DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Berlin PDF

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Berlin
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Berlin
Main Contributor Małgorzata Omilanowska

Produced by Wydawnictwo
Wiedza i Życie, Warsaw
Introducing Berlin Berlin Area by
Managing Editor Ewa Szwagrzyk
Series Editor Joanna Egert Area
DTP Designer Pawel Pasternak
Consultant Nils Meyer
Illustrations Andrzej Wielgosz,
Lena Maminajszwili, Dorota Jarymowicz Great Days in Berlin 10 Around Unter
Photography Dorota and Mariusz den Linden 56
Jarymowicz Putting Berlin on
Correction Bożena Leszkowicz
Production Anna Kożurno-Królikowska,
the Map 14 Museum Island 72
Ewa Roguska
The History of East of the Centre 88
Dorling Kindersley Limited
Editors Nancy Jones, Esther Labi, Berlin 20
Hugh Thompson North of the Centre 100
Senior Editor Helen Townsend Berlin at a Glance 32
Contributors Małgorzata Omilanowska,
Tiergarten 116
Jürgen Scheunemann, Christian Tempel Berlin Through
Maps Maria Wojciechowska, the Year 50 Kreuzberg 140
Dariusz Osuch (D. Osuch i spółka)
Printed and bound in China
Around
First published in the UK in 2000
Kurfürstendamm 150
by Dorling Kindersley Limited, 80 Strand,
London WC2R 0RL, UK Around Schloss
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Charlottenburg 160
Reprinted with revisions 2002, 2003,
2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, 2011,
Further Afield 170
2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
Copyright 2000, 2017 © Dorling Kindersley
Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored in
a retrieval system, or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available
from the British Library.
ISBN 978-0-2412-7727-0
Floors are referred to throughout in
accordance with British usage, The viewing gallery of the Reichstag (see pp138–9)
i.e. the “first floor” is the floor above
ground level.
The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: travelguides@dk.com.
Title page The Brandenburg Gate at night Front cover image The beautiful Berliner Dom, on Museum Island
Back cover image The Regierungsviertel, with the Reichstag on the left
Contents
Greater Berlin Travellers’ Survival Guide
Needs
Potsdam 192 Where to Stay 218 Practical Information 278
Three Guided Walks 208 Where to Eat Getting to Berlin 288

and Drink 226
Getting Around Berlin
Shopping in Berlin 250 292
Entertainment in Berlin Street Finder 300

Berlin 260
General Index 324
Children’s Berlin 274
Acknowledgments 348
Phrase Book 350
Nikolaiviertel, with the Fernsehturm in

the background (see p92 and p95)
Berliner Dom
(see pp78–9)
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This Eyewitness Travel Guide helps you get Berlin covers the nearby historic city of
the most from your stay in Berlin. Introducing Potsdam, and has three walking tours
Berlin maps the city and the region, sets around parts of Berlin you might otherwise
modern Berlin in its historical and cultural miss. Well-researched tips on hotels,
context, and describes events through the restaurants, shops and markets,
year. Berlin at a Glance is an overview of the entertainment and sports is found in
city’s highlights. Berlin Area by Area is the Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide
main sightseeing section, and describes has advice on everything from using
all the important sights, with photographs, Berlin’s medical services to navigating
maps and detailed illustrations. Greater the public transport system.
Berlin Area by Area

Each of the eight sightseeing describing its history and the chapter is made simple
areas in Berlin is colour-coded character, and has a Street-by- by the numbering system
for easy reference. Every chapter Street map illustrating a par- used throughout. The most
opens with an introduction to ticularly interesting part of that important sights are covered in
the area of the city it covers, area. Finding your way around detail in two or more full pages.
BERLIN AREA BY AREA  57
AROUND UNTER DEN LINDEN

The area around the grand avenue Unter Friedericianum (later Bebelplatz). Over the
den Linden is among the most attractive following two centuries Unter den Linden
in Berlin. Its development began in the became one of the city’s most imposing
Colour-coded tabs help you find

Baroque period with the establishment avenues. World War II bombing took a heavy
of Dorotheenstadt to the north and toll, but despite only partial reconstruction
Friedrichstadt to the south. From the early by the East German government, the area
18th century, prestigious buildings began to
appear here, and work started on the Forum
is still home to the highest concentration
of historic buildings in Berlin. the section you want.
Sights at a Glance
Churches Historic Buildings and Sites Restaurants
q St-Hedwigs-Kathedrale 3 Neue Wache see pp232–3
r Friedrichswerdersche Kirche 4 Humboldt Universität 1 Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt
y Französischer Dom 5 Reiterdenkmal Friedrichs 2 Bocca di Bacco
i Deutscher Dom des Grossen 3 Borchardt
Museums and Galleries 6 Staatsbibliothek 4 Chipps
8 Altes Palais 5 Cookies Cream
1 Zeughaus (Deutsches Historisches
9 Alte Bibliothek 6 Dressler
Museum) (pp60–61)
e Kronprinzenpalais 7 Fischers Fritz
7 Deutsche Bank KunstHalle
p Mohrenkolonnaden 8 Kaffeehaus Einstein
s Museum für Kommunikation
a Spittelkolonnaden 9 Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer
Streets and Squares g Brandenburger Tor 10 Das Meisterstück
2 Unter den Linden h Holocaust Denkmal 11 Nante-Eck
0 Bebelplatz v Palais am Festungsgraben 12 Quarré
t Gendarmenmarkt Others 13 Samadhi
f Pariser Platz 14 Vau
o Friedrichstadtpassagen
15 Zwölf Apostel
Theatres d Ehemaliges Regierungsviertel
w Staatsoper Unter den Linden j Hotel Adlon Kempinski
u Konzerthaus k Russische Botschaft
l Komische Oper z Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse
x Admiralspalast
c Maxim Gorki Theater
AM K UPF E R GRABEN
GESCHWIST .
SCHOLL-STR
PL AN
A locator map shows where

CKST
ER-
R.
Friedrich- GEORGENST
R.
e E R
re UF strasse HEGEL-
S p S TA G See also Street Finder
you are in relation to other

PLATZ
FRIEDRIC
H
IC
RE ENSTR.
NEUSTÄDTI SSE
DOROTHE maps 8 & 9

KIRCHSTRA
WILHELM
ENSTR.
DOROTHE
.
HSTR.
DOROTHEEN- MITTELSTR
SCHE
areas in the city centre.

STR.
LINDEN
STR.
Brandenburger
Tor R DEN 0 metres 400
PARISER UNTE BEBEL-
PLATZ PLATZ
0 yards 400
RASSE
BEHRENST
9•12 MITTE WERDERSCHER
SE
SSE CHE STRAS MARKT
BEH R E N S
TR A Französische FRANZÖSIS
WIL
Strasse
MAU
R.
JÄGERST
SE
GLINKASTR
HEL
GENDARMEN-
FRIEDRICH
Hausvogteiplatz
OB
.
TRAS
MARKET
ERS
JÄGERSTR
CHARLOTTEN
ERW
MS
ASS
KU
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ERS
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AS
TAUBENSTR PLATZ ED
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TR.
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WA
SE
MOHRENSTR. SE
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STRASSE
STRASSE
Mohrenstrasse MOHRENSTR. TR
. Spittelmarkt
FENSTR.
Stadtmitte .
KRONENSTR
SPITTEL-
KRONENSTR.
STRASSE
RASS E MARKT
VOSS ST
Potsdamer LEIPZIGER
Platz
STRASSE
LEIPZIGER
SE
LEIPZIGER
STRASSE
AS
KRAUSEN
WIL
POTSDAMER PLATZ
TR
PLATZ
HEL
NS
Potsdamer
Platz STRASSE
DE
SCHÜTZEN
MST
LIN
TRASSE
RAS
ZIMMERS
TRASSE
SE
. ZIMMERS
CHNER STR
NIEDERKIR
Schiller’s monument and Französischer Dom, Gendarmenmarkt For keys to symbols see back flap
1
152  BERLIN AREA BY AREA AROUND KURFÜRSTENDAMM  153
Area Map Street-by-Street: Breitscheidplatz 6 Ludwig-Erhard-Haus
For easy reference, the sights in

The structure of the Berlin AROUND SCHLOSS
and Ku’damm Kant-Dreieck

This building,
Stock Exchange is based
on parabolic arches.
CHARLOTTENBURG
TIERGARTEN
The area surrounding the eastern end of the containing only
each area are numbered and Ku’damm, especially Tauentzienstrasse and

Breitscheidplatz, is the centre of the former West
Berlin. Thirty years ago this ultra-modern district, full
right angles, was
designed by Josef
Paul Kleihues. The
“sail” on the roof
AROUND
KURFÜRSTENDAMM
plotted on the Area Map. This of department stores and office blocks, attracted
visitors from all over the world. Today, although the
area still retains its unique atmosphere, it is
makes it instantly
recognizable.
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 6, 11, 12 & 13.
map also shows U- and S-Bahn

becoming overshadowed by Potsdamer Platz and
the arcades of Friedrichstrasse. However, nowhere 8 Theater des Westens
else in Berlin is there a place so full of life as The façade of this musical
theatre is fittingly decorated
stations, main bus and tram

Breitscheidplatz, a department store with such style
with dancing women.
as KaDeWe, or streets as refined as Fasanenstrasse.
stops, and parking areas. The

KA
9 Jüdisches Gemeindehaus
N
TS
Some of the remaining

TR
fragments of the old synagogue

A
SS
have been incorporated into
area’s key sights are listed by

E
the façade of this building.
Literaturhaus contains
a charming café and a Bahnhof Zoo
category, such as museums. good bookshop.
2 Europa-Center
One of the attractions of the Europa-Centre
is a glazed courtyard containing a fountain
KU with moving parts.
RF
ÜR
ST
EN
B
U
E DA
SS
D
M
A M
A
R
ST
P
E
EN
S
N E
S
T
SA S
E
FA A
R
R
T
S
AUG
S
E
T
K E
S TA
R
E S U
A
IN A EN
S
SBU
E R T
S
M T Z
q Käthe-Kollwitz- S
E
Museum R
IE
E
RGE
L
N
The museum is housed A

T 1 . Zoologischer
ST
in one of the charming S

R ST
IM Garten
RA
villas on Fasanenstrasse. H
C The Oriental-style
SS
A
Elephant Gate is one of
JO
RAS
two entrances to the

0 Fasanenstrasse Zoological Gardens.
SE
This tranquil street features

some of the most
expensive shops in Berlin.
Key
Suggested route
4 Ku’damm 3 . Kaiser-Wilhelm-
A stroll along the Ku’damm Gedächtnis-Kirche
is a stroll into the heart of The mosaics on the wall of the
0 metres 400
Berlin, and an essential part sacristy, by Hermann Schaper,
0 yards 400 of any visit to the city. survived World War II undamaged.
2
A suggested route takes in Street-by-Street Map
some of the most interesting
and attractive streets in the area.
This gives a bird’s-eye view of interesting and important
parts of each sightseeing area. The numbering of the
sights ties up with the Area Map and the fuller
description of the entries on the pages that follow.
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
Berlin Area Map

The coloured areas shown on this Berlin Area by Area
This guide divides Berlin into eight sightseeing areas, as
shown on the map below. Each area is colour-coded and
map (see inside front cover) are the has its own chapter within Berlin Area by Area (see pp54–169).
These areas are highlighted on other maps throughout
the book.
eight main sightseeing areas used

in this guide. Each is covered in Tiergarten
Around Unter
den Linden
East of the Centre
a full chapter in Berlin Area by Area

Pages 116–139 Pages 88–99
Pages 56–71
0 metres 1000
0 yards 1000
(see pp54–169). They are highlighted

North of the
Centre
on other maps throughout the

book. In Berlin at a Glance, for
East of the
Around Schloss Centre
Charlottenburg
example, they help you locate

Around Unter
den Linden
Tiergarten Museum
Island
the top sights. They are also used Around

Kurfürstendamm
North of the Centre
Pages 100–115
to help you find the position of Kreuzberg
three walks (see pp209–15).

Around Schloss
Charlottenburg
Pages 160–169
Around
Kurfürstendamm
Pages 150–159 Kreuzberg Museum Island
Pages 140–149 Pages 72–87
86 І BERLIN AREA BY AREA MUSEUM ISLAND І 87
building now houses the includes a frieze alluding to house owes its
photographic archives for aspects of the tobacco business. fame, however, to
the state museums of Berlin.
A number of picturesque
garden cafés and fashionable
Restorers have recreated much
of the original façade. The
Rococo furniture dates from
its time as the home
and bookshop of the
publisher, writer and critic
Practical information
restaurants make this attractive
area very popular with tourists.
about 1760 and the notable
18th-century staircase has also
been rebuilt.
Christoph Friedrich Nicolai
(1733–1811). Nicolai acquired
the house around 1788,
provides everything you
A modern hotel has been
built to the rear of the house
facing Wallstrasse, using
when he had it rebuilt to a
Neo-Classical design by Karl
Friedrich Zelter to become a
need to know to visit each
sight. Map references
The exterior of the Märkisches Museum, echoing a medieval monastery Ermeler-Haus as its kitchens, bookshop and major German
while the first-floor rooms are cultural centre.
r Märkisches who wish to find out more used for special events. One of the outstanding
Museum about the history of the city can personalities of the Berlin
Am Köllnischen Park 5. Map 10 D4.

Tel 24 00 21 62.  Jannowitzbrücke,
visit other affiliated museums
and monuments such as the
Nikolaikirche (see pp92–3) and
u Gertrauden-
brücke
Enlightenment, Nicolai was
a great supporter of such
notable cultural figures as the
East German fashion now on show in the
Märkisches Museum (see opposite) pinpoint the sight’s location
on the Street Finder map
Märkisches Museum.  Jannowitz-
the Ephraim-Palais (see p93). St Gertrude’s Bridge Jewish philosopher Moses o Galgenhaus
brücke. @ 147, 248, 265, M48. Open
Surrounding the museum is the Mendelssohn (see p104) and the Gallows House
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Presentation Map 9 B4.  Spittelmarkt.
Köllnischer Park, which has a @ 265, M48. playwright Gotthold Ephraim
of mechanical musical instruments Brüderstrasse 10. Map 9 B4.
Lessing (1729–81). Other
(see pp300–323).
3pm Sun. kennel built in 1928 to house
Tel 206 13 29 13.  Spittelmarkt.
brown bears kept as city One of Berlin’s more regular literary visitors to the @ 147, 265, M48. Open only during
This architectural pastiche is a mascots, and an unusual statue The Neo-Classical exterior of the interesting bridges, this Nicolai-Haus at this period special events.
complex of red-brick buildings of Berlin artist Heinrich Zille. Ermeler-Haus connects Fischer Island included Johann Gottfried
that most resembles a medieval with Spittelmarkt at Schadow, Karl Wilhelm Local legend has it that
monastery. It was built between y Ermeler-Haus the point where Ramler and Daniel an innocent servant girl was
1901 and 1908 to house a t Märkisches Ufer Ermeler House St Gertrude’s Hospital Chodowiecki, all once hanged in front of this
collection relating to the history once stood. The commemorated building, which dates from
Map 10 D4.  Märkisches Museum. Märkisches Ufer 10. Map 9 C4. 
of Berlin and the Brandenburg  Jannowitzbrücke. @ 147, 248, Märkisches Museum.  Jannowitz-
Gertraudenbrücke with a wall plaque. 1700. It was originally built as
region, from the time of the 265, M48. brücke. @ 147, 248, 265, M48. was designed by Otto Between 1905 and the presbytery of the now
earliest settlers to the present. Stahn and built in 1894. 1935 the building vanished church of St Peter.
Inspired by the brick-Gothic Once called Neukölln am With its harmonious Neo- Standing in the housed a museum Redesigned in the Neo-
style popular in the Branden- Wasser, this street, which runs Classical façade, Märkisches Ufer middle of the bridge devoted to Lessing. Classical style around 1805,
burg region, architect Ludwig along the Spree river, is one of No. 10 stands out as one of the is a bronze statue of Today the rear the front portal and one of the
Hoffmann included references the few corners of Berlin where most handsome villas in Berlin. the hospital’s patron wing features a fine rooms on the ground floor are
to Wittstock Castle and to
St Catherine’s Church in the city
of Brandenburg. In the entrance
it is still possible to see the
town much as it must have
looked in the 18th and 19th
This house was once the town
residence of Wilhelm Ferdinand
Ermeler, a wealthy merchant
saint, St Gertrude, by
Rudolf Siemering.
A 13th-century
staircase from the
Weydinger-Haus,
demolished in 1935.
all that remain of the original
Baroque structure.
Today the Galgenhaus
Numbers refer to each
hall, a statue of the hero Roland
stands guard, a copy of the
15th-century monument in the
centuries. Eight picturesque
houses have been meticulously
conserved here.
and shopkeeper who made his
money trading in tobacco. It
originally stood on Fischerinsel
Christian mystic,
St Gertrude is shown
here as a Benedictine
Statue of St Gertrude
Installed in
late 1970s, the

the
Nicolai-Haus in the
houses an archive of historic
photographs. These reveal
the ways in which Berlin has
sight’s position on the
Area Map and its place
city of Brandenburg. The main Two Neo-Baroque houses at on the opposite bank of the abbess. Leaning over a poor staircase previously stood developed over the years
hall features the original Gothic No. 16 and No. 18, known as river, at Breite Strasse No. 11, youth she hands him a lily in the nearby Ermeler Haus through changes in its
portal from the Berlin residence Otto-Nagel Haus, used to but in 1968 the house was (symbol of virginity), a distaff (see opposite). buildings and monuments.
of the Margraves of Branden- contain a small museum dismantled and reconstructed (care for the poor) and a vessel
burg (see pp19–21), demolished
in 1931. Also featured is a
horse’s head from the Schadow
displaying paintings by Otto
Nagel, a great favourite with the
communist authorities. The
on this new site. The house was
remodelled in 1825 to Ermeler’s
specifications, with a decor that
filled with wine (love). The
pedestal is surrounded by mice,
a reference to the fact that
Cölln
An ancient settlement in the area called Fischerinsel at the southern
in the chapter.
Quadriga, which once crowned Gertrude is patron saint of end of Museum Island, the village of Cölln has now been razed
the Brandenburg Gate (see p69). farmland and graves – both almost to the ground. Not even a trace remains of the medieval
A further collection in the popular environments for mice. St Peter’s parish church. Until 1939, however, this working-class area
same building is devoted to the with its tangle of narrow streets
Berlin theatre during the period maintained a historic character
1730 to 1933, including many i Nicolai-Haus and unique identity of its own.
posters, old programmes and This vanished completely in the
Story boxes provide

Brüderstr. 13. Map 9 B4. Tel 20 45 81 1960s, when most of the buildings
stage sets. One of the galleries 63.  Spittelmarkt. @ 147, 265, M48. were demolished to be replaced
houses some charming old- Open by appointment only. & with prefabricated tower blocks.
time mechanical musical instru-
A few historic houses, including
ments, which can be heard
playing during special shows.
The Märkisches Museum is a
Built around 1670, the Nicolai-
Haus is a fine example of
Baroque architecture, with its
Ermeler-Haus (see opposite), were
reconstructed elsewhere, but the
atmosphere of this part of town
information about
historical or cultural
branch of the Stadtmuseum original, magnificent oak has changed forever. An engraving of old Cölln
Berlin organization, and those Barges moored alongside Märkisches Ufer staircase still in place. The
topics relating to
3 Detailed information on each sight

All the important sights in Berlin are described
in depth in this section. They are listed in order,
the sights.
following the numbering on the Area

Map. Practical information includes a 78 І BERLIN AREA BY AREA MUSEUM ISLAND І 79
map reference, opening hours and Berliner Dom The Four

4 VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Evangelists
The original Berliner Dom was based on a modest Mosaics depicting
Practical Information
the Four Evangelists
Baroque design by Johann Boumann. Built between 1747 Am Lustgarten.
telephone numbers. The key to

decorate the ceilings
and 1750 on the site of an old Dominican church, the Map 9 B3.
of the smaller niches
Tel 20 26 91 19.
cathedral included the original crypt of the Hohenzollern in the cathedral. They
Open 9am–8pm (7pm in winter)
family, one of the largest of its kind in Europe. The present were designed by
Mon–Sat, noon–8pm Sun.
the symbols used is on the back flap.

Woldemar Friedrich.
Neo-Baroque structure is the work of Julius Raschdorff & 5 Sun.
and dates from 1894 to 1905. The central copper dome is Transport
some 98 m (321 ft) high. Following severe World War II  Hackescher Markt. @ 100, 200.
damage, the cathedral has now been restored in a
simplified form. The Hohenzollern memorial chapel,
The Resurrection
which had originally adjoined the northern walls of the The stained glass in the
cathedral, has been dismantled. windows of the apses
depict scenes from the life
of Jesus. They are the work
of Anton von Werner.
Philipp der Grossmütige
(Philip the Magnanimous)
At the base of the arcade stand
the statues of church reformers
The Visitors’ Checklist provides

and those who supported the
Reformation. The statue of Prince
Philip the Magnanimous is the
work of Walter Schott.
all the practical information

needed to plan your visit. . Church Interior
The impressive and richly-decorated
interior was designed by Julius
Raschdorff at the start of the
20th century.
Sauer’s Organ Main

The organ, the work of Wilhelm Sauer, entrance
has an exquisitely carved case. The
instrument contains some 7,200 pipes.
. Hohenzollern The Pulpit
Sarcophagi This elaborate Neo-Baroque pulpit is
Stars indicate the sights that no

KEY The Imperial part of the cathedral’s ornate decor
Hohenzollern family dating from the early 20th century.
1 Figures of the apostles crypt, hidden beneath
2 The main altar, saved from the floor of the cathedral,
visitor should miss. the previous cathedral, is the work

of Friedrich August Stüler. It dates
from 1820.
contains 100 richly
decorated sarcophagi,
including that of Prince
. Sarcophagi of Friedrich I and his Wife
Both of these were designed by Andreas
Schlüter. The sculpture on Sophie Charlotte’s
Friedrich Ludwig. sarcophagus depicts death.
4 Berlin’s major sights

Historic buildings are dissected to reveal
their interiors; museums and galleries have
colour-coded floorplans to help you find
the most important exhibits.
introducing
berlin
Great Days in Berlin 10–13

Putting Berlin on the Map 14–19
The History of Berlin 20–31
Berlin at a Glance 32–49
Berlin Through the Year 50–53
10  INTRODUCING BERLIN
GREAT DAYS IN BERLIN

Berlin is a city packed with treasures and some of the best of the city’s attractions,
wonderful things to see and do. Whether arranged first by theme and then by length
here for several days, or just wanting a of stay. The price guides on pages 10–11
flavour of this great city, you’ll want to include travel, food and admission for two
make the most of your time. Over the adults, while family prices are for two adults
following pages, you’ll find itineraries for and two children.
History and Culture
Two adults
allow at least €95
•
See Brandenburger Tor
•
Walk along Wilhelmstrasse
•
Lunch at a brasserie
•
Zeughaus/Museum Island
•
Checkpoint Charlie
Morning
Start on the Unter den Linden
at the city’s most famous
landmark, Brandenburger Tor
(see p69), one of the few People-watching from pavement tables, Kurfürstendamm
remaining historic city gates.
Walk south from the gate, past is round the corner. The
past or across the Holocaust Topographie des Terrors
A Family Day
Memorial, to Wilhelmstrasse. (see p144), at the site of the
The Reich’s Chancellery and former Gestapo and SS HQ, Family of four
Hitler’s office (see p68) are details crimes at the excavated allow at least €220
to your right at No. 77 torture cells. An original •
Visit the zoo
Vossstrasse. Another grim section of the Berlin Wall that •
A quick self-service lunch
reminder of Germany’s Nazi used to run just behind the
Neo-Renaissance Martin-
•
Hands-on technology fun
Gropius-Bau building is nearby •
Studio tour at the
(see p144). From here, walk Filmpark
back along Wilhelmstrasse to
39 Unter den Linden for lunch
at the brasserie Dressler Morning
(see p232). Start at the Zoo Berlin (see
p154), one of Germany’s oldest
Afternoon and biggest zoos. Leave the zoo
Tour the German history exhibits via the Hardenbergplatz exit and
at the Zeughaus (Deutsches walk east towards the Kaiser-
Historisches Museum) Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-Kirche
(see pp60–61). Then head north on bustling Breitscheidplatz.
along the canal to Museum Enjoy the jugglers and street
Island (see pp73–87), a world- artists on the square, then pop
class museum complex, and in to see the heavenly blue light
explore the Neues Museum in the church’s modern section.
or the Pergamonmuseum Lunch at the Marché Mövenpick,
with its famous Ishtar Gate from set up like a street market on
Babylon. Detour to Kreuzberg the elegant Kurfürstendamm
by walking south on Friedrich- (see pp151–9).
strasse to Checkpoint Charlie,
the former Allied border crossing, Afternoon
Rotunda gallery of the Altes Museum, and visit the museum Haus am Catch a bus on Kurfürstendamm
Museum Island Checkpoint Charlie (see p145). which will take you to the
Leipziger Platz by Antoine Otto, c.1910
G R E AT D AY S I N B E R L I N  11
Deutsches Technikmuseum
(see p148), with its planes,
vintage cars, trains, boats and
hands-on experiments. Bus back
to Zoologischer Garten and then
take the S-Bahn to Potsdam-
Babelsberg and its Filmpark
Babelsberg for a tour of
Germany’s biggest studio com-
plex (see p207). Grab a simple
dinner in Kreuzberg or Neukölln.
A Shopping Day
Two adults
allow at least €50 (cost of
lunch and travel only)
•
Shop at KaDeWe
•
Stroll to Savignyplatz
•
Snack on the go
•
Browse designer labels in
Friedrichstadtpassagen
Morning
Begin at Kaufhaus des Westens,
called KaDeWe by Berliners, Lobby at the impressive French department store, Galeries Lafayette
Europe’s largest department
store (see p159). Then explore Friedrichstrasse. Walk north; once Grunewald (see pp214–15), a
the Tauentzienstrasse, a over Unter den Linden, you’ll lovely hunting palace with an
popular, affordable shopping find the huge complexes of art gallery. You’ll pass fine
avenue, and continue on the Friedrichstadtpassagen, historic villas and interesting
Kurfürstendamm – the further including the French Galeries museums as you go. Continue
west you go, the more elegant the Lafayette and the über-luxurious through the forest to Wannsee
shops and boutiques. Take detours Quartier 206, alongside top lake (see p188) for a swim and a
into even more chic side streets designers Gucci, Versace and sunbathe or walk back to the
such as Fasanen-, Meineke-, Donna Karan. If not yet shopped S-Bahn and get off at Wannsee
Uhland-, Bleibtreu- and out, walk back north on Friedrich- station. Take a bus ride to the
Schlüterstrasse as you head to strasse and then east on Oranien- ferry for a walk on Pfaueninsel,
Savignyplatz (see p158) with its burger Strasse to Hackescher a nature reserve (see pp210–11).
many boutiques and eateries. Markt. This is a hip area of mostly After a walk around the island,
alternative-style, young fashion, take a break at the scenic
Afternoon as well as clubs, bars and pubs. Wirtshaus Zur Pfaueninsel beer
Take the S-Bahn from Savignyplatz garden at the ferry landing
towards the east and exit at before returning to Wannsee
Berlin Outdoors S-Bahn station.
Two adults Afternoon

allow at least €90 From Wannsee, take the S-Bahn
•
A walk to Grunewald to the green lung of Berlin, the
forest vast Tiergarten (see pp117–39).
•
Boat trip to Pfaueninsel Follow the Strasse des 17. Juni
east and climb the Siegessäule
•
The Tiergarten (see pp136–7), the victory
•
Schloss Bellevue column with a great view of the
city. Follow Spreeweg to Schloss
Bellevue (see p137), the official
Presidential seat. To finish, walk
Morning southwest to Neuer See, a
From the S-Bahn station pretty lake in the park. Rent a
A plane on display at the Deutsches Grunewald, walk south (about boat at the Café am Neuen See
Technikmuseum 60 minutes) to Jagdschloss and return for supper.
the Ephraim-Palais (p93) and

2 Days in Berlin to visit the city’s oldest parish
church, the Nikolaikirche
•
Enjoy a bird’s-eye view (p92). Next, head north for
of the city from the Marienkirche (pp96–7), with its
Fernsehturm impressive Neo-Gothic tower.
•
Stroll in leafy Tiergarten Travel up to the top of the
Fernsehturm (p95) for an
•
View a slice of history
impressive view of Berlin.
at Checkpoint Charlie
Afternoon After lunch, visit
Day 1 Berlin’s Protestant cathedral,
Morning Take a lift to the top Twin towers: the Gothic Marienkirche and the Berliner Dom (pp78–9),
of the Fernsehturm (p95) for futuristic Fernsehturm and continue on to Museum
panoramic views of Berlin. Then Island to see the Pergamon-
board bus 100 for a tour of the Just a short walk away is the museum (pp82–5) (note the
once-divided city; hop off at Holocaust Denkmal (p69), a Altar room is closed for renov-
Lustgarten for the Berliner striking yet moving memorial ations until 2019). Cross Schinkel’s
Dom, Berlin’s most lavish church to the Jewish victims of the beautiful Schlossbrücke (p76)
(pp78–9), and Museum Island Holocaust. and walk the length of famous
(pp72–87), where you can see Unter den Linden (p62) to the
the stunning bust of Egyptian Afternoon Cross the Spree Brandenburger Tor (p69), the
Queen Nefertiti in the Neues over the Schleusenbrücke lock city’s iconic gateway, and the
Museum (p80). bridge to the Nikolaiviertel Reichstag (pp138–9) – a potent
(p92) to discover the attractive symbol of reunified Germany.
Afternoon Continue by bus Nikolaikirche (p92), the Rococo End the day at the Holocaust
along Unter den Linden (p62) Ephraim-Palais (p93) and the Denkmal (p69), Germany’s
to Bundestag for the German Gothic Marienkirche (pp96–7). national Holocaust memorial.
parliament building, the Round off the day at a bar in
Reichstag (pp138–9), and iconic the old industrial courtyards Day 2
Brandenburger Tor (p69), which of Hackesche Höfe (p105). Morning Sample the city’s
once marked the city’s western two leading cultural centres.
boundary. Nearby is Tiergarten In lively Potsdamer Platz
(p136), the city’s largest central
3 Days in Berlin (pp132–5), visit the entertaining
park, and Kaiser-Wilhelm- Filmmuseum Berlin (p132).
Gedächtnis-Kirche (pp156–7), •
Time travel through 750 There is so much on offer at
a monument to victims of years of Berlin history the Kulturforum (pp118–19);
World War II. •
Explore the Kulturforum the superb Gemäldegalerie
for some breathtaking art (pp126–9), Berlin’s largest art
Day 2 museum, boasts superb
Morning Begin at Checkpoint European masterpieces. Have
Charlie (p145), the famous Day 1 lunch at the café of the Haus
border crossing between former Morning Take a stroll in the der Kulturen der Welt (p269).
East and West Berlin. A section Nikolaiviertel (p92) on the
of the Berlin Wall survives on banks of the Spree, stopping Afternoon Explore the city’s
nearby Niederkirchnerstrasse. off to see exhibits on Berlin at green lung, Tiergarten (p136),
and the nearby Zoo Berlin
(p154), which is great for both
children and adults alike. End
the day with a visit to the
church-monument Kaiser-
Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-Kirche
(pp156–7), just south of the zoo.
Day 3
Morning Travel to Kochstrasse
for Cold War nostalgia at Haus
am Checkpoint Charlie (p145).
Visit the Jüdisches Museum
(pp144–5) to learn about the
history of Berlin’s Jews, or go to
the former nerve centre of the
Nazi state, the Topographie
The exterior of the Neue Nationalgalerie in the Kulturforum des Terrors (p144).
G R E AT D AY S I N B E R L I N  13
Afternoon Take a trip to Schloss

Charlottenburg (pp164–5) and
tour the state apartments. See
decorative arts at the Bröhan-
Museum (p165) and Picassos at
the Museum Berggruen (p168)
next door. Return to dine on the
terraces around Savignyplatz
(p158) in the evening.
5 Days in Berlin
•
Discover ancient treasures
on Museum Island
•
Tread in royalty’s steps at
Schloss Charlottenburg The impressive architecture of the Sony Center, Potsdamer Platz
•
Escape the city on the
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis- Day 5
waterfront at Wannsee
Kirche (pp156–7). Take a stroll Morning Head to the Gothic
down Kurfürstendamm Marienkirche (pp96–7) to see
Day 1 (pp152–9), the main artery the medieval fresco, Dance
Morning Immerse yourself in through Berlin’s west end, home of Death. Be sure to view
art and history on Museum to fashionable boutiques. Berlin from above at the city’s
Island (pp72– 87), selecting Fernsehturm (p95). Wander
from the breathtaking array Day 3 the Nikolaiviertel area (p92),
of galleries and museums here. Morning At Bahnhof stopping off to see the exhi
Head on to Bebelplatz (p64), an Friedrichstrasse (p71), take in bition on Berlin’s history in the
imposing architectural set piece the moving “Border Experiences” city’s oldest sacred building,
celebrating Frederick the Great, exhibition. Visit the famous the Nikolaikirche (p92).
whose statue stands guard out Checkpoint Charlie (p145)
side. A little further south lies border crossing, and watch Afternoon Take the SBahn
Gendarmenmarkt (p66), Berlin’s docufilms on the Cold War era to Potsdamer Platz (pp132–5)
most beautiful square. at Haus am Checkpoint Charlie to visit the Filmmuseum Berlin
(p145). The nearby Topographie (p132) for the story of German
Afternoon Stroll down Unter des Terrors (p144) and Martin- cinema, and visit one of the
den Linden (p62), lined with Gropius-Bau (p144) were both museums at the Kulturforum
restaurants and shops. Walk used by Nazi security services. (pp118–19). The collection at
through the central arch of the Gemäldegalerie (pp126–9)
the Brandenburger Tor (p69), Afternoon Walk to the includes works by Titian, Vermeer,
and to Germany’s restored Jüdisches Museum (pp146–7), Holbein and Rubens, and is not
parliament, the Reichstag which explores the history of to be missed. In the evening,
(pp138–9). Its dome was added Berlin’s Jews, then take a break relax in Kreuzberg (pp140–49),
by Sir Norman Foster in 1999. in the Tiergarten park (p136) Berlin’s unofficial party quarter.
End the day with a visit to the and Zoo Berlin (p154).
Holocaust Denkmal (p69).
Day 4
Day 2 Morning Take the SBahn to
Morning Start at Schloss Wannsee (pp188–9) and stroll
Charlottenburg (pp164–5), to along the waterfront, or take a
the west of the city, and tour the boat trip along the Havel. The
state rooms of King Frederick I more adventurous may fancy a
and Queen Sophie Charlotte. dip in the lake. Glienicker Brücke
Art lovers are spoiled for choice (p212), famous for featuring in
with the Bröhan-Museum the spy novels of John Le Carré,
(p169), Museum Berggruen offers spectacular views.
(p168) and Museum Scharf-
Gerstenberg (p168) all nearby. Afternoon After lunch take
a ferry to Pfaueninsel‘s (p210)
Afternoon While away a happy ornamental gardens. In the
hour at the mouthwatering evening head for Prenzlauer
food hall of KaDeWe (p159). Berg (p101), and enjoy lunch
Afterwards, visit the stunning at one of the cafés on leafy Statue of the poet Friedrich Schiller in front
NeoRomanesque ruins of Kollwitzplatz (p107). of the Deutscher Dom, Gendarmenmarkt
14  INTRODUCING BERLIN Flensburg
Schleswig
Putting Berlin on the Map Husum
Rendsburg Kiel
Berlin, the capital of the Federal Republic of Germany, has a
population of approximately 3.4 million and covers 889 sq km Neumünster
(343 sq miles). Situated in the eastern part of the country, in Itzehoe

Cuxhaven
the middle of the Brandenburg region, Berlin occupies the
flatlands on the banks of the Havel and Spree rivers, Elmshorn
which merge in the Spandau district. The Wilhelmshaven

Bremerhaven Hamburg
whole city is criss-crossed
Emden
with numerous canals.
Leer
Oldenburg Bremen
Alkmaar Cloppenburg
Meppen Celle
Nienburg
(Weser)
Zwolle Lingen
Amsterdam (Ems)
NETHERLANDS Bramsche Hannover
Gronau Osnabrück Minden
Den Haag Rheine
Apeldoorn
Utrecht
Bielefeld Hildesheim
Rotterdam Arnhem
Coesfeld Münster
Kleve
Wiedenbrück
Breda
Wesel Hamm Paderborn
Eindhoven Göttingen
Essen Dortmund
Antwerp Duisburg
Venlo Hagen
Kassel
Düsseldorf Wuppertal
Brussels Leuven Köln

G E R M A N Y
Bad
Siegen Hersfeld
BELGIUM Aachen Bonn
Hennef Marburg
Liege
Charleroi Namur Wetzlar Fulda
Koblenz
Frankfurt
am Main
Hirson Wiesbaden
Aschaffenburg
Mainz
Charleville-
Mézièrs
Darmstadt Würzburg
Luxembourg Trier
FRANCE Worms
Mannheim
Europe NOR WAY
Heidelberg
Speyer
North
SWEDEN ESTONIA Saarbrücken
Sea LATVIA
Landau Heilbronn
DE NM AR K LITHUANIA
Karlsruhe Pforzheim
REP. OF UNITED BELARUS Aalen
IRELAND KINGDOM NETH.
Berlin Stuttgart
POLAND
GERMANY Baden-Baden
BELGIUM
CZECH UKRAINE Strasbourg Göppingen
REPUBLIC
SLOVAKIA
AUSTRIA
HUNGARY
Offenburg Reutlingen
Atlantic SWITZ.
FRANCE SLOV. Ulm
ROMANIA
Ocean CROATIA
BOSNIA
SERBIA
HERZ.
I T A LY MONTEN. KOS. BULGARIA
Colmar
Schwenningen Biberach
MAC.
SPAIN ALBANIA
Freiburg Tuttlingen
PORTUGAL G RE E CE
Mulhouse
Schaffhausen Konstanz
ALGERIA
MOROCCO TUNISIA
Basel SWITZERLAND
For keys to symbols see back flap Zurich
PUTTING BERLIN ON THE MAP  15
DENMARK
Berlin and Environs

Stralsund
Oranienburg
Rostock Greifswald
Bernau
Wismar Hennigsdorf
Lübeck
Nauen
Falkensee See next
Neubrandenburg
Schwerin page
BERLIN
Neustrelitz
Lüneburg Potsdam
Pritzwalk Berlin-
Schwedt/ Schönefeld
Wittenberge Oder Werder
Uelzen
Königs
See inset map, Ludwigsfelde Wusterhausen
right Oranienburg
Stendal
BERLIN
Wolfsburg Potsdam
Braunschweig Magdeburg Luckenwalde
Schönebeck Zielona Góra

Lübbenau
Goslar
Lutherstadt Cottbus POLAND
Wittenberg Żary Glogów
Nordhausen Halle Delitzsch

Hoyerswerda
Leipzig Legnica
Mühlhausen Wrocław
Naumburg Bautzen Görlitz
Döbeln
Erfurt Zeitz
Dresden
Gotha Weimar
Freiberg Wałbrzych
Gera Liberec
Chemnitz
Zwickau
Ilmenau Ústí nad Labem
Annaberg-
Buchholz
Hradec
Králové
Coburg Hof Karlovy Kladno
Vary Pardubice
Cheb Prague Kolín
Bayreuth
Bamberg Plzeň CZECH REPUBLIC
Erlangen Weiden Havlíčkův
Brod
Nürnberg Klatovy
Ansbach Jihlava
Schwandorf Tábor Brno
Cham
České
Regensburg Budějovice
Straubing
Deggendorf Key
Ingolstadt Berlin and environs
Passau
Ferry route
Landshut
National border
Augsburg Linz Autobahn (motorway)
Munich Wels
Dual carriageway
Steyr
Major road
Rosenheim Gmunden Railway
Kaufbeuren
Salzburg
Kempten
AUSTRIA 0 kilometres 100
0 miles 75
Hamburg Oranienburg
Greater Berlin REINICKENDORF

Berlin in its present form was created in 1920, through
an amalgamation of several towns and villages
surrounding the historic centre. It now consists of
12 administrative districts, some of which were formerly Berlin
Tegel Airport
separate municipalities, such as Spandau. The city is
surrounded by recreational areas, including lakes and
11
WEDDING
A1
woodlands. To the southwest lies the city of Potsdam,
with its splendid palaces, which can be reached easily
by public transport.
A100
SPANDAU e
Spre Moabit
Nauen Westend CHARLOTTENBURG

Lan
dwe
hrk
anal
2/5 Zoologischer
Garten
Charlottenburg
Halensee
Teufelsberg
A1
WILMERSDORF
00
Grunewald
BERLINER Grunewald
SCHÖNEBERG
FORST
Schmargendorf
GRUNEWALD
Friedenau
15
A1
Dahlem
STEGLITZ
Leipzig
ZEHLENDORF
1
Lichterfelde
Schlachtensee
Lankwitz
l
Potsdam
an a
wk o
Te lt
For keys to symbols see back flap

Prenzlau Eberswalde
PANKOW
Schönholz
Heinersdorf
96
96
a
109
2
WEISSENSEE
Gesundbrunnen
Gesundbrunnen
HOHEN-
SCHÖNHAUSEN
Pappelplateau
PRENZLAUER
BERG
Hauptbahnhof
Alexanderplatz 96a
Friedrichstr.
2/5
LICHTENBERG
1/5
Frankfurt /
MITTE
FRIEDRICHSHAIN Oder
1
TIERGARTEN Lichtenberg
Ostbahnhof
Rummelsburg
KREUZBERG
96
179 Spr
TREPTOW
ee
Südkreuz 96
NEUKÖLLN a
Baumschulenweg
TEMPELHOF A113
Key
Britz Central Berlin

Built-up area
Autobahn (motorway)
Major road
Minor road
Berlin-Schönefeld
Mariendorf Airport Railway line
101
96
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 1
Jüterbog Zossen
Central Berlin
Central Berlin is divided into eight colour-coded Around Schloss
sightseeing areas. The historic core is located along Charlottenburg
The Baroque Charlotten-
the eastern and northern banks of the Spree river, burg Palace, named after
around the grand boulevard Unter den Linden and Sophie Charlotte (wife
on Museum Island. West of the centre is the of Friedrich III), is one
sprawling green Tiergarten. To the south is of Berlin’s greatest
tourist attractions.
Kreuzberg, an area renowned for its alternative Its magnificent
lifestyle. Further west is Kurfürstendamm, the rooms contain many
centre of former West Berlin. Finally, at the edge beautiful objects
of the city centre is the summer residence of the (see pp160–69).
Prussian kings, the Schloss Charlottenburg.
T E G E L Spr ee
SCHLOSSPARK
ER W
EG
Schloss
Charlottenburg
ER DAMM
S PA N D A U Sp
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SAVIGNY-
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Gedächtniskirche LÜTZOW
BREITSCHEID- PLATZ
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STEN ST
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FÜR R. PLATZ
KUR
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LIE TZE NB EN STRA
B U R G ER
Kulturforum, Tiergarten
The Kulturforum is a cluster of interesting
museums and libraries. It is also the home
of the Berlin Philharmonic (see pp116–39). Around
Kurfürstendamm
The Kurfürstendamm,
or Ku’damm as it is
often called, is the main
thoroughfare of western
Key
Berlin. This area contains
Major sight numerous shops,
restaurants, bars and
cinemas (see pp150–59).
Rotes Rathaus,
East of the Centre
This monumental town
hall, which replaced the
former medieval Rathaus,
dates from the 1860s. It is
decorated with terracotta
bas-reliefs (see pp88–99).
Berliner Dom, Museum Island OD

D A N ZI
ST RA G ER
E SS E
SS ER
SCHÖNHAUSER
On this island are Berlin’s Protestant ST
RA BE
RG
ER
cathedral, with its Neo-Baroque interior ST
R.
and massive dome, and a museum R PRENZLAUER
E
BR
BERG KOLLWITZ-
U
complex (see pp72–87).

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EX
PLATZ DER Reichstag Deutsches Dom

AN
REPUBLIK
Historisches Museum
DE R S
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PLATZ re ST R
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Kunstgewerbemuseum STRASSE
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Galeries Lafayette,
MEHRINGD
Around Unter
VIKTORIAPARK den Linden
This department store on
Friedrichstrasse combines
DUDENSTR. history with ultra-modern
architecture (see pp56–71).
Viktoriapark, Kreuzberg
0 metres 500
This park is situated on a hill in the
Kreuzberg district, whose inhabitants 0 yards 500
include many Turks and eccentric
artists (see pp140–49).
ThE hISToRy oF BERlIn  21
THE HISTORY
OF BERLIN
Berlin is one of the younger European capitals. The first written reference
to the small fishing settlement of Cölln appeared in the year 1237. Together
with the equally insignificant settlement of Berlin on the opposite bank
of the Spree river, it was to become first a successful trading city under
the control of the Margraves of Brandenburg, then capital of Prussia,
and finally, the capital of Germany. Following World War II and the 1949
armistice, Berlin became a central arena for the Cold War. In 1991, after the
fall of the Berlin Wall, the city became the capital of the newly-united
Federal Republic of Germany.
Early Settlements of Berlin and Cölln grew up on opposite

During the first centuries AD the banks banks of the Spree river, around what
of the Spree and Havel rivers were is now the Nikolaiviertel (see p92).
inhabited by various tribes, most notably Trading in fish, rye and timber, the towns
the Germanic Semnones. By the end of formed an alliance in 1307, becoming
the 6th century the Semnones were Berlin-Cölln, a deal celebrated by the
competing for land with Slavic tribes, construction of a joint town hall.
who built forts at what are now the Following the death of the last
Berlin suburbs of Köpenick (see p183) and Ascanian ruler in 1319, Brandenburg
Spandau (see p177). Five hundred years became the object of a long and
later the Slavic tribes were finally defeated bloody feud between the houses of
following the arrival of the warlike Saxon, Luxemburg and Wittelsbach, with
Albrecht the Bear of the House of the devastating effects for the area’s
Ascanians, who became the first Markgraf inhabitants. In 1411 the desperate
(Margrave, or Count) of Brandenburg. townspeople appealed to the Holy
The banks of the Spree river were resettled Roman Emperor for help, receiving in
with immigrants from areas to the west response Friedrich von Hohenzollern
including the Harz mountains, the Rhine as the town’s special protector. In
valley and Franconia. 1415, Rome duly rewarded Friedrich by
naming him Elector of Brandenburg, a
Beginnings of the Modern City fateful appointment that marked the
Berlin’s written history began in the early beginning of the 500-year rule of the
13th century, when the twin settlements House of Hohenzollern.
1415 Friedrich
1134 Investiture of 1237 First 1307 Signing of 1359 Berlin von Hohenzol-
Albrecht the Bear 1197 First written the treaty and Cölln join lern appointed
mention of reference between Cölln Hanseatic Elector of
Spandau to Cölln and Berlin League Brandenburg
1100 1150 1200 1250 1300 1350 1400
1157 Albrecht the Bear 1209 First c.1260 Berlin is

defeats Slavic tribes and is documented enlarged
crowned Margrave of mention of Silver
Brandenburg Köpenick 1244 First written reference denarius
to the settlement of Berlin of 1369
Adolf von Menzel’s symbolic painting Borussia, or Prussia (1868), at the Ephraim-Palais
was formally established as the capital

of the March of Brandenburg.
Reformation and the Thirty

Years’ War
During the first half of the 16th century,
the radical religious ideas of Martin Luther
(1483–1546) spread quickly throughout
the whole of Brandenburg. In 1539 the
new Protestantism was adopted by the
Elector, Joachim II Hector, and most of
the town’s aldermen.
For a time the city grew fast, boosted by
the arrival of religious refugees from the
Netherlands, as well as Italian artists invited
by the subsequent elector, Joachim Georg.
However, successive epidemics of the
bubonic plague occurred in 1576, 1598 and
Deposition from the Cross (c.1520), a pane of a Gothic 1600, checking the town’s growth. The
polyptych from the time of the Reformation effect was compounded by the advent of
the Thirty Years’ War, which raged from 1618
The Early Hohenzollerns to 1648, turning the whole of the Holy
In 1432 Berlin and Cölln were formally Roman Empire into a bloody battlefield.
unified. By 1443 Elector Friedrich II, son of By 1627 the Elector of Brandenburg had
Friedrich I, had begun construction of the fled, relocating his court to the less
town’s first castle, the future Stadtschloss exposed town of Königsberg. By 1648 the
(see p76). This was part of his plan to make population of Berlin-Cölln had fallen to
Berlin-Cölln the capital of Brandenburg and just 6,000, its population being decimated
to reduce the powers and privileges of its by famine and disease.
citizens. Despite fierce opposition from
the local population, the castle was built. Berlin Under the Great Elector
By 1448 all opposition had been violently The fortunes of Berlin were turned by the
crushed, and in 1451 the castle became arrival of Friedrich Wilhelm von Hohen-
the Elector’s official residence. To symbolize zollern, who ascended the Brandenburg
the consolidation of Hohenzollern power, throne in 1640. Under the rule of this man,
he added an iron chain and padlock later known as the Great Elector, Berlin
around the neck of the city’s heraldic bear. experienced a period of unprecedented
By the time Friedrich’s nephew Johann growth. The city’s population rose to 20,000
Cicero became Elector in 1486, Berlin-Cölln by 1688 at the end of Friedrich Wilhelm’s
1432 Unification of 1486 Elector Johann 1539 Elector Joachim II

Cölln and Berlin Cicero makes Berlin his converts to the
permanent residence Protestant faith
1415 1465 1515 1565
1447–8 Berlin rebellion 1594 Building of the Spandau

against the Elector citadel completed
Tankard in the shape of Berlin’s
1442 Construction begins on
heraldic bear (1562)
the royal castle in Cölln
THE HISTORY OF BERLIN  23
The Capital of Prussia

The successor to the Great Elector, Friedrich III
inherited the title in 1688. Thirteen years later
he raised Brandenburg’s status to that of a
kingdom, and was crowned King Friedrich I
of Prussia. Ambitious and with a taste for
luxury, Friedrich became a powerful patron
of the arts. Under his rule Berlin acquired its
Academies of Fine Arts and Science. Artists
The former Stadtschloss (Berlin Castle), with Lange Brücke transformed the castle into a Baroque palace.
in the foreground, c.1685 The Zeughaus (see pp60–61) and the summer
palace or Schloss in Lietzenburg, later
long reign. In 1648 work started on the renamed Charlottenburg (see pp164–5),
modern fortification of the city. The Lust- were built at this time.
garten (see p76) was established opposite The next ruler of Prussia, Friedrich Wilhelm I
the Stadtschloss, and the road later to (1713–40), was unlike his father and soon
become known as Unter den Linden (see became known as the “Soldier-King”. His
p62) was planted with lime trees. The city’s initiatives were practical: Berlin was further
economic power increased following the expanded and encircled with a new wall, not
building of the canal linking the Spree and for defence but as a measure against the
Oder rivers, which turned Berlin into the desertion of conscripted citizens. Pariser Platz
hub of all Brandenburg trade. (see p69), Leipziger Platz (see p135) and
Berlin began to expand in all directions Mehringplatz (see p148) were all built at this
with the creation of new satellite towns – time, and the population reached 90,000.
first Friedrichswerder, then Dorotheenstadt The next king was Friedrich II (1740–1786),
and Friedrichstadt, all between 1650 and otherwise known as Frederick the Great or
1690. They would all be absorbed into a “Alter Fritz” (Old Fritz). An educated man
unified city of Berlin in 1709. who appreciated art, he oversaw the city’s
In 1671 several wealthy Jewish transformation into a sophisticated
families expelled from Vienna cultural centre. He was also an
settled in Berlin, while following aggressive empire builder, sparking
the 1685 Edict of Potsdam, large the Seven Years’ War of 1756–63
numbers of French Huguenots with his invasion of Silesia, during
flocked to Brandenburg, forced which Berlin was briefly occupied
out of their homeland after by Austrian and Russian troops.
Louis XIV repealed the Edict of The city’s development continued,
Nantes. Both these events came however, and at the time of
to play a major role in the future Friedrich II Friedrich II’s death in 1786, its
development of the city. (1740–86) population numbered 150,000.
1688 Establishment of the

1618–48 Thirty Years’ War new town of Friedrichstadt 1751–2 Friedrich II
introduces conscription
1668 Opening of the 1701 Coronation of Friedrich III
Spree-Oder canal as the first king of Prussia 1756–63 Seven Years’ War
1615 1665 1715 1765
1685 Edict of Potsdam 1709 Unification 1740 Coronation of

allows large numbers of of Berlin Frederick the Great
French Huguenot refugees
Silver chalice
to settle in Berlin 1696 Opening of the
(1695)
Academy of Fine Arts
(Akademie der Künste)
The Baroque Period

Berlin’s Baroque Period lasted from the second half of
the 17th century to the end of the 18th, and saw the
expansion of Berlin-Cölln from a small town, devastated
by successive epidemics of bubonic plague and the ravages
of the Thirty Years’ War, into a rich and cosmopolitan
metropolis. Population growth was rapid, aided by the
official amalgamation of Berlin-Cölln with the previously
independent communities of Dorotheenstadt, Friedrichstadt Extent of the City
and Friedrichswerder. New city walls were built, as were 1734 Today
many substantial buildings, including the Akademie der
Künste, the Charité and Schloss Charlottenburg.
Flute Concert
This painting by Adolf von Menzel
shows the arts-loving King Friedrich II
(1740–86) giving a flute recital for his
guests in the music room of the
Schloss Sanssouci.
Nikolaikirche
Frederick the Great

The famous French-born portrait
painter, Antoine Pesne, created
this portrait of Friedrich II of
Prussia, heir to the Prussian
throne, in 1739.
Rococo Tureen
This elaborate silver tureen, decorated Stadtschloss
with a gilded lemon, was made in the (Royal Palace)
Berlin workshop of Georg Wilhelm
Marggraf und Müller in 1765.
Love in the Italian Theatre (1714)

French painter Jean-Antoine Watteau
(1684–1721) was a favourite with King
Friedrich II, and as a result many of his
works can still be seen in Berlin.
Rondell (now
Mehringplatz)
Zeughaus (Former Arsenal)
The splendid Baroque Zeughaus was completed in
Oktogon (now 1730. Used to store weapons until 1875, it now houses
Leipziger Platz) the Deutsches Historisches Museum. This view of it
was painted in 1786 by Carl Traugott Fechhelm.
King Friedrich I
This medallion bears
the likeness of the
first King of Prussia
(1688–1713). The
work of sculptor
and architect
Andreas Schlüter
(1660–1714), it
adorns the
king’s tomb.
Quarré (now
Pariser Platz)
Berlin in 1740
This map shows the layout of the city’s
18th-century fortifications, with various
landmark buildings. Contrary to today’s
convention, this map was drawn with
north pointing down, rather than up.
Baroque Architecture in Berlin

Many of Berlin’s Baroque buildings
have been destroyed, but in the city
centre some fine examples still exist.
Don’t miss the Zeughaus (see pp60–61),
two fine churches in Gendarmenmarkt –
the Deutscher Dom and the Französischer
Dom (see p66) – the Parochialkirche
(see p99) and Sophienkirche (see p106).
Another Baroque highlight, even though
Unter den it is largely a reconstruction, is Schloss
Linden Charlottenburg (see pp164–5) with its
delightful park. Schloss Charlottenburg
Antique scroll depicting the grand boulevard of Unter den Linden, 1821
Beginnings of the Modern Era Congress of Vienna, Prussia enjoyed rapid

By the time Friedrich Wilhelm II (1786–97) industrialization during the next 30 years,
ascended the throne of Prussia, the country’s particularly in Berlin. By 1837 August Borsig
era of absolute rulers was nearing an end. had opened his locomotive factory in the
New trends associated with Romanticism city, and in 1838 the first train ran on the
were gaining popularity, and there was Berlin–Potsdam railway.
an explosion of ideas from outstanding Many outstanding buildings were
personalities such as writers Gotthold designed at this time by Karl Friedrich
Ephraim Lessing (1729–81) and Friedrich Schinkel (see p181), including the Neue
and August-Wilhelm von Schlegel. Wache (see p62) and the Schauspielhaus,
Throughout Europe, the French Emperor renamed the Konzerthaus (see p67). Berlin
Napoleon Bonaparte (1769–1821) was University (now Humboldt Universität)
waging war, defeating the Prussians in was established in 1810 and became a
1806 at the battles of Jena and Austerlitz. major seat of learning, attracting famous
As French troops moved in to occupy lecturers that included the philosophers
Berlin, Friedrich Wilhelm took his court to Georg Hegel (1770 –1831) and Arthur
Königsberg, while Berlin’s pride, the horse- Schopenhauer (1788 –1860).
drawn chariot (Quadriga) crowning the In 1844, however, recession hit Europe,
Brandenburg Gate, was dismantled and leaving a quarter of all Prussians in poverty.
taken to Paris. Hunger riots rocked the city in April 1847,
By the end of 1809 the royal court and in 1848 Berlin saw a people’s
had returned to Berlin and, having uprising in which over 250
received huge reparations, demonstrators were shot
Napoleon and his troops finally dead by the Prussian army.
left the city. In 1814 the
Quadriga was returned to Berlin, Building an Empire
and a year later Napoleon was In 1861 Friedrich Wilhelm IV
defeated at Waterloo. Granted the (1840–1861) was forced by
mineral-rich lands of the Rhineland Portrait of Friedrich madness to cede the throne to
and Westphalia at the subsequent Wilhelm IV his brother Wilhelm (1861–1888).
1791 Building of the 1799 Foundation 1831 1844 Opening of

Brandenburg Gate of the 1810 Berlin Cholera the Berlin Zoo
completed Bauakademie University epidemic (Zoologischer
established breaks out Garten)
1785 1800 1815 1830 1845
1830 Opening of
Enamelled box, the Altes Museum
mid-18th century 1806 Beginning of
the 2-year French 1838 Opening of the
occupation of Berlin Berlin–Potsdam railway line
Otto von Bismarck was soon appointed

Chancellor, with a foreign policy to install
Prussia in Austria’s place at the head of all
German-speaking states. In 1864 Prussia
declared war on Denmark, and successfully
acquired Schleswig-Holstein.
In 1866, following war with Austria,
Prussia established dominance over the
North German Confederation, an association
of 22 states and free towns. In 1870 Prussia
went to war with France, annexing the Poster advertising the Berlin Secession Exhibition of
provinces of Alsace and Lorraine. Bismarck’s 1900, by Wilhelm Schulz
next move was the proclamation of a
German Empire on 18 January 1871, with the completion of a new sewage system in
Berlin as its capital and King Wilhelm I as 1876, dramatically improving public health.
Kaiser (Emperor). Thanks to the colossal By 1879 electric lamps lit the streets and in
reparations paid by France and the abolition 1881 the first telephones were installed. A
of trade barriers, Berlin now entered another year later the first urban train line, the S-Bahn,
period of rapid industrial growth, accom- was opened. Berlin’s cultural and scientific life
panied by a population explosion. By 1877 flourished, headed by such outstanding
Berlin’s population had grown to one personalities as writer Theodor Fontane,
million; by 1905 it was two million. painter Adolf von Menzel and bacteriologist
Robert Koch. In 1898 Max Liebermann (see
Triumph and Disaster p69) founded the hugely influential Berlin
The late 19th century saw an explosion of Secessionist movement, with members
scientific and cultural achievement, including including Käthe Kollwitz and Max Slevogt.
As the city prospered,
political developments in
Germany and throughout
Europe were moving
towards the stalemate of
1914. Initially, the outbreak of
World War I had little effect
on the life of Berlin, but the
subsequent famine, strikes
and total German defeat led
to the November Revolution
in 1918, and the abdication
The Berlin Congress of 1878 by Anton von Werner of Kaiser Wilhelm II.
1902 Operation of the first

1871 Berlin 1878 Berlin 1888 Year of underground train (U-Bahn)
becomes the Congress three Kaisers
capital of the takes place 1914 Outbreak of
German Empire World War I
1860 1875 1890 1905 1920
1879 Technische 1918 Abdication of

Universität established Kaiser Wilhelm II
Mosaic
1882 Opening of the S-Bahn, 1907 Completion of the Kaufhaus
by Martin-
the first urban train line des Westens (KaDeWe)
Gropius-Bau
Capital of the German Empire

On 18 January 1871, Berlin became capital of the newly
established German Empire, fulfilling the expansionist
ambitions of the Prussian Chancellor Otto von Bismarck.
Bringing together many previously independent German-
speaking regions, the new Empire stretched beyond the
borders of present-day Germany into what are now France,
Poland, Russia and Denmark. Massive reparations paid by
France after her defeat in the Franco-German war of 1870 Extent of the City
stimulated the rapid growth of a fast-industrializing Berlin, 1800 Today
accompanied by an explosion of scientific and artistic
invention. Standing at just 300,000 in 1850, by 1900 the
city’s population had reached 1.9 million.
House of Hohenzollern
Mosaics depicting the
Hohenzollern rulers
decorate the bombed
remains of the Kaiser-
Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-
kirche (see pp156–7),
completed in 1895.
The Stadtschloss
The Stadtschloss was the royal Prussian
residence at the declaration of the nobles
Prussian Empire in 1871. Decorating
the Rathausbrücke, in the fore-
ground, was the magnificent
statue of the Great Elector now
in the courtyard of Schloss
Charlottenburg (see pp164–5).
Members of
Parliament
Neptunbrunnen
This exuberant fountain
Riehmers Hofgarten (see p94), created by
In the late 19th century a huge sculptor Reinhold Begas
number of buildings were in 1891, was a present to
erected, from tenement blocks Wilhelm II from the Berlin
to grand buildings like this one. town council.
Hackescher Markt Station

Formerly called Bahnhof Börse, this is
one of Berlin’s first S-Bahn stations,
built to a design by Johannes
Vollmer and opened in 1902.
Vase with Portrait of Wilhelm II

Designed by Alexander Kips and bearing a
portrait of Kaiser Wilhelm II, this vase was
mass-produced at the Berlin Königliche-
Porzellan-Manufaktur. Pieces were often
presented to visiting heads of state.
Empress
Augusta
Victoria
Heir to the
throne,
Wilhelm Black mourning
clothes for women
and black armbands
for men were
obligatory after the
deaths of the two
Kaisers, Wilhelm I and
Friedrich III, in 1888.
Diplomatic
corps
Prussian Chancellor Kaiser Wilhelm II

Otto von Bismarck
Opening of the Reichstag

This enormous canvas, painted by Portrait of
Anton von Werner in 1893, portrays Charlotte Berend
Kaiser Wilhelm II giving a speech to in a White Dress
the Members of Parliament, nobles The arts flourished
and other dignitaries at the official in the years before
opening of the Reichstag. This World War I. This
important event took place only 1902 portrait of an
11 days after the coronation of actress is by Berlin
the new Kaiser. artist Lovis Corinth.
scene. Leading figures in theatre included

Max Reinhardt and Bertolt Brecht, while
from the UFA film studio came such
classics as The Cabinet of Dr Cagliari and
Metropolis. Jazz was popular, and the Berlin
Philharmonic gained worldwide fame.
Architecture flourished with Walter Gropius
and Bruno Taut, and scientists Albert
Einstein, Carl Bosch and Werner Heisenberg
The burning of one of the thousands of buildings belonging to were all awarded the Nobel Prize.
Jews on Kristallnacht, November 1938
The Third Reich
The Weimar Republic The world stockmarket crash of October
On 9 November 1918 two politicians 1929 and the ensuing Depression put the
simultaneously proclaimed the birth of fragile German democracy under great
two German Republics. Social democrat pressure, paving the way for extremist
Philipp Scheidemann announced the politicians. On 30 January 1933 Adolf Hitler
founding of a Democratic Republic, while was appointed Chancellor. The Reichstag
hours later Karl Liebknecht, founder of the fire in February was used as a pretext to
German communist movement, declared arrest communist and liberal opponents,
the Free Socialist Republic of Germany. and, by March 1933, Hitler’s Nazi (National
Rivalries between the two groups erupted Socialist German Workers) Party was in
in January 1919 in a week of rioting, control. Books by “unGerman” authors were
crushed by the Freikorps army who also burned, and works of art deemed as
brutally murdered Liebknecht and fellow “degenerate” removed from museums.
Communist leader Rosa Luxemburg. The 1936 Olympic Games in Berlin were
In February 1919 the National meant as a showcase for
Assembly elected Social Demo Aryan supremacy. Although
crat Friedrich Ebert President of Germany won 33 gold
the German Republic. In 1920 medals, the real hero of the
urban reform dramatically Games was the black US
increased the size of Berlin, athlete Jesse Owens.
causing the population to swell The effects of the Nazi
to 3.8 million. Like the rest of the regime were felt particularly
country, the city fell on hard by Jews and intellectuals,
times, with rising unemploy many of whom were forced
ment and hyperinflation. to emigrate. On the night of
Despite this, the city became Nazi propaganda poster of Hitler, 9–10 November 1938, known
the centre of a lively cultural printed in 1938 as Kristallnacht (Night of the
1926 The Funkturm (radio 1938

1919 tower) is opened Kristallnacht 1945 Germany surrenders on 8 May 1961
Proclamation on the night Construction of
of the Weimar 1930 Opening of the of 9–10 24 June 1948–12 May 1949 the Berlin Wall
Republic Pergamonmuseum November Soviet blockade of Berlin on 13 August
1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970
1928 Premiere of The 1933 Hitler 1942

Threepenny Opera by accedes to power Wannsee 1971 “Basic Treaty”
Bertolt Brecht Conference allows travel from
1939 Outbreak of World West to East Berlin
1920 Urban reform War II on 1 September Poster depicting the
creates Greater Berlin German race
French troops, putting the city at the centre

of the Cold War. On 24 June 1948 the Soviet
authorities, in their attempt to annex the
whole city, introduced a blockade of its
Western sectors. The Allies responded
with the Berlin Airlift, which thwarted
Historic buildings at the Gendarmenmarkt destroyed by the Soviet plans. On 12 May 1949 the
British and American bombs, 1945–6 blockade was lifted. The same year saw the
birth of the Federal Republic of Germany,
Broken Glass), thousands of synagogues, with its capital in Bonn, and the German
cemeteries, Jewish homes and shops were Democratic Republic (GDR), with the capital
looted and burned. in East Berlin. West Berlin remained as a
separate enclave. On 17 June 1953 workers’
World War II strikes in the GDR and East Berlin turned
Hitler’s invasion of Poland on 1 September into an uprising which was bloodily
1939 signalled the start of World War II. For crushed. In 1961, the GDR authorities
the citizens of Berlin, food shortages were surrounded West Berlin with a wall, and
followed in August 1940 by British air raids. shot at any refugees attempting to cross it.
By 1941 the government policy of the mass
deportation of Jews to concentration Reunification
camps had started. Homosexuals, priests The political changes that occurred all over
and Romany gypsies were also targeted. Eastern Europe in 1989 led to the fall of the
In January 1942, following a conference Berlin Wall. On 3 October 1990, Germany
at Wannsee (see p188), the systematic was officially reunified and Berlin once
extermination of all European Jews began. again became the capital. The government
The unsuccessful attempt to assassinate moved to the city in 1991.Today, Berlin’s
Hitler in 1944 led to Nazis murdering many cutting-edge cultural scene in art, design,
members of the German resistance. fashion, theatre, music and nightlife attracts
After nearly four years of bitter warfare, visitors from all over the world.
the tide began to turn against the Germans.
In April 1945 more than 1.5 million Soviet
soldiers invaded Berlin. On 30 April Hitler
committed suicide, and Germany
conceded defeat.
Berlin Divided
The Potsdam Conference of 1945 (see p201)
divided Berlin into four sectors, occupied
respectively by Soviet, US, British and Celebrations as the Berlin Wall falls, 9 November 1989
1990 Official reunification of Germany, 3 October

2008 Opening of new
1991 Berlin becomes the German capital,
1987 Celebration of US embassy on Pariser
20 June
Berlin’s 750th Platz marks complete
anniversary 1994 Allies leave Berlin restoration of the square
1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1989 Fall of the Berlin 2014 Germany wins the World Cup;
Wall, 9 November celebration of the 25th anniversary of
the fall of the Berlin Wall
1999 The Federal German 2006 Berlin hosts the
Trabant – the most Parliament assembles at the FIFA World Cup
popular car in the GDR rebuilt Reichstag in April 2004 Reopening of the Olympiastadion Berlin
INTRODUCING BERLIN  33
BERLIN AT A GLANCE
More than 150 places of interest are help you make the most of your stay, the
described in the Area by Area section of this following 16 pages provide a time-saving
book. These range from historic monuments guide to the very best that Berlin has to
such as the Nikolaikirche (see p92) to modern offer. Museums and galleries, historic
landmarks like the ambitious showcase buildings, parks and gardens, modern
architecture of the Potsdamer Platz district architecture, the legacy of the divided
(see pp132–5); from the peace of the Botanical city and famous Berliners all feature in
Garden (see p186) to the noisier charms of this section. Below is a selection of top
Berlin’s long-established zoo (see p154). To ten attractions that no visitor should miss.
Berlin’s Top Ten Attractions
Schloss Charlottenburg
Pergamonmuseum See pp164–5.
See pp82–5. Kunstgewerbe-
museum
See pp122–5.
Gemäldegalerie Nikolaiviertel Zoo Berlin

See pp126–9. See pp90–91. See p154.
Brandenburger Tor
See p69.
Fernsehturm Reichstag Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-Kirche

See p95. See pp138–9. See pp156–7.
Old master paintings at Gemaldegalerie at Kulturforum

Berlin’s Best: Museums and Galleries

Berlin boasts some of the finest museums in Kunstgewerbemuseum
the world. Since 1990 most of the collections The arts and crafts
collection at the Kunst-
previously split between East and West Berlin
gewerbemuseum
have been brought together in new venues. (see pp122–5) is among
One example is the Gemäldegalerie, which the most interesting
has a magnificent collection of Old Master in Europe. One of its
many treasures is
paintings. Berlin’s major museum complexes
this 17th-century
are located on Museum Island, around Schloss gold elephant-
Charlottenburg and at the Kulturforum. shaped vessel.
Around Schloss
Charlottenburg
Tiergarten
Around
Kurfürstendamm
0 metres 750
Museum Berggruen 0 yards 750
Housed in two historic buildings opposite the

Schloss Charlottenburg, this museum hosts
one of the world’s leading collections of
20th-century art. Works on display include
pieces by Picasso, Klee, Matisse and Cézanne
(see pp168–9).
Gemäldegalerie
This world-famous collection illustrates
the history of European painting from the
13th to the 18th centuries. Originally part
of a triptych, The Adoration of the Magi
(1470) was painted by Hugo van der Goes
(see pp126–9).
B E R L I N AT A G L A N C E  35
Hamburger Bahnhof Pergamonmuseum

Featuring artists such as Joseph This museum owes its name to the
Beuys and Andy Warhol, as well as reconstructed Pergamon Zeus Altar
the renowned Friedrich Christian (see pp82–5). Ongoing renovations
Flick Collection, this art mean the hall containing the
museum is housed in the Pergamon Altar will be
former Hamburger closed until 2019.
railway station
(see pp114–15).
Altes Museum
The ground floor
North of of Karl Friedrich
the Centre Schinkel’s Neo-
Classical
building has
been used
since 1998 to
exhibit a
collection of
East of the Greek and Roman
Centre antiquities (see p77).
Around
Unter den Linden Museum
Island
Deutsches Historisches Museum

Kreuzberg The Baroque Zeughaus contains the
Museum of German History. Everyday
objects as well as works of art
are used to illustrate historical
events (see pp60–61).
Deutsches
Technikmuseum
The development of Jüdisches Museum
a range of industrial Berlin’s Jewish museum was
technologies, from designed by Daniel Libeskind,
locomotive-building an American architect of
to brewing, is illustrated Jewish descent. The form of
in this entertaining the building is based on the
museum (see p148). Star of David (see pp146–7).
Exploring Berlin’s Museums

Despite being damaged during World War II, Berlin’s
numerous museums are still among the finest, and the most
heavily subsidized, in the world. Many collections were split
up when the city was partitioned in 1946, and although the
process of bringing them together again is almost complete,
a few collections are still scattered around different sites
Many of the older museums are also being refurbished.
and Italian sculpture is located

Ancient Art in the Bode-Museum, while
The art of ancient Egypt is the Alte Nationalgalerie Picasso’s Head of the Faun (1937) in the
shown at the Ägyptisches (Old National Gallery) displays Museum Berggruen
Museum (Egyptian Museum). 18th- and 19th-century art,
The jewel of this museum, including paintings by the paintings and sculptures by
which is housed in the German Romantics, Surrealists such as Salvador Dalí,
Neues Museum, is amongst which are René Magritte and Max Ernst.
the bust of Queen famous landscapes The Brücke-Museum displays
Nefertiti. The by Caspar David works from the German
19th-century Altes Friedrich. The Neue Expressionist movement by
Museum contains a Nationalgalerie, closed artists such as Ernst Ludwig
large Greek and Roman for renovations until Kirchner, Max Pechstein and Emil
antiquities collection, 2020, is filled with Nolde, and contemporary art is
as does the Pergamon- late 19th- and early exhibited in the Hamburger
museum – note that due to 20th-century paintings Bahnhof. German sculpture
museum renovations and sculpture. Art from the Weimar era and postwar
there is no access to the Nouveau and Art Deco German Modernism are subjects
Pergamon Zeus altar works are featured at of the Georg-Kolbe-Museum
until 2019, but visitors the Bröhan-Museum, and the Kunsthaus Dahlem.
can see several other The famous bust while works by modern Arts and crafts, from the
reconstructed of Nefertiti, greats, such as Pablo Middle Ages to the present,
architectural wonders, Neues Museum Picasso, Paul Klee and are displayed at the Kunstge-
including the Market Georges Braque, are on werbemuseum (Museum of
Gate from Miletus and the huge show at the Museum Berggruen Applied Arts). The Bauhaus-
Babylonian Ishtar Gate. (Berggruen Museum). The Archiv displays applied arts
Museum Scharff-Gerstenberg from the influential interwar
has a great collection of Bauhaus movement.
Fine Art and Design
Berlin’s largest collection of
13th- to 18th-century European
painting is displayed in the
Gemäldegalerie (Picture
Gallery). Here are works by
old masters including Dürer,
Rembrandt, Titian, Botticelli
and Caravaggio. In the same
museum complex is the
Kupferstichkabinett, with
drawings and prints from the
Middle Ages to the present.
Old masters can also be seen
in the Jagdschloss Grunewald,
a Renaissance palace home to
German and Dutch paintings
from the 14th to 19th centuries.
A substantial collection of
predominantly 17th-century
paintings is housed in the
Bildergalerie (Gallery of
Paintings) in Potsdam. German Étienne Chevalier with St Stephen by Jean Fouquet, Gemäldegalerie
Other museums worthy of Finding the Museums

a visit include the Newton
Sammlung, which contains Ägyptisches Museum (in the
the life’s work of the Berlinborn Neues Museum) p80
20thcentury photographer Alliiertenmuseum p186
Alte Nationalgalerie p80
Helmut Newton, and the
Altes Museum p77
Berlinische Galerie, which
BauhausArchiv p131
showcases modern art and
Berlinische Galerie p145
architecture. Bildergalerie (Potsdam) p200
BodeMuseum p81
BrechtWeigelGedenkstätte p112
History
BröhanMuseum p169
The Märkisches Museum BrückeMuseum p184
highlights the fascinating Centrum Judaicum p104
history and culture of Berlin Deutsches Historisches
and the surrounding region. Dinosaur skeleton on display at the Museum pp60–61
The collection housed at the Museum für Naturkunde Deutsches Technikmuseum p148
Deutsches Historisches Domäne Dahlem p185
Museum (Museum of German is situated in a large site around Filmmuseum Berlin p132
History) traces German history a former railway station. German Gemäldegalerie pp126–9
from the Middle Ages to the movie history (including props, GeorgKolbeMuseum p178
Hamburger Bahnhof pp114–15
present. The Hugenotten clips and original costumes worn
Haus am Checkpoint
museum (Huguenot Museum), by filmstars) is presented at the
Charlie p145
located in the tower of the Filmmuseum Berlin. Technology
Haus der Wannsee
Französischer Dom, charts the buffs should pay a visit to the Konferenz p188
history of the city’s Huguenots. Museum für Kommunikation Hugenottenmuseum p66
The Centrum Judaicum (Museum of Communications). Jagdschloss Grunewald p214
(Jewish Centre) in the Neue Jüdisches Museum pp146–7
Synagogue (New Synagogue), Kunstgewerbemuseum
and the Jüdisches Museum Specialist Subjects pp122–5
(Jewish Museum), in a striking Berlin is not short of specialist Kunsthaus Dahlem p185
building by Daniel Libeskind, museums. There are museums Kupferstichkabinett p121
are devoted to Jewish history devoted to laundry, sugar and Märkisches Museum p86
and cultural heritage. even hemp. Lovers of theatre Museum Berggruen p168
The Topographie des Terrors and literature can visit the one Museum für Naturkunde p113
(Topography of Terror) exhibition time home of Bertolt Brecht Museum für
is displayed at the site of the (1898–1956), now the Brecht Kommunikation p68
Museum Scharff
former Gestapo and SS head Weigel Gedenkstätte (Brecht
Gerstenberg p168
quarters. A deeply shocking Weigel Memorial). Worth a visit
Musikinstrumenten
collection of documents to marvel at the magnificent
Museum p120
concerning the Holocaust is Wurlitzer organ alone is the Neue Nationalgalerie p130
kept at the Haus der Wannsee MusikinstrumentenMuseum Neues Museum p80
Konferenz. The tools of terror used (Musical Instruments Museum). NewtonSammlung p155
on the citizens of the German The outdoor Domäne Dahlem Pergamonmuseum pp82–5
Democratic Republic can be seen (Dahlem Farm Museum) displays StasiMuseum p175
at the StasiMuseum, while the three centuries of local farm life Topographie des Terrors p144
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie and exhibits oldfashioned tools.
(House at Checkpoint Charlie)
museum tells the stories of those
who crossed the Berlin Wall.
The Alliiertenmuseum focuses
on life during the Cold War.
Technology and
Natural History
The Museum für Naturkunde
(Museum of Natural History)
has over 30 million exhibits,
including the world’s biggest
dinosaur skeleton. Also popular
with visitors is the Deutsches
Technikmuseum (German
Technology Museum), which A wide array of exhibits in the Musikinstrumenten-Museum
Berlin’s Best: Historic Architecture

Berlin is a relatively new city. It expanded slowly until
the first half of the 19th century, and then grew with
increasing rapidity from around 1850 onwards.
Although many of the city’s finest architectural
treasures were destroyed by World War II bombing,
it is still possible to discover many interesting historic
buildings (for more information, see pp40–41). In
nearby Potsdam (see pp192–207) you can visit the
splendid Schloss Sanssouci. Set in magnificent
parkland, the palace was built for Friedrich II
(1740–1786) and extended by subsequent rulers.
The construction of this Baroque
royal palace at Charlottenburg began
in 1695. Subsequent extension works
took place throughout the
18th century (see pp164–5).
Around Schloss
Charlottenburg
Tiergarten
Around
Kurfürstendamm
0 metres 750
0 yards 750
Schloss Bellevue
This Rococo palace
by Michael Philipp
Boumann is now the
official residence of the
President of the Federal
Republic of Germany.
Schloss Sanssouci Potsdam Palaces

This small palace was the
favourite residence of The summer palace of
Friedrich II. Schloss Sanssouci gives
its name to Potsdam’s
PARADIES-
GARTEN
Park Sanssouci, a royal
Schloss
Sanssouci complex with highlights
Neues PARK
Palais SANSSOUCI including the grand 18th-
century Neues Palais and
PARK
CHARLOTTENHOF the small but charming
The Reichstag
Schloss Charlottenhof.
Schloss
Charlottenhof This massive Neo-Renaissance
building was designed in 1884 by
Neues Palais Paul Wallot. Its elegant dome is
The Neues Palais combines elements of the work of British architect
Baroque and Neo-Classical style. Norman Foster (see p138).
Zeughaus
This Baroque arsenal houses the
Deutsches Historisches Museum
(see pp60–61). Its courtyard contains
masks of dying warriors by sculptor
Andreas Schlüter (1660–1714).
Marienkirche
This Gothic church,
founded in the 13th
century, contains a
striking 15th-century
mural. It is one of the
city’s oldest buildings
North of (see pp96–7).
the Centre
East of the Centre

Around Unter
den Linden
Museum
Island Rotes Rathaus
Berlin’s main Town Hall is
named “red” after the colour of
its brick exterior, not the political
persuasion of the mayor (see p92).
Kreuzberg Berliner Dom

This enormous cathedral, built
between 1894 and 1905, is an
example of the Neo-Renaissance
style in Berlin (see pp78–9).
Brandenburger Tor
This Neo-Classical gate stands at the end of Konzerthaus
Unter den Linden. Crowned by a Quadriga Built in 1820 to replace a theatre destroyed by fire,
(chariot) driven by the Goddess of Victory, this beautiful building on the Gendarmenmarkt was
it is the symbol of Berlin (see p69). designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel (see p67).
Exploring Berlin’s Historic Architecture Baroque Expansion

Until the industrial revolution of the late 19th century, The Thirty Years’ War (1618–48)
Berlin was little more than a small town surrounded put a temporary stop to the
by villages. As a result, the city’s oldest buildings are town’s development, and it
concentrated in the central core around Unter den Linden was not until the Peace of
1648 that new building work
and along the Spree river, an area which suffered heavy in the Baroque style began.
damage during World War II. Older country residences, One of the first of the city’s
however, as well as some important more recent buildings, Baroque buildings is the late-
can be seen in former villages such as Wedding and 17th-century Schloss Köpenick.
Charlottenburg, which now form part of Greater Berlin. More buildings followed, many
of which survive today. They
early 15th century. A further ten include the Parochialkirche,
village churches, most dating the Deutscher Dom and the
from the 13th century, can be Französischer Dom, as well as
found hidden among high-rise the magnificent Zeughaus,
apartment buildings. St Annen- built between 1695 and 1730.
Kirche in Dahlem, however, still During this period Andreas
enjoys an almost rural setting. Schlüter (1664–1714) designed
The few surviving secular the now-demolished Stadt-
structures include fragments of schloss (Royal Palace), while
the city walls in the city centre, Johann Arnold Nering (1659–
and the Juliusturm in 95) designed Schloss
Spandau, a huge, Charlottenburg.
early 13th-century Other surviving
tower which stands Baroque palaces
14th-century Gothic doorway of the in the grounds of include Palais
Nikolaikirche in the Nikolaiviertel the Spandau Citadel. Podewils and Schloss
Berlin’s only surviv- Schönhausen.
ing Renaissance One of the few
Middle Ages and buildings are the buildings dating from
Renaissance Ribbeckhaus with its the reign of Friedrich
The Nikolaikirche is the oldest four picturesque gables, Wilhelm I (1713–40) is the
building in central Berlin. The the Jagdschloss- Kollegienhaus at Linden-
base of its massive front tower Grunewald, a modest strasse No. 14, designed
is Romanesque and dates back hunting lodge designed Detail of the by Philipp Gerlach and
to about 1230, although the by Casper Theyss in 1542, Zeughaus built in 1733. During
church itself is Gothic and was and the Spandau Citadel the reign of Friedrich II
built between 1380 and 1450. (or fortress), a well-preserved (1740–86), many buildings
The second Gothic church in example of Italian-style military were erected in the late
the city centre is the Marien- defence architecture. Finished Baroque and Rococo styles.
kirche. Nearby are the ruins of in 1592, the construction of the These include Schloss Sans-
a Franciscan friary and the Citadel was begun in 1560 by souci in Potsdam and the Alte
Heiliggeistkapelle. Many Christoph Römer using plans by Bibliothek building on Unter
medieval churches outside the Italian architect Francesco den Linden, which completed
city centre have survived the Chiaramella da Gandino. It was the Forum Friedericianum
war. Among the most beautiful is brought to completion by project, now better known as
the late Gothic St-Nikolai-Kirche Rochus Guerrini Graf zu Lynar Bebelplatz (see pp58–9).
in Spandau, dating from the (the Count of Lynar).
Neo-Classicism and
Romanticism
The Neo-Classical architecture
of the late 18th and early
19th centuries has given Berlin
much of its basic form. One
dominant figure of this period
was Carl Gotthard Langhans
(1732–1808), creator of the
Brandenburg Gate and of
Schloss Bellevue. Even more
influential, however, was Karl
Renaissance-style defence, the Citadel building at Spandau Friedrich Schinkel (see p181).
His work includes some of

Berlin’s most important public
buildings, including the Neue
Wache, the Altes Museum
and the Konzerthaus. Many
of Schinkel’s residential
commissions are also still
standing, with some, such as
Schloss Klein Glienicke and
Schloss Tegel, open to the
public. Schinkel’s Neo-Gothic
work includes Schloss Babels-
berg and the Friedrichs- Elegant Neo-Classicism at Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s Schloss Klein Glienicke
werdersche Kirche.
building and in Ernst von Ihne’s Historic Buildings
Staatsbibliothek building.
Industrialization and Julius Raschdorff’s Berliner AEG-Turbinenhalle p179
the Modern Age Dom shows Neo-Baroque Alte Bibliothek p64
The second half of the 19th influences. Much of the religious Alte Nationalgalerie p80
century was a time of rapid architecture of the period Altes Museum p77
Berliner Dom pp78–9
development for Berlin. After continued in the Neo-Gothic
Brandenburg Gate p69
Schinkel’s death, his style, while Franz
City walls p99
work was continued Schwechten designed
Deutscher Dom p67
by his students the Kaiser-Wilhelm- Einsteinturm p206
Ludwig Persius Gedächtnis-Kirche Franciscan friary p98
(1803–45) and in the Neo- Französischer Dom p66
Friedrich August Romanesque style. Friedrichswerdersche
Stüler (1800–65). Many structures of Kirche p65
Stüler designed Decorative frieze on the this period are built Haus des Rundfunks p179
the Neo-Classical Martin-Gropius-Bau in the Modernist Heiliggeistkapelle p94
Alte Nationalgalerie style inspired by the Hufeisensiedlung p183
between 1866 and 1876. Industrial Revolution, the Jagdschloss-Grunewald
Some splendid Neo- textbook example being the pp214–15
Romanesque and Neo-Gothic huge power station, AEG- Juliusturm p177
churches and several notable Turbinenhalle, designed by Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-
public buildings in various Peter Behrens in the 1890s. Kirche pp156–7
Konzerthaus p67
styles were also produced at
Marienkirche pp96–7
this time. The spirit of the Italian
Neo-Renaissance is seen in the Between the Two Martin-Gropius-Bau p144
Rotes Rathaus designed by World Wars Neue Wache p62

Nikolaikirche pp92–3
Hermann Friedrich Waesemann, The greatest architectural Olympiastadion p178
and in the Martin-Gropius-Bau, achievements of this period Onkel-Toms-Hütte p186
of 1877 by Martin Gropius. Late include a number of splendid Palais Podewils p99
Neo-Renaissance features are housing estates, such as the Parochialkirche p99
used in Paul Wallot’s Reichstag Hufeisensiedlung designed by Reichstag pp138–9
Bruno Taut and Martin Wagner Ribbeckhaus p81
in 1924, and Onkel-Toms-Hütte Rotes Rathaus p92
in Zehlendorf. An interesting Schloss Babelsberg pp212–13
example of the Expressionist Schloss Bellevue p137
style is Erich Mendelsohn’s Schloss Charlottenburg
Einsteinturm in Potsdam. Art pp164–5
Deco is represented by Hans Schloss Klein Glienicke pp212-13
Schloss Köpenick p183
Poelzig’s Haus des Rundfunks,
Schloss Sanssouci (Potsdam)
the country’s first Broadcasting
pp202–3
House. Hitler’s rise to power in
Schloss Schönhausen p172
the 1930s marked a return to Schloss Tegel p180
the classical forms that were to Spandau Citadel p177
dominate German architecture of Staatsbibliothek p63
the Fascist period. Represen- St Annen-Kirche (Dahlem) p184
tatives of this period include the St Nikolai-Kirche (Spandau)
Tempelhof Airport Terminal p177
building and the Olympia- Tempelhof Airport p149
20th-century Neo-Renaissance detail of the Stadion, built for the 1936 Zeughaus pp60–61
massive Berliner Dom Olympic Games.
Reminders of the Divided City

In 1945, as part of the post-war peace process, Berlin
was divided into four zones of occupation: Soviet,
American, British and French. Hostilities erupted in
June 1948, when the Soviets blockaded West Berlin
in an attempt to bring the area under their control.
The ensuing year-long standoff marked the start of
the Cold War. By the 1950s, economic problems in the
East had led to bloodily suppressed riots and a mass
exodus to the West. In 1961 the East German
government constructed the infamous Berlin Wall
(die Mauer) to contain its citizens. Between this time Berlin Wall
and reunification at the end of 1989, more than Protected to the east by land mines, the
Wall, known by the East German authorities
180 people were shot trying to cross the Wall. as the “Anti-Fascist Protection Wall”,
surrounded West Berlin and was
155 km (95 miles) long (see p113).
Memorial to Soviet Soldiers
Part of West Berlin, the area around this
monument to Red Army troops killed
in the 1945 Battle of Berlin was closed
for many years due to attacks on its
Soviet guards (see p139).
Around Schloss
Charlottenburg
Tiergarten
0 km 1
0 miles 0.5 Around

Kurfürstendamm
Key
Berlin Wall
Berlin Before Reunification

French Sector
The Wall cut the city in half, severing its
main transport arteries, the S-Bahn and
Soviet
U-Bahn lines. West Berliners were excluded
Sector
from the centre of the city. Running along
British
the Wall was a no-man’s-land.
Sector
Key
Berlin Wall
American
Sector boundaries
Sector
Airport
Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears)

Until 1989 the Tränenpalast, next to
the final S-Bahn station in East Berlin,
was a border checkpoint for S-Bahn
passengers heading west.
Checkpoint Charlie
This border crossing between the
American and Soviet sectors was
used by foreign citizens and
diplomats. It was the location of
many dramatic events during the
years of the Cold War (see p145).
North of the
Centre
East of the
Centre
East Side Gallery
The longest remaining section of
Around Unter the Berlin Wall became an open-air
den Linden gallery in 1990, covered with an
Museum Island eclectic mixture of paintings by
118 artists (see p175).
Kreuzberg
Luftbrücke
This striking memorial
commemorates those
who died during the
Berlin Airlift of 1948–9.
Allied planes delivered
2.3 million tons of
supplies to West Berlin in Haus am Checkpoint Charlie
the face of the year-long This museum holds photos
Soviet blockade (see p149). and other Wall memorabilia,
including a selection of
escape vehicles (see p145).
Berlin’s Best: Modern Architecture

Following Berlin’s devastation in World War II, intense
post-war reconstruction turned the city into a giant
building site. With the help of architects from several
countries the city acquired many modern structures
and estates, ranked among the best in the world. The
city’s reunification in 1990 and the reinstatement of
Berlin as the main seat of government gave rise to a
second wave of building activity, carried out on a
scale unprecedented in Europe. The architectural elite
are participating in the design of the new Berlin, and
the sites in the city centre that stood empty until 1990
are being filled with buildings at an incredible rate.
Bauhaus-Archiv
This cubist structure was completed in
1978 to house the Bauhaus museum.
It was designed much earlier by Walter
Gropius (1883–1969), director of the
Bauhaus art school from 1919 to 1928.
Kammermusiksaal
Around Schloss
Charlottenburg
Tiergarten
Around
Kurfürstendamm
Gemäldegalerie
Kant-Dreieck Nordische Botschaften

This building, with its pure forms Built between 1997 and 1999, the five interconnected
and the eccentric sail-like structure embassies of the Scandinavian countries are an example
mounted on the roof, is the work of daring architectural design. The building’s green shutters
of Josef Paul Kleihues. adjust to the intensity and direction of available sunlight.
Galeries
Lafayette
This elegant
department store
in Friedrichstrasse,
designed by Jean
Nouvel, brings
Parisian chic to
the heart of Berlin.
Kammermusiksaal
Both the Berliner Philharmonie building (1961)
and the adjacent Kammermusiksaal, or chamber
music hall (1987), were designed by Hans
Scharoun. The latter was built posthumously
by Edgar Wisniewski, Scharoun’s pupil.
North of the
Centre
East of the Centre
Quartier Schützenstrasse
Around Unter Museum This part of the city features the
den Linden Island work of Italian architect Aldo Rossi.
With high-rise blocks and bold
colour schemes, the area shows
modernity and classical forms
standing side by side.
0 metres 750
Kreuzberg 0 yards 750
Gemäldegalerie
The Gemäldegalerie, designed by the Hilmer
and Sattler Partnership, opened in June
1998. The main hall is particularly elegant.
Sony Center
This ultra-modern steel-and-glass building was
designed by German-American architect Helmut
Jahn. It houses offices, entertainment venues, the
Kaisersaal and Sony’s European headquarters.
Exploring Berlin’s Modern Architecture Post-Reunification

Around the world architects are forever designing buildings Architecture
with innovative and interesting structures, but in Berlin this The government district was
creative process occurs on an unprecedented scale. The city constructed within the bend
is a melting pot of trends and styles, where the world’s of the Spree river. Its designers
greatest architects scramble for commissions and where include Charlotte Frank and
Axel Schultes. The Reichstag
buildings compete with each other in the originality building has been famously
of their form and in their use of the latest technology. remodelled by Norman Foster.
Pariser Platz has been filled
with designs by Günther
Behnisch, Frank O Gehry, Josef
Paul Kleihues and others. The
magnificent Friedrichstadt-
passagen complex became
the scene of rivalry between
Jean Nouvel and Oswald
M Ungers. Many interesting
office buildings have sprung
up around town, including
Haus der Kulturen der Welt in the Tiergarten Ludwig-Erhard-Haus by
Nicholas Grimshaw and the
constructed in 1965, East nearby Kant-Dreieck by Josef
From 1945 to 1970 Berlin had its Fernsehturm Paul Kleihues. Housing has
World War II exacted a heavy (television tower), built in 1969. also been transformed, with
price from Berlin. The centre perhaps the most original
was reduced to rubble and example being Aldo Rossi’s
the partitioning of the city From 1970 to 1990 Quartier Schützenstrasse.
made it impossible to carry out The continuing rivalry between The city has also acquired some
any coordinated reconstruction. East and West resulted in the fine museums, including the
In 1952, East Berlin decided to construction of East Berlin’s Gemäldegalerie designed by
develop Karl-Marx-Allee in the now demolished Palast der the Hilmer and Sattler Partner-
Socialist-Realist style. In reply, Republic in 1976. The West ship, and the Deconstructivist
West Berlin employed the replied with the ultra-modern style Jüdisches Museum,
world’s greatest architects to Internationales Congress designed by Daniel Libeskind.
create the Hansaviertel estate. Centrum in 1979. The Kultur-
Le Corbusier built one of his forum complex was further
unités d’habitation, while the extended with designs by
Modern Architecture
American architect, Hugh Scharoun, including the Bauhaus-Archiv p131
A Stubbins, built the Kongress- Kammermusiksaal and the Europa-Center p154
halle (now the Haus der Staatsbibliothek (library). Fernsehturm p95
Kulturen der Welt). The West’s The impressive Bauhaus- Friedrichstadtpassagen p67
response to the cultural Archiv was developed from
Gemäldegalerie pp126–9
venues inherited by the East a design by Walter Gropius. In
Hansaviertel p137
Berliners, including the opera, 1987 Berlin celebrated its 750th
Haus der Kulturen der Welt
the library and the museums, anniversary, which in the East
p138
was the Kulturforum complex. saw the completion of the huge
The complex included such Nikolaiviertel development, Jüdisches Museum pp146–7
magnificent buildings as the with its pre-war allusions. In Kammermusiksaal p120
Philharmonie, designed by the West, the Internationale Kant-Dreieck p152
Hans Scharoun, and the Neue Bauaustellung’s 1987 scheme Karl-Marx-Allee pp174–5
Nationalgalerie, designed by gave the town its enormous Kulturforum pp118–19
Mies van der Rohe. While West Post-Modernist housing estates Ludwig-Erhard-Haus pp154–5
Berlin acquired its huge “trade in Kreuzberg and also in the Neue Nationalgalerie p130
temple”– the Europa- Tegel area. Nikolaiviertel p92
Center, Pariser Platz p69
Philharmonie p120
Quartier Schützenstrasse p45
Reichstag pp138–9
Staatsbibliothek p120
Tegel harbour site p180
Neue Nationalgalerie at Kulturforum designed by Mies van der Rohe
Potsdamer Platz
Between 1993 and 1998, a financial, business and entertainment district was erected
on the once vast and empty wasteland around Potsdamer Platz. It boasts splendid
constructions designed by Renzo Piano, Arata Isozaki and Helmut Jahn. As well as office
blocks, the area has many public buildings, including cinemas and a theatre, as well as
a huge shopping centre – the Arkaden – plus luxury hotels, restaurants and several bars.
The Beisheim Center

is a mix of exclusive
apartments and
international hotels.
The Sony
Center
POTSDAMER
P L AT Z
Bahn Tower
Designed by Helmut Jahn,
BE
this is the most modern SE

AS
building in Potsdamer TR
N–
E R S
Platz and is curved on one M
GU
DA
side and flat on the other. TS
PO
RI
ON
Kollhoff Tower, which is the

–S
tallest building in Potsdamer

TR
Platz, was designed by

AS
the architects Kollhoff &

Timmermann Partnership.
SE
Arkaden, opened in autumn

1998, immediately became
one of the city’s favourite
shopping centres.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
L
A
N
D
W
E
H
The Debis House R
K
This office block was designed A
N
by Italian architect Renzo Piano. A
L
Berlin’s Best: Parks and Gardens

Berlin is undoubtedly one of Europe’s greenest
capital cities, with the sprawling Tiergarten at its
centre. Most of Berlin’s districts have their own
smaller parks and gardens, too, some of them with
children’s play areas and nature trails. To the west of
the city is the vast Grunewald, a beautiful area of
forest which contains mountain bike trails and
scenic paths for walkers and cyclists. In summer,
numerous lakes, rivers and canals provide excellent
facilities for water sports.
The well-maintained grounds Zoologischer Garten
of this royal palace were Popular with children, Berlin’s zoo has
designed in the French some 14,000 animals, representing
Baroque style (see pp164–5). 1,400 different species. It is the oldest
zoo in Germany (see p154).
Around Schloss
Charlottenburg
0 metres 1000
Around
Kurfürstendamm
0 yards 1000
Gutspark Britz
The landscaped park, with its
Botanischer Garten beautiful lime-tree avenue,
Established from surrounds the early
1899 to 1910 in 18th-century Schloss
Dahlem, this Britz (see p183).
botanical garden is
one of the biggest in
the world (see p186).
Park Babelsberg
This vast landscaped park
was designed by Peter Joseph
Lenné, and now lies within the
Potsdam city limits. It surrounds
the picturesque Schloss
Babelsberg (see pp212–13).
Tiergarten
Once a hunting reserve, this was converted
into a park after 1818 by landscape designer
Peter Joseph Lenné (see p136).
Monbijoupark
The park once surrounded
Monbijou Palace, which
was destroyed during
World War II (see p105).
North of the
Centre
East of the
Centre
Around Unter
den Linden Museum
Island
Tiergarten
Kreuzberg Tierpark Friedrichsfelde

In 1954 the park at Schloss
Friedrichsfelde was
converted into the East
Berlin Zoological Garden
(see pp182–3).
Viktoriapark
This large park winds around a hill with good views of Kreuzberg.
At its peak stands a memorial to the wars of liberation fought
against Napoleon (see p149).
BERLIN THROUGH THE YEAR

Like all major European capitals, Berlin is a good time for serious sightseeing. In
offers a wide range of activities throughout winter, the temperature drops and visitors
the year. The best seasons for cultural and spend time visiting museums or wrap up
sporting events are spring and autumn, warm and simply walk around the city. The
when the city hosts many spectacular fairs streets teem with shoppers during the
and exhibitions. During summer the city’s run-up to Christmas. A more detailed
population shrinks, as many locals head for programme of events can be obtained
their holiday destinations. But the weather from tourist information offices (see p278)
is often pleasant, and rarely very hot, so this or at www.visitberlin.de.
1963, and provides a platform

for theatre productions from
German-speaking regions
around the world.
Gallery Weekend (early May).
More than 50 galleries all over
the city open their doors to
showcase contemporary art.
Big 25 Berlin (early May). Started
in 1981 as a 25-km (15-mile)
street run, this event now also
includes a half-marathon and
a 10-km (6-mile) run. All events
start at the Olympiastadion
and mostly wind through
The Karneval der Kulturen in the streets of Kreuzberg the Western part of the city.
EMBRACE BERLIN Tango
Festtage (around Easter weekend). Community Festival (mid-May).
Spring A series of popular concerts and Seven days of round-the-clock
In springtime, Berlin holds many operas performed by world-class tango at various venues.
interesting fairs and cultural musicians in the Philharmonie Berliner Frauenlauf (late May).
events in its squares, parks and and at the Staatsoper. Also known as AVON-Lauf, this
gardens, allowing the visitor to Neuköllner Maientage female-only fun-run goes
appreciate fully the beauty of (Apr–May), Hasenheide. through the Tiergarten.
the city as the trees and flowers Traditional springtime festival Karneval der Kulturen (Whitsun
burst into life. With the arrival celebrating the new season. weekend, late May/early Jun).
of the warmer weather, another Köpenicker Winzerfest (end Apr). For three days, the streets of
natural resource becomes Sample top wines, gourmet food Kreuzberg district are brought
popular with cruise and rowing and live music in the charming to life by singing and dancing
boats operating on the Spree old town square of Köpenick, in this display celebrating
river and the city’s canals. a district in southeast Berlin. multicultural Berlin.
Britzer Baumblüte (Apr/May)
March is a month-long spring festival
ITB-Internationale Tourismus- organized in Britz, a suburb in
Börse (mid-Mar). The biggest the south of the city famous
European fair devoted to for its gardens.
tourism where representatives
from around the world try to May
attract visitors to their countries. 1 Mai (1 May). The traditional May
März Musik (mid-Mar) is a Day celebrations are especially
music festival that explores significant in Berlin. They have
the concept of time through become a day of widespread
contemporary art, live music demonstrations by activists,
and film projects. workers and curious tourists. Most
of the daytime demonstrations
April are peaceful, but Kreuzberg
Easter (exact date varies). Markets should be avoided at night.
open around the Kaiser-Wilhelm- Theatertreffen Berlin (May).
Gedächtniskirche, Alexanderplatz This important Berlin theatre Street recitation of poetry during the
and other central locations. festival has been running since Theatertreffen Berlin in May
BERLIN THROUGH THE YEAR  51
Average Daily Hours of Sunshine

Hours Hours
Sunshine Chart
12 12
In Berlin, the highest
number of sunny
9 9 days occurs in May,
but June, July and
6 6 August also enjoy
good weather. The
3 3 cloudiest month is
December, followed
0 0 by January and
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec November.
extravagant outfits, held around

Summer Ku’damm. At night, the party
Summertime in Berlin is marked continues until late in the city’s
by many open-air events. There many gay clubs and Kneipen.
are concerts of classical music Classic Open Air (mid-Jul).
and opera performances, jazz Concerts and operas on Gen-
festivals and sports events, an darmenmarkt, complemented
annual air show, a series of by events in Waldbühne.
open-air concerts, and festivals Foreign Affairs (mid–Jul).
for the young. It is also possible An international festival of
to take advantage of the good high-quality modern theatre
weather by taking a walk or and dance, held at the Haus
bicycle ride in the Grunewald, der Berliner Festspiele.
or swimming in the lakes of Konzertsommer im Englischen
Wannsee or Müggelsee. Garten (early Jul–end Aug). Ku’damm full of revellers on Christopher
Free open-air concerts in Street Day
the Tiergarten.
Pop-Kultur (end Aug). Lively
August music festival that brings together
Deutsch-Amerikanisches different genres, held across three
Volksfest (late Jul–mid-Aug). days at various clubs around the
A programme of entertainment Neukölln district (see p270).
with an American theme that Jüdische Kulturtage (end Aug–
always draws the crowds. early Sep). A festival devoted to
Lange Nacht der Museen (late Jewish arts and culture with films,
Aug). Berlin’s museums stay open plays, concerts and lectures.
An outdoor artist at work in the until midnight, and some until Kreuzberger Festliche Tage
Potsdamer Platz 2pm, on the last Saturday of the (end Aug–early Sep). This is a
month. There are shuttle buses large multi-event festival of art
June to take visitors on special tours. and music held in Kreuzberg.
Deutsch-Französisches
Volksfest (early Jun–mid-Jul).
German-French folk festival
near Kurt-Schumacher-Damm.
Staatsoper für alle (late Jun).
Free open-air concert by
Staatskapelle Berlin on Bebelplatz.
Luft-und Raumfahrtaus-
stellung Berlin-Brandenburg
(Jun/Sep, check in advance).
This biannual festival and air
show of civil, military and space
craft fills the skies above Berlin
Brandenburg airport.
July
Christopher Street Day (Jul)
features a gay and lesbian
parade with revellers in Prokofiev’s The Love of Three Oranges performed in the Komische Oper
Average Monthly Rainfall Rainfall Chart

The lowest amount of
mm Inches
rainfall occurs in Febru-
100 4
ary and again in April, as
the temperature begins
75 3 to rise. The amount of
rain in September can
50 2 dampen the enthusi-
asm of the unprepared
25 1 visitor. Unexpectedly
heavy cloudbursts can
0 0 also occur during the
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec summer months.
Internationales
Autumn Stadionfest (early
Autumn in Berlin is marked Sep). Held in the
by major cultural events. In Olympiastadion since
September the city’s hotels fill the 1920s, this sports
with visitors arriving for the festival is one of the
Berliner Festwochen, to hear world’s oldest and
concerts given by some of the most popular athletics
world’s top artists and to make meetings, attracting
the most of the wide range of world-class athletes.
culture on offer. Autumn is also Internationales
a time for major sports events, Literaturfestival
including the Berlin-Marathon, (mid-Sep). Readings
the third biggest in the world and events featuring
after New York and London. old and new writing
from around the world.
September Berlin Art Week
Internationale Funkausstellung (mid-Sep). Exhibitions Participants in the September Berlin-Marathon
(early Sep). High-tech media and fairs organized
and computer fair held at the by the city’s art bodies Berlin-Marathon (3rd Sun
exhibition grounds of Messe offer insights into its busy in Sep). This international event
Berlin near the Funkturm. gallery scene. attracts thousands of runners
Bach Tage Potsdam (early Sep) Musikfest Berlin (mid-Sep). and brings the city’s traffic to
features around 30 concerts of Orchestras and ensembles from a halt for several hours.
Johann Sebastian Bach’s music, across the world take part in this
performed in concert halls impressive classical music event, October
in Potsdam. It lasts nine days. held mostly at the Philharmonie. Tag der Deutschen Einheit
(3 Oct). Berlin celebrates the
reunification of Germany with
street festivals.
Festival of Lights (mid-Oct).
Dozens of modern and historical
buildings are illuminated. The
opening ceremony is spectacular.
Haupstadt Turnier (late Oct).
International horse-jumping.
Berlin Salsa Congress (late Oct–
early Nov). Five days of salsa
shows and more.
November
Jazzfest Berlin (early Nov).
Held annually since 1964, this
respected jazz festival kicks off
in the Haus der Kulturen der
Welt (see p138).
Treffen Junge Musik-Szene
(early Nov). Music for the
Marching through the Brandenburg Gate on Tag der Deutschen Einheit younger generation.
BERLIN THROUGH THE YEAR  53
Average Monthly Temperature Temperature Chart

Average maximum and
°C °F minimum temperatures
25 80 are shown here. The
20 70 warmest months are
15 60 June, July and August,
10 50 when the temperature
exceeds 20ºC. Winters are
5 40
cold and temperatures
0 30 can drop below –5ºC in
–5 20 January, with the chance
–10 10 of heavy snowfalls or
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec extreme frost.
Winter
Berlin’s winters are usually cold
and the temperature can some
times drop to below zero, with
a carpet of snow covering the
streets. During December, the
city prepares for Christmas with
many traditional markets. January
brings numerous Carnival
balls, while the major event in
February is a great cinema gala
– the Berlin International Film
Festival, Berlinale.
December
Weihnachstmärkte (throughout Berlinale – the grand festival of world cinema
Dec). In the month before
Christmas the city is dotted with February Berlinale – Internationale
picturesque fairs and festive Sechs-Tage-Rennen (early Feb). Filmfestspiele (2nd and 3rd
stalls selling Christmas gifts and This meeting in the Velodrome week in Feb). This gala of
regional culinary specialities. features a sixday bicycle race cinematography brings
Christmas (Weihnachten) and other events. international movie stars to
(24–26 Dec). As in many other Transmediale (early Feb) is a Berlin and showcases the best
European cities, Berlin’s traditional busy festival of digital culture films of the season. The festival
celebrations include Christmas and electronic music. is held in tandem with the
trees, presentgiving, family Berlin Motorrad Tage (mid-Feb). Internationales Forum des
gatherings and communal feasts. Motorcyclists from all over Jungen Films, which is a
New Year’s Eve (Silvester) Germany converge on Berlin platform for promoting and
(31 Dec) is celebrated across for this specialist event and fair. featuring lowbudget movies
Berlin, in hotels, restaurants, and the best short films of
clubs and in private homes; the year.
another traditional activity is the
popping of champagne corks at
Public Holidays
the Brandenburg Gate while
watching the fireworks. Neujahr New Year (1 Jan)
Karfreitag Good Friday
January Ostermontag Easter Mon
Berliner Neujahrslauf (1 Jan).
Tag der Arbeit Labour Day
For those unaffected by the
(1 May)
previous night’s revelry, this
4km (2.4mile) run along Christi Himmelfahrt
the city streets starts off at Ascension Day
the Brandenburg Gate. Pfingsten Whitsun
Internationale Grüne Woche Tag der Deutschen Einheit
(last week of Jan). This giant (3 Oct)
agriculture and food fair Weihnachten Christmas
provides an ideal opportunity Christmas shopping in the KaDeWe (25 & 26 Dec)
to sample worldwide delicacies. department store
The Reichstag dome from the inside
berlin area by
area
Around Unter den Linden 56–71

Museum Island 72–87
East of the Centre 88–99
North of the Centre 100–115
Tiergarten 116–139
Kreuzberg 140–149
Around Kurfürstendamm 150–159
Around Schloss
Charlottenburg 160–169
Further Afield 170–189
AROUND UNTER DEN LINDEN

The area around the grand avenue Unter Friedericianum (later Bebelplatz). Over the
den Linden is among the most attractive following two centuries Unter den Linden
in Berlin. Its development began in the became one of the city’s most imposing
Baroque period with the establishment avenues. World War II bombing took a heavy
of Dorotheenstadt to the north and toll, but despite only partial reconstruction
Friedrichstadt to the south. From the early by the East German government, the area
18th century, prestigious buildings began to is still home to the highest concentration
appear here, and work started on the Forum of historic buildings in Berlin.
Sights at a Glance
Churches Historic Buildings and Sites Restaurants
q St-Hedwigs-Kathedrale 3 Neue Wache see pp232–3
r Friedrichswerdersche Kirche 4 Humboldt Universität 1 Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt
y Französischer Dom 5 Reiterdenkmal Friedrichs 2 Bocca di Bacco
i Deutscher Dom des Grossen 3 Borchardt
Museums and Galleries 6 Staatsbibliothek 4 Chipps
8 Altes Palais 5 Cookies Cream
1 Zeughaus (Deutsches Historisches
9 Alte Bibliothek 6 Dressler
Museum) (pp60–61)
e Kronprinzenpalais 7 Fischers Fritz
7 Deutsche Bank KunstHalle
p Mohrenkolonnaden 8 Kaffeehaus Einstein
s Museum für Kommunikation
a Spittelkolonnaden 9 Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer
Streets and Squares g Brandenburger Tor 10 Das Meisterstück
2 Unter den Linden h Holocaust Denkmal 11 Nante-Eck
0 Bebelplatz v Palais am Festungsgraben 12 Quarré
t Gendarmenmarkt Others 13 Samadhi
f Pariser Platz 14 Vau
o Friedrichstadtpassagen
15 Zwölf Apostel
Theatres d Ehemaliges Regierungsviertel
w Staatsoper Unter den Linden j Hotel Adlon Kempinski
u Konzerthaus k Russische Botschaft
l Komische Oper z Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse
x Admiralspalast
c Maxim Gorki Theater
AM K UPF E R GRABEN
GESCHWIS R.
SCHOLL-ST
PL AN
CKS
TER-
T R.
Friedrich- GE OR GE NST
R.
e E R
re UF strasse HEGEL-
S p S TA G PLATZ See also Street Finder
FR IED RI CH
H
IC STR .
RE DO RO TH EEN
NEU STÄ DTIASS E
maps 8 & 9
KIR CH STR
W ILH EL MS
NS TR .
DO RO TH EE
DOROTHEEN- MI TTE LST
R.
SCH E
ST R.
STR.
Brandenburger LINDEN
TR .
Tor R DEN 0 metres 400

PARISER UNTE BEBEL-
PLATZ PLATZ
0 yards 400
RASSE
BEHRENST
9•12 MITTE WERDERSCHER
SE
SS E CHE STRAS MARKT
BE H R E N S
TRA Französische FRANZÖSIS
WIL
Strasse
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GENDARMEN-
FRIEDRICH
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TRAS
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TAU BEN STR
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SSE
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SSE
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MO HRE NST R.
SE
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LS
Mohrenstrasse MO HRE NST R. TR
. Spittelmarkt
Stadtmitte .
KRO NEN STR
ENSTR.
. SPITTEL-
KRO NEN STR
STRASSE
RASS E MARKT
VOSS ST
Potsdamer LEIPZIGER
Platz
STRASSE
LEIPZIGER
SE
LEIPZIGER
STRASSE
AS
KRAUSEN
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POTSDAMER PLATZ
TR
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HEL
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Potsdamer
Platz STRASSE
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MST
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TRASSE
RAS
ZIMMERS
TRASSE
SE
ZIMMERS
STR.
NIEDER KIRCHNER
Schiller’s monument and Französischer Dom, Gendarmenmarkt For keys to symbols see back flap
58 І BERLIN AREA BY AREA
Street-by-Street: Around Bebelplatz

The section of Unter den Linden between Schlossbrücke and
Friedrichstrasse is one of the most attractive places in central
Berlin. There are some magnificent Baroque and Neo-Classical
buildings, many of which were designed by famous architects.
There are also several restored palaces that are now used
as public buildings. Of particular interest is the beautiful
Baroque building of the Zeughaus (the former Arsenal),
which now houses the German History Museum.
4 Humboldt Universität
6 Staatsbibliothek
This Neo-Baroque The entrance to the courtyard is
building, designed by framed by two guardroom
Ernst von Ihne, was pavilions and is crowned with
built between 1903 the allegorical figures of
and 1914. It houses a Dawn and Dusk.
collection that dates
from the 17th century.
UN
IV
ER
SI
TÄ
TS
CH
ST
A
RL
RA
O
SS
5 Equestrian Statue
TT
of Frederick the Great

E
EN
This impressive statue

ST
dates from 1851 and is

RA
the work of Christian

Daniel Rauch.
SS
E
EN
ND
LI
7 Deutsche Bank N
KunstHalle DE
R
Formerly known as Deutsche TE
UN
Guggenheim, this building
provides a space for contem-
porary art exhibitions.
E
SS
RA
ST
N
RE
H
BE
8 Altes Palais
This Neo-Classical
palace was built
between 1834
and 1837 for the 9 Alte Bibliothek
future Kaiser The west side of Bebelplatz features a
Wilhelm I. It was Baroque building with an unusual
reconstructed after concave façade. Locals have
World War II. nicknamed it the “chest of drawers” .
AROUND UNTER DEN LINDEN І 59
NORTH OF THE CENTRE

3 Neue Wache
Since 1993, this monument
has served as a memorial to all
MUSEUM
victims of war and dictatorship. ISLAND
AROUND UNTER
DEN LINDEN
KREUZBERG
Locator Map
1 . Zeughaus (Deutsches See Street Finder maps 8 & 9
Historisches Museum)
A wing designed by I M Pei has
been added to this beautiful
Baroque building. The Zeughaus 0 metres 100
pediment shows the Roman 0 yards 100
goddess of wisdom.
2 Unter den Linden Key

This magnificent avenue
Suggested route
was replanted with four
rows of lime trees in 1946.
EN
ND
LI e Kronprinzenpalais
N
DE The rear elevation of
R the palace pavilion
TE
UN features a magnificent
portal from the
dismantled
Bauakademie
building.
H
IN
TE
R
D
ER
KA
TH
,
KI
RC
BEBELPL ATZ
H
E
w Staatsoper Unter
den Linden
Unter den Linden’s opera house is
Germany’s oldest theatre building
not attached to a palace residence.
r . Friedrichswerdersche
Kirche
This Neo-Gothic church was
designed by Karl Friedrich
Schinkel, the architect of so
many of Berlin’s notable
0 Bebelplatz 19th-century buildings.
Designed in the 18th
century as the Forum
Friedericianum, this square
was renamed in 1947 in q St-Hedwigs-Kathedrale
honour of social activist Bas-reliefs (1837) by Theodore
August Bebel. The Nazis Wilhelm Achtermann adorn the
burned books here in 1933. cathedral’s supports.
60  BERLIN AREA BY AREA
1 Zeughaus (Deutsches Historisches Museum)

This former arsenal was built in the Baroque style in
1706 under the guidance of Johann Arnold Nering,
Martin Grünberg, Andreas Schlüter and Jean de
Bodt. It is a magnificent structure; its wings
surround an inner courtyard and the exterior is
decorated with Schlüter’s sculptures. Since 1952
it has housed the German History Museum, which
has a permanent exhibition that contains more
than 8,000 objects about German history.
In the adjacent exhibition hall, designed by
I M Pei, are the museum’s temporary exhibitions
about significant historical events.
. Martin Luther
This portrait, painted
by Lucas Cranach
the Elder in 1529,
is the focal point
of the exhibition
devoted to the
Reformation.
. Gloria Victis
The death of a friend in
the final days of the
Franco-Prussian War
(1870–71) inspired
French artist Antonin
Mercié to create this
moving allegory.
Prisoner’s Jacket
This jacket, which
once belonged to a
concentration camp
prisoner, is used to
illustrate the horrors
of the Nazi regime.
AROUND UNTER DEN LINDEN  61
Saddle
This valuable
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
mid-15th-century
saddle is
Unter den Linden 2.
decorated with
Map 9 A3.
graphic carved
Tel 20 30 40.
plaques made
∑ dhm.de
of ivory.
Open 10am–6pm daily.
Transport
 &  Friedrichstrasse. 
First floor Hackescher Markt. @ 100, 200.
Europa
A group of Meissen
porcelain figurines,
depicting the continents,
possibly designed by
Johann Joachim Kändler.
Unter den Linden

