rolling
ing. Any writing on the strainer the drain by tightening the slipnut
over the threaded end of the tailpiece. • Making slip-joint connections
should be read from the front.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
PLUMBER'S PUTTY-a clay-like material used to seal metal hardware to the sink.
TEFLON TAPE-a thin white tape used to lubricate and seal threaded fittings
and keep them from sticking together.
MODERATE
PIPE JOINT COMPOUND-a paste that may be used instead of Teflon tape.
Time : 1/2 to 1 hour plus shopping
BASKET STRAINER-another name for a sink strainer.
PLUMBING' Fixing Leaky Sink Strainers 191

Clearing Clogged
Floor Drains
When the going gets tough, the tough rent power tools. The medium duty
auger shown here is perfect for augering the 2-inch-diameter floor drain-
lines and branch drainlines.
WHEN PLUNGERS AND HAND AUGERS MEET A CLOG THEY CAN'T DISLODGE,
you have one more DIY option before you call a professional drain cleaning service. Most
rental centers stock power augers in several sizes. These electric tools work in much the same
manner as a hand auger, but with much more tenacity. With spear tools, cutting tools, and
spring tools, they can push or cut through a clog, or snag an object and drag it out from your
floor or branch drainline.
Always read the instructions carefully and be sure to get through operating instructions at
the rental center. If used improperly, power augers can cause major damage to your plumb-
ing system. They are designed to be inserted beyond the trap or through cleanouts in the
drainline, so they do not need to be forced through the drain trap. Never run a power auger
through a toilet- it could scratch the porcelain or even break the fixture.
POWER AUGERING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Floor drains can develop
extremely robust clogs,
especially if tne drain
cover is absent. A power
auger tnat's inserted
tnrougn tne cleanout
opening can travel 50
feet or more to nunt
down and remove stub-
born clogs. Tnese rental
tools come in several
sizes and may also be
used to clear tub/snow-
er drainlines, brancn
drainlines and even a 3-
to 4-incn diameter soil
stack or nouse drain.
TOOL TIP
..-_---.=-:.-_- "T'-----, Heavy

ower augers can be fitted witn tnree
P different nead styles. Tne spring tool is
ＺＭ
- - --
-:-=-=-:.-
- --
ｾ＠
leather
gloves ,
affixed to the cable end to snag and
retrieve an obstruction. The spear tool is
used to penetrate a clog and puncture it to
Spear tool
create a starter hole for tne cutting tool,
which can cut apart very resistant clogs Cutter tool
(often tree roots). SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
• Driving to rental center
• Exercising caution
TRAP-a U-shaped bend of drain pipe behind or under every fixture . It's always
full of water to keep sewer gases from rising into the house. If possible, remove
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
the trap before augering the drainline to a fixture . With the floor drain, you
bypass the trap by opening a cleanout plug.
CLEAN OUTS-are access ports in drain pipes kept covered with threaded caps.
CLEANING TOOL-the spring, spear, or cutter attached to the tip of a cable

auger. These are intercnangeable.
EASY MODERATE
BRANCH OR FIXTURE DRAIN-the run of pipe in the wall or floor that drains a
fixture (except a toilet) . It's usually 1112 to 2-inches in diameter. It may join with a Time: 112 to 1 hour plus renting
toilet drain, a stack, or the house drain . equipment
PLUMBING - Clearing Clogged Floor Drains 193

HOW TO POWER-AUGER A FLOOR DRAIN
THE LOWDOWN ON THE LOW DOWN:
f you choose to auger a larger line, you may

I find yourself opening a clean out with 10 or 20
vertical feet of waste water behind it. Be careful.
The cap may unexpectedly burst open when it's
.. -
••• • I
loose enough, spewing noxious waste water

uncontrollably over anything in its path, includ-
..
• •• •
fee Ｎｾ＠
ing you! Here are some precautions:

Whenever possible, remove a trap or cleanout
close to the top of the backed-up water level.
1
.
• •••
•• •
--
Remove the cover from the floor drain using
Run your auger through this. Make sure the
auger and its electric connections will not get
a slotted or Phillips screwdriver. On one wall of
wet should waste water spew forcefully from the the drain bowl you'll see a cleanout plug. Remove
cleanout opening. the cleanout plug from the drain bowl with your
largest channel-type pliers. This cleanout allows
Use the spear tool on the power auger first,
you to bypass the trap. If it's stuck, apply penetrat-
to let the water drain out through a smaller
ing oil to the threads and let it sit a half an hour
hole before widening it with a larger cutting
before trying to free it again. If the wrench won't
tool. If you are augering through a 3- or 4-inch
free it, rent a large pipe wrench from your home
cleanout, use three bits: the spear, a small cutter,
center or hardware store. You can also auger
and then a larger cutter to do the best job.
through the trap if you have to.
3 Wear close-fitting clothing and contain long

hair. Place the power auger machine in a dry loca-
tion within three feet of the drain opening. Plug the
tool into a grounded, Ground Fault Interrupted
(GFI) protected circuit. Put on eye protection and
gloves; you will be holding a rotating metal cable
and may be exposed to dangerous bacteria and caus-
2 Rent an electric drum auger with at least 50 feet tic drain cleaning chemicals. Position the footswitch
of Vz-inch cable. The rental company should provide where it is easy to actuate; visualize using the
a properly sized, grounded extension cord, heavy machine without having to overreach the rotating
leather gloves, and eye protection. The auger should drum or exposed belts. Make sure the FOR / REV
come with a spear tool, cutter tool, and possibly a switch is in the Forward position (inset photo).
spring-tool suitable for a 2-inch drainline. Attach Hand feed the cleaning tool and some cable into the
the spearhead first (with the machine unplugged). drain or cleanout before turning the machine on.
4 Stationary power augers (as opposed to pistol-
grip types) are controlled by a foot pedal called an
actuator so you can turn the power on and off
hands-free.
5 With both gloved hands on the cable, depress
the foot acruator to start the machine. Gradually
push the rotating cable into the drain opening. If
the rotation slows or you cannot feed more cable
into the drain, pull back on the cable before push-
ing it forward again. Don't force it. The cable
needs to be rotating whenever the motor is run-
ning or it can kink and buckle, destroying the
cable (although a clutch on the drum should pre-
vent this). If the cleaning tool becomes sruck, turn
the FOR / REV switch to Reverse and back the tool
off the obstruction before switching back to
Forward again.
6 Gradually work through the clog by pulling
• .. .
back on the cable whenever the machine starts to
bog down and pushing it forward again when it .
( ....... .. ..
gains new momentum. Again, never let the cable
stop ruming when the motor is running. When you .• ..• '-
• •
ＺＮｾ＠
have broken through the clog (or if you are using • ..ft• ••
the spring head and believe you have snagged an • •• •
object) withdraw the cable from the line. Manually
pull the cable from the drain line while continuing
to run the drum Forward. If it's practical, have a 7 After clearing the drain pipe, run the auger
helper hose off the cable as its withdrawn and through the trap. Finish cleaning the auger. Wrap
recoiled. When the cleaning tool is close to the Teflon tape clockwise onto the plug threads and
drain opening, release the foot acruator and let the replace the plug. Run hot water through a hose from
cable come to a stop before feeding the remaining the laundry sink or use a bucket to flush remaining
two or three feet of cable into the drum by hand. debris through the trap and down the line.
PLUMBING' Clearing Clogged Floor Drains 195
Adding a Shower to a Tub
13 ...J
Converting a plain bathtub into a tub/shower is a relatively easy task

when you use a flexible shower adapter that fits onto a special replace-
ment tub spout.
FORG ET TH E LAZY 8 TRUCK STOP. Forget the locker room at the health club. You may
be able to enjoy the luxury of a real shower right in your own home or apartment. If you
have an old built-in tub but no shower, we'll show you how you can remove the spout and
replace it with one equipped with an adapter hose outlet. A flexible shower hose can be
screwed to this. We'll also show you how to install a mounting bracket so you can hang the
showerhead and free up your hands. Add a telescoping shower curtain rod and a shower
curtain and your new shower stall is ready for duty.
SHOWER ADAPTERS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
The appearance of the spout gives good clues as to which kind of nipple it is
connected to. A) Spout with no diverter is probably connected to a 3" long
threaded nipple. To install a diverter spout you'll need to replace the 3" threaded
nipple with a shorter threaded nipple that sticks out no more than 1h" from the
wall-not too big of a job. B) If the spout already has a diverter knob, it already
has a showerhead, and you're doing the wrong project (although there is no
reason you couldn't hook up a shower adapter if you want a handheld shower).
C) If the spout has a small setscrew in a slot on the underside, it is probably
attached with a slip fitting to a 1h" copper supply nipple. Unless you are able to
solder a new transition fitting onto the old pipe after cutting it, call a plumber to
install the new spout here. D) Spouts with outlets for shower adapters require a
short threaded nipple (or comparable union) that sticks out from the wall no SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
more than :V4".
• Making pipe connections
• Cutting tile or tileboard
• Working with wall anchors

DIFFICULTY LEVEL
NIP PLE-a short piece of iron or brass pipe that's threaded on both ends.
It may be unscrewed from the wall.
COPPER STUB-a short piece of copper pipe with or without a threaded adapter
on the end. It cannot be unscrewed from the wall.
REDUCING BUSHING-a little piece of pipe with interior and exterior threads.
EASY MODERATE
In this case, to allow a :V4-inch tub spout to screw onto a 'V2-inch nipple.
Time: 1 to 2 hours
TEFLON TAPE-a white or thin tape wound on pipe threads to seal and
lubricate the joint.
PLUMBING· Adding a Shower to a Tub 197

HOW TO ADD A SHOWER WITH AN ADAPTER SPOUT
TOOL TIP
long-bl aded screwdriver or a dowe l inserted

A into the mouth of the spout can be used to
spin the spout free from the nipple.
1 Make sure the old spout is not held in place

with a setscrew (see previous page) and then
remove it by wrapping it with a cloth and turning
the spout with channel-type pliers or a pipe
wrench .
2 If you have a long iron or brass nipple like this,

you need to replace it with a short one. Threaded
nipples have threads at each end, so you can usually
unscrew the old ones. Mark the nipple at the face of 3 Wrap six layers of Teflon tape clockwise on
the wall and write "front" on your side. Unscrew it the nipple and thread into the wall. Thread the
counterclockwise with a pipe wrench. Get a thread- reducing bushing onto the nipple if it will fit.
ed brass nipple of the same diameter that is about Thread the adapter spout on. Tighten further
half an inch longer than the distance from the back with a screwdriver or dowel to orient the
of your old nipple to your line. spout correctly.
5 Determine the location of showerhead brack-
4 Attach flexible shower hose to the adapter et. Use hose length as a guide, and make sure
hose outlet. Tighten with an adjustable wrench. showerhead can be easily lifted off the bracket.
6 Mark hole locations. Obtain a glass-and-tile

drill bit for your electric drill in the size recom- 7 Insert anchors into holes, and tap in place
mended by the shower bracket manufacturer. Put with a wooden or rubber mallet. Fasten shower-
on eye protection and drill holes in ceramic tile on head holder to the wall using a Phillips screwdriv-
your marks. er and the mounting screws.
PLUMBING· Adding a Shower to a Tub 199
Replacing Bathtub Spouts
The bathtub spout may need replacing for many reasons, including a failed
diverter like the one above. You also may want to add a flexible shower
adapter (see pages 196 to 199), or the old spout could just be disgusting
beyond repair.
IN MANY SITUATIONS, REPLACING A BATHTUB SPOUT can be almost as easy

as hooking up a garden hose to an outdoor spigot. There are some situations where
it is a bit more difficult, but still pretty simple. The only time it's a real problem is
when the spout is attached to a plain copper supply nipple, rather than a threaded
nipple. You'll know this is the case if the spout has a setscrew on the underside
where it meets the wall. Many bathtub spouts are sold in kits with a matching show-
erhead and handle or handles. But for a simple one-for-one replacement, spouts are
sold separately. You just need to make sure the new spout is compatible with the
existing nipple (see pages 202 and 203 ).
TUB SPOUTS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Gate
diverter
In many bathtub/shower plumbing systems, the spout has the important job of
housing the diverter switch-a gate inside the spout that is operated by a lever
with a knob for pulling. When the gate is open, water comes out of the spout
when the faucet is turned on . When the diverter is pulled shut, the water is
redirected up a riser pipe and to the showerhead. Failure of the diverter is one
of the most common reasons for replacing a spout. SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
• Using ch annel-t y pe pliers
• Tr acking the order and arrangement

TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW of p art s
TUB SPOUT GATE DIVERTER-a knob-operated gate valve on the tip of a tub
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
spout. When it's pulled up, water cannot pass through the spout and is forced to
rise to the showerhead.
HANDLE·OPERATED DIVERTER VALVE-the diverter valve behind the central

handle on a three-handle faucet. It uses a compression stem and washer or a car-
tridge to divert water from the spout so the shower can be used.
MODERATE
Time: 1 hour plus research and shopping
PLUMBING· Replacing Bathtub Spouts 201

HOW TO REPLACE A SLIP-FIT SPOUT
2 Clean the copper nipple with steel wool. If

1 Check underneath the tub spout to look for you find any sharp edges where the nipple was
an access slot or cutout, which indicates the spout cut, smooth them out with em ery paper. T hen ,
is a slip-fit style that is held in place with a insert th e O-ring that comes with spout onto the
setscrew and mounted on a copper supply nipple. nipple (see the manufacturer's instructions) and
Loosen the screw with a hex (Allen) wrench. Pull slide the spout body over the nipple in an upside-
off the spout. down position.
3 With the spout upside down for ease of 4 Spin the spout so it's right-side up and then
access, tighten the setscrews on the clamp, working tighten the setscrew from below, making sure the
through the access slot or cutout, until you wall end of the spout is flush against the wall. Do
feel resistance. not overtighten the setscrew.

HOW TO REPLACE A THREADED SPOUT
TOOL TIP
lternatively, grip the spout with a padded

A pipe wrench or channel-type pliers. Buy a
compatible replacement spout at a home center
or hardware store.
1 If you see no setscrew or slot on the under-

side of the spout, it is attached to a threaded nip-
ple. Unscrew the tub spout by inserting a
heavy-duty flat screwdriver into the spout open-
ing and spinning it counterclockwise.
Copper nipple with

threaded adapter
3 Twist the new spout onto the nipple until it

is flush against the wall and the spout is oriented
2 Wrap several courses of Teflon tape clock-

properly. If the spout falls short of six 0' clock, you
may protect the finish of the spout with tape and
wise onto the pipe threads of the nipple. Using
twist it a little beyond hand tight with your
extra Teflon tape on the threads creates resistance
channel-type pliers- but don't over do it; the
if the spout tip points past six o'clock when tight.
fitting can crack.
PLUMBING' Replacing Bathtub Spouts 203

Replacing Widespread
Bathroom Faucets
15
Three-piece (widespread) faucets are as classy as a good three-piece suit,

and the styles are virtually unlimited.
WIDESPREAD FAUCETS COME IN THREE PIECES INSTEAD OF ONE: a hot tap, a cold
tap, and the spout. Each piece is mounted separately in its own hole in the sink. The hot and
cold taps (valves) are connected to hot and cold water supplies respectively. The spout is con-
nected to the valves with reinforced flexible hoses. The great advantage to this configuration
is that you gain flexibility when locating your spout and handles. If your faucet set has a long
enough hose, you can even create arrangements such as locating the handles near one end of
the tub and the spout near the other so you can turn the water on and off or adjust the tem-
perature without getting up. Even models made for bathroom lavatories, like the one you see
here, offer many creative configuration options.
TIP: Save your paperwork. Should you ever need to service your faucet, the product litera-
ture will be useful for troubleshooting and identifYing and replacing parts.
WIDESPREAD FAUCETS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Widespread faucets come in three pieces, a spout and two valves. Supply risers
carry hot and cold water to the valves, which are turned to regulate the amount of
water going to the spout, where the water is mixed. Water travels from the valves SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
to the spout through flex tubes, which attach to the spout tailpiece via aT-fitting.
• Using a basin wench
Three-piece faucets designed to work with a pop-up stopper have a clevis and a
• Working in confined spaces
lift rod (see pages 228 to 229). The handles attach with handle screws that are • Making compression unions
covered with index caps. An aerator is screwed on the faucet spout after debris is
flushed from the faucet.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
PLUMBER ' S PUTTY-a soft clay-like material used to seal faucet parts to sink parts.
TEFLON TAPE-a thin, white tape used to lubricate and seal threaded fittings.
EASY MODERATE
PI PE JOI NT COM POU N D-a paste that may be used instead of Teflon tape.
Time: 1 to 3 hours
LA VATORY-another name for a bathroom sink.
PLUMBING' Replacing Widespread Bathroom Faucets 205

HOW TO REMOVE A WIDESPREAD FAUCET
Stop
valve
2 Unthread the compression nuts that connect

the hot and cold supply risers to the stop valves. If
a compression nut is frozen, stabilize the valve
body with another wrench before applying more
1 Clear out the cabinet under the sink and lay force.
down towels. Turn off the hot and cold stop
valves, and open the hot and cold taps. If you have
difficulty turning the water off, turn to page 134.
Sink deck seen in

cutaway for clarity
Mounting
nuts
Coupling
nuts
4 Using a basin wrench, disconnect all three

3 Remove the coupling nuts holding the risers mounting nuts holding the rwo faucet handles and
to the supply tubes from the faucet, stabilizing the the spout. You may need to have somebody hold
tubes with a second wrench. Don't reuse old the spout or valve steady from above. Remove the
metal supply risers; the soft metal ends have been old faucet parts and clean the installation area in
press-formed to the supply tubes of the old faucet. preparation for the new faucet.

HOW TO INSTALL A WIDESPREAD FAUCET
Spout shank
Spout
Sink deck
Plumber's
ｾＭ putty
Retainer/
spacer
- Mounting nut
1 Insert the shank of the faucet spout through

one of the holes in the sink deck (usually the cen-
ter hole but you can offset it in one of the end
holes if you prefer). If the faucet is not equipped
with seals or O-rings for the spout and handles,
pack plumber's putty on the undersides before
inserting the valves into the deck. NOT E: If you Sink deck seen in
cutaway for clarity
are installing the widespread faucet in a new sink
deck, drill three holes of the size suggested by the
faucet manufacrurer (see page 204 for tips on
locating the holes).
2 In addition to mounting nuts, many spout
valves for widespread faucets have an open retain-
er fitting that goes between the underside of the
deck and the mounting nut. Others have only a
mounting nut. In either case, tighten the mount-
ing nut with pliers or a basin wrench to secure the
spout valve. You may need a helper to keep the
spout centered and facing forward.
Spout shank
3 Mount the valves to the deck using whichever

method the manufacrurer specifies (it varies quite 4 From below, thread the mounting nuts that
a bit). In the model seen here, a mounting ring is secure the valves to the sink deck. Make sure the
positioned over the deck hole (with plumber's cold water valve (usually has a blue cartridge
putty seal) and the valve is inserted from below. A inside) is in the right-side hole (from the front)
clip snaps onto the valve from above to hold it in and the hot water valve (red cartridge) is in the
place temporarily (you'll want a helper for this). left hole. Install both valves.
PLUMBING· Replacing Widespread Bathroom Faucets 207

HOW TO INSTALL A WIDESPREAD FAUCET (CONTINUED)
Water
outlet
(hot)
5 Once you've started the nut on the threaded 6 Attach the flexible supply tubes (supplied
with the faucet) to the water outlets on the valves.
valve shank, secure the valve with a basin wrench Some rwist onto the outlets, but others (like the
squeezing the lugs where the valve fits against the ones above) click into place. The supply hoses
deck. Use an adjustable wrench to finish tighten- meet in a T-fitting that is attached to the water
ing the lock nut onto the valve. The valves should inlet on the spout.
be oriented so the water outlets are aimed at the
inlet on the spout shank.
8 Attach the spout. The model shown here

comes with a special hex wrench that is threaded
through the hole in the spout where the lift rod
7 Attach flexible braided metal supply risers to for the pop-up drain will be located. Once the
the water stop valves and then attach the tubes to spout is seated cleanly on the spout shank you
the inlet port on each valve (usually with Teflon tighten the hex wrench to secure the spout.
tape and a rwist-on fitting at the valve end of the Different faucets will use other methods to secure
supply riser) . the spout to the shank.
Clevis
Clevis strap
9 If your sink did not have a pop-up stopper,

10 Attach the clevis strap to the pivot rod
that enters the pop-up drain body and adjust the
you 'll need to replace the sink drain tailpiece with position of the strap so it raises and lowers prop-
a pop-up stopper body (often supplied with the erly when the lift rod is pulled up. Tighten the cle-
faucet). See pages 228 to 231. Insert the lift rod vis screw at this point. It's hard to fit a screwdriver
through the hole in the back of the spout and, in here, so you may need to use a wrench or pliers.
from below, thread the pivot rod through the
hOUSing for the clevis screw.
11 Attach the faucet handles to the valves

using whichever method is required by the faucet
manufacturer. Most faucets are designed with reg-
istration methods to ensure that the handles are 12 Turn on the water supply and test the
symmetrical and oriented in an ergonomic way faucet. Remove the faucet aerator so any debris in
once you secure them to the valves. the lines can clear the spout.
PLUMBING' Replacing Widespread Bathroom Faucets 209
In sta II in 9 New
Bathroom Faucets
16
Standard one-handle, deck-mounted bathroom faucets are interchange-
able with two-handle models, fitting in the same two or three holes in the
bathroom sink.
ONE-PIECE BATHROOM FAUCETS ARE EASY TO REPLACE. They're attached to the

sink with a couple of mounting nuts and to the water supply with coupling nuts. With the
faucet gone, you'll be looking at two or three holes in the faucet deck. The outside holes take
tailpieces or mounting posts for the faucet, and the middle hole is for the pop-up stopper
lift rod. The outside holes are spaced four inches apart and will accept any standard deck-
mounted, one-piece bathroom faucet, except if you don't have a middle hole, you can't have
one with a pop-up stopper. We'd advise you to buy a heavy, quality faucet made of brass
(chrome or another metal on the outside). Cheap chromed-plastic faucets tend to wear out
at the handle attachments, and chrome-plated steel tends to rust. Faucets usually come with
a pop-up stopper mechanism. We show you how to replace these on pages 228 to 231.

ONE-PIECE FAUCETS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
The tailpieces of a stan-
Pop-up stopper
Handl.
11ft rod /"P"'U, dard deck-mounted,
one-piece bathroom sink
Handl.
Aerator faucet are 4" apart on
center. As long as the
two outside holes in the Eye protection
back of your sink meas-
11.2" coupling nuts

ure 4" from center to
center, and you have a
middle hole for a pop-up
stopper, you can put in Channel-
type pliers
any standard one-piece
bathroom faucet with
pop-up stopper.
The faucet is secured to
the sink with mounting
Adjustable Screwdrivers
nuts that screw onto the wrench
Braided stainless
steel supply lines
tailpieces from below.
Also get two flexible
Heat proof Loctite
grease
stainless steel supply ris-
Stop valvesL--H- -,
ers for sinks, long enough
to replace the old tubes.
These typically attach to
the stop valves with %-inch compression-sized coupling nuts and to the
faucet with standard faucet coupling nuts. But take your old tubes and the
Basin wrench
old compression nuts from the stop valves to the store to ensure a match.
The clevis, lift rod, and pivot rod are parts of the pop-up stopper assembly.
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
(Replaced on pages 126 to 129.) The handles attach with handle screws that
are covered with index caps. An aerator is screwed on the faucet spout after • Making plumbing connections
debris is flushed from the faucet. • Ability to work in confined space

DIFFICULTY LEVEL
PLUMBER'S PUTTY-a soft day-like material used to seal faucet parts to sink parts.
TEFLON TAPE-a thin white tape used to lubricate and seal threaded fittings.
DECK·MOUNTED FAUCET -another name for a one-piece faucet.
MODERATE
LAVATORY-another name for a bathroom sink.
TIME: 1 to 2 hours plus shopping
PLUMBING' Installing New Bathroom Faucets 211

HOW TO REPLACE A ONE-PIECE FAUCET
2 Put on protective eyewear! Debris will be
1 Clear out the cabinet under the sink and lay

falling in your face. Loosen the clevis screw (coun-
terclockwise) holding the clevis srrap to the 1m
down towels. Turn off the hot and cold stop
rod. Remove the mounting nuts on the tailpieces
valves and open the faucet. Unscrew the compres-
of the faucet with a basin wrench or channel-type
sion nuts that are holding the hot and cold supply
pliers. If the mounting nuts are rusted in place,
rubes in the stop valves. Remove the coupling nuts
apply penetrating oil, let stand ten minutes, and
holding the supply rubes to the tailpieces of the
try again. TIP: Attach locking pliers to the basin
faucet and remove the rubes.
wrench handle for greater leverage.
3 Pull the faucet body from the sink. Scrape off 4 Most faucets come with a plastic or foam gas-
old putty or caulk with a putty knife and clean off ket to seal the bottom of the faucet to the sink
the sink with a scouring pad and an acidic scour- deck. These gaskets will not always form a water-
ing cleaner like Barkeeper's Friend. Take your old tight seal. If you want to ensure no splash water
supply rubes and the stop valve compression nuts gets below the sink, discard the seal and press a ring
to the home center so you'll know what size of plumber's putty into the sealant groove built into
flexible supply risers to get. the underside of the faucet body
Clevis screw
Flexible
sink supply
riser
5 Insert the faucet tailpieces through the holes

in the sink. From below, thread washers and
mounting nuts over the tailpieces, then tighten the
mounting nuts with a basin wrench until snug. Put
a dab of pipe joint compound on the threads of the 6 Slide the lift rod of the new faucet into its
stop valves and thread the metal nuts of the flexible hole behind the spout. Thread it into the clevis
supply risers to these. Wrench tighten about a half past the clevis screw. Push the pivot rod all the way
rum past hand tight. Overtightening these nuts will down so the stopper is open. With the lift rod also
strip the threads. Now tighten the coupling nuts to all the way down, tighten the clevis to the lift rod.
the faucet tailpieces with a basin wrench.
8 Unscrew the aerator from the end of the

7 Grease the fluted valve stems with heatproof spout. Turn the hot and cold water taps on full.
grease, then put the handles in place. Put a drop of Turn the water back on at the stop valves and
Loctite on each handle screw before tightening it flush out the faucet for a couple of minutes before
on. (This will keep your handles from coming ruming off the water at the faucet. Check the riser
loose). Cover each handle screw with the appropri - connections for drips. Tighten a compression nut
ate index cap--Hot or Cold. only until the drip stops.
PLUMBING· Installing New Bathroom Faucets 213
Replacing Kitchen Sprayers
17
When most of us think of kitchen sprayers, the image that comes to mind
doesn't closely resemble the powerful stream of accurately directed water
that's cleansing the fresh apples in the photo above. For a variety of rea-
sons, sink sprayers seldom seem to function as designed. But improving
the performance of your kitchen sprayer is a simple job with a high likeli-
hood of success.
IF THE FLOW TO YOUR SPRAYER IS WEAK, first make sure the hose under the sink isn't
kinked. If the hose is damaged, you will need to replace the hose and sprayer. If the screen
at the base of the sprayer is clogged with debris, remove it and flush it clean . If you dislodged
other parts from the base of the sprayer, clean these and put them back in the order in which
they were removed. If the sprayer leaks from the base, replace the neoprene washer. If the
sprayer doesn't turn off fully, replace the sprayer. If water isn't fully diverted from spout to
sprayer, you may need to replace the diverter.

KITCHEN SPRAYERS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
When you squeeze the lever

on your properly functioning
kitchen sprayer, water flows
/ Sprayer head
out through the sprayer head,
which causes a diverter valve
in the faucet to close off
water to the spout.
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
• Making pip e conn e ction s
• Wor king with putty
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
EASY MODERATE
Older spray hoses are easy to work with-you simply grasp the sprayer head
Time: About an hour
and twist counterclockwise. The screen inside can then be removed and
cleaned or replaced. Twist the sprayer head back on in a clockwise direction.
PLUMBING· Replacing Kitchen Sprayers 215

HOW TO REPLACE A SPRAYER DIVERTER VALVE
1 Shut off the water at the stop valves and 2 Locate the diverter valve, seen here at the
remove the faucet handle to gain access to the base of the valve body. Because different types and
faucet parts. Disassemble the faucet handle and brands of faucets have differently configured
body to expose the diverter valve. Ball-type diverters, do a little investigating beforehand to try
faucets like the one shown here require that you and locate information about your faucet. The
also remove the spout to get at the diverter. above faucet is a ball type (see page 152).
4 Coat the washer or O-ring on the new or

cleaned diverter valve with heatproof grease.
Insert the diverter valve back into the faucet
body. Reassemble the faucet. Turn on the water
3 Pull the diverter valve from the faucet body and test the sprayer. If it still isn't functioning to
with needlenose pliers. Use a toothbrush dipped your satisfaction, remove the sprayer tip and run
in white vinegar to clean any lime buildup from the sprayer without the filter and aerator in case
the valve. If the valve is in poor condition, bring it any debris has made its way into the sprayer
to the hardware store and purchase a replacement. line during repairs.

HOW TO REPLACE A KITCHEN SPRAYER
1 To replace a sprayer hose , start by shutting off

2 Unscrew the mounting nut of the old sprayer
the water at the shutoff valves. Clear out the cabi-
from below and remove the old sprayer body.
net under your sink and put on eye protection.
Clean the sink deck and then apply plumber's
Unthread the coupling nut that attaches the old
putty to the base of the new sprayer. Insert the
hose to a nipple or tube below the faucet spout.
new sprayer tailpiece into the opening in the
Use a basin wrench if you can't get your channel-
sink deck.
type pliers on the nut.
4 Screw the coupling for the sprayer hose onto

3 From below, slip the friction washer up over the hose nipple underneath the faucet body. For a
the sprayer tailpiece. Screw the mounting nut good seal, apply pipe joint compound to the nipple
onto the tailpiece and tighten with a basin threads first. Tighten the coupling with a basin
wrench or channel-type pliers. Do not over- wrench, turn on the water supply at the shutoff
tighten. Wipe away any excess plumber'S putty. valves, and test the new sprayer.
PLUMBING' Replacing Kitchen Sprayers 217

Repairing Burst Pipes
18
Water supply pipes can burst for many reasons, but the most common
cause is water freezing and expanding inside the pipe. First turn off the
water, then apply a fix.
I F A WATE R PIP E F R E E Z E 5 AN D B R EA KS, your first priority may be getting it working

again- whatever it takes. There are a number of temporary fix products out there, some
involving clamps and sleeves, others, epoxy putties and fiberglass tape. These repairs usually
can get you through a weekend okay. We also show you how to apply full slip repair
couplings, a more permanent fix. Whatever repair approach you take, please, please,
please, don't leave for the store without first determining a) the diameter of your pipe and
b) the material of your pipe.

WATER PIPE REPAIR PRODUCTS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Plumber's epoxy putty may stem a

leak at a fitting, at least partially or
temporarily. Fiberglass tape with
polyurethane resin can produce a
durable patch; it's sometimes used
in conjunction with epoxy putty. A
clamp and sleeve is quick and cheap.
A full slip repair coupling is the
closest to a permanent fix, but it
requires straight and unblemished
pipes of the right diameter and
material. All of these products
require that you carefully follow
manufacturer's directions, or they
simply will not work.
WARNING: A damaged pipe section
with a patch should be replaced as
soon as possible. Because of the
natural movement of pipes, patches
may leak again in time.
If a water supply pipe bursts, your

first stop should be a shutoff. If
there is a shutoff near the burst
pipe, go ahead and turn off the SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
water there or shut off the water
• Using a tubing cutter
to the whole house (right). Open
faucets on every floor of the house • Making a compression joint
to drain the supply system if your

repair product requires dry pipe.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
OUTSIDE DIAMETER-clamps and slip couplings require that you know the out-
side diameter of the pipe. Close an adjustable wrench on the pipe then measure
the distance between the jaws. MODERATE
PIPE MATERIAL-Certain repair products work on certain pipe types. Make sure
Time: a few minutes plus shopping
you know yours before heading out to the home center.
PLUMBING· Repairing Burst Pipes 219

HOW TO APPLY A SLEEVE AND CLAMP REPAIR KIT
2 Center rubber sleeve of repair clamp over the

1 Make temporary repairs to a burst copper rupture. If the sleeve enfolds the pipe, the seam
should be opposite the rupture.
supply pipe with a sleeve clamp repair kit, avail-
able at most hardware stores. With the water sup-
ply shut off at the main, smooth out any rough
edges around the damage with a metal file.
4 Tighten the screws with a Phillips screwdriv-

er. Open water supply and watch for leaks. If it
does leak, start from the beginning with the sleeve
3 Place the two metal repair clamps around in a slightly different place. Have the section of
the sleeve. ruptured pipe replaced as soon as possible.

HOW TO APPLY A REPAIR COUPLING
TO A COPPER PIPE
2 Lightly tighten the tubing cutter onto the

pipe on a cutting line. Both wheels of the cutter
should rest evenly on the pipe. Rotate the cutter
around the pipe. The line it cuts should make a
1 For a longer-lasting (not permanent) repair, perfect ring, not a spiral. Tighten the cutter a lit-
use a compression-fit, full slip repair coupling tle with each rotation until the pipe snaps.
(these come with parts to make a compression Repeat at your other mark.
union- you can also buy a slip coupling that's just
a piece of copper tubing with an inside diameter
equal to the outside diameter of the tubing being
repaired, but these require soldering). Turn off
water at the meter. Mark the boundaries of the
pipe to be replaced. This should include pipe
beyond the damaged area. The cutout section
must fall within the bare copper section of the
repair coupling.
R.... lr
coupling
Compression
union
4 Slip the compression nuts and rings supplied

with the repair coupling onto the cut ends of the
pipe being repaired and then slip the repair cou-
pling over one end. Slide the coupling further
onto the pipe and then slide it back the other way
so it fits over the other pipe section and the repair
area is centered inside the coupling. Tighten each
3 Deburr the inside of the pipes with the trian- compression nut with pliers while stabilizing the
gular blade on the tubing cutter. coupling with an adjustable wrench.
PLUMBING· Repairing Burst Pipes 221
Replacing Kitchen Faucets
19
Kitchen faucets don't last forever: in styling or in function. When it's time
for you to say goodbye to yours, take comfort in knowing that if you
choose one that's the same configuration, the project is quite simple.
MOST MODERN KITCHEN SINK FAUCETS ARE DECK MOUNTED, which means the
bulk of the faucet sits on top of the back rim of the sink or counter. Typically, these faucets
attach to the sink or counter and to their hot and cold water supplies through three holes. A
fourth hole may hold a kitchen sprayer. Standard kitchen sinks (or pre-drilled counters) have
three or four holes spaced 4" apart. It's best to look for a new faucet that uses the same num-
ber of holes as your current model, although any old holes that aren't used may be covered
with a cap or a stand-alone accessory; like a liquid soap dispenser, that doesn't require addi-
tional plumbing work (there are several plumbed options, too, such as a water filter spout
and a dishwasher air gap).
KITCHEN SINK FAUCETS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
/ Sprayer head
Sprayer
base
hose
Stop
valve
In this section, we show you how to install one of the most popular faucet types
for home use: a single-lever kitchen sink faucet with hose sprayer, configured
for a four-hole sink with standard 4-inch spacing between the holes. If the
faucet you want to install isn't quite the same type as this, keep reading any-
way. The basic installation requirements are the same: the faucet body must be
secured firmly to the sink or counter, and the hot and cold supply tubes must
be connected to the hot and cold water supplies.
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
• Working with tools in tight spots

TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW • Making compression joints
COMPRESSION FITTING-a way of attaching copper tubes to stop valves.
FLEXIBLE SUPPLY LINES-flexible hoses that are used to attached to the hot
and cold stop valves.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
PLUMBER'S PUTTY-a soft clay-like material used to seal faucet parts to
sink parts.
DECK· MOUNTED FAUCET -a faucet that mounts on top of a sink or counter, EASY MODERATE
usually in two to four holes spaced 4 inches on center.
Time: 2 to 3 hours for removal and
installation plus shopping
PLUMBING· Replacing Kitchen Faucets 223

HOW TO REMOVE THE OLD FAUCET
1 To remove the old faucet, start by clearing 2 Spray the mounting nuts that hold the faucet
out the cabinet under the sink and laying down or faucet handles (on the underside of the sink
towels. Turn off the hot and cold stop valves and deck) with penetrating oil for easier removal. Let
open the faucet to make sure the water is off. the oil soak in for a few minutes.
Detach the sprayer hose from the faucet sprayer
nipple and unscrew the retaining nut that secures
the sprayer base to the sink deck. Pull the sprayer
hose out through the sink deck opening.
4 Pull the faucet body from the sink. Remove

3 Unhook the supply tubes at the stop valves. the sprayer base, if you wish to replace this. Scrape
Don't reuse old chrome supply tubes. If the stops off old putty or caulk with a putty knife and clean
are missing or unworkable, replace them. Then, off the sink with a scouring pad and an acidic
remove the coupling nuts and the mounting nuts scouring cleaner like Barkeeper's Friend.
on the tailpieces of the faucet with a basin wrench TI P: Scour stainless steel with a back and forth
or channel-type pliers. motion to avoid leaving unsightly circular markings.

HOW TO INSTALL A KITCHEN FAUCET
SHOPPING TIP
Take a close look at the faucet material:
Under a pretty chrome finish a faucet may

be brass, steel, or even plastic. A solid brass
faucet with heavy brass handles will last
longest. Regular (not stainless) steel will
eventually rust, even if there is another
metal on the top (brass- and chrome-plated
steel nuts and screws are notorious for rusting
into gobs of unmovable metal). Plastic or
lightweight brass will wear out, especially
where the handles attach to the valves.
1 Apply a thick bead of silicone caulk to the

underside of the faucet base then insert the tail-
pieces of the faucet through the appropriate holes
in the sink deck. Press down lightly on the faucet
to set it in the caulk.
Supply tube
Coupling
nut
2 Slip a friction washer onto each tailpiece and

then hand-tighten a mounting nut. Tighten the 3 Connect supply tubes to the fa ucet tail-
mounting nut with channel-type pliers or a basin pieces- make sure the tubes you buy are long
wrench. Wipe up any silicone squeeze-out on the enough to reach the stop valves and that the
sink deck with a wet rag before it sets up. coupling nuts will fit the tubes and tailpieces.
PLUMBING ' Re pl a cing Kitch e n Fa u c et s 225

HOW TO INSTALL A KITCHEN FAUCET (CONTINUED)
4 Attach the supply rubes to the shutoff valves,

using compression firtings. Make sure you connect
the hot supply to the hot stop valve. Hand-tighten 5 Apply a \4 " bead of plumber's putty or sili-
the nuts, then use an adjustable wrench to tighten cone caulk to the underside of the sprayer base.
them an additional quarter rum. It's a good idea to With the base threaded onto the sprayer hose,
hold the shutoff valve with another wrench to sta- insert the tailpiece of the sprayer through the
bilize it while you tighten the nut. It's also a good opening in the sink deck.
idea to wrap some Teflon tape around the threads
of the sh utoff body.
7 Screw the sprayer hose onto the hose nipple

6 From beneath, slip the friction washer over on the bottom of the faucet. Hand-tighten and then
the sprayer tailpiece and then screw the mounting give the nut one quarter rum with pliers or a basin
nut onto the tailpiece. Tighten with channel-type wrench. Turn on the water supply at the shutoff,
pliers or a basin wrench. Wipe any excess putty or remove the aerator and flush debris from the
caulk on the sink deck from around the base. faucet.

VARIATION: INSTALLING A KITCHEN FAUCET
WITH PREATTACHED COPPER SUPPLY TUBES
Rubber
gasket - - - . - : :
Retainer
rings
1 Some faucets come with the copper supply

2 Secure the faucet to the sink deck by placing
tubes preattached to the faucet body. This mini-
mizes the number of connections so you can a rubber gasket between the retainer rings and the
hook the new faucet directly to the shutoff valves. underside of the countertop. Orient the cutout in
To install a Single-handle lever-type faucet with the retainer to fit around the supply tubes. Thread
preattached supply tubes, start by caulking the a lock nut onto the threaded sprayer nipple and
faucet base and setting it on the deck, as in step 1, hand-tighten up to the retainer.
on page 123. The copper supply tubes and the
sprayer nipple should go through the center hole
and then mounting bolts on each side should go
through the two outside holes.
4 Bend the copper faucet tubes so they are in

straight up-and-down positions as they meet the
stop valves. You may need to trim them with a
tubing cutter. Connect the tubes to the stop valves
3 Attach retainer rings and washers to the two with compression nuts and rings (attach the hot
mounting bolts as well and hand-tighten the supply tube to the hot supply pipe). Install the
mounting nuts. Tighten all nuts with pliers or a sprayer as shown on the previous page. Turn on
basin wrench. the water at the shutoffs and test the faucet.
PLUMBING' Replacing Kitchen Faucets 227

Replacing Pop-up Stoppers
20
A bum pop-up stopper may require complete regime change. Not just the
stopper, but the tube and lever apparatus under it may need to be replaced.
pop-up STOPPERS ARE THOSE CHROME-PLATED, LONG-LEGGED PLUGS IN BATH-
ROO M SIN K S that are opened and closed with a knob behind the spout. The stopper itself
is just the glory guy for a behind-the-scenes assembly that makes sure the stopper sits and
stands on cue. New faucets come with their own pop-up stopper assemblies, assuming they
use one, but you may also purchase one by itself. This will include everything from the stop-
per to the pipe that drops into the trap (the trap is that drooping piece of drainpipe under
your sink). If you choose to buy a pop-up stopper assembly, we recommend one that's heavy
brass under the chrome fmish. This will hold up better to time and abuse than a plastic or
light-gauge metal model.
POP-UP STOPPERS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Screwdriver
Nylon _ _
_sher ｩｾｌｯ｣ｫｮｵｴ＠
Pivot ball gasket
Oevis strap
Drain
ｴ｡ｩｬｐ･｣ｾ＠
Pop up stoppers keep objects from falling down the drain, and they make
filling and draining the sink easy. When you pull up on the lift rod, the clevis
strap is raised, which raises the pivot rod, which seesaws on the pivot ball and
pulls the pop-up stopper down against the flange. This blocks water through
the sink drain, but water may still overflow into the overflow channel, and get
into the stopper body and down the drain through overflow ports in the pop-up
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
body, which is a nice feature if you leave the water running in a plugged basin
by mistake. • Making slip joints
• Handling small parts
• Cutting metal with a hacksaw
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
PLUMBER'S PUTTY-a soft clay-like material used to seal metal parts to the sink.
-
POp·UP WASTE-another term for a pop,up assembly.
TAILPIECE-takes the waste from the pop-up stopper body to the J·bend.
J·BEND-a J-shaped bend of drainpipe below the sink. It's the part of the trap Time: 1 to 2 hours plus shopping
that's always full of water to keep sewer gases from rising into the house.
PLUMBING' Replacing Pop·up Stoppers 229

HOW TO REPLACE A POP-UP STOPPER
Pop-up Clevis
drain Bottom
tailpiece of sink
1 Put a basin under the trap to catch water.

