Weebee Doll

©2020 Text and images by Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. Finished products created with this free pattern may be used
for commercial sale. Design credit should be given to Laura Tegg when finished products are listed for sale.
I, Laura Tegg have made every effort to ensure that the instructions in this free pattern are accurate and safe, and therefore cannot accept
liability for any resulting injury, damage or loss to persons or property, however it may arise. Names of manufacturers and product ranges
are provided for the information of readers, with no intention to infringe copyright or trademarks.
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The outfit in this pattern has been designed to fit my standard size Weebee doll. You can find the
doll pattern here for free.
Weebee is named after my youngest niece Phoebe - when she was first born my daughter and
Phoebe’s older sister couldn’t say her name properly yet and she has been nicknamed ‘Weebee’
ever since.
You can find all of my doll patterns plus lots of hair and clothing/outfit patterns here.
Important Information Regarding Yarn & Hook Choice
I have tried very hard to make my clothing patterns as versatile as possible. In theory as long as
you use the same type of yarn e.g. acrylic, cotton etc., the same brand of yarn, the same weight of
yarn and the same hook size, the clothing should fit your dolls.
However, some people have commented that they have a tendency to stuff their dolls very, very
firmly (one person said ‘like a brick’) and a lot of people use cotton yarn too which doesn’t have
much give. If this is you, you may not be able to manipulate your dolls into the clothing as easily
as I can, as although I stuff my dolls firmly I don’t stuff them so firmly that I cannot pull and/or push
them into the clothing with ease. I also use acrylic yarn for my dolls and their clothing which has a
lot of stretch to it.
Therefore If you tend to stuff your dolls very firmly, so that that the dolls body has very little give or
use cotton yarn, it is highly recommended that you go up at least a hook size when making the
clothing within this pattern.
I have noted in the individual patterns when there is a good point at which to try the pieces on
before you work any further, so that you can rework what you have done so far with a different
sized hook if you need to.
Useful info for those who crochet left handed
Please take a look at this site for hints and tips about following crochet patterns if you are left
handed.
Which yarns did I use for my doll and clothing?
Not a recommendation as such, it’s just because I get asked this a lot. We don’t have much
choice here in the UK yarn wise, Stylecraft Special and Paintbox acrylic yarn are my absolute
favourite brands though, lovely to work with and reasonably priced ☺
Terminology: US Abbreviations Abbreviations Cont/d…
Chain (ch) Single Crochet (sc)
Other items needed:
Double Crochet (dc) Space (sp)
Stitch marker
Half Double Crochet (hdc) Skip (skp)
Tapestry needle
Loop (lp) Stitch (st)
Magic ring (MR) Slip Stitch (sl st)
Next (nxt) Yarn Over (yo)
Round (rnd)
Working into the Lower Back Loop

This YouTube video explains the

technique (also referred to as the
third loop in some instances)

Yoke worked first, in rows to begin with and then in rounds.

Row 1: Ch25, sc into 2nd ch from hook and into each ch across,
turn (24sts)
Row 2: Ch1 (not a st from now on), sc in first 4sts, 3sc in next st,
sc in each of the next 2sts, 3sc in next st, sc in each of the next
8sts, 3sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2sts, 3sc in next st, sc
in each of the remaining 4sts, turn (32sts)
Row 3: Ch1, hdc in first 5sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 4sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in
each of the next 10sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 4sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of
the remaining 5sts, turn (40sts)
Row 4: Ch1, hdc in next 6sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 6sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in
each of the next 12sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of the next 6sts, 3hdc in next st, hdc in each of
the remaining 6sts, turn (48sts)
Rnd 5: Ch1, sc in next 8sts, ch5, skip 8sts, sc in each of the next 16sts, ch5, skip 8sts, sc in each
of the remaining 8sts, join last st to first with a sl st (32sts & two ch5 spaces)
Rnd 6: Ch1, hdc in next 8sts, work 6hdc into the ch5 space, hdc in each of the next 16sts, 6hdc in
ch5 space, hdc in each of the remaining 8 sts, join as before (44sts)
Fasten off and check the fit on your doll – if it is too small, try reworking the above in a
larger hook and if it is too large, try a smaller hook as appropriate. Hide any loose ends.
Reattach yarn to the back of the top (the opposite side to where you fastened off) this will avoid
having your join in the following rounds at the front of the top.
Rnds 7 – 9: Ch1, hdc in each st around, join as before (44sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.

