reddit.

com/r/curlyhair

r/curlyhair’s Ultimate Guide to the

Curly Girl/Guy Method

Introduction
We created this document as a more flexible, beautiful, and usable alternative to Reddit’s
wiki system. It works better on mobile, we can actually embed images, and we can link
directly to different sections! We hope you enjoy it as much as we’ve enjoyed making it.

Please don’t be intimidated by the length! If you’re just getting started, all you need is on a
couple pages here. All this information was collected over several years of moderating the
active and helpful /r/curlyhair community. Some of the info here has citations (as much as
possible) but a lot of it is crowd-sourced information from the community members!

This guidebook is meant to be a reference, something you sit down to answer a specific
question (“if I want to go swimming, do I need to do anything special to protect my hair?”)
not something you sit down and read through all in one sitting.

1
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

It is also a work in progress, so if you see something you’d like to contribute please feel free
to message the moderators!

Introduction 1

Getting Started 7
What is the CG method? 7
Overview of the basics 7
Before starting CG: Reset Wash 8
Beginner Routine 8
Why try the beginner routine? 8
Steps 9
Infographic 9
Text version 9
Products 12
Alternate product suggestions for the beginner routine 13
Reset shampoo 14
Co-wash 14
Low poo 15
“Normal”/Leave-in conditioner 15
Styling products 15
Beginner routine FAQ 16
How frequently should I wash now? 16
I've always been really careful to avoid conditioner on my roots, this seems
insane! 16
My hair is very greasy! I'm worried about not using shampoo. 16
None of these products are available in my area, what do I do? 17
Ok, I've been doing the Quickstart Routine for 2 weeks...now what? 17
Troubleshooting 17
Problem: I don’t know if I need a haircut 18
Problem: Too much grease/oil 18
Problem: Hair seems to be falling out 18
Problem: Limp curls by the end of the day (or by day 2) 19
Problem: Frizz 19
Problem: Some parts are curlier than others 19
Top 10 FAQ (Most Frequently Asked Questions) 20

2
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

1. What is my curl type? 20

2. How do I protect my hair overnight? 21
3. How do I revive my curls in the morning? 21
4. How often should I wash my hair? 21
5. How do I style my curly hair, or how do I use gel? 21
6. What if I have dandruff/psoriasis/seborrheic dermatitis/need to use a medicated
shampoo? 21
7. What if I want to wear my hair straight sometimes? 21
8. What do I do if I have short hair? 22
9. What is the transition period like? 22
10. Where can I find cruelty-free/fragrance-free/protein-free products? 23
Additional FAQ 23
How do I apply products? 23
How do I dry my hair? 23
How do I get multi-day curls? 23
Do I need to do CGM to get good curly results? 23
Can I do parts of the CGM? 23
My favorite product has silicones! What do I do? 24
How do I find a curly salon? 24
What hairstyle would look best on me? 24
How do I revive my curls in the morning? 24
But my hair isn't super dry, should I still do CG? 24
How do I tell if my hair is dry? 24
My hair isn't curly, it's frizzy and poofy. How do I deal with it? 24
ELI5: How do I apply gel? How much do I use? When do I put it in? 24
Is the CG method safe for colored/dyed hair? 25
What if I have dandruff? Will CG help me? 25

General Info and Techniques 26

Cleansing 26
How often should I wash my hair? 26
Types of cleansers 26
Creamy cleansers 26
Low Sudsing cleansers 26
Clarifying sulfate cleansers 27
No cleanser 27

3
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

The science behind avoiding sulfates 27

Co-washing 28
Technique 29
Conditioning 29
Detangling using conditioner 30
Squish to Condish (S2C) 30
Styling 31
Types of styling products 31
Gel 31
Mousse 32
Cream 32
Techniques 32
Super Soaker 32
Finger coiling 32
Leave-in, Oil, Cream (LOC) 32
Rake & Shake 33
Scrunch Out the Crunch (SOTC) 33
How to use gel and SOTC 33
Shingling 35
Common modifications to CG 35
Curl type (and why it doesn’t matter) 36
What’s MY curl type? 36
Coloring/dyeing 37
Drying 37
Plopping 38
To plop or not to plop? 38
How to plop 38
Plopping instructions 38
Reverse Plopping 39
Air drying 40
How to air dry 40
Diffusing 41
How to diffuse your curls 41
Extra tips: 41
How do I find a good diffuser and/or blow-dryer? 41
Tips for Volume 42

4
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Haircuts 43
How do I find a curly salon? 43
What hairstyle would look best on me? 43
Is it possible to achieve <insert style here> style naturally for my hair? 43
Multi-day curls 43
What is second day hair? (or third, or fourth...) 43
Sleeping with curls 44
Morning tips for multi-day curls 44
Option 1: Re-do 44
Option 2: Spray bottle 45
Option 3: Wet hands 45
Option 4: Scrunch with water 45
Option 5: Curl-by-curl 45
Option 6: Embrace the frizz 46
Porosity 46
What is porosity? 46
Why should I care about porosity? 46
Levels of porosity 46
Identifying porosity 47
Characteristics 47
Low Porosity 47
High Porosity 47
Porosity-specific recommendations 47
Low porosity recommendations 48
High porosity recommendations 48
Low-porosity shopping guide 48
YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary) 50