Loosen the nuts at the outlet and inlet to the trap
J-bend by hand or with channel-type pliers and
2 Unscrew the cap holding the ball-and-pivot
rod in the pop-up body and withdraw the ball.
remove the bend. The trap will slide off the pop- Compress the spring clip on the clevis and with-
up body tailpiece when the nuts are loose. Keep draw the pivot rod from the clevis.
track of washers and nuts and their up / down ori-
entation by leaving them on the tubes.
Flange
4 Clean the drain opening above and below,

3 Remove the pop-up stopper. Then, from and then thread the locknut all the way down the
below, remove the lock nut on the stopper body. new pop-up body followed by the flat washer and
If needed, keep the flange from turning by insert- the rubber gasket (beveled side up). Wrap three
ing a large screwdriver in the drain from the top. layers of Teflon tape clockwise onto the top of the
Thrust the stopper body up through the hole to threaded body. Make a ｾＢＭ､ｩ｡Ｎ＠ snake from
free the flange from the basin, and then remove plumber's putty, form it into a ring and stick the
the flange and the stopper body. ring underneath the drain flange.

Plum
putty
5 From below, face the pivot rod opening directly 6 Drop the pop-up stopper into the drain hole
back toward the middle of the faucet and pull the so the hole at the bottom of its post is closest to
body straight down to seat the flange. Thread the the back of the sink. Put the beveled nylon washer
locknut / washer assembly up under the sink, then into the opening in the back of the pop-up body
fully tighten the locknut with channel-type pliers. Do with the bevel faCing back.
not twist the flange in the process, as this can break
the putty seal. Clean off the squeezeout of plumber's
putty from around the flange .
Adjust so clevis
.\
Is vertical
•
7 Put the cap behind the ball on the pivot rod 8 Loosen the clevis screw holding the clevis to
as shown . Sandwich a hole in the clevis with the the lifr rod. Push the pivot rod all the way down
spring clip and thread the long end of the pivot (which fully opens the pop-up stopper). With the
rod through the clip and clevis. Put the ball end lifr rod also all the way down, tighten the clevis
of the pivot rod into the pop-up body opening screw to the rod. If the clevis runs into the top of
and into the hole in the the stopper stem. Screw the trap, cut it short with your hacksaw or tin
the cap on to the pop-up body over the ball. snips. Reassemble the J-bend trap.
PLUMBING' Replacing Pop-up Stoppers 231
Replacing Toilets
21
Replacing a toilet is simple, and the latest generation of 1.6·gallon water-

saving toilets has overcome the performance problems of earlier models.
YOU CAN REPLACE A POORLY FUNCTIONING TOILET WITH A HIGH-EFFICIENCY,
HIGH-QUALITY NEW TOILET FOR UNDER TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY DOLLARS,
but don't, as Ben Franklin would say, be penny wise and pound foolish. All toilets made since
1996 have been required to use 1.6 gallons or less per flush, which has been a huge challenge
for the industry. Today, the most evolved 1.6-gallon toilets have wide passages behind the
bowl and wide (three-inch) flush valve openings-features that facilitate short, powerful
flushes. This means fewer second flushes and fewer clogged toilets. These problems were
common complaints of the first generation of 1.6-gallon toilets and continue to beleaguer
inferior models today. See what toilets are available at your local home center in your price
range, then go online and see what other consumers' experiences with those models have
been. New toilets often go through a "de-bugging" stage when problems with leaks and mal-
functioning parts are more common. Your criteria should include ease of installation, good
flush performance, and reliability. With a little research, you should be able to purchase and
install a high-functioning economical gravity-flush toilet that will serve you well for years to come.
TOILETS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
UtIlity
knife
-
\ Toilet seat
Round
front
Floor bolt
(cap on)
\
/
Rough·in distance
10", 12" or 14"
Wax ring
without
flange
(12" most common)
Buy a toilet that will fit the space. Measure the distance from the floor bolts back
to the wall (if your old toilet has two pairs of bolts, go by the rear pair). This is
your rough·in distance and will be either 10" or approximately 12". Make note of
the bowl shape, round or oval (long). Oval bowls (also called elongated bowls)
SKILLS YOU'LL NEED
are a few inches longer for greater comfort, but may be too big for your space.
The safest bet is to buy a replacement with the same bowl shape. • Making compression joints
• Lifting SO pounds
• Hand tool usage

DIFFICULTY LEVEL
CLOSET FLANGE-the metal or plastic slotted ring on the floor around the drain
opening to which the toilet is bolted.
CLOSET ELBOW-the drain elbow the closet flange attaches to.
WAX RING-a compressible ring that forms a seal between the toilet and the
closet flange; it fits either a 3-inch or 4-inch closet elbow.
CLOSET BOLTS-the pair of bolts that attach the toilet to the flange. Time: Allow about 1 hour for this project
PLUMBING· Replacing Toilets 233

HOW TO REPLACE A TOILET
1 Rem ove the old toilet. First, turn off th e water 2 Grip each tank bolt nut with a box wrench or
pliers and loosen it as you stabilize each tank bolt
at the stop valve (see page 136 if you have trouble). from inside the tank with a large slotted screwdriv-
Flush the toilet holding the handle down for a er. If the nuts are stuck, apply penetrating oil to
long flush , and sponge out the tank. Unthread the the nut and let it sit before trying to remove them
coupling nut for the water supply below the tank again. You m ay also cut the tank bolts between the
using channel-type pliers if needed. TIP: If you have tank and the bowl w ith an open-ended hacksaw
a wet vac, use this here and in step three to clear (inset). Rem ove and discard the tank.
any remaining water out of the tank and b owl.
TECHNIQUE TIP
R emoving an
old wax ring
is one of the
more disgusting
jobs you'll
encounter in the
Cut down
through nut plumbing uni-
with hacksaw
verse (the one
you see here is
actually in rela-
tively good con-
3 Remove the nuts that hold the bowl to the

dition). Work a
stiff putty knife
floor. First, pry off the bolt covers w ith a screw- underneath the plastic flange of the ring (if you
driver. Use a socket wrench , locking pliers, or can) and start scraping. In many cases the wax
your channel-type pliers to loosen the nuts on the ring will come off in chunks. Discard each chunk
tank bolts. Apply penetrating oil and let it sit if the right away-they stick to everything. If you're
nuts are stuck, then take them off. As a last resort, left with a lot of residue, scrub with mineral spir-
cu t the bolts off with a hacksaw by first cutting its. Once clean, stuff a rag in a bag in the drain
down through one side of the nut. Tilt the toilet opening to block sewer gas.
bowl over and remove it.
Closet
flange
Wax ring
A cross-section of the connection between the toilet stool and the drain reveals that it really is only a ring of
wax that makes the difference between a pleasant water closet and something that smells like an open sewer.
..... Ftoor
Wax ring bolt nuts
with flange
5 Lower the new toilet down over the wax ring

so the bolts go through the holes on the bottom
of the stool (this can be tricky- be patient and get
help). Press down on the toilet to seat it in the
4 Remove the rag-in-a-bag from the drain open- wax ring and check for level. If the bowl is not
ing and put newall-brass toilet bolts into the slots quite level, you can shim the low side with a few
on the closet flange at 3 and 9 o-clock and rotate pennies. Thread washers and nuts onto the floor
each Y4 turn so the elongated heads cannot be bolts and tighten them a little at a time, alternat-
withdrawn. Put the plastic keepers or extra washing. Do not overtighten. Cut the bolts off above
ers and nuts on the bolts to secure them to the the nuts with a hacksaw and add the caps. Lay a
flange. Unwrap the wax ring and position it over bead of tub and tile caulk around the base of the
the flange so it looks like the one in the cross sec- toilet, but leave the back open to let water escape
tion photo at the top of this page. so you'll know if there's ever a leak.
PLUMBING' Replacing Toilets 235
HOW TO REPLACE A TOILET (CONTINUED)
Spud
nut \
Spud
washer
6 Attach the toilet tank. Some tanks come with

7 If necessary, adjust the fill valve as noted in
a flush valve and a fill valve preinstalled, but if
the directions (also see pages 166 to 169).
yours does not, insert the flush valve through the
tank opening and tighten a spud nut over the
threaded end of the valve. Place a foam spud
washer on top of the spud nut. Intermediate nut goes
between tank and bowl
Threaded fill'.......-_ _--:::::

valve shank
9 With the tank lying on its back, thread a rub-

8 Position the valve in the tank. Push down on ber washer onto each tank bolt and insert it into
the valve shank (not the top) while hand-tighten- the bolt holes from inside the tank. Then, thread a
ing the locknut onto the threaded valve shank brass washer and hex nut onto the tank bolts from
(thread the nut on the exterior side of tank). below and tighten them to a quarter turn past
Hand-tighten only. hand tight. Do not overtighten.
10 Position the tank on the bowl, spud wash- 11 You may stabilize the bolts with a large
er on opening, bolts through bolt holes. Put a rub- slotted screwdriver from inside the tank, but tight-
ber washer followed by a brass washer and a wing en the nuts, not the bolts. You may press down a
nut on each bolt and tighten these up evenly. little on a side, the front, or the rear of the tank to
level it as you tighten the nuts by hand. Do not
overtighten and crack the tank. The tank should
be level and stable when you're done.
12 Hook up the water supply by connecting

the supply tube to the threaded fill valve with the 13 Attach the toilet seat by threading the plas-
coupling nut provided. Turn on the water and test tic or brass bolts provided with the seat through the
for leaks. openings on the back of the rim and attaching nuts.
PLUMBING· Replacing Toilets 237
Flooring
FLOORING PLAYS A VITAL ROLE IN THE LOOK AND FEEL OF YOUR
HOME. BECAUSE IT IS ONE OF THE LARGEST ELEMENTS IN A
ROOM, A FLOOR CREATES INSTANT IMPACT. IT'S IMPORTANT TO
ADDRESS BOTH THE FUNCTION AND BEAUTY OF THE FLOORING
IN YOUR HOME. AND, OF COURSE, IT'S IMPORTANT TO MAINTAIN
THE FLOORS IN YOUR HOME TO GET THE MOST OUT OF THEM.
This section of the book will help you better understand the basic types
of flooring so you can approach repairs and installations with
confidence. It will walk you, step by step, through 16 very common floor-
ing projects. Even if you have no previous experience with flooring, you'll
fmd everything you need right here to make your project a success.
IN THIS CHAPTER:
o Before Yo u Begin o Replacing Laminate Floorboards

Understandi ng Floors o Patching Ca rpet
Choosing Flooring o Removing Resilient Flooring
Evaluating Floors o Removing Carpet
Cleaning Floors o Sea ling Concrete Floors
o Repairing Splinters & Gouges o Refinishing Hardwood Floors
o Fixing Squeaky Floors from o Painting Wood Floors
Below
o Installing Laminate Flooring
o Fixing Squeaky Floors from o Installing Floor Tile
Above
o Repairing Resilient Flooring

o Patching Resilient Sheet
Flooring
o Repairing Loose Carpet Seams

o Replacing Ceramic Tiles
FLOORING' Introduction 239

Before You Begin:
Understanding Floors
Floor covering
ANATOMY OF A FLOOR
When most of us think of a floor we envision the top layer: in effect, the decorative cover-
ing-hardwood, ceramic tile, laminate, or carpet. The "real" floor is hidden underneath.
Your floor is made of a sturdy plywood or composite panel subfloor that spans supportive
floor joists. The subfloor may be large sheets or planks (and the planks may be arranged in a
staggered or diagonal fashion). The joists sit on sills along the foundation and are often sup-
ported at a midpoint by a steel girder or wood beam.
An elevated framed floor, like the one shown above, is supported by beams that run perpen-
dicular to the joists. In most cases, the joists are tied together with bridging for extra stabili-
ty (see photo next page, lower right).
Depending on the type of flooring used, the subfloor may be covered with an additional layer
of underlayment, such as a cement board. The top layer of flooring is installed on the under-
layment or subfloor and may rest on some type of cushioning layer. Of course, there are
always custom options, such as soundproofing or heating, that may be layered into your floor
plan. It's important to know what is under your floor covering and how your floor is sup-
ported before starting any repairs on that floor.
Plastic moisture
Barrier
Basement slab
Basement floors are uniquely layered to compen-

sate for the hard concrete base. When patching
your damaged floor, only remove the floor cover-
Soundproofed floors have an extra layer to dampen ing on top of the plywood subfloor.
noise. When patching a damaged area of your
floor, replace the floor covering on top of the
sound barrier material. The sound barrier is not
altered.
Floor covering
Thinset
mortar
o
o
o
Heating mat
Concrete
(or subfloor)
Radiant floor heating systems use hot water coils

or electricty. Even concrete floors without floor The bridging between joists for extra stability
covering may be heated. could be wood or metal.
FLOORING' Before You Begin 241
Before You Begin:
Choosing Flooring
Today's homeowner is faced with an extensive range of flooring choices. Selecting the right
floor can almost be harder than installing it.
If installing new floors, it is fun to choose the colors, patterns, and other design qualities of
the floor you desire. But there are some other qualities to consider, including: cost, comfort,
ease of maintenance, and durability.
The varying characteristics of the floors discussed here will help you decide which floor is
best for your space. For example, hard flooring- such as ceramic tiles or concrete- is tough,
attractive, and great for high-traffic areas. Soft floors, like carpet, are still popular in both bed-
rooms and living areas because they offer comfort, warmth, and a feeling of luxury.
If your floors are already installed-often homes have four or more types of flooring- the
following discussion will help you recognize their strong points. Knowing what your floor
can handle helps with maintenance, decorating, and cleaning.
Parquet tile floors offer the Concrete floors are typically Laminate floors are available in
beauty and feel of wood in the found in basements and garages planks or squares. They snap
block shape of tiles. Decorative for obvious reasons. They are together with tongue-and-groove
patterns make these floors tough and can withstand high joints and then "float" on top of
appear to be high end when traffic, heavy equipment, messy the floor, meaning they are not
they are actually quite afford- spills (including sitting water), fastened directly to the subfloor
able. All parquet tiles feature scratches, and scuffs. But con- or underlayment. A laminate
tongue-and-groove edges that crete is increasingly popular for floor consists of a very durable
snap together. You can find par- interior spaces, especially when surface-wear layer; a photograph-
quet tiles with self-adhesive finished with paint or decorative ic print layer, which allows it to
backs, but dry-back tiles to acid stains. replicate the appearance of other
which you apply standard floor- surfaces; and a solid core.
ing adhesive stay put longer.
Manufactured wood flooring materials include:
fiberboard surfaced with a synthetic laminate layer
Ceramic tile floors look spectacular, and they are (right), plywood topped with a thin hardwood
durable. At the same time, they tend to be cold, veneer (center), and parquet tile made of wood
they conduct sound, and they are expensive. strips (left). Wood floors come in planks or strips.
Upon installation, they are evenly spaced and The planks fit together with tongue-and-groove
then the joints are filled with grout. These joints joints or square edges and, depending on manu-
are then sealed. facturer recommendations, they float on top of
the subfloor or are secured in place with nails, sta-
ples, and / or glue.
Resilient floors include vinyl, linoleum, cork, and

rubber. They are comfortable underfoot and easy
to clean. They are impervious to water- except at
the seams or where torn. Depending upon the Carpet is the most popular choice for living rooms
material, resilient flooring comes in either large and bedrooms because it produces a warm, com-
sheets, which need to be cut to size, or easy-to- fortable environment. It is available in convention-
install tiles. Resilient floors are often cost effective al, cushion-back, or tile forms. Wall-to-wall carpet
and are available in a staggering number of pat- is laid with fittings, such as tackless strips and
terns and colors. They are usually thin, which padding. Cushion-backed carpet is glued directly
means the subfloor must be level. to the subfloor.

Before You Begin:
Evaluating Floors
Floor coverings wear out faster than other interior surfaces because they get more wear and
tear. Surface damage can affect more than just appearance. Scratches in resilient flooring and
cracks in grouted tile joints allow moisture to wear away at adhesive, eventually pushing up
the floor covering or tile. Hardwood floors lose their finish and become discolored. And
loose floorboards squeak. If that problem appears to be minor now, the question is : Clean ,
repair, or replace?
Before answering that question, you must thoroughly inspect your entire floor. Look for
stains, tears, rips, cracks, buckles, bubbles, or damp spots. Specific concerns for each type of
flooring material are listed in this section. Once the problem is classified, you may move on
to the repair project specific to the problem.
Concrete floors are hard and durable, but still

require care. If unsealed, concrete is vulnerable to
all kinds of stains. Oil and grease are particularly
troublesome. Cracks are also common .
A severely damaged section of tile or plank may

Look for tears, stains, or excessive wear in carpet. be completely removed (as is being done in photo)
Cleaning the spots should always be the first step, and replaced. Normal wear and tear is probably
and there are carpet-cleaning products for almost the result of years of accumulated dirt from foot
every possible stain. If this doesn't do the trick, traffic. Unfortunately, this is unavoidable. Often
these damaged areas may be fixed with a patch touch-up sticks to repair scratches are available
(as shown in photo). from manufacturers.

Moisture can cause wood floors to swell. Swollen
planks should be removed so you can inspect the
subfloor. Allowing the subfloor to dry out allows Though quite durable , parquet tiles are still vul-
you to then replace the damaged boards with new, nerable to stains, especially from heavy spills or
tight-fitting planks. water that sits on the floor for some time. It is
important to clean up spills immediately. Soak a
cloth in mineral spirits for troublesome stains .
.I
ｾ＠
A common problem for resilient sheet floors is

air bubbles. For resilient tiles (inset), the most
Even durable ceramic tiles develop signs of wear. common problem is loose seams. Tiles with
To evaluate ceramic tiles, check for loose, cracked, small curls may be reattached, but tiles with dirt
or dirty grout joints. Remove failed grout and regrout under them must be completely removed and
tile joints. replaced.
FLOORING· Before You Begin 245

Before You Begin:
Clean ing Floors
Immediately clean spills with a dry cloth. Avoid As a last resort, stubborn sticky wood floors need to
rubbing the spill into the floor. Once the spill is be wet mopped. Only wet mop the floor if the fin-
soaked up, use a damp cloth to blot the remaining ish is in good condition. A sponge mop moistened
residue on the floor. Rinse your cloth often and with a mixture of water and a mild wood floor
thoroughly wring it out before using it again. Use a cleaner or a neutral pH soap or detergent (1 gal.:
dry, clean cloth to dry the area when you are done. Y.! cup cleaner) is all that is required. The mop
If it is still sticky, allow the area to dry and then use should just barely be damp at any given time. Excess
a damp mop. water can seriously damage wood floors. After
cleaning, use a towel to thoroughly dry the floor.
WHAT IF . . . ?
f you have la minate flooring , follow the

Icleaning recommendations provided by the
manufacturer. Many manufacturers caution
against cleaning with water or any cleaner
that's mixed with water.
If a liquid spill fades your hardwood floor, lightly

sand the damaged area and apply new finish. Do
not use a wax finish over a surface finish.
HERE'S HOW
ake sure you know what sort of finish

M (wax o r urethane) is on your wood floor,
and use p roducts specifically for your floor
surface. Look for products labeled "for wood
floor cleaning, " for example. Avoid ammonia Use nonmarking floor protectors on your furniture's
products or soaps with oil; use pH-balanced "feet." Sets often include nails or screws to attach the
cleaners fo r routine cleaning. feet. There are also special protectors for wheels. Be
sure to buy the correct size and style for your furniture .
246 TH E CO M PLETE PHOT O G U IDE TO HO M EOWNER BA SIC S

CLEANING CARPET
Use a large spoon to pick up spills. Spoons capture

liquids well without damaging fibers. Scoop
toward the center of the stain to avoid spreading.
Do not rub stains- blot them (see inset). Apply
cleaning solution to a cloth or paper towel, then
blot the stain, working from the outside toward
the center to avoid spreading the stain.
Carpet cleaning machines can be rented by the

hour or by the day. To deep clean your carpet
push the machine forward over a 3-ft. square area,
releasing the detergent and rotating the brush. At
this time hot water is often used, causing steam.
When you pull back, cold water is used as a rinse.
Some machines allow you to manually adjust the
water temperature. Always be sure to rinse thor-
oughly. Slowly go over the same area a couple of
times to work the cleaner into the carpet. Repeat
this process until the entire carpet is cleaned.
Allow the carpet to dry. Vacuum .
Raise crushed fibers by first dampening the area

with water (or allow a small ice cube to melt on
each dent overnight). Work up the crushed fibers
with your hand (or a spoon, if they are stubborn).
PRO TIP
A hair dryer on medium temperature not only
helps dry the spots while you raise the fibers, but
t usually takes a day for carpet to dry. Wait at
Ileast this long before replacing furniture.
the heat helps raise the fibers. Sometimes simply
holding a steam iron above the dent will pop up
the crushed carpet.
FLOORI N G· B e for e You B egi n 247

CLEANING CERAMIC TILE
If water doesn't bead on tiles or on grout joints

during regular cleaning, it's time to apply another
Dry mop daily to gently remove particles that coat of sealer. For instructions on grouting and
could scratch your tile. sealing ceramic tile joints, see pages 274 to 277.
For heavy stains on natural stone tile, try a manu-

facturer poultice specifically for porous stone
materials. Cover the stain with the poultice, then
Use pH-balanced cleaners or soapless detergents
tape plastic over it. Let the poulitice set, according
for bi-weekly mopping. Having a bucket with a
to the manufacturer's instructions, then remove it.
wringer helps to ensure you do not oversaturate
the mop. Alternatively, use a sponge mop with an
attachment to wring out sponge. Always dry mop HERE'S HOW
or vacuum first. If you prefer not to use commer-
cial cleaning products, use a steam cleaner (be dd glass cleaner to the water in your clean-
sure not to buy a deep cleaner, which often incor-
porates shampoo).
A ing bucket to prevent streaks from showing
up once the floor is dry. If the floor has a dull fin-
ish, it may be time to reseal the floor. If water
absorbs into the grout lines, the grout joints
need to be resealed. It is still necessary to clean
the floor before sealing.
,.
Vacuum grout joints with a bare-floor attachment once
a week. Use a soft-bristle broom or handheld broom
and dustpan to pick up debris that the vacuum missed.
If dirt or sand is a regular problem, try to find out how
it is tracked in. Place rugs or mats at those entryways.
Be sure to regularly shake out the rugs.

CLEANING RESILIENT & LAMINATE FLOORS
Occasionally wet mop. Regular dry mopping and

Remove tough stains with mineral spirits or vacuuming is necessary, but it doesn't remove
household bleach. Wet a rag with the solution, and sticky spots. Sometimes all that is necessary is a
place it over the stain. Lay a plastic bag over the little warm water. Also be sure to inspect seams in
rag to slow evaporation. Wait 1 to 2 hours, then tile and the perimeter of full-spread sheet flooring.
wipe up the stain. Always test solvents in an incon- Use a slightly damp cloth to pick up dirt or dust
spicuous area before using them elsewhere on the stuck in seams or corners-especially around
floor. Bleach may strip the protective finish off the thresholds, where material tends to settle after
floor, leaving it dull. sweeping.
If your floor is dull even after you clean it, you

should polish. Put manufacturer polish into a clean
bucket, dip a cloth into it, and wring about half
the polish out of the cloth. Working in a 3- to 4-ft.
square, wipe the cloth over the floor in straight On vinyl and laminate, you can remove tough
lines. Apply 2 to 3 coats; let the polish dry for at spots like shoe polish or tar with nail polish
least 30 minutes between coats and about an hour remover containing acetone. When the spot is
(minimum) when you're done. gone, wipe the area with a clean, damp cloth.

Repairing Splinters & Gouges
1
Ouch! If a floorboard begins to splinter, it's a good idea to repair it before

the splinter completely dislodges and disappears-or worse, completely
dislodges into someone's bare foot.
IT IS COMMON FOR SPLINTERS TO APPEAR IN FLOORS THAT ARE DRIED OUT
and brittle. When hardwood floors are damaged by high heels or pushed chair legs, a portion
of the grain may dislodge; because the grain of wood runs only in one direction, it splinters
rather than simply creating a hole. Floorboards that have splinters or gouges don't necessar-
ily have to be replaced; a splinter can be reattached with some glue and a hole can be filled
with some wood putty.

SPLINTERS & GOUGES 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Ｎｾｾ＠
. -. Putty
ｬｩｩＺ］ｾ［ＮＡ＠ Kni_fe_ _
SKILLS YOU NEED
Wood flooring is susceptible to splintering and gouges. How you repair the
• Gluing
damage depends on whether the planks are laminated or solid wood. • Using a putty knife
• Sanding
• Applying a top coat
(polyurethane and wax)
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
RECONDITIONING FLOORS-Lightly sanding only the finish of the floor (to dull
the surface) and then reapplying a new coat of finish.
FEATHER SAND-Sanding with lighter and lighter strokes as you move away
from a more heavily sanded area. This creates a smooth transition between sand-
ed and non·sanded areas.
EASY MODERATE
This project can be completed in less than

an hour (not including drying time).
FLOORING· Repairing Splinters & Gouges 251

_ _ HOW TO GLUE DOWN A SPLINTER
2 If the splinter is large, apply wood glue to the

hole and splinter. Use a cotton swab or toothpick
to apply small amounts of wood glue under small-
1 If you still have the splintered piece of wood, er splinters. Soak the cotton swab in glue; you
but it has been entirely dislodged from the floor, don't want cotton swab fuzz sticking out of your
it's a good bet that the hollowed space left by the floor once the glue dries.
splinter has collected a lot of dirt and grime.
Combine a 1:3 mixture of distilled white vinegar
and water in a bucket. Dip an old toothbrush into
the solution and use it to clean out the hole left in
the floor. While you're at it, wipe down the splin-
ter with the solution, too. Allow the floor and
splinter to thoroughly dry
3 Press the splinter back into place. To clean up 4 Allow the adhesive to dry Cover the patch
the excess glue, use a slightly damp, lint-free cloth. with wax paper and a couple of books. Let the
Do not oversoak the cloth with water. adhesive dry overnight.
_ _ HOW TO REPAIR A GOUGE
1 Repair small holes with wood putty. Use 2 Sand the area with fme (100- to 120-grit)
putty that matches the floor color. Force the com- sandpaper. Sand with the wood grain so the splin-
pound into the hole with a putty knife. Continue tered area is fl ush with the surrounding surface.
to press the putty in this fashion until the depres- To better hide the repair, feather sand the area.
sion in the floor is filled . Scrape excess compound Wipe up dust with a slightly damp cloth.
from the area. Use a damp, lint-free cloth while
the putty is still wet to smooth the top level with
the surrounding floor. Allow to dry.
HERE'S HOW
o determine
T what kind of
surface you have,
use a coin to
lightly scrape the
floor in a hidden
corner. If flakes
Surface finish (poly or wax) appear, you have
either a surface
finish or a wax
coat. If no flakes
appear, it's a pen-
etrant. To check
for wax, sprinkle
water on the
floor. If the beads
Penetrant finish turn white after
10 minutes, it's
3 With a clean, lint-free cloth, apply a matching

waxed.
stain (wood sealer or "restorer") to the sanded

area. Read the label on the product to make sure
it is appropriate for sealing wood floors. Work in
the stain until the patched area blends with the
rest of the floor. Allow area to completely dry.
Apply two coats of finish. Be sure the finish is the Wax finish
same as that which was used on the surrounding
floor.
FLOORING· Re p ai ring S plint e r s & Go u ge s 253
Fixing Squeaky Floors
from Below
2
Squeak-elimination tools, such as the Squeak-Ender (shown), tighten the

joist to the subfloor and eliminate squeaks. See page 256 for instructions.
LOTS OF HOUSES SQUEAK, SO MOST OF US JUST ACCEPT IT AS A FACT OF LIFE.
It doesn't have to be , though. With a little work, you can get rid of those pesky squeaks. The
cause of a floor talking back to you is no mystery; it's just the sound of wood rubbing against
a nail or another piece of wood. More often than not the squeaking is just caused by the
wood expanding due to humidity, contracting due to dryness. Wood is a very porous mate-
rial. It just does that.
So how do we make it stop? If you have access to the area below the squeaky floor (as is the
case if the immediate level below has an unfmished ceiling), please read on . ...
FLOOR SQUEAKS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Hammer
Flashlight
ｾ｟ａ＠
ｾ＠
Folding ruler Woo glue
...
I
ｾ＠ 3/4 ",
.........
ｾ＠ #8 drill bit
,..,.. ... spade
bit
"" ...
.... " ...
......... ,
To pinpoint the source of a squeak, have someone walk around upstairs while
,.. ...... #10 flat-
head wood
I
you're below the floor (on the lower level). Make a pencil mark on the unfin- screws
I
ｾ＠
ished ceiling where you hear the offending chirp or squawk. The subfloor may
Wrench
even visually move away from the joists when you hear the squeak. If you don't Washers 1110
Wood shims drill
see any movement, the finished flooring has buckled up away from the subfloor. bit
If this is the case, have the person upstairs place a heavy weight, such as a
couch leg or cinder block, on the spot that squeaks. If the squeak is immediately
SKILLS YOU NEED
over a joist, use a hammer to tap a wood shim in between the joist and sub-
floor. Directions to do so are given in this project (starting on the next page). • Drilling
• Hammering
• Wrench and screwdriver work

DIFFICULTY LEVEL
SUBFLOOR-The base layer of wood or plywood that supports the underlayment
and surface flooring.
UNDERLAYMENT-The intermediate layer between the surface flooring material

and the subfloor. The underlayment for laminate flooring combines a poly-water
barrier and a foam cushion sound barrier in a rollout or rigid-plank form.
MODERATE
JOISTS-Supporting beams set parallel from wall to wall to support the subfloor.
This project can be completed in as little
SQUEAK·ENDER FLOOR SQUEAK ELiMINATOR-A commercial squeak-elimina- as 10 minutes or as much as 2 hours.
tion tool. It consists of a threaded rod attached to a flat mounting plate and a
steel bracket fitted with a squared-off hook on one end.
FLOORING· Fixing Squeaky Floors from Below 255

HOW TO FILL GAPS BETWEEN JOISTS & FLOORBOARDS
2 To use a Squeak-Ender, or another compara-

ble squeak-elimination tool, insert the head of the
hanger bolt into the concave part of the anchor
1 If there is a gap or movement between the plate. Use a Phillips screwdriver to screw the
subfloor and joist at the squeak location, tap a mounting plate to the underside of the subfloor
tapered wood shim into the gap. First smear it (four screws are often provided). You want the
with construction adhesive or wood glue. Squirt plate to be touching the nearest joist in the general
some glue into the gap, too. Don't overtap; it area of the squeak.
makes the gap bigger. Wait for the glue to dry If
this doesn't stop the squeak, go to Step 2 .
3 Slide the top part of the joist bracket through 4 Slip the washer and hex nut onto the rod. With
the threaded hanger rod and the bottom part a wrench, tighten the nut until the subfloor is
under the joist. pulled snug against the joist. Avoid overtightening.

_ _ HOW TO CINCH FLOORING TO JOISTS
1 If you've made it this far, the squeak is not

caused by a gap between the subfloor and the
joist. It's likely the floorboards have buckled up, 2 Drill pilot holes. The length of screw we
creating a gap between the floor and th e subfloor. need is 1,4" less than the total depth of the top
We're going to drill up through the subfloor and floor and subfloor combined. Mark that depth
pull the flooring down tight against the subfloor with masking tape on a #8 wood drill bit. On a
with some wood screws. To figure out how long #10 drill bit, mark the depth of the subfloor
the screws should be, first determine the com- only. Now, drill some pilot holes around the
bined thickness of the floor and subfloor by meas- squeak: 1. Drill through the subfloor with the
uring at existing cutouts in the floor. thicker #10 bit. 2. Drill into the same holes a lit-
tle deeper with the # 8 bit. Make sure you don't
drill deeper than the masking tape marks.
WHAT IF . . . ?
f there are no cutouts, determine the thickness HERE'S HOW

I by carefully boring a hole up into the subfloor.
he length of screw we need for Step 2 is the
The hole should be large enough to fit a tape
measure into it. Just to be safe, work in an T same length we marked on the #8 drill bit.
inconspicuous corner of the basement. Use a %" The thread thickness, though, is going to be a
spade drill bit to drill up into the subfloor. Stop #10. This way, as the screw is tightened, the hole
drilling every so often to see how close to the left in the subfloor by the #10 drill bit will not
finish floor you are-you may need a flashlight to offer any resistance, but the hole left in the top
see clearly. Stop once you get to the finish floor. flooring with the #8 drill bit will be snug and pull
Measure . Do not drill all the way through your the loose board down against the subfloor. To
wood floor above. distribute the pressure around the screw, slip
each screw through a large fender washer before
To find out the thickness of the top floor, meas-
driving the screws into each pilot hole. This will
ure the depth of the floor on the first stair down
secure the subfloor to the wood floor and stop
to the basement, if you have one.
the squeak.
FLOORING' Fi x ing Squ ea ky Floor s from B e lo w 257

Fixing Squeaky Floors
from Above
3
It's a little more work to fix squeaks from above the floorboards than from
below, but it's a lot easier than you might think.
THE SOUND OF WOOD RUBBING ON WOOD OR AGAINST A NAIL CAN BE
infuriating, but fortunately this problem is not too complicated to fix. If the ceiling below the
squeaky floor is unfinished, you can go downstairs and actually watch for movement in the
subfloor while someone else walks on the floor upstairs. If you can't get to the floor from
below, you have to ftx the squeak from above. This is done by setting loose boards or surface
nailing them down. Alternatively, a squeak-ender designed specilically for above floors may
be used.
There are a few key topics discussed in this section. Learn how to:
• Apply lubricants to the floorboards to eliminate subtle squeaks caused by dryness.
• Safely use a hammer to tap loose floorboards into place.
• Carefully drill a small hole through the surface of the floor to surface-nail gaps, and
then hide the evidence.

SQUEAK ELIMINATION 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Flooring Roofing
nails nails Nail set
Cardboard
There are squeak-elimination tools for working above and below the floor. Even
SKILLS YOU NEED
if your floor is carpeted, a squeak-elimination tool can drive screws through the
subfloor and into the joists for you. The device controls the depth.
• Hammering
• Drilling
Keep in mind, that annoying squeak in you r floor is caused by any of fou r
• Using a putty knife
things: 1. two floorboards rubbing together; 2. the subfloor rubbing against • Using a nail set
the joist below it; 3. the subfloor rubbing against the floorboards above it;
4. a loose nail in any of these places.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL

and surface flooring . MODERATE
JOISTS-Supporting beams set parallel from wall to wall to support the subfloor. This project can be completed in as little
as 10 minutes or as much as 2 hours.
FLOORING· Fixing Squeaky Floors from Above 259

_ _ HOW TO SET LOOSE BOARDS
HERE'S HOW
ecause small
B squeaks can
be caused by dirt
between floor-
boards or by dry-
ness, clean the
floor at least
once a week and
apply lubricants to areas that tend to be extra
dry or squeaky.
Oils: graphite, mineral oil, or floor oil. Use pow-

dered or liquid graphite sparingly; it can make a
mess. Similarly, a few drops of mineral oil will do
the trick, but using too much can stain the sur-
face . Floor oil, applied generously into the joints,
soaks into the wood, making it expand. This
results in a snug tongue-and-groove fitting . That
1 Make a 'b eater" block. If loose nails are the
problem , you can tap the floorboards down where
pesky squeak may just disappear at this stage, at you hear the squeak. Wrap a 2 x 4 scrap (length of
least temporarily.
1 ft. should do) in a heavy towel or scrap of carpet
Powders: graphite and talcum powder. To use so that you don't scratch the floor surface. Tack
talcum powder, dust a generous amount of the the carpet to the top of the 2 x 4 with nails.
powder wherever the floor makes noise . Use a
dry, clean cloth to work it into the tongue-and-
groove joints, especially near any visible nails.
Slightly dampen the cloth with water to wipe
away excess powder.
3 Squeaks in hardwood floors caused by floor-

boards rubbing against each other or against a nail
can som etimes be eliminated for a few weeks or
2 Place the 2 x 4 at right angles to the squeaky m onths just by adding a hardwood floor lubricant
floorboards. Tap the 2 x 4 with a h ammer to reseat at the point of friction. First remove dirt and
any loose boards or nails. Start at the perimeter of debris from between the floorboards, using an old
the squeaky section, m oving the 2 x 4 in a rectan- toothbrush. With a clean toothbrush or a clean
gular pattern until you get to the center. cloth, apply the lubricant to the floor joints.

_ _ HOW TO FASTEN LOOSE BOARDS
2 Set the nails with a nail set.
1 As a last resort, reattach buckled floorboards

to the subfloor by nailing them down (from above
the floorboards) with flooring nails. To reduce the
risk of the boards splitting, drill pilot holes slightly
smaller than the diameter of the nails. For maxi-
mum holding power, drill at opposing angles in a
staggered pattern every 4" to 6" along the squeaky
boards. The goal is to drill through the surface floor-
ing of the buckled board and into the subfloor;
better yet, drill into the subfloor and a joist.
HERE'S HOW 3 Fill nail holes with wood putty, using a putty
knife. Force the compound into the hole by press-
LOCATE JOISTS Not all of the nails can hit a ing the knife blade downward until it lies flat on
joist, but you get a stronger connection wherever the floor. Allow the patch to dry completely.
they do. Use a stud finder to find the joists.
CO U N T E RSIN K N A I LS Hide the head of the

nails beneath the surface of the wood by gently
tapping the nails down with a nail set. This is
called "countersinking" the nails. Fill nail holes
with tinted putty. Use a slightly damp sponge to
smooth excess putty.
PROTECT YOUR FLOOR FROM DENTS

Before tapping nails into your pre-drilled holes,
cut out small squares of cardboard to set around
the nailing area. It's a good idea to use a smooth-
faced hammer as well.
RE M OV E DENTS Some hammer dents can be

removed by placing a damp cloth on the spot 4 Sand the patch flush with the surrounding
and applying pressure with a hot iron . This raises surface. Use fine-grit sandpaper and sand in the
the damaged surface back to the common sur- direction of the wood grain. Apply wood restorer
face. to the area (inset) until it blends with the sur-
rounding floor.
FLOORING' Fi x ing Squ ea ky Floor s from Abo ve 261
Repairing Resilient Flooring
4
Air pockets and curls are unsightly and they only get worse over time.
Curls invite debris and moisture to settle under the tile, thus weakening
the surrounding tiles; and bubbles continue to swell, destroying the adhe-
sive holding the sheet of flooring in place. These problems must be
addressed immediately.
RESILIENT FLOORING IS DURABLE, BUT FROM TIME TO TIME MINOR REPAIRS
must be addressed. Air pockets are caused by the adhesive no longer working. This is com-
mon as floors age, and the resulting bubble is fairly easy to deflate and rebond to the subfloor.
If not attended to, the area will eventually harden, split, and crack-making the problem
more noticeable and difficult to fix. Even a curled edge on an otherwise healthy vinyl tile can
be easily glued back into place. If the repair doesn't hold, the entire tile must be replaced.

HOW TO FIX A BUBBLE TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
1 Deflate air pocket. Use a utility 2 Choose an appropriately sized

knife to lightly score and then slice tool to force fresh vinyl adhesive
through the bulge. This allows air to through the slit and under the bubble.
escape. Extend the cut a little (W' ) Press the edges together. Wipe up any
beyond the blister at both ends. If excess adhesive with a damp cloth.
possible. cut along a line in the pat- Cover the patch with wax paper and Damp doth
tern to hide the cut. some books while the adhesive dries.
HOW TO FIX A CURL

Toothpicks
SKILLS YOU NEED
• Cutting with a utility knife

• Applying glue with a flexible tool
• Using a heat gun
• Applying seam sealer
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
1 If the corner or edge of vinyl 2 Use a flexible tool (such as a

tile is curling. but the rest of the tile small putty knife) to lift the tile just
is in good shape. you can refasten it. enough to spread the underside
MODERATE
Use an electric heat gun to warm with fresh adhesive. Wipe up excess
the area. This makes the vinyl easier glue with a damp cloth or sponge. This project can be completed in 30 min-
to work with and it softens the utes, not including drying time.
underlying adhesive.
FLOORING' Repairing Resilient Flooring 263

Patch ing Resi Iient
Sheet Flooring
5
,. . .
Resilient flooring is vulnerable when it comes to extreme heat and heavy

objects falling on it. Burn marks and dents can be fixed by cutting out the
damaged section and replacing it with a new patch of matching flooring.
RESILIENT SHEET FLOORING IS A DURABLE, PRACTICAL MATERIAL. There are no

seams, so it is impervious to spills. However, it is not impervious to tears, dents, gouges,
punctures, or burns. To repair a damaged section of sheet flooring, cut out the damaged area
and glue in a replacement patch from a leftover remnant. If you don't have any leftover
pieces available, you could settle for a close match or choose a piece that offers an interest-
ing contrast.

