TARTA DE FRESA AZUL Ingles

Plum Pudding A Strawberry Shortcake Doll
Crochet pattern by Carola Kaiser – amigurumi4ever –
Congratulations on your purchase of the Strawberry Shortcake Plum Pudding Doll pattern. I hope you
enjoy making your own doll.
Please do not sell or distribute the pattern or any images contained inside the pattern. Do not change the
instruction or upload it to the internet. You are allowed to sell your finished doll, provided you credit
me as the designer (Pattern by amigurumi4ever, https://amigurumi4ever.etsy.com).
------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

The pattern or parts of it may not be reproduced, published (online or printed), changed, resold, or redistributed. 1
WHAT YOU NEED
 Worsted weight yarn in 6 colors (I used 100% 4-ply acrylic yarn)

 Skin parts (Skin):
Crafter’s Secret Magnolia Way 7oz/199g = 355yd/325m 18sts = 4in/10cm
 Hair, Bolero & Leg warmers (Purple):
I Love This Yarn Grape 7oz/199g = 355yd/325m 18sts = 4in/10cm
Note: I split the 4-ply yarn in 1-ply strands for the hair. Please test your yarn carefully before starting.
Consider another yarn if your yarn is not suitable for splitting.
 Dress and Shoes (Rose):
I Love This Yarn Hot Rose 7oz/199g = 355yd/325m 18sts = 4in/10cm
 Dress (Light Blue):
I Love This Yarn Soft Blue 7oz/199g = 355yd/325m 18sts = 4in/10cm
 Legs (Light Green and Green):
I Love This Yarn Pistache 7oz/199g = 355yd/325m 18sts = 4in/10cm
I Love This Yarn Jelly Bean 7oz/199g = 355yd/325m 18sts = 4in/10cm
Note: You only need a very small amount of the Light Green yarn. If you do not want to make this
extra purchase, you can substitute this yarn with any of the other yarn colors or White.
One skein of each color is more than you will need.
 Sport weight yarn leftovers for the embroidery of the eyes or 2 safety eyes Ø 8mm
 Eyes: Black, Violet, White
I used Baby Bee Sweet Delight ‘Berry Jam’ and ‘Angel White’ and a black yarn of the same yardage
4oz/115g = 340yd/311m 23sts = 4in/10cm
 Mouth: (Pink)
I used Baby Bee Sweet Delight ‘Baby Red’ 4oz/115g = 340yd/311m 23sts = 4in/10cm
 Crochet hooks E/3.5 mm (or in accordance with the yarn you use) and G/4.25mm,
and a small steel hook (2.0 mm)
 Polyfill or other stuffing and a stuffing tool (a pencil will do)
 Stitch marker or a small piece of yarn
 A blunt & a sharp needle with large needle eyes, pins, scissors
 3 pipe cleaners (12”/30cm length) or wire to stabilize the body
FINISHED SIZE
Your Plum Pudding doll is about 11“(27cm tall) (if using similar yarn).

USEFUL HINTS
 Crochet pretty tight all the way. If you crochet very loose, try to use a smaller hook size.
 After each complete step, weave in all remaining yarn tails or hide them inside the doll.
 You can choose different kinds of yarn. The doll’s measurements will change. Adjust your hook sizes
accordingly.
 Fill the doll with soft stuffing firmly as you go. The firmer you stuff, the better shaped your doll will turn
out.
ABBREVIATIONS
This pattern is written in US crochet terminology for right-handed crocheting.
ch(s) = chain(s) sc = single crochet inc = increase (2 sc in the next st)

st(s) = stitch(es) sl st = slip stitch dec = decrease (2 sc together or invisible decrease)
FLO = front loops only BLO = back loops only
dc = double crochet hdc = half double crochet F/O = finish off
ABOUT THE PATTERN
This pattern is made in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless otherwise instructed. The green
number is the total of stitches at the end of each round. Continue with the yarn color that you finished off
at the end of each round unless a color switch is given. Place a marker (a short piece of yarn) through the
last stitch of every finished round to keep track with your pattern.