Products & Ingredients 51

Product recommendations 51
USA 51
International (non-USA) 51
Product/ingredient checker apps 51
Is It CG? 51
Curlsbot 51
Ingredient spotlight 51

5
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Baking soda (avoid) 51

Oils 52
Oils and porosity 52
Oil and texture 53
How to apply oil 53
List of oils 54
Caveat with coconut oil 54
Protein 55
What's the deal with protein? 55
Hair that needs protein 55
Hair that has too much protein 56
Product recs 57
How about keratin? 57

Common Concerns 59
Hard water 59
Kids’ curls 59
Detangling kids’ hair 60
Example kids’ routine 60
Scalp conditions (dandruff, dermatitis, etc.) 60
Swimming 61
Transitioning from damaged hair 62
Quit the chemicals & heat 62
Quick tips 63
The big chop 63
Coping with the transition 64
Time is your best friend 64
Wearing hair up for work 64
Working out 64

6
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Getting Started

What is the CG method?

The Curly Girl/Guy Method (aka CG or CGM) is a gentle, moisturizing hair care method to
bring out the best in your curls or waves.

This is a detailed overview of each step of the CG method. Read through it to learn more
about how to take care of curly or wavy hair.

If you just want a straightforward, quick, & cheap starter routine, check out the
Beginner Routine!

Overview of the basics

Curly hair is almost always super dry by default, thanks to sulfates, the harsh detergents in
shampoo. So we remove sulfates from the routine. The problem is that sulfates are used to
wash away certain ingredients like silicones, so we remove those too. This leaves only
ingredients that can be washed away with JUST water.

The CG method mostly focuses around removing both sulfates and silicones in an attempt
to be gentler on already unruly hair!

We’ll go through this in more detail below, but here’s the gist:

1. Wash (conditioner-only wash (cowash) or low poo (low lather shampoo), detangle with
lots of conditioner, no brush)

2. Condition (use lots of conditioner)

3. Apply products (scrunch in a palm full of gel, mousse, or cream)

4. Dry (plop, then air dry or diffuse)

Make sure your products are CG-safe if you co-wash or use low poo! The fastest way to
check ingredients is to google them, then paste them into one of these helpful apps:
Curlsbot, IsItCG.

7
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

If you just want a straightforward, quick, & cheap starter routine, check out the
Beginner Routine!

Before starting CG: Reset Wash

Before starting CG, you must wash all the old silicones and product build-up out of
your hair with a shampoo that has sulfates but no silicones.

A great cheap option is V05 Clarifying Shampoo, available from any drugstore,
Target, etc. (CVS, Walmart). This product works because it has sulfates and no
silicones. (It is not CG approved, but that's what we want for this first wash).
Shampoo one time with this reset wash shampoo, and then set it aside for now.
(See this short list of suggested products for what to look for if you can't find V05).

Yes: you will stop regularly using sulfate shampoo after this.

Just to be absolutely clear: You will use the reset wash shampoo very infrequently (once
when starting CG, and again every few weeks or months if needed). Then you will use a
different, gentler product to wash your hair. This reset wash shampoo is only used to strip
the water-insoluble ingredients out of your hair and will leave it dry if used continually
because it contains sulfates. Using it once every couple of weeks is ok to help with buildup,
but do not use it as a regular shampoo.

• Do not skip this step! This is the most common mistake we see starting out!

• It might take more than one CG-approved wash and some trial & error to see a
difference! Give it at least two weeks before posting a follow-up, unless you are
desperate.

• After the reset wash, you have now officially started CG!

Beginner Routine
Be prepared to throw everything you know about haircare out the window! The CG method
really shakes things up. Even if it sounds crazy, give it a try!

Why try the beginner routine?

It’s a quick, ultra minimal, and super cheap way to get started with the CG method! (Total
cost: $11.79, as of June 2018.)

8
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

This tried-and-true set of products and steps will help you build a foundation that you can
modify as you get to know your hair. It will not work for everyone, but it is a great way to
get started.

Try it for a month and then come back with more specific questions.

Steps

Infographic

(Click here for a larger, clearer version)

Text version
RESET WASH
This is the most important step! Do not skip this!

9
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Shampoo your hair with the reset wash shampoo. This will remove all of your old products
(and any silicones, wax, etc. that they contain).

Do not use this product every time you wash your hair (once every few weeks to months is
okay). Your hair could be very dry and frizzy if you use it too much.

The first time you do this routine, skip step 1 (Co-wash), since you just washed your hair
with shampoo. Every other time, start with co-washing.