Carl Traugott Fechhelm’s painting shows
Berlin’s grandest avenue, Unter den Linden,
at the end of the 18th century.
Key
Early Civilizations and
the Middle Ages
1500–1648
1648–1789
1789–1871
1871–1918
Museum
cinema 1918–1945
1945–1949
1949 to present day
Non-exhibition rooms
Ground floor
Gallery Guide
The ground floor houses exhibits from 1918 to
the present. The first floor contains collections
Steam Engine dating from early history to the beginning of the
The history of the Industrial Revolution 20th century. A subterranean pathway links
is illustrated with exhibits such as this the Zeughaus to the temporary exhibitions
1847 steam-powered engine. in the exhibition hall.
Unter den Linden as depicted in Franz Krüger’s Opernplatz Parade (1824–30)
2 Unter den Linden finest examples of Neo-Classical Son, by Berlin artist Käthe
Map 8 E3, 8 F3.  &  Branden-
architecture in Berlin. The front Kollwitz, who lost her own son
burger Tor. @ 100, 200, TXL. of the monument is dominated in World War I.
by a huge Doric portico with a
One of the most famous streets frieze made up of bas-reliefs
in Berlin, Unter den Linden depicting goddesses of victory. 4 Humboldt
starts at Schlossplatz and runs The triangular tympanum above Universität
down to Pariser Platz and the the pediment shows allegorical Humboldt University
Brandenburg Gate. It was once representations of Battle,
Unter den Linden 6. Map 9 A3.
the route to the royal hunting Victory, Flight and Defeat. Tel 20930.  &  Friedrichstrasse.
grounds that were later The building was originally @ 100, 200.
transformed into the Tiergarten. used as a royal guardhouse,
In the 17th century the street but during 1930 and 1931 it The university building was
was planted with lime trees, was turned into a monument constructed in 1753 for Prince
to which it owes its name. to the soldiers killed during Heinrich of Prussia, the brother
Although removed around World War I. In 1960, following of Frederick the Great. The
1658, they were replanted in its restoration, Neue Wache university was founded in 1810
four rows in 1820. became the Memorial to the on the initiative of Wilhelm von
During the 18th century, Victims of Fascism and Milit- Humboldt. It became the Berlin
Unter den Linden became the arism. Then, in 1993 it was University but was renamed in
main street of the westward- rededicated once again, this von Humboldt’s honour in 1949.
growing city. It was gradually time to the memory of all The overall design of the
filled with prestigious buildings victims of war and dictatorship. palace, with its main block and
that were restored after World Inside the building is a granite the courtyard enclosed within
War II. Following the reunifi- slab over the ashes of an a pair of wings, has been
cation of Germany, Unter den unknown soldier, a resistance extended many times. Two
Linden has acquired several fighter and a concentration marble statues (1883) by Paul
cafés and restaurants, as well as camp prisoner. Under the Otto stand at the entrance gate
many smart new shops. This circular opening in the roof and represent Wilhelm von
street is also the venue for many is a copy of the 20th-century Humboldt (holding a book)
interesting outdoor events; it is sculpture Mother with her Dead and his brother Alexander
usually crowded with tourists
and students browsing the
bookstalls around the Wilhelm and Alexander von Humboldt
Humboldt Universität and The Humboldt brothers rank among the most
the Staatsbibliothek. distinguished Berlin citizens. Wilhelm (1767–1835)
was a lawyer and politician, occupying various
government posts. It was on his initiative that the
3 Neue Wache Berlin University (later renamed Humboldt
University) was founded, and he conducted
Unter den Linden 4. Map 9 A3.  studies in comparative and historical
Hackescher Markt. @ 100, 200. linguistics there. Alexander (1769–1859),
Open 10am–6pm daily. a professor at the university, researched
natural science, including meteorology,
This war memorial, designed by
oceanography and agricultural science.
Karl Friedrich Schinkel and built
between 1816 and 1818, is Statue of Alexander von Humboldt
considered to be one of the
(sitting on a globe), who was a politicians, scientists and artists. during World War II and under
famous explorer. The entrance The top tier of the plinth is went extensive restoration.
gate leads to the courtyard, decorated with basreliefs The collection, numbering
which was designed by depicting scenes from the life 3 million books and periodicals,
Reinhold Begas. of Frederick the Great. Out of was scattered during the war.
Many famous scholars have line with GDR ideology, the A collection of priceless music
worked at the university, monument was removed to manuscripts ended up in
including philosophers Fichte Potsdam, where until 1980 it the Jagiellonian Library in
and Hegel, physicians Rudolf stood by the Hippodrome in Krakow, Poland.
Virchow and Robert Koch, and Park Sanssouci. After the war only part of
physicists Max Planck and the collection was returned
Albert Einstein. Among its to the building in Unter den
graduates are Heinrich Heine, 6 Staatsbibliothek Linden, and the rest was held in
Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels. State Library West Berlin. Since reunification,
After World War II, the both collections are once again
Unter den Linden 8. Map 9 A3.
university was in the Russian Tel 2660.  &  Friedrichstrasse.
under the same administration.
sector of the divided city and @ 100, 200. Open 9am–9pm Mon–
the difficulties encountered by
7 Deutsche Bank
Fri, 9am–5pm Sat.
the students of the western
zone led to the establishment The nucleus of the State Library KunstHalle
of a new university in 1948 – collection was the library
Unter den Linden 13–15. Map 9 A3.
the Freie Universität (see p186). belonging to the Great Elector, Tel 202 09 30. Open 10am– 8pm daily.
Friedrich Wilhelm, founded in  &  Friedrichstrasse. @ 100, 200.
1661 and situated in the & free on Mon.
Stadtschloss. At the end of the
18th century it was moved to After completing its successful
the Alte Bibliothek building. collaboration with the
Its current home was designed Guggenheim Foundation,
by Ernst von Ihne and con Deutsche Bank has opened
structed between 1903 and its own gallery which showcases
1914 on the site of the Academy its private 56,000piece collect
of Science and the Academy ion, called “Art Works”. The
of Fine Arts. This impressive collection comprises valuable
building was severely damaged works of German Modernism.
Humboldt University courtyard with statue

of Hermann von Helmholtz
5 Reiterdenkmal
Friedrichs
des Grossen
Equestrian Statue of
Frederick the Great
Unter den Linden. Map 9 A3.  & 
Friedrichstrasse. @ 100, 200.
This is one of the most famous

monuments in Berlin, featuring
a massive bronze statue 5.6 m
(18.5 ft) in height and standing
on the centre lane of Unter
den Linden. It was designed
by Christian Daniel Rauch and
created between 1839 and
1851. It depicts Frederick the
Great on horseback, wearing
a uniform and a royal cloak.
The base of the high plinth is
surrounded by statues of
famous military leaders, The ivy-clad Staatsbibliothek building on Unter den Linden
by writers such as Thomas and

Heinrich Mann, Robert Musil
and Lion Feuchtwanger.
Today, a monument at the
centre of the square, designed
by Micha Ullman, commemo-
rates this dramatic event. A
translucent panel inserted into
the road surface provides a
glimpse of a room filled with
empty bookshelves. Next to it is
a plaque bearing the tragically
A window with a heraldic shield on the Altes Palais prophetic words of the poet
Heinrich Heine, written in 1820:
8 Altes Palais row of massive Corinthian “Where books are burned, in the
The Old Palace pilasters. The building now end people will burn.”
houses the law faculty of
Unter den Linden 9. Map 9 A3.  &
Humboldt University.
 Friedrichstrasse. @ 100, 200. q St-Hedwigs-
Closed to the public.
Kathedrale
This Neo-Classical palace, 0 Bebelplatz St Hedwig’s Cathedral
near the former Opernplatz Map 9 A3.  &  Friedrichstrasse. Bebelplatz. Map 9 A4. Tel 203 48 10.
(Bebelplatz), was built for the @ 100, 200.  &  Hausvogteiplatz. @ 100,
heir to the throne – Prince 200, TXL. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat,
Wilhelm (later Kaiser Wilhelm I). Once named Opernplatz (Opera 1–5pm Sun.
The Kaiser lived here all his life. Square), Bebelplatz was to be
He was able to watch the the focal point of the intended This huge church, set back from
changing of the guards every Forum Friedericianum, an area the road and crowned with a
day from the ground-floor designed by Georg Wenzeslaus dome, is the Catholic Cathedral
window on the far left. von Knobelsdorff to mirror the of the Roman Archdiocese of
The palace, built from 1834 grandeur of ancient Rome. Berlin. It was built to serve the
to 1837, was designed by Carl Although the initial plans were Catholics of Silesia (part of
Ferdinand Langhans. Its splendid only partly implemented, many present-day Poland), which
furnishings were destroyed important buildings rose became part of the Kingdom of
during World War II but the around the square with the Prussia in 1742 following defeat
palace was subsequently passage of time. in the Silesian Wars of 1740–63.
restored and is now used by On 10 May 1933 Opernplatz The initial design, by Georg
Humboldt Universität. was the scene of the infamous Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff,
book-burning act organized by was similar to the Roman
the Nazi propaganda machine. Pantheon. Construction began
9 Alte Bibliothek Some 25,000 books written in 1747 and the cathedral was
The Old Library by authors considered to be consecrated in 1773, although
enemies of the Third Reich were work continued on and off until
Bebelplatz. Map 9 A3. Tel 20 93 0.
 &  Friedrichstrasse.
burned. These included works 1778. Its design was modified
@ 100, 200.
The Old Library, known by locals

as the Kommode or “chest of
drawers” after its curved façade,
is actually one of the city’s most
beautiful Baroque buildings.
It was designed by Georg
Christian Unger and built
around 1775 to house the
royal library collection. In fact,
Unger based his design on an
unrealized plan for an extension
to the Hofburg complex in
Vienna by Josef Emanuel Fischer
von Erlach some 50 years earlier.
The concave façade of the
building is accentuated by
the insertion of three breaks,
surrounded at the top by a The façade of St-Hedwigs-Kathedrale featuring beautiful bas-relief sculptures
repeatedly. Later, additional

work was carried out from 1886
to 1887. The cathedral was dam-
aged during World War II, and
rebuilt between 1952 and 1963.
The crypt holds the tombs
of many bishops of Berlin, a
16th-century Madonna and a
Pietà dating from 1420. It is also
the resting place of Bernhard
Lichtenberg, a priest killed in
a concentration camp and
beatified as a martyr by Pope
John Paul II.
The imposing façade of the Kronprinzenpalais
e Kronprinzen- Bertelsmann, as part of their

palais Berlin headquarters.
Joined to the main palace by
Crown Prince’s Palace
an overhanging passageway is
Unter den Linden 3. Map 9 A3. the smaller Prinzessinnenpalais
 &  Friedrichstrasse. @ 100, (Princesses’ Palace), built for
200, TXL. Closed to the public. the daughters of Friedrich
Wilhelm III. The café is an
This striking late Neo-Classical excellent place for a coffee
palace takes its name from its and pastry break.
original inhabitants – the heirs
Bas-relief of Apollo and Mars on the façade to the royal, and later to the
of the Staatsoper imperial, throne. Its form is the r Friedrichswerd-
outcome of numerous changes ersche Kirche
w Staatsoper Unter made to what was originally
Werderscher Markt. Map 9 B4. Tel 266
den Linden a modest house dating from
1663–9. The first extensions, 42 42 42.  &  Friedrichstrasse.
State Opera House @ 100, 147, 200, TXL. Closed until
designed in the late Baroque
Unter den Linden 7. Map 9 A3. further notice. & 7
style, were conducted by
Tel 20 35 40.  &  Friedrichstrasse. Philipp Gerlach in 1732 and
@ 100, 200, TXL. Closed for 1733. Between 1856 and 1857 This picturesque church,
restoration until October 2017. Johann Heinrich Strack added designed by Karl Friedrich
the second floor. These Schinkel and constructed
The early Neo-Classical façade extensions were rebuilt between 1824 and 1830, was
of the State Opera House is one following World War II. the first Neo-Gothic church
of the most beautiful sights The palace served the royal to be built in Berlin. The small
along Unter den Linden. It was family until the abolition of the single-nave structure, with its
built by Georg Wenzeslaus von monarchy. From 1919 to 1937, it twin-tower façade, resembles
Knobelsdorff in 1741–3 as the was used by the Nationalgalerie. an English college chapel.
first building of the intended Under Communist rule it was Further Gothic details, including
Forum Friedericianum. After a renamed Palais Unter den the zinc-tipped finials on the
fire, the opera house was Linden and reserved for official roof, were added by Schinkel’s
restored from 1843 to 1844 govern-ment guests. It was pupil Friedrich August Stüler.
under the direction of Carl here, on 31 August 1990, that Schinkel’s original interior was
Ferdinand Langhans, who the pact was signed paving the largely destroyed in World War II,
altered only its interior. way for reunification to begin. but in the 1980s a great deal
Following wartime Next to the palace, with the of restoration work was done,
destruction, the opera house prestigious address of Unter including the recovery of
was rebuilt from 1952 to den Linden 1, is where the coloured window-glass that
1955. The building is the Kommandantur, the official had survived the war, forgotten
permanent home of the Berlin quarters of the city’s garrison in storage in the vaults of the
State Opera and has played commander, once stood. Dom. The decommissioned
host to famous singers, Totally destroyed in the last church was used as an exhib-
musicians and artists; one of days of World War II, the original ition space for sculpture by the
its directors and conductors façade was rebuilt in 2003 by Nationalgalerie, but is currently
was Richard Strauss. the German media company closed for building work.
t Gendarmenmarkt
This is one of Berlin’s most beautiful squares, created at
the end of the 17th century as a market square for the
newly established Friedrichstadt. It is named after
the Regiment Gens d’Armes who had their
stables here. In 1950 it was renamed Platz
der Akademie; after reunification the E
square reverted to its original name. SS
A
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Französischer ER
Dom G
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SS
A
GENDARMEN– R
MARK T ST
EN
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Galeries
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Lafayette
EN
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Deutscher
Quartier 206
E
Dom
Quartier 205 Schiller’s Monument

The poet’s monument stands
0 metres 85 in the centre of the square, in
0 yards 80
front of the Konzerthaus.
y Französischer rectangular nave and semi

Dom circular sections on both sides.
French Cathedral It features a late Baroque organ
from 1754.
Gendarmenmarkt 6. Map 9 A4. The structure is dominated
Tel 20 30 60.  Stadtmitte or by a massive, cylindrical tower
Französische Strasse. Museum: Open which is encircled by Corinthian
noon–5pm Tue–Sun. & Church:
porticoes at its base. The
Open 10am–6pm daily (to 7pm
restored tower and porticoes
Nov–Mar). 5 9:30am & 11am Sun.
were designed by Carl von
Although the two churches Gontard and added around
on the opposite sides of 1785, some 80 years after the
Schauspielhaus seem identical, church was built. It houses the
they differ from each other Huguenot Museum, which
quite considerably. Their only details the history of the
common feature is the front Side elevation of the Französischer Dom, Huguenots in France and
towers. The French cathedral built for Huguenot refugees Brandenburg. Welleducated
was built for the Huguenot and highly skilled, they played
community, who found refuge Quesnay, was modelled on the a crucial part in Berlin’s rise
in Protestant Berlin following Huguenot church in Charenton, as a city of science, craft
its expulsion from France after France, which was destroyed and commerce. The French
the revocation of the Edict of in 1688. The main entrance, on language they brought with
Nantes. The modest church, the west elevation (facing them survives to this day in
built between 1701 and 1705 Charlottenstrasse), leads to an many words used in the
by Louis Cayart and Abraham uncomplicated interior with a Berlin dialect.
alluding to drama and music: o Friedrichstadt-

statues of musical geniuses passagen
mounted on lions and panthers, Friedrichstadt Passages
as well as figures representing
Friedrichstrasse Quartier 205, 206, 207.
the Muses and a Bacchanal
Map 8 F4.  Französische Strasse or
procession. The façade is
Stadtmitte.
crowned with the sculpture of
Apollo riding a chariot pulled This group of passages is part
by griffins. of a huge development of
In front of the theatre stands a luxury shops, offices, restaurants
shining white marble statue of and apartments built along
Friedrich Schiller. It was sculpted Friedrichstrasse.
by Reinhold Begas, and erected Quartier 207 is the famous
in 1869. Removed by the Nazis Galeries Lafayette, a branch of
during the 1930s, the monu- the French department store
ment was finally returned to its occupying a charming building
The interior of the Konzerthaus, formerly rightful place in 1988. Schiller’s designed by Jean Nouvel and
the Schauspielhaus head was copied by the sculptor constructed almost entirely of
from a bust of the poet created glass. The building’s axis is
u Konzerthaus in 1794 by Johann Heinrich formed by an inner courtyard,
Concert Hall Dannecker. The statue is which is defined by two glass
mounted on a high pedestal cones with their bases facing
Gendarmenmarkt 2. Map 9 A4.
Tel 20 30 92 33.  Stadtmitte
surrounded by allegorical figures each other. The highly reflective
or Französische Strasse. representing Lyric Poetry, Drama, glass panes, together with the
Philosophy and History. multicoloured stands that are
A late Neo-Classical jewel, this clustered around the structure,
magnificent theatre building, make an extraordinary
formerly known as the i Deutscher Dom impression on the visitor.
Schauspielhaus, is one of the German Cathedral The next passage, Quartier
greatest achievements of Berlin’s 206, has offices and smart
Gendarmenmarkt 1. Map 9 A4.
best-known architect, Karl  Stadtmitte or Französische Strasse.
luxury boutiques, and is the
Friedrich Schinkel. It was built Tel 22 73 04 31. Exhibition: Open work of the American design
between 1818 and 1821 around May–Sep: 10am–7pm Tue–Sun; Oct– team Pei, Cobb, Freed &
the ruins of Langhan’s National Apr: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Partners. The building owes
Theatre, destroyed by fire in 1817. its alluring, but somewhat
The original portico columns The Cathedral at the southern nouveau-riche appearance to
were retained. Schinkel was end of the square, to the left the use of forms inspired by
responsible for the architectural of Konzerthaus, is an old Art Deco architecture, including
structure and for the interior German Protestant- sophisticated details and
design, down to the door Reformed church. It was expensive stone cladding.
handles. Following bomb designed by Martin The southernmost building
damage in World War II, Grünberg and built in in the complex, and the largest
it was reconstructed 1708 by Giovanni passage, is Quartier 205, now
as a concert hall with Simonetti. The design called “The Q”, which is the work
a different interior was based on a five- of Oswald Mathias Ungers.
layout. The exterior petal shape, and in
was restored to its 1785 it acquired a
former glory. The dome-covered tower
Konzerthaus is home identical to that of the
to the Konzerthaus- French cathedral.
orchester (formerly Burned down in 1945,
the Berlin Symphony the church was finally
Orchestra). rebuilt in 1993. Its exterior
The theatre façade was painstakingly
includes a huge Ionic reconstructed, including
portico with a set of its sculpted decorations.
stairs that was only The interior is now
used by the middle Sculpture from the modern and has been
classes (the upper Deutscher Dom adapted as an exhibition
classes entered via a space. On display is “Wege,
separate entrance where they Irrwege, Umwege” (“Paths,
could leave their horse-drawn Confusions, Detours”), an
carriages). The whole building is exhibition about Germany’s The exterior and main entrance of
richly decorated with sculptures parliamentary democracy. Quartier 206
p Mohren-
kolonnaden
Mohrenstrasse 37b and 40/41.
Map 8 F5.  Stadtmitte or
Hausvogteiplatz.
Designed by Carl Gotthard

Langhans, these Neo-Classical
arcades resting on twin
columns were constructed
in 1787. They originally
surrounded a bridge that
spanned the moat around the
city of Berlin. The bridge has
since been demolished, and
the arcades have been incorpo-
rated into buildings of a much A copy of one of the original Spittelkolonnaden in Leipziger Strasse
later architectural style located
on Mohrenstrasse. northern one was destroyed German government district,
during World War II. In 1979, a where the main departments
copy of one of the colonnades had offices from the mid-19th
was erected in Leipziger Strasse, century until 1945. The building
using elements from the original. at Voss Strasse No. 77 was once
the Reich’s Chancellery and
Otto von Bismarck’s office.
s Museum für From 1933, it served as the
Kommunikation office of Adolf Hitler, for whom
Museum of Telecommunications the building was specially
extended by Albert Speer.
Leipziger Strasse 16. Map 8 F5.
Tel 20 29 40.  Stadtmitte or
In the spring of 1945 the
Mohrenstrasse. @ 200, 265, M48. square was the scene of fierce
Open 9am–8pm Tue, 9am–5pm fighting, and after World War II
Wed–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. most of the damaged buildings
Closed Mon, 24–25 & 31 Dec. & had to be demolished. Among
those that survived are the
Founded in 1872 as the Post former Prussian Landtag offices
Office museum, this is the – the huge complex occupying
world’s oldest establishment the site between Leipziger and
of its kind. A dozen or so years Niederkirchner Strasse. This
One of the original arcades known after it was founded, it moved building, designed in the Italian
as the Mohrenkolonnaden into the corner of the huge Renaissance-style, was designed
building constructed for the by Friedrich Schulz, and con-
main post office. The office structed between 1892 and
a Spittel- wings, with their modest 1904. It consists of two segments:
kolonnaden Neo-Renaissance elevations, the section on the side of
Leipziger Strasse. Map 9 B5.
contrast with the museum Leipziger Strasse (No. 3–4) once
 Spittelmarkt. premises, which has a grand housed the upper chamber
Neo-Baroque façade. The of the National Assembly (the
In the vicinity of Spittelmarkt museum houses exhibits that Herrenhaus) and is now used
is a picturesque Baroque- illustrate the history of postal by the Bundesrat. The building
Neo-Classical colonnade and telecommunication ser- on the side of Niederkirchner
squeezed between several vices, including contemporary Strasse (No. 5) is the former
20-storey tower blocks. These digital communications. seat of the Landtag’s lower
tower blocks were erected to chamber, and is now the
obscure the view of the Axel Berliner Abgeordnetenhaus
Springer Publishers’ building, d Ehemaliges (House of Representatives).
which stood on the opposite Regierungsviertel The second surviving
side of the Berlin Wall. Wilhelmstrasse, Leipziger Strasse, Voss
complex is the former Ministry
A pair of such semicircular Strasse. Map 8 E5.  Potsdamer Platz, of Aviation (Reichsluftfahrtminis-
colonnades, designed by Carl Mohrenstrasse. terium), at Leipziger Strasse
von Gontard and built in 1776, No. 5, built for Hermann Göring
originally surrounded Spittel- Wilhelmstrasse, and the area in 1936 by Ernst Sagebiel. This
markt. The southern one was situated to the west of it up to awesome building is typical of
demolished in 1929, and the Leipziger Platz, was the former architecture of the Third Reich.
f Pariser Platz Max Liebermann (1849–1935)

Map 8 E3.  &  Brandenburger
Tor. @ 100, 200. One of the greatest German painters, Max
Liebermann was also one of the most interesting
This square, at the end of Unter and controversial figures of Berlin’s elite circles
den Linden, was created in at the start of the 20th century. A sensitive
1734. Originally called Quarrée, observer as well as an outstanding portraitist,
it was renamed Pariser Platz Liebermann was famously stubborn – he
after 1814, when the Quadriga could stand up even to the Kaiser himself.
sculpture from the Brandenburg From 1920 he was president of the Akademie
Gate was returned to Berlin der Künste (Academy of Fine Arts), but in view
of his Jewish origin he was removed from office
from Paris.
in 1933. He died just two years later, alone, and his wife committed
The square, enclosed on
suicide to escape being sent to a concentration camp.
the west by the Brandenburg
Gate, saw most of its buildings,
including the house of painter
Max Liebermann, destroyed in
1945. Following reunification,
the square was redeveloped.
Twin houses designed
by Josef Paul Kleihues now
flank the Brandenburg Gate.
On the north side of the A frieze from the Brandenburg Gate
square are the Dresdner Bank
building and the French the Acropolis in Athens. A pair has borne witness to many
Embassy. On the south are of pavilions, once used by of Berlin’s important events,
the US Embassy, the DZ Bank guards and customs officers, from military parades to
head office and the Akademie frames its powerful Doric celebrations marking the birth
der Künste (Academy of Fine colonnade. The bas-reliefs of the Third Reich and Hitler’s
Arts). To the east is the historic depict scenes from Greek ascent to power. It was here,
Hotel Adlon Kempinski. mythology, and the whole too, that the Russian flag was
structure is crowned by the raised in May 1945, and on
sculpture Quadriga, designed 17 June 1953 that 25 workers
g Brandenburger by Johann Gottfried Schadow. demonstrating for better
Tor The Quadriga was originally conditions were killed.
Brandenburg Gate regarded as a symbol of peace. The gate, in East Berlin, was
In 1806, during the French restored during 1956–8, after
Pariser Platz. Map 8 E3.  & 
Brandenburger Tor. @ 100, 200.
occupation, it was dismantled it suffered extensive damage
on Napoleon’s orders and taken in World War II. Until 1989 it
The Brandenburg Gate is the to Paris. On its return in 1814, stood watch over the divided
quintessential symbol of it was declared a symbol of city. It was restored again
Berlin. This magnificent Neo- victory, and the goddess between 2000 and 2002.
Classical structure, completed received the staff bearing the
in 1795, was designed by Prussian eagle and the iron
Carl Gotthard Langhans and cross adorned with a laurel h Holocaust
modelled on the entrance to wreath. The Brandenburg Gate Denkmal
Holocaust Memorial
Ebertstrasse. Map 8 E3. Tel 28 04 59
60.  &  Brandenburger Tor.
@ 100, 200. Open Information
Centre: Apr–Sep: 10am– 8pm; Oct–
Mar: 10am–7pm. Closed Mon.
The memorial for the Jews

killed by the Nazis between
1933 and 1945 was inaug-
urated in 2005. It covers
19,000 sq m (205,000 sq ft)
next to the Brandenburg Gate.
Above ground, visitors can
walk through an undulating
field of concrete slabs; beneath
lies an information centre on
Oskar Kokoschka’s Pariser Platz in Berlin (1925–6), Nationalgalerie the history of the genocide.
l Komische Oper
Comic Opera
Behrenstrasse 55/57. Map 8 F4. Tel 47
99 74 00.  Französische Strasse.
 &  Brandenburger Tor. @ 100,
147, 200.
Looking at the modern façade

of this theatre, it is hard to
believe that it hides one of
Berlin’s most impressive
interiors. Originally called the
Theater Unter den Linden, the
theatre was built in 1892 by the
The iconic façade of the Hotel Adlon Kempinski internationally famous Viennese
architectural practice of
j Hotel Adlon Zuckerbäckerstil. Built between Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann
1948 and 1953, it was the first Helmer. It has served as a variety
Kempinski postwar building erected on theatre and as the German
Unter den Linden 77. Map 8 E3, 8 E4. Unter den Linden. It is built National Theatre in the past, and
Tel 226 10.  &  Brandenburger on the site of a former has only housed the Komische
Tor. @ 100, 200. palace that had housed Oper since World War II. The
the Russian (originally postwar reconstruction
Considered the most important Tsarist) embassy deprived the building of
society venue in Berlin, the from 1837. its former façades but
original Hotel Adlon opened The work of the beautiful Viennese
its doors in 1907. Its luxurious Russian architect Neo-Baroque interior
suites were once used by the Anatoli Strizhevsky, remained, full of
world’s celebrities, including this structure, with stuccoes and gilded
Greta Garbo, Enrico Caruso its strictly sym- ornaments. Particu-
and Charlie Chaplin. The hotel metrical layout, larly interesting are
suffered bomb damage in resembles the old the expressive and
World War II, and was demo- Berlin palaces of the dynamically posed
lished in 1945. A building Neo-Classical period. statues on the pilasters
bearing the same name The sculptures that of the top balcony – the
opened in a blaze of publicity adorn it, however, belong work of Theodor Friedel.
on 23 August 1997 and was to an altogether different The Komische Oper is
later bought and branded era: the gods of one of Berlin’s three
Hotel Adlon Kempinski. ancient Greece and leading opera
Today, it is once again the Rome have been Statue of a worker companies. Its
best address in town. Comfort replaced by working- on the Russian repertoire consists
and rich interiors attract visitors class heroes. Embassy building mainly of light opera.
despite high prices. Those who
cannot afford to stay should at
least drop in for a cup of coffee:
in the main hall stands the only
authentic remnant of the former
Adlon Hotel, an elegant marble
fountain decorated with
elephants, which once stood
in the orangery.
k Russische
Botschaft
Russian Embassy
Unter den Linden 63/65. Map 8 F3.
 &  Brandenburger Tor.
@ 100, 200.
The monumental white

Russian Embassy building is
an example of the Stalinist
“wedding-cake” style, or Crowded balconies and the plush interior of the Komische Oper
z Bahnhof
Friedrichstrasse
Map 8 F2, 8 F3.
One of the city’s most famous

urban railway stations, Bahnhof
Friedrichstrasse used to be the
border station between East
and West Berlin. It was built in
1882 to a design by Johannes
Vollmer. In 1925 a roof was
added, covering the hall and
the platforms.
The original labyrinth of
passages, staircases and check- A window of the Admiralspalast decorated with marble slabs
points no longer exists but it is
possible to see a model of the marble. The restored façade performance of the St Matthew
station at the Stasi-Museum (see on Planckstrasse, designed by Passion by Johann Sebastian
p175). Now a museum itself, the Ernst Westphal, features exotic Bach here, the first since the
only remaining structure from overlapping motifs. composer’s death in 1750.
the original station is the special Following reconstruction after
pavilion once used as a waiting World War II, the building
room by those waiting for c Maxim Gorki became a theatre.
emigration clearance. It earned Theater
the nickname Tränenpalast, the v Palais am
Am Festungsgraben 2. Map 9 A3.
“Palace of Tears”, as it is here that
Berliners from different sides of
Tel 20 22 11 15.  &  Fried-
richstrasse. @ 100, 200. v M1.
Festungsgraben
the city would say goodbye to Festungsgraben Palace
each other after a visit. The Maxim Gorki theatre Am Festungsgraben 1. Map 9 A3.
was once a singing school or Tel 618 14 60.  Friedrichstrasse.
Sing-Akademie. Berlin’s oldest @ 100, 200. v M1.
x Admiralspalast concert hall, it was built in 1827
by Karl Theodor Ottmer, who The Festungsgraben Palace is
Friedrichstrasse 101–102.
Map 8 F2.Tel 479 97 74 99. based his design on drawings one of the few structures in this
 &  Friedrichstrasse. by Karl Friedrich Schinkel. This part of town that has maintained
modest Neo-Classical building, its original interior decor. Built as
The Admiralspalast, built in with its attractive façade a small Baroque palace in 1753,
1911, was one of the Roaring resembling a Greco-Roman it owes its present form to major
Twenties’ premier entertainment temple, was well known for the extension work, carried out in
complexes in Berlin, and one of excellent acoustic qualities of 1864 in the style of Karl Friedrich
the many variety and vaudeville its concert hall. Schinkel, by Heinrich Bürde and
theatres once lining Friedrich- Many famous composer- Hermann von der Hude.
strasse. Originally designed as musicians performed here, The late Neo-Classical style of
an indoor swimming pool including violinist Niccolò the building is reminiscent of
above a natural hot spring, it Paganini and pianist Franz Liszt. Schinkel’s later designs. The
was later transformed into an In 1829, Felix Mendelssohn- interior includes a magnificent
ice-skating rink and, after heavy Bartholdy conducted a double-height marble hall in
damage in World War II, an the Neo-Renaissance style and
Operettentheater that staged modelled on the White Room
light musical entertainment. in the former Stadtschloss
In 2006, the theatre reopened (see p76). In 1934 one of the
with a much-discussed ground-floor rooms was
production of Bertolt Brecht’s turned into a music salon,
Dreigroschenoper (The and many musical instruments
Threepenny Opera), and now were brought here from the
once again serves as a vibrant 19th-century house (now
entertainment complex, with demolished) of wealthy
a large stage, a café and a merchant and manufacturer
nightclub. Designed by Heinrich Johann Weydinger (1773–1837).
Schweitzer, the beautifully Until 2009 the Palace in
restored façade is punctuated Festungsgraben housed the
by Doric half-columns and Maxim Gorki Theater, occupying the oldest Museum Mitte. It is now used
inlaid with slabs of Istrian concert hall in Berlin for private events.
MUSEUM ISLAND
The long island that nestles in the tributaries Brandenburg Electors’ palace, which served as
of the Spree river is the cradle of Berlin’s their residence from 1470. Over the following
history. It was here that the first settlements centuries, the palace was converted first into
appeared at the beginning of the 13th a royal home and later into an imperial palace
century – Cölln is mentioned in documents – the huge Stadtschloss. Although it was razed
dating back to 1237 and its twin settlement, to the ground in 1950, several buildings on the
Berlin, is mentioned a few years later (1244). island’s north side have survived, including the
Not a trace of Gothic and Renaissance huge Berliner Dom (cathedral) and the
Cölln is left now: the island’s character was impressive collection of museums that give
transformed by the construction of the the island its name – Museumsinsel.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Streets, Squares and Parks Other Buildings
6 Altes Museum p77 1 Schlossplatz 2 Staatsratsgebäude
7 Alte Nationalgalerie 5 Lustgarten
8 Neues Museum t Märkisches Ufer
9 Pergamonmuseum pp82–5 Historic Buildings
0 Bode-Museum
3 Schlossbrücke
e Historischer Hafen Berlin Restaurants
4 Berliner Dom pp78–9
r Märkisches Museum see p233
q Marstall
o Galgenhaus
w Ribbeckhaus 1 Café im Bode-Museum
y Ermeler-Haus 2 Marinehaus
u Gertraudenbrücke 3 Rotisserie Weingrün
i Nicolai-Haus
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The elaborate façade of the Berliner Dom For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Museum Island

On this island are the pretty Lustgarten and the Berliner
Dom (Berlin Cathedral). It is also where you will find some 0 Bode-Museum
The dome-covered rounded
of the most important museums in the east of the city.
corner of the building provides
These include the Bode-Museum, the Altes Museum, the a prominent landmark at the
Alte Nationalgalerie and the splendid Pergamonmuseum, tip of the island.
famous for its collection of antiquities and visited by
crowds of art lovers from around the world.
Railway bridge,
also used by the
S-Bahn.
A
M GR
K A
U B
P EN
F
E
R
9 . Pergamonmuseum
–
The museum is famous

for its reconstruction of
fragments of ancient towns,
as well as the original friezes
from the Pergamon Altar. E
S
S
A
R
T
S
E
D
O
B
8 Neues Museum
This museum houses the
Egyptian Museum plus parts of
the Museum of Pre- and Early
History, as well as items from the
Collection of Classical Antiquities.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
7 Alte
Nationalgalerie SC
The equestrian statue
of King Friedrich
Wilhelm IV in front of
Key
the building is the work
of Alexander Calandrelli. Suggested route
MUSEUM ISLAND  75
6. Altes
Museum
The corners of the EAST OF THE
CENTRE
central building
feature figures of
AROUND MUSEUM Spree
Castor and Pollux, UNTER ISLAND
heroes of Greek DEN LINDEN
myth also known

as the Dioscuri.
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 9
5 Lustgarten
The 70-ton granite
bowl was the biggest
in the world when it
was placed in the
garden in 1828.
4 . Berliner Dom
The Neo-Baroque interior
of the Berlin Cathedral
features some
E
S
S extravagant late
A 19th-century furnishings.
R
T
S
E
D
O
B
3 Schlossbrücke
Under the GDR regime
this unusual bridge
was called Marx-Engels-
Brücke. It features statues
made of stunning white
LUSTGAR TEN
Carrara marble.
R.
ST
T
H
EC
N
K
EB
– LI
KE RL
ÜC A
BR K
O SS
HL
1 Schlossplatz
SCHLOSSPL ATZ
Excavations conducted
here have unearthed the
cellars of the demolished
Stadtschloss.
1 Schlossplatz built out of cloth pillars in 1853. These

stretched over figures were also created
Map 9 B3.  Hackescher Markt.
@ 100, 200.
scaffolding. After a by Schinkel and made
lengthy debate and an of stunning white
This square was once the site of architectural competition Carrara marble.
a gigantic residential complex won by Franco Stella, it The statues depict
known as Stadtschloss (City was decided to rebuild tableaux taken
Palace). Built in 1451, it served the palace as a museum from Greek
as the main residence of the complex that will have mythology, for
Brandenburg Electors. It was three reconstructed instance Iris,
transformed from a castle into a historical façades and Nike and Athena
palace in the mid-16th century a modern one. This training and looking
when Elector Friedrich III (later Humboldt Forum will Sculptures on the after their favourite
King Friedrich I) ordered its house the Dahlem Schlossbrücke young warriors.
reconstruction in the Baroque museums’ overseas The wrought-iron
style. The building works (1698– collections. Completion is due in balustrade is decorated with
1716) were overseen initially by 2019; until then, the temporary intertwined sea creatures.
Andreas Schlüter and then by Humboldt Box will serve as an
Johann von Göthe and Martin information centre.
Heinrich Böhme. 4 Berliner Dom
The three-storey residence, Berlin Cathedral
2 Staatsrats
designed around two court-
See pp78–9.
yards, was the main seat of gebäude
the Hohenzollern family (see Map 9 B3.  &  Alexanderplatz.
pp21–2) for almost 500 years @ 100, 147, 200, M48. 5 Lustgarten
until the end of the monarchy.
The palace was partly burned The former Staatsratsgebäude, @ 100, 200.
during World War II, but after once the seat of the highest
1945 it was provisionally state government council of The enchanting garden in front
restored and used as a museum. East Germany, was built in 1964. of the Altes Museum looks as
In 1950–51, despite protests, the It now stands alone on the though it has always been here,
palace was demolished and the southern side of the square, but in its present form it was
square was renamed Marx- as all the other former Socialist established in the late 1990s.
Engels-Platz under the GDR. state buildings that once Used to grow vegetables and
Now all that remains of the formed the government herbs for the Stadtschloss until
palace is the triumphal-arch centre in this area have the late 16th century, it became
portal that once adorned the long been demolished. The a real Lustgarten (pleasure
façade on the Lustgarten side. Staatsratsgebäude features the garden) in the reign of the
This is now incorporated into remaining original sculptures, Great Elector (1620–88).
the wall of the government including the magnificent However, its statues, grottoes,
building, the Staatsratsgebäude. atlantes by the famous Dresden fountains and exotic vegetation
In 1989 the square reverted to sculptor Balthasar Permoser. were removed when Friedrich
its original name. In 1993 a full- Their inclusion, however, was Wilhelm I (1688–1740), known
scale model of the palace was not due to their artistic merit, but for his love of military pursuits,
rather to their propaganda value: turned the garden into an army
it was from the balcony of the drill ground.
portal that Karl Liebknecht Following the construction of
proclaimed the birth of the the Altes Museum, the ground
Socialist Republic (see p30). became a park, designed by
Peter Joseph Lenné. In 1831 it
was adorned with a monolithic
3 Schlossbrücke granite bowl by Christian
Gottlieb Cantian, to a design
by Schinkel. The 70-ton bowl,
@ 100, 200.
measuring nearly 7 m (23 ft) in
This is one of the town’s most diameter, was intended for the
beautiful bridges, connecting museum rotunda, but was too
Schlossplatz with Unter den heavy to carry inside.
Linden. It was built in 1824 to a After 1933, the Lustgarten
design by Karl Friedrich Schinkel, was paved over and turned
who was one of Germany’s most into a parade ground, remaining
influential architects (see p181). as such until 1989. Its current
The ornate façade of the former Statues were added to the top restoration is based on Lenné’s
Staatsratsgebäude building of the bridge’s sparkling granite original designs.
MUSEUM ISLAND І 77
6 Altes Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The museum building, designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel, is Practical Information
undoubtedly one of the world’s most beautiful Neo-Classical Am Lustgarten (Bodestrasse 1–3).
structures, with an impressive 87-m- (285-ft-) high portico Map 9 B3. Tel 266 42 42 42.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to
supported by 18 Ionic columns. Officially opened in 1830, 8pm Thu). & d =
it was built to house the royal collection of paintings and
Transport
antiquities. It now houses part of Berlin’s Collection of  Hackescher Markt. @ 100,
Classical Antiquities, with an exhibition focused on the art and 200, TXL.
culture of ancient Greece. The first floor houses a permanent
exhibition of Roman and Etruscan art and sculptures and
the second floor is used for temporary exhibitions.
Pericles’ Head
This is a Roman copy of the
sculpture by Kresilas that
stood at the entrance to
the Acropolis in Athens.
Staircase
Andochides’ Amphora
The amphora is
decorated with the
figures of wrestlers, a
common motif.
The monumental
colonnade at the
front of the building
dominates the façade.
Key
Greek and Roman antiquities
Temporary exhibitions
The stately rotunda is

Main entrance decorated with sculptures
and ringed by a colonnade.
Its design is based on the
ancient Pantheon.
Mosaic from
Hadrian’s Villa
(c.117–138)
This colourful mosaic
depicts a battle scene
between centaurs and Gallery Guide
a tiger and lion. The The ground-floor
mosaic comes from a galleries house Greek
floor of Hadrian’s Villa, and Roman antiquities;
near Tivoli on the the first floor is used for
outskirts of Rome. temporary exhibitions.
4 Berliner Dom
The original Berliner Dom was based on a modest
Baroque design by Johann Boumann. Built between 1747
and 1750 on the site of an old Dominican church, the
cathedral included the original crypt of the Hohenzollern
family, one of the largest of its kind in Europe. The present
Neo-Baroque structure is the work of Julius Raschdorff
and dates from 1894 to 1905. The central copper dome
is some 98 m (321 ft) high. Following severe World War II
damage, the cathedral has now been restored in a
simplified form. The Hohenzollern memorial chapel,
which had originally adjoined the northern walls of the
cathedral, has been dismantled.
Philipp der Grossmütige

(Philip the Magnanimous)
At the base of the arcade stand
the statues of church reformers
and those who supported the
Reformation. The statue of Prince
Philip the Magnanimous is the
work of Walter Schott.
. Church Interior
The impressive and richly decorated
interior was designed by Julius
Raschdorff at the start of the
20th century.
Sauer’s Organ Main

The organ, the work of Wilhelm Sauer, entrance
has an exquisitely carved case. The
instrument contains some 7,200 pipes.
. Hohenzollern
Sarcophagi
KEY The Imperial
Hohenzollern family
1 Figures of the apostles crypt, hidden beneath
2 The main altar, saved from the floor of the cathedral,
the previous cathedral, is the work contains 100 richly
of Friedrich August Stüler. It dates decorated sarcophagi,
from 1820. including that of Prince
Friedrich Ludwig.
MUSEUM ISLAND І 79
The Four
VISIToRS’ ChECklIST
Evangelists
Mosaics depicting
the Four Evangelists
Am Lustgarten. Map 9 B3. Tel 20
decorate the ceilings
26 91 19. ∑ berlinerdom.de
of the smaller niches
open 9am–8pm Mon–Sat (to
in the cathedral. They
7pm in winter), noon–8pm Sun &
were designed by
public hols. Closed for services and
Woldemar Friedrich.
events, call to check. & 5 Sun.
Transport
 Hackescher Markt. @ 100, 200.
The Resurrection
The stained glass in the
windows of the apses
depicts scenes from the life
of Jesus. It is the work
of Anton von Werner.
The Pulpit
This elaborate Neo-Baroque pulpit is
part of the cathedral’s ornate decor
dating from the early 20th century.
. Sarcophagi of Friedrich I and his Wife

Both of these were designed by Andreas
Schlüter. The sculpture on Sophie Charlotte’s
sarcophagus depicts Death.
Arnold Böcklin’s The Island of the Dead (1883), Alte Nationalgalerie
7 Alte Nazarene Brotherhood and the Kaulbach depicted key events

Nationalgalerie French Impressionists. There is in world history.
Old National Gallery also no shortage of sculptures, In 1945 the building was
including works by Christian badly damaged and it took a
Bodestrasse 1–3. Map 9 B2. Daniel Rauch, Johann Gottfried long time to decide if it would
Tel 266 42 42 42.  Hackescher Schadow, Antonio Canova and be feasible to rebuild it. But the
Markt, Friedrichstrasse. @ 100, 200. reconstruction effort
Reinhold Begas. Two additional
v 12, M1, M4, M5. Open 10am–6pm
exhibition halls now present under British architect
Tue–Sun (to 8pm Thu). &
paintings (formerly shown at David Chipperfield,
The Nationalgalerie building the Schloss Charlottenburg) a skilful blend of
was erected between 1866 and from the German Romantic conservation,
1876 and designed by Friedrich era, as well as works by restoration and
August Stüler, who took into Caspar David Friedrich, creation of new
account the sketches made Karl Friedrich Schinkel spaces, was
by Friedrich Wilhelm IV. The and Karl Blechen. highly successful.
building is situated on a high History remains
platform reached via a double palpable in every
staircase. On the top stands an 8 Neues room. The resurrected
equestrian statue of Friedrich Museum museum again
Wilhelm IV, the work of New Museum houses the collection
Alexander Calandrelli in 1886. of Egyptian art (with
Bodestrasse 1–3. Map 9 B2.
The façade of the building is Tel 26 64 24 242.  Hackescher
the bust of Queen
preceded by a magnificent Markt or Friedrichstrasse. Nefertiti as its star
colonnade, which becomes a @ 100, 200. v 12, M1, M4, M5. exhibit), the Collection
row of half-columns higher up. Open 10am–6pm daily (to 8pm of Classical Antiquities,
The decorations are in keeping Thu). & and the Museum
with the building’s purpose – the Façade statue, for Pre- and Early
tympanum features Germania as The Neues Museum was Neues Museum History. The latter
patron of art, while the top is built on Museum Island in portrays the
crowned with a personification order to relieve the Altes evolution of mankind from
of the arts. Museum, which was already prehistoric to medieval times,
The museum was originally very crowded. The building was including a magnificent
meant to house the collection erected between 1841 and collection from the ancient
of modern art that had been 1855 to a design by Friedrich city of Troy and gold jewellery
on display since 1861 in the August Stüler. Until World War II belonging to the “Treasure
Akademie der Künste (see p69). it housed a collection of of Priam”.
The current collection includes antiquities, mainly ancient
works of masters such as Egyptian art. The monumental
Adolph von Menzel, Wilhelm building’s beautiful rooms were 9 Pergamon
Leibl, Max Liebermann and decorated to complement the
Arnold Böcklin. Other works exhibitions they contained. Wall
museum
include paintings by the paintings by Wilhelm von See pp82–3.
MUSEUM ISLAND І 81
0 Bode-Museum q Marstall
The Royal Stables
Monbijoubrücke (Bodestrasse 1–3).
Map 9 A2. Tel 266 42 42 42. Schlossplatz/Breite Strasse 36–37.
 Hackescher Markt or Map 9 B3, C3, C4.  Spittelmarkt.
Friedrichstrasse. @ 100, 147, 200. @ 147, 248, M48.
v 12, M1, M4, M5, M6. Open 10am–
6pm daily (to 8pm Thu). & This huge complex, occupying
the area between the Spree
The fourth museum building on and Breitestrasse, south of
the island was erected between Schlossplatz, is the old Royal
1897 and 1904. It was designed Stables block. The wing on
by Ernst von Ihne to fit the the side of Breite Strasse is a
wedge-shaped end of the fragment of the old structure
island. The interior was built in 1669. It was designed by
designed with the help of an Michael Matthias Smids and is
art historian, Wilhelm von Bode, the only surviving early Baroque The Ribbeckhaus, central Berlin’s only
who was the director of the building in Berlin. The wings surviving Renaissance building
Berlin state museums at the running along Schlossplatz and
time. The museum displayed the Spree river were built much nephew, Elector Friedrich
a rather mixed collection that later, between 1898 and 1901. Wilhelm. As crown property,
included some Old Masters. Its Although they were designed the building later housed
original name, Kaiser Friedrich by Ernst von Ihne, these various state administrative
Museum, was changed after buildings are reminiscent of the offices. When another storey
World War II. Following the Berlin Baroque style – probably was added, the row of gables
reassembling of the Berlin because von Ihne modelled was retained by royal decree.
collections, all of the paintings them on designs by Jean de The house also has an
were put in the Gemäldegalerie Bodt from 1700. interesting late Renaissance
(see pp126–7). The Egyptian portal, ornamented with the
art and the papyrus collection date and coat of arms of the first
were moved to the Ägyptisches w Ribbeckhaus owners – von Ribbeck and his
Museum (Egyptian Museum) Ribbeck’s House wife, Katharina von Brösicke.
at Charlottenburg. They are This was replaced in 1960 with
Breite Strasse 35. Map 9 C4.
now housed at the Neues a copy. Original features of
 Spittelmarkt. @ 147, 248, M48.
Museum (see opposite). interest include the beautiful
All the collections are back Four identical, picturesque wrought-iron grilles on the
on display following renovation gables crown central Berlin’s ground-floor windows.
work. Highlights include an only surviving Renaissance
outstanding coin collection building. The house was built
of some of the world’s oldest c.1624 for Hans Georg von e Historischer
coins, from Athens in the 6th Ribbeck, a court counsellor, Hafen Berlin
century BC, as well as Roman, who sold it shortly afterwards Historic Port of Berlin
medieval and 20th-century to Anna Sophie of Brunswick.
Märkisches Ufer. Map 10 D4. Tel 21
coins. There are also sculptures The architect Balthasar Benzelt 47 32 57.  Märkisches Ufer.
by Tilman Riemenschneider, converted the house for her in  Jannowitzbrücke. @ 147, 248,
Donatello, Gianlorenzo Bernini 1629. After her death in 1659, 265. Open 1–6pm Sat & Sun. &
and Antonio Canova. the house passed to her
Moored on the south shore
of Museum Island in an
area called Fischerinsel, and
opposite the Märkisches Ufer,
are several examples of boats,
barges and tugboats which
operated on the Spree river at
the end of the 19th century.
These craft constitute an open-
air museum which was once
located in the Humboldt Port.
One of the boats is now used
as a summer café, while
another, the Renate Angelika,
houses a small exhibition
illustrating the history of
inland waterway transport
The Bode-Museum, designed by Ernst von Ihne on the Spree and Havel.
9 Pergamonmuseum
Built between 1910 and 1930 to a design by Alfred
Messels and Ludwig Hoffmann, this museum houses
one of Europe’s most famous collections of antiquities.
It is named for the famous Pergamon Altar displayed
in the main hall. The three independent collections –
the Collection of Classical Antiquities (Greek and
Roman), the Museum of the Ancient Near East and the
Museum of Islamic Art – are the result of intensive
archaeological excavations by late 19th- and early
20th-century German expeditions to the Near and
. Pergamon Altar (170 BC)
Middle East. Due to renovations, the hall containing This scene, featuring the goddess
the Pergamon Altar will remain closed until 2019. Athena, appears on the large
frieze illustrating a battle between
the gods and the giants.
First floor
. Market Gate from Miletus (AD c. 100)

This gate, measuring over 16 m (52 ft) in height,
opened onto the southern market of Miletus,
a Roman town in Asia Minor.
Ground floor
-
Assyrian Palace
Parts of this beautifully
reconstructed palace
interior, from the ancient
kingdom of Assyria, date
from the 9th and 13th
centuries BC.
PERGAMONMUSEUM  83
Aleppo Zimmer
(c.1601–3)
This magnificent panelled Practical Information
room comes from a Am Kupfergraben 5.
merchant’s house in the Map 9 A2, B2. Tel 266 42 42 42.
Syrian city of Aleppo. ∑ smb-spk-berlin.de
Open 10am–6pm daily (to 8pm
Thu); call to check which sections
are open. & 9 = d m
7-
Key Transport
 Hackescher Markt or Friedrich
Collection of Classical Antiquities
strasse. @ 100, 200. v 12, M1.
Museum of the Ancient Near East
(Vorderasiatisches Museum)
Museum of Islamic Art (Museum
für Islamische Kunst)
Special exhibition rooms
Façade of the Mshatta Palace (AD 744)

This fragment is from the southern
façade of the Jordanian Mshatta Palace,
and was presented to Wilhelm II by
Sultan Abdul Hamid of Ottoman in 1903.
m
=
d
Main
entrance
Gallery Guide
The central section of the ground floor houses . Ishtar Gate from Babylon
reconstructions of ancient monumental structures. (6th century BC)
The left wing is closed for renovation until 2019. Original glazed bricks decorate
The right wing houses the Museum of the Ancient both the huge Ishtar Gate and the
Near East; the first floor of the right wing houses impressive Processional Way that
the Museum of Islamic Art. leads up to it.
Exploring the Pergamonmuseum

Opened in 1930, the Pergamonmuseum is the newest
museum in the Museum Island complex and is one of
Berlin’s major attractions. The building was one of the
first in Europe designed specifically to house big
architectural exhibits. The richness of its collections
is the result of large-scale excavations by German
archaeologists at the beginning of the 20th century.
Currently, the museum is at the heart of a significant
redevelopment programme, due for completion in
2025, that will considerably increase the range of
large-scale exhibits on display.
transport the surviving portions Restored entrance hall of the Athena

Collection of Classical of the altar to Berlin. The front temple from Pergamon, 2nd century BC
Antiquities section of the building was
Berlin’s collection of Greek and restored at the museum, together earthquake in the 10th or 11th
Roman antiquities (Antiken- with the so-called small frieze, century, before being excavated
sammlung) came into existence which once adorned the inside during an expedition in the late
during the 17th century. Growing of the building, and fragments 1800s by German archaeologist
steadily in size, the collection of the large frieze, which Theodor Wiegand. He sent it to
was opened for public viewing originally encircled the base Berlin, where it was restored in
in 1830, initially in the Altes of the colonnade. 1903. The emperor of the time,
Museum (see p77), and from The large frieze has now been Kaiser Wilhelm II, was so impressed
1930 in the new, purpose-built reconstructed around the interior by the find that he ordered it to
Pergamonmuseum. The centre walls of the museum and its be used “like a theatre backdrop”
of the collection is the huge theme is the Gigantomachy (the in the Pergamonmuseum.
Pergamon Altar (temporarily battle of the gods against the Standing at an impressive
inaccessible due to renovation giants). The small frieze tells 16-m (52-ft) tall, the two-story
work) from the acropolis of the the story of Telephos, supposed structure has three doorways
ancient city of Pergamon in Asia founder of the city and son of and features friezes of bulls and
Minor, which is now Bergama, the hero Heracles. The frieze is flowers. It is supported by a series
Turkey. It formed part of a larger an attempt to claim an illustrious of ornate Corinthian columns.
architectural complex, a model ancestry for Pergamon’s rulers. The gate was damaged during
of which is also on display in Roman architecture is World War II, but was extensively
the museum. The magnificently represented by the striking restored during the 1950s to its
restored altar is thought to have market gate from the Roman current splendour.
been built to celebrate victory city of Miletus, on the west coast
in war and to have been of Asia Minor. The gate dates from
commissioned by King Eumenes the 2nd century AD, and shows Museum of the Ancient
in 170 BC. Probably dedicated to strong Hellenistic influences. Near East
the god Zeus and the goddess Merchants and buyers once The collection now on display
Athena, this artistic masterpiece moved through the impressive in the Museum of Near Eastern
was discovered in a decrepit structure into a bustling market Antiquities (Vorderasiatisches
state by German archaeologist square that served as a trading Museum) was made up initially
Carl Humann, who, after long link between Asia and Europe. of donations from individual
negotiations, was allowed to The gate was destroyed by an collectors. However, hugely
Roman marble sarcophagus depicting the story of Medea, 2nd century AD

PERGAMONMUSEUM  85
pieces from the neighbouring

regions of Persia, Syria and
Palestine, including a gigantic
basalt sculpture of a bird from
Tell Halaf and a glazed wall
relief of a spear-bearer from
Darius I’s palace in Susa.
Other Mesopotamian peoples,
including the Assyrians and
the Cassians, are represented
here too, as are the inhabitants
of Sumer in the southern part
of the Babylonian Empire
with pieces dating from the
4th century BC.
Museum of Islamic Art

The history of the Museum Brilliantly glazed mihrab from a Kashan
Glazed-brick wall cladding from the palace of of Islamic Art (Museum für mosque built in 1226
Darius I in Susa, capital of the Persian Empire Islamische Kunst) began in
1904, when Wilhelm von Bode make it sparkle as if studded
successful excavations, begun launched the collection by with sapphires and gold.
during the 1880s, formed the donating his own extensive The collection’s many vivid
basis of a royal collection that selection of carpets. He also carpets come from as far afield
is one of the richest in the brought to Berlin a 45-m- (150-ft-) as Iran, Asia Minor, Egypt and
world. It features architecture, long section of the façade of a the Caucasus. Highlights
sculpture and jewellery from Jordanian desert palace. The include an early 15th-century
Babylon, Iran and Assyria. façade, covered with exquisitely carpet from Anatolia decorated
One striking exhibit is the carved limestone cladding, was with an unusual dragon and
magnificent Ishtar Gate and presented to Kaiser Wilhelm II in phoenix motif and, dating
the Processional Way that leads 1903 by Sultan Abdul Hamid of from the 14th century, one
to it. They were built during Ottoman. The palace was part of the earliest Turkish carpets
the reign of Nebuchadnezzar II of a group of defence fortresses in existence.
(604–562 BC) in the ancient city and residential buildings dating Other rooms hold collections
of Babylon. The original avenue from the Omayyad period of miniature paintings and
was about 180 m (590 ft) long. (AD 661–750), and probably various objects for daily use.
Many of the bricks used in its built for the Caliph al-Walid II. An interesting example of
reconstruction are new, but Another fascinating exhibit is provincial Ottoman archi-
the lions – sacred animals of a beautiful 13th-century mihrab, tecture is an exquisitely
the goddess Ishtar (mistress the niche in a mosque that panelled early 17th-century
of the sky, goddess of love and shows the direction of Mecca. reception room, known as
patron of the army) – are all Made in the Iranian town the Aleppo Zimmer, which
originals. Although impressive of Kashan, renowned for its was once part of a Christian
in size, the Ishtar Gate has in ceramics, the mihrab is covered merchant’s house in the
fact not been reconstructed in in lustrous metallic glazes that Syrian city of Aleppo.
full and
a model of the
whole structure
shows the scale
of the original
complex. Only
the inner gate is
on display, framed
by two towers.
Dragons and bulls
decorate the gate,
emblems of the
Babylonian gods
Marduk, patron of
the city, and Adad,
god of storms.
The collection
also includes 17th-century carpet with flower motif from western Anatolia
building now houses the

photographic archives for
the state museums of Berlin.
A number of picturesque
garden cafés and fashionable
restaurants make this attractive
area very popular with tourists.
The exterior of the Märkisches Museum, echoing a medieval monastery
r Märkisches who wish to find out more

Museum about the history of the city can
visit other affiliated museums
Am Köllnischen Park 5. Map 10 D4. and monuments such as the
Tel 24 00 21 62.  Jannowitzbrücke, Nikolaikirche (see pp92–3) and
Märkisches Museum.  Jannowitz
the EphraimPalais (see p93).
brücke. @ 147, 248, 265, M48. Open
Surrounding the museum is the
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Presentation
Köllnischer Park, which has a
of mechanical musical instruments
3pm Sun. kennel built in 1928 to house
brown bears kept as city
This architectural pastiche is a mascots, and an unusual statue The Neo-Classical exterior of the
complex of redbrick buildings of Berlin artist Heinrich Zille. Ermeler-Haus
that most resembles a medieval
monastery. It was built between y Ermeler-Haus
1901 and 1908 to house a t Märkisches Ufer Ermeler House
collection relating to the history
Map 10 D4.  Märkisches Museum. Märkisches Ufer 10. Map 9 C4. 
of Berlin and the Brandenburg  Jannowitzbrücke. @ 147, 248, Märkisches Museum.  Jannowitz
region, from the time of the 265, M48. brücke. @ 147, 248, 265, M48.
earliest settlers to the present.
Inspired by the brickGothic Once called Neukölln am With its harmonious Neo
style popular in the Branden Wasser, this street, which runs Classical façade, Märkisches Ufer
burg region, architect Ludwig along the Spree river, is one of No. 10 stands out as one of the
Hoffmann included references the few corners of Berlin where most handsome villas in Berlin.
to Wittstock Castle and to it is still possible to see the This house was once the town
St Catherine’s Church in the city town much as it must have residence of Wilhelm Ferdinand
of Brandenburg. In the entrance looked in the 18th and 19th Ermeler, a wealthy merchant
hall, a statue of the hero Roland centuries. Eight picturesque and shopkeeper who made his
stands guard, a copy of the houses have been meticulously money trading in tobacco. It
15thcentury monument in the conserved here. originally stood on Fischerinsel
city of Brandenburg. The main Two NeoBaroque houses at on the opposite bank of the
hall features the original Gothic No. 16 and No. 18, known as river, at Breite Strasse No. 11,
portal from the Berlin residence OttoNagel Haus, used to but in 1968 the house was
of the Margraves of Branden contain a small museum dismantled and reconstructed
burg (see pp19–21), demolished displaying paintings by Otto on this new site. The house was
in 1931. Also featured is a Nagel, a great favourite with the remodelled in 1825 to Ermeler’s
horse’s head from the Schadow communist authorities. The specifications, with a decor that
Quadriga, which once crowned
the Brandenburg Gate (see p69).
A further collection in the
same building is devoted to the
Berlin theatre during the period
1730 to 1933, including many
posters, old programmes and
stage sets. One of the galleries
houses some charming old
time mechanical musical instru
ments, which can be heard
playing during special shows.
The Märkisches Museum is a
branch of the Stadtmuseum
Berlin organization, and those Barges moored alongside Märkisches Ufer
MUSEUM ISLAND І 87
includes a frieze alluding to house owes its

aspects of the tobacco business. fame, however, to
Restorers have recreated much its time as the home
of the original façade. The and bookshop of the
Rococo furniture dates from publisher, writer and critic
about 1760 and the notable Christoph Friedrich Nicolai
18th-century staircase has also (1733–1811). Nicolai acquired
been rebuilt. the house around 1788,
A modern hotel has been when he had it rebuilt to a
built to the rear of the house Neo-Classical design by Karl
facing Wallstrasse, using Friedrich Zelter to become a
Ermeler-Haus as its kitchens, bookshop and major German
while the first-floor rooms are cultural centre.
used for special events. One of the outstanding
personalities of the Berlin
Enlightenment, Nicolai was East German fashion now on show in the
u Gertrauden-
a great supporter of such Märkisches Museum (see opposite)
brücke notable cultural figures as the
St Gertrude’s Bridge Jewish philosopher Moses o Galgenhaus
Mendelssohn (see p104) and the Gallows House
Map 9 B4.  Spittelmarkt.
@ 265, M48. playwright Gotthold Ephraim
Brüderstrasse 10. Map 9 B4.
Lessing (1729–81). Other
Tel 206 13 29 13.  Spittelmarkt.
One of Berlin’s more regular literary visitors to the @ 147, 265, M48. Open only during
interesting bridges, this Nicolai-Haus at this period special events.
connects Fischer Island included Johann Gottfried
with Spittelmarkt at Schadow, Karl Wilhelm Local legend has it that
the point where Ramler and Daniel an innocent servant girl was
St Gertrude’s Hospital Chodowiecki, all once hanged in front of this
once stood. The commemorated building, which dates from
Gertraudenbrücke with a wall plaque. 1700. It was originally built as
was designed by Otto Between 1905 and the presbytery of the now
Stahn and built in 1894. 1935 the building vanished church of St Peter.
Standing in the housed a museum Redesigned in the Neo-
middle of the bridge devoted to Lessing. Classical style around 1805,
is a bronze statue of Today the rear the front portal and one of the
the hospital’s patron wing features a fine rooms on the ground floor are
saint, St Gertrude, by staircase from the all that remain of the original
Rudolf Siemering. Weydinger-Haus, Baroque structure.
A 13th-century demolished in 1935. Today the Galgenhaus
Christian mystic, Installed in the houses an archive of historic
St Gertrude is shown Statue of St Gertrude Nicolai-Haus in the photographs. These reveal
here as a Benedictine late 1970s, the the ways in which Berlin has
abbess. Leaning over a poor staircase previously stood developed over the years
youth she hands him a lily in the nearby Ermeler Haus through changes in its
(symbol of virginity), a distaff (see opposite). buildings and monuments.
(care for the poor) and a vessel
filled with wine (love). The
pedestal is surrounded by mice, Cölln
a reference to the fact that An ancient settlement in the area called Fischerinsel at the southern
Gertrude is patron saint of end of Museum Island, the village of Cölln has now been razed
farmland and graves – both almost to the ground. Not even a trace remains of the medieval
popular environments for mice. St Peter’s parish church. Until 1939, however, this working-class area
with its tangle of narrow streets
maintained a historic character
i Nicolai-Haus and unique identity of its own.
This vanished completely in the
Brüderstr. 13. Map 9 B4. Tel 20 45 81 1960s, when most of the buildings
63.  Spittelmarkt. @ 147, 265, M48. were demolished to be replaced
Open by appointment only. & with prefabricated tower blocks.
A few historic houses, including
Built around 1670, the Nicolai- Ermeler-Haus (see opposite), were
Haus is a fine example of reconstructed elsewhere, but the
Baroque architecture, with its atmosphere of this part of town
original, magnificent oak has changed forever. An engraving of old Cölln
staircase still in place. The
EAST OF THE CENTRE

This part of Berlin, belonging to the Mitte survived until World War II. The GDR regime
district, is the historic centre. A settlement replaced the huge apartment buildings and
called Berlin was first established on the department stores just to the north with
eastern bank of the Spree river in the a square, Marx-Engels-Forum, and built
13th century. Together with its twin the Fernsehturm (television tower). Their
settlement, Cölln, it grew into a town. This redevelopment of the Nikolaiviertel was
district contains traces of Berlin’s earliest controversial – buildings were faithfully
history, including the oldest surviving rebuilt but were grouped rather than being
church (Marienkirche). In later centuries, it placed in their original locations. The area
became a trade and residential district, but still offers cosy mews and alleys, which are
the old town (around today’s Nikolaiviertel) surrounded by postwar high-rise blocks.
Sights at a Glance
Churches Restaurants
3 Nikolaikirche see p233
0 Heiliggeistkapelle 1 A Tavola Allegretto
w Marienkirche pp96–7 2 Domklause
y Franziskaner Klosterkirche 3 Fernsehturm Sphere Restaurant
i Parochialkirche 4 Reinhard’s
Historic Buildings 5 Zur letzten Instanz
6 Zum Nussbaum
1 Rotes Rathaus
4 Knoblauchhaus
See also Street Finder
5 Palais Schwerin and Münze
maps 9 & 10
6 Ephraim-Palais
7 Gerichtslaube
t Stadtgericht
u Palais Podewils
TR.
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Detail from the Neptunbrunnen (Neptune Fountain) For keys to symbols see back flap
90  BERLIN AREA BY AREA`
Street-by-Street: Nikolaiviertel
St Nicholas’ Quarter, or the Nikolaiviertel, owes its name
to the parish church whose spires rise above the small
buildings in this part of town. The Nikolaiviertel is full of
narrow alleys crammed with popular restaurants, tiny
souvenir shops and small museums. The district retains
the old features of long-destroyed Old Berlin and is usually
filled with tourists looking for a place to rest after an
exhausting day of sightseeing – particularly in the summer.
Almost every other house is occupied by a restaurant, inn,
pub or café, so the area is quite lively until late at night.
3 Nikolaikirche
The church is now a museum, with
its original furnishings incorporated
into the exhibition.
7 Gerichtslaube
The replica arcades
and medieval
courthouse now
contain restaurants.
P
O
S
T
S
T
R
A
S
S
E
S
P
R
E
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U
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St George Slaying the Dragon

This statue once graced a
courtyard of the Stadtschloss.
4 Knoblauchhaus 6 Ephraim-Palais
This Biedermeier-style A feature of this palace is
room is on the first floor of the elegant façade.
the building, which is one Inside there is also an
of the few to survive impressive spiral
World War II damage. staircase and balustrade.
EAST OF THE CENTRE  91
1 . Rotes Rathaus
NORTH OF THE
This monumental town CENTRE
hall, which once stood
in a densely built-up
EAST OF THE
area, now rises from CENTRE
an empty square.
Spree
MUSEUM
ISLAND
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 9 & 10
The Stadthaus, built

in 1911 by Ludwig
Hoffmann, now
houses some of the
departments of the
Town Hall.
2 . Nikolaiviertel
S
JÜD
P
The narrow alleys of this district

A R
S
M
N A
T
were a source of inspiration for

D S
AM
ENS
A SE
Gotthold Ephraim Lessing, who

U
ND
E
lived here from 1752 to 1755.

R
TRA
LE
ÜH
SSE
M
The Hemp Museum

(Hanfmuseum) is a
MOLKEN small museum that
MARKT STR specializes in all aspects
ALA
UER of the hemp plant.
STR
ASS
E
Key
Suggested route
0 metres 75
0 yards 75
ROLA
NDUF
ER
Canal locks on
5 Palais Schwerin and Münze
the Spree The palace façade is decorated with a Neo-Classical
frieze by Johann Gottfried Schadow, depicting the
development of metal-processing and coin-minting.
the offices of the mayor, the

magistrates’ offices and state
rooms. The forecourt sculptures
were added in 1958. These are by
Fritz Cremer and depict Berliners
helping to rebuild the city.
2 Nikolaiviertel
Map 9 C3, C4.  &  Alexander
platz.  Klosterstrasse. @ 100, 200,
248, M48.
This small area on the bank

of the Spree, known as the
Nikolaiviertel (St Nicholas The interior of the Nikolaikirche, one of
The eponymous red-brick façade that gives Quarter), is a favourite place for Berlin’s oldest churches
the Red Town Hall its name strolling, for both Berliners and
tourists. Some of Berlin’s oldest 3 Nikolaikirche
1 Rotes Rathaus houses stood here until they
Nikolaikirchplatz. Map 9 C3. Tel 24 00
Red Town Hall were destroyed in World War II. 21 62.  &  Alexanderplatz. 
The redevelopment of the whole Klosterstrasse. @ 100, 200, 248, M48.
Rathausstrasse 15. Map 9 C3.
Tel 90 26 0.  &  Alexanderplatz.
area, carried out by the GDR Open 10am–6pm daily. 7
 Klosterstrasse. @ 100, 200, 248, government between 1979
M48. Closed to the public. and 1987, was an interesting, if The Nikolaikirche is the oldest
somewhat controversial, attempt sacred building of historic
This impressive structure is at recreating a medieval village. Berlin. The original structure
Berlin’s main town hall. Its With the exception of one or two erected on this site was started
predecessor was a much more restored buildings, the Nikolai probably around 1230, when
modest building and by the viertel consists of replicas of the town was granted its
end of the 19th century it was historic buildings. municipal rights. What remains
insufficient to meet the needs The narrow streets of the now of this stone building is
of the growing metropolis. Nikolaiviertel tempt the visitor the massive base of the two
The present building was with their small shops, as well tower façade of the present
designed by Hermann Friedrich as many cafés, bars and restau church, which dates from
Waesemann, and the construc rants. One of the most popular is c.1300. The presbytery was
tion went on from 1861 until Zum Nussbaum, a historical inn completed around 1402, but
1869. The architect took his that was once located on Fischer the construction of the main
main inspiration from Italian Island. The original building, building went on until the mid
Renaissance municipal buildings, dating from 1507, was destroyed 15th century. The result was a
but the tower is reminiscent of but was subsequently recon magnificent Gothic brick hall
Laon cathedral in France. The structed at the junction of Am church, featuring a chancel with
walls are made from red brick Nussbaum and Propststrasse. an ambulatory and a row of low
and it was this, rather than
the political orientation of the
mayors, that gave the town hall
its name. The building has a
continuous frieze known as
the “stone chronicle”, which was
added in 1879. It features scenes
and figures from the city’s history
and the development of its
economy and science.
The Rotes Rathaus was badly
damaged during World War II
and, following its reconstruction
(1951–8), it became the seat
of the East Berlin authorities.
The West Berlin magistrate
was housed in the Schöneberg
town hall (see p187). After the
reunification of Germany, the
Rotes Rathaus became the
centre of authority, housing Riverside buildings of the Nikolaiviertel
EAST OF THE CENTRE І 93
chapels. In 1877 Hermann

Blankenstein, who conducted
the church restoration works,
removed most of its Baroque
modifications and recon
structed the front towers.
Destroyed by bombing in
1945, the Nikolaikirche was
eventually rebuilt in 1987 and
shows a permanent exhibit on
Berlin’s history. The west wall of
the southern nave contains
Andreas Schlüter’s monument
to the goldsmith Daniel Männlich
and his wife, which features a A fine example of German Baroque architecture, the Ephraim-Palais
gilded relief portrait of the
couple above a mock doorway. palace kept its beautiful palace was built by Friedrich
sculptured window cornices, Wilhelm Diterichs in 1766 for
the interior wooden staircase, Nathan Veitel Heinrich Ephraim,
4 Knoblauchhaus and the magnificent cartouche Frederick the Great’s mint
featuring the von Schwerin master and court jeweller.
Poststrasse 23. Map 9 C3. Tel 24 00
21 62.  &  Alexanderplatz.
family crest. During the widening of the
 Klosterstrasse. @ 248, M48. The adjoining house is the Mühlendamm bridge in 1935
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & mint, which was built in 1936. the palace was demolished,
Its façade is decorated with a which may have been due in
A small town house in copy of the frieze that once some part to the Jewish origin
Poststrasse, the Knoblauchhaus adorned the previous Neo of its owner. Parts of the façade,
is the only Baroque building Classical mint building in Werder saved from demolition, were
in Nikolaiviertel that escaped scher Markt. The antique style stored in a warehouse in the
damage during World War II. of the frieze was designed by western part of the city. In 1983
It was built in 1759 for the Friedrich Gilly and produced in they were sent to East Berlin
Knoblauch family, which the workshop of J G Schadow. and used in the reconstruction
includes the famous architect, of the palace, which was
Eduard Knoblauch. His works erected a few metres from its
include, among others, the 6 Ephraim-Palais original site. One of the first
Neue Synagoge (see p104). Poststrasse 16. Map 9 C3. Tel 24 00
floor rooms features a restored
The current appearance of 21 62.  &  Alexanderplatz. Baroque ceiling, designed by
the building is the result of  Klosterstrasse. @ 248, M48. Andreas Schlüter. The ceiling
work carried out in 1835, when Open 10am–6pm Tue & Thu–Sun, previously adorned Palais
the façade was given a Neo noon–8pm Wed. & Wartenberg, which was
Classical look. The ground dismantled in 1889.
floor houses a popular wine bar, The corner entrance of the Currently EphraimPalais
while the upper floors belong to EphraimPalais, standing at houses a branch of the
a museum. On the first floor it is the junction of Poststrasse Stadtmuseum Berlin (Berlin
possible to see the interior of an and Mühlendamm, used to City Museum). It shows a series
early 19thcentury middleclass be called “die schönste Ecke of temporary exhibitions on
home, including a beautiful Berlins”, meaning “Berlin’s most Berlin’s local artistic and
Biedermeierstyle room. beautiful corner”. This Baroque cultural history.
5 Palais Schwerin
and Münze
Molkenmarkt 1–3. Map 9 C4.
 &  Alexanderplatz.
 Klosterstrasse. @ 248, M48.
These two adjoining houses

have quite different histories.
The older one, at Molkenmarkt
No. 2, is Palais Schwerin, which
was built by Jean de Bodt in
1704 for a government minister,
Otto von Schwerin. Despite
subsequent remodelling, the Frieze from the façade of the Münze (the Mint)
7 Gerichtslaube The chapel is a fine example

Poststrasse. 28. Map 9 C3. Tel 241 56
of Gothic brick construction.
97.  &  Alexanderplatz. Its modest interior features a
 Klosterstrasse. @ 100, 200, 15th-century star-shaped vault.
248, M48, TXL. The supports under the vault
are decorated with half-statues
This small building, with its of prophets and saints.
sharply angled arcades, has had
a turbulent history. It was built
around 1280 as part of Berlin’s q Neptunbrunnen
old town hall in Spandauer Neptune Fountain
Strasse. The original building Statues of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels
Spandauer Strasse (Rathausvorplatz).
was a single-storey arcaded in Marx-Engels-Forum
Map 9 C3.  &  Alexanderplatz.
construction with vaults  Hackescher Markt. @ 100, 200.
supported by a central pillar. by Ludwig Engelhart. Due to
It was open on three sides and the extension of an under- This magnificent, Neo-Baroque
adjoined the shorter wall of the ground line, which started in style fountain provides a
town hall. A further storey was 2010, the statues were moved splendid feature on the main
added in 1485 to provide a hall, into a corner. The square’s fate axis of the town hall building. It
to which the magnificent lattice after the work is completed was created in 1886 to stand in
vaults were added a few is still being discussed. Some front of the former Stadtschloss
decades later, in 1555. prefer that the area be built (Berlin Castle). It was moved to
In 1692, Johann Arnold up with small-scale develop- its present site in 1969.
Nering refurbished the town ments, while others wish it to The statue of Neptune in a
hall in a Baroque style but left be recreated as a public forum. dynamic pose at the centre
the arcades unaltered. Then, in of the fountain is surrounded
1868, the whole structure was by four figures representing
dismantled to provide space for 9 DDR Museum Germany’s greatest rivers: the
the new town hall, the Rotes Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 1.
Rhine, the Vistula, the Oder and
Rathaus (see p92). The Baroque Map 9 B3. Tel 847 12 37 31. the Elbe. The naturalism of the
part was lost forever, but the  Hackescher Markt. @ 100, 200. composition and the attention
Gothic arcades and the first- Open 10am–8pm daily (to 10pm Sat). to detail, such as the beautiful
floor hall were moved to the ∑ ddr-museum.de bronze fishes, crayfish and
palace gardens in Babelsberg, fishing nets, are noteworthy.
where they were reassembled This hands-on museum on the The fountain will return to its
as a building in their own right Spree embankment opposite the former home once reconstruction
(see pp212–13). When the Berlin cathedral gives an insight of the Stadtschloss (to be
Nikolaiviertel was undergoing into the daily lives of East Germans known as Humboldt-Forum)
renovation it was decided to and demonstrates how the secret is completed in 2019.
restore the court of justice as police kept a watchful eye on the
well. The present building in city’s people. Exhibits include a
Poststrasse is a copy of a part of replica of a typical living room and
the former town hall, erected a shiny Trabant car.
on a different site from the
original one. Inside it is a
restaurant serving local cuisine. 0 Heiliggeistkapelle
Chapel of the Holy Spirit
8 Marx-Engels- Spandauer Strasse 1. Map 9 B2.
 Hackescher Markt. @ 100, 200.
Forum v M4, M5, M6.
Map 9 C3.  Hackescher Markt
or Alexanderplatz. @ 100, 200, This modest Gothic structure
248, M48. is the only surviving hospital
chapel in Berlin. It was built as
This vast square, which stretches part of a hospital complex in
from the Neptune fountain to the second half of the 13th
the Spree river in the west, was century, but was subsequently
given the inappropriate name rebuilt in the 15th century.
Marx-Engels-Forum (it is not The hospital was demolished Neptune surrounded by goddesses
really a forum). Devoid of any in 1825, but the chapel was personifying Germany’s rivers
surroundings, the only features retained. In 1906, it was made
in this square are the statues of into a newly erected College
Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels. of Trade, designed by Cremer
w Marienkirche
The statues, added in 1986, are and Wolffenstein. See pp96–7.
e Fernsehturm VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The television tower, called by the locals Telespargel, Practical Information

or toothpick, remains to this day the city’s tallest Panoramastrasse.
Map 9 C2.
structure, at 368 m (1,207 ft), and one of the tallest Tel 247 57 537.
structures in Europe. The tower was built in 1969 Open Mar–Oct: 9am–midnight
to a design by a team of architects including Fritz daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–midnight
Dieter and Günter Franke, with the help of Swedish daily.
engineering experts. However, the idea for such a Transport
colossal tower in Berlin originated much earlier  &  Alexanderplatz. @ 100,
200, M48, TXL. v M2, M4, M5, M6.
from Hermann Henselmann (creator of the Karl-
Marx-Allee development), in the Socialist-Realist
style. The interior was given a face-lift in 2012.
The
television
antenna
is visible all
over Berlin.
Transmitter
aerials Viewing Platform
Situated inside a steel-
clad giant sphere,
the viewing
platform is 203 m
(666 ft) above
the ground.
Concrete
structure rising
to 250 m (820 ft)
Television Tower The concrete shaft

The slim silhouette of the contains two elevators that
Fernsehturm is visible from almost carry passengers to the café
any point in Berlin. The ticket office and viewing platform.
and elevator entrance are located The metal
at the base of the tower. sphere
is covered
with steel
cladding. The elevators are small,
resulting in long queues
Sphere Restaurant at the base of the tower.
One of the attractions of the
tower is the revolving restaurant.
A full rotation takes about half an
hour, so it is possible to get a
bird’s-eye view of the whole city
while sipping a cup of coffee.
View from the Tower

On a clear day the viewing
platform offers a full view of
Berlin. Visibility can reach
up to 40 km (25 miles).
w Marienkirche
St Mary’s Church, or the Marienkirche, was first established
as a parish church in the second half of the 13th century.
Construction started around 1280 and was completed early
in the 14th century. During reconstruction works in 1380,
following a fire, the church was altered slightly but its overall
shape changed only in the 15th century, when it acquired the
front tower. In 1790, the tower was crowned with a dome
designed by Carl Gotthard Langhans. The church was once
hemmed in by buildings, but today it stands alone in the
shadow of the Fernsehturm (Television Tower). The early Gothic
hall design and the lavish decorative touches make this church
one of the most interesting in Berlin.
Crucifixion (1562)
This image of Christ,
flanked by Moses and
St John the Baptist,
was painted in the
Mannerist style by
Michael Rihestein.
Retable
The central part of the Gothic altar, dating
from 1510, features figures of three
unknown monks.
KEY
1 Totentanz, meaning “dance of

death”, is the name of a 22-m- (72-ft-)
long Gothic wall fresco, dating
from 1485.
2 The dome that crowns the
tower includes both Baroque and Main
Neo-Gothic elements. entrance
. Pulpit VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Carved from alabaster,
this masterpiece by Practical Information
Andreas Schlüter, Karl-Liebknecht-Str 8.
completed in 1703, is Map 9 C2.
placed by the fourth Tel 24 75 95 10.
pillar. The pulpit is Open 10am–6pm daily.
decorated with
bas-reliefs of St John Transport
the Baptist and the  &  Alexanderplatz. @ 100,
personifications of 200, 248, M48, TXL. v M4,
the Virtues. M5, M6.
Von Röbel
Family Tomb
This richly decorated
Mannerist-Baroque
tomb of Ehrentreich
and Anna von Röbel
was probably built
after 1630.
Main Altar
The Baroque altar was designed by
Andreas Krüger c.1762. The paintings,
including Deposition from the Cross in the
centre and Christ on the Mount of Olives
and Doubting Thomas on the sides, are
the works of Christian Bernhard Rode.
. Baptismal Font
This Gothic font dating from 1437 is
supported by three black dragons and
decorated with the figures of Jesus
Christ, Mary and the Apostles.
What remains, however, is still

worth seeing, especially the
magnificent staircase in the
form of overlying ellipses, an
example of Secession archi-
tecture at its boldest. The slim
Neo-Gothic pillars and the
Neo-Baroque balustrades
further enhance the fairy-
tale interior.
y Franziskaner
Klosterkirche
Franciscan Friary Church
Klosterstrasse 74. Map 10 D3.
 Klosterstrasse. @ 248.
These picturesque ruins

surrounded by greenery are
the remains of an early Gothic
Franciscan church. The Fran-
ciscan friars settled in Berlin in
the early 13th century. Between
The magnificent interior of the Stadtgericht 1250 and 1265 they built a
church and a friary, which
r Alexanderplatz by characterless 1960s edifices, survived almost unchanged
Map 10 D2.  &  Alexanderplatz.
including the Park Inn (formerly until 1945. The church was
@ 100, 200, 248, M48. Hotel Stadt Berlin) and the a triple-nave basilica with
v M5, M6, M8. Fernsehturm (see p95). an elongated presbytery,
Alexanderplatz awaits its next widening into a heptagonal
Alexanderplatz, or “Alex” as it is transformation, which might section that was added to the
locally called, has a long history, happen soon: a winning structure in c.1300. Protestants
although it would be difficult design has been chosen from took over the church after the
now to find any visible traces a competition for the square’s Reformation and the friary
of the past. Once called Ochsen- redevelopment. became a famous grammar
markt (oxen market), it was the school, whose graduates
site of a cattle and wool market. included Prussian Chancellor
It was later renamed after Tsar t Stadtgericht Otto von Bismarck.
Alexander I, who visited Berlin Courts of Justice The friary was so damaged
in 1805. At the time, the square in World War II that it was
Littenstrasse 13–17. Map 10 D3.
boasted a magnificent monu-  &  Alexanderplatz or
subsequently demolished,
mental colonnade designed  Klosterstrasse. @ 248.
while the church was partially
by Carl von Gontard (see p187). reconstructed in 2003–4
With the passage of time, This gigantic building, and is now a venue for
many houses and shops sprang situated on a long stretch concerts and exhibitions.
up around the square, and a of Littenstrasse, might not
market hall and an urban train seem particularly inviting,
line were built nearby. “Alex” but its interior hides a true
had become one of the town’s masterpiece of the Viennese
busiest spots. Its frenzied Secession style of architecture.
atmosphere was captured by At the time of its construction,
Alfred Döblin (1878–1957) in the building was the largest in
his novel Berlin Alexanderplatz. Berlin after the Stadtschloss
In 1929, attempts were made (see p76). The Neo-Baroque
to develop the square, though structure, built between 1896
only two office buildings were and 1905, was designed by
added – the Alexanderhaus and Paul Thomer and Rudolf
the Berolinahaus. These two, Mönnich, but its final shape
both by Peter Behrens, are still is the work of Otto Schmalz.
standing today. World War II This maze-like complex, with
erased most of the square’s its 11 inner courtyards, was Ruins of the Franziskaner Klosterkirche
buildings. It is now surrounded partly demolished in 1969. (Franciscan Friary Church)
The giant Corinthian capitals, chapels framing a central tower. town wall. Their history goes
emerging from the grass near Unfortunately, Nering died as back to medieval times, but
the church ruins, are from a construction started in 1695. their present form dates from
portal from the Stadtschloss The work was continued by the 18th century. The houses
(Berlin Castle) (see p76). Martin Grünberg, but the are actually the result of an
collapse of the nearly almost total reconstruction
completed vaults forced a carried out after World War II.
change in the design. Instead This was when one of the
of the intended tower over the houses acquired its spiral
main structure, a vestibule Rococo staircase, which came
with a front tower was built. from a dismantled house on
The church was comp- the Fischerinsel.
leted in 1703, but The historic Zur
then, in 1714, its letzten Instanz was
tower was enlarged first established in
in order to accom- 1621 and was a hit
modate a carillon. with local lawyers.
World War II had a Full of charm and
devastating effect on decorated with old
the Parochialkirche. The memorabilia, the inn
interior was completely Medallion from a has attracted such
Façade of the twice-restored destroyed, and the headstone in the illustrious visitors as
Palais Podewils tower collapsed. Parochialkirche Charlie Chaplin and
Following stabilization Angela Merkel, who
u Palais Podewils of the main structure, the façade have come to enjoy the
Podewils Palace was restored, with some traditional German food and
reproduced historic elements drink on offer (see p233).
Klosterstrasse 68–70. Map 10 D3.
 Klosterstrasse. @ 248.
set within a plain interior. In
2016, a replica of the former
This charming Baroque palace, tower top was mounted. It bears p Stadtmauer
set back from the street, was a new carillon with 52 bells. Town Wall
built between 1701 and 1704
Waisenstrasse. Map 10 D3.  & 
for the Royal Court’s counsellor,
Caspar Jean de Bodt. Its owes its o Gaststätte Zur Alexanderplatz or  Klosterstrasse.
@ 248.
present name to its subsequent letzten Instanz
owner, a minister of state called Inn of the Last Instance The town wall that once
von Podewils, who bought the surrounded the settlements
Waisenstrasse 14–16. Map 10 D3.
palace in 1732.  Klosterstrasse. @ 248.
of Berlin and Cölln was erected
After World War II, the palace in the second half of the 13th
was restored twice: in 1954, The small street at the rear of century. The ring of fortifications,
and then again in 1966 after the Parochialkirche leads built from brick and fieldstone,
it had been damaged by fire. directly to one of the oldest was made taller in the 14th
The carefully reconstructed inns in Berlin, Zur letzten century. Having finally lost its
building did not lose much Instanz, which translates as military significance by the
of its austere beauty, but the the Inn of the Last Instance. 17th century, the wall was
interior completely changed to The inn occupies one of the almost entirely dismantled,
suit its current needs. It is now four picturesque houses on though some small sections
a performance space used by Waisenstrasse – the only survive around Waisenstrasse,
several arts companies and a survivors of the whole row of having been incorporated into
number of dance groups, who houses that once adjoined the other buildings.
conduct classes on the site.
i Parochialkirche
Parish Church
Klosterstr. 67. Map 10 D3.
Tel 24 75 95 10.  Klosterstrasse.
@ 248. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri.
This building was, at one time,

one of the most beautiful
Baroque churches in Berlin.
Johann Arnold Nering prepared
the initial design, with four The patio at Zur letzten Instanz, the historic, rustic pub-restaurant in eastern Berlin
NORTH OF THE CENTRE

The area northwest of Alexanderplatz, moved the hay barns – a fire hazard – out
formerly called Spandauer Vorstadt, is a of the city limits. From that time it became
historic district that has developed into a a refuge for Jews fleeing Russia and Eastern
lively neighbourhood, buzzing with bars, Europe. To the north is Prenzlauer Berg, a
cafés and designer shops. The southeastern bohemian hub in the 1990s and now, after
part of the area is known as Scheunenviertel gentrification, a beautiful and pleasant
(Barn Quarter). In 1672, the Great Elector place to live and visit.
Sights at a Glance
Streets and Parks Museums Others
3 Oranienburger Strasse 2 Centrum Judaicum 5 Hackesche Höfe
4 Monbijoupark h Brecht-Weigel-Gedenkstätte 6 Gedenkstätte Grosse Hamburger
9 Sophienstrasse k Museum für Naturkunde Strasse
0 Alte and Neue Schönhauser l Hamburger Bahnhof pp114–15 t Wasserturm
Strasse Cemeteries u Kulturbrauerei
w Torstrasse i Prater
7 Alter Jüdischer Friedhof
e Kollwitzplatz s Sammlung Boros
y Jüdischer Friedhof
Churches and Synagogues f Charité
g Dorotheenstädtischer Friedhof
j Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer
1 Neue Synagoge pp110–11
Eberswalder
8 Sophienkirche Strasse
r Synagogue Rykestrasse ALDER STR. DANZ
ER S W
EB S T R A IG E R
o Zionskirche OD SSE
S SE ER SCHÖNHAUSER
P RE N Z L A U E R
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ER KARL- REIN
TR .
PLATZ Spree
EN ST R. Hackescher
M A RI
Markt
SCHIF
Restaurants 15 Monsieur Vuong

FB A
ER
see pp233–5
U
DA
MM 16 Muret La Barba
1 Al Contadino sotto le Stelle 17 Nola’s am Weinberg
2 Anna Blumne 18 Oxymoron
3 Beth Café 19 Pasternak
4 Boulevard Friedrichstrasse 20 Reinstoff
5 Cafe Fleury 21 Restauration 1900
6 Cenacolo 22 Sarah Wiener Café and
7 Chicago Williams BBQ Restaurant
8 Dada Falafel 23 Savanna
9 Gambrinus trifft Bacchus 24 Sophieneck
10 Gugelhof 25 Transit
11 Habel Weinkultur and Brasserie 26 Yam Yam
12 Hackescher Hof 27 Yosoy
See also Streetfinder 13 Khushi 28 Zum Schusterjungen
maps 1, 2, 8 & 9 14 Mao Thai
The golden Neue Synagoge For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Scheunenviertel
Until World War II Scheunenviertel lay at the 1 . Neue
heart of Berlin’s large Jewish district. During the Synagoge
Sparkling with
19th century the community flourished, its
gold, the restored
prosperity reflected in grand buildings such as New Synagogue
the Neue Synagoge, which opened in 1866 in the is used for
presence of Chancellor Otto von Bismarck. Left to services.
crumble for nearly 50 years after the double
devastations of the Nazis and Allied bombing,
the district has enjoyed a huge revival since the
fall of the Wall. Cafés and bars opened and
visitors can expect to find some of the liveliest
nightlife in East Berlin.
E
S
S
A
R
T
S
Y
K
S
L
O
H
C
U
T
The Postfuhramt
was used originally as
stables for the horses
that delivered the post.
Its ceramic-clad façade
resembles a palace O
more than a post office R
A
and there are plans to N
IE
turn it into a hotel. N
2 Centrum Judaicum B
U
R
Standing next to the Neue G
ER
Synagoge, the Jewish ST
0 metres 50
Centre houses R
A
0 yards 50 documents relating SS
E
to the history and
Key
cultural heritage of
Suggested route the Berlin Jews.
Heckmann-Höfe
Today these lavishly
restored yards, the
most elegant in
Berlin, attract visitors
with a restaurant S-Bahn
and fashionable
line
clothes shops.
NORTH OF THE CENTRE  103
8 Sophienkirche
This small Protestant church
was founded in 1712 by
Queen Sophie Luisa. NORTH OF THE
CENTRE
EAST OF THE
AROUND
CENTRE
UNTER DEN
LINDEN
Locator Map
6 Gedenkstätte Grosse
Hamburger Strasse
This modest memorial to the
Berlin Jews stands on the site
of the city’s first Jewish old
people’s home.
Dorotheenstädtischer
Friedhof
GROSSE
HAMBUR
5 . Hackesche Höfe
This attractive series of
interconnected courtyards
is home to many popular
GER STR
entertainment venues.
ASSE
7 Alter Jüdischer Friedhof

Now a tree-filled park, the
city’s oldest Jewish cemetery
HAC was systematically destroyed
KES
CHE by the Gestapo in 1943.
R M
ARK
T
Fernsehturm
(television tower)
4 Monbijoupark
Once the grounds of a royal palace, this
small park contains a marble bust of the
poet Adelbert von Chamisso.
1 Neue Synagoge
New Synagogue
Oranienburger Strasse 30. Map 9 A1.
Tel 880 28 300.  Oranienburger
Strasse. v M1, M6. Open Apr–Sep:
10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm
Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm Sun–Thu,
10am–3pm Fri. & Closed Jewish
festivals. ^
The building of the New

Synagogue was started in 1859
by architect Eduard Knoblauch,
and completed in 1866. The
design, a highly sophisticated The Centrum Judaicum, centre for research into Jewish heritage
response to the asymmetrical
shape of the plot of land, used 2 Centrum the greatest of all Jewish
a narrow façade flanked by a Judaicum thinkers and social activists,
pair of towers and crowned Jewish Centre Moses Mendelssohn.
with a dome containing a round
vestibule. Small rooms opened Oranienburger Strasse 28–30. Map 9
off the vestibule, including A1. Tel 880 28 300.  Oranienburger 3 Oranienburger
Strasse. v M1, M6. Open Apr–Sep:
an anteroom and two prayer
rooms – one large and one 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Strasse
Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm Sun–Thu, Map 8 F1, 9 A1, 9 B2.
small. The two towers opened
10am–3pm Fri. & Closed Jewish  Oranienburger Strasse or
onto a staircase leading to festivals. ^ ∑ www.centrum
the galleries, and the main Hackescher Markt.  Oranienburger
judaicum.de Tor. v 12, M1, M4, M5, M6.
hall had space for around 3,000
worshippers. An innovative use The entrance to the Jewish
of iron in the construction of Centre is easy to recognize Oranienburger Strasse is home
the roof and galleries put the thanks to the policemen to many of Berlin’s most popular
synagogue at the forefront of permanently stationed here. nightspots. People of all ages
19th-century civil engineering. All visitors must undergo a flock here, spending pleasant
This fascinating structure was strict security check involving hours in the area’s numerous
Berlin’s largest synagogue until the use of a metal detector; cafés, restaurants and bars. The
9 November 1938, when it the guards are polite but firm. district has traditionally been
was partially destroyed during The Centrum Judaicum a centre for alternative culture,
the infamous Kristallnacht occupies the former premises and home to the famous state-
(see pp30–31). The building of the Jewish community sponsored Tacheles centre for
was damaged further by Allied council, and contains a library, the arts, previously occupied
bombing in 1943 and was archives and a research centre by artist squatters. The Tacheles
finally demolished in 1958 devoted to the history and centre has closed, but many
by government authorities. cultural heritage of the Jews good art galleries remain in this
Reconstruction began in 1988 of Berlin. Next door to the area. As you stroll around the
and was completed with due Centrum, the restored rooms district it is worth looking out
ceremony in 1995. The building of the Neue Synagoge are used for a number of interesting
is used for public exhibitions to exhibit various materials buildings, such as the one at
by the Centrum Judaicum and relating to the local Jewish Oranienburger Strasse No. 71–2,
includes a small prayer room. community, including one of which was built by Christian
Moses Mendelssohn (1729–1786)

One of the greatest German philosophers of
the 18th century, Moses Mendelssohn arrived
in Berlin in 1743 and was a central figure in
the Jewish struggle for citizenship rights.
About 50 years later the first Jewish family
was granted full civic rights; however, it was
not until the Emancipation Edict of 1812
that Jewish men finally became full citizens.
The grandfather of composer Felix
Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, he is immortalized in the drama Nathan
der Weise (Nathan the Wise) by his friend Gotthold Ephraim Lessing.
The Neue Synagoge with its splendidly
reconstructed dome
NORTH OF THE CENTRE І 105
Friedrich Becherer in 1789 for 6 Gedenkstätte

the Great National Masonic Grosse Hamburger
Lodge of Germany.
Note that there is a seedy red- Strasse
light edge to the area at night. Grosse Hamburger Strasse
Memorial
Grosse Hamburger Strasse. Map 9 B1.
4 Monbijoupark  Hackescher Markt. v 12, M1, M4,
Monbijou Park M5, M6.
Oranienburger Strasse. Map 9 B2. 
Oranienburger Strasse or Hackescher
Until the years leading up to
Markt. v M1, M4, M5, M6. World War II, Grosse Hamburger
Strasse was one of the main
This small park, situated streets of Berlin’s Jewish quarter.
between Oranienburger Strasse It was home to several Jewish
and the Spree river, was once schools, an old people’s home
the grounds of the Monbijou One of the striking inner courtyards at the and the city’s oldest Jewish
Palace. Damaged by bombing Hackesche Höfe cemetery, established in 1672.
during World War II, the ruined The home was used during
palace was dismantled in 1960. buildings. The development World War II as a detention
A rare green space in this part of dates from 1906, and was centre for many thousands of
the city, the well-kept park is a designed by Kurt Berendt and Berlin Jews condemned to death
pleasant place to spend time August Endell, both of whom in the camps at Auschwitz and
relaxing. It features a marble were outstanding exponents Theresienstadt. The building was
bust of the poet Adelbert von of the German Secession style. later destroyed, and in its place
Chamisso, and there is also Damaged during World War II, now stands a small monument
an open-air swimming pool Hackesche Höfe has been representing a group of Jews
for children. restored to its original splendour. being led to their deaths. A
The first courtyard is especially modest commemorative plaque
attractive, featuring glazed is displayed nearby.
5 Hackesche Höfe facings with geometric designs Nearby, at Grosse Hamburger
decorated in fabulous colours. Strasse No. 27, stands a Jewish
Rosenthaler Strasse 40–41. Map 9 B1,
9 B2.  Hackescher Markt.  A whole range of restaurants, school founded in 1778 by
Weinmeisterstrasse v M1, M4, M5, M6. bars, art galleries, shops and Moses Mendelssohn. Rebuilt in
restaurants can be found 1906, the building was reopen-
Running from Oranienburger here, as well as offices and ed as a Jewish secondary school
Strasse and Rosenthaler up apartments on the upper floors. in 1993. The empty space once
as far as Sophienstrasse, the The complex also has its occupied by house No. 15–16,
Hackesche Höfe (Höfe means own theatre, the Hackesche which was destroyed by World
“yards”) is a huge, early Hoftheater, specializing in War II bombing, is now an
20th-century complex. It mime. For many Berliners the installation, The Missing House
is made up of an intricate Hackesche Höfe has become by Christian Boltanski, with
series of nine interconnecting something of a cult spot, and plaques recording the names
courtyards surrounded by tall for visitors it is definitely a sight and professions of the former
and beautifully proportioned not to be missed. inhabitants of the house.
The Gedenkstätte Grosse Hamburger Strasse, commemorating Berlin Jews murdered in the Holocaust
7 Alter Jüdischer
Friedhof
Old Jewish Cemetery
Grosse Hamburger Strasse. Map 9 B2.
 Hackescher Markt. v M1.
The Old Jewish Cemetery was

established in 1672 and, until
1827 when it was finally declared
full, it provided the resting place
for over 12,000 Berliners. After
this date Jews were buried in
cemeteries in Schönhauser Allee
and in HerbertBaumStrasse.
The Alter Jüdischer Friedhof was
destroyed by the Nazis in 1943,
and in 1945 the site was turned
into a park. Embedded in the
original cemetery wall, a handful
of Baroque masebas (or tomb
stones) continue to provide a
poignant reminder of the past. Eighteenth-century buildings along Sophienstrasse
A maseba stands on the grave
of the philosopher Moses In 1892 the building was and redevelopment. Now
Mendelssohn (see p104), extended to include a presby these modest but charming
erected in 1990 by members tery, though the church still 18thcentury NeoClassical
of the Jewish community. retains its original Baroque buildings are home to a
character. A modest, rectangular number of different arts
structure, Sophienkirche is and crafts workshops, cosy
8 Sophienkirche typical of its period, with the bars, unusual boutiques, a
tower adjoining the narrower puppet theatre and interesting
Grosse Hamburger Str. 31. Map 9 B1.
side elevation. The interior still art galleries.
Tel 308 79 20.  Hackescher Markt.
 Weinmeisterstrasse. v M1, M4,
contains a number of its original One building with a
M5, M6. Open May–Sep: 3–6pm Wed, 18thcentury furnishings, particularly eventful history
3–5pm Sat. 5 10am Sun. including the pulpit and the font. is Sophienstrasse No. 18. The
Several gravestones, some house was erected in 1852,
A narrow passageway and a from the 18th century, have although its striking and
picturesque gate take you survived in the small cemetery picturesque terracotta double
through to this small Baroque surrounding the church. doorway dates from the time
church. Founded in 1712 by of its extensive restoration,
Queen Sophie Luisa, this was undertaken in 1904 by Joseph
the first parish church of the 9 Sophienstrasse Franckel and Theodor Kampf
newly developed Spandauer Map 9 B1. Sammlung Hoffmann
meyer on behalf of the Crafts
Vorstadt area (see p101). Johann Sophienstrasse 21. Tel 28 49 91 20. Society. Founded in 1844, the
Friedrich Grael designed  Hackescher Markt.  Wein Crafts Society moved its head
the tower, which was built meisterstrasse. v M1, M4, M5, M6. quarters to Sophienstrasse in
between 1729 and 1735. Open 11am–4pm Sat, by 1905. On 14 November 1918
appointment. & the very same house was used
as the venue for the first
The area around Sophienstrasse meeting of the Spartacus
and Gipsstrasse was first settled League, which was later to
at the end of the 17th century. become the Communist Party
In fact, Sophienstrasse was once of Germany. Today, No. 18
the main street of Spandauer houses a modern dance and
Vorstadt. The area underwent theatre company.
extensive restoration during the The main door of the house at
1980s that preserved its small Sophienstrasse No. 21 leads into
town character. Today, the a long row of interior courtyards
narrow lanes and threestorey running up as far as Gipsstrasse.
buildings are reminiscent of In one of these courtyards is a
Prague’s Old Town. It was one private modern art gallery, the
of the first parts of East Berlin in Sammlung Hoffmann, which
Interior of the Sophienkirche with its which renovation was chosen in can be reached by passing
original 18th-century pulpit favour of largescale demolition through a brightly lit tunnel.
0 Alte and Neue poignant example is at Neue

Schönhauser Schönhauser Strasse No. 14.
This interesting old house in the
Strasse German Neo-Renaissance style
Map 9 B1, 9 C1.  Hackescher Markt. was built in 1891 to a design
 Weinmeisterstrasse. v M1. by Alfred Messel. The first-floor
rooms were home to the first
Alte Schönhauser Strasse is public reading-room in Berlin,
one of the oldest streets in while on the ground floor was a
the Spandauer Vorstadt Volkskaffeehaus, a soup-kitchen,
district, running from the with separate rooms for men
centre of Berlin to Pankow and women. Here the poor of
and Schönhausen. In the 18th the neighbourhood could
and 19th centuries this was a get a free bowl of soup and
popular residential area among a cup of ersatz (imitation)
wealthy merchants. During coffee. Ironically, in the 1990s,
World War II, however, its the building became home to
proximity to the neighbouring one of Berlin’s most fashion- Café in bustling Torstrasse
Jewish district of Scheunen- able restaurants.
viertel (see pp102–3), devastated Wilhelm-Pieck-Strasse after
by the Nazis, decreased its East Germany’s first president,
popularity considerably. q Volksbühne and some old buildings were
For a long time, bars, small People’s Theatre replaced by prefabs.
factories, workshops and retail Although it is a busy, noisy
Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. Map 10 D1.
shops were the hallmark of the and sometimes polluted street,
Tel 24 06 55.  Rosa-Luxemburg-
neighbourhood around Alte Platz. @ 100, 200. v M8.
Torstrasse has its charms and is
Schönhauser Strasse. Small transforming from a largely
private shops survived longer Founded during the early working-class bohemian area
here than in most other parts years of the 20th century, this into a more appealing location,
of Berlin, and the largely original theatre owes its existence to particularly for young urbanites.
houses maintained much of the efforts of the 100,000 The 19th-century residential
their pre-1939 atmosphere. members of the Freie Volks- buildings lining the street have
Much has changed, however, bühne (Free People’s Theatre been gentrified to make way for
since the fall of the Berlin Society). The original theatre happening bars, trendy cafés
Wall. Some of the houses was built to a design by Oskar and gourmet restaurants, art
have been restored, and many Kaufmann in 1913, a time when galleries, and fashion shops with
old businesses have been the Scheunenviertel district numerous bargains to be found.
replaced by fashionable shops, was undergoing rapid “Soto”, the area south of Torstrasse
restaurants and bars, making it redevelopment. During the has the highest concentration
one of the most expensive retail 1920s the theatre became of independent designers and
areas in the city. Throughout the famous thanks to the director brand outfitters in the city.
district, the old and the new Erwin Piscator (1893–1966),
now stand side by side. One who later achieved great
acclaim at the Metropol- e Kollwitzplatz
Theater on Nollendorfplatz.  Senefelderplatz.
Destroyed during World War
II, the theatre was eventually This green square is named after
rebuilt during the early 1950s the German artist Käthe Kollwitz
to a design by Hans Richter. (1867–1945), who once lived
nearby. It was here that the
socially engaged painter and
w Torstrasse sculptor observed and painted
Torstrasse. Map 1 B8–9, 2 D5–E5. the daily hardships of the
 Oranienburger Tor, Rosenthaler working-class people living in
Platz, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz. @ 142. overcrowded tenements. One
v M1, M8. of her sculptures stands on the
square, the socializing hub of
Formerly a customs road and the district, with a Thursday
Berlin’s northern border around organic farmers’ market, cool
1800, Torstrasse is now a main bars, restaurants and shops that
thoroughfare connecting extend into the surrounding
Prenzlauer Allee and Friedrich- streets. Käthe Kollwitz’s work
One of the Neo-Renaissance buildings on strasse. From 1949 to 1990, can be seen at the Käthe-
Neue Schönhauser Strasse the street was given the name Kollwitz-Museum (see p158).
r Synagogue
Rykestrasse
Rykestrasse 53. Map 2 F4. Tel 88 02 81
47.  Senefelderplatz. Open for
services only; times vary.
This synagogue is one of the

few reminders of old Jewish life
in Berlin, and one of the few in
Germany left almost intact
during the Nazi terror regime.
Built in 1904, the red-brick syna-
gogue has a basilica-like nave
with three aisles and certain
Moorish features. Due to its
location inside a huge tenement Gravestones in the peaceful Jüdischer Friedhof
area, Nazi SA troops did not set
it on fire during the Kristallnacht y Jüdischer architect Franz Schwechten in
pogrom on 9 November 1938,
when hundreds of other synag-
Friedhof 1889–92. Now housing the
Kulturbrauerei, the huge
Jewish Cemetery
ogues were razed to the ground. complex with several courtyards
The synagogue welcomes Schönhauser Allee 22–25. Map 2 E4. has been revived as a cultural
visitors to its public services; Tel 441 98 24.  Senefelderplatz. and entertainment centre,
call ahead to check times. Open 8am–4pm Mon–Thu, with concert venues, restaurants
7:30am–2:30pm Fri. Closed Sat, Sun and cafés, and a cinema, as
& public hols. well as artists’ ateliers. Inside the
t Wasserturm Kulturbrauerei, the Museum
This small Jewish cemetery is Alltagsgeschichte der DDR
Knaackstrasse/Belforter Strasse.
hidden behind thick walls on (Museum of Everyday Life in the
Map 2 F4.  Senefelderplatz.
Schönhauser Allee, but the GDR) features exhibitions on
The unofficial symbol of the serene atmosphere, with tall the former East Germany.
district is a 30-m- (100-ft-) high trees and thick undergrowth, is a
water tower, standing high on welcome oasis. The cemetery
the former mill hill in the heart of was laid out in 1827, though the i Prater
Prenzlauer Berg. It was here that oldest gravestone dates back to Kastanienallee 7–9. Map 2 E3.
some of the windmills, once the 14th century. It was Berlin’s Tel 448 56 88.  Eberswalder Strasse.
typical in Prenzlauer Berg, prod- second-largest Jewish cemetery v 12, M1.
uced flour for the city’s popul- after the Jüdischer Friedhof
ation. The distinctive brick water Weissensee (see p173). Among Prater has been one of Berlin’s
tower was built in 1874 by the many prominent Berliners best-known entertainment
Wilhelm Vollhering and served as resting here are the painter Max institutions for more than a
a water reservoir for the country’s Liebermann (1847–1935); the century. The building, along
first running water system. In the composer and musical director with its quiet courtyard, was
1930s, the basement served as a of the Staatsoper Unter den constructed in the 1840s and
makeshift jail, where Nazi SA Linden; and the author David later became the city’s oldest
troops held and tortured Friedländer (1750–1834). The and largest beer garden (see
Communist opponents. This dark lapidarium displays historic p249). It now houses a restaurant,
period is marked by a plaque. gravestones from various serving Berlin specialities, and
Jewish cemeteries. stages a variety of pop, rock and
folk concerts, and theatre shows.
u Kulturbrauerei
Schönhauser Allee 36–39. Map 2 E3.
o Zionskirche
Tel 44 35 26 14. Museum Zionskirchplatz. Map 2 D4. Tel 449 21
Alltagsgeschichte der DDR: 91.  Senefelderplatz, Rosenthaler
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm Platz. v 12, M1. Open irregular
Thu).  Eberswalder Strasse. opening hours; call ahead.
v 12, M1, M10.
Located in the square named
This vast Neo-Gothic, industrial after it, Zionskirchplatz, this
red-and-yellow-brick building Protestant church was built
The giant Wasserturm looming was once Berlin’s most famous between 1866 and 1873 – a
high in Knaackstrasse brewery, Schultheiss, built by tranquil oasis in the middle of
this lively district. Both the square hall, the earlier building was
and the church have always been later used as a circus ring. In
centres of political opposition. 1918 it became the Grosse
During the Third Reich, resistance Schauspielhaus, or Grand
groups against the Nazi regime Playhouse, opening on
congregated at the church, and 28 November 1919 with a
when the Communists were in memorable production of
power in East Germany the Aeschylus’s The Oresteia,
alternative “environment directed by the extraordinary
library” (an information and Max Reinhardt (see p112).
documentation centre) was The building itself was
established here. Church and legendary, its central dome
other opposition groups active supported by a forest of
here played a decisive role in the columns and topped with
transformation of East Germany Expressionist, stalactite-like Bertolt Brecht’s monument in front of the
in 1989–90. decoration. An equally Berliner Ensemble
fantastical interior provided
seating for 5,000 spectators. was destroyed during World
p Friedrichstadt War II and subsequently restored
palast a Berliner with a much simpler exterior,
Friedrichstadt Palace but its Neo-Baroque interior,
Friedrichstrasse 107. Map 8 F2.
Ensemble including Ernst Westphal’s
Tel 23 26 23 26.  Oranienburger Tor. Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1. Map 8 F2. decorations, survived intact.
 Oranienburger Strasse or Tel 28 40 81 55.  &  Friedrich- After 1954 the theatre returned
Friedrichstrasse. @ 147. v 12, M1. strasse. @ 147. v 12, M1. to prominence with the arrival
of the Berliner Ensemble under
Multicoloured glass tiles and Designed by Heinrich Seeling in the directorship of Bertolt
a pink, plume-shaped neon the Neo-Baroque style and built Brecht and his wife, the actress
sign make up the gaudy but from 1891 to 1892, this theatre Helene Weigel. The move from
eye-catching façade of the has been witness to many its former home, the Deutsches
Friedrichstadtpalast. Built in changes in Berlin’s cultural life. Theater, to the new venue was
the early 1980s, this gigantic First known as the Neues celebrated in November 1954
theatre complex specializes Theater am Schiffbauerdamm, by staging the world premiere
in revues and variety shows. it soon became famous for of The Caucasian Chalk Circle,
Nearly 2,000 seats are arranged staging important premieres. written by Brecht in 1944/5.
around a huge podium, used In 1893 it put on the first After Brecht’s death his wife
by turns as a circus arena, a performance of The Weavers, by took over the running of the
swimming pool and an icerink. Gerhart Hauptmann. Later on, theatre, maintaining its
In addition, a further huge the theatre was acclaimed for innovative tradition.
stage is equipped with every its memorable productions by
technical facility. There is also a Max Reinhardt. These included
small cabaret theatre with seats Shakespeare’s A Midsummer s Sammlung Boros
for 240 spectators. Night’s Dream in 1905, which,
Reinhardtstrasse 20. Map 8 E2. Tel 27
The original and much-loved for the first time, used a 59 40 65.  &  Oranienburger Tor.
Friedrichstadtpalast suffered revolving stage and real trees @ 147. v M1, M12. 8 Thu–Sun;
bomb damage during World as part of the set. In 1928 the book in advance. ∑ sammlung
War II and was later condem- theatre presented the world boros.de
ned and replaced with the premiere of Bertolt Brecht’s The
existing version. Built as a market Threepenny Opera. The building This former air-raid bunker, built
by architect Albert Speer, is an
intriguing gallery location. The
bunker has a chequered
history; once used as a POW
prison by the Red Army, it later
became a warehouse, then in
the 1990s it was a popular club.
In 2003, art collector Christian
Boros bought the building and
converted it into a gallery space.
It houses the Boros Collection,
which features modern art. No
more than 12 guests can visit
at one time and advance online
The eye-catching façade of the Friedrichstadtpalast theatre complex registration is required.
g Dorotheenstädtischer Friedhof
This small cemetery, established in 1763, is the final . Johann Gottfried
resting place of many famous Berlin citizens. It was Schadow (1764–1850)
Schadow created the
enlarged between 1814 and 1826, but in 1899, famous Quadriga,
following the extension of Hannoversche Strasse, which adorns the
the southern section of the cemetery was sold Brandenburg Gate.
and its graves moved. Many of the monuments are
outstanding works of art, coming from the workshops
of some of the most prominent Berlin architects,
including Karl Friedrich Schinkel (see p181) and
Johann Gottfried Schadow. A tranquil, tree-filled
oasis, the cemetery is reached via a narrow path,
leading from the street between the wall of the
B
French Cemetery and the Brecht-Weigel- IR
Gedenkstätte house (see p112). K
E
N
A
L
L
E
E
Friedrich August Stüler (1800–1865)

Damaged during World War II, the grave
of this famous architect was rebuilt in a
colourful, post-modernist style.
Heinrich Mann
(1871–1950)
This famous German
novelist died in
California but was
buried in Berlin. The
portrait is the work of
B
Gustav Seitz. R
E
C
H
T
W
E
G
Hermann Wentzel (1820–1889)

This architect designed his own
tombstone; the bust was carved
Bertolt Brecht (1898–1956) by Fritz Schaper.
The grave of this famous playwright is
marked with a rough stone. Beside him
rests his wife, the actress Helene Weigel.
Main
entrance
KEY
1 Luther’s statue is a copy of the

monument designed by JG Schadow.
2 Chapel
Friedrich Hoffmann
(1818–1900)
The tomb of this
engineer, best known
Chausseestrasse 126.
as the inventor of the
Map 8 F1.
circular brick-firing kiln,
Tel 461 72 79.
takes the form of a
Open 8am–sunset daily.
colonnade faced with
glazed bricks. Transport
 Naturkundemuseum or
Oranienburger Tor.
@ 142, 245, 247.
v M6, M8, 12.
. Karl Friedrich Schinkel

(1781–1841)
Schinkel was the most prominent
German architect of his time, and
the creator of many of Berlin’s
best-loved buildings.
Johann Gottlieb
B Fichte (1762–1814)
IR
K A well-known
E philosopher of the
N
A Enlightenment era,
L
L Fichte was also the
E
E first Rector of Berlin
University.
Georg Wilhelm
Friedrich Hegel
(1770–1831)
Probably the greatest
German philosopher of
the Enlightenment era,
Hegel worked for many
years as a professor at
Berlin University.
0 metres 20
0 yards 20
Bertolt Brecht who, until g Dorotheenstädt-

1933, wrote plays for it; after ischer Friedhof
World War II he became the
director of the Berliner See pp110–11.
Ensemble, whose first venue
was the Deutsches Theater.
Brecht’s debut as director was
his play Mother Courage and
Her Children.
Elegant 19th-century façade of the f Charité

Deutsches Theater
Chariteplatz 1. Map 8 E1, E2. 
Oranienburger Tor. @ 147. v 12, M1.
d Deutsches Berliner Medizinhistoriches Museum
Theater der Charité: Tel 450 53 61 56.
Open 10am–5pm Tue, Thu, Fri &
Schumannstrasse 13A. Map 8 E2.
Sun; 10am–7pm Wed & Sat.
Tel 28 44 10. Kammerspiele 
Oranienburger Tor. @ 147. v 12, M1. This huge building complex The office of German author and dramatist
near Luisenstrasse contains the Bertolt Brecht
This theatre building was Charité hospital, which is one of
designed by Eduard Titz and the largest university hospitals h Brecht-Weigel-
built between 1849 and 1850
to house the Friedrich-Wilhelm
in Europe. It is also Germany’s
oldest teaching hospital, first
Gedenkstätte
Brecht-Weigel Memorial
Städtisches Theater. In 1883, established in 1726, and has
following substantial recon- been attached to the Humboldt Chausseestrasse 125. Tel 200 57 18 44.
struction, it was renamed University (see p62) since its Map 1 A5, 8 E1.  Naturkunde-
Deutsches Theater and opened foundation in 1810. The oldest museum or Oranienburger Tor.
with Friedrich Schiller’s Intrigue buildings of the current @ 147, 245. v M6, 12.
Open 10–11:30am & 2–3:30pm Tue,
and Love. The theatre became complex date back to the
10–11:30am Wed & Fri, 10–11:30am &
famous under its next director, 1830s. Over the years, Charité
5–6:30pm Thu, 10am–3:30pm Sat,
Otto Brahm, and it was here that has been associated with many
11am–6pm Sun. 8 compulsory.
Max Reinhardt began his career famous German doctors and Every half hour (every hour on Sun).
as an actor, before eventually scientists who worked here, Closed Mon & public hols. &
becoming director from 1905 including Rudolf Virchow and
until 1933. On Reinhardt’s Robert Koch. Bertolt Brecht, one of the
initiative the theatre’s façade was In 1899 Virchow founded greatest playwrights of the
altered and in 1906 the adjacent the Museum der Charité, next 20th century, was associated
casino was converted into a to the Institute of Pathology. with Berlin from 1920, but
compact theatre – the Kammer- Its collection consists of some emigrated in 1933. After the war,
spiele. At the time, the first-floor 23,000 specimens, which are his left-wing views made him an
auditorium was decorated with available for public viewing. attractive potential resident of
a frieze by Edvard Munch (now Although many artifacts were the newly created German
in the Neue Nationalgalerie). destroyed in World War II, the socialist state. Lured by the
Another famous figure museum itself has survived promise of his own theatre
associated with the theatre was and reopened in 1999. he returned to Berlin in 1948,
with his wife, the actress Helene
Weigel. He directed the Berliner
Max Reinhardt (1873–1943) Ensemble until his death,
This actor and director became famous as one of the 20th century’s concentrating mainly on the
greatest theatre reformers. He worked in Berlin, first as production of his own plays.
an actor in the Deutsches Theater, and then from He lived in a first-floor
1905 as its director. As well as setting up the apartment at Chaussee-
Kammerspiele, he produced plays for the Neues strasse 125 from 1953 until his
Theater am Schiffbauerdamm (renamed the death in 1956. He is buried in
Berliner Ensemble) and the Schumann Circus Dorotheenstädtischer Friedhof
(later to become the Friedrichstadtpalast), (see pp110–11). His wife lived
which was converted specially for him by Hans
in the second-floor apartment,
Poelzig. His experimental productions of classic
and after Brecht’s death moved
and modern works brought him worldwide
fame. Forced to emigrate because of his Jewish to the ground floor. She also
origins, he left Germany in 1933 and settled in founded an archive of Brecht’s
the United States, where he died in 1943. works which is located on the
second floor of the building.
is now an official place of Occupying a purposebuilt

remembrance. The location of NeoRenaissance building,
the memorial is poignant, as constructed between 1883 and
the Wall was cut in two here at 1889, the museum has been
Bernauer Strasse. This resulted operating for over a century,
in people jumping to the West and despite several periods of
side from upperfloor buildings renovation has maintained its
that stood right on the dividing oldfashioned atmosphere.
line, while border guards were The highlights of the museum
bricking up doors and windows are Europe’s bestpreserved
facing west. Today, the memorial Tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton and
is a grim reminder of the hard the world’s largest original
ship the division inflicted on the dinosaur skeleton, which is
city. It includes a museum and housed in the glasscovered
Remains of the Berlin Wall on various installations along a mile courtyard. The colossal 23m
Bernauer Strasse of the former border. The (75ft) long and 12m (39ft)
Chapel of Reconciliation high Brachiosaurus was
j Gedenkstätte replaces the original church, discovered in Tanzania in 1909
Berliner Mauer which was demolished in 1985. by a German fossilhunting
During the Wall’s 28year expedition. Six other smaller
Berlin Wall Memorial
existence, about 5,000 people reconstructed dinosaur
Bernauer Strasse 119. Map 1 B4. managed to escape into West skeletons and a replica of
 Nordbahnhof.  Bernauer Berlin; a total of 192 people the fossilized remains of an
Strasse. v M8, M10. @ 245, 247. Wall were killed by the Eastern Archaeopteryx, thought to be
Documentation Center: Tel 467 98 66 border guards while attempting the prehistoric link between
66. Open Apr–Oct: 9:30am–7pm Tue– to do so. reptiles and birds, complete
Sun; Nov–Mar: 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sun.
this fascinating display.
8 call ahead.
The adjacent rooms feature
k Museum countless colourful shells and
On the night between 12 and für Naturkunde butterflies, as well as taxidermy,
13 August 1961 the East German Natural History Museum including birds and mammals.
authorities decided to close the Particularly popular are the
Invalidenstrasse 43. Map 8 E1.
border around the western Tel 20 93 85 91.  Naturkunde
dioramas – scenes of mounted
sectors of Berlin. Initially the museum. @ 147, 245. Open 9:30am– animals set against the back
Berlin Wall (die Mauer) consisted 6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat, Sun & ground of their natural habitat.
simply of rolls of barbed wire. public hols. & A favourite is Bobby the Gorilla,
However, these were soon who was brought to Berlin Zoo
replaced by a 4m (13ft) wall One of the biggest natural in 1928 as a 2yearold and lived
safeguarded by a second wall history museums in the world, there until 1935. There is also
made from reinforced concrete. the collection here contains an impressive collection of
This second wall was topped over 30 million exhibits. minerals and meteorites.
with a thick pipe to prevent
people from reaching the top
of the Wall with their fingers.
Along the Wall ran what was
known as a “death zone”, an area
controlled by guards with dogs.
Where the border passed close
to houses, the inhabitants were
relocated. Along the border
with West Berlin there were
293 watchtowers, along with
57 bunkers and, later on, alarms.
On 9 November 1989, with
the help of Soviet leader Mikhail
Gorbachev, the Berlin Wall was
finally breached. Dismantling it
took much longer, however,
with more than a million tons
of rubble to be removed.
Only small fragments of the
Wall have survived. One of
these, along Bernauer Strasse
between Acker and Bergstrasse, Brachiosaurus skeleton in the Museum für Naturkunde
l Hamburger Bahnhof
This art museum is situated in a specially adapted
Neo-Classical building that was built in 1847 as a
railway station. Following extensive refurbishment
by Josef Paul Kleihues, it was opened to the public
in 1996. At night, the façade is lit up by a neon
installation by Dan Flavin. The museum has an ever-
changing rotation of artworks, including pieces
by Joseph Beuys and a selection from the world-
renowned Friedrich Christian Flick Collection of Art
from the second half of the 20th century, as well
Restaurant
as from the Marx and Marzona collections. Film, This stylish restaurant, run by
video, music and design sit alongside painting and chef Sarah Wiener, provides
sculpture. The result is one of the best modern and a welcome respite
contemporary art museums in Europe. for visitors.
Museum Façade
The museum’s impressive Neo-Classical
façade is flanked by two towers and
has a grand entrance hall and
inner courtyard.
Main
entrance
First Time Painting (1961)

This work by American artist Robert
Rauschenberg was created while he . Richtkräfte (1974–7)
worked with John Cage at Black Joseph Beuys’ work – often a record of his thoughts –
Mountain College. created an archive of the artist’s vision.
Invalidenstrasse 50/51.
Map 8 D1.
Tel 39 78 34 11.
∑ hamburgerbahnhof.de
Volk
8pm Thu). Closed 24 & 31 Dec.
Ding Zero
7md^&
(2009)
This 3-m (9-ft) high Transport
bronze sculpture by  &  Hauptbahnhof.
Georg Baselitz was inspired @ 120, 123, 147, 240, 245, TXL,
by African, German and M41, M85.
Polish folk art.
Key
Ground floor . Mao (1972)
Rieckhallen This well-known portrait by
Andy Warhol initially elevated the
First floor
Chinese communist leader to
Second floor the rank of pop icon.
Gallery Guide
The gallery has more than
10,000 sq m (108,000 sq ft) of
exhibition space. All the works
on display at the Hamburger
Bahnhof are temporary and
exhibits described here may
not necessarily be on display.
Main Hall The Rieckhallen shows
The main hall is used for unusual installations and even selected works from the
fashion shows. Here, models are showcasing the collections Friedrich Christian Flick
at the 2010 BOSS Black Fashion Show. Collection in rotation.
TIERGARTEN
Once a royal hunting estate, the Tiergarten with the creation of the Kulturforum and the
became a park in the 18th century. In the Hansaviertel. The area around Potsdamer Platz
19th century a series of buildings, mostly fell in East Berlin and became a wasteland.
department stores and banks, was erected at Since reunification, however, this area has
Potsdamer Platz. During World War II many of witnessed exciting development. Together
these buildings were destroyed. The division with the government offices near the
of Berlin changed the character of the area. Reichstag, this ensures that the Tiergarten
The Tiergarten area ended up on the west area is at the centre of Berlin’s political and
side of the Wall, and later regained its glory financial district.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries o Hansaviertel Restaurants
2 Musikinstrumenten-Museum s Regierungsviertel see pp235–6
4 Kunstgewerbemuseum pp122–5 Historic Buildings 1 Angkor Wat
5 Kupferstichkabinett 2 Cafe am Neuen See
1 Staatsbibliothek
6 Kunstbibliothek 3 Facil
3 Philharmonie und
8 Gemäldegalerie pp126–9 Kammermusiksaal 4 Gaststatte Ambrosius
9 Neue Nationalgalerie 5 Kafers Dachgarten
7 St-Matthäus-Kirche
w Bendlerblock (Gedenkstätte 6 Lanninger
q Shell-Haus
Deutscher Widerstand) 7 Lindenbrau
e Villa von der Heydt
r Bauhaus-Archiv 8 Lutter & Wegner in Kaisersaal
p Schloss Bellevue
9 OM
Districts, Squares and Parks a Haus der Kulturen der Welt
10 Rikes Gasthaus
0 Potsdamer Platz pp132–5 d Reichstag
11 Ristorante Essenza
t Diplomatenviertel Monuments 12 Teehaus Tiergarten
y Tiergarten i Siegessäule
u Grosser Stern f Sowjetisches Ehrenmal
Kanzler
Brücke
400m 300m Bundestag
Sp
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IN-ST R
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TN PLATZ DER
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See also Street Finder maps 6, 7, 8, 13 & 14

The piazza of the Sony Centre, Potsdamer Platz For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Around the Kulturforum

The idea of creating a new cultural centre in West 4 . Kunstgewerbe-
Berlin was first mooted in 1956. The first building museum
to go up was the Berlin Philharmonic concert hall, Among the
collection at the
built to an innovative design by Hans Scharoun Museum of Arts and
in 1961. Most of the plans for the various other Crafts you can see
components of the Kulturforum were realized this intricately carved
between 1961 and 1987, and came from such silver and ivory
tankard, made in an
famous architects as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. Augsburg workshop in
The area is now a major cultural centre which around 1640.
attracts millions of visitors every year.
5 Kupferstichkabinett
The large collection of prints
and drawings owned by this
gallery includes this portrait of
Albrecht Dürer’s mother.
6 Kunstbibliothek
The Art Library boasts
a rich collection of
books, graphic art and
drawings, many of
which are displayed in
its exhibition halls.
8 . Gemäldegalerie
Among the most
important works of
the Old Masters
exhibited in this
gallery of fine art is
this Madonna in
Church by Jan van
Eyck (c. 1425).
R
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9 Neue Nationalgalerie
Sculptures by Henry Moore and
0 metres 50
Alexander Calder stand outside this
Key streamlined building, designed by
0 yards 50 Ludwig Mies van der Rohe.
Suggested route
TIERGARTEN  119
3 . Philharmonie NORTH OF THE

Its outside covered in CENTRE
a layer of golden
aluminium, the Berlin
Philharmonic concert TIERGARTEN
hall is known all over
the world for its
superb acoustics. AROUND KUR
FÜRSTENDAMM KREUZBERG
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 6, 7 & 8
E
S
S
SCH 2 Musikinstrumenten-Museum
A
ARO
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UN This harpsichord is part of a collection

T
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S
ÄSS of musical instruments dating from the

E
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16th to the 20th centuries.