PATTERN
HEAD - from top to bottom
Purple:
1: magic circle with 6 sc 6
2: inc in each st around 12
4: [inc, sc in next 3 sts] 6 times 30
5: [inc, sc in next 4 sts] 6 times, switch to skin color on last st 36
Skin:
7-9: sc in each st around (3 rounds)
Shape the cheeks
14: sc in next 12 sts, [inc, sc] 3 times, sc in next 4 sts, place a marker for the nose at the last stitch you have
just made, sc in next 3 sts, [inc, sc] 3 times, sc in next 11 sts 48
If you want to use safety eyes, fasten them now. Adjust them between round 12 and 13, 8 stiches apart
from each other (7 holes space). Center them to the nose marker.
If you want to embroider the eyes like I did, just move on.
19: sc in next 15 sts, [dec, sc in next 5 sts] 2 times, dec, sc in next 9 sts 42
20: [dec, sc in next 5 sts] 6 times 36
Start filling the head with fiberfill.
nose marker
23: [dec] 12 times 12
Fill the head firmly with more stuffing and shape while you stuff.

24: [dec, dec, sc] 2 times, dec 7
Neck (add extra stuffing but keep flat) Top Side
25-26: sc in each st around (2 rounds) 7
NOSE
Skin and a small hook (2.0mm):
1: Cut a yarn piece of about 12”/30cm.

2: Begin with a starting tail of ~4”/10 cm: slip knot, ch 2, F/O.
2: Use your sharp sewing needle and go with one tail end into the stitch slightly above your nose marker.
Go directly through the stitch and not into a hole between 2 stitches. Come out at any point of the
head.
3: Bring the other tail in slightly below the same stitch and come out at the same point where your starting
tail is hanging. Knot the yarn tails and hide them inside the head.
red arrow: bring in your needle here

green circle: come out here
SHAPE THE FACE
If you have put in safety eyes or do not want to shape the face, you can omit the following steps and
continue with the eyes.
1: Cut a piece of skin yarn long enough to go around the entire head (~20”/50cm). Bring it in with your
sewing needle at any point at the back of the head. Work your way through the head and come out at
the front side between rounds 14 and 15, 5 holes to the right of the nose.
Back: bring your yarn in
2: Follow the pattern in the pictures below to make 2 stiches for shaping the face. After coming out with
your needle (step 1), count 2 holes to the left and bring your needle in. Come out at the left side of the
nose and make another stitch symmetrical to the first one.
5 stitches space and

OUT centered to the nose
IN
5: Bring the yarn to the back side of the head and come out at exactly the stitch where you started. Pull
both yarn tails to shape the face, knot them and hide the yarn inside the head.
Pull on both yarn strands at the same time and knot them.
Use your stuffing tool and shape the head again. Put more stuffing into the head if necessary.

EYES (make 2)
Use thin yarn (sports weight) or split worsted weight yarn (4-ply) into 2 strands. Use a small hook (2.0mm)
and a sharp sewing needle.
Black:
1: magic circle with 6 sc
2: inc in next 2 sts (total of 8 sts in black, incomplete round)
Violet:
3: switch to violet on next st, sc in same st, inc in next 7 sts (= one complete round, 16 sts)
White:
4: switch to white on next st, sc in next st, inc, sc in next 2 sts, inc, sc in next 2 sts, sl st (total of 10 sts
appearing in white, incomplete round), F/O leaving a tail for the eye highlights
5: Embroider the eye highlights with 2 stitches using the tail of white yarn from round 4.
Sew the circles to the head. The eyes cover rounds 11 to 14 and are 5 stitches apart (at round 12). Cover
the stitches that you have made to shape the face. Keep your thread in the inner of the circle.

5 stiches space
row 11
row 14
Embroider the eye lines
Follow the pictures to make the eye lines and eye lashes.
Start with thin black yarn at the bottom of the eye. Make one stitch at the bottom (1) and another stitch at
the top (2). Stay close to the eye so that the eye lines get naturally curved. Embroider some eye lashes (3).
(1) (2) (3)
Re-shape the head again and put in more stuffing if needed.
MOUTH
Use Pink thin yarn and embroider the mouth 2 rounds below the nose.
1: Use your sewing needle and start at any point of the head. Come out 2 rounds below and 3 stitches left
from the nose.
2: Count 6 holes to the right and make 2 stitches (6 stitches wide and centered to the nose).
3: Come out with your needle at the center of the mouth, half a row below the 2 strands. Do not come out
in the gap between two stiches but directly in the center stitch.

Nose
Come out at the center
4: Wrap the yarn around the two strands. Go with your sewing needle back in the center stitch of the
mouth and bring it out where the first yarn tail is hanging. Knot the yarn tails and hide them inside the
head.
BODY - continue from the head
27: [inc, sc] 3 times, inc 11
Check the position of your last stitch from row 27. It should be at the front center point. Crochet more sc
or unravel some stitches until the last stitch is correct but keep the total number of stitches for this row
(11). I had to crochet 1 more sc to come to the center point.
center stitch at the front side
28: [inc] 3 times, sc in next 3sts, [inc] 3 times, sc in next 2sts 17
The increase stiches form the shoulders and should be at both sides.