1. CO-WASH
CO-wash stands for “Conditioner-Only washing.” Yes, that means you will only use
conditioner to wash your hair!

Vigorously massage the conditioner into your scalp and hair. While you rinse, keep rubbing
to remove oils and dirt. Be sure to rinse thoroughly.

Not everyone can co-wash, particularly wavies. If this doesn’t work for you, try a low-poo (see the
alternative product suggestions below).

A Note about Cowashing: Lots of people get nervous about putting conditioner on their
roots.

a) Don't be! Most people adjust within a few weeks. Your scalp will stop overproducing
oils if you stop stripping all the oils off with sulfates.
b) You can always do a wash with the clarifying shampoo once every week if need be,
especially during the transition period.
c) You can also try a low-poo or a no-poo instead if you're very concerned. Check out
the very very short go-to list of products for no-poo or low-poo options.

2. CONDITION AND DETANGLE

Use a ton of conditioner! You’ll want at least a handful for shoulder-length hair, more if it's
long or thick. (This is why we recommend inexpensive conditioners.)

Wait-- I put in MORE conditioner? Didn’t I just co-wash, and isn’t that the same thing?
Not quite! The main focus of co-washing is to get dirt and oils out of your hair, not to make
it look nice. Rinsing thoroughly, then adding fresh conditioner gives you the chance to help
your curls clump together nicely! Also, if you want to leave any conditioner in (lots of curlies

10
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

do!), you can't do that if you only co-wash, since it's critical to completely wash out the co-
wash.

Detangle gently with fingers or a wide tooth comb. While your hair is slippery with
conditioner in the shower, you can use a wide-toothed comb, a tangle teezer, or a "wet
brush" to help remove tangles. Don't brush or comb your hair out of the shower (it can
cause knots and makes curly hair poofy).

OK to use (only while wet):

(Left to right: wide-toothed comb, “wet brush”, tangle teezer, classic denman brush)

Never OK to use:

(Left to right: boar bristle round brush, boar bristle denman brush)

A popular technique to apply conditioner is squish to condish. It’s a great option for starting
out! But if it’s overwhelming, just put conditioner in your hair and scrunch it.

Rinsing: Rinse out most but not all of the conditioner. If you do squish to condish, there is
no need to put your head under the water and rinse again -- the method handles the
conditioner+water balance for you. But please experiment! This may be an unsatisfying
answer, but we cannot say exactly how much conditioner is right for you to leave in.

3. STYLE
Take a large amount (at least a lemon-sized handful) of gel and scrunch it into your hair
thoroughly. If you have lots of hair, do this in sections.

11
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Gels have changed, and we promise you won't end up looking like your little brother
spiking his hair in the early 2000's. :)

● Take a large amount of gel (a handful, approximately golf ball size) (yes, really)
● Scrunch it into your dripping wet hair.

Note about mousse: Some people want to try mousse instead of gel. We recommend gel! It
works really well for 98% of people. Please give it a try! If you do use mousse, follow the
same techniques as with gel.

DRY
Scrunch your hair with a cotton t-shirt or microfiber towel. Plopping is also a great option to
reduce drying time and help your curls stay together, but it doesn’t work for everyone. Let
your hair air dry or diffuse.

SCRUNCH
Scrunch out the crunch of the gel when your hair is totally dry.

Before and after scrunching out the crunch:

12
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

(Double click to start the video, or view directly on youtube)

Products

● Reset wash This is the most important step! Do not skip this!

○ This shampoo must have sulfates, but NO silicones.

○ Product suggestion: V05 clarifying shampoo, available from drugstores,

Target, etc. (CVS, Walmart)

○ ONLY use this for the reset wash before starting CG, and occasionally (every
few weeks to months) to help remove any buildup.

● Co-wash and conditioner

○ Must not have sulfates, silicones, or drying alcohols.

○ Product suggestion: TRESemme Botanique Conditioner Replenish w/ Coconut

and Aloe Vera, available at Target, Walmart, or Amazon.

● Styling product (no sulfates, silicones, or drying alcohols)

○ Must not have sulfates, silicones, or drying alcohols.

○ LA Looks extreme sport gel, available from Amazon, Walgreens, Walmart,

Bed Bath & Beyond.

Again: You only use the v05 shampoo once in order to get the bad stuff out of your hair.
Once you have done this you can start the CG method. This sulfate-containing clarifying

13
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

shampoo is only used to strip the bad stuff out of your hair and will leave it dry if used
continually. Once every couple of weeks is ok to help with buildup but not as a regular
shampoo. We know this gets repetitive, but it is a very common mistake!

Alternate product suggestions for the beginner routine

Can’t find the products above, or they’re not working for you? Try these other options. This
is not an exhaustive list. There are many, many other products that will work besides what
we have listed here.