E
M
MAT THÄI–
A
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KIRCH PL ATZ
S
7 St-Matthäus-Kirche
T
O
This picturesque 19th-century

P
church stands out among the

modern buildings of the
Kulturforum.
SIGI
SMU
NDST
RASS
E
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ASS
STR
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SDA
POT
1 Staatsbibliothek
Hans Scharoun designed this
public lending and research
library built in 1978.
from the 16th century to

the present day. You can
marvel at the harpsichord of
Jean Marius, once owned by
Frederick the Great, and the
violins made by Amati
and Stradivarius.
Most spectacular of all is
the silent-film-era cinema
organ, a working Wurlitzer
dating from 1929. With a range
of sounds that extends even to
locomotive impressions, the
The main reading room in the Staatsbibliothek Saturday demonstrations of its
powers attract enthusiastic
1 Staatsbibliothek of footsteps is muffled by fitted crowds. However, during the
State Library carpets, making the interior a the week the sounds of
very quiet and cosy place in exhibited instruments can be
Potsdamer Strasse 33. Map 8 D5.
which to work. heard on tapes. The museum
Tel 266 0.  &  Potsdamer Platz.
The library itself houses also has an excellent archive
@ 200, M29, M48, M85. Open
9am–9pm Mon–Fri, 9am–7pm Sat.
more than four million books, and library open to the public.
and an excellent collection of
An unusually shaped building manuscripts. The Staatsbiblio- 3 Philharmonie
with an east-facing gilded thek has been formally linked
dome, the Staatsbibliothek is to the Staatsbibliothek on und Kammer
home to one of the largest Unter den Linden (see p63). musiksaal
collections of books and manu- Philharmonic and Chamber
scripts in Europe and is fondly Music Hall
referred to by Berliners as the 2 Musikinstrumen
Stabi. After World War II, East tenMuseum Herbert-von-Karajan-Strasse 1.
Map 8 D5. Tel 25 48 88 00.  & 
and West Berlin each inherited Museum of Musical Instruments Potsdamer Platz or  Mendelssohn-
part of the pre-war state library Bartholdy-Park. @ 200, M48, M85.
Tiergartenstrasse 1. Map 8 D5.
collection and the Staatsbiblio- Tel 25 48 10.  &  Potsdamer Platz.
thek was built to house the @ 200, M48, M85. Open 9am–5pm Home to one of the most
part belonging to West Berlin. Tue–Fri (to 10pm Thu), 10am–5pm Sat renowned orchestras in Europe,
The building itself was & Sun. Wurlitzer Organ demonstration: this unusual building is among
designed by Hans Scharoun noon Sat. & 7 m d the finest postwar architectural
and Edgar Wisniewski and achievements in Europe. The
constructed between 1967 Hidden behind the Philharmonie, Philharmonie, built between
and 1978. in a small building designed by 1960 and 1963 to a design by
It is a building where the Edgar Wisniewski and Hans Hans Scharoun, pioneered a
disciplines of function and Scharoun between 1979 and new concept for concert hall
efficiency take precedence 1984, the fascinating Museum interiors. The orchestra’s podium
over that of form. The store of Musical Instruments houses occupies the central section of
rooms hold about five million over 750 exhibits in a collection the pentagonal-shaped hall,
volumes; the hall of the vast dating from 1888. Intriguing around which are galleries for
reading room is open-plan, displays enable you to trace the public, designed to blend
with an irregular arrangement each instrument’s development into the perspective of the five
of partitions and floor levels; corners. The exterior reflects
general noise and the sound the interior and is
The tent-like gilded exterior of the Philharmonie and Kammermusiksaal

TIERGARTEN І 121
reminiscent of a circus tent. plans and drawings by

The gilded exterior was added architects such as Johann
between 1978 and 1981. Balthasar Neumann, Erich
The Berlin orchestra was Mendelsohn and Paul Wallot.
founded in 1882, and has been The exhibitions can be seen in
directed by such luminaries as the reading and studio rooms,
Hans von Bülow, Wilhelm and parts of the collection are
Furtwängler, the controversial also in the library’s own galleries.
Herbert von Karajan, who led
the orchestra from 1954 until
his death in 1989, and Claudio 7 StMatthäus
Abbado. The current director is Kirche
Sir Simon Rattle. The orchestra St Matthew’s Church
attained renown not only for
Matthäikirchplatz. Map 7 C5. Tel 262
the quality of its concerts but
12 02.  &  Potsdamer Platz or
also through its prolific  MendelssohnBartholdyPark.
symphony recordings. Edvard Munch’s Girl on a Beach, @ 148, 200, M41, M48, M85. Open
Between the years 1984 to a coloured lithograph 11am–6pm Tue–Sun, and for services.
1987 the Kammermusiksaal,
which was designed by Edgar briefly exposed to daylight; St Matthew’s Church once
Wisniewski on the basis of therefore the museum does stood in the centre of a small
sketches by Scharoun, was not have a permanent exhib square surrounded by buildings.
added to the Philharmonie. ition, only galleries with temp After bomb damage in World
This building consolidates orary displays of selected works. War II, the structure was restored,
the aesthetics of the earlier For those with a special interest, making it the focal point of the
structure by featuring a central items in storage can be viewed Kulturforum. The church was
multisided space covered by in the studio gallery by prior originally built between 1844
a fanciful tentlike roof. arrangement. and 1846 to a design by Friedrich
The collection includes work August Stüler and Hermann
from every renowned artist Wentzel, in a style based on
4 Kunstgewerbe from the Middle Ages to Italian Romanesque temples.
museum contemporary times. Well Each of the three naves is
Museum of Arts and Crafts represented is the work of covered by a separate two
Botticelli (including illustrations tier roof, while the eastern
See pp122–5.
for Dante’s Divine Comedy), end of the church is closed
Dürer, Rembrandt and the by a semicircular apse.
Dutch Masters, Watteau, Goya, The exterior of the church is
5 Kupferstich Daumier and painters of the covered in a twotone brick
kabinett Die Brücke art movement. façade arranged in yellow
Print Gallery and red lines. Ironically, this
picturesque church with its
Matthäikirchplatz 8. Map 7 C5. Tel 266
42 42 42.  &  Potsdamer Platz or
6 Kunstbibliothek slender tower now creates quite
 MendelssohnBartholdyPark. @ Art Library an exotic element among the
200, M29, M41, M48, M85. Exhibitions: many ultramodern and
Matthäikirchplatz 6. Map 7 C5.
10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat & sometimes extravagant buildings
Tel 266 42 41 41.  &  Potsdamer
Sun. & 7 d = 0 ^ Platz or  MendelssohnBartoldy
of the Kulturforum complex.
Park. @ 200, M29, M41, M48, M85.
The print collections of galleries Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm
in the former East and West Sat & Sun. &
Berlin were united in 1994 in
this building located in the The Kunstbibliothek is not only
Kulturforum. These displays a library with a vast range of
originate from a collection books and periodicals about
started by the Great Elector in the arts, making it a tremendous
1652, which has been open to resource for researchers; it is
the public since 1831. Despite also a museum with a huge
wartime losses it has an collection of posters, advert
imposing breadth and can isements and an array of other
boast around 2,000 engraver’s forms of design. Worth seeing
plates, over 520,000 prints, and is a display on the history of
around 110,000 drawings and fashion, as well as a vast
watercolours. Unfortunately, collection of items of archi
only a small fraction of these tectural interest. The latter The colourful exterior of the
delicate treasures can be even includes around 30,000 original St-Matthäus-Kirche
4 Kunstgewerbemuseum
The Museum of Decorative Arts embraces many
genres of craft and decorative art, from the early
Middle Ages to the modern day. Goldwork is
especially well represented. Among the most
valuable exhibits is a collection of medieval
goldwork from the church treasuries of Enger
near Herford, and the Guelph treasury from
Brunswick. The museum also takes great pride
in its collection of late Gothic and Renaissance
silver from the town of Lüneberg’s civic treasury. . Domed Reliquary (1175–80)
There are fine examples of Italian majolica, and From the Guelph treasury in Brunswick,
the figures in this temple-shaped
18th- and 19th-century German, French and Italian reliquary are made from walrus ivory.
glass, porcelain and furniture. Exhibits also include
fashion, Jugendstil and Art Deco glassware and
furniture, and Bauhaus and contemporary design.
Main entrance
Minneteppich (c.1430)
The theme of this famous tapestry
is courtly love. Amorous couples,
accompanied by mythical
creatures, converse on topics such
as infidelity, their words extending
along the banners they hold.
. Goblet (c.1480)
This glass goblet was made in
Venice and is decorated with scenes
from the lives of Adam and Eve.
Lüneburg Lion (1540)

From the civic treasury in Lüneburg,
this gold-plated silver jug in the
form of a lion was crafted in the Basement
workshop of Joachim Worm.
KUNSTGEWERBEMUSEUM  123
Matthäikirchplatz.
Map 7 C5.
Tel 266 42 42 42.
∑ smb.museum/kgm
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri,
11am–6pm Sat & Sun.
&7d^m
Transport
 Potsdamer Platz.
 Potsdamer Platz or
Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-Park.
@ 200, M29, M48.
Second Candelabrum (1900)

floor This striking Art Nouveau
candelabrum made from
silver, ivory and onyx
is the work of Belgian
artists Egide Rombaux
and Frans Hoosemans.
Wedding Dress (c.1780)

Made from brocade, with a lace
collar and cuffs, this Rococo
wedding dress is thought to have
First floor belonged to Eleonor Schuster
from Breslau (now Wrocław).
Ground floor
. Harlequin Group (c.1740)

These highly decorative, comic
porcelain characters from
Meissen are just one of the
treasures from the cabinets of
curiosities and Baroque collections
found on the second floor.
Key
Middle Ages Gallery Guide
Renaissance The entrance to the museum is on the first floor, where
Baroque there is also a gallery on fashion from the 18th to the
Neo-Classical, Art Nouveau, Art Deco 20th centuries. In the basement is an exhibition of
contemporary design, on the ground floor are exhibits
Fashion
from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, and on the
Contemporary Design second floor are handicrafts from the Renaissance
Temporary exhibitions through to Art Nouveau.
Exploring the Kunstgewerbemuseum northern Germany, acquired

by the museum in 1874. Made
Opened in 1868, the Museum of Decorative Arts was the from gold-plated silver, the
first of its kind in Germany. It was housed initially in the set is the work of the skilled
Martin-Gropius-Bau (see p144), then from 1921 to 1939 it metalworkers of the town; some
occupied the Stadtschloss (see p76). In 1940 it was moved vessels take the form of lions.
Also notable are the works of
to Schloss Charlottenburg (see pp164–5). The current
the Nürnberg master craftsmen,
building, completed in 1985, underwent major renovations above all the renowned Wenzel
for several years and reopened in November 2014 with an Jamnitzer and his nephew
extensive fashion gallery and expanded fashion, Jugendstil Christoph Jamnitzer.
and Art Deco displays. As a result of the 16th-
century fashion for Kunst
kammern, or curiosity cabinets,
the collection also includes rare
Middle Ages Renaissance examples of naturalistic and
A large part of this collection is The arts and crafts of the exotic creations from other
devoted to sacred art, much Renaissance period are well cultures, as well as some
of it originating from church represented here. Especially unusual technical equipment.
treasuries. A fine 8th-century valuable is a collection of ItalianLook out for the pieces from
reliquary in the shape of a burse majolica, a type of pottery the Pommersche Kunstschrank
(the container used in the glazed in bright metallic (curio cabinet) made for a
Roman Catholic mass to oxides, imported into 16th-century Pomeranian
hold the white linen cloth Tuscany from Majorca in the prince, Phillip II, as well as a
on which the bread 15th century. Majolica display of 17th-century clocks
and the wine are workshops flourished and scientific instruments.
placed) comes from during the 16th
the treasury of a century, and many,
church in Enger in including those of Baroque
Westphalia. More reliquaries, Faenza, Cafaggiolo and Treasures from the Baroque
many in the form of crosses, Urbino, are on show here. period include an exquisite
date from the 11th and Other interesting exhibits collection of German and
12th centuries. Two of the in this section are 15th- and Bohemian glass. A few of the
most interesting are the 16th-century Venetian glass, pieces are made from so-called
Heinrichskreuz, a gift to porcelain decorated with “ruby glass”, a technique that
the cathedral in Basel enamelwork from was pioneered by Johann
from the Roman Limoges in central Kunckel in the second half
Emperor Heinrich II, France, and fine of the 17th century.
and the Welfenkreuz, collections of furniture A varied and rich collection of
which comes from and tapestry. 18th-century ceramics includes
the Guelph treasury The highlight of some German faïence work, with
in Brunswick. Also 11th-century the collection is a set amusingly decorated jugs and
from the latter comes reliquary cross of 32 magnificent, tankards. The porcelain display
a beautiful domed richly decorated begins with a series of Böttger
reliquary taking the form of a goblets, bowls and jugs from ceramics, the result of some of
small temple, and a portable the civic treasury at Lüneburg in the very first European
altarpiece decorated with
enamelwork, produced around
1150 by the craftsman Eilbertus
of Cologne.
Exhibits from the Gothic
period (12th to 16th centuries)
include the stunning reliquary
of St George of Elbing, made
around 1480. Also fascinating
are examples of secular art from
this period, including caskets,
vessels, a mirror, a knight’s
amulet and the renowned
Minneteppich. This tapestry
depicts a number of love scenes,
and is designed to hang on the
wall above a seat as a decorative
means of keeping out draughts. Sixteenth-century tapestry entitled The Triumph of Love
KUNSTGEWERBEMUSEUM  125
various World Fairs that

occurred at this time. Of
note are the frosted glass
vases by French artist Emile
Gallé, and pieces by the
American Louis Comfort
Tiffany, creator of the Favrile
style of iridescent stained
glass. Also displayed are
pieces by the legendary
René Lalique, including
jewellery and glassware.
The years between the
two World Wars saw many
artists developing a com-
pletely new perspective on
both form and decoration.
The period is well
represented in this part of
the museum through an
Desk-board (c.1610–17) from the Pommersche Kunstschrank impressive range of Art
Deco items, such as a small
experiments in porcelain half of the 19th century and is porcelain tea service by Gertrud
production, undertaken by well represented here. A high Kant, and a silver coffee set
Johann Friedrich Böttger with standard of craftsmanship is decorated with inlaid ebony,
the assistance of Ehrenfried seen in the sophisticated designed by Jean Puiforcat.
Walther von Tschirnhaus. Viennese glass and jewellery. Also on display are a wide range
Among some of the finest The collection also includes of ceramics and a variety of
works from a variety of European furniture made from papier- items in daily use.
factories, the porcelain from the mâché. This interesting
Meissen factory is particularly well technique was first applied to
represented, with several pieces furniture in England around Fashion
by one of the most famous 1850 and involves a wooden The fashion gallery of the
Meissen modellers and designers, or wire frame which is covered museum houses a rich
Johann Joachim Kändler. in layers of paste and paper. collection of items from the
Also on show is a fascinating Decorative techniques include 18th to the 20th centuries.
selection of artifacts from the painting and inlaying with It boasts around 130 outfits
Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur mother-of-pearl. and accessories displayed in
(Royal Porcelain Factory) in Berlin The Secessionist and large showcases, including
(see p137), which is well known Art Nouveau movements cocktail dresses, ball gowns
for its porcelain pieces depicting of the 1890s and 1900s are and hats. Among the highlights
views of the city. represented by various artists, are the creations of famous
The collection of porcelain is including Henri van der Velde couturiers, including a two-
complemented by a display and Eugène Gaillard. Many piece embroidered jacket dress
of silver dishes produced in pieces were acquired at the from the late 1930s by revered
European workshops at the Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli,
same period, and some and a velvet toque by Christian
decorative tableware. Dior from 1955.
Neo-Classical Revival, Art Contemporary Design

Nouveau and Art Deco The basement of the museum
A comprehensive collection is devoted to exploring
of late 18th- and early 19th- contemporary and post-modern
century Neo-Classical artifacts industrial design from the 19th
includes porcelain from some century to the present day. It
of the most famous European showcases an array of colourful
and Russian factories, French and beautifully designed
and German silver, and everyday objects. Especially
comprehensive exhibitions impressive is an eye-catching
of glassware and furniture. typewriter designed by Ettore
The Revival movement in Sottsass in 1967, and the ultra-
central European art and crafts Baroque clock by Johann modern coffee-maker made by
took place during the second Gottlieb Graupner (1739) Richard Sapper in 1979.
8 Gemäldegalerie
The Gemäldegalerie collection is exceptional in
the consistently high quality of its paintings. Unlike
those in many other collections, they were chosen by
specialists who, from the beginning of the 19th century,
systematically acquired pictures to ensure that all the
major European schools of painting were represented.
Originally part of the Altes Museum collection (see p77),
the paintings achieved independent status in 1904 when
they were moved to what is now the Bode-Museum
(see p81). After the division of Berlin in 1945, part of the
collection was kept in the Bode-Museum, while the . Cupid Victorious (1602)
22
majority ended up in the Dahlem Museums (see p185). Inspired by Virgil’s Omnia vincit
Amor, Caravaggio depicted a
Following reunification, with the building of a new playful god, trampling over
23
home as part of the Kulturforum development, this the symbols of Culture,
unique set of paintings was united again. Fame, Knowledge
24
XI
and Power.
I
25
XII
27
I
26
Madonna with Child (c.1477)
28
XI
A frequent subject of
V
Sandro Botticelli, the
Madonna and Child 29
XV
30
depicted here are

31
surrounded by singing
XV
angels holding lilies,

32
symbolizing purity.
33
XV
34
II
35
36
37
IV
III
38
XV
3
39
II
III
Circular lobby
2
40
leading to the
1
41
galleries
I
Birth of Christ (c.1480)

This beautiful religious
painting is one of the
few surviving paintings
on panels by Martin
Schongauer.
Portrait of Hieronymus
Holzschuher (1529)
Albrecht Dürer painted this
affectionate portrait of his
friend, who was the Main
mayor of Nürnberg. entrance
GEMÄLDEGALERIE  127
The Glass of Wine

(c.1658–61)
Jan Vermeer’s carefully
composed picture of a
Matthäikirchplatz 4–6.
young woman drinking
Map 7 C5.
wine with a young man
Tel 266 42 42 42.
gently hints at the
relationship developing
8pm Thu).
between them.
Closed 24 & 31 Dec. & d m
7^=
Transport
 &  Potsdamer Platz.
20
 Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-Park.
@ 200, M29, M41, M48, M85.
21
18
17
XI
16
Love in the
French Theatre
19
15
This picture has a

X
companion piece
14
called Love in the

13
Italian Theatre (see

10
IX
p25). Both are the

12
work of French
painter Jean-
VI
11
II
Antoine Watteau.
VI
9
I
8
VI
Key
6
V
13th–16th-century German
painting
5
14th–16th-century Dutch and

French painting
4
17th-century Flemish and Dutch

painting
3
18th-century French, English and

German painting
17th–18th-century Italian painting,
17th-century German, French and
Spanish painting
13th–16th-century Italian painting
. Portrait of Hendrickje
16th–18th-century miniatures Stoffels (1656–7)
Digital gallery This portrait of Rembrandt’s
Non-exhibition space
lover, Hendrickje Stoffels, is
typical in that the painter
focuses on the subject and
ignores the background.
Gallery Guide
The main gallery contains
about 1,000 masterpieces
grouped according to their
country of origin and period.
The educational gallery on
the lower floor houses about
. Dutch Proverbs (1559) 400 13th–18th-century
Pieter Bruegel managed to illustrate more European paintings and
than 100 proverbs in this painting. another digital gallery.
Visiting the Gemäldegalerie

The Gemäldegalerie’s Modern building was designed
by Heinz Hilmer and Christoph Sattler and its exhibition
space offers a superb environment in which to view the
paintings. The pictures are gently lit by the diffused daylight
that streams in from above, while the walls are covered
in light-absorbing fabric. The vast hall that occupies the
centre of the building allows the visitor to take a break from
sightseeing at any time. The hall, with a futuristic sculpture
by Walter de Maria set in a water-filled pool, provides an ideal Frans Hals’ portrait, Malle Babbe or Crazy
setting for a few moments of quiet contemplation and rest. Babette (c.1629–30)
paintings is maintained with

Hans Baldung Grien and the works of Petrus Christus and
Albrecht Altdorfer. Among the Rogier van der Weyden. Among
many works by Lucas Cranach the pictures by Hugo van der
the Elder is the delightful Goes, the most prized is The
Fountain of Youth, from which Adoration of the Magi, once
old women emerge young and the centre panel of a triptych.
beautiful, while men regain their The collection has four
youth through amorous liaisons paintings by Hans Memling,
with the women. Another and also the small Madonna
excellent painting in this with Child painted by one of
collection is a portrait of the his pupils, Michel Sittow. There
Danzig merchant Georg Gisze, is a large group of paintings by
Hans Holbein’s Portrait of Georg painted by Hans Holbein the Gerard David, Jan Gossaert and
Gisze (1532) Younger at a time when both Joos van Cleve. Try to keep an
men were living in London. eye out for a modest picture by
17th- and 18th-century Hieronymus Bosch called St John
German Painting paintings, including the works on Patmos. One of the most
German paintings are exhibited of Adam Elsheimer and Johann outstanding paintings of the
in several areas of the gallery. Heinrich Tischbein, are on collection is Pieter Bruegel the
The first group comprises art show elsewhere. Elder’s Dutch Proverbs. However,
from the 13th–16th centuries. in order to fully appreciate the
A fine body of religious paintings mastery and humour in this
and altarpieces contains a Dutch and Flemish work, make sure you use the
historic 13th-century rectangular Painting accompanying board which
altarpiece from Westphalia. The gallery with Dutch and explains all the one hundred
Other notable religious artifacts Flemish paintings begins with or so proverbs illustrated here.
include the side panels of the the captivating canvases of Within the large collection
15th-century Wurzach Altar, Jan van Eyck. In addition to his of excellent Flemish paintings
ascribed to Hans Multscher, precise portraits, you can see you can marvel at the Baroque
which vividly depict the torment here the celebrated Madonna vitality and texture evident in
of Christ and the life of the Virgin in a Church. The high quality of the canvases of friends and
Mary. A real rarity is the Nativity
by Martin Schongauer. Often
thought of primarily as an
engraver, he was one of the
most significant painters of
the late 15th century but few
of his paintings have survived.
Another artist known for his
engravings as well as paintings,
Albrecht Dürer was a major
figure in Renaissance art in
northern Europe. His works
displayed here include Madonna
with the Siskin, painted in 1506
while he was visiting Italy, and
two later portraits of Nürnberg
patriarchs. There are also exhibits
by Hans Süss von Kulmbach, Salomon van Ruysdael’s Dutch Landscape with a Raid (1656)
GEMÄLDEGALERIE  129
sometime collaborators Peter

Paul Rubens, Jacob Jordaens,
Jan Brueghel the Elder and
Frans Snyders. The exceptional
portraits of Anton van Dyck,
who painted complex, psych-
ologically revealing studies, are
indicative of the artist at the
height of his powers.
The gallery of 17th-century
Dutch paintings probably holds
the richest collection in the
museum. Included among Titian’s Venus with the Organ Player (1550–52)
these are portraits by Frans
Hals that perfectly illustrate 15th century, and the Madonna
his enormous artistic talents. with Child, dating from c.1410, Italian Painting
Excellent examples of his varied is one of the oldest preserved The collection of Italian paint-
work are the vigorous Malle works of art painted on a ings is fairly comprehensive.
Babbe (c.1629–30) – a portrait canvas. One of the most There are exemplary works by
of the “crazy Babette” of Haarlem. valuable French works is by 14th-century masters, including
In fact, all the most famous Jean Fouquet, entitled Étienne Laying the Body to Rest in the
Dutch painters are represented Chevalier with Saint Stephen. Grave by Giotto and parts of
here but, of course, the works Comprising half of the Diptych Scenes from the Life of St Humilitas
of Jan Vermeer and the master, of Melun, this is one of Fouquet’s by Pietro Lorenzetti. Paintings
Rembrandt, attract the greatest few non-miniature paintings. by Piero della Francesca, Fra
amount of interest. Rembrandt’s Nicolas Poussin, the main- Angelico, Masaccio, Andrea del
works include the paintings spring of the French Classical Verrocchio, Sandro Botticelli,
Samson and Delilah, Susanna and tradition, and Claude Lorrain, and Antonio del Pollaiuolo all
the Two Elders and Joseph and the famous for his idealized land- represent the 15th century.
Wife of Potiphar. It is also worth scapes, represent 17th-century In this collection you will also
taking time to view the Man in French painting. Eighteenth- find later works by Raphael,
the Golden Helmet, a sad yet century painting is strongly including the Madonna di Casa
noble painting originally represented by the canvases Colonna, and the Madonna
attributed to Rembrandt. of Jean-Antoine Watteau, Jean di Terranuova, painted after
Carbon-dating has shown it to Baptiste Siméon Chardin and Raphael’s arrival in Florence
be the work of members of his François Boucher. around 1505. There is also a
studio. It is a magnificent tribute Two areas in which this collection of works by the
to his skill as a teacher. collection is less complete are Venetian Renaissance painter
Spanish and English painting. Giovanni Bellini.
Nevertheless, there is a portrait Indeed, the Venetian school
by Diego Velázquez which is in general is well represented:
worth seeing, while the English Portrait of a Young Man by
pictures include good portraits Giorgione is a vibrant and
by rivals Sir Joshua Reynolds and colourful study; there is also
Thomas Gainsborough. Titian’s Venus and the Organ
Player and Tintoretto’s Virgin
and the Child Adored by Saints
Mark and Luke. It is worth
comparing Caravaggio’s Cupid
Victorious, whose provocative
and distinctly human sexuality
Jean Baptiste Siméon Chardin’s The contrasts with the spiritual
Draughtsman (1737) orthodoxy of Heavenly and
Earthly Love, by Giovanni
Baglione. Similar in style, the
French, English and two paintings convey opposing
Spanish Painting ideologies. Cardinal Giustiani,
The collection of French art can whose brother owned
be found in various parts of the Caravaggio’s controversial
gallery. Paintings of the 15th canvas, commissioned the latter
and 16th century are exhibited painting. Works by Giovanni
alongside Dutch paintings of Battista Tiepolo, Francesco Guardi
that era. The oldest works date Sir Joshua Reynolds’ Portrait of Lady and Antonio Canaletto represent
from the beginning of the Sunderlin (1786) the art of 18th-century Venice.
the gallery shows works by

exponents of a crass realism,
such as Otto Dix and Georg
Grosz. The most celebrated
artists of other European
countries are also included in
the collection – Pablo Picasso,
Fernand Léger, and the
Surrealists Giorgio de Chirico,
Salvador Dalí, René Magritte and
Max Ernst. Post-World War II art
is represented by the works of
Barnett Newman and Frank
Stella, among many others.
The sculpture garden houses
a variety of important works,
both figurative and abstract.
Following reunification, a
number of new works by artists
from the former East Germany
Karl Schmidt-Rottluff’s Farm in Daugart (1910), Neue Nationalgalerie were added to the collection.
Some of the art is sometimes
9 Neue minimalist building with a flat on display at the Hamburger
Nationalgalerie steel roof over a glass hall, Bahnhof (see pp114–15), as
New National Gallery which appears to float in mid-air both museums draw on the
supported only by six slender same collection.
Potsdamer Strasse 50. Map 7 C5.
interior struts. The permanent
Tel 266 424 242.  &  Potsdamer
collection is in the basement of
Platz or  Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-
Park. @ 200, M29, M41, M48, M85.
the museum, while the spacious 0 Potsdamer Platz
Closed until 2020 for renovation. ground-level glass hall plays See pp132–5.
&7 host to temporary exhibitions.
The collection of the Neue
The magnificent collection Nationalgalerie comprises q Shell-Haus
of modern art housed in the largely 20th-century art, but
Reichpietschufer 60. Map 13 C1.
Neue Nationalgalerie has a begins with artists of the late  Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-Park.
troubled history. The core of 19th century, such as Edvard @ 200, M29, M48, M85.
the collection consisted of Munch, Ferdinand Hodler and
262 paintings that belonged to Oskar Kokoschka. German This is undoubtedly a gem
banker JHW Wagener. In the late movements, such as Die for lovers of the architecture
1860s, when Wagener died, he Brücke, are well represented, developed during the period
bequeathed them to Crown with pieces by Ernst Ludwig between World Wars I and II.
Prince William, who housed Kirchner (notably his evocative This modernist office block was
them in the Nationalgalerie oil painting Potsdamer Platz) designed by Emil Fahrenkamp.
on Museum Island. and Karl Schmidt-Rottluff. Built from 1930 to 1932, it was
However, in 1937, a Nazi As well as the Bauhaus one of the first buildings in
programme of cultural cleansing movement, represented by Berlin to use a steel-frame
meant that over 400 of the Paul Klee and Wassily Kandinsky, construction.
works in the collection, which The most eyecatching wing
had grown to include paintings extends along Landwehrkanal
by Monet, Manet and Renoir, with a zig-zag elevation; from
were confiscated. a height of five storeys it climbs
After World War II the Berlin upwards in a series of steps,
municipal authority decided finishing up ten storeys high.
to rebuild the collection and Damaged during World
authorized the construction of a War II, Shell-Haus went through
suitable building in West Berlin several stages of restoration
to house it. A commission was and several incarnations,
given to the elder statesman including as headquarters
of modern architecture, the of the German navy and as
75-year-old Mies van der Rohe. a military hospital. Beautiful
The result was the first museum proportions and original
in what would later become design place the structure
known as the Kulturforum. The impressive exterior of the among the finest of Berlin’s
The national gallery is a striking, Shell-Haus office building buildings of its era.
TIERGARTEN І 131
Ludwig Beck was forced

to commit suicide, while
Stauffenberg, Friedrich Olbricht,
Werner von Haeften and Ritter
Mertz von Quirnheim were shot
in the Bendlerblock courtyard.
A monument commem-
orating this event, designed
by Richard Scheibe in 1953,
stands where the executions
were carried out. On the upper
floor of the building there is an
The German State Naval Office, now part exhibition documenting the
of the Bendlerblock complex history of the German anti-
Nazi movements.
w Bendlerblock
(Gedenkstätte e Villa von The captivating, streamlined buildings
Deutscher der Heydt of the Bauhaus-Archiv
Widerstand) Von-der-Heydt-Strasse 18.
Stauffenbergstrasse 13–14. Map 7 B5, Map 13 B1. Tel 266 41 28 88.  r Bauhaus-Archiv
7 C5. Tel 26 99 50 00.  Potsdamer Nollendorfplatz. @ 100, 200, M29. Klingelhöferstrasse 14. Map 13 A1.
Platz or Kürfurstenstrasse. @ M29, Tel 25 40 02 78.  Nollendorfplatz.
M48. Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri This fine villa, built in a late Neo- @ 100, 106, 187, M29.
(to 8pm Thu), 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. Classical style, is one of the few Closed for restoration until 2019.
Closed 1 Jan, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. & surviving reminders that the &7m=
southern side of the Tiergarten
The collection of buildings was one of the most expensive The Bauhaus school of art,
known as the Bendlerblock was and beautiful residential areas started by Walter Gropius in
originally built during the Third of Berlin. 1919, was one of the most
Reich as an extension to the Designed by Hermann Ende influential art institutions of the
German State Naval Offices. and GA Linke, the villa was built 20th century. The belief of the
During World War II these from 1860 to 1862. The neatly Bauhaus group was that art and
buildings were the head- manicured gardens and railings technology should combine in
quarters of the Wehrmacht around the villa are adorned harmonious unity.
(German Army). It was here with busts of Christian Daniel Originally based in Weimar,
that a group of officers planned Rauch and Alexander von and from 1925 in Dessau, this
their famous and ultimately Humboldt. The statues, by school provided inspiration for
unsuccessful assassination Reinhold Begas, originally lined numerous artists and architects.
attempt on Hitler on 20 July the Avenue of Triumph in the Staff and students included Mies
1944. When the attempt led by Tiergarten before being moved van der Rohe, Paul Klee, Wassily
Claus Schenk von Stauffenberg here. After restoration in 1980, Kandinsky, Theo van Doesburg
failed, he and his fellow the villa became the head- and László Moholy-Nagy. The
conspirators were quickly quarters of one of the most school moved to Berlin in 1932,
rounded up and arrested. The influential cultural bodies, but was closed down by the
death sentences on these men the Stiftung Preussischer Nazis in 1933.
were passed at the Plötzensee Kulturbesitz (Foundation of After the war, the Bauhaus-
prison (see p180). General Prussian Cultural Heritage). Archiv was relocated to
Darmstadt. In 1964 Walter
Gropius designed a building
to house the collection, but it
was never realized. The archive
was moved to Berlin in 1971 and
the design had to be adapted
to the new site. Because the
maestro was no longer alive,
the project was taken over
by Alexander Cvijanovic. The
gleaming white building with
its distinctive glass-panelled
gables was built between 1976
and 1979 and houses the archive,
library and exhibition halls, used
Neo-Classical façade of the elegant Villa von der Heydt for temporary displays.
0 Potsdamer Platz Deutschen Kinemathek, a

non-profit-making association
To experience the vibrant energy of the new Berlin, there for film-lovers, the museum
is no better place to visit than Potsdamer Platz. During the chronicles the development
Roaring Twenties it was Europe’s busiest plaza and a bustling of cinema from the first silent
entertainment centre, but during World War II it was bombed movie hits to the latest
science-fiction productions.
into a mountain of rubble. After the war, the square was left
However, the main focus is
as a derelict, wide-open space, a no-man’s-land beside the on German films from the
Berlin Wall. With reunification, the square was redeveloped glorious UFA days in the 1920s,
by various international business concerns, such as when Germany’s leading film
DaimlerChrysler and Sony, who subsequently sold the company produced one
properties. This building project is Berlin’s largest to date. smash hit after another at the
Babelsberg studios (see p207).
Berlin’s old hub is once again a dynamic centre, a jewel of
Films such as The Cabinet of
modern architecture created by architects such as Renzo Dr Caligari, directed by Friedrich
Piano, Helmut Jahn and Arata Isozaki. Wilhelm Murnau (1888–1931),
and M and Metropolis by Fritz
Lang (1890–1976), are presented
with costumes, set sketches,
original scripts, models and
photos. Exhibits also explore
the use of film during the Nazi
era, when film-making became
part of the propaganda
machine. In addition, the
museum documents the life
and work of the actor Kurt
Gerron, who died in Auschwitz.
One of the treasure troves
of the museum is the collection
of personal effects of the Berlin-
born diva Marlene Dietrich
Modern-day Potsdamer Platz (1901–1992). The exhibition
presents her gowns, personal
Beisheim Center receding façades on the upper correspondence and complete
Lenné-, Bellevue- and Ebertstrasse. levels, is meant to be a modern luggage set. A unique item is
∑ beisheim-center.de reinterpretation of New York’s a minute cigarette case, given
Otto Beisheim, the founder and Rockefeller Center. to her as a gift by the director
owner of the Metro retail chain, Josef von Sternberg (1894–
and one of Europe’s wealthiest Filmmuseum Berlin 1969), bearing the inscription:
entrepreneurs, has created a Potsdamer Strasse 2 (at Sony Center). “To Marlene Dietrich, woman,
glass and steel monument on Tel 30 09 03 54. Open 10am–6pm mother and actress as there
Potsdamer Platz – the Beisheim Tue–Sun, 10am–8pm Thu. & ^ 8 never was one before.” Also
Center. The two elegant high- ∑ filmmuseum-berlin.de on display are personal
rise towers on the northern In a city once famous for its possessions from German
edge of the square encompass world-class film industry, the film and TV stars such as Heinz
several de luxe apartments. The film museum takes visitors Rühmann (1902–1994) and
largest was sold for around backstage to Hollywood and Hans Albers (1891–1960).
$5 million, to an American the historic UFA (Universal Film The museum features a
émigrée returning to her home AG) film studios. range of exhibitions with
city, and is probably Berlin’s Located in the Sony Center changing themes and special
most expensive apartment. and run by the Freunde der film programmes.
The center also incorporates a
luxurious Ritz-Carlton and an
elegant Marriott hotel.
The building was designed by
the Berlin architectural team
Hilmer, Sattler & Albrecht,
although parts of the building
were also created by architect
David Chipperfield. The
sandstone appearance of the
small 19-floor skyscrapers, with Façade of the Filmmuseum Berlin
TIERGARTEN І 133
(see pp134–5). It has staged a

mix of local musical productions
and German versions of
Broadway hits.
The exclusive Adagio night-
club is located in the basement
of this building and Berlin’s
most popular casino, Spielbank
Berlin, can be found here too.
The theatre complex is also
the main forum for the Berlin
Filmfestspiele, known as the
Berlinale. One of the film
industry’s most important
festivals, it is held throughout
the city each February (see p53).
Arkaden, one of Berlin’s favourite shopping centres Over the course of the 10-day
event, around 400 films are
Potsdamer Platz Arkaden is nearby. With 19 screens, shown, most of which are
Alte Potsdamer Strasse 7. Tel 25 59 it can accommodate up to world and European premieres.
270. Open 10am–9pm Mon–Sat. 3,500 filmgoers. Perhaps the most important
CinemaxX: Potsdamer Strasse 5. part of the festival are the
Tel (040) 8080 69 69. & Theater am Potsdamer Platz Golden and Silver Bears
This entertainment and Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1. Tel (0180) awards, which are awarded
shopping complex is hugely 544 44. Open 8am–8pm daily. & to noteworthy major inter-
popular with visitors. Spread Spielbank Berlin: Marlene-Dietrich- national films. Tickets for
over three floors, the building Platz 1. Tel 25 59 90. screenings can be hard to
includes around 140 shops, Open 11am–5am daily. & come by, so plan well ahead
restaurants and boutiques. The Situated in a square dedicated if you wish to attend.
basement houses a food court to the famous actress Marlene Bluemax Theater, the Blue
with many budget eateries Dietrich, Berlin’s largest musical Man Group’s Berlin location,
offering regional specialities stage is housed in the modern is found on the opposite side
from all over Germany, as well Theater am Potsdamer Platz, of Marlene-Dietrich-Platz.
as several grocery shops. Berlin’s designed by Renzo Piano as The famous mute performers
largest cinema, the CinemaxX, part of the Daimler Quartier hold seven shows a week.
Historic Potsdamer Platz

Potsdamer Platz first evolved from a green park in 1831 and was named after one of the city’s gates, the
Potsdamer Tor, located to the east of today’s square. Thanks to a new railway station of the same name,
where the city’s first ever train made its maiden journey in 1838, the square developed into a major
traffic hub at the intersection of Potsdamer Strasse and other thoroughfares. Later an underground train
line, along with a total of 31 tram and bus lines, added to the traffic chaos here. At the beginning of the
20th century it became the centre of Berlin’s celebrated nightlife, with legendary, huge entertainment
venues such as Haus Vaterland and the Café Josty (a meeting place for famous artists including author
Theodor Fontane and painter Adolph
von Menzel), as well as several luxury
hotels. Germany’s first radio trans-
mission was broadcast in 1923 at the
Vox Haus. The square was almost
destroyed by Allied bombardments
during the final Battle of Berlin in
April 1945. It became a vast open
space in the shadow of the Berlin
Wall, where Western tourists,
standing on high observation
platforms, could peek over the wall.
The empty square featured in Wim
Wenders’ 1987 hit film Wings of Desire.
Development commenced in
1992, and Potsdamer Platz rose
to become Europe’s largest
construction site where a total of
$25 billion has been invested. Bustling Potsdamer Platz in the 1930s
Sony Center
Potsdamer Strasse 2. Open 24 hrs.
The Sony Center, designed by
the German-American architect
Helmut Jahn, is one of Berlin’s
most exciting architectural
complexes. Built between 1996
and 2000, the glitzy steel-and-
glass construction covers a
breathtaking 4,013 sq m
(43,195 sq ft).
The piazza at the heart of
the Center has become one
of Berlin’s most popular attrac-
tions. Set under a soaring tent-
like roof, it is dominated by a
pool with constantly changing
fountains where the water
sprays high into the air, then
falls back to rise again in a Interior of the cupola of the Sony Center, designed by Helmut Jahn
different location. The light
and airy piazza is surrounded luxury in pre-war Berlin, it Daimler Quartier
by the offices of Sony’s was almost destroyed during Around Alte Potsdamer Strasse.
European headquarters, as World War II. When the site Panorama Punkt observation platform:
well as apartment complexes, was sold to Sony by the City Potsdamer Platz 1. Tel 25 93 70 80.
several restaurants, cafés of Berlin in the early 1990s, the Open 10am–8pm daily. &
and shops including the Sony Berlin magistrate stipulated This vast complex was built
style store. There is also the that the Kaisersaal, stairways, between 1993 and 1998 and
Cinestar (see pp264–5), a huge bathrooms and several other comprises 19 modern buildings,
multiplex cinema with eight smaller rooms should be all designed in different styles
different screens, in addition restored and integrated into according to an overall plan
to the Filmmuseum Berlin the Sony Center. by architects Renzo Piano
(see p132). The integrated The historic ensemble and Christoph Kohlbecker.
IMAX cinema shows nature originally stood some 46 m The buildings form a long,
and science films on imposing (150 ft) away and was carefully narrow column of modern
360-degree screens. moved on air cushions to its architectural jewels leading
Inside the Sony Center is the present location in 1996. The south from Potsdamer Platz
small but magnificent Kaiser- fully restored Kaisersaal is all the way down to the
saal, a historic architectural dominated by a portrait of Landwehr Canal.
gem that is set behind a glass Kaiser Wilhelm II, the last Standing on either side of Alte
façade. This dining hall, one German emperor, whose Potsdamer Strasse, the red-brick
of the city’s finest, but private, frequent visits to the original high-rise block and its sister
function locations, was once hotel gave this hall its name, building opposite mark the
part of the Grand Hotel although he never actually entrance to this city quarter,
Esplanade. The epitome of dined in this particular room. and were designed by Berlin
architect Werner Kollhoff. The
western skyscraper is topped
by a 96-m- (315-ft-) high
observation platform called
Panorama Punkt (Panorama
Point). It offers a breathtaking
view, which can be reached via
Europe’s fastest elevator.
The green traffic-light tower
in front of the Daimler Quartier
is a replica of the first auto-
matic traffic light in Berlin (and
Europe), which was erected on
the same spot in 1924. In pre-
war days, Potsdamer Platz was
an intricate crossing of several
major streets and avenues,
making it Europe’s busiest traffic
The glass façade of the Kaisersaal, part of the Sony Center junction at the time.
TIERGARTEN І 135
At the southern end of this made Leipziger Platz one

complex is yet another high-rise of the major, and more
tower block, the Debis-Haus fashionable, shopping
(formerly the DaimlerChrysler districts in pre-war Berlin.
software subsidiary). This 90-m- Unfortunately, there
(295-ft-) high, 22-floor, yellow are no historic remnants
and green skyscraper is topped left. The current buildings
by a striking green cube and have a modern look but
was designed by Renzo Piano are restricted to a maxi-
and Hans Kollhoff (see p47). A mum height of only 35 m
captivating sculpture by Jean (115 ft), the same height
Tinguely, entitled Meta-Maxi, as the original buildings.
adorns its soaring atrium. The They house various
sculpture is powered by 16 shops and restaurants,
engines and symbolizes the the Canadian Embassy
constant movement of time. and further international
Various works of art were company headquarters.
commissioned especially for this
complex and these can be seen Haus Huth
throughout the public areas. Alte Potsdamer Strasse 5.
Tel 25 94 14 20. Rauschenberg’s sculpture Riding Bikes, with Haus Huth
Daimler Contemporary: in the background
8 6pm daily. with the Diekmann im Haus
The only historic building Huth restaurant, a small café
on Potsdamer Platz to escape and Hardy’s, an upmarket
destruction in World War II was wine shop.
the grey limestone building of Haus Huth is also home to
the Haus Huth. Originally a Daimler Contemporary, a small
restaurant and wine shop exhibition featuring key works
and still widely known as the and new additions to the
The red-brick office block of Daimler House Weinhaus, it was one of the first corporation’s collection of
buildings in Berlin to be erected 20th-century art, which
Leipziger Platz with a steel frame, intended to mostly consists of abstract and
Leipziger Platz, a small square support the weight of the wine. geometric paintings by German
just east of Potsdamer Platz, is It was designed by architects and international artists.
being regenerated and a huge Conrad Heidenreich and Paul The best view of the
new shopping complex now Michel in 1912. After the war, it building is from its south
occupies the site of the former stood alone on the vast eroded side where a jubilant, bright
Wertheim department store, square. Today the offices of the light installation by Robert
once the largest in Europe. At famous car manufacturers Rauschenberg called Riding
the southern end of the square Daimler are located here, along Bikes can be found.
lies the Dali Museum. The
original octagonal but rather
bland square was created
between 1732 and 1734 and
later renamed Leipziger Platz in
commemoration of the Battle
of Leipzig in 1813 (the first
decisive defeat of Napoleon). In
the 19th century, the architects
Karl-Friedrich Schinkel (1781–
1841) and Peter Joseph Lenné
(1789–1866) transformed the
square into an architectural gem
with landscaped gardens,
surrounded by some of the
most elegant city palaces and
mansions in the whole of Berlin.
At the beginning of the 20th
century the modern buildings,
most notably the Kaufhaus
Wertheim by Alfred Messel
(1853–1909) built 1897–1905, The historic Haus Huth on Potsdamer Platz
t Diplomaten
viertel
Diplomatic Quarter
Map 6 F5, 7 A5, B5, C5. 
Nollendorfplatz or Potsdamer Platz.
@ 100, 106, 187, 200.
Although a number of con

sulates existed in the Tiergarten
area as early as 1918, the estab
lishment of a diplomatic district
along the southern edge of the
Tiergarten, between Stauffen
bergstrasse and Lichtenstein
allee, did not take place until
the period of Hitler’s Third Reich, One of many tranquil areas within the Tiergarten
between 1933 and 1945. During
1938–43 large embassies was transformed into a land late 1930s. At the same period the
representing the Axis Powers, scaped park by Peter Joseph Strasse des 17 Juni was widened
Italy and Japan, were built here. Lenné in the 1830s. A half to twice its size, the square
Despite the fact that these kilometre Triumphal Avenue surrounding the roundabout
monumental buildings were was built in the eastern section was enlarged and much of the
designed by a number of of the park at the end of the 19th existing statuary removed.
different architects, the Fascist century, lined with statues of the In the northern section of the
interpretation of NeoClassicism country’s rulers and statesmen. square stands a vast bronze
and the influence of Albert World War II inflicted huge monument to the first German
Speer as head architect meant damage on the Tiergarten, Chancellor, Otto von Bismarck
that the group was homo including the destruction of (1815–98). Around it stand
genous, if bleak. Many of the the Triumphal Avenue, many allegorical figures, the work of late
buildings did not survive World of whose surviving monuments 19thcentury sculptor Reinhold
War II bombing. can now be seen in the Begas. Other statues represent
A diplomatic area has now Zitadelle Spandau. Replanting, various national heroes including
emerged along Tiergarten however, has now restored the Field Marshal Helmuth von
strasse. The Austrian embassy, Tiergarten, which is a favourite Moltke (1800–91), chief of the
designed by Hans Hollein, meeting place for Berliners. Prussian general staff between
stands at the junction of Its avenues are now lined the years 1858 and 1888, who
Stauffenbergstrasse, next door with statues of figures such as won the FrancoGerman war.
to the embassies of India and Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
the Republic of South Africa. At and Richard Wagner.
Tiergartenstrasse Nos. 21–3 the By the lake known as Neuer
preWorld War II Italian embassy See and the Landwehrkanal are
still stands, while next door is a memorials to the murdered
copy of the first Japanese leaders of the Spartacus
embassy. Between Klingel movement, Karl Liebknecht and
höferstrasse and Rauchstrasse Rosa Luxemburg (see p30). Also
stands an imposing complex of worth finding is a collection of
five embassies. Completed in gas lamps, displayed near the
1999, these represent Norway, Tiergarten SBahn station.
Sweden, Denmark, Finland and
Iceland. The complex has an art Monument to Otto von Bismarck
gallery and café which are open u Grosser Stern at the Grosser Stern
to the public. Great Star
Map 7 A4.  Bellevue.
 Hansaplatz. @ 100, 106, 187.
i Siegessäule
y Tiergarten Triumphal Column
Map 6 E4, 7 A3, 8 D3.  Tiergarten or
This vast roundabout at the
Grosser Stern. Map 7 A4. Tel 391 29
Bellevue. @ 100, 106, 187, 200. centre of the Tiergarten has five
61.  Bellevue.  Hansaplatz.
large roads leading off it in the
@ 100, 106, 187. Open Apr– Oct:
This is the largest park in Berlin. shape of a star. At its centre is the 9:30am–6:30pm daily; Nov–Mar:
Situated at the geographical enormous Siegessäule (Triumphal 10am–5pm daily. &
centre of the city it occupies a Column). Surrounding it are
surface area of more than 200 ha various monuments brought over The triumphal column is based
(495 acres). Once a forest used as from the nearby Reichstag on a design by Johann Heinrich
the Elector’s hunting reserve, it building (see pp138–9) during the Strack, and was built to
TIERGARTEN І 137
commemorate victory in the

Prusso-Danish war of 1864.
Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur
After further Prussian victories Established in 1763, the Königliche Porzellan-
in wars against Austria (1866) Manufaktur (Royal Porcelain Factory) was
and France (1871), “Goldelse”, a soon producing items of the highest artistic
gilded figure by Friedrich Drake quality, competing with the products of
representing Victory, was added the older Meissen factory in Saxony. The
to the top. The monument Berlin factory is particularly renowned for
stood in front of the Reichstag its Neo-Classical urns and plates decorated
building until the Nazi govern- with views of the city. Large collections of
porcelain with the markings KPM can be
ment moved it to its present
seen at the Ephraim-Palais (see p93), in
location in 1938. The base is
the Kunstgewerbemuseum (see pp122–5)
decorated with bas-reliefs and at the Belvedere within the grounds
commemorating battles. Higher of Schloss Charlottenburg (see pp164–5).
up the column a mosaic frieze It is also worth visiting the factory, located
by Anton von Werner depicts at Wegelystrasse 1, which is still producing Neo-Classical vase with
the 1871 founding of the porcelain, and includes a sales gallery a view of the
German Empire. An observation and exhibition hall. Gendarmenmarkt
terrace at the top offers
magnificent vistas over Berlin.
architecture in Berlin, built p Schloss Bellevue
for the 1957 Internationale Bellevue Palace
Bauausstellung (International
Spreeweg 1. Map 7 A3.  Bellevue.
Architectural Exhibition). Taking
@ 100, 187. Closed to the public.
on a World War II bomb site,
prominent architects from This captivating palace with
around the world designed its dazzlingly white Neo-
45 projects, of which 36 were Classical façade is now the
realised, to create a varied official residence of the
residential development set German Federal President.
in an environment of lush Built in 1786 to a design by
greenery. The list of distin- Michael Philipp Boumann for
guished architects involved in the Prussian Prince August
the project included Walter Ferdinand, the palace served
Gropius (Händelallee Nos. 3–9), as a royal residence until 1861.
Alvar Aalto (Klopstockstrasse In 1935 it was refurbished to
Nos. 30–32) and Oskar house a Museum of German
Niemeyer (Altonaer Strasse Ethnology. Refurbished again
Nos. 4–14). The development in 1938, it became a hotel for
also includes a school, a guests of the Nazi government.
Siegessäule (Triumphal Column) commercial services building Following bomb damage
and two churches. during World War II, the palace
In 1960, a new headquarters was carefully restored to its
o Hansaviertel for the Akademie der Künste former glory, with the oval
(Academy of Arts) was built ballroom rebuilt to a design
Map 6 E3, E4, F3.  Bellevue.
at Hanseatenweg No. 10. by Carl Gotthard Langhans.
 Hansaplatz. @ 100, 106, 187.
Akademie der Künste: Designed by Werner Düttmann, The palace is set within an
Hanseatenweg 10. Tel 20 05 72 00 0. the academy has a concert hall, attractive park laid out to the
Open 11am–8pm Tue–Sun. & an exhibition area, archives and original late 18th-century
a library. In front of the main design, though unfortunately
This area to the west of Schloss entrance is a magnificent piece, the picturesque garden
Bellevue is home to some of the Reclining Figure, by eminent pavilions did not survive
most interesting modern British sculptor Henry Moore. World War II.
Imposing façade of Schloss Bellevue, now the official Berlin residence of the German President
Hauptbahnhof railway station,

an impressive glass-and-steel
construction with several
levels above and underground.
In 2009 the city’s newest
U-Bahn line, the U55, was
completed, connecting
Hauptbahnhof to the
Bundestag and Brandenburger
Tor. This will eventually be
extended to Alexanderplatz
to meet with the U5 line.
Haus der Kulturen der Welt or “pregnant oyster” as it is also known

d Reichstag
a Haus der s Regierungsviertel Platz der Republik. Map 8 D3, E3.
Kulturen der Welt Government District  Bundestag. @ 100, 248. Tel 227
House of World Cultures Map 8 D2, E2.  Brandenburger Tor. 32 152. Dome: Open by appointment
 Bundestag. @ 100, 248. only via ∑ bundestag.de. Assembly
John-Foster-Dulles-Allee 10.
Hall: Open by appointment only.
Map 7 C3. Tel 39 78 70.  & This bold concept for a 8 10:30am, 1:30, 3:30 & 6:30pm
 Hauptbahnhof & Bundestag.
government district in keeping daily when parliament is not sitting.
@ 100. Open 10am–7pm daily.
with a 21st-century capital Closed 1 Jan, 24–26 & 31 Dec.
Exhibitions 11am–7pm Wed–Mon. &
was the winning design in
This former congress hall’s squat a competition held in 1992. Built to house the German
structure and parabolic roof has Construction of the complex Parliament, the Reichstag was
given rise to its affectionate began in 1997 and was intended to symbolise national
nickname “the pregnant oyster”. completed in 2003. Axel unity and the aspirations of the
Built between 1956 and 1957 Schultes and Charlotte Frank’s new German Empire, declared
to a design by the American grand design proposed a in 1871. The Neo-Renaissance
architect Hugh Stubbins, it was rectangular site cutting across design by Paul Wallot captured
intended as the American entry the meander of the Spree river the prevailing spirit of German
in the international architecture just north of the Reichstag. optimism. Constructed
competition “Interbau 1957” While many of the buildings between the years 1884
(from which the Hansaviertel have been designed by other and 1894, it was funded by
apartment blocks originated). architects, their plans fitting money paid by the French
It soon became a symbol of within the overall concept, as wartime reparations.
freedom and modernity in West Schultes and Frank designed On 23 December 1916, the
Berlin during the Cold War, the Bundeskanzleramt, situated inscription “Dem Deutschen
particularly when compared opposite the Reichstag, which Volke” (“To the German People”)
to the GDR-era monumental is the official residence of the was added to the façade. The
buildings of Karl-Marx-Allee in German Chancellor. The offices Reichstag became a potent
East Berlin (see pp174–5). – Alsenblock and Luisenblock – symbol that would be exploited
Unfortunately its roof failed to are the work of Stephan in the years to come.
withstand the test of time and Braunfels, as is the office It was there that in 1918
the building partially collapsed Dorotheenblöcke, built by a Philipp Scheidemann declared
in 1980. After reconstruction consortium of five architects. the formation of the Weimar
it was re-opened in 1989, with The whole project is comple- Republic. The next time
a change of purpose.: to bring mented by the neighbouring the world heard about the
world cultures to a wider
German audience, and stage
various events and perform-
ances to this effect. It is known
for its jazz festivals in particular
(see pp50–53).
Standing nearby is the black
tower of the Carillon, built in
1987 to commemorate the 750th
anniversary of Berlin. Suspended
in the tower is the largest
carillon in Europe, comprising
67 bells. Daily at noon and 6pm,
the bells give a brief computer-
controlled concert. The Bundeskanzleramt, the official residence of the Federal Chancellor
TIERGARTEN І 139
Chancellor of the Third Reich,

when it was being dismantled.
The column was designed by
Nicolai Sergievski, while the
imposing figure on top, a soldier
cast in bronze, is the work of
Lew Kerbel. This monument
is also a cemetery for around
2,500 Soviet casualties.
Following the partition of
Berlin, the site ended up in the
British sector, but formed a kind
of non-territorial enclave to
which Soviet soldiers posted
The Reichstag crowned by a dome designed by Sir Norman Foster to East Berlin had access.
Reichstag was on the night of f Sowjetisches

28 February 1933, when a fire
destroyed the main hall. The
Ehrenmal
Communists were blamed, Monument to Soviet Soldiers
accelerating a political witch- Strasse des 17 Juni. Map 8 D3.  &
hunt driven by the Nazis, who  Brandenburger Tor. @ 100, 248.
subsequently came to power.
With the onset of World War II, This huge monument near the
the building was not rebuilt. Brandenburg Gate was unveiled
Yet its significance resonated on 7 November 1945, on the
beyond Germany, as shown by anniversary of the start of the
the photograph of the Soviet October Revolution in Russia.
flag flying from the Reichstag Flanked by the first two tanks
in May 1945, which became a into the city, the monument
symbol of the German defeat. commemorates over 300,000
Between 1957 and 1972, Soviet soldiers who perished in
the dome and most of the the battle for Berlin at the end
ornamentation was removed. of World War II. The vast column
As well as providing a meeting- was made from marble taken The sculpture of a Soviet soldier atop the
place for the lower house of the from the headquarters of the Sowjetisches Ehrenmal
German Bundestag (Parliament),
the Reichstag also made a
spectacular backdrop for huge Berlin’s Bridges
festivals and rock concerts, Despite wartime damage, Berlin’s bridges are still well worth
much to the annoyance of seeing. The Spree river and the city’s canals have some exemplary
the East German authorities. architecture on their banks, while many of the bridges were
On 2 December 1990, the designed and decorated by famous architects and sculptors.
Reichstag was the first meeting- Probably the most renowned bridge is the Schlossbrücke designed
place of a newly elected by Karl Friedrich Schinkel (see p76). Further south along the
Bundestag following German Kupfergrabenkanal, the Schleusenbrücke dates from
reunification. On 23 June 1995, around 1914, and is decorated with reliefs
the artist Christo and his wife of the early history of the city’s bridges and
Jeanne-Claude wrapped the sluices. The next bridge, heading south, is
Reichstag in glistening fabric – the Jungfernbrücke dating from 1798, which
is the last drawbridge in Berlin. The next
an artistic statement that lasted
bridge along is the Gertraudenbrücke
for two weeks. (see p87). Where Friedrichstrasse crosses
The latest phase of rebuilding, the Spree river is the Weidendammer
between 1995 and 1999 to a Brücke, originally built in 1695–7 and
design by Sir Norman Foster, subsequently rebuilt in 1923, with an
transformed the Reichstag into eagle motif decorating its balustrade. On
a modern meeting hall beneath the Spree near the Regierungsviertel is the
an elliptical dome. Visits to the magnificent Moltkebrücke (1886–91). The
cupola’s viewing gallery are free bridge is guarded by a huge griffin wielding a
and the views are breathtaking. shield adorned with the Prussian eagle, while
Advance registration is required, cherubs dressed in a military fashion hold up Ornamental feature of a
either online or at least two lamps. On the arches of the bridges are bear on the
hours in advance at the service portraits of leaders designed by Karl Begas. Liebknechtbrücke
centre on Scheidemannstrasse.
KREUZBERG
The area covered in this chapter is only Kreuzberg has become an area of contrasts,
a part of the district of the same name. with luxury apartments next to dilapidated
The evolution of Kreuzberg began in the buildings. Some parts of Kreuzberg are
late 19th century, when it was a working- mainly Turkish, while others are inhabited
class area. After World War II, unrepaired by affluent young professionals. The
buildings were abandoned by those who district’s attractions are its wealth of
could afford to move, leaving a population restaurants and Turkish bazaars, as well
of artists, foreigners, the unemployed and as an interesting selection of nightclubs,
members of a variety of subcultures. cinemas, theatres and galleries.
Sights at a Glance Squares, Parks and Cemeteries Restaurants

Museums 7 Mehringplatz see pp236–7
2 Martin-Gropius-Bau 0 Friedhöfe vor dem Halleschen Tor 1 Altes Zollhaus
3 Topographie des Terrors w Viktoriapark 2 Bar Centrale
4 Checkpoint Charlie 3 Cafe do Brasil
5 Berlinische Galerie 4 Cocoro
6 Jüdisches Museum Berlin pp146–7 5 Dolden Mädel
8 Lapidarium 6 e.t.a. Hoffmann
9 Deutsches Technikmuseum Berlin 7 Golgatha
8 Gropius
Historic Buildings 9 Tim Raue
1 Anhalter Bahnhof 10 Tomasa
q Riehmers Hofgarten 11 Yorckschlösschen
e Flughafen Tempelhof
See also Street Finder maps
8, 9, 14 & 15
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DUDENSTRASSE
The Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Mehringplatz
and Friedrichstrasse
The areas north of Mehringplatz are the oldest
sections of Kreuzberg. Mehringplatz, initially called
Rondell, together with the Oktogon (Leipziger Platz)
and the Quarré (Pariser Platz) were laid out in 1734 as
part of the enlargement of Friedrichstadt. World War II
totally changed the character of this area. Full of
modern developments such as the Friedrichstadt
Passagen – a huge complex of shops, apartments,
offices, galleries and restaurants – only a few
buildings recall the earlier splendour of this district.
4 . Checkpoint Charlie
This small hut marks the place of the
notorious border crossing between
East and West Berlin.
FRI
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3 Topographie
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A shocking exhibition
HST
ST
detailing Nazi crimes

occupies the site of the
RA
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former Gestapo and
SS
SSE
SS headquarters.
E
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RA
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Key
Suggested route SE
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Deutsches FRA
Technikmuseum
Haus am
2 Martin-Gropius-Bau Checkpoint Charlie
This interesting, multi-coloured Butterflies on a piece
Neo-Renaissance building is now of the Berlin Wall
the main temporary art exhibition mark the entrance
space in the city. to this museum.
KREUZBERG  143
Springer-Hochhaus AROUND UNTER

This shopping and TIERGARTEN DEN LINDEN
restaurant complex is
located inside the Axel-
Springer-Hochhaus, a
1960s high-rise built KREUZBERG
adjacent to the Berlin
Wall as a highly visible
political statement.
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 14 & 15
Märkisches
E Museum
ASS
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TSC
DU
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6 . Jüdisches
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Museum Berlin
RA
Windows made to
TEN
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resemble cracks
create a striking effect
STR
STR
in the metallic facing

of this building by
ASS
ASS
architect Daniel
E Libeskind.
ASS
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0 metres 150
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FRI
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7 Mehringplatz
The former Rondell was
SSE
E
ASS known for many years
STR
L U HS– as Belle-Alliance-Platz.
Z–K Completely destroyed
during World War II,
it was rebuilt by Hans
Scharoun, who followed
the original design.
1 Anhalter
Bahnhof
Askanischer Platz 6–7. Map 14 E1.
 Anhalter Bahnhof.  Potsdamer
Platz.  Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-
Park. @ M29, M41.
Only a tiny fragment now
remains of Anhalter Bahnhof,
which was named after the
Saxon royal family. It was once
Berlin’s largest and Europe’s
second-largest railway station.
The hugely ambitious
structure was designed by
Franz Schwechten and
constructed in 1880. The station
was intended to be the biggest
and most elegant in Europe in Exhibition hall of Topographie des Terrors, documenting Nazi crimes
order to impress official visitors
to the capital of the German the windows are the crests of 3 Topographie
Empire. Some of the most
famous people to alight at
German cities, and within the
friezes are reliefs illustrating the
des Terrors
Anhalter Bahnhof were the different arts and crafts. In the Stresemannstrasse 110 (entrance on
Italian king Umberto, who was plaques between the windows Niederkirchnerstrasse 8). Map 8 F5, 14
welcomed by Kaiser Wilhelm II of the top storey are beautiful F1. Tel 254 50 90.  &  Potsdamer
himself, and the Russian Tsar Platz, Kochstrasse.  Anhalter
mosaics containing allegorical
Bahnhof. @ M29, M41.
Nicholas. The station was taken figures representing the
Open 10am–8pm daily. &
out of public use in 1943 after cultures of different eras
∑ topographie.de
its roof was destroyed by Allied and countries.
bombing. Only the front From 1922 Martin-Gropius- During the Third Reich Prinz-
portico remains, crowned by Bau accommodated the Albrecht-Strasse was probably
still-damaged sculptures and Museum of Ethnology, but the most frightening address
the hole that housed a large after World War II the building in Berlin. In 1934 three of the
electric clock, as well as was abandoned and left in most terrifying Nazi political
fragments of its once glorious ruins. Although plans for departments had their head-
façade. On the vast grounds an inner-city motorway quarters in a block between
behind it is the tent-like threatened it until the 1970s, Stresemann-, Wilhelm-,
entertainment venue, a reconstruction programme Anhalter- and Prinz-Albrecht-
Tempodrom (see p269). eventually commenced in Strasse (now Niederkirchner
1981, led by architects Strasse), making this area the
Winnetou Kampmann and government district of
2 Martin-Gropius- Ute Westroem. This was National Socialist Germany.
Bau followed in 1999 by a further The Neo-Classical Prinz-
Niederkirchnerstrasse 7 (corner of
refurbishment, and since Albrecht palace at Wilhelm-
Stresemannstrasse). Map 14 E1. then the building has housed strasse No. 102 became the
Tel 25 48 60. Open 10am–7pm a changing series of exhibi- headquarters of Reinhard
Wed–Mon.  &  Potsdamer Platz. tions on art, photography Heydrich and the Third Reich’s
@ 200, M29, M41. & and architecture. security service (SD). The arts
and crafts school at Prinz-
The innovative Martin-Gropius- Albrecht-Strasse No. 8 was
Bau was originally built to fulfil occupied by the head of the
the requirements of an arts Gestapo, Heinrich Müller, while
and crafts museum. It was the Hotel Prinz Albrecht at
designed by Martin Gropius No. 9 became the headquarters
with the participation of Heino of the Schutzstaffel, or SS, with
Schmieden and constructed Heinrich Himmler in command.
in 1881. The building is in a It was from the buildings in this
style reminiscent of an Italian area of the city that decisions
Renaissance palace, with a about the Germanization of the
magnificent glazed interior occupied territories were made,
courtyard, an impressive atrium as well as plans for the genocide
and unusual, richly decorated Allegorical mosaic on display in of European Jews. After World
elevations. Located between the Martin-Gropius-Bau War II, the ruins of the heavily
KREUZBERG І 145
bombed buildings were pulled 5 Berlinische

down. In 1987, however, an Galerie
exhibition documenting Nazi
crimes was installed in former Alte Jakobstrasse 124–28.
cellars here by committed Map 9 C5. Tel 78 90 26 00.
 Kochstrasse. @ 248, M29.
citizens of Berlin. An exhibition
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon. &
building was added in 2010. A
preserved section of the Berlin The city’s museum for modern
wall runs alongside the building, art, design and architecture
on Niederkirchner Strasse. is one of the finest regional
museums in the country.
Themed exhibitions, which
4 Checkpoint
are regularly changed, draw
Charlie upon its huge collection of
Friedrichstrasse 43–45. Map 9 A5. German, East European and
Tel 253 72 50.  Kochstrasse. Russian paintings, photo
@ M29. Haus am Checkpoint Charlie: graphs, graphics and
Open 9am–10pm daily. & The replica booth at the former architectural artifacts.
Checkpoint Charlie One of the highlights is
A Alpha, B Bravo, C Charlie. Not the 5,000strong paintings
many people remember that Also on Friedrichstrasse are two collection, which covers all
the name of this notorious large photographs of an Amer the major art movements
border crossing between the ican and a Russian soldier that from the late 19th century
American and Soviet sectors form part of a wellknown series until today. It includes works
stemmed from the word that by the Berlin photographer Frank by Max Liebermann, Otto Dix,
signifies the letter C in the Thiel. His portraits commemorate Georg Baselitz, Alexander
international phonetic alphabet. the departure of the Allies. Rodtschenko, Iwan Puni
Between 1961 and 1990, One of the original watch and Via Lewandowsky.
Checkpoint Charlie was the only towers is worth visiting at the The museum’s collection
crossing point for foreigners museum nearby – Haus am of sketches, prints and posters
between East and West Berlin. Checkpoint Charlie. The encompasses the Berlin
During that time, it represented museum’s rich collection details Dadaists George Grosz,
a symbol of both freedom and Cold War border conflicts, and Hannah Höch and Werner
separation for the many East the construction of the Berlin Heldt, as well as works by
Germans trying to escape from Wall. Of special interest are the Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and
the DDR’s Communist regime. exhibits connected with the Hanns Schimansky.
It was also witness to a number escape attempts of East Germans Amongst the architectural
of dramatic events during the to the West. The ingenuity and items held by the Galerie are
Cold War, including a tense bravery of these escapees is drawings and models for
twoday standoff between astonishing, using devices buildings that were never
Russian and American tanks such as secret compartments built, offering fascinating
in 1961. built into cars, and specially glimpses into how the city
In 1990, the checkpoint was constructed suitcases. might have looked. A fine
formally closed with an official A separate exhibition illustrates example is the shelllike
ceremony attended by the the peaceful campaigns carried Expressionist Sternkirche
foreign ministers of the four out in the name of democracy (Star Church), designed
occupying powers: the US, in many totalitarian countries. by Otto Bartning in 1922.
Great Britain, France and the
Soviet Union.
Little remains of the check
point: there are no longer any
gates, barriers or barbed wire to
be seen. Instead there is a
replica checkpoint booth, com
plete with sandbags and the
famous huge sign on the old
Western side that reads “You are
leaving the American Sector”.
There is also an exhibition space
called the BlackBox, housing the
Zentrum Kalter Krieg (Cold War
Centre), which documents and
explores the period after World
War II up until 1989. Kühn Malvessi’s Letter Field in front of the Berlinische Galerie
6 Jüdisches Museum Berlin

The Jewish Museum, designed by Daniel Libeskind, a
Polish-Jewish architect based in the United States, is an
exciting and imaginative example of late 20th-century
architecture. The plan, shape, style, and interior and
exterior arrangement of the building are part of a
complicated philosophical programme to illustrate the
history and culture of Germany’s Jewish community, and . Moses Mendelssohn’s
the repercussions of the Holocaust. The exhibition has Glasses
These glasses are on show
gathered many artifacts, such as books and photographs, in the section entitled
to bring the memories and stories of Jewish life alive. The “Moses Mendelssohn and
long, narrow galleries with slanting floors and sharp zig- the Enlightenment”, which
zagging turns are designed to evoke the feeling of loss and details the philosopher’s
fight for religious tolerance in
dislocation. These are interspersed by “voids” that represent a time when Jews possessed
the vacuum left behind by the destruction of Jewish life. no civil rights.
“Darwinian” (1904)
This caricature, published in the magazine Rural Jews and
Schlemiel, shows the evolution of a Jewish Court Jews
Hanukkah light into a Christian
Christmas tree, implying that the
wish of many Jews was to
assimilate with Germans.
Key
Beginnings
At the Heart of
Middle Ages the Family
1500–1800
Tradition and Change
1850–1933
Modern Judaism and Urban Life
1914–1933
1933–1945
The Present
Non-exhibition space German and Jewish
Suggested route at the Same Time
KREUZBERG  147
Museum Guide VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Entrance to the museum is via
an underground path from the Practical Information
former Berlin Museum next Lindenstrasse 9–14.
door. Stairs lead up to the start Map 15 A2.
of the exhibition, which is Tel 25 99 33 00.
divided into 14 sections, taking ∑ jmberlin.de
visitors through German Jewish Open 10am–10pm Mon,
history and culture from early 10am–8pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Jewish hols and 24 Dec.
history, through the Middle
&9
Ages and up to the present day.
Transport
 Hallesches Tor or Kochstrasse.
@ M29, M41, 248.
Entrance to exhibition
via underground tunnel
World War I and

Weimar Republic
. Daniel Libeskind’s Design

The extraordinary zinc-clad,
jagged structure of the museum
Exit Persecution is likened to a deconstructed
Resistance– Star of David, and attracted over
Extermination 350,000 visitors to the museum
in the two years before the
exhibitions were installed.
East and
West
Electric Iron AEG
An iron made by one of Germany’s largest electrical
companies, founded by Emil Rathenau, forms part of
the collection celebrating the dominant position
of Jews in trade and industry in Berlin throughout
the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
. Garden of Exile
Comprising 49 tilted
pillars to represent the
foundation of the state of
Israel in 1948, plus one for
Berlin, the garden also
symbolizes the forced
exile of Germany’s Jews.
electrotechnology and
computer technology. There are
also two windmills, a brewery
and an old forge. The section
called Spectrum is especially
popular with children as it
allows them to conduct “hands
on” experiments.
0 Friedhöfe vor
dem Halleschen Tor
Mehringdamm, Blücher, Baruther &
Zossener Strasse. Map 15 A3. Tel 691
A representation of Peace, by Albert Wolff, in Mehringplatz 61 38.  Hallesches Tor. @ 140, 248,
M41. Open Dec & Jan: 8am–4pm
7 Mehringplatz day. The Lapidarium once daily; Feb & Nov: 8am–5pm daily;
Map 15 A2.  Hallesches Tor.
contained numerous sculptures, Mar & Oct: 8am–6pm; Apr & Sep:
@ 248, M41.
including virtually all the 8am–7pm; May–Aug: 8am–8pm.
sculptures that once decorated
Mehringplatz was planned in the Avenue of Victory in the Beyond the city walls, next to
the 1730s, when the boundaries Tiergarten, known as “Puppen the Hallesches Tor, are four
of the city were extended. Its allee”. These majestic statues of cemeteries established in
original name was Rondell, celebrated warriors and rulers 1735. Among the beautiful
meaning “circus”, an appropriate stood side by side in their robes gravestones are great Berlin
name, as Wilhelmstrasse, Fried and weapons, only slightly artists including the composer
richstrasse and Lindenstrasse all diminished by the loss of Felix MendelssohnBartholdy,
converged here. many heads, arms and other architects Georg Wenzeslaus
Rondell was originally the body parts. In 2009 the von Knobelsdorff, David Gilly
work of Philipp Gerlach; then, in Lapidarium was sold, and all and Carl Ferdinand Langhans,
the 1840s, Peter Joseph Lenné the statues were transferred and the writer, artist and
designed the decoration of to the Zitadelle Spandau. composer ETA Hoffmann.
the square. At the centre is the
Column of Peace, commemo
9 Deutsches q Riehmers
rating the Wars of Liberation in
1815. The column is crowned Technikmuseum Hofgarten
by the figure of Victory by Berlin Yorckstrasse 83–86, Grossbeeren
Christian Daniel Rauch. Two strasse 56–57 & Hagelberger Strasse
Trebbiner Strasse 9. Map 14 E2.
sculptures were added in the 9–12. Map 14 F4.  Mehringdamm.
Tel 90 25 40.  Gleisdreieck.
1870s: Peace by Albert Wolff; @ M29, M41. Open 9am–5:30pm @ 140, 248, M19.
and Clio (the Muse of History) Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun. 7 &
by Ferdinand Hartzer. Riehmers Hofgarten is the name
In the 19th and early The Technical Museum was first given to the 20 or so exquisite
20th centuries the area was established in 1982 with the houses arranged around a
populated with politicians, intention of grouping more
diplomats and aristocrats, than 100 smaller, specialized
and in 1947 the square was collections under one roof.
named after the writer The current collection is
Franz Mehring. The current arranged on the site of the
buildings date from the 1970s. former trade hall, the size of
which allows many of the
museum’s exhibits, such as
8 Lapidarium locomotives, aircraft, boats,
Hallesches Ufer 78. Map 14 E2.
water towers and storerooms,
 MendelssohnBartholdyPark. to be displayed fullsize and in
their original condition.
This interesting building, Of particular interest in
decorated with an enchanting the collection are the dozens
Orientalstyle chimney, was of locomotives and railway
once Berlin’s pumping station. carriages from different eras as
It was built from 1873 to 1876 well as the vintage cars. There
and designed by Hermann are also exhibitions dedicated
Blankenstein. The original steam to flying, the history of paper Headstone in the picturesque Friedhöfe
pumps have survived to this manufacture, printing, weaving, vor dem Halleschen Tor
KREUZBERG І 149
Schinkel, created between 1817

and 1821, which commemorates
the Prussian victory against
Napoleon’s army in the Wars of
Liberation. The cast-iron tower is
well ornamented. In the niches
of the lower section are 12
allegorical figures by Christian
Daniel Rauch, Friedrich Tieck
and Ludwig Wichmann. Each
figure symbolizes a battle and
is linked to a historic figure –
either a military leader or a
member of the royal family.
e Flughafen
Tempelhof
Platz der Luftbrücke. Map 14 F5.
Tel 200 03 74 41.  Platz der
Luftbrücke. @ 104, 248. Open tours
3pm Sat & 2pm Sun. &
Tempelhof airport was once

Germany’s largest. Built in 1923,
it was enlarged during the
Third Reich. The building
Renaissance-style façade in Riehmers Hofgarten is typical of Third Reich
architecture, even though
picturesque garden in the Marheinekeplatz, where there the eagles that decorate the
area bordered by the streets is a lively covered market. buildings predate the Nazis.
Yorckstrasse, Hagelberger The additions to the original
Strasse and Grossbeerenstrasse. structure were designed by
These houses were built w Viktoriapark Ernst Sagebiel in 1939.
between 1881 and 1899 to In 1951, a monument was
Map 14 E4, E5, F5.  Platz
the detailed designs of Wilhelm added in front of the airport.
der Luftbrücke. @ 104, 140, M19.
Riehmer and Otto Mrosk, Designed by Eduard Ludwig,
respected architects who This rambling park, with several it commemorates the airlifts of
not only designed intricate, artificial waterfalls, short trails the Berlin Blockade. The three
Renaissance-style and Neo- and a small hill, was designed spikes on the top symbolize
Baroque façades but also gave by Hermann Machtig and built the air corridors used by
equal splendour to the between 1884 and 1894. The Allied planes. The airport was
elevations overlooking the Neo-Gothic Memorial to the Wars permanently closed in 2008
courtyard garden. The streets of Liberation at the summit of the and is now gradually being
of Riehmers Hofgarten have hill is the work of Karl Friedrich turned into a park.
been carefully restored and
Yorckstrasse also has quite a
few cafés. Next to Riehmers The Berlin Blockade (1948–9)
Hofgarten is the church of On 24 June 1948, as a result of rising tensions between East Germany
St Bonifaz, which was designed and West Berlin, Soviet authorities blockaded all the roads leading to
by Max Hasak. Adjacent to the West Berlin. In order to ensure food and fuel for the residents, US General
church is a similar complex of Lucius Clay ordered that provisions be flown into the city. British and
houses built in an impressive American planes made a total of
Neo-Gothic style. 212,612 flights, transporting almost
To experience the authentic 2.3 million tons of goods, among
atmosphere of old Kreuzberg, which were parts of a power
you need to go no further than station. In April 1949, at the height
Bergmannstrasse. Here, entire of the airlifts, planes were landing
districts of 19th-century every 63 seconds. The blockade
houses have been restored. The ended in May 1949. Although the
atmosphere is further enhanced airlifts were successful, there were
by antique streetlamps, a casualties: 70 airmen and 8 ground Allied plane bringing supplies during
pedestrianized street, and bars crew lost their lives. the Berlin Airlift
and galleries. This is also true for
AROUND KURFÜRSTENDAMM
The eastern area of the Charlottenburg centre of West Berlin. Traces of wartime
region, around the boulevard known as destruction were removed very quickly
Kurfürstendamm, was developed in the and this area was transformed into the
19th century. Luxurious buildings were heart of West Berlin, and dozens of new
constructed along Kurfürstendamm (the company headquarters and trade centres
Ku’damm), while the areas of Breitscheidplatz were built. The situation changed after
and Wittenbergplatz became replete with the reunification of Berlin and, although
hotels and department stores. After World many tourists concentrate on the Mitte
War II, with the old centre (Mitte) situated district, the heart of the city continues to
in East Berlin, Charlottenburg became the beat around Kurfürstendamm.
Sights at a Glance
Museums w Savignyplatz Restaurants
5 C/O Berlin t Tauentzienstrasse see pp237–8
7 Newton-Sammlung Parks 1 Baba Angora
q Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum 2 Belmondo
1 Zoologischer Garten
Streets and Squares 3 Bleibergs
Historic Buildings 4 Brasserie Le Faubourg
4 Kurfürstendamm
2 Europa-Center 5 Brenner
0 Fasanenstrasse
3 Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis- 6 Cafe-Restaurant Wintergarten
Kirche pp156–7 im Literaturhaus
6 Ludwig-Erhard-Haus 7 Calcutta
8 Theater des Westens 8 Dicke Wirtin
R.
ST
9 Jüdisches Gemeindehaus 9 Dormero Hotel Berlin Ku’damm

CH
e Universität der Künste 10 Esswein am Fasanenplatz

EI
AR
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r Technische Universität 11 Florian

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y KaDeWe 12 Grüne Lampe
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ERNST-REUTER- STRASSE NENI Berlin
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See also Street Finder maps
450m
5, 6, 11, 12 & 13
The magnificent Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-Kirche For keys to symbols see back flap

Street-by-Street: Breitscheidplatz
and Ku’damm Kant-Dreieck
This building,
The area surrounding the eastern end of the containing only
Ku’damm, especially Tauentzienstrasse and right angles, was
designed by Josef
Breitscheidplatz, is the centre of the former West Paul Kleihues. The
Berlin. Thirty years ago this ultra-modern district, full “sail” on the roof
of department stores and office blocks, attracted makes it instantly
visitors from all over the world. Today, although the recognizable.
area still retains its unique atmosphere, it is
becoming overshadowed by Potsdamer Platz and
the arcades of Friedrichstrasse. However, nowhere
else in Berlin is there a place so full of life as
Breitscheidplatz, a department store with such style
as KaDeWe, or streets as refined as Fasanenstrasse.
KA
9 Jüdisches Gemeindehaus
N
TS
Some of the remaining
TR
fragments of the old synagogue
A
SS
have been incorporated into
E
the façade of this building.
Literaturhaus contains
a charming café and a
good bookshop.
KU
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The museum is housed T
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villas on Fasanenstrasse. IM
H
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JO
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0 Fasanenstrasse
SE
This tranquil street features

some of the most
expensive shops in Berlin.
Key
Suggested route
4 Ku’damm
A stroll along the Ku’damm
is a stroll into the heart of
0 metres 400
Berlin, and an essential part
0 yards 400 of any visit to the city.
AROUND KURFÜRSTENDAMM  153
6 Ludwig-Erhard-Haus
The structure of the Berlin AROUND SCHLOSS
CHARLOTTENBURG
Stock Exchange is based
TIERGARTEN
on parabolic arches.
AROUND
KURFÜRSTENDAMM
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 6, 11, 12 & 13.
8 Theater des Westens

The façade of this musical
theatre is fittingly decorated
with dancing women.
Bahnhof Zoo
2 Europa-Center
One of the attractions of the Europa-Centre
is a glazed courtyard containing a fountain
with moving parts.
B
U
D
A
P
E
S
T
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T
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1 . Zoologischer
ST
Garten
RA
The Oriental-style
SS
Elephant Gate is one of

E
two entrances to the

Zoological Gardens.
3 . Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Gedächtnis-Kirche
The mosaics on the wall of the
sacristy, by Hermann Schaper,
survived World War II undamaged.
enormous animals under- 4 Kurfürstendamm

water. The aquarium, one Map 11 A2, B2, C3, 12 D1.  Kurfürs-
of the largest in Europe, tendamm or Uhlandstrasse or Zoolog-
contains sharks, piranhas ischer Garten. @ 109, 110, M19, M29.
and unusual animals from
coral reefs. There is also a One of the most elegant streets
huge terrarium with an over- in Berlin, this wide avenue was
grown jungle that is home to established in the 1880s on
a group of crocodiles. the site of a former track that
led to the Grunewald forest.
It was quickly populated with
2 Europa-Center imposing buildings and grand
hotels. In the 20 years between
Breitscheidplatz. Map 12 E1.
Hippopotamus House is spanned by World Wars I and II, the
 &  Zoologischer Garten.
fine-meshed glass domes @ 100, 109, 200, X9.
Ku’damm was renowned for its
great cafés, visited by famous
1 Zoo Berlin The Europa-Center stands writers, directors and painters.
Zoological Garden on the site of the legendary After World War II, the
Romanisches Café, a famous damaged houses were replaced
Hardenbergplatz 8 or Budapester
meeting place for Dada artists in with modern buildings, but the
Strasse 34. Map 6 E5, 12 E1. Tel 25 40
10.  &  Zoologischer Garten.
the 1920s. The current building street’s essential character
@ 100, 109, 110, 200, 204, 245, 249, was established in 1965, and remained. During the Cold War
M45, M46, M49, X9, X10, X34. Open 21 since that time it has been one years it became the main
Mar–3 Oct: 9am–7pm daily; 4 Oct–20 of the largest complexes of its shopping street in West Berlin.
Mar: 9am–5pm daily. & type in the whole of Germany. Today, elegant shops and cafés
∑ zoo-berlin.de Designed by Helmut Hentrich continue to attract a chic crowd.
and Hubert Petschnigg, the
Zoo Berlin is one of Berlin’s Europa-Center is a group of low-
greatest attractions and rise buildings housing a trade 5 C/O Berlin
many animal “stars” are to be centre, numerous restaurants
Hardenbergstr 22–24. Map 12 D1.
found here. It is part of the and pubs. The deluxe Hotel
Tel 284 44 160.  Zoologischer
Tiergarten and dates from Palace Berlin has also been Garten. @ 245, M49, X10, X34, 100,
1844, which makes this zoo incorporated into the Center. 200. ∑ co-berlin.org
the oldest in Germany. You Around the Center are some
can enter from Harden- fountains, including the “Flow This photography exhibition
bergplatz through the Lion’s of Time Clock”, designed by centre showcases work by
Gate, and from Budapester Bernard Gitton. Seconds, renowned photographers as
Strasse through the decorative minutes and hours are mea- well as young talent, and holds
Oriental-style Elephant Gate. sured in vials and spheres artist talks, lectures and guided
The zoo offers a number of green liquid. The Europa- tours. It is housed in Amerika
of attractions, including the Center also houses the political Haus, the former American
monkey house, which cabaret Die Stachelschweine. culture and information centre,
contains a family of gorillas, built during the international
and a darkened pavilion for building exhibition in 1956–7
nocturnal animals. The 3 Kaiser-Wilhelm- to a light and airy design by
hippopotamus pool has a Gedächtnis-Kirche Bruno Grimmek.
glazed wall that enables
visitors to observe these See pp156–7.
6 Ludwig-Erhard-
Haus
Fasanenstrasse 85. Map 6 D5.  &
 Zoologischer Garten. @ 245,
M45, M49, X9, X34.
The distinctive curve of this

innovative building houses the
headquarters of the Berlin stock
exchange as well as a trade and
industry centre. Completed in
1998, it is the creation of British
architect Nicholas Grimshaw and
has been compared to the skin
of an armadillo, a giant skeleton
The Europa-Center, flanked by Bikini Berlin mall and Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-Kirche and the ribbing of a shell.
AROUND KURFÜRSTENDAMM І 155
7 Newton- that houses the stage have

Sammlung been rebuilt within a Neo-
Gothic structure, incorporating
Jebensstrasse 2. Map 6 D5. Tel 31 86 the decorative elements of
48 56.  &  Zoologischer Garten. a chess set.
Open 10am–6pm Tue, Wed & Fri–Sun,
From its very beginning the
10am–8pm Thu. &
theatre catered for lighter forms
After his death in 2004, the of musical entertainment.
society and art photographer Operettas and vaudeville were
Helmut Newton (1931–2004) staged here, followed by
bequeathed his life’s work to the musicals such as Les Misérables.
city of Berlin. Newton, who was Some of the world’s greatest
born and received his first stars have appeared on the
training as a photographer stage here, including Josephine
in Berlin, became one of the Baker, who performed her
20th century’s most well-known famous banana dance in
photographers with his stark 1926. Near the theatre is the
black-and-white images of renowned Delphi cinema and
nudes and portraits of the popular jazz club Quasimodo. The entrance of the Jüdisches
rich and famous. Gemeindehaus
This museum is constantly
extending its collections and 9 Jüdisches The new building, designed
serves as the city’s museum of Gemeindehaus by Dieter Knoblauch and
photography. It exhibits selec- Jewish Community House Heinz Heise, was constructed
tions of Newton’s work, including in 1959. The only reminders of
Fasanenstrasse 79/80. Map 12 D1.
his early fashion and nude Tel 88 02 80.  &  Zoologischer
the splendour of the former
images as well as self-portraits Garten.  Uhlandstrasse or Kurfürst- synagogue are the portal at the
and landscapes. There is also a endamm. @ 245, M49, X10, X34. entrance to the building and
collection of Newton’s cameras. some decorative fragments
The Jewish community has its on the façade.
headquarters in this building, Inside there are offices, a
constructed on the site of a school, a kosher restaurant
synagogue that was burned called Arche Noah and a prayer
down during Kristallnacht on room covered by three glazed
9 November 1938 (see p31). domes. At the rear there is a
The original synagogue was courtyard with a place of
designed by Ehenfried Hessel remembrance. There is also an
in a Romanesque-Byzantine emotive statue at the front of
style and built in 1912. The the building, depicting a
ruins of the synagogue were broken scroll of the Torah (the
removed only in the mid-1950s. holy book of Jewish law).
The façade of the Theater des

German Cinema
Westens on Kantstrasse The 1920s were a boom time for the
arts, and German cinema gained
8 Theater prominence throughout the world
des Westens with the rise of Expressionism. The
opening of the UFA film studios in
Kantstrasse 9–12. Map 12 D1. 1919 in Babelsberg (see p207) was a
Tel (0180) 544 44.  &  milestone in the development of
Zoologischer Garten. @ M49, X9, X10, German cinema. The studios became
X34, 100, 109, 110, 200. the heart of the film industry and
rivalled Hollywood as a centre for
The Theater des Westens, one
innovation. Many famous films were
of the most picturesque of all produced here, including the Marlene Dietrich in the well-known
Berlin’s theatres, was built in Expressionist masterpiece The Cabinet film The Blue Angel
1896 to a design by Bernhard of Dr Caligari (1920) by Robert Wiene,
Sehring. The composition of Ernst Lubitsch’s Madame Dubarry (1919) with Pola Negri, and Nosferatu
its façade links Neo-Classical (1922) by Friedrich Murnau. Other films released by the studios were
elements with Palladian and Art Fritz Lang’s Doctor Mahuse (1922) and his futuristic film Metropolis (1927).
Nouveau details. The interior of In April 1930, the studios premiered Josef von Sternberg’s The Blue Angel,
the theatre has been designed featuring the young Marlene Dietrich in the lead role. After Hitler came
in a splendid Neo-Baroque style, to power, many directors and actors left Germany.
while the back and the section
3 Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-Kirche
This church-monument is one of Berlin’s most famous
landmarks, surrounded by a lively crowd of street traders,
buskers and beggars. The vast Neo-Romanesque church
was designed by Franz Schwechten. It was consecrated in
1895 but was destroyed by bombs in 1943. After World War II
the ruins were removed, leaving only the massive front tower
at the base of which the Gedenkhalle (Memorial Hall) is
situated. This hall documents the history of the church
and contains some of the original ceiling mosaics, marble
reliefs and liturgical objects from the church. In 1961,
Egon Eiermann designed an octagonal church in blue
glass and a new free-standing bell tower.
Kaiser’s Mosaic
Kaiser Heinrich I is depicted
here in this elaborate mosaic,
sitting on his throne.
Main Altar
The vast figure
of Christ on the
Cross is the work
of Karl Hemmeter.
Mosaic Decoration
Original mosaics remain on the
arches and the walls near the
staircase. These feature the
Dukes of Prussia among the
other decorative elements.
KEY
1 Walls of reinforced concrete

and blue-coloured glass form
a dense grid.
2 Rose window
3 Kaiser’s Mosaic
4 The figure of Christ is a vast
sculpture by Hermann Schaper and
once decorated the church altar.
It survived World War II damage.
5 The damaged tower roof of the
former church is one of the best-
known symbols of Berlin.
Breitscheidplatz.
Map 12 D1.
Tel 218 50 23.
Church: Open 9am–7pm daily.
Gedenkhalle: 10am–6pm Mon–
Sat, noon–6pm Sun. R 10am &
6pm Sun. &
Transport
 &  Zoologischer Garten or
 Kurfürstendamm. @ 100,
109, 110, 200, 204, 245, M19, M29,
M46, X9, X10, X34.
Bell Tower
The new hexagonal bell tower
stands on the site of the
former main nave of the
destroyed church.
Tower Clock
The tower is decorated
with a clock based on a
Classical design.
. Mosaic of the
Hohenzollerns
The mosaic of the
Hohenzollerns is
in the vestibule.
The family is led
by Queen Luise
and the centre is
dominated by
Kaiser Wilhelm I.
Orthodox Cross
This cross was a gift
from the Russian
Orthodox bishops from
Volokolamsk and Yuryev,
given in memory of the
victims of Nazism.
. Coventry Crucifix
Main This modest cross was fashioned from nails
entrance found in the ashes of Coventry Cathedral,
England. The cathedral was destroyed
during German bombing raids in 1940.
flowerbeds. However, the area

around the square truly comes
alive at night. The dozens of
cafés and restaurants fill up,
while in summer the entire
edge of the square and
neighbouring streets turn into
one big garden filled with
tables and umbrellas. People
come from outlying districts to
visit popular restaurants and
cafés such as Esswein am
Fasanenplatz, or Dicke Wirtin
(see p237). The arcades in the
Fasanenstrasse – one of the most elegant streets in Berlin viaduct contain many cafés and
bars, and one section has been
0 Fasanenstrasse artist settled in Berlin, where she taken up by the Bücherbogen
Map 11 C2, 12 D1, 12 D3.  married a doctor who worked in bookshop (see p254).
Uhlandstrasse. @ 109, 110, M49, Prenzlauer Berg, a working-class
district (see p101). Her drawings
X10, X34. e Universität
and sculptures portrayed the
The discreet charm of Fasanen- social problems of the poor, as der Künste
strasse, particularly between well as human tragedy and University of the Arts
Lietzenburger Strasse and suffering. She frequently took Hardenbergstrasse 32–33 and
Kurfürstendamm, has attracted up the theme of motherhood Fasanenstrasse 1b. Map 6 D5.
the most exclusive designer and war after losing a son and  Zoologischer Garten or 
shops in the world. Well- grandson in World Wars I and II. Ernst-Reuter-Platz. @ 245, M45, X9.
maintained buildings, fin-de- The museum exhibits her ∑ udk-berlin.de
siècle villas set in tranquil work, including sculptures,
gardens, and elegant shop posters and drawings, as well The Universität der Künste was
windows of jewellers, art as letters and photographs. originally called Preussische
galleries and fashion shops Akademie der Künste, and
will all entice you to take an was established in 1696. It
afternoon stroll along this street. continued a long tradition of
It is worth seeing the villas at teaching artists in Berlin and has
No. 23–25, which are called the been headed by well-known
Wintergarten-Ensemble. The figures including Johann
first one, No. 23, dates from Gottfried Schadow and Anton
1889. Tucked away in a garden, von Werner. As a result of a
the villa is home to the number of reforms between
Literaturhaus, which organizes 1875 and 1882, the Academy
interesting exhibitions and was divided into two separate
readings. It has an excellent colleges. A complex of buildings
café that extends into a was erected for them on
conservatory. At No. 24 is the Hardenbergstrasse and
Käthe-Kollwitz museum, and Fasanenstrasse. The Neo-
No. 25, built in 1892 by Hans Baroque buildings were built
Grisebach, accommodates an between 1897 and 1902 to a
auction house and art gallery. Mother and Child, from the design by Heinrich Keyser and
Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum Karl von Grossheim.
After World War II, only two
q Käthe-Kollwitz-
large buildings, both with
Museum w Savignyplatz decorative façades, survived. On
Fasanenstrasse 24. Map 11 C2. Map 11 C1.  Savignyplatz.
the Hardenbergstrasse side was
Tel 882 52 10.  Uhlandstrasse or @ M49, X34.
the Hochschule für Bildende
Kurfürstendamm. @ 109, 110, 204, Künste (College for Fine Art),
249, X10. Open 11am–6pm daily. & Savignyplatz is enclosed on the while on the Fasanenstrasse
9 ∑ kaethe-kollwitz.de south side by the arcade of a side was the Hochschule für
railway viaduct, which appears Musik und Darstellende Kunst
This small private museum in the film Cabaret by Bob Fosse. (College for Music and Perform-
provides a unique opportunity During the day the square does ing Arts). Unfortunately, the
to become acquainted with the not look interesting – there are concert hall did not survive.
work of Käthe Kollwitz (1867– no remarkable buildings, only A new one was built in 1955,
1945). Born in Königsberg, the carefully tended greenery and designed by Paul Baumgarten.
y KaDeWe
Tauentzienstrasse 21–24. Map 12 E2.
Tel 21 21 0.  Wittenbergplatz.
@ M19, M29, M46. Open 10am–
8pm Mon–Thu, 10am–9pm Fri,
9:30am–8pm Sat. ∑ kadewe.de
Kaufhaus des Westens, or

Bas-relief sculpture on the façade of the Universität der Künste KaDeWe, as it is popularly
known, is the largest depart-
A small fin-de-siècle building, t Tauentzienstrasse ment store in Europe. It was
which looks like a castle, at built in 1907 to a design by
Map 12 E1.  Wittenbergplatz.
Hardenbergstrasse No. 36, Emil Schaudt, but it has been
@ M19, M29, M46.
is a college for religious music extended several times from the
and belongs to this group of This is one of the most original building. From the very
college buildings. important streets for trade and beginning KaDeWe was Berlin’s
commerce in this part of Berlin. most exclusive department
Some shops here are not as store, with a comprehensive
r Technische
expensive or as elegant as on collection of goods for sale and
Universität Kurfürstendamm – but they with a slogan that ran “In our
Technical University attract more visitors for this shop a customer is a king, and
Strasse des 17 Juni 135. Map 5 C4. 
reason. One of the highlights of the king is a customer”.
Ernst-Reuter-Platz. @ 245, M45, X9. the street is the unusual façade After World War II, KaDeWe
of the department store Peek & effectively became the symbol
The vast area that lies to the Clopenburg. Designed by of the economic success of
east of Ernst-Reuter-Platz along Gottfried Böhm, the walls of West Berlin. You can buy
the Strasse des 17 Juni is the building are covered with everything here; however, the
occupied by the buildings of transparent, gently slanting main attraction must be the
the Technische Universität. and undulating “aprons”. Food Hall, a gourmet’s paradise,
Officially called Technische Other highlights include the with the largest collection of
Universität Berlin (TUB), it was central bed of colourful flowers, foodstuffs in the whole of
established in 1879 after the as well as an interesting sculp- Europe. Here there are exotic
unification of the School of ture entitled Berlin. Created by fruits and vegetables, live fish
Crafts and the renowned Brigitte and Martin Matschinsky- and seafood, 100 varieties of tea,
Bauakademie. From its Denninghoff, the sculpture was more than 2,400 wines and a
inception the Technische erected near Marburger Strasse host of other gastronomic
Universität had five different in 1987 on the occasion of the delights. KaDeWe also has a
departments, which were all 750th anniversary of Berlin. restaurant, the Wintergarten.
housed, from 1884, in a Neo-
Renaissance building designed
by Richard Lucae, Friedrich
Hitzig and Julius Raschdorff.
After World War II, the ruined
front wing was rebuilt as a flat
block without any divisions,
while the rear wings and three
internal courtyards retained
their original appearance.
It is worth continuing along
Strasse des 17 Juni towards the
colonnade of the Charlotten-
burger Tor (or gate), dating from
1908. The colonnade is
ornamented with the figures of
Friedrich and Sophie Charlotte
holding a model of Schloss
Charlottenburg (see pp164–5)
in their hands. Beyond the gate
and to the right, on the island,
is an unusual green building
with a gigantic pink pipe. This is
the centre that monitors water
currents and caters to the needs
of seagoing vessels. The sculpture Berlin, symbolizing the formerly divided city
AROUND SCHLOSS
CHARLOTTENBURG
The area surrounding Schloss Charlottenburg renamed Schloss Charlottenburg after the
is one of the most enchanting regions of the death of Queen Sophie Charlotte. By the
city, full of greenery and attractive buildings 18th century Charlottenburg had become
dating from the end of the 19th century. a town, and was for many years an
Originally a small settlement called Lützow, it independent administration, inhabited
was only when Elector Friedrich III (later King by wealthy people living in elegant villas.
Friedrich I) built his wife’s summer retreat It became officially part of Berlin in 1920,
here at the end of the 17th century (see p23) and despite World War II and the ensuing
that this town attained significance. Initially division of the city, the central section of
called Schloss Lietzenburg, the palace was this area has kept its historic character.
Sights at a Glance
Museums Parks and Gardens Restaurants
3 Neuer Flügel 5 Schlosspark see pp238–9
6 Gipsformerei Berlin Monuments 1 Ana e Bruno
9 Museum Scharf-Gerstenberg 2 Brauhaus Lemke
2 Reiterdenkmal des Grossen
0 Museum Berggruen 3 Chenab
Kurfürsten
q Bröhan-Museum 4 Don Giovanni
Historic Buildings 5 Engelbecken
6 Eosander
1 Schloss Charlottenburg pp164–5
7 Gourmanderie
4 Neuer Pavillon (Schinkel-Pavillon)
8 Natural’mente
7 Mausoleum 0 metres 600 9 Restaurant Kien-Du
8 Belvedere
0 yards 600 10 Taverna Ambrosios
w Schlossstrasse Villas
11 Zur Weißen Kastanie
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Porzellankabinett, the porcelain gallery inside Schloss Charlottenburg For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by Street: Around the Schloss

The park surrounding the former royal
summer residence in Charlottenburg is one
of the most picturesque places in Berlin.
Visitors are drawn here by the meticulous
post-war rebuilding of this luxury Baroque
complex and outlying structures, whose
marvellous interiors were once home to
Prussian nobles. The wings of the palace and
its pavilions house interesting exhibitions.
After a stroll in the beautiful park, you can 1 . Schloss Charlottenburg
take refreshment in the Kleine Orangerie. The central section of the palace
is called Nering-Eosanderbau, in
honour of the architects who
designed the building.
2 Reiterdenkmal
des Grossen Kurfürsten
The monument to the Great
Elector was funded by his son
King Friedrich I and designed
by Andreas Schlüter.
0 metres 150
Kleine Orangerie
0 yards 150
3 Neuer Flügel
The palace’s new wing was once home to Key
the royal art collection. Today the building
Suggested route
houses changing art and history exhibits.
AROUND SCHLOSS CHARLOT TENBURG  163
7 Mausoleum
In the Neo-Classical
mausoleum built for Queen
Luise, members of the royal
family are laid to rest.
around SchloSS
charlottenburg
Locator Map
8 Belvedere
In 1960 Karl Bobeck
created the group of
statues that surmount the
Belvedere, in imitation of
the original figures which
were designed by
Johann Eckstein.
5 Schlosspark
A French-style park,
laid out in a geometric
pattern, extends
behind the palace.
4 . Neuer Pavillon
In front of the western elevation of
this pavilion are two granite columns
(1840), topped by statues of Victory,
the work of Christian Daniel Rauch.
1 Schloss Charlottenburg Gallery Guide

The palace in Charlottenburg was intended as The ground floor of Altes Schloss houses
a summer home for Sophie Charlotte, Elector the opulent Baroque chambers of
Friedrich III’s wife. Construction began in 1695 Frederick I, a Portrait Gallery and
to a design by Johann Arnold Nering. Between the Porcelain Cabinet. The
1701 and 1713 Johann Friedrich Eosander upper floors include the
apartment of Friedrich
enlarged the palace, crowning it with a cupola Wilhelm IV and a silver
and adding the orangery wing. Subsequent and tableware
extensions were undertaken by Frederick collection.
the Great (Friedrich II), who added the
Neuer Flügel, designed by Georg
Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff, First floor
between 1740 and 1746.
Restored to its former
elegance following World
War II, its collection of
richly decorated interiors Ground floor
is unequalled in Berlin.
. Porzellankabinett
This exquisite mirrored
gallery has walls lined from
top to bottom with a fine
display of Japanese and
Chinese porcelain.
Schlosskapelle
Only parts of the pulpit in the court
chapel are original to the palace. All the
other furniture and fittings, including
the royal box, are reconstructions.
Main
entrance
Cupola
The palace’s tall,
Façade Baroque cupola
The central section of the palace is completes the
the oldest part of the building, and perspective from
is the work of Johann Arnold Nering. Schlossstrasse.
AROUND SCHLOSS CHARLOT TENBURG  165
Fortuna VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

A sculpture by Richard Scheibe
crowns the palace, replacing Practical Information
the original statue destroyed Spandauer Damm 20–24.
during World War II. Map 4 E2. Altes Schloss
(Nering-Eosanderbau):
Tel (030) 32 09 11.
Key ∑ spsg.de
Official reception rooms Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to
Apartments of Sophie Charlotte 5pm Nov–Mar). 8 compulsory
on ground floor only. &
Neuer Flügel or Knobelsdorff-Flügel
exhibition space Neuer Flügel (Knobelsdorff-
Flügel):
Friedrich Wilhelm II’s summer Tel (030) 32 09 10.
apartments
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon (to
Mecklenburg apartments 5pm Nov–Mar). & 9
Apartments of Friedrich Wilhelm IV
Transport
Friedrich Wilhelm II’s winter  Richard-Wagner-Platz &
apartments
Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. 
Frederick the Great’s apartments Westend. @ 109, 145, 210, X21.
Goldene Galerie
This garden ballroom
dating from 1746 is one
of the most creative
examples of Prussian
Rococo interior design.
Weisser Saal
Neuer Flügel
The new wing holds the elegant
apartments and exquisite furniture
of Friedrich Wilhelm II.
Entrance to
Neuer Flügel
. Gersaint’s Shop Sign (1720)

An avid collector of French paintings, Frederick
the Great bought this and other fine canvases
by Antoine Watteau for his collection.
the Great Elector as Alte Nationalgalerie (see p80).