37: [inc, sc in next 5 sts] 2 times, inc, sc in next 4 sts 20
Stabilize the neck and body
Take 3 pipe cleaners 12” (30cm) length each. Fold them in half and twist them around each other.
Use your stuffing tool to make a hole in the stuffing of the head. Push the pipe cleaners into the head (at
least half the length of the head). Trim the length of the pipe cleaners if they are coming out of the body.
Stuff the body carefully around the pipe cleaners.
Optional: If you do not want to use pipe cleaners, stuff the neck VERY firmly. Make sure it has enough
stability to carry the hair.
38: switch color to Green on first st, then sc in each st around, F/O
Lay your doll aside.
LEGS (make 2)
Foot:
Green:
1: ch 9, starting with 2nd ch from hook: sc in next 8 sts, continue working around on the other side of the
chain: sc in next 8 sts 16
*make sure to add a marker in the last sc and move that marker at the end of every row*

Start here
last stitch
End here
Crochet in the outer loops of the chain
2: sc in next 4 sts, inc in next 8 sts, sc in next 4 sts 24

3: BLO: sc in next 23 sts, sc in both loops in last st
4: sc in next 6sts, dec 6 times, sc in next 6sts 18
Leg:
Continue with Green:

7-10: sc in each st around (4 rounds) 10
Fill the foot with stuffing. Keep the sole flat. Add stuffing to the leg as the work progresses.
Continue with Green:

11: sc in next 8 st, dec 9
12-13: sc in each st around (2 rounds), switch color to Light Green on last st
Light Green:
14: sc in each st around
15: sc in next 6 sts, dec, switch color to Green on last st 8
Green:
16-17: sc in each st around (2 rounds), switch color to Light Green on last st
Light Green:
19: sc in next 5 sts, dec, switch color to Green on last st 7
Green:

F/O. Cut the yarn of the first leg. Important! Do not cut the yarn of the second leg. This will be used to
connect the legs. Stuff the legs very firmly.
Connect the legs:
Start with the second leg. Crochet along or unravel some stitches until you are at the outer side of the leg
(the outer point of the hip).
24: leg 2: sc in the next 4 sts, ch 2 (picture 1), connect to leg1 by crocheting a sc in the inner side of this
leg (picture 2), continue leg 1: sc in next 6 sts, chain: sc in the 2 chs, leg 2: sc in next 3 sts (picture 3) 18
Picture 1
Start at the outside

Inner center of leg 2: ch 2
Picture 2
connect to leg 1

Picture 3
25: leg 2: inc, sc in next 3 sts, chain: sc in next 2 chs, leg 1: sc in next 3 sts. inc, sc in next 3 sts, chain: sc in
next 2 sts over the chain, leg 2: sc in next 3 sts 20
26-27: sc in each st around (2 rounds), F/O leaving a long tail for connecting the legs to the body.
Sew the legs to the body.
ARMS (make 2) – from top to bottom
Start with a tail of ~12” (30cm). This tail will be used for sewing the arm to the body.
Skin:
1: magic circle with 4 sc 4
2: [sc, inc] 2 times 6
Bring the starting tail to the outside. It will later be used for sewing.

13: dec, sc in next 4 sts 5
14: sc in next 4 sts, inc 6
Stuff the arm very lightly.
Hand

16: [sc, dec] 4 times 8
Stuff lightly.

17: dec 4 times 4
F/O leaving a yarn tail for closing the hand.
Weave in and out through the remaining sts, pull tight to

close the gap, F/O and hide the yarn tail inside the arm.
Sew the arms to the body.
DRESS
Rose:
1: ch 18, sl st in first ch to close to a ring 18
10: [inc, sc in next 5sts] 3 times 21
Change to hook G/4.25mm:
11: [sc FLO, 5 dc in next st, sc FLO] 7 times 49
Dress after row 11
12: BLO in entire row: [sc, dc, (2 dc in each of next 3 sts, dc, sc] 7 times 70
13: BLO in entire row: [sl st, sc in next 3 sts, inc 2 times, sc in next 3 sts, sl st] 7 times 84
14: FLO in entire row: [sl st, sc in next 3 sts, inc, sc in next 2 sts, inc, sc in next 3 sts, sl st] 7 times 98
F/O

