MANUFACTURIG PROCESS OF DENIM GARMENTSS

DENIM
Denim is a durable cotton twill textile in which the weft passes under two or more w
typically used to make jeans, overalls, and other clothing. Denim was traditionally c

Flow Chart of Denim Production

Spinning
Ball Warping
Rope Dyeing
Long Chain Beaming
Sizing
Weaving
Finishing
Inspection and Folding
Packing
Dispatch

Spinning
The initial stage of denim production is Opening and Blending. Opening begins with

Cotton is delivered by air suction from the Opening and Blending lines, through add

The drawing process produces a single, uniform sliver from six card slivers. The add

Cotton Fibers are formed into a yarn by centrifugal action in Open- End Spinning. In

Open End Spinning

The Open End Spinning Machines have robots on each side which automatically pie

Ring Spinning
In Ring Spinning, the spinning frames receive Roving via a transit system from the r

ACG also has the capacity to produce Amsler Open-End yarn, also known as Faux Ri

Fabric Weaving
a. Grey Yarn on Cones
Normally yarns received for weaving in cone forms are either from ring spinning or f

Warp yarn
Weft yarn

Normally for Weaving, yarn used as warp should be sufficiently strong to withstand

b. Warping on Sectional/ Direct Warping

The warp yarn is required to be fed into a sheet form to the weaving machines. At w

c. Sizing of yarn in Set/ Beam to Beam Position

The object of Sizing is to improve the strength of yarn by chemically binding the fibr

d. Drawing–in
Weaving is basically interlacement of two sets i.e. warp and weft threads in desired

e. Beam Gaiting or Knotting on Loom

The drawn weavers beams are fixed on weaving machines, threads are tied and hea

f. Weaving
As stated earlier, weaving is interlacing two sets of yarn and making fabric. One set

Conventional Shuttle Weaving System by Ordinary Looms or Automatic Looms.

Shuttle less Weaving System by Airjet /Waterjet/Rapier/Projectile

Shuttle loom is a conventional Technology with much less production on account of

Airjet Looms
These types of looms adopt the latest development in Weaving Technology where w

Finishing
a. Grey Fabric
The finally woven fabric or Grey Fabric, as it is popularly called, wound on a cloth ro

b. Denim Fabric
Denim Fabrics woven of 100% cotton would be very strong and durable. Traditionall

The dyeing for Denim Fabric happens at the sizing stage. Generally there are two m

Rope Dyeing
Sheet Dyeing
A company can adopt any of the methods. In countries like India Sheet Dyeing Meth

The technology is less capital intensive.

The technology is a proven one.
The cost of production is lower.
The process time is lower.
The Sheet Dyeing machines are very easy to operate.

The only defect in Sheet dyeing is that their is a problem of center to selvedge shad

c. Sheet Dyeing Process

This process eliminates a few intermediate processes of the rope dyeing. The yarn s

Even today Denim Fabric without Indigo Dyeing is not called authentic Denim. Initia

d. Making-Up
Weaving of fabrics on such multi sizes is not economical, hence a standard width fa

Weaving Defects
Uneven Dyeing
Bleaching and Dyeing Defect
Oil Stain
Patches

Here the final product is categorised quality-wise. The products then found okay are

Dispatch
Rolls and sets so formed and packed as per buyers’ requirements are then sent for fi
under two or more warp threads. It is
m was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue "jeans".