a warrior in ancient The rest have been moved
armour (albeit wear to the Neuer Pavillon. In its
ing a 17thcentury place, the new wing houses
wig) mounted on Frederick the Great’s private
horseback, triumph quarters. Items on display
ant over the figures include paintings he acquired
of prisoners of war and curiosities such as his
around the base. collection of snuff boxes. The
The base itself is wing also hosts temporary art
decorated with and history exhibitions.
patriotic reliefs of
allegorical scenes.
4 Neuer Pavillon
One scene depicts
the kingdom (Schinkel-Pavillon)
surrounded by Luisenplatz (Schlosspark Charlotten
figures representing burg). Map 4 F2. Tel 30 32 09 11.
History, Peace and  RichardWagnerPlatz & Sophie
the Spree river; CharlottePlatz.  Westend. @ 109,
another shows the 309, M45. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
kingdom protected Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm
by embodiments Tue–Sun. &
of Faith, Bravery (in
The Monument to the Great Elector standing in front of the form of Mucius This charming NeoClassical
Schloss Charlottenburg Scaevola) and pavilion, with its clean lines
Strength (represented and firstfloor balcony, was
2 Reiterdenkmal by the figure of Hercules). built for Friedrich Wilhelm III
and his second wife, Princess
des Grossen Auguste von Liegnitz. During
Kurfürsten 3 Neuer Flügel a visit to Naples, the king stayed
Monument to the Great Elector in the Villa Reale del Chiamonte
Luisenplatz (Schloss Charlottenburg–
Luisenplatz. Map 4 E2. and was so impressed that he
Neuer Flügel). Map 4 E2. Tel 30 32
 RichardWagnerPlatz & Sophie 09 11.  RichardWagnerPlatz & commissioned Karl Friedrich
CharlottePlatz.  Westend. SophieCharlottePlatz.  Westend. Schinkel to build him some
@ 109, 309, M45. @ 109, 309, M45. Open Apr–Oct: thing similar. The pavilion was
10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: finished for the king’s birthday
The statue of the Great Elector 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. on 3 August 1825. Schinkel
(Friedrich Wilhelm) is the finest designed a twostorey structure
in Berlin and was paid for by his Built between 1740 and 1747, with a central staircase and
son, Elector Friedrich III (later the new wing of Schloss ranged the rooms around it
King Friedrich I). Designed by Charlottenburg used to house in perfect symmetry. Pillared
Andreas Schlüter to be cast in the popular Galerie der galleries on the first floor added
one piece, the statue was started Romantik. The main part of this variety to the eastern and
in 1696 but not finished until collection of Romantic paintings western elevations. A castiron
1703. It was initially erected near has now been returned to the balcony runs around the entire
the former Berlin palace, by
Lange Brücke (now called
Rathausbrücke). The statue was
moved to safety during World
War II, but ironically, on the
return journey, the barge
transporting the monument
sank in the port of Tegel.
In 1949 the statue was
retrieved intact from the water
and erected in the courtyard
of Schloss Charlottenburg.
However, it lacked the original
base, which was left behind in
East Berlin, so a copy was com
missioned. The original base
finally ended up in the Bode
Museum topped with a replica
of the statue. The statue portrays The Neuer Pavillon, which was modelled on a Neapolitan villa
AROUND SCHLOSS CHARLOT TENBURG І 167
shipped home. Sculptures are

generally copied in white plaster
or painted true to the original.
Most moulds originate from the
Middle Ages, the Renaissance
and the 19th century.
7 Mausoleum
Luisenplatz (Schlosspark Charlotten-
burg). Map 4 D2. Tel 32 09 14 46.
 Richard-Wagner-Platz & Sophie-
Charlotte-Platz.  Westend. @ 109,
309, M45. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun. Closed Nov–Mar. &
French-style garden in the Schloss Charlottenburg park Queen Luise, the beloved wife
of Friedrich Wilhelm III, was laid
structure. Like many other strict geometrical design to rest in this modest, dignified
Schloss Charlottenburg with a vibrant patchwork of building, set among the trees in
buildings, the pavilion burned flowerbeds, carefully trimmed Schlosspark. The mausoleum
down completely in World War II shrubs and ornate fountains was designed by Karl Friedrich
and was rebuilt in 1960. It re- adorned with replicas of antique Schinkel, in the style of a Doric
opened after renovations in 2011. sculptures. Further away from portico-fronted temple.
The display inside the the palace, beyond the curved In the original design, the
pavilion reveals the original carp lake, is a less formal queen’s sarcophagus was
splendour and atmosphere English-style landscaped park, housed in the crypt while the
of the aristocratic interiors, the original layout of which tombstone (actually a cenotaph
enhanced with pictures and was created between 1819 and sculpted by Christian Daniel
sculptures of the period. The 1828 under the direction of the Rauch) stood in the centre of
prize picture is a renowned renowned royal gardener, Peter the mausoleum. After the death
panorama of Berlin dated 1834, Joseph Lenné. The lakes and of Friedrich Wilhelm in 1840, the
painted by Eduard Gärtner from waterways of the park are the mausoleum was refurbished, an
the roof of the Friedrichs- habitat of various waterfowl, apse added and the queen’s
werdersche Kirche (see p65). You including herons. A bike path tomb moved to one side,
can also admire paintings by stretches along the Spree river leaving room for her husband’s
Karl Friedrich Schinkel, who was from the palace park to the tomb, also designed by Rauch.
not only a great architect but Grosses Tiergarten and beyond. The second wife of the king,
also a fine painter of fabulous Princess Auguste von Liegnitz,
architectural fantasies. was also buried in the crypt of
6 Gipsformerei
the mausoleum, but without
Berlin a tombstone.
5 Schlosspark Replica Workshop Between the years 1890 and
Palace Park Sophie-Charlotten-Strasse 17–18. 1894, the tombs of Kaiser
Luisenplatz (Schloss Charlottenburg). Map 4 D3. Tel 32 67 69 11.  Sophie- Wilhelm I and his wife, Auguste
Map 4 D1.  Richard-Wagner-Platz & Charlotte-Platz.  Westend. @ 309, von Sachsen-Weimar, were
Sophie-Charlotte-Platz.  Westend. M45. Open times vary depending on added to the crypt. Both
@ 109, 309, M45. exhibition; call ahead. monuments are the work of
Erdmann Encke.
This extensive royal park that Founded by Friedrich Wilhelm III
surrounds Schloss Charlotten- in 1819, the Gipsformerei
burg (see pp164–5), criss-crossed produces original-sized replicas
with tidy gravel paths, is a from items in Berlin museums
favourite place for Berliners and other collections, and also
to stroll at the weekend. The repairs damaged sculptures.
park is largely the result of The first head of the workshop
reconstruction work carried was renowned sculptor Christian
out after World War II, when Daniel Rauch.
18th-century prints were used Visitors are welcome to this
to help recreate the varied modest brick building west of
layout of the original grounds. Schloss Charlottenburg and can
Immediately behind Schloss purchase items on the spot or
Charlottenburg is a French-style choose from catalogues to have The Schinkel-designed Mausoleum,
Baroque garden, made to a them made to order and final resting place of German royalty
1859 by Friedrich August Stüler,

they were inspired by a design
by King Friedrich Wilhelm IV.
The eastern pavilion joins the
stable block and once housed
the Ägyptisches Museum
(Egyptian Museum), which
has now moved to its original
location, the Neues Museum,
on Museum Island.
Since the departure of the
Egyptian Museum, the Marstall
(stable block) has housed the
Museum Scharf-Gerstenberg.
Titled “Surreal World”, the
museum presents paintings,
sculptures and works on paper
by Surrealist and associated
artists such as Dalí, Magritte,
Max Ernst, Paul Klee and Jean
Dubuffet, and also older works
by Goya, Piranesi and Redon.
More than 250 objects are
presented over three floors,
explaining the history of surreal
art, with pieces from almost all
The Belvedere’s Baroque flourishes and clean Neo-Classical lines the leading Surrealists. A film
programme features classic
8 Belvedere Biedermeier, including some Surrealist films by Luis Buñuel
outstanding individual items. and Salvador Dalí.
Spandauer Damm 20–24 (Schlosspark
Charlottenburg). Map 4 E1. Tel 32 09
10.  Richard-Wagner-Platz & 9 Museum Scharf- 0 Museum
Sophie-Charlotte-Platz.  Westend.
@ 109, 309, M45. Open Apr–Oct:
Gerstenberg Berggruen
10am–6pm Tue–Sun; closed in winter. Schlossstrasse 70. Map 4 E3. Tel 266 Schlossstrasse 1. Map 4 E3.
42 42 42.  Richard-Wagner-Platz & Tel 266 42 42 42.  Richard-Wagner-
The Belvedere is a summer Sophie-Charlotte-Platz.  Westend. Platz & Sophie-Charlotte-Platz.
house in the Schlosspark which @ 309, M45. Open 10am–6pm  Westend. @ 109, 309, M45.
served as a tea pavilion for Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat & Sun. & Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 11am–
Friedrich Wilhelm II and, in times 6pm Sat & Sun. 9 7 =
of war, as a watchtower. It dates The two pavilions on either side
from 1788 and was designed by of Schlossstrasse were intended Heinz Berggruen assembled this
Carl Gotthard Langhans. The as officers’ barracks for the tasteful collection of art dating
architect mixed Baroque and King’s Guard du Corps. Built from the late 19th and first half
Neo-Classical elements, giving between the years 1851 and of the 20th century. Born and
the building an oval central educated in Berlin, he emigrated
structure with four straight- to the US in 1936, spent most of
sided annexes. The building his later life in Paris, but finally
is crowned by a low dome entrusted his collection to the
topped with a sculpture of city of his birth. The museum
three cherubs supporting a opened in what was once the
basket of flowers. west pavilion of the barracks
Though the Belvedere was using space freed up by moving
ruined during World War II, the Antiken-sammlung to
the summer house was Museum Island (see p77). The
reconstructed between 1956 exhibition halls were modified
and 1960 and adapted to serve according to the designs of
as an exhibition space. The Hilmer and Sattler, who also
exhibition is a large collection designed the layout of the
of porcelain from the Berlin Gemäldegalerie. The Museum
Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur Berggruen is particularly well
(Royal Porcelain Workshop), known for its large collection of
which has pieces from the Odilon Redon’s work in pastel, quality paintings, drawings and
Rococo period up to late Museum Scharf-Gerstenberg gouaches by Pablo Picasso.
AROUND SCHLOSS CHARLOT TENBURG І 169
The Great Elector (1620–88)

The Elector Friedrich Wilhelm was one of the most famous
rulers of the Hohenzollern dynasty. He inherited the position of
Elector of Brandenburg in 1640. Brandenburg-
Prussia, founded in 1618, was subject to the
Polish crown. One of his first duties was to
rebuild the region after the devastation of
the Thirty Years’ War (see p23) and in 1660
he wrested the territory from Poland.
During the course of his reign, Berlin
became a powerful city. Rich families
from all over Europe, fleeing perse-
cution in their own land, chose to
settle in Berlin – wealthy Dutch
Pablo Picasso’s Woman in a Hat (1939), merchants, Huguenots from France
Museum Berggruen and Jews from Vienna following
the Edict of Potsdam (1685).
The collection begins with a
drawing from his student days
in 1897 and ends with works Baluschek, are especially well garden, however, a character-
he painted in 1972, one year represented. Alongside the istic of the area, was only
before his death. In addition paintings there are fine returned to its original state in
to these, the museum displays examples of arts and crafts in 1986, when several villas had
more than 60 works by Swiss other media: furniture, ceramics, their gardens restored. If you
artist Paul Klee and more than glassware, silverwork and continue the walk down the
20 works by Henri Matisse. The textiles. Each of the main halls nearby Schustehrusstrasse,
museum also houses paintings features an individual artist, but there is an interesting school
by other major artists, such as often using an array of artistic building at No. 39–43, linked to
Van Gogh, Braque and Cézanne. media. There is also a display of the Villa Oppenheim since the
The collection is supplemented furniture by Hector Guimard, end of the 19th century.
by some excellent sculptures, Eugène Gaillard, Henri van de
particularly those of Henri Velde and Joseph Hoffmann,
Laurens and Alberto Giacometti. glasswork by Emile Gallé, and e Luisenkirche
porcelain from the best Luise Church
European manufacturers.
Gierkeplatz 4. Map 4 F3. Tel 341 90 61.
q Bröhan-Museum  Richard-Wagner-Platz & Sophie-
Schlossstrasse 1a. Map 4 E3. Tel 32 69 w Schlossstrasse Charlotte-Platz. @ 109, M45.
Open 9am–1pm Mon, Tue,
06 00.  Richard-Wagner-Platz &
Sophie-Charlotte-Platz.  Westend.
Villas Thu & Fri, 2–6pm Wed & during
@ 109, 309, M45. Open 10am–6pm Schlossstrasse 65–67. Map 4 E3. Sunday service (10am).
Tue–Sun. Closed 24 & 31 Dec. &  Sophie-Charlotte-Platz. @ 309.
∑ broehan-museum.de This small church has undergone
Most of the historic villas and a series of redesigns and refurb-
Located in a late Neo-Classical buildings that once graced ishments in its lifetime. The
building which, like the Schlossstrasse no longer exist. original plans by Philipp Gerlach
Museum Berggruen, was However, careful restoration were first adapted by Martin
formerly used as an army of a few villas enables the Böhme, before the church was
barracks, is this small visitor to get a feel for built (1713–16). Its Baroque
but interesting what the atmosphere styling was removed in the next
museum. The must have been like course of rebuilding, undertaken
collection of at the end of the 19th by Karl Friedrich Schinkel from
decorative arts was century. It is worth 1823 to 1826, when the church
amassed by Karl taking a stroll down was renamed in memory of
H Bröhan, who from Schlossstrasse to look Queen Luise, who died in 1810.
1966 collected works at three of the reno- The last refurbishment took place
of art from the Art vated villas – No. 65, No. after the church suffered major
Nouveau (Jugendstil 66 and especially No. 67. damage during World War II.
or Secessionist) and This last villa was built in The shape of the church is
Art Deco styles. The 1873, in a Neo-Classical based on a traditional Greek
Art Deco vase,
paintings of the artists style to a design by cross, with a tower at the front.
Bröhan-Museum
particularly connected G Töbelmann. After The interior fixtures and fittings
with the Berlin Secessionist World War II, the building was are not the originals, and the
movement, such as Karl refurbished to return it to its elegant stained-glass windows
Hagermeister and Hans former splendour. The front were only made in 1956.
FURTHER AFIELD
Berlin is an extensive city with a totally as Schloss Britz and Schloss Schoenhausen,
unique character, shaped by its history. were absorbed into Berlin (even Schloss
Up until 1920 the actual city of Berlin Charlottenburg was outside the city
consisted only of the present districts limits until 1920). Industrialization called
Mitte, Tiergarten, Wedding, Prenzlauer for workers and means of transporting
Berg, Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg. It was and housing them, and both residential
surrounded by satellite towns and villages, and commercial construction boomed
which for many years had been evolving as a result.
independently. Each of these had its own Over the following decades the faces of
administrative centre, parish church and many of these boroughs changed. Modern
individual architecture. Some of these housing developments have arisen together
town’s residents still speak of “going to with industrial centres, although some
Berlin” when ultimately they are simply places have kept their small-town or rural
hopping on a bus for a few stops. character. Thanks to this diversity, a stay in
In 1920, as part of great administrative Berlin can equate to visiting several cities
reforms, seven towns were incorporated simultaneously. A short journey by S-Bahn
into Berlin, along with 59 communes and enables you to travel from the cosmopolitan
27 country estates. This reform effected the city centre of the 21st century to the vast
creation of an entirely new city occupying forests of the Grunewald, Peacock Island or
around 900 sq km (348 sq miles), with a the beach at Wannsee. You can explore
population that had expanded to 3.8 million. everything from Dahlem’s tranquil streets
The range of the metropolis extended and lined with villas, to Spandau’s Renaissance
Berlin now had leafy suburbs and boroughs citadel, cobbled lanes and vast Gothic
of medieval origins, such as Spandau. church of St Nicholas – all just half an hour
Villages, private estates and palaces, such away from the centre and well worth a visit.
Map of Greater Berlin

1
A1
A1
96a
0
A1
11
Northwest Berlin Northeast Berlin

see pp176–81 see pp172–5
2
96
158
Flughafen
109
Tegel
1
A11
A100
96
5
a
2/5
1/5
2
2/5
1
Wannsee and Havel

see pp188–9
A1
00
15
A1
1
Southeast Berlin
see pp182–3
A1
96
13
a
96
1
10
Zehlendorf and Dahlem

see pp184–7 Key
Central Berlin
0 kilometres 5 Autobahn (motorway) Minor road
0 miles 5 Main road Railway line
Statue of Kaiser Wilhelm inside Grunewaldturm (see p189) For keys to symbols see back flap
Northeast Berlin
To the north, the Baroque palace of Schönhausen is a real
attraction in the middle of Pankow’s Schlosspark gardens.
From here it is worth visiting the Weissensee district, which
has one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe. Walking
the partly neglected grounds is a haunting experience.
Hohenschönhausen, in the very east of the district, is home
to the Stasi-Museum, a memorial and museum on the grounds
of East Germany’s main secret service prison. A section of the garden elevation
of Schloss Schönhausen
1 Schloss estranged wife of Frederick the Make time for a stroll through
Great, between 1740 and 1797. the vast park, which has kept
Schönhausen In 1763 further extensive the pleasant character bestowed
Tschaikowskistrasse 1. Tel (0331) 96 94 refurbishment was undertaken on it by Peter Joseph Lenné in
200.  &  Pankow. @ 150, 250. by architect Johann Boumann. the 1820s.
v M1. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm The property remained in the
Thu–Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Sat, hands of the Prussian royal
Sun & hols. 8 2 Gethsemane-
family for the next hundred
This palace, located in an years. Among those who kirche
extensive and picturesque park, resided here were Princess Stargader Strasse 77. Tel 44 57 745. 
belonged to the von Dohna Auguste von Liegnitz, following &  Schönhauser Allee. R 11am Sun.
family during the 17th century. the death of her husband,
Ownership of the estate passed King Friedrich Wilhelm III. This Neo-Gothic red-brick
to the Elector Friedrich III in After World War II the rebuilt building is the most famous
1691, for whom Johann Arnold palace was occupied by the church in the area, playing as
Nering designed the palace. president of the German Demo- it did a crucial role in East
In 1704 it was extended to a cratic Republic, Wilhelm Pieck. Germany’s peaceful revolution.
design by Johann Friedrich In 1990 Round Table discussions The neighbourhood is
Eosander von Göthe, who were held here and the treaty dominated by the Protestant
added side wings. The palace to reunify Germany was signed Gethsemanekirche, which dates
was home to Queen Christine, on 3 October that year. back to 1890. The church was
Sights at a Glance
14
A1
1 Schloss Schönhausen
2 Gethsemanekirche
3 Jüdischer Friedhof Weissensee
Pankow 4 Volkspark Friedrichshain
Heinersdorf
Pankow 5 Zeiss-Grossplanetarium
96
a
6 Mauerpark
7 Gedenkstätte Berlin-
2
109
Hohenschönhausen
Weissensee 8 Karl-Marx-Allee
Schonhauser 9 East Side Gallery
Allee
0 Oberbaumbrücke
Hohen- q Stasi-Museum
Schönhausen
Greifswalder Marzahn
Poelchaustr.
158
Str.
Prenzlauer
Berg
Key
2
City centre
Autobahn (motorway)
96a
Lichtenberg
Strausberger Main road
2/5
Platz
1/5 Minor road
Mitte Lichtenberg
1 Ostbahnhof Friedrichshain Magdalenenstr. Railway line
Sp
re Warschauer
Rummelsburg 0 kilometres 2
e Str.
Ostkreuz 0 miles 2
Kreuzberg

FURTHER AFIELD І 173
one of several built on the order 3 Jüdischer

of Emperor Wilhelm II, who Friedhof
wanted to increase religious
worship among the mostly Weissensee
Social Democratic working- Herbert-Baum-Strasse 45. Tel 925 33
classes living in Prenzlauer Berg 30.  Greifswalder Strasse, then
and other areas. The building v 12, M4, M13. @ 156, 200.
was designed by August Orth Open Apr–Sep: 7:30am–5pm Mon–
(1828–1911), one of the Thu, 7:30am–2:30pm Fri, 8am–5pm
period’s most important Sun; Oct–Mar: 7:30am–4pm Mon–Thu,
architects of churches and 7:30am–2:30pm Fri, 8am–4pm Sun.
railway stations. Closed Sat & public hols.
The Protestant community
here is proud to have pioneered This extensive Jewish cemetery,
civil rights movements, and established in 1880 according
hosted political anti-Nazi rallies to a design by Hugo Licht, is the
from 1933 to 1945. The congre- final resting place for more than
gation also questioned the 115,000 Berliners, many of
Socialist regime after World whom were victims of Nazi Neo-Baroque Märchenbrunnen in
War II, while the church itself persecution. It is chilling to note Volkspark Friedrichshain
served as an assembly hall for that many surnames listed on
peaceful opponents in October gravestones simply no longer 4 Volkspark
1989. On 2 October that year, exist in Germany, due to whole Friedrichshain
the praying crowd was brutally familes being eradicated or
Am Friedrichshain/Friedenstrasse.
attacked by the East German driven out of the country.
Map 10 F1. @ 142, 200. v M5, M6,
secret service police, marking By the main entrance is a
M8, M10.
the start of the Communist place of remembrance for the
regime’s demise. Today, the victims of the Holocaust, with The extensive park complex
square is surrounded by plaques bearing the names of of Friedrichshain, with its
beautiful restored buildings, the concentration camps. picturesque nooks and crannies,
housing many sidewalk Buried here are renowned was one of Berlin’s first public
restaurants, cafés and quaint figures from Berlin’s Jewish parks. It was laid out in the
little shops. Only a few steps cultural and commercial past. 1840s on the basis of a design
away is Kollwitzplatz (see p107), Among others here rest the by landscape architect Peter
a welcoming, leafy square with publisher Samuel Fischer Joseph Lenné, with the idea
an atmosphere reminiscent of and the restaurateur of creating an alternative
Paris. Nearby Kollwitzstrasse is Berthold Kempinski. Tiergarten for the inhabitants of
home to an organic farmers’ Some tombstones are out- the eastern districts of the city.
market on Saturdays. standing works of art, such as The greatest attraction of the
that of the Panowsky park is the Fountain of Fairy
family, designed by Tales – Märchenbrunnen by
Ludwig Hoffmann, or Ludwig Hoffmann, built in
the Cubist tombstone of 1902–1913. It is a spectacular
Albert Mendel, designed feature, created in a Neo-
by Walter Gropius. Some Baroque style with fountain
family graves are pools made from Tivoli stone,
adorned with temple- decorated with small statues of
like structures. The Nazis turtles and other animals. The
left this burial ground fountain is surrounded by well-
largely unharmed. known characters from the fairy
In 1999 the cemetery tales by the Brothers Grimm.
was desecrated in an act The park’s frequent redesigns
of anti-Semitic vandal- included, during World War II,
ism. Over 100 head- the construction of two
stones were kicked over large bunkers. After the war
and some were smeared the site was covered with a
with swastikas. mound of earth.
Still in use today, most Between the years 1969 and
of the new graves belong 1973, a sports and games area
to Jewish immigrants was established in the park,
from the former Soviet although there is still plenty of
Union, who outnumber room for leisurely strolls. For the
the German-born Jews adventurous, there is a chall-
Entrance to the red-brick Gethsemanekirche in Berlin. enging outdoor climbing wall.
dreaded security service of the

GDR. The custody building was
part of a huge complex built
in 1938. In May 1945 the
occupying Russian authorities
created a special transit camp
here, in which they interned
war criminals subsequently
transported to Siberia. Shortly
thereafter they started to bring
anyone under political suspicion
to the camp. During this time
more than 20,000 people
passed through here.
From 1946 this group of
In the background, the silvery dome of the Zeiss-Grossplanetarium buildings was refashioned into
the custody area for the KGB
5 Zeiss- mostly 20-somethings looking (Soviet secret service), and in
Grossplanetarium for a special bargain from
Berlin, be it junk or vintage.
1951 it was given over for the
use of the Stasi.
Prenzlauer Allee 80 (Ernst-Thälmann- Vegan burgers and cold beers During a visit you can see
Park). Tel 42 18 450 (reservations). complete the experience, prisoners’ cells and interro-
 Prenzlauer Allee, then @ 156. v which can be a welcome treat gation rooms. Housed in the
M2. Open Tue–Fri 9:30am–8pm, Sat & after seeing the haunting Wall cellars was the “submarine” –
Sun 2–8pm. Closed Mon. 8
Memorial nearby (see p113). a series of cells for the most
The Mauerweg, a shared “dangerous” suspects.
The silvery dome visible from walking and bicycle path,
afar is the huge planetarium, follows the path of the old
built in the grounds of a park Wall right across Mauerpark. 8 Karl-Marx-Allee
dedicated to the memory of the Map 10 F3.  Strausberger Platz,
inter-war communist leader
7 Gedenkstätte Frankfurter Tor or Weberwiese.
Ernst Thälmann, who died at v M10.
Buchenwald concentration Berlin-Hohen-
camp. The foyer houses an schönhausen The section of Karl-Marx-Allee
exhibition of optical equipment between Strausberger Platz and
and various accessories Genslerstrasse 13a. Tel 9860 82 30. Frankfurter Tor is effectively a
 &  Lichtenberg, then @ 256 to
produced by the renowned huge open-air museum of
Liebenwalderstrasse/Genslerstrasse.
factory of Carl-Zeiss-Jena. Socialist Realist architecture.
v 16 to Genslerstrasse, M5 to
Freienwalder, M6. Open 9am–6pm
The route leading east to Poland
daily. 8 (in German) 11am, 1pm & and Moscow was named
6 Mauerpark 3pm Mon–Fri, every hour 10am– Stalinallee in 1949 and chosen
4pm Sat, Sun & hols. In English: as the site for the construction
Mauerpark, Gleimstrasse.  Bernauer
2:30pm daily. showpiece of the new German
Strasse, Eberswalder Strasse. v M10.
Flea market: Open 10am-6pm Sun, Democratic Republic. The
Bernauer Strasse. This museum was established avenue was widened to 90 m
in 1995 in the former custody (300 ft) and, in the course of the
Mauerpark is a largely treeless building of the Stasi – the next 10 years, huge residential
expanse of lawn, one of the
very few extended green
spaces in Prenzlauer Berg and
a magnet for young locals and
tourists alike. Although a little
claustrophobic on warm days,
it is a great spot for people-
watching. On Sundays, aspiring
pop stars can attempt karaoke
at the amphitheatre and
perform to a packed audience.
Children love the park and an
artificial rock can be climbed
under professional supervision.
The giant eclectic flea market
held at weekends next to the
park attracts huge crowds of Façade of Gedenkstätte Berlin-Hohenschönhausen
tower blocks and a row of shops

were built on it. The designers,
led by architect Hermann
Henselmann, followed a style
known in the Soviet Union as
“pastry chef”, which was
“nationalistic in form but
socialist in content”, and linked
the whole work to Berlin’s own
traditions. Hence there are
motifs taken from famous Berlin
architects Schinkel and Gontard,
as well as from the renowned
Meissen porcelain.
The buildings on this street,
renamed Karl-Marx-Allee in
1961, are now considered Exterior of the Stasi-Museum – headquarters of the secret service
historic monuments. The
buildings have been cleaned up near the Oberbaumbrücke. The q Forschungs-
and the crumbling details are
gradually being restored.
museum features some 100
screens offering an audiovisual
und Gedenkstätte
The Eastern end of Karl-Marx- history of the Wall, including Normannenstrasse
Allee continues as Frankfurter documentary footage and (Stasi-Museum)
Allee. Its shabby sidestreets moving personal testimonies. Ruschestrasse 103 (Haus 1). Tel 553
have yet to be gentrified, 68 54.  Magdalenenstrasse.
unlike the Prenzlauer Berg or Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, noon–6pm
Kreuzberg districts. Street art is 0 Oberbaumbrücke Sat & Sun. & ∑ stasimusem.de
everywhere and many buildings  &  Warschauer Strasse. 
are former squats, but the Schlesisches Tor. @ 347. v M10. Under the German Democratic
atmosphere here is vibrant and Republic, this huge complex
relaxed. There is a young feel to This pretty bridge crossing the of buildings at Ruschestrasse
the area, as most residents are Spree river was built from 1894 housed the Ministry of the
in their mid-twenties, drawn to to 1896 to a design by Otto Interior and the infamous
the alternative cafés and Stahn. It is made from reinforced Stasi (GDR secret service)
happening subculture bars. concrete, but the arches are headquarters. The Stasi’s
covered with red brick. The “achievements” in infiltrating its
central arch is marked by a pair own community were without
of crenellated Neo-Gothic towers. equal in the Eastern bloc.
The most decorative element of Since 1990 one of the
the bridge, a Neo-Gothic arcade, buildings has housed a
supports a line of the U-Bahn. museum that describes the
The bridge was not open to organizational structure, history
traffic for 12 or so years prior to and ideology of the Stasi. It
reunification, as it linked districts includes photographs and
Fragment of Socialist Realist decoration from opposing sides of the Berlin documents depicting the
from Karl-Marx-Allee Wall. Only pedestrians with the Stasi’s activities. The breakup of
relevant documents were able the Stasi is covered, as well as
to use this bridge. After reunif- an overview of subsequent
9 East Side Gallery ication and renovation, it was events leading up to the
returned to full working order. reunion of Germany.
Mühlenstrasse.  &  Warschauer
A model of the headquarters
Strasse.  Ostbahnhof. @ 140, 240.
v M10.
is on display, as well as equip-
ment used for bugging and
Since 1990, this 1,300-m spying on citizens. You can also
(1-mile) section of the Berlin walk around the office of the
Wall along Mühlenstrasse, infamous Stasi chief Erich
between Ostbahnhof and Mielke, the commander of
Oberbaumbrücke, has been Ministry for State Security.
known as the East Side Gallery. A Big Brother-like figure,
A huge collection of graffiti is Mielke’s legacy of suffering
on display here, the work of still lives on in the memory of
118 different artists. It also millions of German citizens. The
includes the Wall Museum, The picturesque Neo-Gothic archway interior is just as it was when
housed in a former warehouse of Oberbaumbrücke the Stasi used the complex.
Northwest Berlin answer to this problem. He

built three of these complexes,
A visit to this part of the city provides a chance to see the the most famous being in
grandeur of the Olympiastadion, which was inspired by the Marseilles. For his Berlin design,
monumental architecture of ancient Rome. Nearby stands the Le Corbusier wanted to build
over 500 two-storey apartments
monolithic Le Corbusier Haus, once regarded as the model for
with integral services, such
future housing. The historic town of Spandau has some pretty as a post office, shops, a
medieval streets and a well-preserved Renaissance citadel. sports hall and nursery school.
Another attraction is the Messegelände, home of renowned The structure fell short of
trade fairs, and crowned by the Funkturm radio tower. Le Corbusier’s aspirations as
financial pressure meant the
estate lacked some service
elements; in addition, structural
alterations changed the
building’s proportions from
the original plans. Nevertheless,
the monolithic building was
a milestone for West Berlin’s
post-war architecture. For some,
it has always remained the
“Wohnmaschine” (dwelling
machine) and they criticize the
jail-like hallways, called “streets”
Le Corbusier Haus, by the renowned French architect by the architect. Others praise
the Bauhaus-inspired clear lines,
1 Le Corbusier Haus architect’s entry to the 1957 airy, light-filled apartments and
Flatowallee 16.  Olympiastadion. Internationale Bauaustellung the architectural departure from
@ 149, 218. 8 1st Sat of month (see p137). Following World War II, ornamental features.
in summer, register online. there was a housing shortage Functionality triumphs in this
∑ corbusierhaus-berlin.de all over Europe. Le Corbusier’s “vertical city” and the view over
innovative design for what he the Grunewald and to the TV
This apartment building by Le called a Unité d’Habitation was tower in the east is spectactular.
Corbusier, on a hill near the site his attempt to create fully self- Most of the 1,000 residents own
of the Olympiastadion, was the sufficient housing estates in apartments in the building.
24 km (15 miles)
Key Alt-Tegel
Sights at a Glance
Wittenau
City centre Tegel 1 Le Corbusier Haus
Tegel
Autobahn (motorway) 2 Spandau
Tegeler 3 Olympiastadion
Main road
See 4 Georg-Kolbe-Museum
Minor road
A1
5 Messegelände
11
Railway line
6 Haus des Rundfunks
7 Funkturm
8 AEG-Turbinenhalle
9 Gedenkstätte Plötzensee
Flughafen
Tegel
Wedding 0 Wedding
q IBA-Viertel in Tegel
w Villa Borsig
Siemensstadt e Schloss Tegel
Spandau
1
A11
r Sachsenhausen Museum
A100
Beusselstr.
Spandau
e
Spre
Mierendorffplatz
Olympia-Stadion
Theodor-Heuss- Charlottenburg
2/5 Westend Platz
Kaiserdamm
Olympiastadion
Messe Nord / ICC
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 2
Messe Sud Halensee

2 Spandau
Zitadelle Spandau Am Juliusturm 64.
Tel 354 94 40.  Zitadelle.
@ X33. Open 10am–5pm daily. &
∑ zitadelle-spandau.de
Spandau is one of the oldest

towns within the area of greater
Berlin, and it has managed to
retain its distinctive character.
Evidence of the earliest
settlement dates back to the
8th century, although the town
of Spandau was only granted
a charter in 1232. The area was
spared the worst of the World The Hohenzollern coat of arms above the main gate of the Spandau citadel
War II bombing, so there are still
some interesting sights to visit. square and a number of 12th century, but today only
The heart of the town is a original timber-framed houses; the 36-m (120-ft) Juliusturm
network of medieval streets in the north of Spandau (tower) remains. In 1560 the
with a picturesque market sections of town wall still stand, building of a fort was begun
dating from the 15th century. here, to a design by Francesco
In the centre of town is the Chiaramella da Gandino. It took
magnificent Gothic St-Nikolai- 30 years to bring to comp-
Kirche, dating from letion, however, and
the 15th century. most of the work
The church holds was supervised
many valuable by architect
ecclesiastical Rochus Guerrini,
furnishings, such Graf zu Lynar.
as a splendid Though the citadel
Renaissance stone had a jail, Rudolf
altar from the end of Hess, Spandau’s
the 16th century, a most infamous
Baroque pulpit from resident, was
Crowned black
around 1700 which incarcerated a
Prussian eagle
came from a royal palace short distance away
in Potsdam, a Gothic baptismal in a military prison after the
font and many plaques bearing 1946 Nuremberg trials. In 1987
epitaphs. A castle was first built the former deputy leader of
Interior of the Gothic St-Nikolai-Kirche on the site of the Zitadelle the Nazi party died, and the
in Spandau Spandau (citadel) in the prison was torn down.
Zitadelle Spandau
This magnificent and perfectly proportioned
16th-century citadel stands at the confluence
of the Spree and Havel rivers. Both the main
citadel and its various 19th-century additions
are still in excellent condition. The “Iron
Chancellor”, Otto von Bismarck (see p26),
moved the gold treasure of the Reichkriegs-
schatz (Imperial War Fund) here in 1874, where
it remained until 1919. The citadel now holds
museums of local history, and an observation
terrace on the crenellated Juliusturm (tower).
Key
1 Bastion Kronprinz 5 Bastion König
2 Bastion Brandenburg 6 Bastion Königin
3 Palace 7 Juliusturm
4 Main gate 8 Ravelin Schweinekopf

viewing platform on top

that visitors can reach via an
elevator. The bell inside
the tower is a replica of
the original, which was
damaged during World
War II. The original is
now on display outside
the Olympiastadion.
One side of the bell
displays an eagle holding
the five Olympic Rings
in its talons, while
the other shows the Fountain in the garden of the sculptor
Brandenburg Gate. The Georg Kolbe’s villa
Waldbühne is an open-
air amphitheatre that by the Expressionist painter
can accommodate up Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and the
to 22,000 people, with sculptor Wilhelm Lehmbruck.
a design that was In addition, since the 1970s,
inspired by the ancient the museum has expanded
theatre of Epidaurus its collection to include many
in Greece. more sculptures by Kolbe’s
Following a €236- peers, including important
million refurbishment, German artists August Gaul
including a seemingly and Ernst Barlach. Visiting here
free-floating roof, the is not only a rare chance to
stadium was reopened get to know Kolbe’s works but
in 2004 as a high-tech also an opportunity to see his
Two sculptures of athletes decorating the Olympiastadion arena. The Deutsches house and workshop, which
Sportmuseum next display the tools and various
3 Olympiastadion to the stadium hosts concerts devices for lifting a heavy or
and shows. large sculpture.
Olympischer Platz. Tel 30 68 81 00. 
&  Olympiastadion. @ 218, M49. Workshops with sculptors
Open 20 Mar–31 May: 9am–7pm are held here regularly and
daily; 1 Jun–15 Sep: 9am–8pm daily; 4 Georg-Kolbe- controversial exhibitions on
16 Sep–31 Oct: 9am–7pm daily; Museum challenging and topical subjects,
1 Nov–19 Mar: 9am–4pm daily. for example contemporary body
Sensburger Allee 25. Tel 304 21 44. image, draw large audiences.
The Olympiastadion, or  Heerstrasse. @ 218, X34, X49.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Reichssportfeld, as it was
originally known, was built for
∑ georg-kolbe-museum.de 5 Messegelände
the 1936 Olympic Games in Hammarskjöldplatz.  Messe Nord/
Berlin. The plans for it were One of the most renowned ICC.  Kaiserdamm. @ 104, 139,
conceived in 1933, when German sculptors, Georg Kolbe 349, X49.
Adolf Hitler came to power and (1877–1947) bequeathed the
ordered the construction of house in which he lived and The pavilions of the vast
a grandiose sporting complex. worked for almost his entire life exhibition and trade halls which
It was designed by Werner to the city of Berlin. Trained as lie south of Hammarskjöldplatz
March in the Nazi architectural a painter and draughtsman,
style and was inspired by the Kolbe became famous for his
architecture of ancient Rome. expressive works that came to
The Olympiastadion was symbolize the early freedoms
immortalized in the final of the Weimar era. His villa was
scenes of István Szabó’s classic built by the Swiss architect
film Mephisto. To the west lie Ernst Reutsch between 1928
the Maifeld and the Waldbühne. and 1929 in a Functionalist style.
To the north are swimming Extended a few years later by
pools and sports grounds. the architect Paul Lindner, it was
The Maifeld is an enormous given an old-fashioned styling
assembly ground surrounded with rooms that open onto a
by grandstands and fronted large hall. Kolbe also left the city
by the Glockenturm, a 77-m 180 of his sculptures and his art Visitors at the exhibition grounds of
(250-ft) bell tower with a collection, which includes works the Messegelände
cover more than 160,000 sq m

(1,700,000 sq ft). Many of the
international events organized
here, including the international
food and agricultural fair Grüne
Woche, are among the largest
events of their kind in Europe.
Even so, the exhibition areas
here are constantly enlarged
and updated.
The original exhibition halls
on this site were built before
World War I, but nothing of
these buildings remains. The
oldest part is the Funkturm and
the group of pavilions which
surround it. The huge building
at the front – Ehrenhalle – was
built in 1936 to a design by Night-time view of the Funkturm, Berlin's radio tower
Richard Ermisch, and is one of
the few surviving buildings in interior of startling beauty. The 8 AEG-
Berlin designed in a Fascist
architectural style.
huge edifice was constructed as
a radio station between 1929
Turbinenhalle
The straight motorway that and 1931 to a design by Hans Huttenstrasse 12–19.  Turmstrasse,
lies at the rear of the halls, in the Poelzig. The building has a then @ M27.
direction of Nikolassee, is the triangular shape, with three
famous Avus, the first German studio wings radiating from This building is one of the most
Autobahn, built in 1921. It was the central five-storey hall. The important textbook examples
adapted for motor racing and impressive Art Deco interiors, of modern architecture dating
became Germany’s first car- which are spectacularly lit from the beginning of the 20th
racing track. It was here that the from above, are enhanced century. It was commissioned
world speed record was broken by geometrically patterned by the electronics company AEG
before World War II. Now it forms rows of balconies and large, in 1909 and designed by Peter
part of the Autobahn system. pendulous, octagonal lamps. Behrens in conjunction with Karl
They represent one of the finest Bernhardt. While former Berlin's
architectural achievements of industrial buildings were mostly
this era in Berlin. red-brick and fortress-like, the
From the studio concert hall, Turbinenhalle was among
concerts are often broadcast the earliest structures not
on radio RBB (Rundfunk to incorporate any element,
Berlin-Brandenburg). decorative or otherwise, that
reflected previous architectural
styles. A huge hangar of a
7 Funkturm building, it has enormous
Hammarskjöldplatz. Tel 30 38 19 05.
windows and stretches 123 m
 Messe Nord/ICC.  Kaiserdamm.
(400 ft) down Berlichingenstrasse.
@ 104, 218, 349, X34. Observation The principal design imperative
Terrace: Open 10am– 8pm Mon, for this structure was to maintain
10am–11pm Tue–Sun (may vary a streamlined profile, while
due to weather). making no effort to disguise the
materials used in its construction.
This radio tower, which resembles
Clean, geometric shapes in the Art Deco Paris’s Eiffel tower, has become
lobby, Haus des Rundfunks one of Berlin’s most recognizable
landmarks. Built in 1924 to a
6 Haus des design by Heinrich Straumer,
Rundfunks it rises 150 m (500 ft) into the
air. It now operates as both an
Masurenallee 8–14.  Messe Nord/ air-traffic control tower and a
ICC.  Theodor-Heuss-Platz. radio mast. Visitors can enjoy
@ 104, 218, X34, X49. views on the observation
terrace at 125 m (400 ft), or
This building’s depressing, flat, dine at the Funkturm’s lofty The impressive and modern
brick-covered façade hides an restaurant at 55 m (180 ft). AEG-Turbinenhalle
9 Gedenkstätte
Plötzensee
Plotzensee Memorial
Hüttigpfad. Tel 344 32 26.
 Beuselstrasse, then @ 123.
Open Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb:
9am–4pm. ∑ gedenkstaette-
ploetzensee.de
A narrow street leads from

Saatwinkler Damm to the site
where nearly 2,500 people
convicted of crimes against the
Third Reich were hanged. The
Gedenkstätte Plötzensee is a
simple memorial in a brick hut,
which still has the iron hooks
from which the victims were
suspended. The main figures in
the unsuccessful assassination
attempt against Hitler, on
20 July 1944, were executed
in Bendlerblock (see p131),
although the remainder of the
conspirators were killed here.
Count Helmut James von The Villa Borsig façade viewed from the garden
Moltke, one of the leaders of the
German resistance movement, lovers of modern, and par- w Villa Borsig
was also executed here. The ticularly Post-Modern, archi-
Reiherwerder.  Alt Tegel. @ 133,
count organized the Kreisauer tecture. This complex developed
222, 224, then a 15-minute walk.
Kreis – a political movement out of the IBA (Internationale
which gathered together and Baustellung) building exhibition This villa sits on a peninsula
united German opposition to in 1987. Over 30 architects which cuts into the Tegeler
Hitler and the Third Reich. were involved in the project, See and is reminiscent of
although the main designers Schloss Sanssouci in Potsdam.
were Charles Moore, John Ruble It was built much later, however,
0 Wedding and Buzz Yudell. Within this between 1911 and 1913. It was
Wedding.  &  Wedding,
complex stands the Humboldt- designed by Alfred Salinger and
Gesundbrunnen.  Seestrasse, Bibliothek, which draws on Eugen Schmohl for the Borsig
Osloer Strasse. @ 133, 222, 224, then Neo-Classical themes. In 1997 family, one of the wealthiest
a 15-minute walk. a monument was established industrialist families in Berlin.
in front of this library to the This villa is particularly
Wedding, part of the Mitte eminent scientists Wilhelm and picturesque when observed
district, is an interesting, Alexander von Humboldt . from the lake, so it is worth
up-and-coming area. Artists Running the length of looking out for it while cruising
are taking over abandoned Am Tegeler Hafen street is a in a boat.
industrial buildings, a lively large housing estate where
theatre and gallery scene is each unit has been designed
developing, and the area is by a different architect. For e Schloss Tegel
becoming more attractive to instance, at No. 8, the house
Adelheidallee 19–21. Tel 886 71 50.
renters and buyers. Volkspark by Stanley Tigerman recalls
 Alt Tegel. @ 133, 222.
Rehberge, a beautiful park, a style popular in Hanseatic Open (tours only) May–Sep: 10am,
is a hidden gem. architecture, while the red 11am, 3pm & 4pm Mon.
house at No. 10, designed by
Paolo Portoghesi, looks as Schloss Tegel is one of the
q IBA-Viertel though it has been cracked most interesting palace
in Tegel lengthwise in two. complexes in Berlin. In the
To the north, the IBA-Viertel 16th century there was already
Karolinenstrasse & Am Tegeler Hafen. estate borders another modern a manor house on this site,
 Alt Tegel.
building, the Hotel Sorat, which in the second half of the
carefully built around the 17th century was rebuilt into a
The development around the remaining section of an old hunting lodge for the Elector
southern edge of the port of windmill that was once part Friedrich Wilhelm. In 1766 the
Tegel is an essential stop for of the Humboldt estate. ownership of the property
prisoners were released after

demonstrating that they had
learned how to be “good
German citizens”. By 1939,
however, those that were
taken to the camp very rarely
returned. It is estimated
that over 30,000 people
died in the camp, killed by
hunger, disease or mass
extermination.
Sachsenhausen is now a
memorial and museum. Each
area of the camp hosts an
The elegant Neo-Classical façade of Schloss Tegel exhibit – for example, the one
in the former infirmary focuses
passed to the Humboldt when the Soviet Army entered on medicine and racism under
family, and, between the Sachsenhausen, there were the Nazi regime. Other exhibits
years 1820 and 1824, Karl only 3,000 inmates in the illustrate the daily life of the
Friedrich Schinkel thoroughly camp, mostly women and prisoners and look at how
rebuilt the palace, giving it its sick people. Sachsenhausen worked as a
current style. The iron gate at the entrance Soviet Special Camp between
There are tiled bas-reliefs bears a sign that reads “Arbeit 1945 and 1950, when it housed
decorating the elevations on macht frei” (“Work will set you Nazi functionaries and so-called
the top floor of the towers. free”), and indeed many early political undesirables.
These were designed by
Christian Daniel Rauch and
depict the ancient wind gods.
Some of Schinkel’s marvellous
interiors have survived, along
with several items from what
was once a large collection of
antique sculptures. The palace
is still privately owned by
descendants of the Humboldt
family, but guided tours are
offered when the palace is
open. It is also worth visiting
the park. On its western limits
lies the Humboldt family tomb,
designed by Schinkel and
decorated with a copy of a
splendid sculpture by Bertel Former entrance to the Sachsenhausen prison camp
Thorwaldsen; the original piece
stands inside the palace.
Karl Friedrich Schinkel (1781–1841)
Schinkel was one of the most renowned German architects; even
rSachsenhausen today his work forms an essential element of the architectural
Museum landscape of Berlin. He graduated from the Berlin Bauakademie,
and for many years held a high-profile position in the Prussian
Strasse der Nationen 22, Oranienburg. Building Ministry. He was equally skilled in
Tel 03301/2000.  Oranienburg, producing both Neo-Classical and Neo-
then @ 804, 821. Open mid-Mar– Gothic designs. In Berlin and Potsdam
mid-Oct: 8:30am–6pm daily; mid- he designed several dozen buildings –
Oct–mid-Mar: 8:30am–4:30pm daily; palaces, civic buildings and churches,
museum closed Mon. = many of which still stand today. He also
∑ stiftung-bg.de excelled at painting and even designed
scenery for the opera house on Unter den
Built by the Nazis in 1936,
Linden, among others. You can admire his
the concentration camp at paintings in the Galerie der Romantik in
Sachsenhausen was liberated Schloss Charlottenburg. Schinkel’s
in 1945 by the Russians. Up to creativity had a truly enormous
200,000 people were incar- influence on the next generation
cerated in this camp during its of architects working in Prussia.
nine-year existence. However,
Southeast Berlin
An expedition to Berlin’s furthest corners provides an
opportunity to visit the building from which Germany
surrendered in World War II, now home to the Deutsche-
Russisches Museum. Alternatively, you could stroll through
the zoological garden in the park at the Baroque Schloss
Friedrichsfelde or enjoy a leisurely break in Köpenick,
which has retained the atmosphere of a small town.
1 Treptower Park statues of Red Army soldiers. This

leads to the mausoleum, topped
Archenhold-Sternwarte, Alt-Treptow 1.
by an 11-m- (35-ft-) high figure Gigantic wreath commemorating the
 Treptower Park. @ 166, 265.
Archenhold Sternwarte: Tel 536 06 37 of a soldier rescuing a child and Red Army in Treptower Park
19. Open 2–4:30pm Wed–Sun. 8 resting his mighty sword on a
8pm Thu, 3pm Sat & Sun. smashed swastika. The whole
scheme was the work of 2 Tierpark & Schloss
The vast park in Treptow was architect Jakow Biełopolski and Friedrichsfelde
laid out in the 1860s on the sculptor Jewgien Wuczeticz.
Am Tierpark 125.  Tierpark. @ 194,
initiative and design of Johann In the furthest section of the
296, 396. v 27, 37, M17. Schloss:
Gustav Meyer. In 1919 it was park it is worth going to see
Tel 51 53 10. Open Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun
where revolutionaries Karl the astronomical observatory, & hols. Tierpark: Tel 51 53 10. Open
Liebknecht, Wilhelm Pieck and Archenhold Sternwarte, built for 1 Jan–16 Mar: 9am–5pm; 17 Mar–
Rosa Luxemburg assembled a a decorative arts exhibition held 24 May: 9am–6pm; 25 May–9 Sep:
150,000-strong group of here in 1896. Given a permanent 9am– 7pm; 10 Sep–21 Oct: 9am–6pm;
striking workers. site here in 1909, the observatory 22 Oct–31 Dec: 9am–5pm. &
The park, however, is best was used by Albert Einstein for a
known for the colossal monu- lecture on the Theory of Relativity This charming Baroque palace
ment to the Red Army. Built in 1915. It is also home to the was built for the Dutchman
between 1946 and 1949, longest refracting telescope in Benjamin von Raule around 1695,
it stands on the grave of 5,000 the world (21 m, or 70 ft) and a to a design by Johann Arnold
Soviet soldiers killed in the battle small planetarium. Nering. Under successive owners,
for Berlin in 1945. The gateway Beyond Treptower Park lies it underwent major renovations.
is marked by a vast granite another park, Plänterwald, while It was redesigned in 1719 by
sculpture of a grieving Russian the Spree river provides an ideal Martin Heinrich Böhme, and
Motherland surrounded by place for a stroll or boat ride. again in 1786, by Peter Biron.
96a
1/5
Lichtenberg Sights at a Glance
158
1 Treptower Park
Friedrichshain Lichtenberg 1/5 2 Tierpark & Schloss
Rummelsburg Friedrichsfelde
Ostkreuz 3 Deutsch-Russisches Museum
Friedrichsfelde
(Berlin-Karlshorst)
Tierpark 4 Köpenick
Treptower Park
5 Schloss Britz
Key
Treptow Karlshorst Autobahn (motorway)
Planterwald Karlshorst Main road
96
Neukölln a Minor road
Sp
Railway line
ree
0 kilometres 2
Baumschulenweg
0 miles 2
Oberschoneweide
Köpenick
Britz Johannisthal
Parchimer Allee Spindlersfeld

A1 Köpenick
13

It was this renovation which

gave the residence its modern-
day appearance.
The well-balanced structure,
typical of the style during the
transition from Baroque to
Neo-Classical, was extensively
restored in the 1970s. It now
houses a museum of interiors,
and is chiefly furnished with
18th- and 19th-century pieces.
The palace’s park was remodelled The façade of Schloss Friedrichsfelde
to become the zoological
garden of East Berlin in 1957. Köpenick belonged to the Johann Arnold Nering, but until
Margrave of Brandenburg, also 1693 only part of the extension
an Ascanian. In about 1240 a was completed: the chapel,
3 Deutsch- castle was built, around which a entrance gate and a small
Russisches Museum town began to evolve, though
over the years it lost out in
gallery wing.
In 2004 the Kunstgewerbe-
(Berlin-Karlshorst) importance to Berlin. Craftsmen museum (see pp122–5) opened
Zwieseler Strasse 4/Rheinsteinstrasse settled here, and after 1685 a a series of Renaissance and
Tel 50 15 08 10.  Karlshorst. v 27, large colony of Huguenots Baroque rooms in the Köpenick
37, M17. @ 296. Open 10am–6pm followed suit. palace. This collection also
Tue–Sun. In the 19th century Köpenick includes some examples of
recreated itself as an industrial magnificent furniture.
This building was erected in town. Despite wartime devast-
the 1930s as the casino of ation, it has retained its historic
the Wehrmacht (armed services character. There are no longer 5 Schloss Britz
of the Third Reich). It was here any 13th-century churches;
Alt-Britz 73. Tel 60 97 92 30.
on the night of 8 May 1945 nevertheless, it is worth strolling
 Parchimer Allee. @ 181, M44,
that Hitler’s successor around the old town. By the old M46. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Grossadmiral Karl Dönitz, market square and in nearby ∑ schlossbritz.de
Field Marshal Wilhelm Keitel, streets, such as Alt Köpenick
Admiral Hans Georg von and Grünstrasse, modest houses Originally a small manor house
Friedeburg and General have survived which recall the built in 1706 for Sigismund von
Hans-Jürgen Stumpff signed 18th century, next to buildings Erlach, Schloss Britz was exten-
the unconditional surrender from the end of the 19th century. ded to its current size between
of Germany’s armed forces. At Alt Köpenick No. 21 is a vast 1880 and 1883 to a design by
You can visit the renowned brick town hall built in the style Carl Busse. It is a one-storey
hall in which the surrender of the Brandenburg Neo- palace with a modest Neo-
was signed, the office of Renaissance between the years Classical aspect adorned with
Marshal Zhukov, and see an 1901 and 1904 by Hans Schütte Baroque statues at the front and
exhibition documenting the and Hugo Kinzer. It was here on a tower on the garden side. As
history of World War II. 16 October 1906 that a famous well as housing a museum, the
swindle took place. Wilhelm building is often used as a venue
Voigt dressed himself in a for concerts and exhibitions. The
4 Köpenick Prussian officer’s uniform and palace displays furnishings from
proceeded to arrest the mayor the Gründerzeit – the years after
Kunstgewerbemuseum: Schlossinsel
1. Tel 266 42 42 42.  Spindlersfeld,
and then fraudulently empty the founding of the German
then @ 167, or  Köpenick, then everything from the city treasury. Empire in 1871. The 19th-century
@ 164. v 60, 61, 62, 67, 68. This incident inspired a comedy, interiors are excellent, but it is
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. The Captain from Köpenick by Carl also worth strolling through
Zuckmayer, which is still popular. the park, where there is a bust
Köpenick is much older than Köpenick’s greatest attraction of one of the former owners,
Berlin. In the 9th century AD this is a magnificent palace on the Rüdiger von Ilgen, which once
island contained a fortified island in the southern part of stood in the Tiergarten.
settlement called Kopanica. It town. It was built between Next to the palace is a housing
was inhabited by Slavs from the 1677 and 1681 for the heir to estate called Hufeisensiedlung
Łaba river region, which in the the throne, Friedrich (later King (Horseshoe Colony), built in the
12th century was ruled by Duke Friedrich I), to a design by the late 1920s to a design by Bruno
Jaksa, who was waging a war Dutch architect Rutger van Taut and Bruno Schneidereit.
against the Ascanian Albrecht Langfeld. The three-storey The architects’ aim was to
the Bear over Brandenburg (see Baroque building that resulted create spacious and affordable
p21). From the late 12th century was extended to a design by housing for Berliners.
Zehlendorf and Dahlem lie the foundation’s head-

quarters, established in the
With nearly half of Zehlendorf covered by forests, lakes and former studio of the sculptor
rivers, the region has a rustic, quiet atmosphere. One of the Bernhard Heiliger. The garden,
more interesting suburbs here is Dahlem, a settlement first which borders the Brücke-
Museum, has a display of his
mentioned in 1275. Retaining its Gothic parish church and
metal sculptures.
its manor house, Dahlem was transformed into an affluent,
tranquil city suburb with grand villas and museums, designed
by Bruno Paul, at the beginning of the 20th century. The 2 St-Annen-Kirche
district was confirmed as a major cultural and educational Königin-Luise-Strasse 55. Tel 841
centre after World War II with the establishment of the Freie 70 50.  Dahlem Dorf. @ 110, X11,
Universität and the completion of the museum complex. X83. Open 11am–1pm Sat & Sun.
At the centre of a small leafy

cemetery stands the Gothic
A1
Wilmersdorf 14th-century St-Annen-Kirche.

00
Grunewald Kleistpark
The church was built initially

Grunewald
15
Schöneberg with a plain roof. The chancel

A1
Bundesplatz
Schmargendorf Schöneberg was completed in the 15th
Friedenau century, the vaulting in the
17th century and the tower
was added in the 18th century.
Inside the church, 14th-
Rathaus Steglitz Steglitz century wall paintings depict
Dahlem
Dorf
scenes from the life of St Anna,
Freie Dahlem Sights at a Glance alongside items of ecclesiastical
Universität furnishings. These include a
Onkel Botanischer 1 Brücke-Museum
Toms Hütte Garten 15th-century painting called
2 St-Annen-Kirche
The Crucifixion and 11 late
Zehlendorf 1 3 Domäne Dahlem
Lichterfelde Gothic figures of saints.
4 Museum Europäischer
The cemetery, which dates back
Zehlendorf
Kulturen to the 13th century, is also worth
5 Kunsthaus Dahlem exploring. It has a 1996 monument
Key 6 Onkel-Tom-Siedlung dedicated to the victims of Nazi
City centre 7 Alliierten-museum tyranny. During the war, the
8 Freie Universität congregation’s pastor was Martin
Autobahn (motorway)
9 Botanischer Garten Niemöller, a founder of the
Main road
0 Wrangel-Schlösschen Confessing Church, a Protestant
Minor road movement that resisted the
q Friedhof Stuben-
Railway line rauchstrasse Nazification of churches. He
w Rathaus Schöneberg was sent to a concentration
0 kilometres 2
e Königskolonnaden camp in 1938 though survived
0 miles 2
(Kleistkolonnaden) imprisonment.
1 Brücke-Museum members of this group included

Karl Schmidt-Rottluff, Emil Nolde,
Bussardsteig 9. Tel 831 20 29.
Max Pechstein, Ernst Ludwig
@ 115. Open 11am–5pm Wed–Mon.
Kirchner and Erich Heckel. The
One of the more interesting collection is based on almost
museums dedicated to 80 works by Schmidt-Rottluff
20th-century art is hidden away bequeathed to the town in 1964.
on a leafy, tranquil street lined The collection quickly grew,
with picturesque villas. The thanks to donations and
elegant Functionalist building acquisitions. In addition to
was built by Werner Düttmann displaying other works of art
in 1966–7. The museum contemporary to Die Brücke
houses a collection of German (which was disbanded in 1913),
Expressionist painting linked there are also some paintings
to the artistic group known as from the later creative periods of
Die Brücke, which originated in these artists, as well as works of
Dresden in 1905 and was based other closely associated artists. Gothic St-Annen-Kirche, dating
in Berlin from 1910. The Nearby, at Käuzchensteig No. 8, back to the 14th century
European folk art and culture, on grounds provided by

and documents the daily life the government.
of its inhabitants. It hosts In 1949, renowned sculptor
long-running but temporary Bernhard Heiliger, who was a
exhibitions, often in conjunction student of Breker, moved into
with museums from other the east wing of the building
European countries. Among and lived and worked in the
the exhibits on display are complex until his death in
earthenware items, costumes, 1995. In the garden adjacent
jewellery, toys and tools. to the Kunsthaus, more than
The site of the museum has 20 of his sculptures are
played a significant exhibited.
role in Berlin’s During Heiliger’s
cultural history time at the site,
since the first different parts of the
The combined museum and working farm museums were complex were leased
of Domäne Dahlem built in Dahlem in to other prominent
the early 20th artists from around
3 Domäne Dahlem century. However, East Prussian carpet from the the world.
Dahlem City Farm the other two Museum Europäischer Kulturen Since 2015, the
museums at this building has served
Königin-Luise-Str. 49. Tel 66 63 000.
site – the Museum für Asiatische as an exhibition space for
 Dahlem Dorf. @ 110, X11, X83.
Kunst (Museum of Asian Art) postwar German Modernist art
Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon
(museum: Sat & Sun only due to
and the Ethnologisches from both East and West
restoration). & (museum only). Museum (Museum of Germany, and also promotes
∑ domaene-dahlem.de Ethnology) – will be closing contemporary art.
and their collections moved
Domäne Dahlem, a manor to the Humboldt Forum
house and farming estate, is a currently under construction on
rare oasis of country life in the Museum Island (see pp73–87).
Berlin suburbs. The Baroque
house was built for Cuno
Johann von Wilmersdorff 5 Kunsthaus
around 1680 and still retains its
original character. Part of the Dahlem
Stadtmuseum Berlin (Museum Käuzchensteig 8. Tel 83 22 72 58.
of the City of Berlin), the manor @ 115, X10. Open 11am–5pm Wed–
house boasts period interiors, Mon. ∑ kunsthaus-dahlem.de
while the 19th-century farm
buildings hold a collection of This exhibition venue was built
agricultural tools and a large and between 1939 and 1942 as a
varied collection of beehives. studio for the sculptor Arno
Domäne Dahlem is a farm Breker, one of the most prolific Postwar Modernist art exhibits at
and a museum with a garden, sculptors of the Third Reich, the Kunsthaus Dahlem
workshops and farm animals.
Festivals and markets held here
demonstrate rural crafts and
Country Churches
skills. There is an organic food The establishment of Greater Berlin in 1920 swallowed up nearly
market on Saturday mornings. 60 villages, some of which were older than the city itself. Now they
have evolved into large residential estates, and many of the parish
churches (more than 50) have survived. The most treasured, dating
4 Museum from the 13th century, can be seen in the south of Berlin, for instance
in Britz by Backbergstrasse, Buckow (Alt-Buckow) or in Mariendorf
Europäischer (Alt Mariendorf ). The oldest of the churches, dating from the
Kulturen 13th century, has survived in Marienfelde (Alt Marienfelde).
Lansstrasse 8/ Arnimallee 25. Tel 266
42 42 42.  Dahlem Dorf. @ 110,
X11, X83. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri,
11am–6pm Sat & Sun. Closed Mon,
24 & 31 Dec. &
The Museum Europäischer

Kulturen is an ethnographic St Anna’s in Dahlem Wittenau Marienfelde
museum that specializes in
Humanities and Social Science

building, designed by Norman
Foster and finished in 2005. It has
a glass-domed centrepiece,
housing the Philological Library,
which is nicknamed the “Berlin
Brain” due to its cranial shape.
9 Botanischer
Garten
Botanical Garden
Henry-Ford-Bau, the rector’s office and library at the Freie Universität
Unter den Eichen 5–10 & Königin-
6 Onkel-Tom- 8 Freie Universität Luise-Strasse 6–8. Tel 83 85 01 00.
 Dahlem-Dorf.  Botanischer
Siedlung Henry-Ford-Bau Garystrasse 35–39. Garten. @ M48, X83. Open daily;
Riemeister Strasse/Argentinische Tel 83 85 11 11.  Thielplatz. @ 110. Nov–Jan: 9am–4pm; Feb: 9am–5pm;
∑ fu-berlin.de Mar & Oct: 9am–6pm; Apr & Aug:
Allee.  Onkel-Toms-Hütte.
9am–8pm; May–Jul: 9am–9pm;
The Free University was
Sep: 9am–7pm. Museum:
This housing estate, known as established on 4 December Open 10am–6pm daily.
“Uncle Tom’s Estate”, represents 1948 on the initiative of a group ∑ botanischer-garten-berlin.de
one of the most interesting urban of academics and activists, led
architectural achievements of the by Ernst Reuter. This was a This park is one of the most
Weimar Republic. It was built reaction to the restrictions beautiful places in Berlin. It
from 1926 to 1932, to a design introduced at the Humboldt was created towards the end
by Bruno Taut, Hugo Häring and Universität in the Soviet sector of the 19th century and has a
Otto Rudolf Salvisberg. Their and further evidence of the romantic character with gentle
primary intention was to solve competition between the two hills and picturesque lakes.
the city’s housing shortage by halves of the city. The university Of particular interest is the
building large developments was initially located in rented 19th-century palm house,
that were both pleasant to live in buildings. It was only thanks to designed by Alfred Koerner.
and fairly inexpensive. This project the American Ford Foundation The greenhouses were built
in Zehlendorf was the realization that the Henry-Ford-Bau, between 1984 and 1987 to a
of the English concept of garden housing the rector’s office, design by Engelbert Kremser.
cities. The result is an enormous the auditorium and the library, The most popular plants are
housing estate comprising was built. Designed by Franz the exotic species such as
single- and multiple-family Heinrich Sobotka and Gustav the orchids and cacti.
houses. It is set in lush greenery Müller, and built from 1951 By the entrance on the
on the borders of Grunewald to 1954, the building is distin- Königin-Luise-Platz side is
and accommodates nearly guished by its fine proportions. the Botanisches Museum,
15,000 people. Another architectural high- home to an excellent collection
light can be found at the of plant specimens.
7 Alliierten-
museum
Clayallee 135. Tel 818 19 90. 
Zehlendorf, then @ 115.  Oskar-
Helene-Heim. Open 10am–6pm Thu–
Tue. 8 by appointment.
In the heart of the former

US military sector of Berlin
is the Allied Museum, which
combines exhibition space
with open-air grounds.
A fascinating exhibition
of everyday objects, military
memorabilia, photographs and
films explains life during the
Cold War and the story
of Berlin and its inhabitants
between 1945 and 1994. A tropical house in the beautifully cultivated Botanischer Garten
0 Wrangel- She sang only once more in to hear the young president say,
Schlösschen Berlin, giving a concert at the “Ich bin ein Berliner” – “I am a
Titania-Palast in 1960. Although Berliner” – intended as an
Schlossstrasse 48. Tel 902 99 39 24. she died in Paris, she was laid expression of solidarity from
 Rathaus Steglitz. @ M2, M48, M85. to rest in the city of her birth. the democratic world to a city
defending its right to freedom.
This compact Neo-Classical While Kennedy’s meaning
palace derives its name from was undoubtedly clear, pedants
Field Marshal Wrangel, the were quick to point out that,
building’s mid-19th-century strictly speaking, he actually
owner. However, the house said, “I am a small doughnut”.
was built much earlier, in 1804,
following a design by Heinrich
Gentz. The simplicity and e Königskolonna-
clarity of its details make
it a prime example of early
den (Kleistkolon-
Neo-Classical architecture. It naden)
currently houses the cultural Potsdamer Strasse Map 13 B4.
centre for the district of Steglitz.  Kleistpark. @ 106, 204, M46.
A short walk north of U-Bahn

Kleistpark, the unremarkable
architecture of Potsdamer
Strasse suddenly transforms
dramatically. Leading to the
park, the elegant sandstone
Rathaus Schöneberg – the site of President Königskolonnaden captivates
Kennedy’s speech the passer-by with its Baroque
ornamental sculptures. The
w Rathaus royal colonnade, designed by
Schöneberg Carl von Gontard and built
between 1777 and 1780, once
Schöneberg Town Hall
graced the route from Königs-
John-F-Kennedy-Platz 1.  Rathaus strasse to Alexanderplatz. In
Schöneberg. @ 104, M46. 1910, to protect it from traffic,
Wrangel-Schlösschen, a fine example it was moved to this new site.
of Neo-Classical architecture The gigantic building with a The huge Kammergericht at
tower is the Schöneberg town the far boundary of the park was
hall, built between 1911 and built between 1909 and 1913
q Friedhof Stuben-
1914. From 1948 to 1990 it to a design by Carl Vohl, Rudolf
rauchstrasse was used as the main town hall Mönnich and Paul Thömer.
Stuberauchstrasse Cemetery of West Berlin. It was here, on The site of the notorious Nazi
Stubenrauchstrasse 43–45/Südwest- 26 June 1963, that US President Volksgericht or “People’s Court”,
korso.  &  Bundesplatz. @ 248. John F Kennedy gave his it was also used to try members
famous speech. More than of the failed July 1944 bomb
This small cemetery in the 300,000 Berliners assembled plot against Hitler (see p131).
shadow of a motorway
achieved renown in 1993 as
the burial place of Marlene
Dietrich, who died on 6 May.
Born Maria Magdalena von
Losch in 1901, she grew up
at Leberstrasse No. 65 in
Schöneberg. For a few years
she struggled to make a
career as an actress, playing
small parts. In 1929 she was
discovered in Berlin by
Hollywood director Josef von
Sternberg, who was filming The
Blue Angel, based on Heinrich
Mann’s novel Professor Unrat.
The ensuing role of Lola took
Marlene to the height of fame. Elegant façade of Königskolonnaden
Wannsee and Havel 1929 and 1930 with the con-

struction of a complex of
Some of Berlin’s most affluent neighbourhoods are scattered changing rooms, shops and cafés
along the Wannsee lakeside and Havel shores, but above all on top of man-made terraces.
it is the natural beauty of the area that attracts Berliners and On sunny summer days,
sun-worshippers completely
visitors alike and makes it the city’s most popular recreation
cover the sandy shore, while the
spot. It is worth cycling or walking here (see pp210–13) to lake is filled with yachts and
enjoy the views of sailing boats on Havel and Wannsee, and to windsurfers. It is also quite
see stunning summerhouses and royal parks. The museum in pleasant to take a walk around
the Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz is poignant; the building was Schwanenwerder island. It has
originally where the Nazis made their most shocking decisions. many elegant villas, one of which,
Inselstrasse No. 24/26, was built
for Axel Springer, the German
newspaper publisher.
Sights at a Glance
1 Strandbad Wannsee
2 Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz 2 Haus der
BERLINER
3 Villenkolonie Alsen
FORST Wannsee-Konferenz
4 Grabstätte von Heinrich GRUNEWALD
Am Grossen Wannsee 56/58.
von Kleist
Tel 805 00 10.  Wannsee, then @
5 Museumsdorf Düppel
114. Open 10am–6pm daily.
6 Grunewaldturm
This is one of the most beautiful

of the luxury Alsen holiday villas,
15
Krumme Lanke
and yet the most abhorrent.
A1
Havel
Designed by Paul Baumgarten
Schlachtensee
Mexikoplatz between 1914 and 1915, it is in
1 the style of a small Neo-Baroque
Nikolassee
palace with an elegant portico.
Grosser In 1940 the villa was sold to the
Nikolassee
Wannsee Nazi SS. On 20 January 1942, a
Wannsee meeting took place between
Wannsee
1 Richard Heydrich and 14 other
officers from the secret service
Pohlesee and the SS, among them
Key Adolf Eichmann. It was then
Autobahn (motorway)
that the decision was taken
about “the final solution on
Main road
the question of Jews”. Their
0 kilometres 2 Minor road plans for the outright
0 miles 2 Railway line extermination of 11 million
Jews embraced the whole
of Europe, including Great
1 Strandbad one of the largest inland beaches Britain and neutral countries.
Wannsee in Europe – Strandbad Wannsee.
It has been in use since the
Since 1992 this has been
a museum and place of
Wannseebadweg 2s.  Nikolassee. beginning of the 20th century, remembrance. An exhibition
@ 218. and was developed between depicts the history of the
The vast picturesque lake of

Wannsee, situated on the edge
of Grunewald, is a principal
destination for Berliners who
are looking for recreation. Here
you can take part in water sports,
enjoy a lake cruise, bathe or
simply enjoy relaxing on the
shore. The most developed part
is the south-eastern corner of the
lake. Here, near S-Bahn Wannsee,
there are yachting marinas and
harbours, while further north is Boarding point for lake cruises on the Wannsee
on the site of a 13th-century

settlement, discovered in the
1940s. It is a living village
surrounded by still-cultivated
gardens and fields, where
traditional breeds of pigs and
sheep are raised in the sheds
and pigsties.
On Sundays the village puts
on displays of traditional crafts.
Here you can see how primitive
saucepans and tools were
fashioned; how wool was spun,
dyed and woven; and how
baskets were made.
The exterior of Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz 6 Grunewaldturm

Havelchaussee 61. @ 218.
Holocaust with some shocking 4 Grabstätte
documents and photographs
from the ghettos and exter-
von Heinrich The Neo-Gothic tower built on
a hill at the edge of the Havel
mination camps. For security von Kleist river is one of the most prom-
reasons, the gate to the villa is Grave of Heinrich von Kleist inent features of the area. This
always locked, and to enter the Bismarckstrasse (near No. 3). type of tower became popular
park you have to announce  Wannsee. @ 114, 316, 318. in Germany during the 19th
yourself through the intercom. century as a way of commem-
A narrow street running from orating important events or
Königstrasse at the viaduct of people. The Grunewaldturm
3 Villenkolonie the S-Bahn Wannsee leads to was built in 1899 on the centenary
Alsen the spot where the playwright of the birth of Wilhelm I. After
Am Grossen Wannsee.  Wannsee, Heinrich von Kleist committed 1871 he was the first Emperor
then @ 114. Max-Liebermann Villa: suicide. On 21 November 1811 of the Second Reich and the
Closed Tue. & 8 ∑ liebermann- he shot his companion Henriette tower was initially named
villa.de Vogel and then turned the pistol “Kaiser-Wilhelm-Turm”. The 56-m
on himself. They are both buried (185-ft) tower was designed by
This clutch of villas forms a here. A stone marks their grave, Franz Schwechten and is made
delightful holiday resort – the on which flowers are left by of red brick with plaster details.
oldest of its kind in Berlin. The well-wishers. The tower is made all the more
villas are thought to be the striking by the green background
most beautiful in the district, provided by the surrounding
not just because of their leafy trees.
picturesque lakeside location, Currently used as an
but also because of the quality observation tower, the view from
of their architecture. the top of this structure is well
Strolling along Am Grossen worth climbing the 204 steps for.
Wannsee, it is worth looking There is a popular restaurant in
at the villa at No. 39/41, known the base of the tower.
as Haus Springer. It was
designed by the architect Reconstructed medieval settlement at the
Alfred Messel in 1901 and is Museumsdorf Düppel
covered with shingles, a
reflection of contemporary 5 Museumsdorf
American designs.
Another must-see villa Düppel
stands at No. 42, designed Clauertstrasse 11. Tel 802 66 71.
by Paul Baumgarten in 1909 for  Mexikoplatz or  Krumme Lanke,
the painter Max Liebermann then @ 118, 622. Open late Mar–
(1845–1935). Liebermann spent early Oct: 3–7pm Thu, 10am–5pm Sat
many summers here painting in & Sun. & ∑ dueppel.de
the garden on the shores of
Wannsee. The villa is now a A visit here is like a trip back in
museum and houses around time. A reconstruction of a The impressive red-brick
40 of Liebermann’s paintings. medieval village has been made Neo-Gothic Grunewaldturm
Schloss Cecilienhof, scene of the Potsdam Conference
Greater
berlin
Potsdam 192–207
Three Guided Walks 208–215
G R E AT E R B E R L I N  193
POTSDAM
Potsdam is an independent city bordering wartime losses, Potsdam is one of the
Berlin. It is also the capital of Brandenburg, most interesting cities in Germany. Tourists
with almost 140,000 inhabitants. The first flock to see the royal Park Sanssouci and
historical reference to Potsdam dates from palaces such as the Marmorpalais and
AD 993. The town blossomed in the 1600s, Schloss Cecilienhof. It is also worth strolling
during the era of the Great Elector (see p22), around Neuer Garten and the historic area
and then again during the 18th century. around the Rathaus. The Russian colony of
Potsdam suffered very badly during Alexandrowka, the Holländisches Viertel, the
World War II, particularly during the nights film studios of Babelsberg and Babelsberg
of 14 and 15 April 1945, when the Allies park (see pp212–13) also rate among the
bombed the town’s centre. Despite its attractions of Potsdam.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings Churches Restaurants
1 Neues Palais pp196–7 8 Friedenskirche see p243
3 Communs i Peter und Paul Kirche 1 Alexandrowka
4 Schloss Charlottenhof o Französische Kirche 2 Juliette
5 Römische Bäder p Nikolaikirche 3 Krongut Bornstedt
6 Chinesisches Haus Parks and Theme Parks 4 Maison Charlotte
7 Orangerie 5 Speckers Landhaus
2 Park Sanssouci
9 Neue Kammern
r Neuer Garten
0 Schloss Sanssouci pp202–203
g Telegrafenberg
q Bildergalerie
h Filmpark Babelsberg p207
w Historische Mühle
t Schloss Cecilienhof Museums
NIEDLITZ
y Marmorpalais d Marstall (Filmmuseum)

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Terraced vineyard leading to the Sanssouci Palace, Park Sanssouci For keys to symbols see back flap
194  G r E AT E r B E r l I n
Street-by-Street: Park Sanssouci

The enormous Park Sanssouci, covering an area
of 287 hectares, is among the most beautiful
3 Communs
palace complexes in Europe. The first building to This house for the palace
be constructed was Schloss Sanssouci, the summer staff has an unusually elegant
palace of Frederick the Great. It was built between character, and is situated
next to a pretty courtyard.
1744 and 1747 on the site of an orchard. Over the
years, Park Sanssouci was expanded and enriched
by the addition of other palaces and pavilions.
Allow at least a whole day to enjoy the park fully.
1 . Neues Palais
The monumental building
of the New Palace,
constructed between 1763
and 1769, is crowned by a
massive dome.
0 metres 200
0 yards 200
4 Schloss
Charlottenhof
This Neo-Classical
palace gained its
name from Charlotte
5 Römische Bäder von Gentzkow, the
The Roman Baths include a former owner of the
mock-Renaissance villa and a land on which the
suite of Roman-style rooms. palace was built.
potsdam  195
2 Park Sanssouci
The extensive parkland is made up of several
gardens. The one near the Orangerie is called
the Botanischergarten (botanical garden).
7 Orangerie
This Neo-Renaissance
9 Neue
palace, the largest in Kammern
the park, was built in This Rococo
the mid-19th century pavilion was once
to house foreign the orangerie of the
royalty and guests. Sanssouci Palace,
but was rebuilt as a
guest house.
0 . Schloss
Sanssouci
A beautifully
terraced vineyard
creates a grand
approach to Schloss
Sanssouci, the
oldest building in
the complex.
q Bildergalerie
Built between 1755 and 1763,
this pavilion houses an art
gallery. It is Germany’s oldest
purpose-built museum building.
8 Friedenskirche
6 Chinesisches Haus The Neo-Romanesque
The small Rococo-style Chinese House Church of Peace is
features an exhibition of exquisite modelled on the Basilica
Oriental porcelain. of San Clemente in Rome.
196 І G R E AT E R B E R L I N
1 Neues Palais
This imposing Baroque palace, on the main
avenue in Park Sanssouci, was built at the
request of Frederick the Great. The initial
plans were prepared in 1750 by Georg
Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff. However,
construction only began in 1763, after the
Seven Years’ War (see p23), to a design by
Johann Gottfried Büring, Jean Laurent Le
Geay and Carl von Gontard. The result was
a vast two-storey building, decorated with
hundreds of sculptures and more than 200
richly adorned rooms, which together make
up one of Germany’s most beautiful palaces.
Façade
The entrance to the Neues Palais is through
the gate on the western façade. The imposing
gate is flanked by stone sentry boxes.
Study
This Rococo-style
study was part of
Frederick the
Great’s personal
apartment.
KEY
1 The Schlosstheater was

completed in 1768, and designed
by J C Hoppenhaupt.
2 Bas-reliefs on the triangular
tympanum depict figures from Greek Upper Gallery
mythology, including Minerva, the The Rococo interior, with a
Muses and Pegasus. beautiful inlaid floor, is dec-
orated with Italian paintings.
POTSDAM І 197
Figures on VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

the Dome
The Neues Palais Practical Information
is crowned by a Am Neuen Palais.
dome with a gilded Tel (0331) 969 42 00.
royal crown. The ∑ spsg.de
crown is carried by Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
a sculpture of Wed–Mon; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm
three nymphs. Wed–Mon. & 8 only.
Transport
@ 605, 606, 695.
. Marmorsaal
This vast ballroom features walls
inlaid with marble and a beautiful
painting on the ceiling. The
gallery was used by the orchestra.
Main entrance
Commode
This Rococo commode was
designed by J F Spindler in c.1765.
It is located in the Red Room in
the Duke’s Apartments.
. Grottensaal
The walls of this
unusual grotto-
style room are
Upper Vestibule lined with semi-
This elegant room was designed by Carl precious stones,
von Gontard. The walls are covered with coral and shells
Silesian marble and the ceiling depicts as well as man-
Venus and the Graces. made stalactites.
2 Park Sanssouci Charlottenhof Park, also

designed by Lenné. In the
Schopenhauerstrasse/Zur
northern section of the park,
Historischen Mühle. @ 612, 614, 695.
next to the Orangerie, is the
This vast park, covering some Nordischer Garten and the
3 sq km (1 sq mile), was estab Paradiesgarten.
lished in 1725 on the site of an The range of different garden
orchard. However, it was only styles makes a simple stroll
transformed into an enormous through this park particularly
landscaped park when con pleasant. There are also a large
struction work began on Schloss number of sculptures, columns,
Sanssouci (see pp202–3). Today, obelisks and grottoes for the
the park is made up of smaller visitor to explore. The vistas
gardens dating from different and perspectives that suddenly
eras, each of which has been open up across the park and the Elegant façade of the Communs,
maintained in the original style. picturesque groupings of trees the servants’ quarters
At the foot of Schloss Sanssouci are also beautiful.
is the oldest section of the park, buildings are enclosed by an
containing the Dutch garden, elegant courtyard reflected
a number of fountains and 3 Communs in the style of the buildings.
the Frenchstyle Lustgarten The kitchen was in the south
Am Neuen Palais. @ 605, 695.
(pleasure garden), with a pavilion, linked to the palace
symmetrical layout and lovely This area of the park consists of by an underground passage
rose beds. Surrounding a pair of twostorey pavilions way, and the north pavilion
Friedenskirche is the Marly linked by a semicircular accommodated the servants
garten, created in the mid19th colonnade. They are unusually of the king’s guests. Today,
century by Ludwig Persius. elegant buildings considering the rectors’ offices of the
The eastern part of the park they were used for servants’ University of Potsdam are
is called the Rehgarten, a quarters and the palace located here in the Communs.
beautifully landscaped park kitchens. However, they also
in the English style designed served to screen from view the
by Peter Joseph Lenné and cultivated fields that extended 4 Schloss
established on the site of former past the park from the palace. Charlottenhof
hunting grounds. This park The Communs were built Charlottenhof Palace
extends right up to the Neues between 1766 and 1769 by
GeschwisterSchollStrasse 34a (Park
Palais. To the south, surrounding Carl von Gontard, to a design Charlottenhof ). Tel (0331) 969 42 28.
the small palace, extends the by Jean Laurent Le Geay. The @ 605, 606. v 91, 94. Open 1 May–
31 Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
This small NeoClassical palace

is located in the southern
extension of Park Sanssouci,
Park Charlottenhof. It was
designed by Karl Friedrich
Schinkel in 1829 for the heir to
the throne, later King Friedrich
Wilhelm IV. This small onestorey
building was built in the style
of a Roman villa. The rear of the
palace has a portico that opens
out onto the garden terrace.
Some of the wall paintings
designed by Schinkel, which
were made in the socalled
Pompeiian style, are still
in place. The most interesting
part of the interior is the blue
andwhitestriped Humboldt
Room, also called the Tent
Room due to its resemblance
to a tent. The palace is sur
rounded by a picturesque
landscaped park designed
One of the many sculptures on display in Park Sanssouci by Peter Joseph Lenné.
POTSDAM І 199
5 Römische Bäder
Roman Baths
Lenné-Strasse (Park Charlottenhof ).
Tel (0331) 969 42 00. @ 605, 606.
v 91, 94, 98. Open May–Oct:
10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
This picturesque group of

pavilions, situated by the edge
of a lake, forms the “Roman
Baths”, which actually served
as accommodation for the
king’s guests. It was designed
by Karl Friedrich Schinkel, with
the involvement of Ludwig The Chinesisches Haus, now housing a collection of porcelain
Persius, between 1829 and
1840. At the front is the the pavilion. Originally the design was partly based on
gardener’s house, which is Chinesisches Haus served the plans of Ludwig Persius.
adjacent to an asymmetrical as a tearoom and a summer It served as a guest residence
low tower in the style of an dining room. Today, it houses for the king’s sister and her
Italian Renaissance villa. In a collection of porcelain. husband, Tsar Nicholas I. The
the background, to the left, rooms were grouped around
extends the former bathing the Raphael Hall, which was
pavilion, which is currently 7 Orangerie based on the Regia Hall in the
used for temporary exhibitions. Vatican and decorated with
Maulbeerallee (Nordischer Garten).
All of the pavilions are arranged copies of the works of Italian
Tel (0331) 969 42 80. @ 695.
around an internal garden Open Apr: 10am–6pm Sat, Sun &
artist Raphael. It is also worth
planted with a multicoloured hols; May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. climbing up to the observation
carpet of shrubs. A closer Observation terrace: Open Apr: terrace, from where the view
look will reveal that many 10am–6pm Sat, Sun & hols; May– extends over Potsdam.
of these colourful plants are Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
actually vegetables.
Towering above the park is 8 Friedenskirche
the Orangerie, designed in the
6Chinesisches Italian Renaissance style and
Am Grünen Gitter. Tel (0331) 97 40 09.
@ 695. v 91, 94. Open late Apr:
Haus crowned by a colonnade. The 11am–5pm Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun;
Chinese House Orangerie was built to house May–1 Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat,
guests, not plants. It was noon–6pm Sun; 2–16 Oct: 11am–5pm
Ökonomieweg (Rehgarten). Tel (0331)
constructed between 1851 and Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun; 17 Oct–late
969 42 00. @ 606, 695. v 91, 94.
Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
1860 by Friedrich August Stüler Apr: 11am–4pm Sat, 11:30am–5pm Sun.
on the initiative and direction
The lustrous, gilded pavilion of Friedrich Wilhelm IV. The final Close to Schloss Sanssouci is
that can be seen glistening Friedenskirche, or the Church
from a distance is the Chinese of Peace. The foundation stone
House. Chinese art was popular was laid by King Friedrich
during the Rococo period – Wilhelm IV in 1845 and the
people wore Chinese silk, church was completed in
rooms were wallpapered with 1848. Designed by Ludwig
Chinese designs, furniture was Persius, Friedrich August Stüler
lacquered, drinks were served in and Ludwig Hesse, the church
Chinese porcelain, and Chinese is based on San Clemente
pavilions were built in gardens. in Rome.
The Chinesisches Haus Inside, the vaulted ceiling
was built in Park Sanssouci of the apse is covered by a
between 1754 and 1756 to a 12th-century mosaic depicting
design by Johann Gottfried the figure of Christ as a judge.
Büring. It is circular in shape, This Byzantine mosaic was
with a centrally located main originally located in the church
hall surrounded by three of San Capriano on the island of
studies. Between each of these Murano in Venice. Next to the
are pretty trompe l’oeil porticoes. church is a mausoleum contain-
Ornaments, together with ing the tombs of Friedrich
gilded figures of Chinese Long flight of stairs leading to the Wilhelm I, Friedrich Wilhelm IV
gentlemen and ladies, surround Renaissance-style Orangerie and Kaiser Friedrich III.
9 Neue Kammern Doubting Thomas and Guido

New Chambers Reni’s Cleopatra’s Death, as well
as a number of canvases by
Zur Historischen Mühle (Lustgarten).
Tel (0331) 969 42 00. @ 695. Open
Rubens and van Dyck.
Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Wed–Mon; Nov–
Mar: 10am–5pm Wed–Mon. 8 &
w Historische Mühle
The Neue Kammern contains Historic Windmill
residential apartments. It is the
Mauelbeerallee 5. Tel (0331) 550 68 51.
mirror image of the Bildergalerie @ 695. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
and was originally built as an daily; Nov, Jan–Mar: 10am–4pm
orangery in 1747 to a design Sat & Sun. &
by Georg Wenzeslaus von Detail of Caravaggio’s Doubting Thomas,
Knobelsdorff. In 1777 Frederick in the Bildergalerie A mill has been located here
the Great (Friedrich II) ordered since the early 18th century,
the building to be remodelled q Bildergalerie although this is actually a
as guest accommodation. reconstruction, dating from
Zur Historischen Mühle. Tel (0331) 969
The architect, Georg Christian 1993. According to local legend,
42 00. @ 695. Open May–Oct:
Unger, left the elegant Baroque the original windmill was so
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
exterior of the orangery largely noisy that Frederick the Great
untouched and instead The picture gallery housed in ordered it to be dismantled.
concentrated on converting the building adjacent to Schloss However, a court upheld the
the interior. As well as the Sanssouci was the first purpose- miller’s cause and the mill
sumptuous guest suites, the built gallery in Germany. It was stayed. In 1790 a new windmill
new design included four constructed between 1755 and was built in its place, which
elegant halls. The best of these 1764 to a design by J G Büring. lasted until 1945. The mill
is the Ovidsaal, with its rich The garden elevation reveals an currently houses a museum
reliefs and marble floors. The allegorical tableau representing of mechanical windmills.
interior decor has been Art, Education and Crafts, while
maintained in Frederick’s busts of renowned artists have
Rococo style. The building been placed in the windows. e Alexandrowka
also houses a collection of The gallery contains an Russische Kolonie Allee/
Meissen figurines. exhibition of Baroque paintings Puschkinallee. v 92, 96. @ 604,
once owned by Frederick the 609, 692, 697.
Great, although part of the
0 Schloss Sanssouci collection can be found in the A trip to Alexandrowka takes the
Gemäldegalerie (see pp126–9). visitor into the world of Pushkin’s
See pp202–3.
Highlights include Caravaggio’s stories. Wooden houses made
A wooden house in the former Russian settlement of Alexandrowka

POTSDAM І 201
from logs, decorated with

carved motifs and set in their
own gardens, create a very
pretty residential estate.
Although they appear to be
picture-book traditional Russian
houses, they were constructed
in 1826 under the direction of a
German military architect called
Captain Snethlage. What is
interesting is that the estate
was created for the singers of a
Russian choir. The choir was set
up in 1812 to entertain the Schloss Cecilienhof, summer residence of the Hohenzollern family
troops and was recruited from
over 500 Russian prisoners of the current layout was created Potsdam Conference took place
war, who had fought with by Peter Joseph Lenné in here. Built between 1914 and
Napoleon. In 1815, when the 1816. It is a Romantic park 1917, the palace is the most
Prussians and the Russians ornamented with numerous recent of the Hohenzollern
joined forces, the choir was pavilions and sculptures. The dynasty buildings and was
retained by Friedrich Wilhelm III. charming Marmorpalais (see designed by Paul Schultze-
Peter Joseph Lenné was p204) stands beside the lake, Naumburg in the style of an
responsible for the overall while the northern section English country manor. It is
appearance of the estate, and it contains the early 20th-century a sprawling, asymmetrical
was named Alexandrowka after Schloss Cecilienhof. Elsewhere building with wooden beams
the Tsarina, the Prussian Princess you can see the red and green making a pretty herringbone
Charlotte. It is based on the gardeners’ houses, the pattern on its walls. The
shape of the cross of St Andrew pyramid-shaped ice house gatehouse passageways leading
inscribed within an oval. In all, and a Neo-Gothic library to the courtyards are decorated
12 houses were built here, as pavilion completed in 1794. with Baroque reliefs.
well as an outhouse which now The palace was the Hohen-
contains a small museum. Some zollern family residence after
of the dwellings are still owned t Schloss they lost the crown; the family
by the descendants of the choir. Cecilienhof remained in Potsdam until
To the north of this estate stands February 1945. It now functions
Am Neuen Garten. Tel (0331) 969
the Russian Orthodox church of 42 00. @ 692. Open Apr–Oct: 10am– as a first-class hotel and
Alexander Nevski (1829). 6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am– restaurant, where visitors can
5pm Tue–Sun. relax amid carefully tended
shrubbery. Most of the historic
The Cecilienhof residence furnishings used during the
played a brief but important famous Potsdam conference
part in history because the 1945 are on display.
The Potsdam Conference of 1945

On 17 July 1945 the heads of government of Great Britain (Winston
Churchill, later represented by Clement Attlee), the United States
(Harry Truman) and the Soviet Union (Joseph Stalin) met in Schloss
Cecilienhof to confirm the decisions made earlier that year at Yalta.
Orange growing in the Neuer Garten’s The aim of both conferences was to resolve the problems arising at
Marmorpalais the end of World War II. They decided to abolish the Nazi Party, to
limit the size of the German militia and monitor it indefinitely, and
r Neuer Garten also to punish war criminals and establish reparations. They also
revised the German
New Garden
borders and arranged
Am Neuen Garten. @ 692. the resettlement of
Germans from Poland.
Running along the edge of The conference played
Heiliger See, on what was once a major part in
the site of palace vineyards, is a establishing the
park laid out between 1787 political balance of
and 1791. It was landscaped power in Europe,
originally by Johann August which continued for
Eyserbeck on the instructions the next 45 years. Attlee, Truman and Stalin at Cecilienhof
of Friedrich Wilhelm II, while
0 Schloss Sanssouci
The name Sanssouci is French for “without a care” Bacchanalian
Figures
and gives a good indication of the flamboyant
The carved
character of this enchanting Rococo palace, built in male and female
1745. The original sketches, made by Friedrich II Bacchanalian
(Frederick the Great) himself, were finalized by figures on the
pilasters are the
Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff. The glorious
work of Friedrich
interiors were designed by Knobelsdorff and Johann Christian Glume.
August Nahl. The king clearly loved this palace, as
his final wishes were that he should be buried here,
near the tomb of his Italian greyhounds. He was
actually interred in the Garnisonkirche, Potsdam,
but his final wishes were carried out in 1991.
Voltaire Room
This room is decorated
with naturalistic carvings
of birds, flowers and fruit.
Domed Roof
The oxidized green dome covers the Marmorsaal.
It is decorated with Baroque sculptures.
Marmorsaal
KEY The imposing marble hall is
decorated with pairs of
1 The wings were added to the columns made from
building between 1841 and 1842. Carrara marble. Frederick
2 The colonnade frames the view the Great wanted this room
of the artificial ruins on the hill. to be loosely based on the
Pantheon in Rome.
POTSDAM І 203
Arbour
The palace design
is completed by
picturesque arbours and
Park Sanssouci.
pergolas decorated with
Tel (0331) 969 42 00.
sun motifs.
∑ spsg.de
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–
5pm Tue–Sun.
Damenflügel: May–Oct:
& 8 compulsory.
Transport
Weimar Urn (1785) @ 612, 614, 650, 695.
This Neo-Classical urn from v 91, 94, X98.
the Berlin company KPM
(see p137) is a copy of the original
urn, which was presented to the
Duchess of Weimar.
. Fêtes Galantes (c.1715)

The real jewels in the palace are the
enchanting paintings by Antoine
Watteau. He was one of Frederick
the Great’s favourite artists.
Bibliothek
The library of
Frederick the Great
contains about 2,100
books. The walls are
. Konzertzimmer lined with cedar
The walls of the salon are decorated with panelling to create
paintings by Antoine Pesne, based on a contemplative
Greek mythology. atmosphere.
y Marmorpalais
Marble Palace
Am Ufer des Heiligen Sees (Neuer
Garten). Tel (0331) 969 42 00. @ 692,
695. Open Apr: 10am–6pm Sat, Sun &
hols; May–Oct: 10am– 6pm Tue–Sun;
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Sat, Sun & hols.
The Marmorpalais is situated

on the edge of the lake in
Neuer Garten (see p201), a park
northeast of the centre of
Potsdam. This small palace is a
beautiful example of early Neo- The historic Dutch district known as the Holländisches Viertel
Classical architecture and owes
its name to its façade, which is u Holländisches copy of the campanile of San
lined with Silesian marble. Viertel Zeno Maggiore in Verona, Italy.
The square main body of the Dutch Quarter Inside are three beautiful
palace was the initiative of King paintings by French painter
Friedrich-Ebert-/Kurfürsten-/Hebbel-/
Friedrich Wilhelm II. The original Antoine Pesne.
Gutenbergstrasse. @ 604, 609, 692.
building was completed in 1791
v 91, 92, 94, 96.
to a design by Carl von Gontard,
under the direction of Carl Just as amazing as the Russian
Gotthard Langhans. The single- district of Alexandrowka (see
storey building had small rooms pp200–201) is this Dutch district.
around a central staircase, but it The area is popular with tourists,
turned out to be too small, and with numerous shops, galleries,
in 1797 it was extended. An cafés and beer cellars, especially
extra floor and two projecting along the central Mittelstrasse.
wings were added. This gave Dutch workers, invited by
the Marmorpalais the character Friedrich Wilhelm I, arrived
of a Palladian villa. in Potsdam at the beginning of
The main part of the palace the 18th century. Between 1733
contains Neo-Classical and 1742 a settlement was built The colonnaded portico of the
furnishings from the late 1700s, for them, comprising 134 Französische Kirche
including furniture from the gabled houses arranged in four
workshops of Roentgen and groups, according to plans by
porcelain from the English firm Johann Boumann the Elder. o Französische
Wedgwood. The interiors of the They were built from small red Kirche
wings date from slightly later, bricks and finished with stone French Church
from the 1840s. The concert and plaster details. These
Bassinplatz. Tel (0331) 29 12 19.
hall in the right-hand wing is houses are typically three- @ 604, 609, 612. v 93, 94, 99.
particularly beautiful. King storey, with picturesque roofs Open late Mar–Oct: 1:30–5pm daily.
Friedrich Wilhelm II died in this and gables.
palace in 1797. This church, reminiscent of the
Pantheon in Rome, was built
i Peter und Paul especially for the Huguenots in
Kirche 1752. Following their expulsion
Bassinplatz. Tel (0331) 230 79 90. from France, they were given
@ 604, 609, 612. v 91, 92, 94, 96. the option of settling in Prussia
Open Mon–Sat; opening hours vary, in 1685 (see p23). Those who
so call ahead. 5 10am Sun. settled in Potsdam initially
benefited from the hospitality of
This 19th-century church was other churches, then eventually
the first large Catholic church the Französische Kirche was
built in Potsdam, at the built for them. It was designed
initiative of Friedrich Wilhelm by Johann Boumann the Elder
IV. The first designs came from in the shape of an ellipse. The
Friedrich August Stüler, but front elevation is supported
the final version is the work by a grand columned portico.
of Wilhelm Salzenberg. The The side niches, which are the
church was built in 1870, in the entrances of the church, are
The Neo-Classical Marmorpalais, with its shape of a Neo-Romanesque decorated with the allegorical
inlaid marble façade cross. Its slender tower is a figures of Faith and Knowledge.
POTSDAM І 205
The interior dates from the and 1755 to a design by

1830s and is based on designs Prussian architect Georg
by Karl Friedrich Schinkel. Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff.
Initially it was decorated by
medallions bearing the
p Nikolaikirche portraits of Prussian rulers, but
during the post-World War II
Am Alten Markt. Tel (0331) 270 86 02.
@ 604, 605, 609, 610, 695. v 91, 92,
restorations, they were replaced
93, 94, 96, 99, X98. Open noon–2pm with portraits of renowned
Mon, 10am–5pm Wed. Prussian architects.
This imposing church, built in

a late Neo-Classical style, is a Neuer Landtag Landtag Brandenburg
the most beautiful church in New Parliament
Potsdam. It was designed in After a bombing raid in 1945,
Alter Markt 1. Tel (0331) 966 12 53/55.
1830 by Karl Friedrich Schinkel the palace remained in ruins
Open Exhibition, Foyer and Cafeteria:
and the building work was for many years, but the East
8am–6pm Mon–Fri. Courtyard: 8am–
overseen by Ludwig Persius. 8pm daily. ∑ landtag.brandenburg.de German Government decided
The main body of the church finally to pull down the remains
is based on a square cross, with Although this building now in 1960.
a semi-circular presbytery. houses the parliament of the For decades the area remained
It was decided only in the federal state of Brandenburg, its an inhospitable traffic junction
1840s to crown the church with elaborate façade is a replica of until, in 2002, the Fortuna Gate
a vast dome, supported on a the Potsdam Royal Palace that was re-erected. After much
colonnaded tambour (wall once stood here. The palace was discussion, it was then decided
supporting a dome). Schinkel built in 1662 on the site of a former to construct a replica of the
had envisaged this from the castle, on the initiative of the Great former palace façade, along
beginning of the project, but it Elector. Over the following years with a modern interior. The
was not included in the orders the palace was greatly enlarged works were finished in 2013
of the king. Initially it was and modernized for members of and the building now functions
thought that the dome would the royal family, including as the Brandenburg parliament.
be supported by a wooden Frederick the Great (Friedrich II), Visitors are free to enter the inner
structure, though ultimately it to become a massive two-storey courtyard through the entrance
was built using iron, between building with three wings, an gate, the Fortuna Portal, as well
1843 and 1848, according to a elegant courtyard and a superb as the entrance hall, with the
design by Persius and Friedrich gateway crowned by a tower. famous Knobelsdorff staircase.
August Stüler. The interior
decoration and the furnishings
of the church date back to the
Potsdam Town Gates
1850s, and in the main area of The city of Potsdam was enclosed by a wall in 1722. This wall did not
the church they were based serve a defensive purpose – it was supposed to contain criminals and
on the earlier interior designs stop soldiers deserting. When the borders of the town were extended
by Schinkel. in 1733, new districts were also enclosed by the wall. There was a
In front of the church stands total of five city gates, of which three have survived. Jägertor has
an obelisk built between 1753 survived in its original condition and dates from 1733. Featuring solid,
wide pillars, the gate is crowned with a group of sculptures depicting
hunting dogs attacking a deer. Nauener Tor was redesigned in 1755
by Johann Gottfried Büring and, interestingly, it is one of the earliest
examples of Neo-Gothic design occurring outside Great Britain. The
most imposing of the gates is the Brandenburger Tor. It was rebuilt in
1770 in a Neo-Classical style to commemorate victory in the Seven
Years’ War (see p23). The designers, Gontard and Unger, gave it the
appearance of an ancient triumphal arch. At the very top are a
number of different groups of sculptures. These include figures
from Greek mythology, such as Hercules and Mars.
Nikolaikirche’s imposing exterior, with Nauener Tor Jägertor Brandenburger Tor

its green, weathered dome
s Altes Rathaus
Old Town Hall
Am Alten Markt 9. Tel (0331) 289 68 68.
@ 603, 605, 609, 631, 638, 639, 695.
v 91, 92, 93, 96, 98, 99. Open 10am–
5pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 10am–7pm Thu,
10am–6pm Sat & Sun. &
This elegant, colonnaded

building, constructed in 1753 on Stately building of the Marstall (Filmmuseum)
the eastern side of Alter Markt, is
the old town hall. The uppermost after major restoration, it was Oriental dome, was designed
storey, which features an orna- converted into a film museum. by Ludwig Persius in 1842. The
mental attic roof, is decorated As well as mounting temporary dome does not serve any useful
with the crest of Potsdam and exhibitions, the museum purpose, although within
allegorical sculptures. A glass documents the history and the minaret there is a huge
passageway links the building work of the Babelsberg studios, chimney. While visiting you
to a neighbouring mid-18th Germany’s earliest film studios. can see the preserved steam-
century building housing the Exhibits include old projectors, powered machinery made
Potsdam-Museum. The museum’s cameras and other equipment by the Borsig company.
rich collection of artifacts tells the as well as props used in some of
story of Potsdam’s development. the most famous German films.
A nearby branch of the museum,
g Telegrafenberg
Memorial Lindenstrasse 54/55, is Albert-Einstein-Strasse.  Potsdam
a former prison and interrogation f Wasserwerk Hauptbahnhof. Einsteinturm: Tel
(0331) 749 94 69. Open May–Oct, by
centre used by both the Nazi
and East German regimes.
Sanssouci appointment only. & compulsory.
Breite Strasse 28. Tel (0331) 969 42
25. @ 605, 606. v 91, 94, X98. The buildings on the Telegrafen-
Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Sat, berg are considered to be
Sun & hols. &
some of the best 20th-century
structures in the world and
Although Potsdam once attract many admirers of
boasted a Russian and a Dutch modern architecture. The hill
community, the remarkable received its current name in
mosque (also called Dampf- 1832, when an optical telegraph
maschinenhaus) was not built station linking Berlin and
to serve the needs of an Islamic Koblenz was built here. In the
community, but to hide the late 19th century, various
special steam pump that educational institutes were
serviced the fountains in Park located here, including the
Sanssouci. This Moorish-style Institute of Astrophysics, for
The impressive façade of the building, with its minaret and which the complex of buildings
Potsdam-Museum in yellow brick was built.
The meandering avenues
d Marstall lead to a picturesque clearing
(Filmmuseum) where the small Einsteinturm
(Einstein’s Tower) breaks
Breite Strasse 1A. Tel (0331) 27 18 10. through the surrounding trees.
@ 605, 695. v 91, 92, 96, 98. Specially designed to observe
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & the solar system, the tower was
intended to provide information
This Baroque pavilion, once that would support Einstein’s
used as a royal stables – hence Theory of Relativity. It was built
the name Marstall – is the only in 1920 by Erich Mendelsohn
remaining building of a former and is regarded as one of the
royal residence. It was first finest architectural examples
established in 1714 by of German Expressionism. Its
refashioning the orangery built fantastical appearance was
by Johann Nering in 1685. In intended to show what could
1746 it was extended and be achieved with reinforced
refashioned once more. It concrete. However, due to cost,
suffered extensive damage Moorish Wasserwerk Sanssouci, everything above the first storey
in World War II and in 1977, complete with minaret is brick-work covered in plaster.
POTSDAM І 207
h Filmpark Babelsberg VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This amazing theme park was laid out on the site of the film Practical Information
studios where Germany’s first films were produced in 1912. August-Bebel Strasse 26–53
From 1917 the studio belonged to Universum-Film-AG (UFA), (enter at Grossbeeren Strasse).
Tel (0331) 721 27 50.
which produced some of the most renowned films of the silent
∑ filmpark-babelsberg.de
era, such as Metropolis (see p155). Nazi propaganda films were Open Apr–Nov: 10am–6pm daily.
also made here. The studio is still operational today, although Closed Mon in Sep. &
part of the complex is open to visitors. Expect to see the sets Transport
from old films, special effects at work and stuntmen in action. @ 601, 619, 690.  Griebnitzsee.
Sandmann and the Lost Land of Dreams

Sandmann is a character from an animated
television series, and has entertained
children in East Germany from
1959 to the present day.
Simulator ride
Medieval Village
You can take a spine-chilling stroll
through a world of haunted
houses, eerie graveyards
and ghostly
figures.
Submarine Panama –
(U-Boot Janosch’s
“Boomer”) Dreamland
A short boat
trip will take you
through the enchan-
ting world of the
children’s illustrator
Janosch in the company of
Little Tiger and Little Bear.
Stunt Show
at the Vulkan gives the
Prinz Eisenherz Restaurant Babelsberg stunt crew the
This is in a medieval castle Main chance to impress and thrill
made for the film Prinz entrance in a spectacular daily show.
Eisenherz (Prince Valiant).
G R E AT E R B E R L I N  209
THREE GUIDED WALKS

Berlin is full of enchanting parks, gardens, which was laid out in the 1820s for Prince
lakes and interesting monuments, and one of Karl of Prussia. This route continues across
the best ways to enjoy them is by going on a the former border between East and West
guided walk. The three walks suggested in this Germany, in an area which is now part of
chapter provide for relaxation far from the Potsdam. There you can visit the Romantic-
hustle and bustle of the city centre. The first era park of Babelsberg, and the Neo-Gothic
takes you onto the picturesque Pfaueninsel palace designed for Prince Wilhelm by Karl
(Peacock Island), which at the end of the Friedrich Schinkel. The third walk, around the
18th century was refashioned into a romantic forest called Grunewald, takes you initially
English-style park with garden pavilions and through a deluxe villa resort of the late
an enchanting little palace. After visiting the 19th century, and then along forest paths
island you can pay a short visit to Nikolskoe – to the Grunewaldsee. On the shores of this
a Russian-style dacha (country house) built for lake stands an enchanting hunting lodge.
the future Tsar Nicholas I and his wife, the From there you can continue walking to the
daughter of King Friedrich Wilhelm III. The Brücke-Museum. Because each of these three
second walk begins in Berlin and takes you walks leads you across unpaved paths,
first through the grounds of the Glienicke Park, remember to wear comfortable shoes.
Greater Berlin 2/5
Wilmersdorf
2
A1
00
Gatow Grunewald
(see pp214–15)
Friedenau
15
l
ve
A1
Pfaueninsel and Dahlem

Ha
Nikolskoe
(see pp210–11)
N
HE
EIC Steglitz
N
DE
TER
UN
Zehlendorf
Schlachtensee Lichterfelde
E
Wannsee USE
CHA
ER
AM
TRASSE
1 SD
KÖNIGS P OT
Schönow
Babelsberg
Glienicke and
Babelsberg
(see pp212–13)
5 Teltow
A11
Stahnsdorf
Key
Walking route
Autobahn (motorway)
Major road
0 kilometres 2
Minor road
0 miles 2
Railway line
The picturesque Neo-Gothic Babelsberg palace For keys to symbols see back flap
Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe

This walk takes you around Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island).
This picturesque park, now a nature reserve, was laid out in
1795 according to a design by Johann August Eyserbeck.
Its final form, which you see today, is the work of the
renowned landscape architect Peter Joseph Lenné. This
pleasant, relaxing walk allows you to explore several
interesting sights, and to encounter the peacocks for which
the island is named. Afterwards you can have refreshments
at the lakeside, or head straight to Nikolskoe, the location
of one of Berlin’s finest restaurants.
Brendel for Friedrich Wilhelm II James’s Well, deliberately built

and his mistress Wilhelmine to resemble a picturesque ruin
Encke (the future Countess
Lichtenau). The palace was built house, Karl Friedrich
of wood, with a façade (hidden Schinkel installed an
away) fashioned in the form of authentic façade from 7
a ruined medieval castle. The a late Gothic house
façade was visible from Neuer brought over from Danzig
Garten in Potsdam. The cast- (now Gdansk) in Poland.
iron bridge which links the From here you proceed
towers was built in 1807. During further in the same
the summer months you can direction, and
go inside the palace to see its
furnishings from the 18th
One of the colourful peacocks on and 19th centuries.
Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island) After leaving the palace,
follow the path that leads along 66
Around Pfaueninsel the edge, passing by the
At the jetty 1 you board a small kitchen pavilion 4 on the left,
passenger ferry, which takes which is set amid greenery.
you to the island in a few At the next junction turn 55
minutes. After disembarking, gently right into the
ee
follow the path which leads to depths of the island. You
the left. It continues along the will pass by James’s
edge of the island, gently uphill Well 5 which was 44
to the Castellan’s House 2 and built to resemble an
further on to the Swiss House, ancient ruin, and 33
dating from 1830, in which the cross a meadow
gardener lived. Continue along heading towards a
the path to the extensive small wood which 22
clearing with a picturesque contains the
flower garden, beyond which Kavalierhaus 6. 11
is the small romantic palace of This building was
Schloss Pfaueninsel 3. used to provide
Dating from 1794, it the royal
P F AUP EF N
AUI NESNEILN S E L
was designed by household with CH CH
AU AU
SS SS
Johann Gottlieb accommoda- EE EE
tion. At the 4km 4km

WannseeWannsee
/ 2.5 /miles
2.5 miles
front of the
G
G
E
E
W
W
R
R
E
E
O
O
K
K
LS
LS
O
O
IK
IK
0 metres 200
N
0 yards 200
Key
tt
rr
The Neo-Gothic Schloss Pfaueninsel Suggested route
designed by Johann Brendel Ferry route
THREE GUIDED WALKS І 211
emerge again in a large clearing. Tips for Walkers

To the left you can marvel at the
Parschenkessel bay 7 in the Beginning of the walk: the jetty
distance, surrounded by dead for the ferry to Pfaueninsel.
trees on which cormorants nest. Length: 4.4 km (2.7 miles).
Take the path on the left to the Duration: 2.5–3 hours.
Getting there: bus 218 or 316
Neo-Gothic Dairy 8 and the
from S-Bahn Wannsee; or ferry
Dutch House 9. This was a
from Wannsee or Potsdam.
cow shed and dates
Stops: Pfaueninsel has no
from 1802, while restaurants. “Wirtshaus zur
Pfaueninsel” is by the jetty;
“Blockhaus Nikolskoe” is in
Guests on the terrace of the Blockhaus Nikolskoe. Schloss Pfaueninsel:
88 Nikolskoe in summer Open Apr–Oct: 10am–5:30pm
Tue–Sun. Tel 80 58 68 30.
99
further along the edge of the ∑ spsg.de
lake, while on the right side
among the trees you pass the
stone commemorating church of Saints Peter and Paul
Johannes Kunckel, an alchemist r, which rises above a large
77 who lived on Pfaueninsel in the terrace from where there are
17th century. In his quest to pretty views of Pfaueninsel.
00 discover how to make gold, he The church was built between
in fact discovered a method the years 1834 and 1837,
of producing ruby-coloured according to a design
glass. Carry on further by Friedrich August Stüler.
through the forest, passing The small, orderly, body of the
the Gothic Bridge q, and church is fronted by a tower
then take the path to the crowned by an onion-shaped
right up towards the hill of dome, which reflects Russian
the Aviary w, home to Orthodox sacral architecture.
multi-coloured parrots This links to the adjacent
qq
and pheasants. From here Blockhaus Nikolskoe t, a
ww you continue towards the Russian-style wooden dacha
tall column of a Fountain (country house), built in 1819
e designed by Martin by the architect Snethlage,
Friedrich Rabe in 1824. who created the Alexandrowka
Next, walk onward to the estate in Potsdam. The dacha
jetty, passing the market was a present from King
gardens with their hothouses Friedrich Wilhelm III to his
on the way. daughter and son-in-law, the
H aHvaevl e l future Tsar Nicholas I.
From the Jetty to Nikolskoe Following a fire in 1985 the
Once you’ve taken the little dacha was reconstructed,
ferry back to the mainland, head and it currently houses an
off to the left, going south. excellent restaurant. Nearby
When you come to the fork, take you will find a bus stop where
the right-hand path leading you can catch buses back to
the Dairy gently uphill. This leads to the the S-Bahn Wannsee.
is an artificial
ruin of a medieval
abbey dating from
1795. From here take
the path along the edge of
the lake heading south; you can
marvel at the wonderful views.
To the right by the edge of the
forest you can see Luisentempel
0 in the form of a Greek
temple. Its sandstone portico at
the front was moved to the
island from the mausoleum in
Schlosspark Charlottenburg (see
p167) in 1829. The path leads The little ferry on the Havel river which takes passengers to Pfaueninsel
Glienicke and Babelsberg

H aHv a
e vl e l
This guided walk takes you through an area 77
6
covered by two interesting palace-park complexes –
Glienicke and Babelsberg. They were built originally Glienicker
Glienicker
Brücke
Brücke
for members of the royal family during the mid-19th 88
S S ES S E
century. The buildings of Glienicke were designed by RA RA 99
ST ST
R
E E R
Schinkel, Persius and von Arnim in a Neo-Classical IN IN
RL RL
style. Peter Joseph Lenné created the charming park BE BE
in which they are located. Babelsberg has a more

romantic park, which was completed by Hermann
G l iG
e lni iecnkiecrk e r
von Pückler-Muskau. It is maintained in a completely S e eS e e
different style, with regal Neo-Gothic pavilions.
T i eTf ieerf e r
S e eS e e
ee
P APRAKR K
rr
B ABBAEBL ES LBSEBREGR G
tt
Mosaic from the Klosterhof in the gardens of Klein Glienicke yy
Around Glienicke Karl Friedrich Schinkel for

The walk begins by the main Prince Karl of Prussia. During uu
gate leading into the park. The the summer, you can visit
southern section of the park has the palace between 10am
the feel of an Italianate Arcadian and 6pm. Beyond the
garden. Soon on the left you will symmetrical, Neo-Classical
see the Stibadium 1, a roofed building extends an irregular
pavilion designed by Ludwig cluster of buildings, grouped
Persius. Nearby you can marvel around a courtyard with a
at the imposing Fountain of veranda, which include
Lions 2, decorated with gilded a pergola and staff cottages.
figures of these royal beasts. The You pass by the palace and
fountain stands on the axis of the approach the Coach House 4, GR GR
EN EN
ZS ZS
palace 3, which was built in designed by Schinkel but
.
TR TR
TR
TR
. .
ES
ES
1825, according to a design by refurbished several times.

LL
LL
O
O
W
This now houses the Coach

House restaurant.
Beyond the Coach House man-made waterfalls, planks for
you can see the orangery and crossing the water, and hunting
greenhouses built by Persius 5. lodges. You can return in the
A path leads in the direction direction of the lake and go up
of the lake, but on the way it to the Casino 7, which once
is worth diverting to the right contained guest apartments.
to the Klosterhof 6, a mock From here a path extending
monastery with pavilions, also along the lake takes you to the
by Persius. In the walls of these Grosse Neugierde 8, a circular
buildings are numerous pavilion with a roof supported
Byzantine and Romanesque by Doric columns, based on the
architectural elements from Italy. Athenian monument to
Further to the north extends a Lysikrates from the 4th century
second “wild” section of the park BC. From here there are beautiful
The reconstructed Gothic Gerichtslaube created to resemble an alpine views across the Havel river and
(arcaded courthouse) and Carpathian landscape, with Glienicker Brücke 9, known
From Glienicke to
Babelsberg
7 On leaving the park you cross
65
65
to the other side of Potsdamer
44 Chaussee and proceed along
33 T R AT R A Mövenstrasse, passing the
N I GNS I G S S S ES S E
0021
21 KÖ KÖ massive building of the
Wannsee Wannsee Jagdschloss Glienicke q on
.
.
STR
STR
5km 5km / 3 miles

/ 3 miles the right. Located on the site
M
M
ÖV
ÖV
NER
NER
of an earlier hunting lodge,

E
E
NS
NS
SCH
SCH
TR
TR
its Neo-Mannerist appear-

AS
AS
LE U
LE U
SE
SE
ance is the result of a

qq massive rebuilding
LO LO
UI UI
process undertaken in
S- S
W W
AL AL
DM DM
NA -NA
TH TH
A A
1889 by Albert Geyer, on
ÜL ÜL N- N
LE L
RS ERS
TR TR
A L -A L
LE
E EE
L behalf of Prince Friedrich
AS AS
SE SE Leopold. It now houses
an international meeting
ST R.
ST R.
ww centre as well as an Babelsberg’s Neo-Gothic Flatowturm

LA N KE
LA N KE
Parkbrücke
Parkbrücke
academy of folk art. dating from 1853 to 1856
Passing the Jagdschloss
e W
AS AS
W you turn right into The interior is currently closed
SE SE
RS RS
TR TR
. .
Waldmüllerstrasse, for renovation.
K ARLK-A MRA L -RM AR
X - STXR- ST R then right again into From here, take the path
. .
Lankestrasse, which leads leading along the edge of the
you to the bridge linking Havel to the so-called Kleines
E
E
GLIENICK
GLIENICK
Glienicke with Babelsberg. Schloss r. Another Neo-Gothic

palace, although much smaller
Around Schloss Babelsberg in scale, this was where ladies of
NA C H
NA C H
From the bridge you head right the court once resided. It now
towards the engine house w, houses a café.
ALLEE
ALLEE
designed by Persius to look like From here you proceed further

a medieval castle with a tall to the edge of the lake, taking
tower covering the chimney. the left branch to the Neo-Gothic
From here you head towards stable t, and further to the
Schloss Babelsberg e, designed Gerichtslaube (Gothic arcaded
by Karl Friedrich Schinkel for the courthouse) y which was
E E
future Kaiser Wilhelm I of moved here from Berlin. The
CK CK
TR .
TR .
IE
NI ENI Germany. The palace was built final sight on this walk is the
T- S
T- S
I
GL
GL
between 1833 and 1835 in a Flatowturm u, a Neo-Gothic

CH
CH
CH
CH
NE
NE
Neo-Gothic style and shows the tower dating from 1853 to 1856,
NA
NA
BK
BK
EE
EE
paradoxically influence of English architecture from which there are marvellous

LI E
LI E
LL
LL
RL -
RL -
A
as the “bridge of on Schinkel. This beautiful, views of the surrounding area.