Light Blue:
By crocheting in FLO in round 14 you created 84 loops at the back side of the skirt (the increase stiches in
row 14 only produced one loop each at the back side). Crochet row 15 using these loops.
15: Pull the yarn through the first back side loop (this is the first sl st from row 14) and make a sc, ch1, dc
in next 3 sts, skip next st, 3 dc in each of next 2 sts, skip next st, dc in next 3 sts, hdc, [hdc, dc in next 3
sts, skip next st, 3 dc in each of next 2 sts, skip next st, dc in next 3 sts, hdc] 6 times, close the round
with a sl st in the first ch 98
Make a loop at the back side Continue in working direction The increase stitches are always
at the center of a ‘petal’.
16: BLO in entire row: sc in each st around, sl st in last st, F/O
Push the feet through the opening of the dress and dress your doll.
Belt: (hook E/3.5mm)
ch 21, F/O leaving a long tail for sewing- Chain less if the beginning and the end of the chain overlap
when placed around the dress.
Sew the belt in place.

LEG WARMERS (make 2) – from bottom to top
1: ch 22
2: Start with 2nd ch from hook: sc in each ch 21
From her on, work each row in BLO only:
3: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across
Check the width of the leg warmer. It should loosely fit around the ankle.
4: ch 1, turn, start with 2nd ch from hook: sc, dec, sc in next 18 sts 20
6: ch1, turn, start with 2nd ch from hook: sc in each st across
9: ch1, turn, start with 2nd ch from hook: sc in each st across
F/O leaving a long tail for sewing.
Sew both edges together. Put the leg warmer on. The wider part is at the bottom.
Move the seam to the inner side of the leg. Push the upper edge down to row 12 of the leg (2 rows below
the lower stripe in Light Green) and secure with a few stitches.

SHOES (make 2)
Rose:
1: ch 10, starting with 2nd ch from hook: sc in next 9 sts, continue working around on the other side of the
chain: sc in next 9 sts (see pictures for foot) 18
2: sc in next 5 sts, inc in next 8 sts, sc in next 5 sts 26
3: BLO: sc in next 25 sts, sc in both loops in last st
4: sc in next 7 sts, dec 6 times, sc in next 7 sts 20
5: sc in next 6 sts, dec 4 times, sc in next 6 sts, F/O. 16
Light Blue:
magic ring with 4 sts, F/O leaving a long tail for sewing
Sew the ring to the shoe.
BOLERO JACKET – from bottom to top
Grape:
Sleeve (make 2)
1: ch 10, sl st in first ch to close to a ring 10

3: sc in next 8sts, dec 9
4-7: sc in each st around (4 rounds), F/O
Jacket
1: ch 21, starting with 2nd ch from hook: sc in each st across 20

Check the width of the jacket.
2: ch 1, turn, start with 2nd ch from hook: sc in each st across

3: ch 1, turn, start with 2nd ch from hook: sc in next 19 sts, sl st
Attach the sleeves to the jacket
4: ch1, turn, start with 2nd ch from hook: sc, dec, sc, sc together the next st and a st from the first sleeve, sc
together the next st and the following st from the first sleeve, sc in next 8 sts, sc together the next st
and a st from the second sleeve, sc together the next st and the following st from the second sleeve, sc,
dec, sl st 18
5: ch1, turn, start with 2nd ch from hook: sc in next 3 sts, sc around the second sleeve in next 7 sts, sc in
next 8 sts, sc around the first sleeve in next 7 sts, sc in next 2 sts, sl st 28
6: ch1, turn, start with 2nd ch from hook: sc, dec, sc in next 3 sts, dec, sc in next 12 sts, dec, sc in next 3 sts,
dec, sl st 24
7: ch1, turn, start with 2nd ch from hook: sc in next 5 sts, dec, sc in next 10 sts, dec, sc in next 4 sts, sl st,
F/O 20
8: sc around the edge
Put the jacket on. You may need to squeeze the hands to push them through the sleeves.

Sew the lower opening of the jacket together (rows 1-3).
Ribbon & Button
Rose:
magic ring with 4 sts, F/O leaving a long tail for sewing
Light Blue: (hook 2.0 mm)

ch 15, F/O
Sew the ribbon and the ring to the dress.
EARS (make 2)
Skin:
1: magic circle with 4 sc (do not pull too tightly to close the circle but leave a small hole)
2: ch1, turn, start with 2nd ch from hook: sc in each of the next 4 sts
3: sl st in the hole of the magic circle, F/O leaving a tail for sewing
Close the magic circle tightly. Flip the inside of the ear out.