SHEET VINYL PATCHES 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Warm
water
Large carpenter's
square
J-roller
Vacuum
Chisel
• Floor
scraper
Remember to thoroughly sweep and vacuum underlayment before installing a

ｾＡｉｾｾｉｾｌＧａｉＢ＠ trowel
notched
----
vinyl patch. Sometimes the tiniest bits and pieces of debris create noticeable
SKILLS YOU NEED
bumps. And if old adhesive is not completely removed, a yellow discoloration
will form on your new patch. • Measuring

• Cutting
• Scraping
• Vacuuming
• Simple trowel work
UN DERLAYMENT -The intermediate layer between the surface flooring mate· DIFFICULTY LEVEL
rial and the subfloor.
PERIMETER.INSTALL-Vinyl sheet flooring that is glued only around the

edges.
TROWEL-A flat·blade hand tool with a raised handle used for scooping,
spreading, leveling, smoothing, or shaping substances such as cement, mortar, EASY MODERATE
or adhesive. Usually, a tile trowel has notches on one edge for combing mor-
tar or adhesive into even rows. This project can be completed in 1 hour,
not including drying time.
FLOORING· Patching Resilient Sheet Flooring 265

HOW TO PATCH RESILIENT SHEET FLOORING
1 Measure the width and length of the dam-

2 Lay the patch over the damaged area, match-
ing pattern lines. Secure the patch with duct tape.
aged area. Place the new flooring remnant on a
Using a carpenter's square as a cutting guide, cut
surface you don't mind making some cuts on-
through the new vinyl (on top) and the old vinyl
like a scrap of plywood. Use a carpenter's square
(on bottom). Press firmly with the knife to cut
for cutting guidance. Make sure your cutting size
both layers.
is a bit larger than the damaged area.
/
'r--_ J
•• •
3 Use tape to mark one edge of the new patch 4 Soften the underlying adhesive with an electric
with the corresponding edge of the old flooring as heat gun and remove the damaged section of floor.
placement marks. Remove the tape around the Work from edges in. When the tile is loosened,
perimeter of the patch and lift up. insert a putty knife and pry up the damaged area.

•
5 Scrape off the remaining adhesive with a
putty knife or chisel. Work from the edges to the
center. Dab mineral spirits (or Goo Gone) or spritz
warm water on the floor to dissolve leftover goop,
taking care not to use too much; you don't want to
loosen the surrounding flooring. Use a razor-edged
scraper (flooring scraper) to scrape to the bare 6 Apply adhesive to the patch, using a notched
wood underlayment. trowel (with %" V-shaped notches) held at a 45 °
angle to the back of the new vinyl patch .
•
7 Set one edge of the patch in place. Lower the
patch onto the underlayment. Press into place. 8 Let the adhesive dry overnight. The next day,
Apply pressure with a J-roller or rolling pin to cre- hide the seams with liqUid seam sealer. Use a soft
ate a solid bond. Start at the center and work cloth dipped in lacquer thinner to clean the area.
toward the edges, working out air bubbles. Wipe Mix the seam sealer according to the manufactur-
up adhesive that oozes out the sides with a clean, er's directions. Use an applicator bottle to apply a
damp cloth or sponge. thin bead of sealer onto the cutlines.
FLOORING· Patching Resilient Sheet Flooring 267

Repairing Loose Carpet Seams
6
Sliding furniture across the floor can catch loose carpet seams and further
pull them away from the seam tape, leaving a big gap to invite dust and
other debris under your carpet. To avoid further problems down the road,
fix loose carpet seams immediately-and always lift furniture, instead of
sliding it.
SEAM PROBLEMS CAN BE CAUSED BY A SNAG, HEAVY FOOT TRAFFIC, POOR
quality, longterm wear, or improper installation. Whatever the cause, if the seams of your
wall-to-wall carpet have begun to come apart, fix them as soon as you can. The longer you
wait, the more likely your carpet is to fray and the more likely debris will start to accumulate
under the carpet. The good news is that the repair requires only minimal skills and simple
tools that you can rent at any carpet dealership. Read on ... you can definitely solve the prob·
lem yourself.

CARPET SEAMS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
- !>lot-melt
seam tape
Subfloor
Carpet seams are held down with seam tape laid over the foam carpet pad. The
tape sticks to the underside of the carpet. If the carpet is set onto the seam SKILLS YOU NEED
tape crookedly, it will leave a noticeable gap. In this case, the tape should be
removed, and the seams should be reset. • Measuring
• Cutting
• Using a seam iron
• Using a small carpet roller
ROWS OF PILE-Pile (also called "nap") is the surface of carpet. Pile is com- DIFFICULTY LEVEL
posed of tufts of yarn, either cut or looped, woven into the back of the carpet.
CUT·PILE CARPET-Carpet composed of tufts of yarn that are cut off at the top,
as opposed to looped.
SEAM TAPE-Hot-glue seam tape or self-adhesive seam tape is used to join car-
pet pieces together.
SUBFLOOR-The base layer of wood or plywood that supports the underlayment This project can be completed in under
and surface flooring. an hour.
FLOORING - Repairing Loose Carpet Seams 269

HOW TO REPAIR A CARPET SEAM
1 Separate the carpet fibers along the seam w ith

your fingers, so you can clearly see the seam. Use
a carpet or utility knife to cut through the seam
tape stuck to the underside of the carpet. Open
up the entire length of the seam and remove any
remaining tape. Be careful not to cut the carpet
pad. If you cut the pad, repair it with duct tape.
2 If there are any loose carpet fibers that could
accidentally be pulled, snip them close to the base
of the carpet.
SAFETY FIRST
e sure to regularly replace the blades in your

B utility knife . A dull utility kn ife requires you
to use more pressure, which makes accurate cut-
3 Measure the length of the split seam and cut ting more d ifficult .
a new piece of hot-melt seam tape to size. Hold
back one edge of carpet (not the carpet pad) while
you slip the seam tape, adhesive side up, under the
seam. Center the tape between the two pieces of
carpet.
4 Place the seam iron on a board or old carpet
remnant and pre-heat it to the appropriate tem-
perature, as recommended by the seam-tape man- 5 Hold back one side of the carpet and place
ufacturer (usually 250 °). the hot iron directly on the tape at one end of the
seam. Hold it there for about 30 seconds, so that it
melts the tape glue. Let the carpet flop down over
the iron and slowly draw the iron along the entire
length of the seam. Go about a foot at a time.
Check to make sure the carpet is not too hot and
then press the carpet down into the heated adhe-
sive with the other hand. As you go, make sure
the backings are butted together. The glue will
harden in just a couple of minutes.
HERE'S HOW
6 Set the carpet to the seam tape by walking

T
o ensure that the carpet will not fray at the
seams, apply a continuous bead of seam glue
over the seam. Alternatively, roll over the seam
along the seam edges.
with a handheld, spiked seam roller (available at
most home-improvement stores).
FLOORING' Repairing Loose Carpet Seams 271

Replacing Ceramic Tiles
7
Removing a damaged tile requires a little elbow grease. The first step is to
weaken the tile with the appropriate tools (as will be explained in this proj-
ect). From that point, the job is much easier if you have a large, sturdy
chisel to remove chunks of the tile.
A CRACKED OR BROKEN CERAMIC TILE IS EASY ENOUGH TO REPLACE, PROVIDED
you have a suitable replacement tile. Before starting this project, shop around a bit for the
replacement tile. If you have to buy a new tile, make sure you only look at tile specifically for
floors. Take the exact measurement of the broken tile with you. If possible, take a fragment of
the tile along with you so the sales person can match the finish and composition. If you
absolutely cannot find a replacement tile, consider turning the problem into a design challenge
by replacing a few tiles in a pattern of your choice with a contrasting tile. If you need to replace
multiple tiles for whatever reason, see page 276 for grouting and sealing large areas.
CERAMIC TILE MATERIALS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
latex ｍｯ､ｩｾ＠ ...

_ Thin Set II/IOr-
Morterode
capa delgada
• modificaCfo
con latex
Replacing a tile requires a new tile, adhesive, grout, and a sealer. The joints
between ceramic tiles are filled with a cement-based filler called "grout." This
must be removed and replaced when a single tile is replaced. It is good to occa-
sionally check the condition of the grout over the entire floor. (To regrout floors,
see page 74). Grout is available in tinted colors to match your tile. You must
also seal all grout lines with silicone sealer. Seal the joints every two years or so.
..
"
--
TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW Rubber gloves %" notched trowel

SKILLS YOU NEED
UNDERLAYMENT-The intermediate layer between the surface flooring material • Hammering and chiseling
and the subfloor. The underlayment for a ceramic tile floor can be plywood or • Trowel work
cementboard. • Grouting and sea ling
THINSET MORTAR-A cement-based adhesive used to adhere ceramic tile to the
underlayment. DIFFICULTY LEVEL
TILE SPACERS-Smail plastic spacers used to position tiles for uniform grout
lines. Available in different sizes to create grout joints of different widths.
GROUT-A very fine cement mortar, sometimes tinted, used to fill the joints
between ceramic tiles.
METAL LATHE-An open fabric of metal that holds poured mortar used as a base
for ceramic tile. You are most likely to see this in older tile installations.
This project can be completed in a day or
CARBIDE·TIPPED GROUT SAw-A scraping tool with a sharp carbide-coated so, including drying time, depending on
blade to remove old, hardened grout. how many tiles need to be replaced.
FLOORING· Rep lacing Ceramic Tiles 273

'---_ HOW TO REPLACE A CERAMIC TILE
1 With a carbide-tipped grout saw, apply ftrm

2 If the tile is not already cracked, use a ham-
mer to puncture the tile by tapping a nail set or
but gentle pressure across the grout until you center punch into it. Alternatively, if the tile is sig-
expose the unglazed edges of the tile. Do not nificantly cracked, use a chisel to pry up the tile.
scratch the glazed tile surface. If the grout is stub-
born, use a hammer and screwdriver to ftrst tap
the tile (Step 2).
4 Use a putty knife to scrape away old thinset

adhesive; use a chisel for poured mortar installa-
tion. Note: If the underlayment is covered with
metal lathe you won't be able to get the area
smooth, just clean it out the best you can. Once
3 To remove the tile, insert a chisel into one of the adhesive is scraped from the underlayment,
the cracks and gently tap the tile. Start at the cen- smooth the rough areas with sandpaper. If there
ter and chip outward so you don't damage the are go uges in the underlayment, fill them with
adjacent tiles. Be aware that cement board looks a epoxy-based thinset mortar (for cementboard) or a
lot like mortar when you're chiseling. Remove and floor-leveling compound (for plywood). Allow the
discard the broken pieces. area to completely dry
SAFETY FIRST TOOL TIP
hipping out a ceramic tile can create flying efore puncturing the
C shards of very sharp ceramic fragments .
When doing this work. use patient. gentle blows
B tile with a nail set, you
may want to weaken the
of your hammer on the chisel. Always wear eye tile by scoring deep fracture
protection when using a hammer and chisel. lines into it with a glasscut-
ter and straightedge.

6 Set the tile in position and press down until it
is even with the adjacent tiles. Twist it a bit to get
it to sit down in the mortar. Use a mallet or ham-
mer and a block of wood covered with cloth or a
5 Use a YI" notched trowel to apply thinset carpet scrap (a 'beater block") to lightly tap on
adhesive to the back of the replacement tile. Set the tile, setting it into the adhesive. Use a level or
the tile down into the space, and use plastic spac- other straight surface to make sure the tile is level
ers around the tile to make sure it is centered with the surrounding tiles. If necessary, continue
within the opening. to tap the tile until it's flush with the rest of the
surrounding tiles.
7 Remove the spacers with needlenose pliers. •

Get the mortar or thinset adhesive out of the
grout joints with a small screwdriver and a cloth. 8 Use a putty knife to apply grout to the joints.
Also, wipe away any adhesive from the surface of Fill in low spots by applying and smoothing extra
the tiles, using a wet sponge. Let the area dry for grout with your finger. Use the round edge of a
24 hours (or according to the manufacrurer's rec- toothbrush handle to create a concave grout line,
ommendations). if desired.
FLOORING' Replacing Ceramic Tiles 275

ALTERNATIVE: HOW TO GROUT & SEAL LARGE AREAS
1 To grout and seal a large area, mix a batch of

floor grout in a bucket, according to the directions
on the label.
2 Pour the grout over the tile, then use a rub-

ber grout float or rubber squeegee to spread it
over the grout joints. Press down with a wiggling
motion to force the grout deeply into the joints.
Then tilt the face of the float 45 ° and diagonally
drag the float across the joints to evenly apply the
grout.
HERE'S HOW
efore applying grout to porous tile, coat the

3 Let the grout set for 10 to 15 minutes, then
use the grout float to remove excess grout from
B tiles with a release agent (sold at tile shops)
to keep the grout from discoloring the tile.
the surface of the tile. Hold the grout float on its
edge and use a scraping motion.

4 Use a barely damp sponge to wipe aw ay
excess grout fro m the surfac e of the tile. Be gentle
with the j oints them selves, though- you don't
want to pull grout out of th e joints you've just
filled.
5 Let the grout dry for about 4 hours, then pol-
ish the tile w ith a soft cloth.
HERE'S HOW
o determine if your grout needs to be

T resealed, test the existing sealer by putting a
few drops of water on a grout line. If the water
6 Use a foam brush to seal the grout after it

beads up, the sealer is still working. If the water
absorbs into the grout, it needs to be resealed.
cures. Do this every 1 to 2 years to protect against
stains and to prevent it from crumbling.
FLOORING· Rep la cing Ceramic Tiles 277

Replacing
Laminate Floorboards
8
As indestructible as laminate floors may seem, minor scratches caused by

normal day-to-day wear and tear are unavoidable. Whether the damaged
plank is close to a wall or in the middle of the floor, this project will show
you how to replace it.
IN THE EVENT THAT YOU NEED TO REPLACE A LAMINATE PLANK, YOU MUST
first determine how to remove the damaged plank. If you have a glueless "floating" floor it
is best to unsnap and remove each plank starting at the wall and moving in until you reach
the damaged plank. However, if the damaged plank is far from the wall it is more time-effi-
cient to cut out the damaged plank (see page 280). Fully-bonded laminate planks have adhe-
sive all along the bottom of the plank and are secured directly to the underlayment. When
you remove the damaged plank you run the risk of gouging the subfloor, so we recommend
calling in a professional if you find that your laminate planks are completely glued to the sub-
floor.
LAMINATE FLOORBOARDS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Wax paper
Kraft paper
Tongue
Core
' J...ｾＺＭ Melamine
backing
From bottom to top, laminate planks are engineered to resist moisture, scratches,
and dents. A melamine base layer protects the inner core layer, which is most
often HDF (high-density fiberboard). This is occasionally followed by kraft
paper saturated in resins for added protection and durability. The print film
is a photographic layer that replicates the look of wood or ceramic. The surface Pencil
is a highly protective wear layer. The tongue-and-groove planks fit together

t ightly and may be (accord ing to manufacturer's instructions) glued together for
Suction
Nail cup
added stability.
-. set

and surface flooring . SKILLS YOU NEED
UNDERLAYMENT-The intermediate layer between the surface flooring material

• Hammering using a nail set
and subfloor. The rollout underlayment for laminate flooring combines a poly-
• Drilling
water barrier and a foam cushion sound barrier. • Using pry bar, chisel , and pliers
FLOATING FLOORS-Flooring that does not fasten directly to the subfloor or • Plunge cutting with a circular saw
underlayment, but rather "floats" on top. The flooring material is held together • Using a router
with a snap-together, interlocking system, either with or without adhesive at the
joints. When replacing a cut out plank, you must use adhesive at the joints where
the tongue-and-groove edges have been removed. DIFFICULTY LEVEL
GLUE LESS LAMINATE FLOORS-Flooring that does not require glue for installa-
tion, but instead relies upon a tight tongue-and-groove system.
FULLY-BONDED LAMINATE FLOORS-Laminate flooring that is attached to the
subfloor with adhesive.
PLUNGE CUT-A technique used to cut out a rectangular area from the center of
a piece of wood. Adjust the cut to the exact wood thickness. Turn on the saw This project can be completed in less than
and ease it down into the wood . Repeat along the entire cutline. a day, not including 24 hours for adhesive
drying time.
FLOORING· Replacing Laminate Floorboards 279

_ _ HOW TO REPLACE LAMINATE PLANKS
Draw a rectangle in the middle of the dam - 2 To protect the floor from chipping, place
aged board with a 1'iz" border between the rectan - painter's tape along the cutlines. Set the circular
gle and factory edges. At each rectangle corner saw depth to the thickness of the replacement
and inside each corner of the plank, use a ham- plank. Plunge cut the damaged plank and push
mer and nail set to make indentations. At each of the saw from the center of the line out to each
these indentations, drill 311 6" holes into the plank. end. Stop \4" in from each corner. Pry up the
Only drill the depth of the plank. middle section and remove.
3 Pry up the remaining outer edges of the

damaged plank, using a scrap 2 x 4 wood block as
leverage. Use a pliers to grab the 112" border strip 4 Place a scrap of cardboard in the opening to
in front of the pry bar. Press downward until a protect the underlayment foam while you remove
gap appears at the joint, and then remove the bor- all of the old glue from the factory edges with a
der piece. Repeat for the other sides. chisel. Vacuum up the wood and glue flakes.

5 To remove the tongues on one long and one 6 Dry-fit the grooves on the replacement board
short end, lay the replacement plank face down into the tongues of the surrounding boards and
onto a protective scrap of plywood (or 2 x 4). press into place. If the board fits snugly in
Clamp a straight cutting guide to the replacement between the surrounding boards, pry the plank up
plank so the distance from the guide causes the bit with a manufacturer suction cup. If the plank does
to align with the tongue and trim it off. Pressing not sit flush with the rest of the floor, check to
the router against the cutting guide, slowly move make sure you routered the edges off evenly Sand
along the entire edge of the replacement plank to any rough edges that should have been completely
remove the tongue. Clean the edges with sandpaper. removed and try to fit the plank again.
7 Set the replacement plank by applying lami- 8 Clean up glue with a damp towel. Place a
nate glue to the removed edges of the replace- strip of wax paper over the new plank and evenly
ment plank and into the grooves of the existing distribute some books on the wax paper. Allow
planks. Firmly press the plank into place. the adhesive to dry for 12 to 24 hours.
FLOORING' Replacing Laminate Floorboards 281

Patching Carpet
9
Large spills often soak into carpet quickly and then start to spread. This
can permanently damage a significant portion of your carpet. In such a
case, a large carpet patch is in order.
IF A RELATIVELY LARGE AREA OF CARPET IS STAINED, BURNED, WORN, OR
damaged, you can replace the damaged section with a matching carpet remnant. A large
patch will likely be noticeable if the surrounding carpet is worn or faded, but a clean patch
will prevent further damage-no matter how much you clean it, a large stain will attract oils
and debris because the surface will be different from that of the surrounding carpet.
If you don't have a leftover remnant, you still have some options: If the carpet isn't too old,
you may be able to find a matching remnant at a carpet dealer. If not, consider cutting a piece
ftom the back of a closet or from under a couch that you don't intend to move. If these
options are unsatisfactory, consider using a different type of carpet altogether and extending
the patch to the nearest transition, such as a door threshold or wall. This will make your car-
pet design unique, and no one will track your inspiration to a damaged piece of carpet!
CARPET PATCHING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Scrap of wood
for cutting Duct
tape
ｾＭ
Before you start, be aware that even the best patching job may be noticeable if
your carpet is faded or very worn. Any difference between the patch and the
surrounding carpet will fade somewhat over time and become less noticeable.
The difference is somewhat minimalized if you make sure the carpet nap of the SKILLS YOU NEED
patch matches the surrounding area (inset).

• Using simple knee kicker
• Cutting
• Hammering tacks
• Gluing
WALL·TO·WALL CARPET-Two layers of woven backing are laid over separate DIFFICULTY LEVEL
padding. Installed by stretching onto tackless strips.
CUSHION·BACKED CARPET-One layer of woven backing is manufactured with

a foam backing bonded to its underside and needs no additional padding . It is
glued to the floor, rather than being installed under tension. Cushion-backed car-
pet was more common 15 years ago than it is now.
EASY MODERATE
K NEE K I C K ER-A tool used for stretching carpet. The teeth at the front end of
the tool grip the carpet; the back end is shaped so the user can apply forward This project can be completed in a
pressure with the knee. couple of hours, not including adhesive
drying time.
FLOORING· Patching Carpet 283

_ _ HOW TO PATCH CARPET
1 Use a utility knife to cut four strips from a 2 Use a marker to draw arrows on tape. Fan
carpet remnant, each a little wider and longer than the carpet with your hand to see which direction
the cuts you plan to make around the damaged the fibers are woven, and then use the pieces of
part of your carpet. Most wall-to-wall carpet is tape to mark that direction on both the carpet sur-
installed under tension; so to relieve that tension, rounding the damaged area and the remnant you
set the knee kicker 6" to 1 ft. from the area to be intend to use as a patch. Place a carpet remnant
cut out and nudge it forward (toward the patch on plywood and cut out a carpet patch slightly
area). If you create a hump in the carpet, you 've larger than the damaged section, using a utility
pushed too hard and need to back off. Now place knife. As you cut, use a Phillips screwdriver to
one of the strips upside down in front of the knee push carpet tufts or loops away from the cutting
kicker and tack it to the floor at 2" to 4" intervals. line. Trim loose pile, and then place the patch
Repeat the same process on the other three sides. right side up over the damaged area.
TOOL TIP
nee kickers have t eeth that gra b the

K carpet backing. These teeth should be
set to grab the backing without grabbing
the padding. There is an adjustable knob to
do th is. You can t e ll if the knee kicker is
grabbing the padding by the increased
pressure needed to move it forward. To
release the tension just before a damaged
area of carpet you intend to patch, place
the feet on the floo r and use you r knee to
press it toward the damaged area .
284 THE C O M PLETE PHO T O GUIDE TO HOM EOWN E R BASI CS

3 Tack one edge of the patch through the dam-
aged carpet and into the floor, making sure the
patch covers the entire damaged area. Use a utility
knife to cut out the damaged carpet, following the
border of the new patch as a template. If you cut
into the carpet padding, use duct tape to mend it.
Remove the patch and the damaged carpet square.
4 Cut four lengths of carpet seam tape, each
about 1" longer than an edge of the cut out area,
using a utility knife or scissors. Cover half of each
strip with a thin layer of seam adhesive and then
slip the coated edge of each strip, sticky side up,
along the underside edges of the original carpet.
Apply more adhesive to the exposed half of tape,
and use enough adhesive to fill in the tape weave.
WHAT IF . . . ?
f you have cushion-backed, fully-bonded car-

Ipet, you can follow the instructions above to
make a large patch, except:
1. You won't need a knee kicker.
2. Use a putty knife to scrape away any dried
5 Line up your arrows and press the patch into

cement from the hole you make.
3. Apply multi-purpose flooring adhesive to the

place. Take care not to press too much, because
glue that squeezes up onto the newly laid carpet floor with a 31.12" trowel.
creates a mess. Use an awl to free rufts or loops of 4. Instead of seam tape, just use a thin bead of
pile crushed in the seam. Lightly brush the pile of cushion-back seam adhesive along the
the patch to make it blend with the surrounding perimeter of the hole.
carpet. Leave the patch undisturbed for 24 hours.
Check the drying time on the adhesive used and
wait at least this long before removing the carpet
tacks.
FLOORING' Patching Carpet 285

Removing Resilient Flooring
\.
:' .
If adhesives are not properly removed before installing new resilient floor-
ing, the oils may chemically react to the new material and produce a yel-
low discoloration, essentially destroying the vinyl floor. These spots cannot
be removed with cleaning products. In these cases, the old resilient floor-
ing should be removed entirely before you install new flooring.
REMOVING GLUED-DOWN RESILIENT FLOORING IS LABOR INTENSIVE, BUT IT'S
necessary to do so if the surface is in very poor condition (or if you plan to replace the old
resilient flooring with ceramic tile). Oils that cause yellow discoloration can eventually dry
out and crack or seep through the vinyl, damaging new floor laid on top of it. Moreover, any
unevenness or debris under the old vinyl will clearly show through new resilient flooring.
Note: It is true that resilient floor can serve as the foundation for most new floorings, includ-
ing resilient flooring, hardwood, or carpet, but only if the existing surface is smooth and
sound. Even if the existing flooring has loose seams, small tears, or air bubbles, then you
must apply embossing leveler to the entire floor and let it dry before laying new resilient
flooring. Alternatively, you can lay a new ｾＢ＠ plywood underlayment over the old floor or you
can remove the entire subfloor with the vinyl flooring and lay a new subfloor. These meth-
ods are worth consideration if you find that the subfloor is being heavily damaged as you
begin to remove full-spread sheet vinyl, but they are also very time-consuming and require a
considerable amount of precision.
SHEET FLOORING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Spray
bOttle
Perimeter-bond
flooring
detergent Duct Hammer

tape
Full-spread
sheet vinyl
scraper
Resilient sheet vinyl comes in full-spread and perimeter-bond styles_ Full-spread i.iii;
Utility
knife ii
sheet vinyl has felt-paper backing and is secured with adhesive that's spread Wet/dry vac
over the entire floor before installation_ Perimeter-bond flooring, identifiable by

• Optional
its smooth, white PVC backing, is laid directly on the underlayment and is
secured by adhesive spread along the edges and seams_
TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW SKILLS YOU NEED
SUBFLOOR-The base layer of wood or plywood that supports the underlayment • Cutting with a utility knife
and surface flooring_ • Scraping
UNDERLAYMENT-The intermediate layer between the surface flooring material • Using a heat gun
and the subfloor_
PERIMETER-BOND SHEET VINYL-A synthetic resilient flooring that is installed DIFFICULTY LEVEL
in a single sheet, cut to fit the room it will be installed in, and glued to the
underlayment at the room's edges_
FULL-SPREAD SHEET VINYL-A synthetic resilient flooring that is installed in a

single sheet, cut to fit the room it will be installed in, and glued to the underlay-
ment on a full-room bed of adhesive_
EASY MODERATE
FLOOR SCRAPER-Designed like a shovel, a floor scraper removes resilient floor-
ing products and scrapes off leftover adhesives or backings_ The long handle pro- Th is project can be completed in a few
vides leverage and force, and it allows you to work in a comfortable standing hours_
position_
FLOORING· Removing Resilient Flooring 287

HOW TO REMOVE RESILIENT SHEET FLOORING
1 Remove baseboards. Beginning in a corner of 2

...
Once the adhesive is warm, insert a wide-
the room, slowly move a heat gun back and forth blade putty knife under the loosened corner and
4 to 6" above the floor until you can pry up the pry back the flooring. If the glue is only around
corner. Alternatively, to use an iron, place alu- the perimeter of the room, measure from the wall
minum foil on the floor to prevent melting or to the approximate point where the glue stops and
burning the floor, and keep the temperature at a cut a strip that wide along the entire perimeter of
low setting (inset). the room (inset). Go on to Step 3, knowing you
will remove the strip you just cut along the wall last.
3 With a utility knife, cut the flooring into

strips about three feet wide (or smaller, if you find
smaller strips are easier to handle and have the
extra time needed for extra cutting and rolling). If
you have perimeter-installed sheet flooring, start 4 Start pulling up the strips by hand. Grip the
cutting the strips inside the perimeter cut you material close to the floor to minimize tearing.
made in Step 2. Simply roll up the strips and bind Dispose of the waste in heavy-duty construction
them with duct tape (inset). garbage bags.

6 For stubborn spots, peel up as much of the
floor covering as possible, using a putty knife.
Spray a solution of water and liquid dishwashing
detergent under the surface layer to separate the
5 Scrape the remaining sheet vinyl and back- backing. With the help of the detergent, continue
ing, using a floor scraper. Use a hammer to tap a to use the putty knife to scrape up the srubborn
putty knife under loose edges to chip apart pieces. patches.
8 Now you just need to sweep up the debris

and clean up with a wet / dry vacuum. To contain
th e dust, fill the wet vac with about 1" of water.
HERE'S HOW
7 For very sticky and srubborn glue, hold a

S ome old linoleum is secured to the floor with
a tar-based adhesive. Tar-based adhesives are
heat gun about 4 to 6" above the floor. Constantly
move the heat gun as you scrape the gooey mess dark or tan colored and can be scrubbed away
with steel wool and mineral spirits (or paint
into a pile with a wide-blade putty knife.
thinner).
Occasionally pick up glue and dispose of it, and
wipe the putty knife clean.
FLOORING· Removing Resilient Flooring 289

Removing Carpet
When removing fully-bonded. cushion-backed carpet. be prepared to find

carpet adhesive and foam padding on the floor underneath. It is a time-
consuming process to remove the adhesive. but your new floor is well
worth the effort needed to properly prepare a clean. level underlayment.
REMOVING CARPET IS NECESSARY IF IT HAS BEEN BADLY DAMAGED OR YOU ARE
ready to install a different type of flooring. It is time-consuming work, but you can save
money by removing carpet even if you intend to hire someone to install new flooring. Carpet
is either installed with tack strips along the perimeter of a room, with adhesive spread along
the perimeter of the room, or with adhesive spread along the entire floor.

CARPET BACKING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
--
Sendpaper
ｾ＠
UtIlity
knlf.
Sefety
glasseo.- - - -
Perimeter tackless strips

with an independent pad
Floor
Wall-to-wall carpet is stretched and secured to tackless strips along the perime- scraper
ter of the room . Once lifted from the strips, the carpet and pad can be rolled
up. The tackless strips are often nailed down and must be removed. Cushion-
backed carpet has a foam backing bonded to it. It is secured to the floor with gen-
eral-purpose adhesive. When removing this carpet, pieces of the pad will stick to
the floor. Removing all of the stubborn pieces requires time and a considerable Vacuum
cleaner
amount of effort.
SKILLS YOU NEED
• Cutting
TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW • Using a pry bar
• Pulling up staples
SUBFLOOR-The base layer of wood or plywood that supports the underlay-
ment and surface flooring.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
WALL· TO-WALL CARPET-Carpet with two layers of woven backing. Usually, it's
laid over separate padding. Installed by stretching onto tackless strips.
CUSHION-BACKED CARPET-One layer of woven backing is manufactured with

a foam backing bonded to its underside and needs no additional padding.
Usually, it's glued to the floor, rather than being installed under tension.
TACKLESS STRIPS ("TACK STRIPS")-Plywood strips with 2 to 3 rows of sharp EASY MODERATE
nails angled away from the center of the room. The strips are installed along the
This project can be completed in a day.
perimeter to hold wall-to-wall carpet in place.
FLOORING· Removing Carpet 291

_ _ HOW TO REMOVE CARPEI_
1 Because you're about to be handling your old

carpet for a few hours, vacuum the entire floor
thoroughly.
2 Use a utility knife to cut around metal thresh-

old strips. Use a flat pry bar to lift up the strips
until they release from the floor. Dispose the strips
in construction-grade garbage bags. You may be
able to pull the carpet up without removing the
baseboards.
WHAT IF . . . ?
f you do not find tackless strips, your carpet

I is secured with adhesive-either around the
perimeter or everywhere. If it's just around the
perimeter, pull back the carpet in a corner of
the room until it is no longer bonded to the
floor with adhesive. From that point, measure
out away from the wall about 1 ft. past the
glue and cut around the perimeter of the
3 Use pliers to grab carpet fibers along the

room, using a utility knife. For now, leave one
wall side uncut. This side will hold the carpet
edge of the room; then lift the carpet to release in place when you beg in to cut strips.
it from the tack strips. Continue to release the
carpet from tack strips along the room perimeter.

4 Use your utility knife to cut the carpet into
strips. Once part of the first strip of carpet is lift-
ed, lay a scrap 2 x 4 under the carpet and use that 5 Roll up the strips of carpet and secure them
as a cutting base- this step is necessary only if with duct tape. You may have to pull up on the
you want to protect the floor underneath (for strips with some effort if the carpet pad is stapled
example, if you have wood floors). After the first down. If you were not able to cut through the car-
strip is cut, set the board on top of the carpet and pet pad, you will have to cut that into strips and roll
fold the carpet back over the board, cutting from the strips up once the carpet is removed. If you have
the underside. You may be able to cut the carpet perimeter-bonded carpet you must now remove the
pad and carpet at the same time; if not, you can remaining perimeter piece glued to the floor.
cut the carpet pad separately later. Cut the strips
into sizes that are manageable to you.
7 To remove tack strips, slowly and patiently

lift the strips up with a pry bar. Place a thin piece
of hard material (like a piece of ｾＢ＠ wood veneer)
under the pry bar to protect the floor. Tack strips
are attached to the floor with small nails spaced
6 Sweep up pieces of carpet padding and put approximately 6 to 8" apart. The pry bar is most
them into a construction-grade garbage bag. If the effective when placed directly under these points.
pad was held down with staples, don't clean away If it is difficult to insert the pry bar under the tack
the bits of pad still attached to the staples- the strip in places, use a hammer to tap the short bent
padding makes it easier to find and remove the end of the pry bar underneath the tack strip
staples. where it is attached by a nail; then pry back.
FLOORING' Removing Carpet 293
Sealing Concrete Floors
Although concrete is most common in garages and basements, it is not

limited to these parts of the house. Along with stainless steel appliances,
warehouse and loft construction, and industrial design, concrete floors are
part of today's design trends, making concrete maintenance and repair
increasingly relevant to today's homeowner.
CONCRETE IS A VERSATILE BUILDING MATERIAL. MOST PEOPLE ARE ACCUSTOMED
to thinking of concrete primarily as a utilitarian substance, but it can also mimic a variety of
flooring types and be a colorful and beautiful addition to any room.
Whether your concrete floor is a practical surface for the garage or an artistic statement of
personal style in your dining room, it should be sealed. Concrete is a hard and durable build-
ing material, but it is also porous. Consequently; concrete floors are susceptible to staining.
Many stains can be removed with the proper cleaner, but sealing and painting prevents oil,
grease, and other stains from penetrating the surface in the first place; thus, cleanup is a
whole lot easier.
CONCRETE SEALING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Even after degreasing a concrete floor, residual grease or oils can create serious
adhesion problems for coatings of sealant or paint. To check to see whether
your floor has been adequately cleaned, pour a glass of water on the concrete
floor. If it is ready for sealing, the water will soak into the surface quickly and
evenly. If the water beads, you may have to clean it again. Detergent used in
combination with a steam cleaner can remove stubborn stains better than a
cleaner alone.
SKILLS YOU NEED
There are four important reasons to seal your concrete floor:
• To protect the floor from dirt, oil, grease, chemicals, and stains • Cleaning
• To dust-proof the surface • Sweeping
• Painting floors
• To protect the floor from abrasion and sunlight exposure
• Vacuuming
• To repel water and protect the floor from freeze-thaw damage • Working with strong acids
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
CONCRETE-A mixture of portland cement, water, and mineral aggregate (usual-

ly sand and gravel). Sometimes fly ash, pozzolans, or other additives are included
in the mix.
EASY MODERATE
ACID ETCHING-This is a technique in which acid is used to open the pores in
concrete surfaces so a sealer can bond to it. This project can be completed in a
weekend.
FLOORING· Sealing Concrete Floors 295

_ _ HOW TO SEAL CONCRETE
1 Clean and prepare the surface by fust sweep- 2 Saturate the surface with clean water. The
ing up all debris. Next, remove all surface muck: surface needs to be wet before acid etching. Use
mud, wax, and grease. Finally, remove existing this opportunity to check for any areas where
paints or coatings. See the chapter on cleaning water beads up. If water beads on the surface,
concrete for tips on using cleaners specially contaminants still need to be cleaned off with a
designed for concrete floors. suitable cleaner or chem ical stripper.
HERE'S HOW
P repare the concrete for sealer application by acid etching. Etching opens the pores in concrete surfaces,
allowing sealers to bond with it. All smooth or dense concrete surfaces, such as garage floors, should be
etched before applying stain. The surface should feel gritty, like 120-grit sandpaper, and allow water to pene-
trate it. If you're not sure whether your floor needs to be etched or not, it's better to etch. If you don't etch
when it is needed, you have to remove the sealer residue before trying again. This easily becomes a time-
consuming process that is best to avoid from the get-go.
THERE IS A VARIETY OF ACID ETCHING PRODUCTS AVAILABLE :
CITRIC ACID is a biodegradable acid that does not produce chlorine fumes. It is the safest etcher and the easi-
est to use, but it may not be strong enough fo r some very smooth concretes.
SULFAMIC ACID is less aggressive than phosphoric acid or muriatic acid, and it is perhaps the best compromise
between strength of solution and safety.
PHOSPHORIC ACID is a stronger and more noxious acid than the previous two, but it is considerably less dan-
ge rous than muriatic acid . It is currently the most popular etch ing choice.
MURIATIC ACID (Hydrochloric Acid) is an extremely dangerous acid t hat quickly reacts and creates very strong
fumes . This is an etching solution of last resort. It should only be used by professionals or by the most serious
DIYers.
NOTE : Never add water to acid-only add acid to water.

3 Test your acid-tolerant pump sprayer with
water to make sure it releases a wide, even mist.
Once you have the spray nozzle set, check the
manufacturer's instructions for the etching solu-
tion and fill the pum p sprayer w ith the recom -
mended am ount of water.
4 Add the acid etching contents to the water in

the acid-tolerant pump sprayer (or sprinkling can).
Follow the directions (and mixing proportions)
specified by the manufacturer. Use caution.
SAFETY FIRST
All of these acids are dangerous. Use caution.
With any of these acid etches it is critical that

there be adequate ventilation and that you wear
protective clothing including:
• Safety goggles
• Respirator
5 Apply the acid solution. Using the sprinkling • Rubber gloves

can or acid-tolerant pump spray unit, evenly apply • Rubber boots
the diluted acid solution over the concrete floor. Do
• Long pants and a long-sleeve shirt (to prevent
not allow acid solution to dry at any time during the
acid contact with the skin)
etching and cleaning process. Etch sm all areas at a
time, 10 x 10 ft. or smaller. If there is a slope, begin
on the low side of the slope and work upward.
FLOORING· Se a ling Concrete Floor s 297

HOW TO SEAL CONCRETE (CONTINUED)
7 Once the fizzing has stopped, the acid has

finished reacting with the alkaline concrete sur-
face and formed pH-neutral salts. Neutralize any
remaining acid with an alkaline-base solution. Put
6 Use a stiff bristle broom or scrubber to work a gallon of water in a 5-gallon bucket and then stir
the acid solution into the concrete. Let the acid sit in an alkaline-base neutralizer. Using a stiff bristle
for 5- 10 minutes, or as indicated by the manufac- broom, make sure the concrete surface is com-
turer's directions. A mild foaming action indicates pletely covered with the solution. Continue to
that the product is working. If no bubbling or sweep until the fizzing stops.
fizzing occurs, it means there is still grease, oil, or
a concrete treatment on the surface that is inter-
fering with the etching product.
WHATIF . . . ?
f no fizzing occurs when the acid solution is put

I on the concrete, stop the process and clean the
surface. Use a nylon bristle scrub brush to scrub
the area with hot liquid dish soap and water,
laundry soap and water, or a biodegradable
degreasing cleaner. You can also try using a pres-
sure washer. If degreasing doesn 't solve the
problem, the concrete may already be sealed
with a concrete sealer. A surface sealer can only
8 Use a garden hose with a pressure nozzle or,
ideally, a pressure washer in conjunction with a
be removed mechanically by abrasive blasting;
stiff bristle broom to thoroughly rinse the con-
penetrant sealers may not be removable at all.
crete surface. Rinse the surface 2 to 3 times. Re-
apply the acid (repeat Steps 5, 6, 7, and 8).
298 T H E COMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO HOMEOWNER BASICS

9 If you have any leftover acid you can make it
safe for your septic system by mixing more alka-
line solution in the 5-gallon bucket and carefully
pouring the acid from the spray unit into the
bucket until all of the fizzing stops.
10 Use a wet-vacuum to clean up the mess.

Some sitting acids and cleaning solutions can harm
local vegetation, damage your drainage system,
and are just plain environmentally unfriendly.
Check your local disposal regulations for proper
disposal of the neutralized spent add.
TOOL TIP
ix one of these alkaline products with a

M gallon of water for a suitable acid-
neutralizing solution:
11 To check for residue, rub a dark cloth over

• One cup of ammonia
OR
a small area of concrete. If any white residue
• Four cups of gardener'S lime
appears, continue the rinsing process. Check for OR
residue again. You may be sick of the cleanup by • A generous amount of baking soda
now, but an inadequate acid rinse is even worse OR
than not acid etching at all when it's time to add • 4 oz. of "Simple Green" cleaning solution
the sealant.
FLOORING' Sea ling C oncr ete Floor s 299

_ _ HOW TO SEAL CONCRETE (CONTINUED)
12 Let the concrete dry fo r at least 24 hours

and sweep up dust, dirt, and particles leftover
from the acid etching process. Your concrete
should now have the consistency of l20-grit sand- 13 Once etched, clean, and dry, your con-
paper and be able to accept concrete sealants. crete is ready for clear sealer or liquid repellent.
Mix the sealer in a bucket with a stir sti ck. Lay
painter's tape down for a testing patch. Apply seal-
er to this area and allow to dry to ensure desired
TOOL TIP appearance. Concrete sealers tend to m ake the
surface slick when wet. Add an anti-skid additive
THERE ARE BASICALLY TWO CATEGORIES OF to aid with traction, especially on stairs.
SEALERS:
FILM FORMERS create a barrier on the con-

crete's surface, blocking penetration of water
and contaminants and providing a gloss or
WHATIF . . . ?
sheen. Film formers do not allow the concrete to
breathe; they may trap moisture beneath the
he most common sealing practice is to use
concrete surface. In cold areas this results in
cracks due to the moisture freezing and
T clear sealant but there are also stained
sealants and paints.
expanding.
If you decide to paint instead of applying a clear
PENETRANTS increase water repellency and
or stained sealant, be sure to use paint designed
stain resistance by actually penetrating into the
concrete surface to a depth of about 1 to 4 mils, for concrete floors. Also, once the paint has
dried for a few days, apply two or three coats of
providing an invisible protection without chang-
water-based polyurethane.
ing the surface appearance.

15 Use a long-handled paint roller with at least
12" nap to apply an even coat to the rest of the
surface. Do small sections at a time (about 2' x 3').
14 Use wide painter's tape to protect walls

Work in one orientation (e.g. , north and south).
Avoid lap marks by always maintaining a wet edge.
and then, using a good quality 4"-wide synthetic
Do not work the area once the coating has partial-
bristle paintbrush, coat the perimeter with sealer.
ly dried; this could cause it to lift from the surface.
Allow surface to dry according to the manufactur-
er's instructions, usually 8 to 12 hours, minimum.
16 Apply a second coat in the opposite direc-

tion to the first coat, so if the first coat was north 17 Clean tools, wet ! dry vac and spray equip-
to south, the second coat should be east to west. ment with clean, warm water or mineral spirits.
FLOORING· Sealing Concrete Floors 301

Refinishing Hardwood Floors
Reviving your hardwood floors is definitely worth the hard work. By refin-
ishing a tired-looking floor you suddenly realize why hardwood floors are
so durable and long-lasting: They clean up beautifully.
MAKING WORN AND DUll HARDWOOD FLOORS lOOK NEW AGAIN DRAMATICAL-
lY IMPROVES THE APPEARANCE OF A HOME. And the fact that very old hardwood
floors can be completely restored to showroom condition is one of their real advantages over
other types of flooring. Refinishing floors is time-consuming, messy, and disruptive to your
household routine. Depending on the size of the room, be prepared to devote a weekend,
minimally, to this project.
If you don't want to do the entire job yourself, you can still save money by doing some prep
work yourself. Professionals often add on additional fees for removing and replacing shoe
molding, nailing or gluing down loose boards, filling gouges and dents with wood putty, set-
ting protruding nails, putting up plastic, cleaning the floor, and even moving furniture.
NOT E: If your floors are less than 11.2" thick, they are probably unsuitable for refmishing.