Opening begins with baled cotton fiber being separated into small tufts. A blend of cotton fibers is made on eac

ng lines, through additional cleaning and blending machines, to the Cards. The major functions of Carding are to

card slivers. The additional blending, paralleling of fibers and cleaning in this process produces a sliver for Open

en- End Spinning. Individual fibers are laid down in the groove of a fast spinning rotor and twisted into yarn. Aft

ch automatically pieces up (repairs broken ends). On a different track, they have another robot that automatica

sit system from the roving machine. Yarn is formed from cotton fibers that are twisted together after being draft

so known as Faux Ring Spun yarn. This technology enables ACG to impart various slub patterns into an Open-En
om ring spinning or from open end spinning in single or double fold as required. For weaving, yarn used is categ

strong to withstand stress and strains exerted during weaving operations. Hence they are having Count Strengt

aving machines. At warping, the individual cones are put into the creel (the number of cones depends upon fabr

ically binding the fibres with each other and also improve upon its friction resistance capacity by chemically coa

ft threads in desired sequence and pattern. To obtain this interlacement, warp yarn sheet is bifurcated & opene

eads are tied and heald shafts are coupled. This operation is called Beam Gaiting. If undrawn warp threads are d

aking fabric. One set is called warp thread which is in sheet form, the other one is called weft thread which is in

utomatic Looms.

uction on account of slow speed and excessive wear and tear of machinery. This shuttle loom technology has no

Technology where weft insertion is done with the help of compressed air. A very high weft insertion rate up to 1

wound on a cloth roll is taken out from weaving machines at certain intervals and checked on inspection machi

durable. Traditionally Blue Denim is warp faced cotton fabric with 3 x 1 twill construction with warp being dyed

rally there are two most popular methods of dyeing Denim Fabric. They are:
a Sheet Dyeing Method is commonly used for manufacture of its Denim Fabrics, which has following advantages

nter to selvedge shade variation.

pe dyeing. The yarn sheet is washed with chemicals such as caustic and washing soda and after squeezing the e

thentic Denim. Initially when Denim Fabric entered the fashion market, Denim manufacturers were using Natura

e a standard width fabrics is then sent to making up. Fabrics are cut into the desired width as per size required o

then found okay are segregated and sent to packaging department whereas defective ones are sent for correct

nts are then sent for final despatches.

fibers is made on each opening line. These bales are selected using USDA High Volume Instrument (HVI) data, an

ons of Carding are to remove foreign matter and short fibers, form the cotton into a web and convert the web in

uces a sliver for Open End and Ring Spinning. For Ring Spinning, however, the sliver must pass through an addit

wisted into yarn. After the cotton fibers are spun into yarn, the yarn is wound into a large package.

obot that automatically doffs (removes full packages) and starts up a new package. The size and quality of each

ther after being drafted by passing between three steel rolls and three rubber rolls. The yarn then is wrapped on

erns into an Open-End yarn. Denim made from this type of yarn has yarn character and surface interest that ca
 g, yarn used is categorised into:

having Count Strength Product(CSP) and further sized to increase its strength. The weft yarn is directly used on

es depends upon fabric construction) and yarn from individual cones is pulled together in sheet form, wound on

ity by chemically coating the surface of yarn/fibres. Further, number of threads in warpers beam sheet is very le

s bifurcated & opened in the form of two layers/ sheet and weft thread is inserted between so opened two warp

n warp threads are directly knotted to the threads of finished beams, it is called Knotting. These operations are

eft thread which is inserted between two layers of warp sheet by means of a suitable carrier i.e. Shuttle, Projecti

m technology has now become obsolete. Denim is woven through Shuttle less Weaving System by using 96 ZAX

insertion rate up to 1800 metre per minute is achieved. Compared to rapier and projectile looms, these looms a

on inspection machines for possibilities of any weaving fault. If such faults are seen anywhere in fabric during i

with warp being dyed in a solid colour and weft left un-dyed. The look and quality of the Denim Fabric shall impro
following advantages over Rope Dyeing Method:

after squeezing the excess water; the yarn sheet is allowed to pass through Dyeing Troughs one time for oxidati

ers were using Natural Indigo Dye, which was costly and giving a natural finish. Though Synthetic Indigo Dye has

as per size required on this machine. Denim Fabric and Grey Fabric are thoroughly checked for various types of d

s are sent for correction. After inspection, the sets are wrapped with polythene covers and sent for despatch as
rument (HVI) data, and PCCA's unique computer blending software produces optimal yarn strength.