These are all curl friendly following the CG method. We tried to span a wide range of price
points, starting from just a few dollars per bottle (specifically marked as ultra cheap) to
higher end brands.

No two curls are alike, so think of this list as a launching pad for your curly journey that will
need to be edited along the way. If these products aren't working for you, we have many
many more options in our Holy Grail product list! The list can be a little overwhelming, so
we recommend starting here.

International curlies, we sadly acknowledge that this list is USA-centric. See here for
international products.

Reset shampoo

This is the shampoo that HAS sulfates but NO silicones you'll use once before you start CG.
Most will never use this again (unless you accidentally use a product that has silicones, or
your hair is extra prone to build-up). Remember: only sulfates will remove silicones, but
sulfates are drying so it's important to minimize how often you use them.

• V05 Clarifying wash ( *ultra cheap @ $2/bottle) ([available from any drugstore, Target,
etc. (CVS, Walmart)).

• Suave Daily Clarifying shampoo ( *ultra cheap @ $2/bottle). (Walgreens, Target).

• Mane and Tail Original shampoo ( $6/bottle, $0.19/oz, but you only need to use this
once so this bottle is way too big. Walmart sells the 3oz travel size which is the perfect
amount!). (Target).

Can't find any of these? Look for a shampoo that HAS sulfates but NO silicones. Google for
the ingredients, and paste them into the ingredient checker. You should see something like
this one, for Mane and Tail. See how it has a red box for sulfates, but nothing for silicones?
That means this shampoo HAS sulfates but NO silicones, and will work great as a final rinse!

14
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Co-wash

You'll notice many of these are the same as the leave-in suggestions. These are products
that work for both scenarios!

Lately, some companies have started making products that are marketed specifically as co-
washes. (Yay, CG has gone mainstream!) These may have gentle cleansing ingredients, or
maybe they are slipperier and easier to work with, or it could be just marketing hype.
“Normal” conditioners will work just fine for co-washing. Cheaper is generally preferred so
you can use a lot, but it highly depends on your budget.

• VO5 conditioners (*ultra cheap @ $1/bottle, $0.09/oz) (website)

• Suave Essentials (*ultra cheap @ $2/bottle, $0.07/oz) (website)

• TRESemme Botanique Nourish & Replenish (website)

• Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Co-Wash (website)

• DevaCurl No Poo (website) Note: See this thread before purchasing DevaCurl. Possible issues
causing hair loss and scalp irritation.

Low poo

• Shea Moisture (all their shampoos are CG)

– SM African Black Soap Dandruff Control Shampoo (website)

– SM Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo (website)

• Trader Joe's Tea Tree Tingle Shampoo (*ultra cheap @ $4/bottle, $0.25/oz)

• DevaCurl Low Poo (website) Note: See this thread before purchasing DevaCurl. Possible issues
causing hair loss and scalp irritation.

“Normal”/Leave-in conditioner

(You'll notice many of these are the same as the co-wash suggestions. These are products
that work for both scenarios!)

• VO5 conditioners (*ultra cheap @ $1/bottle, $0.09/oz) (website)

• Suave Essentials (*ultra cheap @ $2/bottle, $0.07/oz) (website)

• Trader Joe's Tea Tree Tingle Conditioner (*ultra cheap @ $4/bottle, $0.25/oz)

15
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

• Shea Moisture (all their conditioners are CG)

– SM Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner (website)

– SM African Water Mint & Ginger Detox & Refresh Hair & Scalp Conditioner
(website)

• DevaCurl One Condition (website) Note: See this thread before purchasing DevaCurl. Possible
issues causing hair loss and scalp irritation.

Styling products

Most curls will do well with a gel, so if you're an absolute beginner, start there. We also
have a few options for mousses and creams (best for very dry hair or hair that is not
weighed down easily). If you're just starting out, go with gel!

Gel

• LA Looks Sport Gel (*ultra cheap @ $3.50/bottle, $0.17/oz)

• Herbal Essences Totally Twisted Gel (website) Note: this contains a water-soluble
silicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, which is CG-friendly!

• Kinky-Curly Curling Custard

• DevaCurl Light Defining Gel (website) Note: See this thread before purchasing DevaCurl.
Possible issues causing hair loss and scalp irritation.

• DevaCurl Ultra Defining Gel (website) Note: See this thread before purchasing DevaCurl.
Possible issues causing hair loss and scalp irritation.

Mousse

• Herbal Essences Totally Twisted Mousse (website)

• DevaCurl Frizz-Free Volumizing Foam (website) Note: See this thread before purchasing
DevaCurl. Possible issues causing hair loss and scalp irritation.

• Living Proof Curl Enhancing Styling Mousse (website)

Cream

• Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie (website)

16
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

• DevaCurl Supercream (website) Note: See this thread before purchasing DevaCurl. Possible
issues causing hair loss and scalp irritation.

• DevaCurl Wave Maker (website) Note: See this thread before purchasing DevaCurl. Possible
issues causing hair loss and scalp irritation.