REFINISHING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Refinishing a floor
requires some heavy
machinery, namely
drum and edge
sanders that may be
Edge sander
and sandpaper rented from home
stores or floor rental
establishments. You
can purchase sand-
paper at the time of
the rental.
TYPES OF FINISHES
SURFACE FINISH-A floor finish applied to the wood surface, providing a harder
and more durable coating than a sealer with a wax covering (for example,
polyurethane (oil· or water-based) varnish, shellac, and lacquer).
PENETRANT FINISH-Penetrant floor finishes seep into the wood pores and
become an integral part of the wood (for example, stains or sealers).
STAINS-Penetrants that alter the natural color of the wood. They can be used
with a surface finish or protected with a sealer and wax. SKILLS YOU NEED
SEALERS-Either clear or tinted penetrants that need to be protected with a • Operating power sa nd e rs
wax or surface finish . • Using a large stapler
WAx-Wood floors not protected with a surface finish need to be covered with a • Scraping floor with paint scraper
coat of liquid, non·waterbased wax. Wax is not as durable as surface finish; peri- • Applying polyuretha ne finish with a
odically, it must be reapplied. The advantage is that patched areas easily blend in. pad and brush
• Hamme ring
TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW DIFFICULTY LEVEL
REFIN ISHING FLOORS-Aggressively sanding floors to entirely remove previous

finish and to level the floor before reapplying new floor finish.
FEATHER SAND-Sanding with lighter and lighter strokes as you move away
from a more heavily sanded area. This creates a smooth transition between sand-
EASY MODERATE
ed and non-sanded areas.
This project can be completed in a
ZIP DOOR-A plastic sheet with a long vertical zipper. It's taped over entryways
weekend (not including drying time
for a convenient way to enter and exit rooms for the duration of a project. between finish coats).
FLOORING· Refinishing Hardwood Floor s 303

_ _ HOW TO REF INISH HARDWOOD FLOORS
1 Staple plastic on all doorways. Place a zip

door over the entryway you plan to use for the
duration of the project. 2 Use painter's tape and plastic to cover heating
and cooling registers, ceiling fa ns, and light
fixtures.
SAFETY FIRST
E ven with proper ventilation, inhaling saw-

dust is a health risk. We recommend getting
a respirator. If you don't use one, you must at
least wear a dust mask. Eye protection is also a
must; and you'll thank yourself for buying a
good pair of strong work gloves-they make the
sander vibrations a little more bearable.
Important! Always unplug the sander whenever

3 Finally, place a fan in a nearby window to loading or unloading sandpaper.
blow the circulating dust outside.
SHOPPING TIP : SANDPAPER
Grits Grade Use

20, 30,40,60 Coarse To level uneven boards.
100,120 Medium To minimize scratches from coarse grits.
150,180 Fine To eliminate scratches from medium grits.
andpaper becomes less effective over t ime; it may even rip. Buy 3-5 sheets of every grade for each room
S you want to refinish . You won't use them all, but most rentals allow you to return what you don 't use. It's
far better to have too many than to find yourself unable to continue until the next day because you ran out and
the hardware store is closed.
Reminder: Before you leave the rental shop, have an employee explain to you how to load the paper. Every
mach ine is a little different.
304 THE COMPLETE PH O TO GU I DE TO HOMEOW N ER BAS IC S

4 Wedge a pry bar between the shoe molding
and baseboards. Move along the wall as nails 5 Practice with the drum sander turned off.
loosen. Once removed, place a scrap 2 x 4 board Move forward and backward. Tilt or raise it off
against the wall and, with a pry bar, pry out base- the floor a couple of times. A drum sander is heavy,
board at nails (inset). Maintain the gap with wood bulky, and awkward. Once it touches the floor, it
shims. Number the sections for easy replacement. walks forward; if you stop it, it gouges the floor.
Place wide masking tape along the baseboards.
Drive protruding nails in floor \.t" below the sur-
face with a nail set.
6 For the initial pass with the drum sander,

7 When you get to the far left side of the
sand with the grain, using 40- or 60-grit paper; if
room, turn the machine around and repeat the
there are large scratches, use 20 or 30. Start two-
process. Overlap the sanded two-thirds to feather
thirds down the room length on the right side;
out the ridgeli ne.
work your way to the left. Raise drum. Start
motor. Slowly lower drum to floor. Lift the sander Repeat the sanding process 3 or 4 more times
off the floor when you reach the wall. Move to using 120-grit sandpaper. Sand the entire floor. For
the left 2 to 4" and then walk it backwards the the final passes, use finer sandpaper (150- to 180-
same distance you just walked forward. Repeat. grit) to remove scratches left by coarser papers.
FLOORING' Refinishing Hardwood Floors 305
HOW TO REFINISH HARDWOOD FLOORS (CONTINUED)
Power edge
sand er
8 To sand hard-to-reach spots, first use a power

edge sander along the walls, using the same grit
that you last used with the drum sander. Make a
succession of overlapping half-circles starting in
the corner on one wall. Pull out in an arc and then
swirl back to the wall. Continue around the room.
Blend together any lines left by the drum and
edge sanders by running a rotary buffer over the
floor twice: first with an 80-grit screen and then 9 Use a paint scraper to get to corners and
with a 1DO-grit screen. Finally, use a 5" random hard-to-reach nooks and crannies. Pull the scraper
orbital sander to smooth out the floor. The ran- toward you with a steady downward pressure. Pull
dom motion naturally feathers out bumps. with the grain. Next, sand with a sanding block.
HERE ' S HOW
D uring the refinishing process it is very likely

you will have to change the sandpaper and
empty the contents of the dust bag. You should
empty the contents of the dust bag when it is
two-thirds ful l. When the machine is turned off,
you can see how full the bag is. To check the
wear of the sandpaper, turn off your machine
every so often and tilt back the mach ine to
check the paper on the underside. If it appears
to be th inning, you want to change it.
Correctly replacing the sandpaper can be tricky.

A rental professional should be able to walk you
through the steps to change the paper and t he
dust bag, so be sure to consult with him or her
10 Prepare the room for finish by sweeping
and vacuuming. Remove plastic on the doors, win-
before you leave the store.
dows, and fIXtures. Sweep and vacuum again. Wipe
up fine particles with a tack cloth.
306 THE C OMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO HOMEOWN E R BASI CS

11 Apply polyurethane finish. Mix equal
parts water-based polyurethane and water. Use a
natural bristle brush to apply the mixture along
walls and around obstacles. To apply the mixture
in the middle of the room, use a painting pad on a 12 Allow the finish to dry after each coat.
pole. Apply 2 coats diagonally across the grain and Lightly buff the floor with a fine to medium abra-
a final coat in the direction of the grain. sive pad (or buffmg pad). Clean the floor with a
damp cloth and wipe the area dry with a towel.
14 After the final coat is dry, buff the surface

with water and a fine abrasive pad. This removes
13 Apply at least two coats of undiluted surface imperfections and diminishes gloss. After
polyurethane fmish to get a hard, durable finish. finishing, wait at least 72 hours before replacing
Allow the fmish to dry; repeat Step 12 and then the shoe molding. Your newly refinished floor is
add a final coat. Do not overbrush. now complete!
FLOORING· Refinishing Hardwood Floors 307

Painting Wood Floors
Just when it appears as though you've hit a wall in reviving your tired,
wornout wood floor, try a coat of paint to bring back its brilliance. You'll
be pleasantly surprised with the paint's ability to not only disguise flaws
but its ability to add warmth and character to the room.
PAINT IS A QUICK, COST-EFFECTIVE WAY TO COVER UP WOOD FLOORS THAT
may need work, but a floor doesn't have to be distressed or damaged to benefit from paint-
ing. Floors in perfect condition in both formal and informal spaces can be decorated with
paint to add color and personality. For example, one could unify a space by extending a paint-
ed floor through a hallway to a staircase. And stencil designs or faux finishes can make an
oversized room feel cozy and inviting. There are even techniques for disguising worn spots.
One such disguising method also happens to create a fun, yet classical design: the checker-
board pattern allows homeowners to hide worn boards under a darker color while still main-
taining a unique floor.

FLOOR PAINTING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU'LL NEED
Sandpaper
Putty Nail
To paint a wood floor you must apply primer first; then you apply the paint and knife set
you follow that with a polyurethane sealer. Make sure the products you choose
are specifically for floors.
SKILLS YOU NEED
• Cleaning and sanding

• Using a hammer and nail set
• Using a paintbrush and roller
LACQUER THINNER-A strong, highly flammable solvent such as ethyl alcohol,
ethyl acetate and toluene that is used to dilute, dissolve and clean up lacquer
based paints, ink and adhesive residue. DIFFICULTY LEVEL
PRIMER-A specially·formulated paint that is used to seal raw surfaces and to
provide a base coat of paint that succeeding finish coats can better adhere to.
WATER·BASED POLYURETHANE-A clear finish used for coating natural or

stained wood that provides a durable, glossy surface that is highly resistant to
water, is just as durable as oil·based polyurethane, is easier to clean·up, and does
EASY MODERATE
not produce a yellowing discoloration.
SEALER-A finish coating, either clear or pigmented, that is applied on top of This project can be completed in a day
the paint. (not including drying time), depending
upon how much prep work is needed
and how large the room is.
FLOORING' Painting Wood Floors 309

ｾ｟ｈｏｗ＠ TO PAINT WOOD FLOORS
1 Prepare the painting area by first moving fur-

niture. Lift pieces instead of dragging them to pre-
vent gouges. Sweep or vacuum.
2 Use a paint scraper to smooth rough spots.
Use a pole sander to sand with the grain of the
wood. For coarse wood, use medium-grit sandpa-
per. Scuff glossy hardwoods with fine sandpaper
(# 120) for good adhesion.
3 When finished sanding, sweep or vacuum.

Use a damp cloth to remove fine dust. Use a cloth
dampened with lacquer thinner for a fmal clean- 4 Protect the baseboards with wide painter's
ing. If you see any nails sticking up, tap them tape. Press the tape edges down so paint doesn't
down with a hammer and nail set. seep underneath.
5 Mix primer well. Use a 4"-wide brush to apply 6 To mix paint, pour half of the paint into
the primer around the perimeter of the room. another can, stirring the paint in both containers
Then paint the remaining floor with a roller on an with a wooden stir stick before recombining them.
extension pole. Allow the primer to dry. As you stir, you want a smooth consistency
7 Paint. Use a 4" brush to apply a semi-gloss

paint around the border. To paint the rest of the 8 Apply 2 or 3 coats of a matte-finish, water-
floor, use a roller on an extension pole. Always based polyurethane sealer, using a painting pad on
roll from a dry area to a wet area to minimize lap a pole. Allow the sealer to dry. Sand with a pole
lines. Allow paint to dry Apply second coat of sander, using fine sandpaper. Clean up dust with a
paint. Allow to dry. tack cloth.
FLOORING· Painting Wood Floors 311

Installing Laminate Flooring
The rich wood tones of beautiful laminate planks may cause you to imagine
hours of long, hard installation work, but this is a DIY project that you
can do in a single weekend. Buy the manufactured planks at a home-
improvement or flooring store and install laminate flooring with the step-
by-step instructions offered in the following pages.
LAMINATE FLOORING COMES IN A FLOATING SYSTEM THAT IS SIMPLE TO INSTALL,
even if you have no experience with other home-improvement projects. You may install a
floating laminate floor right on top of plywood, concrete slab, sheet vinyl, or hardwood floor-
ing (follow the manufacturer's instructions). The pieces are available in planks or squares in
a variety of different sizes, colors, and faux finishes- including wood and ceramic. Tongue-
and-groove edges lock pieces together, and the entire floor floats on the underlayment. At the
end of this project there are a few extra steps to take if your flooring manufacturer recom-
mends using glue on the joints.

LA MIN AT E J 0 IN TS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
locking flange Tongue

bottom.
Locking flange top
/
Groo.,e
The joint design for laminate planks and squares is intended to make installation
and replacement a breeze, while also providing a barrier from moisture and
debris. Today, tongue-and-groove joints are often supplemented with positively
locking flanges to provide a tight fit on both the top and bottom of the board.
The tongue on one side fits into the groove of the adjacent board; then the the
plank is "clicked" into place by pressing down on the plank to join the flanges.
Planks without the snap-together ("click") feature sometimes require glue for
an extra snug fit (read the manufacturer's instructions carefully and follow all
recommendations).
For shoe molding removal and replacement: pry

bar, wood shims, chisel, hammer, nail set, finish
nails.
TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW For glued laminate flooring:
Wood block, rubber mallet, 1/.2" spacers, strap
clamps, damp cloth, plastic scraper.
SUBFLOOR-The base layer of wood or plywood that supports the underlay-
ment and surface flooring. SKILLS YOU NEED
UNDERLAYMENT-The intermediate layer between the surface floor and the
• Measuring
subfloor.
• Using a drawbar
FLOATING FLOORS-Floors that are not fastened to the subfloor or underlay- • Drilling
me nt, but rather "float" on top. The flooring is held together with a snap- • Simple cuts with a circular saw
together, interlocking system. • Gluing
GLUELESS LAMINATE FLOORING (also called "click-floors")-Laminate flooring that • Possibly ripcuts with a jigsaw
does not require glue for installation, but instead relies upon tight tongue-and- If removing base molding:
groove joints. No-glue flooring is far easier to install and repair than glued lami- • Chiseling
nate flooring, but it may not be as resistant to moisture-so avoid installing it in • Hammering
bathrooms or basements. • Countersinking nails
GLUED LAMINATE FLOORING-Laminate flooring that requires glue at each plank
joint in order to effectively seal together the tongue-and-groove planks. DIFFICULTY LEVEL
DRAWBAR-A metal bar used to pull together the final two planks in a row. There
are two hooks-one to attach to the end of a plank close to the wall (where a
rubber mallet would not fit to tap the final plank into the adjacent plank), and
one on the other end to pull the plank in tight with the adjacent board.
STRAP CLAMPS-A device used to hold several planks together tightly while adhe- EASY MODERATE
sive in between joints dries. This project can be completed in
a weekend.
FLOORING' Installing Laminate Flooring 313

_ _ HOW TO INSTALL LAMINATE FLOORING
HERE'S HOW
aminate flooring, like hardwood, can shrink

L or expand when the temperature or humidity
in a room changes. This movement can cause
planks to buckle, so be sure to allow your new
laminate flooring stock to acclimate to the condi-
tions in your house. Simply keep the planks in
the room where they will be used for a few days
prior to installation.
1 Remove the shoe molding by wedging a pry

bar between the shoe molding and baseboards and
pry outward. Continue along the wall until the
entire shoe is removed. Next, place a scrap board
against the wall and use a pry bar to pull the base-
board away from the wall. Maintain the gap with
wood shims. Number the sections for easy
replacement. Drive protruding nails in floor \-t"
below the surface with a nail set.
-'
3 Working from the left corner of the room to

2 To install the underlayment, start in one cor- right, set wall spacers and dry lay planks (tongue
ner and unroll the underlayment to the opposite side faCing the wall) against the wall. The spacers
wall. Cut the underlayment to fit, using a utility allow for expansion. If you are flOOring a room
knife or scissors. Overlap the second underlay- more than 26 ft. long or wide, you need to buy
ment sheet according to the manufacturer's rec- appropriate-sized expansion joints. Note: Some
ommendations, and secure the pieces in place manufacturers suggest facing the groove side to
with adhesive tape. the wall.

Final uncut plank
ends here
5 Press painter's tape along the cutline on the

4 Set a new plank right side up, on top of the top of the plank to prevent chips when cutting.
Score the line drawn in Step 4 with a utility knife.
previously laid plank, flush with the spacer against
the wall at the end run. Line up a speed square Turn the plank over and extend the pencil line to
with the bottom plank edge and trace a line. the backside.
That's the cutline for the final plank in the row.
6 Clamp the board (face down) and rigid foam

insulation or plywood to a work table. The foam 7 To create a tight fit for the last plank in the
discourages chipping. Clamp a speed square on first row, place a spacer against the wall and wedge
top of the plank, as though you are going to draw one end of a drawbar between it and the last plank.
another line parallel to the cutline- use this to eye Tap the other end of the drawbar with a rubber
your straight cut. Place the drcular saw's blade in mallet or hammer. Protect the laminate surface
front (waste side) of the acrual cutline and cut. with a thin cloth .
FLOORING' In s talling Laminat e Flooring 315

_ _ HOW TO INSTALL LAMINATE FLOORING (CONTINUED)
8 Continue to lay rows of flooring, making 9 To fit the fi nal row, place two planks on top
sure the joints are staggered. Staggering joints pre- of the last course; slide the top plank up against
vents the entire floor from relying on just a few the wall spacer. Use the top plank to draw a cut-
joints, thus preventing the planks from lifting. line lengthwise on the middle plank. Cut the mid-
Staggering also stengthens the floor, because the dle plank to size using the same method as in Step
joints are shorter and evenly distributed. 4 (only now you are "ripcutting" a lengthwise
cut- see page 319 for instructions on ripcuts).
The very last board must be cut lengthw ise and
widthwise to fi t.
New floor Floor in adjacent

room
HERE'S HOW
Transition
o stagger joints, fi rst check the manufactur-

T er's instructions to determine what the mini-
mum distance should be between the stagge red
joints. The range is usually between 8" and 18"
(minimum). The first plank in the second row can
sometimes be the waste piece from the cut you
made at the end of the last run . But if you don't
10 Install transition thresholds at room bor- have a long enough scrap, the first plank in each
ders where the new floor joins another floor cov- row should alternate between being 1/.3 and 2/.3
ering. These thresholds are used to tie together the length of a full plank. This creates a pattern
dissimilar floor coverings, such as laminate floor- that is not only pleasing to the eye, but it
ing and wood or carpet. They may also be neces- ensures a solid installation.
sary to span a distance in height between flooring
in one room and the next.

HOW TO WORK AROUND OBSTACLES
/
Mark indicates
outside edge
of the pipe,
right side
2 Once the plank is snapped into the previous
row, position the plank end against the obstacle.
Make two marks with a pencil, this time on the
end of the plank to indicate where the obstacle
falls along the width of the board.
1 Position a plank end against the spacers on

the wall next to the obstacle. Use a pencil to make
two marks along the length of the plank, indicat-
ing the points where the obstacle begins and ends.
3 Use a speed square to extend the four lines.

4 Install the plank by locking the tongue-and-
The space at which they all intersect is the part of
the plank that needs to be removed to make room groove joints with the preceding board. Fit the
for the obstacle to go through it. Use a drill with a end piece in behind the pipe or obstacle. Apply
Forstner bit, or a hole saw the same diameter as manufacturer-recommended glue to the cut
the space within the intersecting lines, and drill edges, and press the end piece tightly against the
through the plank at the X. You'll be left with a adjacent plank. Wipe away excess glue with a
hole; extend the cut to the edges with a jigsaw. damp cloth.

'-------_ HOW TO GLUE LAMINATE FLOORING
2 Close the gaps between end joints and

lengthwise joints, using a rubber mallet to gently
tap a block (often supplied by the manufacturer)
into the edge or end of the last plank. Use a draw-
1 After dry-fitting each row, completely fill the bar for the last planks butted up to a wall. Wipe
groove of the plank with the manufacturer glue away excess glue in the joints with a damp cloth
(or at least as instructed by the manufacturer). before it dries.
3 Rent 6 to 10 strap
clamps to hold a few
rows of planks together
as adhesive dries (about
an hour). Fit one end of
the strap clamp over
the plank nearest the
wall, and the other end
(the one with the ratch-
et lever) over the last
plank. Use the ratchet
to tighten straps until
joints are snug.

WHAT IF . . . ?
f you need to cut a plank to fit snugly against another plank or a wall with an obstacle in the middle (such as a
I heat vent), measure in to the appropriate cutline to fit the board flush with the adjacent board or wall (on the
other side of the obstacle). Draw a line across the plank in this location. Then measure the obstacle and transfer
those measurements to the plank, using your pencil again. Mark a starter hole on the inside of the lines. Drill
the hole just large enough to fit your jigsaw blade into it. Starting in the drilled hole, cut the plank along the
drawn lines, using a jigsaw. Set the board in place by locking the tongue·and·groove joints with the preceding
board.
HERE'S HOW
Ripcut planks from the back side to avoid

splintering the top surface. For accurate
straight cuts, mark the cut with a chalk line. If Place another piece of flooring next to the
you have drawn a pencil line that is not straight, piece marked for cutting to provide a stable sur·
double check your tracing- it may be that your face for the foot of the saw. Also, clamp a cut·
wall is not perfectly straight, and in this case ting guide to the planks at the correct distance
you'd cut along your hand· drawn pencil line. from the cutting line to ensure a straight cut.

Installing Floor Tile
16
Tiles can be hand-picked to customize your floor. Picking out complemen-

tary colors within a single style is one way to make your floor unique.
Not only is it fun to design your floor with tiles, but the installation requires
only a single weekend.
AS WITH ANY TILE INSTALLATION, RESILIENT TILE REQUIRES CAREFULLY POSITIONED LAYOUT
lines. Before committing to any layout and applying tile, conduct a dry run to identify potential problems.
Keep in mind the difference between reference lines (see opposite page) and layout lines. Reference lines
mark the center of the room and divide it into quadrants. If the tiles don't layout symmetrically along these
lines, you'll need to adjust them slightly, creating layout lines. Once layout lines are established, installing the
tile is a fairly quick process. Be sure to keep joints between the tiles tight and lay the tiles square.
Tiles with an obvious grain pattern can be laid so the grain of each tile is oriented identically throughout
the installation. You can also use the quarter-turn method, in which each tile has its pattern grain running
perpendicular to that of adjacent tiles. Whichever method you choose, be sure to be consistent through-
out the project.

REFERENCE LINES 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
1 Position a reference line (X) by 2 Measure and mark the center-

measuring along opposite sides of point of the chalk line. From this
the room and marking the center of point, use a framing square to estab-
each side. Snap a chalk line between lish a second reference line perpendi-
these marks. cular to the first one. Snap the
second line (Y) across the room.
3 Check the reference lines for 4 Measure the distance between

squareness using the 3-4-5 triangle the marks. If the reference lines are
method. Measure along reference perpendicular, the distance will
line X and make a mark 3 ft. from measure exactly 5 ft. If not, adjust SKILLS YOU NEED
the centerpoint. Measure from the the reference lines until they're • Measuring
centerpoint along reference line Y exactly perpendicular to each other. • Cutting
and make a mark at 4 ft. • Pushing a 75- or 100-pound floor roller
• Using a trowel
• Hammering

UNDERLAYMENT-The intermediate layer between the surface flooring materi-

al and the subfloor.
STICKY-BACK VINYL TILE-Resilient flooring available in 12" or 16" squares.

This project can be completed in a
Each vinyl tile has self-adhesive backing.
weekend.
FLOORING' Installing Floor Tile 321

HOW TO INSTALL DRY-BACKED RESILIENT TILE
1 Snap perpendicular reference lines with a 2 If you shift the tile layout, create a new line
chalk line. Dry-fit tiles along layout line Y so a that is parallel to reference line X and runs through
joint falls along reference line X. If necessary, shift a tile joint near line X. The new line, Xl, is the line
the layout to make the layout symmetrical or to you'll use when installing the tile. Use a different
reduce the number of tiles that need to be cut. colored chalk to distinguish between lines.
4 If you adjusted the layout along Xl, measure

and make a new layout line, YI , that's parallel to
reference line Y and runs through a tile joint. YI
3 Dry-fit tiles along the new line, Xl. If neces- will form the second layout line you'll use during
sary, adjust the layout line as in steps I and 2. installation.
•
6 Spread adhesive over most of the installation

area, covering three quadrants. Allow the adhesive
5 Apply adhesive around the intersection of the to set according to the manufacturer's instructions,
then begin to install the tile at the intersection of
layout lines using a trowel with ){," V-shaped
notches. Hold the trowel at a 45 ° angle and the layout lines. You can kneel on installed tiles to
spread adhesive evenly over the surface. lay additional tiles.
8 To cut tiles to fit along the walls, place the

tile to be cut (A) face up on top of the last full tile
you installed. Position a !Is"-thick spacer against
7 When the first three quadrants are completely the wall, then set a marker tile (B) on top of the
tiled, spread adhesive over the remaining quad- tile to be cut. Trace along the edge of the marker
rant, then finish setting the tile. tile to draw a cutting line.

HOW TO INSTALL DRY-BACKED RESILIENT TILE (CONTINUED)
9 Cut tile to fit using a utility knife and

straightedge. Hold the straightedge securely 10 Install cut tiles next to the walls. If you're
against the curting hne to ensure a straight cut. precutting all tiles before installing them, measure
Option: You can use a ceramic-tile cuner to make the distance between the wall and install tiles at
straight cuts in thick vinyl tiles (see inset). various points in case the distance changes.
TOOL TIP
11 Continue installing tile in the remaining

T
o mark tiles for cutting around outside
corners, make a cardboard template to
quadrants until the room is completely covered.
Check the entire floor. If you fi nd loose areas, match the space, keeping a ").8 " gap along the
walls. After cutting the template, check to make
press down on the tiles to bond them to the
sure it fits . Place the template on a tile and trace
underlayment. Install metal threshold bars at
its outline.
room borders where the new floor joins another
floor covering.

HOW TO INSTALL SELF-ADHESIVE RESILIENT TILE
1 Once your reference lines are established, 2 Begin installing tiles in the interior area of the
peel off the paper backing and install the first tile quadrant. Keep the joints tight between tiles. Use a
in one of the corners formed by the intersecting floor roller to set tile and prevent bubbles.
layout lines. Lay three or more tiles along each
layout line in the quadrant. Rub the entire surface
of each tile to bond the adhesive to the floor
underlayment.
4 Continue installing the tile in the remaining

quadrants until the room is completely covered.
Check the entire floor. If you find loose areas,
3 Finish setting full tiles in the first quadrant, press down on the tiles to bond them to the
then set the full tiles in an adjacent quadrant. Set underlayment. Install metal threshold bars at
the tiles along the layout lines first, then fill in the room border where the new floor joins another
interior tiles. floor covering.

_ _ HOW TO INSTALL A GLASS MOSAIC FLOOR
1 Beginning at the intersection of the horizon-

tal and vertical lines, apply the recommended
adhesive in one quadrant. Spread it outward even-
ly with a notched trowel. Lay down only as much 2 Stabilize a sheet of tile by randomly inserting
adhesive as you can cover in 10 to 15 minutes. plastic spacers into the open joints.
3 Pick up diagonally opposite corners of the

square and move it to the intersection of the hori-
zontal and vertical references lines. Align the sides
with the reference lines and gently press one cor-
ner into place on the adhesive. Slowly lower the
opposite corner, making sure the sides remain
square with the reference lines. Massage the sheet 4 When two or three sheets are in place, lay a
into the adhesive, being careful not to press too scrap of 2 x 4 wrapped in carpet across them and
hard or twist the sheet out of position. Continue tap it with a rubber mallet to set the fabric mesh
setting tile, filling in one square area after another. into the adhesive and force out any trapped air.

5 When you've tiled up close to the wall or
another boundary, lay a full mosaic sheet into
position and mark it for trimming. Use a glass 6 After you've scored the tiles, cut them each
cutter to score along the cut line. individually with a pair of tile nippers.
7 Set tile in the remaining quadrants. Let the

adhesive cure according to the manufacturer's
instructions. Remove spacers with a needlenose 8 Mosaic tile has a much higher ratio of grout
pliers. Mix a batch of grout and fill the joints (see to tile than larger tiles do, so it is especially impor-
page 276). Allow the grout to dry, according to tant to seal the grout with a quality sealer after it
manufacturer's instructions. has cured. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Painting &
Decorating
YOU'VE SEEN THE HOME MAKEOVER SHOWS ON TV; YOU'VE
ADMIRED YOUR FRIENDS' PROJECTS; YOU'VE READ ON-LINE ARTI-
CLES ABOUT HOW EASY THIS ALL IS. AND YET, YOU'RE STILL JUST
A LITTLE UNSURE ABOUT THIS IDEA OF TACKLING A DECORATING
PROJECT.
Relax. You've come to exactly the right place. This book was written
with you in mind- a new homeowner or, perhaps, someone who's
just new to decorating. Even if you are seasoned with decorating expe-
rience, you will find valuable tips and professional procedures to
incorporate into your next project. The information you need is all
right here.
IN THIS CHAPTER:
o Before You Begin o Painting Millwork & Trim

Painting Tools o Painting Wood Cabinets
Decorating Tools
o Painting Concrete Block Wal ls
Prep Materials
Choosing Paint
o Stripping Wallcoverings
o Hanging Pictures & Mirrors o Hanging Wallcoverings
o Replacing Towel Bars
o Hanging Curta in s
o Installing Window Blinds &
Shades
o Anchoring Bookcases
o Draping & Taping
o Painting Wa lls
o Prepa ring Unfinished Wood
for Paint
PAINTING & DECORATING' Introduction 329

Before You Begin:
Painting Tools
Roller tray &

disposable liner
-
I
\' -
f Specialty container
Standard
roller
Paint & primer

Dual-roller I
cover
Detail roller Stir sticks

Specialty
brushes
Lead-test kit
drill
Paintbrushes
Roller frame
extension
These are the tools you'll need for your painting toolbox. All these tools are available at almost
every home improvement center, paint store, and hardware store.

WHEN IT COMES TO PAINTING TOOLS, SOME PEO-
PLE PREFER DISPOSABLE TOOLS WHILE OTHERS
value traditional versions. The differences between the

two are cost and quality.
- PAl NTB RU SHES: All-purpose brushes are made from a

blend of polyester and nylon. Brushes blended with hog
or ox bristles should only be used with oil-based paints.
Your kit should include a 3" straightedged wall brush, 2"
straightedged trim brush, and tapered sash brush. A
good-quality brush has a shaped handle, non-corrosive metal ferrule, and several spacer plugs
between bristles. Split ("flagged" ) and tapered ("chiseled") bristle ends make clean edges.
-ROLLER TRAYS: Sturdy trays are a must. Disposable pan liners minimize cleanup, but they
are not substitutes for roller trays.
-STANDARD ROLLER FRAMES: Choose a well-balanced frame with nylon bearings and a
comfortable handle. Extensions are available for painting ceilings.
-STANDARD ROLLER COVERS: Most jobs can be done with %" synthetic rollers. Special
corner roller covers allow you to paint corners without cutting in the edges. Good-quality
roller covers create an attractive finish without leaving fibers in the paint.
- S P E C I A L CON TAl N E R S: Large and small containers simplifY large projects. For large proj-
ects, some paint manufacturers sell their paint in 5-gallon containers, so you can paint straight
from the container. If the paint you choose doesn't come in a container like this, you may
want to buy one. For cutting-in and touch-ups, small, easy-to-hold containers are a good idea.
- PA I N T- M I X I N G B IT AND DR ILL: Stirring paint is extremely important. The best way to stir
large amounts of paint is with a drill and special paint-mixing bit. These bits are easy to use
and clean up quickly.
-LEAD TEST KIT: If your home was built before 1978, it's critical that you test paint before
cleaning, sanding, or repainting it. Easy-to-use lead test kits are available at home centers,
hardware stores, and paint retailers everywhere. If the test indicates the presence of lead,
consult a lead abatement specialist before starting any project.
Once you get to the chapters, you'll notice there may be a red toolbox in the Materials List.
If you see that, it means you'll need your toolbox with all of the above tools in it for that
particular project. There may be additional tools needed that are specific to the project at
hand, but having this toolbox organized and at-hand will save a lot of time .
PAINTING & DECORATING· Before You Begin 331

Before You Begin:
Decorating Tools
Finish sander
- •
Razor Putty knives

knife •
Hammer
Level
Drywall knife
Nail
set
These are the tools you'll need for your decorating toolbox. All these tools are available at almost
every home improvement center, paint store, and hardware store.

-CARPENTER'S OR LASER LEVEL: A carpenter's level contains two or more bubble gauges
used to check the level of work surfaces. A laser level creates level, square lines on any surface.
- HAM MER: Designed for driving, setting, and pulling nails, hammers are essential. A 16-
ounce, curved claw hammer with a high-carbon steel head and a handle made of hickory,
fiberglass, or solid steel is a practical choice for typical home repairs.
- D R ILL: Variable-speed reversing drills are handy for driving and removing screws, nuts, and
bolts, as well as for drilling holes and stirring paint. For most decorating projects, a medium-
voltage cordless drill is a good choice. Look for features such as a keyless chuck, adjustable
clutch, and electronic level.
- COR D L E S S S C R E W D R I V E R: For small projects, cordless power screwdrivers are a great

alternative to standard screwdrivers. These tools come with a universal ｾＢ＠ drive as well as a
slotted bit and a #2 Phillips bit. Other bits, such as Torx and square drive, are also available.
- pow E R SAN D E R s: Sanders smooth surfaces to be painted or decorated.
- S C R E W DR I V E R s: Standard screwdrivers-both slotted and Phillips-are essential. Choose

quality screwdrivers with hardened-steel blades and easy-to-grip handles. Insulated handles
protect you from electric shock, and oxide-coated tips provide a strong hold on screw heads.
-TAPE MEASURES: A high-quality, retractable steel tape measure will last for decades.
Choose a tape that has a locking mechanism and a belt clip. Make sure the tape you choose
has a standout of at least 7 ft.
- STU D FIN DE R: A stud fmder has an indicator that lights up when it passes over a stud.
- AWL: An awl is a tool that has a metal shaft with a sharpened end. It is used to poke holes
in drywall and other surfaces when drilling a pilot hole isn't necessary.
- N A I L SET: This is a metal shaft with a rounded end that is used to drive finish nails below a
work surface.
-DRYWALL KNIVES ("PUTTY" KNIVES): These knives have thin, somewhat flexible blades
attached to sturdy handles. They are used to spread spackle and drywall compound and can
also be used to scrape away debris before cleaning walls or filling holes.
-RAZOR KNIFE: A razor knife is a sharp, retractable, disposable blade in a sturdy handle.
If you see a yellow toolbox in a materials list, it means that some or all of the above tools are
needed to get that particular job done.
PAINTING & DECORATING' Before You Begin 333

Before You Begin:
Prep Materials
A) HOLE-PATCHING KITS: Sturdy, self-
adhesive mesh and backing materials
used to repair large holes in walls.
B) SELF-ADHESIVE SEAM TAPE:
Used to smooth drywall compound

over joints and cracks.
C) SPACKLE: A quick-drying drywall

compound. Some types of spackle
are pink when wet and turn white as
they dry, which makes it easy to tell
when the patch is ready to be sanded.
D) WOOD FILLER: Compound used

K to fill holes in wood. It can be sanded
and painted or stained.
.-
.-
._._--
.- - A E) SPONGES: Used to smooth damp
.--...
.-.- joint compound, which reduces the
amount of sanding needed later.
If you want a decorating project to turn out well,
you simply have to do the necessary preparation work. F) TRISODIUM PHOSPHATE: Clean-
With the help of the tools and materials available ing agent used for washing walls
today, preparation stages go smoothly and easily. before painting or hanging wallpaper.
G) SAF ETY EQU I PM E NT: Rubber gloves, safety glasses, and dust masks or respirators; these
are necessary when using strong or caustic chemicals.
H) PRE PA RAT ION L I QUID S: A latex-bonding agent makes plaster repairs more durable; liq-
uid deglosser dulls glossy surfaces so paint can adhere properly.
I) W ALL PA PER S T RIP PER: A chemical agent that loosens wallpaper adhesive so it can be
removed easily.
J) PR ES SUR E S PRAYE R: Used to apply wallpaper stripper over large areas.
K) EASY-RELEASE PAINTER'S TAPE: Tape designed for easy and clean removal (does not
leave an adhesive residue).

Before You Begin:
Choosing Paint
Paint prices are often accurate
reflections of quality. As a gener-
al rule, buy the best paint your
budget allows. High-quality
paint is easier to use and looks
better than less expensive paint.
Quality paints often last longer
and require fewer coats, too.
LATEX PAINT: Water-based

paint that's easy to use and
cleans up with soap and water.
Latex paint is suitable for nearly
every application.
ALKYD PAINT: Oil-based paint

Paint comes in various sheens. ranging from flat to high-
that produces a durable finish;
gloss enamel. Gloss enamels dry to a shiny finish and are
cleans up with paint thinner or
best for surfaces that need to be washed often. such as
mineral spirits. Some painters
bathroom or kitchen walls or woodwork in any room. Flat
feel that alkyd paint produces a paints are used for walls and ceilings.
smoother finish, but local regu-
lations restrict its use in some
communities.
P RIM E R: Primer bonds well to all surfaces and provides a durable base that helps keep the
finish coat from cracking or peeling. Always use a good primer to prepare surfaces for painting.
TIN TED P RIM E R: When using deep colors, tinted primer reduces the number of coats of
paint necessary to achieve good coverage.
PAINTING & DECORATING· Before You Begin 335

Hanging
Pictures & Mirrors
1
Hanging pictures and mirrors instantly personalizes a room, and it's easy to do
when you approach it with the right tools and a good attitude. We'll show
you how to position a piece properly and hang it securely-the first time.
IF YOU'VE EVER MADE SIX HOLES IN A WALL TO HANG ONE PICTURE, YOU KNOW
HOW FRUSTRATING THE PROCESS CAN BE. Most of us have done it, and none of us
want to repeat the experience. Great news! By following the steps outlined here and using the
right hardware, you can hang a picture without making a single unnecessary hole.
Before getting out your tools, study the size and shape of the room. Designers and decora-
tors often suggest placing the center of a picture or mirror at eye level- 57 to 60 inches above
the floor- but that's a guideline, not a hard and fast rule. If you're placing a mirror behind a
sideboard or a picture over a mantle, let the style of the room and a sense of balance guide
its placement.
HOW TO HANG TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
PICTURES & MIRRORS
Clear silicone
caulk Low-tack
painter's tape
wood screws
.--.-.
.:.. o-ring: (2)
Self-adhesive
felt pads (4)
Picture-hanging
wire
anchors·
'* Match to weight of piece to be hung.
SKILLS YOU NEED

Frames and mirrors remain level and secure when they' re supported by wall
studs and sturdy hardware. Before you can choose hardware, find out what the • Measuring accurately
piece weighs. While shopping, check the labels on the hardware you're consider- • Light carpentry tool skills
ing to make sure it will support the weight of the piece you're going to hang.
STUD-The lumber used to frame a wall . Typically 2 x 4s spaced 16" apart. This project takes less than 30 minutes.
STUD FINDER-A handheld device used to locate studs behind drywall and wall
coverings.
PAINTING & DECORATING· Hanging Pictures & Mirrors 337

HOW TO HANG A ｐｉｃｔｕｒｅｾ＠
.
•
•
1 On each side of the frame, mark 8" down 2 Set the D-rings aside, and then use an awl to
from the top. Purchase D-rings or picrure hooks punch a hole at each mark on the frame.
rated to support the approximate weight of the Reposition the first D-ring and drive a screw into
picrure or mirror (package labels on the hardware the mark, securely attaching the D-ring to the
give the suggested weight ranges). frame. Repeat on the other side.
3 Attach a self-adhesive felt pad at each corner 4 In the area where you want to hang the
of the frame. frame, place a piece of tape at the appropriate
height, measured from the floor (usually 57 to 60",
depending on the room's dimensions). Following
manufacrurer's directions, use a srud finder to
locate the studs and mark the tape to indicate their
positions.

x
8"
5 Measure the w idth of the frame and divide 6 Measure down 8" from the frame side marks
that number by 2-this is the center of your frame. for the O-ring placement. If studs are not avail-
On the tape, mark the proposed center of the able, drive self-tapping hollow wall anchors into
frame, and then mark the edge of the frame the the holes (as shown), and then drill a screw into
calculated distance on each side. If possible, align each anchor. If studs are available, drill wood
the frame so that the three points are near your screws direcdy into the studs.
stud marks.
QUICK FIX
utting a felt pad at each corner of a frame

P helps it hang straight and keeps it from
marking the walls. If you don't have any on
hand, don't despair: Silicone caulk will do the
trick quite nicely. Put a dot of caulk (about the
7 Slip the O-rings or picture hooks over the diameter of a pencil eraser) on each corner. As
screws on the wall. Your picture should now be soon as the caulk dries, you're good to go.
straight and secure with nary an extra hole to
repair.
PAI N TING & DECORATING' H a ng i ng P ic tur es & Mirror s 339
Replacing Towel Bars
2 ｾｾＭ
New accessories update a bathroom in a flash, without much trouble or

expense. The important thing is to make sure the hanging hardware is sup-
ported by studs or hollow wall anchors rated for the bar's weight.
EVEN WHEN IT COMES TO TOWEL BARS AND OTHER BATHROOM ACCESSORIES,
STYLES CHANGE WITH THE TIMES. No matter how much we love them now, in a decade
or so, today's hot styles will be hopelessly out of date. And so it goes.
If the towel bars in your bathroom are damaged, out of date, or just plain ugly, it's time to
replace them. There are a few things to think about before you go shopping. First, take a look
at the finish on the faucets in the room. Generally, it's best to choose accessories that match
or coordinate with the faucets. Next, measure the mounting plates on the existing accessories.
It's easier to produce professional-looking results if the plates on the new accessories are the
same size or larger than the existing ones.
Although we're showing a towel bar in this project, most bathroom accessories are installed
in a similar fashion. Once you understand the process, you'll be ready to add any accessory
you want or need.
HOW TO REPLACE A TOWEL BAR TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Wall plate
Wood
Rod holder
Wall plates
a/"
-
Wood screws
Towel
rod
Self-tapping
hollow wall anchors
wall anchor
Setscrew
•
SKILLS YOU NEED
• Measuring accurately
Towel bars and other bathroom accessories are supported by mounting plates • Light carpentry tool skills
attached to walls. The mounting plate must be securely supported by wall studs
or hollow wall anchors.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL

This project takes less than 30 minutes.
SETSCREW-A small screw that holds a part in place. On towel bars, they're typi-
cally found on the bottom, out of sight as much as possible.
MOUNTING PLATE-The hardware that supports the weight of the towel bar or
accessory.
SPACKLE-A filler for cracks and holes in walls. Available premixed in small con-
tainers for routine repairs.
PAINTING & DECORATING· Replacing Towel Bars 341

HOW TO INSTAll A NEW rOWEL BAR
1 Position the towel bar and make a mark along 2 Center the mounting plate between the
the outside of the mounting trim on each side. marks made in step 1, and then make marks for
(Try to avoid positioning the bar so the new holes the screw locations. Repeat this process on the
will fall directly over the old ones.) Repeat for the other side. Check the marks with a level, and
other side. adjust if necessary Use a stud finder to check if
the marks are located over studs.
TOOL TIP
f the old plates are secure, leave them in place.