Insert your hook into the hole
of the magic circle to finish
the ear with a sl st
Pin the ears in place with the top of the ears at row 12 of the head. Align with the arms. Sew to the head.
HAIR
Important! Please test your yarn carefully whether it is suitable for splitting. Use another yarn if the split
yarn strand does not have enough stability anymore.
Prepare the hair
Note: I always make longer strands so that I can later decide about the final hair length. If you want to give
your doll short hair, you can make the strands shorter.
Use a book or a chopping board of about 10.5”/26 cm in length and wrap the purple yarn around it. Start
with 50 loops. Cut through the loops so that you have strands of yarn. Split each strand into 2 separate
strands, then split each strand again. You have now 200 1-ply strands. Make more strands later if needed.
Root in the hair (Part 1)

1: Root the strands into the purple part of the head (rows 1-5). Insert your hook horizontally to make a
beautiful hairline. Pull a strand through a stitch on top of the head and then pull the yarn tails through
the loop and pull tight. Go around until the entire purple part of the head is covered. You can use
shorter strands (half the length of the other strands) for the front hair line (bangs).
Root in shorter hair for the front bangs

Mark the hairline at the back side of the head
2: Use a pin to mark the center point at the back side of the head at row 18 (counted from the top of the
head). Use some more pins for the side hair lines and make sure they go close to the ears.
row 18
Root in the hair (Part 2)

3: Continue with rooting in the hair at the back side of the head. Go only into every other stitch and
fill the area inside the marked hair line. Weave in some extra strands at the outer hair line to give it
a full look. You can also use your sewing needle to fill the gaps.
At this stage, the hair is much longer than needed. This lets you decide whether you want
long or short hair for your doll.
Make a dense hairline at the back of the head.
Give your doll a cute hair cut in the desired length. Cut little and then cut again until you are satisfied with
the length.

Flower
Rose:
1: magic ring with 10 sc, attach the Light Green yarn and close the ring with a sl st (see picture 1)
Light Green:
2: [ch 1, hdc and dc in current st, dc and hdc in next st, sl st in next st] 4 times,
ch 1, hdc and dc in current st, dc and hdc in next st, F/O leaving a yarn tail for sewing
Use your sewing needle and pull the yarn through the first st of the row (see picture 2).
(1) (2)
Hair band
Rose (hook 2.0mm):
Start with a longer tail for sewing: ch 20, F/O, leave a longer tail for sewing
Attach the chain and the flower to the hair.

Enjoy your cute Plum Pudding doll!
If you have any questions, please contact me at amigurumi4ever@gmail.com.
Please visit my Etsy shop: https://amigurumi4ever.etsy.com


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Plum Pudding A Strawberry Shortcake Doll

Crochet pattern by Carola Kaiser – amigurumi4ever –

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

 Worsted weight yarn in 6 colors (I used 100% 4-ply acrylic yarn)

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

This pattern is written in US crochet terminology for right-handed crocheting.

ch(s) = chain(s) sc = single crochet inc = increase (2 sc in the next st)

ABOUT THE PATTERN

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

Shape the cheeks

Start filling the head with fiberfill.

23: [dec] 12 times 12

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

Neck (add extra stuffing but keep flat) Top Side

25-26: sc in each st around (2 rounds) 7

Skin and a small hook (2.0mm):

1: Cut a yarn piece of about 12”/30cm.

red arrow: bring in your needle here

Back: bring your yarn in

5 stitches space and

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

Embroider the eye lines

(1) (2) (3)

Re-shape the head again and put in more stuffing if needed.

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

Come out at the center

BODY - continue from the head

27: [inc, sc] 3 times, inc 11

center stitch at the front side

28: [inc] 3 times, sc in next 3sts, [inc] 3 times, sc in next 2sts 17

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

Stabilize the neck and body

Lay your doll aside.

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

2: sc in next 4 sts, inc in next 8 sts, sc in next 4 sts 24

Continue with Green:

Continue with Green:

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

Connect the legs:

Start at the outside

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

Sew the legs to the body.

ARMS (make 2) – from top to bottom

3-12: sc in each st around (10 rounds)

Stuff the arm very lightly.

15: inc in each st around 12

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

Weave in and out through the remaining sts, pull tight to

Sew the arms to the body.

Dress after row 11

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

Belt: (hook E/3.5mm)

Sew the belt in place.

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

------ © 2015 / amigurumi4ever / Carola Kaiser. All rights reserved. ------

Sew the ring to the shoe.

BOLERO JACKET – from bottom to top

1: ch 10, sl st in first ch to close to a ring 10