KA
KA
Babelsberg
Babelsberg
unity” under the irregular building with many From here follow the path to the
800 metres
800 metres
/ / East German regime. towers and bay windows is park exit at Grenzstrasse. Turning
870 yards
870 yards
The border with West one of Schinkel’s greatest works. left, you reach the bus stop for
Berlin ran across this the No. 694, which goes to
bridge, where the exchange of S-Bahn Babelsberg station.
spies was conducted during the
Cold War. You return via a path Tips for Walkers
along the wall of the main gate,
passing the Kleine Neugierde 0, Beginning of the walk: bus stop
a pavilion serving as a tearoom. at Glienicker Brücke.
This was built in the form of an Length: 4.2 km (2.6 miles).
ancient temple, and its walls Duration: 3 hours.
Getting there: bus 316 from
contain original Roman and
S-Bahn station Wannsee or
Byzantine fragments.
ferry from Wannsee or from
Potsdam.
0 metres 300
Stops: Café at Park Babelsberg;
0 yards 300 Coach House at Glienicke.
Schloss Babelsberg: Tel (0331)
969 42 50 for latest information.
Key
The Neo-Gothic Schloss Babelsberg, ∑ spsg.de
Suggested route designed by KF Schinkel
Grunewald
This walk leads initially through one of Berlin’s most elegant
residential areas, established in 1889. Once the haunt of GrunewaldTRAS
SE SSE
Grunewald
S ST
RA 33
H
politicians, wealthy industrialists, renowned artists and B
ER
EN BEN
A RA
ER
22
55
11 TR T TR
.
TR
.
academics, some villas now serve as the headquarters of AM BAHNHOF

AM BAHNHOF
GRUNEWALD
GRUNEWALD
LE
RS ERS
IN
K L
I4
NK 4
W W
DOU
DOU
academic institutes. This walk continues through the forest R. R.
FONTANESTR.
FONTANESTR.
ST ST
G
ER HER Dianasee
Dianasee
LASS
LASS
CH
to a small hunting lodge with an interesting art collection, BA RBA
C
TR.
TR.
R
E E ASTR. ASTR.
AU AU BETTINBETTIN
and ends at the edge of the Grunewald in a residential B
estate of elegant villas, home of the Brücke-Museum. G.

-V
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The elegant villa at Winklerstrasse No. 11
From Bahnhof Grunewald palazzo with sgraffito

to Hagenstrasse decorations 4. The villa
From the S-Bahn Grunewald at No. 8–10, dating from
station follow the signs to 1902, boasts costly stone
“Grunewald (Ort)”. Be sure to elevations, which fan out
take a close look at the station richly with decorations in Grunewaldsee
Grunewaldsee
itself 1 – this picturesque the German Renaissance
wooden-framed building was style 5. By this villa turn
built in 1899. The station has a right into Hasensprung,
dark past, though, as Berlin’s which leads across the
Jews were transported from bridge decorated with 00
here to the concentration running hares, dividing
camps. From the square in Dianasee from Königssee. qq
front of the station, go along You reach Königsallee and
Winklerstrasse, which turns left. turn left before immediately
Along the way you will pass turning right into Lassenstrasse,
stunningly beautiful villas. The and then right again into
Neo-Classical house at No. 15, Bismarckstrasse, which leads
dating from 1899, was home to to a small square where you Hartmann, dating from 1896.
architect Ewald Becher 2. Not can marvel at the picturesque He is also responsible for the
much further on the same side Neo-Gothic Grunewald-Kirche villa at No. 23 Seebergsteig,
of the road, at No. 11, is a villa 6. From here go left into featuring fantastic elevations
dating from 1906 3. It was Furtwänglerstrasse, where decorated with Secessionist
designed by Hermann it is worth looking at the motifs 9. From here, continue
Muthesius, who villa at No. 15, a beautiful along Hubertusbader Strasse
transplanted example of a to Hagenstrasse.
onto German southern German
soil the style of country house 7. From Hagenstrasse
English rustic Next turn right into to the Brücke-Museum
building. On the Hubertusbader Cut through Hagenstrasse and
right at No. 12 Strasse, where continue further, straight into
is Villa Maren, at No. 25 an Wildpfad, where you turn left
dating from 1897, interesting villa with in Waldmeisterstrasse, which
an example of a Neo- Neo-Classical motifs leads along the fence of the
Renaissance building in Rose window, has survived 8, which grounds of private clubs. Turn
the style of an Italian Grunewald-Kirche is the work of Arnold right into Eichhörnchensteig,
. .
which gradually becomes
TR TR
W
ISS
W NE
IS
LS
TS
NE
LS
TS
surrounded by forest and
HERTHASTRASSE
HERTHASTRASSE
MA GSMA G
NN
ST
NN
ST
changes from being a road into
LEE
LEE
R. R. E E
AL
LE
AL
LE
a forest path. Once past the
AL
AL
CK RCK
IGS
IGS
AR A R. R.
HER
HER
grounds of the private clubs,
HA
HA
Königssee
Königssee M SM ST ST
N
S
I Z TZ BI
KÖ
KÖ
B
SE
SE
BER
BER
NI NI
5 Herthasee
Herthasee
NS
NS
EI EI
HL CHL follow a road which goes
T
T
P
STR
STR
RU
RU
Bismarckbrücke
Bismarckbrücke S C S
NG
NG
ASS
ASS
HER HER
THA THA
STR STR gently to the right, and
E
E
LA L ASS ASS
SS ASS E E
e
G .
EN
G
ST.
R
EN
ST
R
DE
LB
DE
L
RÜ BRÜ
down to the edge of the
E E . . CK CK Hubertussee
Hubertussee
ED
RW
LE DLE
E
RW S TR S T
AS RAS picturesque Grunewaldsee.
SE SE
SC
BISMABIS
HW CHW
S Turn left and continue along
RCK MA
ALLRCK
EE ALLEE
66 its edge to Jagdschloss
EE
EE
Grunewald 0. This is one of

LL
LL
SA
SA
SSE
NERSTRASSE
SE
SE
LA LA
TU
TU
AS
AS
WERNERSTRA
SS S
EN SEN
the oldest civic buildings to
ER
ER
TR
TR
-S
-S
ST S
RA TRA
SS
SS
TAUB TAUB
HU
HU
ERTS ERTS
AU
AU
FU F SS SS
T T RT URT E E
survive in Berlin. It was built for
TR
TR
RIC WER
W W
R.
R.
-S
-S
ÄN ÄN
RD
RD
TO TO G G JOSEPH- JOSEPH-
77 the Elector Joachim II in 1542,
HA
HA
NI NI LE L
R. -L -L RS EJOACHIM-PLATZ
RS JOACHIM-PLATZ
RIC
ES ES TR TR
SL SL . .
ER ER
and around 1700 it was rebuilt
SE
SE
LEO-BLECH-
LEO-BLECH- DA DA
88
-S -S
E
E
AS
AS
PLATZPLATZ CH C TR TR
SS
TEPLITZER STRASSEASS
SB HSB
TR
TR
. .
AD TRA
TS
TS
ER ER
in a Baroque style. Through the
TEPLITZER STRASSE
R
99 The household buildings in the hunting

ST
ER
ER
G G
S
UB
UB
KN K
ER
ER
AU NAU
TA
TA
AD
BR B S ST S S gate you enter a courtyard lodge in Grunewald

SB
SB
AH RAH RA TRA
TU
TU
M M SS SS
SS S E E TAUNU TAU
enclosed on three sides with
ER
KRONBERGER STR. BER
TR STR SSTNU R. SSTR.

B
. .
HU
HU
KRONBERGER STR.
E
household buildings. In the summer the garden is filled
REUTERPFAD
REUTERPFAD
.
TR
small palace is Berlin’s only with tables, where you can

RS
surviving Renaissance hall. enjoy a tasty meal and have

P FA
P FA
HAG HAG
ENST ENST
IL D
IL D
RAS RAS
SE SE
It houses a collection of a rest, following the walk.
W
W W
ILD IL KÖN KÖN
M
M
BE
BE
PF DPF IGSM IGSM

RN
RN
LE AM
ARCK ARCK
AD AD
paintings, with canvases by From Paulsborn you return to
DA
STRA STRA
AD
AD
WA
WA
SSE SSE
D
RN
RN
O
OT
LD
LD
TT
Rubens and van Dyck among Jagdschloss Grunewald; at the

TE
HE LLE
ES
ME
ME
ST
OL
TR
O
RA
IST
IST
AS
NZ
NZ
SS
others. In the east wing is the crossroads you should take

ER
ER
SE
HE
E
ST
ST
HO
HO
R.
R.
EICHHÖRNCHEN
EICHHÖRNCHEN
STEIG STEIG
small Waldmuseum, with the central avenue signposted
illustrations that depict forest “Wilmersdorf”. This leads
MORGENROT
MORGENROT
HSTRASSE
HSTRASSE
life. Following a fire, which through the forest and
destroyed the roof and other emerges on Pücklerstrasse.
REHKITZSTEIG
REHKITZSTEIG
parts of the building, the Passing modern de luxe villas
FRISCHLINGSSTEIG
FRISCHLINGSSTEIG Jagdschloss under went you continue straight on,
IG IG
extensive renovation work and then turn right into
WILDEN TENSTE
WILDEN TENSTE
and reopened in 2009. Fohlenweg, then turn right
WEG
WEG
TER STEI
TERG STEIG
From the palace you again into Bussardsteig, at the
GOLDFINK
GOLDFINK
FISCHOT
FISCHOT
LUCHSWEG
LUCHSWEG
G TEIG
TEIERS
BIBERSBIB
proceed further along the end of which is the Brücke-
RSTR.RSTR.
edge to Forsthaus Paulsborn Museum (see p184) w. It is
PÜCKLE
PÜCKLE
q (see p242). This picturesque also worth looking at the
FOHLENWEG
FOHLENWEG
building was constructed in exhibition of sculptures by

ww
Pücklerteich
Pücklerteich 1905, according to a design by Bernhard Heiliger arranged in
BU B
SSA USSA
KÄU KÄURDST RDST
ZCH ZCH EIG EIG
EN E
STE NSTE
Friedrich Wilhelm Göhre. The the garden surrounding the
IG IG
entire building is maintained villa at Käuzchensteig No. 8.
in the style of a hunting lodge From here you continue to
with decorations that reflect Clayallee, where buses on the
CLA LLEE
E
LLE
hunting themes. During the No. 115 route operate.

YA
YA
CLA
Tips for Walkers

Beginning of the walk:
Grunewald S-Bahn station.
Distance: 3 km (1.8 miles).
Duration: 2.5–3 hours.
Getting there: S-Bahn line
3 or 7; U-Bahn Oskar-Helene-
Heim; Bus 115.
Museum: Jagdschloss
0 metres 400
Grunewald. Tel 813 35 97.
0 yards 400 Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Thu–
Sun; Nov–Mar: guided tours only,
11am, 1pm & 3pm Sat, Sun & hols.
Stops: The Grunewald area has
numerous cafés and restaurants,
Key
including Forsthaus Paulsborn
Suggested route Restaurant in the Forsthaus Paulsborn near Jagdschloss Grunewald.
near Jagdschloss Grunewald
Travellers’
needs
Where to Stay 218–225

Where to Eat and Drink 226–249
Shopping in Berlin 250–259
Entertainment in Berlin 260–273
Children’s Berlin 274–275
218  TRAVELLER’S NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Berlin has a good selection of hotels to repairs. The area around Grunewald is an
suit any budget. Many of the expensive oasis of peace that will guarantee a good
hotels belong to well-known international rest. From the numerous hotels in Berlin,
chains, but you can also find reasonably this section highlights some of the best;
priced rooms in and around the centre. these have been categorized according
There are good-quality mid-range hotels to themes, location and price. Details about
in eastern Berlin and no lack of luxurious each of the hotels can be found on pages
hotels either, particularly around Unter den 222–5 and information about alternative
Linden. Many of the more affordable hotels in ways of spending a night can be found on
the western part of Berlin require urgent pages 220–21.
(now called Hotel Adlon fairs can push up prices. Many

Kempinski Berlin), Regent and more luxurious hotels offer
Hotel de Rome, situated in the weekend discounts and often,
western part of Mitte around if you just turn up without a
Unter den Linden, are the most reservation, you can find
luxurious. In the eastern part of yourself a good deal. If you
this area, around Alexanderplatz, intend to stay for an extended
the hotels are more reasonably period of time, try to negotiate
priced but still offer good- a better rate. Many hotels offer
quality rooms. discounts if you book ahead
Grunewald is an oasis of peace via their website.
far from the bustle of Berlin.
There is the luxurious Schloss-
hotel Berlin, as well as cosy pen- Hidden Extras
sions and little hotels, some set In Germany, taxes are included
The elegant lobby of the Hotel Adlon in 19th-century villas and palaces. in hotel room rates, but you are
Kempinski Berlin (see p225) If you don’t mind staying expected to tip for any additional
outside the centre of Berlin, you services, such as bringing
Where to Look should head for Neukölln. Here, luggage to the room or booking
There are a few areas in Berlin close to Treptower Park, is the a theatre ticket. Hotels from the
with large concentrations of enormous Estrel – the largest Dorint chain are an exception:
hotels. In each area there is hotel in Germany. they provide a range of services
usually at least one luxury hotel (such as free bicycle hire) at no
as well as several more affordable additional cost.
places. In Charlottenburg, Hotel Prices There is also no hard-and-fast
around Kurfürstendamm and Hotel prices in Berlin do not rule about breakfast: it is best to
Tauentzienstrasse, are well-known alter much with the season ask if it is included in the price
hotels, such as the Kempinski but, major events and trade when making a reservation.
Hotel Bristol Berlin, Savoy, Palace
Berlin, Waldorf Astoria and the
Steigenberger. Bear in mind that
this part of Berlin was severely
damaged during World War II
and the majority of these hotels
occupy modern buildings;
hotels in old buildings, like the
Brandenburger Hof, are a rarity.
Inexpensive hotels and pensions
can be found in the side streets
off the main road, but ask to see
the rooms before you decide.
Good hotels are also situated
in the east part of Tiergarten,
around Lützowufer.
The most luxurious hotels
can be found in eastern Berlin,
where many first-class hotels
occupy lavishly restored historic
landmark buildings. The Adlon Swimming pool at the Hotel de Rome (see p225)
Galeries Lafayette, Friedrichstrasse
W H E R E TO S TAY  219
make sure you take in fluids and

vitamins (usually offered in the
form of water and lemon slices).
Hotel spas, such as those
at the Grand Hyatt, Hotel de
Rome and Hotel Intercontinental,
are exceptional. In winter,
try the Badeschiff Arena, a
sauna and swimming pool
complex built on pontoons
on the Spree river (see p272).
How to Book
You can book a room in Berlin
One of the artist-decorated rooms in the Arte Luise Kunsthotel (see p224) by telephone, email or online.
If you prefer, you can use the
Most Berlin hotels have their wear a swimsuit. Guests should city’s tourist service Berlin
own parking spaces, but rates be prepared to only wear towels Tourismus & Kongress GmbH
are sometimes exorbitant. Ask and for other sauna users to be (see p221), www.visitberlin.de.
about telephone charges before in the nude. In fact, wearing This company can book hotels
using the phone in your room swimsuits in sauna areas is for you throughout Berlin.
and check the exchange rates often considered rude and When making a reservation
before using this service. Items unhygienic, particularly in be prepared to give your credit
from the minibar and paid- Finnish or steam saunas, as card details.
television channels can also well as in whirlpools. Spa If you are already in Berlin and
turn out to be surprisingly etiquette usually also calls would like to find a comfortable
costly. Wi-Fi is available at most for silence in the room. In dry room, your best option is to
hotels; however, you may be Finnish saunas, an “Aufguss”, the go to one of the large tourist
charged for using the Internet. repeated infusion of fresh herbs information bureaux. Some of
and heat is usually announced. the best of these are situated in
When entering a steam sauna, the Neues Kranzler-Eck, at the
Facilities clean the seat before you sit Brandenburg Gate and at
There is no standardized system down. There is usually a water Hauptbahnhof (see p221).
of categorizing hotels by stars hose at the entrance for this
in Germany, although the price purpose. After 8–15 minutes
of a room usually reflects the in the sauna, shower or rinse Private Rooms
quality. Small hotels usually off with ice-cold water (the cold- Bed-and-breakfast-style
include breakfast – typically water bath is only suitable for accommodation is not
rolls, jam, chocolate spread, the physically fit). Rest and then particularly popular in Berlin,
cereal, cold meats, cheese and continue the cycle once or although this kind of service
coffee – but they will probably twice. Do not drink alcohol can be found in some of the
not have a restaurant and their when visiting a sauna, and residential districts far from
services are limited. Larger the city centre. You can obtain
hotels tend to provide a full information about them from
American buffet on top of the tourist information bureaux and
traditional German fare. the other organizations whose
If you are staying for a longer numbers are listed in the
period, consider an Aparthotel Directory (see p221).
(an apartment, complete with
a full kitchen), or a private
apartment (see www.craigslist. Travelling with Children
org/berlin or www.airbnb. Travelling with children in Berlin
com). This is a good idea if should not present a problem.
travelling in a small group. A cot can be requested in most
hotels, and there is usually no
extra charge for having a small
Saunas and Spas child in the room, although an
Many of the more expensive extra bed for an older child may
hotels are equipped with spa sometimes incur a cost. In better
and sauna facilities. These are hotels, a reliable babysitter can
usually unisex (though some be obtained at a few hours’
spas have women’s days) and it Conference room in the Hotel Villa notice. In hotel restaurants, high-
is very unusual for either sex to Kastania (see p225) chairs for children are standard.
220  TRAVELLER'S NEEDS
The comfortable lounge area at Riehmers Hofgarten (see p224)

Disabled Travellers The DJH (Landesverband Camping
Nearly all top-quality and luxury Berlin-Brandenburg), an Camping is a popular pastime
hotels are able to accommodate organization that belongs to throughout Germany, and
disabled travellers – at least one the International Youth Hostels the Deutscher Camping Club
entrance will have wheelchair Association, gives discounts to has a wealth of information
access and some rooms will all its members. Membership is about campsites, including
have specially adapted bath- usually inexpensive and you those independently run, in
rooms. Unfortunately, the will have to join to stay at a and around Berlin. Most of
situation in mid-range and hostel. The DJH has hostels in these are open all year round.
lower standard hotels is not as different locations throughout Campsites in Berlin are,
promising; special equipment Berlin. There are also many for the most part, not very
is a rarity. In very old buildings, independent youth hostels close to the city centre. Some
there may not be an elevator. and hotels for students in worth seeking out are DCC-
The Hotel Mondial (see p223), Berlin that do not belong to Gatow, which offers a quiet
located near Kurfürstendamm, any organization. You can find setting, DCC-Kladow, located
is recommended for disabled them at www.hostelworld.com. on the edge of a wood with
travellers. It has many facilities The type of accommodation access to a lake, and Camping-
for wheelchair users in all its usually consists of dormitory- platz Krossinsee which has
public rooms and has as many style rooms with bunk beds. an adventure playground,
as 22 bedrooms equipped for There is often a communal making it especially popular
people with special needs. bathroom on each floor and with families with children.
a kitchen is usually available The majority of people
for cooking your own meals. staying at campsites are
Deposits Most youth hostels have a young, particularly during
In many Berlin hotels, a deposit dining room where breakfast Oktoberfest (see p52) and in
may be requested either when and a hot evening meal are June, when the Christopher
reserving the room or upon served. Some youth hostels Street Day Parade takes place
checking in at the hotel. A credit are closed during the day, (see p51). During these times
card is the most common way allowing no access to the some campsites can be very
to secure a room over the rooms; confirm this in advance. busy and noisy.
telephone. Otherwise, be
prepared to use cash to pay
about 20 to 40 per cent of the
price for one night’s stay. The
amount you pay as a deposit
should always be credited to
the final bill. In some smaller
hotels or pensions, don’t be
surprised if you are asked to pay
for your first night’s accommo-
dation in full on arrival.
Youth Hostels
It is easy to find inexpensive
accommodation in Berlin. Entrance to Aletto Kudamm (see p222)
W H E R E TO S TAY  221
Organized Youth Groups

Berlin has a large base of
accommodation for organized
youth groups. Most of these are
hostel-style accommodation
on the outskirts of the city. They
were established not only for
the purpose of school trips
but also for children from West
Berlin; until the unification of
Germany in 1990, it was difficult
for youth groups to organize
trips to the countryside so
they had to opt for trips to the
Grunewald instead. Information Room with period furnishings in Pension Funk (see p222)
about availability and bookings
is offered by Berlin Tourismus according to theme – budget, apartments are also listed. What
& Kongress GmbH and by business, charming, boutique they all have in common is that,
larger tourist information centres, and luxury – and then alpha- regardless of category and
such as at Neues Kranzler Eck. betically by area. Most are spread price, they have something
across the main tourist areas, special to offer.
although some that are further Where a hotel has an
Recommended Hotels afield are included if they offer exceptional feature, such as
The hotels on pages 222–5 are particularly good value for great-value rates or spectacular
a selection of the best hotels money, facilities, service or views, it has been highlighted
in Berlin. They are first listed charm. B&Bs, guesthouses and as a DK Choice.
DIRECTORY
Information and Private Rooms Disabled Jugendherberge
Booking Travellers Ernst Reuter
Bed & Breakfast Hermsdorfer Damm 48,
Berlin Tourismus & in Berlin Berliner Behinderten 13467 Berlin.
Kongress GmbH verband Tel 404 16 10.
Tel 44 05 05 82.
Am Karlsbad 11, Berlin. Jägerstrasse 63d,
∑ bed-and-breakfast- 10117 Berlin-Mitte.
Map 14 D1. Camping
berlin.de Tel 204 38 47.
Tel 25 00 23 33.
∑ bbv-ev.de Campingplatz
∑ visitberlin.de Coming Home
Krossinsee
Tel 21 79 800. Der Landes
Brandenburg Gate Wernsdorfer Str. 38,
∑ coming-home.org beauftragte für
Pariser Platz, 12527 Berlin. Tel 675 86
Menschen mit 87. Open Nov–Mar:
southern building. Erste Mitwohn Behinderung 9am–5pm; Apr–Oct:
Map 8 E3. zentrale Oranienstrasse 106, 10997
8am–8pm; Jul–Aug:
Open 9:30am–6pm daily Sybelstrasse 53, Berlin. Tel 90 28 29 17.
8am–9pm.
(to 7pm in summer). 10629 Berlin-
Youth Hostels DCCCampingplatz
Hauptbahnhof Charlottenburg. BerlinGatow
Europaplatz 1, level 0, Map 11 A2. DJH (Landesverband Kladower Damm 213–17,
northern entrance. Tel 324 30 31. BerlinBrandenburg) 14089 Berlin. Tel 365 43
Map 8 D1. Service centre: Kluckstrasse 40. Open Apr–Sep: 6am–
∑ mitwohn.com
3, 10785 Berlin. 1pm, 3–10pm; Oct–Mar:
Fine and mine Tel 264 95 20. 8am–1pm & 3–9pm.
Potsdam Tourismus Neue Schönhauser Str. 20, Open 8am–6pm Mon–Fri.
Service DCCCampingplatz
10178 Berlin. Hostelworld BerlinKladow
Am Neuen Markt 1. ∑ hostelworld.com
Map 9 C2. Krampnitzer Weg 111,
Tel (0331) 27 55 88 99.
Tel 23 55 120. Jugendherberge 14089 Berlin. Tel 365 27
∑ potsdamtourismus. 97. Open Apr–Sep: 6am–
∑ fineandmine.com Berlin am Wannsee
de 1pm & 3–10pm; Oct–Mar:
Badeweg 1, 14129 Berlin.
Tourist Information Wohnwitz Tel 803 20 34. 8am–1pm & 3–9pm.
Neues Kranzler-Eck, Holsteinische Strasse 55, Deutscher Camping
Jugendherberge
Kurfürstendamm 22. 10717 Berlin-Wilmersdorf. Club
Berlin International
Map 12 D1. Map 11 C4, C5. Kluckstrasse 3, 10785 Kladower Damm 207–213,
Open 10am–9:30pm Tel 861 82 22. Berlin. Map 13 C1. 14089 Berlin. Tel 218 60 71.
Mon–Sat. ∑ wohnwitz.com Tel 747 68 79 10. ∑ dccberlin.de
222 І TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Where to Stay
Price Guide
Budget DK Choice Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Circus €€ high season for a standard double room,
Around Unter den Rosenthaler Strasse 1, 10119 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Linden Tel 200 039 39 Map 9 B1 €

€€
up to €80
€80–€180
∑ circus-berlin.de
City Hostel Berlin € This fun hotel often wins €€€ over €180
Glinkastrasse 5, 10117 accolades for its high standards
Tel 238 866 850 Map 8 F5 of service and unbeatable Around
∑ cityhostel-berlin.com value for money. The location Kurfürstendamm
A simple hostel with modern on Rosenthaler Platz is a
rooms with en-suite baths. big plus for those drawn to Air in Berlin Hotel €
Breakfast and Wi-Fi are included. the city’s nightlife. Circus Ansbacher Strasse 6, 10787
There is a great terrace bar and also offers guests numerous Tel 212 99 20 Map 12 F1
a games room. extras, from bike rentals to ∑ hotelairinberlin.de
rickshaw tours and baby-sitting. This three-star hotel has modern
Enjoy the elaborate breakfast comfortable rooms, many with a
East of the Centre spread, or a coffee at the balcony or terrace.
City Stay € Circus Cafe.
Rosenstrasse 16, 10178 Aletto Kudamm €
Tel 236 240 31 Map 9 C2 Hardenbergstrasse 21, 10623
∑ citystay.de Tel 233 21 41 00 Map 6 D5
Enjoy loft-style rooms and the Tiergarten ∑ aletto.de
lobby bar here, and feast upon Hotel am This simple hotel offers a
an elaborate breakfast spread. Schloss Bellevue € multitude of leisure activities
Paulstrasse 3, 10557 and opportunities to socialize.
Wombat’s City Hostel € Tel 391 12 27 Map 7 B2
Alte Schönhauser Strasse 2, 10119 ∑ hotelamschlossbellevue.de Hotel Pension Fasanenhaus €
Tel 847 108 20 Map 9 C1 Small, cosy hotel with innovative Fasanenstrasse 73, 10719
∑ wombats-hostels.com rooms decorated by a young Tel 881 67 13 Map 12 D1/2
Popular with backpackers, this local graffiti artist. ∑ fasanenhaus.de
lively hostel has a mix of dorms as A family-friendly hotel on the
well as a rooftop terrace. Motel One Berlin Bellevue € second floor of a charming
Paulstrasse 21, 10557 historical building with cosy rooms.
Tel 390 63 340 Map 7 B3
North of the Centre ∑ motel-one.com Hotel Pension Kürfurst €–€€
A&O Berlin Hauptbahnhof € This welcoming, modern hotel is Bleibtreustrasse 34/35, 10707
Lehrter Strasse 11, 10557 located in a residential area and Tel 885 68 20 Map 11 B2
Tel 809 47 51 09 Map 7 C1 is close to the Tiergarten. ∑ kurfuerst.com
∑ aohostels.com Beautiful Art Nouveau mansion
The hostel has dorms, singles and with generously sized rooms that
doubles (with private showers Kreuzberg are tastefully furnished.
available), and a comfortable Three Little Pigs
lounge area. Pet-friendly. Hostel Berlin € Pension Funk €
Stresemannstrasse 66, 10963 Fasanenstrasse 69, 10719
Generator Mitte € Tel 263 958 80 Map 14 F1 Tel 882 71 93 Map 12 D2
Oranienburger Strasse 65, 10117 ∑ three-little-pigs.de ∑ hotel-pensionfunk.de
Tel 921 037 680 Housed inside an old convent Set inside a historic 20th-century
∑ generatorhostels.com building in a vibrant, multi- town house, Pension Funk has
Modern hostel with dorms, cultural area. Free parking. spacious rooms and period decor.
singles and doubles with private
baths. It has a café and bar, and
bikes are available for hire.
Hotel Albrechtshof €
Albrechtstrasse 8, 10117
Tel 30 88 60 Map 8 F2
∑ hotel-albrechtshof.de
A conveniently located and
good-value hotel with tasteful
rooms, a garden, a restaurant and
rooftop views.
Meininger City Hotel €

Ella-Trebe-Strasse 9, 10557
Tel 983 210 73 Map 8 D1
∑ meiningerhotels.com
This hotel has modern, functional
rooms with free Wi-Fi and a games
room. Excellent transport links. Bold interior design in Circus
W H E R E TO S TAY І 2 2 3
Around Schloss Tiergarten, Novotel is a large

Charlottenburg hotel offering four-star amenities.
Econtel Hotel € Hotel Abion Spreebogen €€

Sömmeringstrasse 24–26, 10589 Alt Moabit 99, 10559
Tel 34 68 10 Map 5 A2 Tel 39 92 00 Map 6 F2
∑ amber-hotels.de ∑ abion-hotel.de
Practical, well-run hotel in a quiet This slick hotel is great for
residential district; the X9 bus to corporate travellers, with
Tegel airport stops right outside. excellent spa services available.
Leonardo Hotel Berlin €–€€ Hotel Tiergarten €€

Wilmersdorferstrasse 32, 10589 Alt-Moabit 89, 10559
Tel 755 43 10 Map 4 F4 Tel 39 98 96 Map 6 F1
∑ leonardo-hotels.com ∑ hotel-tiergarten.de
A centrally located hotel offering Here you'll find bright, spacious
modern, well-appointed rooms rooms set in a 19th-century
with private bathrooms. The plush and inviting lobby of Derag apartment block and a great
Livinghotel Henriette breakfast buffet.
Schlosspark-Hotel €–€€
Heubnerweg 2a, 14059 Meliá Hotel €€
Tel 326 90 30 Map 4 D2 Friedrichstrasse 103, 10117 Around
∑ schlossparkhotel.de Tel 206 079 00 Map 8 F3 Kurfürstendamm
The pleasant, modern rooms ∑ meliaberlin.com
of this hotel have a balcony or This Spanish chain hotel is Mondial €–€€
terrace overlooking Schlosspark. perfectly located for major sights Kurfürstendamm 47, 10707
and has plush, comfortable Tel 88 41 10 Map 11 B2
rooms and a fully-equipped gym. ∑ hotel-mondial.com
Further Afield Rooms are spacious and
ArtHotel Connection €–€€ pleasantly decorated. There are
Fuggerstrasse 33, 10777 East of the Centre facilities for the disabled.
Tel 210 21 88 00 Map 12 F2 Derag Livinghotel
∑ arthotel-connection.de Henriette €€ Ellington Hotel €€
Offering great service, ArtHotel Neue Rossstrasse 13, 10179 Nürnberger Strasse 50–5, 10789
is a gay-friendly hotel set inside Tel 246 009 00 Map 9 C4 Tel 68 31 50 Map 12 E2
an Art Nouveau building. ∑ deraghotels.de ∑ ellington-hotel.com
A reputable chain hotel offering A historic 19th-century building
East Side Hotel € cosy rooms, classy decor and with superior double rooms,
Mühlenstrasse 6, 10243 fantastic service. the Ellington Hotel is a jazz-
Tel 29 38 33 themed establishment.
∑ eastsidecityhotel.de
Offering single, double and twin North of the Centre H10 Kudamm €€
rooms in a historic building and Mercure Hotel Berlin City €–€€ Joachimstaler Strasse 31, 10719
an excellent on-site restaurant. Invalidenstrasse 38, 10115 Tel 322 92 23 00 Map 12 D2
Tel 30 82 60 Map 1 A5 ∑ hotelh10berlinkudamm.com
Michelberger Hotel €–€€ ∑ accorhotels.com Set inside a converted 19th-
Warschauer Strasse 39/40, 10243 A modern, centrally located hotel century school building, the
Tel 297 785 90 with comfortable three-star modern H10 Kudamm has a
∑ michelbergerhotel.com rooms and facilities. beauty and fitness centre on site.
With quirky yet comfortable
rooms, this hotel has a friendly Adina Apartment Hotels €€
vibe. Enjoy live music in the bar. Platz vor dem Neuen Tor 6, 10115 Further Afield
Tel 200 03 20 Map 8 E1 Andel’s €€
Hotel Rotdorn €€ ∑ adina.eu Landsberger Allee 106, 10369
Heerstrasse 36, 14055 Well-furnished studios and Tel 453 05 30 Map 10 F2
Tel 300 992 92 Map 3 A5 apartments equipped with ∑ vi-hotels.com
∑ hotel-rotdorn.de modern amenities. The award-winning, British-
A peaceful family-run hotel set in designed Andel’s offers great
a grand 1920s mansion with Maritim proArte Hotel €€ views of Berlin. Chic and
decent-sized rooms. Friedrichstrasse 151, 10117 spacious rooms.
Tel 30 203 35 Map 8 F3
∑ maritim.de
A large, contemporary hotel, the
Business Maritim proArte has clean and Charming Hotels
generous sized rooms.
Around Unter den Linden North of the Centre
Arcotel John F €€ Honigmond Garden Hotel €€
Werderscher Markt 11, 10117 Tiergarten Invalidenstrasse 122, 10115
Tel 405 04 60 Map 9 B4 Novotel am Tiergarten €–€€ Tel 284 455 77 Map 1 A5
A modern hotel with large Strassse des 17 Juni 106, 10623 ∑ honigmond-berlin.de
rooms and an unbeatable Tel 60 03 50 Map 6 E4 The rooms here are decorated in
location. The service and food ∑ accorhotels.com the colonial style. There’s also a
here are excellent. Located in the middle of secluded courtyard garden.
For more information on types of hotels see pp218–21

224 І TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Jurine €€ Axel €€ Schloss Hotel im Grunewald €€

Schwedter Strasse 15, 10119 Lietzenburger Strasse 13/15, 10789 Brahmsstrasse 10, 14193
Tel 443 29 90 Map 2 D4 Tel 210 028 93 Map 12 F2 Tel 89 58 40
∑ hotel-jurine.de ∑ axelhotels.com ∑ schlosshotelberlin.com
Located in a quiet neighbourhood, Axel was designed for the gay A luxurious mansion offering
Jurine is a family-run hotel that community but is open to all. It opulent rooms, superb service, a
offers a healthy breakfast spread. offers great views from the skybar. restaurant, bar and cigar lounge.
Myer’s Hotel €€
Metzer Strasse 26, 10405 DK Choice
Tel 44 01 41 04 Map 2 E5 Louisa’s Place €€ Boutique
∑ myershotels.de Ku’damm 160, 10709
Classy with a touch of elegance, Tel 63 10 30 Map 11 A2 Around Unter den Linden
here you can unwind in the tea ∑ louisas-place.net Cosmo €€
room on the outdoor terrace. This modernized and well- Spittelmarkt 13, 10117
furnished 1900s apartment Tel 585 822 22 Map 9 B5
building retains all its original ∑ designhotels.com
Tiergarten features. The suites are lavish and Cosmo is a haven of tranquillity
Hansablick €–€€ vary in size while the spa and amid the bustle of the Mitte. The
Flotowstrasse 6, 10555 heated indoor pool are relaxing. rooms are sleek and comfortable.
Tel 390 48 00 Map 6 E3
∑ hansablick.de Hotel Gendarm Nouveau €€
It’s worth paying a little extra Mark Hotel Meineke €€ Charlottenstrasse 61, 10117
here for one of the deluxe double Meinekestrasse 10, 10719 Tel 206 06 60 Map 9 A4
rooms. Free Internet in the lounge. Tel 0800 101 08 80 Map 12 D2 ∑ hotel-gendarm-berlin.de
∑ berlinmarkhotels.de A small hotel with tastefully
This charming 19th-century furnished rooms, Gendarm
DK Choice town house is furnished with Nouveau offers great service.
Altberlin €€ modern amenities and can be
Potsdamer Strasse 67, 10785 found right next to Ku’damm.
Tel 26 06 70 Map 13 C1 East of the Centre
∑ altberlin-hotel.de Arte-Luise Kunsthotel €€
All 50 rooms at this cosy hotel Further Afield Luisenstrasse 19, 10117
converted from a town house Hotel Pension Enzian €–€€ Tel 28 44 80 Map 8 E2
are furnished in authentic period Hortensienstrasse 28, 12203 ∑ luise-berlin.com
style. The dining is excellent. Tel 832 50 75 The rooms here are individually
∑ hotel-pension-enzian.de decorated by local artists and the
A charming hotel with spacious on-site restaurant is excellent.
rooms near the Botanical Garden.
Kreuzberg Excellent on-site restaurant. Lux 11 €€
Hotel Johann €€ Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 9–13, 10178
Johanniterstrasse 8, 10961 Ostel Hostel € Tel 936 28 00 Map 10 C2
Tel 225 07 40 Map 15 B3 Wriezener Karree 5, 10243 ∑ lux-eleven.com
∑ hotel-johann-berlin.de Tel 257 686 60 Lux 11 is a minimalist hotel with
The bright, sunny rooms here have ∑ ostel.eu clean, bright and spacious rooms
barrel-vaulted ceilings. Breakfast Set in a 1980s apartment block, and apartments. Fantastic service.
is served in the garden in summer. this fun hotel recreates East Berlin
decor of the 1970s and 1980s.
Riehmers Hofgarten €€ North of the Centre
Yorckstrasse 83, 10965
Tel 780 988 00 Map 14 F4
∑ riehmers-hofgarten.de DK Choice
A grand mansion set in 19th- Ackselhaus €€
century courtyards with elegant Belforter Strasse 21, 10405
decor and modern amenities. Tel 443 376 33 Map 2 E4
∑ ackselhaus.de
A beautifully restored 19th-
Around Kurfürstendamm century property with lots of
Art Nouveau €–€€ charm and a lovely breakfast
Leibnizstrrasse 59, 10629 garden. The rooms and suites
Tel 327 74 40 Map 11 A1 are individually designed and
∑ hotelartnouveau.de decorated with flair. There is
A spacious, tastefully furnished also a special honeymoon suite.
hotel. Rooms and suites have Relax in the lovely Thai garden.
stucco ceilings and wooden floors.
25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin €€ Casa Camper €€€

Budapester Strasse 40, 10629 Weinmeisterstrasse 1, 10178
Tel 0800 374 683 57 Map 12 E1 Tel 200 034 10 Map 9 C1
∑ 25hours-hotels.com ∑ casacamper.com
This stylish hotel is in the listed A hotel with sleek design and
Bikinihaus building. The rooftop Axel is one of the premier gay hotels spacious rooms, an excellent on-
restaurant boasts great views. in Berlin site restaurant and free Wi-Fi.
For key to prices see p222

W H E R E TO S TAY І 2 2 5
Tiergarten Propeller Island City Lodge €€

Mandala €€–€€€ Albrecht-Achilles-Strasse 58, 10709
Potsdamer Strasse 3, 10785 Tel 891 90 16
Tel 590 05 00 00 Map 8 D5 ∑ propeller-island.com
∑ themandala.de Themed rooms, whimsically
The luxurious rooms, suites and designed and furnished in a rather
penthouses at Mandala offer offbeat manner. Good service.
stunning views, along with fine
amenities and services. Villa Kastania €€
Kastanienallee 20, 14052
Tel 300 00 20 Map 3 A5
Around Kurfürstendamm ∑ villakastania.com
Artemisia Frauen Hotel €–€€ Rooms are decorated with great
Brandenburgische Strasse 18, 10707 attention to detail. Spa services
Tel 860 93 20 Map 11 A3 are available.
∑ frauenhotel-berlin.de
A women-only hotel with a
pleasant roof terrace. Great
breakfast spread. Luxury Hotels
Nhow Berlin’s striking and quirky interior
Bleibtreu €–€€ design
Bleibtreustrasse 31, 10707 Around Unter den Linden
Tel 88 47 40 Map 11 B2 Grand Hyatt €€–€€€
∑ bleibtreu.com Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2, 10785
Well-equipped rooms with pine- DK Choice Tel 255 312 34 Map 8 D5
wood furnishings. Deli-restaurant, Hotel Adlon Kempinski ∑ berlin.grand.hyatt.de
fitness centre and on-site spa. Berlin €€€ A large business hotel, the Grand
Unter den Linden 77, 10117 Hyatt has comfortable rooms and
Askanischer Hof €€ Tel 226 110 Map 8 F3 a charming sun-bathing terrace.
Kurfürstendamm 53, 10707 ∑ kempinski.com
Tel 881 80 33 Map 11 B2 The Adlon has won numerous
∑ askanischer-hof.de plaudits for its impeccable Around Kurfürstendamm
Art Deco features and glitzy service, indulgent luxury and Savoy €€
interiors. Rooms vary in size but Michelin-starred dining. It offers Fasanenstrasse 9–10, 10623
all are decorated with antiques. exquisitely decorated rooms and Tel 31 10 30 Map 12 D1
a huge spa ideal for pampering. ∑ hotel-savoy.com
Q Hotel €€ The historic Savoy is famous for
Knesebeckstrasse 67, 10623 its refined decor as well as its
Tel 810 06 60 Map 11 C1 Hotel de Rome €€€ well-stocked bar.
∑ hotel-q.com Behrenstrasse 37, 10117 Map 8 F4
Surprisingly affordable designer Tel 460 60 90 Swissôtel €€
hotel aimed mainly at corporate ∑ roccofortecollection.com Augsburger Strasse 44, 10789
travellers. Futuristic decor. A classy five-star hotel with chic Tel 22 01 00 Map 12 D1
furnishings and alfresco dining on ∑ swissotel.de
Dormero Hotel the rooftop terrace. Geared mainly towards business
Berlin Ku'damm €€€ travellers, the Swissôtel has large,
Eislebener Strasse 14, 10789 Regent €€€ well-lit rooms and warm service.
Tel 21 40 50 Map 12 D2 Charlottenstrasse 49, 10117
∑ brandenburger-hof.com Tel 203 38 Map 9 A4 Waldorf Astoria €€
A charming luxury hotel with airy ∑ regenthotels.com Hardenbergstrasse 28, 10623
rooms, chic decor and a soothing A celebrity magnet, this hotel Tel 814 00 00 Map 12 D1
Japanese winter garden. boasts a Michelin two-star restau- ∑ placeshilton.com
rant and other luxurious amenities. Located in the Zoofenster Tower,
the rooms in the Waldorf Astoria
Further Afield offer panoramic views and
North of the Centre feature marble bathrooms.
Soho House €€€
DK Choice Torstrasse 1, 10119 Sofitel Berlin
Nhow Berlin €€ Tel 405 04 40 Map 10 E1 Kurfürstendamm €€€
Stralauer Allee 3, 10245 ∑ sohohouseberlin.de Augsburger Strasse 41, 10789
Tel 290 29 90 A variety of loft sizes are Tel 800 99 90 Map 12 D1
∑ nhow-hotels.com available at this prestigious ∑ sofitel.com
An amazing cantilevered private members club. This sleek high-rise hotel is
structure jutting out over the found in a great location.
Spree, this offbeat hotel will Unwind in the solarium or sauna.
delight all lovers of design Tiergarten
and music, which are the Grand Hotel Esplanade €€ Das Stue €€€
dominant themes. The rooms Lützowufer 15, 10785 Drakestrasse 1, 10787
are decorated in eclectic colour Tel 25 47 80 Map 13 A1 Tel 311 72 20 Map 6 F5
schemes. Nhow offers guitar and ∑ esplanade.de ∑ das-stue.com
keyboard loans to rooms. There’s Excellent amenities are offered Set inside a former embassy
also a rooftop sound studio. at this plush hotel, conveniently building by Tiergarten, Das Stue
located in Tiergarten. has a sophisticated Nordic design.
For more information on types of hotels see pp218–21

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Given that Berlin is so cosmopolitan, you will and served in large portions. Wherever you
find a wider range of restaurants here than are in Berlin, you won’t have to travel far to
in any other city in Germany. International find somewhere to eat – every area has its
cuisines represented include Indian, Greek, own cluster of restaurants, cafés and bars,
Chinese, Thai and Turkish, as well as Alsatian covering a range of styles and prices. Some
and Cambodian. Renowned chefs maintain of the best places are listed on pages 232–43.
high standards of international-style cuisine, These have been chosen for their delicious
some of whom have earned a Michelin star food and/or good value. The listings on
or two. There are also plenty of restaurants pages 244–9 will help those who would like
specializing in local dishes: the food can a bite to eat but want the more relaxed
be a little heavy, but it is usually very tasty setting of a café or bar.
What to Eat or the Brandenburg area

In the morning, nearly all surrounding Berlin. Lovers of
eateries, including those in most Italian cuisine can easily find
hotels, will offer a substantial a good pizzeria or a restaurant
breakfast. This usually consists serving regional Italian dishes.
of eggs, ham or cold cuts, and Fans of Oriental food can
different kinds of cheese. On choose between many Asian
Sundays, some places also serve national cuisines, a great variety
a German buffet-style brunch of which are situated along
(breakfast combined with Prenzlauer Berg and around
lunch) until 2pm. At lunchtime, Savignyplatz. Berlin also has
it’s easy to find an elaborate very good Mexican and Greek
salad or a bowl of steaming restaurants. Vegetarians can
soup almost anywhere. In easily find something suitable
addition, many restaurants may at most restaurants; vegetarian
also offer their standard menus restaurants are marked in the
Quarré, at the Hotel Adlon Kempinsky with slightly reduced prices. listings (see pp232–43).
(see p233) The options for an evening
meal are practically unlimited. In
Where to Go a restaurant serving traditional Prices and Tipping
Although good restaurants and German food, options may Menus, showing meals and their
cafés can be found all over Berlin, include a tasty pork knuckle prices, are usually on display
some of the best gourmet rest- or potato soup (see pp228–9). outside restaurants and cafés.
aurants tend to be located in In modern German restaurants, Prices can vary a great deal. It is
exclusive hotels, including Facil a new generation of chefs is possible to eat a three-course
in the Mandala (see p236) or putting a sophisticated twist meal, without alcohol, for €20,
Fischer’s Fritz in the Regent (see on traditional fare. There are also but in the centre of Berlin the
p232). Alternatively, some good several restaurants dedicated to price rises to €25–€30. In a
restaurants, such as the rustic the special cuisines of German top-notch establishment the
Zum Nuss-baum (see p233), can regions such as Bavaria, Swabia cost of a meal can be over €150.
also be found on quiet streets.
The largest concentrations
of restaurants are in a number
of well-known districts. In the
former West Berlin, for example,
the most famous restaurants are
clustered around Savignyplatz.
Good places to eat in the centre
can be found in and around
Oranienburger Strasse. One
of the top spots in Berlin,
popular with a younger crowd,
is Prenzlauer Berg, near Kollwitz-
platz. To the east, restaurants
in Kreuzberg (particularly along
Oranienstrasse) are among the
city’s busiest. These areas offer
a wide choice in style and price. Outside Oxymoron (see p235), in the Hackesche Höfe
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  227
room may be accessible on

the ground floor, the toilets
may be up or down stairs or
through a narrow corridor.
Children
Casual restaurants usually
welcome children, though this
may not be the case in more
upmarket establishments. Those
that do cater for children may
provide highchairs as well as
light dishes, particularly during
lunchtime. Some places will
offer a separate children’s menu
Dining al fresco at Dressler, Unter den with small portions. Children are
Linden (see p232) also allowed in pubs and bars.
The stylish Italian restaurant Bocca di
The price of alcohol varies as Bacco (see p232)
well, but the cheapest drink is Reading the Menu
beer. Although prices include Menus are often written out in Recommended
service and tax, many Germans German and English, and some Restaurants
will round up the bill. In more restaurants will provide menus The restaurants on pages 232–
expensive restaurants a 10 per in French as well. If you find 43 of this guide cover the range
cent tip is customary. Some yourself in a restaurant or bar of cuisine styles offered by
restaurants add “service not where the menu is hand- Berlin’s diverse restaurant scene.
included” to their menus and written, ask a waiter for help. They are listed by area, and
bills. Although it is not legal to Many restaurants offer a menu most can be found in the main
demand a tip, it is polite to leave of the day with seasonal dishes tourist districts, although there
some extra for the waiting staff. or the chef’s specials, which are are a number that merit a
always worth considering. special trip further afield. Within
these areas, they are listed
Eating Hours alphabetically in each of the
In general, cafés open at 10am Smoking three price categories; prices
and restaurants at noon; the Smoking is banned in all public vary to suit different budgets.
latter sometimes also close places, including restaurants, Where a restaurant is in some
between 3 and 6pm. There bars, pubs and clubs, but a way exceptional – perhaps
are a lot of places that stay handful of restaurants have for its excellent cooking, its
open late, sometimes until a separate smoking area or good-value menus or family-
2 or 3am. Some of the most room. In some parts of friendly facilities – it has been
expensive and best restaurants Berlin, such as Kreuzberg highlighted as a DK Choice.
are only open in the evening and Friedrichshain, the ban A visit to one of these will no
and may be closed on one day appears to have been ignored. doubt be memorable.
during the week as well.
Booking
In the most upmarket
restaurants, reservations are
usually required – in popular
places it is advisable to
book well in advance. For the
majority of good restaurants
it is necessary to book only for
Friday or Saturday evenings.
Disabled Diners
In order to avoid any problems
in advance, you should discuss
wheelchair access when
booking. Bear in mind, however,
that even though a dining The elegant interior of Facil (see p236)
The Flavours of Berlin

To treat your senses in Berlin, you need do nothing more than
stroll through the street markets, historic market halls and
speciality food shops. Spicy hot sausages such as Currywurst or
Thüringer will lure you into the traditional German butcheries.
The scent of freshly baked rolls and breads wafts from the
corner bakeries. Fresh herbs, typical German garden
vegetables such as red or green cabbage, and wild mushrooms
are spectacularly displayed. Freshwater fish from the region’s
many lakes and rivers glisten on their beds of ice; particularly Harzer Roller and
popular are pike-perch, eel, trout and even sweet river crabs. Emmenthaler cheeses
well as goose and birds of prey hard winters and generally

were (and remain) an integral inclement weather.
part of Berlin’s cuisine. Later,
in the 19th century, both
the evolving Prussian well- Bread and Potatoes
to-do and the working class There is an enormous variety
preferred hearty and simple of breads and rolls to be found
food over fine dining – not on Berlin’s menus. Many are
only because Berlin was then unique to the city, such as the
a comparatively poor city, but wholewheat and rye, dark,
also because of the long and crusty Schusterjungen
Wild mushrooms, one of the region’s Mehrkornbrötchen (mixed grain roll) Berliner Landbrot (mild rye bread)
most famous products Laugenbrötchen Graubrot
(salty sourdough (sourdough rye bread)
rolls) Semmel
Berlin’s Hearty Heritage (milk-dough roll)
Historically, Berlin has never
been a gourmet capital, and
neither has the surrounding,
rural Brandenburg region. The
Hohenzollern court focused
more on its army than on
culture and cuisine. But the
Great Electors were formidable
hunters, and game such as
wild boar, rabbit and duck, as Selection of typical German loaves and bread rolls
Local Dishes and Specialities

Berliners have many ways of preparing pork, making it the
most popular main dish. For Kasseler, created by Berlin
butcher Cassel in the late 19th
century, the meat is salted and
then dried before being served with
sauerkraut, mashed potatoes and
very spicy mustard. Berlin’s traditional
pork knuckle, also accompanied by
sauerkraut and potatoes, isn’t complete
without a portion of split pea purée
(called Erbspuree in Berlin). Pork sausages
include Currywurst – a post-World War II
invention by Berlin Imbiss (food stall) owner Hedwig Mueller –
Zanderfilet, or Havel-Zander,
which are served with a spicy sauce of curry, tomatoes and chili
is pan-fried pike-perch with a
along with a roll or French fries. You can find this filling snack
vegetable sauce and onions,
at Imbisse throughout the city.
served with mashed potatoes.
Berlin’s Fine-Dining
Revolution
With the city’s reunification
came a new international
influence, which gave birth to
many Michelin-starred and
other gourmet restaurants.
Restaurants often prepare Berlin
signature dishes with a more
healthy or an exotic twist, giving
traditional dishes a modern
Display of traditional German sausages in a Berlin butcher’s shop flavour. One of the Mark
Brandenburg’s most important
(“shoemaker’s boy”) or schrippen, boar or duck, are flavoured products, fresh wild mushrooms,
the cheap roll eaten daily at with fresh herbs such as dill such as Pfifferlinge or Steinpilze,
every meal. and parsley, and the famous figure prominently, and classic
Potatoes were introduced by Brandenburger Landente ingredients like sauerkraut,
Frederick the Great. They (Brandenburg country duck), cabbage and beet may be
appear at most German meals, stuffed with apples, onions paired with Mediterranean fish
alongside fish or meat or and herbs, slowly roasted and or Asian spices.
cooked in a broth for dishes coated with a honey-oil to
such as Kartoffelsuppe. make it perfectly crusty, is Best Local Food
once again a favourite on
Berlin menus. Restaurants: Altes Zollhaus
The Brandenburg (p236); Nante-Eck (p232); Lorenz
Influence Adlon Esszimmer (p232); Zur letz-
ten Instanz (p233); Dressler (p232).
Berlin’s restaurants only
rediscovered the region’s true Shops and markets:
heritage after the fall of the Marheineke-Markthalle; Turkish
Wall, absorbing culinary Market, Maybachufer, Markthalle
traditions from the Mark Neun; KaDeWe gourmet food
floor (p258); Rogacki Gourmet
Brandenburg, the suddenly
Centre (p258); Butter Lindner
re-accessible rural countryside
delicatessen chain.
surrounding Berlin with its
thick forests, rivers and lakes. Imbisse (food stalls):
Today, the fresh produce Konnopke (below train tracks,
provided by the region’s farms Eberswalder Strasse subway,
Prenzlauer Berg); Ku’damm 195
are an integral part of Berlin’s
Imbiss, Kurfürstendamm;
cuisine. Old recipes have
Currywurstbude, Wittenbergplatz,
returned to modern kitchens. Charlottenburg.
Freshwater fish like pike- Fresh vegetables from the Mark
perch, or game such as wild Brandenberg region
Kasseler Nacken is salted Berliner Leber is veal or pork Brandenburger Landente is

and dried pork served with liver on a bed of mashed stuffed duck served with red
sauerkraut or green cabbage potatoes, with fried onions cabbage and potato dumplings
and mashed potatoes. and pan-fried apple slices. or mashed potatoes.
What to Drink in Berlin

In Berlin, as throughout the rest of Germany, beer is
the most widely drunk alcoholic beverage. There are
no productive vineyards around Berlin, but wines
from the Rhine and Mosel regions are always popular.
As an apéritif, or with pork dishes, Berliners often
enjoy a shot of rye vodka (Korn), sometimes flavoured
with herbs. With dessert, a glass of herbal liqueur
often fits the bill. A typical bar in Berlin
Lager (Pilsner)
Berliners drink beer on every occasion, and
Germany’s many beers are some of the best and
purest in the world. Some of the best-known Berlin
breweries are Schultheiss, Berliner Kindl, Berliner
Pils and Engelhardt, but beers brewed in other
parts of Germany are just as popular. Although beer
is available in all sorts of venues and “Ein Bier, bitte”
can be heard in pubs, cafés and restaurants, it is
worth experiencing the atmosphere of an old-
fashioned beerhouse, or Kneipe. The most highly
esteemed beer is draught beer, drawn from the
cask (vom Fass) and poured slowly into
tall glasses. Pouring in a thin trickle is
essential to achieve a thick head of
foam, and a good barman will take a
few minutes to fill your glass. Berliners
drink mostly lager (Pils), but other
beers are also popular.
Pilsner beers from Berlin breweries
Other Beers
In addition to the usual light, Pilsner-type beers, Berlin’s
breweries, many of them small and independent, also
make a number of more adventurous brews. Dark,
sweetish beer, known as Schwarzbier or black beer, is
becoming more and more popular and has rather more
than the standard four per cent alcohol. Weizenbier is
A Brezel makes a
made from wheat rather than barley, and is usually
good snack with beer
served in half-litre (one pint) glasses wth a slice of
lemon. Another unusual drink is Bock, an especially
strong beer made with barley. Maibock is a special Strong, dark
version, available only in May. Bock beer
Berliner Weisse mit Schuss

A Berlin speciality, called Berliner Weisse mit
Schuss, is a light, newly fermented wheat beer
that continues fermenting in the bottle. On its
own, it is not very palatable as it is rather
watery and sour, but when mixed with
raspberry cordial it becomes fruity and
delicious. Mixing with sweet woodruff syrup
gives it a vivid green colour and a slightly
Berliner Weisse with medicinal flavour. Berliner Weisse mit Schuss is
Berliner Weisse, raspberry and served in large wine glasses with a straw, and
a light malted- woodruff cordials makes a very refreshing drink, particularly
wheat beer popular during the hot summer months.
Wine
No wine is produced around Berlin, as the climate is too cold for
vines, but a variety of wines from Germany’s southern and western
regions are available. The most famous are the white wines,
particularly those made from Riesling grapes. Most expensive are
those from the Rheingau region. The northern climate dictates that
most German wines are white, but lovers of red wine can try the
Rhine Assmanshausen Spätburgunder, made from Pinot Noir
grapes. Although there is no regional system of classification like
the French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, a national quality
control system divides German wines into three categories:
Tafelwein or table wine is the most basic; next comes
Qualitätswein, and the highest is Qualitätswein mit
Prädikat, which includes wines made from specially
selected grapes. Trocken means dry, halbtrocken means A prize-winning bottle
medium dry and süss means sweet. You can also find of German red wine
some very good sparkling wines known as Sekt.
Riesling from Schloss Vollrads
Other Alcoholic Beverages

Vodka is often drunk with more substantial meals,
particularly those based on pork. Especially
recommended is one of the rye vodkas, such as
Weizendoppelkorn, that are popular in Berlin. Many
establishments also serve brandies, known generically
as Weinbrand. In addition, various digestive liqueurs and
vodkas flavoured with plant extracts are quite popular,
particularly Kümmerling, Jägermeister and, a Berlin
favourite, Kaulzzdorferkräuter Likör. In many
restaurants you will come across a speciality
honey liqueur from east Prussia known as
Bärenfang. More of an acquired taste is
Goldwasser from Danzig, a traditional
Weizendoppelkorn Herbal Bitter-sweet herbal liqueur containing flakes of gold
rye digestive Jägermeister leaf. It is made according to a secret
vodka liqueur liqueur 16th-century German recipe.
Non-Alcoholic Cold Drinks

Although Berlin tap water is safe to drink, it is not usually served with restaurant
meals. If you want water you should order a bottle of mineral water (Mineralwasser)
adding “ohne Kohlensäure” if you prefer still water. A wide variety of
canned sparkling soft drinks, ubiquitous across Europe and the US,
are popular in Berlin. Fruit juices are also widely drunk and a wide
selection is available in every restaurant and café. Another popular
soft drink is Apfelschorle, apple juice mixed in equal proportions with
sparkling mineral water.
Apfelschorle
Coffee and Tea
Coffee is very popular in Berlin and is served in a variety of
ways. The most usual is filter coffee, served by the cup or the
pot, generally with condensed milk and sugar. If you prefer
something stronger and more aromatic you should go for an
espresso. It is also easy to enjoy a good cup of tea in Berlin,
herbal or otherwise. Germans drink a lot of herbal teas, two
of the most common being peppermint (Pfefferminztee) and
camomile (Kamillentee). If you want a cup of non-herbal tea,
Peppermint and camomile, you can make a point of ordering Schwarzen Tee. If you want
two widely available herbal teas milk with your tea, then ask for “Tee mit Milch”.
232  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Where to Eat and Drink

the changing photo and art Price Guide
Around Unter den exhibitions in the atrium. Try the Prices are based on a three-course
meal per person, including tax
Linden house speciality, Apfelstrudel, for
breakfast or elevenses. and service.
Das Meisterstück € € under €30
Traditional German Map 9 A5 Samâdhi €€ €€ €30–60
€€€ over €60
Hausvogteiplatz 3–4, 10117 South Asian Vegetarian Map 8 E4
Tel 558 725 62 Wilhelmstrasse 77, 10117
A cosy bar and restaurant with Tel 224 888 50 Dressler €€€
tables grouped around an open A short walk from the French-International Map 8 F4
fire, Das Meisterstück prides Brandenburger Tor, this Unter den Linden 39, 10117
itself on its locally sourced, high- vegetarian restaurant is very Tel 204 44 22
quality meats and sausages and convenient for sightseers. The Art Deco Dressler’s signature
well-kept craft beers. Gluten-free dishes on request. dish is the Parisian Secret – a
melt-in-the-mouth rump steak
Nante-Eck € Zwölf Apostel €€ cooked in a mystery sauce.
Traditional German Map 8 F3 Italian Map 9 A3
Unter den Linden 35, 10117 Georgenstrasse 2, 10117
Tel 22 48 72 57 Tel 201 02 22 DK Choice
Berlin-style cheap eats are on This rambling restaurant Fischers Fritz €€€
offer in this homely pub on Unter beneath the railway arches near Modern French Map 9 A4
den Linden. Fill up on Berlin calf’s Friedrichstrasse station serves Charlottenstrasse 49, 10117
liver with port sauce or meatballs 12 pizza flavours, named for Tel 203 363 63
with mustard, washed down the 12 apostles, cooked to Fischers Fritz was awarded two
with local beer. perfection in a stone oven. Michelin stars in 2012 for the
fifth year running, due to the
Augustiner am Bocca di Bacco €€€ creative flair of chef Christian
Gendarmenmarkt €€ Italian Map 8 F4 Lohse. The meat dishes are
Regional German Map 9 A4 Friedrichstrasse 167, 10117 tempting, but it is the fish and
Charlottenstrasse 55, 10117 Tel 206 728 28 seafood dishes that receive most
Tel 204 540 20 Master chef Loriano Mura directs of the accolades. Try the Breton
This Bavarian pub with wooden the kitchen of this classy Italian lobster roasted with salt, chilli
panelling and oak barrels restaurant with an elegant and coriander, or the fillet of
overlooks Berlin’s most beautiful ambience that attracts the Mediterranean red mullet with
square. It serves hearty German glitterati. Superb wine list. mashed potatoes, Nyons olives
fare such as baked knuckle of and tomatoes. The lunch menu
pork with Bavarian sauerkraut Borchardt €€€ is more accessibly priced.
and beef goulash in a beer sauce. French-German Map 9 A4
Französische Strasse 47, 10117
Chipps €€ Tel 81 88 62 62 Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer €€€
German Map 9 B4 German politicians and celebrities German fine dining Map 8 E4
Jägerstrasse 35, 10117 flock to this Gendarmenmarkt Unter den Linden 77, 10117
Tel 364 445 88 restaurant with retro decor from Tel 226 119 60
The serious breakfasts at this the early 1900s. Schnitzel is the Dine at Berlin’s gourmet temple
eatery include waffles and mainstay of an ever-changing par excellence, with views of
pancakes, but above all eggs. Try menu. Reservations advised. the Brandenburger Tor while
Dancing Queen – poached egg
with spinach and fresh chives in a
Hollandaise sauce, on wholemeal
bread. Weekend brunch.
Cookies Cream €€
Vegetarian Map 8 F4
Behrenstrasse 55, 10117
Tel 274 929 40
The chef at this unpretentious
yet hip veggie hangout uses
only the freshest locally grown
ingredients to create inventive
dishes that change seasonally.
Free entry to on-site nightclub
on Tuesdays and Thursdays.
Kaffeehaus Einstein €€
Austrian Map 8 F3
Unter den Linden 42, 10117
Tel 204 36 32
Rub shoulders with German
politicians and other movers
and shakers while admiring Sophisticated interior of the Michelin-starred Fischers Fritz restaurant
enjoying the delicious creations

of the Michelin-starred chef
Hendrik Otto.
Quarré €€€
French-German Map 8 E4
Unter den Linden 77
Tel 226 119 59
This brasserie has great views of
Pariser Platz and the Brandenburg
Tor. The Berliner Klassiker menu
offers an alternative gourmet take
on regional Brandenburg cuisine.
Vau €€€
Modern French Map 9 A4
Jägerstrasse 54–55, 10117
Tel 202 97 30 Enjoy stunning city views from Fernsehturm Sphere Restaurant in the TV tower
Celebrity TV chef Kolja Kleeberg
won this classy restaurant a A Tavola Allegretto €€ Reinhard’s €€€
Michelin star with his inspired Italian Map 9 B2–B3 International Map 9 C3
take on French cooking. The Anna-Louisa-Karsch Strasse 2, 10179 Poststrasse 28, 10178
striking interior is best described Tel 28 04 23 09 Tel 242 52 95
as modern meets Art Nouveau. A bustling trattoria opposite This stylish restaurant is decorated
Museum Island and the Berliner with photos of German artists and
Dom that serves Italian fare such film stars of yesteryear. The house
as pizzas and pasta, along with speciality is Secret of the Kaiser’s
Museum Island coffee and pastries. The sunny Court – steak served in a sauce
terrace is a good spot to indulge created for Max Liebermann.
Café im Bode-Museum € in people-watching.
German Map 9 A2
Geschwister-Scholl-Straße 6, 10117 Fernsehturm Sphere
Tel 202 143 30 Restaurant €€ North of the Centre
Break for lunch or coffee in the German-International Map 9 C2
surrounds of the Bodemuseum Panoramastrasse 1A, 10178 Anna Blume €
while gazing down on Andreas Tel 242 59 22 International Map 2 F3
Schlüter’s magnificent equestrian This revolving restaurant in the Kollwitzstrasse 83, 10435
statue of the Great Elector. No TV tower serves typical Berlin- Tel 440 487 49
museum ticket required. Brandenburg specialities A classy café-restaurant with a
including kabeljau (cod with lovely terrace and lustre-lit interior.
Marinehaus € beetroot and potato puree). While some customers rave about
Traditional German Map 10 D4 the breakfast, others enthuse
Märkisches Ufer 48–50, 10179 Zum Nussbaum €€ about brunch, while most crave
Tel 279 32 46 Traditional German Map 9 C3 the lime cheesecake dessert.
Enjoy classic German cuisine at Am Nussbaum 3, 10178
this pub located on the banks Tel 242 30 95 Beth Café €
of the Spree. Housed in a historic Set in a Nikolaiviertel side street, Jewish Map 9 A1
building built by the Berlin this reconstructed country inn Tucholskystrasse 40, 10117
maritime authority, the place serves traditional Berlin cuisine Tel 281 31 35 Closed Fri eve & Sat
has vintage maritime decor. including rollmop, Bouletten (spicy A kosher café in the New
meatballs), fish and vegetable Synagogue area with a limited
Rotisserie Weingrün €€ pancakes, as well as local beers. menu. Sample the speciality
German Map 9 B4 kolbo platte (salad with tahina,
Gertraudenstrasse 10, 10178 falafel and humus).
Tel 206 219 00 Closed Sun DK Choice
Natural woods and gleaming Zur letzten Instanz €€ Cafe Fleury €
glassware create a modern yet Traditional German Map 10 D3 French Map 1 C5
warm atmosphere. Great grilled Waisenstrasse 14–16, 10179 Weinbergsweg 20, 10119
meats and an excellent wine list. Tel 242 55 28 Closed Sun Tel 440 341 44
Berlin’s oldest pub, Zur letzten This lovely café has a distinctive
Instanz dates from 1621. wallpaper and an outdoor terrace.
Beethoven and Napoleon Wonderful smells of fresh coffee,
East of the Centre are thought to have eaten here croissants, brioches and other
and Charlie Chaplin, Mikhail breakfast delicacies greet guests.
Domklause € Gorbachev and Angela Merkel
Traditional German Map 9 E2 certainly did. The classic Chicago Williams BBQ €
Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 1, 10178 German fare, including Eisbein American Map 8 F1
Tel 847 12 37 37 (pork knuckle) and Rinderroulade Hannoversche Strasse 2, 10115
The chef in the DDR Museum (beef olive), is served in a cosy Tel 28 04 24 22
restaurant once cooked for East wood-panelled room with a Fun barbecue place serving
German politicians. Down-to- majolica-tiled stove. There is tasty ribs, steaks and pulled pork,
earth meat dishes such as Mock a shady courtyard garden. accompanied by home-made
Hare and Hunter’s Schnitzel. sauces. Good cocktails and beer.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp226–7
Dada Falafel € Transit € pasta and good fish and meat

Middle Eastern Map 8 F1 Southeast Asian Map 9 B1 dishes. Try the grilled swordfish
Linienstrasse 132, 10115 Rosenthaler Strasse 68, 10119 marinated in white wine vinegar,
Tel 0171 359 7392 Tel 247 816 45 honey and oregano.
Dada Falafel offers fast food Food here is served in tapas-sized
worth lingering over, including portions – three bowls should Boulevard Friedrichstrasse €€
arguably the best falafels this side suffice. All dishes are MSG-free, Traditional German Map 8 F2
of Damascus, as well as grat and have playful names including Friedrichstrasse 106, 10117
shawarmas and fresh salads. Duck in Pyjamas (crispy duck and Tel 405 205 94
plum sauce rolled in a pancake). A cosy restaurant that offers
Gambrinus trifft reasonably-priced German fare.
Bacchus € Menu highlights include veal
Traditional German Map 8 F1 DK Choice schnitzel, beef roulade and pork
Krausnickstrasse 1, 10115 Yam Yam € knuckle. There's also a good
Tel 282 60 43 Korean Map 9 C1 choice of local beers.
A traditional Kneipe (pub) with Alte Schönhauser Strasse 6, 10119
old-fashioned tiles, dark wood Tel 246 324 85 Cenacolo €€
furnishings, framed photos and Popular with local fashionistas, Italian Map 2 E3
posters of Old Berlin. Massive this canteen-style restaurant Sredzkistrasse 23, 10435
portions of German pub grub. run by Sumi Ha uses organic Tel 440 447 43
Korean vegetables and hot The aroma of fresh herbs and
Gugelhof € spices and flavouring typical pizzas cooked in a traditional
Alsatian Map 2 E4 of the region’s cooking. Try cha stone oven greets diners at
Knaackstrasse 37, 10435 chang myun (noodles with pork this popular Prenzlauer Berg
Tel 442 92 29 and black beans, served with restaurant. Book ahead.
Former US president Bill Clinton pickled cabbage) or rise to the
visited this lively restaurant near challenge of a bibimbap (beef, Habel Weinkultur and
Kollwitzplatz that serves Alsatian vegetables and fried egg mixed Brasserie €€
specialities such as tarte with a fiery red pepper paste.) Modern German Map 8 E2
flambée and lamb cassoulet. Luisenstrasse 19, 10117
Tel 280 984 84
Khushi € Zum Schusterjungen € This upmarket brasserie is inspired
Indian Map 2 E4 Traditional German Map 2 E2 by Prussian culinary traditions,
Kollwitzstrasse 37, 10405 Danziger Strasse 9, 10435 but with a Mediterranean twist.
Tel 484 937 90 Tel 442 76 54 Impressive wine list.
Delicious Indian food to eat in A typical Berlin corner pub with
or take out, prepared with fresh quirky rustic touches. The home- Hackescher Hof €€
traditional ingredients. The dishes cooked food includes large Modern German-
are moderately spicy. portions of liver and onions, International Map 9 B2
knuckle of pork, and bacon Rosenthaler Strasse 40–41, 10178
Sophieneck € wraps. Serves draught beer. Tel 283 52 93
Regional German Map 9 B1 Café-restaurant-patisserie with an
Große Hamburger Strasse 37, 10115 Al Contadino sotto le Stelle €€ interior reminiscent of a Viennese
Tel 282 21 09 Italian Map 9 B1 coffee house. Popular with office
A warm pub-restaurant serving Auguststrasse 36, 10119 workers for its attractively priced
regional cooking with fresh Tel 281 90 23 Closed Tue two-course lunch menu. Stays
ingredients and an international Stylish, upmarket trattoria with open until 2am.
twist including vegetarian options friendly service and the flavours
and a kids’ menu. of southern Italy. Home-made Mao Thai €€
Thai Map 2 F3
Wörther Strasse 30, 10405
Tel 441 92 61
Popular with locals and visitors
alike for its excellent, mildly
spiced Thai food and alfresco
seating in summer.
Monsieur Vuong €€
Vietnamese Map 9 C1
Alte Schönhauser Str. 46, 10119
Tel 99 29 69 24
Oriental bistro with a two-course
menu and specials up on the
blackboard. Generous portions,
efficient service and a tempting
selection of scented teas.
Muret La Barba €€
Italian Map 9 C1
Rosenthaler Strasse 61, 10119
Tel 28 09 71 12
This busy wine bar and bistro
Casual outdoor seating on the tree-shaded pavement at Gugelhof serves a range of creative,
W H AT TO E AT A N D D R I N K  235
homemade Italian dishes

at reasonable prices. Ask
the knowledgeable staff
for wine pairings.
Nola’s am Weinberg €€
Swiss Map 1 C4
Veteranen Strasse 9, 10119
Tel 440 407 66
Swiss cantonal cuisine featuring
fondue, noodle and risotto
dishes. The lovely summer
terrace offers scenic views of the
city. Sunday brunch buffet starts
from 10am.
Oxymoron €€
Italian-French Map 9 B2
Rosenthaler Strasse 40-41, 10178 Range of Russian and Jewish goodies on offer at Pasternak
Tel 283 918 86
This fashionable Hackescher Savanna €€ Cafe am Neuen See €
Markt dining space and night African Map 2 E3 German-Mediterranean Map 6 F5
club attracts a young crowd. Sredzkistrasse 26, 10435 Lichtensteinallee 2, 10787
Atmospheric Art Deco interior Tel 443 186 21 Tel 254 493 00
with glittering lustres and wood- The wide-ranging menu here In the heart of Tiergarten Park,
framed mirrors. features exotic antelope and this café has lakeside terrace
zebra steaks as well as vegetable views and a menu comprising
platters – fried yams, okra, lentils, Bavarian snacks and draught
DK Choice bananas and spinach served with beers, as well as Italian mains
Pasternak €€ rice, couscous or injera (Eritrean including fresh pizzas. Cosy
Russian-Jewish Map 2 F4 flat bread). seating in winter, plus boat
Knaackstrasse 22/24, 10405 rental and a sandpit for kids.
Tel 441 33 99 Yosoy €€
A long-time favourite with Spanish Map 9 B2 Gaststätte Ambrosius €
Berlin’s sizeable Russian Rosenthaler Strasse 37, 10178 Traditional German Map 13 A1
community, Pasternak prides Tel 283 912 13 Einemstrasse 14, 10785
itself on its authentic cuisine. Commendably affordable, Tel 264 05 26
Focus on the rich assortment authentic tapas bar with Spanish Enjoy nourishing home cooking,
of zakuski (starters), but do not wines to pair with the appetizing with specialities such as Berlin-
overlook the blini (buckwheat fish and meat main courses. style liver, served with onions and
pancakes filled with spinach apple sauce, and tasty potato
and cheese, salmon and soup, at this cosy restaurant.
horseradish, or caviar). The DK Choice
warm dining space is adorned Reinstoff €€€ Lindenbräu €
with traditional wallpaper, Fine dining Map 1 A5 Traditional German Map 8 D5
lamps and candles. Schlegelstrasse 26c/Edison Höfe, Bellevuestrasse 3–5, 10785
10115 Tel 257 512 80
Tel 308 812 14 Closed Sun & Mon A popular watering hole on
Restauration 1900 €€ Twice awarded the Michelin Potsdamer Platz serving Bavarian
Traditional German Map 2 E3 star, chef Daniel Achilles runs his specialities and home-brewed
Husemannstrasse 1, 10435 elegant eatery in the ambient fruit-flavoured wheat beer on a
Tel 442 24 94 surrounds of a former light bulb large roof terrace.
The granny’s kitchen menu at factory. The menu features an
this Art Nouveau restaurant array of interesting dishes, such OM €
features old Prussian favourites as river trout and rowanberry Nepalese-Indian Map 7 A2
such as königsberger Klops and Norway lobster. In keeping Kirchstrasse 16, 10557
(meatballs in creamy caper with Reinstoff's name, which Tel 39749554
sauce). Weekend brunch buffet translates as “pure materials”, the Family-friendly restaurant close
from 10am; booking essential. kitchen uses high-quality, to the Spree. Try the hot and
organic ingredients. spicy lamb kebabs or opt for
Sarah Wiener Cafe milder dishes such as the crispy
and Restaurant €€ duck in coconut sauce.
Austrian-
Mediterranean Map 8 D1 Teehaus Tiergarten €
Invalidenstrasse 50–51, 10557 Tiergarten International Map 5 A5
Tel 707 136 50 Closed Mon Altonaer Strasse 2/2a, 10557
This restaurant offers refined Angkor Wat € Tel 394 804 00
dining at the Hamburger Cambodian Map 7 B2 Snacks, cakes and main courses
Bahnhof museum. Tino Speer’s Paulstrasse 22, 10557 are served in the teahouse or on
cuisine uses fresh organic Tel 393 39 22 the terrace. Lovely setting in the
ingredients and serves some of This well-established restaurant English garden next to Schloss
Berlin’s best schnitzels. Also try draws diners with its exotic decor Bellevue. Summer concerts take
out the home-made cakes. and aromatic curries. place from July to September.
Park that offers grills as well

as ample vegetarian options.
Adventure playground for children.
Gropius €
International Map 14 E1
Niederkirchnerstrasse 7, 10963
Tel 254 864 06 Closed Tue
Restaurant in the Martin-Gropius-
Bau with a summer terrace and a
seasonal menu that reflects the
temporary art exhibitions.
DK Choice
Tomasa €
International Map 14 E4
Kreuzbergstrasse 62, 10965
Käfers Dachgarten restaurant, on the rooftop of the Reichstag building Tel 810 098 85
Great for families, this friendly
Lanninger €€ restaurant in a red-brick villa
Modern German Map 6 F1 DK Choice has a well-stocked playroom,
Alt-Moabit 99, 10559 Käfers Dachgarten €€€ a great kids’ menu and a
Tel 399 207 98 Modern German Map 8 D3 courtyard garden. For the
Smart modern restaurant and Platz der Republik, 11011 grown-ups, Tomasa caters for
cocktail lounge with terrace Tel 226 29 90 every possible taste and is
views across a lovely, tree-fringed Overlooked by many visitors especially strong on breakfast
stretch of the Spree. to Berlin, this lovely roof garden and brunch choices.
restaurant in the Reichstag
Lutter & Wegner building has a terrace with
im Kaisersaal €€ spectacular views across the
German-Austrian Map 8 D5 city. Sample sophisticated DK Choice
Bellevuestrasse 1, 10785 German dishes made with Yorckschlösschen €
Tel 263 903 72 the freshest regional produce International Map 14 F3
This illustrious restaurant, and accompanied by choice Yorckstrasse 15, 10965
founded over two centuries ago, wines. Book at least 3 hours in Tel 215 80 70
is located in the former Kaisersaal advance and remember to A Kreuzberg haunt with a
dining room – a relic of Imperial bring your passport. bohemian interior featuring
Germany. Sample refined velvet sofas, old wooden furni-
cooking and fine wines here. shings and a beer garden. The
extensive menu offers 14 break-
Rikes Gasthaus €€ fast choices and includes lighter
Traditional German Map 13 C1 Kreuzberg meals and hearty German
Hotel Alt-Berlin, Potsdamer Strasse favourites, such as Leberkäse
67, 10785 Cafe do Brasil € (meat loaf ) served with fried egg
Tel 26 06 70 Brazilian Map 14 F5 and salad. It has also hosted jazz
Old-world restaurant with menus Dudenstrasse 2, 10965 performances for over 20 years.
based on original recipes from Tel 780 068 87
Frau Rike’s grandmother’s The party atmosphere at this
cookbook including Coachman’s popular Kreuzberg restaurant Altes Zollhaus €€
Goulash, beef cooked in beer. draws a lively international crowd. Modern German Map 15 B3
Specialities include Brazilian Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, 10961
Ristorante Essenza €€ beach BBQ cooking, seafood Tel 692 33 00
Italian Map 8 E5 stews (moquecas) and caipirinha A charming half-timbered house
Potsdamer Platz 1, 10785 cocktails. Sunday brunch. and garden that offers classic rustic
Tel 25 79 68 56 cooking, featuring the famous
Enjoy top-notch, creative Italian Cocoro € Beelitzer asparagus in season.
fare at this pleasant restaurant. Japanese Map 14 F4
The menu is matched with an Mehringdamm 64, 10963 Bar Centrale €€
extensive list of wines and Tel 81 49 43 29 Italian Map 14 F4
champagnes. Attentive service. This tiny café serves tasty and Yorckstrasse 82, 10965
authentic Japanese food such Tel 786 29 89
Facil €€€ as udon noodles and curry don Serving fine Italian cuisine in
Modern Fusion Map 8 D5 (Japanese curry with rice). There the heart of Kreuzberg, this bar-
Potsdamer Strasse 3, 10785 is also a good selection of fresh restaurant has a loyal following
Tel 590 05 12 34 tea and home-made drinks. and a great wine list.
Dine on Michelin-starred gourmet
food in the Mandala Hotel (see p224) Golgatha € Dolden Mädel €€
restaurant. A glass-roofed pavilion International Map 14 E5 Traditional German Map 14 F4
is the backdrop for master chef Dudenstrasse 40–64, 10965 Mehringdamm 80, 10965
Michael Kempf’s inspired culinary Tel 785 24 53 Tel 773 262 13
cuisine, which draws on the A lively 1920s beer garden on This restaurant specializes in craft
freshest market produce. the edge of picturesque Viktoria beers, with more than 20
varieties on tap and plenty of Dicke Wirtin €

bottled options. The menu Traditional German Map 11 C1
features hearty, mostly German Carmerstrasse 9, 10623
dishes such as pulled pork and Tel 312 49 52
schnitzel. There is a good outdoor This authentic Berlin Kneipe is a
area for the warmer months. short walk from Savigny Platz. Try
the Eintopf, a steaming hotpot,
e.t.a. Hoffmann €€€ and the Berliner Kindl, one of the
Modern Austrian Map 14 F4 nine draught beers available.
Yorckstrasse 83, 10965
Tel 780 988 09 Handoyo’s €
Tyrolean chef Thomas Kurt has Indonesian Map 11 C2–C3
his creative way with traditional Ludwigkirchplatz 2, 10719
Austrian and German recipes. Tel 28 86 69 35
Try the cushion of Brandenburg Enjoy classic Indonesian fare at this
venison with Gatow radish and friendly restaurant. Try the signa-
potato noodles. ture dish, sate banjar (barbecued
meat skewers with chilli and pea-
Tim Raue €€€ nut sauce), and Javanese waffles.
Modern Asian fusion Map 9 A5
Rudi-Dutschke Strasse 26, 10969 Sachico Sushi € Sleek and minimalist decor at Tim Raue,
Tel 259 379 30 Japanese Map 11 C1 serving Oriental cuisine
The Michelin-starred Tim Raue Grolmanstrasse 47, Jeanne-
offers authentic Japanese, Thai Mammen-Bogen 584, 10623 Tyrolean culinary influences is
and Chinese cooking. Minimalist Tel 313 22 82 Closed Mon served in this restaurant with
interior with gallery lighting and This is a handy refuelling stop a wood-panelled interior and
American walnut furniture. after Ku’damm shopping, with a congenial atmosphere.
tempting business lunch of
kaitan (conveyor belt) sushi; pay Cafe-Restaurant Wintergarten
extra for sashimi and grills. im Literaturhaus €€
Around German-
Satyam € International Map 12 D2
Kurfürstendamm Indian Vegetarian Map 5 C5 Fasanenstrasse 23, 10719
Goethestrasse 5, 10623 Tel 882 54 14
Baba Angora € Tel 318 061 11 Break from shopping on Ku’damm
Turkish Map 11 B1 A vegetarian restaurant serving and visit this bolthole favoured
Schlüterstrasse 29, 10629 specialities such as aubergine in by artists and intellectuals.
Tel 323 70 96 lightly spiced tomato sauce with Breakfast and international dishes
Classic Anatolian cuisine such ginger and garlic. Some vege- are served in an Art Nouveau
as spicy Adana sis kebab with tables come directly from India. interior. Shady garden.
yoghurt and herbs is served here.
There are vegetarian and fish Tastees € Calcutta €€
options as well. The unusual Jamaican Map 11 C1 Indian Map 11 B1
decor comprises ancient Hittite Grolmanstrasse 27, 10623 Bleibtreustrasse 17, 10623
art. Large outdoor terrace. Tel 889 220 28 Closed Sun Tel 883 62 93
Tastees is renowned for its spicy The oldest Indian restaurant
Bleibergs € Caribbean fare, with specialities in Berlin is reputed for its
Jewish Map 12 E2 including patties, jerk chicken and sophisticated dishes from
Nürnberger Strasse 45A, 10789 curried shrimps with fried banana. all parts of the subcontinent.
Tel 219 136 24 Closed Fri eve & Sat Tandoori dishes cooked in
A kosher café with a relaxed vibe Brenner €€ traditional wood-fired oven.
and a menu that includes German-International Map 12 E3
vegetarian and vegan dishes Regensburger Strasse 7, 10777
as well as Russian blinis and Tel 236 244 70 DK Choice
fresh bread. There's also a rich A choice of Austrian, Italian Esswein am Fasanenplatz €€
selection of wine to choose from. and German dishes reflecting Modern German Map 11 C2
Fasanenstrasse 40, 10719
Tel 887 140 99
Esswein is making waves within
Berlin’s culinary scene, thanks
to its modern German cooking.
The menu is seasonal but might
feature pfälzer Wurstsalat
(Rhineland sausage with cheese
and bread), with Ochsenfetzen
(ox slices baked in a râgout
of grapes, mushrooms and
chestnuts) to follow. Choose
from a selection of more than
40 Mosel wines to accompany
your meal for the makings of a
memorable evening.
The lovely garden at the Cafe-Restaurant Wintergarten im Literaturhaus
Belmondo €€€ Natural’mente €

French Map 11 C3 Vegetarian and vegan Map 4 F3
Knesebeckstrasse 93, 10623 Schustehrusstrasse 26, 10585
Tel 362 872 61 Tel 341 41 66 Closed Sat, Sun,
Red leather banquettes and dinner daily
photos of the famous actor This biorestaurant uses only
JeanPaul Belmondo bring a whole foods and organic
touch of French elegance to produce. The menu features
this Charlottenburg bistro. vegetable platters, soups and
Excellent fish and seafood desserts. Drinks include organic
dishes, and a sensational beers and wines.
bouillabaisse (fish soup).
Taverna Ambrosios €
Die Quadriga €€€ Greek Map 5 B3
European Map 12 D2 Galvanistrasse 12A, 10587
Eislebener Strasse 14, 10789 Tel 341 55 54
Tel 214 056 51 Closed Sun Laidback Greek taverna with
Located very close to the famous ochre walls, blue check table
Kurfürstendamm boulevard, this cloths and wonderful food. The
opulent finedining restaurant at weekday lunch menu offered here
the Dormero Hotel Berlin is especially good value. Plenty of
Ku'damm serves the best of options for vegetarians as well.
The bright and airy interior of NENI Berlin, European and French cuisine.
offering views of Tiergarten Zur Weissen Kastanie €
Restaurant 44 €€€ Regional German Map 4 E4
Florian €€ International Map 12 D1 Schlosstrasse 22, 14059
Swabian Map 5 C5 Augsburger Strasse 44, 10789 Tel 321 50 34
Grolmanstrasse 52, 10623 Tel 22 01 022 88 A friendly pub with a menu that
Tel 313 91 84 Enjoy upmarket gourmet dining changes daily, offering excellent
Small, pristine restaurant with in the terrace restaurant of the traditional fare. Sit on the
an understated charm that Swissôtel with fine views of the terrace and enjoy your meal
attracts a celebrity crowd. Ku’damm. While the menu largely under the old trees.
Savour the excellent Swabian features Swiss cuisine, the other
cuisine, which is served with a European dishes are just as good. Brauhaus Lemke €€
modern twist, and makes the Traditional German Map 4 F3
most of organic produce. Restaurant Le Faubourg €€€ Luisenplatz 1, 10585
French Map 12 D1 Tel 308 789 79
Grüne Lampe €€ Augsburger Strasse 41, 10789 The microbrewery adjacent
Russian Map 11 C3 Tel 800 999 77 00 to Schloss Charlottenburg enjoys
Uhlandstrasse 51, 10719 Located inside the Sofitel Berlin views of the park from the pub
Tel 887 193 93 Kurfürstendamm hotel, this terrace. There’s hearty German
This place is popular with Russian restaurant offers refined French fare on offer, and a good choice
expats, who come for the the cooking at its best. The friendly of stout, ale and Pilsner beers.
authentic home cooking. There’s and efficient staff add to the
a large selection of zakuski and pleasant dining experience. Don Giovanni €€
blini on the menu, plus some Outdoor terrace seating. Italian Map 4 A4
vegetarian options. Bismarckstrasse 28, 10625
Wilson’s €€€ Tel 341 76 53
Marjellchen €€ American Map 12 E1 Don Giovanni serves huge thin
Regional German Map 11 B1 Hotel Crowne Plaza, Nürnberger crusted pizzas, as well as an assort
Mommsenstrasse 9 Strasse 65, 10787 ment of Tuscan meat and fish
Tel 883 26 76 Tel 210 070 00 specialities. An excellent selection
This place raids the recipe The focus at Wilson’s is on of German red wines is available.
book of the owner's grand succulent prime ribs and steaks,
mother to cook up excellent using beef imported from the US. Engelbecken €€
traditional Silesian and East Save room for the homemade Regional German Map 4 E5
Prussian dishes. Portions are ice cream. Romantic terrace. Witzlebenstrasse 31, 14057
hearty, so arrive hungry. The Tel 615 28 10
warm, cosy atmosphere and Sample delectable Bavarian
helpful staff make for an white veal and pork sausages
enjoyable evening out. Around Schloss with sweet mustard, or the
Charlottenburg saddle of organic pork with fried
NENI Berlin €€ mushroom, carrots and pureed
Middle Eastern Map 12 E1 Chenab € nettle leaves. Bavarian lager
Budapester Strasse 40, 10787 Indian Map 4 D4 or dark beers can be enjoyed
Tel 12 02 21 200 Knobelsdorffstrasse 35, 14059 outside on the pavement terrace.
Enjoy splendid views over Tel 364 347 99
Tiergarten while dining at this Go for the tasty, mildlyspiced Eosander €€
rooftop restaurant located next vegetarian dishes at this International Map 4 E3
to the Bikini Berlin shopping neighbourhood eatery. The Spandauer Damm 3, 14059
complex. The menu offers an banana curry takes some Tel 437 296 01
impressive array of Middle Eastern beating and it offers great value This restfully sedate café
delicacies. Book in advance. for money and plenty of variety. restaurant is situated just
across the road from Schloss here. Follow with sweet pancakes,
Charlottenburg. The Art Nouveau Further Afield and Breton cider from the Val de
decor gives it a touch of Rance served in porcelain cups.
sophistication and a nostalgic Amrit €
air. Open for breakfast. South Asian Map 16 E2 Darjiling €
Oranienstrasse 202–3, 10999 Indian
Tel 612 55 50 Alt-Tegel 25, 13507
DK Choice Popular Kreuzberg restaurant Tel 430 045 65
Gourmanderie €€ offering generous portions Exotic aromas of cardamom
French Map 4 E3 inspired by Indian, Thai and and coriander greet visitors at
Schlossstrasse 60, 14059 Malaysian flavours. Darjiling. Chicken, mutton and
Tel 342 20 40 Closed Sun & Mon fish standards come with a smile,
A classy bistro featuring a menu Baraka € and at low prices.
based on authentic Alsatian North African Map 16 F2
and French recipes, including Lausitzer Platz 6, 10997 Golden Buddha €
classics such as confit de canard, Tel 612 63 30 Thai Map 1 C1
as well as frog legs and snails Baraka serves Moroccan and Gleimstrasse 26, Prenzlauer Berg, 10437
for the more adventurous Egyptian specialities including Tel 448 55 56
diners. The wines are imported tajine and couscous in a caver Locals flock to this neighbourhood
from the owner’s favourite nous ambience with seating on restaurant with a real buzz for
wineries. The cosy interiors, banquettes and cushions. its soft Thai flavours, vegetarian
attentive French staff and a specials and friendly service.
pleasant garden terrace make Britzer Mühle €
dining at Gourmanderie Traditional German Hasir Ocakbasi €
a memorable experience. Buckower Damm 130, Neukölln, 12349 Turkish Map 16 E2
Tel 604 18 19 Adalbertstrasse 12, 10999
This cosy eatery with a large Tel 615 070 80
Restaurant Kien-Du €€ beer garden provides bucolic Berlin’s love affair with the doner
Thai Map 4 F4 views of a mill, huge portions of kebab began here in 1971. Large
Kaiser-Friedrich-Strasse 89, 10585 attractivelypriced German pub selection of chargrilled meat and
Tel 341 14 47 grub and live music on Mondays. fish dishes, mezes and desserts.
The oldest Thai restaurant in
Berlin is known for its red and Il Casolare € Henne €
green curries, its use of the Italian Map 16 D3 Traditional German Map 16 D1
freshest ingredients and its Grimmstrasse 30, 10967 Leuschnerdamm 25, 10999
garlanded Buddha shrine. Native Tel 695 066 10 Tel 614 77 30
draught beer available. Some of the best pizzas in Berlin, Ample chicken dishes on the
with waferthin crusts and menu at this wonderfully
Ana e Bruno €€€ delicious toppings. Bohemian atmospheric Kreuzberg pub,
Italian Map 4 D3 ambience, tables overlooking the now more than a century old.
Sophie-Charlottenstrasse 101, 14059 Landwehr Canal and famously
Tel 325 71 10 brusque waiters. Book ahead. Kurhaus Korsakow €
Come here to get a taste of Traditional German
Bruno Pellegrini’s inspired Crêperie Bretonne € Grünberger Straße 81, 10245
gourmet cooking at a reasonable French Map 16 E3 Tel 547 377 86
price. The menu fuses traditional Reichenberger Strasse 30, 10999 Hearty home cooking and draught
cooking with modern style. The Tel 600 311 92 Closed Sun beers in a cosy atmosphere. Place
excellent wine list complements Savoury galettes filled with ham, your orders for Berliner Leber (liver)
the innovative food on offer. Roquefort and pear are served or Bouletten with cabbage roulade.
Candlelit dining in a rustic and cosy setting at Kurhaus Korsakow

Shaan €
Indian
Richardplatz 20, Neukölln, 12055
Tel 680 893 82
Friendly, unpretentious restaurant
with a typical range of regional
dishes. Try chicken marinated in
more than 20 spices and cooked
in an earthenware tandoori oven.
Tandir €
Turkish Map 16 E5
Hermannstrasse 157, 12051
Tel 625 67 05
Neighbourhood Imbissbude
(takeaway) and small restaurant
with outdoor seating. Serves
grilled meat, falafel, soup
and casseroles.
Well-stocked bar at the popular Max und Moritz pub
Taverna To Koutouki €
Loretta am Wannsee € Miss Saigon € Greek Map 16 E3
Regional German Vietnamese Map 16 F2 Kottbusser Damm 9, 10967
Kronprinzessinnenweg 260, 14109 Skalitzer Strasse 38, 10999 Tel 692 52 17
Tel 801 053 33 Tel 695 333 77 There’s a welcoming glass of
Traditional beer garden, grill Small no-frills restaurant that ouzo on arriving at this popular
and restaurant overlooking the surprises with the quality of its Greek restaurant with a candlelit
Wannsee with lovely lake views. South Vietnamese seafood and interior and typical dishes
The house speciality is Hax’n: vegetable dishes, seasoned and including bifteki (cheese-filled
knuckle of pork cooked in spiced with refinement. meatballs) and a mixed
dark beer. grill platter.
Nirwana €
Lotus Lounge € Indian Map 4 E4 Thüringer Stuben €
Vegetarian Map 3 C3 Schlossstrasse 48a, 12165 Regional German Map 2 F1
Soorstrasse 85, 14050 Tel 793 16 59 Stargarder Strasse 28, Prenzlauer
Tel 232 550 65 Closed Sun & Nirwana serves excellent regional Berg, 10437
dinner daily cooking and huge portions. The Tel 446 33 39
Located in the Tibetan-Buddhist menu ranges from mild korma or Stag heads adorn the wood-
Centre, Lotus Lounge offers biryani dishes to spicier masalas panelled walls in this mock-
mains such as spinach and and vindaloos. traditional Thuringian inn.
potato gratin flavoured with Home-made potato dumplings,
garlic and tomato. Old Shanghai € sausages and regional specialities.
Chinese Map 8 F1
Matreschka € Chausseestrasse 32, Prenzlauer Viasko €
Russian Berg, 10115 Vegan Map 16 D3
Boxhagener Strasse 60 Tel 288 794 66 Erkelenzdamm 49, 10999
Tel 0163 987 0767 The chef is from Shanghai and his Tel 884 997 85
This small, modest restaurant wife can advise on the traditional Enjoy reasonably priced and
offers simple Russian dishes Chinese menu. Try the oven-baked inventive meals, including vegan
such as borscht and meat- ocean perch, cooked Shanghai- spins on German classics. The
stuffed dumplings, all style in sweet and sour sauce. atmosphere is relaxed and during
accompanied by wines the warmer months, there is the
from Georgia and vodka. Osmans Töchter €–€€ option of pleasant outdoor
Turkish Map 2 E2 seating opposite a park.
Max und Moritz € Pappelallee 15, 10437
Traditional German Map 16 D1 Tel 32 66 33 88 Volta €
Oranienstrasse 162, 10969 This family-run Turkish restaurant International Map 1 B2
Tel 695 159 11 has a lively atmosphere. It offers Brunnenstrasse 73, Pankow
Rustic-style pub grub with a tasty range of traditional Tel 0178 396 5490
generous helpings of Berlin-style dishes that are best enjoyed This trendy gastro-pub is best
food. Try the meatballs with by ordering a selection for known for its large burger, which
caper sauce or beef goulash sharing. Book ahead, especially comes with bacon, cheese and
with noodle dumplings. on weekends. rocket salad.
Merhaba € Seerose € Vux €

Turkish Map 10 F1 Vegetarian Map 15 C4–C5 Vegan
Greifswalder Strasse 4, 10405 Körtestrasse 38, 10967 Wipperstrasse 14, Neukölln, 12055
Tel 488 279 40 Tel 698 159 27 Closed Mon & Tue
Traditional Turkish restaurant Dine buffet-style on spinach Cosy Neukölln café with a nice
with typical Anatolian meze lasagne, pasta and rice dishes selection of home-made bagels.
and grilled specialities. Very with pick-and-mix side salads. Also serves soups, quiches
boisterous at weekends, with Delicious bio-wines, helpful staff and delicious biscuits, cakes
live music and belly dancing. and outdoor seating available. and waffles.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 2 4 1
Weltrestaurant Markthalle € Bosco €€ Freischwimmer €€

Traditional German Map 16 F2 Italian German
Pücklerstrasse 34, 10997 Wrangelstrasse 42, 10997 Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a, 10997
Tel 617 55 02 Tel 69 56 70 79 Closed Mon Tel 610 743 09
The wood-panelled dining room The two owner-chefs, Federico A lively waterside café-bar set on
at this restaurant near Görlitzer Testa and Francesco Righi, floating stages overlooking the
U-Bahn station serves generous offer ingenious and authentic Spree and the Landwehrkanal.
helpings of Berlin pub grub and Italian cuisine at this pleasant
draught beers. corner restaurant. The cosy, Funkturm Restaurant €€
welcoming interior accentuates German-Continental Map 3 B5
Wirtshaus zur Pfaueninsel € the homely vibe. Hammarskjöldplatz 1, 14055
Traditional German Tel 303 829 00
Pfaueninselchaussee 100, 14109 Brauhaus in Rixdorf €€ Set in a 52-m- (171-ft-) high radio
Tel 805 22 25 Traditional German tower dating from the 1920s, this
This beer garden-restaurant with Glasower Straße 27, Neukölln, 12051 restaurant has Art Deco interiors
views of the Havel is ideally Tel 626 88 80 and offers panoramic city views.
situated for a riverside stroll to Beer garden and restaurant in
work off the meal, or for the ferry a converted 19th-century villa. Genazvale €€
hop to Peacock Island. Asparagus, Serves locally brewed beer and Georgian Map 4 E5
mushroom and pumpkin dishes traditional dishes such as Eisbein Windscheidstrasse 14, 10627
in season. (knuckle of pork) served with Tel 450 860 26
sauerkraut and boiled potatoes. Friendly restaurant featuring dishes
Yellow Sunshine € and flavours from the Black Sea.
Vegetarian Map 16 F3 Cape Town €€ Specialities include chatschapuri
Wiener Strasse 19, 10999 South African (cheese bread), saziwi (chicken in
Tel 695 987 20 Schönfliesser Strasse 15, Prenzlauer walnut sauce) and Georgian wines.
Vegan Currywurst is on the menu Berg, 10439
at this roomy Kreuzberg bistro, Tel 400 576 58 Haus Sanssouci €€
along with organic fries, soya This meat-eater’s paradise is a German
burgers and a large choice of short walk from Schönhauser Am Grossen Wannsee 60, 14109
toppings and sauces. Allee S-Bahn. Generous portions Tel 805 30 34
of springbok and wildebeast. Smart, elegant restaurant with
Yogi-Haus € South African wines also available. delicious fish, seafood and game
Indian Map 13 A5 specialities. Located in the world’s
Belziger Strasse 42, 10823 Fischerhütte €€ first pre-fabricated wooden villa.
Tel 782 92 23 Regional German
A popular Schöneberg restaurant Fischerhüttenstraße 136, 14163 Hax’nhaus €€
specializing in North Indian Tel 804 903 10 Regional German
cuisine, Yogi-Haus concentrates Picturesque views of the Alt-Tegel 2, 13507
mainly on chicken and mutton Schlachtensee from this lakeside Tel 433 90 34
dishes. Large dining space with beer garden and restaurant. With dark-wood furnishings and
an open kitchen. There is a bio-grill and a kids’ beamed ceilings, Hax'nhaus
play area. serves hearty helpings of regional
Austria €€ meat and fish specialities.
Austrian Map 15 A5 Fisherman’s €€
Bergmannstraße 30, 10961 Fish Hugo €€
Tel 694 44 40 Eisenhammerweg 20, 13507 International Map 12 D4
Famous with Berliners long before Tel 437 464 70 Bundesallee 161, 10715
Pulitzer-prize-winning author Fish and scallops come in inspired Tel 544 671 11
Jeffrey Eugenides gave it a plug variations here, accompanied A restaurant that is popular locally
in Middlesex, Austria's Wiener by Rieslings. The view of the for its reasonably-priced prime cuts
schnitzel is the delicious house lake is priceless. of Argentine and Black Angus beef.
speciality and is served in
mammoth portions.
DK Choice
Jolesch €€
DK Choice Austrian Map 16 F2
Blockhaus Nikolskoe €€ Muskauer Strasse 1, 10997
German Tel 612 35 81
Nikolskoerweg 15, 14109 Tobias Janzen shows a deft touch
Tel 805 29 14 in his subtle reinterpretation of
This restaurant is idyllically traditional Austrian cooking in
located, with the Grunewald this restaurant. The menu is
forest as its backdrop and the seasonal but Austrian specialities
Havel and Peacock Island are recommended. Try Emperor
ahead. The restaurant occupies Franz-Josef’s favourite Tafelspitz
a wooden dacha (country (boiled beef ), served here with
house) built for the heir to the creamed spinach, apple-horse-
Russian throne in 1819. The food, radish, chive sauce and fried
especially the fresh fish and potatoes. The pine-green walls
local game, suit the spectacular and plum-coloured banquettes
views and waterside setting. The laid-back setting of the popular and create a calming ambience.
friendly Bosco
Restaurant Z €€
Greek-
Mediterranean Map 15 A5
Friesenstrasse 12, 10965
Tel 692 27 16
Friendly Greek taverna best
known for its lamb and fish
specialities, but also well
suited to vegetarians. Greek
regional wines.
Schoenbrunn €€
Austrian-
Mediterranean Map 10 F1
Am Friedrichshain 8,
Friedrichshain 10407
Tel 453 05 65 10
Enjoy a delicious Wiener schnitzel
on the sun terrace of the
Schoenbrunn restaurant-beer
garden in Volkspark Friedrichshain.
Tugra €€
Turkish Map 11 A2
Kurfürstendamm 96, 10709
Tel 323 40 27
A smart Turkish restaurant at
the far end of Ku’damm, Tugra
offers Ottoman recipes from
the Sultan’s Golden Book. Sample
the saddle of lamb in pepper
cream sauce, with dates wrapped
in turkey ham.
Diners at the elegant Restaurant Volt, popular for its regional cuisine
Fortshaus Paulsborn €€€
Juleps New York Bar & tablecloths and candlelit dining, Traditional German
Restaurant €€ Mio has an eclectic menu with Hüttenweg 90, 14193
American Map 11 A1 healthy, flavoursome food from Tel 818 19 10 Closed Mon
Giesebrechtstrasse 3, 10629 all parts of the Mediterranean. Set in a former hunting lodge
Tel 881 88 23 and picturesquely situated
Experience shades of an Osmanya €€ near Grunewaldsee, Fortshaus
American speakeasy in this brick- Turkish Paulsborn offers game specialities,
walled diner-style restaurant and Birkenstrasse 17, 10559 cakes and delicious pastries.
cocktail bar. The burgers are made Tel 488 299 99
with imported American beef. A cut above the average, this Horváth €€€
restaurant with opulent decor Modern German Map 16 E3
Lucky Leek €€ offers excellent traditional Paul Lincke Ufer 44a, 10999
Vegan Map 2 E4 Ottoman cooking. Try the sea Tel 612 899 92 Closed Mon & Tue
Kollwitzstrasse 54, Prenzlauer Berg bass fillet, cooked in a butter The Austrian roots of the young
Tel 664 087 10 and lime-flavoured sauce and chef, Sebastian Frank, are
Totally vegan, this top-notch served on a bed of blanched reflected in the sophisticated
gourmet spot plays with all kinds celery. Live music on weekends. regional German cuisine at this
of vegetables to create dishes Michelin-starred restaurant.
even carnivores will love. Restaurant Grunewaldturm €€
German-International Restaurant Volt €€€
Milo €€ Havelchaussee 61, 14193 Regional German Map 16 F4
Jewish Map 11 A3 Tel 417 200 01 Paul-Lincke-Ufer 21, 10999
Münstersche Strasse 6, 10709 A not too formal restaurant in a Tel 338 402 320
Tel 492 053 59 Closed Fri & Sat picturesque woodland setting. Offering an original take on
Fine dining in this rabbi- The terrace and beer garden Brandenburg regional cooking,
certificated kosher restaurant offer sublime views. Volt’s innovative menu comes
in the Wilmersdor Lubawitsch from rising star chef Matthias
Chabad Jewish centre. Traditional Restaurant Vitruv €€ Gleiss. Impressive setting in a
Jewish meat-based dishes, German- 1920s electric power station.
salmon latkes and kosher sushi! Mediterranean Map 10 E1
Hotel Leonardo Royal, Otto-Braun- Spindler & Klatt €€€
Mio €€ Strasse 90, 10249 European-Asian Map 16 F1
Mediterranean Tel 755 43 09 10 Köpenicker Strasse 16-17, 10997
Samariterstrasse 36, Spacious hotel restaurant Tel 319 88 18 60
Friedrichshain, 10247 near Alexanderplatz offering This restaurant and nightclub
Tel 486 241 73 classic German dishes and an has stunning views overlooking
A small neighbourhood bistro enterprising Mediterranean- the Spree, with seating indoors
with red-and-white check inspired menu with Asian touches. or on the pontoon terrace.
The dance floor is found in a from Friedrichshagen S-Bahn. sophisticated German cooking.
converted warehouse building. Mellow candelit interior and The menu includes rack of
Reservations advised. mouthwatering Cajun food. The lamb with rosemary and
menu features everything from Wiener schnitzel.
gumbo and catfish to jambalaya
(Creole stew) and ribs. Spree-Arche €€
Greater Berlin Modern German
Kleines Schloss €€ Müggelschlösschenweg,
Alexandrowka €€ German Friedrichshagen, 12559
Russian Park Babelsberg 9, Potsdam, 14482 Tel 0172 304 21 11
Russische Kolonie Haus1, Tel 0331 70 51 56 Closed Mon A boatman ferries you across
Puschkinallee, Potsdam, 14469 & Wed the Spree to a floating
Tel 0331 200 64 78 Closed Mon This lakeshore café and lunch blockhouse where you'll find
This two-storey log cabin with restaurant is an ideal stopover alfresco dining on the terrace
carved gables is located in during a hiking tour through overlooking the Muggelsee. The
Potsdam’s delightful Russian Park Babelsberg. Enjoy the home- fish specialities here are delicious.
Colony. Relax in the homely made cakes, pies, quiches, soups
interior, complete with icon corner, and refreshing tea and coffee. Strandlust Grünau €€
while sampling beautifully pre- Modern German
pared zakuski with beef stroganoff Krongut Bornstedt €€ Seddinpromenade 3A, 12527
and chicken Kiev to follow. Traditional German Tel 675 86 26 Closed Nov–Feb, Mon
Ribbeckstrasse 6, Potsdam, 14469 A tram ride from Köpenick Town
Tel 0331 550 65 48 Hall brings you directly to the
DK Choice Formerly crown property, these Müggelsee and this lakeside
Juliette €€–€€€ splendid UNESCO-protected restaurant where fish specialities
French buildings have been converted and local draught beers can be
Jagerstr. 39, Potsdam, 14467 into a home for a number of enjoyed as you take in stunning
Tel 0331 270 17 91 Closed Tue cafés and restaurants. The beer views of the lake.
Savoir vivre in Potsdam – this hall serves rustic cuisine and
long-serving, elegant gourmet an original Büffelbier (buffalo Weisse Villa €€
restaurant pleases with refined beer) from 1689. Modern German
French cuisine and unobtrusive Josef-Nawrocki-Strasse 10, 12587
service. Housed in a historic Maison Charlotte €€ Tel 640 956 46
timbered building dating from French This 130-year old villa, once part
the 17th century, Juliette adds a Mittelstrasse 20, Potsdam, 14467 of the Friedrichshagen brewery,
modern twist to classic recipes. Tel 0331 280 54 50 is well worth the trip out of town,
The food is complemented A refined bistro with rustic decor offering wonderful views of the
by a rich choice of wines from and a charming back garden, Müggelsee from the terrace.
France and Germany. The Maison Charlotte is found in
traditional dining room Potsdam’s Dutch Quarter. It Friedrich Wilhelm €€€
features an open fireplace. specializes in savoury pancakes International fine dining
as well as French classics such as Elisenweg 2, Potsdam, 12557
coq au vin and Breton fish soup. Tel 0331 50 50 Closed Sun & Mon
Kid Creole €€ Set in a historic Bavarian-style
American Speckers Landhaus €€–€€€ house built by Prussian king
Bölschestrasse 10, German-International Friedrich Wilhelm IV, this gourmet
Friedrichshagen, 12587 Jägerallee 13, Potsdam, 14469 restaurant is the only one in
Tel 650 766 80 Tel 0331 280 43 11 Closed lunch Potsdam with a Michelin star. Here,
Berlin meets New Orleans in this This restored country house, sumptuous dishes are coupled
laid-back restaurant a short walk dating from 1645, offers with a large selection of wines.
Outdoor seating on the pontoon terrace of Spindler & Klatt (see p242), located by the Spree
Light Meals and Snacks There are also many restaurants

offering Indian food, mainly
There are many popular fast-food bars and restaurants in along Grolmanstrasse. Nearby,
Berlin that serve the all-pervading burgers, French fries Moon Thai on Knesebeckstrasse
and pizzas, some of them run by well-known international serves delicious Thai curries and
papaya salads.
chains. By way of contrast, many of the self-service places
Berlin’s Japanese restaurants
specialize in local foods. The city’s cafés are ideal stopping tend to be of the more exclusive
places for a quick meal and always offer something on the type but still offer excellent
menu that will fill you up. Even more convenient are the soups and sushi. The best are
many bars on wheels or small kiosks – Imbissbuden – that Sushi Bar Ishin, Sushi Izumi,
serve the traditional Berlin Currywurst (see p228). Tao, FUKU Sushi and Musashi.
Langano in Kreuzberg serves
deliciously spiced Ethiopian
platters; it is customary to eat
Imbissbuden and further afield. Turkish restaurants here with your hands. Taquiera
Snack Bars serving excellent Döner kebabs Ta’Cabron offers Mexican street
The classic Imbissbude is a are on every corner. Typically a food such as tacos and burritos.
simple little kiosk selling drinks kebab is a piece of warmed flat
and a few light snacks, such pitta bread stuffed with hot
as Currywurst or French fries sliced meat, lettuce, cucumber Light Snacks
(Pommes) served with mayon and tomatoes, and covered with Those with an appetite for more
naise or ketchup (or both). a thick, aromatic, yoghurtbased traditional snacks are catered
The former is a genuine Berlin sauce. Obviously the best for in the establishments around
speciality consisting of grilled, kebabs are made by the Turks S and UBahn stations and on
sliced sausage (Bratwurst), living around Kreuzberg, but the main streets offering fresh
topped with a spicy sauce and you can also have an excellent baguettes with ham or cheese.
served on a paper plate with a version of this dish in most of For an instant solution to
plastic fork. These kiosks are the other Berlin districts. The hunger pangs, try one of the
usually located in convenient restaurants worth trying are bakeries that offer delicious,
sites near the SBahn or UBahn Hasir, Maroush or indeed any freshly baked croissants or
stations, or on busy streets of the places around Kottbuser excellent Brezeln (pretzels)
and junctions. Ku’damm 195, Tor or Oranienstrasse. covered with coarse salt. At
Curry36 and Konnopke are Vegetarians should opt lunchtime, the popular Nordsee
considered the best places to for falafel, a Middle Eastern chain of restaurants offers fish
experience traditional Currywurst, speciality widely available in sandwiches to take away, as does
served with a homemade sauce Berlin. Balls of chickpeas and the stylish Let’s Go Sylt. Some
instead of the now more usual coriander or parsley are rolled in sandwich bars offer a selection
tomato ketchup sprinkled with breadcrumbs and deepfried, of quiches and tarts alongside
curry powder and fiery paprika. then served stuffed inside flat baguettes and rolls.
Other popular snacks sold on bread with salad and yoghurt If a traditional American
the streets include other grilled sauce. The best places to try this Jewish bagel bar is what you
sausages, collectively referred to excellent snack are around fancy, then Bagels & Bialys in
as Bratwurst. The most common Winterfeldtplatz, for example Rosenthaler Strasse is the place
types are frankfurters (Wienerwurst) Habibi, Dada Falafel and to go; the variety of fillings on
and a thicker kind of sausage Baharat Falafel, or Baraka in offer is quite staggering.
known as Bockwurst. These are the eastern part of the city. The Some places also specialize in
heated in hot water. The German grilled fresh vegetable kebabs at one particular kind of dish or
variation on the hamburger Mustafa’s Gemüsekebap stall food. For example, Soup-Kultur
theme is called Boulette. on Mehringdamm are also a and Intersoup serve only soup,
Unfortunately there are few delicious vegetarian option. but in a multitude of varieties –
places similar to the Imbissbuden Fragrant Asian dishes are hot, cold, exotic, spicy or mild.
that offer food from other offered by Hamy Cafe in Garliclovers should visit Knofel
regions of Germany. One of the Hasenheide, while those with a in Prenzlauer Berg. Also worth
exceptions is Spätzleexpress, passion for Chinese food should mentioning are Deli 31 and
which also offers southern eat at Pagode in Kreuzberg on Deli Street.
German dishes such as Spätzle, Bergmannstrasse. If you wish to Another way to obtain a quick
Knödel and Maultaschen. try Korean cuisine, then pay a and inexpensive fillup are self
visit to Korea-Haus on Danziger service pizzerias such as Piccola
Strasse, which serves a good Italia. Another authentic pizza
Specialities from value “all you can eat” Korean restaurant is Mr Pizz on
around the World buffet. A visit to Chay Village is Kantstrasse, owned by Italians
Traditional Berlin specialities are a good opportunity to try out who pay special attention to the
facing stiff competition from some Vietnamese specialities. ingredients used.
Eating in Shopping Café im Jüdischen Museum in Kurfürstenstrasse, has been