ITo ensure the new towel bar fits your existing
plates, measure the mounting plates remaining
on the wall .
3 Drill pilot holes, and then hold the fIrst
mounting plate in place and drive screws to attach
it to the wall. Repeat on the other side.

Opt ion: If studs w ill not support the 4 Settle the towel bar onto the mounting plates.
screws, use an awl to make a small hole at each T ighten the setscrews that hold the bar to the
m ark, and then drive a self-tapping hollow wall m ounting plates. (Again, these setscrews typically
anchor into the wall. are found on the bottom of the mounting trim.)
WHAT IF ... ?
hat if I want to install a towel

W bar on a ceramic tile wall?
Follow the directions as given, but use

a ceramic tile bit with a carbide tip to
drill the pilot holes. Before beginning
to drill, scratch a dimple into the tile
with an awl or a sharp nail. (Starting
beyond the tile's glaze helps keep the
bit from dancing around on the tile.)
PAINTING & DECORATING' Repl a cing Towel Bars 343

Hanging Curtains
3
-I
\ Ir
Wood screw
- Wall anchor
Sheer rod Wood screw
Mounting plate
Curtains can dress a room in elegance, lighten the room's mood, or do lit-
tle more than filter incoming light-it's completely up to you. Choosing
them may take some time, but hanging them can be a breeze.
PUTTING UP CURTAINS IS ONE OF THOSE PROJECTS THAT MANY HOMEOWNERS
DREAD: IT INVOLVES CREATING HOLES IN THE WALLS, AND MISTAKES OR MIS-
CALCU LATION S S HOW 1M MEDIATE LY. Take a deep breath. There's no reason to let hang-
ing curtains become an exercise in frustration. With the information we're about to give you
and some advance planning, you'll be able to get it right the first time, every time. Honestly.
There are several decisions to be made long before the measuring and drilling starts, and each
is important to the success of the project. First, how much of the window will the curtains
cover? Do they need to open and close? And what kind of hanging hardware do you like?

HOW TO HANG CURTAINS TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
1 Measure the height and width of the window. Make a quick diagram of the
window and note the measurements you took. Before purchasing curtains or hard-
ware, decide where you want the curtains to start and stop, and indicate those
measurements on your diagram. Attach the brackets for the sheer rod. Place the
sheer rod and check for level. Adjust if necessary.
Curtain rod
Sheer rod I
Self-tapping hollow
I wall anchors
I "
•
Decorative curtain
Sheer rod
hardware
rod hardware
2 Attach the brackets for the 3 Place the curtain over the sheer
decorative curtain rod a few inches rod, and then place the rod for the SKILLS YOU NEED
outside and above the sheer brackets. sheer into the mounting plate. Repeat
Use wall anchors if the bracket is not for the decorative curtains and rod. • Measuring accurately
located over a stud. • Light carpentry tool skills
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
This project takes 60 to 90 minutes.
PAINTING & DECORATING· Hanging Curtains 345

Installing
Window Blinds & Shades
4
Horizontal blinds and shades improve energy efficiency and light control in
an easy-to-install, reasonably priced package. Many retailers will cut them
to fit while you wait-all you have to do is provide accurate measurements.
HORIZONTAL BLINDS AND SHADES CAN BE OPENED OR CLOSED COMPLETELY
WITH A PUSH OF A BUTTON OR A TUG ON A CORD. Plus, just a twist of a rod tilts
blinds to filter light or direct light as needed. And then there are hybrid products- sheer
shades sandwiched around slats that can be louvered like blinds. With the many products
available today, it's easy to find one that suits your needs as well as your room's needs.
With blinds and shades, as with most window treatments, the key to easy installation is care-
ful measurement and good preparation. It's important to decide exactly what you want the
blinds to accomplish before shopping-even before measuring. A quick evaluation of the
room and window in question is the basis for all the decisions you'll have to make.
BLINDS & SHADES 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Shades or blinds
Tape measure
Slat
Drill/driver
Stud finder
Wall anchors
I
-- Hanger brackets
Typical roll·up window shades are mounted to the inside edges of the jamb, as
shown above. Many styles of blinds are mounted to the wall above the window
(called "outside mount"). SKILLS YOU NEED
• Light carpentry tool skills

WINDOW FRAME-The enclosure in which a window sash is mounted.
WINDOW JAMB-The vertical pieces that form the sides of a window.

DIFFICULTY LEVEL
HEAD RAIL-The top part of the blinds where the mechanisms are housed.
VALANCE-A decorative piece that covers the top of a window treatment. On This project takes 30 to 60 minutes.
blinds, the valance covers the head rail and brackets.
HOLD-DOWN CLlP-A small piece of hardware that holds the lower edge of a
blind or shade in place. Keeps blinds from flapping against the frame when the
window is open.
PAINTING & DECORATING' Installing Window Blinds & Shades 347

HOW TO HANG ROLL-UP SI:IADES
--
1 At the top, bottom, and middle of the win- 2 Measure the height of the window frame
dow frame, measure the opening between the side (between the top and bottom), at each side, and in
jambs. Make a quick diagram of the window and the middle. Add the largest of these measurements
note the smallest of the three measurements. to your diagram. With your diagram in hand, pur-
chase blinds or shades to fit the window. If possi-
ble, have the retailer cut the blinds or shades to
your specifications. If that's not possible, buy the
closest size (a bit smaller) to the window opening.
3 To cut standard roll-up shades to length,

remove the slat from the bottom edge and cut 4 Remove the excess cardboard, and then
through the hem with scissors. Carefully tear the remove the roller end from the tube. Cut the tube
material until you reach the roller tube. Follow the to length with a hacksaw (metal) or fine tooth
manufacturer's specific instructions. wood saw (cardboard).

5 Roll the shade material back up, and then 6 Cut the slat (that fits into hems) to length,
push the roller end inward and replace the end cap. according to manufacturer's instructions. For basic
roller shades, you simply snap the slat apart at the
desired location.
7 Position the first bracket flush with the upper

front corner of the window frame, and mark its
screw holes. Drill a pilot hole at each mark, hold
the bracket in place, and then drive in the screws 8 Slide the pin end of the head rail into the
to secure it. Repeat for the other bracket, making bracket on one end, and then slide the slatted end
sure the two brackets are level. into the other bracket.
PAINTING & DECORATING' Installing Window Blinds & Shades 349

VARIATION: OUTSIDE MOUNT
To mount blinds outside the window frame, Position the first bracket as indicated by the
measure the width from the outside edges of the diagram you made in step 1, and mark its screw
window frame and the height from 2" to 3" above to holes. Use a stud finder to locate nearby studs. If a
2" to 3" below the frame. If the window doesn't stud is in the bracket area, drill pilot holes at the
have a frame, measure the opening and add a few marks and attach the bracket to the wall. If no stud
inches on each side. Make a diagram of the measure- is available, use an awl to make a small hole at each
ments and refer to it when purchasing blinds to fit. mark, and then drive a self-tapping hollow wall
anchor into each. Finally, drive a screw into each
anchor.
Shoot a line with a laser level or use a standard Lift the blinds into place and install them in the
level to draw a level line across the wall from the top brackets on the wall. Follow the manufacturer's
edge of the bracket to the planned position for the instructions to ensure a secure fit.
second bracket. Position the second bracket and fas-
ten it to the wall as described in step 2.

HERE'S HOW: BUYING TIPS
HORIZONTAL BLINDS are available in a variety of comb construction and opaque materials provide
materials and slat sizes. Mini-blinds nf.1" to %" excellent insulation and privacy.
slats) work well for small or shallow windows.
WINDOW SHADINGS, a hybrid of blinds and cellu-
Venetian blinds (approximately 2" slats) minimize
lar shades, consist of sheer shades sandwiched
the space the blinds take when closed.
around opaque blinds that can be tilted to
CELLULAR SHADES are energy efficient, attractive, control light. They give you energy efficiency
and blend well into most rooms. Their honey- and privacy.
Metal, vinyl, and aluminum Wood blinds (shown), bamboo, Honeycomb (cellular) shades
(shown) blinds offer unique colors and natural materials have a come in a variety of colors and
and textures. casual, green feel. transparencies.
Mini-blinds have slats that range Venetian blinds have larger slats, There are several varieties of
from V2 to shll.
11
usually 2" or more. blinds/cellular shades. This com-
bination allows for the perfect
amount of light at any given time.
PAINTING & DECORATING· Installing Window Blinds & Shades 351

Anchoring Bookcases
5
Anchoring bookcases to a wall keeps them securely in place, no matter

how they're loaded or used.
FREESTANDING BOOKCASES ARE TOP·HEAVY, ESPECIALLY WHEN FULLY LOADED
WITH BOOKS AND OTHER OBJECTS. This can be dangerous, especially in homes with
children. Anchoring bookcases eliminates the possibility of one falling over, which is espe-
cially valuable if you live in an earthquake-prone area.
Anchoring a bookcase is very easy to do, as long as you're comfortable using a circular saw.
Don't worry! We'll walk you through the steps of using this tool as well.
FRENCH CLEAT 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Bookcase or cabinet
Stud Wall covering
Bevel-rip 1 x 4 @ 45°
to make cleats
Self.tapping hollow wall anchors
SKILLS YOU NEED

A cleat is a simple device-really nothing more than a 1 x 4 or 1 x 6 rip-cut at a
45° bevel. One half of the cleat is attached to the bookcase with the angled
• Light carpentry tool skills
edge down and the other is attached to the wall with the angled edge up. When
the bookcase is in place, the cleat on the back of the bookcase is supported by
the one attached to the wall. Studs or sturdy wall anchors must support the
screws holding the cleat to the wall.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
This project takes 60 minutes.

FRENCH CLEAT-A piece of wood that's bevel-ripped and used to attach an item
(such as a cabinet or bookcase) to a wall.
PA I NTING & DECORATING· Anchoring Bookcases 353

HOW TO ANCHOR A BOOKCASE
f r
, I
1 Cut a piece of 1 x 4 or 1 x 6 that is 8" less th an 2 Set th e bevel on a circular saw to 45 ° and cut
the width of the bookcase. Mark a rip-cu tting line along th e marked line, rip-cut using a straitedge
that's offset about y," from the middle. guide. Or, use a tablesaw if you have access to one.
TOOL TIP
he angle of the blade on a circular saw can

T be set for beveled cuts. Check the owner's
manual for specific directions, but in general
you push or unscrew a safety release, set the
angle according to a marked gauge, then reset
the safety.

3 Center one cleat so the square edge is flush 4 Measure the height of the bookcase, and draw
with the top and bottom of the bookcase. Use or shoot a level line onto the wall in the area where
wood screws to attach it to the bookcase, with the the bookcase will be anchored, flush with the top
angled points facing down. Be sure to screw into and as wide as the bookcase. Using a stud fmder,
the bookcase frame, not just the backing material. locate and mark the studs above the line. If you are
working near the ceiling, allow enough space for
the top cleat to clear the bottom cleat.
5 Center the top of the wall cleat against the line

marked on the wall, with the angled point facing 6 Lift the bookcase and settle the bookcase cleat
up. Attach the cleat to the wall by driving ＲｾＢ＠ dry- onto the wall cleat. Adjust the bookcase until it's
wall screws through it and into the studs as marked. secure against the wall.
PAINTING & DECORATING PROJECTS' Anchoring Bookcases 355

Draping & Taping
6
A little time spent applying tape and laying out plastic sheeting and drop
cloths saves hours of cleanup at the end of a project.
NO MATTER HOW CAREFUL YOU ARE, PAINTING PROJECTS CAN GET MESSY.
Dry paint- even latex paint- is virtually impossible to remove from most fabrics and not
much fun to remove from any other surface. Careful draping and taping saves your precious
belongings and reduces the amount of cleanup necessary when the project is complete.
DRAPING & TAPING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Drop cloths
｛ｾ＠
II ,-'
I!I i -I
- Plastic sheeting
Iii 1
ｾｌ＠ - -
I I Easy-release painter's tape
Screwdrivers
Painting projects go quickly and smoothly when the project area has been pre-
pared and surfaces not to be painted have been draped and taped off to protect
them from splatters and other mistakes. Tape off woodwork with easy-release
SKILLS YOU NEED
painter's tape, cover floors with drop cloths, and cover walls that will not be
painted with plastic sheeting. • Working on a ladder
• Taping with accuracy
PLATE COVER-A decorative piece that covers the opening for a light fixture. DIFFICULTY LEVEL
EASY-RELEASE PAINTER'S TAPE-A type of low-tack tape designed to be easy to

This project takes 1 to 2 hours.
remove without leaving adhesive residue.
PAINTING & DECORATING· Draping & Taping 357

HOW TO DRAPE & TAPE
BEFORE PAINTING A ｃｅｉｌｾｇ＠
1 In rooms with hanging light fixtures, shut off 2 Remove as many objects as possible from the
the power to the circuit, lower the plate cover, and room, then cover everything else with plastic.
pull a trash bag up from the bottom of the fIxture. Cover the remaining area of the floor with canvas
Tie a knot at the top, neatly covering the entire drop cloths.
piece. In bathrooms, place a lawn-sized trash bag
over the toilet and tape it in place.
3 Press the top half of 2" masking tape along 4 Slide sheet plastic under the masking tape,
the joint between the ceiling and the wall. Leave and press the tape down just enough to hold it in
the bottom half of the tape loose. place. Make sure the plastic is long enough to pro-
tect the baseboards as well as the walls.

HOW TO TAPE
BEFORE PAINTING WALLS lR MILLWOR
1 Shut off the electricity to the circuits in the 2 Align painter's tape with the outside edge of
room. Remove the covers from receptacles and the window molding; press in place. Run the tip of
switches as well as heating and air-conditioning a putty knife along the edge of the tape to seal it
duct covers. Tape over gaps between the boxes and so paint can't seep under the edges.
the switch or receptacle. Restore power.
3 Align wide painter's tape with the top edge of

the baseboard. Run the tip of a putty knife along 4 Before painting trim and millwork, tape off
the inside edge to seal it, but leave the tape parallel edges of the walls. Line up the tape with the edge
to the floor to shield the rest of the baseboard. of the millwork and press it into place.
PAINTING & DECORATING· Draping & Taping 359

Painting Walls
7
Painting a wall is a simple matter of distributing paint evenly. The simple

techniques described here will help you do that with ease.
PREPARING TO PAINT CAN BE TEDIOUS. Actually painting is fun: It goes fairly quickly
and progress is immediately obvious.
It's much easier to see missed areas in natural light, so try to complete the project in daylight.
Use high-quality paint and tools, and work with full brushes and rollers to keep lap marks to
amlrumum.
When painting bare drywall or plaster, apply a coat of primer to the entire project area and
let it dry before applying the paint. When applying dark or deep colors (especially reds), have
the primer tinted to match the paint; tinted primer reduces the number of paint coats
required for full coverage.
Roll one 2 x 4-fi:. section at a time, cutting in the edges and corners before rolling the main
area. Roll the area while the areas that have been cut in are still wet, and start the next section
while the edges of the flrst are still wet. This technique, called "painting to a wet edge ," keeps
lap marks from showing on the finished wall.
WALL PAINTING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Paint surfaces in small sections, working from dry surfaces back into wet paint to
avoid roller marks. 1. With loaded roller, make a diagonal sweep (1) about 4' long
on the surface. On walls, roll upward on the first stroke to avoid spilling paint. Use
slow roller strokes to avoid splattering. 2. Draw the roller straight down (2) from
SKILLS YOU NEED
the top of the diagonal sweep. Shift the roller to the beginning of the diagonal
and roll up (3) to complete the unloading of the roller. 3. Distribute paint over the
• loading a roller
rest of the section with horizontal back-and-forth strokes. 4 . Smooth the area by
• Cutting in edges and corners
lightly drawing the roller vertically from the top to the bottom of the painted area.
• Rolling paint smoothly
Lift the roller and return it to the top of the area after each stroke.
CUT IN-To brush paint onto the edges of an area to be painted. This project takes 3 to 4 hours, depending
WET EDGE-Fresh paint. Rolling paint onto the main areas of the wall or ceiling on the size of the area being covered.
while the paint is still wet in the areas that have been "cut in" prevents lines or
shadows between those areas after the paint has dried .
PAINTING & DECORATING' Pa i nting Walls 361

HOW TO PAINT A ｗａｌｾＢＧＪＭ
1 Stir the paint, using a variable-speed drill and 2 Cut in the edges of a 2 x 4-ft. section of the
paint-mixing bit. Set the drill on a low speed and first wall, using the narrow edge of a paintbrush.
keep the head of the bit in the paint until it com - Press down just enough to flex the brisd es. Use
pletely stops turning. Paint separates quickly, so long, slow strokes, and paint fro m dry areas back
stir it thoroughly from time to time. into wet paint.
HERE'S HOW
ere's how to avoid having the paint look

H different from one wall to the next. Paint-
3 Cut in any corners in the section, using the

especially custom-mixed paint-can vary a tiny
bit from one can to another. If your project is
wide edge of the paintbrush or use a specialty cor- large, mix the cans together in a large pail and
ner roller. stir it thoroughly. This is known as boxing.

4 Load the roller with paint. With the loaded 5 Draw the roller straight down from the top of
roller, make a diagonal sweep about 4 ft. long on the diagonal sweep. Shift the roller to the begin-
the wall. Roll upward on the first stroke to avoid ning of the diagonal stroke and roll upward to
spilling paint. Roll slowly to avoid splattering. complete the unloading of the roller.
6 Roll back and forth across the section to

smooth the area. Lightly draw the roller down the
section ftom top to bottom. Lift the roller and 7 Cut in and roll the section directly under the
start again at the top after each stroke. Finally, first one. Continue with adjacent areas, cutting in
slide the roller cover slightly off of the roller frame and rolling the top sections before the bottom sec-
and roll the cut-in areas to minimize brush marks. tions. Roll all finish strokes toward the floor.
PAINTING & DECORATING' Painting Walls 363

Preparing Unfinished
Wood for Paint
8
Raw wood needs to be carefully prepared before being painted.
PREPARING RAW WOOD FOR PAINT INVOLVES FILLING NAIL HOLES, SANDING
THE SURFACE, AND APPLYING A COAT OF PRIMER. While none of this is difficult, it
can be time consuming, so it's important to plan plenty of time for this project. A small putty
knife works well for filling nail holes, but sometimes your index finger is the perfect tool.
RAW WOOD SANDING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Tack cloth Paintbrush
SKILLS YOU NEED
• Sanding
• Light carpentry skills
New woodwork contains nail holes that must be filled with wood filler. The sur-
face must then be sanded and the sanding dust removed. Finally, the woodwork
must be sealed with a coat of primer.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
This project takes 2 to 4 hours,

TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW depending on the amount of
woodwork you need to finish.
COUNTERSINK-To drive the head of a nail below the surface of the surrounding
wood.
NAIL SET-A tool used to set nails below the surface.
PAINTING & DECORATING' Preparing Unfinished Wood for Paint 365

HOW TO PREPARE WOOD EOR PAINT
1 Check the woodwork to identify any nail or 2 Countersink nailheads by placing the end of a
screw heads that have not been countersunk below nail set on the head of the nail and striking the top
the wood surface. of the nail set with a hammer. Continue until the
head of the nail is 111 6" below the wood's surface.
3 Apply wood filler to any nail holes, dents, or

damaged areas. In detailed or carved areas, make
sure the filler does not fill in the details or carv- 4 Sand the surface of the woodwork. Start with
ings. If necessary, remove filler with a small screw- a fine -grit sponge and progress to an extra-fine grit
driver or awl. sponge, sanding with the grain of the wood.

5 Tape off the woodwork (see page 370). 6 Apply a coat of primer, using a paintbrush (a
21," sash brush works well). Let the primer dry,
according to the manufacturer's directions.
SAFETY TIP
f your home was built before 1978 and you

I will be sanding painted wood, test the painted
wood for lead before taking any further action .
You can purchase a lead-testing kit for this job. If
the test indicates the presence of lead, collect a
sample and consult a lead-abatement specialist. 7 Lightly sand the primed woodwork and wipe
the surface with a tack cloth.
PAINTING & DE C ORATI N G ' Pr e p ari ng U nf i n is h e d W o od f o r Pa int 367

Painting Millwork & Trim
9
Windows, doors, and trim are on the frontline of the daily bump and grind.
A new coat of paint makes them look more attractive and last longer.
WHEN PAINTING AN ENTIRE ROOM, PAINT THE TRIM FIRST, THEN THE WALLS.
When painting trim, start at the inside edges and work your way out toward the walls. On
windows, that means working from the sashes toward the case molding. On doors, it means
working from the main surface of the door out to the case molding. On baseboards, it's best
to cut in the top edge and work down toward the floor.
MILLWORK PAINTING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Paint
Primer
Easy-release
• painter's tape
Nails
Tack cloth
To achieve a smooth, even finish on millwork, nail holes and dents are filled with
latex wood filler; the surface is sanded, primed, and sanded again. Finally, one or
two coats of paint are applied.
driver brush Wide taping knife
APRON-A vertical board at the bottom of a double-hung window.
BASEBOARDS-The wood that covers the joint between a wall and the floor. SKILLS YOU NEED
CASEMENT WINDOW-A window with vertical sashes that open out from the
• Sanding
frame on hinge-like mechanisms. Operated by means of a crank located on the
lower sash. • Painting
CASE MOLDING-The trim that surrounds a window sash or door, covering the
joint between the window sashes and the walls.
DOUBLE-HUNG WINDOW-A window that has two sashes that move up and
down, one behind the other, along tracks in the opening. DIFFICULTY LEVEL
MILLWORK-A generic term for door and window trim as well as baseboards
and other trim. This project takes approximately 2 hours,
depending on the amount of millwork
RAILS-The horizontal framework of a door.
you are working on .
STILES-The vertical framework of a door.
WINDOWSILL-The horizontal board at the bottom of a window.
PAINTING & DECORATING' Painting Millwork & Trim 369

HOW TO PAINT WINDOW MJLLWORK
1 Prepare window to be painted. Remove hard- 2 Apply tape or corner masks to glass and put
ware where possible and use painter's tape to mask tape around outside edges of case molding.
the rest.
4 To paint sashes that have been removed, drill

3 Remove double-hung window sashes from holes and drive 3" nails into the legs of a wooden
their frames when possible. To release a spring- stepladder. Set the window on the nails as though
mounted, double-hung window sash, press against on an easel. Windows can also be placed flat on a
the frame and pull the sash toward you. bench or sawhorses.

5 Using a tapered sash brush, begin by painting 6 Paint the flat portions of the sash. Use slow
the wood next to the glass. Use the narrow edge brush strokes and smooth the paint carefully. Do
of the brush, and overlap the paint onto the tape not paint the sides or bottom of the window sash.
on the glass.
8 Sand hghtly and apply a second coat of paint,

7 Paint the case moldings, sill, and apron. using the same method as described above. When
Again, paint slowly and evenly. Let the paint dry the second coat is dry, remove the tape and replace
completely. the sashes.
PAINTING & DECORATING· Painting Millwork & Trim 371

HOW TO PAINT A CASEMENT ｗｉｎｄｏＭｳｾ＠
2 First paint the wood next to the glass, then

the flat portions of the sash, followed by the case
moldings and sills. Move the sash in and out to
comfortably reach all areas. Do not paint sides,
1 Apply tape and masks as described on page 370. top, or bottom of the sash.
HOW TO PAINT BASEBOARDS AND TRIM
1 Prepare baseboards for painting. Starting at

the top edge of the baseboard and working toward
the floor, apply a light coat of paint. Hold a dry-
wall knife or plastic shielding tool beneath the 2 Paint deeply patterned surfaces with a stiff-
baseboard as you paint; wipe the tool each time it bristled brush, such as a stenciling brush. Use small
is moved. circular strokes to penetrate recesses.

HOW TO A PAINT DOOR
1 Remove the door by driving out the lower 2 Place the door flat on a pair of sawhorses. On
hinge pin, using a screwdriver and hammer. paneled doors, use a paintbrush to paint in the fol-
Next, have a helper hold the door in place while lowing order: 1) recessed panels, 2) horizontal rails,
you drive out the middle and then the upper and 3) vertical stiles. Let the paint dry thoroughly
hinge pins. If a second coat is required, sand the door lightly
and wipe it with a tack cloth before applying it.
f the screw holes in the wall no longer
3 Seal the unpainted edges of the door with

I support the screws firmly, fill them with latex
wood patch and drill pilot holes before hanging
clear wood sealer. Allow the sealer and paint to
the door.
completely dry. Rehang the door in the same loca-
tion, using the old screw locations as well.
PAINTING & DECORATING· Painting Millwork & Trim 373

Painting Wood Cabinets
10
Painting wood cabinets is an inexpensive way to give a kitchen a face-lift.
PAINT IS A GOOD FINISH FOR CABINETS OF ALL SORTS: IT'S ATTRACTIVE, EASY
TO CLEAN, AND (WHEN HEAVY-DUTY ENAMEL IS USED) DURABLE. Although paint-

ing cabinets is not difficult, it is time consuming: Most require two coats of paint, all surfaces
have to be sanded lightly between coats, and both sides of the doors need to be painted.

HOW TO PAINT WOOD CABINETS TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
2 Wash the cabinets with a mild

1 Empty the cabinets, and then detergent solution. Rinse with clean
remove the shelf pins and shelves. For water and a sponge. Fill scratches, dents,
stubborn shelf pins, use a pliers to pull or cracks with latex wood filler, using a 150-grit
them out. Unfasten the hinge screws putty knife. Let the wood filler dry com- ---;,-.
Paintbrushes Putty sandpaper
and all hardware, then remove the pletely. Sand all surfaces with an orbital knife
cabinet doors from the frames. sander and 150-grit sandpaper. Cheesecloth
Detail sander
Tack cloth
SKILLS YOU NEED
• Sanding
• Painting smoothly
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
4 Using a trim brush, paint the This project takes about 2 hours
3 Brush paint onto the interior of inside of each door. Once dry, paint per foot of cabinets
the cabinet frames, starting with the the other side using a tapered sash
back wall, then the top, sides, and bot- brush. Let the drawers dry for several
tom. Roll paint the outside surfaces, days, then replace the hardware and
working from top to bottom. rehang the doors.
PAINTING & DECORATING' Painting Wood Cabinets 375

Painting Concrete
Block Walls
Paint dresses up concrete block walls, and some products also help the
blocks resist water infiltration.
UNPAINTED CONCRETE BLOCKS ARE DULL AND INSTITUTIONAL-LOOKING .
They're also slightly porous, so in situations where hydrostatic pressure is present, water can
seep through them. Paint provides a long-lasting, durable surface that improves the appear-
ance of blocks as well as increases their water resistance.
Concrete blocks must be cured for at least 30 days before being painted. Before they can be
patched and painted, they must also be free of mildew, dust and dirt, and efflorescence. The
paint fills the pores of the blocks and helps them become more water resistant.
The products used to prepare concrete blocks for paint emit irritating fumes. Provide ade-
quate ventilation or wear a respirator when working with them.
CONCRETE BLOCK PAINTING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
, '. ,
, , -, , ｾ＠
, ....
)'-- , J -,
,,. ,
,/
,,
<..
ｾ＠ Concrete
,, \
.. '. , \ .... cleaner and
Concrete and
Rubber
nt1l.';9n1"" paint
gloves L7JII1'"
Etch... '
Ｍｾ＠
｡ｮ､ｾ＠
re 8!IP
Sponge
Hand
vacuum
... Roller handle
Paintbrush
Tape
Variable·speed drill
Wire
brush
Safety
glasses -
Masonry
chisel
Putty
knife
SKILLS YOU NEED
• General cleaning skills

Paint concrete walls in sections for a professional finish. First cut in corners and
• Working with safety equipment
paint the perimeter with a paintbrush. Then paint the interior in 2-ft. sections, as
• Painting
shown above. Be sure to patch holes with hydraulic cement and allow to dry
before painting.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
This project takes 4 to 6 hours,
EFFLORESCENCE-A white, crystalline mineral deposit sometimes found on not including curing times.
masonry surfaces.
ETCHER-A product used to "etch" or make tiny grooves in the surface of the
concrete blocks.
PAINTING & DECORATING' Painting Concrete Block Walls 377

HOW TO PREPARE CONCREIE BLOCK FOR PAINT
1 Press a piece of masking tape onto the blocks 2 Apply hydraulic cement in layers no more
in several places. Pull the tape away: If the tape than \-2" thick, until the patch is slightly higher
doesn't pull concrete away from the surface, it can than the surrounding area. Feather the patch until
be painted. If loose concrete comes away with the the edges are even with the surface. Let the patch
tape, all loose bits need to be scraped away with a dry, according to manufacturer's directions.
wire brush.
3 Evaluate the blocks, looking for holes and 4 Clean the concrete blocks with a cleaner and
cracks. If you find any, use a masonry chisel or a degreaser (or etcher). Thoroughly rinse the blocks
bottle opener and a wire brush to remove any with water and then let them dry. Be sure to wear
debris or dirt. Clean all dust and debris from the safety glasses and heavy-duty rubber gloves. Check
surface with a hand vacuum . the venrilation in the area, and put on a respirator
if necessary.
HOW TO PAINT A CONCREI E BLOCK WALL
, . . ..'J.
. .. . ｾ＠ -'ｾ＠
(
ｾＮ＠ . ..
. .-,
'
, , ....
\', ;"
.,
,\
: .. " .
... , • • • • •
ｾＢ＠
J
1 Stir the paint, using a variable-speed drill and a paint-mixing bit. If th e project requires more than one
can of paint, mix the cans together in a large bu cket before stirring. Use a paintbrush to cut in the edges of a
2 x 4-ft. section, starting at the top.
2 W hile the cut-in edges are still wet, roll paint A fter painting the enti re wall, apply a second
coat of paint to cover the entire are a and
onto the first section. Work the paint into the sur- fill any voids left after t he first coat. Let the
face, making certain paint fills any pores or voids. paint dry and reevaluate the blocks. If water
Repeat with the section immediately beneath the has been a problem in the past, check for leaks.
first , and then continue to the next section (start- If leaks a re still p resent, apply more paint in
ing at the top once again). Let the paint dry these areas.
according to manufacturer's instructions.
PAI N TING & DECORATING' Paint ing Con c r e t e Block W a ll s 379

Stripping Wallcoverings
12
,,
ｾ＠ .
,
Stripping wallcoverings can be quite tedious, depending on the type of

wallcovering it is and how it was applied.
NEWER VINYL WALLCOVERINGS ARE DESIGNED TO BE "STRIPPABLE," WHICH
MEA N S THE Y CAN B ERE M 0 V E D BY HAN D. All you have to do is find a loose edge and
pull upward. Some other wallcoverings leave a layer of paper that can be scraped off easily
when it's dampened with water. Still others can be removed only with a fair amount of time
and effort.
If wallcovering is hung over unsealed drywall, it's virtually impossible to remove it without
destroying the drywall. You may be able to paint or hang new wallcovering directly over the
old, but you have to make sure the surface is smooth and prime it with an alkyd drywall
pnmer.
The only way to fmd out what's lurking beneath your walicovering is to grab an edge and pull!

WALLPAPER STRIPPING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Hand pump sprayer
Paint scraper
Wallpaper remover
Sponge
- -
Rubber gloves
Wallpaper perforating tool
SKILLS YOU NEED
• Patience
Properly applied wallcovering-good-quality coverings that have been applied DIFFICULTY LEVEL
with good wallpaper adhesive over primed walls--can be stripped with a

This project takes 15 minutes to an
remover solution, drywall knife, and a little time and patience.
entire weekend, depending on the size
of the room you're working in and
the type of wallpaper.
ALKYD-An oil-based primer or paint.
PAINTING & DECORATING - Stripping Wallcoverings 381

HOW TO STRIP WALLCO\LERINGS
1 Find a loose corner and pull upward. If there 2 Dilute wallpaper remover in water, according
are no loose corners, use a putty knife to pry to the manufacturer's directions. Wash the walls,
one loose and pull. If the paper comes off easily, working from the top toward the bottom of the
you 're home free. Just keep pulling until it's all off walls. Rinse the walls with clear water and let
the walls. them dry completely.
HOW TO REMOVE STUBBORN WALLCOVERINGS
1 If the wallcovering doesn't pull off easily, it's

time to bring in the big guns. Cover the floor with
drop cloths, and then dilute wallpaper remover in 2 Run a perforating tool over the surface of the
a bucket of water, following the manufacturer's wallcovering. (It creates holes that let the remover
directions. solution penetrate the surface to loosen the adhesive.)
3 Use a pressure sprayer to apply the remover 4 Scrape away loosened wallcovering with a
solution. Let the solution soak into the covering, wide drywall knife. Be careful not to damage the
according to the manufacturer's directions. wall behind the paper, and make sure you remove
any backing paper or other layers.
,
,- T o check the cleaned wall for remaining
adhesive, holes, or other flaws, illuminate
the wall from the side, using a bright light.
Inspect the walls carefully, making sure they are
5 Rinse adhesive residue from the wall with completely clean and repaired before painting
remover solution. Rinse with clear water and let or hanging new wallcoverings.
the walls dry.
PAINTING & DECORATING' Stripping Wallcoverings 383

Hanging Wallcoverings
• ,
Hanging wallcoverings requires careful planning and attention to detail.

The work is not difficult, but it's a challenging project.
THE OLD ADAGE IN CARPENTRY, "MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE," IS JUST AS
APPLICABLE TO WALLCOVERING PROJECTS. The materials are expensive and mistakes

immediately obvious. The only way to avoid problems is to plan meticulously.
First, measure the room and sketch out a hanging plan. Next, prepare the room and recruit a
helper or two. Plan to work during daylight hours whenever possible, as the light is better and
the adhesive dries more evenly.
HANGING WALLCOVERING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
p---------- High-quality
sponges
t
I Width
I
I
"''''r________ .I. _____ ....I
I Length I
I I
·--*7------ 1------.
I Heiaht J Perimeter I

--
BOOK-To lightly fold moistened wallcovering so that the pasted sides face one
another. Allows adhesive to cure in preparation for hanging. Smoothing
tool
BUBBLESTICK-A plastic ruler with a level bubble in it. This tool is lightweight
and easy to use when establishing plumb lines and when cutting.
MISMATCH-Point where a full strip meets a partial strip, typically placed behind
a door or in an inconspicuous spot. Few rooms can be covered without one par-
tial strip-the math just doesn't come out that way very often.
RAZOR KNIFE-A small, lightweight knife used for trimming wallcovering. Tip of
blade can be snapped off to renew tip.
SMOOTHING BRUSHES-Tools used to press wallpaper onto wall. Short-nap

brushes are best for vinyl wallcoverings. Brushes with a long, soft nap are used
for fragile wallcoverings, such as grasscloth.
SMOOTHING TOOL-A lightweight piece of plastic used to smooth out bubbles SKILLS YOU NEED
in wallcovering.
Successful wallcovering projects start with careful planning. The mismatch • Establishing plumb lines
should be placed in an inconspicuous area, such as behind a door. The actu- • Cutting accurately
al hanging starts at a focal point, such as a fireplace or large window. In
rooms that don't have an obvious focal point, it starts at the corner farthest
from the entry. The wallcovering should always overlap at the corners: at
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
least Y.1" on inside corners and 1" on outside corners.
Each strip should start with a full pattern at the ceiling line and should over- Allow at least one full day per room.
lap both the ceiling and baseboard by about 2" so it can be trimmed pre-
cisely during the hanging process.
Turn off the power to the circuit in the room and remove covers on recep-
tacles and switches before starting a wallcovering project.
PAINTING & DECORATING' Hanging Wallcoverings 385
HOW TO CREATE A ｈａｎｇｉｾ＠ PLAN
,,
\ ,,
; I
I \
\ ,
2 If the room doesn't have an obvious focal
point, start at the corner farthest from the entry,
measure a distance equal to the width of the wall-
covering and mark a point. Work in both direc-
1 Measure the room and create a sketch of the tions, marking the points where seams will fall.
hanging plan. Center a plumb line on a focal point,
such as a fireplace or window, and sketch out a
plan in both directions from the center line.
3 Adjust the hanging plan for corners that fall 4 Adjust for seams that fall in difficult locations,
exactly on seam lines. Make sure the walle overing such as near the edges of windows or doors. Shift
will overlap at least )12" on inside corners and 1" on the starting point so the seams leave workable
outside corners. widths of wallcovering around obstacles.

HOW TO PREPARE ｗａｌｃｑｾｅｒｉｎｇ＠ STRI P-S
2 Fill a water tray half full of lukewarm water.

1 Hold the wallcovering against the wall so Roll the cut strip loosely with the pattern side in.
there is a full pattern at the ceiling line and the strip Soak the roll in the tray as directed by the manu-
overlaps both the ceiling and the baseboard by at facturer, u sually abou t one minute, to activate the
least 2". eu t the strip to length, using scissors . prepasted adhesive.
.. ,. • •
f wallpaper can be "booked" (check manufac-
3 Hold up a second strip and find the pattern
match with the previously hung strip. Measure
I turer's directions), fold each end of the strip
to the center, with the pasted side in. Do not
and cut the new strip with about 2" of excess at crease the folds . Let the strip cure for about
each end. 10 minutes.
PAINTING & D EC ORATI NG' H a ng in g W a llco ve ring s 387

HOW TO APPLY WALLCO ERINGS
1 From the starting point shown in your hang- 2 Cut and prepare the first strip (see page 387).
ing plan, measure a distance equal to the width of Unfold the top portion of the booked strip and
the wallcovering minus Yz" and mark a point. position it against the plumb line so the strip
Draw a vertical plumb line from the ceiling to the extends beyond the ceiling joint by about 2".
floor, using a bubblestick or level.
3 At the corner fold line, snip the top of the strip

so the wallcovering wraps around the corner without 4 Unfold the bottom of the strip. Use your open
wrinkling. Using your open palms, slide the strip into palms to position it against the plumb line.
position with the edge butted against the plumb line. Smooth the strip with a smoothing brush, careful-
Smooth the strip with a smoothing brush. ly pressing out any bubbles.

5 Trim the excess wallcovering at the ceiling 6 Hang additional strips, sliding strips into place
and baseboard, using a drywall knife and a utility so the pattern matches exactly. Let the strips stand
knife. With clean water and a sponge, rinse any for about half an hour, then roll the seams w ith a
adhesive from the surface of the wallcovering. seam roller. (On embossed or fabric wallcoverings,
set the seams with a smoothing brush. )
TOOL TIP
7 Where wallcovering covers receptacle or

switch boxes, use a razor knife to make small diag-
D ull blades tear wallcovering rather than
cutting it cleanly. To renew the blade on a
disposable razor knife, break the tip away. For
onal cuts to expose the box. Finally, trim the paper safety, grasp the blade with pliers and bend
to the edges of the box. Note: Turn off power to down until the old tip of the blade breaks away
the circuit and remove switch and receptacle cov- at the scored line .
ers before starting the project.
PAI N TING & D EC ORATI NG' H a ng in g W a llco ve r i ng s 389

HOW TO HANG WALLCOVERING
AROUND AN INSIDE ｃｏｒｾｅ＠
1 Cut and prepare a full strip. While the strip 2 Position the strip. Make corner slits at the top
cures, measure from the edge of the preceding and bottom of the strip to wrap the overlap
strip to the corner at several points; add y," to the around the corner without wrinkles. Smooth the
longest of these measurements. Make sure the strip with a smoothing brush, then trim the excess
edges of the booked strip are aligned perfectly, at the ceiling and baseboard.
then mark this distance near the top and bottom
of the booked strip. Hold a straightedge against
the marks and cut the strip.
4 Position the strip on the wall with the cut

edge in the corner and the uncut edge against the
plumb line drawn in step 3. Smooth and trim the
3 Measure a distance equal to the remainder of strip. If the wall covering is vinyl, peel back the
the strip you cut in step 1, and mark a point equal edge and apply a bead of vinyl-on-vinyl adhesive
to this measurement. At this mark, draw a plumb to the lapped area. Press the seam flat and let it
line from the ceiling to the floor on the next wall. cure before rolling the seams.

AROUND DOORS AND ｗｉｾｄｏｓ＠
1 Position the strip on the wall as usual, run- 2 Use scissors to make diagonal cuts at the cor-
ning the wallcovering over the window or door. ners of the casings. Trim away excess wall covering
Smooth the wallcovering, pressing the strip tightly to about 1" around the inside of the frame.
against the case molding.
4 Cut short strips to hang above (and below, if

this is a window) the opening. Check your scraps
3 Hold a drywall knife and use a razor knife to to see whether any will fill the space while main-
trim the strip. taining the repeat of the pattern.
PAINTING & DECORATING· Hanging Wallcoverings 391

AROUND DOORS AND WINDOWS (CONTINUED)
5 At the other side of the opening, position a 6 Match the pattern at the seam on the bottom
strip and smooth it into place. Snip the corner half and slide the strip into place. Trim the excess
diagonally and trim away excess as described in as described in steps 2 and 3 above. Rinse the wall-
step 2 above. covering and casings, using a damp sponge.

AROUND A WALL-MOUNTED SINK
•
2 Trim the wallcovering around the sink, leav-

1 Cut and position the strip, brushing it up to ing a slight overlap. Smooth the strip, tucking the
the edge of the sink. Cut slits in the wallcovering, overlap into a gap around the sink, if possible. Or,
leaving a \4" overlap around the edges of the sink. neatly trim the overlap.