Beginner routine FAQ

How frequently should I wash now?

Start with the same schedule you used before, adjusting as needed. So if you used to wash
your hair 2x a week, keep doing that. If you washed every day, keep doing that. It takes
time for your hair to adjust to a new routine. Give it at least two weeks before changing any
products. You'll get to know your hair, and your scalp will adjust to no longer having oils
stripped away by sulfates or other cleansers.

I've always been really careful to avoid conditioner on my roots, this seems
insane!

I know! Trust me: I was the same. I used to carefully apply a dime-size amount to the very
ends of my long hair, and if I got any above that my scalp would instantly look greasy. I
promise: for 99% of people, the problem is silicones, not conditioner! Switching to CG will
likely cause this problem to go away. If you end up getting build-up or feel extra greasy or
just need to reset, you can always do another rinse with the clarifying shampoo from above
(but give it at least a month before you do that - your hair and scalp will need some time to
adjust!).

My hair is very greasy! I'm worried about not using shampoo.

a) Don't be! Most people adjust within a few weeks. Your scalp will stop overproducing
oils if you stop stripping all the oils off with sulfates.
b) You can always do a wash with the clarifying shampoo once a week if need be.
c) You can also try a low-poo or a no-poo instead if you're very concerned. Check out
the very very short go-to list of products for no-poo or low-poo options.

None of these products are available in my area, what do I do?

Check out the very very short list of alternate product suggestions for quick alternatives
before going to our much longer (and sometimes overwhelming) holy grail product list. For
a clarifying shampoo, you're looking for a shampoo that HAS sulfates but DOES NOT have
silicones. To check ingredients, paste them into here: curlsbot.com or isitcg.com. You
should see a warning about harsh sulfates, which is what you want for this first wash!

17
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Ok, I've been doing the Quickstart Routine for 2 weeks...now what?

Common next steps include: identify porosity (this is much more important than curl type
for picking products), find a leave-in, try a few other styling products (gels, oils, creams,
etc.), and find a deep conditioner. The rest of this wiki has tons of info for you!

Troubleshooting
Quick links:
Problem: I don’t know if I need a haircut
Problem: Too much grease/oil
Problem: Hair seems to be falling out
Problem: Limp curls by the end of the day (or by day 2)
Problem: Frizz
Problem: Some parts are curlier than others
Top 10 FAQ (Most Frequently Asked Questions)
1. What is my curl type?
2. How do I protect my hair overnight?
3. How do I revive my curls in the morning?
4. How often should I wash my hair?
5. How do I style my curly hair, or how do I use gel?
6. What if I have dandruff/psoriasis/seborrheic dermatitis/need to use a medicated
shampoo?
7. What if I want to wear my hair straight sometimes?
8. What do I do if I have short hair?
9. What is the transition period like?
10. Where can I find cruelty-free/fragrance-free/protein-free products?
Additional FAQ
How do I apply products?
How do I dry my hair?
How do I get multi-day curls?
Do I need to do CGM to get good curly results?
Can I do parts of the CGM?
My favorite product has silicones! What do I do?
How do I find a curly salon?

18
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

What hairstyle would look best on me?

How do I revive my curls in the morning?
But my hair isn't super dry, should I still do CG?
How do I tell if my hair is dry?
My hair isn't curly, it's frizzy and poofy. How do I deal with it?
ELI5: How do I apply gel? How much do I use? When do I put it in?
Is the CG method safe for colored/dyed hair?
What if I have dandruff? Will CG help me?
See this section for other common concerns (kids curls, hard water, swimming,
damaged hair, wearing hair up for work, & working out).

Problem: I don’t know if I need a haircut

How do I tell if I need a haircut?

If you have very dense sections, your hair isn't curling as well as it used to, or you have
obviously dry and damaged ends you might need a haircut.

Problem: Too much grease/oil

Why is my hair greasy now?

1. Did you do a final sulfate wash? If not, wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo or
shampoo that contains a sulfate to remove all the non-water-soluble silicones.

2. Your hair could be transitioning. Sulfates and harsh cleansers strip your scalp of oils.
To recover, your scalp overproduces oil, and it takes time for your scalp to realize it
doesn't need to generate so much oil. Be patient and try to stretch out the time
between washes. Give it 1 month at least.

3. Your scalp may just produce too much oil for cowashing. You can try doing low-poo or
no-poo to cleanse more as needed.

Problem: Hair seems to be falling out

Why is my hair falling out so much?

It probably isn't. The average human loses 120 hairs per day. If you have curly hair, those
loose hairs won't fall out unless you pull them out (i.e., by running your hands through,
combing, brushing, etc). For most, that only happens in the shower (since
brushing/combing/touching can disrupt curl patterns). If you only shower every 3 days, it

19
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

would be normal to lose 350 hairs in the shower. It can feel like a lot, but it's very rare for
someone to actually be losing more than normal. If you are very concerned, talk to a
doctor!