Centres is a café/restaurant serving joined by another branch in
One of the problems for the Jewish specialities at the Mitte, on Unter den Linden,
dedicated shopper is that Jüdisches Museum. Sarah whose cakes are almost as
eating can seriously cut down Wiener im Hamburger Bahnhof, refined as those at the
on shopping time. Fortunately, in the modern art museum, has Caffeehaus am Roseneck (see
many snack bars in shopping some great German cakes, and p259). St. Oberholz in Mitte is
centres have put the emphasis the café inside the Café im Haus popular with freelance workers
on fast service. Some, however, am Waldsee serves small snacks who need wireless Internet
such as KaDeWe, manage this and drinks in the lush garden. access and good coffee.
in stylish surroundings. A visit While taking a walk around
to this enormous shop features Checkpoint Charlie, you could
on most tourists’ list of things to Cafés drop into Sale e Tabacchi, an
do, and its self-service café is Berlin is well served by cafés excellent Italian restaurant.
therefore very popular. Lunch at that provide a wide range of There are many places that
one of the tables with a view of light snacks or cakes to suit offer light lunches and coffee
Wittenbergplatz is a very pleasant everyone’s budget and tastes. around Oranienburger Strasse
adjunct to a Berlin shopping They are normally open from and Alte and Neue Schönhauser
trip. The Duke is another good 9 or 10am in the morning until Allees. In the evening they
choice and is just around the late at night. In the mornings attract livelier crowds in search
corner from both the KaDeWe they serve breakfast, either à la of decent music and good beer.
and Peek & Cloppenburg stores, carte or as a buffet. After that Recommended is Die Eins, an
off Taventzienstrasse. This stylish the regular café menu comes atmospheric café.
restaurant serves light German into force, although breakfast An enjoyable evening can be
and American fare, making it a items are often still available. spent investigating the options
popular lunch spot. Other Main meals on the menu might in Prenzlauer Berg. Join the
equally busy venues are the include a choice of salads, in-crowd at Anita Wronski, a
self-service café situated in the several hearty soup-type stews friendly café on two levels with
basement of the chic Galeries (Eintöpfe) and a few simple menus in English and excellent
Lafayette in Friedrichstrasse hot dishes. Prices are quite people-watching from the
and the café in Karstadt. reasonable, not greater than tables outside. If you prefer
For those reluctant shoppers €10. Invariably, every café has somewhere cosy, try Anna
who prefer to keep more a great choice of desserts, ice Blume, with tables spilling out
emphasis on the food, there creams and cakes, as well as directly on Kollwitzplatz. On hot
is an oasis of bars and cafés a range of alcoholic drinks. days a good spot to enjoy the
near Potsdamer Platz, in the Around the Technical sun is on the terrace of
Arkaden shopping centre. As University, Café Hardenberg November or at Seeblick,
well as a branch of Salomon is popular with students, and which is a good place to eat.
Bagels, this centre provides a near Kantstrasse you can visit Other reliable cafés that are
taste of the Orient in the Asia Schwarzes Café, which is open well worth looking out for
Pavillon, while fans of potatoes 24 hours a day. If you are on include the Atlantic and the
should pay a visit to Pomme Savignyplatz you might want to Keyser Soze.
de Terre. Here, the humble try Café Brel. Café am Neuen
vegetable becomes the star See is situated near the lake in
of the meal and is served in a the Tiergarten Park. Buchwald, a Coffee Bars
myriad of guises and with just patisserie in Hansaviertel, offers and Tearooms
as many different fillings. a wide range of Baumkuchen There are not many coffee bars
For short stops in Arkaden, (so-called “tree cakes”, which in Berlin, but they are easily
both the dedicated and the resemble tree stumps). spotted, as they tend to be run
reluctant shopper should visit Kreuzberg’s Oranienstrasse by well-known coffee producers
the classic Wiener Café for has an array of good cafés, such as Eduscho or Tschibo.
coffee and cakes, or Caffé e including Milch und Zucker Barcomi’s is a real treat, an
Gelato for delicious ice cream. and Pfeiffers. You can also American-style coffee bar with
explore Graefestrasse, where its own roasting room and a
you’ll find the delightful large selection of coffees. If you
Eating in Museums Café Matilda. need more sustenance than
As a city offering a wealth of Other renowned cafés include coffee and muffins, try
culture, many of Berlin’s the charming Café Wintergarten, Barcomi’s Deli, where you can
museums have established located in the Literaturhaus build your own sandwiches.
excellent cafés and bistros. on Fasanenstrasse, and the If you want a good cup of
Café im Zeughaus at the Viennese-style Café Einstein. tea, then you should head for
Deutsches Historisches Museum Here you can enjoy coffee made Tadschikische Teestube, or
offers a great breakfast with with beans fresh from their own TTT (Tee, Tea, Thé), where the
views of the river Spree, while roasting room. The original café, choice is quite amazing.
246  travellers’ needs
DIRECTORY
Imbissbuden and FUKU Sushi Taqueria Ta’Cabron Piccola Italia
Snack Bars Husemannstrasse 14. Skalitzer Strasse 60. Oranienburger Strasse 6.
Tel 44 04 90 77. Open 1–11pm Tue–Sun. Map 9 B2. Tel 283 58 43.
Curry36 Open noon–11pm Mon– Open noon–1am daily.
Mehringdamm 36. Tao
Fri, 4–11pm Sat & Sun.
Map 14 F4.
Wilmersdorferstrasse 94. Soup-Kultur
Habibi Map 11 A2. Kurfürstendamm 224.
Tel 251 73 68.
Goltzstrasse 24. Tel 88 77 38 87. Map 12 D1.
Map 13 A3. Open noon–11pm daily. Tel 88 62 92 82. Open
Konnopke Tel 215 33 32. noon–6:30pm Mon–Sat.
Vietnam Imbiss
Schönhauser Allee 44b Open 11am–3am Sun–
Damaschkestrasse 30.
(U-Bahnhof Eberswalder Thu, 11am–5am Fri & Sat.
Tel 324 93 44. Open
Eating in
Str). Shopping Centres
Hamy Cafe noon–9pm Mon–Sat.
Tel 442 77 65. Hasenheide 10. Duke
Open 10am–8pm Map 16 E5. Light Snacks Nurnbergerstrasse 50–55.
Mon–Fri, noon–8pm Sat. Tel 61 62 59 59. Map 12 A2.
Bagels & Bialys
Ku’damm 195 Hasir Rosenthaler Strasse Tel 68 31 54 00. Open
Kurfürstendamm 195. Oranienburger Strasse 4. 46–48. Map 9 B2. 11:30am–11pm daily.
Map 11 B2. Map 9 B2. Tel 283 65 46. Galeries Lafayette
Tel 881 89 42. Tel 28 04 16 16. Open 8am–11pm Mon– Französische Strasse 23.
Open 11am–5am Mon– Open 11:30am–1am daily. Sat, 9am–10pm Sun. Map 8 F4, 15 C3.
Thu, 11am–6am Fri & Sat, Korea-Haus Deli 31 Tel 20 94 80.
noon–5am Sun. Danziger Strasse 195. Bleibtreustrasse 31. Open 10am–8pm
Tel 423 34 41. Map 11 B2. Mon–Sat.
Spätzleexpress
Open noon–midnight Tel 88 47 41 01. KaDeWe
Wiener Strasse 11,
Tue–Sun. Open 11am–9pm Tauentzienstrasse 21–24.
Kreuzberg. Map 16 F2.
Mon–Sat. Map 12 E1. Tel 21 21 0.
Tel 69 53 44 63. Langano
Kohlfurter Strasse 44. Deli Street Open 10am–8pm Mon–
Open noon–10pm daily.
Map 16 D3. Chauseestrasse 4. Thu, 10am–9pm Fri,
Weitzmann Tel 6150 7103. Map 8 F1. 9:30am–8pm Sat.
Lüneburger Strasse 390. Open 4pm–midnight daily. Tel 28 09 28 33. Karstadt
Map 7 A3. Open 8:30am–4:30pm
Maroush Kurfürstendamm 231.
Tel 394 20 57. Mon–Thu, 8:30am– Map 12 D1. Tel 880 030.
Adalbertstrasse 93.
Open 6–11pm Tue–Sat. 4pm Fri. Open 10am–8pm
Map 16 E2.
Tel 69 53 61 71. Intersoup Mon–Sat.
Specialities from
Open 11am–2am daily. Schliemanstrasse 31. Potsdamer Platz
Around the World
Map 8 F1. Tel 23 27 30 45. Arkaden
Musashi
Baharat Falafel Open 5pm–midnight Alte Potsdamer Strasse 7.
Kottbusser Damm 102.
Winterfeldstrasse 37. daily. Map 8 D5. Open
Map 16 E3.
Map 13 B3. Tel 693 20 42. Knofel 10am–9pm Mon–Sat.
Tel 216 83 01. Open noon–10:30pm Wichertstrasse 33.
Open 11am–2am daily. Mon–Sat, 2–10pm Sun. Tel 447 67 17. Eating in
Open Nov–Apr: 6pm–late Museums
Baraka Oshima Sushi Bar
Mon–Thu, 2pm–late Fri, Café Dix
Lausitzer Platz 6. Pariser Strasse 39–40.
1pm–late Sat & Sun; May–
Map 16 F2. Map 11 B2. Berlinische Galerie, Alte
Oct: 6pm–late daily.
Tel 612 63 30. Tel 505 61 877. Jakobstrasse 128.
Open noon–midnight Open noon–9pm La Focacceria Map 9 C5.
Mon–Thu, noon–1am Fri, Mon–Sat. Fehrbellinerstrasse 24. Open 10am–7pm daily.
Map 8 F1. Tel 44 03 27 71.
Sat & Sun. Pagode Café im Jüdischen
Bergmannstrasse 88. Museum
Briganti
Map 15 A4. Let’s Go Sylt Jüdisches Museum,
Wielandstrasse 15.
Tel 691 26 40. Kurfürstendamm 212. Lindenstrasse 9–14.
Map 11 B1.
Open noon–11pm Mon– Map 11 C2. Map 15 A2.
Tel 323 53 62. Open 10am–10pm Mon,
Thu, noon–midnight Tel 88 68 28 00. Open
Open 11am–7pm Tue– Fri–Sun. 11am–midnight Mon– 10am–8pm Tue–Sun.
Fri, 10am–4pm Sat. Sat, noon–midnight Sun.
Sushi Bar Ishin Café im Zeughaus
Dada Falafel Schlossstrasse 101. Nordsee Deutsches Historisches
Linienstrasse 132. Map 4 E4. Spandauer Strasse 4. Museum, Unter
Map 8 F1. Tel 797 10 49. Map 9 C3, 16 F2. den Linden 2. Map 9
Tel 27 59 69 27. Open 11am–8pm Tel 24 26 881. A3. Open 10am–
Open 10am–2am daily. Mon–Sat. Open 10am–8pm daily. 6pm daily.
Sarah Wiener im Café Morgenrot Gorky Park Coffee Bars and

Hamburger Bahnhof Kanstanienallee 85. Weinbergsweg 25. Tea Rooms
Invaliden Strasse 50–51. Tel 44 31 78 44. Tel 44 87 286. Open
Map 8 D1. Open noon–1am Tue– 9:30am–1am daily. Balzac Coffee
Tel 707 136 50. Thu, 11am–3am Fri & Sat, Knesebeckstrasse 1.
Kaffeestube im Map 5 C5.
Open 10am–6pm Tue– 11am–midnight Sun.
Nikolaiviertel
Fri, 11am–8pm Sat, Friedrichstrasse 125.
Café Oliv Poststrasse 19. Map 9 C3.
11am–6pm Sun. Map 15 C4, 6 F4.
Münzstrasse 8. Tel 24 63 06 41. Open
Map 9 C2. 9am–midnight daily. Open 7:30am–7:30pm
Cafés Mon–Fri, 8:30am–7:30pm
Tel 89 20 65 40.
Keyser Soze Sat, 8:30am–6:30pm Sun
Anita Wronski Open 8:30am–7pm
Tucholskystrasse 33.
Knaackstrasse 26–28. Mon–Fri, 9:30am–7pm Barcomi’s
Map 9 A1.
Tel 442 84 83. Sat, 10am–6pm Sun. Bergmannstrasse 21.
Tel 28 59 94 89.
Open 9am–late daily. Café Rix Open 8am–3am daily. Map 15 A5.
Karl-Marx-Strasse 141. Tel 694 81 38.
Atlantic Kleine Orangerie
Tel 686 9020. Open 8am–9pm Mon–
Bergmannstrasse 100. Spandauer Damm 20.
Open 9am–midnight Sat, 9am–9pm Sun.
Map 14 F4. Map 4 E3. Tel 322 20 21.
Tel 691 92 92. Mon–Thu, 9am–1am Fri & Barcomi’s Deli
Open 9am–midnight
Open 9:30am–1pm daily. Sat, 10am–midnight Sun. Sophienstrasse 21
daily.
Café Ständige (second courtyard).
Buchwald Milch und Zucker
Vertretung Map 9 B1.
Bartningallee 29. Oranienstrasse 37.
Schiffbauerdamm 8. Tel 28 59 83 63.
Map 6 F2. Tel 391 59 31. Map 16 D2.
Tel 282 39 65. Open 9am–9pm Mon–
Open 9am–6pm Mon– Tel 61 67 14 97.
Open 11am–late daily. Sat, 10am–
Sat, 10am–6pm Sun. Open 7am–8pm Mon–Fri, 9pm Sun.
Café am Neuen See Café Wintergarten im 8am–8pm Sat & Sun.
Literaturhaus Einstein Coffeeshop
Lichtensteinallee 1. November
Fasanenstrasse 23. Friedrichstrasse 166.
Map 6 F5. Tel 254 49 30. Husemannstrasse 15.
Map 12 D1. Map 8 F4.
Open 8am–late Mon–Fri, Tel 442 84 25. Open 7am–8pm Mon–Fri,
9am–late Sat & Sun. Tel 882 54 14.
Open 10am–2am Mon– 7:30am–8pm Sat,
Open 9:30am–1am daily.
Café Brel Fri, 9am–2am Sat & Sun. 9am–6pm Sun.
Savignyplatz 1. Caffeehaus am Friedrichstrasse 185.
Pfeiffers
Map 11 C1. Roseneck Map 8 F4.
Oranienstrasse 17.
Tel 318 00 20. Hohenzollerndamm 92. Open 8am–8pm Mon–
Map 16 E2.
Open 9am–1am daily. Tel 895 96 922. Sat, 9am–6:30pm Sun.
Tel 61 65 86 09.
Open 7:30am–10pm
Café Cinema Open 8:30am–late Mon– Savignyplatz 11.
Mon–Fri, 8am–7pm Sat,
Rosenthaler Strasse 39. Fri, 9am–late Sat, 10am– Map 11 C1.
9am–7pm Sun.
Map 9 B2. Tel 280 64 15. late Sun. Open 8:30am–7pm
Open noon–2am daily. Chagall Mon–Sat, 9am–6pm Sun.
St. Oberholz
Kollwitzstrasse 2.
Café Einstein Rosenthaler Strasse 72a. Tadschikische
Tel 441 58 81.
Kurfürstenstrasse 58. Map 9 B1. Tel 214 61 311. Teestube
Open 10am–2am daily.
Map 13 A2. Tel 261 50 96. Open 8am–midnight Oranienburger Strasse 27
Open 8am–1am daily. Die Eins Mon–Fri, 9am–midnight (in the Kunsthof arts
Wilhelmstrasse 67A Sat & Sun. centre). Map 9 A2.
Unter den Linden 42.
(eingang Reichstagsufer). Tel 204 11 12.
Map 8 F3, 15 C3. Sale e Tabacchi Open 4pm–midnight
Map 8 E3.
Tel 204 36 32. Rudi-Dutschkestrasse 23.
Tel 22 48 98 88. Mon–Fri, noon–midnight
Open 7am–10pm daily. Tel 252 11 55. Open
Open 9am–midnight Sat & Sun.
10am–11:30pm daily.
Café Hardenberg Mon–Sat, 10am– TTT – Tee, Tea, Thé
Hardenbergstrasse 10. midnight Sun. San Remo Goltzstrasse 2.
Map 5 C5. Tel 312 26 44. Falckensteinstrasse 46. Map 13 A4.
Dolores
Open 9am–1am daily. Tel 74 07 30 88. Tel 21 75 22 40.
Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse
Open noon–late daily. Open 9am–8pm
Café Lebensart 7. Map 9 C2.
Unter den Linden 69–73. Tel 28 09 95 97. Schwarzes Café Mon–Sat, 10am–8pm
Map 8 E3, 15 B3. Open 11:30am–10pm Kantstrasse 148. Sun (all year).
Tel 447 21 930. Mon–Sat, 1–10pm Sun. Map 11 C1.
Open 9am–10pm Sun– Tel 313 80 38.
Filmbühne am
Thu, 9am–11pm Fri & Sat. Open 24 hours daily.
Steinplatz
Café Matilda Hardenbergstrasse 12. Seeblick
Graefestrasse 12. Map 6 D5. Rykestrasse 14.
Map 16 D4. Tel 312 65 89. Tel 442 92 26.
Tel 81 79 72 88. Open 9am–midnight Open 10am–2am Mon–
Open 9am–2am daily. daily. Fri, 10am–noon Sat & Sun.
Bars and Wine Bars By way of contrast, at Lutter &

Wegner in Mitte you can
Trying to make a clear distinction between wine bars, bars, match German-Austrian food
pubs and Bierstuben or giving a precise definition for the with appropriate, native wines,
word Kneipe is practically impossible. Regardless of the or sample a selection of
nuances behind all these names, they do share some basic American snacks and cocktails
characteristics: they are places where drinking is the primary at Billy Wilder’s.
activity, although eating is sometimes possible; they are usually
open from late afternoon or early evening but do not close till Bars
late at night or even till morning, if the atmosphere is lively. A Berlin bar is a good place
to finish your evening, and
the dedicated barfly is spoiled
Kneipen and pubs. At Ankerklause for choice. You should not
In general terms, a Kneipe students and political activists count on food but you can
means a cosy sort of place come together to drink, dance drink till late, as most bars do
which serves beer (although and put the world to rights. not open until 8pm or later.
other drinks are available, too) Although there is no strict
and where you can have dress code, scruffy clothes are
something to eat. The typical Biergärten not really appropriate. The
Alberliner Kneipe is a dark room A Biergarten is an outdoor Riva Bar, one of the city’s
with panelled oak walls, a big venue only open during the most elegant and hip bars, is
bar and buffet with snacks summer months, and usually tucked away under the S-Bahn
such as Buletten (made from located somewhere scenic, viaduct, and serves some of
pork), Soleier (pickled eggs), maybe in a park or by a lake. the best cocktails in town. A
Rollmöpse (marinated herring) In addition to the usual food Latin American atmosphere
and a selection of cold meats, and drinks, it completes the is created at Roter Salon by
black pudding (blood sausage) outdoor experience with a tango, salsa and all the
and patés. This kind of barbecue. Golgatha and fantastic dancers. You might
traditional pub can still be Schleusenkrug provide a step in to Vox Bar to try one of
found in the less affluent much welcome breath of fresh its huge range of cocktails in a
districts of Berlin – in Moabit, air in the centre of Berlin; or if pre-war movie setting. Don’t
Kreuzberg and in Neukölln, you are exploring Prenzlauer forget to visit some of the
for example – but they are not Berg, try the Prater. After hotel bars, which are among
as common in the city centre. enjoying the views in Tier- the best late-night venues in
Among the most popular are garten, the Café am Neuen the city. Two worthy of
Zur Kneipe and Ranke 2, as See is a pleasant place to mention are Harry’s New York
well as several Kneipen in end the day. Bar (the later the better), in the
Mitte around the Nikolaiviertel, A Berlin trend is the open- Hotel Esplanade and the
including Zum Nussbaum. air beach bar situated on Newton Bar.
Each Kneipe has its own one of the city’s waterways.
character. More and more of A popular and attractive one
them are choosing modern is Strandbar Mitte. Gay and Lesbian Bars
and inventive interiors, often Berlin has a unique tradition
specializing in less traditional of nightlife for gay people,
kinds of food: Italian, French or Wine Bars dating back to the 1920s,
Oriental. Whatever the blend, Berlin wine bars tend to have when its cabarets and
however, a relaxed atmosphere a Mediterranean feel to them. bars, especially around
and a big choice of alcoholic Interiors are often quite rustic Nollendorfplatz, were the
beverages seem to be in style, but there are most outrageous in Europe.
common features. Many exceptions. They open from Today that hardcore legacy
Kneipen are evolving into a early evening and stay open remains, but there are also
fashionable mix of Kneipe, bar, late. As for food, menus feature bars to suit every taste. Some,
lounge and beer garden. One predominantly Italian, Spanish like Café Seidenfaden, are
such is Reingold in Mitte. In and French cuisine, while the for women only, while Roses
Savignyplatz, you might want bar serves a huge selection of is exclusively for men. Many,
to visit Dicke Wirtin, where you wines by the glass, bottle or such as Die Busche and
can try a hearty Eintopf (a rich carafe. Wiener Beisl, a wine bar Himmelreich, are frequented by
soup-type stew). The majority with an established reputation, both gays and lesbians. For a
of these fashionable places features French food and wine. more mixed ambience, the
are situated in Kreuzberg and If you are visiting Prenzlauer friendly attitude of bars such as
in Prenzlauer Berg – especially Berg, you might want to try Heile Welt or SO36 means they
around Kollwitzplatz, which is Weinstein, which offers French are popular with both gay and
dotted with all sorts of bars and Spanish food and wine. straight visitors alike.
DIRECTORY
Kneipen Golgatha Green Door Heile Welt
Dudenstrasse 40, in Winterfeldtstrasse 50. Motzstrasse 5.
Ankerklause Viktoriapark. Tel 215 25 15. Map 13 A2.
Maybachufer 1. Map 14 E5. Tel 21 91 75 07.
Map 16 E3. Haifischbar
Tel 78 52 453.
Arndtstrasse 25. Himmelreich
Tel 693 56 49.
Prater Map 15 A5. Simon-Dach-Strasse
Dicke Wirtin Kastanienallee 7–9. Tel 691 13 52. 36, 10245
Carmerstrasse 9. Map 3 A5, 3 B3. Tel 29 36 92 92
Harry’s New York Bar
Map 5 C5. Tel 448 56 88. Möbel Olfe
Lützowufer 15 (in Hotel
Tel 312 49 52. Reichenbergerstrasse 177.
Schleusenkrug Esplanade).
Diener Tattersall Müller-Breslau-Strasse at Map 13 A1. Map 16 D2.
Grolmanstrasse 47. Tiergartenschleuse. Tel 25 47 80. Tel 23 27 46 90.
Map 11 C1. Map 6 E4. Roses
Kumpelnest 3000
Tel 881 53 29. Tel 313 99 09. Oranienstrasse 187.
Lützowstrasse 23.
Strandbar Mitte Map 13 B1. Map 16 E2.
Gasthaus L.e.n.t.z
Am Monbijoupark. Tel 26 16 918. Tel 615 65 70.
Stuttgarter Platz 20.
Tel 324 16 19. Map 9 C1. Newton Bar SO36
Tel 28 38 55 88. Charlottenstrasse 57. Oranienstrasse 190.
Meilenstein Map 15 B1, 16 D1.
Map 9 A4.
Oranienburger Strasse 7. Wine Bars Tel 20 29 54 21. Tel 61 40 13 06.
Map 9 B2.
Billy Wilder’s Riva Bar
Tel 282 89 95.
Potsdamer Strasse 2. Dircksenstrasse,
Ranke 2 Map 8 D5. S-Bahnbogen 142.
Rankestrasse 2. Tel 26 55 48 60. Map 9 C2.
Map 12 E1. Tel 24 72 26 88.
Lutter & Wegner
Tel 883 88 82. Charlottenstrasse 56. Roter Salon
Reingold Map 9 A4. Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2.
Novalisstrasse 11. Tel 202 95 40. Map 9 C1.
Map 8 F1. Weinstein Tel 41 71 75 12.
Tel 28 38 76 76. Lychener Strasse 33. Times Bar (cigar bar)
Restaurant Zur Tel 441 18 42. Fasanenstrasse 9–10.
Gerichtslaube Wiener Beisl Map 12 D1.
Poststrasse 28. Kantstrasse 152. Tel 31 10 30.
Map 9 C3. Map 12 D1. Trompete
Tel 241 56 97. Tel 31 01 50 90. Lützowplatz 9. Map 13 A1.
Tel 22 35 75 59.
Slumberland Bars
Goltzstrasse 24. Vox Bar at the
Map 13 A3. Altes Europa Grand Hyatt
Tel 216 53 49. Gipsstrasse 11. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2.
Map 9 B1. Map 8 D5.
Zum Nussbaum Tel 28 09 38 40. Tel 030 2553 1234.
Am Nussbaum 3.
Map 9 C3. Ballhaus Berlin Zur Fetten Ecke
Tel 242 30 95. Chausseestrasse 102. Schlesische Strasse 16.
Map 8 F1. Tel 44 65 16 99.
Zum Patzenhofer Tel 282 75 75.
Meinekestrasse 26. Gay and
Bar am Lützowplatz Lesbian Bars
Map 12 D1.
Lützowplatz 7.
Tel 882 11 35.
Map 13 A1. Die Busche
Zur Kneipe Tel 262 68 07. Warschauer Platz 18.
Rankestrasse 9. Tel 296 08 00.
b-flat
Map 12 D2. Rosenthaler Strasse 13. Café Seidenfaden
Tel 883 82 55. Map 9 B1. Dircksenstrasse 47.
Tel 283 31 23. Map 9 C3.
Biergärten Tel 283 27 83.
Gainsbourg – Bar
Café am Neuen See Americain The Coven
Lichtensteinallee 2. Savignyplatz 5. Kleine Präsidentenstrasse 3.
Map 6 F5. Map 11 B1, C1. Map 9 C1.
Tel 25 44 930. Tel 313 74 64. Tel 24 08 55 02.
SHOPPING IN BERLIN
With a shopping centre in every district, each while the top fashion houses offer the latest
selling a wide variety of merchandise, Berlin is in European elegance. Early on Saturday
a place where almost anything can be morning is often the best time to visit the
bought, so long as you know where to look. city’s various markets, the most popular of
The most popular places are Kurfürstendamm which – with their colourful stalls full of hats,
and Friedrichstrasse, but the smaller shops in bags and belts – can be found on Museum
Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain, Schöneberg Island and at the Tiergarten. The Galeries
and the Tiergarten are also worth a visit. Small Lafayette, KaDeWe and any of the city’s
boutiques selling flamboyant Berlin-style numerous bookshops all make ideal venues
clothes crop up in unexpected courtyards, for a pleasant afternoon’s window shopping.
everything you need is on sale –

from unusual perfumes and
elegant underwear to haute
couture, all sold in a system of
shops-within-shops. The food
hall on the sixth floor is
legendary for its restaurant
overlooking Tauentzienstrasse.
Galeries Lafayette on
Friedrichstrasse is nothing less
than a slice of Paris placed in
the heart of Berlin. Perfumes, A typical street-side stall, brimming with
domestic accessories and souvenirs for visitors
clothing attract an enormous
Inside the modern, multi-level clientele, many of whom also an enormous choice and the
Europa-Center (see p154) visit the food counter, which top-floor restaurant offers
offers a wide range of French excellent views over the city.
Opening Hours specialities. An extraordinary
The majority of shops are open glass cone rises through the
Monday to Friday from 10am to middle of the store, reflecting Shopping Centres
8pm (10am to 6pm or 8pm on the interiors of the shops. In addition to the two biggest
Saturday), but some depart- Another very popular store shopping districts in town –
ment stores open as early as is Karstadt on the Ku’damm. the Ku’damm and Fried-
9am. The larger stores may open Although its range of goods richstrasse – shopping centres
until 10pm or midnight on is not as broad as the range at are constantly being built,
Friday and Saturday. Galeries Lafayette, there is still usually conveniently situated
Generally, there are no lunch
breaks unless the shop is a one-
person business. During the
six weeks before Christmas,
shops stay open until late on
Saturdays. Most shops close
on Sundays. If you are in need
of groceries or food, try one of
the main train stations. You’ll
find supermarkets open at
Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstrasse
and Ostbahnhof.
Department Stores
Kaufhaus Des Westens, better
known as KaDeWe at
Wittenbergplatz (see p159), is
undoubtedly the biggest and
the best department store in
Germany. Only products of the
highest quality are sold in these
luxurious halls, where virtually The spacious interior of the Hugendubel department store
SHOPPING IN BERLIN  251
DIRECTORY
Department Stores
Galeries Lafayette
Map 9 A4. Tel 20 94 80.
KaDeWe
Tauentzienstrasse 21–24.
Map 12 F2. Tel 21 21 0.
Karstadt
Kurfürstendamm 231.
Map 12 D1. Tel 88 00 30.
Shopping Centres
Alexa
Grunerstrasse 20.
Map 10 D3. Tel 269 340 121.
Bikini Berlin
Budapester Strasse 42–50.
Map 12 E1. Tel 55 49 64 52.
Milano tie shop on Kurfürstendamm
Mall of Berlin
close to S-Bahn stations. These place twice a year. At the end of Leipziger Platz 12.
huge arcaded passageways January, before the new year’s ∑ mallofberlin.de
contain an enormous number collections are displayed in Potsdamer Platz Arkaden
of shops. Two of the newest shop windows, you can buy Alte Potsdamer Strasse 7.
shopping centres are the winter clothes for as little as 50 Map 8 E5. Tel 255 92 70.
Bikini Berlin concept mall per cent of their original price. Das Schloss
near Zoo Station and the During the summer sales Schlossstrasse 34. Tel 66 69 120.
massive Mall of Berlin on (Sommerschlussverkauf ), which
Leipziger Platz. Like most of the take place at the end of July, Shopping Guide
shops in Berlin, they stay open you can find similarly reduced ∑ berlin-shopper.com
until 8pm during the week. summer outfits. Goods bought
One of the newest shopping in a sale are often non-
centres is the Potsdamer Platz returnable, but if you are really Shopping Guide
Arkaden. It is very popular keen to take an item back, If you are planning to do some
both as a shopping mall and a there is no harm in trying to serious shopping in Berlin, and
meeting place. It is visited by negotiate with the shop fear getting lost among the
thousands of tourists and assistant. It usually works. many possibilities, you may want
Berliners every day. A number of shops sell a to use the services of a
Of a similar character, variety of articles marketed as “shopping guide”. These are
although smaller yet still “second season” items. These are specialists in the know as to
upmarket, are the glitzy always new articles, albeit what’s on offer in the depart-
shopping malls Das Schloss, stocked for the previous season, ment stores and boutiques.
Boulevard Steglitz and the and they are offered at often
budget-oriented Forum generously reduced prices.
Steglitz, all on Schlossstrasse in You will also find that various
the southern district of Steglitz. shops specialize in top-brand
Alexa on Alexanderplatz is a jeans, selling them at much
huge shopping centre with reduced rates owing to what
some 180 stores spread over are often very minor defects.
five levels, a large food court
and extensive underground
parking. Major international How to Pay
clothing retailers, bookshops, When it comes to paying for
electronics outlets and toy goods, you may find that some
shops are all represented. small shops still insist on cash.
In the centre of Berlin there
should be a suitable cash
Seasonal Sales machine not too far away (see
All shops in Berlin empty their p284). Larger shops and
racks and shelves in the sale, or department stores will also A shop-floor display in the lobby of
Schlussverkauf, which takes accept most major credit cards. KaDeWe (see p159)
Clothes and Accessories established. NIX offers timeless

clothes made from heavy,
There are many shopping centres in Berlin, and nearly every dark fabrics and cut in
district has its own high street where residents do their classical fashion.
shopping. If it’s luxury, elegance and a wide variety of Among the other shops
goods you are after, however, then head for the shops on in Mitte, Kaviar Gauche is
famous for its gorgeous
Kurfürstendamm, Friedrichstrasse and Potsdamer Platz. This is
cocktail dresses and bridal
where all the major fashion houses and perfume makers have wear. Made in Berlin, on
their shops, right in the heart of the city. Alternatively, if you Neue Schönhauserstrasse,
want to explore the smaller boutiques of some lesser-known sells stylish vintage items.
designers, make your way to Hackescher Markt in the Mitte Berlin brand MYKITA makes
district, or to Prenzlauer Berg. high-quality eyewear that is
now conquering the world.
Another very popular place to
Women’s Fashions Helmut Lang, Christian Dior buy clothes is Chapeaux, in
The most famous fashion and Dolce e Gabbana can Charlottenburg, while Lisa D
houses are on the Ku’damm all be found here. Also very offers classic and elegant
(Kurfürstendamm) and its side popular are Anson’s and dresses by one of Berlin’s top
streets, particularly in the area the more upmarket Mientus, female designers. Young fashion
around the quietly elegant which has a second outlet on hunters looking for the latest
Fasanenstrasse. Among the Wilmersdorfer Strasse. Peek & underground trends should
many famous names doing Cloppenburg, Germany’s head to Esther Perbandt and
business here are Yves Saint second-largest speciality store, Temporary Showroom, both
Laurent, Max Mara, Bogner, sells its own budget labels as located in the trendy fashion
Louis Vuitton, Chanel and well as designer clothes by district Mitte.
Gucci. Simplicity is the order of Boss, Armani and Joop.
the day in the Designer Depot Zegna on Kurfürstendamm
shop, making it the ideal place is a flagship store for men. Shoes and Accessories
to buy a straightforward dress This Italian company sells One of the largest shoe shops
with exquisite accessories. some of the finest-quality in Berlin is Schuhtick, though
Gucci has two shops in the suits in Germany. the highest quality shoes can
area, one in Fasanenstrasse be found in the Budapester
and another in the fashionable Schuhe chain. A good selection
Quartier 206 on Friedrichstrasse. Children’s Clothing can also be found at the
The latter shares the street with Shops selling children’s clothes Görtz outlets around
many other fashion houses that can generally satisfy any taste, Kufürstendamm. The latest
specialize in women’s clothes: depending on how much you Italian designs are available
Evelin Brandt, Department are willing to spend. I Pinco at Riccardo Cartillone.
Store Quartier 206, Strenesse, Pallino offers haute couture Penthesileia, on Tucholsky-
Strenesse Blue and ETRO, for all ages. Alternatively, the strasse, offers an amusing
to name a few. The city’s first Prenzlauer Berg district, which range of handbags, which come
international fashion concept has the highest birth rate in the in all kinds of shapes and sizes. If
store, The Corner Berlin, offers whole of Germany, is dotted it’s a hat you are after, then you
a mix of rare designer clothes with small children’s boutiques need go no further than Hut
by stars such as Roland Mouret offering both brand names Up, in the Heckmannhöfen. All
and John Galliano, accessories, and handmade clothes. H&M kinds of headgear are available
beauty products and even Kinder has good-value clothes. here, from typical Russian
art in a minimalist, ultra- shlapas to party hats with
stylish setting. Rastafarian dreadlocks.
Young Designers
A number of galleries, studios
Men’s Fashions and boutiques specialize in Perfumes
For the full range of the latest the so-called Berlin style, the All of the large department
in fashion for men, on or near collections on sale usually stores, including KaDeWe and
Kurfürstendamm is the place to consisting of short-series items Galeries Lafayette, offer a
go shopping, for this is where that are produced in strictly sizeable selection of the best-
various retailers sell clothing limited numbers. At one time it known perfumes, but there are
straight from Europe’s best- was possible to find shops like also a number of specialist
known fashion houses. Patrick this across the whole of the city, shops dotted around the city.
Hellmann is certainly worth a but now they are concentrated The Douglas chain, which has
visit, with its wide choice of the mainly in the northern part of numerous outlets, has a wide
best designer labels around. the Mitte area, where a unique range of perfumes available at
Clothes by Giorgio Armani, fashion centre is firmly very reasonable prices.
Quartier 206 has a good Mr Lehmann himself continues Natural perfumes of all kinds
selection of the better-known an 80-year-long family tradition can be bought here, and its
perfumes, but if you are looking of mixing your very own policy of no animal testing is
for something unusual, then perfume from a variety of popular with customers. The
Harry Lehmann is the place 50 scents. He also stocks long- Body Shop also encourages
to visit. This unique store is a forgotten brands. The Body the return of its containers
perfume-lover’s paradise, where Shop group is popular in Berlin. for recycling.
DIRECTORY
Women’s Yves Saint Laurent Lisa D Schuhtick
Fashions Kurfürstendamm 52. Hackesche Höfe, Savignyplatz 11.
Map 11 A2. Rosenthaler Strasse Map 11 C1.
Bogner
Tel 883 39 18. 40–41. Tel 315 93 80.
Kurfürstendamm 42.
Map 11 C2. Map 9 B2. Potsdamer Platz Arkaden,
Men’s Fashions Tel 283 43 54. Alte Potsdamer Strasse 7.
Tel 88 71 77 80.
Map 8 D5.
Chanel Anson’s Made in Berlin Tel 25 29 33 58.
Kurfürstendamm 188. Schlossstrasse 34. Neue Schönhauserstrasse
Map 11 C3. Tel 79 09 60. 19. Map 9 C2. Perfumes
Tel 885 14 24. Mientus Tel 212 30 601.
Body Shop
The Corner Berlin Wilmersdorfer Strasse 73.
MYKITA (in the main hall of
Französische Strasse 40. Map 4 F3, 5 A5, 11 A1.
Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 6. Zoologischer Garten
Map 9 A4. Kurfürstendamm 52.
Map 9 C1. railway station).
Tel 94 60 30. Map 11 A2. Map 12 D1.
Tel 67 30 87 15.
Tel 323 90 77. Tel 31 21 391.
Department Store NIX
Quartier 206 Patrick Hellmann Douglas
Kurfürstendamm 190–192. Oranienburger Strasse 32.
Friedrichstrasse 71. Kurfürstendamm 216.
Map 12 D2. Map 9 A2.
Map 8 F4. Map 12 D1.
Tel 884 87 711. Tel 281 80 44.
Tel 20 94 65 00. Tel 881 25 34.
Designer Depot Peek & Cloppenburg Temporary Galeries Lafayette
Rochstrasse 2. Tauentzienstrasse 19. Showroom Parfümerie
Map 9 C2. Map 12 E1. Kastanienallee 36a. Friedrichstrasse 76–78.
Tel 28 04 67 00. Tel 21 29 00. Tel 662 04 564. Map 8 F4.
Zegna Tel 20 94 80.
ETRO Shoes and
Friedrichstrasse 71. Kurfürstendamm 185. Harry Lehmann
Map 11 B2.
Accessories Kantstrasse 106.
Map 8 F3.
Tel 20 94 61 20. Tel 887 190 90. Budapester Schuhe Map 11 A1.
Kurfürstendamm 43. Tel 324 35 82.
Evelin Brandt Children’s
Savignyplatz 6. Map 12 D1. KaDeWe Parfümerie
Clothing
Map 11 C1. Tel 88 62 42 06. Tauentzienstrasse 21–24.
Tel 313 80 80. H&M Kinder Kurfürstendamm 199. Map 12 E1.
Friedrichstrasse 78/80. Tel 21 21 0.
Gucci Map 12 D1.
Map 8 F4. Tel 60 03 47 70. Quartier 206
Kurfürstendamm 190–192.
Tel 200 739 88. Friedrichstrasse 71.
Map 11 C2. Görtz
Tel 885 63 00. I Pinco Pallino Map 8 F3.
Kurfürstendamm 13-14. Tel 20 94 65 00.
Friedrichstrasse 71. Kurfürstendamm 46.
Map 12 D1.
Map 8 F3. Map 12 D1.
Tel 88 68 37 52.
Tel 201 70 20. Tel 881 28 63.
Hut Up
Louis Vuitton Young Designers Oranienburger Strasse 32.
Friedrichstrasse 71.
Map 9 A2.
Map 8 F4. Chapeaux
Tel 28 38 61 05.
Tel 20 94 68 68. Bleibtreustrasse 51.
Map 11 B1. Penthesileia
Max Mara
Tel 312 09 13. Tucholskystrasse 31.
Kurfürstendamm 178.
Map 12 D1. Esther Perbandt Map 9 A2, 16 D1.
Tel 885 25 45. Almastadtstrasse 3. Tel 282 11 52.
Map 9 C1. Tel 88 53 67 91. Riccardo Cartillone
Strenesse &
Strenesse Blue Kaviar Gauche Oranienburger Strasse 85.
Friedrichstrasse 71. Linienstrasse 44. Map 7 C1. Map 11 C1.
Map 8 F3. Tel 20 94 60 30. ∑ kaviargauche.com Tel 281 28 21.
Gifts and Souvenirs dreamed of having an enormous

teddy bear, this is a perfect
Whether it is a piece of the Wall or a Prussian tin soldier, Berlin opportunity to fulfil the dream.
souvenirs are easy to come by. While most needs can be met Small manufacturers still
on one of the main shopping thoroughfares, there are more make old-style wooden toys,
from doll’s house furniture to
exclusive options. If you are looking for something elegant, traditional jigsaw puzzles, and
a piece of china made by Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur these make excellent gifts
Berlin (see p137) might be a good idea. Other good sources to take home. Heidi’s
are the museum shops, notably the one in the Bauhaus Spielzeugladen on Kantstrasse
Museum, with its designer household objects. For a child, a and Original Erzgebirgskunst
teddy bear is always an option – after all, the bear is the city’s on Sophienstrasse are the best
places to go for souvenirs of this
emblem. For handmade jewellery or contemporary art, head kind. Train lovers hoping to
for Berliner Kunstmarkt Unter den Linden on a Sunday. In extend their tracks and build
December, find the most beautifully crafted gifts on the more depots and stations
numerous Christmas markets all over the city, the one on should visit Michas Bahnhof on
Gendarmenmarkt being a highlight. Nürnberger Strasse, the city’s
top provider of model train set
accessories. An amazing range
Books and Music book lovers will find a vast range of goods is available here,
The best places to buy books on offer in the two branches of including model trains from
on art are the shops at major Grober Unfug. the past 100 years. They also
museums, where you will also For a huge selection of old ship internationally.
find a good selection of cards, classical and jazz vinyl records, As an old Prussian capital,
posters and general souvenirs. head to Café Horenstein in Berlin is also a good place to
The best of these are in Wilmersdorf. Lovers of techno, find Germanic lead soldiers; the
Hamburger Bahnhof (see p114– dubstep and disco music should best place to look is Berliner
15), Gemäldegalerie (see pp126– flock to the Hard Wax record Zinnfiguren Kabinett. While
9), Museum Berggruen (see store located in an old factory most of the soldiers available
p168), Schloss Charlottenburg building in Kreuzberg. If you are designed for children,
(see p164–5) and Altes Museum happen to be short of funds, collecting them is a popular
(see p77). A huge choice of books there is always the option of hobby among adults, and the
on art, design and architecture flicking through the second- rarities often fetch very high
is offered by Walther König hand CDs on offer at the Sunday prices on the market.
near Museum Island and by antique market on Strasse des
Bücherbogen at Savignyplatz. 17 Juni (see p256). The market is
Kulturkaufhaus Dussmann at always crammed with souvenirs Flowers
Friedrichstrasse is Berlin’s largest and is a great hunting ground for It is very easy to find a nice
bookstore, with four floors of collectors of old vinyl records. bouquet in Berlin. Flower shops
stock. The Bücherbogen chain stand on nearly every street
offers a huge choice of books corner and the majority of
and has several outlets Toys them are open for business
in the city. The best store for You won’t have to travel far to on Sundays. Blumen-Koch in
natural science, medicine and buy a typical Berlin teddy bear – Wilmersdorf offers an amazing
technology books is Lehmann’s. you can find them in stores all selection of beautiful and
For English-language books or over the city, especially the gift colourful plants and is famous
papers, Saint George’s is the shops in the Nikolaiviertel. If for its bouquets of exotic
place to go, with its wide choice you’re after a wider variety of flowers, which are arranged
of both English and American toys, then KaDeWe (see p159) and wrapped with real artistry.
literature. The KaDeWe also has is the place to go. Like all the
a decent English-language major department stores,
section. Prinz Eisenherz has a KaDeWe offers a whole range of China and Ceramics
good selection of gay literature. toys for children of all ages, but The history of European china
For second-hand books, try its teddy-bear section is second started in Germany in 1708.
Another Country in Kreuzberg, to none in Berlin. From the The alchemist Böttger, while
which also operates a book highly portable1-cm (0.5-inch) searching for the secret of
exchange system. Do You Read bear to the life-size 2-metre making gold, discovered
Me?! in Mitte and Motto (80-inch) model, every kind of instead how to make Chinese-
Bookshop in Kreuzberg both bear you can imagine is on style porcelain. Berlin soon
sell a wide range of fascinating sale here, so you shouldn’t be became a major producer.
magazines, including rare, small- disappointed. Also, the store can KPM (Königliche Porzellan-
distribution books published by arrange a delivery to your home, Manufaktur Berlin) (see p137)
independent publishers. Comic so if your child has always is still in operation, and its
products will satisfy even the their characteristic blue and of colourful and amusing
most choosy of porcelain coll white patterns, a wide choice of balloons. Tee Gschwendner
ectors. Plenty of newly made exquisite Thuringian ceramics and Berliner Teesalon offer
china is available, but if you are can be found in Bürgel-Haus the best selection of teas and
looking for something older, on Friedrichstrasse. teatime accessories.
then an afternoon could be spent Smart letter paper and good
in some of the city’s antique pens can be bought in Papeterie,
shops (see pp256–7). Those who Specialist Shops but if you’re still stuck for ideas,
prefer Meissen porcelain will be If you are determined to find there’s no harm in browsing
able to find it in several shops something unique, or even through the specialist depart
along the Ku’damm. quirky, you might want to visit ments in KaDeWe (see Toys)
While porcelain is expensive, some of the interesting specialist where there’s always something
an equally precious gift can be shops – like Knopf Paul, which guaranteed to catch the eye. For
made of a ceramic dish or specializes in extraordinary gifts and clothing designed by
breakfast set, traditionally buttons, or Bären-Luftballons, local artists, visit Aus Berlin on
manufactured in Thuringia. With which offers a delightful variety KarlLiebknechtStrasse.
DIRECTORY
Books and Music KaDeWe Heidi’s Bären-Luftballons
Tauentzienstrasse 21. Spielzeugladen Kurfürstenstrasse 31/32.
Another Country Map 12 E1. Tel 21 210. Kantstrasse 61. Map 11 C1.
Riemannstrasse 7. Map 4 F5. Tel 323 75 56. Tel 26 97 50.
Map 15 A4. Kulturkaufhaus
Dussmann Berliner Teesalon
Tel 69 40 11 60. Michas Bahnhof
Stuttgarter Platz 15.
Friedrichstrasse 90. Nürnberger Strasse 24.
Tel 28 04 06 60.
Autorenbuch- Map 8 F3. Map 12 E2, 12 F2.
handlung Tel 202 51 111. Tel 218 66 11. Knopf Paul
ElseUrgBogen 599–600. Zossener Strasse 10.
L & P Classics Original Map 15 A4.
Map 5 C5.
Welserstrasse 28. Erzgebirgskunst Tel 692 12 12.
Tel 313 01 51. Map 11 C1. Sophienstrasse 9. Papeterie
Bücherbogen Tel 88 04 30 43.
Map 9 B1. Uhlandstrasse 28.
Savignyplatz. Map 11 C1. Lehmann’s Tel 282 67 54. Map 11 C2.
Tel 31 86 95 11. Friedrichstrasse 128. Tel 881 63 63.
Café Horenstein Map 8 F1/2. Tel 282 70 79. Flowers
Tee Gschwendner
Fechnerstrasse 3. Motto Bookshop Blumen Damerius Kurfürstendamm 217.
Map 11 C5. Skalitzer Strasse 68. Potsdamer Platz Arkaden. Map 12 D1.
Tel 86 39 68 97. Tel 48 81 64 07. Tel 881 91 81.
Tel 20 94 44 44.
Do You Read Me?! Museum Berggruen Blumen-Koch
Auguststrasse 28. Schlossstrasse 1. Westfälische Strasse 38.
Map 9 A1. Map 4 E3.
Map 11 A4.
Tel 69 54 96 95. Tel 266 42 42 42.
Tel 896 69 00.
Gemäldegalerie Prinz Eisenherz
Matthäikirchplatz 8. Motzstrasse 23. China and
Map 7 C5. Map 11 B2. Ceramics
Tel 313 17 95.
Tel 266 424 242. Bürgel-Haus
Saint George’s Friedrichstrasse 154.
Grober Unfug
Wörther Strasse 27, Map 8 F3.
Zossener Strasse 33.
Prenzlauer Berg. Tel 20 45 26 95.
Map 15 A3. Tel 69 40 14 90.
Tel 81 79 83 33.
Torstrasse 75, 10119. KPM
Map 2 D5. Tel 281 73 31. Walther König
Wegelystrasse 1.
Burgstrasse 27.
Hamburger Bahnhof Tel 39 00 90.
Map 9 B2. Tel 25 76 09 80.
Invalidenstrasse 50/51. Friedrichstrasse 158–164.
Map 8 D1. Toys Map 8 F3. Tel 204 55 835.
Tel 266 42 42 42.
Berliner Zinnfiguren Specialist Shops
Hard Wax Kabinett
PaulLinckeUfer 44A. Knesebeckstrasse 88. Aus Berlin
Map 16 E3. Map 5 C5. KarlLiebknechtStrasse 17.
Tel 61 13 01 11. Tel 315 70 00. Map 9 C3. Tel 41 99 78 96.
Antiques and Objets d’Art radios and record players.

Some other interesting shops
The antique and art markets in Berlin are booming. New to try are Bleibtreu Antik and
galleries are opening all the time, particularly in the eastern Lakeside Antiques. There’s a
areas of town. Spandauer Vorstadt is full of antique shops and real market atmosphere in the
arcades of the S-Bahn railway
contemporary art galleries, but the northern part of Mitte (the
bridge near Friedrichstrasse
area around East of the Centre) is the focus of the Berlin art where a host of street traders
market. Constantly raising their standards, the galleries attract sell all kinds of knick-knacks,
numerous art dealers and collectors, while non-commercial from clothes and books to
exhibitions organized by art societies like NGbK, NBK and cutlery and domestic accessories.
KunstWerke add to the creative atmosphere. As for the antique
trade, a walk through any of the city’s main thoroughfares Flea Markets
should show that it is active in just about every district. Many Berliners spend their
Saturday and Sunday mornings at
Auction Houses It can also be enjoyable to walk flea markets, and after a coffee go
Berlin’s oldest and most this district on a Friday evening, for a stroll in the Tiergarten or to a
prestigious auction houses when many galleries have museum. Trödel- und Kunstmarkt,
are Gerda Bassenge and Villa opening parties (Vernissages). on Strasse des 17 Juni near
Grisebach, both of which Galleries near Kurfürstendamm, Tiergarten S-Bahn station, is the
organize sales at the start of the such as Rodendahl, Thöne und most popular market in town. It is
year and in the autumn. Bassenge Westphal, offer high-quality art divided into two parts, and the
specializes in graphic art, and a in a quieter atmosphere. Other antique section deals with books
month before each sale an galleries include ATM Gallery, and magazines as well as pricey
auction of books and autographs C/O Berlin and Michael Schultz, rarities. If you have the time and
is held. A photographic auction as well as Anselm Dreher, patience to sift through the huge
takes place a few days after the Barbara Weiss, Nature Morte amount on offer, you are likely to
main sale of graphic art. The and Galerie Stühler. The latter find some great bargains. Arts
prices are usually higher at offers a crossover of paintings, and crafts trading takes place on
Grisebach, which deals mainly design and jewellery. the other side of Charlotten-
in 19th-century paintings. burger Brücke, and the goods on
Expressionists and modern offer range from leather items
classics often go under the Antique Shops and ceramics to colourful silk
hammer here. Another good Antique shops can be found in clothes and jewellery. Shops from
auctioneer is Kunst-Auktionen every district of Berlin. Near all over Berlin are usually
Leon Spik on Ku’damm. Kurfürstendamm and around represented here.
Ludwigkirchplatz there are a From Berliner Kunst- und
number of high-class shops Nostalgiemarkt an der
Galleries offering expensive objets d’art, Museumsinsel, it is only a few
If you are pressed for time, including the exquisite Secession steps to the museums. The stalls
Spandauer Vorstadt in the trinkets in ART 1900. along Kupfergraben stand oppo-
northern part of Mitte might be Furniture specialists can be site the Pergamon- and Altes
the place to go. Since the fall of found in Suarezstrasse in Museum, and art objects, books,
the Berlin Wall, some 30 galleries Charlottenburg, where original records and other antiques are on
have been set up in the Thonets can be bought as well display around the Zeughaus.
Linienstrasse, Auguststrasse, as modern designer steel items. Young tourists and locals flock
Sophienstrasse and Gipsstrasse Browse travel-related objects at to the Flohmarkt am Mauerpark,
areas. Among these are Arndt Antik Center, or classic items occupying a stretch of land where
and Eigen & Art, both on from just a few decades ago at the Berlin Wall once stood. This
Auguststrasse, Contemporary Design 54. Another place to go lively market offers antiques,
Fine Arts, Carlier Gebauer, Max is Bergmannstrasse in Kreuzberg. curiosities, clothing, arts and crafts
Hetzler, Mehdi Chouakri and In its mildly Oriental atmosphere and home-made items every
Loock. Galerie & Buchladen you can often find valuable Sunday, and Saturdays in the
Barbara Wien and many other pieces among masses of junk. summer. It’s worth a visit just for
small galleries are on Linien- Das Zweite Büro in Zossener the celebratory atmosphere with
strasse. On so-called “open days” Strasse specializes in trading live music and street performers.
three or four times a year, all the old desks, cupboards and filing Also worth a Sunday visit is the
galleries open at the same time cabinets, which don’t come Flohmarkt Boxhagener Platz in
to exhibit new collections. One is cheap, but the quality of Friedrichshain, one of the best
always in early October, during the merchandise is excellent. small markets. For fabrics, as well
the Art Forum Berlin fair, provid- Standing opposite Das Zweite as food, try the Turkish Market
ing a chance to spot the chang- Büro is Radio Art with its on Maybachufer in Neukölln
ing trends in contemporary art. extensive collection of old each Tuesday and Friday.
The flea market operating in the memorabilia from the former old telephones and army
car park near the Fehrbelliner GDR, you should try the stalls boots to bathroom accessories
Platz U-Bahn station opens at the around Potsdamer Platz and and piles of very cheap books
weekends at 8am. You would do Leipziger Platz. However, the (5 for €2). The hall, a former
well to get there as early as quality and authenticity of what is bus depot, is worth visiting
possible, as it is full of experienced on sale is often questionable. for its interesting architecture
collectors who only need a few The Treptower Hallentrödel alone. Other flea markets to visit
minutes to spot something market on Eichenstrasse offers include Antik & Trödelmarkt
valuable. If you are after everything under one roof, from am Ostbahnhof.
DIRECTORY
Auction Houses Contemporary Mehdi Chouakri Radio Art
Fine Arts Schlegelstrasse 26. Zossener Strasse 2.
Gerda Bassenge Am Kupfergraben 10. Map 9 B1.
Erdener Strasse 5a. Map 15 A3.
Map 9 A2. Tel 28 39 11 54.
Tel 89 38 02 90. Tel 693 94 35.
Tel 28 87 870. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat.
Open 10am–6pm Mon– Open noon–6pm Thu &
Open 11am–6pm Tue– Michael Schultz
Thu, 10am–4pm Fri. Fri, 10am–1pm Sat.
Fri, 11am–4pm Sat. Mommsenstrasse 34.
Kunst-Auktionen Tel 31 99 130. Das Zwieite Büro
Leo Spik Eigen & Art
Open 11am–7pm Tue– Zopssener Strasse 6
Kurfürstendamm 66. Auguststrasse 26.
Fri, 10am–2pm Sat. Map 15 A3.
Map 12 D1. Map 9 B1.
Tel 883 61 70. Tel 280 66 05. Nature Morte Tel 693 07 59.
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat. Weydingerstrasse 6. Open 10am–6pm
Villa Grisebach Map 8 F5. Mon–Fri.
Fasanenstrasse 25. Galerie & Buchladen Tel 030 206 548 77.
Map 12 D2. Barbara Wien Open 11am–6pm
Tel 885 91 50. Schöneberger Ufer 65,
Flea Markets
Tue–Sat.
3rd floor. Antik & Trödelmarkt
Galleries Rosendahl, Thöne
Map 13 C1.
und Westphal am Ostbahnhof
Tel 28 38 53 52. Kurfürstendamm 213.
Anselm Dreher Erich-Steinfurth-Strasse.
Pfalzburger Strasse 80. Open 1–6pm Tue–Fri, Map 11 C1. Open 9am–5pm Sun.
Map 11 C2. noon–6pm Sat. Tel 882 76 82.
Tel 883 52 49. Galerie Crystal Ball Open 10am–6pm Tue– Berliner Kunst- und
Open 2–6pm Tue–Fri, Fri, 11am–3pm Sat. Nostalgiemarkt an
Schönleinstrasse 7.
11am–2pm Sat. Map 16 E4. Thomas Schulte der Museumsinsel
Arndt Tel 600 52 828. Charlottenstrasse 24. Museumsinsel &
Potsdamerstrasse 96. Open 3–8pm Tue, Fri Map 9 A3. Kupfergraben.
Map 13 C2. & Sun. Tel 20 60 89 90. Map 9 A2.
Tel 20 61 38 70. Open noon–6pm Tue–Sat.
Galerie Poll Open 11am–5pm Sat
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat.
Anna-Louisa-Karsch Antique Shops & Sun.
ATM Gallery Strasse 9.
Eylauerstrasse 13. Antik Center Flohmarkt
Tel 261 70 91.
Map 14 D5. Suarezstrasse 48. Boxhagener Platz
Open 11am–6pm Tue–
Tel 0176 34 64 222. Tel 208 26 81. Boxhagener Platz.
Fri, 11am–4pm Sat.
Open by appointment. ART 1900 Open 10am–6pm Sun.
Galerie Stühler
Barbara Weiss Kurfürstendamm 53.
Fasanenstrasse 69. Flohmarkt am
Kohlfurterstrasse 41–43. Map 11 B2.
Map 12 D1. Tel 881 56 27. Mauerpark
Map 16 D3.
Tel 881 76 33. Bernauer Strasse 63–64.
Tel 262 42 84. Bleibtreu Antik
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat. Loock Open 7am–7pm Sun.
Detmolder Strasse 62A.
Potsdamer Strasse 63. Map 11 B1. Tel 883 52 12. Treptower
Carlier Gebauer
Map 8 D1. Hallentrödel
Markgrafenstrasse 67. Design 54
Map 9 A4. Tel 394 096 850.
Suarezstrasse 54. Puschkinallee.
Tel 24 00 86 30. Open 11am–6pm
Tel 31 10 20 91. Open 10am–5pm Sat
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat. Open 11am–6:30pm Tue– & Sun.
Tue–Sat. Max Hetzler Fri, 10am–2:30pm Sat.
Goethestrasse 2/3. Turkish Market
C/O Berlin Lakeside Antiques
Hardenbergstrasse 22. Map 8 F5. Neue Kantstrasse 14. Maybachufer Neukölln.
Map 9 A1. Tel 346 497 850. Map 4 E5. Open 11am–6:30pm
Tel 28 44 41 60. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sat. Tel 25 45 99 30. Tue & Fri.
Food Products Delikatessen und Feinkost is

a wellstocked delicatessen
Food specialities from all over the world can be found in Berlin, where you can buy a variety
a fact which is due partly to the city’s own lack of traditional of prepared meats.
cuisine. Gone are the days when local fare was restricted to
pork knuckle with cabbage, cutlets, Currywurst and potatoes. Food Halls
Today the side streets and thoroughfares are teeming with the The old 19thcentury food halls
shops and restaurants of many nationalities – Italian, Greek, are not as important today as
Turkish, Spanish and French, as well as Mexican, American, they were before World War II,
Japanese, Chinese and Thai. As befits any major European when they were the chief source
capital, the food is of the highest quality, and there are more of produce. The biggest of them
all was on Alexanderplatz. The
and more shops providing organic products, from vegetables place used to teem with people
and wholemeal bread to various wines and beers. 4 hours a day, but the hall wasn’t
rebuilt after sustaining damage
during World War II. The GDR
Patisseries and conditioned and the aroma authorities had no use for such
Sweet Shops whets the appetite. A huge a large food hall, and with the
Berliners certainly have a sweet assortment of cheeses can also advent of supermarkets there
tooth, for there are plenty of be found at Vinaggio. Einhorn was no need for it.
patisseries and sweet shops all specializes in international Today there are five food halls:
over the city, and a wide range products, mainly sandwiches, Arminiusmarkthalle in Moabit,
of cakes is available. A typical pasta, meats and a wide variety the Marheineke Markthalle and
speciality is a doughnut known of cheeses. Salumeria da Pino Markthalle Neun in Kreuzberg,
simply as a Berliner, but the is also a must for cheese lovers. Domäne Dahlem Hofladen and
majority of places offer a whole Markthalle Berlin-Tegel. Most
range of cakes along with French open all day Monday to Saturday
pastries and fruits. Buchwald is Wines (Markthalle Neun only on
renowned for producing some Between them, KaDeWe and Thursday evening and all day
of the best cakes in town, mainly Galeries Lafayette have the Friday and Saturday). Typically,
to take away, but there are also a biggest wine cellars, while Berliners use the food halls to
number of patisseries, or smaller businesses usually pick up the one or two speciality
Konditoreien. Among the best specialize in wines from a items they can’t find in the
of these are the two branches particular region. Der Rioja- supermarkets. Shopping in these
of the Wiener Conditorei, Weinspezialist, for example, halls is a good opportunity to try
Caffeehaus am Roseneck and sells only wines originating traditional German Currywurst:
Caffeehaus Neu-Westend, from northern Spain, while the outlets in these food halls are
where sweet tooths can find La Vendemmia specializes in regarded as the best in town.
delicacies from Vienna. Tuscan wines. A wide selection
Leysieffer shops, with of German wines is available
their exquisite chocolates at Viniculture. Markets
and pralines, are a serious temp Markets offer an additional way
tation for chocoholics. Visitors of shopping for food. They take
should also try the large stores: Meats, Cold Cuts and Fish place twice a week, and one of
KaDeWe’s Feinschmecker Berliners eat quite a lot of meat the best is the Winterfeldtmarkt,
Etage and Galeries Lafayette’s and meat products – the latter which takes place on Wednesdays
Gourmet departments both in particular are real German from 8am until 1pm and on
have a wonderful range of specialities. So if you are not Saturdays from 8am until 4pm.
confectioneries to choose from. vegetarian you should try some On Saturdays the opening hours
thing from the bewildering are extended if the crowd is
range of sausages and meat big, which it often is. You can
Cheeses rolls. As well as the wellstocked buy everything from high
The largest selection of cheeses departments in the big stores quality fruits, through vegetables
in Berlin can be found at the KaDeWe and Galeries Lafayette, and cheeses from all over the
Gourmet in Galeries Lafayette small shops offer excellent world to clothing and domestic
which has a particularly broad quality products. Neuland accessories. Fastfood outlets
choice from France. KaDeWe’s Fleischerei Bachhuber is good. offer falafel or grilled sausages,
cheese department also offers a It specializes in chemical and and the place is surrounded
wide variety, while Maître hormonefree meats, while a by bars and cafés full of clients
Philippe sells only select broad selection of fish and and traders relaxing with a
cheeses from small producers. game is offered in KaDeWe’s glass of beer. The atmosphere
You won’t find any fridges here, delicatessen. Rogacki is another and range of goods on offer is
but the whole shop is air good fishmonger and Kropp truly international.
Türkisher Markt am Maybach Saturdays and the Markt am apples, then they should
ufer is a big Turkish market Wittenbergplatz on Thursdays. provide a good alternative.
which opens on Tuesdays In fact, Thursday is the day Depending on the season,
and Fridays. It is popular with when Wittenbergplatz is you can buy pickled gherkins
Turks living in Kreuzberg and invaded by farmers from all (Salzgurken) from the Spreewald,
Neukölln. The stalls offer all over the region offering a asparagus from the Beelitz
kinds of Turkish specialities. variety of products. You region and delicious, sweet
There are also markets in the won’t find any exotic fruits aromatic strawberries. Domäne
city centre on Kollwitzplatz – at these, but if you have Dahlem Ökomarkt offers a
the Ökomarkt and Neuer had enough of tasteless good selection of organic foods
Markt on Thursdays and supermarket tomatoes and on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
DIRECTORY
Department Wiener Conditorei Rogacki Neuer Markt am
Stores with Caffeehaus Wilmersdorfer Strasse Kollwitzplatz
Food Halls Hagenplatz 3. 145–146. Map 4 F4. Prenzlauer Berg.
Tel 89 72 93 60. Tel 343 82 50. Open 9am–4pm Sat.
Galeries Lafayette
Gourmet Ökomarkt am
Cheeses Food Halls Kollwitzplatz
Map 8 F4. Einhorn Arminiusmarkthalle Prenzlauer Berg.
Tel 20 94 80. Wittenbergplatz 5–6. Arminiusstrasse 2–4. Open noon–7pm Thu.
Map 12 F2. Map 6 E1. Türkischer Markt am
KaDeWe’s Tel 218 63 47. Open 7:30am–6pm Maybachufer
Feinschmecker Etage
Mon–Thu, 7:30am–7pm Maybachufer.
Tauentzienstrasse 21–24. Maître Philippe
Fri, 7:30am–3pm Sat. Map 16 E3, 16 F4.
Map 12 E2. Emser Strasse 42.
Tel 21 21 0. Map 11 B3, 11 C3. Domäne Dahlem Open 11am–6:30pm
Tel 88 68 36 10. Hofladen Tue & Fri.
Patisseries and Salumeria da Pino
Königin-Luise-Strasse 49, Winterfeldtmarkt
Sweet Shops Windscheidstrasse 20.
Dahlem. Winterfeldplatz.
Tel 66 63 00 23. Map 13 A3.
Buchwald Map 4 E5.
Tel 324 33 18. Marheineke Open 8am–1pm Wed,
Bartningallee 29.
Markthalle 8am–4pm Sat.
Map 6 F3. Vinaggio
Tel 391 59 31. Marheinekeplatz.
Monbijouplatz 2.
Map 15 A5.
Caffeehaus Am Map 9 B2.
Tel 6128 61 46.
Roseneck Tel 257 60 831.
Open 8am–8pm Mon–Fri,
Hohenzollerndamm 92. 8am–6pm Sat.
Tel 895 96 90. Wines
Markthalle Berlin-
Caffeehaus Der Rioja-
Tegel
Neu-Westend Weinspezialist
Gorkistrasse 13–17.
Reichstrasse 81. Akazienstrasse 13.
Tel 43 43 849.
Tel 364 10 60. Tel 782 25 78.
Open 8am–7pm Mon–Fri,
Fassbender & Rausch La Vendemmia 8am–4pm Sat.
Charlottenstrasse 60. Akazienstrasse 20.
Markthalle Neun
Map 9 A4. Tel 787 125 35.
Eisenbahnstrasse/
Tel 20 45 84 443. Viniculture Pücklerstrasse.
Kolbe & Stecher Grolmanstrasse 44–45. Open 5–10pm Thu,
Bonbonmacherei Tel 883 81 74. 10am–6pm Fri & Sat.
Heckmann Höfe,
Oranienburger Strasse 32. Meats, Cold Cuts Markets
Map 9 A1. and Fish
Domäne Dahlem
Tel 4405 52 43.
Kropp Delikatessen Ökomarkt
Leysieffer und Feinkost Königin-Luise-Strasse 49,
Kurfürstendamm 218. Karl-Marx-Strasse 82. Dahlem.
Map 12 D1. Map 16 F5. Tel 666 30023.
Tel 885 74 80. Tel 623 1090. Open 8am–1pm Sat.
Leysieffer Neuland Fleischerei Markt am
Quartier 205, Bachhuber Wittenbergplatz
Friedrichstr. 68. Güntzelstrasse 47. Wittenbergplatz.
Map 8 F4. Map 11 C4. Map 12 F2.
Tel 20 64 97 15. Tel 873 21 15. Open 10am–6pm Thu.
ENTERTAINMENT IN BERLIN
With so much on offer, from classical drama There are many nightlife centres, each with a
and cabaret to variety theatre and an eclectic slightly different character. Prenzlauer Berg is
nightclub scene, it is possible to indulge best for mainstream bars, cafés and clubs,
just about any taste in Berlin. During the while Friedrichshain has a bustling nightlife,
summer months many bars and restaurants and Kreuzberg and Schöneberg have a
set up outdoor tables, and the area around vibrant gay scene. The Mitte district (see
Unter den Linden, the Kurfürstendamm, East of the Centre, pp88–99) offers a true
Kreuzberg and Prenzlauer Berg, in particular, mixture, its opera house and classical theatre
seems to turn into one large social arena. surrounded by lively and inexpensive
The city really comes into its own at night, bars. On a Sunday, a quiet trip down the
when its clubs, all-night cafés and cocktail river or along the canals offers a pleasant
bars give you the chance to dance till dawn. way to unwind.
Tagesspiegel. All of these can

be bought at news kiosks.
For culture information in
English, pick up a copy of the
Exberliner magazine, which has
feature stories and listings.
It can be found at English-
language bookshops, as well as
a few cafés.
The monthly magazine Kunst
(Art) is a dual-language guide to
galleries and exhibitions. It also
has an informative website
(www.kunstmagazinberlin.de).
The Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra Tickets

Tickets can usually be bought
Practical Information Guides two weeks before an event, and
There are so many things You won’t be short of cultural you can buy them directly at
going on in Berlin that it can guides in Berlin. The fortnightly theatre box offices or make a
be difficult to find what you’re listings magazines Tip and Zitty, telephone booking. Reserved
looking for. The Information which cover the widest choice tickets have to be picked up
Centre offers basic information of events, are issued on and paid for at least half an hour
(see p278), but for greater detail Wednesdays, while the daily before a show. Students,
you can buy a copy of the newspaper Berliner Morgenpost pensioners and the disabled
listings magazines Tip or Zitty, has daily culture pages, as do are entitled to a 50 per cent
which offer the widest range the other major newspapers discount, but you will need
of suggestions. Information Taz, Berliner Zeitung and to present appropriate
on festivals, sports events,
cinema programmes, theatre
schedules, cabarets and
concerts can be found on
websites www.berlinonline.de
and www.visitberlin.de.
But if you’ve only just arrived
in town, and don’t want to
jump straight onto your tablet,
phone or computer, the
chances are the bar you’re
sitting in, or your hotel foyer,
has leaflets on the wall or
helpful staff to point you in
the right direction. And there is
no end of posters around town
telling you what’s on offer. The Admiralspalast entertainment complex (see p71)
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N B E R L I N  261
most efficient in Germany. Bus

and tram timetables are linked,
and there are two major inter-
change points: one on Harden-
bergplatz, near the Zoo railway
station, and the other on
Hackescher Markt. On Friday
and Saturday nights you can
also use all U-Bahn lines (except
4 and U55), which operate every
15 minutes throughout the
night. Some S-Bahn lines also
work at night over the weekend.
Every ticket office and infor-
mation point in town has
brochures with details about
night-time public transport.
Berlin’s Jazzfest features traditional jazz music (see p268)
documentation. You can also buying a ticket you must specify

pre-book tickets at special your need, as the number of
outlets all over Berlin but places is limited.
they charge a 20 per cent If you are disabled you should
commission. All the major be able to commute without
theatres and concert halls have restriction on public transport,
special wheelchair access, but as the majority of U- and S-Bahn
the number of places for the stations have lifts, and they
disabled is limited; make it clear are clearly marked on maps of
when buying a ticket that you the underground. Many buses
need an appropriate place. now have special ramps and
Tickets to some theatres include facilities for wheelchairs, but if
a pass for public transport. you experience any difficulty
If a performance has sold out, members of the BVG staff will
you can always try to find tickets always help. Afternoon with the children in the
just before the show, for some Museumsdorf Düppel (see p189)
of the pre-booked tickets may
Public Transport at Night
not have been collected. One DIRECTORY
agency which specializes in The last U-Bahn trains run just
these last-minute purchases is before 1am, but buses and Ticket Agents
called Hekticket Theaterkassen. trams continue running every
You can buy tickets on the day, half an hour, making Berlin’s Hekticket
even an hour before a perfor- night-time transport one of the Theaterkassen
mance. If someone has already Hardenbergstrasse 29d.
returned their ticket, you Map 12 D1.
might be able to buy it at a Tel 230 99 30.
50 per cent discount.
Other agencies to contact Karl Liebknechtstrasse 13.
for tickets are Interklassik, on Map 9 D2.
Friedrichstrasse, and Koka 36 Tel 230 99 30.
on Oranienstrasse in Kreuzberg.
Interklassik
In Dussmann Kulturkaufhaus,
Information for the
Friedrichstrasse 90.
Disabled
Map 8 F3.
In all the guides to theatres and
Tel 20 16 60 93.
concert halls the availability of
wheelchair access is noted by a Koka 36
distinctive blue sign. The
Oranienstrasse 29.
majority of the bigger theatres,
halls and opera houses have Map 16 E2.
special places for wheelchairs Tel 61 10 13 13.
and seats reserved for people Ornate Elephant Gate at the Zoo ∑ koka36.de
with walking difficulties. When Berlin (see p154)
Theatres meet the actors in the canteen

in the courtyard. Another venue
Thanks to Reinhardt and Brecht, Berlin became a landmark well worth visiting is Hebbel am
in the European theatre scene in the 1920s, and its success Ufer, Hau Eins – an ambitious
continues to this day. During the years of Nazi rule, many place with a programme that
includes contemporary plays
people working in the business were killed or forced to
and modern dance.
emigrate as the stage became a propaganda machine, but Other major venues include
after World War II a revival spread through Berlin’s theatres. the Maxim Gorki Theater,
At the heart of this revival were Bertolt Brecht and his Berliner which offers English subtitles,
Ensemble, and Peter Stein who ran the Schaubühne. and the Renaissance-Theater.
The Schlosspark Theater is a
former state theatre that is now
Modern History Schumannstrasse is a top-class a private enterprise with an
Following the construction of theatre and offers a varied interesting repertoire.
the Berlin Wall, the number of repertoire of productions with
venues doubled as each part of very professional modern
the divided city worked to build stagings. From the Greek Small Stages and
its own theatres. The Volksbühne classics to the modern classics Alternative Theatre
in the East had its equivalent and contemporary plays, There are a number of
in the West called the Freie the Deutches Theater has alternative theatres in Berlin,
Volksbühne, and the eastern successfully staged them all. each enthusiastically playing
acting school, the Academy, Tickets for these plays can be the works of what are generally
was matched by a second difficult to obtain, but it is lesser known authors. Hebbel
Academy in the west. worth persevering. am Ufer, Hau Eins is devoted to
The economic difficulties At Volksbühne you can avant-garde theatre and dance
caused by the reunification of see interesting performances and is considered to be the
Germany forced a number of of classical plays in modern city’s best alternative stage.
places to shut down, but the settings, as well as adaptations of The smaller boulevard theatres,
theatres of East Berlin managed books or films or pieces written like Theater am Kurfürsten-
to survive. In the west, the Freie by young writers. Concerts, damm or Komödie am
Volksbühne and the Schiller- lectures and dance evenings are Kurfürstendamm, offer
Theater (the largest stage in organized in the Red and Green different, lighter programmes.
Germany) had to close, but the Salon of the theatre, and with so Among other small theatres
Volksbühne, under Frank Castorf, much going on the Volksbühne are Bat-Studiotheater and
and the Deutsches Theater, led now seems more of a cultural Kleines Theater. There are
by Thomas Langhoff, continued centre with a multimedia many other notable venues,
to do well. Independent theatres character than just a stage. including Theater 89,
have fared equally well in both Although it was particularly Heimathafen Neukölln
parts of the city. important for German theatre and the Vagantenbühne.
The theatre season runs in the 1970s and 1980s, To enjoy theatre in English,
from September to July, with Schaubühne am Lehniner head to the English Theatre
its peak in May during Berliner Platz is no longer as popular Berlin, which produces many
Theatertreffen (Berlin Theatre as it was, which is a shame, for of its own original productions,
Forum), when many other production values don’t get as well as classics and
German theatre groups are any higher than this. The close improvisational pieces.
invited to stage their plays. attention to detail – on every-
There are also a number of thing from the sets and scenery
youth theatres which produce to the choice of music and Musicals, Reviews
the work of young writers, and the editing of the printed and Cabarets
these follow the seasons of the programme – is extraordinary, There are four main musical
major venues. and distinguishes it from the theatres in Berlin, in addition to
Repertoires are published in other theatres in town. the many small venues which fit
the listings magazines Tip and The Berliner Ensemble (or musicals into their more general
Zitty, and also displayed on BE for short) has been managed repertoire. Friedrichstadtpalast
yellow posters in U-Bahn by such influential dramatists and the historic Admiralspalast,
stations and thoughout Berlin. as Bertolt Brecht from 1949 and both in the eastern part of the
Leaflets are available in many then Heiner Müller in 1970. The city, stage many of the new
restaurants around the city. spectacles created by these two major shows as well as musicals
are still performed today. The and variety shows. A smaller
whole theatre is magnificent, stage at Friedrichstadtpalast
Major Stages and it has some superb archi- hosts cabaret. The Theater des
The Deutsches Theater and its tecture including the stage; Westens in Charlottenburg is
small hall Kammerspiele on after each performance you can more traditional, while the
Theater am Potsdamer Platz is cabarets. Among these are Bar over town, but they usually
a modern theatre set up in 1999. jeder Vernunft, Chamäleon charge a per cent commission.
As for cabaret, there are Variété, Shake! Das Zelt am Even if the theatre or concert
probably as many acts in Berlin Ostbahnhof, Scheinbar, has been sold out, there is still
today as there were in the Wintergarten Varieté and a chance of buying something
1920s, usually performed by Die Wühlmäuse. just before the performance,
small itinerant groups which provided that not all pre-booked
rely on the hospitality of tickets have been collected.
theatres for a venue. Distel, in Tickets Hekticket Theaterkassen
Friedrichstrasse, continues its It is usually possible to pre-book specializes in this kind of last-
success from GDR times, and tickets two weeks before a minute ticket. If you are lucky
Stachelschweine celebrates performance. You can buy them enough to pick up a ticket on the
its popularity in western Berlin. directly from the box office of the day of performance, you may
There are many more venues theatre or by telephone booking. find it has been returned and
for musicals, reviews and There are also ticket vendors all reduced to half its former price.
DIRECTORY
Major Stages Volksbühne Vagantenbühne Scheinbar
Linienstrasse 227. Kantstrasse 12a. Monumentenstrasse 9.
Berliner Ensemble Map 10 D1. Map 13 C5.
Map 12 D1.
Bertold-Brecht-Platz 1. Tel 30 24 06 55. Tel 784 55 39.
Tel 312 45 29.
Map 8 F2.
Small Stages and Shake! Das Zelt am
Tel 28 40 80. Alternative Musicals, Reviews Ostbahnhof
Theatre and Cabarets Am Postbahnhof 1.
Deutsches Theater
Schumannstrasse 13a. Admiralspalast Tel 29 04 78 40.
Bat-Studiotheater
Map 8 E2, 15 A1. Belforter Strasse 15. Friedrichstrasse 101. Stachelschweine
Tel 28 44 10. Tel 755 41 77 77. Map 8 F2. Europa-Center,
∑ bat-berlin.de Tel 47 99 74 99. Tauentzienstrasse 9–12.
Hebbel am Ufer Map 12 E1.
English Theatre Bar jeder Vernunft
Hau Eins Tel 261 47 95.
Berlin Schaperstrasse 24.
Stresemannstrasse 29.
Fidicinstrasse 40. Map 12 D2. Theater am
Hau Zwei Map 14 F5. Tel 883 15 82. Potsdamer Platz
Hallesches Ufer 32. Tel 691 12 11. Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4.
∑ etberlin.de
BKA Theater Tel (0180) 54 444.
Hau Drei
Mehringdamm 34.
Tempelhofer Ufer 10. Heimathafen Map 14 F4.
Theater des Westens
Map 14 F2. Neukölln Kantstrasse 12.
Tel 202 20 07.
Tel 25 90 00. Karl-Marx-Strasse 141. Map 4 E5, 11 A1, 12 D1.
Tel 56 82 13 33. Chamäleon Variété Tel (0180) 54 444.
∑ hebel-am-ufer.de
Rosenthaler Strasse
Kleines Theater Wintergarten Varieté
Maxim Gorki Theater 40–41.
Südwestkorso 64. Potsdamer Strasse 96.
Am Festungsgraben 2. Map 9 B2.
Tel 821 20 21. Map 13 C2.
Map 9 A3. Tel 40 00 59 30. Tel 58 84 33.
∑ kleines-theater.de
Tel 20 22 11 15.
Sophiensaele Distel Die Wühlmäuse
Renaissance-Theater Sophienstrasse 18. Friedrichstrasse 101. Pommernallee 2–4.
Knesebeckstrasse 100. Map 9 B1. Map 8 F2. Map 3 B5.
Map 5 C5. Tel 283 52 66. Tel 204 47 04. Tel 30 67 30 30.
Tel 312 42 02.
Theater 89 Friedrichstadtpalast Tickets
Schaubühne am Putlitzstrasse 13. Friedrichstrasse 107.
Lehniner Platz Map 8 F1. Map 8 F2. Hekticket
Tel 31 16 11 90. Theaterkassen
Kurfürstendamm 153. Tel 23 26 23 26.
Tel 89 00 23. Hardenbergstrasse 29d.
Theater und
Kalkscheune Map 12 D1.
Komödie am
Schlosspark Theater Johannisstrasse 2 (behind Tel 23 09 930.
Kurfürstendamm
Schlossstrasse 48. Kurfürstendamm Friedrichstadtpalast). Karl Liebknechtstrasse 13.
Map 4 E4. 206/209. Map 11 C2. Map 8 F2. Map 9 D2.
Tel 789 56 67. Tel 88 59 11 88. Tel 59 00 43 40. Tel 230 99 30.
Cinema If you’re interested in original

language movies, Cinéma Paris
Berlin has always been the capital of German cinema, and it in Charlottenburg is the place
is likely to remain so. In November 1895, exactly two months to go for French films, while the
Odeon in Schöneberg specializes
after the Lumière Brothers presented their first moving
in English and American films.
pictures in France, brothers Emil and Max Skladanowsky There are also many tiny
showed a series of short films to a spellbound German public. neighbourhood cinemas and
Wintergarten Varieté-theater was the place where you could kino-bars, which have their
go to see those famous pioneering films of kangaroos fighting, own charm. Among the best
acrobats tumbling and children performing folk dances. By are the Tilsiter Lichtspiele in
Friedrichshain, and the Lichtblick
1918 there were already some 251 cinemas with 82,796 seats
Kino in Prenzlauer Berg, which
available in Berlin, and by 1925 the number of people involved plays Casablanca at midnight
in the film industry had reached 47,600. The history of UFA every Saturday.
(Universal Film AG), established in 1917, is intimately linked
to that of Berlin, for the company has its two studios here. Open-Air Cinemas
Open-air cinemas start
Big Screens and Big Films also buy tickets online at the operating as soon as the
Many cinemas can be found festival’s website. weather allows. They can be
around Breitscheidplatz, near Three other areas of Berlin are found in parks and open spaces
the Ku’damm, Tauentzienstrasse known as cinema centres: East all across town. Some of the
and Alexanderplatz. After the of the City, in Friedrichshain and nicest are the Freiluftkinos
fall of the Berlin Wall, many new in Prenzlauer Berg. For those Kreuzberg and Friedrichshain,
multiplex cinemas were built, the curious about the days of the as well as the Openair inside
biggest being the CinemaxX GDR, the Kino International on the Schloss Charlottenburg. All
Potsdamer Platz and the Karl-Marx-Allee, built in 1963, of these outdoor venues show
Cinestar Sony Center. At the is typical of cinemas built in a selection of current first-run
Cinestar, mainstream Anglo- the Communist era. It’s pretty films as well as the established
American movies are dubbed, austere and only has 551 seats. classics. Screenings start when
rather than subtitled, but you it starts to grow dark – around
can also see films in their original 9pm during summer.
language here. Next to the Studio Cinemas
Cinestar, the CinemaxX is the There are plenty of small studio
city’s largest multiplex, with a cinemas scattered across town, Non-Commercial Films
total of 19 screens. Here cinema- and it is in these that new Although most people tend to
goers can see all the latest independent films and go to the cinema nowadays to
Hollywood and German retrospectives of particular actors see the latest blockbuster movie
blockbusters. The Zoo Palast, and directors are shown. Cinemas from Hollywood, it is still possible
historic seat of the Berlinale, now like Hackesche Höfe Kino, to track down some of the
offers weekly screenings of films situated near Hackescher Markt, venues which show less popular
in their original language. offer a pleasant break from the films including documentaries
Next door to CinemaxX is the bustle of modern city life, and and other non-commercial films.
IMAX cinema – the biggest most have bars of their own. The The Zeughauskino specializes
screen in Germany. It can only café at Hackesche Höfe Kino in non-commercial films. It
show films that are shot with an offers light snacks as well as a co-ordinates its interesting
Imax camera, but the spectacle wonderful fifth-floor view over and informative repertoire
is always breathtaking. Its huge the nearby neighbourhood. with exhibitions in the Deutsches
curved screen is 27 m (89 ft) The Kino Arsenal, on Historisches Museum (the
across and covers approximately Potsdamer Platz, belongs to German Historical Museum),
1,000 sq m (10,750 sq ft). It shows the Freunde der Deutschen as well as showing its own series
a range of films including natural Kinemathek (Friends of German of documentaries.
history, travel and underwater Cinema) and is ideal for lovers
features, as well as a selection of German film, for this is where
of 3D films that require special you can see all the national Prices and Screenings
viewing glasses. classics. The venue has a Cinema tickets usually cost
Each February, Potsdamer detailed monthly programme between €8 and €11 and
Platz is taken over by the Berlin which includes four screenings students and senior citizens don’t
International Film Festival, or per day, many of which come always receive a discount. Many
Berlinale. Hundreds of films are with a small introductory cinemas declare Tuesday or
screened, and Berliners often lecture. Copies of the Wednesday as Cinema Day,
queue for hours to get hold programme are distributed when tickets are €1–€2 cheaper.
of the popular tickets. You can in bars all over town. Some cinemas also organize
so-called “Blue Mondays” precede most screenings, also get a chance to see some
when tickets are reduced to although some venues use this classic film sets – some going
as little as €4. time to show short films by back to the days of Marlene
In most cinemas there are up-and-coming directors. Dietrich – as well as samples
usually three shows per evening, of the latest technical wizardry.
the first at 6pm and the last at A wide variety of books, in
around 10pm. Some cinemas The Film Business many different languages,
accept telephone bookings, but If you’re interested in the about cinema and film can
you have to turn up to pay for business of film production, be found in Bücherbogen
your ticket at least half an hour visit Studio UFA in Babelsberg, under the arcade of the S-Bahn
before a show; otherwise, it may Potsdam. A must for all cinema railway bridge at Savignyplatz.
go to somebody else. Most fans, the Studiotour Babels Alternatively, you can try
ticket offices don’t take credit berg allows you to see a live Bücherstube Marga Schoeller
cards, so have cash in hand. film crew working on a current at 33 Knesebeckstrasse,
Twenty minutes of commercials production (see p207). You will near Kurfüstendamm.
DIRECTORY
Big Screens Odeon Non-Commercial Coming Out
and Big Films Hauptstrasse 116. Films Germany 1988/1989,
Map 13 B5. directed by Heiner Carow.
CinemaxX Tel 78 70 40 19. Zeughauskino
Potsdamer Platz Unter den Linden 2. Eins, zwei, drei
Potsdamer Strasse 5. Tilsiter Lichtspiele Tel 20 30 44 21. (One, two, three)
Map 8 D5. Richard-Sorge-Strasse USA 1961, directed by
Tel (040) 80 80 69 69. 25a. Tel 426 81 29. Famous Films Billy Wilder.
Cinestar Sony Center Open-Air About Berlin Goodbye Lenin!

Potsdamer Strasse 4. Cinemas Germany 2003, directed
Berlin Alexanderplatz by Wolfgang Becker.
Map 8 D5. Germany/France 1931,
Tel 26 06 64 00. Freiluftkino
directed by Phillip Jutzi, Der Himmel über
Friedrichshain
IMAX based on Alexander Berlin
Volkspark Friedrichshain.
Potsdamer Strasse 4. Döblin’s book. (Wings of Desire)
Map 10 F1.
Germany/France 1987,
Tel 26 06 64 00. Tel 29 36 16 29. Berlin Alexanderplatz directed by Wim Wenders.
Kino International Freiluftkino Germany 1980, directed
Kuhle Wampe
Karl-Marx-Allee 33 (corner Kreuzberg by Rainer Werner
Germany 1932, directed
of Schillingstrasse). Adalbertstrasse 73. Fassbinder.
by Slatan Dudow, script
Map 10 E3. Map 16 E1. Tel 293 61 60.
Berlin Calling by Bertolt Brecht.
Tel 24 75 60 11.
Openair Schloss Germany 2008, directed
Das Leben der
Zoo Palast Charlottenburg by Hannes Stöhr. Anderen
Hardenbergplatz 8. Spandauer Damm 10.
Berlin, Chamissoplatz (The Lives of Others)
Map 6 D5. Map 4 E2.
Germany 1980, directed Germany 2006, directed
Tel 25 40 10. Tel (01805) 44 70.
by Rudolf Thome. by Florian Henckel von
Film Festivals Donnersmarck.
Studio Cinemas Berlin, die Symphonie
einer Grossstadt Die Legende von
Cinéma Paris Berlin International
(Berlin, Symphony Paul und Paula
Kurfürstendamm 211. Film Festival
of a Great City) (The Legend of Paul
Map 11 A2, 12 D1. Every February,
and Paula)
Tel 881 31 19. Potsdamer Platz. Germany 1927, directed
Germany 1973, directed
Tel 259 200. by Walter Ruttmann.
Hackesche Höfe Kino by Heiner Carow.
∑ berlinale.de
Rosenthaler Strasse Berlin – Ecke
Menschen am Sonntag
40–41. The Film Business Schönhauser (Men on Sunday)
Map 11 C2. Germany 1957, directed Germany 1930, directed
Tel 283 46 03. Bücherbogen am by Gerhard Klein. by Robert Siodmak and
Savignyplatz
Kino Arsenal Berliner Ballade Edgar G Ulmer.
Stadtbahnbogen 593.
Potsdamer Strasse 2/ Tel 31 86 95 11. (Berlin Ballad) Lola rennt
Sony Center. American Occupied Zone (Run, Lola, Run)
Map 12 F2. Studiotour 1948, directed by Robert Germany 1998, directed
Tel 26 95 51 00.
Babelsberg Stemmle. by Tom Tykwer.
August-Bebel-Str. 26–53,
Lichtblick Kino Potsdam (entrance Cabaret Sonnenallee
Kanstanienallee 77. Grossbeerenstrasse). USA 1972, directed by Germany 1999, directed
Tel 44 05 81 79. Tel (0331) 721 27 50. Bob Fosse. by Leander Haußmann.
Classical Music and Dance become equally dynamic

centres of avant-garde dance,
Berlin has one of the world’s finest orchestras (the Berlin as has the International
Philharmonic Orchestra) and two of the most beautiful Choreographic Theater
concert halls (the Philharmonie and the Konzerthaus). The of Johann Kresnik in the
Volksbühne (see pp262–3).
Berlin Philharmonic is pre-eminent among the city’s three
symphonic orchestras, all of which perform regularly in Berlin.
There are three major opera houses to choose from and a Contemporary Music
smaller one for lovers of the avant-garde. The opera houses The Berlin organization Initiative
have interesting ballet programmes built into their repertoires, Neue Music Berlin e.V. publishes
performed largely by resident dance companies. Throughout a website with information
about current performances
the year, the city also attracts international ballet groups. of contemporary music. It
Apart from regular concerts, the city offers many festivals, always includes BKA near
two of the most popular being MaerzMusik and the Classic Mehringdamm with its weekly
Open Air Festival on Gendarmenmarkt. Smaller concerts are programme of Unerhörte Musik.
organized in the city’s many churches, halls and palaces.
Festivals
Concert Halls Opera and The Berliner Festwochen festival
The Philharmonie is one of Classical Ballet has been divided into Musik-
Europe’s grandest concert Among Berlin’s three major fest Berlin (see p52), held
halls, boasting excellent opera houses, the Staatsoper throughout September, and
acoustics. It houses the Berlin Unter den Linden (see p65), Foreign Affairs, a theatre and
Philharmonic Orchestra, which under the leadership of Daniel dance festival that takes place in
was founded in 1882 and Barenboim, is a gem and is one mid-July (see p51). Each festival
achieved great popularity of the leading opera venues promises a range of events and
under the conductor Herbert in the world. This beautiful attracts famous orchestras and
von Karajan. In 1989, the building is undergoing major soloists from around the world.
orchestra was taken over restoration works until 2017. Contemporary music festival
by Claudio Abbado, a worthy The repertoire includes the März Musik, held every March,
successor, and since 2002 it traditional German classics, sees numerous world premieres
has been directed by Sir Simon Italian opera, classical ballets of newcomers and established
Rattle, an acclaimed British and, to a lesser extent, composers alike (see p51).
conductor. Tickets for popular contemporary pieces. The Young Euro Classic
programmes quickly sell out. Komische Oper (see p70) festival is a platform for the best
Chamber orchestras perform in is known for its broad range young symphony orchestras
the smaller Kammermusiksaal of lighter opera, for which you from all over the world, who
attached to the bigger hall. can nearly always find tickets. convene in Berlin’s prestigious
With its elegant surroundings, The ballet produced here Konzerthaus every August.
Konzerthaus Berlin, formally is particularly innovative. Once a year, for Berlin Night
known as the Schauspielhaus Opera productions at the of Theatres and Operas, around
(see p67), is one of the best Deutsche Oper Berlin are 60 of the capital’s stages,
places to listen to classical often modern and intriguing. connected by shuttle buses,
music. The building was The repertoire includes music open late and offer short
restored after World War II and ranging from major Italian productions to touring visitors.
now contains a large concert operas and Mozart to Wagner Berlin Klassiktage is an
hall and a smaller room for and Saint-Saëns. annual summer festival of
chamber music. Classical The Neuköllner Oper in the classical music with evening
concerts are also held at the Neukölln district is an innovative concerts held in historic settings
Universität der Künste and and productive stage. all over the city.
the Staatsbibliothek A real treat for music lovers
(State Library). is the wonderful Classic Open
Modern Dance
Many churches in Berlin Air Festival (see p51) featuring
also open their doors for Modern dance productions opera and concerts that is
concerts throughout the are held in Hebbel am held every summer on an
year. Berliner Dom in Mitte Ufer at its three sites on open stage on Gendar-
is a spectacular venue Stresemannstrasse, Hallesches menmarkt, which is built
with an excellent concert Ufer and Tempelhofer Ufer. especially for the occasion.
programme. For a guide to In recent years, however, Another musical feast is the
all these events, look up the Tanzfabrik in Kreuzberg Bach Tage festival in Potsdam,
listings magazines Tip or and Sophiensaele and which takes place every year
Zitty (see p260). Radialsystem V in Mitte have in September (see p52).
Open-Air Concerts Music in Palaces and original instruments. A special

Classical open-air summer Notable Buildings booklet covering the museum’s
concerts are staged at During music festivals, recitals various musical events is
Waldbühne, in a beautiful are often held in Berlin’s available from all theatres,
leafy setting near the beautiful historic buildings, concert halls and music shops.
Olympiastadion. The venue and a concert in the Berliner The Konzerthaus Berlin and
seats 20,000 and once a year Dom (see p79), the Orangerie Komische Oper have regular
features the Berlin Philharmonic in Schloss Charlottenburg classical concerts, tours and
Orchestra. The atmosphere is (see pp164–5) or Schloss demonstrations for children.
relaxed and informal, with kids Friedrichsfelde (see pp182–3) Find a calendar of all classical
running around while parents can be an unforgettable and music events in Berlin at the
eat and drink during the shows. delightful experience. website www.klassik-in-berlin.
After sunset, when the crowds de (English version is available).
light candles brought for the The Kulturkaufhaus
occasion, the atmosphere Various Dussmann shop offers the
becomes magical. Staatsoper The Musikinstrumenten widest range of music in Berlin,
für alle (see p51) is a popular, Museum offers entertaining with a stock of over 50,000
free classical music concert concerts on selected Sunday titles, and staff always ready
performed by the Berlin State mornings, and as a part of the to help you. Literary readings,
Opera on a Sunday in June, Alte Musik Live scheme you lectures and other special
which takes place at the can listen to the music of cultural events are also
beautiful square of Bebelplatz. old masters played on their staged at the store.
DIRECTORY
Concert Halls Neuköllner Oper Sophiensaele Open-Air
Karl-Marx-Strasse 131– Sophienstrasse 18. Concerts
Konzerthaus Berlin Map 9 B1.
133, Neukölln. Waldbühne
(Schauspielhaus) Tel 283 52 66.
Map 16 F5. Glockenturmstrasse 1.
Gendarmenmarkt 2. ∑ sophiensaele.com
Tel 688 90 777. Tel (01806) 57 00 70.
Map 9 A4. Tanzfabrik
Staatsoper Unter den Möckernstrasse 68. Bebelplatz
Tel 203 0921 330.
Linden Map 14 E4. Unter den Linden.
∑ konzerthaus.de
Tel 786 58 61. Map 9 A3.
Unter den Linden 7.
Philharmonie & ∑ tanzfabric-berlin.de
Map 9 A3. Various
Kammermusiksaal Tel 20 35 45 55.
Herbert-von-Karajan-
Contemporary Kulturkaufhaus
(Until mid-2017: Music Dussmann
Strasse 1. Map 8 D5.
Bismarckstrasse 110. Friedrichstrasse 90.
Tel 25 48 80. Initiative Neue Musik
Map 5 A4.) Berlin e.V. Tel 202 51 111.
Staatsbibliothek Klosterstrasse 68–70. Musikinstrumenten
Potsdamer Strasse 33. Modern Dance Map 10 D3. Museum
Tel 2660. Tel 242 45 34. Tiergartenstrasse 1.
Hebbel am Ufer ∑ inm-berlin.de Map 8 D5. Tel 25 48 10.
Universität der Hau Eins
Unerhörte Musik
Künste Stresemannstrasse 29. (BKA) Tickets
Hardenbergstrasse 33. Map 8 E5. Mehringdamm 34. Hekticket
Map 6 E3. Hau Zwei Map 14 F3. Reduced and last-
Tel 31 85 23 74. Tel 20 22 00 33. minute tickets only.
Hallesches Ufer 32. Map
14 F2. Tel 259 00 427. Tel 230 99 30.
Opera and Festivals
Hau Drei Interklassik in
Classical Ballet MaerzMusik Kulturkaufhaus
Tempelhofer Ufer 10.
Berliner Festspiele GmbH Dussmann
Deutsche Oper Berlin Map 14 F2. Schaperstrasse 24. Friedrichstrasse 90.
Bismarckstrasse 35. Tel 25 90 00. Map 12 D2. Tel 201 660 93.
Map 5 A4. ∑ hebel-am-ufer.de Tel 254 892 18.
KaDeWe
Tel 34 38 43 43. Musikfest Berlin/
Radialsystem V Theaterkassen
spielzeiteuropa KaDeWe department
Komische Oper Holzmarktstrasse 33.
Berliner Festspiele GmbH store (6th floor),
Behrenstrasse 55–57. Map 10 F5. Schaperstrasse 24. Tauentzienstrasse 21.
Map 8 F4. Tel 288 788 50. Map 12 D2. Map 12 F2.
Tel 47 99 74 00. ∑ radialsystem.de Tel 254 892 44. Tel 212 122 77.
Rock, Jazz and World Music borders are crossed, not least
those of musical inhibition.
To music lovers Berlin can mean anything from techno to the As far as regular clubs are
Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra, for the city has a thriving and concerned, jazz is still very
multi-faceted music industry. Between its classical and ultra- popular in Berlin, in spite of
modern extremes the full spectrum of musical taste is catered the pull of its perhaps better-
known electronic and techno
for, from bar-room blues to rock’n’roll and international pop.
discotheques. The A Trane and
Whether it’s a major event by a world-famous band or a small- b-flat are classical jazz bars
scale evening of jazz improvization, you needn’t look far to where you can listen to small
find what you want. The biggest events take place in sports bands just about every night
halls and stadiums, but most of the action can be found in of the week.
discos, bars and the city’s various clubs (see pp270–71). There Another great venue is
Quasimodo on Kantstrasse,
are also a number of cultural centres where you can stop by
which has a relaxed and
to listen to modern music. The best way to find something for intimate atmosphere. Its
yourself is to get hold of a copy of the listings magazines Zitty concerts only start after 10pm,
or Tip, and look out for flyers and leaflets in bars. when performances at Theater
des Westens have finished; the
vibrations would otherwise
Big Concerts Kreuzberg. The future of this disturb the neighbouring
Berlin is always high up on the legendary venue is uncertain, audience. The acoustics at
list when major pop, rock or jazz due to the gentrification of the Quasimodo are also excellent
bands go on tour. While people area. See it before it disappears. and many big names in jazz
flock from all over the country to Schöneberg was notorious have performed on its stage.
attend these events, there are a in the 1980s for its punk rock Another good venue for
number of smaller events which scene, but while those days are enjoying jazz is Bilderbuch,
attract an equally devoted now over, there are still plenty on Akazienstrasse.
audience. Since the closure of exciting things on offer here Apart from the typical, classical
of the huge Deutschlandhalle, today. One of the most popular jazz clubs, jazz can also be heard
the big events take place in places in town is Tempodrom in many of the city’s smaller
Max-Schmeling-Hall and the (check listings magazines for bars, like Kunstfabrik Schlot on
Velodrom (see p273). For the really up-to-the-minute details). Kastanienallee. If it’s a mixture
big crowds, events are usually Columbia Halle, which is of soul, rap and jazz you want
held at the Olympiastadion located near Columbiadamm, is a to listen to, then head for the
(see p178) which has seating for well-known location for medium- Junction Bar in Kreuzberg. The
100,000. The Waldbühne next size events, and so is the Astra Badenscher Hof Jazzclub on
door has a capacity of 20,000 and Kulturhaus on Revalerstrasse, Badensche Strasse is another
hosts both classical orchestras which hosts a range of indie, great place for jazz. It has a varied
and rock bands. Kindl-Bühne rock, punk and pop artists. If programme of mainstream jazz,
Wuhlheide is another equally you are looking for particularly modern jazz and blues.
flexible venue. Concerts and atmospheric concerts, try the
plays are also organized at the Passionskirche, a church in
popular Arena in Treptow – a Kreuzberg. Another good World Music
very large music hall, dating from location to check out is the As a broadly cosmopolitan
the 1920s, which used to be a large Kulturbrauerei complex city with an increasingly multi-
local bus depot. The massive in Prenzlauer Berg. This former national population, Berlin
Mercedes-Benz Arena arena is brewery now houses dozens of is home to a wide variety of
located in Friedrichshain. It hosts venues, playing a mix of world, music. Lovers of world music
many of the large touring pop rock and electronic music. should visit Berlin in May, when
concerts, as well as sport events the large and lively Karneval der
and other productions. For Kulturen takes place. The main
detailed information about Jazz event is an exciting street
what’s on and where, consult Jazz lovers from all over the parade through Kreuzberg
the websites berlinonline.de world descend on Berlin for featuring marching bands
and berlin.de, or the listings the Jazzfest Berlin, and its and dance troupes playing
magazines Zitty and Tip. accompanying Total Music an extremely diverse array of
Meeting, both of which are music. The presence of music
held each year. The former is from all parts of the world is
Other Musical Events more traditional, but the latter never that far away.
There are plenty of smaller is devoted to modern The Haus der Kulturen der
venues in Berlin where concerts experimental work. “Jazz across Welt on John-Foster-Dulles-
are held. Among them are Lido the Border” takes place in July; it Allee is an institution set up by
and the famous SO36 in is a festival at which all kinds of the Berlin Upper Chamber to
support this cosmopolitanism, These include regular concerts Tickets

and its main aim is to make and music festivals. Between The price of tickets for
non-European cultures more them, the Haus der Kulturen der major pop concerts can be
accessible to Germany. As music Welt and the Werkstatt are the astronomical, particularly if you
is one of the best ways of most reliable providers of world want to secure a good seat.
bridging cross-cultural music in town, but you can also At the other extreme, you
differences, the Haus der find a number of bars and clubs should be able to get into
Kulturen der Welt organizes all that specialize in the music of smaller clubs for €5–€12, but
kinds of concerts at its own one particular nation. Details again, if a famous person or
Café Global – one of the best of these can be found in the band is playing you will have to
Saturday-evening venues for listings magazines Zitty and Tip, pay a good deal more. Often
listening to and dancing to and on flyers all over town. you will find the ticket price
music from all over the world. Latin American discos are includes a drink at the bar.
Details of the bands on offer becoming ever more popular Tickets for major events are
can be found in a booklet throughout Berlin – Havanna in likely to sell out quickly and
which should be available in Schöneberg is one of the city’s should be booked well in
bookshops and restaurants most popular and largest. advance; there are numerous
around town. Irish music is also well ticket offices in the busier parts
A similar organization is the represented in the city, and all of town (see p261).
Werkstatt der Kulturen on you have to do is visit a few If you just want to spend
Wissmannstrasse, which has pubs. Live music is played in the night at a club, you should
been staging all kinds of cultural Wild at Heart on almost every have no trouble buying a ticket
events for some years now. night of the week. at the door.
DIRECTORY
Big Concerts Lido Aufsturz Yorckschlösschen
Cuvrystrasse 7. Oranienburger Strasse 67. Yorckstrasse 15.
Arena Map 8 E5. Map 9 A1. Map 14 E4.
Eichenstrasse 4. Tel 695 66 840. Tel 280 474 07. Tel 215 80 70.
Tel 533 20 30. Meistersaal b-flat
Köthener Strasse 38. World Music
Rosenthaler Strasse 13.
Kindl-Bühne Map 8 E5.
Map 9 B1.
Wuhlheide Tel 325 999 715. Haus der Kulturen
Tel 283 31 23.
Strasse zum FEZ 4 (An der Passionskirche der Welt & Café
Marheineckeplatz 1–2. Badenscher Hof
Wuhlheide). Tel 530 79 53. Global
Map 15 A5. Jazzclub
John-Foster-Dulles-
Mercedes-Benz Arena Tel 69 40 12 41. Badensche Strasse 29.
Map 12 D5. Allee 10.
Mercedes Platz 1. SO36
Oranienstrasse 190. Tel 861 00 80. Map 7 C3.
Tel 20 60 70 88 99.
Map 16 E2. Tel 39 78 70.
Bilderbuch
Waldbühne Tel 61 40 13 06.
Akazienstrasse 28. Havanna
Glockenturmstrasse 1. Tempodrom Map 13 A5.
Hauptstrasse 30.
Tel (01806) 57 00 70. Am Anhalter Bahnhof, Tel 78 70 60 57.
Möckernstrasse 10. Map 13 A5.
Map 14 E1. Jazzfest Berlin Tel 784 85 65.
Other Musical Schaperstrasse 24.
Tel 0185 55 41 11.
Events Map 12 D2. Kulturbrauerei
Tipi am Kanzleramt
Tel 25 48 90. Schönhauser Allee 36.
Astra Kulturhaus Grosse Querallee,
Tiergarten. Junction Bar Tel 44 35 26 14.
Revalerstrasse 99.
Map 7 C3. Gneisenaustrasse 18. Werkstatt der
Tel 20 05 67 67. Tel 39 06 65 50. Tel 694 66 02.
Kulturen
Columbia Halle and UFA Fabrik Kunstfabrik Schlot Wissmannstrasse 32.
Victoriastrasse 10–18.
Columbia Club Edisonhöfe, Map 16 E5.
Tel 75 50 30.
Columbiadamm 13–21. Chausseestrasse 18.
Tel 60 97 700.
Tel 69 81 28 14. Jazz Map 3 A4.
Tel 448 21 60. Wild at Heart
Kulturbrauerei A Trane
Quasimodo Wiener Strasse 20
Pestalozzistrasse 105.
Schönhauser Allee 36. Map 5 C5. Kantstrasse 12a. (Kreuzberg).
Tel 44 35 26 14. Tel 313 25 50. Tel 31 80 45 60. Tel 61 07 47 01.
Clubs rooftop-terrace club with a

stunning view over downtown
Berlin is considered the clubbing capital of Europe. Countless east Berlin. Resident and visiting
clubs with an atmosphere from trashy to classy attract visitors DJs spin mostly hip-hop, electro,
from all over the world. The years after the fall of the Wall deep-house and funk. The
most grown-up feature here
provided a limitless supply of new locations, from old bank
is the prices.
vaults to abandoned power stations, though some of these For the quintessential Berlin
have closed to make way for more profit-oriented uses. Still, experience, try retro-style
the city parties on and the endurance of Berlin’s late-night Kaffee Burger, where the
scene is stunning. Parties rarely get going before midnight, legendary “Russendisko” was
and after-work and after-hours parties serve as a connection to born. Parties, often featuring
Russian bands and DJs, are wild;
the next night out. Few clubs specialize in a particular kind of the interior is a mix of 1950s
music but rather reserve certain days of the week for different Germany and Soviet realism.
styles; find out what you are in for online, or through a number ADS, near Ostbanhof, has a
of free magazines and flyers distributed widely in bars. programme spanning from
techno raves to rock concerts
to digital culture festivals, where
Techno features live acts, DJs and theme experts in digital art, music and
Although the legendary Love nights. One of the dancefloors animation present their work to
Parade that used to lure over a is adorned with a fire breathing the public – culminating in a
million devotees into town has dragon and instead of air condi- digital music party. K17 is a
moved on, Berlin still considers tioning, an outdoor pool provides rather dark “goth”, punk and
itself to be the techno capital welcome relief in the summer. electro club playing different
and looks on its clubs, with their music on each of its four floors.
striking locations, as cultural Bohannon is an unpreten-
assets. Berghain is one of the Discos tious but nicely styled soul and
world’s biggest and most If it’s a good old-fashioned disco oldies club with two bars in
renowned techno clubs. you’re looking for, with happy Mitte. It is frequented by an
Combined with its upstairs tunes and a little less of the open-minded thirty-something
Panorama Bar, the former power techno, then Sophienclub is the crowd. Felix Club Restaurant at
station is a unique Saturday- place to go. It was famous even the backside of Adlon Hotel
night cathedral of techno and before the fall of the Wall and Kempinski may be as posh as
house but is not always easy attracts a mixed crowd that is the location suggests – but the
to get in to due to its selective into classic and independent symbiosis of Italian cuisine and
door policy. Tresor, Berlin’s first rock, soul, R&B, dance and pop. relaxed clubbing works for
techno club, moved from its old FritzClub im Postbahnhof, a Berlin’s fashionable and wealthy.
bank vaults to a post-industrial multi-floor party and disco venue The hip DJs and stylish bar of
location in Mitte. The somewhat in two former mail cargo halls Kreuzberg’s Prince Charles have
eerie place can absorb several that accommodates up to 1,200 brought new life to what was
thousand people and is open guests, is favoured by an under- once a swimming pool used by
Wednesdays to Saturdays. 25 student crowd that couldn’t employees of a piano factory.
Watergate, in Kreuzberg, is care less about dress codes. For a more underground
located right beside the beaut- Also in Friedrichshain, Matrix experience, try the Cassiopeia
iful Oberbaumbrücke bridge is a booming club and disco, in trendy Friedrichshain (good
on the banks of the Spree its vaulted brick catacombs for electro, house, funk, ska,
and is favoured by techno, D&B, bustling with a young crowd. old- school rap and reggae) that,
minimal and house DJs from Narva Lounge next door is a apart from dance floors, features
all over the world. Both sound little more refined, with two an outdoor rock-climbing tower.
system and visual effects are dance floors, a cocktail bar and SO36 in Kreuzberg is a classic
spectacular at this temple of white leather booths to be seen and still worth a visit for a
hedonism that also sports a in. Ritzy Adagio at Potsdamer Karaoke or ballroom-dancing
floating outside terrace. Platz is styled like a medieval night, a punk or rock concert,
Housed in what was once a castle and attracts a good mix or one of the regular gay parties
dog-biscuit factory, Sysiphos of both young and a little more popular with people of Turkish
is an electro club where you mature party-goers. and Arab descent.
can party the weekend away. There are a couple of
Clubbers can take advantage surviving old dance halls to go
of an open-air dance floor Trendy and and waltz. Among the oldest is
during summer. Alternative Clubs Clärchens Ballhaus in Mitte,
On Thursdays, popular Sage Twelfth-floor House of shared by patrons of all ages
Club in Mitte has mostly rock, Weekend at Alexanderplatz is dancing to an eclectic mix of
less techno and house; it a beautifully designed bar-cum- German classics and chart hits.
E n t E r ta i n m E n t i n B E r l i n  271
Lounges Friedrichstrasse SBahn tracks. Fuggerstrasse. Located in the