HOW TO HANG ｗａｌｃｏｖｾｉｎｇ＠ AROUND A PIPE
1 Pull the escutcheon plate out from the wall.

Hold the strip against the wall so the pattern
matches the previous strip. From the closest edge 2 Press the strip flat up to the pipe with a
of the strip, cut the slit to reach the pipe. smoothing brush.
HERE'S HOW
•
C utting slits in your favorite wallpaper may

feel intimidating at first. It gets easier with
3 Cut a hole at the end of the slit to fit around time, especially if you take the time to make the
slits along a pattern line, which helps disguise
the pipe. Butt the edges of the slit together and
them.
brush them smooth.
PAINTING & DECORATING PROJECTS' Hanging Wallcoverings 393

·
-.. .......

Outdoor Projects
THOUGH THEY'RE NOT ALWAYS THE FLASHIEST PROJECTS, REPAIRS
TO THE EXTERIOR WALLS, ROOF, FOUNDATION, WINDOWS, SID-
ING, AND DOORS ARE AMONG THE MOST IMPORTANT YOU CAN
DO. NEGLECT THEM, AND YOUR HOUSE BECOMES SUSCEPTIBLE TO
DETERIORATION FROM THE OUTSIDE IN; DO THEM DILIGENTLY
AND YOUR HOME WILL PROVIDE A SECURE AND COMFORTABLE
LIVING PLACE FOR YOU AND YOUR FAMILY FOR YEARS TO COME
(AND THE NEIGHBORS WILL APPRECIATE YOUR WORK, TOO).
In this section you'll learn how to repair and maintain your home to pre-
vent and fix damage caused by the outside elements. Like all other sec-
tions in this book, the projects here can help you even if you know
nothing at all about home repairs or improvements. All the information
you'll need to get the job done is right here.
IN THIS CHAPTER:
o Before You Begin o Repairing Siding

Outdoor Tool Kit o Repairing Stucco
o Clearing Clogged Gutters o Renewing Wood Decks
o Touching Up Exterior Paint o Replacing Damaged Roof
Shingles
o Fixing Sliding Screen Doors
o Installing Storm Doors o Installing Locksets & Deadbolts
o Tuning Up Double-Hung o Tuning Up Garage Doors
Windows o Installing House Gutters
o Exterior Caulking o Installing Landscape Lighting
o Pestproofing o Pressure Washing a House
o Fixing Concrete Walkways
o Repairing Asphalt Driveways
o Fixing Broken Glass Panes
o Repairing Concrete Steps
OUTDOOR PROJECTS - Introduction 395

Before You Begin:
Outdoor Tool Kit
The outdoor fix-it projects in this book really

don't require much in the way of special
tools and materials. Although a few of
the projects may call for a specialty
tool or two, most of them can be
completed with a basic set
of hand and power tools.

The group of tools shown here is a collection that
will put you well on your way to doing the proj-
ects in this book, as well as most general car-
pentry repair projects around the house.
But don't worrry if you don't yet own
them. You can gradually assemble
your tool kit as you take on
project after project. Or, you
can borrow them from a
neighbor or friend as
you need them. ｾ＠ .
••
OUTDOOR PROJECTS - Before You Begin 397

Clearing Clogged Gutters
Gutter systems playa critical role in protecting both the exterior and interior
of your house. By catching runoff water from the roof, gutters keep the
siding dry. They also prevent water from pooling around the foundation-
the most common cause of wet basements.
THE IDEA BEHIND GUTTERS IS SIMPLE: JUST COLLECT THE RAINWATER THAT FALLS ON A ROOF AND
DIVERT IT FROM THE FOUNDATION OF THE HOUSE. Ironically the root cause of gutter dys·
function is rarely the water itself. Instead it's the leaves and twigs that get trapped in the
gutters and clog the downspouts. When these exits are blocked, the water runs over the
lip of the gutter and falls exactly where you don't want it to fall: next to the foundation .
Clogged gutters lead to stained siding in the summer and ice dams in the winter. The
solution is obvious: clean the gutters a couple of times a year.
Cleaning gutters means working from ladders. To do the job right, lean an extension lad-
der against the house (with rubber ladder end guards to protect the siding) or against the
roof (using a ladder stabilizer). Climb up with a garden hose and bucket in hand. If
there's just a little bit of debris, try washing it out with the garden hose. But heavy con-
gestion has to be removed by hand. A putty knife is a good tool for this job. Just lift out
the mess and put it in the bucket. To free clogged downspouts, push a garden hose down
the pipe and run the water at full force until the clog breaks loose and the pipe is clear.

GUTTERS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Downspout
screen
Flat bar
Caulk gun
Clogs can occur anywhere in a gutter system, but the most likely trouble spots
are at the downspout outlets and in the drain pipe.
END cAPS-Placed at the end of gutter runs.
INSIDE / OUTSIDE CORNERS-Used on corners with no water outlet to carry

water around a corner.
DOWNSPOUT OUTLETS-Should be placed at least every 35 feet. MODERATE
DRAIN PIPE HANGERS-Should use at least two per drain pipe. This project can be completed in
4 to 6 hours.
DOWNSPOUT ELBOWS-Recommended three per downspout.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Clearing Clogged Gutters 399

............ｌＮｉＭＦｉｾｉＮＺｑ｜ｉｊｌ＠ I O C LEA N & REPA IRe LO G.GE,_'-"-'....ｾ＠ ERS
2 Stubborn clogs in downspouts can be loos-

ened and flushed away with a garden hose. Just
push the end of the hose down the pipe and turn
1 Clean dense debris from gutters using a putty on the water full blast.
knife or a narrow drywall knife. Put the debris in a
bucket instead of dropping it on the ground.
4 Leaky joints berween sections of gutter or at

3 If your gutter collects a lot of leaves and fre- downspout connections can be patched with gutter
quently clogs the downspouts, slide a ball-shaped seal. Just clean out any debris, dry the seam, and fill
screen into the top of each pipe or cover the it well with sealer. Smooth the bead with your fm -
entire gutter with a protective screen. gertip or a putty knife.

6 To straighten gutters that are supported with
5 To straighten a sagging gutter, remove hang-

hanging brackets, loosen the brackets, lift the gut-
ter and reinstall the brackets.
ers or spikes in the sagging area. Snap a chalkline
at the correct height, raise the gutter to the line,
and then reinstall the hangers.
fOlding extension is a gutter accessory that

A mounts on the bottom on a downspout and
works like a splash block to send the water away
from the house. Because it's hinged, the pipe
can be folded up out of the way when mowing
or working in planting beds next to the house.
7 Splash blocks are designed to direct water

from the downspouts away from the house foun -
dation. If you have these blocks, make sure they're
positioned directly under the downspouts. If you
don't have the blocks, buy and install them.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Clearing Clogged Gutters 401
Touching Up
Exterior Paint
2
--
Few projects will go further than touching up painted siding when it comes
to freshening up the appearance of your house.
IF YOU OWN A HOUSE WITH A PAINTED EXTERIOR, YOU ALREADY KNOW ABOUT
PER PET U A L M A I N TEN A NeE.It goes something like this. You painted your house the year
your daughter graduated from eighth grade. It was a big deal because you had to get it done
between her end-of-school party (in your backyard) and the family reunion in August (also in
your backyard). Of course you spent your whole vacation doing it, except for the two days
when nearly every in-law asked why you didn't hire a professional to do the job. Sometimes
doing the right thing doesn't seem like the right thing to do.
But once the job was done, you enjoyed (for about three years) not thinking about paint.
Then it started. At first it was just a little flaking along the bottom edge of the fascia. Then
it spread to the window casing boards and the top edge of the water table, behind the bush-
es. Suddenly, it became clear that the whole house would need repainting just when your
daughter would be graduating from high school. Talk about perpetual maintenance.
Unfortunately, there's no happy ending to this dark story But there is a way to protect your
flank while retreating: routine paint touch-ups. If you fix the little things when they go bad,
you can easily postpone a major repainting for several years. And every summer without
drop cloths and extension ladders is a blessing to be counted by all.

SANDING SIDING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Flap
sander
Paint brushes
Sanding block
Caulk
gun &
silicone
caulk
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
The amount of surface preparation you do will largely determine the final appear·
ance of your paint job. Decide how much sanding and scraping you're willing to
do to obtain a finish you'll be happy with.
MODERATE
This project can be completed in five

TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW to seven days.
CAR·WASHING BRUSH-A common automotive maintenance tool that consists of a

soft· bristle brush mounted on the end of a wand made of aluminum tubing. The
wand attaches to a garden hose.
FLAP SANDER-An accessory designed for electric drills made of narrow pieces of
abrasive paper attached to a steel arbor. The drill turns the arbor and paper in a
rotary motion.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Touching Up Exterior Paint 403

ｾｒｅ＠ ALNIING
1 Wash your siding with an inexpensive hose- 2 Scrape away peeling paint with a paint
mounted brush, such as a car-washing brush. scraper. Don't gouge the wood, and be sure to
Work from the top of the wall to the bottom. Use change (or sharpen) the scraper blade frequently
household detergent on tough spots and rinse all to make the work go faster.
soapy areas thoroughly.
4 Use a flap sander mounted in an electric drill

3 Use IOO-grit sandpaper over a sanding block (or a cordless drill for very quick jobs) to remove
to smooth the scraped areas. Feather the edges so peeling paint from curved surfaces. This tool
they match the surrounding surface. works on both concave and convex boards.

•
5 On larger scraped areas, use an electric

sander to smooth the surface. Use lOO-grit sandpa-
per and be sure to brush the sanding dust off the
6 Fill any cracks between the siding and the
door and window trim using a caulk gun and
siding or trim when you're done. paintable, exterior caulk. Fill deep cracks in a cou-
ple of passes to keep the caulk from smearing on
the siding.
7 Prime and then paint all sanded areas. And,

try not to over-brush. Because paint tends to fade
over time, your touch-ups will look brighter than 8 Try to remove any paint splatters from win-
the original paint covering. Keeping their size as dow glass before they dry. Once the paint hardens
small as possible will make them less noticeable. it's much harder to remove.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Touching Up Exterior Paint 405

Fixing Sliding
Screen Doors
3
Screen doors are extremely vulnerable to damage from feet, pets and a
host of other hazards. But fixing them is a breeze.
SLIDING GLASS DOORS ARE MOSTLY GOOD THINGS. They let in a lot of light and
when the sliding panel is open, they let in a lot of air. And, because all these doors have slid·
ing screens, the air they let in is reasonably bug free. The problem is, the large screen easily
falls victim to pets and children and often needs repair.
To replace the screen, you need to remove the screen door panel. It is held in grooves by four
spring-loaded wheels, one at each corner of the door. It is nearly impossible, and very frus-
trating, to try to replace a screen with the panel in place. The screen is held in place with a
flexible plastic spline cord which you can easily pull out.
Take a short section of the old spline to a hardware store or home center and buy new spline
material that matches the diameter of the old one. Also buy replacement screening and an
installation tool that is designed for the size of spline you are installing. These tools come
with a roller on both ends. One is convex shaped and is used to forced the screen into the
door groove. The other roller has a concave edge to force the spline over the screen.

WINDOW SCREENING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Screening
material
Mineral
spirits
Aluminum
mesh
•
Masking
tape
Fiberglass
mesh
Spline
roller
Window screening (technically, it's called insect mesh) is woven from three dif-
ferent materials: galvanized wire, aluminum wire and black fiberglass strands. Spline cord
Each has its advantages and drawbacks: galvanized wire is inexpensive and easy
to find, but can become misshapen or rusty; aluminum is less common, but it is
strong and won't discolor as easily; fiberglass is easy to work with and won't
rust or corrode, but it is prone to tearing. The best advice is simply to buy
screening that matches the windows on the rest of your house.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
SPLINE-For sliding screen doors, a flexible plastic material (round in cross sec-
tion) that holds screening tight in door grooves. Sold in long strings and sized to MODERATE
fit different width grooves.
This project can be completed in
SPLINE ROLLER-A specialty tool designed to force spline cords into the spline two to three hours.
channel of the screen frame.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Fixing Sliding Screen Doors 407

1 You can't remove the screen door until you
2 Remove the door rollers using a screwdriver.
Sometimes these rollers can just be pried out.
release the tension on the roller wheels. Back off Other times you'll have to remove a small screw.
the adjustment screws, then lift the door out of
the channel that holds it captive.
3 Clean the rollers with mineral spirits and 4 Pry up one corner of the old spline and then
an old paint brush. Once all the dirt and grime gently pull it out of the screen channel. If this
is removed, dry the rollers and lubricate them plastic spline is still soft and flexible , it can be
with light oil. reused for the new screen.

5 Tape the new screen onto the door frame
6 Force the screen into the door groove using
the convex wheel on the spline roller installation
with masking tape. Then make a diagonal cut at tool. Don't force the screen in with a single pass.
each corner to remove the excess screen. This will Rather, make several lighter passes until the screen
keep the screen from bulging at the corner when reaches the bottom of the channel.
it is pressed into its channel.
7 Once the screen is in the channel, install the

spline material. Use the concave wheel and work 8 Trim off any excess screening with a sharp
slowly to make sure the spline is forced all the way utility knife. Do not cut the spline. Reinstall the
into the channel. Several passes may be required. wheels and replace the panel in the door.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Fixing Sliding Screen Doors 409

Installing Storm Doors
4
A quality storm door helps seal out cold drafts, keeps rain and snow off your
entry door, and lets a bug-free breeze into your home when you want one.
STORM DOORS PROTECT THE ENTRY DOOR FROM DRIVING RAIN OR SNOW. They
create a dead air buffer between the two doors that acts like insulation. When the screen pan-
els are in place, the door provides great ventilation on a hot day. And, they deliver added secu-
rity, especially when outfitted with a lockset and a deadbolt lock.
If you want to install a brand new storm door or replace an old one that's seen better days,
your first job is to go shopping. Storm doors come in many different styles to suit just about
anyone's design needs. And they come in different materials, including aluminum, vinyl, and
even fiberglass. (Wood storm doors are still available but not in preassembled form. ) All these
units feature a pre-hung door in a frame that is mounted on the entry door casing boards.
Depending on the model you buy, installation instructions can vary. So be sure to check the
directions that came with your door before starting the job.

STORM DOORS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Drill and
bits
Primer and paint

Level
Finish
Tape ｭ･｡ｳｵｲｾＬＺＷ＠
ｾ＠
Paint brush Masking tape
Hacksaw
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
DOOR CLOSERS-Storm doors are relatively lightweight and because they

open outward they are susceptible to catching the wind and becoming
damaged . For this reason, a storm door should be equipped with a spring-
EASY MODERATE
protected safety chain at the top and a pneumatic closer that can be locat-
ed anywhere on the door (usually about handle level). six to eight hours.
DOOR JAMBS-The boards that line the rough opening of the doorway. The door
swings between them and the hinges and strike plate are mounted on them.
DOOR CASING BOARDS-Boards that are nailed to the jambs and the wall surround-
ing any door opening. They lay flat against the wall covering inside, and flat
against the wall sheathing on the outside.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Installing Storm Doors 411

2 Install the rain cap at the top of the door
1 Test fit the door in the opening. If it is loose,
opening. The directions for the door you have will
explain exactly how to do this. Sometimes it's the
add a shim to the hinge side of the door. Cut the
first step, like we show here; sometimes it's
piece with a circular saw and nail it to the side of
installed after the door is in place.
the jamb, flush with the front of the casing.
3 Measure the height of the opening and cut 4 Lift the door and push it tightly into the
the hinge flange to match this measurement. opening. Partially drive one mounting screw near
Use a hacksaw and work slowly so the saw won't the bottom and another near the top. Check the
hop out of the cut and scratch a visible area of door for plumb, and when satisfied, drive all the
the hinge. mounting screws tight to the flange.

5 Measure from the doorway sill to the rain 6 Cut the latch-side flange with a hacksaw.
cap to establish the length of the latch-side Work carefully so you don't pull out the weather-
mounting flange. stripping from the flange channel as you cut.
7 Install the latch-side flange with a couple of

partially-driven screws. Then check that the open-
ing width is the same at the top, middle and bot- 8 To install the door sweep, slide it over the bot-
tom. When you're satisfied that this flange is tom of the door and install its mounting screws
parallel to the hinge flange , install all the mount- loosely. Make sure the sweep forms a tight seal
ing screws securely. with the sill, then tighten the screws.

9 Install the lockset by pushing the outside half
of the unit into the mounting holes from the out-
side of the door. Hold it in place with masking tape.
10 Mount the other half of the lockset on
the inside of the door. Just line up the screws and
push them into the threaded tubes on the outside
half of the unit. Tighten the screws securely.
11 Install the deadbolt in the same way you 12 Install the strike plates for both the lockset
installed the lockset. Slide the outside half in first (shown here) and the deadbolt locks. These plates
and then add the inside half and tighten the are just screwed to the door jamb where the lock
mounting screws. bolt and deadbolt fall (see pages 462 to 467).

14 Install the door closer bracket on the
13 Begin installing the door closer by screw- inside of the door. Then mount the closer on the
jamb bracket and the door bracket. Usually the
ing the jamb bracket in place. Most of these
brackets have slotted screw holes so you can make closer is attached to these with some form of
minor adjustments without taking off the bracket. short locking pin.
L..: '
.... \.\"
ｾＨ＠
.
16 Some doors feature a storage compart-

15 Adjust the automatic door closer so it ment for the glass sash and the screen sash
closes the door completely without slamming it. between the bottom panels of the door. To change
The adjustment is usually made by turning a set sashes, just unlock one and slide it down. Then
screw in and out with a screwdriver. pull up the other and lock it in place.

Tuning Up
Double-Hung Windows
5
Double-hung windows stick from time to time and often are painted shut.
A special serrated paint tool is made for breaking the paint lines, but a
plain putty knife can also do the job.
DOUBLE-HUNG WINDOWS ARE THE MOST COMMON WINDOW TYPES. It's not hard
to understand why. They don't open outward, which would expose them to more potential
weather damage than they already confront. And, they don't open inward, which would tan-
gle curtains and drapes every time you wanted some air. They don't have elaborate hinge
mechanisms that wear over time and need service or replacement.
Newer models are much more energy efficient than older ones, and almost never need any
maintenance beyond cleaning. Unfortunately, they don't look as good as older versions,
unless you buy the top-drawer models. Many well-built windows still come with snap-in grills
to simulate the muntins found on old sashes.
If you are have old windows and you want to keep them, know this: there will be some win-
dow maintenance in your future to keep things running smoothly.

DOUBLE-HUNG WINDOWS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Head
jamb ""
Bench ｐｬ｡ｮ･ＺＮＢｦｉｩｾ＠ ••
Parting
strip
"" Sidl--------
jamb
"-
-
Hammer
ｂｬｩｮＺ
stop
ｾ＠
F
Sill
!"'"
----,..---
--
1OO-grit
sandpaper
- ｾ＠ -- ..,.."... ｾ＠
",.,.
ｾ＠
Candle
ｾ＠
Sash /
ｾ＠
stop
When they are working well, there's nothing like an old double-hung window.
You can open and close a heavy sash with just one finger because the sashes are
tied to counter weights that slide up and down in channels behind the side
Putty knife Chisel
jambs. The balance between the weights and sash is so delicate that gentle fin-
ger pressure will start the weights moving down which will carry the sash up.
Though the sash cords do break eventually, most poor performance is caused by
binding sashes. DIFFICULTY LEVEL
MUNTINS-Secondary framing members that hold multiple glass panes within MODERATE
a single window sash.
SASH STOp-A small trim board that is nailed to both window jambs to hold one to two hours per window.
the sash in place. Also called a window stop.
PARTING STRIP-A narrow strip that separates two sashes on a typical

double-hung window.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Tuning Up Double-Hung Windows 417

NE UP ｄｏｕｂｌｅＭｴＺｩｾ＠ｉｾｄｏｗｓｾ＠ _ _ _.
1 Loosen a stuck window sash by forcing a

2 Once the sash is free, push it out of the way
putty knife between the sash and the window stop
and clean out any debris from the sash channel
or parting strip. If hand pressure isn't enough to
using an old chisel or stiff, narrow putty knife.
push in the blade, tap the handle with a hammer.
Loosen both sides of the sash.
TIP :
ashes that bind only slightly can often be

S freed by tapping the stop with a small
3 Clean up the channel by sanding all three sur-

block of wood. Don't strike the block too
hard. This could split the stop. Firm taps
faces smooth. Use IOO-grit paper wrapped around
should do the trick.
a scrap block of wood. Brush away the sanding
dust or vacuum it up.
5 To remove a bottom sash, take off the stop
4 Paraffin is a good lubricant for sash channels. trim on both jambs that hold the sash in place.
Just rub a candle vigorously against all three sur- Slide a chisel or putty knife between the two sur-
faces of both channels. faces and pry gently to avoid splitting the stop.
6 Once the stops are removed the sash can

7 To free the upper sash, remove the parting
strip on both jambs. Grip each strip at the bottom
swing free. Remove the weight cords from the or top with pliers and pull. The parting strips are
sides and cut or plane the sash so it fits the held only by friction, no fasteners are used. Protect
channels better. the strip with small scrap blocks on both sides.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Tuning Up Double-Hung Windows 419

Exterior Caulking
6
Caulk guns are used to deliver a wide range of household products, not
simply caulk. The guns are tricky to use at first, but with practice you'll get
the hang of it.
WHEN YOU VISIT EVEN A MODEST HARDWARE STORE YOU WILL BE CONFRONT-
ED WITH AT LEAST TEN DIFFERENT KINDS OF CAULK, ALL IN THE SAME-SIZE
TUB E S. It is possible, naturally, to read the labels and find out what the manufacturer says
the caulk should do. But who wants to spend that kind of time and effort on cheap goop?
Well, maybe you should, if you want to save money on heating and air-conditioning costs,
keep insects out, and prevent water from working its way behind your siding. Caulk can do
all of this and more. You just have to buy a couple of tubes, spring for a caulk gun (about $4),
and spend a little time filling house holes.
Any holes cut through the outside envelope of the house for services, like electricity, tele-
phone, cable or satellite dishes, gas pipes, clothes dryer vents, outdoor receptacles and light
fixtures, and garden hose sillcocks are candidates for caulking. Then hunt down the cracks
that open up between the siding boards and the trim boards, like the window and door cas-
ings, the corner boards and baseboard trim along the bottom of the walls.

CAULK 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Exterior primer
and paint
Silicone
acrylic
caulk
Utility
knife
Among the many products available for purchase in caulk-style cartridges are
Putty
true caulks (usually made of silicone, acrylic, latex or a combination), but you'll knife
also find specialty products that are formulated for specific materials, such as
concrete. Some manufacturers list longevity ratings, which should really only be
used for comparison purposes among similar brands.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
SILICONE ACRYLIC CAULK-A resilient gap-filling compound made with acrylic and
silicone resins that's very flexible, durable, and has a low coefficient of thermal
expansion. Cleans up with soap and water. MODERATE

one to six hours.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Exterior Caulking 421

........-...... ＭＬｃＭＮ［ｑｾＬＭＢｾＮＭ｣ｓ＠ POTS FOR ｃｾａｾｕｾｌＮＢｋＮｌＡｉ＠ｎｾｇｾ＠ _ _ _.
2 Exterior receptacles have a gasket between

the cover plate and the box. However, nothing
blocks the air movem ent around the box. Caulk
around the box to flil these holes.
1 Exterior light fIxtures rarely fit tightly to the

siding. To block the air inflitratio n, apply a bead of CAULK APPLICATIONS
caulk all the way around the base. Smooth the
bead with a wet fI nger. ading through the variety of caulks avail-
W able is imposing but, fortunately, not
impossible. For exterior use you want something
flexible and durable, and the best choice is a sili-
cone acrylic caulk. These products are more
expensive than basic acrylic latex caulk but they
perform better. They also clean up with water,
which is a real plus. Sometimes this caulk is avail-
able in colors but usually you'll find it only in
clear and white versions. If you need color, you'll
have to paint over the caulk after it's dry-but
make sure you buy paintable caulk.
Using caulk is messy, especially if you over-fill

holes and then try to wipe off the excess. Cut
the tip off the tube applicator to match the size
of most of the holes you want to fill. Use a sharp
utility knife and angle the cut to about 4S
degrees to get the best bead. Poke the inside
membrane of the tube by pushing a long nail
down through the applicator. Then slide the tube
into the gun, click the trigger a few times so the
3 Dryer vent hoods occupy a lot of area and a

plunger bears against the bottom of the tube
and squeeze the handle . As the caulk starts flow-
loose one lets in a lot of air. If the hood rests on ing, move the tip along the hole or crack until
beveled siding, there may be large voids where the it's full.
siding boards lap. Fill these holes with caulk and
smooth the bead with your finger.
4 Old caulk that is cracked or pulling away
from the joint should be removed. Cut both sides
of the old caulk using a carpet knife or utility 5 Once the caulk is removed, prime the crack
knife and pull the debris from the joint. Remove with exterior primer. Make sure to coat all the
dust with an old paintbrush. exposed wood.
7 Finish up the job by brushing on rwo coats of

6 After the primer dries, caulk the joint and paint. Allow the caulk to dry, according to the
smooth the bead with your finger or a putty knife. manufacturer's instructions, before you paint.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Exterior Caulking 423

Pestproofing
Your House
They might be cute as a button or perfectly gruesome, but uninvited pests

can do enormous damage to your home and need to be kept out.
IN THE END, IT MAY BE A SIMPLE QUESTION OF ETIQUETTE. If you invite pests into
your house, you can't feel put out when they decide to accept. And, what constitutes an invi-
tation? Well, lots of things, like holes that aren't caulked, chimneys without protective flue
covers, damaged vent screening and so on. Of course, taking such a hard line is a little bit like
blaming the victim. Is everybody really supposed to know where all the holes in the house
are and be familiar with the travel patterns of all the local squirrels? Probably not, at least
when it comes to the squirrels.
The most common entry points are small holes along the foundation and soffits, and some-
times next to windows and doors. These should all be filled with silicone acrylic caulk. Holes
much wider than 1,4 in. should be stuffed with caulk backer before caulking. Also fill any gaps
around where phone, gas, cable, electric, water and other services enter the house. Once you
are done filling the obvious gaps, look for evidence of infestation like animal droppings or
nesting materials. Remove these and check the area for any entry points that you might have
missed. If the rodents persist, you can fight back with spring-loaded death traps or Havahart-
type traps that capture the animal so it can be released outside.

PESTPROOFING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Vent screening
Chimney
flue cap
ｾ＠ Staple gun
ｾ＠ and staple
The mudsill is the area formed by the foundation wall and the sill plates of your
Tennis ball
exterior walls. It is the most likely point of pest invasions and should be inspect-
ed (look for light coming in from outdoors) and caulked regularly. Protected dryer
vent hood
GETTING THEM OUT WHEN THEY'RE IN
here are many hardware-store products designed to help you get rid of
T pests inside your house. For insects in the attic and basement, pesticide fog-
gers are one option. These shouldn't be used around food prep areas or when DIFFICULTY LEVEL
anyone is in the house. The usual approach is to activate the fogger and then
leave for a few hours. No matter which product you buy, follow the use instruc-
tions carefully.
Common roach and ant traps do capture a lot of pests, but will not solve
the problem unless the source from outside is eliminated. The same is true
of all sorts of mousetraps. If you've closed all the entry points that you can EASY MODERATE
find, and you've trapped all the pests that should have been inside when This project can be completed in
you plugged the holes, then you need help. Call a reputable exterminator one to four hours.
and let them handle the job.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Pestproofing Your House 425

HOW TO PESTPROOF
2 Most roof vents come with screens installed

1 If your chimney flue doesn't have a cap, you to keep insects out of the house. If this screen is
are inviting birds, bats, and squirrels into the flue, torn or missing, staple new screening (it's actually
especially if you never use the fireplace. A chim- called insect mesh at the store) to the backside of
ney cap with screening or mesh on the sides will the vent with \4"-long staples.
keep all these pests out.
4 Sill plates are supposed to be installed over a

3 Replace typical flap -type dryer vents (inset) sealer material that keeps out insects. But some-
with protected vent hoods. These keep out insects times the sealer is left off. If you see evidence
and small rodents, and are deSigned to be a univer- that insects are coming through the joint, fill it
sal replacement for standard vent hoods. with caulk outside and inside (see page 425 ).

6 Check the foundation of your house for
5 Insects can easily enter your house through a anthills, wasp's nests and termite tunnels. If you
find any of these nests, remove them and close off
basement floor drain. The drain hole can be filled
with a tennis ball that will float out of the way to the points of entry
allow water into the drain if the floor is flooded.
,,
_.
4 .
ＧＧｾＮ＠
7 Be especially watchful in moist areas of the 8 If you ever find evidence of termite-eaten
house where many insects prefer to be. Eliminate wood, call an exterminator immediately These
the access points and install a dehumidifier to technicians can kill all the termites and check for
make the area less attractive to pests. other harmful species, like carpenter ants.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Pestproofing Your House 427

Fixing
Concrete Walkways
8
Once a concrete sidewalk or driveway starts to fail, you can bet that it's
just the beginning of the problem. By fixing the crack or chip-out right
away you can preserve the concrete.
CONCRETE CERTAINLY HAS AN ATTITUDE. It's hard, stubborn, and uncompromising; it

won't bend even when a little give-and-take would make everything easier. Fortunately, it's
more than just tough. It's also durable, long lasting, and faithful.
Everybody thinks concrete is so tough that they can do anything to it and it will be fine. Up
to a point this is true. There isn't too much that puny humans can do, in the normal course
of life, to cause any real damage. But the weather is something else, especially the kind of
weather that gets below freezing in the winter. The freeze and thaw cycle creates little cracks
that soon become bigger cracks as water seeps in, freezes and expands. If repairs aren't made
when the problems are small, the problems will never be small again.

CONCRETE CRACKS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Paintbrush
filler
Cold chisels
Cracks in concrete typically must be made worse before they are made better. By
chiseling the top of the crack so the walls slope down and away from the crack,
you create a bell shape that will hold the repair material in place. You can fill
cracks up to about 1;2" in. wide x '/2" deep with a liquid polymer crack filler avail-
able at lumberyards and home centers. Fill the cracks just slightly below the sur-
rounding surface for the best appearance. Then cover the cracks for two days so Scrap lumber
for form board
they aren't damaged by foot traffic. Deeper cracks should first be filled to within
'/2" of the top with foam backer rods. These should be compressed in the crack
with a screwdriver or a putty knife and then covered with crack filler. If the crack
is over '/2" wide, fill the gap in a couple of applications so everything has time to
cure properly. Breaks along the edge of the walk are the hardest to repair, but DIFFICULTY LEVEL
with a little effort, you can help that walk maintain its edge just a bit longer.
EASY MODERATE
FOAM BACKER RODS-Tube-shaped sections of foam for filling wide holes before
caulking is applied. Commonly available in various lengths and in diameters from This project can be completed in
%" up to 2 in. one to two hours per four foot square
section of sidewalk.
SPALLED CONCRETE-Concrete surface damage that appears as a flaking away of
the top layer, usually less than 1;'6" deep.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Fixing Concrete Walkways 429

1 Drive a form board next to the sidewalk and 2 Just prior to applying the patch, brush some
undercut the broken section with a cold chisel and clean water onto the broken area to help the
hammer. This will create a modest keyway that patch bond better.
will give the patch something extra to grip.
CONCRETE REPAIR PRODUCTS

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ｾ｣ＮｵｲｬＡｐｔＭＬ＠ _ _..,
C ONCRETE PATCHING materials contain additives

and reinforcement to accomplish specific tasks.
Shop carefully at your building center to make sure
3 Use a small mortar trowel to apply the mor-
tar patch. Be sure to force the patch to the bottom
you buy the best product for your repair.
of the hole and feather the edges so the patch
blends in well with the surrounding surfaces.
4 To reduce the chance of the edge breaking 5 Lightly brush the surface of the patch with a
again, round it off using an edging tool. Gently stiff broom. This creates better traction for bad
move the tool over the patch and try to match the weather conditions. When you're done, cover the
edge troweling on the rest of the walk. patch with a plastic tarp for 6 or 7 days.
HOW TO FIX A CONCRETE CRACK
2 Squeeze crack filler in the crack, stopping

1 Remove any dust and debris from cracks with just below the surface of the walk. This protects
a wire brush, vacuum cleaner or a compressor the cracks without running the risk of smearing
with a hose-mounted spray nozzle. the filler across the surrounding surfaces.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Fixing Concrete Walkways 431

Repairing
Asphalt Driveways
9
Asphalt is a relatively forgiving paving material. When popouts or cracks

occur, repairing them is basically a matter of dumping in fresh material and
picking a way to compress it.
THE TWO MOST POPULAR HARD SURFACE DRIVEWAY MATERIALS ARE ASPHALT
AND CON C RET E. Both are used, almost interchangeably, throughout the country in cold
and hot climates. But there are some basic differences. Concrete generally costs more to
install and asphalt generally costs more to maintain as the years go by. And, concrete doesn't
always perform well in cold areas. It's susceptible to damage from the freeze-and-thaw cycle
and it can be damaged by exposure to road salt. Asphalt, on the other hand, doesn't always
perform well in hot climates. It absorbs a lot of heat from the sun and tends to stay soft dur-
ing very hot periods. And, of course, when the surface is soft, it can wear more quickly.
It's a good thing that concrete doesn't need much routine maintenance because doing just
about anything to concrete is difficult. Asphalt, however, is very easy to maintain and repair.
And there are plenty of products in local home centers to help anyone do the work. In many
ways, fixing an asphalt driveway is a lot like repainting a house that is in bad shape. Most of
the work deals with surface preparation. Applying a new coat of driveway sealer is only the
last of many steps.

DRIVEWAY SEALER 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Shop vac
Wire
brush
Scrap
plywood
- Maul
2x stir
sti.k
Some driveway sealers are made of coal tar, others are asphalt emulsions. Coal
tar is compatible with asphalt paving and has some durability advantages over
asphalt because it has ultra-violet stabilizers in the mix. These keep the black
color of the sealer from fading quickly. Coal tar also resists damage from gas
and oil spills better than asphalt. Both types are sold in 5 gal. buckets that sell
for about $20 and cover between 300 and 400 sq. ft. of surface area.
Application brush
The trick with applying sealers is to do it in warm weather (nothing below
50 degrees F.). Also, you should apply the sealer in thinner, rather than thicker,
coats. If you build up too thick a coat, the sealer can peel. The container
directions on the product you buy will indicate the proper coverage rate. DIFFICULTY LEVEL
ASPHALT-A combination of bitumens-that are by-products of coal tar distillation-

and aggregates-that are a mixture of sand and gravel. Installed when hot.
ASPHALT SEALER-A bituminous coating, sometimes including sand as a fine aggre- This project can be completed in
gate, that is used to seal the surface of asphalt pavement. eight to twelve hours.
ASPHALT-A paste-like combination of bitumens, very fine aggregate and addi-

tives to keep the mixture malleable.
ASPHALT CRACK FILLER-Comes in different formulations. One is a rubberized liq-

uid emulsion that stays flexible permanently.
COLD-PATCH ASPHALT MIX-A combination of asphalt and synthetic polymers that

keep the asphalt workable when it's cool.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Repairing Asphalt Driveways 433

ＮＭｌｉｊＬｾ＠ｾｉｊＭＢｑ＠ REPA I RAN AS ｾ＠ I:f A LtD RI WAY
2 Carefully inspect the asphalt surface for any

oil and grease stains. Then remove them with
1 Begin the maintenance routine by removing driveway cleaner or household detergent. Scrub
any grass, weeds and other vegetation from the sur- the cleaner into the surface with a soft brush and
face and sides of the driveway. Use a long-handle rinse the area clean with a garden hose. Repeat
ice scraper or a square-tip shovel. until the stain is gone. If using driveway cleaner,
wear the recommended safety equipment.
X-SECTION OF ASPHALT DRIVEWAY
typical asphalt driveway is formed

A by pouring and compressing a 3 Once the stains are removed, thoroughly rinse
layer of hot asphalt over a subbase of
the entire driveway with a garden hose and nozzle.
compacted gravel.
The goal is to wash away any debris and to remove
the dust and dirt from the surface cracks.

5 Place asphalt patching compound in the
holes with a small trowel. Overfill the hole so the
4 Repair the small cracks first. Chip out any

patch material is about Yz" higher than the sur-
rounding asphalt surface.
loose debris with a cold chisel and hammer. Then
clean out all debris with a wire brush. Remove all
the dust with a shop vacuum. A crevice tool on
the end of the hose will do the best job.
6 Compact the patch material with a small 7 Finish the patch by covering it with a piece of
piece of 2 x 4 . Tamp the board up and down with 2 x 6 and striking it with a hammer or mallet.
your hand, or strike the board with a hammer. Work back and forth across the board to smooth
Keep working until you can't compress the patch out the entire patch and make it flush to the sur-
any more. rounding surface.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Repairing Asphalt Driveways 435

ｾＢＭｬＡＭｌｾｏ＠ REPA I RAN AS EHA L.____...ＢＭｾ＠
9 Prepare larger potholes by undercutting the

8 On narrower patches, the compound can be edges with a cold chisel and a hammer. Then,
remove all the debris and fill the hole with cold-
smoothed with a small trowel. Just move the tool
across the surrounding surface and then over the patch asphalt mix. Working directly from the bag,
patch. This should flatten the patch. Finish up by ftll the hole about 1 in. higher than the surround-
compressing the compound by pushing it down ing surface. Then compact it with a 2X4, as before.
with the trowel.
10 One great way to compress cold-patch 11 Once the hole patching is done, fill the
asphalt is to cover the patch with a piece of ply- routine cracks (less than \14" wide) with asphalt
wood. Then, drive your car onto the plywood and crack filler. This material comes in a caulk tube ,
stop when one tire is centered on the panel. Wait which makes it very easy to apply. Just clean the
a few minutes, then move the car back and forth a crack with a wire brush and a vacuum, then
few times. squeeze the ftller into the crack.

12 After the crack filler has cured for about
lO or 15 minutes, smooth it out with a putty knife
as you force the filler down into the crack. If this
13 Driveway sealer should always be mixed
thoroughly before use. Take a 2X stir stick that's
creates small depressions, fill these with a second
about 30 in. long and stir the sealer until it has a
application of filler.
uniform consistency. Pour out enough to cover
a strip across the driveway that's about 3-ft. or
4-ft. wide.
14 Spread the sealer with the squeegee side of 15 Flip the squeegee over to the brush side
the application brush. Try to keep this coat as uni- and smooth out the lap marks and other irregular-
form as possible. Work the sealer into the small ities that were left from the application coat. Work
cracks and pull it gendy over the big patches. at right angles to the first pass.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Repairing Asphalt Driveways 437

Fixing Broken
Glass Panes
Replacing a broken glass pane isn't nearly as common an occurrence today

as it was a decade or two ago. But it's still a great skill to have fo r owners
of older homes.
FOR PEOPLE WHO LIVE IN NEW, WELL·MADE HOUSES THE WINDOWS FROM THE
GROUND TO THE RIDGE ARE BOUND TO BE DOUBLE-GLAZED UNITS THAT PER-
FORM WITH COMMENDABLE ENERGY EFFICIENCY. This is a good thing, mostly. But
these hi-tech units can break just like their older single-pane siblings, and you just can't fix
double-glazed sashes yourself. People who live in older houses have it better. Their single
pane sashes and storm windows are easy and inexpensive to repair. If you have just one pane
to replace, most people can finish up the job in a couple of hours. Usually the hardest part of
this chore is working off a ladder. You'll need one to remove the storm windows and to fix a
regular sash because the repair needs to be made on the outside of the window.

GLASS PANES 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Glazier's
points
,'\-.' .
\
Glass pane
Razor blade
Each glass pane in a typical wood sash is held in place on the inside by the wood paint scraper
that forms the sash and on the outside by glazing compound. This compound is a
soft, caulk-like material when it's installed. But it hardens over time to form a
durable seal that keeps the glass in the frame and the water out. If you wiggle
Putty Needlenose
the pieces of broken glass in-and-out, this will loosen the compound and you can knife pliers
pull the shards out. Measure the space, go to the hardware store for a $2 piece
of glass, pop it in and glaze.
WINDOW SASH-Any framework that holds window glazing, as in a double-hung DIFFICULTY LEVEL
window with two sashes {that is, two wood frames that each hold one or multiple
pieces of glass}.
GLAZIER'S POINTS-Smail triangular pieces of steel with one side bent up at a
90-degree angle. Made for holding glass panes within wood frames, these points
are pushed into place with a putty knife or flat blade screwdriver.
MODERATE

two to three hours.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Fixing Broken Glass Panes 439

ｂｒｏｋｅｎｾｾ＠ __
2 Once a section of compound is soft, remove

1 Wearing heavy leather gloves, remove the it using a putty knife. Work carefully to avoid
broken pieces of glass. Then, soften the old glaz- gouging the wood frame. If a section is difficult to
ing compound using a heat gun or a hair dryer. scrape clean, reheat it with the heat gun. Soft
Don't hold the heat gun too long in one place compound is always easy to remove.
because it can be hot enough to scorch the wood.
3 Once the wood opening is scraped clean, seal

the wood with a coat of linseed oil or primer. If
the wood isn't sealed, the dry surface will draw 4 Apply a thin bed of glazing compound to the
too much moisture from the glazing compound wood frame opening and smooth it in place with
and reduce its effectiveness. your thumb.

5 Press the new pane into the opening, making
6 Drive glazier's points into the wood frame to
sure to achieve a tight seal with the compound on
all sides. Wiggle the pane from side-to-side and hold the pane in place. Use the tip of a putty knife
up-and-down until the pane is seated. There will to slide the point against the surface of the glass.
be some squeeze-out, but do not press all the Install at least 2 points of each side of the pane.
compound out.
8 Allow the glaZing compound at least one

week to dry completely. Then prime and paint it to
7 Make a rope of compound (about \.2" diame- match the rest of the sash. Be sure to spread the
ter) by rolling it between your hands. Then press paint over the joint between the compound and
it against the pane and the wood frame. Smooth it the glass. This will seal the joint completely. When
in place by drawing a putty knife, held at a 45- the paint is dry, scrape off the extra with a razor
degree angle, across its surface. Scrape off excess. blade paint scraper.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Fixing Broken Glass Panes 441

Repairing
Concrete Steps
A little concrete patching material and some know-how will keep your
concrete steps looking brand new.
BUILDERS USE A LOT OF DIFFERENT MATERIALS FOR ENTRY STEPS. Many familiar
varieties of stone and brick are common choices. Wood is also a favorite , especially for rus-
tic buildings or those that are blessed with a large front porch. But when you look at all the
houses and all the entry doors, including those at the back and side of the house, concrete
has to be the top choice, by far. That's because it's cheap, durable, and long lasting.
The biggest problem involved in making a successful concrete step repair is binding the patch
material to the existing material. Strong bonds can be created with the use of a bonding
agent, usually part of the patching mix. The second bonding problem is that the repair sur-
face must be free of all dust, dirt, grease and debris. Unless it is thoroughly cleaned, the patch
won't hold for long.