Terrible MS paint sketch of a “normal” amount of hair to lose

for hair a little past the shoulders, washing every few days:

Problem: Limp curls by the end of the day (or by day 2)

Why do my curls get limp?

• You may need products with more hold! Gel is the best product for that. Once the gel
is completely dry, you "scrunch out the crunch" to remove the gel cast and get soft,
bouncy curls again. No wet look! See here for more detail about using gel.

• Your hair might also be over-moisturized. Learn how to add protein to give them
strength again!

Problem: Frizz

My hair is frizzy. What's wrong?

Frizzy hair is usually dry hair. Make sure you're getting enough moisture in: deep
conditioning products can help, leave-in conditioners. Gel is typically considered the
number one frizz fighter! See the section on scrunching out the crunch (SOTC) if you're
worried about it looking crispy or wet.

Problem: Some parts are curlier than others

One layer of my hair is curlier than the other, why is this?

• Curl patterns can vary and lucky you, yours does. This is very common! Some use a
curling wand on the few straight strands. (Note that this will damage your hair).

20
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

• Make sure you're getting enough product everywhere! Sometimes folks think the
underside of their hair is straight, but when they are careful about adding leave-in
conditioner and gel down there it becomes just as curly as the rest.

• Try flipping your head upside down in the shower. The direct blast of water may be
too much for your hair, so getting that on the underside can help the top of your hair
look better.

• You could have a damaged “canopy” (outermost layer of your hair). Possible solutions
include a deep treatment on just the top layers and/or flipping your part.

• Watch this video for more tips.

• You can try pin curls or finger curling: where you use your fingers to curl a piece, and
then pin it up or coat it in gel to get it to stay.

Top 10 FAQ (Most Frequently Asked Questions)

1. What is my curl type?

Someone created a curl identification system to determine the "type" of one's curl.
We recommend not worrying about what "type" you are because:
1) It doesn't help you decide what products or techniques to use

2) Your hair will almost definitely change as you take better care of it.
See this example of one person's hair. The left image is fluffy, maybe a bit of texture,
curl type 1A if that, right? But the next picture is only a few months later, following
CG techniques and using only CG-approved products. Suddenly 2b, 2c with one or
two 3a and 2a sprinkled in!

3) Most people have a mix of curl types on their head, or don't neatly fit into a
single category.

21
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Porosity is far more important than curl type. This will affect your routine more than any
other detail about your hair.

● Read the section about porosity.

● Read more about porosity on the NaturallyCurly site. NOTE: NaturallyCurly
incorrectly says Low Porosity hair should avoid protein. This is incorrect!
Protein-sensitivity and porosity are unrelated.
● Take a quiz to help determine your porosity (thanks /u/sudosussudio!)

If you insist, we reluctantly share this naturallycurly link for finding your curl type.
All curl types from wavy to curly to kinky are welcome here!
2. How do I protect my hair overnight?
Read this guide on sleeping with curls in the wiki.
3. How do I revive my curls in the morning?
Read this guide on reviving curls in the wiki.
4. How often should I wash my hair?
Read this guide on cleansing.
Long story short: it's up to you! Some wash every 4-5 days, some do every 2-3 days, some
wash every day. (Note: "wash" can mean just water, co-wash, low-poo, no-poo, or regular
shampoo). If you're using CG-approved shampoo or co-washing, you can wash everyday
without damage.
5. How do I style my curly hair, or how do I use gel?
A lot of folks are scared of gel because in the 90s it was super flaky, and the style was to
have super "crunchy" and wet-looking hair. Fear not! Those days are behind us. Modern
gels don't get flaky, and you'll "scrunch out that crunch" to get soft, bouncy hair again so
don't be afraid to try!
6. What if I have dandruff/psoriasis/seborrheic dermatitis/need to use a
medicated shampoo?

Read our guide on scalp conditions in the wiki.

7. What if I want to wear my hair straight sometimes?

If you're going to use heat tools we recommend using a silicone-containing heat protectant
to keep the heat damage to a minimum. Since you now have silicones in your hair, you'll
need to do another reset/transition wash with a shampoo that HAS sulfates and NO
silicones to start CG over fresh!
Doing this once or twice every few months is probably fine, but more than that is not great
for your hair. But it's your hair! Do what you want :)
8. What do I do if I have short hair?

Adding some keywords for ctrl+F: pixie, male, guy

22
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

● The product recommendations are the same! Hair is hair regardless of length.
● Gel can be harder to use on very short hair (hair less than 1-2 inches). A very
small amount may help with definition. Oils may also help.
● Hair that's shorter than 3-4 inches may not curl very much. That's just due to
the length - it won't curl for a while. Give it time.
● Plopping also doesn't work for short hair (nothing to plop). Instead: gently pat
your hair with a microfiber towel or tshirt.
● Yes, you can use all the same techniques regardless of your gender. Everyone
deserves nice hair!