For those not sure whether they It also offers fine dining, in lively Kottbusser Tor area of
feel like dancing the night away, addition to great music to Kreuzberg, Möbel Olfe attracts
Berlin’s lounges are good for a dance. A smartcasual dress an alternative gay crowd,
relaxed evening. In contrast to code is recommended. dancing to an upbeat mix of
the clubs, they tend to be open pop, disco and house music.
every day. PURO Sky Lounge For lesbians, the best club is
near the KaDeWe on Tauentzien Gay and Lesbian Clubs Café Fatal at SO36, named after
is a very stylish rooftop club Berlin has a very tolerant the historic postcode of that
with great sunset views. Elegant attitude to people with different area. It admits gay men to a
Solar near Potsdamer Platz offers sexual orientations. A big day Sunday dance.
great views from the 17th floor. for the whole city is the gigantic
40seconds serves as a restaurant parade on Christopher Street
and bar before the DJs get going Day, which takes place annually Special Interest
after 11pm. This exclusive pent at the end of June. Berlin Pride You want to check the dress/
house venue also has incredible Festival is celebrated for three undress code before heading
360 degree views. Spindler weeks preceding the CSD. out to legendary Kit-Kat Club.
und Klatt in Kreuzberg is a Berlin’s gay community meets at On most nights, guests are
former grain warehouse now countless bars, clubs and discos, requested to shed most of
sporting lounge beds to sprawl many of them found around their clothes on entering this
on, onestop dining and club Nollendorfplatz in Schöneberg, adult playground. The techno
bing. In summer, the riverside or in gayfriendly clubs like and trance club has plenty of
terrace is a huge bonus. One of Berghain/Panorama Bar. room to dance, but also to lie
the city’s coolest bars, Tausend The city’s most popular down and relax – which is
is hidden behind a practically gay discos are SchwuZ, in practised by clubbers of all
invisible steel door under the Neukölln, and Connection on sexual persuasions.
DIRECTORY
Techno Matrix House of Weekend Spindler und Klatt
Warschauer Platz 18 Alexanderstrasse 7. Köpenicker Strasse 16
Berghain/ Panorama (U/S Warschauer Strasse). Map 10 D2. (Kreuzberg).
Bar Tel 293 69 990. Tel 246 31 676. Tel 319 881 860.
Am Wriezener Bahnhof 20
(Friedrichshain). Narva Lounge K17 Tausend
Tel 293 602 10. Warschauer Platz 18. Pettenkoferstrasse 17. Schiffbauerdamm 11.
Tel 293 69 990. Tel 42 08 93 00. Map 8 F2.
Sage Club
Tel 275 82 070.
Köpenicker Strasse 76–78. Sophienclub Kaffee Burger
Map 10 D5. Sophienstrasse 6. Torstrasse 60.
Tel 278 98 30.
Gay and Lesbian
Map 9 B1. Map 9 C1. Clubs
Sysiphos Tel 280 464 95.
Hauptstrasse 15 Trendy and Berghain/Panorama
Alternative Clubs Prince Charles
(Rummelsburg). Prinzenstrasse 85F
Bar
Tel 983 66 839. (see Techno)
ADS (Kreuzberg).
Tresor An der Schillingbrücke Map 15 C1. Connection
Köpenicker Strasse 70. 33–34. Map 10 F5. Fuggerstrasse 33.
SO36
Map 10 E5. Tel 212 38 190. Map 12 F2.
Oranienstrasse 190.
Tel 695 37 731.
Bohannon Map 16 E2. Möbel Olfe
Watergate Dircksenstrasse 40. Tel 614 013 06. Reichenberger Strasse
Falckensteinstrasse 49 Map 9 C2. 177 (Kreuzberg).
(Kreuzberg). Tel 695 05 287. Lounges Map 16 D2.
Tel 612 803 95. Tel 030 232 746 90.
Cassiopeia 40seconds
Discos Revaler Strasse 99. Potsdamer Strasse 58. SO36
Tel 473 85 949. Map 13 C2. (see Trendy and Alternative)
Adagio Tel 890 642 41.
MarleneDietrichPlatz 1. Clärchens Ballhaus SchwuZ
Map 8 D5. Auguststrasse 24. PURO Sky Lounge Rollbergstrasse 26.
Tel 258 98 90. Map 9 A1. Tauentzienstrasse 9–12. Tel 57 70 22 70.
Tel 282 92 95. Map 12 E1. Tel 263 678 75.
FritzClub im Special Interest
Postbahnhof Felix Club Restaurant Solar
Strasse der Pariser Behrenstrasse 72. Stresemannstrasse 76. Kit-Kat Club
Kommune 8. Map 4 F3, 8 E4. Map 14 E1. Köpenicker Strasse 76.
Tel 698 12 80. Tel 301 117 152. Tel 0163 765 27 00. Map 10 D5.
Sport and Recreation Alternatively, you can simply

sunbathe on the steps and
Berlin is a sports-loving town, and every year the major sports admire the view.
events attract a growing number of fans and competitors. The three most beautiful
The Berlin Marathon, run in September, is now the third swimming pools are situated
in Mitte, Neukölln and Wilmers-
largest in the world, its 42-km (26-mile) distance tackled by
dorf. Stadtbad Mitte, on
runners and roller-skaters – able-bodied and disabled alike. Gartenstrasse, is a painstakingly
The Bundesliga (German football league) cup final takes restored building which dates
place in May in the Olympia Stadion. Crowds of each team’s from the 1930s. It has a 50-m
supporters converge on the city a few days before the game, (164-ft) pool designed for
and after the match they all join a huge party for the winners sporting events as well as
recreational swimming.
along the Ku’damm. The world tennis elite battle it out during Stadtbad Charlottenburg, on
the German Open championship every April. the other hand, offers a smaller
pool which is more appropriate
Cycling It is open from 9am to 10pm on for relaxation than serious
The flat terrain, numerous parks weekdays in summer, and from swimming; it is also beautifully
and countless special routes 10am on weekends. The hours decorated with Secessionist
for cyclists – which reach a total are slightly shorter in spring, paintings. But if it’s a swim in
of 850 km (530 miles) – make autumn and winter, and the luxurious surroundings you
Berlin a cycle-friendly city. range closes when it snows. want, then take a dive at the
Bikes can be taken along on A bucket of 30 balls costs €5. Stadtbad Neukölln; the extra-
the S- or U-Bahn trains, which Golf Berlin-Mitte offers an ordinary decorative mosaics,
provide easy access to the three indoor practice net. frescoes and marble-and-bronze
most popular routes – along There are two golf courses ornamentation is enough to
the Havel river, around the within Berlin: the Golf und make you forget why you
Grunewald forest and around Landclub Berlin-Wannsee, came here in the first place.
the Müggelsee, but make sure which has a large 18-hole course Two equally stunning
to buy a special bike ticket. and a smaller one with 9 holes, experiences are guaranteed
There are many places all over and Berliner Golfclub-Gatow, at the Badeschiff Arena on
Berlin where you can rent a bike which only has an 18-hole the river Spree in Treptow. In
for €8–€15 per day (see p293), course, plus a 6-hole practice summer, the arena is a floating,
provided you leave a deposit course. There are more than 20 open-air swimming pool on
in cash. The best hotels and golf clubs around Berlin, most of the riverbank. In winter, it is
hostels in town also hire out which have excellent restaurants transformed into a space-like,
their own bikes for guests. and are situated close to hotels. enclosed swimming hall. The
The route from the historic Tropical Islands water and fun
centre of Mitte to the Ku’damm park, southeast of Berlin, is a
via Tiergarten can be an Swimming Pools huge, artificial paradise set in
unforgettable experience. Public swimming facilities in a vast construction hall once
In January those lovers Berlin are extremely clean and built for zeppelins.
of two wheels meet during you can always swim there safely.
Berliner Sechs-Tage-Rennen in Some of the best places to try
the Velodrom on Paul-Heyse- are on the Havel river and the Badminton, Squash
Strasse. You might have some city’s lakes. Swimming on natural and Tennis
problems buying a ticket as the beaches is free, but there are no You won’t have to travel far in
event is very popular, so give changing rooms or toilet facilities. Berlin to find facilities to play
them a call beforehand. For Berlin also has a number badminton, squash or tennis,
information concerning routes, of artificial beaches which are as numerous courts are
events, tours or anything else all manned by lifeguards. The scattered all over town, from
you may need to know about best known is the Strandbad local parks to sophisticated
cycling in Berlin, contact the Wannsee, which was built in sports centres. It is customary
ADFC (Allgemeiner Deutscher the 1920s and continues to to bring your own sports shoes,
Fahrrad-Club). be very popular today. Other but rackets are almost always
excellent spots can be found available to rent.
around Müggelsee. The entrance fee in most
Golf One of the most beautiful cases includes the use of a
Just about every sporting swimming pool complexes is sauna, and at Sportoase there
discipline is catered for in Berlin, Olympiastadion (see p184), are 15 badminton courts in
and golfing is no exception. The which was a venue for the addition to 8 squash courts.
Golfer’s Friend Driving Range 1936 Berlin Olympic Games. Other court facilities can
golf club is located in the west A special pool for diving has be found online or in the
of the city, on Cordesstrasse 3. a 10-m (33-ft) tower with a lift. telephone directory.
Other Sports
visit to Berlin is a long one, Berlin also has a good hockey
Every weekend in August, John- it may be worth joining. Ars team, Eisbären Berlin, whose
Foster-Dulles-Allee in Tiergarten Vitalis is the best independent matches always sell out quickly.
is closed to traffic to become a fitness club and spa for men
genuine paradise for rollerblade and women in Germany. Fitness
and in-line skaters. Plenty of First is one of the best options Horse Racing
shops in the area offer skates for women; it has five studios Lovers of horse racing have two
and safety equipment at reason- across the city and they are all tracks to choose from in Berlin.
able rates. For ice-skating fun, large and well equipped. The Trabrennbahn in Mariendorf is
the Horst-Dohm-Eisstadion main branch is directly beneath open all year and the races held
provides a 400-m- (1,312-ft-) rink. the TV tower in Alexanderplatz. here are strictly commercial. The
In snowy winters, Berliners like A one-day ticket costs €19. Galopprennbahn Hoppegarten
to go sledding down the Teufels- track, on the other hand, has a
berg rubble hill in Grunewald. more approachable feel.
If you fancy a boat trip, rowing Spectator Sports
boats are available for hire at As a rule, Berlin’s sports teams
many places along the banks of tend to be among the country’s Marathon
the lakes. In the Tiergarten you best, and rank highly in each Running a full marathon isn’t
can rent them near Café am of their respective leagues. everyone’s cup of tea, but when
Neuen See and around Football matches of Hertha you see the enormous crowds
Schlachtensee; the price BSC take place in the Olympia gathered to run the Berlin-
is around €7–€10 per hour. Stadion and tickets are usually Marathon in September, you
available at approximately may well wish you were one
€10–€36. of the pack.
Fitness Alba Berlin is among the top The route is one of the world’s
There are always new gyms basketball teams in Germany, fastest, attracting top sponsors
opening and others closing and its matches in the Mercedes- and athletes alike; the world
down in Berlin, so your best Benz Arena can be attended by record has been broken here
bet is to check the telephone up to 8,500 fans. For international several times. Thousands gather
directory for the most up-to- events it’s best to pre-book to cheer the runners, rollers and
date listings. At many gyms you tickets well in advance, and the disabled athletes – the latter
can buy a daily card, rather than price can vary between €10 and having their own group, which
becoming a member. But if your €64, depending on the match. starts before the others.
DIRECTORY
Cycling Swimming Pools Badminton, Spectator Sports
Squash and Tennis
ADFC Badeschiff Arena Mercedes-
Brunnenstrasse 28. Eichenstrasse 4. Sport Factory Benz Arena
Tel 448 47 24. Tel 533 20 30. Warener Strasse 5. Mercedes Platz 1.
Tel 563 85 85.
Velodrom Tel 20 60 70 88 99.
Stadtbad
Paul-Heyse-Strasse 26. Sportoase
Charlottenburg Stromstrasse 11–17. Horse Racing
Tel 44 30 45.
Krumme Strasse 9. Map 4 F1, 4 F2.
Golf Tel 34 38 38 60. Tel 390 66 20. Galopprennbahn
Hoppegarten
Berliner Golfclub- Stadtbad Mitte Fitness Goetheallee 1.
Gatow Gartenstrasse 5.
Ars Vitalis Tel (03342) 389 30.
Sparnecker Weg 100. Map 7 A1.
Tel 365 00 06. Tel 308 80 90. Hauptstrasse 19. Trabrennbahn
Map 13 A5. Mariendorf
Golf Berlin-Mitte Stadtbad Neukölln Tel 311 65 94 70.
Markgrafenstrasse 58. Mariendorfer Damm 222,
Ganghoferstrasse 3.
Tel 280 470 70. Fitness First Tempelhof.
Tel 68 24 98 12. Panoramastrasse 1a. Tel 740 12 12.
Golf und Landclub Map 9 C2.
Strandbad Wannsee Open race times vary.
Berlin-Wannsee Tel 279 0770.
Wannseebadweg 25.
Golfweg 22.
Tel 803 5450. Other Sports Marathon
Tel 806 70 60.
Golfer’s Friend Tropical Islands Horst-Dohm- Berlin-Marathon
Driving Range Tropical Islands Allee 1, Eisstadion Hanns-Braun-Strasse/
Cordesstrasse 3. 15910 Krausnick. Fritz-Wildung-Strasse 9. Adlerplatz.
Tel 326 03 250. Tel (035477) 605 050. Tel 824 10 12. Tel 30 12 88 10.
CHILDREN’S BERLIN
When it comes to entertainment, people of Technology), the Museumsdorf Düppel or
all ages are catered for in Berlin, and children the Kinder- und Jugendmuseum, all of which
are no exception. There are numerous shops, encourage children to take part in the displays.
theatres and cinemas to keep them occupied, Tickets for children under 14 are almost
not to mention circuses and zoological always reduced, and very young children are
gardens. Additionally, there is the Deutsches often admitted for free. Restaurants often
Technikmuseum (German Museum of have special areas for toddlers.
in a game with Mexican papier-

mâché dolls, on others you
can participate in a Japanese
ceremonial bath. A visit to the
Museumsdorf Düppel is an
excellent way to show a child
the workings of a medieval
village. The Museum für Natur-
kunde (see p113) is another fun
place for children, particularly
the dinosaur sections and the
dioramas of animals in their
natural habitats. The Kinder
The Potsdam train, always a favourite among children museum Labyrinth is another
firm favourite.
Information quite so convenient but it is Another great place to visit is
Berlin is very welcoming to its much bigger and can still be the PuppentheaterMuseum,
younger visitors. Families with reached by U-Bahn. Covering which is always lively, and offers
children are entitled to public a wide area around Schloss a chance for children to take
transport discounts, and Friedrichsfelde, the Tierpark part in minor performances.
children can travel free or at is the largest park in Europe.
a reduced rate, depending Apart from these zoological
on their age. For detailed gardens, a lot of the parks in Theatres
information on the discounts Berlin contain mini-zoos where Established in 1969, Grips
and opportunities for children, many different kinds of animals Theater is probably the most
contact Berlin Tourismus & can be seen. In a garden behind interesting theatre for children
Kongress GmbH. This organiz- the Märkisches Museum, for and teenagers. Its independent
ation offers several discount example, you can see a bear. and ambitious programme
cards which entitle the holder As well as the more exotic attracts many spectators and
to public transport use and animals, however, it is also one of its performances, Linie 1,
entry to various museums possible to see the familiar was made into a film. Other
and attractions. Some versions favourites. Small children will venues worth trying are the
of these cards are valid for love the Kinderbauernhof Theater an der Parkaue,
one adult and up to three Auf dem Görlitzer, which Theater o.N., Zaubertheater
children. Ask about the Berlin has a collection of domestic
WelcomeCard and the animals. Here geese, pigs and
CityTourCard (see p279). rabbits run happily around
the Görlitzer Park.
Zoological Gardens
One of Berlin’s zoological Museums
gardens can be visited the Generally speaking, Berlin’s
moment you arrive in town, as museums are well set up for
it is located opposite the Zoo children. Perhaps the most
railway station. The Zoo Berlin entertaining is the Deutsches
offers extensive parkland and Technikmuseum (see p148),
many animal enclosures, as well where children can take part
as an excellent aquarium with in all kinds of experiments.
the biggest collection of aquatic The Ethnologisches Museum
fauna in the world. (see p185) also prepares special
The second zoo, Tierpark exhibitions for children. On Children admiring Neptune’s Fountain
Berlin in Friedrichsfelde, isn’t some days you can take part by the Town Hall
perhaps for afternoon tea. You

can buy cake and juice in the
tower’s rotating café. A lift in
the Funkturm (radio tower) in
the Messegelände (see p179)
offers an excellent view of
the city, from a slightly
lower height.
Cabuwazi is a children’s
circus-training group that offers
A visit to the medieval village at Museumsdorf Düppel workshops and performances.
It operates five permanent big-
Igor Jedlin and the Puppen Eisstadion is outstanding top tents, the main one being
theater Berlin. Another option with its 400-m (1,312-ft) run at Görlitzer Park in Kreuzberg.
is to go to one of the city’s and large ice-hockey rink. The Story of Berlin is a fun
many circuses, all of which FEZ Berlin offers a special way for both parents and
prepare their programmes daily programme for kids. children to experience the
with children in mind. history of Berlin in a thrilling
multimedia exhibit. And the
Other Entertainment Berliner Gruselkabinett
Sports Berlin is full of wonderfully (Berlin Room of Fear) is
Ice-skating in winter and roller- equipped children’s enough to frighten anybody.
skating in summer are popular playgrounds. Each For an out-of-the-ordinary
in Berlin, and football and neighbourhood has at least experience, you can’t go
swimming are popular year- one, usually complete with wrong at either the Zeiss
round. You can swim in rivers, climbing frames, ping-pong Großplanetarium or the
lakes and swimming pools (the tables and mini soccer courts. Planetarium am Insulaner,
Berliner Bäderbetriebe hotline An ascent of the Fernseh- where fascinating shows
offers useful information). Each turm (Television Tower) at allow you to explore the
district has its own ice-skating Alexanderplatz (see p95) is known universe and to have
rink, but the HorstDohm a great way to treat a child, a good look at the stars.
DIRECTORY
Information Museums Puppentheater Berlin Other
Gierkeplatz 2. Entertainment
Berlin mit Kindermuseum Tel 342 19 50.
Kindern Labyrinth Berliner
∑ berlinwith
Theater
Osloer Strasse 12. Gruselkabinett
an der Parkaue
children.com Tel 800 93 11 50. Schöneberger Strasse
Parkaue 29.
Berlin Tourismus & Open 1–6pm Fri & Sat, Tel 55 77 520. 23a.
Kongress GmbH 11am–6pm Sun & hols. Map 14 E1.
Theater o.N.
Am Karlsbad 11. Tel 26 55 55 46.
Museumsdorf Düppel Kollwitzstrasse 53.
Tel 25 00 23 33. Tel 440 92 14. Cabuwazi Circus
Clauertstrasse 11.
∑ visitberlin.de
Tel 802 66 71. Zaubertheater Wiener Strasse 59H.
Tel 54 46 90 94.
Zoological Open Apr–Oct: 3–7pm Igor Jedlin
∑ cabuwazi.de
Gardens Thu, 10am–5pm Sun & Roscherstrasse 7.
holidays. Tel 323 37 77.
Planetarium
Kinderbauernhof
Puppentheater- Sports am Insulaner
Auf dem Görlitzer
Museum Berlin Munsterdamm 90.
Wiener Strasse 59b.
Berliner Tel 790 09 30.
Tel 611 74 24. Karl-Marx-Strasse 135.
Bäderbetriebe
Tel 687 81 32. Tel 22 19 00 11. The Story of Berlin
Tierpark Berlin
Am Tierpark 125, Open 9am–3pm Mon–Fri, Kurfürstendamm 207–208.
FEZ Berlin
Lichtenberg. 11am–4pm Sun. Map 11 A2.
Strasse zum FEZ 2.
Tel 51 53 10. Tel 88 72 01 00.
Tel 53 07 10.
Theatres
Zoo Berlin Horst-Dohm- Zeiss-
Hardenbergplatz 8, Grips Theater Eisstadion Großplanetarium
Charlottenburg. Altonaer Strasse 22. Fritz-Wildung-Strasse 9. Prenzlauer Allee 80.
Tel 25 40 10. Tel 397 47 40. Tel 824 10 12. Tel 42 18 450.
survival
guide
Practical Information 278–287

Getting to Berlin 288–291
Getting Around Berlin 292–299
Street Finder 300–323
278  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Berlin is a tourist-friendly city, so you yourself a daily or weekly travel card or a
shouldn’t have too much difficulty getting BerlinWelcomeCard, which also gives you
around. Many Germans speak English and discounted access to many museums. There
Berliners are usually welcoming to newcomers. are plenty of information centres in the
Cash machines, telephones and parking busiest areas of town, and a number of
meters all have clear instructions, and public different listings magazines and brochures
transport is of a high standard (see pp292–3). are available. If you have Internet access,
For reduced fares on public transport, buy VisitBerlin.de is a good information source.
Visa and Customs Embassies and Travel Safety Advice

A valid passport is necessary Consulates Visitors can get up-to-date
for all visitors to Germany. Visas Most large countries have travel safety information from
are not required for citizens of embassies in Berlin. They are the Foreign and Common
EU countries. A list, available spread across different parts wealth Office in the UK, the
from all German embassies, of the city, a result of the State Department in the US
specifies other countries whose period when Germany was and the Department of Foreign
nationals do not need a visa for divided. Some of the newer Affairs and Trade in Australia.
visits of less than 90 days. Non- embassies are wonderful
EU citizens wishing to stay in examples of modern architec-
Germany longer than three ture, such as the Nordic Opening Hours
months will need a visa, countries’ joint mission in Offices in Berlin usually open
obtained in advance, available Tiergarten, while some older from 9am to 6pm, with an hour’s
from German consulates. embassies retain the design lunch break. Smaller shops open
All visitors should check ethos of the divided period, from 9:30 or 10am to 8pm, and
requirements before travelling. such as the Czech Republic on Saturdays most shops close
On arrival in Germany, you Embassy on Wilhelmstrasse. at 4 or 5pm. Shops are closed
will not be charged duty on on Sundays due to Germany’s
personal articles. As in other religious traditions. However,
Tourist Information
European countries, no drugs those in the main train stations
or weapons may be brought There are many excellent tourist
across the border. It is also information centres in Berlin.
forbidden to import any meat The two biggest are at the
products from non-EU countries. Neues Kranzler Eck and the
The amount of cigarettes and Brandenburg Gate, but others
alcohol allowed in or out of the can be found at Hauptbahnhof
country is restricted. Non-EU and in the Alexanderplatz TV
residents can bring up to 200 Tower near Alexanderplatz. The
cigarettes (or 50 cigars, or 250g Potsdam Tourismus Service
of tobacco), one litre of spirits office is in central Potsdam, The Berlin CityTourCard, for discounted
(or four litres of wine), and up on Brandenburger Strasse. entry to many of the city’s major sights
to €430 worth of personal For up-to-the-minute news,
goods (including perfumes and turn to the Internet; VisitBerlin. remain open on Sundays; you can
electronic items). You may be de, which is managed by find supermarts at Hauptbahnhof,
asked to pay extra tax on items Berlin Tourismus & Kongress Friedrichstrasse and Ostbahnhof.
deemed to be worth more than GmbH, is a very reliable source Trading rules are relaxed in the
your personal allowance. of information for tourists. month before Christmas, when
most shops are open every day
and for longer hours. For typical
bank opening hours, see p284.
Museums and
Historic Buildings
There are over 150 museums and
galleries in Berlin, but exhibitions
change and collections move
continually. This guide covers the
most important places, but plenty
of information is also available
Tourist information centre in Berlin on lesser-known museums.
Hotel Spreebogen on the Spree river
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  279
Social Customs
and Etiquette
Older Germans are quite formal
upon first meeting, and may
introduce themselves with their
surname and a stiff handshake.
Younger Germans tend to be
more casual.
As in most of Europe, smoking
is technically illegal inside public
buildings, cafés, restaurants,
Sightseeing boat tour along the Spree bars and nightclubs. However,
there are many establishments
A good information line is the Guided Tours in Berlin which circumvent
Info-Telefon der Staatlichen There are many bus tours these laws by naming them
Museen zu Berlin and its available in Berlin, all of which selves a Raucherkneipe or
associated website, and there will, in 3 or 4 hours, introduce smoking pub. It is quite common
are also information centres you to the city’s chief historic for people to smoke in public
devoted to the the Sanssouci buildings. A single ticket usually locations, and although this is
complex in Potsdam and the allows you to get off at any increasingly discouraged it is
Pergamonmuseum. Contact the stage and rejoin the tour at rarely punished.
Stiftung Preussiche Schlösser different stops. However, if you
und Gärten Berlin-Brandenburg, want to save some money, the
which is the authority in charge doubledecker public transport Language
of most major gardens and bus No. 100 follows a similar German is the official language,
castles in the region. route (see p295). but many places have signs in
Museums and historic If you would rather go on English. Most staff and locals
buildings are usually open 10am foot, walking tours are also speak some English, but Berlin
to 5pm (sometimes to 6pm), possible – these provide a is a good place to try German
Tuesday to Sunday. Some more leisurely tour of the city, (see pp350–52), as the locals are
museums, however, close on stopping at all the major used to hearing their language
another day instead of Monday, landmarks and museums. spoken in many accents.
and many museums are open A variety of cycling tours, or
late on Thursdays, and often allow tours by Segway (twowheeled
free entry during these hours. electronic vehicles), provide
For reduced entrance prices, fun ways to see the sights.
you may want to get hold of the There are many different
Museen Pass Berlin, which allows companies offering tours;
three days’ unlimited access to some ask you to pay in advance,
the major museums. This pass is whereas others offer “free” tours,
sold at official tourist inform but may request a tip at the
ation centres. It can be used at end (the tour guides often
all the national museums, includ earn very little for their work).
ing the whole Museum Island If you are in Potsdam (see
complex, the Kulturforum and pp192–207) you can ride a
several additional institutions train around town, which starts
in Charlottenburg. outside the Kutscherhaus Inn
Other options for getting more in Sanssouci. A public toilet near one of the churches
value for your money are the in Berlin
Berlin Welcome Card (see
www.VisitBerlin.de) and the Public Conveniences
CityTourCard, which both offer There are many public toilet
you public transport for three facilities located in squares and
days, and discount entry to a long near tourist sites in Berlin. You can
list of attractions. The conditions also use the facilities in museums,
and attractions offered by both stores and cafés. In some places
vary, so it’s best to check which the convenience comes with
is most suitable for you. a charge, usually 50 cents.
Check event listings for the Men’s toilets are marked by the
Lange Nacht der Museen, held word Herren or a triangle with
in May, when many museums the vertex pointing downwards;
stay open until midnight, with ladies’, by the word Damen or
special shuttle buses put on to Guided bus tour offering an overview Frauen, or a triangle with its
transport nocturnal visitors. of Berlin and its environs vertex pointing upwards.
Travellers with Time

Disabilities Germany is in the Central-
Not all of Berlin’s streets and European time zone, which
shops have been altered to means that Berlin is 1 hour
cater for the disabled, but the ahead of Greenwich Mean Time;
majority of theatres, galleries 6 hours ahead of US Eastern
and other sights do have the Standard Time, and 11 hours
required facilities, such as An ISIC card (International behind Australian Eastern
wheelchair access. Detailed Student Identity card) Standard Time. From late
information about accessibility March to late October, clocks
can be obtained from Mobidat are set forward 1 hour.
Infoservice. Two other Travelling on a Budget
organizations to consult are the By European standards, Berlin
Berliner Behindertenverband is one of the cheapest cities Electrical Equipment
and Der Landesbeauftragte für and it is possible to get Most electrical sockets carry
Menschen mit Behinderung. by with very little money. 220V, although in bathrooms
Both of these organizations Travellers wishing to save the voltage may be slightly
can be contacted if you need can purchase a meal lower for safety reasons. Plugs
to hire a wheelchair, a special for a few euros at one of the are the standard continental
bus, or even someone to help many Volksküchen, or “people’s type, with two round pins. Buy
assist for the day. kitchens”, which can be found a European travel adaptor
in a number of former squat before you leave home.
buildings in the eastern
Gay and Lesbian districts. For a full directory check
Travellers www.tressfaktor.squat.net.de.
Berlin is a relaxed and tolerant If eligible, before arriving in
city, and is home to one of the Berlin it is worth getting hold
largest and most diversified gay of an ISIC card (or International
communities in Europe. There Student Identity Card). This
are many vibrant gay scenes entitles you to a 50 per cent
across the city, with numerous reduction on some museum
bars, cafés and clubs. Areas entrance fees and to occasional
that are recommended are the discounts on theatre, plane and
district near Nollendorfplatz rail tickets. Another discount
U-Bahn station in Schöneberg, card, EURO<26, is available for
around Mehringdamm and people up to the age of 30.
Oranienstrasse in Kreuzberg, These cards are only valid in
as well as much of Prenzlauer Europe, but can provide
Berg and Mitte. The magazine many discounts. A stall at Öko-markt in Kollwitzplatz –
Siegessäule is good for up-to- Germany’s excellent Mitfahrer, an organic market
date information. or car-pooling systems, provide
The Berlin Pride Festival is a free or cheap way to get
held at the end of June, and between cities. The main ones Responsible Tourism
there are many other events and are www.mitfahrgelegenheit.de Germany is among the most
festivals held throughout the and www.blablacar.de. Free ecologically aware countries
year. The Schwules Museum accommodation-sharing in Europe, with many well-
contains an exhibition about schemes can be found at established systems in place
the development of gay rights www.couchsurfing.com and to help reduce negative
and the gay community. www.hospitalityclub.org. environmental impact. About 15
per cent of the country’s energy
comes from renewable sources,
a percentage expected to
increase. The Green Party is one
of Berlin’s major parties, and one
of the strongest in Europe. There
are often many independent
demonstrations on environ-
mental and political grounds.
Most Berliners are passionate
cyclists, recyclers and “bio” food
consumers. Given the extent
of environmental awareness,
it’s quite easy to participate in
Revellers at the Berlin Pride Festival impact-reducing schemes whilst
visiting Berlin. Recycling bins Potsdamer Platz, where many guide guests opting for the
can be found at many public of the office buildings have green choice, for example,
locations, such as train stations. grass roofs and water recycling Green Key. Check the green
It’s possible to eat ecologically schemes. The modern Reichstag credentials of a hotel before
by visiting one of the many out building (see pp138–9) is booking – your query may
door organic markets across the successfully powered by encourage other hotels
city (the Öko-markt in Kollwitz renewable energy. to adapt their practices.
platz on Thursdays is regarded There are a number of hotels Berlin is surrounded by nature
as one of the best). Here you in Berlin which claim to operate reserves and there are many
can be sure of the food’s on ecological principles, using accommodation options
origin and buy locally sourced less harmful cleaning products, located in forests with good
produce. Many restaurants also recycled and nontoxic connections to the city centre.
choose to serve organic food. furniture, or renewable Camping is possible, near
To see green building practices electricity. Some accreditation Hauptbahnhof, for those
in action in the city, visit schemes are available to help wanting the greenest option.
DIRECTORY
Embassies Jewish Neues Kranzler Eck Travellers with
Oranienburger Strasse 29. Kurfürstendamm 22. Disabilities
Australian Embassy Map 9 A1. Tel 88 02 80. Map 12 D1. Open
Wallstrasse 76–79. 9:30am–8pm Mon–Sat. Berliner Behinder-
Map 9 C4. Muslim tenverband
Tel 880 08 80. Berliner Moschee, Potsdam Tourismus Jägerstrasse 63d.
Brienner Strasse 7–8. Service Tel 204 38 47.
British Embassy Map 11 A5. Tel 87 357 03. Brandenburger Strasse 3. ∑ bbv-ev.de
Wilhelmstrasse 70. Tel (0331) 27 55 88 99.
Türk Sehitlik Camii
Map 8 E4. ∑ potsdamtourismus.de Der Landes-
(Sehitlik Moschee), beauftragte für
Tel 20 45 70.
Columbiadamm 128. Menschen mit
Canadian Embassy Tel 69 211 18. Travel Safety
Advice Behinderung
Leipziger Platz 17. Oranienstrasse 106.
Protestant
Map 8 E5. Tel 90 28 29 17.
Berliner Dom, Lustgarten. Australia
Tel 20 31 20.
Map 9 B3. Tel 202 691 36. ∑ dfat.gov.au, Mobidat Infoservice
New Zealand KaiserWilhelm smartraveller.gov.au Tel 322 94 03 00.
Embassy Gedächtniskirche, United Kingdom ∑ mobidat.net
Friedrichstrasse 60. Breitscheidplatz. ∑ wheelmap.org
∑ gov.uk/foreign-
Map 8 F2. Map 12 E1. Tel 218 50 23. travel-advice
Tel 20 62 10.
Marienkirche, Karl Gay and Lesbian
United States Travellers
South African LiebknechtStrasse8.
∑ travel.state.gov
Embassy Map 9 C3. Tel 247 595 10.
Schwules Museum
Tiergartenstrasse 18. Museums and
Roman Catholic Lutzowstrasse 73.
Tel 22 07 30. Historic Buildings
StHedwigsKathedrale, Tel 69 59 90 50.
US Embassy Bebelplatz. ∑ schwulesmuseum.de
Berlin Welcome Card
Pariser Platz 2. Map 9 A3. Tel 20 348 10.
∑ berlin-welcome Siegessäule
Map 8 E4. Tel 830 50.
card.de ∑ siegessaeule.de
Tourist
Religious Information CityTourCard Travelling on
Services ∑ citytourcard.com a Budget
Berlin Tourismus &
American Church Kongress GmbH Info-Telefon der
EURO<26
Lutherkirche, Am Karlsbad 11. Staatlichen Museen ∑ euro26.org
Dannewitzstrasse. Tel 25 00 23 33. zu Berlin
Tel 813 20 21. Fax 25 00 24 24. Tel 266 42 42 42. ISIC
∑ visitberlin.de ∑ smb.museum ∑ isiccard.com
Anglican Church
St Georg, Preussenallee Brandenburg Gate Stiftung Preussische Responsible
17–19. Pariser Platz, southern Schlösser und Gärten Tourism
Tel 304 12 80. building. Map 8 E3, 15 A3. Berlin-Brandenburg
∑ stgeorges.de Open 9:30am–6pm daily Tel (0331) 969 42 200. Green Key
(to 7pm in summer). ∑ spsg.de ∑ green-key.org
Huguenot
Französischer Dom, Hauptbahnhof Guided Tours Öko-markt
Friedrichstadtkirche, Europaplatz 1, level 0, Kollwitzplatz, Prenzlauer
Gendarmenmarkt 5. northern entrance. Segway Tours Berg. Open midMar–Dec:
Map 9 A4. Map 8 D1. Tel 240 479 91. ∑ city- noon–7pm Thu; Jan–mid
Tel 229 17 60. Open 8am–10pm daily. segwaytours.com/berlin Mar: noon–6pm Thu.
Personal Security and Health Ambulances are operated by

many different companies, but
Berlin is a relatively safe cosmopolitan city, with few serious the emergency call centre will
security concerns. Crime isn’t usually directed at tourists; dispatch the nearest ambulance
the most serious incidents, such as car burnings (for which unit available. In less urgent
the city has a reputation), are usually targeted at rich circumstances you can request
an ambulance or a doctor by
residents living in formerly poor neighbourhoods.
calling the Medical Services
Nevertheless, as with all major European destinations, number, which may take up to
you should always be careful with your belongings, 2 hours to respond to a call.
particularly during rush hours. If you do run into trouble, On S- and U-Bahn platforms
or need advice, you should seek help from the police. there are panic buttons that
connect you to an operator,
who will call the appropriate
are not obliged to answer emergency service.
any questions and any A special Chemist Information
interviews that are conducted number is available offering
must be carried out in the information about chemists,
presence of a translator. which is helpful when searching
for a pharmacist after hours.
Another option is to contact
What to Be Aware Of your embassy, which should be
Berlin, like most major cities, able to inform you which
has a number of beggars who doctors are able to speak your
hassle tourists. It is common to language. Other helplines
be approached by women include a Poisons emergencies
carrying cards written in English service and a Confidential
which request money. These Helpline for Women.
people are often more of a
nuisance than a threat. If you
wish to help the homeless, it’s Lost and Stolen Property
Police officers in Berlin more helpful to donate direct There is one central bureau for
to a charity (www.berliner- lost property in Berlin (the
Police (How to Report stadtmission.de). Pickpockets Zentrales Fundbüro) and this is
a Crime) can also be a problem. where anything left in public is
For serious crimes in progress, Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station deposited. It is worth noting,
call the emergency police is notorious for its drug pushers, however, that the BVG (Berliner
number, 110. For all other so be careful there late at night. Verkehrsbetriebe) has its own
crimes, you should call the non- Like most big cities, few of the office (the Fundbüro der BVG)
emergency police number and S- and U-Bahn stations are for items left on buses or
ask to speak to an English- pleasant after dark, but they trams or on the U-Bahn
speaking officer. They will are often patrolled by system. Some items left on
inform you of the address of the guards – if you need help, S-Bahn trains may also be
nearest police station and give you can approach them. sent to the Zentrales
you basic information about Panic buttons on platforms Fundbüro der Deutschen
what to do next. can also be used in an Bahn AG in Wuppertal.
At the police station, you will emergency. Unfortunately, tourists are
be asked some questions and more frequently targeted by
may have to sign a statement. thieves than any other
The officer may ask for specific In an Emergency group, which is why all
details, such as serial numbers The first number to call valuables should ideally
or pictures of stolen items. If it is in an emergency is 112, be kept in a hotel safe.
a more serious matter you may which connects you to Thankfully, serious
be asked to return to give evid- the emergency call centre robberies are rare in
ence; smaller problems might for medical, fire or police A public fire Berlin, but pickpockets
be resolved in your absence. assistance. The police alarm are active, particularly
If you are accused of a crime, also operate a separate in crowds and on
you have the right to request emergency number, 110. the U-Bahn system. If you are
that police contact your If you spot a fire, phone the unlucky enough to be the
embassy (see p281), which emergency number and ask for victim of street crime, you
should then provide basic the Fire Brigade, or Feuerwehr, should report it to the police
assistance and may give you or use one of the emergency straight away. Remember to
legal support or suggest a alarm buttons located in obtain a statement confirming
lawyer to represent you. You public areas. what items were stolen – you
calling the Chemist Travel and Health

Information hotline. Insurance
When visiting an EU nationals holding a
after-hours phar- European Health Insurance
macy, you will be Card (EHIC) are entitled to
served through a use the German health
window in the door service, and usually receive
A German fire engine and will have to wait free emergency treatment.
outside while your You may need to pay for
prescription is treatments and then reclaim
provided. You may the cost. All tourists should
need a doctor’s have travel insurance.
prescription to
obtain certain DIRECTORY
pharmaceuticals,
German police patrol car, a common sight and the pharmacist In an Emergency
can inform you of
Confidential Helpline
will need this when it comes to the closest doctor’s practice.
making any insurance claims. Visitors who require prescribed for Women
If you are travelling by car, medication should ensure they Tel 615 42 43.
don’t leave photographic take enough to cover their Fire Brigade and
equipment or luggage in open stay, in case it is not available. Ambulance
view, and try to use a secure There are many so-called Tel 112.
car park or hotel garage Drogerien, such as the chain
whenever possible. stores Rossmann and DM, Medical Services
which look like pharmacies but Tel 31 00 31.
sell only toiletries and beauty Poison Helpline
Pharmacies and products. Only Apotheken
Hospitals are authorized to sell
Tel 192 40.
It’s never hard to find a Berlin pharmaceutical products. Police

pharmacy, or Apotheke. There There are several Tel 110 (Emergency).
is one on almost every major hospitals in Tel 4664 4664 (Non-Emergency).
city block, and they Berlin, all equipped
are marked by large with casualty units. Lost and Stolen
distinctive signs The most central Property
bearing the letter “A”. hospital is Charité
Pharmacies are Mitte Campus in Fundbüro der BVG
generally open from Mitte. Call the Potsdamer Strasse 180–182.
8am to 6pm Monday emergency Medical Tel 194 49.
Symbol for Apotheke
to Saturday. At least Services number for ∑ bvg.de
(pharmacy)
one pharmacy in information about Open 9am–6pm Mon–Thu,
each district is open your nearest hospital. 9am–2pm Fri.
after hours and on Sundays When visiting a hospital or
and public holidays. The using an ambulance, you Zentrales Fundbüro
addresses are usually posted may be charged a €10 Platz der Luftbrücke 6.
near the door of any pharmacy, consultation fee even if Tel 90277 31 01.
or can be easily obtained by you have health insurance. Open 9am–2pm Mon, Tue, Fri &
Sat, 1–6pm Thu.
Zentrales Fundbüro der
Deutschen Bahn AG
Döppersberg 37, 42103
Wuppertal.
Tel 0900 190 599.
Pharmacies and
Hospitals
Charité Mitte Campus
Charitéplatz 1.
Tel 450 50.
Chemist Information
Tel 11 880.
An independent chemist in Berlin’s city centre
Banking and Local Currency while using ATMs; be aware

of anyone standing close to
Unlike in many other countries, it is quite hard to travel you when using one and be
around in Germany without cash. Credit card use is not sure to shield the numbered
prevalent, although it has been steadily on the increase. Many keypad while you are entering
your PIN.
retailers – including major supermarkets – still refuse credit
cards or foreign bank cards, as do smaller shops, cafés and
bars. However, ATMs are easy to find in most areas if you need Debit and Credit Cards
to withdraw cash using a credit or debit card. You may find it difficult to get
by using only a credit card.
Cards are accepted in some
Banks and hotels, shops and restaurants,
Bureaux de Change but not all. A sign on the door
Most visitors use debit cards for should tell you if cards are
safety. Cash can be exchanged at accepted, and which brands
banks and bureaux de change they take – VISA and
(Wechselstuben). The major MasterCard are most
banks, such as Deutsche Bank frequently accepted, and
and ReiseBank, usually have sometimes American Express
similar rates of exchange, but and Diners Club as well.
some charge a commission; ask Some cafés and restaurants
how much before commencing require a minimum purchase
your transaction. Bank opening ATM – a convenient method for to use a credit card. If you
hours vary from branch to accessing cash while in Berlin are only ordering a snack, check
branch, but generally are as that you have some cash in
follows: 9am to 4pm (Monday, ATMs case your card is not accepted.
Wednesday, Friday) and 9am to ATMs are easy to find and use. Many shops accept Electronic
6pm (Tuesday and Thursday). Most are operated by banks Cash cards, or EC cards, which
Bureaux de change are often and are accessible 24 hours are issued by German banks.
located close to railway stations a day, in well-serviced lobbies. Your regular bank debit card
and airports. Exchange AG Most ATMs have multiple- may be accepted in shops, but
and Reisebank AG are among language menu options and check before relying on this
the most reliable places for accept all major credit and method of payment.
exchanging cash or traveller’s debit card systems, including
cheques. Others can be Maestro, Cirrus, VISA and DIRECTORY
found downtown, around MasterCard. Less commonly
Joachimstaler Strasse in the accepted are American Banks and
west and Friedrichstrasse in the Express, Diners Club and other Bureaux de Change
east. You can also exchange cards. Check the machine for
cash at hotel reception desks, the corresponding logos. Deutsche Bank
but rates are often poor. Given Note that some ATMs are ∑ deutsche-bank.de
the high commission rates operated by private companies
Exchange AG
sometimes charged by banks which may charge large fees,
and bureaux de change, the and some banks may add an Friedrichstrasse 150–153.
most economical way to extra charge for using an Tel 20 64 92 96.
get cash can be to withdraw international terminal.
ReiseBank
from an ATM. Always exercise caution
∑ reisebank.de
Lost Cards and

Cheques
American Express
Tel (069) 97 97 20 00.
Diners Club
Tel 07531 36 33 111.
MasterCard
Tel 0800 819 1040.
VISA
Tel 0800 811 8440.
One of the city’s many banks where money can be exchanged
The Euro in 2002. EU members using the designs of fictional architectural

The euro (€) is the common euro as sole official currency are structures. The coins, however,
currency of the European Union. known as the Eurozone. Several have one side identical (the
It went into general circulation EU members have opted out of value side), and one side with
on 1 January 2002, initially for 12 joining this common currency. an image unique to each
participating countries. Germany Euro notes are identical country. Both notes and coins
was one of those countries, and throughout the Eurozone are exchangeable in all
the German mark was phased out countries, each one including participating euro countries.
Banknotes
Euro banknotes have seven
denominations. The €5 note (grey in
colour) is the smallest, followed by
the €10 note (pink), €20 note (blue),
€50 note (orange), €100 note
(green), €200 note (yellow) and
€500 note (purple). All notes show 5 euros
the stars of the European Union.
10 euros
20 euros
50 euros
100 euros
200 euros
500 euros
2 euros 1 euro 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents

Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations:
€1 and €2; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents,
5 cents, 2 cents and 1 cent. The €2 and €1
coins are both silver and gold in colour.
The 50-, 20- and 10-cent coins are gold.
The 5-, 2- and 1-cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
Communications and Media

The postal and telecommunications networks and services
in Germany are very efficient. Letters addressed within
the country are usually delivered within 24 hours. Public
telephones are becoming rare, though they can be found
at railway stations and in some busy public areas. Mobile
telephone coverage is excellent – you can buy a cheap
pre-paid SIM card to use during your visit – and Wi-Fi access
is widely available. News and information services are
excellent in Germany. There is a plethora of good-quality
newspapers, magazines, and television and radio channels.
For English-language news and information, the best place A typical Deutsche Telekom public
to turn is the Internet. The website VisitBerlin.de is a good telephone booth in Berlin
information source and will keep you up-to-date with what
is happening across the city. into a point-of-sale machine
at the cashier, or you may
be given a voucher with
International and Local is expected to ban roaming fees instructions on entering
Telephone Calls within the region from the a code into your handset.
Although the number of public middle of June 2017, so visitors To call local numbers using
phone booths is constantly to Berlin from within the EU will your mobile phone, you will
being reduced, Deutsche be able to use their phones at have to enter the local area
Telekom still operates a network minimal cost. code, 030 for Berlin and 0331
across Berlin and Germany. Alternatively, it can be a for Potsdam. If using an inter-
Some accept coins, but more good idea to buy a local SIM national mobile phone, you
common are phones that take card with a German telephone may need to add the national
credit cards as payment. It is number. This can also help calling code (+49), remove the
also possible to buy a pre-paid reduce the costs of using public first zero, then complete the
telephone card from newspaper or hotel telephones to call number as listed.
kiosks, post offices and tourist local numbers. There are many
offices. A small number of companies offering cheap
telephone boxes for long- pre-paid SIM cards, for example, The Internet
distance calls are operated BASE, which you can insert into Wi-Fi access is widely available
by other companies. These your mobile (check with your across Berlin, with free Wi-Fi
normally accept coins and regular service provider about hotspots dotted around the
credit cards. possible restrictions), or Lebara, city. Visitors don’t need to
If you are staying in a hotel, whose packages include free register to access but will
making telephone calls from minutes to over 40 countries. need to accept the terms of
your room is usually the least SIM card packages are sold at use. Wi-Fi networks in cafés,
economical option. For long- most supermarkets and conven- libraries, hotels and hostels
distance calls, the cheapest ience stores. may be passwod protected –
option is often to visit an To add credit, buy a credit just ask for the password or
Internet and telephone café. voucher from the cashier. access code, which is usually
Internet and telephone cen- Sometimes you will be asked provided free of charge to
tres often sell international call- to enter your phone number the customer.
ing cards, which can be used
from any phone. The quality
and value of such cards varies
greatly. It is worth requesting a
receipt upon purchase in case
your card is faulty.
Mobile Phones
Mobile phone coverage is
generally excellent throughout
the city. If you are travelling with
a mobile phone, it is advisable
to check roaming rates with
your mobile provider before
travelling. The European Union An Internet café and shop
Important Numbers
• Germany country code 49. • To make an international call,
• Berlin area code 030. dial 00 followed by the
• Potsdam area code 0331. country code, area code and
• National directory inquiries number, omitting the initial 0.
11 8 33. Country codes: UK 44; Eire
• International directory 353; Canada and US 1;
inquiries 11 8 34. Australia 61; South Africa 27;
• Emergency 112. New Zealand 64. International and German newspapers on
display at a street vendor stall
Postal Services letters can be collected from
German post offices are easy to a number of post offices, Television and Radio
spot with their distinctive yellow depending on the postcode You will be spoiled for choice
Deutsche Post signs. Mailboxes, they are addressed to. For the when it comes to television
too, are an eye-catching yellow. central Friedrichstrasse post channels. Apart from the
As in other European coun- office, the postcode is 10117, national ARD and ZDF, there
tries, you can send registered and for the Joachimstaler are many regional and private
letters, parcels and money Strasse post office in West channels. Berlin has its very own
orders from post offices. They Berlin, use the postcode 10623. channel, RBB, alongside national
also offer stamps, telephone As well as the nationalized channels RTL, RTL2, SAT1 and
cards and the usual variety of Deutsche Post, Germany also PRO7. You can pick up special
postal stationery, as well as has a private mail network, interest channels, like DSF for
some banking services. If the known as PIN Mail, which offers sport and VIVA or MTV for music.
office is closed, you can use competitive prices for domestic In addition to these there is
automatic stamp and package mail and package delivery even an option for Turkish
machines, which have instruc- services. You can find their programmes in Berlin, and
tions in multiple languages. distinctive green-coloured thanks to cable and satellite
When posting a letter, always offices in various locations television you can easily tune
check the labels on the mailbox. across the city, and their into foreign programmes in
Some boxes are divided, with mailboxes can be found English, American, French and
one side accepting mail for in some newsagents. many other languages. In hotels,
within Berlin only, and the television channels mainly cover
other accepting everything else. the news, music and sport. For
Opening times can vary Newspapers radio news in English, tune into
widely, but most post offices and Magazines the BBC World Service (94.8 MHz)
in Berlin are usually open from Newspapers can be bought in and NPR Berlin (104.1 MHz).
8am to 6pm on weekdays, and shops all over Berlin, but mostly
until 1pm on Saturdays. Those they are sold by the city’s DIRECTORY
with extended hours, including numerous street vendors. In the
Sundays, are at major railway evenings you may also find Mobile Phones
stations and central areas, such them on sale in bars and cafés. BASE
as Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse in The most popular titles are the ∑ base.de
Georgenstrasse. Poste restante Berliner Zeitung, Der Tagesspiegel,
the Berliner Morgenpost and BZ. Lebara
Foreign-language papers can be ∑ lebara.de
Information about
collection times found all over the city, especially
Internet
at airport and railway kiosks.
Some of the major department Internet Café
Slot for Slot for local stores also have a good range of Schönhauser Allee 188, Mitte.
non-local letters letters newspapers and magazines. Open 8am–4am daily.
The two best magazines
devoted to cultural events are Postal Services
Zitty and Tip, which cover the Deutsche Post
major (as well as minor) Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse,
concerts, exhibitions and Georgenstrasse 12.
lectures held throughout Berlin. Open 6am–10pm Mon–Fri,
The very latest news can also 8am–10pm Sat & Sun.
be obtained from tourist ∑ deutschepost.de
information centres and the
PIN Mail
Internet. For visitors, VisitBerlin.
∑ pin-ag.de
Typical Berlin-style mailbox de is essential for keeping
found on street corners up-to-date with events.
GETTING TO BERLIN
Berlin lies at the heart of Europe and has anywhere in Europe, and takes you to
excellent rail and air links with the rest of the centre of Berlin. One of the cheapest
the continent. Its airport receives regular ways to travel to the city is by international
flights from major European cities as well coach, although this is usually the slowest
as North America, the Middle East and form of transport. If you are travelling
southeast Asia. Likewise Lufthansa, the by car, the Autobahn (motorway) leads
German national carrier, and airberlin offer to the Berliner Ring (Berlin Circular Road),
flights to destinations around the world. from where a number of exits are
The efficient railway network is as good as signposted to the city centre.
Berlin Brandenburg
Airport
Following ongoing delays,
Berlin's new airport is currently
expected to open in 2017.
It will ultimately replace the
closed Tempelhof and Berlin's
two remaining airports, Tegel
and Schönefeld, which has
been rebuilt and expanded. It is
informally named after the late
Willy Brandt, the former West
Berlin mayor and chancellor
of West Germany.
Quick boarding with an electronic boarding pass for Lufthansa Airlines Berlin Brandenburg will have
an initial capacity of 27 million
Arriving by Air Lufthansa's lowcost subsidiary passengers a year, an increase
Schönefeld and Tegel airports Germanwings offers indirect of about 5 million passengers
are Berlin's main airports until connections to London and from the previous airports. The
Berlin Brandenburg Airport North America. design of the terminal will leave
opens in 2017. This new airport room for expansion, meaning
will significantly increase the that up to 45 million passengers
city’s capacity to receive inter Tickets and Fares could eventually pass through
national flights, with airlines When planning your trip to annually. The airport code will
such as airberlin, Lufthansa, Berlin, it is worth shopping be BER, marked on all tickets
Condor, Air France and easyJet around, as prices can vary
able to increase the frequency enormously. Some of the best
of existing flights and add deals are offered by inclusive
numerous new destinations tour operators such as Tuifly
to their schedules. and Thomas Cook; see your
Berlin receives many flights local travel agent for details.
from destinations through Air fares are usually cheaper
out Europe, North America when booked well in advance,
and Asia. The most frequent and discounts are available for
flights are by Lufthansa and children and students. Low
British Airways, offering flight cost airlines, such as Ryanair
connections from all over and easyJet, can only be
Europe and beyond. From booked via the Internet. A
North America, Delta and useful source of uptodate
United fly to Berlin from information on schedules and
New York. easyJet offers daily fares to Berlin is www.opodo.
connections from London com, a site operated by a
Luton and Gatwick airports, consortium of European
and Ryanair flies from London airlines including Lufthansa.
Stansted three times daily. Another helpful site is
airberlin has direct flights from www.skyscanner.net. If you
New York and Los Angeles and are willing to travel at short
indirect connections from notice, you may be able to The 31-m (100-ft) observation tower at
London Stansted and Gatwick. find a lastminute bargain. Berlin Brandenburg Airport
GETTING TO BERLIN  289
Former Airports
Airport aficionados may like
to explore Berlin’s now-closed
terminals, especially the historic
Flughafen Tempelhof (see p149).
Built during the Third Reich,
Tempelhof has since been
transformed into a giant public
park. At weekends the old
airfield is full of kite-flyers,
cyclists and urban gardeners.
The old terminal is still in its
original state, and is used for
events and conferences. The
future of the Tegel terminal is
under debate; it may become
Lufthansa aeroplane a business centre or a
university campus.
and baggage tags. The airport network by taking a bus. The
features a striking observation X7 and X11 shuttle buses go to DIRECTORY
tower, designed by Berlin Rudow U-Bahn station, from
architects Karin and Ramsi where the U7 line runs to the Airlines
Kusus. Visitors can climb the city centre.
airberlin
tower for a view over the From Sunday to Thursday, most
Saatwinkler Damm 42–43.
airfield, which will have its own public transport services run
Tel (01805) 73 78 00.
motorway exit on the A113 and from 4am until midnight. After
∑ airberlin.com
excellent railway services. this time, a night bus service
continues to operate. From the British Airways
airport, you can take the N7 bus, Budapesterstrasse 18b.
Transport from which travels slowly to the Tel (01805) 26 65 22.
the Airport central districts and connects ∑ ba.com
Schönefeld is located 20 km to other bus lines. On Fridays and Delta
(12 miles) southeast of the city Saturdays, most public transport ∑ delta.com
centre, and is easily accessible by runs 24 hours across the city.
rail and road. It is near to the new A convenient but more expen- easyJet
Berlin Brandenburg Airport and sive option to get to the city ∑ easyjet.com
has good and affordable public centre is by taxi, which should Germanwings
transport connections. cost between €30 and €40. Tel (0900) 19 19 19.
The fastest way to the centre Tegel airport is located 5 miles ∑ germanwings.com
of the city is to take one of the (8 km) from the city centre and
frequent Airport Express trains can be reached easily by bus or Lufthansa
operated by Deutsche Bahn. The taxi, both of which stop in front Friedrichstrasse 185–190.
Tel (01805) 805 805.
RE7 travels via Ostbahnhof to of the main hall. A trip by bus
∑ lufthansa.com
Alexanderplatz, Hauptbahnhof to the city centre usually takes
and Zoologischer Garten; the 25–30 minutes and costs €2.60. Ryanair
RB14 takes the same route but Alternatively, bus no. 128 links ∑ ryanair.com
continues on to Charlottenburg the airport with U-Bahn station
United
and Spandau; and the RE9 travels Kurt-Schumacher-Platz on the
∑ united.com
via Südkreuz and Potsdamer Platz U6 line, while bus no. 109 links
to Hauptbahnhof. Trains run to Jakob-Kaiser-Platz station on Tickets and Fares
every 15 minutes. A ticket costs the U7 line. If travelling by taxi, a
€3.20, and can be purchased trip to the centre costs between Thomas Cook
from machines on the platform; €20 and €30. ∑ thomascook.com
the same ticket price applies for
Tuifly
all forms of public transport –
∑ tuifly.com
S-Bahn, U-Bahn and bus.
Another rail option is the local Airports
S-Bahn network, which is slower,
with more stations. The S9 and Berlin Brandenburg
the S45 trains both run from the Airport/Schönefeld
airport every 10 minutes and Airport/Tegel Airport
connect with the city-wide Tel 60 91 11 50.
S-Bahn system. It is also possible Destinations listings on the ∑ berlin-airport.de
to connect to the U-Bahn departures board
290  sur vival guide
the different fares currently on

offer. There are also discounts
available by booking online, for
travelling in groups and for
those under 26 years of age.
Berlin’s central railway station,
Hauptbahnhof, opened in 2006
and is one of Europe’s biggest
rail traffic hubs. With its two
soaring glass and steel office
The engine of an ICE (Inter City Express) train towers and a vast main hall, the
station is a spectacular sight.
Arriving by Train If you are thinking of staying in The Hauptbahnhof is the main
The standards of European Germany for quite a while, and station for all Deutsche Bahn
public transport are generally are keen to travel around a lot by trains with German and
very high, particularly in central train, one of the cheapest international destinations or
Europe, so whichever rail link options is an InterRail card. This origins. Several SBahn routes
you take to Berlin your journey can be bought by persons of any (S3, S5, S7 and S75) link the
is bound to be comfortable. age, from any European country station with the city. A short
The city has excellent (and a variety of neighbouring UBahn line, the U55, travels
connections with most major countries), and gives the from here to the Bundestag and
German and European cities. traveller unlimited access to rail Brandenburger Tor, and there are
There are direct services transport in a selection of plans to extend this line to
between Berlin and Zürich, European countries. meet the U5 at
Brussels, Prague, Amsterdam, Tickets can be Alexanderplatz.
Paris and Warsaw. Besides these bought online. The station also
lines, there are many con North American has a Deutsche
venient international routes visitors can enquire Bahn Customer
to choose from, via other into Eurail cards, Centre, a tourist
German cities. which are available office, a lost and
Deutsche Bahn, the through travel Logo of Deutsche Bahn found bureau,
national railway company, agents or online. (German Railways) shops, restaurants,
operates a famously efficient The prices vary rental car agencies,
service that crisscrosses the depending on your age and the a bank, late night services and
country. The Regional Bahn (RB) number of countries you want a supermarket that is open on
and Regional Express (RE) trains to visit, and the duration of the Sundays.
operate routes around the pass; the younger the visitor, The former West Berlin central
greater Berlin and Potsdam and the more limited number railway station, the Bahnhof Zoo
area, while longer distances are of countries you wish to visit, (now called Zoologischer
served by Inter City (IC) and the cheaper the card. Garten), has become a regional
European City (EC) trains. At various times of the year, railway station, but with many
For a luxurious experience, but especially in summer, there U and SBahn lines connecting
take an Inter City Express (ICE) are often special deals offering here, it is still an important
service; these sleek trains are discounted travel. Among these traffic hub in the western
the most expensive mode are weekend tickets and family downtown area. The best place
of rail transport, but are also tickets. It pays to visit the to obtain information about
extremely fast and comfortable. information desk and ask about public transport is the BVG
pavilion on Hardenbergplatz
(see p295).
Some trains coming from
destinations in the south or east
arrive in Ostbahnhof, a conven
ient station where you can easily
exchange money and send mail.
Ostbahnhof is linked to other
districts in Berlin via SBahn.
Remember that the ticket for
your journey to Berlin is also
valid on all SBahn connections
to other stations, providing you
use it immediately on arrival.
For details of train times and
destinations call the Deutsche
Covered platforms at the airy, modern Hauptbahnhof Bahn Information line.
GETTING TO BERLIN  291
Coach Travel
Wherever you can travel by train,
it is likely you can also travel by
coach (long-distance bus), and
Germany is no exception. On
international routes, the fast
network of Autobahnen
(motorways) enables coaches to
nearly match the speed of trains. One of the many coach services available in Berlin
Some try to raise the level of
comfort by showing videos and wherever you are going DIRECTORY
serving light refreshments, but (although not during rush hour).
coaches generally are less While driving around the city, Trains
roomy and less comfortable than keep an eye on your speed; the
trains. It is often a matter of cost; police are extremely vigilant at Deutsche Bahn Information
coach travel is nearly always doing speed checks. Less- Tel 0180 5 99 66 33.
cheaper than rail travel. experienced drivers may feel a Deutsche Bahn UK
After you have visited Berlin, little uneasy on the Autobahn,
Booking Centre
you may decide to take a coach as German drivers tend to zoom
Tel +44 (0) 8718 80 80 66.
trip to another German city or along at speeds reaching
further afield. If so, the place to 200 km/h (125 mph). Keep to ∑ bahn.de
go is the Zentral-Omnibus- the right, unless you are over- Eurail and InterRail
Bahnhof, situated near the taking. Always remember to ∑ raildude.com
Internationales Congress check your side- and rear-view
Centrum in the west of the city, mirrors before switching to a Hauptbahnhof
best reached via the Messe left-hand lane. If you want to Service point at northern
Nord/ICC S-Bahn station. This is overtake, make sure there’s entrance, ground floor.
the city’s largest long-distance nobody coming up behind. Map 8 D1.
bus station, and you will find The speed at which fast cars
Tel 0180 599 6633.
connections to towns all over come up behind you can be
Germany, as well as links to surprising. On some stretches
Coaches
other major European cities. of the Autobahn, lower speed
The main coach companies limits are imposed depending Berlin Linien Bus
that stop in Berlin are Eurolines, on weather and road conditions. Mannheimer Str. 33/34.
Berlin Linien Bus, Student If you require assistance on the
Tel 338 44 80.
Agency Bus and Ecolines. road, you can call ADAC Auto
∑ berlinlinienbus.de
Some coach companies, on Assistance (see p293). If you are
overnight journeys, offer more involved in an accident, call the Ecolines
comfortable sleeper seats for a police on 110. Tel (069) 401 59 055.
small extra charge. Driving licences from all ∑ ecolines.net
European countries are valid in
Germany. Visitors from other Eurolines
countries need an international Tel (069) 7903 501.
licence. You must also carry your ∑ eurolines.com
passport and the standard
documentation (including Student Agency Bus
insurance certificate or “green ∑ studentagencybus.com
card”) if driving your own car. To
Zentral-Omnibus-Bahnhof
Typical road signs indicating the rent a car you will need a credit
Autobahn and a district in Berlin card as well as a valid driver’s (Cental Bus Station)
licence. There are several places Messedamm 4.
Travelling by Car to rent vehicles around the city, Map 3 C5.
Berlin is surrounded by a circular including the major train Tel 30 10 01 75.
Autobahn or motorway (the stations and airports (see p293).
Berliner Ring), which is linked As in most countries, German
to Autobahnen leading to law is tough on drinking and
Dresden, Nürnberg, Munich, driving. In the event of an
Hannover, Hamburg and accident, or being pulled over
beyond. Numerous exits from by the police, you may find
the ring road are signposted yourself in serious trouble if
into the city centre, but the alcohol is found in your blood-
road is so long that it is stream. It is better not to take
sometimes quicker to cut the risk in the first place, and
through town to get to abstain from drinking.
GETTING AROUND BERLIN

Getting around Berlin is easy and enjoyable, and buses are also reliable. If you happen to
thanks to the wonderfully efficient public get a double-decker, they are excellent for
transport system. It’s also a great city to sightseeing. Drivers, however, may find that
experience by bicycle or foot. Most of its main Berlin isn’t the easiest of cities to drive in,
sights are located in the city centre and can largely because of the endless road works.
easily be reached by cycling or walking. More Building sites are scattered all over the city, and
peripheral areas can be reached by public the number of parking spaces is inadequate
transport. U- and S-Bahn trains systems are by in central areas, so congestion is bad and
far the quickest way to travel, but the trams driving should be avoided if possible.
Walking Driving
German drivers are generally Driving around Berlin is not as
careful and watch out for straightforward as it is in some
pedestrians, but vigilance is still European capitals. Most of
needed. Cyclists travelling at downtown Berlin (inside the
speed can be dangerous, as SBahn ring) is a green zone,
many cycle routes run along where only vehicles with an
the pavements (sidewalks), approved environmental badge
only marked by a line or by a are allowed. You can buy the
Lights at a pedestrian crossing indicating different colour (normally red). badge online at www.umwelt
when it’s safe to cross You can easily be hit, or at plakette.de. Most rental cars
least scolded for being in are covered.
Green Travel the wrong lane. Local drivers are mostly careful
There is almost no reason to When searching for a specific and don’t break speed limits or
use a car in Berlin, as public street address, keep in mind enter junctions on yellow lights.
transport is extensive and effic that street numbers sometimes You are allowed to turn right on
ient, even to the outer reaches increase along one side of the a red light if a green arrow is
of the city. You can buy day, street and then turn around at also showing.
week or monthlong passes the end and continue on the Petrol stations can be found
to make your visit cost effec other side. Street signs on each right across the city. Some may
tive (see p294). For long corner include the numbers require you to pay before your
distance trips, there are many within that particular block. pump is activated.
fast train connections, as well Disabled visitors should con You won’t have a problem
as safe and effective Mitfahrer tact Mobidat Infoservice or the hiring a car in Berlin, as long as
carpooling schemes that Berliner Behindertenverband you show your passport and a
stretch across Europe for advice on getting around, valid driving licence; a credit
(www.mitfahrgelegenheit.de). including wheelchair rental and card is the preferred method of
The best way to see Berlin other support services. payment. There are many hire
is by bicycle. There are more
than 600 km (372 miles) of
dedicated bicycle lanes, and
drivers give cyclists respect
when sharing the road. It’s
easy to hire a bike for a day,
a week, or even an hour
through DB Call-A-Bike,
the public cycling scheme
operated by Deutsche
Bahn (see p293).
There are several hundred
Umwelt Taxis (Environmental
Taxis) operating in Berlin. They
carry a sign to indicate that
they use Erdgas, or natural gas,
which is slightly less polluting
than other fossil fuels.
Other green travel systems
include Segway tours (see Stopping and parking prohibited from Parking permitted during working hours
p279) and Velo Taxi. Monday to Friday and at weekends only with a ticket
GETTING AROUND BERLIN  293
Parking Meter DIRECTORY

Parking meters are used
on most streets. You have
Walking
to pay for parking Berliner
depending on the parking Information Behindertenverband
zone; usually between in different Jägerstrasse 63d.
9am and 7pm on languages Tel 204 38 48.
weekdays, and 9am and Mobidat Infoservice
2pm on Saturdays. Check Slot for Tel 322 94 03 00.
signs for information. inserting
coins Driving
ADAC Auto Assistance
Tel (01802) 22 22 22.
Clock indicating ∑ adac.de
date and time Ticket is Avis
dispensed here Tel (01805) 21 77 02.
∑ avis.com
Europcar
companies, including Avis, in the designated space. Bikes
Tel (040) 520 187 654.
Europcar, Hertz and Sixt, with are prohibited on buses, except
∑ europcar.de
offices at the airports, railway night buses, which can carry up
stations and in the city centre. to two at the driver’s discretion. Hertz
If you experience any trouble For all public transport an Tel (01803) 33 535.
on the road, you should call additional Fahrrad (bicycle) ∑ hertz.com
ADAC Auto Assistance. ticket is required. Sixt
Deutsche Bahn operates a Tel (01805) 252 525.
fantastic public bicycle system. ∑ sixt.de
Parking You can find ranks of their spec-
Finding a parking place won’t ially marked DB Call-a-Bike Parking
always be easy, especially bicycles at train stations and Berlin Police (towed
during lunchtime, but with a bit major intersections. To rent one, vehicles)
of luck you should be able to register using the computer Tel 4664 98 78 00.
leave your car in the middle lane terminal found at each station
of the Ku’damm or near by providing your credit card Cycling
Alexanderplatz. There are also details. A one-off registration
parking meters on nearly every fee of €12 applies. The first 30 DB Call-a-Bike
street, and many car parks. minutes are free, and then the ∑ callabike.de
Parking your car illegally is not cost is 8 cents a minute, up to Fahrradstation
worth the risk; Berlin traffic a maximum of €15 a day or Dorotheenstrasse 30.
wardens are constantly on the €60 a week. Tel (01805) 108 000. Open Mar–
prowl, and as well as giving you You can also hire bikes at Oct: 10am–7:30pm Mon–Fri (to
a ticket, they can have your many cycling shops for similar 6pm Sat, to 4pm Sun); Nov–Feb:
vehicle towed. If your vehicle or cheaper rates; one of the 10am–7pm Mon–Fri (to 4pm Sat).
is towed away, you must call most reliable is Fahrradstation. Velo Taxi
the Berlin Police. It can cost Or take a ride in a Velo Taxi. You Tel 2803 1609. Open Apr–Oct.
up to €250 to locate your will be transported in an open- ∑ velotaxi.com
vehicle. For a cheaper solution, air coach on the back of a bike.
search nearby streets – cars
are sometimes simply moved
rather than impounded.
Cycling
Most of the main roads have
designated cycling lanes and
traffic lights at intersections.
When using bicycle racks, make
sure your bike is locked and
don’t leave it for too long.
You can take your bike on U-
and S-Bahn trains and trams but
must enter the carriage by the
correct door and leave your bike DB Call-a-Bike bicycles for rent
Buses, Trams and Taxis Travelling by Bus

Bus stops are marked by signs
Travelling by bus in Berlin is highly recommended. Buses are bearing the letter H, for
efficient, generally on time and they travel useful routes – Haltestelle or stop. All bus
although some buses can get crowded during rush hour. routes have a detailed time-
table on display at each stop.
Most of the major roads have special bus lanes so buses are Inner-city bus stops are
punctual even when the main roads are congested. A double- equipped with digital screens
decker bus is worth taking if you’re new in town and want to indicating waiting times.
have a good look round (see Useful Bus Routes map on the Bus stops are often relocated
City Map). Trams are another particularly good option in the due to road works. You can
always find a replacement
central and eastern parts of the city; like the buses and
stop nearby.
S-Bahn lines they are part of BVG and accept the same tickets. Apart from its number, a bus
will also have its destination on
show; pay attention to this, as
some buses shorten their
routes outside rush hour. It is
not always necessary to flag
down buses at stops, but it can
help. Enter via the front door
and buy a ticket from the
driver. If you are transferring
and already have a validated
ticket, show this.
Approaching stop names are
announced automatically and
are displayed digitally. Press the
BVG pavilion on Hardenbergplatz providing transport information Halt (“Stop”) button to get off;
most stops are made “on
in a red or yellow time- request” only (especially in the
Tickets stamping machine found near suburbs). To exit, you must press
The whole of Berlin is divided the ticket machines, at platform a button to open the doors.
into three travel zones: A, B and entrances and on board buses.
C. Zone A covers the city centre, Children under 14 years old are
Zone B the outskirts of town entitled to a discount
and Zone C includes Potsdam (Ermässigungstarif) and those
and its environs. Travel between under 6 can travel for free.
the zones is simple, with tickets The One-Day Ticket (Tageskarte)
available for each combination is valid from the moment it is
of zones. validated until 3am the next
The most expensive option morning. Weekly cards (7-Tage-
is to travel by buying a single Karte) are valid for seven days, A typical single-decker bus
ticket, which is valid for 2 hours and have the added benefit of
and valid on all forms of public allowing you to travel with one
transport, including S- and extra adult and up to three Types of Bus Service
U-Bahn trains, with as children for free after There are several different bus
many changes as you 8pm on weekdays, or services operating in Berlin, but
need. Travel is allowed all hours across the all use the same ticket tariffs.
in only one direction, weekend. Regular buses are marked by
so a second ticket is Several tourist three-digit route codes and
needed for the return cards are available that operate every 20 minutes
journey. Short-trip combine public between 5am and midnight.
(Kurzstrecke) tickets are transport with discount Important routes are serviced
cheaper, but can Berlin WelcomeCard ticket entry to museums by Metro buses, marked by the
only be used for and attractions. letter M at the start of their
three stops on trains and six The Berlin Welcome Card and the route code. These operate 24
stops on buses or trams. CityTourCard are both popular hours a day, and run every 10 to
Tickets can be bought from (see p279). For information about 20 minutes. Express buses,
ticket machines at U- or S-Bahn tickets and public transport in marked by the letter X, run
stations, on board trams or general, check the BVG website, every 5 to 20 minutes.
from the bus driver. You must visit a BVG Pavilion for all The night bus service begins
validate your ticket before you transport information, or check operation after midnight and is
start your journey by inserting it the Ticket Information line. a very reliable network. These
buses are marked by the letter Tram Stop Taxis

N and tickets can be bought Every tram stop displays the Taxis are a comfortable but
direct from the driver. They appropriate tram numbers, expensive way of getting around
operate every half-hour until timetables and maps. Buses Berlin. All taxis are of the same
about 4am, when the U-Bahn sometimes also use the stops cream colour and have a big
service resumes. and are listed accordingly. “TAXI” sign on the roof. You can
easily hail one on the street or
arrange a cab by phone, through
Routes 100 and 200 Taxi Funk or Würfelfunk. You
These special routes are served Tram stop can also get a taxi from a
by double-deckers and include symbol: designated rank in popular
the most attractive parts of Haltestelle locations, such as train stations.
town. The buses operate The fare is calculated by a
between Bahnhof Zoo and meter on the driver’s dashboard.
Prenzlauer Berg, passing most Bus numbers If you are travelling 2 km
of the city’s interesting historic and names of (1 mile) or less, you can request
sights. For the price of a regular destinations the Kurzstrecke (short trip) for
bus ticket, you can visit many €4 – but only from taxis hailed in
of the locations as a more the street, and only if you inform
expensive tourist bus tour. The the driver at the start of the trip.
buses stop at Museum Island,
Unter den Linden, Brandenburg
Gate, the Reichstag, Potsdamer
Platz, the Tiergarten and Kaiser-
Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche. Public
The BVG also operates a transport map
special historic bus tour called
the Zille-Express, which makes
a 50-minute circuit around
the centre of Berlin, with
commentary in German and
English. The tour operates Timetable of
between April and October, each route A Berlin taxi with a yellow roof sign
departing from Brandenburg
Gate every hour from 10:30am to DIRECTORY
5pm. A trip costs €8 and is free
for children under the age of 10. Useful Numbers
one-third of the city, trams
remain a great way to get BVG Information
Trams around, particularly if you are (BVG-Kundendienst).
Trams (Strassenbahn) operate in travelling from Mitte to any Tel 194 49.
Mitte and the eastern parts of the part of Prenzlauer Berg. The ∑ bvg.de
city – a legacy from the city’s M10 is also a convenient route,
division, when West Berlin tore connecting Prenzlauer Berg BVG Pavilion
up its once-extensive tram to Friedrichshain. Hardenbergplatz.
network. Despite servicing only Important routes are serviced
Open 6:30am–9:30pm Mon–Fri;
by Metro trams, marked by
the letter M at the front of their 10am–5:30pm Sat & Sun.
route code. These trams run Ticket Information
every 10 or 20 minutes, 24 hours
S-Bahn Berlin
a day. Other trams operate
between 5 or 6 am and midnight, Bahnhof Alexanderplatz.
arriving every 20 minutes. Tel 29 74 33 33.
The network runs a mix of Open 6:30am–9pm Mon–Fri,
modern wheelchair-friendly
low-floor trams and old
carriages with stairs; look
for wheelchair symbols on
Taxis
timetables for guidance on Taxi Funk Berlin
which service is most suitable.
Tel 44 33 22.
Tram tickets can also be used
on buses, S- and U-Bahn trains. Würfelfunk
Modern tram operating in the former You can purchase tickets using
Tel 210 101.
East Berlin quarter machines (coin only) on board.
Travelling by U-Bahn, S-Bahn tram stops. Vending machines

stand at the entrance to each
and Regional Trains station, selling single tickets,
and one- and seven-day
While in theory Berlin has two separate train networks – travelcards and other tickets.
the U-Bahn and S-Bahn systems – in practical terms there The red or yellow validation
is not much difference between them, and commuters use machines can be found next
the same tickets for both. Strictly speaking, the U-Bahn to the ticket machines, or near
the entrance to each platform.
operates as a metro system, with most of its trains
You may notice that there
running underground, while the S-Bahn is a longer-distance are no gates to stop free-riders
commuter service. In practice, however, there is a great trying their luck on the trains,
deal of overlap between the two systems, and many but attempting to travel free
stations have both S- and U-Bahn platforms. The U-Bahn of charge can be risky. Trains
is owned by BVG and the S-Bahn by Deutsche Bahn. are patrolled by ticket
inspectors, who always work
in plain clothes. They tend
not to accept any excuses;
fines for not having a ticket
start at €40.
Signs and Trains

There’s no mistaking a
U-Bahn station, with its large
rectangular sign and trademark
white U on a blue background;
similarly for S-Bahn stations,
which have a round sign with
a large white S on a green
background. On metro maps
each line is marked by a
different colour and number.
Train arriving at a station on a U-Bahn platform The direction of the train is
noted on the train and platform,
U-Bahn confines of the city; four of which always give the final
The U-Bahn network is very them (S3, 5, 7 and 75) travel destination. When embarking,
dense, with numerous stations concurrently along the central always check both the line
very close together. Don’t line between Westkreuz and number and the final
be confused by the name – Ostkreuz. The Ring service (S41 destination of the train, as it
“underground” trains also run and S42) is a convenient way is very easy to confuse your
on elevated tracks above the to circle the city; it takes one direction. All stations have
street in some sections. During hour to travel a complete circuit. maps of the local area as
rush hours trains are very The S-Bahn has been well as maps of the entire
frequent, usually arriving plagued by problems due to metro system. Maps of the
every few minutes. There are cost-cutting over the years. network are also on view in
ten U-Bahn lines in total. The If on your journey you face the train carriages.
service closes down between delays, it’s worth noting you Train doors do not open
around 12.30am and 4am, and can use your ticket on the automatically; you must push
is replaced by night buses. large red regional trains (RE
On weekends, all lines are and RB), which stop at most
open 24 hours, except the stations on the central line
two short-line services, between Ostbahnhof and
the U4 and the U55. Zoologischer Garten.
S-Bahn Tickets
The S-Bahn is faster than the Tickets for S- and U-Bahn trains
U-Bahn, with stations spaced are the same as the tickets
further apart. Trains run every used on local buses and trams.
10 or 20 minutes, or more The Kurzstrecke (short-trip)
frequently in peak hours. There single ticket is also acceptable,
are a total of 15 S-Bahn lines, although it is only valid for A distinctive yellow-and-red train, part of
all running well beyond the three S-/U-Bahn or five bus/ the rapid transit S-Bahn rail system
USING THE U- AND S-BAHN
Speaker 1 Find the station you want

on a map and see which
line runs there. Do not forget
to make a note of the final
Microphone destination of the line so you
can be sure of travelling in
the right direction.
Emergency Map of U- and S-Bahn lines
help button (see inside back cover)
Credit
2
Information Find the type of ticket you card
require on the touchscreen.
After making your selection,
Assistance the price is displayed and you
for the can insert your coins, notes or Banknotes
disabled credit cards.
Tickets and
Information and emergency help point change
for the S-Bahn and U-Bahn
a flashing button or pull a

3 A ticket from the machine
looks different from one
bought on a bus or tram,
metal handle to open them.
but it will always contain
An alert sounds when doors information about its type
are closing and the train and price.
conductor will announce,
“Zurück bleiben!” (“Stay back”).
During the journey the next Weekly travel card and one-day travel card
station is announced inside
the carriage and information
is given on electronic screens.
Regional Trains
4 After entering the station
you must validate your
ticket in one of the red or Ticket
yellow stamping machines
Operated by Deutsche Bahn located on the platform.
(see p290), the Regional Bahn Colour-coded
and Regional Express (RB and sign for various
RE) trains service the wider S-Bahn lines
Berlin-Brandenburg region
and beyond. They are a great
way to get to Potsdam (see
5 Follow the signs to the
appropriate platform and
choose the correct side by
pp192–207) or other smaller
checking the destinations
towns near Berlin. of departing trains.
Tickets can be bought at
automatic machines on station Information board indicating the
platforms, or from ticket offices. destinations of departing trains
If travelling at the weekend
there are special offers available,
including a five-person ticket Sign indicating
that lasts all day. A normal U- where to go for
and S-Bahn ticket can be used these U-Bahn lines
to ride these trains within Berlin
– which is particularly useful
when there are delays on the
S-Bahn line.
Regional trains depart from
6 After leaving a train, proceed
to the exit, signed Ausgang.
If there are several exits, signs
only a small number of stations, will tell you the names of the
including Hauptbahnhof, streets outside, while arrows
Friedrichstrasse, Alexanderplatz, will indicate the location of A typical exit sign
Ostbahnhof, Zoologischer elevators and escalators.
Garten and Gesundbrunnen.
Getting Around by Boat village of Alt-Kladow – a great

budget option for those
The river routes of Berlin may not be as dense as those of who don’t want to pay a lot
Amsterdam or Venice, but the Spree and the Havel offer for a cruise.
more than just a pleasure cruise in the sun. An extensive
system of canals and lakes links the city centre with Trips Along the Spree
Potsdam, Spandau, Charlottenburg and the area of and Havel Rivers
Müggelsee. All kinds of water transport are available, If you want to try something a
from rowing boats to catamarans and barges. little more adventurous, there
are longer trips to choose
from, some of which cover the
western lakes as well as the
city centre. A pleasant route
takes you along the Spree, past
the Mitte district, to Treptow,
Charlottenburg and Spandau.
From here you can carry on
along the Havel river to the
Grunewald and the Wannsee,
then take a trip past Pfauen-
insel to Potsdam. To do this,
enquire at Stern und
Kreisschiffahrt. Companies
Reederei Bruno Winkler and
One of many tourist boats on the Spree river Reederei Hartmut Triebler offer
similar trips starting at
Getting Around Berlin way; the commentary is Spandau and Charlottenburg.
on the Water usually in German, but some Other options include a trip
One of the most relaxing ways companies can arrange for from Tegel port to Spandau
to spend the afternoon in Berlin an English speaker. and Wannsee, or a journey
is to take a leisurely 3- to 4-hour from Treptow to Köpenick.
journey by boat along the Spree If you really want to, you can
river and the Landwehrkanal. Public Ferries cover the whole of Berlin by
There is no shortage of In addition to the many boat, starting from Tegel in
companies offering this kind of privately operated cruises, the north and finishing at
trip. Four of the most reliable are there are also six public ferry Köpenick in the southeast,
Reederei Bruno Winkler, Stern lines that are integrated into all within 5 or 6 hours.
und Kreisschiffahrt, Reederei the public transport system.
Hartmut Triebler and Reederei These are marked by a stylized
Riedel. Each has its own dock, F and use the same tickets as Longer Journeys
but the routes they follow are trains and buses. Most of them Around Berlin
similar. You can admire the provide cross-river connections For even longer tours, you may
historic buildings of Mitte as the in locations to the east where decide to take a whole day
boat passes by the Berliner Dom there are no bridges. However, exploring the rivers, canals and
along Museum Island, before the F10 provides a particularly lakes of Berlin. From Treptow
heading off to the government charming trip from Wannsee you can take a boat to
district and the Reichstag. You (near Potsdam) to the lakeside Woltersdorf which takes you
should have a good view of the
Haus der Kulturen der Welt and
the new city in Moabit shortly
before entering the Landwehr-
kanal. This runs alongside the
Zoological Garden and new city
buildings on Potsdamer Platz,
and passes through Kreuzberg
on its way to the junction with
the Spree at Oberbaumbrücke.
Most of the boats available
along this route have enclosed
lower decks and open upper
decks, with a bar serving snacks
and drinks. All the sights are
explained by a guide along the Boat moored along the river in the summer
DIRECTORY
Boat Tours
Reederei Bruno Winkler
Mierendorffstrasse 16.
Tel 349 95 95.
∑ reedereiwinkler.de
Reederei Hartmut Triebler

Bratringweg 29.
Tel 37 15 10 52.
One of the larger boats available on the Spree
Reederei Riedel
through the charming lakeland sights that lie to the south Planufer 78.
area of Müggelsee. This region and west of Potsdam. Tel 67 96 14 70.
really is one of Berlin’s greatest ∑ reederei-riedel.de
treasures and is ideal for anyone Stern und Kreisschiffahrt
searching for a quiet place to Boat Hire
Puschkinallee 15.
relax. There are many man It is possible to charter a small Tel 536 36 00.
made beaches to choose from, boat to use for several hours
∑ sternundkreis.de
as well as summer or longer. Bootsverleih
gardens and cafés – Spreepoint, on the Weisse Flotte Potsdam
and a large white fleet shores of Müggelsee Lange Brücke 6.
of ships to show you in the east, hires motor Tel (0331) 275 92 10.
around Berlin. boats to those with the
Müggelsee is best appropriate licences, Boat Hire Companies
visited on a warm or you can find a
summer’s day, when chartered boat at the Bootsverleih Spreepoint
you can easily spend Solar Boat Pavilion in Müggelseedamm 70.
a few hours on one of Reederei Riedel Köpenick. For a trip Tel 64 11 291.
its beaches. company logo through the centre ∑ spreepoint.de
Another adventurous of the city, the Spree Solar Boat Pavilion
idea is to take a voyage along Shuttle offers private boat tours Müggelheimer Strasse 10
the Teltowkanal from Treptow of the main sights. Tel 01606 309 997.
to Potsdam. From here, Weisse Potsdam and its lakes and
Flotte Potsdam can take you rivers teem with boat rental Spree Shuttle
not only to Wannsee and the companies; check with the Lausitzer Strasse 36.
other familiar routes around Potsdam Tourismus Information Tel 611 80 01.
town, but also to Caputh, Centre (see p281) for recom ∑ spree-shuttle.de
Werder and to many other mendations and contact details.
Trips Around the City Centre

The main route for tourist boats is along
Museum Island, through the Tiergarten and
Kreuzberg. It is best to start your journey at
one of the embarkation points near
Jannowitzbrücke or Märkisches Ufer.
Sp re e
Hansabrücke
Caprivibrücke Märkisches Ufer/

Haus der Kulturen der
Jannowitzbrücke
Welt
Sp
re
e
Corneliusbrücke
L a n dw
Kottbusser
e hrkanal
Brücke
Key
Main points of embarkation 0 kilometre 1
Main route of tourist boats 0 mile 1

300  STREET FINDER
STREET FINDER
Map references given for historic buildings, sightseeing areas, historic attractions,
hotels, restaurants, bars, shops and railway stations, bus stations and the
entertainment venues refer to the maps suburban stations of the U-Bahn and S-Bahn,
in this section of the guidebook only. as well as the ferry embarkation points.
A complete index of street names and all The names of the streets and squares in the
places of interest can be found on the index and maps are given in German. The
following pages. The key map below shows word Strasse (Str.) indicates a street, Platz a
the area of Berlin covered by the Street square, Brücke a bridge and Bahnhof a
Finder. The maps include all the major railway station.
Around
Around
Kurfürstendamm
Gendarmenmarkt
lit up at night
Key
Major sight Hospital with casualty unit Scale of Maps 1–16
0 metres 200
Place of interest Police station 1:12,200
0 yards 200
Other building Tourist information
S-Bahn station Church
U-Bahn station Synagogue
Railway station Railway line
Bus station Pedestrianized street
Tram stop Autobahn (motorway)
STREET FINDER  301
Palm house in the

Botanischer Garten
Rococo Chinesisches Haus in

Park Sanssouci, Potsdam
North of the Centre
East of
e the Centre
re
Sp
Around Unter
den Linden Museum
Tiergarten Island
Kreuzberg
Modern business centre

of Potsdamer Platz
302  berlin street finder
Street Finder Index

A Anhalter Strasse 14 F1 Berliner Dom 9 B3 Burgstrasse 9 B2
Anklamer Strasse 5 C3 Berliner Ensemble 8 F2 Bürknerstrasse 16 E4
A 104 11 A5 Annenstrasse 10 D5 Berliner Strasse 11 A5, 11 C5 Büschingstrasse 10 F2
Abbestrasse 5 C3 Ansbacher Strasse 12 E3, & 11 E5
Ackerstrasse 1 A3 & 1 B4 12 F1& 12 F2 Berlin-Museum 15 A2 C
Adalbertstrasse Apostel-Paulus-Strasse 12 F5 Bernauer Strasse
16 E1 & 16 E2 Calvinstrasse 7 A2
& 13 A5 11 B3 & 1 C3
Adenauerplatz 11 A2 Cantiantrasse 2 E2
Arcostrasse 5 A3 Bernburger Strasse 14 E1
Admiralbrücke 16 D3 Caprivibrücke 5 A2
Arkonaplatz 1 C3 Berolinastrasse 10 E2
Admiralstrasse 16 D3 Carl-Herz-Ufer 15 B3 & 15 C3
Arminiusstrasse 6 E1 Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 8 F2
Agricolastrasse 6 D3 Carl-von-Ossietzky-Park 7 B2
Arndtstrasse 15 A5 Besselstrasse 15 A1
Ägyptisches Museum und Carmerstrasse 5 C5
Aschaffenburger Strasse Bethaniendamm 10 F5
Papyrus-Sammlung 4 E3 Cauerstrasse 5 B3
12 E4 & 16 E1
Ahornallee 3 B3 & 3 B5 Chamissoplatz 15 A5
Askanischer Platz 14 E1 Beusselstrasse 6 D1
Ahornstrasse 13 A2 Centrum Judaicum 9A1
Augsburger Strasse 12 E2 Beuthstrasse 9 B5
Akademie der Künste 6 F3 Charité 8 E1
Auguststrasse 9 A1 & 9 B1 Bielefelder Strasse 11 A4
Akazienallee 3 A3 & 3 B3 Charitéstrasse 8 E2
Bismarckstrasse 4 F4 & 5 B4
Akazienstrasse 13 A5 B Bissingzeile 13 C1
Charlottenburger Brücke 6 D4
Albert-Schweitzer- Platz 16 F5 Charlottenburger Ufer 4 F2
Bleibtreustrasse 5 C5, 11 B1
Babelsberger Strasse 12 E5 Charlottenstrasse 9 A3,
Albrechtstrasse 8 F2 & 11 B2
Bab-Stadtring 3 C2 6 A5 & 15 A1
Alemannenallee 3 A5 Blissestrasse 11 C5
Bachstrasse 6 E3 Chausseestrasse 8 F1
Alexanderplatz 10 D2 Blücherplatz 15 A3
Badensche Strasse 12 D5 Checkpoint Charlie 9 A5
Alexanderstrasse 10 D3 Blücherstrasse 15 A3 & 15 B4
& 12 E5 Cheruskerstrasse 13 B5
Alexanderufer 8 D1 Blumenstrasse 10 F3
Baerwaldbrücke 15 C3 Choriner Strasse 2 D4
Alexandrinenstrasse 15 B1, Blumenthalstrasse 13 C2
Baerwaldstrasse 15 B4 Christinenstrasse 2 D5
15 B2 & 15 C1 Blüthgenstrasse 11 A4
& 15 C3 Christstrasse 4 D3
Alfred-Döblin-Platz 16 D1 Bochumer Strasse 6 E2
Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse 8 F2 Claire-Waldoff-
Almstadtstrasse 9 C1 Böckstrasse 16 D3 & 16 E4
Bahnhof Zoologischer Promenade 7B1
Alte Bibliothek 9 A3 Böcklerpark 15 C3
Garten 6 E5 Claudiusstrasse 6 F2
Alte Jakobstrasse 9 C5, Böcklerstrasse 15 C3
Ballenstedter Strasse 11 A3 Clausewitzstrasse 11 A2
15 B1 & 15 B2 Bodemuseum 9 A2
Bamberger Strasse 12 E3 Corneliusstrasse 6 F5, 7 A5
Alte Nationalgalerie 9 B2 Bodestrasse 9 B3
& 12 E4 & 13 A1
Alte Schönhauser Strasse 9 C1 Bonhoefferufer 4 F2
Bandelstrasse 7 A1 Courbiérestrasse 13 A2
Alter Jüdischer 9 B2
Barbarossastrasse 12 F4 Boppstrasse 16 E4
Crellestrasse 13 B5 & 13C5
Altes Palais 9 A3
& 13 A4 Borsigstrasse 1 B5
Crusiusstrasse 3 C3
Altes Museum 9 B3
Barnimstrasse 10 E1 Bozener Strasse 12 E5
Czeminskistrasse 13 C5
Alt-Lietzow 5 A3
Barstrasse 11 B5 Brachvogelstrasse 15 B3
Alt-Moabit 6 D2, 6 E1, 6 F1, Brahestrasse 4 E1 & 4 F1
7 A2, 7 B2 & 7 C2
Bartningallee 6 F3
Brandenburger Tor 8 E3
D
Baruther Strasse 15 A3
Altonaer Strasse 6 E3 & 6 F3 Bauhaus-Archiv 13 A1 Brandenburgische Danckelmannstrasse 4 D3
Alvenslebenstrasse 13 C3 Bauhofstrasse 9 A3 Strasse 11 A3 & 11 B5 & 4 D4
Am Bahnhof 4 D3 Bautzener Platz 14 D4 Brandesstrasse 15 A2 Danziger Strasse 2 E3
Am Berlinmuseum 15 A1 Bautzener Strasse 14 D4 Branitzer Platz 3 B3 Darmstädter Strasse 11 B3
Am Festungsgraben 9 A3 Bayerische Strasse 11 B3 Brauhofstrasse 4 F3 Darwinstrasse 5 B2
Am Friedrichshain 10 F1 Bayerischer Platz 12 E5 Brecht-Weigel- Demminer Strasse 1 B2
Am Johannistisch 15 B3 Bayernallee 3 A5 Gedenkstätte 8 E1 Dennewitzstrasse
Am Karlsbad 14 D1 Bayreuther Strasse 12 F1 Bredowstrasse 6 E1 13 C3 & 14 D2
Am Köllnischen Park 10 D4 & 12 F2 Bredtschneiderstrasse 3 C5 Der Prater 2 E3
Am Kupfergraben 9 A2 Behrenstrasse 4 F3, 8 E4, 8 F4, Bregenzer Strasse 11 A2 Derfflingerstrasse 13 B1
Am Lustgarten 9 B3 & 9 A4 Breite Strasse 9 C4 Dessauer Strasse 14 E1
Am Nussbaum 9 C3 Belforter Strasse 2 E4 Breitscheidplatz 12 E1 Deutsche Bank
Am Ostbahnhof 10 F5 Bellevue 6 F3 Bremer Strasse 6 E1 KunstHalle 9 A3
Am Rathaus 12 F5 Bellevueallee 7 C4 Brienner Strasse 11 A5 Deutsche Oper Berlin 5 A4
Am Schillertheater 5 B4 Bellevuestrasse 8 D5 Bröhan-Museum 4 E3 Deutscher Dom 9 A4
Am Spreebord 5 A2 Belvedere 4 E1 Brückenstrasse 10 D4 Deutsches Technik-
Am Tempelhofer Berg 14 F5 Belziger Strasse 12 F5, Brüderstrasse 9 B4 museum Berlin 14 E2
Am Weidendamm 9 A2 13 A5 & 13 B5 Brunhildstrasse 13 C5 Deutsches Historisches
Am Zeughaus 9 B3 Bendlerbrücke 13 C1 Brunnenstrasse 1 B1 & 1 C4 Museum (Zeughaus) 9 A3
Am Zirkus 8 F2 Ben Gurion Strasse 8 D5 Budapester Strasse 12 E1 Deutsches Theater 8 E2
An der Apostelkirche 13 B2 Berchtesgardener Strasse 12 F4 Bugenhagenstrasse 6 F1 Dieffenbachstrasse 16 D3
An der Kolonnade 8 E4 Bergfriedstrasse 15 C2 Bülowstrasse 13 B2 & 13 C3 & 16 E4
An der Urania 12 F2 & 13 A1 Bergmannstrasse 14 F4, 15 A4 Bundesallee 12 D2 & 12 D4 Diplomatenviertel 6 F5,
Andreasplatz 10 F4 & 15 B5 Bundesratufer 6 E2 7 A5, 7 B5 & 7 C5
Andreasstrasse 10 F4 Bergstrasse 1 B5 Bunsenstrasse 8 E3 Dircksenstrasse 9 C2 & 10 D3
Anhalter Bahnhof 14 E1 Berlichingenstrasse 5 C1 Burggrafenstrasse 12 F1 Donaustrasse 16 F5
berlin street finder  303
Dorotheenstädtischer Fehrbelliner Platz 11 B4 Gartenstrasse 1 A4 & 1 B5 Grossbeerenstrasse 14 E4,

Friedhof 8 F1 Fehrbelliner Strasse 1 C4 Gasteiner Strasse 11 C5 14 F2 & 14 F3
Dorotheenstrasse 8 E3, Feilnerstrasse 15 B1 Gaststätte “Zur letzten Grosse Hamburger
8 F3 & 9 A3 Fernsehturm 9 C2 Instanz” 10 D3 Strasse 9 B1
Dortmunder Strasse 6 E2 Feurigstrasse 13 B5 Gaudystrasse 2 D1 Grosse Präsidentenstrasse
Dovebrücke 5 C3 Fichtestrasse 16 D4 Gedenkstätte Berliner 9 B2
Dovestrasse 5 C2 Fidicinstrasse 14 F5 & 15 A5 Mauer 1 B4 Grosse Querallee 7 C3
Drakestrasse 6 F5 Fischerinsel 9 C4 Gedenkstätte, Deutscher Grosse Sternallee 7 A4
Dreifaltigkeits- Flemingstrasse 7 B2 Widerstand 7 B5 Grosser Stern 7 A4
kirchhof II 15 B5 Flensburger Strasse 6 F2 Gedenkstätte Grosse Grosser Weg 6 F4, 7 A5
Dresdener Strasse 16 D1 Flotowstrasse 6 E3 Hamburger Strasse 9 B1 & 7 B4
& 16 D2 Flottwellstrasse 14 D2 Geibelstrasse 15 C3 Grosse-Stern-Allee 7 B5
Dresselstrasse 3 C5 Fontanepromenade 15 C4 Geisbergstrasse 12 E2 Grossgörschenstrasse 13 C4
Dreysestrasse 7 A1 Forsterstrasse 16 F4 & 12 F3 & 14 D4
Dudenstrasse 14 D5 Fraenkelufer 16 D3 Gemäldegalerie 7 C5 Grunerstrasse 9 C3
& 14 E5 Framstrasse 16 F4 Gendarmenmarkt 9 A4 Grunewaldstrasse 12 E5,
Duisburger Strasse 11 A2 Genthiner Strasse 13 B1 12 F4 & 13 A4
Frankenallee 3 A5
Dunckerstrasse 2 F2 Georgenkirchstrasse 10 E1 Guerickestrasse 5 B3 & 5 C3
Frankenstrasse 13 A4
Düsseldorfer Strasse Georgenstrasse 8 F3 & 9 A3 Güntzelstrasse 11 C4 & 12 D4
Franklinstrasse 5 C3
11A3, 11B3, & 11C3 George-Grosz- Gustav-Böss-Strasse 9 C3
Franziskaner
Platz 11 B2 Gustav-Meyer-Allee 1 A2
Klosterkirche 10 D3
E Franz-Klühs-Strasse 15 A2 Gerdauer Strasse 12 D5 Gutenbergstrasse 4 D3
Franz-Künstler- Gerhardtstrasse 7 B2
Ebereschenallee 3 A3
Strasse 15 B2 Gerichtslaube 9 C3 H
& 3 B4
Französische Strasse 8 F4 Gethsemanekirche 2 E1
Habermannplatz 11 B5
Eberswalder Strasse 2 D2
& 9 A4 Getraudenbrücke 9 B4
Habsburgerstrasse 13 A3
Ebertstrasse 8 E3, 8 E4
Französischer Dom 9 A4 Gertraudenstrasse 9 C4 Hackesche Höfe 9 B2
Eichenallee 3 A3 & 3 B4
Fraunhoferstrasse 5 B4 Geschwister-Scholl- Hackescher Markt 9 B2
Eichendorffstrasse 1 A5
Fredericiastrasse 3 C4 & 3 C5 Strasse 9 A2 Haeselerstrasse 3 C4
Einemstrasse 13 A1 & 13 A2
Freiligrathstrasse 15 C4 Gesslerstrasse 13 C5 Hafenplatz 14 E1
Einsteinufer 5 C3 & 6 D4
Freisinger Strasse 12 F4 Gierkeplatz 4 F3 Hagelberger Strasse 14 E4
Eisenacher Strasse 13 A2,
Friedrich-List-Ufer 8 D1 Gierkezeile 4 F3 & 4 F4 Hallerstrasse 5 C2
13 A4 & 13 A5
Friedenstrasse 10 F1, 10 F3, Giesebrechtstrasse 11 A2 Hallesche Strasse 14 F2
Eisenbahnstrasse 16 F2
16 F4 & 16 F5 Gieselerstrasse 11 B4 Hallesches Ufer 14 E2 & 14 F2
Eislebener Strasse 12 E2
Friedhof Wilmersdorf 11 A5 Gipsstrasse 9 B1 Hallesche-Tor-Brücke 15 A3
Elberfelder Strasse 6 E2
Friedhöfe vor dem Gitschiner Strasse 15 A2 Halmstrasse 3 A4
Elssholzstrasse 13 B4
Halleschen Tor 15 A3 & 15 C2 Hamburger Bahnhof 8 D1
Emdener Strasse 6 D1
Friedrichsgracht 9 B4 Gleditschstrasse 13 A3 Hammarskjöldplatz 3 B5
Emser Platz 11 B4
Friedrichshain 10 F3 & 13 B4 Händelallee 6 E4 & 6 F3
Emser Strasse 11 B4 & 11 C2
Friedrichstadtpassagen 8 F4 Gleimstrasse 1 C1 & 2 D1 Hannoversche Strasse
Enckestrasse 15 A1
Friedrichstadtpalast 8 F2 Glinkastrasse 8 F3, 8 F5 8 E1 & 8 F1
Engeldamm 10 F5 & 16 E1
Friedrichstrasse 8 F1, 8 F3, Gneisenaustrasse 15 A4 Hansa-Ufer 6 E3
Englische Strasse 6 D4
8 F4, 9 A5 & 15 A1 & 15 B4 Hansabrücke 6 E3
Englischer Garten 7 A3
Friedrichswerdersche- Gneiststrasse 2 E2 Hansaplatz 6 F3
Eosanderstrasse 4 F3
Kirche 9 A3 Goebenstrasse 13 C3 Hansaviertel 6 E3 & 6 F3
Ephraim-Palais 9 C3 & 9 C4
Friedrichswerderscher- Goethestrasse 5 A5, 5 B5 Hanseatenweg 6 F3
Epiphanienweg 3 C4
Kirchhof 15 B5 & 5 C5 Hardenbergplatz 6 E5
Erasmusstrasse 5 C1
Friesenstrasse 15 A5 Goldfischteich 8 D4 Hardenbergstrasse 5 C5
Erdmannstrasse 13 B5
Fritschestrasse 4 F4 & 4 F5 Golssener Strasse 15 B5 & 12 D1
Erkelenzdamm 16 D2
Fritz-Schloss-Park 5 B1 Goltzstrasse 13 A3 & 13 A4 Harlingeroder Weg 5 A2
& 16 D3
Frobenstrasse 13 B2 & 13 B3 Gontardstrasse 9 C2 Hasenheide 15 C5 & 16 E5
Ermeler-Haus 9 C4
Fuggerstrasse 12 F2 & 13 A2 Gormannstrasse 9 C1 Haubachstrasse 4 F4
Ernst-Bumm-Weg 4 D3
Fürbringerstrasse 15 A4 Goslarer Platz 5 B1 Hauptstrasse 13 B5
Ernst-Reuter-Platz 5 C4
Fürstenbrunner Weg 3 B1 Goslarer Ufer 5 B1 & 5 B2 Haus am Checkpoint
Eschenallee 3 A3 & 3 A4
& 3 C2 Gossowstrasse 12 F3 Charlie 14 F1
Essener Strasse 6 E2
Fürstenplatz 3 A4 Gothaer Strasse 12 F5 Haus der Kulturen
Ettaler Strasse 12 E2
Fürstenwalder Strasse 10 F3 Gottfried-Keller- der Welt 7 C3
Europa-Center 12 E1
Fürther Strasse 12 E2
Strasse 3 B4 Hausvogteiplatz 9 A4
Eylauer Strasse 14 D5
Gotzkowskybrücke 6 D2 Hebbelstrasse 4 F4
F G Gotzkowskystrasse 6 D1 Hedemannstrasse 14 F1
Graefestrasse 16 D4 & 16 E3 Heerstrasse 3 A5
Fabriciusstrasse 4 F1 Galgenhaus 9 B4 Grainauer Strasse 12 E3 Hegelplatz 9 A3
Fanny-Hensel-Weg 14 E1 Galerie der Romantik 4 F2 Greifenhagener Heidestrasse 8 D1
Fasanenstrasse 6 D5, 11 C3, Galeries Lafayette 8 F4 Strasse 2 E1 Heilbronner Strasse 12 E4
12 D1 & 12 D2 Galvanistrasse 5 B3 Grimmstrasse 16 D4 Heiliggeistkapelle 9 B2
Fauler See 6 F4 Gardes-du-Corps- Grolmanstrasse 5 C5 & 11 C1 Heimstrasse 15 A5
Fechnerstrasse 11 C5 Strasse 4 D3 Grossbeerenbrücke 14 F2 Heinrich-Heine-Platz 16 D1
304  BERLIN STREET FINDER
Heimstrasse 15 A5 J Kesselsdorfstrasse 13 C5 Kottbusser Damm 16 E4

Heinrich-Heine- Jacobystrasse 10 E3 Kielganstrasse 13 B2 Kottbusser Strasse 16 E3
Strasse 10 D5 & 16 D1 Jägerstrasse 8 F4 & 9 A4 Kirchbachstrasse 13 C3 Krausenstrasse 8 F5, 9 A5
Heinrich-Roller-Strasse 2 F5 Jagowstrasse 6 D3 & 6 E2 Kirchhof Jerusalem & 9 B5
Heinrichplatz 16 E2 Jahnstrasse 16 E5 Strasse 15 B5 Krausnickstrasse 9 B1
Heinrich-von-Kleist- Jakobikirchstrasse 15 C1 Kirchhof Luisenstadt I 15 C5 Krautstrasse 10 F3 & 10 F4
Park 13 B4 Jannowitzbrücke 10 E4 Kirchstrasse 7 A2 Krefelder Strasse 6 E2
Heisenbergstrasse 5 C2 Jebensstrasse 6 D5 Kirschenallee 3 A3 Kreuzbergstrasse 14 D5
Helgoländer Ufer 7 A2 Jenaer Strasse 12 E4 Klarenbachstrasse 5 B1 & 14 F4
Helmholtzstrasse 5 C2 Jerusalemer Strasse 9 A4 & Klausenerplatz 4 D3 Kronenstrasse 8 F5 & 9 A5
Helmstedter Strasse 12 E4 9 B5 Klaus-Groth-Strasse 3 B4 Kronprinzenbrücke 8 D2
Helmstrasse 13 B5 Joachimstaler Strasse 12 D2 Klaustaler Strasse 5 B2 Kronprinzenpalais 9 A3
Herbartstrasse 4 D5 Joachimstaler Platz 12 D1 Kleinbeerenstrasse 14 E2 Krumme Strasse 5 A4, 5A5
Herbertstrasse 13 B5 Joachimstrasse 9 B1 Kleine Alexanderstrasse 10 D1 & 11 A1
Herderstrasse 5 B5 Johannisstrasse 8 F2 & 9 A2 Kleine Andreasstrasse 10 F4 Kucharskistrasse 5 C2
Herkulesbrücke 13 A1 Johanniterstrasse 15 B3 Kleine Auguststrasse 9 B1 Kufsteiner Strasse 12 E5
Hermannplatz 16 E5 John-F-Kennedy-Platz 12 F5 Kleine Markusstrasse 10 F4 Kulmbacher Strasse 12 E3
Hermannstrasse 16 E5 John-Foster-Dulles-Allee Kleine Hamburger Kulmer Strasse 13 C3 & 13 C4
Herschelstrasse 4 F1 7 C3
Strasse 9 A1 Kulturbrauerei 2 E3
Hertzallee 6 D5 Jonasstrasse 6 E1
Kleine Parkstrasse 14 F4 Kunstgewerbemuseum 7 C5
Hessische Strasse 8 E1 Jüdenstrasse 9 C3
Kleine Präsidentenstrasse Kunstbibliothek 7 C5
Heubnerweg 4 D2 9 C1 Kurfürstendamm 11 A2
Jüdisches Gemeindehaus
Hildebrandstrasse 7 B5 12 D1
Kleine Rosenthaler & 12 D1
Hinter dem Giesshaus 9 A3 Jüdisches Museum 15 B2
Strasse 9 B1 Kurfürstenstrasse 12 F1,
Hiroshimastrasse 7 B5 Jüterboger Strasse 15 B5
Kleiner Stern 7 B4 13 A1, 13 B2 & 13 C2
Hirtenstrasse 9 C1 Kleiner Tiergarten 6 F1 Kurmärkische Strasse 13 B2
Kleiststrasse 12 F2 & 13 A2
Historischer Hafen K Kurstrasse 9 B4
Berlin 10 D4 Klingelhöferstrasse 7 A5 Kyffhäuserstrasse 13 A4
Hitzigallee 7 C5 & 13 C1 KaDeWe 12 F2 Klinikum Virchow 4 D2
Hobrechtbrücke 16 F3 Kaiserdamm 3 B5 & 4 E5 Klixstrasse 13 A5 L
Hobrechtstrasse 16 F4
Kaiser-Friedrich-Strasse 4 F4 Kloedenstrasse 15 A5
& 4 F5 Klopstockstrasse 6 E3 Lachmannstrasse 16 E4
& 16 F5
Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee Klosterstrasse 10 D3 Ladenstrasse 8 D1
Hochkirchstrasse 14 D4
5 A1 & 5 C1 Kluckstrasse 13 B1 & 13 C1 Länderallee 3 A4
Hochschule der Künste 6 D5
Kaiserin-Augusta-Brücke 5 B1 Knaackstrasse 2 E3 Landgrafenstrasse 13 A1
Höchste Strasse 10 F1
Kaiser-Wilhelm- Knesebeckstrasse 5 C5 Landhausstrasse 12 D4
Hofjägerallee 7 A4
Gedächtniskirche 12 D1 & 11 C1 & 12 D5
Hohenfriedbergstrasse 13 C5
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Platz 13 B5 Knobelsdorffstrasse 3 C4 Landsberger Allee 10 F2
Hohenstaufenplatz 16 E4
Kalckreuthstrasse 13 A2 & 4 E4 Landshuter Strasse 12 E4
Hohenstaufenstrasse 12 F3
Kalischer Strasse 11 A5 Knoblauchhaus 9 C3 Landwehrkanal 13 B1
& 13 A3
Kalkscheunenstrasse 8 F2 Köbisstrasse 7 A5 Lange Strasse 10 F4
Hohenzollerndamm 11 A4
Kamminer Strasse 4 F1 Kochstrasse 9 A5, 14 F1 Langenscheidtstrasse 13 B4
& 11 C4
& 4 F2 & 15 A1 Langobardenallee 3 B5
Hohenzollernplatz 11 C3
Kantstrasse 4 E5, 11 A1 Kohlfurter Strasse 16 D3 Lapidarium 14 E2
Hölderlinstrasse 3 B5
& 12 D1 Kohlrauschstrasse 5 B3 Lausitzer Platz 16 F2
Hollmannstrasse 15 A2
Kapelleufer 8 D2 Kolonie Gerickeshof 5 A1 Lausitzer Strasse 16 F3
Holsteinische Strasse 11 C4
Karl-August-Platz 5 A5 Kolonie Golfplatz 3 A2 Leberstrasse 13 B5
Holsteiner Ufer 6 F2
Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse Kollatzstrasse 3 C3 Legiendamm 10 E5 & 16 D1
Holzmarktstrasse 10 E4
9 C3, 10 D1 Kollwitzplatz 2 E3 Lehrter Stadtbahnhof 7 C1
& 10 F5
Karl-Marx-Allee 10 E3 Kollwitzstrasse 2 E4 Lehrter Strasse 7 C1
Hornstrasse 14 E3
Karl-Marx-Strasse 16 F5 Kolonnenstrasse 13 B5 Leibnizstrasse 5 B4, 5 B5,
Horstweg 4 D4 & 4 E4
Karlplatz 8 E2 Komische Oper 8 F3 11 B1 & 11 B2
Hotel Adlon Kempinski 8 E4
Karl-Schrader-Strasse 13 A4 Kommandantenstrasse Leipziger Platz 8 E5
Humboldt-Hafen 8 D1
Karolingerplatz 2 A5 9 B5 & 15 C1 Leipziger Strasse 8 F5 & 9 A5
Humboldt-Universität 9 A3
Karpfenteich 4 E1 Königin-Elisabeth- Leistikowstrasse 3 A4
Husemannstrasse 2 F3
Kastanienallee Strasse 3 C4 Lenaustrasse 16 F4
Hussitennstrasse 1 A2
2 D4, 3 A5 & 3 B3 Konstanzer Strasse Lennéstrasse 8 D4
Huttenstrasse 5 B1, C1
Katharina-Heinroth-Ufer 6 F5 11 A3 & 11 A4 Leon-Jessel-Platz 11 B4
Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum 11 C2 Kopenhagenerstrasse 2 D1 Lerschpfad 3 C3
I Katzbachstrasse 14 E4 & Köpenicker Strasse Lesser-Ury-Weg 7 C1
Iburger Ufer 5 A2 14 E5 10 D5, 10 F5 & 16 F1 Lessingbrücke 6 F2
Ifflandstrasse 10 E3 Katzlerstrasse 13 C4 Kopischstrasse 14 F5 Lessingstrasse 6 F2
Immanuelkirchstrasse 2 F4 Kaubstrasse 11 A5 Koppenplatz 9 B1 Lettestrasse 2 F2
Innsbrucker Strasse 12 E5 Keibelstrasse 10 D2 Körnerstrasse 13 C2 Leuschnerdamm 16 D1
Inselstrasse 10 D4 Keithstrasse 12 F1 Körtestrasse 15 C4 Levetzowstrasse 6 E2
Invalidenstrasse Kelheimer Strasse 12 E2 Köthener Strasse 8 E5 Liberdastrasse 16 F4
1 B5, 7 C2 & 8 E1 Kemperplatz 8 D5 & 14 E1 Lichtenberger Strasse 10 F3
lsenburger Strasse 5 A1 Keplerstrasse 4 F1 Kottbusser Brücke 16 E3 & 10 F4
Liberdastrasse 16 F4 Marienburger Strasse 2 F4 Moritzstrasse 15 C2 Nikolsburger Platz 12 D4

Lichtenberger Strasse 10 F3 Marienkirche 9 C3 Morsestrasse 5 C2 Nikolsburger Strasse 12 D3
& 10 F4 Marienstrasse 8 E2 Motzstrasse 12 E3 & 13 A2 Nithackstrasse 4 E3
Lichtensteinbrücke 6 F5 Markgrafenstrasse 9 A4, Mühlendamm 9 C4 Nollendorfplatz 13 A2
Lietzenburger Strasse 11 C2 9 A5 & 15 A1 Mulackstrasse 9 C1 Nollendorfstrasse 13 A3
& 12 D2 Märkischer Platz 10 D4 Müllenhoffstrasse 16 D4 & 13 B2
Lietzensee 4 D5 Märkisches Ufer 9 C4 Müller-Breslau-Strasse 6 D4 Nordhauser Strasse 4 F1
Lietzenseeufer 4 D5 & 10 D4 Münchener Strasse 12 F4 & 5 A1
Lilienthalstrasse 15 C5
Märkisches Museum 10 D4 & 12 F5 Nördlinger Strasse 12 E4
Marschallbrücke 8 E3
Nordsternstrasse 12 F5
Lindauer Strasse 13 A3 Münstersche Strasse 11 A3
Marstall 9 B3
Lindenallee 3 B3 & 3 B4 Münzstrasse 9 C2 Nostitzstrasse 15 A4
Martin-Gropius-Bau 14 E1
Lindenstrasse 9 B5, 15 A1 Museum für Naturkunde Novalisstrasse 8 F1
Martin-Luther-Strasse 12 F3
& 15 A2 8 E1 Nürnberger Platz 12 E2
& 12 F4
Linienstrasse 8 F1, 9 A1, 9 B1, Museum für Post und Nürnberger Strasse 12 E1
Marx-Engels-Forum 9 C3
9 C1 & 10 D1 Kommunikation 8 F7 & 12 E2
Masurenallee 3 B5
Lise-Meitner-Strasse 5 A1 Matthäikirchplatz 7 C5 Museum für Vor- und Nussbaumallee 3 A3 & 3 B3
Littenstrasse 10 D3 Matthäikirchstrasse 7 C5 Frühgeschichte 4 E2
Lobeckstrasse 15 B2 & 15 C1 Mauerstrasse 8 F4 & 8 F5 Museumstrasse 9 B3 O
Lohmeyerstrasse 4 F3 Mausoleum 4 E2 Musikinstrumenten-
Obentrautstrasse 14 E3
Lortzingstrasse 1 B2 Max-Beer-Strasse 9 C1 museum 8 D5
& 14 F3
Los-Angeles-Platz 12 E2 Maxim-Gorki-Theater 9 A3 Muskauer Strasse 16 F1
Oberwallstrasse 9 A4
Loschmidtstrasse 5 B3 Maybachufer 16 E3 & 16 F4
Oberwasserstrasse 9 B4
Lottumstrasse 2 D5 Meerscheidtstrasse 3 C5 N Oderberger Strasse 2 D3
Lübecker Strasse 6 F1 Mehlitzstrasse 11 C5
Mehringbrücke 14 F2 Nachodstrasse 12 D3 Ohlauer Strasse 16 F3
Luckauer Strasse 16 D1
Ohmstrasse 10 D4
Mehringdamm 14 F3 & 14 F5 Nansenstrasse 16 F4
Luckenwalder Strasse 14 D2 Olbersstrasse 4 F1
Mehringplatz 15 A2 Nassauische Strasse
Lüdtgeweg 5 A3 Oldenburger Strasse 6 E1
Meierottostrasse 12 D3 11 C4 & 11 C5
Ludwig-Erhard-Haus 6 D5 Olivaer Platz 11 B2
Meinekestrasse 12 D2 Naumannstrasse 13 C5
Ludwigkirchstrasse 11 C2 Oranienplatz 16 D2
Meininger Strasse 12 F5 Naunynstrasse 16 E2 & 16 F2
Luisenkirche 4 F3
Melanchthonstrasse 7 A2 Oranienburger Strasse 8 F1,
Neben dem Kirchhof 15 C5
Luisenkirchhof I 5 B3 Melchiorstrasse 16 E1 9 A2 & 9 B2
Nehringstrasse 4 E4
Luisenkirchhof II 3 C4 Memhardstrasse 10 D2 Oranienburger Tor 8 F1
Nelly-Sachs-Park 13 C3
Luisenkirchhof III 3 B2 Mend.-Bartholdy-Park 14 E1 Oranienstrasse 15 B1, 16 D1
Neptunbrunne 9 C3
Luisenplatz 4 E3 Mendelssohnstrasse 10 E1 & 16 E2
Neue Blumenstrasse 10 E3
Luisenstrasse 8 E1 & 8 E2 Meraner Strasse 12 E5 Osnabrücker Strasse 4 F1
Neue Christstrasse 4 E3
Luitpoldstrasse 12 F3 & Merowingerweg 3 A5 Otto-Braun-Strasse 10 E1
Neue Grünstrasse 9 C5
12 A3 Merseburger Strasse 13 A5 Otto-Dix-Strasse 7 B1
Neue Jakobstrasse 10 D5
Lüneburger Strasse 7 A3 & 7 B3 Messedamm 3 C5
Otto-Grüneberg-Weg 4 E4
Methfesselstrasse 14 F5 Neue Kirche IV 15 B5
Lustgarten 9 B3 Ottoplatz 6 E1
Metropol-Theater 8 F2 Neue Kulmer Strasse 13 C4
Lutherbrücke 7 B3 Ottostrasse 6 E1
Metzer Strasse 2 E5 Neue Nationalgalerie 7 C5
Lützowplatz 13 A1 Otto-Suhr-Allee 4 F3 & 5 A4
Michaelkirchplatz 10 E5 & 13 C1
Lützowstrasse 13 B1 & 13 C1 Otto-von-Bismarck-Allee
& 16 E1 Neue Promenade 9 B2
Lützowufer 13 A1 & 13 B1 8 D2
Michaelkirchstrasse 10 E5 Neue Ross Strasse 9 C5
Lychenerstrasse 2 F2
Mierendorffplatz 4 F1 Neue Schönhauser Strasse
Mierendorffstrasse 4 F2 9 C2 P
M Mindener Strasse 4 F1 Neue Synagoge 9 A1 Paderborner Strasse 11 A3
Maassenstrasse 13 A2 Mittelstrasse 8 F3 Neue Wache 9 A3 Palais am Festungsgraben
Mackensenstrasse 13 B2 Mittenwalder Strasse 15 A4 Neue Weberstrasse 10 F3 9 A3
Magazinstrasse 10 E3 & 15 B3 Neuenburger Strasse 15 B2 Palais Gaststätter 10 D3
Magdeburger Platz 13 B1 Moabiter Brücke 7 A2 Neuer Flügel (Schloss Palais Podewils 10 D3
Maienstrasse 13 A2
Möckernbrücke 14 E2
Charlottenburg) 4 E2 Palast der Republik 9 B3
Möckernstrasse 14 E2, 14 E3
Manitiusstrasse 16 F4 Neuer Pavillon 4 F2 Palais Schwerin und
& 14 E4
Mannheimer Strasse 11 B5 Neuer See 6 F4 Münze 9 C4
Mohrenkolonnaden 8 F5
Mansfelder Strasse Neues Ufer 5 B1 Palisadenstrasse 10 F2
Mohrenstrasse 8 F4 & 9 A4
11 A4 & 11 B5
Molkenmarkt 9 C3
Neues Museum 9 B3 Pallasstrasse 13 B3
Mansteinstrasse 13 C4 Mollstrasse 10 D1 & 10 E2 Neufertstrasse 4 E3 Pannierstrasse 16 F5
Manteuffelstrasse 16 E3, Mollwitzstrasse 4 D2 Neumannsgasse 9 B4 Pappelallee 2 E2 & 2 F1
16 F1 & 16 F2 Moltkebrücke 7 C2 Neustädtische Kirch- Pariser Platz 8 E3
Marburger Strasse 12 E1 Moltkestrasse 8 D2 strasse 8 F3 Pariser Strasse 11 B2 & 11 C3
Marchbrücke 5 C3 Mommsenstrasse Nicolai Haus 9 B4 Parochialkirche 10 D3
Marchstrasse 5 C4 11 A1 & 11 B1 Niebuhrstrasse 11 A1 & 11 B1 Parochialstrasse 10 D3
Marheinekeplatz 15 A5 Monbijoupark 9 B2 Niederkirchner Pascalstrasse 5 C2
Mariannenplatz 16 F1 Monbijouplatz 9 B2 Strasse 8 E5 Passauer Strasse 12 E2
Mariannenstrasse 16 E2 Monbijoustrasse 9 A2 Niederlagstrasse 9 B3 Paulinen Krankenhaus 3 A4
& 16 E3 Monumentenstrasse 13 C5 Niederwallstrasse 9 B4 Paul-Lincke-Ufer 16 E3
Marie-Elisabeth-Lüders- & 13 D5 Nikolaikirche 9 C3 & 16 F4
Strasse 5 B4 Moritzplatz 15 C1 Nikolaiviertel 9 C3 Paul-Löbe-Allee 8 D3
306  berlin street finder
Paulsborner Strasse 11 A2 Regierungsviertel 8 D2 Schadowstrasse 8 F3 Solinger Strasse 6 E3