Rnd 1: Attach yarn under the arm in centre of the 6hdc’s, work 16 hdc evenly around the arm, join
last st to first with a sl st (16sts)
Round 2: Ch1, hdc into each st around, join as before (16sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.

Worked from the waist down in joined rounds.

Ch36, join last ch to first with a sl st being careful not to twist the chain.
Rnd 1: Ch1 (not a st from now on), sc into each ch around, join the last st to
the first with a sl st (36sts)
Rnds 2 – 4: Ch1, hdc in each st around, join as before (36sts)
First Leg
Rnd 5: Ch1, hdc in each of the first 18sts, join as before, leaving the last 18sts unworked for the
second leg (18sts)
Rnds 6 & 7 (feel free to add more or less rounds to each leg as necessary): Ch1, hdc in each
st around, join (18sts)
Fasten off.
Second Leg
Reattach yarn to last unworked st at the back of the trousers as
pictured.
Rnd 1: Ch1, hdc in first st, hdc in the next unworked st at the front
of the trousers, hdc in each remaining st around, join (18sts)
Rnds 2 & 3: Ch1, hdc in each st around, join (18sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends – there will be hole in the groin area of the trousers, simply sew
this closed with yarn and a darning needle.

Worked in joined rounds from the top down.

Rnd 1: MR, ch2 (not a st from now on), work 12dc, join (12sts)
Rnd 2: Ch2, work 2dc into each st around, join (24sts)
Rnd 3: Ch2, work 2dc into each st around, join (48sts)
Rnd 4: Ch2, dc into each of the first 3sts, work 2dc into the next
st, *dc into each of the next 3sts, work 2dc into the next st, repeat
from * around, join (60sts)
Rnds 5 – 8: Ch2, dc in each st around, join (60sts)
Row 9: Ch2, dc in each of the next 54sts, leaving the last 6sts
unworked, turn (54sts)
Rows 10 & 11: Ch2, dc in each st across, now to make the first
tie, ch26, sl st in the second ch from the hook and in each of the
remaining chs back towards the cap, sc in each st across to the
opposite side, now for the second side, ch26, sl st in the second
ch from the hook and in each remaining ch back to the cap, then
fasten off and hide loose ends.
 Worked from the bottom up in joined rounds.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a stitch from now on), work
6hdc, joining first st to last with a sl st (6sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, 2hdc in each st around, joining first st
to last with a sl st (12sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, 2hdc in each st around, joining first st to last with a sl st (24sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, hdc into each of the first 3sts, work 2hdc in the next st, *hdc into each of the next
3sts, work 2hdc into the next st, repeat from * around, join (30sts)
Rnd 5: Ch1, hdc lower blo around, joining first st to last with a sl st (30sts)
Rnd 6: Ch1, hdc around, joining first st to last with a sl st (30sts)
Rnd 7: Ch1, hdc in each of the first 9sts, hdc2tog x 6, hdc in each of the remaining 9sts, joining
first st to last with a sl st (24sts)
Rnd 8: Ch1 (not a st from now on) sc in each of the next 9sts, sl st in each of the next 6sts, sc in
each of the remaining 9sts, joining first st to last with a sl st (18sts and 6 sl sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.

Worked from the top down, bottom ties are worked as part of the
main mask, then the top ones are added afterwards.
Row 1: Ch30, dc in 3rd ch from hook (starting ch2 does not count
as a st), dc in each remaining ch across, turn (28sts)
Row 2: Ch2 (not a st from now on), dc2tog, dc in each of the next
24sts, dc2tog, turn (26sts)
Row 3: Ch2, dc2tog, dc in each of the next 22sts, dc2tog, turn (24sts)
Row 4: Ch31, sl st LOOSELY in the second ch from the hook, sl st
LOOSELY in each remaining ch back to the mask, sl st LOOSELY in
each st along the bottom of the mask, ch31, sl st LOOSELY into the
second ch from the hook and then sl st LOOSELY in each remaining ch
back to the mask, fasten off and hide loose ends (2 x straps with 30 sl sts
in each & 24sl sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
Top straps
Ch37, sl st LOOSELY into the second
ch from the hook and into each
remaining ch, then attach with a sl st
to the top right hand side of the mask,
sl st LOOSELY in each st across the
top of the mask, ch37, sl st LOOSELY
into the second ch from the hook and
in each remaining ch back towards the
mask, fasten off and hide loose ends.
 I really hope you have enjoyed making your Weebee Scrubs!
Please share your projects with us on the Weebee Appreciation Society
Facebook Page (link on first page), don’t forget to add your project to Ravelry and
share photo’s on Instagram using the tags on the first page!