CONCRETE CRACK REPAIR 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
masonry
blade
Wire
Paintbrush brush
Form boards
Small cracks (about % in. wide and deep) can be filled with concrete crack filler.
Just brush out the crack and squeeze in the filler, stopping just a bit below the
top of the crack. For wider cracks, one good approach is to fill the crack with
mortar. Breaks along the edges and corners are repaired with a form board (or DIFFICULTY LEVEL
boards) nailed to the side of the steps. Then the edges of the break are under-
cut with a cold chisel and the void filled with a concrete patch mix. For big
breaks, it's a good idea to drive masonry nails into the middle of the void to act
as reinforcement for the patch. Make sure to drive these nails deep enough so
their heads won't sit above the finished surface.
two to five hours.
CONCRETE CRACK FILLER-A liquid polymer substance that dries into a flexible,
watertight seal.
BONDING AGENT-An adhesive chemical substance that's applied between
a concrete substrate and a mortar patching mix.
MORTAR PATCHING MIX-A mixture of cement, sand, water and admixtures like
bonding agents and plasticizers to make the material more workable.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Repairing Concrete Steps 443

.........-...........ｾＭｊｉＧＭＢｏ＠ REPAl R BRO
2 Spread a heavy layer of fortified patching com-

pound on the surfaces to be joined, then press the
1 Retrieve the broken corner, then clean broken piece into position . Lean a heavy brick or
it and the mating surface with a wire brush. block against the repair until the patching com-
Apply latex bonding agent to both surfaces. pound sets (about 30 minutes). Cover the repair
If you do not have the broken piece, you can with plastic and protect it from traffic for at least
rebuild the corner with patching compound. one week.
HOW TO REBUILD WITH PATCHING COMPOUND
1 Clean chipped concrete with a 2 Mix patching compound with 3 Tape scrap lumber pieces
wire brush. Brush the patch area latex bonding agent, as directed by around the patch as a form. Coat
with latex bonding agent. the manufacturer. Apply the mixture the insides with vegetable oil or
to the patch area, then smooth the commercial release agent so the
surfaces and round the edges, as nec- patch won't adhere to the wood.
essary, using a flexible knife or trowel. Remove the wood when the patch is
firm. Cover with plastic and protect
from traffic for at least one week.
sw.-...
2 Cut a form board the same height as the step

riser. Coat one side of the board with vegetable oil
or commercial release agent to prevent it from
1 Make a cut in the stair tread just outside the bonding with the repair, then press it against the
riser of the damaged step, and brace it in position
damaged area, using a circular saw with a mason-
ry-curring blade. Make the cut so it angles toward with heavy blocks. Make sure the top of the form
the back of the step. Make a horizontal cut on the is flush with the top of the step tread.
riser below the damaged area, then chisel out the
area in between the two cuts.
4 Smooth the concrete with a float, and let it set

3 Apply latex bonding agent to the repair area for a few minutes. Round over the front edge of
with a clean paint brush, wait until the bonding the nose with an edger. Use a trowel to slice off the
agent is tacky (no more than 30 minutes), then sides of the patch, so it is flush with the side of the
press a stiff mixmre of quick-setting cement into steps. Cover the repair with plastic and wait a week
the damaged area with a trowel. before allowing traffic on the repaired section.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Repairing Concrete Steps 445

Repairing Siding
Siding is like the skin of your house and, like the skin on your body, some-
times it gets a scratch or bruise or cut. Here we'll show you how to band-
age the damage.
EXPLAINING HOW TO MAKE BASIC SIDING REPAIRS IS HARDER THAN IT SOUNDS.

That's because there are a lot of different siding types and a lot of variation in the way the
same siding is installed. We show here the repair basics for the most common sidings: clap-
board, tongue-and-groove, wood shingles, board-and-batten and vinyl or metal. The chance
that your siding is installed exactly the way you see here is slight, but it's a good place to start.
Clapboard siding is bevel-lap siding boards made of redwood or cedar or pine. This siding can
last for well over 100 years, if it's properly maintained.
Tongue-and-groove siding creates a very tight exterior seal and, if the paint and caulk are well
maintained, it is virtually trouble free. But it is difficult and time-consuming to install.
Wood shingles are typically made of cedar or cyprus and may be either split or sawn. This
type of siding may be painted or allowed to weather to a silvery gray.
Vinyl and aluminum siding are designed, installed and repaired in much the same way. Both
products expand and contract a great deal with changes in temperature.
Board-and-batten, in this day and age, normally refers to wood panels (textured plywood)
with thin strips of lumber installed to cover the seams between panels.

EXTERIOR WALLS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Power miter saw
Interior
vapor
barrier
Hammer
Aviator J! ｾ＠
snips ｾＮ＠
Fasteners
Mini hacksaw
Hacksaw blade
----,----------------------
Siding material
fur patching
Siding
(clapboard)
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
EASY MODERATE

two to three hours, for simple repairs.
Exterior moisture
barrier (building
paper or house·
wrap)
Regardless of what type of siding you have, the inside of your exterior walls will
look something like this. When you're working on siding, it's important that you
identify the locations of wall studs and that you avoid penetrating or tearing
the vapor barriers on either side of the wall.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Repairing Siding 447

AI R ｗｏｄｾｄｃｾｵＮＺｒｾ＠ __.
1 Locate and mark framing members inside the

wall (use a stud finder) so you can draw cutting
lines around the damage that fall over studs.
Starting at the bottom, cut clapboards at the cut-
ting lines with a keyhole saw or a wallboard saw.
For access, slip wood shims under the clapboard
2 Cut replacement clapboards to fit, using a
miter saw or power miter saw.
above the one you're cutting. NOTE: The repair
will look better if you stagger cutting lines so they
don't fall on the same stud.
3 Nail the replacement clapboards in the patch-

ing area (you can use tape to hold them in place if 4 Caulk the gaps between clapboards and ftll
you like). Follow the same nailing pattern used for nailholes with exterior putty or caulk. Prime and
the boards around it. Set nail heads with a nailset. paint the repaired section to match.

2 Remove the damaged panel (or make vertical
cuts with a circular saw underneath the batten
locations if any of the battens are only decora-
1 With a flat pry bar, remove the battens on tive). Cut a replacement panel from matching
each side of the damaged area. To protect the material, sized to leave a 1;'8 " gap between the orig-
painted surfaces, cut along the joints between the inal panels and the new patch. Nail panel in place,
boards and battens with a utility knife before caulk the repair seams and reinstall the battens.
removing the battens. Prime and paint to match.
HOW TO REPAIR TONGUE & GROOVE
1 To repair tongue-and-groove siding, first

mark both ends of the damage and rip-cut the
board down the middle, from end to end, with a
circular saw or trim saw. Then use the trim saw to
cut along the vertical lines. Finish all cuts with a
keyhole saw. Split the damaged board with a pry 2 Cut the replacement board to fit, then cut off
bar or a wide chisel. Then pull the pieces apart the backside of the groove so the board can clear
and out of the hole. If the building paper below the tongue on the course below. Prime the board,
the damaged section was cut or torn, repair it. let it dry, then nail it into place. Paint to match.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Repairing Siding 449

Repairing Stucco
/'
/. I
1/1
y •
..
" • .. <
J
[.
,
- \
/' 1"
"
Small stucco problems rarely turn into major problems-if you catch them
when they are still small. A caulk product designed for masonry will fix
small stucco woes. The patched area can then be covered with touch-up
paint so that it blends in,
STUCCO IS ONE OF THE MOST DURABLE SIDING MATERIALS USED ON HOMES.
But damp climates can be especially hard on these surfaces, and if left unattended, small
cracks can lead to some pretty big problems. A few years of water damage can cause large
sections of stucco to loosen and even fall away from your house,
Fortunately, these problems aren't all that hard to repair, even for beginners. And keeping
stucco in good condition is one of the easiest maintenance tasks of all. All you really need to
do is inspect your stucco once each year and fill any small cracks you find-which won't hap-
pen that often. But let's say you forgot, and your stucco has a more major problem. Don't
panic; just keep reading.

STUCCO 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Insulation
Stud Stud
Building Metal lath

paper
Finish Coat..
Your original stucco walls were made from three layers of cement-based stucco
laid over a metal fabric, called lathe, which is nailed over the building paper and
plywood or plank sheathing covering the skeleton of the walls. Today, though, you
can just use a single premixed stucco product, sold in plastic buckets, to make
repairs to stucco.
BROWN COAT-The second of three stucco layers, the brown coat uses the same DIFFICULTY LEVEL
formulation as the scratch coat, but is applied in a smooth layer.
SCRATCH COAT -The first of three layers of stucco, it earns its name because it is
scored with grooves while still wet so that the following coats will adhere to it.
FINISH COAT-The top layer of stucco, which is often tinted and textured to pro-
vide a decorative finish.
EASY MODERATE
METAL LATH-This porous steel fabric is nailed to wall sheathing to provide the
base for the first, or scratch coat of stucco. This project can be completed in
two to four days.
SQUARE-END TROWEL-a straight, smooth metal tool used to apply stucco and
other masonry substances.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Repairing Stucco 451

ｓｔｕｃｾ＠ __________ｾ＠
1 Remove loose material from the repair area, 2 Use a broad putty knife or small trowel to
using a wire brush. If the underlying metal lath apply premixed stucco repair compound to the
has any rust, brush this away, too. repair area, with enough depth to slightly overfill
the depression.
3 Smooth out the repair area with your knife

or trowel, taking care to make the borders of the
repair blend smoothly into the surrounding wall 4 If you have any bigger patch areas, chip away
surface. Use a whisk broom or trowel to duplicate the loose stucco, cut away the loose metal lath,
the texture of the wall. then cut and attach new lath to the wall sheathing.

6 Apply a base, or scratch coat of premixed
5 If your large patch area includes a corner, cut stucco compound over the lath, with a thickness
of about Ya". Score closely spaced horizontal lines
and install a piece of metal edging along the corner
of the wall. Sheet metal is sharp, so make sure you in the wet surface, using a scratching tool or a
wear gloves and eye protection when cutting it. nail. Let the stucco dry for a couple of days.
I
I , \\
I II,
I
8 Apply the final coat of stucco, then texture it

to match the surrounding wall, using a whisk
broom or trowel. After the stucco dries, you can
7 Apply the second coat of stucco patch com- either paint the patch area to match the surround-
pound, to withing X" of the original surface. Let ing wall, or paint the entire wall for nearly invisi-
the patch dry for a day or two. ble blend.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Repairing Stucco 453

Renewing
Wood Decks
Weathered wood has true romantic appeal, but when the wood is the only
thing between your feet and the ground it ought to be in pristine shape.
Refinishing a wood deck is vital to that cause (and you'll need to learn
how, since you'll be doing it practically every year).
WOOD DECKS CAN BE GREAT THINGS. They give you a place to relax and entertain out-
side, while maintaining one of the big advantages of staying in: a flat stable floor. In the last
30 years, decks have overtaken the old fashioned patio. One reason for this is that decks are
made of wood, not masonry, so the design possibilities are almost limitless. Masonry prod-
ucts, whether concrete, brick, or natural stone, are much harder to work with and are more
expensive. Wood decks do wear out and must be maintained to last a long time and look
good while doing it.
If you have a small deck (anything under 200 sq. ft.), refinishing is a pretty easy job. But on
larger decks, refinishing can develop into quite a chore. The thing to remember, when you've
been scrubbing off the old finish for hours, is that replacing a deck can eat up $10,000 near-
ly as fast as a college bursar. So it pays to take care of things before the deck damage gets out
of control.

DECK FINISHING 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Long-nap
roller
Refinishing a deck involves three separate steps. The first is to remove the old
finish. The second is to wash away all the dirt, mildew, and other residues. And
the third is to reseal the surface with a new finish. There are lots of products on Hammer Spray
nozzle Scrub brush
the market for cleaning decks. The trick is to get the product that's right for your
situation. Anything that just says "deck cleaner" is not what's needed. These
help lift off dirt and grime but won't do much to remove an old finish. If your
deck is covered with just a transparent sealer or a light stain, then a product DIFFICULTY LEVEL
called a "stain/sealer remover" is what you need. If you have a heavy, solid-color
stain, you'll want something stronger. These are sometimes called simply" deck
finish strippers," and are made to lift off everything from the surface.

DRILLIDRIVER-A cordless drill outfitted with an adjustable clutch that lets the user one to two days depending on size
of deck.
preset the amount of force used to drive any fastener. Once the drill reaches the
preset torque limit, the clutch prevents the chuck from rotating and thus the bit
from turning.
LAG SCREWS-A steel screw with a hexagonal head and a thin body with a coarse
thread. Used for drawing heavy boards together without using a standard bolt.
nut and washers.
CUPPED BOARD-A board that has a convex deviation (a bump) across its width,
not its length or thickness.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Renewing Wood Decks 455

2 Let the stripper set for as long as the container
1 Apply a heavy coat of deck stripper to the directions recommend (usually around 15 minutes).
deck boards. Usually a garden sprayer works for Then brush it vigorously with a stiff brisde deck
this job. But you can also use a paint roller with a brush. Try to avoid splattering the stripper on near-
long nap roller to spread the stripper. by plants. the siding. trim or windows and doors.
3 Rinse off the stripper using a garden hose

4 Next comes the deck cleaner. which
with a spray attachment or use a pressure washer.
Be sure to rinse any adjacent surfaces that might is often sold in a concentrated form. Mix it
have been splattered with stripper. thoroughly in a large bucket. according to the
container's directions.

6 Protect surrounding surfaces with masking
tape and paper, then start brushing on the sealer.
Use the brush just for hard to reach areas. Use a
5 Using a stiff deck brush, spread the deck roller on everything else.
cleaner over the boards and scrub until the wood
brightens. Usually; this happens almost immediately.
Keep scrubbing until the surface looks new.
eep in mind, when working with the brush,

K that it tends to hold less sealer than a paint
roller. So, to ensure even coverage, load up
the brush with extra sealer and apply it in a
7 Apply sealer to the open areas with a roller
that has a ｾＢＭｮ｡ｰ＠ roller cover. As you move, press
heavier coat. the roller down forcefully so the sealer squeezes
between the boards and covers their edges.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Renewing Wood Decks 457

Replacing Damaged
Roof Shingles
A little bit of localized damage doesn't mean it's time to reroof your whole
house. Replacing an old shingle or two can buy you many more years of
coverage, but only if the roof doesn't show widespread wear.
THE WORLD OF RESIDENTIAL ROOFING IS PRETTY VARIED. Asphalt, fiberglass-rein-

forced asphalt, rolled asphalt, wood shingles, wood shakes, slate, concrete, terra cotta tiles,
steel, and rubber are just some of the current roofing choices. Why is it with all this choice
what you see practically everywhere is asphalt shingles, row after row, all clean-cut, well
behaved and just a little bit dull? Well, cost is one thing. Standard three-tab asphalt shingles
are priced at about $80 per square (100 square feet of coverage), which is a lot cheaper than
other options. Asphalt is also reliable and durable. Twenty-year lifespans are not uncommon.
If you have asphalt shingles on your roof and a small section is damaged, you're in luck. The
repair is easy and quick, if only a couple of shingles are involved, so you can do it yourself.
There are only two significant obstacles to the job. The first is working from a ladder. If this
makes you uncomfortable, hire the job done. The second is that the repair involves a small
amount of plastic roof cement. No matter how much you use, this material will get all over
you and every tool you touch.

ROOF SAFETY 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Flat pry bar

or nail puller
Roofing nails
Hammer
Shingles that
match the existing
roof color
If your roof pitch is 6:12 (6 in. of vertical rise for every 12 in . of horizontal run) or
less, then you should be able to work on the roof comfortably and safely. But if
your roof is steeper than 6:12, consider getting a contractor. A fall, from even a
one-story roof, is a serious matter. To measure a slope, hold a carpenter's square DIFFICULTY LEVEL
against the roofline, with the top arm horizontal (check it with a level). Position
the square so it intersects the roof at the 12" mark. On the vertical arm, measure
down from the top to the point of intersection to find the rise.
EASY MODERATE
PROBLEMS YOU'LL NEED TO SOLVE
three to five hours.
y ou can't repair a roof if you don't have some replacement shingles.
Fortunately many builders save the shingles that were left over from the
original installation. These will be a bit brighter than the ones on the roof that
have been faded by the sun. But they' ll be close enough. If you don't have any
original shingles and can't buy a good match at your local lumberyard, your
best strategy is to harvest repair shingles from a less noticeable section of the
roof. This means you'll have to repair two roof sections instead of one, but
you'll end up with a better looking job.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS - Replacing Damaged Roof Shingles 459

ＮＭｌｊＬｾｉｾｏｾｒ＠ ___PLACE DAMAGED ROOE ｓｉＺｦｾｇｌｅ＠
2 To remove a damaged shingle, grip its bot-

tom edge (with gloves on) and wiggle it back and
1 To flatten a buckled shingle, squeeze some forth as you pull down. This will pull it free from
plastic roof cement under the buckle then weigh the roofing nails that hold it in place.
down the shingle with a brick or two for a couple
of hours.
3 Remove any exposed nails with a flat pry bar

4 Nail the new shingles in place, starting at the
lowest course and working up. The new shingle
or a nail puller. If the roofing felt (the layer below will not be as faded as the old ones surrounding it.
the shingles) is damaged, repair the patch with But over time the difference between the two will
some plastic roof cement. be less noticeable.
5 Before installing the last shingle, rum it over
6 Carefully slide the last shingle into place. The
and apply a bead of plastic roof cement to the
back top edge. Keep this bead about 1 in. below plastic roof cement will smear across the under-
the top edge. side of the shingle, which will improve the bond
with the shingle below. Press the repair shingle
flat, then lift up the shingle above and drive nails
in the typical way
7 If the damaged shingle falls in a roof valley,

take it out and clean any old cement from the val- 8 Cut the repair shingle to size and slide it into
ley flashing. Then apply rwo beads of plastic roof position. Press it firmly into the valley cement to
cement along the edge of the valley. achieve the best bond.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Replacing Damaged Roof Shingles 461

Installing
Locksets & Deadbolts
You never know when you'll need to replace a door lockset or dead bolt,
but there are many situations when you'll be glad you know how to do it.
HOME SECURITY IS NOT SO MUCH A MATTER OF TENACIOUS CRIME PREVENTION

AS IT IS A QUESTION OF PEACE OF MIND. If you have been burglarized, you're bound
to feel vulnerable. So we all have an interest in keeping what's outside, outside. There are
many different approaches to accomplishing this. Some cost a lot of money, and some don't
cost much at all. The first (and most expensive) is having a whole-house security system
installed that notifies the police if there's any trouble. But not everyone needs or wants some-
thing so involved. A more passive approach serves their needs. This generally means a com-
bination of motion-activated floodlights and quality door locks. When someone carefully
approaches a back door at night, there are few things as alarming as having a bright light sud-
denly flash in their eyes. And there's nothing quite as discouraging as trying to break through
a door with a deadbolt lock when you want to go unnoticed. If you only care to do one of
these security building jobs, pick installing better locks. They're on the job every day, all day
and all night, whether the power is on or off.

LOCKsETs & DEAD BOLTS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
LOCKSETS-A good door Utility knife
deserves a good lockset.

Inexpensive locksets are
available for $10 to $1 S
and high quality ones cost
Screw-
around $40. Locksets for drivers
interior doors are called

passage locks and are not
suitable for exterior doors.
DEADBOLTS-A good dead bolt
-
should cost around $25. There are
several styles to choose from that
differ in ways other than finish. C utout pattern
Some are keyed on the outside and
have a thumblatch on the interior Strikebolts
side. If you have a glass sidelight or
door panel, think about buying a
model that's keyed on both the
exterior and interior so an intruder Bolt plates Thumblatch
can't break your glass and reach in
to unlock the dead bolt.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
DOOR JAMB-Boards that define a door opening. The door hinges are hung on one
jamb board and the strike plates for any locks are installed on the opposite jamb.
TEMPLATE-A pattern that establishes the proper layout for a procedure. In this
case, a piece of paper taped to a door to indicate where clearance holes should EASY MODERATE
be drilled . This project can be completed in
LOCKSET-A complete locking system including knobs, locking mechanism, lock· two to three hours.
ing bolt, and decorative roses. Used on entry doors and interior doors where
locking is desired .
DEADBOLT-A heavy·duty locking bolt that goes deep into the door jamb to pre·
vent tampering.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Installing Locksets & Deadbolts 463

........--...L"-._______ｾｬｗｉ｟｟ｉｾ｟Ｇ｟Ｑ＠ N STALL A L0 C KS ｅｔＬｾ＠ _ _ _ _.....;.
2 Remove the flange next. These are usually

snapped in place over the lock mechanism under-
1 Remove the old lockset. The knob on the neath. To remove one, just pry it off with a screw-
driver pushed into a slot designed for it. Other
inside of the door is usually held in place with a
small clip. This is located on the side of the sleeve flanges are held by small spring clips. By pushing
that extends from the knob to the flange on the down on the clip with a screwdriver, the flange
door surface. To release this clip, just push it into can easily be pulled off with your fingers.
the flange with a screwdriver or an awl. Then pull
off the knob.
3 Once the flange is off, the lock mechanism

will be accessible. The two sides of the lock are 4 With both sides of the lock removed, the
joined together by two screws. Remove these lock bolt can be taken out. Remove the screws
screws and take the lock components out of the that hold the bolt plate to the edge of the door.
lockset hole in the door. Then pull out the bolt mechanism.

Bolt plate
6 While holding one side of the lock against

5 Install th e new bolt assembly and make sure the door, maneuver the other side of the lock so
that the screws in the bolt plate are driven tightly the screws fall in the slots made for them. Once
into the door. Separate the lock halves and slide the screw heads have cleared the slots, tighten the
them together with the door and bolt assembly screws so both halves of the lock are tight against
sandwiched between. the door. Install the new knobs and new strike plate.
HOW TO INSTALL A DEADBOLT
TEMPLATE TIP
any doors
M sold today
come with holes for
the lockset
predrilled. Some
also are predrilled
for a dead bolt, but
very often you'll
need to drill holes
for the actual dead-
bolt you purchase. To assist in this, manufacturers
provide a template that you tape to the door for
reference. Following the manufacturer's instruc-
tions, tape the hole template to the door (make
sure you've oriented the template to correspond
to the actual thickness of your door) and mark the
1 Determine the size of holesaw you need by
checking the installation instructions that came
center point of each hole, including the bolt hole
with the lock. Then chuck this tool into a drill and
in the edge of the door. The deadbolt is usually
located 7" or 8" above the lockset.
bore the hole. Stop boring when the tip of the
drill bit, at the center of the holesaw, breaks
through the other side.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' In s t a lling Locksets & De a dbolt s 465
ＮＭｌｉＡｉＺｦＭＡＮＺｑｾ｟ｉＧＭＢｑＢＭｉ＠ NSTAt LL L0 CKS EIS & DEAD Q LIS
3 Drill the bolt hole through the edge of the

2 Go to the other side of the door and slide the door, using a spade bit or forstner bit. Make sure
to keep the bit level so the bolt hole will enter the
pilot bit of the hole saw into the hole and cut out
the rest of the waste material. If you try to cut lock hole at the proper point.
through the door in a Single pass, you risk tearing
the steel covering (on steel-clad doors) as the hole-
saw teeth break through the surface.
5 Once you're satisfied with the fit, press the

4 Push the bolt assembly into the bolt hole so bolt plate into its mortise and attach it by driving
the bolt plate is flat on the edge of the door. Trace in the two plate screws. Slide both sides of the
around the plate with a utility knife. Remove the lock into the bolt mechanism (inset) and attach
mechanism and cut a ｾＢＭ､･ｰ＠ mortise in the edge them by driving the screws that hold the two parts
of the door with a sharp chisel (see next page). together. Make sure these screws are tight.

MORTISING TECHNIQUE
I nstall ing hardware plates re quire s using a wood

chisel to create a mortise for the hardware.
Deepen the outline for the mortise to 1111 " with

a wood chisel (try to find a ch isel the sa me width
as the mortise). With the bevele d face of the chisel
6 Extend the lock bolt and color its end with
lipstick, a grease pencil, or a crayon. Then retract
bla de facing into the mortise, rap the ha ndle with
the bolt, close the door and extend the bolt so its
a mallet.
end hits the jamb. This will yield the precise loca-
Chise l a se ries of 1111" -dee p para lle l cuts about tion of the bolt hole that's needed on the jamb.
%" a part. Drill a hole (usually 1 \.-2" deep) for the bolt with a
spade bit (see installation instructions for actual
Position the chisel beve l-side down at a bout a
45-deg re e a ngle. Strike with a mall et to chise l out
hole size requirements).
the waste. Smooth the mortise bottom.
7 Close the door and test the deadbolt to make 8 Finish up by installing the strike plate on the
sure the bolt fits into the bolt hole in the jamb. If jamb. Some of these plates are oversized like the
not, enlarge the hole slightly. Once the bolt fits, one above. But most look more like standard lock-
center the strike plate over the bolt hole and trace set strike plates. Both types, however, feature long
it with a utility knife. Cut a mortise for the strike screws that are driven through the jamb and deep
plate using a sharp chisel. into the wall studs behind.
O UTDOOR PRO J ECTS ' In sta llin g loc k s e t s & Dea db o lt s 467
Tuning Up
Garage Doors
A garage door that's well maintained and a working garage door opener
are modern conveniences that are easy to take for granted.
IS THIS A GREAT COUNTRY OR WHAT? YOU'RE DRIVING HOME LATE AT NIGHT,

IT'S POURING OUTSIDE, AND YOU'RE FREEZING BECAUSE YOU'VE GOT THE FLU.
Then, you turn into your driveway, punch a little button, and your garage door opens, a light
comes on, you pull in, and you're HOME . You didn't have to get drenched, or lift a door that
felt like heavy metal, or scream at the heavens for making you so miserable. You danced away
from all of this, and that is a good thing.
Unfortunately, over time, many good things become bad things, especially if they aren't well-
maintained. And an overhead garage door is no exception. To keep everything running
smoothly requires effort on three fronts: the door, the opener, and the electronic safety sen-
sors that prevent the door from closing on cars, pets or people.

GARAGE DOORS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
MineraI
1->-,,--.
spirits Graphite spray
lubricant
Ga
Wall console
Level
Screw
terminals
mallet
Structural
The reason a heavy garage door is
F"'''''- " supportJ
Toweling
easy to lift is because of the
Sens r
mechanical advantage created by a eye
system of pulleys, rollers and coun-

Sensor
terbalance springs. When these moul)tlng
br ,c et
parts are broken, worn, or poorly
adjusted, lifting a door can be very
difficult on you or on your door
opener. Door tracks that are out of

Open-end
alignment can also contribute to Lightweight oil wrenches
the problem . Lock problems are
common in garage doors: either the cylinder is hard to operate or the
lock bar doesn't fit in its track opening .

DIFFICULTY LEVEL
Most door openers have a chain drive that may require tightening or
lubrication. And sensors located on both sides of the door can be easily
knocked out of alignment.

TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW four to eight hours.
CHAIN-DRIVE OPENER-An electric opener that lifts and lowers a garage door with
a chain that's driven by a motor mounted sprocket.
SCREW·DRIVE OPENER-An electric opener that lifts and lowers a garage door with
a continuous screw that's driven by a gear in the motor.
CLOSING FORCE SENSITIVITY-This is a measurement of how quickly a garage door

opener will stop and reverse the door's travel when an obstruction is sensed or hit.
OUTDOOR PRO J ECTS· Tuning Up Garage Doors 469

ＮＭｌＢＭＧｾｾＮＬｑＢＭＧｔＭＢＧｕ＠ N E-UP A G A RA G E DOD R
2 Remove clogged or damaged rollers from the

door by backing off the nuts that hold the roller
1 Begin the tune-up by lubricating the door brackets. The roller will come with the bracket
tracks, pulleys and rollers. Use a lightweight oil, when the bracket is pulled free.
not grease, for this job. The grease catches too
much dust and dirt.
3 Mineral spirits and kerosene are good sol- 4 If the rollers are making a lot of noise as
vents for cleaning roller bearings. Let the bearing they move over the tracks, the tracks are probably
sit for a half-hour in the solvent. Then brush away out of alignment. To fix this, check the tracks for
the grime build-up with an old paint brush or plumb. If they are out of plumb the track mount-
toothbrush. ing brackets must be adjusted.

5 To adjust out-of-plumb tracks, loosen all the
6 It's often easier to adjust the brackets by par-
tially loosening the bolts and tapping the track
track mounting brackets (usually 3 or 4 per track)
with a soft-faced mallet. Once the track is plumb,
and push the brackets into alignment.
tighten all the bolts.
7 Sometimes the door lock bar opens sluggish-

ly because the rerum spring has lost its tension.
The only way to fix this is to replace the spring. 8 If a latch needs lubrication, use graphite in
One end is attached to the body of the lock; the powder or liquid form. Don't use oil because it
other end hooks onto the lock bar. attracts dust that will clog the lock even more.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Tuning Up Garage Doors 471

ＮＭｌｊＬＩｾ＠ｾｉＮｊＭｉＬＭｏ＠ J U N E-U P A G
..
9 Sometimes the lock bar won't lock the door

because it won't slide into its opening on the door 10 Worn or broken weatherstripping on the
track. To fix this, loosen the guide bracket that bottom edge of the door can let in a lot of cold air
holds the lock bar and move it up or down until and stiff breezes. Check to see if this strip is
the bar hits the opening. cracked, broken, or has holes along its edges. If so,
remove the old strip and pull any nails left behind.
11 Measure the width of your garage door,

then buy a piece of weatherstripping to match. 12 If the chain on your garage door opener is
These strips are standard lumber yard and home sagging more than )2" below the bottom rail, it
center items. Sometimes they are sold in kit form, can make a lot of noise and cause drive sprocket
with fasteners included. If not, just nail the strip- wear. Tighten the chain according to the direc-
ping in place with galvanized roofing nails. tions in the owner's manual.

14 Test the door's closing force sensitivity
and make adjustments at the opener's motor case
if needed. Because both the sensitivity and the
adjustment mechanism vary greatly between
13 On openers with a drive screw instead of opener models, you'll have to rely on your
a chain, lubricate the entire length of the screw owner's manual for guidance. If you don't have
with lightweight oil. Do not use grease. the owner's manual, you can usually download
one from the manufacturer's website.
16 Make sure that the sensors are talking to
15 Check for proper alignment on the safety

the opener properly. Start to close the door, then
put your hand down between the two sensors. If
sensors near the floor. They should be pointing
the door stops immediately and reverses direction,
directly at one another and their lenses should be
it's working properly. If it's not, make the adjust-
clean of any dirt and grease.
ment recommended in the owner's manual. If that
doesn't do the trick, call a professional door installer
and don't use the door until it passes this test.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Tuning Up Garage Doors 473

Installing
House Gutters
18
Installing a snap-together vinyl gutter system is a manageable task for

most do-it-yourselfers. Before you purchase new gutters, create a detailed
plan and cost estimate. Include all the necessary parts, not just the gutter
and drain pipe sections; they make up only part of the total system. Test-fit
all the pieces on the ground before you begin the actual installation.
GUTTERS PREVENT RUNOFF FROM YOUR ROOF THAT CAN DAMAGE FOUNDATION
PLANTINGS. THEY HELP KEEP WATER OUT OF YOUR BASEMENT, AND THEY REDI-
RECT WATER AWAY FROM ENTRYWAYS. In short, there are plenty of good reasons to
install gutters on a house that doesn't have a gutter system, or to replace a failing gutter sys-
tem. However, be aware that installing new gutters in cold climates can be a real problem.
(As the old saying goes: You can't live with them and you can't live without them.) They have
a bad rep because they cause so many ice dams. Without gutters, this water would just run
off the edge of the roof. So consider all the pluses and minuses carefully before investing in
a gutter system. If you decide to go for it, here's one tip: When calculating the costs, don't
be fooled by the relatively low per-foot cost for a run of gutter or downspouts, since it's the
fittings and connectors that make up most of the cost of DIY gutter installations.

GUTTERS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Downspout
outlet
ESTIMATING GUTTER PARTS
GUITER SECTIONS: Measure total length of run: Downspout

add 15% for waste. Sold in 10-ft. lengths. section
GUTTER HANGERS: One for every 2 ft. of gutter.
INSIDE/OUTSIDE CORNERS: One per corner with
no outlet.
CONNECTORS: Two per corner; one per 10ft.
of gutter.
END CAPS (right or left); One per end. measure
Plumb bob
DOWNSPOUT OUTLETS; One for every 3S ft. of gutter.
DOWNSPOUT ELBOWS: Three per downspout.
DRAIN PIPE: One pipe per downspout outlet.
Measure gutter height, and add 5 ft. for each pipe
(for splash block outlet and waste), Sold in 10-ft.
lengths.
(Connectors
DRAIN PIPE HANGERS; Two per drain pipe. Hacksaw (can cut either not shown)
metal or vinyl)
Steel, aluminum and vinyl gutter materials are available at a number of different
outlets, including lumber yards, home centers and some hardware stores. To
make a shopping list, first measure the length of gutter you need. Then calcu-
late the amount of downspout required (generally sold in 10-ft. lengths.) A

good rule of thumb for 5-in. gutters says that any gutter run less than 40 ft.
only needs one downspout. For longer ones, a downspout should be installed at
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
both ends of the run. After you total up the gutters and downspouts, list the fit-
tings. Each downspout requires an outlet fitting, and both ends of the complet-
ed gutter need an end cap. Any joints need a splice fitting, and any inside or
outside corners need inside or outside corner fittings. Two elbows are required
to make the transition between the outlet fitting and its downspout. And two
fastener brackets are needed for each section of downspout. You'll also need
hanging brackets for the gutters. Buy enough to install one every 2 ft. two to four days.
GUTTER PITCH-This is the amount that a gutter slopes from its high to low points,
usually expressed as difference in height per 10ft. of run.
GUTTER RUN-The gutter sections and fittings that fall between gutter end caps.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS - Installing House Gutters 475

L L V I N ｙｌｾＢＭＬ＠ ...............ｾ＠ _ _------,,
1 Mark a point at the high end of each gutter

run, 1" from the top of the fascia. Snap chalk lines
that slope toward downspouts. For runs longer 2 Install downspout outlets near the ends of
than 35 ft., mark a slope from a high point in the gutter runs (at least one outlet for every 35 ft. of
center toward downspouts at each end. run). The tops of the outlets should be flush with
the slope line, and they should align with end caps
on the corners of the house, where drain pipes
will be attached.
3 Following the slope line, attach hangers or

support clips for hangers for a complete run. 4 Following the slope line, attach outside and
Attach them to the fascia at 24" intervals, using inside corners at all corner locations that don't
deck screws. have end caps.

5 Use a hacksaw to cut gutter sections to fit
between outlets and corners. Attach the end caps
and connect the gutter sections to the outlets. Cut 6 Join the gutter sections together, using con-
and test-fit gutter sections to fit between outlets, nectors. Attach gutter hangers to the gutter (for
allowing for expansion gaps. models with support clips mounted on the fascia ).
Hang the gutters, connecting them to the outlets.
8 Cut a piece of drain pipe to fit between the

7 Cut a section of drain pipe to fit between elbow at the top of the wall and the end of the
two downspout elbows. One elbow should fit over drain pipe run, staying at least 12" above the
the tail of the downspout outlet and the other ground. Attach an elbow, and secure the pipe to
should fit against the wall. Assemble the parts, slip the wall with a drain pipe hanger. Add accessories,
the top elbow onto the outlet, and secure the such as splash blocks, to help channel water away
other to the siding with a drain pipe hanger. from the house (inset).
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Installing House Gutters 477

Insta Iii ng
Landscape Lighting
19
Low-voltage lights are safe to install and use to beautify your outdoor
spaces. Unlike solar landscape lights, they are powered by good old reli-
able electricity, so they really can stay on all night if you wish them to.
SOME LANDSCAPE LIGHTING MANUFACTURERS PITCH THEIR SYSTEMS AS SECURITY

PRO D U C T s.
If you keep the outside of your house well lit, the reasoning goes, the thieves
will turn elsewhere to find easier pickings. It's possible that the companies are right about
this. But probably the stronger arguments are for improved safety and appearance.
It can't be surprising that adding some light to the dark makes going places safer. This idea
has been around for a long time-a very long time. But the notion that you can improve the
look of your house, by adding some nightlights, is more recent. In fact, decorating with exte-
rior lights became widespread only in the last 25 years, when low-voltage landscape lighting
showed up. The beauty of low-voltage lighting is that it can be installed by anyone without
the risk of being shocked.
Low-voltage lights are powered by a transformer that steps l20-volt current down to a safe
12 volts. Choosing the location for the transformer is an important part of planning. You
have two options: inside the house and outside the house. The outside installation is a little
easier, but the inside one is a little better, especially from a security standpoint. Also take
some time to review your light placement. Once you are happy with the plan, drive a small
stake where you want each light to go.

LOW-VOLTAGE LIGHT KITS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Hammer
Landscape lighting can be ordered in kit form or as individual pieces. Kits

include a few light heads, some wire and a transformer that changes standard
house current into low-voltage power. If you want half a dozen lights along the Hacksaw
front walk, for example, then the kit is a good idea. It's cheaper, very easy to
install and will last a long time unless the lights get run over by a lawn mower.
Predictably, the individual parts approach offers a much wider range of light
heads, a selection of transformers that can handle bigger jobs, and all the wire
and other accessories anyone could need. Of course, this choice costs more
money. A typical starter kit retails for about $150, while a collection of
20 expensive light heads, a big transformer and lots of wire can gobble up
$1000 or more.
DIFFICULTY LEVEl
LOW-VOLTAGE-Usually about 12 volts of current, instead of the standard 120

volts, used to power devices like outdoor landscape lights. EASY MODERATE
TRANSFORMER-A smaller version of the gray pods that are mounted at the top This project can be completed in
of electrical power poles. Changes current of one voltage to another. In this case, eight to twelve hours.
from the standard (and dangerous) 120-volt electrical service to a much safer
12-volt service.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Installing Landscape Lighting 479

ＮＭｌｉｊＬｾｾｉｏ＠ INSTALL ｌａｎｄｓｃｾｅ＠ LlG ｉｎｇｾ＠
1 Install your transformer or transformers. If

you are installing one in a garage, mount it on a
wall within 24" of the GFCI receptacle and at
2 Drill a hole through the wall or rim joist for
the low-voltage cable and any sensors to pass
least 12" off the floor. If you are using an out-
through (inset). If a circuit begins in a high-traffic
door receptacle on a wall or a post, mount the
area, it's a good idea to protect the cable by run-
transformer on the same post or an adjacent post
ning it through a short piece of PVC pipe or con-
at least 12" off the ground and not more than 24"
duit and then into the shallow trench.
inches from the receptacle. Do not use an exten-
sion cord.
PLANNING TIP
• •
ake a diagram of your yard and mark
M the location of new fixtures. Note the 3 Attach the end of the low-voltage wire to the
wattages of the fixtures and use the diagram terminals on the transformer. Make sure that both
to select a transformer and plan the circuits. strands of wire are held tightly by their terminal
screws.

5 Many low-voltage light fixtures are modular,
4 Transformers usually have a simple mecha- consisting of a spiked base, a riser tube and a lamp.
nism that allows you to set times for the lights to On these units, feed the wires and the wire connec-
come ON and go OFF automatically. Set these tor from the light section down through the riser
times before hanging the transformer. tube and into the base.
6 Take apart the connector box and insert the 7 Feed the wire connector back into the light
ends of the fixture wire and the low voltage base and attach it according to directions that
landscape cable into it. Puncture the wire ends came with the lamp. In this model, all that was
with the connector box leads. Reassemble the required was pushing the connector into a locking
connector box. slot in the base.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Installing Landscape Lighting 481

ＮＭｌｊＬｾｾｉｾｑｾｉ＠ｾｓｔ＠ ALL LA N ｄｓｃａｾ＠ E LI G I I ｾ＠ G'"----I
9 Layout the lights, with the wires attached, in

the pattern you have chosen. Then cut the sod
between fixtures with a spade. Push the blade
about 5 in. deep and pry open a seam by rocking
the blade back and forth.
8 After the bulb is installed, assemble the fix-

ture parts that cover it, including the lens cap and
reflector.
10 Gently force the cable into the slot formed 11 Firmly push the light into the slot in the
by the spade; don't tear the wire insulation. A sod. It the lamp doesn't seat properly, pull it out
paint stick (or a cedar shingle) is a good tool for and cut another slot at a right angle to the first
this job. Push the wire to the bottom of the slot. and try again.

12 Once the lamp is stabilized, tuck any extra
w ire into the slot using the paint stick. If you have a
lot of extra wire, you can fold it and push the excess
to the bottom of the slot. No part of the wire should
be exposed when you are done with the job.
FIXTURE TIPS:
Specialty lights can cost a lot To install a modified light on Many different specialty lights
more than the standard plas- a deck, bore a wire-clear- are available for use on a wood
tic spike-base lamps. Because ance hole through a deck deck. This model mounts
of this, many people modify board. Then feed the low- directly on the surface and the
the cheaper units to serve voltage wire through this wires feed through an access
other purposes. To do this, hole and attach the base to hole under the light. Other
first cut off the spike-base the deck with screws. The lights that are thinner, but
with a hacksaw. same technique can be used mount the same way, are
to install modified units on designed for the underside of
planters or railings. stair treads. These light up the
stairs and reduce the chance of
people stumbling in the dark.
OUTDOOR PRO J ECT S ' In s t a ll i ng La nd s c a p e Light i ng 483

Pressure Washing
a House
20
Pressure washers can be rented or you can buy your own light-duty model for around $100.
Washing your siding is just one of the many useful chores a pressure washer can perform.
SELF-SERVICE CAR WASHES ARE A GREAT IDEA. THEY LET YOU WASH YOUR
CAR THE WAY YOU WANT TO WASH IT, AND THEY LEAVE YOU ALONE. If you
could fit your house into a self-serve car wash, you might never need a pressure wash-
er of your own. That is, until you think a little. What about washing the car at home,
getting off the caked-on grass from the bottom of the mower, blowing away the
stains on the garage floor, banishing the dirt from your backyard deck, and prevailing
over the mildew on all that plastic outdoor furniture? A pressure washer makes all
these jobs easier and quicker than other approaches. And, it does a wonderful job of
washing your house.