d convert the web into a rope-like form known as a sliver.

ass through an additional process called Roving.

e and quality of each yarn end are monitored by the Barco Profile System to ensure uniformity.

n then is wrapped on a bobbin as it spins on a spindle by use of a traveler. The relationship between roll speeds

rface interest that cannot be achieved with traditional Open-End yarn.

n is directly used on weaving machines and in some cases, if required, is rewound also so as to enhance its perf

heet form, wound on a barrel called warping beams (for Direct warping) or on weaving beams (for Sectional War

beam sheet is very less against number of threads required in whole width of fabric. Hence multiplication of she

so opened two warp sheets. This operation is called shedding. to perform shedding the warp yarn needs to be p

hese operations are essential because normally weavers beam can carry only certain length of warp sheet on it

r i.e. Shuttle, Projectile, Rapier, Air current, Water current, etc. Depending upon the type of the weaving machin

tem by using 96 ZAX-e Type Tsodakoma Corporation’s Airjet looms or rapier looms or projectile looms. These loo

ooms, these looms are less versatile but are economical and are used in mass textile production unit like denim

ere in fabric during inspection, certain corrective steps are taken at weaving, warping, sizing, etc so that they c

nim Fabric shall improve after dyeing, the process of which differs from plant to plant. Normally the process of dy
s one time for oxidation and development of dye on yarn. After dyeing, the dyed yarn is washed again with fresh

thetic Indigo Dye has gradually replaced Natural Indigo Dye, some unorganised manufacturers still prefer the la

for various types of defects such as:

sent for despatch as per buyer’s specifications.

between roll speeds, traveler speeds and spindle speeds controls the amount of twist in the yarn. Ends down le
 s to enhance its performance in weaving.

ms (for Sectional Warping). Normally if warp sheet is with patterns of different coloured yarns it is processed on s

multiplication of sheets by drawing yarns together from many warp beams and again making one sheet is also

p yarn needs to be passed through heald eyes of the heald shafts, this operation is called as drawing-in.

h of warp sheet on it and when so woven, whole length is converted to the fabric by weaving machine. Further

the weaving machines. The different types of technologies available for weaving machines are briefly explained

ctile looms. These looms are distinguished by weft insertion method, which is briefly discussed hereunder.

ction unit like denim.

ng, etc so that they can be minimised in subsequent product. This is a quality control exercise.

ally the process of dyeing dictates the technology of Denim manufacturing.

shed again with fresh water for two-three times and finalIy squeezed before allowing it to pass through six dryin

rers still prefer the latter and attract premium after branding them “Natural Dye Used”.
e yarn. Ends down levels and production information are gathered by the Uster Ring Expert System. The spinnin
ns it is processed on sectional warping machine.

ng one sheet is also performed on sizing machine. On sizing, normally, 8-12 % size material on warp thread is a

as drawing-in.

ng machine. Further warp length is required to be fed which can be done by knotting or gaiting other beams on

are briefly explained as below:

sed hereunder.
ass through six drying cylinders. The dyed yarn enters the starching device and sizing is done. After sizing, the s
t System. The spinning frames automatically doff bobbins full of yarn and send them to package winding.
l on warp thread is applied. This improvement in strength and frictional resistance characteristic of warp yarn is

ting other beams on weaving machine.

ne. After sizing, the sized warp beam goes for weaving. After weaving, the woven Denim Fabrics goes for variou
kage winding.
eristic of warp yarn is essential because during weaving, yarn has to undergo severe strain & stress as well as fr
abrics goes for various finishing processes consisting of brushing, singeing, washing, impregnation for dressing a
& stress as well as frictional operations.
gnation for dressing and drying. Brushing and singeing should eliminate impurities and help to even the surface
p to even the surface of the fabric. Dressing regulates the hand and rigidity of the fabric while compressive shrin
ile compressive shrinking regulates its dimensional stability.