9. What is the transition period like?

● My hair gets greasy too fast!

○ If you just started CG: did you first do a reset/transition wash with a
shampoo that HAS sulfates but NO silicones? It's the most important
step. If you don't wash all the silicones away, your hair will get greasy,
dull, feel weighed-down, and can even become straight. Remember
this step! Double check if you're not sure! Use the ingredient checkers
to make sure you used a shampoo that HAS sulfates but NO
silicones: curlsbot.com or isitcg.com
○ If you're sure you did the reset/transition sulfate wash: Normal
shampoo strips all the natural oils out of your hair, so your scalp
starts overproducing to keep up. Once you stop removing oils, your
scalp takes a while to realize it doesn't need to produce so much.
This transition time can last between 1 day to a month. If you need to
remove more oils, you can try "low poo" or "no poo" for cleansing
options that will get rid of more grease but are still CG-approved. The
very very short list of go-to products is a good place to start. The
massive Holy Grail Product List has tons of other product options
(but it's overwhelming, so if you're new here we don't recommend
starting there!)
● My hair feels dry, rough, is losing its curl, and is like straw!
○ This really sounds like protein overload! Basically you need to scale
back on protein, and add a bunch more moisture to your hair to get
your moisture/protein balance settled again. Read the section of the
wiki all about protein to learn more.
● My hair is suddenly straight!
○ This is not a normal part of the transition! Your hair might be over-
moisturized. Check out the section of the wiki all about protein to
learn more.

23
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

10. Where can I find cruelty-free/fragrance-free/protein-free products?

NaturallyCurly has an excellent way to search for specific product types:
https://shop.naturallycurly.com/shop-by-ingredient-type/. Here's a user-created list of
fragrance-free options.
Cruelty free products are marked in the HG list.
For other questions: Look through the rest of the Frequently Asked Questions, search the
sub to see if anyone has asked before, comment in the weekly "No Question is Dumb
Thread", or make a new post!

Additional FAQ

How do I apply products?

See our library of techniques here.

How do I dry my hair?

See our guide on drying here.

How do I get multi-day curls?

See our guide on multi-day curls here.

Do I need to do CGM to get good curly results?

Nope! Lots of people have healthy, happy hair using standard ingredients. We have seen
LOTS of dramatic successes, though, and if you're having problems, the first thing people
will tell you is to switch to CG.

Can I do parts of the CGM?

The techniques can be used by anyone. If you cut out sulfates, you MUST also cut out
silicones or you'll never wash them off your hair since most of them are not water soluble.

My favorite product has silicones! What do I do?

You can keep using it! You will probably need to do a regular reset wash with a product that
has sulfates or you'll get build-up. Or you can find a new favorite that is CG-approved.
Check out the Holy Grail list for recommendations.

How do I find a curly salon?

24
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

The naturallycurly site has a search function, as does DevaCurl. But most folks have the
best luck with Yelp - just look for "curly approved" and call and ask for more details. If you
want a Deva-trained curly hair specialist, be sure to explicitly ask if they'll do the Deva dry
cut. (Don’t just ask if they cut curly hair -- virtually every stylist will say yes, even if they are
not trained specifically to cut curly hair.)

What hairstyle would look best on me?

Check out /r/HairStyle or /r/HairStyleAdvice !

How do I revive my curls in the morning?

Read this advanced guide on reviving curls in the morning in the wiki.

But my hair isn't super dry, should I still do CG?

Although you are one of the lucky few with well-nourished hair right from the start, a lot of
the techniques used in CG can still help you with managing frizz and getting curls to clump.
You can probably afford to be a little more relaxed about choosing products, and pick and
choose what aspects of the method work for you.

How do I tell if my hair is dry?

Frizzy hair is dry hair. If it's frizzy, poofy, undefined, you may have dry hair.

My hair isn't curly, it's frizzy and poofy. How do I deal with it?

You suuuuuuure? Many many many (many) people who think they have frizzy, poofy,
messy, unruly hair actually have curly hair that's in desperate need of moisture.

ELI5: How do I apply gel? How much do I use? When do I put it in?

Typical gel use-case for someone w/ shoulder-length, fine hair:

● A handful of gel (approximately 1/3 of a cup).

● Put into hair when it's soaking dripping wet.
● Next, plop w/ a tshirt to catch drips. You can also gently scrunch for the first 10
minutes.
● Don't touch hair until it's dry.
● When it's completely dry, "scrunch out the crunch" to avoid the wet look and have
soft, bouncy, defined curls.

25
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Is the CG method safe for colored/dyed hair?

Yes! In fact, most color safe shampoos are also sulfate free. Going to CG should help your
color last longer by using gentler products and washing less often.

What if I have dandruff? Will CG help me?

See the section on dandruff & scalp conditions!

Long story short, CGM may make your dandruff better or worse, depending on what is
causing your dandruff.