PRESSURE WASHERS 101 TOOLS & SUPPLIES
YOU NEED
Pressure washer
with detergent
siphon tube
. . . . .IlF=G1 ］ｉｾ＠ - _ ＭｾＭ - - Impact
- - PSI:
- -3X - - -
ｉＭｾＮｪ＠
2 ft .
ｾ］ｾｃ］ｾ］ｌＭ - - - - - - -Impact - :ｾ＠ 2X

- - PSI
ｾ＠ --------r-;;,;: ; ' ','

4 ft.
Degreaser
There are two ways to adjust solution
clean ing power using t he

pressure washer. You can
adjust the distance (above)
that you hold the nozzle Rotating
scrub brush
from the surface you are
Spray Pattern: 40·
cleaning. The second way is Detergent
siphon tube
to change the spray pattern Scrub brush
(left) . Some pressure wash-

ers also allow you to adust
the pressure regulator knob
Spray Pattern: 25°
on the engine or water
pump. This enables you to DIFFICULTY LEVEL
fine-tune the water pressure
without altering the distance
Spray Pattern : 0 ° or spray pattern.
BUYING A PRESSURE WASHER This project can be completed in

one to three days.
can find a very good pressure washer for as little as $100, but it won't
Y OU
be a 3000 psi machine that you could use to spruce up the Sears Tower.
Instead, it will be an electric model that delivers about 1500 psi and about 2
gallons per minute (gpm) of flow. Multiplying the pressure (psi) and water
flow (gpm) ratings yields a rating a figure called the cleaning power (CP) for
each model. A machine with a CP rating of 3000 will do everything you want
around the house without the risk of injury from puncture wounds that are
possible with the higher pressure machines.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS' Pressure Washing a House 485

W TO PRESSURE WASH A tiQUSE
----1
1 If using detergents, cover the plants around

your house with tarps or plastic sheeting. Leave 2 You have the option to add cleaning deter-
the cover on only when you are working. If it gent to the machine's water flow by installing a
stays on for long periods during hot weather, the standard siphon tube between the machine and a
plants can die from exposure to too much heat. container of detergent.
TIP FOR REMOVING STAINS
tubborn mildew and rust stains usually

S need hand scrubbing with a weak
bleach solution. Use a sponge or brush to
clean the area and rinse the area thor-
oughly. Be sure to wear protective gloves.
3 If the Siding is very dirty, you may have to

use a rotating scrub brush accessory to clean the
surface. The brush can use either clean water or
dispense a soapy solution. This is a bit like pre-
cleaning stains on clothing before laundering.

4 To prevent streaks on house siding, start pres-
5 To rinse the side, start at the top and work
sure washing on the bottom and work up. Use the
sam e approach whether you're using plain water down. The clean water will flush away any dirt
or soapy water. and soap residue and leave behind a clean surface.
CLEANING OTHER OUTDOOR SURFACES
pressure washer also works on surfaces Concrete steps, walks and driveways respond
A like wood decks. Sometimes a quick spray- very well to pressure washing. Because the
spray tip can be held so close to the surface
ing with plain water will do the trick. But more
typically, the deck has to be cleaned chemically without causing any damage, usually water
and then rinsed with plain water. alone will do the trick. But oil stains on a garage
floor will require a detergent wash and possibly
a prewash with a degreaser solution.
OUTDOOR PROJECTS· Pressure Washing a House 487

American Standard Hunter Douglas Price Pfister
American Standard and Porcher 800-265-1363 Kitchen and bathroom faucets
brand lavatories, toilets, shower sys- www.hunterdouglas.com 800-732-8238 (US.)
tems, bathtubs, kitchen sinks, 800-340-7608 (Canada)
faucets In-Sink-Erator www.pricepfister.com
800-442-1902 Garbage disposers and hot water
www.americanstandard-us.com dispensers Sterling Plumbing
800-558-5700 Sterling brand tub and shower sur-
Armstrong World Industries www.insinkerator.com rounds, shower doors, toilets, kitchen
717-397-0611 sinks and related kitchen and
www.armstrong.com International Association of bathoom fixtures
Plumbing and Mechanical Officials 888-783-7546
Clopay Garage Doors 20001 E. Walnut Drive South www.sterlingplumbing.com
800-225-6729 Walnut, CA 91789-2825
www.clopaydoor.com www.lapmo.org The Institute of Plumbing
and Heating Engineering
Crane Plumbing International Conference of 64 Station Lane, Hornchurch
Crane, Fiat, Sanymetal, Showerite Building Officials Essex, RM12 6NB, England
and Universal Rundle toilets and 5360 Workman Mill Rd. www.worldplumbing.org
plumbing products Wh ittier, CA 90601-2298
www.craneplumbing.com 800-284-4406 Toto USA Inc.
Toilets, faucets, lavatories and other
Delta Faucet Co. Kohler Plumbing bathroom fixtures
Kitchen and bathroom faucets Kohler brand kitchen and bathroom 888-295-8134
800-345-3358 fixtures WWW.totousa.com
www.deltafaucet.com 800-456-4537
www.kohler.com
Electric Eel
Power augers for sale or rent
(937) 323-4644
LASCO Bathware
Tub and shower products
PHOTO
www.electriceel.com 800-945-2726
www.lascobathware.com
CREDITS
Eljer, Inc.
Eljer, Titan and Endurocast toilets, Moen p. 242 (lower left)
tubs, lavatories, faucets Sinks, faucets and related acces- © Inside/Beateworks.com,
800-423-5537 sories for kitchen and bath (lower right) photo courtesy of
(972) 560-2000 800-289-6636 Armstrong Flooring
www.eljer.com www.moen.com
p. 320 photo courtesy of Armstrong
Elkay Cos. National Kitchen & Bath Flooring
Sinks and faucets Association
(630) 572-3192 (U.S) 800-843-6522 p. 336 © George Mayer I
800-661-1795 (Canada) www.nkba.com www.istock.com
www.elkayusa.com
Plumbing and Drainage Institute p. 351 photos courtesy of Hunter
Fluidmaster 45 Bristol Drive Douglas
Fill valves, flush valves, toilet repair South Easton, MA 02375
parts www.pdionline.org P. 424 photo Rebecca Grabill I
www.fluidmaster.com www.istock.com
Plumbing Heating Cooling
Grohe Information Bureau P. 468 photo courtesy of Clopay
Kitchen and bathroom faucets 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza
(630) 582-7711 (U.S.) Chicago, IL 60654
(905) 271-2929 (Canada)
www.groheamerica.com

. _'-'.____ｾｌ｟ＧＬＮｉ＠ CEQ U YA LEN J 5
Metric Equivalents
Inches (in.) ｾＴ＠ X, :0, X, X :4 % % :0 % J( l4 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 36 39A
Feet (it) 1 3 3X2
Yards (yd.) 1 Hh
Millimeters
(mm)
OAO 0.79 1 1.59 3.18 6.35 9.53 10 12.7 15.9 19.1 22.2 25A 50.8 76.2 101.6 127 152 178 203 229 254 279 305 914 1,000
Centimeters
0.95 1 1.27 1.59 1.91 2.22 2.54 5.08 7.62 10.16 12.7 15.2 17.8 20.3 22.9 25A 27.9 30.5 91A 100
(em)
Meters (m) .30 .91 1.00
Converting Measurements
TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY: TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Miles Kilometers 1.609 Kilometers Miles 0.62 1
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0. 155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4 Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.06 1
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283 Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765 Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.3 1
Pints (U.S.) Liters 0.473 (Imp. 0.568) Liters Pints (US) 2. 11 4 (Imp. 1.76)
Quarts (US) Liters 0.946 (Imp. 1.136) Liters Quarts (US) 1.057 (Imp 0.88)
Gallons (US) Liters 3.785 (Imp. 4.546) Liters Gallons (US) 0.264 (Imp. 0.22)
Ounces Grams 28.4 Grams Ounces 0.035
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
Tons Metric tons 0.907 Metric tons Tons
FAHRENHEIT CELSIUS
Converting Temperatures 55' 25'

50' 20'
Convert degrees Fahrenheit (F) to degrees Celsius (C) by fol- 45' 15'
40' 10'
lowing this simple formula: Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit 35' 5'
temperature reading. Then, mulitply that number by 5/9. For 30' )..-- FREEZING--.J 0'
example, n'F - 32 ｾ＠ 45. 45 x 5/9 ｾ＠ 25'C. 25' _5'
20' -10'
To convert degrees Celsius to degrees Fahrenheit, multiply the 15' _15'
10' _20'
Celsius temperature reading by 9/5. Then, add 32. For example, _25'
25'C x 9/5 ｾ＠ 45. 45 + 32 ｾ＠ n'F. 5' _30'
0'
RESOURCES 489
Adhesive - Bonding agent used to Cementboard - Underlayment used for under ceramic tile and resilient flooring
adhere the floor covering to the underlay- ceramic tile and some hardwood installa- where floor height is a concern.
ment. Adhesives are also available for tions. Cementboard is the best underlay-
Field tile - Tile that's not part of a design
installing a floor covering on nonporous ment in areas likely to get wet.
or border.
surfaces, such as sheet vinyl.
Chalk line - The line left by chalk, usually
Finish nail- A nail with a small, dimpled
American National Standards Institute blue or red, after the chalk string is pulled
head, used for fastening wood trim and
(ANSI) - A standards-making organization tight between two points and snapped
other detailed work.
that rates tile for water permeability. against the floor.
Flagstone - Quarried stone cut into slabs
Baseboard - Strip of wood molding, Coefficient of friction - A measurement
usually less than 3" thick, used for outdoor
available in various designs and thickness- of a tile's slip resistance. Tiles with high
floors.
es, applied at the bottom of the wall to numbers are more slip resistant.
cover the gap between the floor covering Floating floor - Wood or laminate floor
Common nail - A heavy-shaft nail used
and the wall. covering that rests on a thin foam padding
primarily for framing work, available from
and is not fastened or bonded to the sub-
Baseboard shoe - A narrow piece of 2d to bOd.
floor or underlayment.
molding, often quarter round, attached to
Coping saw - A handsaw with a flexible
the bottom of baseboard to hide gaps Floor board - A strip or plank in a wood
blade and fine teeth for cutting intricate
between the floor covering and baseboa rd floor.
curves and bends in wood.
and to add a decorative edge.
Floor tile - Any type of tile designated
Cripple stud - A short stud that is normally
Baseboard tile - Baseboard -shaped tile for use on floors.
located above or below window and door
used instead of wood baseboards. Used in
openings. Floor-warming systems - A system of
conjunction with tile floors.
heating elements installed directly under
Crosscut - Cutting a piece of wood per-
Base-shoe molding - A strip of molding the floor covering. Floor-warming systems
pendicular to the wood grain.
nailed to baseboard at the floor to conceal provide supplemental radiant heat to warm
gaps and add a decorative edge. Cut-pile carpet - Individual carpet fibe rs up a floor.
woven tightly together. The fibe rs are col-
Berber carpet - Looped pile running in Framing member - A common term for a
ored on the outside, but not on the inside.
parallel lines. Berber carpet has the same single structural element of a construction
color throughout the fibers. Door casing - Wood molding and trim framework, such as a stud, joist, truss, or
placed around a door opening to give it a beam.
Bevel cut - An angled cut through the
finished look .
width or thickness of a board or other Full-, half-, quarter-sheet - Referring to
piece of stock. Drip edge - A piece of molding placed the size of a sheet good relative to a 4 x 8-
over any exterior opening so that water ft. sheet. A half-sheet is 4 x 4-ft., a quarter-
Blindnail - Driving nails at an angle
runs or drips away from the opening. sheet is 2 x 4-ft.
through the tongues of hardwood flooring
so the next piece of flooring will cover the Dry-fit - Installing tile without mortar to Full-spread vinyl - Sheet vinyl with a felt-
nail. test the layout. paper backing that is secured to the
underlayment with adhesive.
Box nail- A nail similar in appearance to Dry mix - Packaged mix (usually sold in
a common nail, but with a thinner shaft. bags) that can be combined with water to GFCI receptacle - A receptacle outfitted
Used for lighter construction and on mate- form mortar. with a ground -fault circuit-interrupter. Also
rials that split easily. used on some extension cords to reduce
Embossing leveler - A mortarlike sub-
the possibility of electric shock when oper-
Brick molding - Used between the exteri- stance used to prepare resilient flooring or
ating an appliance or power tool.
or surface of a house and a window or ceramic tile for use as an underlayment.
doorframe. Glue laminate - A type of engineered
Endnailing - Joining two boards at a
lumber specifically created for headers or
Building code - A set of building regula- right angle by driving nails through the
support beams, in which layers of wood
tions and ordinances regulating the way a face of one board into the end of another.
are bonded to form a solid unit.
house can be built or remodeled. Most
Engineered flooring - Flooring that's
building codes are controlled by a local Grout - A dry powder, usually cement-
manufactured to look like solid hardwood,
municipality. based, that is mixed with water and
but is easier to install, less expensive, and
pressed into the joints between tiles. Grout
Building permit - Permit obtained from more resistant to wear. Engineered floo ring
also comes with latex or acrylic additive for
the local building department allowing you is available in strips or planks.
greater adhesion and impermeability.
to remodel your home.
Expansion joint - A joint in a tile layout
Header - A piece of lumber used as a
Casing - Any trim around a window, door, filled with a flexible material, such as caulk,
support beam over a doorway or window
or other opening. instead of grout. The expansion joint
opening.
allows the tile to shift without cracking.
Casing nail- Similar to a finishing nail,
Isolation membrane - A fiexible material
but with a slightly larger dimpled head for Facenailing - Joining two parallel boards
installed in sheets or troweled onto an unsta-
better holding power. by driving nails through the faces of both
ble or damaged base floor or subfloor before
boards.
Cat's paw - A type of prying tool used installing tile. Isolation membrane prevents
primarily in demolition; the tool is good for Fiber/cementboard underlayment - A shifts in the base from damaging the tile
extracting nails. thin, high-density underlayment used above.

Jack stud - A wall-framing member used Plywood - A common underlayment for Stud - A vertical framing member used in
to ｳｵｾｰｯｲｴ＠ a header in a doorway or window resilient and ceramic tile installations. the framework of a house or building .
opening.
Portland cement - A combination of silica, Subfloor - The surface, usually made of
Jamb - The top and side pieces that lime, iron, and alumina that has been heated, plywood, attached to the floor joists.
make up the finished frame of a door cooled, and pulverized to form a fine powder
Tack cloth - Lint free cloth, usually
opening. from which mortar products are made.
cheese cloth, used to clean floors and wipe
Joists - The framing members that sup- PVC - Acronym for polyvinyl chloride. away dust. Tack cloth is treated with a resin
port the floor. PVC is a rigid plastic material that is highly to make it sticky.
resistant to heat and chemicals.
King studs - The first studs on either side Tackless strips - Strips of wood nailed
of a framed opening to span from the sole Reciprocating saw - A type of power saw around the perimeter of a room. The teeth
plate to the top plate. that cuts with a back and forth action of the strips hold carpet in place.
through wood, metal, and plastic.
Latex patching compound - Compound Threshold - The area in a doorway where
used to fill cracks and chips in old under- Reference lines - Lines marked on the two floor coverings meet.
layment and to cover screw or nail heads subfloor to guide the placement of the
Toenailing - Joining two boards at a right
and seams in new underlayment. floor covering.
angle by driving nails at a 45° angle
Load-bearing wall- Any wall (interior or Rip - Cutting a piece of wood parallel to through the side of one board into the
exterior) that bears some of the structural the grain. face of another.
weight of a house . All exterior walls are
Rise - The height of a step in a stairway. Tongue-and-groove flooring - Wood or
load-bearing.
laminate floor coverings that have a
Rough opening - The opening of the
Locknailing - Strengthening a miter joint tongue and a groove in each individual
rough framing for a window or door.
in window or door casings by driving nails piece. The flooring is assembled by plac-
through the middle of the joint from the Run - The length of a step in a stairway. ing the tongue and groove joints together.
outer edge of the casing. This technique
Sealants - Product used to protect non- Top plate - A piece of dimensionallum-
also works well with picture frames.
and semi-vitreous tile from stains and ber that rests on top of the studs in a wall
Miter cut - An angle cut in the end of a water damage. Sealants are also used to and supports the ends of rafters.
piece of flooring or molding. protect grout.
Treated wood - Lumber that has been
Molding - Decorative stri ps of wood Sheet vinyl - Flooring material made impregnated with chemicals to make it
installed along walls and floors. from vinyl and other plastics in the form of resistant to pests and rot.
sheets that are 6 ft. or 12 ft. wide and
O.C. (on center) - The distance from the Underlayment - Material placed on top
approximately ;4 " thick.
center of one framing member to the center of the subfloor, such as plywood,
of the next. Shim - A thin wedge of wood used to fiber/cementboard, cementboard, and iso-
make slight adjustments in doors or win- lation membrane.
Partition wall - An interior, non-Ioadbear-
dows during installation.
ing wall. Vapor barrier - Plastic sheeting used as a
Sister joist - Dimensional lumber barrier to keep water from a concrete floor
Pennyweight - A measure used to indi-
attached alongside an existing joist to pro- from penetrating the floor covering
cate nail size and length, commonly shown
vide additional strength. installed over it.
as a lower case "d."
Soffits & chases - Boxes made with Wallboard - Also known as drywall; flat
Perimeter-bond vinyl - Sheet vinyl with a
dimensional lumber and plywood or wall- panels available in various sizes made of
PVC backing that is placed directly on
board to cover up existing mechanicals or gypsum covered with durable paper; Used
underlayment and secured by adhesives
other obstructions. for most interior wall and ceiling surfaces.
along the edges and seams.
Spacers - Plastic lugs inserted between
Planks - Wood or laminate flooring that is
tiles to help maintain uniform installation
4" or more wide.
during installation.
Platform framing - A type of framing Stain - Water-based or oil-based agent
construction in which the studs only span a
used to penetrate and change the color of
single story, and each floor acts as a plat-
a wood floor.
form to build and support the next higher
level. Most common framing method in Strip flooring - Wood flooring that has
modern home construction. multiple strips, usually three, fastened
together to form a single plank.
Plumb bob - A device consisting of a
pointed weight on the end of a string, Strips - Wood or laminate flooring that is
used to determine whether a surface is less than 4" wide.
exactly vertical or to transfer marks along a
STC (sound transmission class) - A rating
vertical plane.
system referring to how well sound is con -
Plunge cut - A cut that begins in the field tained within a room due to the construc-
of a board or piece of plywood by slowly tion. Norma l wall construction has a rating
pivoting the blade into the wood. of 32 STC.
GLOSSARY 491
B ceiling-mounted, removing, 92 pull-chain, replacing, 110-111
Ballasts, replacing, 103 fluorescent, replacing, 100- 105 push-button, replacing, 35
Blades of ceiling fans, wobbly, 108 hanging, replacing, 86-89 testing, 13 , 17
supporting weight of, 87, 88 timer, installing, 76-79
C testing for current, 13 wall, replacing, 64- 69
Ceiling fans, ftxing, 106- 111 track, installing, 90- 95 Switch locks, 97
Ceiling-mounted fixtures Light sockets, described, 23
installing, 80-85 Light switches T
installing wireless switches for, 47 adding wireless, 42-46 Tamper-resistant receptacles, 53 , 54-55
removing, 92 replacing, 64-69 Tape, 9
Chandeliers, replacing, 86-89 types of, 65 Terminal connectors, 15
Childprooftng receptacles, 52- 57 Line screws, 59 Testers / testing for current, 9, 13, 17
Circuit breakers Load screws, 59 Thermostats
described, 10 Low-voltage wires, overview of, 39 mercury, 41
turning off, 12 programmable
Circuits, understanding, 10-11 M installing, 38-41
Combination tool, 9 Main service panel, to, 12 overview of, 38- 39
Common wires, 71 Mercury thermostats, 41 Three-way switches, 68
Connectors / nuts, 9 Motion-sensing floodlights, installing, 96-99 described, 65
Cord kits, 9 Mounting straps, 49 installing, 42-46
Current sensors / testcrs, 9, 13 traveler wires on, 71, 74
N Timer switches, installing, 76- 79
D Needlenose pliers, 9, 24 Tool box, 9, 17
Dial-type timers, 76 Neutral current, 11 , 23 Tools
Dimmer switches, installing, 70- 75 basic, 8-9, 24
Doorbells, fixing, 30-33 p see also specific tools
Double-gang boxes and coverplates, 79 Phone jacks, repairing, 18- 21 Track lights, installing, 90- 95
Pliers, 9, 24 Traveler wires, 71, 74
E Plug covers (for receptacles), 53 , 57
Electrical boxes, replacing, 75 Power, ruming off, 12 U
Electrical circuit, determining capacity, 113 Power supply, 91 Upside down installations, 57
Electrical tape, 9 Programmable thermostats
Electricity, understanding, 10-11 installing, 38-41 W
overview of, 38- 39 Wall anchors, installing, 116
F Pull-chain switches Wall switches
Floodlights, installing motion-sensing, 96-99 fixing, 34- 37 removing, 44
Fluorescent light fIXtures, replacing, 100- 105 replacing, 110-111 replacing, 64-69
Fluorescent tubes, buying, 101, 104 testing, 17 testing, 13, 17
Four-way switches, 65, 68, 73 Push-button switches, replacing, 35 types of, 65
Fuses, 12 Push-button timers, 76 wireless, installing, 45-46
Push-in connections, 16 Wattage
G Push-in slot covers, 53, 56 of fluorescent tubes, 101, 104
GFCI (ground-fault circuit-interrupter) of incandescent bulbs, 85
receptacles R Weight of fIXtures, supporting, 87, 88
overview of, 58- 59 Raceway wiring, installing, 112- 121 Wire connections, making, 14- 16
ratings, 62 Receptacles Wire connectors / nuts, 9, 109
replacing, 60-63 buying, 9 Wireless light switches, 43
tamper resistant, 55 childprooftng, 52- 57 Wires
Grounding wires, 11 , 77 replacing bad, 48- 51 color coding of, 9, 19,67
replacing GFCI, 60- 63 connecting, 15, 16
H testing for current, 13 grounding, II, 77
Hot current, 11, 23 installing raceway system, 112- 121
S low-voltage, 39
L Safety coverplates, 53, 56 stripping, 14
Lamp cords Screw connectors, 15
kits for, 9 Screwdrivers, 9
testing, 17 Screws, types of, 59
Lamp sockets Screw terminals, 49
buying replacement, 9, 29 Sensors, 9
ftxing, 26-29 Single-pole switches, 65
Lamp switches, wireless, 47 Supplies, 8- 9, 53
Leads, 77 Switches
Light bulbs buying, 9
choosing wattage, 85 for ceiling fans, 111
removing broken, 22- 25 dimmer, installing, 70-75
Light fIXtures light, adding wireless, 42- 46
ceiling-mounted, installing, 80- 85 pull-chain, fIxing, 34-37

___...-....M BING ｉｾｄｅｘ＠
A Flexible supply lines, described, 223 removing and replacing trap components,
Aerators, 157, 160 Flow restrictors, described, 157 140- 141
Air, need for, 127 Freezing pipes, preventing, 142- 145 replacing pop-up stoppers in bathroom,
Augers 126- 127
cable, 193 G see also Faucets
closet, 173, 181 Galvanized iron pipes, 126 Sleeve and clamp pipe repairs, 220
electric drum, 194 Gas meter shutoff, 136 Slip-fit spouts, 202
hand, 185 Grinding chambers, described, 187 Sprayers (kitchen), 214-217
power, 192- 195 Grinding rings, described, 187 Stopper assemblies, 228- 23 1
stationary power, 195 Supplies, buying, 179
H Supply hose / tube, described, 163
B Home plumbing system, 124-127 Supply pipes, 126, 133
Basket strainers, described, 187, 191 Hot water, 126, 135- 137
Bathtubs. See Showers / tubs T
Burst pipes, repairing, 218- 221 Tailpieces, described, 187, 229
Impellers, described, 187 Teflon tape, described, 191, 197,205,211,
C Inspecting plumbing, 133 223, 229
Chemical drain cleaners, 186 ThaWing pipes, 143
Cleaning tools, described, 193 J Thermal envelopes, described, 143
Cleanout plugs, 141 J-bends, described, 139, 229 Threaded plastic joints, 141
Cleanouts, described, 193 Threaded spouts, 203
Clogged toilets, clearing, 170-173 L Toilets
Closet bolts, 233 Lavatories. See Faucets; Sinks; Toilets buying, 233
Closet elbows, described, 233 Lead pipes, 127 fixing flushing problems, 165, 180
Closet flanges, described, 233 Leaks, looking for, 133 replacing, 232- 237
Cold water, 126, 136- 137 replacing valves, 166-169
Compression fittings, described, 223 N resetting tank water level , 164
Controlled flushes, described, 171 Neoprene, 147 troubleshooting, 163
Copper pipes, 126, 127,221 Nipples, described, 197 unclogging, 170- 173
Copper stubs, described, 197 Tools, 128- 130
CPVC, described, 143 o see also specific tools
Outside diameter (0.0.) of pipes, 219 Traps
D described, 124, 139, 193
Disposal units, fixing, 189 P importance of, 127
Diverters for kitchen sprayers, repairing, Z16 PEX pipes, 126 location of, 138, 139
Diverters for showers / tubs, 201 Pipe joint compound, described, 191,205,211, purpose of, 138, 139
Drain bends, described, 139 223,229 solvent-welded, 141
Drain pipe connectors, described, 139 Pipes toilet, described, 171
Drains, 180-188, 192- 195 drain, 124, 127,133 Tubs. See Showers / tubs
Drain traps. See Traps plastic, 126, 127
Drain-waste-vent (DWV) system, 124, 127 preventing freezing of, 142- 145 V
repairing burst, 218- 221 Valves
F supply, 126, 133 repairing kitchen sprayer diverter, 216
Faucets thawing, 143 replaCing toilet, 166- 169
aerators, 157, 160 Plumber's putty described, 191,205,2 11 , shutoff, 124, 135, 136
buying, 225 223,229 stuck, 137
deck-mounted, 210- 213, 222- 227 Plumbing, evaluating, 132- 133 types of, 135, 147, 163, 171,201
fIXing ball, 152-153 Plungers, types of, 17J, 172 Vent pipes, purpose of, 127
fIXing cartridge, 147, 150- 151 Pop-up stoppers, replacing, 228- 231
fIXing compression, 148- 149 Pop-up wastes, described, 229 W
fIXing disc, 154-155 Washing machines, increasing water fill speed,
fIXing leaky tub and shower, 174- 179 R 156, 161
fIXing one-handle, 176- 177 Reducing bushing, described, 197 Waste water, 124
fIXing rwo- or three-handle, 178- 179 Replacing sprayers, 214-215, 217 Water, shutting off, 124, 134-13 7
installing one-piece bathroom, 210-213 Rigid plastic pipes, 126 Water meter location, 124
location of hot and cold, 126 Water pressure, adjusting, 156-157
overview of sink, 146- 147 S Water seals, described, 171
replacing bathroom, 204- 209 Showers / tubs Water supply
replacing kitchen, 222- 227 adding showers to tubs, 196-199 determining capacity of, 132
replacing widespread, 205- 209 cleaning showerheads, 158- 159 system described, 124, 126
types of, 149, 175 improving drain flow, 180-185 toilet tank level, 164
washedess, 149 replacing spouts, 200- 203 washing machine fill speed, 156, 161
Fixtures Shutting off water, 124, 134- 137 Water temperature, adjusting shower, 177
shutoff valves for, 136 Sinks Wax rings, 233, 234
trap locations for, 138, 139 adjusting drainage in bathroom, 180-185
water lines to, 124, 126 clearing kitchen drains, 186-188
see also specific [mllres fixing leaky strainers, 190-191
INDEX 493
A J from laminate floors, 246
Acid etching, 295, 296, 297 Joists from wood floors, 246
Adhesives cinching flooring to, 257 Splinters, repairing, 250-252
carpets and, 292 described, 240, 241, 255 Squeak-ender floor squeak eliminator, 255, 256
linoleum and, 289 locating, 261 Squeaky floors
removing gaps between floorboards &, 256 fIxing from above, 258- 261
B fIxing from below, 254- 257
Beams, 240 K Sticky-back vinyl tiles, 326
Bridging, 241 Knee kickers, 283, 284 Strap clamps, 313
Bubbles in resilient floors, fIXing, 263 Subfloors, 240, 255, 289
Buckled floors, 257, 314 L
Lacquer thinners, 309 T
C Laminate floors Tackless strips, 291
Carbide-tipped grout saws, 273 about, 242 Thinset mortar, 273
Carpeting cleaning, 246, 249 Tile spacers, 273
about, 243 installing, 312- 319 Tools. See specifk tools
cleaning, 247 problems with, 244
problems with, 244 replacing planks, 278- 281 U
removing, 290- 293 Linoleum floors, 243 Underlayment, 240, 255, 289
repairing damaged, 282- 285 Loose boards, reattaching, 261
repairing loose seams, 268- 271 Lubricants, 260 V
Ceramic tile floors Vinyl floors. See Resilient floors
about, 243 M
cleaning, 248 Metal lathes, 273 W
problems with, 245 Wall-to-wall carpet, 283
replacing, 272-277 N Wood floors
Click-floors, 313 Nails, countersinking, 261 about, 243
Concrete floors Nap (of carpet), 269 cleaning, 246
about, 242 fixing squeaks
problems with, 244 o from above, 258- 261
sealing, 294- 301 Oil, applying, 260 from below, 254-257
Cork floors, 243 painting, 308- 311
Curls in resilient floors, fIxing, 263 p problems with, 245
Cushion-backed, fully bonded carpeting, 285 Parquet tile floors refInishing, 302- 307
Cushion-backed carpeting, 283 about, 242 repairing splinters, 250- 252
Cut-pile carpet, 269 problems with, 245
Petimeter-bond sheet vinyl, 289 Z
o Primers, 309 Zip doors, 303
Dents, 261, 279
Drawbars, 313 R
Dry-backed resilient tiles, installing, 322- 324 Radiant floor heating systems, 241
Resilient floors
F about, 243
Feather sanding, 251, 303 cleaning, 249
Finishes, types of, 253, 303, 309 installing tiles, 320- 325
Floating floors, 279, 313 patching, 264-267
Floorboards, removing gaps between problems with, 245
joists &, 256 removing sheets, 286-289
Floors repairing, 262- 263
evaluating, 244- 246 using templates, 324
layers of, 240 Rows of pile, 269
reconditioning, 251
types of, 242- 243 S
Floor scrapers, 289 Safety
Full-spread sheet vinyls, 289 using acid etches, 297
Fully-bonded laminate floating, 279 when repairing carpets, 270
when replacing ceramic tile, 274
G Sanding, 251
Glass mosaic floors, installing, 326- 327 Sandpaper, purchasing, 304
Glue, 271 Scratches, 279
Glueless laminate flooring, 279, 313 Sealers, 300, 309
Gouges, repairing, 253 Seam tape, 269
Grout, 273, 275, 276 Self-adhesive resilient tiles, installing, 325
Sheet vinyl floors. See Resilient floors
H Soundproofed floors, 241
Holes, repairing small, 253 Spills, cleaning
from carpet, 247

,___.... . ....__,__ RAT IN GJ 1\1 D EX
A L Taping for painting, 356- 359
Alkyd, 381 Laser levels, buying, 333 Tinted primers, 335
Alkyd paint, 335 Latex paint, 335 Tools
Aprons, 369 Lead test kits, 33 1, 367 overview of decorating, 332- 333
Awls, described, 333 overview of painting, 330- 33 1
M see also specific tools
B Materials Towel bars, replaCing, 340- 343
Baseboards chOOSing paint, 335 Trim
described, 369 pteparation, 334 painring, 368- 373, 372
painting, 372 see also specific types preparation, 359
Beveled cuts, making, 354 MilIwotk Trisodium phosphate, described, 334
Blinds described, 369 U
installing, 346-350 painting, 359, 368- 373 Unfmished wood, preparing for painting,
types of, 35 1 Mirrors, hanging, 336- 339 364- 367
Bookcases, anchoring, 352- 355 Mismatches, 385
Booking, 385 Mounting plates, 341 V
Boxing paint, 362 Valances, 347
Bubblesticks,385 N
Nail sets, described, 333, 365 W
C Wallcovering
Cabinets, painting wood, 374- 375 p hanging
Carpenter's levels, buying, 333 Paint applying, 388- 393
Casements windows chOOSing, 335 planning, 384- 386
described, 369 color consistency, 362 preparing strips, 387
painting, 372 mixing, 33 1 stripping, 334, 380-383
Case moldings, 369 Paintbrushes, buying, 331 Walls
Ceilings, preparing fot painting, 358 Painting preparation, 356-359 inspecting for flaws, 383
Cellulat shades, desctibed, 351 Painting tools, overview of, 330-33 1 m ounting towel bars o n ceramic til es, 343
Ceramic tile walls, mounting towel bars on, 343 Pictures, hanging, 336- 339 painting, 359, 360-363
Circular saws, blade angle, 354 Pipes, hanging wallcovering around, 393 Wet edges, 361
Cleats, 353 Plate covers, 357 Window frames, 347
Concrete blocks Preparation liquids, described, 334 Window jambs, 347
painting, 376- 377, 379 Pressure sprayers, described, 334 Windows
repairing cracks, 378 Prim ers, 335 hanging wallcovering around, 391- 392
Cordless screwdrivers, buying, 333 Putty knives, described, 333 painting, 368- 373, 372
Countersinking, 365 painting preparation, 359
Cracks, repairing in concrete blocks, 378 R Window shadings, described, 351
Curtains, hanging, 344- 345 Rails, described, 369 Windowsills, described, 369
Cutting in, 361 Raw wood, preparing for painring, 364- 367 Window treatments
Razor knjves buying, 35 1
D described, 333, 385 hanging curtains, 344- 345
Decorating tools, overview of, 332- 333 renewing blades, 389 installing blinds & shades, 346-350
Doors Roller covers, buying, 331 Wood, unfmished, preparing for painring,
hangi ng wall covering around, 39 1- 392 Roller frames, buying, 331 364- 367
painting, 373 Roller trays, buying, 331 Wood cabinets, painting, 374- 375
Double-hung windows, 369 Roll-up shades, hanging window, 346- 350 Wood filler, described, 334
Draping for painting, 356- 359
Drills, buying, 333 S
Drywall, wall covering on, 380 Safety equipment needed, 334
Drywall knives, described, 333 Sanding raw wood, 365- 367
Screwdrivers, buying, 333
E Seam tape, described, 334
Easy-release painter's tape, 334, 357 Self-adhesive seam tape, described, 334
Efllorescence, 377 Setscrews, 341
Etche r, 377 Shades, hanging window, 346-350
Silicone caulk, 339
F Sinks, hanging wall covering around, 392
Felt pads, 339 Smoothing tools, 385
French cleats, 353 Spackle, described, 334, 341
Sponges, need for, 334
H Stiles, described, 369
Hammers, buying, 333 Stud finders, described, 333, 337
Head rails, 347 Studs, desctibed, 337
Hold-down clips, 347
Hole-patching kits, described, 334 T
Horizontal blinds, described, 351 Tape measures, buying, 333
INDEX 495
A Flap sanders, 403 Siding, basic repairs, 446- 449
Air-conditioning costs, 420 Foam backer rods, 429 Silicone acryliC caulk, 421
Aluminum siding, 446 Foggers, pesticide, 425 Sliding screen doors, repairing, 406-409
Ant traps, 425 Folding gutter extensions, 401 Small animal pests, 424- 427
Asphalt driveways, repairing, 432-437 G Spalled concrete, 429
Garage doors, tuning up, 468- 473 Spline, 407
B Garage floors, cleaning, 487 Spline rollers, 407
Board-and-batten, repairing, 446, 449 Glass panes, repairing broken, 438-441 Stains, removing, 486
Bonding agents, 443 Glazier's points, 439 Steps
Brown coat, 451 Gutter parts. estimating, 475 cleaning, 487
Gutter pitch, 475 rebuilding concrete, 445
C Gutter run, 475 repairing concrete, 442-444
Caulking Gutters Storm doors, installing, 410-415
basic exterior, 420-423 cleaning & repairing clogged, 398-401 Stucco, repairing, 450-453
exterior painting and, 405 folding extensions for, 401
to keep pests out, 424, 426 installing, 474-477 T
types of caulk, 421 Templates, 463
Chain-drive openers, 469 H Termites, 427
Chimney flue caps, 426 Hardware mortising technique , 467 Tongue-and-groove siding, repairing, 446, 449
Chip-outs, repairing concrete, 430-431 Heating costs, 420 Tools and supplies
Clapboard Siding, repairing, 446, 448 basic, 396-397
Clogged gutters, cleaning & repairing, 398-401 see also specific supplies; specific tools
Closing force sensitivity, 469 Insect mesh, 426 Transformers, 479
Cold-patch asphalt mix, 433 Insects, keeping out, 424- 427 True caulks, 421
Concrete surfaces
cleaning, 487 L V
driveways, 432 Lag screws, 455 Vinyl siding, repairing, 446
rebuilding steps, 445 Landscape lighting, installing, 478- 483
repairing cracks, 443 Locksets, installing, 462-465 W
repairing steps, 442-444 Low-voltage light kits, 479 Windows
repairing walkways, 428-431 maintaining double-hung, 416-419
spalled, 429 M repairing broken glass panes, 438-441
Connectors for gutters, estimating, 475 Metal laths, 451 repairing screening, 407
Corners for gutters, estimating, 475 Mice, 424- 427 sashes, 439
Cracks Mildew stains, removing, 486 Wooden structures
repairing in asphalt driveways, 433, 434-435 Mortar patching mix, 443 cleaning decks, 487
repairing in concrete steps, 443 Mortising technique for hardware, 467 renewing deck finishes, 454-457
repairing in concrete walkways, 428-429, 431 Mousetraps, 425 Wood shingles, repairing, 446
Cupped board, 455 Muntins, 417
o P
Deadbolts, installing, 462- 463, 465- 467 Parting strips, 417
Decks Parching compound, using, 444
cleaning, 487 Pesticide foggers, 425
renewing wood fmishes, 454-457 Pestproofing, 424- 427
Door casing boards, 411 Pressure washing, 484-487
Door jambs, 411 , 463
Doors R
installing storm, 410-415 Rain gutters, installing, 474- 477
repairing sliding screen, 406- 409 Roach traps, 425
Double-hung windows, maintaining, 416- 419 Roofs, replacing shingles, 458-461
Downspout elbows & outlets, 399, 475 Roof vent screens, 426
Drain pipe hangers, 399, 475 Rust stains, removing, 486
Drain pipes, estimating, 475
Drills ! drivers, 455 S
Driveways Safety
cleaning, 487 installing landscape lighting for, 478-483
concrete, 432 installing locksets & deadbolts for, 462-467
repairing asphalt, 432-437 roof,459
Sash stops, 417
E Scratch coat, 451
End caps, 399 Screens, repairing, 406-409
Exterior paint, touching up, 402- 405 Screw-drive openers, 469
Exterior wall construction, 447, 451 Sealers, applying, 457
Sealers for driveway, 433
F Shingles, roof, 459
Fixtures for landscape lighting, 483 Shingles, siding, 446

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The Complete Photo Guide to

100 essential projects every

Publisher: Bryan Trandem

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Introduction ... . .. .. .. .. . ... . .. .... 4

WIRING ....... . .. . . .... . . .. . . . . 7

4 THE COMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE FOR NEW HOMEOWNERS

REWARDI NG EXPE RI ENCE. Whether the house itself

After unpacking all the stuff, where does one start?

With The Complete Photo Guide to Homeowner Basics you'll

Each project has a detailed overview of the parts you'll

WITH THE SUBJECT MATTER BEFORE YOU BEGIN. IF YOU HAPPEN

o Before You Begin o Installing Dimmers

o Replacing Phone Jacks o Replacing Hanging Light

Needlenose Combination tool

8 THE COMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO HOMEOWNER BASICS

WIRING' Before You Begin 9

2 Inside the service panel are rows of toggle

10 THE COMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO HOMEOWNER BASICS

WIRING' Before You Begin 11

1 Find your m ain service panel (see page 10).

f you have an older home with an electrical panel that

2 Unscrew the fuse, being careful to touch only the

12 THE COMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO HOMEOWNER BASICS

o-touch current testers are very easy to use,

Receptacles: Remove the coverplate on the recep-

Wall switches: Remove the coverplate on the switch,

W I RING ' B e for e You Be g i n 13

• Stripping cables and wires • Making push-in connections

HOW TO STRIP WIRES

3 To strip insulation from the individual wire,

14 THE COMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO HOMEOWNER BASICS

1 Screw connectors are used to join circuit

HOW TO MAKE SCREW TERMINAL CONNECTIONS

WIRING' Before You Begin 15

1Although they are not as secure as screw con-

new type of wire connector looks like a

3 If you need to remove a wire from a push-in

continuity tester is a specialty tool that can be used

On lamp cords, use the

On wall switches, attach

WIRING' Before You Begin 17

REPAIRING OR REPLACING A BROKEN PHONE JACK is a project that offers a lot of

18 THE COMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO HOMEOWNER BASICS

The red terminal will accept: • a red wire

• a blue wire (or blue with white stripe)

• a white wire with blue stripe

The yellow terminal will accept: • a yellow wire

• an orange wire (or orange with white stripe)

WIRING' Replacing Phone J a cks 19

2 Under the cover, you' ll see six or eight

4 Take the old jack to a hardware store or home

20 THE COMPLETE PHOTO GUIDE TO HOMEOWNER BASICS

W hat if I have a really old jack? Older style phones used a

1 Unscrew the old jack from the wall, and

2 On the back of the old jack, you'll find two or

3 If your new jack uses forked tab connectors,

4 Set the jack over the old mounting holes

WIRING' Replacing Phone Jacks 21