Paulstrasse 7 B2 Reichenberger Strasse Schaperstrasse 12 D2 Solmsstrasse 15 A4
Penzberger Strasse 12 F4 16 D2, 16 E3 & 16 F2 Scharounstrasse 8 D5 Sömmeringstrasse 5 A2
Pergamonmuseum 9 A2 Reichpietschufer 7 B5, Scharrenstrasse 9 B4 Sonnenallee 16 F5
Pestalozzistrasse 4 E5, 4 F5, 13 B1 & 14 D1 Schauspielhaus 9 A4 Soorstrasse 3 B4, 3 C3
5 A5 & 5 B5 Reichsstrasse 3 A4 Scheidemannstrasse 8 D3 & 1 C5
Petriplatz 9 B4 Reichstag 8 E3 Schlemannstrasse 2 F2 Sophie-Charlotte-Platz
Pfalzburger Strasse Reichstagufer 8 D2 & 8 F3 Schen Park 10 D4 4 E4
11 C2, 11 C3 & 11 C4 Reinhardtstrasse 8 E2 & 8 F2 Schendelgasse 9 C1 Sophie-Charlotten-
Pflügerstrasse 16 F4 Reiterdenkmal des Schicklerstrasse 10 D3 Strasse 4 D2, 4 D3 & 4 D4
Philharmonie und Grossen Kufürsten 4 E2 Schiffbauerdamm 8 E2 Sophienkirche 9 B1
Kammermusiksaal 8 D5 Reiterdenkmal Friedrichs & 8 F3 Sophienstrasse 9 B1
Philippistrasse 4 D4 des Grossen 9 A3 Schillerstrasse 4 F5 & 5 A5 Sowjetisches
Philippstrasse 8 E1 Reuchlinstrasse 5 C1 Schillingstrasse 10 E3 Ehrenmal 8 D3
Planckstrasse 8 F2 & 9 A3 Reuterplatz 16 F5 Schillstrasse 13 A1 Spandauer Damm 3 A2,
Planufer 16 D3 Reuterstrasse 16 F4 & 16 F5 Schinkestrasse 16 E3 3 C3 & 4 E3
Platanenallee 3 A4 & 3 B4 Rheinsberger Strasse 1 C3 Schleiermacherstrasse 15 B4 Spandauer Strasse 9 B2,
Platz der Republik 8 D3 Ribbeck Haus 9 C3 Schlesingerstrasse 5 C2 9 C3
Platz der Vereinten Richard-Wagner-Platz 5 A3 Schleswiger Ufer 6 E3 Spenerstrasse 7 A2
Nationen 10 F2 Richard-Wagner-Strasse 5 A4 Schleusenbrücke 9 B3 Speyerer Strasse 12 F4
Platz des 18 März 1848 8 E3 Riehlstrasse 4 D5 Schloss Bellevue 7 A3 Spichernstrasse 12 D3
Platz vor dem Neuen Riehmers Hofgarten 9 A3 Schloss Charlottenburg 4 E2 Spielhagenstrasse 4 F4
Tor 8 E1 Riemannstrasse 15 A4 Schlossbrücke 4 F2 & 9 B3 Spittelkolonnaden 9 B5
Pohlstrasse 13 B2 & 13 C2 Ritterstrasse 15 B1, 15 C1, Schlossgarten 4 E2 Spittelmarkt 9 B5
Pommernallee 3 A5 & 16 D2 Schlosspark Klinik 4 D2 Sportplätze Westend 3 B1
Pommersche Strasse 11 B3 Robert-Koch-Platz 8 E1 Schlossplatz 9 B3 Spreeufer 9 C3
Postmuseum 8 F5 Rochstrasse 9 C2 Schlossstrasse 2 E3 & 4 E4 Spreewaldplatz 16 F3
Poststrasse 9 C3 Rognitzstrasse 3 C5 Schlüterstrasse 5 B5, Spreeweg 7 A3
Potsdamer Brücke 13 C1 Rolandufer 10 D4 11 B1 & 11 B2 Spremberger Strasse 16 E4
Potsdamer Platz 8 E5 Röntgenbrücke 5 B2 Schmidstrasse 10 D5 Sredzkistrasse 2 E3
Potsdamer Strasse 8 D5, Röntgenstrasse 5 B3 Schöneberg 13 A5 St-Georgen-Kirchhof 10 E1
13 B3 & 13 C2 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 9 D1 Schöneberger Strasse 14 E1 St-Hedwigs-
Prager Platz 12 D4 Rosa-Luxemburg- Schöneberger Ufer 13 C1 Kathedrale 9 A4
Prager Strasse 12 D3 Strasse 9 C1 & 14 D1 St-Marien-Kirchhof 10 E1
Prenzlauer Allee 10 D1 Rosenheimer Strasse 12 F4 Schönhauser Allee 16 E4 St-Matthäus-Kirche 7 C5
Prenzlauer Berg 10 E1 & 13 A4 & 2 E3 St Matthäus-Kirchhof I 13 C4
Preussenpark 11 A4 Rosenstrasse 9 C2 Schönleinstrasse 16 E4 Staatsbibliothek 8 D5
Preussischer Landtag 9 A5 Schulze-Delitzsch- Platz 10 D5 & 14 D1
Rosenthaler Strasse 9 B1
Prinzenstrasse 15 C2 & 15 C3 Schumannstrasse 8 E2 Staatsbibliothek
Rostocker Strasse 5 C1
Prinzessinnenstrasse 16 D2 Schustehrusstrasse 4 E3 Unter den Linden 9 A3
Rotes Rathaus 9 C3
Prinzregentenstrasse 12 D4 & 4 F3 Staatsoper Unter den
Rückerstrasse 9 C1
& 12 D5 Schützenstrasse 9 A5 & 9 B5 Linden 9 A3
Rückertstrasse 4 F5
Pritzwalker Strasse 7 A1 Schwäbische Strasse 12 F4 Stadtgericht Mitte 10 D3
Rudolf-Wissell-Brücke 3 C1
Propststrasse 9 C3 & 13 A4 Stadtmauer 10 D3
Rudi-Dutschke- Strasse 9 A5
Pücklerstrasse 16 F2 Schwedter Strasse 2 D3 Stallschreiberstrasse 9 C5
Rügener Strasse 1 B1
Pulsstrasse 4 D2 & 2 D4 & 15 C1
Ruhlsdorfer Strasse 14 F3
Puttkamerstrasse 14 F1 Schwerinstrasse 13 B3 Stallstrasse 4 E3
Ruhrstrasse 11 A4
Schwiebusser Strasse 14 F5 Standortfriedh of
Ruhwaldweg 3 A1
Q Rungestrasse 10 D4
& 15 A5 Lilienthalstrasse 15 C5
Sebastianstrasse 9 C5, Stargarder Strasse 72 F1
Quedlinburger Strasse 5 A2 & 10 E4
15 C1 & 16 D1 Stauffenbergstrasse 7 C5
Ruppiner Strasse 1 C3
Seelingstrasse 4 E4 Steifensandstrasse 4 E5
R Russische Botschaft 8 F4
Segitzdamm 16 D2 & 16 D3 Steinmetzstrasse 13 C2
Rüsternallee 3 A4
Raabestrasse 1 B1 Senefelderstrasse 2 F2 & 13 C4
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Ramierstrasse 14 F1 Sesenheimer Strasse 5 A5 Steinplatz 5 C5
Rykestrasse 2 F3
Rankeplatz 12 D2 Seydelstrasse 9 B5, Steinstrasse 9 C1
Seydlitzstrasse Stormstrasse 3 A4
Rankestrasse 12 D2 & 12 E1
Rathaus Charlottenburg 5 A3
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Rathaus Kreuzberg 14 F3 Saarbrücker Strasse 10 D1 Siegessäule 7 A4 Stralsunderstrasse 1 B3
Rathaus Schöneberg 12 F5 Sächsische Strasse 11 B2 Siegmunds Hof 6 E3 Strassburger Strasse 10 D1
Rathaus Tiergarten 6 E1 & 11 B4 Siemensstadt- Strasse 244 5 C2
Rathaus Wilmersdorf 11 B4 Saldernstrasse 4 D4 Fürstenbrunner 3 A1 Strasse des 17. Juni 5 C4,
Rathausstrasse 9 C3 Salzburger Strasse 12 F5 Sigismundstrasse 7 C5 5 F4, 7 A4 & 8 D3
Rathenower Strasse 7 B1 Salzufer 5 C3, 6 D3 & 6 D4 Sigmaringer Strasse 11 B4 Strausberger Platz 10 F3
Rauchstrasse 6 F5 & 7 A5 Sammlung Berggruen 4 E3 Singerstrasse 10 E3 & 10 F4 Strausberger Strasse 10 F2
Raumerstrasse 2 F2 Sanderstrasse 16 F4 Skalitzer Strasse 16 D2 Strelitzer Strasse 1 B4
Ravensberger Strasse 11 A3 Sandkrugbrücke 8 D1 & 16 F2 Stresemannstrasse 8 E5
Regensburger Strasse 12 E3 Savignyplatz 11 B1 & 11 C1 Skirenweg 3 A5 Stromstrasse 6 F1 & 6 F2
Stübbenstrasse 12 E4 U Wassergasse 10 D4 Wintersteinstrasse 5 A3,

& 12 E5 Wassertorplatz 16 D2 12 F3, 13 A3 & 13 B3
Ubierstrasse 3 A5
Stülerstrasse 7 A5 Wassertorstrasse 15 C2 Wissmannstrasse 16 E5
Uhlandstrasse 5 C5, 11 C1,
Stülpnagelstrasse 3 C5 Wasserturm 2 F4 Wittelsbacherstrasse 11 A3
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Waterloobrücke 15 B3 Wittenbergplatz 12 F2
Suaresstrasse 4 E5 Ulmenallee 3 A3 & B3
Waterlooufer 15 A3 Witzleben 3 C5
Südstern 15 C4 Universitätsstrasse 9 A3
Wattstrasse 1 B3 Witzlebenplatz 6 E5
Swinemünder Brücke 1 B1 Unter den Linden 8 F3
Wegenerstrasse 11 B4 Witzlebenstrasse 4 E5
Swinemünder Strasse 1 C3 & 9 A3
Weimarer Strasse 5 A5 Wolliner Strasse 2 D3
Sybelstrasse 11 A2 Unterbaumstrasse 8 E2
Weinbergsweg 1 C5 Wörther Strasse 2 E4
Synagogue Rykestrasse Unterwasserstrasse 9 B4
Weinmeisterstrasse 9 C1 Wrangelstrasse 15 F1
12 F4 Urbanhafen 15 C3
Weinstrasse 10 F1 Wulfsheinstrasse 4 E3
Urbanstrasse 15 B3,
T 16 D4 & 16 E5 Welserstrasse 12 F2 Wullenweberstrasse 6 D3
Werderscher Markt 9 B4 Wundtstrasse 4 D5 & 4 E4
Taubenstrasse 8 F4, 9 A4
Usedomer Strasse 1 A3
Werderstrasse 9 B3 Württembergallee 3 A5
Tauentzienstrasse 12 E1 Württembergische
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Wernigeroder Strasse 5 A1
Technische Universität 5 C4 V-D-Heydt-Strasse 13 A1 Weserstrasse 16 F5 Würzburger Strasse 12 E2
Tegeler Weg 4 E1 & 4 F2 Verbindungskanal 5 B2 Westarpstrasse 12 F4
Tellstrasse 16 F5 Veteranen Strasse 1 C4 Westend 3 B3 & 3 C3 X
Tempelherrenstrasse 15 B3 Viktoriapark 14 E5 Westfälische Strasse 11 A4 Xantener Strasse 11 A2
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Tharandter Strasse 12 D4
Vinetaplatz 1 C2 Wichertstrasse 2 F1 Yitzak-Rabin-Strasse 8 D3
Volkspark Friedrichshain Wichmannstrasse 12 F1 & 8 D5
Theater des Westens 12 D1
10 F1 Yorckstrasse 14 D4 & 14 E4
Theodor-Heuss-Platz 3 B5 & 13 A1
Volkspark Hasenheide 16 D5 Wiebestrasse 5 B1
Thomas-Dehler-Strasse 6 F5
Thomasiusstrasse 7 A2
Voltairestrasse 10 D3
Wielandstrasse 5 B5, Z
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Thrasoltstrasse 4 F4 & 5 A4 Zähringerstrasse
Vorbergstrasse 13 B5
Wiener Strasse 16 F2
Thüringerallee 3 B5 11 A3 & 11 B3
Voss Strasse 8 E5
Tieckstrasse 8 F1 Wikingerufer 6 D2 Zauritzweg 5 A4
Wilhelmsaue 11 B5 & 12 D5 Zeughaus (Deutsches
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Wadzeckstrasse 10 D1 Strasse 6 F1 Ziegelstrasse 8 F2, 9 A2
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Waisenstrasse 10 D3 Wilhelmshöhe 14 F5 Zietenstrasse 13 B2
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Wallstrasse 9 B5, 9 C4 Wilmersdorf 11 B5 Zionskirche 2 D4
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Trebbiner Strasse 14 E2 Warburgzeile 5 A3 4 F5, 5 A5 & 11 A1 Zoologischer Garten 6 E5,
Treseburger Strasse 5 A2 Warnenweg 3 A5 Wilmsstrasse 15 B3 12 D1 & 12 E4
Tucholskystrasse 9 A1 Wartburgplatz 12 F5 Wilsnacker Strasse 7 A1 Zossener Brücke 15 A3
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324  GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold type Alte Nationalgalerie 80 Auguste von Liegnitz,
refer to main entries Berlin’s Best: Historic Princess
Architecture 41 Neuer Pavillon 166
A Berlin’s Best: Museums and Schloss Schönhausen
Aalto, Alvar 137 Galleries 36 172
Abbado, Claudio 121 Street-by-Street map 74 tomb 167
Abdul Hamid, Sultan 83, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 107 Auguste von Sachsen-
85 Alter Jüdischer Friedhof 106 Weimar
Academy of Fine Arts Street-by-Street map 103 tomb 167
(Akademie der Künste) 23, Altes Museum 77 Autumn in Berlin 52
137 Berlin’s Best: Historic Aviary
Academy of Science 23 Architecture 41 Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe
Accessories Berlin’s Best: Museums and walk 211
shopping 252, 253 Galleries 35, 36
Accommodation 218–25 Great days in Berlin 10 B
Achtermann, Theodore history 26 Babelsberg palace see
Wilhelm 59 Street-by-Street map 75 Schloss Babelsberg
Admiralspalast 71 Altes Palais 64 Bach, Johann Sebastian 71
The Adoration of the Magi Street-by-Street map 58 Bach Tage Potsdam 52
(van der Goes) 34 Altes Rathaus (Potsdam) 206 Badminton 272, 273
AEG-Turbinenhalle 179 Amati family 120 Baglione, Giovanni 129
Berlin’s Best: Historic Ambulances 282, 283 Bahn Tower 47
Architecture 41 Angelico, Fra 129 Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse 13,
Ägyptisches Museum 81, Anhalter Bahnhof 144 71
168 Anna Sophie of Brunswick Baker, Josephine 155
Berlin’s Best: Museums and 81 Baldung Grien, Hans 128
Galleries 36 Antiques shops 256, 257 Ballet 266, 267
Air travel 288–9 Archenhold Sternwarte 182 Baluschek, Hans 169
Airports 288–9 Architecture Banking 284–5
Flughafen Tempelhof 41, Baroque architecture 25 Banknotes 285
149, 289 Berlin’s Best: Historic Barlach, Ernst 178
Akademie der Künste Architecture 38–41 Baroque Period 24–5
23, 137 Berlin’s Best: Modern architecture 40
Albers, Hans 132 Architecture 44–7 Bars 248–9
Albrecht the Bear 21, 183 Arkaden 47 Bartning, Otto 145
Alcohol 230–31 Arnim, Ferdinand von 212 Baselitz, Georg
Alexander I, Tsar 98 Arsenal see Zeughaus Berlinische Galerie 145
Alexanderplatz 98 Art Volk Ding Zero 115
Alexandra, Tsarina 201 shopping 256, 257 Basketball 273
Alexandrowka (Potsdam) see also Museums and Bauakademie 26
200–201 galleries Bauhaus
Alliiertenmuseum 186 Art Deco architecture 41 Bauhaus-Archiv 36, 44, 46,
Berlin’s Best: Museums and Art Library see 131
Galleries 37 Kunstbibliothek Gemäldegalerie 130
Altdorfer, Albrecht 128 Ascanians 21 Baumgarten, Paul 158, 188,
Alte Bibliothek 64 ATMs 284 189
Berlin’s Best: Historic Attlee, Clement 201 Bebel, August 59
Architecture 40 Auction houses 256, 257 Bebelplatz 13, 64
Street-by-Street map August Ferdinand, Prince 137 Street-by-Street map 58–9
58 Augusta Victoria, Empress 29 Becher, Ewald 214
GENERAL INDEX  325
Becherer, Christian Friedrich Berlin Wall 30, 31 Blechen, Karl 80

104–5 Checkpoint Charlie 10, 12, Blockhaus Nikolskoe 211
Beck, General Ludwig 131 13, 142, 145 Bluemax Theater 133
Bed-and-breakfast 219 East Side Gallery 175 Boats 298–9
Beer 230 Gedenkstätte Berliner Historischer Hafen Berlin 81
Beer gardens 248, 249 Mauer 113 Bobeck, Karl 163
Begas, Karl 139 Haus am Checkpoint Böcklin, Arnold
Begas, Reinhold Charlie 10, 12, 13, 37, 142, The Island of the Dead 80
Alte Nationalgalerie 80 145 Bode, Wilhelm von
Humboldt Universität 63 Reminders of the Divided Bode-Museum 81
monument to Bismarck 136 City 42 Museum of Islamic Art 85
Neptunenbrunnen 28, 94 Berlinale – Internationale Bode-Museum 81
statue of Schiller 67 Filmfestspiele 53 Berlin’s Best: Museums and
Villa von der Heydt 131 Berliner Dom 19, 72, 78–9 Galleries 36
Beggars 282 Berlin’s Best: Historic Street-by-Street map 74
Behnisch, Günther 46 Architecture 39, 41 Bodt, Caspar Jean de 99
Behrens, Peter Great days in Berlin 12 Bodt, Jean de
AEG-Turbinenhalle 41, 179 Street-by-Street map 75 Marstall 81
Alexanderplatz 98 Berliner Ensemble 109 Palais Schwerin 93
Beisheim, Otto 132 Berliner Frauenlauf 50 Parochialkirche 99
Beisheim Center 47, 132 Berliner Neujahrslauf 53 Zeughaus 60
Bellevue, Schloss see Schloss Berlinische Galerie 145 Böhm, Gottfried 159
Bellevue Berlin’s Best: Museums and Böhme, Martin Heinrich
Bellini, Giovanni 129 Galleries 36 Luisenkirche 169
Belvedere 168 Bernhardt, Karl 179 Friedrichsfelde 182
Street-by-Street map 163 Bernini, Gianlorenzo 81 Schlossplatz 76
Bendlerblock (Gedenkstätte Beuys, Joseph 35 Boltanski, Christian 105
Deutscher Widerstand) 131 Richtkräfte 114 Book shops 254, 255
Berend, Charlotte 29 Bicycles 272, 273, 293 Boros, Christian 109
Berendt, Kurt 105 Bie opolski, Jakow 182 Borsig, August 26
Berggruen, Heinz 168 Biergärten (beer gardens) Borsig family 180
Berlin Art Week 52 248, 249 Borussia (Prussia) (Menzel) 21
Berlin Blockade (1948–49) 31, Big 25 Berlin 50 Bosch, Carl 30
149 Bildergalerie (Potsdam) 200 Bosch, Hieronymus 128
Luftbrücke 43 Berlin’s Best: Museums and Botanischer Garten 186
Berlin Brandenburg Airport Galleries 36 Berlin’s Best: Parks and
288–9 Street-by-Street map 195 Gardens 48
Berlin Congress (1878) 27 Biron, Peter 182 Böttger, Johann Friedrich
Berlin Filmfestspiele 133 Birth of Christ (Schongauer) 124–5
Berlin Königliche-Porzellan- 126, 128 Botticelli, Sandro
Manufaktur 29 Bismarck, Otto von 27, 29 Gemäldegalerie 36, 129
Berlin-Marathon 52, 273 Ehemaliges Kupferstichkabinett 121
Berlin Motorrad Tage 53 Regierungsviertel 68 Madonna with Child 126
Berlin Philharmonic 30 Franziskaner Klosterkirche 98 Boucher, François 129
Berlin-Potsdam railway 26 monument 136 Boumann, Johann the Elder
Berlin Salsa Congress 52 Neue Synagoge 102 Altes Rathaus (Potsdam)
Berlin Secessionist Zitadelle Spandau 177 205
movement 27 Blankenstein, Hermann Berliner Dom 78
Berlin Tourismus & Kongress Lapidarium 148 Französische Kirche
GmbH 221, 275, 281 Nikolaikirche 92–3 (Potsdam) 204
Boumann, Johann the Elder Die Brücke Casino

(cont.) Brücke-Museum (Dahlem) Glienicke and Babelsberg
Holländisches Viertel 36, 184, 215 walk 212
(Potsdam) 204 Kupferstichkabinett 121 Castellan’s House
Schloss Schönhausen 172 Neue Nationalgalerie 130 Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe
Boumann, Michael Philipp Brücke-Museum (Dahlem) walk 210
Schloss Bellevue 38, 137 184, 215 Castles
Boutique hotels 224–5 Berlin’s Best: Museums and Stadtschloss 22, 23, 28, 76
Brahm, Otto 112 Galleries 36 Zitadelle Spandau 40, 177
Brandenburg 21–2 Bruegel, Pieter Cathedrals
Brandenburg, Margraves of Dutch Proverbs 127, 128 Berliner Dom 12, 19, 39, 41,
21, 183 Brueghel, Jan the Elder 129 72, 75, 78–9
Brandenburger Tor Budget travel 280, 281 Deutscher Dom 13, 40, 67
(Brandenburg Gate) 69 Bülow, Hans von 121 Französischer Dom 40, 57,
Berlin’s Best: Historic Buñuel, Luis 168 66
Architecture 39, 40 Bürde, Heinrich 71 St-Hedwigs-Kathedrale 59,
Great days in Berlin 10, 12, Bureau de change 284 64–5
13 Büring, Johann Gottfried see also Churches
history 26 Bildergalerie (Potsdam) 200 Cayart, Louis 66
Braque, Georges Chinesisches Haus Cecilienhof, Schloss
Bröhan-Museum 36 (Potsdam) 199 (Potsdam) 201
Museum Berggruen 169 Neues Palais (Potsdam) 196 Cemeteries
Braunfels, Stephan 138 Potsdam town gates 205 Alter Jüdischer Friedhof
Breakfast, in hotels 218 Buses 294–5 103, 106
Brecht, Bertolt 30 from airport 289 Dorotheenstädtischer
Admiralspalast 71 Business hotels 223 Friedhof 110–11
Berliner Ensemble 109 Busse, Carl 183 Friedhof
Brecht-Weigel- Stubenrauchstrasse 187
Gedenkstätte 37, 112 C Friedhöfe vor dem
Deutsches Theater 112 C/O Berlin 154 Halleschen Tor 148
grave 110 Cabaret 262–3 Jüdischer Friedhof 108
Brecht-Weigel-Gedenkstätte Cafés 245, 247 Jüdischer Friedhof
37, 112 Calandrelli, Alexander 74, Weissensee 173
Brendel, Johann Gottlieb 210 80 St-Annen-Kirche 184
Bridges 139 Calder, Alexander 118 Central Berlin
Gertraudenbrücke 87, 139 Camping 220, 221 map 18–19
Glienicke Brücke 13, 212–13 Canal, Spree-Oder 23 Centrum Judaicum 104
Jungfernbrücke 139 Canaletto, Antonio 129 Berlin’s Best: Museums and
Moltkebrücke 139 Canova, Antonio Galleries 37
Oberbaumbrücke 175 Alte Nationalgalerie 80 Street-by-Street map 102
Schleusenbrücke 139 Bode-Museum 81 Ceramics
Schlossbrücke 12, 75, 76, Cantian, Christian Gottlieb Königliche Porzellan-
139 76 Manufaktur 125, 137, 168,
Weidendammer Brücke 139 Caravaggio 203
Britz, Schloss 183 Bildergalerie (Potsdam) 200 shops 254–5
Britzer Baumblüte 50 Cupid Victorious 126, 129 Cézanne, Paul 169
Bröhan, Karl H 169 Gemäldegalerie 36 Chamber Music Hall see
Bröhan-Museum 13, 169 Cars Kammermusiksaal
Berlin’s Best: Museums and driving in Berlin 292–3 Chamisso, Adelbert von
Galleries 36 driving to Berlin 291 bust of 103, 105
Brösicke, Katharina von Caruso, Enrico 70 Chapel of the Holy Spirit see
81 Cash machines 284 Heiliggeistkapelle
Chaplin, Charlie 70 Churches (cont.) Coins 285

Chardin, Jean Baptiste Heiliggeistkapelle 40, 94 Cold War 31
Siméon Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis- Alliiertenmuseum 37, 186
The Draughtsman 129 Kirche 10, 12, 13, 28, 41, Berlin Blockade 149
Charité 112 150, 153, 156–7 Checkpoint Charlie 10, 12,
Charlottenburg, Schloss see Luisenkirche 169 13, 145
Schloss Charlottenburg Marienkirche 12, 13, 39, 40, Glienicke Brücke 13, 213
Charlottenhof, Schloss 96–7 Haus am Checkpoint
(Potsdam) 194, 198 Nikolaikirche 12, 13, 40, 90, Charlie 37, 145
Checkpoint Charlie 145 92–3 Reminders of the Divided
Great days in Berlin 10, Nikolaikirche (Potsdam) 205 City 42–3
12, 13 Parochialkirche 40, 99 Cölln 21–2, 87
Haus am Checkpoint Peter und Paul Kirche Communications 286–7
Charlie 10, 12, 13, 37, 145 (Potsdam) 204 Communs (Potsdam) 198
Reminders of the Divided St-Annen-Kirche (Dahlem) Street-by-Street map 194
City 43 40, 184 Concentration camps
Street-by-Street St-Matthäus-Kirche 119, 121 Sachsenhausen Museum
map 142 St-Nikolai-Kirche 40 181
Cheese shops 258, 259 Saints Peter and Paul Concert Hall see Konzerthaus
Chemists 282, 283 (Nikolskoe) 211 Concert halls 266, 267
Chiaramella da Gandino, Sophienkirche 103, 106 Consulates 278
Francesco 40, 177 Zionskirche 108–9 Corinth, Lovis
Children 274–5 see also Cathedrals Portrait of Charlotte Berend
clothes shops 252, 253 Churchill, Winston 201 in a White Dress 29
in hotels 219 Cinema 264–5 Courts of Justice see
in restaurants 227 CinemaxX 133 Stadtgericht
toy shops 254, 255 famous films about Berlin Cranach, Lucas the Elder
Chinesisches Haus (Potsdam) 265 Gemäldegalerie 128
199 festivals 53, 265 Martin Luther 60
Street-by-Street map 195 Filmpark Babelsberg Credit cards 284
Chipperfield, David (Potsdam) 11, 207 in shops 251
Beisheim Center 132 Filmuseum Berlin 12, 13, 37, Cremer, Fritz 92
Neues Museum 80 132 Cremer and Wolffenstein 94
Chirico, Giorgio de 130 German cinema 155 Crime 282
Chodowiecki, Daniel 87 Marstall (Filmmuseum, Crown Prince’s Palace see
Christine, Queen 172 Potsdam) 206 Kronprinzenpalais
Christmas 53 UFA film studios 30, 155 Crucifixion (Rihestein) 96
Christo 139 City walls see Stadtmauer Cupid Victorious (Caravaggio)
Christopher Street Day 51 Classic Open Air 51 126, 129
Christus, Petrus 128 Claude Lorrain 129 Currency 284–5
Churches 281 Clay, General Lucius 149 Customs and etiquette 279
country churches 185 Climate 50–53 Customs and excise 278
Franziskaner Klosterkirche Clothes Cvijanovic, Alexander 131
98–9 Märkisches Museum 87 Cycling 272, 273, 293
Französische Kirche shops 252–3
(Potsdam) 204–5 Clubs 270–71 D
Friedenskirche (Potsdam) Coach House Dada 154
195, 199 Glienicke and Babelsberg Dahlem 184–7
Friedrichswerdersche walk 212 map 184
Kirche 41, 59, 65 Coach travel 291 Dahlem City Farm see
Gethsemanekirche 172–3 Coffee 231 Domäne Dahlem
Grunewald-Kirche 214 Coffee bars 245, 247 Daimler Contemporary 135
Daimler Quartier 134–5 Disabled travellers E

Dairy 280, 281 East of the Centre 89–99
Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe entertainment 261 area map 89
walk 211 in hotels 220, 221 Fernseturm 95
Dalí, Salvador 130, 168 in restaurants 227 hotels 222–4
Dance Discos 270, 271 Marienkirche 96–7
classical music and dance Diterichs, Friedrich Wilhelm Nikolaiviertel: Street-by-
266–7 93 Street map 90–91
festivals 50, 51, 52 Dix, Otto restaurants 233
modern dance 266, 267 Berlinische Galerie 145 East Side Gallery 175
Dannecker, Johann Heinrich Neue Nationalgalerie 130 Reminders of the Divided
67 Döblin, Alfred 98 City 43
Dante 121 Doesburg, Theo van 131 Easter 50
Daumier, Honoré 121 Dohna family 172 Ebert, Friedrich 30
David, Gerard 128 Domäne Dahlem 185 Eckstein, Johann 163
DDR Museum 94 Berlin’s Best: Museums and Egyptian Museum see
Debis-Haus 47, 135 Galleries 37 Ägyptisches Museum
Debit cards 284 Donatello 81 Ehemaliges
Department stores 250, Dönitz, Grossadmiral Karl Regierungsviertel
251 183 10, 68
food halls 258, 259 Dorotheenstadt 23 Eichmann, Adolf 188
Depression 30 Dorotheenstädtischer Eiermann, Egon 156
Deutsch-Amerikanisches Friedhof 110–11 Eilbertus of Cologne 124
Volksfest 51 Drake, Friedrich 137 Einstein, Albert 30
Deutsch-Französisches The Draughtsman (Chardin) Archenhold Sternwarte 182
Volksfest 51 129 Einsteinturm (Potsdam) 206
Deutsch-Russisches Museum Drinks Humboldt Universität 63
(Berlin-Karlshorst) 183 What to drink in Berlin Einsteinturm (Potsdam)
Deutsche Bank KunstHalle 63 230–31 Berlin’s Best: Historic
festivals 58 see also Food and drink; Architecture 41
Deutscher Dom 13, 67 Wine Electrical equipment 280
Berlin’s Best: Historic Dubuffet, Jean 168 Elsheimer, Adam 128
Architecture 40 Dürer, Albrecht Email 286
Deutsches Historisches Gemäldegalerie 36, 128 Embassies 278, 281
Museum see Zeughaus Kupferstichkabinett 118, EMBRACE BERLIN Tango
Deutsches Technikmuseum 121 Community Festival 50
Berlin 11, 148 Portrait of Hieronymus Emergencies 282, 283
Berlin’s Best: Museums and Holzschuher 126 Encke, Erdmann 167
Galleries 35, 37 Dutch House Encke, Wilhelmine (Countess
Deutsches Theater 112 Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe Lichtenau) 210
Dialing codes 287 walk 211 Ende, Hermann 131
Dieter, Fritz 95 Dutch Landscape with a Raid Endell, August 105
Dietrich, Marlene (Ruysdael) 128 Engelhart, Ludwig
The Blue Angel 155 Dutch Proverbs (Bruegel) 127, statues of Marx and Engels
Deutsches Technikmuseum 128 94
37 Dutch Quarter (Potsdam) see Engels, Friedrich
Filmuseum Berlin 132 Holländisches Viertel Humboldt Universität 63
grave 187 Düttmann, Werner 137, 184 statue of 94
Theater am Potsdamer Dyck, Anton van Entertainment 260–75
Platz 133 Bildergalerie (Potsdam) 200 cinema 264–5
Dior, Christian 125 Gemäldegalerie 129 classical music and dance
Diplomatenviertel 136 Jagdschloss Grunewald 215 266–7
Entertainment (cont.) Expressionism (cont.) Flatowturm

clubs 270–71 Einsteinturm 206 Glienicke and Babelsberg
disabled travellers 261 German cinema 155 walk 213
musicals, reviews and Eyck, Jan van Flavin, Dan 114
cabaret 262–3 Gemäldegalerie 128 Flea markets 256–7
public transport at night Madonna in Church 118 Flick (Friedrich Christian)
261 Eyserbeck, Johann August Collection 35, 114
rock, jazz and world music Neuer Garten 201 Flower shops 254, 255
268–9 Pfaueninsel 210 Flughafen Tempelhof 41,
sport and recreation 149, 289
272–3 F Flute Concert (Menzel) 24
theatres 262–3 Fahrenkamp, Emil 130 Fontane, Theodor 27, 133
tickets 260–61, 263, 267, Farm in Daugart (Schmidt- Food and drink
269 Rottluff ) 130 The Flavours of Berlin 228–9
Eosander, Johann Friedrich Fasanenstrasse 158 shopping 258–9
164 Street-by-Street map 152 What to drink in Berlin
Ephraim, Nathan Veitel Fashion shops 252–3 230–31
Heinrich 93 Fechhelm, Carl Traugott see also Restaurants
Ephraim-Palais 12, 93 Unter den Linden 61 Football 273
Street-by-Street map 90 Zeughaus 25 Foreign Affairs 51
Equestrian statue of Frederick Federal Republic of Germany Forschungs- und
the Great see 31 Gedenkstätte
Reiterdenkmal Friedrichs Fellner, Ferdinand 70 Normannenstrasse 175
des Grossen Fernsehturm 95 Forsthaus Paulsborn
Erlach, Sigismund von 183 Berlin’s Best: Modern Grunewald walk 215
Ermeler, Wilhelm Ferdinand Architecture 46 Fortuna (Scheibe) 165
86–7 Great days in Berlin 12, 13 Fosse, Bob 158
Ermeler-Haus 86–7 Ferries 298 Foster, Norman
Ermisch, Richard 179 Fesstage 50 Freie Universität 186
Ernst, Max Festival of Lights 52 Reichstag 13, 38, 46, 139
Museum Scharf- Festivals 50–53 Fountains
Gerstenberg 168 classical music and dance Fountain of the Lions 212
Neue Nationalgalerie 130 266, 267 Märchenbrunnen 173
Ethnologisches Museum 185 film festivals 53, 265 Neptunenbrunnen 28, 88, 94
Berlin’s Best: Museums and Festungsgraben Palace see Pfaueninsel 211
Galleries 37 Palais am Festungsgraben Fouquet, Jean
Étienne Chevalier (Fouquet) Fêtes Galantes (Watteau) Étienne Chevalier 36
36 203 Gemäldegalerie 129
Etiquette 279 Feuchtwanger, Lion 64 Franciscan Friary Church see
Europa-Center 154 Fichte, Johann Gottlieb Franziskaner Klosterkirche
Berlin’s Best: Modern grave 111 Franckel, Joseph 106
Architecture 46 Humboldt Universität 63 Franco-Prussian War (1870–71)
Street-by-Street Film see Cinema 60
map 153 Fire services 282, 283 Frank, Charlotte 46, 138
Europe First Time Painting Franke, Günter 95
map 14 (Rauschenberg) 114 Franziskaner Klosterkirche 40,
Euros 285 Fischer, Samuel 98–9
Events 50–53 grave 173 Französische Kirche
Expressionism Fischer von Erlach, Josef (Potsdam) 204–5
architecture 41 Emanuel 64 Französischer Dom 57, 66
Brücke-Museum (Dahlem) Fish, shopping 258, 259 Berlin’s Best: Historic
184 Fitness centres 273 Architecture 40
Frederick the Great see Friedrich II, King of Prussia Friedrich Wilhelm IV, King of
Friedrich II, King of Prussia (cont.) Prussia (cont.)
Frederick the Great (Pesne) 24 portraits of 23, 24 Museum Scharf-
Freie Universität 186 Reiterdenkmal Friedrichs Gerstenberg 168
French Cathedral see des Grossen 58, 63 Orangerie (Potsdam) 199
Französischer Dom Schloss Charlottenburg Peter und Paul Kirche
French Church (Potsdam) see 164, 165 (Potsdam) 204
Französische Kirche Schloss Sanssouci Schloss Charlottenhof
Friedeburg, Admiral Hans (Potsdam) 202 (Potsdam) 198
Georg von 183 tomb 202 statue of 74, 80
Friedel, Theodor 70 Friedrich III, Elector see tomb 199
Friedenskirche (Potsdam) Friedrich I, King of Prussia Friedrich Wilhelm von
199 Friedrich III, Kaiser Hohenzollern, Elector of
Street-by-Street map 195 death 29 Brandenburg (the Great
Friedhof Stubenrauchstrasse tomb 199 Elector) 22–3, 169
187 Friedrich von Hohenzollern, Altes Rathaus (Potsdam)
Friedhöfe vor dem Elector of Brandenburg 21 205
Halleschen Tor 148 Friedrich Leopold, Prince 213 Kupferstichkabinett 121
Friedländer, David Friedrich Ludwig, Prince Lustgarten 76
grave 108 tomb 78 Reiterdenkmal des Grossen
Friedrich, Caspar David Friedrich Wilhelm, Elector of Kurfürsten 162, 166
Alte Nationalgalerie 36, 80 Brandenburg Staatsbibliothek 63
Friedrich, Woldemar 79 Ribbeckhaus 81 Friedrichsfelde, Schloss
Friedrich I, King of Prussia Schloss Tegel 180 182–3
(Friedrich III, Elector of Friedrich Wilhelm I, King of Friedrichstadt 23
Brandenburg) 23 Prussia 23 Friedrichstadtpalast 109
Köpenick 183 Gipsformerei Berlin 167 Friedrichstadtpassagen 11,
Neuer Pavillon (Schinkel- Holländisches Viertel 67
Pavillon) 166 (Potsdam) 204 Berlin’s Best: Modern
portrait of 25 Lustgarten 76 Architecture 46
Reiterdenkmal des Grossen Mausoleum 167 Friedrichstrasse 12
Kurfürsten 166 tomb 199 Street-by-Street map
Schloss Charlottenburg Friedrich Wilhelm II, King of 142–3
159, 161, 162 Prussia 26 Friedrichswerder 23
Schloss Schönhausen 172 Belvedere 168 Friedrichswerdersche Kirche
Schlossplatz 76 Marmorpalais (Potsdam) 65
tomb 79 204 Berlin’s Best: Historic
Friedrich II, Elector of Neuer Garten (Potsdam) Architecture 41
Brandenburg 22 201 Street-by-Street map 59
Friedrich II, King of Prussia Prinzessinnenpalais 65 Funkturm 30, 179
(Frederick the Great) 23, 24, Schloss Charlottenburg Furtwängler, Wilhelm 121
172 165
Altes Rathaus (Potsdam) Schloss Pfaueninsel 210 G
205 Friedrich Wilhelm III, King of Gaillard, Eugène
Bildergalerie (Potsdam) 200 Prussia Bröhan-Museum 169
harpsichord 120 Alexandrowka 201 Kunstgewerbemuseum
Historische Mühle Blockhaus Nikolskoe 211 125
(Potsdam) 200 Friedrich Wilhelm IV, King of Gainsborough, Thomas 129
Neue Kammern (Potsdam) Prussia 26 Galeries Lafayette 11, 19, 67
200 Alte Nationalgalerie 80 Berlin’s Best: Modern
Neuer Flügel 166 Friedenskirche (Potsdam) Architecture 45
Neues Palais (Potsdam) 196 199 Galgenhaus 87
Gallé, Emile Gerlach, Philipp Gontard, Carl von (cont.)

Bröhan-Museum 169 Kollegienhaus 40 Neues Palais (Potsdam)
Kunstgewerbemuseum 125 Kronprinzenpalais 65 196, 197
Galleries see Museums and Luisenkirche 169 Spittelkolonnaden 68
galleries Mehringplatz 148 Gorbachev, Mikhail 113
Gallery Weekend 50 German Cathedral see Göring, Hermann 68
Garbo, Greta 70 Deutscher Dom Gossaert, Jan 128
Gardens see Parks and German Democratic Göthe, Johann Friedrich
gardens Republic (GDR) 31 Eosander von
Gärtner, Eduard 167 German Empire 28–9 Schloss Schönhausen 172
Gaststätte Zur letzten Instanz Gerron, Kurt 132 Schlossplatz 76
99 Gersaint’s Shop Sign Gothic Bridge
Gaul, August 178 (Watteau) 165 Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe
Gay and lesbian travellers Gertraudenbrücke 87, 139 walk 211
280, 281 Gethsemanekirche 172–3 Government District see
bars 248, 249 Geyer, Albert 213 Regierungsviertel
Christopher Street Day 51 Giacometti, Alberto 169 Goya y Lucientes, Francisco
clubs 271 Gift shops 254–5 José de
Gedenkstätte Berlin- Gilly, David Kupferstichkabinett 121
Hohenschönhausen 174 grave 148 Museum Scharf-
Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer Gilly, Friedrich 93 Gerstenberg 168
113 Giorgione 129 Grabstätte von Heinrich von
Gedenkstätte Deutscher Giotto 129 Kleist 189
Widerstand 131 Gipsformerei Berlin 167 Grael, Johann Friedrich 106
Gedenkstätte Grosse Girl on a Beach (Munch) 121 Graupner, Gottlieb 125
Hamburger Strasse 105 Gitton, Bernard 154 Greater Berlin
Street-by-Street map 103 Giustiani, Cardinal 129 map 16–17
Gedenkstätte Plötzensee 180 The Glass of Wine (Vermeer) restaurants 243
Gehry, Frank O 46 127 Green travel 292
Gemäldegalerie 126–9 Glienicke and Babelsberg Grimm Brothers 173
Berlin’s Best: Modern walk 212–13 Grimmek, Bruno 154
Architecture 45, 46 Glienicke Brücke 13, 212–13 Grimshaw, Nicholas
Berlin’s Best: Museums and Gloria Victis (Mercié) 60 Ludwig-Erhard-Haus 46,
Galleries 34, 36 Glume, Friedrich Christian 154
Dutch and Flemish 202 Grisebach, Hans 158
painting 128–9 Goes, Hugo van der Gropius, Martin
floorplan 126–7 Gemäldegalerie 128 Martin-Gropius-Bau 10, 13,
French, English and The Adoration of the Magi 34 27, 41, 144
Spanish painting 129 Goethe, Johann Wolfgang Gropius, Walter 30
German painting 128 von Bauhaus 131
Great days in Berlin 12, 13 statue of 136 Bauhaus-Archiv 44, 46
Italian painting 129 Göhre, Friedrich Wilhelm 215 Hansaviertel 137
Street-by-Street map 118 Golf 272, 273 tombstone of Albert
Visitors’ checklist 127 Gontard, Carl von 175 Mendel 173
Gendarmenmarkt 13, 31, 66 Alexanderplatz 98 Grosse Neugierde
Gentz, Heinrich 187 Brandenburger Tor Glienicke and Babelsberg
Gentzkow, Charlotte von 194 (Potsdam) 205 walk 212
Georg-Kolbe-Museum 178 Communs (Potsdam) 198 Grosse Hamburger Strasse
Gerichtslaube 94 Französischer Dom 66 Memorial see Gedenkstätte
Glienicke and Babelsberg Königskolonnaden 187 Grosse Hamburger Strasse
walk 213 Marmorpalais (Potsdam) Grosser Stern 136
Street-by-Street map 90 204 Grossheim, Karl von 158
Grosz, Georg Haus der Kulturen der Welt Hess, Rudolf 177
Berlinische Galerie 145 12, 138 Hesse, Ludwig 199
Neue Nationalgalerie 130 Berlin’s Best: Modern Hessel, Ehrenfried 155
Grünberg, Martin Architecture 46 Heydrich, Reinhard
Deutscher Dom 67 Haus der Wannsee-Konferenz 144, 188
Parochialkirche 99 188–9 Hilmer and Sattler
Zeughaus 60 Berlin’s Best: Museums and Partnership
Grunewald-Kirche Galleries 37 Beisheim Center 132
Grunewald walk 214 Haus des Rundfunks 179 Gemäldegalerie 45, 46, 128
Grunewald walk 214–15 Berlin’s Best: Historic Museum Berggruen 168
Grunewaldturm 170, 189 Architecture 41 Himmler, Heinrich 144
Guardi, Francesco 129 Haus Huth 135 Hiring boats 299
Guided tours 279, 281 Havel river 21, 188 Historische Mühle (Potsdam)
Guimard, Hector 169 map 188 200
Gutspark Britz boat trips 298, 299 Historischer Hafen Berlin 81
Berlin’s Best: Parks and Head of the Faun (Picasso) 36 History 21–31
Gardens 48 Health 283 Hitler, Adolf
Gyms 273 Health insurance 283 and architecture 41
Heckel, Erich 184 assassination attempts 131,
H Heckmann-Höfe 180, 187
Hackesche Höfe 12, 105 Street-by-Street map 102 becomes chancellor 30
Street-by-Street map 103 Hegel, Georg Wilhelm Brandenburger Tor 69
Hackescher Markt 11 Friedrich 26 Ehemaliges
Hackescher Markt Station 29 grave 111 Regierungsviertel 10, 68
Haeften, Werner von 131 Humboldt Universität 63 Olympiastadion 178
Hagermeister, Karl 169 Heidenreich, Conrad 135 portrait of 30
Hals, Frans Heiliger, Bernhard World War II 31
Malle Babbe 128, 129 Brücke-Museum (Dahlem) Hitzig, Friedrich 159
Hamburger Bahnhof 114–15 184, 215 Höch, Hannah 145
Berlin’s Best: Museums and Heiliggeistkapelle 94 Hockey 273
Galleries 35, 36 Berlin’s Best: Historic Hodler, Ferdinand 130
Hanfmuseum (Hemp Architecture 40 Hoffmann, ETA
Museum) Heine, Heinrich 63, 64 grave 148
Street-by-Street map 91 Heinrich, Prince of Prussia 62 Hoffmann, Friedrich
Hansaviertel 46, 137 Heinrich I, Kaiser 156 grave 111
Hanseatic League 21 Heinrich II, Kaiser 124 Hoffmann, Joseph 169
Häring, Hugo 186 Heise, Heinz 155 Hoffmann, Ludwig
Hartmann, Arnold 214 Heisenberg, Werner 30 Jüdischer Friedhof
Hartzer, Ferdinand 148 Heldt, Werner 145 Weissensee 173
Hasak, Max 149 Helmer, Hermann 70 Märkisches Museum 86
Haupstadt Turnier 52 Helmholtz, Hermann von Pergamonmuseum 82
Hauptmann, Gerhart 109 statue of 63 Stadthaus 91
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie Hemmeter, Karl 156 Hohenzollern dynasty 21, 22,
145 Hemp Museum 28
Berlin’s Best: Museums and (Hanfmuseum) Berliner Dom 78
Galleries 37 Street-by-Street map 91 Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-
Great days in Berlin 10, 12, Hendrickje Stoffels Kirche 157
13 (Rembrandt) 127 Schloss Cecilienhof
Reminders of the Divided Henselmann, Hermann (Potsdam) 201
City 43 Fernseturm 95 Schlossplatz 76
Street-by-Street map Karl-Marx-Allee 175 Holbein, Hans the Younger
142 Hentrich, Helmut 154 Portrait of Georg Gisze 128
Holidays, public 53 I Jews 23

Holländisches Viertel IBA-Viertel in Tegel 180 Alter Jüdischer Friedhof
(Potsdam) 204 Ihne, Ernst von 103, 106
Hollein, Hans 136 Bode-Museum 81 Centrum Judaicum 37, 102,
Holocaust Denkmal 12, 13, 69 Marstall 81 104
Holy Roman Empire 22 Staatsbibliothek 41, 58, 63 festivals 51
Hoosemans, Frans 123 Ilgen, Rüdiger von 183 Gedenkstätte Grosse
Hoppenhaupt, JC 196 Imbissbuden (snack kiosks) Hamburger Strasse 103, 105
Horse racing 273 244, 246 Haus der Wannsee-
Hospitals 283 Impressionists 80 Konferenz 188–9
Hostels 220, 221 Inn of the Last Instance see Holocaust Denkmal 12, 13,
Hotels 218–25 Gaststätte Zur letzten 69
booking 219, 221 Instanz Jüdischer Friedhof 108
budget hotels 222–3 Insurance 283 Jüdischer Friedhof
business hotels 223 Internationale Forum des Weissensee 173
charming hotels 223–4 Jungen Films 53 Jüdisches Gemeindehaus
children in 219 Internationale 152, 155
deposits 220 Funkausstellung 52 Jüdisches Museum Berlin
design/boutique hotels Internationale Grüne Woche 12, 13, 35, 37, 140, 143,
224–5 53 146–7
disabled travellers Internationales Kristallnacht 30–31
220, 221 Literaturfestival 52 Neue Synagoge 100, 102,
facilities 219 Internationales Stadionfest 104
hidden extras 218–19 52 Synagoge Rykestrasse 108
Hotel Adlon 70 Internet 286, 287 Wannsee Conference 188–9
luxury hotels 225 The Island of the Dead World War II 31
prices 218 (Böcklin) 80 Joachim Georg, Elector of
saunas and spas 219 Isozaki, Arata 47 Brandenburg 22
House of World Culture see ITB-Internationale Tourismus- Joachim II Hector, Elector of
Haus der Kulturen der Welt Börse 50 Brandenburg 22
Hude, Hermann von Jagdschloss Grunewald 215
der 71 J Johann Cicero, Elector of
Hufeisensiedlung 183 Jagdschloss Glienicke 213 Brandenburg 22
Berlin’s Best: Historic Jagdschloss Grunewald John Paul II, Pope 65
Architecture 41 11 Joost van Cleve 128
Huguenots 23 Berlin’s Best: Historic Jordaens, Jacob 129
Französische Kirche Architecture 40 Jüdische Kulturtage 51
(Potsdam) 204 Berlin’s Best: Museums and Jüdischer Friedhof 108
Französischer Dom 66 Galleries 36 Jüdischer Friedhof
Hugenottenmuseum 37, 66 Grunewald walk 215 Weissensee 173
Köpenick 183 Jahn, Helmut Jüdisches Gemeindehaus 155
Humann, Carl 84 Bahn Tower 47 Street-by-Street map 152
Humboldt, Alexander von Sony Center 45, 134 Jüdisches Museum Berlin
62–3 Jaksa, Duke 183 140, 146–7
Humboldt-Bibliothek 180 James’s Well Berlin’s Best: Modern
Villa von der Heydt 131 Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe Architecture 46
Humboldt, Wilhelm von 62 walk 210 Berlin’s Best: Museums and
Humboldt-Bibliothek 180 Jamnitzer, Christoph 124 Galleries 35, 37
Humboldt family 181 Jamnitzer, Wenzel 124 Great days in Berlin 12, 13
Humboldt Universität 26, Jazz 268, 269 Street-by-Street map 143
62–3 Jazzfest Berlin 52 Juliusturm 40
Street-by-Street map 58 Jeanne-Claude 139 Jungfernbrücke 139
K Kinzer, Hugo 183 Knoblauch, Eduard

KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Kips, Alexander 29 Knoblauchhaus 93
Westens) 11, 13, 27, 159 Kirchner, Ernst Ludwig Neue Synagoge 104
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis- Berlinische Galerie 145 Knoblauch family 93
Kirche 28, 150, 156–7 Brücke-Museum (Dahlem) Knoblauchhaus 93
Berlin’s Best: Historic 36, 184 Street-by-Street map 90
Architecture 41 Gemäldegalerie 130 Koch, Robert 27
Great days in Berlin 10, 12, Georg-Kolbe-Museum 178 Charité 112
13 Klee, Paul Humboldt Universität 63
Street-by-Street map 153 Bauhaus 131 Koerner, Alfred 186
Kaisersaal 134 Bröhan-Museum 36 Kohlbecker, Christoph
Kammermusiksaal 120–21 Museum Berggruen 169 134
Berlin’s Best: Modern Museum Scharf- Kokoschka, Oskar
Architecture 45, 46 Gerstenberg 168 Neue Nationalgalerie 130
Kampfmeyer, Theodor 106 Neue Nationalgalerie 130 Pariser Platz in Berlin 69
Kampmann, Winnetou 144 Kleihues, Josef Paul Kolbe, Georg
Kandinsky, Wassily Hamburger Bahnhof 114 Georg-Kolbe-Museum
Bauhaus 131 Kant-Dreieck 44, 46, 152 178
Neue Nationalgalerie 130 Pariser Platz 46, 69 Kollegienhaus
Kändler, Johann Joachim Klein Glienicke, Schloss Berlin’s Best: Historic
Kunstgewerbemuseum Berlin’s Best: Historic Architecture 40
125 Architecture 41 Kollhoff, Hans 135
Zeughaus 61 Kleine Neugierde Kollhoff, Werner 134
Kant, Gertrud 125 Glienicke and Babelsberg Kollhoff & Timmermann
Kant-Dreieck walk 213 Partnership 47
Berlin’s Best: Modern Kleines Schloss Kollhoff Tower 47
Architecture 44, 46 Glienicke and Babelsberg Köllnischer Park 86
Street-by-Street map 152 walk 213 Kollwitz, Käthe 27
Karajan, Herbert von 121 Kleist, Heinrich von Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum
Karl, Prince of Prussia 209, Grabstätte von Heinrich 152, 158
212 von Kleist 189 Kollwitzplatz 107
Karl-Marx-Allee 46, 174–5 Kleistkolonnaden 187 Mother and Child 158
Karneval der Kulturen 50 Klosterhof Neue Wache 62
Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum Glienicke and Babelsberg Kollwitzplatz 13, 107
158 walk 212 Komische Oper 70
Street-by-Street map 152 Kneipen (bars) 248, 249 Königliche Porzellan-
Kaufhaus des Westens see Knobelsdorff, Georg Manufaktur (KPM) 137
KaDeWe Wenzeslaus von Belvedere 168
Kaufmann, Oskar 107 Bebelplatz 64 Kunstgewerbemuseum
Kaulbach, Wilhelm von 80 grave 148 125
Kavalierhaus Marstall (Potsdam) 206 Schloss Sanssouci
Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe Neue Kammern (Potsdam) (Potsdam) 203
walk 210 200 Königsberg 26
Keitel, Field Marshal Wilhelm Neues Palais (Potsdam) 196 Königskolonnaden
183 Nikolaikirche (Potsdam) 205 187
Kempinski, Berthold St-Hedwigs-Kathedrale 64 Konzerthaus 67
grave 173 Schloss Charlottenburg 164 Berlin’s Best: Historic
Kennedy, John F. 187 Schloss Sanssouci Architecture 39, 41
Kerbel, Lew 139 (Potsdam) 202 Konzertsommer im
Keyser, Heinrich 158 Staatsoper Unter den Englischen Garten 51
Kinderbauernhof Auf dem Linden 65 Köpenick 40, 183
Görlitzer 274, 275 Knoblauch, Dieter 155 Köpenicker Winzerfest 50
Kreisauer Kreis 180 Kurfürstendamm 10, 13, 154 Lenné, Peter Joseph (cont.)
Kremser, Engelbert 186 Kurfürstendamm area 18, Neuer Garten (Potsdam) 201
Kresilas 77 151–9 Park Babelsberg (Potsdam)
Kreuzberg 13, 141–9 area map 151 48
area map 141 Breitscheidplatz and Park Sanssouci (Potsdam)
hotels 222, 224 Ku’damm: Street-by-Street 198
Jüdisches Museum Berlin map 152–3 Pfaueninsel 210
146–7 hotels 222–5 Schloss Charlottenhof
Mehringplatz and Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis- (Potsdam) 198
Friedrichstrasse: Street-by- Kirche 156–7 Schloss Schönhausen 172
Street map 142–3 restaurants 237–8 Schlosspark 167
restaurants 236–7 Tiergarten 49, 136
Kreuzberger Festliche L Volkspark Friedrichshain
Tage 51 Lager 230 173
Kristallnacht (1938) Lalique, René 125 Lessing, Gotthold Ephraim
30–31 Lang, Fritz 155 26, 87
Kronprinzenpalais 65 Filmmuseum Berlin 132 Nathan der Weise 104
Street-by-Street map 59 Lange Nacht der Museen 51 Nikolaiviertel 91
Krüger, Andreas 97 Langfeld, Rutger van 183 Letter Field (Malvessi) 145
Ku’damm see Langhans, Carl Ferdinand Lewandowsky, Via 145
Kurfürstendamm Altes Palais 64 Libeskind, Daniel
Kulturbrauerei 108 grave 148 Jüdisches Museum Berlin
Kulturforum 18 Staatsoper Unter den 35, 37, 46, 143, 146–7
Berlin’s Best: Modern Linden 65 Libraries
Architecture 46 Langhans, Carl Gotthard Alte Bibliothek 40, 58, 64
Great days in Berlin Belvedere 168 Bauhaus-Archiv 131
12, 13 Brandenburger Tor 40, 69 Humboldt-Bibliothek 180
Street-by-Street map Marienkirche 96 Kunstbibliothek 118, 121
118–19 Marmorpalais (Potsdam) 204 Schloss Sanssouci
Kunckel, Johann 124, 211 Mohrenkolonnaden 68 (Potsdam) 203
Kunstbibliothek 121 National Theatre 67 Staatsbibliothek 41, 46, 58,
Street-by-Street map 118 Schloss Bellevue 40, 137 63, 119, 120
Kunstgewerbemuseum Language 279 Licht, Hugo 173
122–5 phrase book 350–52 Lichtenberg, St Bernhard
Baroque 124–5 Lapidarium 148 grave 65
Berlin’s Best: Museums and Laurens, Henri 169 Liebermann, Max 27, 69
Galleries 34, 36 Le Carré, John 13 Alte Nationalgalerie 80
Contemporary design 125 Le Corbusier 46 Berlinische Galerie 145
Fashion 125 Le Corbusier Haus 176 grave 108
floorplan 122–3 Le Geay, Jean Laurent Villenkolonie Alsen 189
Köpenick Palais 183 Communs (Potsdam) 198 Liebknecht, Karl 30
Middle Ages 124 Neues Palais (Potsdam) 196 memorial 136
Neo-Classical Revival, Art Léger, Fernand 130 Staatsratsgebäude 76
Nouveau and Art Deco 125 Leibl, Wilhelm 80 Treptower Park 182
Renaissance 124 Leipziger Platz 23, 135 Lindner, Paul 178
Street-by-Street map 118 Lenné, Peter Joseph Linke, GA 131
Visitors’ checklist 123 Alexandrowka (Potsdam) Liszt, Franz 71
Kunsthaus Dahlem 185 201 Literaturhaus
Kupferstichkabinett 121 Glienicke 212 Street-by-Street map 152
Berlin’s Best: Museums and Leipziger Platz 135 Lorenzetti, Pietro 129
Galleries 36 Lustgarten 76 Lost property 282–3
Street-by-Street map 118 Mehringplatz 148 Louis XIV, King of France 23
Lounges 271 Malle Babbe (Hals) 128, 129 Maps (cont.)

Love in the French Theatre Malvessi, Kühn S-Bahn Back endpaper
(Watteau) 127 Letter Field 145 Scheunenviertel 102–3
Love in the Italian Theatre Manet, Edouard 130 Schloss Charlottenburg
(Watteau) 25 Mann, Heinrich 64 area 161, 162–3
Lubitsch, Ernst 155 grave 110 Southeast Berlin 182
Lucae, Richard 159 Professor Unrat 187 Street Finder 300–23
Ludwig, Eduard 149 Mann, Thomas 64 Three guided walks 209
Ludwig-Erhard-Haus 154 Männlich, Daniel 93 Tiergarten 117
Berlin’s Best: Modern Mao (Warhol) 115 U-Bahn Back endpaper
Architecture 46 Maps Unter den Linden 57
Street-by-Street map 153 Baroque Period 24–5 Wannsee and Havel 188
Luft- und Bebelplatz 58–9 Zehlendorf and Dahlem
Raumfahrtausstellung Berlin 14–15 184
Berlin-Brandenburg 51 Berlin and environs 15 Marathons 50, 52, 273
Luftbrücke Berlin before reunification 42 Marble Palace (Potsdam) see
Reminders of the Divided Berlin’s Best: Historic Marmorpalais
City 43 Architecture 38–9 March, Werner 178
Luise, Queen Berlin’s Best: Modern Märchenbrunnen 173
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis- Architecture 44–5 Marggraf und Müller, Georg
Kirche 157 Berlin’s Best: Museums and Wilhelm 24
Luisenkirche 169 Galleries 34–5 Maria, Walter de 128
Mausoleum 163, 167 Berlin’s Best: Parks and Marienfelde 185
Luisenkirche 169 Gardens 48–9 Marienkirche 96–7
Luisentempel boat trips 299 Berlin’s Best: Historic
Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe Breitscheidplatz and Architecture 39, 40
walk 211 Ku’damm 152–3 Great days in Berlin 12, 13
Lustgarten 23, 76 Central Berlin 18–19 Marius, Jean 120
Street-by-Street map 75 East of the Centre 89 Markets
Luther, Martin 22 Europe 14 flea markets 256–7
Dorotheenstädtischer Further afield 171 food shopping 258–9
Friedhof 110 Glienicke and Babelsberg Märkisches Museum 86
portrait of 60 walk 212–13 Märkisches Ufer 86
Luxemburg, Rosa 30 Greater Berlin 16–17 Marmorpalais (Potsdam) 204
memorial 136 Grunewald walk 214–15 Marstall (Filmmuseum,
Treptower Park 182 Kreuzberg 141 Potsdam) 206
Luxury hotels 225 Kurfürstendamm 151 Marstall (Royal Stables) 81
Lynar, Rochus Guerrini, Graf zu Mehringplatz and Martin-Gropius-Bau 27, 144
Zitadelle Spandau 40, 177 Friedrichstrasse 142–3 Berlin’s Best: Historic
Museum Island 73, 74–5 Architecture 41
M Nikolaiviertel 90–91 Great days in Berlin 10, 13
Machtig, Hermann 149 North of the Centre 101 Street-by-Street map 142
MacLean, Chris 175 Northeast Berlin 172 Martin Luther (Cranach) 60
Madonna in Church (van Northwest Berlin 176 Marx, Karl
Eyck) 118 Park Sanssouci (Potsdam) Humboldt Universität 63
Madonna with Child 194–5 statue of 94
(Botticelli) 126 Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe Marx-Engels-Forum 94
Magazines 287 walk 210–11 März Musik 50
Magritte, René Potsdam 193 Masacchio 129
Museum Scharf- Potsdam palaces 38 Matisse, Henri 169
Gerstenberg 168 Reminders of the Divided Matschinsky-Denninghoff,
Neue Nationalgalerie 130 City 42–3 Brigitte and Martin 159
Mauerpark 174 Meyer, Johann Gustav 182 Moore, Henry

Mausoleum 167 Michel, Paul 135 Akademie der Künste 137
Street-by-Street map 163 Mielke, Erich 175 Neue Nationalgalerie 118
Maxim Gorki Theater 71 Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig Mother and Child (Kollwitz)
May Day 50 Bauhaus 131 158
Meat, shopping Neue Nationalgalerie 46, Mrosk, Otto 149
258, 259 118, 130 Müller, Gustav 186
Media 286–7 Mobile phones 286, 287 Müller, Heinrich 144
Medical services 283 Moholy-Nagy, László 131 Multscher, Hans 128
Mehring, Franz 148 Mohrenkolonnaden 68 Munch, Edvard
Mehringplatz 23, 148 Moltke, Count Helmut James Deutsches Theater 112
Street-by-Street map 143 von 180 Girl on a Beach 121
Meissen porcelain 137, 175 Moltke, Field Marshal Neue Nationalgalerie 130
Neue Kammern (Potsdam) Helmuth von 136 Murnau, Friedrich Wilhelm
200 Moltkebrücke 139 132, 155
Kunstgewerbemuseum Monbijoupark 105 Museum Island 73–87
123, 125 Berlin’s Best: Parks and Altes Museum 77
Zeughaus 61 Gardens 49 area map 73
Memling, Hans 128 Street-by-Street map Berliner Dom 78–9
Memorial to Soviet Soldiers 103 Great days in Berlin 10, 12,
Reminders of the Divided Monet, Claude 130 13
City 42 Money 284–5 Pergamonmuseum 82–5
Mendel, Albert Mönnich, Rudolf restaurants 233
grave 173 Königskolonnaden 187 Street-by-Street map 74–5
Mendelsohn, Erich Stadtgericht 98 Museums and galleries
Einsteinturm (Potsdam) 41, Monuments and statues (general) 278–9, 281
206 Bismarck 136 Berlin’s Best 34–7
Kunstbibliothek 121 Column of Peace 148 for children 274, 275
Mendelssohn, Moses 87, 104, Gedenkstätte Berliner eating in 245, 246–7
105 Mauer 113 Museums and galleries
Centrum Judaicum 104 Gedenkstätte Grosse (individual)
grave 106 Hamburger Strasse 103, Ägyptisches Museum 36,
Jüdisches Museum Berlin 105 81, 168
146 Gedenkstätte Plötzensee Alliiertenmuseum 37, 186
Mendelssohn-Bartholdy, Felix 180 Alte Nationalgalerie 36, 41,
104 Holocaust Denkmal 12, 13, 74, 80
grave 148 69 Altes Museum 10, 26, 35,
Maxim Gorki Theater 71 Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis- 36, 41, 75, 77
Menzel, Adolph von 27 Kirche 10, 12, 13, 156–7 Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse
Alte Nationalgalerie 80 Luftbrücke 43 13, 71
Borussia (Prussia) 21 Memorial to Soviet Soldiers Bauhaus-Archiv 36, 44, 131
Flute Concert 24 42 Belvedere 168
Potsdamer Platz 133 Neue Wache 41, 59, 62 Berlinische Galerie 36, 145
Mercié, Antonin Red Army 182 Bildergalerie (Potsdam) 36,
Gloria Victis 60 Reiterdenkmal Friedrichs 195, 200
Messegeländ 178–9 des Grossen 58, 63 Bode-Museum 36, 74, 81
Messel, Alfred Reiterdenkmal des Grossen Botanisches Museum 186
Haus Springer 189 Kurfürsten 162, 166 Brecht-Weigel
Kaufhaus Wertheim 135 Schiller 13, 57 Gedenkstätte 37
Neue Schönhauser Strasse Siegessäule 11, 136–7 Bröhan-Museum 13, 36, 169
107 Sowjetisches Ehrenmal 139 Brücke-Museum (Dahlem)
Pergamonmuseum 82 Moore, Charles 180 36, 184, 215
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
C/O Berlin 154 Karl-Marx-Allee 174–5 Stasi-Museum 37
Centrum Judaicum 37, 102, Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum Topographie des Terrors 10,
104 152, 158 12, 13, 37, 142, 144–5
Chinesisches Haus Kulturforum 18 Villenkolonie Alsen 189
(Potsdam) 195, 199 Kunstbibliothek 118, 121 Music
Daimler Contemporary 135 Kunstgewerbemuseum 34, classical music and dance
DDR Museum 94 36, 118, 122–5, 183 266–7
Deutsch-Russisches Kunsthaus Dahlem 185 festivals 50, 51, 52
Museum (Berlin-Karlshorst) Kupferstichkabinett 36, 118, Kammermusiksaal 45, 46,
183 121 120–21
Deutsche Bank KunstHalle Lapidarium 148 Konzerthaus 67
58, 63 Märkisches Museum 86 Maxim Gorki Theater 71
Deutscher Dom 67 Marstall (Filmmuseum, musicals 262–3
Deutsches Historisches Potsdam) 206 Musikinstrumenten-
Museum 10, 35, 37, 59, Martin-Gropius-Bau 10, 13, Museum 37, 119, 120
60–61 142, 144 Philharmonie 46, 119,
Deutsches Technikmuseum Museum Alltagsgeschichte 120–21
Berlin 11, 35, 37, 148 der DDR 108 rock, jazz and world music
Domäne Dahlem 37, 185 Museum of the Ancient 268–9
East Side Gallery 43, 175 Near East 84–5 shops 254, 255
Ephraim-Palais 93 Museum für Asiatische see also Opera
Ethnologisches Museum Kunst 37, 185 Musicals 262–3
37, 185 Museum Berggruen 13, 36, Musikfest Berlin 52
Filmuseum Berlin 12, 13, 37, 168–9 Musikinstrumenten-Museum
132 Museum der Charité 112 120
Forschungs- und Museum Europäischer Street-by-Street map 119
Gedenkstätte Kulturen 37, 185 Musil, Robert 64
Normannenstrasse 175 Museum für Muthesius, Hermann 214
Galgenhaus 87 Kommunikation 37, 68
Gedenkstätte Berlin- Museum für Naturkunde N
Hohenschönhausen 174 37, 113 Nagel, Otto 86
Gemäldegalerie 12, 13, 34, Museum of Islamic Art 37, Nahl, Johann August 202
36, 45, 46, 118, 126–9 85 Nantes, Edict of 23
Georg-Kolbe-Museum 178 Museum Scharf- Napoleon Bonaparte 26, 201
Hamburger Bahnhof 35, 36, Gerstenberg 13, 168 Leipziger Platz 135
114–15 Museumsdorf Düppel 189 Quadriga 69
Haus am Checkpoint Musikinstrumenten- Viktoriapark 49, 149
Charlie 10, 12, 13, 37, 43, Museum 37, 119, 120 National Assembly 30
142, 145 Neue Nationalgalerie 12, Natural History Museum see
Haus der Wannsee- 36, 46, 118, 130 Museum für Naturkunde
Konferenz 37, 188–9 Neuer Flügel 162, 166 Nazarene Brotherhood 80
Hemp Museum Neues Museum 10, 12, 36, Nazis
(Hanfmuseum) 91 74, 80 book-burning 59, 64
Historischer Hafen Newton-Sammlung 36, 155 Gedenkstätte Plötzensee 180
Berlin 81 Nikolaikirche 12, 13, 90, 93 rise of 30
Hugenottenmuseum 37, 66 Pergamonmuseum 10, 12, Sachsenhausen Museum
Jagdschloss Grunewald 11, 30, 35, 36, 74, 82–5 181
36, 40, 215 Potsdam-Museum 206 Topographie des Terrors 10,
Jüdisches Museum Berlin Sachsenhausen Museum 12, 13, 144–5
12, 13, 35, 37, 46, 140, 143, 181 Wannsee Conference
146–7 Sammlung Boros 109 (1942) 188–9
Nazis (cont.) Neumann, Johann Balthasar North of the Centre (cont.)

World War II 31 121 restaurants 233–5
Negri, Pola 155 New Museum see Neues Scheunenviertel: Street-by-
Neo-classical architecture Museum Street map 102–3
40–41 New National Gallery see North German Confederation
Neptunenbrunnen 28, 88, 94 Neue Nationalgalerie 27
Nering, Johann Arnold New Synagogue see Neue Northeast Berlin 172–5
Gerichtslaube 94 Synagoge map 172
Köpenick 183 New Year’s Eve 53 Northwest Berlin 176–81
Marstall (Potsdam) 206 Newman, Barnett 130 map 176
Parochialkirche 99 Newspapers 287 Nouvel, Jean
Schloss Charlottenburg 40, Newton, Helmut Friedrichstadtpassagen 46
164 Newton-Sammlung 36, Galeries Lafayette 45, 67
Schloss Friedrichsfelde 182 155 November Revolution (1918)
Schloss Schönhausen 172 Nicholas I, Tsar 27
Zeughaus 60 Nikolskoe 209, 211
Neue Kammern (Potsdam) Orangerie (Potsdam) 199 O
200 Nicholas II, Tsar 144 Oberbaumbrücke 175
Street-by-Street map 195 Nicolai, Christoph Friedrich Observatories
Neue Nationalgalerie 87 Archenhold Sternwarte 182
12, 130 Nicolai-Haus 87 Oder river 23
Berlin’s Best: Modern Niemeyer, Oskar 137 Olbricht, Friedrich 131
Architecture 46 Niemöller, Martin 184 Old Jewish Cemetery see
Berlin’s Best: Museums and Nikolaikirche 92–3 Alter Jüdischer Friedhof
Galleries 36 Berlin’s Best: Historic Old Library see Alte
Street-by-Street map 118 Architecture 40 Bibliothek
Neue Schönhauser Strasse Great days in Berlin 12, 13 Old National Gallery see Alte
107 Street-by-Street map 90 Nationalgalerie
Neue Synagoge 100, 104 Nikolaikirche (Potsdam) Old Palace see Altes Palais
Street-by-Street map 102 205 Olympia-Stadion 31
Neue Wache 62 Nikolaiviertel 92 Berlin’s Best: Historic
Berlin’s Best: Historic Berlin’s Best: Modern Architecture 41
Architecture 41 Architecture 46 Olympic Games (1936)
Street-by-Street map 59 Great days in Berlin 12, 13 30, 41
Neuer Flügel 166 Street-by-Street map 90–91 Olympiastadion 178
Street-by-Street map 162 Nikolskoe Onkel-Tom-Siedlung 186
Neuer Garten (Potsdam) 201 Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe Onkel-Toms-Hütte
Neuer Landtag 205 walk 210–11 Berlin’s Best: Historic
Neuer Pavillon (Schinkel- Nolde, Emil Architecture 41
Pavillon) 166–7 Brücke-Museum (Dahlem) Open-air cinemas 264, 265
Neuer See 11, 136 36, 184 Open-air concerts 267
Neues Museum 80 Nordische Botschaften Opening hours 278
Berlin’s Best: Museums and Berlin’s Best: Modern restaurants 227
Galleries 36 Architecture 44 shops 250
Great days in Berlin 10, 12 North of the Centre Opening of the Reichstag
Street-by-Street map 74 101–15 (Werner) 29
Neues Palais (Potsdam) area map 101 Opera 266, 267
196–7 Dorotheenstädtischer Komische Oper 70
Berlin’s Best: Historic Friedhof 110–11 Staatsoper Unter den
Architecture 38 Hamburger Bahnhof Linden 59, 65
Street-by-Street map 194 114–15 Orangerie (Potsdam) 199
Neuköllner Maientage 50 hotels 222–5 Street-by-Street map 195
Oranienburger Strasse 104–5 Palaces (cont.) Pechstein, Max

Orth, August 173 Stadtschloss 76 Brücke-Museum (Dahlem)
Ottmer, Karl Theodor 71 Wrangel-Schlösschen 187 36, 184
Otto, Paul 62 Palais see Palaces Pei, Cobb, Freed & Partners 67
Owens, Jesse 30 Panorama Punkt 134 Pei, IM 59
Panowsky family 173 People’s Theatre see
P Pariser Platz 23, 69 Volksbühne
Paganini, Niccolò 71 Berlin’s Best: Modern Perfumes 252–3
Palace of Tears see Architecture 46 Pergamonmuseum 30, 82–5
Tränenpalast Pariser Platz in Berlin Berlin’s Best: Museums and
Palaces (Kokoschka) 69 Galleries 35, 36
concerts in 267 Parking 219, 293 classical antiquities 84
Altes Palais 58, 64 Parks and gardens floorplan 82–3
Ephraim-Palais 12, 90, 93 Alter Jüdischer Friedhof Great days in Berlin 10, 12
Glienicke 212 103 Museum of the Ancient
Jagdschloss Grunewald 11, Berlin’s Best 48–9 Near East 84–5
215 Botanischer Garten 48, 186 Museum of Islamic Art 85
Kleines Schloss 213 Garden of Exile 147 Street-by-Street map 74
Kronprinzenpalais 59, 65 Gutspark Britz 48 Visitors’ checklist 83
Marmorpalais (Potsdam) Köllnischer Park 86 Permoser, Balthasar 76
204 Lustgarten 23, 75, 76 Persius, Ludwig 41
Neues Palais (Potsdam) 38, Mauerpark 174 Friedenskirche (Potsdam)
194, 196–7 Monbijoupark 49, 103, 105 199
Palais am Festungsgraben Neuer Garten (Potsdam) Glienicke Palace 212
71 201 Klosterhof 212
Palais Münze 91, 93 Park Babelsberg (Potsdam) Nikolaikirche (Potsdam) 205
Palais Podewils 40, 99 48 Orangerie (Potsdam) 199
Palais Schwerin 91, 93 Park Sanssouci (Potsdam) Park Sanssouci (Potsdam)
Prinzessinnenpalais 65 194–5, 198 198
Schloss Babelsberg 41, 208, Schloss Charlottenburg 48, Römische Bäder (Potsdam)
213 163 199
Schloss Bellevue 11, 38, 40, Schloss Schönhausen Stibadium 212
137 172 Wasserwerk Sanssouci
Schloss Britz 183 Schlosspark 167 (Potsdam) 206
Schloss Cecilienhof Tiergarten 12, 13, 49, 136 Personal security 282–3
(Potsdam) 201 Tierpark Friedrichsfelde 49, Pesne, Antoine
Schloss Charlottenburg 13, 182–3 Frederick the Great 24
18, 23, 25, 38, 40, 48, 162, Treptower Park 182 Peter und Paul Kirche
164–5 Viktoriapark 19, 49, 149 (Potsdam) 204
Schloss Charlottenhof Volkspark Friedrichshain Schloss Sanssouci
(Potsdam) 194, 198 173 (Potsdam) 203
Schloss Friedrichsfelde Zoologischer Garten 48 Peter und Paul Kirche
182–3 Parochialkirche 99 (Potsdam) 204
Schloss Klein Glienicke 41 Berlin’s Best: Historic Petschnigg, Hubert 154
Schloss Köpenick 40, 183 Architecture 40 Pfaueninsel 11, 13
Schloss Pfaueninsel 210 Parschenkessel bay Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe
Schloss Sanssouci Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe walk 210–11
(Potsdam) 11, 38, 40, 192, walk 211 Pharmacies 282, 283
195, 202–3 Passports 278 Philharmonie 118, 120–21
Schloss Schönhausen 40, Patisseries 258, 259 Berlin’s Best: Modern
172 Peacock Island see Architecture 46
Schloss Tegel 41, 180–81 Pfaueninsel Street-by-Street map 119
Philipp der Grossmütige Portrait of Hieronymus Q

statue of 78 Holzschuher (Dürer) 126 Quadriga 26, 39, 69, 86
Phillip II, Prince 124 Portrait of Lady Sunderlin Quartier Schützenstrasse
Phones, mobile 286, 287 (Reynolds) 129 Berlin’s Best: Modern
Phrase book 350–52 Postal services 287 Architecture 45, 46
Piano, Renzo Museum für Quesnay, Abraham 66
Daimler Quartier 134 Kommunikation 68 Quirnheim, Ritter Mertz von
Debis-Haus 47, 135 Postfuhramt 131
Theater am Potsdamer Street-by-Street
Platz 133 map 102 R
Picasso, Pablo Potsdam 193–207 Rabe, Martin Friedrich 211
Bröhan-Museum 36 festivals 52 Racing, horse 273
Gemäldegalerie 130 Filmpark Babelsberg 11, Radio 287
Head of the Faun 36 207 Railway stations
Museum Berggruen map 193 Anhalter Bahnhof 144
168–9 Neues Palais 196–7 Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse
Woman in a Hat 169 palaces 38 13, 71
Pieck, Wilhelm Park Sanssouci: Street-by- Grunewald 214
Schloss Schönhausen 172 Street map 194–5 Hamburger Bahnhof
Torstrasse 107 town gates 205 114–15
Treptower Park 182 Potsdam, Edict of (1685) Railways see Trains
Piero della Francesca 129 23 Rainfall 52
Pilsner 230 Potsdam Conference (1945) Ramler, Karl Wilhelm 87
Piranesi, Giovanni Battista 31, 201 Raphael
168 Potsdam-Museum 206 Gemäldegalerie 129
Piscator, Erwin 107 Potsdamer Platz 132–5 Orangerie (Potsdam) 199
Planck, Max 63 Berlin’s Best: Modern Raschdorff, Julius
Planetariums Architecture 47 Berliner Dom 11, 41, 78
Archenhold Sternwarte 182 Great days in Berlin Technische Universität 159
Zeiss-Grossplanetarium 12, 13 Ratha us see Rotes Rathaus
174 Historic Potsdamer Platz Rathaus Schöneberg 187
Plotzensee Memorial see 133 Rathenau, Emil 147
Gedenkstätte Plötzensee Potsdamer Platz Arkaden Rattle, Sir Simon 121
Podewils Palace see Palais 133 Rauch, Christian Daniel
Podewils Poussin, Nicolas 129 Alte Nationalgalerie 80
Poelzig, Hans Prater 108 Column of Peace 148
Friedrichstadtpalast 112 Prenzlauer Berg 13, 101 Gipsformerei Berlin 167
Haus des Rundfunks 41, Princesses’ Palace see Mausoleum 167
179 Prinzessinnenpalais Reiterdenkmal Friedrichs
Police 282, 283 Print Gallery see des Grossen 58, 63
Pollaiuolo, Antonio del Kupferstichkabinett Schloss Charlottenburg 163
129 Prinzessinnenpalais 65 Schloss Tegel 181
Pop-Kultur 51 Private rooms, Viktoriapark 149
Porcelain accommodation in 219, Villa von der Heydt 131
Königliche Porzellan- 221 Raule, Benjamin von 182
Manufaktur 125, 137, 168, Public conveniences Rauschenberg, Robert
203 279 First Time Painting 114
Portoghesi, Paolo 180 Public holidays 53 Riding Bikes 135
Portrait of Charlotte Berend in Pückler-Muskau, Hermann Red Army
a White Dress (Corinth) 29 von 212 Treptower Park monument
Portrait of Georg Gisze Puiforcat, Jean 125 182
(Holbein) 128 Puni, Iwan 145 Redon, Odilon 168
Reformation 22 Ribbeckhaus 81 Sagebiel, Ernst

Regierungsviertel 138 Berlin’s Best: Historic Ehemaliges
Reichstag 31, 138–9 Architecture 40 Regierungsviertel 68
Berlin’s Best: Historic Richter, Hans 107 Flughafen Tempelhof 149
Architecture 38, 41 Richtkräfte (Beuys) 114 St-Annen-Kirche (Dahlem)
Berlin’s Best: Modern Riding Bikes (Rauschenberg) 184
Architecture 46 135 Berlin’s Best: Historic
fire 30 Riehmer, Wilhelm 149 Architecture 40
Great days in Berlin 12, 13 Riehmers Hofgarten 28, 148–9 St George Slaying the Dragon
Opening of the Reichstag Riemenschneider, Tilman 81 Street-by-Street map 90
29 Rihestein, Michael St-Hedwigs-Kathedrale 64–5
Reinhardt, Max 30, 112 Crucifixion 96 Street-by-Street map 59
Deutsches Theater 112 Röbel, Ehrentreich and Anna St-Matthäus-Kirche 121
Friedrichstadtpalast 109 von Street-by-Street map 119
Reiterdenkmal Friedrichs des tomb 97 St-Nikolai-Kirche (Spandau)
Grossen 58, 63 Rock music 268, 269 Berlin’s Best: Historic
Reiterdenkmal des Grossen Rode, Christian Bernhard 97 Architecture 40
Kurfürsten 166 Rodtschenko, Alexander 145 Saints Peter and Paul
Street-by-Street map 162 Roentgen, Abraham and (Nikolskoe)
Religious services 281 David 204 Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe
Rembrandt Romanticism 26 walk 211
Gemäldegalerie 36, 129 architecture 40–41 Sales 251
Hendrickje Stoffels 127 Rombaux, Egide 123 Salinger, Alfred 180
Kupferstichkabinett 121 Römer, Christoph 40 Salvisberg, Otto Rudolf 186
Reni, Guido 200 Römische Bäder (Potsdam) Salzenberg, Wilhelm 204
Renoir, Pierre Auguste 130 199 Sammlung Boros 109
Replica Workshop see Street-by-Street map 194 Sanssouci, Schloss see
Gipsformerei Berlin Rondell see Mehringplatz Schloss Sanssouci
Responsible tourism 280–81 Rossi, Aldo (Potsdam)
Restaurants 226–47 Quartier Schützenstrasse Sapper, Richard 125
booking 227 45, 46 Sattler, Christoph
children in 227 Rotes Rathaus 19, 92 Gemäldegalerie 45,
disabled travellers 227 Berlin’s Best: Historic 46, 128
The Flavours of Berlin 228–9 Architecture 39, 41 Museum Berggruen 168
light meals and snacks Street-by-Street map 91 Sauer, Wilhelm 78
244–7 Royal Stables see Marstall Saunas
menus 227 Rubens, Peter Paul in hotels 219
opening hours 227 Bildergalerie (Potsdam) 200 Savignyplatz 11, 13, 158
prices and tipping 226–7 Gemäldegalerie 129 Schadow, Johann Gottfried
smoking 227 Jagdschloss Grunewald 215 87
what to eat 226 Ruble, John 180 Alte Nationalgalerie 80
see also Food and drink Rühmann, Heinz 132 Dorotheenstädtischer
Reunification 31 Russische Botschaft 70 Friedhof 110
Reuter, Ernst 186 Ruysdael, Salomon van Palais Münze 91, 93
Reutsch, Ernst 178 Dutch Landscape with a Quadriga 69, 86
Reviews, entertainment Raid 128 Universität der Künste 158
262–3 Schaper, Fritz
Reynolds, Sir Joshua S bust of Hermann Wentzel
Portrait of Lady Sunderlin S-Bahn 27, 29, 296–7 110
129 map Back endpaper Schaper, Hermann
Ribbeck, Hans Georg von Sachsenhausen Museum 181 Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-
81 Safety 282–3 Kirche 153, 156
Scharoun, Hans Schinkel, Karl Friedrich (cont.) Schloss Schönhausen 172

Kammermusiksaal 45, 121 Schloss Tegel 41, 181 Berlin’s Best: Historic
Mehringplatz 143 Schlossbrücke 76, 139 Architecture 40
Musikinstrumenten- Viktoriapark 149 Schloss Tegel 180–81
Museum 120 Schlegel, August-Wilhelm Berlin’s Best: Historic
Philharmonie 46, 118, 120 von 26 Architecture 41
Staatsbibliothek 119, 120 Schlegel, Friedrich von 26 Schlossbrücke 12, 76, 139
Schaudt, Emil 159 Schleusenbrücke 139 Street-by-Street map 75
Scheibe, Richard Schloss Babelsberg 208 Schlosspark 167
Bendlerblock 131 Berlin’s Best: Historic Schlossplatz 76
Fortuna 165 Architecture 41 Street-by-Street map 75
Scheidemann, Philipp 30, Glienicke and Babelsberg Schlossstrasse Villas 169
138 walk 212–13 Schlüter, Andreas 25
Scheunenviertel 101 Schloss Bellevue 11, 137 Berliner Dom 79
Street-by-Street map 102–3 Berlin’s Best: Historic Ephraim-Palais 93
Schiaparelli, Elsa 125 Architecture 38, 40 Marienkirche 97
Schiller, Friedrich Schloss Britz 183 Nikolaikirche 93
Deutsches Theater 112 Schloss Cecilienhof Reiterdenkmal des Grossen
statue of monument 13, 57, (Potsdam) 201 Kurfürsten 162, 166
66, 67 Schloss Charlottenburg 18, Schlossplatz 76
Schimansky, Hanns 145 23, 25, 162, 164–5 Stadtschloss 40
Schinkel, Karl Friedrich 26, Berlin’s Best: Historic Zeughaus 39, 60
40–41, 175, 181 Architecture 38, 40 Schmalz, Otto 98
Alte Nationalgalerie 80 Berlin’s Best: Parks and Schmidt-Rottluff, Karl
Altes Museum 35, 41, 77 Gardens 48 Brücke-Museum (Dahlem)
Dorotheenstädtischer floorplan 164–5 184
Friedhof 110 Great days in Berlin 13 Farm in Daugart 130
Französische Kirche Schlosspark 167 Schmieden, Heino 144
(Potsdam) 205 Visitors’ checklist 165 Schmohl, Eugen 180
Friedrichswerdersche Schloss Charlottenburg area Schneidereit, Bruno 183
Kirche 41, 59, 65 161–9 Schongauer, Martin
Glienicke Palace 212 area map 161 Birth of Christ 126, 128
grave 111 hotels 223 Schönhausen, Schloss 172
Kavalierhaus 210 restaurants 238–9 Berlin’s Best: Historic
Konzerthaus 39, 41, 67 Street-by-Street map 162–3 Architecture 40
Leipziger Platz 135 Schloss Charlottenhof Schopenhauer, Arthur 26
Luisenkirche 169 (Potsdam) 198 Schott, Walter 78
Lustgarten 76 Street-by-Street map 194 Schultes, Axel 46, 138
Mausoleum 167 Schloss Friedrichsfelde 182–3 Schulz, Friedrich 68
Maxim Gorki Theater 71 Schloss Klein Glienicke Schulze-Naumburg, Paul 201
Neue Wache 41, 62 Berlin’s Best: Historic Schuster, Eleonor 123
Neuer Pavillon (Schinkel- Architecture 41 Schütte, Hans 183
Pavillon) 166–7 Schloss Köpenick 183 Schwechten, Franz
Nikolaikirche (Potsdam) 205 Berlin’s Best: Historic Anhalter Bahnhof 144
Palais am Festungsgraben Architecture 40 Grunewaldturm 189
71 Schloss Pfaueninsel 210 Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-
Römische Bäder (Potsdam) Schloss Sanssouci (Potsdam) Kirche 41, 156
199 192, 202–3 Kulturbrauerei 108
Schloss Babelsberg 41, 213 Berlin’s Best: Historic Schweitzer, Heinrich 71
Schloss Charlottenhof Architecture 38, 40 Schwerin, Otto von 93
(Potsdam) 198 Great days in Berlin 11 Sechs-Tage-Rennen 53
Schloss Klein Glienicke 41 Street-by-Street map 195 Seeling, Heinrich 109
Sehring, Bernhard 155 Sophie Charlotte, Queen Stables, Royal see Marstall
Seitz, Gustav 110 Schloss Charlottenburg 18, Staatsbibliothek 63, 120
Semnones 21 159, 161, 164 Berlin’s Best: Historic
Sergievski, Nicolai 139 tomb 79 Architecture 41
Seven Years’ War (1756–63) Sophie Luisa, Queen 103, 106 Berlin’s Best: Modern
23 Sophienkirche 106 Architecture 46
Shell-Haus 130 Street-by-Street map 103 Street-by-Street map 58,
Shoe shops 252, 253 Sophienstrasse 106 119
Shopping 250–59 Sottsass, Ettore 125 Staatsoper für alle 51
antiques and objets d’art Southeast Berlin 182–7 Staatsoper Unter den Linden
256–7 map 182 65
books and music 254, 255 Souvenir shops 254–5 Street-by-Street map 59
china and ceramics 254–5 Sowjetisches Ehrenmal 139 Staatsratsgebäude 76
clothes and accessories Spandau 177 Stadtgericht 98
252–3 Spandau Citadel see Zitadelle Stadthaus
department stores 250 Spandau Street-by-Street map 91
eating in shopping centres Spartacus League 106 Stadtmauer (Town Wall) 40,
245, 246 Spas, hotel 219 99
flowers 254, 255 Spectator sports 273 Stadtschloss 22, 23, 28, 76
food products 258–9 Speer, Albert Stahn, Otto
gifts and souvenirs 254–5 Diplomatenviertel 136 Gertraudenbrücke 87
how to pay 251 Ehemaliges Oberbaumbrücke 175
opening hours 250 Regierungsviertel 68 Stalin, Joseph 201
sales 251 Sammlung Boros 109 Stasi
shopping centres 250–51 Spielbank Berlin 133 Forschungs- und
specialist shops 255 Spindler, JF 197 Gedenkstätte
toys 254, 255 Spittelkolonnaden 68 Normannenstrasse (Stasi-
Siegessäule 11, 136–7 Sports 272–3 Museum) 37, 175
Siemering, Rudolf for children 275 Gedenkstätte Berlin-
statue of St Gertrude 87 Spree-Oder canal 23 Hohenschönhausen 174
Silvester (New Year) 53 Spree river 21 Statues see Monuments and
Simonetti, Giovanni 67 boat trips 298, 299 statues
Sittow, Michel 128 bridges 139 Stauffenberg, Claus Schenk
Slavic tribes 21 Spring in Berlin 50 von 131
Slevogt, Max 27 Springer, Axel 188 Stella, Franco 76
Smids, Michael Matthias Springer-Hochhaus Stella, Frank 130
81 Street-by-Street map 143 Sternberg, Josef von 132,
Smoking Squares 155, 187
in restaurants 227 Alexanderplatz 98 Stibadium
Snack bars 244, 246 Bebelplatz 13, 58–9, 64 Glienicke and Babelsberg
Snethlage, Captain Gendarmenmarkt 13, 31, walk 212
Alexandrowka (Potsdam) 66 Strack, Johann Heinrich
201 Kollwitzplatz 13, 107 Kronprinzenpalais 65
Blockhaus Nikolskoe 211 Leipziger Platz 23, 135 Siegessäule 136–7
Snyders, Frans 129 Marx-Engels-Forum 94 Stradivarius 120
Sobotka, Franz Heinrich Mehringplatz 23, 143, 148 Strandbad Wannsee 188
186 Pariser Platz 23, 46, 69 Straumer, Heinrich 179
Social customs and etiquette Potsdamer Platz 12, 13, 47, Strauss, Richard 65
279 132–3 Strizhevsky, Anatoli 70
Sony Center 13, 116, 134 Savignyplatz 11, 13, 158 Stubbins, Hugh
Berlin’s Best: Modern Schlossplatz 75, 76 Haus der Kulturen der Welt
Architecture 45 Squash 272, 273 46, 138
Studio cinemas 264, 265 Tegel airport 289 Tieck, Friedrich 149
Stüler, Friedrich August Tegel area 46 Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista
Alte Nationalgalerie 41, 80 Telegrafenberg (Potsdam) 129
Friedenskirche (Potsdam) 206 Tiergarten 136
199 Telephones 286, 287 Berlin’s Best: Parks and
Friedrichswerdersche Museum für Gardens 49
Kirche 65 Kommunikation 68 Great days in Berlin 11, 12,
grave 110 Television 287 13
Museum Scharf- Tempelhof Airport Tiergarten area 117–39
Gerstenberg 168 Berlin’s Best: Historic area map 117
Neues Museum 80 Architecture 41 Around the Kulturforum:
Nikolaikirche (Potsdam) 205 Temperatures 53 Street-by-Street map 118–
Orangerie (Potsdam) 199 Tennis 272, 273 19
Peter und Paul Kirche Thälmann, Ernst 174 Gemäldegalerie 126–9
(Potsdam) 204 Theatertreffen Berlin 50 Kunstgewerbemuseum
St-Matthäus-Kirche 121 Theatres 262–3 122–5
Saints Peter and Paul 211 Admiralspalast 71 hotels 222–5
Stumpff, General Hans- Berliner Ensemble 109 Potsdamer Platz 132–5
Jürgen 183 for children 274–5 restaurants 235–6
Summer in Berlin 51 Deutsches Theater 112 Tierpark Friedrichsfelde
Sunshine 51 festivals 50 182–3
Surrealists 168 Friedrichstadtpalast 109 Berlin’s Best: Parks and
Süss von Kulmbach, Hans Komische Oper 70 Gardens 49
128 Maxim Gorki Theater 71 Tiffany, Louis Comfort 125
Sweet shops 258, 259 Staatsoper Unter den Tigerman, Stanley 180
Swimming pools 272, 273 Linden 65 Time zones 280
Synagogues Theater am Potsdamer Tinguely, Jean 135
Jüdisches Gemeindehaus Platz 133 Tintoretto 129
152, 155 Theater des Westens 153, Tipping
Neue Synagoge 100, 102, 155 in hotels 218
104 Volksbühne 107 in restaurants 227
Synagoge Rykestrasse 108 Theft 282–3 Tischbein, Heinrich 128
Szabó, István 178 Theme parks Titian
Filmpark Babelsberg Gemäldegalerie 36
T (Potsdam) 11, 207 Venus and the Organ Player
Tag der Deutschen Einheit 52 Theyss, Caspar 40 129
Tauentzienstrasse 159 Thiel, Frank 145 Titz, Eduard 112
Taut, Bruno 30 Thirty Years’ War (1618–48) 22 Töbelmann, G 169
Hufeisensiedlung 41, 183 Thömer, Paul Toilets, public 279
Onkel-Tom-Siedlung 186 Kammergericht 187 Topographie des Terrors
Taxes Stadtgericht 98 144–5
in hotels 218 Thorwaldsen, Bertel 181 Berlin’s Best: Museums and
Taxis 295 Tickets Galleries 37
from airport 289 air travel 288 Great days in Berlin 10, 12,
Tea 231 for classical music and 13
Tearooms 245, 247 dance 267 Street-by-Street map 142
Technische Universität 27, for entertainment 260–61 Torstrasse 107
159 public transport 294, 295, Tourist information 278, 281
Techno clubs 270, 271 296 Tours, guided 279, 281
Tegel, Schloss 180–81 for rock, jazz and world Town halls
Berlin’s Best: Historic music 269 Altes Rathaus (Potsdam)
Architecture 41 for theatres 263 205
Town halls (cont.) Universities Voigt, Wilhelm 183

Rathaus Schöneberg 187 Freie Universität 186 Volk Ding Zero (Baselitz) 115
Rotes Rathaus 19, 39, 41, Humboldt Universität 26, Volksbühne 107
91, 92 58, 62–3 Volkspark Friedrichshain 173
Town Wall see Stadtmauer Technische Universität 27, Vollhering, Wilhelm 108
Toy shops 254, 255 159 Vollmer, Johannes
Trains 290, 291 Universität der Künste Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse 71
from airport 289 158–9 Hakescher Markt Station 29
S-Bahn 296–7 Unter den Linden 62
U-Bahn 296–7 Great days in Berlin 12, 13 W
Trams 295 history 23 Waesemann, Hermann
Tränenpalast 71 Street-by-Street map 59 Friedrich 41, 92
Reminders of the Divided Unter den Linden (Fechhelm) Wagener, JHW 130
City 43 61 Wagner, Martin 41
Transmediale 53 Unter den Linden area Wagner, Richard
Travel 288–99 57–71 statue of 136
air 288–9 area map 57 Walks 209–15
boats 298–9 Bebelplatz: Street-by-Street Berlin on foot 292, 293
buses 294–5 map 58–9 Glienicke and Babelsberg
cars 291, 292–3 hotels 222–5 walk 212–13
coaches 291 restaurants 232–3 Grunewald 214–15
green travel 292 Zeughaus (Deutsches Pfaueninsel and Nikolskoe
public transport at night Historisches Museum) 210–11
261 60–61 Wallot, Paul
S-Bahn 296–7 Kunstbibliothek 121
taxis 295 V Reichstag 38, 41, 138
tickets 294 Van Gogh, Vincent 169 Wannsee 11, 13, 188–9
trains 290, 291 Velázquez, Diego 129 map 188
trams 295 Velde, Henri van der Wannsee Conference (1942)
U-Bahn 296–7 Bröhan-Museum 169 30, 31, 188–9
Travel insurance 283 Kunstgewerbemuseum Warhol, Andy 35
Treffen Junge Musik-Szene 52 125 Mao 115
Treptower Park 182 Venus and the Organ Player Wasserturm 108
Truman, Harry 201 (Titian) 129 Wasserwerk Sanssouci
Tschirnhaus, Ehrenfried Vermeer, Jan 129 (Potsdam) 206
Walther von 125 The Glass of Wine 127 Watteau, Jean-Antoine
Verrocchio, Andrea del 129 Fêtes Galantes 203
U Vienna, Congress of (1815) Gemäldegalerie 127, 129
U-Bahn 296–7 26 Gersaint’s Shop Sign 165
map Back endpaper Viktoriapark 19, 149 Kupferstichkabinett 121
UFA film studios 30, 155 Berlin’s Best: Parks and Love in the French Theatre
Ullman, Micha 64 Gardens 49 127
Umberto I, King of Italy 144 Villa Borsig 180 Love in the Italian Theatre 25
Unger, Georg Christian Villa von der Heydt 131 Weather 50–53
Alte Bibliothek 64 Villenkolonie Alsen 189 Wedding 180
Brandenburger Tor Virchow, Rudolf Wedgwood 204
(Potsdam) 205 Charité 112 Weidendammer Brücke 139
Neue Kammern (Potsdam) Humboldt Universität 63 Weigel, Helene
200 Virgil 126 Berliner Ensemble 109
Ungers, Oswald Mathias Visas 278 Brecht-Weigel-
Friedrichstadtpassagen 46 Vogel, Henriette 189 Gedenkstätte 112
“The Q” 67 Vohl, Carl 187 grave 110
Weihnachtsmärkte 53 Wilhelm II, Kaiser (cont.) Y

Weimar, Duchess of 203 Neptunenbrunnen 28 Youth groups,
Weimar Republic 30 Opening of the Reichstag accommodation 221
Wenders, Wim 133 29 Youth hostels 220, 221
Wentzel, Hermann Pergamonmuseum 83, 84, Yudell, Buzz 180
grave 110 85
St-Matthäus-Kirche 121 portrait of 29 Z
Werner, Anton von Wilmersdorff, Cuno Johann Zehlendorf 184
Berliner Dom 79 von 185 map 184
Opening of the Reichstag 29 Windmill Zeiss-Grossplanetarium
Siegessäule 137 Historische Mühle 174
Universität der Künste 158 (Potsdam) 200 Zelter, Karl Friedrich 87
Westphal, Ernst Wines 231 Zeughaus (Deutsches
Admiralspalast 71 shopping 258, 259 Historisches Museum)
Berliner Ensemble 109 wine bars 248, 249 10, 60–61
Westroem, Ute 144 Winter in Berlin 53 Berlin’s Best: Historic
Weyden, Rogier van der 128 Wisniewski, Edgar Architecture 39, 40
Weydinger, Johann 71 Kammermusiksaal 45, 121 Berlin’s Best: Museums and
Wheelchair access see Musikinstrumenten- Galleries 35, 37
Disabled travellers Museum 120 history 23, 25
Wichmann, Ludwig 149 Staatsbibliothek 120 Street-by-Street map
Wiegand, Theodor 84 Wittenau 185 59
Wiene, Robert 155 Wolff, Albert 148 Zeughaus (Fechhelm) 25
Wilhelm I, Kaiser 26–7 Woman in a Hat (Picasso) 169 Zhukov, Marshal 183
Altes Palais 58, 64 World music 268–9 Zille, Heinrich 86
death 29 World War I 27 Zionskirche 108–9
Grunewaldturm 170, 189 World War II 30, 31 Zitadelle Spandau 177
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis- Haus der Wannsee- Berlin’s Best: Historic
Kirche 157 Konferenz 37 Architecture 40
Mausoleum 167 Holocaust Denkmal 12, 13, Zoos
Neue Nationalgalerie 130 69 Kinderbauernhof Auf dem
Schloss Babelsberg 213 Potsdam Conference 201 Görlitzer 274, 275
Wilhelm II, Kaiser Topographie des Terrors 37 Tierpark Friedrichsfelde 49,
abdication 27 Worm, Joachim 122 183
Anhalter Bahnhof 144 Wrangel, Field Marshal 187 Zoo Berlin 10, 12, 13, 26, 48,
Gethsemanekirche 173 Wrangel-Schlösschen 187 153, 154, 274, 275
Kaisersaal 134 Wuczeticz, Jewgien 182 Zuckmayer, Carl 183
348  ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following Deutsches Historisches Museum; Elke Pfeil of the Brecht-
people whose contributions and assistance have made Weigel-Museum; Ingrid Flindell of the Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum;
the preparation of this book possible. Sylvia U Moller of Villa Kastania; Manuel Volsk of the Savoy
Hotel; Sabine Rogge of the Grand Hotel Esplanade Berlin;
Design and Editorial Claude Borrmann of the Hotel Palace Berlin; Gerald Uhligow of
Managing Art Editor Kate Poole the Einstein Café; Hotel Adlon; Hotel Brandenburger
Editorial Director Vivien Crump Hof and Restaurant Die Quadriga; Hotel Kempinski;
Art Director Gillian Allan Rockendorf’s Restaurant; The Westin Grand Hotel.
Consultant Gordon McLachlan
Factcheckers Jürgen Scheunemann, Petra Falkenberg Photography Permissions
Translators Magda Hannay, Anna Johnson, Ian Wisniewski Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following for their
Proofreader Stewart Wild kind permission to photograph at their establishments:
Indexer Hilary Bird Margaret Hilmer of the Berliner Dom; Kaiser-Wilhelm-
Revisions Team Louise Abbott, Namrata Adhwaryu, Ashwin Gedächtniskirche; Galeries Lafayette; KaDeWe; Frau Schneider
Raju Adimari, Asad Ali, Gillian Andrews, Brigitte Arora, Claire of BVG (Berlin Underground System); Deutsche Bundesbahn
Baranowski, Marta Bescos Sanchez, Tessa Bindloss, Arwen for allowing photography of the Zoo railway station;
Burnett, Divya Chowfin, Lucinda Cooke, Vidushi Duggal, Joel Dorotheenstädtischer Friedhof for allowing photographs of
Dullroy, Nicola Erdpresser, Petra Falkenberg, Emer FitzGerald, the tombs; Flughafen Schönefeld for allowing photography
Camilla Gersh, Mohammad Hassan, Kaberi Hazarika, Claudia of the airfield; Annie Silbert of the Zoologischer Garten Berlin
Himmelreich, Jessica Hughes, Claire Jones, Bharti Karakoti, for allowing photography of the animals and attractions;
Priya Kukadia, Priyanka Kumar, Rahul Kumar, Rakesh Kumar Hilton Hotel; Carlos Beck of the Sorat Art’otel, Berlin; Manuel
Pal, Maite Lantaron, Delphine Lawrance, Jude Ledger, Carly Volsk of the Savoy Hotel, Berlin; Sabine Rogge of the Grand
Madden, Franziska Marking, Kate Molan, Catherine Palmi, Hotel Esplanade; Claude Borrmann of the Hotel Palace Berlin;
Susie Peachey, Adrian Potts, Rada Radojicic, Akshay Rana, Erin Gerald Uhligow of the Einstein Café; the Olive restaurant; the
Richards, Ellen Root, Simon Ryder, Sands Publishing Solutions, Bamberger Reiter restaurant; Sklepo for allowing photo-
Ankita Sharma, Azeem Siddiqui, Rituraj Singh, Sadie Smith, graphy of its interiors and porcelain. Count Lehmann of
Annie Stein, Andrew Szudek, Maria Taari, Hollie Teague, Leah Senatsverwaltung für Bauen, Wohnen und Verkehr for
Tether, Helen Townsend, Conrad van Dyk, Ajay Verma, providing cartographic information as well as copyright for
Deepika Verma, Penny Walker, Hugo Wilkinson the use of maps; Ms Grazyna Kukowska of ZAIKS for her help
in securing permission to reproduce works of art.
DTP Samantha Borland, Lee Redmond
Additional Illustrations Paweł Pasternak Picture Credits
Additional Photography Amir Akhtar, Francesca a = above; b = below/bottom; c = centre; f = far; l = left;
Bondy, Diana Jarvis, Britta Jaschinski, Claire Jones, Catherine r = right; t = top.
Marshall, Ian O’Leary, Jürgen Scheunemann
Additional Text Joel Dullroy, Claudia Himmelreich, Works of art have been reproduced with the permission of
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350  Phrase book
Phrase Book
In an Emergency Making a Telephone Call
Where is the Wo ist das voh ist duss I would like Ich möchte ish mer-shtuh
telephone? telefon? tele-fon? to make a telefonieren tel-e-fon-eer’n
Help! Hilfe! hilf-uh phone call
Please call a Bitte rufen Sie bitt-uh roof’n zee I’ll try again Ich versuche es ish fair-zookh-uh
doctor einen Arzt ine-en artst later später noch einmal es shpay-ter nokh
Please call the Bitte rufen Sie bitt-uh roof’n zee ine-mull
police die Polizei dee poli-tsy Can I leave a Kann ich eine kan ish ine-uh
Please call the Bitte rufen Sie bitt-uh roof’n zee message? Nachricht nakh-risht
fire brigade die Feuerwehr dee foyer-vayr hinterlassen? hint-er-lahss-en
Stop! Halt! hult answer phone Anrufbeantworter an-roof-be-ahnt-
vort-er
Communication Essentials telephone card Telefonkarte tel-e-fohn-kart-uh
receiver Hörer hur-er
Yes Ja yah mobile Handy han-dee
No Nein nine engaged (busy) besetzt b’zetst
Please Bitte bitt-uh wrong number Falsche falsh-uh
Thank you Danke dunk-uh Verbindung fair-bin-doong
Excuse me Verzeihung fair-tsy-hoong
Hello (good day) Guten Tag goot-en tahk
Goodbye Auf Wiedersehen owf-veed-er-
Sightseeing
zay-ern library Bibliothek bib-leo-tek
Good evening Guten Abend goot’n ahb’nt entrance ticket Eintrittskarte ine-tritz-kart-uh
Good night Gute Nacht goot-uh nukht cemetery Friedhof freed-hofe
Until tomorrow Bis morgen biss morg’n train station Bahnhof barn-hofe
See you Tschüss chooss gallery Galerie gall-er-ree
What is that? Was ist das? voss ist duss information Auskunft owss-koonft
Why? Warum? var-room church Kirche keersh-uh
Where? Wo? voh garden Garten gart’n
When? Wann? vunn palace/castle Palast/Schloss pallast/shloss
today heute hoyt-uh place (square) Platz plats
tomorrow morgen morg’n bus stop Haltestelle hal-te-shtel-uh
month Monat mohn-aht national holiday Nationalfeiertag nats-yon-ahl-fire-
night Nacht nukht tahk
afternoon Nachmittag nahkh-mit-tahk theatre Theater tay-aht-er
morning Morgen morg’n free admission Eintritt frei ine-tritt fry
year Jahr yar
there dort dort Shopping
here hier hear
week Woche vokh-uh Do you have/ Gibt es…? geept ess
yesterday gestern gest’n Is there…?
evening Abend ahb’nt How much Was kostet das? voss kost’t duss?
does it cost?
When do you Wann vunn
Useful Phrases open/ öffnen Sie? off’n zee
How are you? Wie geht’s? vee gayts close? schliessen Sie? shlees’n zee
(informal) this das duss
Fine, thanks Danke, es geht dunk-uh, es gayt expensive teuer toy-er
mir gut meer goot cheap preiswert price-vurt
Until later Bis später biss shpay-ter size Grösse gruhs-uh
Where is/are? Wo ist/sind…? voh ist/sind number Nummer noom-er
How far is it to…? Wie weit ist es…? vee vite ist ess colour Farbe farb-uh
Do you speak Sprechen Sie shpresh’n zee brown braun brown
English? Englisch? eng-glish black schwarz shvarts
I don’t Ich verstehe nicht ish fair-shtay-uh red rot roht
understand nisht blue blau blau
Could you speak Könnten Sie kurnt-en zee green grün groon
more slowly? langsamer lung-zam-er yellow gelb gelp
sprechen? shpresh’n
Types of Shop
Useful Words antique shop Antiquariat antik-var-yat
large gross grohss chemist Apotheke appo-tay-kuh
small klein kline (pharmacy)
hot heiss hyce bank Bank bunk
cold kalt kult market Markt markt
good gut goot travel agency Reisebüro rye-zer-boo-roe
bad böse/schlecht burss-uh/shlesht department store Warenhaus vahr’n-hows
open geöffnet g’urff-nett chemist’s, Drogerie droog-er-ree
closed geschlossen g’shloss’n drugstore
left links links hairdresser Friseur freezz-er
right rechts reshts newspaper kiosk Zeitungskiosk tsytoongs-kee-osk
straight ahead geradeaus g’rah-der-owss bookshop Buchhandlung bookh-hant-loong
phrase book  351
bakery Bäckerei beck-er-eye Bockwurst bokh-voorst a type of sausage

post office Post posst Bohnensuppe burn-en-zoop-uh bean soup
shop/store Geschäft/Laden gush-eft/lard’n Branntwein brant-vine spirits
film processing Fotogeschäft fo-to-gush-eft Bratkartoffeln brat-kar-toff’ln fried potatoes
shop Bratwurst brat-voorst fried sausage
self-service Selbstbedienungs- selpst-bed-ee- Brot brot bread
shop laden nungs-lard’n Brötchen bret-tchen bread roll
shoe shop Schuhladen shoo-lard’n Brühe bruh-uh broth
clothes shop Kleiderladen, klyder-lard’n Butter boot-ter butter
Boutique boo-teek-uh Champignon shum-pin-yong mushroom
food shop Lebensmittel- lay-bens-mittel- Currywurst kha-ree-voorst sausage with
geschäft gush-eft curry sauce
glass, porcelain Glas, Porzellan glars, Dill dill dill
port-sell-ahn Ei eye egg
Eis ice ice/ ice cream
Ente ent-uh duck
Staying in a Hotel
Erdbeeren ayrt-beer’n strawberries
Do you have Haben Sie noch harb’n zee nokh Fisch fish fish
any vacancies? Zimmer frei? tsimm-er-fry Forelle for-ell-uh trout
with twin beds? mit zwei Betten? mitt tsvy bett’n Frikadelle Frika-dayl-uh rissole/hamburger
with a mit einem mitt ine’m Gans ganns goose
double bed? Doppelbett? dopp’l-bet Garnele gar-nayl-uh prawn/shrimp
with a bath? mit Bad? mitt bart gebraten g’braat’n fried
with a shower? mit Dusche? mitt doosh-uh gegrillt g’grilt grilled
I have a Ich habe eine ish harb-uh ine-uh gekocht g’kokht boiled
reservation Reservierung rez-er-veer-oong geräuchert g’rowk-ert smoked
key Schlüssel shlooss’l Geflügel g’floog’l poultry
porter Pförtner pfert-ner Gemüse g’mooz-uh vegetables
Grütze grurt-ser groats, gruel
Eating Out Gulasch goo-lush goulash
Gurke goork-uh gherkin
Do you have a Haben Sie einen harb’n zee Hammelbraten hamm’l-braat’n roast mutton
table for…? Tisch für…? tish foor Hähnchen haynsh’n chicken
I would like to Ich möchte eine ish mer-shtuh ine- Hering hair-ing herring
reserve a table Reservierung uh rezer-veer- Himbeeren him-beer’n raspberries
machen oong makh’n Honig hoe-nikh honey
I’m a vegetarian Ich bin Vegetarier ish bin vegg-er-tah- Kaffee kaf-fay coffee
ree-er Kalbfleisch kalp-flysh veal
Waiter! Herr Ober! hair oh-bare! Kaninchen ka-neensh’n rabbit
The bill (check), Die Rechnung, dee resh-noong Karpfen karpf’n carp
please bitte bitt-uh Kartoffelpüree kar-toff’l-poor-ay mashed potatoes
breakfast Frühstück froo-shtock Käse kayz-uh cheese
lunch Mittagessen mit-targ-ess’n Kaviar kar-vee-ar caviar
dinner Abendessen arb’nt-ess’n Knoblauch k’nob-lowkh garlic
bottle Flasche flush-uh Knödel k’nerd’l noodle
dish of the day Tagesgericht tahg-es-gur-isht Kohl koal cabbage
main dish Hauptgericht howpt-gur-isht Kopfsalat kopf-zal-aat lettuce
dessert Nachtisch nahkh-tish Krebs krayps crab
cup Tasse tass-uh Kuchen kookh’n cake
wine list Weinkarte vine-kart-uh Lachs lahkhs salmon
tankard Krug khroog Leber lay-ber liver
glass Glas glars mariniert mari-neert marinated
spoon Löffel lerff’l Marmelade marmer-lard-uh marmalade, jam
teaspoon Teelöffel tay-lerff’l Meerrettich may-re-tish horseradish
tip Trinkgeld trink-gelt Milch milsh milk
knife Messer mess-er Mineralwasser minn-er-arl-vuss-er mineral water
starter Vorspeise for-shpize-uh Möhre mer-uh carrot
(appetizer) Nuss nooss nut
the bill Rechnung resh-noong Öl erl oil
plate Teller tell-er Olive o-leev-uh olive
fork Gabel gahb’l Petersilie payt-er-zee-li-uh parsley
Pfeffer pfeff-er pepper
Pfirsich pfir-zish peach
Menu Decoder
Pflaumen pflow-men plum
Aal arl eel Pommes frites pomm-fritt chips/ French
Apfel upf’l apple fries
Apfelschorle upf’l-shoorl-uh apple juice with Quark kvark soft cheese
sparkling Radieschen ra-deesh’n radish
mineral water Rinderbraten rind-er-brat’n joint of beef
Apfelsine upf’l-seen-uh orange Rinderroulade rind-er-roo-lard-uh beef olive
Aprikose upri-kawz-uh apricot Rindfleisch rint-flysh beef
Artischocke arti-shokh-uh- artichoke Rippchen rip-sh’n cured pork rib
Aubergine or-ber-jeen-uh aubergine Rotkohl roht-koal red cabbage
(eggplant) Rüben rhoob’n turnip
Banane bar-narn-uh banana Rührei rhoo-er-eye scrambled eggs
Beefsteak beef-stayk steak Saft zuft juice
Bier beer beer Salat zal-aat salad
352  Phrase book
Salz zults salt 17 siebzehn zeep-tsayn

Salzkartoffeln zults-kar-toff’l boiled potatoes 18 achtzehn uhkht-tsayn
Sauerkirschen zow-er-keersh’n cherries 19 neunzehn noyn-tsayn
Sauerkraut zow-er-krowt sauerkraut 20 zwanzig tsvunn-tsig
Sekt zekt sparkling wine 21 einundzwanzig ine-oont-
Senf zenf mustard tsvunn-tsig
scharf sharf spicy 30 dreissig dry-sig
Schaschlik shash-lik kebab 40 vierzig feer-sig
Schlagsahne shlahgg-zarn-uh whipped cream 50 fünfzig foonf-tsig
Schnittlauch shnit-lowhkh chives 60 sechzig zex-tsig
Schnitzel shnitz’l veal or pork cutlet 70 siebzig zeep-tsig
Schweinefleisch shvine-flysh pork 80 achtzig uhkht-tsig
Spargel shparg’l asparagus 90 neunzig noyn-tsig
Spiegelei shpeeg’l-eye fried egg 100 hundert hoond’t
Spinat shpin-art spinach 1,000 tausend towz’nt
Tee tay tea 1,000, 000 eine Million ine-uh mill-yon
Tomate tom-art-uh tomato
Wassermelone vuss-er-me-lohn-uh watermelon Time
Wein vine wine one minute eine Minute ine-uh min-oot-uh
Weintrauben vine-trowb’n grapes one hour eine Stunde ine-uh shtoond-uh
Wiener Würstchen veen-er voorst-sh’n frankfurter half an hour eine halbe Stunde ine-uh hullb-uh
Zander tsan-der pike-perch shtoond-uh
Zitrone tsi-trohn-uh lemon Monday Montag mohn-targ
Zucker tsook-er sugar Tuesday Dienstag deens-targ
Zwieback tsvee-bak rusk Wednesday Mittwoch mitt-vokh
Zwiebel tsveeb’l onion Thursday Donnerstag donn-ers-targ
Friday Freitag fry-targ
Numbers Saturday Samstag/ zums-targ
Sonnabend zonn-ah-bent
0 null nool Sunday Sonntag zon-targ
1 eins eye’ns January Januar yan-ooar
2 zwei tsvy February Februar fay-brooar
3 drei dry March März mairts
4 vier feer April April april
5 fünf foonf May Mai my
6 sechs zex June Juni yoo-ni
7 sieben zeeb’n July Juli yoo-lee
8 acht uhkht August August ow-goost
9 neun noyn September September zep-tem-ber
10 zehn tsayn October Oktober ok-toh-ber
11 elf elf November November no-vem-ber
12 zwölf tserlf December Dezember day-tsem-ber
13 dreizehn dry-tsayn spring Frühling froo-ling
14 vierzehn feer-tsayn summer Sommer zomm-er
15 fünfzehn foonf-tsayn autumn (fall) Herbst hairpst
16 sechzehn zex-tsayn winter Winter vint-er

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Main Contributor Małgorzata Omilanowska

The information in this

Potsdam 192 Where to Stay 218 Practical Information 278

Three Guided Walks 208 Where to Eat Getting to Berlin 288

Entertainment in Berlin Street Finder 300

Phrase Book 350

Nikolaiviertel, with the Fernsehturm in

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Berlin Area by Area

BERLIN AREA BY AREA  57

AROUND UNTER DEN LINDEN

Colour-coded tabs help you find

A locator map shows where

you are in relation to other

DOROTHE maps 8 & 9

areas in the city centre.

Area Map Street-by-Street: Breitscheidplatz 6 Ludwig-Erhard-Haus

For easy reference, the sights in

and Ku’damm Kant-Dreieck

The area surrounding the eastern end of the containing only

each area are numbered and Ku’damm, especially Tauentzienstrasse and

map also shows U- and S-Bahn

stations, main bus and tram

stops, and parking areas. The

Some of the remaining

fragments of the old synagogue

have been incorporated into

area’s key sights are listed by

the façade of this building.

category, such as museums. good bookshop.

The museum is housed A

in one of the charming S

two entrances to the

This tranquil street features

Berlin Area Map

eight main sightseeing areas used

a full chapter in Berlin Area by Area

(see pp54–169). They are highlighted

on other maps throughout the

example, they help you locate

the top sights. They are also used Around

to help you find the position of Kreuzberg

three walks (see pp209–15).

86 І BERLIN AREA BY AREA MUSEUM ISLAND І 87

Am Köllnischen Park 5. Map 10 D4.

late 1970s, the

Story boxes provide

3 Detailed information on each sight

following the numbering on the Area

map reference, opening hours and Berliner Dom The Four

telephone numbers. The key to

the symbols used is on the back flap.

The Visitors’ Checklist provides

all the practical information

Sauer’s Organ Main

Stars indicate the sights that no

visitor should miss. the previous cathedral, is the work

4 Berlin’s major sights