Cutting Room Terminologies in Apparel Industry
Cutting Room Terminologies in Apparel Industry
Cutting Room Terminologies in Apparel Industry
In Cutting room number of technical terms and trading terms are used to communicate
processes or components or tools. I have made a list of those terms and explained those in the
following table.
Common Definition
Terminology
Band knife An endless blade vertical knife, around which the
work is moved over the large cutting table
Bias Cut ‘Cut on the Bias’ – cut at an angle to both the
warp and the weft of the cloth, at 45 degree.
Baker’s Trolley A wheeled rack used to transport sections of the
lay from the cutting table to the band knife and
from the band knife to the sorting operations.
Block Cutting or Cutting roughly around a part which is
Blocking out subsequently cut very precisely, by various
means. Also for splitting the lay, to assist
handling to the band knife.
Bowing A fault in woven cloth in which the weft is not
straight across the piece but has curve.
Clicker Press Used for parts of intricate nature and repetitive,
also for parts requiring a high degree of accuracy.
Cross ‘Cut on the crosses – Cut at right angles to the
grain of the cloth (On bias).
Damage A fabric fault. It may be generated during
handling fabric inside factory or faulty fabric sent
the fabric supplier.
Die cutting Used where accuracy is important and there is
enough repetition
End loss The cloth at the end of the lay that is not covered
by the marker
Face one way The face side of each ply faces the same way (up
spreading or down)
Face to face Method of spreading in which the cloth is
spreading alternately facing up or down, as a result of
continuous to and fro movement of the roll over
the lay.
Face to face one way Used for directional fabric where the pile
spreading (direction) is required to lie in the same direction
on all the plies.
Layout (pattern The geometrical layout of the pattern pieces in a
layout) garment, which is cut around to produce the
parts of the garment
Marker a) A man who prepares the pattern layout and/or
who marks the layout onto the lay or onto a
paper or a cloth.
b) A piece of paper, cloth etc. representing the
layout.
Notch A small cut into the part, which aids the location
during assembly by indicating to the operator
some requirement for matching with other
notches or positions in the garment
On the fold Method of finishing the cloth so that it is folded
to half its width
Shading Means colour in cloth. It is commonly used to
imply that a particular bit/roll of cloth is different
in shade from another bit.
Shade Numbering Process of numbering parts to ensure they are of
same shade
Slubs A local thick place in the yarn in a cloth usually
caused by error but in some cloths it is
introduced purposely