● If your dandruff is from dry scalp, CGM will probably help.

● If your dandruff is from a scalp condition, CGM may exacerbate the condition.

26
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

General Info and Techniques

Cleansing
How often should I wash my hair?

It's up to you! Some wash every 4-5 days, some do every 2-3 days, some wash every day.
(Note: "wash" can mean just water, co-wash, low-poo, no-poo, or regular shampoo). If
you're using CG-approved shampoo or co-washing, you can wash everyday without
damage.

The amount of conditioning you do also depends on your hair, lifestyle, schedule,
preferences, etc. It's probably easiest to start off by sticking to your usual washing
schedule, but only condition/co-wash on those days instead of shampooing. You may find
that you need to condition more or less, but it's a good starting point.

If you workout a lot, you may want to rinse your hair after and co-wash on those days. A lot
of folks wash/condition only once a week, and "refresh" between washes as needed. Many
find that their hair benefits from getting conditioner every time it gets wet, or it will dry out
too much.

There's a LOT of trial and error here. ;)

(Thanks to /u/sea_of_clouds for the phrasing of much of this section!)

Types of cleansers

There are generally three classes of cleansers:

Creamy cleansers

These don't foam up at all. Using conditioner to wash your hair (called "Conditioner Only
washing, or "cowashing"), or using a product marketed as a "cowash" would fall here. (See
here for more info on cowashing.)

Low Sudsing cleansers

These foam up a little bit, but don't have harsh detergents in them like sulfates. Often CG
approved, and much more gentle on your hair. Can be marketed as "no poo" or "low poo".

27
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Clarifying sulfate cleansers

These foam up a LOT, and are "normal shampoos" that most people are familiar with.
Usually have harsh cleansers like sulfates that trip hair of natural oils and can be overly
drying.

No cleanser

There's also a fourth option: "going nopoo" can mean completely stopping all forms of hair
products, and only using baking soda, apple cider vinegar, or just water to clean your hair.
We do not recommend this. Baking soda is the wrong pH for your hair and scalp and skin,
and can cause long-term problems. Apple cider vinegar can make a great rinse if you dilute
it 50:50 with water and only use once a week.

The science behind avoiding sulfates

Understandably, a lot of the CG method comes across as woo woo or unscientific. And
that’s partially true and deserved -- many of these techniques have developed from
anecdotal experience. While we may not necessarily know why “squish to condish” works
so well (although Wendy from science-y hair blog has a good guess [1]) or how the gel cast
forms, we do know (scientifically) that use of sulfates is tied to dry and damaged hair.

First, let’s address the myth floating around that we avoid sulfates because they are
dangerous or cause cancer. This is not true; sulfates are not dangerous in the
concentrations approved for use in cosmetics [2]. Sulfates can cause contact dermatitis in
rare cases, especially for those with eczema, but this is not why we avoid them.

The anecdotal feeling of dryness after using a shampoo with SLS can be backed up by
studies measuring characteristics of hair before and after application. We describe hair as
feeling “dry” or “strawlike,” especially over time. One study (Sandhu and Robbins) measured
damage by quantifying protein loss after bleaching, perming, and exposing the hair to
surfactants [3]. The section of the study related to surfactants demonstrated that hair
treated with SLS and ALS produced statistically significant protein loss compared to water.
If the cuticle is damaged (for example, by coloring, permanent straightening treatments, or
heat), this protein loss effect is even more dramatic. Bellare et al. measured damage via the
uplift of the cuticle on a scanning electron microscope [4]. This study compared control
hairs (untreated) with hairs treated with SLS and their own lab-made shampoos with and
without conditioning agents. SLS had significantly more uplift compared to the control
group.

28
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

It is worth noting that there is no scientific evidence that sulfate-free shampoos are less
damaging than their sulfate counterparts [5]. This does not mean that they are “better” or
“worse” than SLS, just that there is not enough information.

There are also a good handful of science-minded bloggers. Wendy of science-y hair blog
has some fantastic articles, including one with some fun microscope pictures of hair
treated under varying conditions [6]. Erica Douglas is a cosmetic chemist with a BS in
Chemical Engineering, who writes some articles at naturallycurly and runs her own
website/blog [7]. See [8] for a naturallycurly article she wrote on surfactants.

[1] Not peer-reviewed, but Wendy is a science-minded blogger http://science-

yhairblog.blogspot.com/2018/08/conditioning-technique-squish-to.html

[2] http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/706110/SODIUM_LAURYL_SULFATE/

[3] Hair damage caused by sulfates, measured by protein loss:

http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.569.6710&rep=rep1&type=pdf

[4] Hair damage caused by sulfates, measured by uplift of the cuticle on a SEM
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00056.x

[5] Counterpoint about sulfate-free shampoos: there is no scientific evidence that sulfate-
free shampoos are less damaging than their sulfate counterparts.
https://www.aad.org/media/news-releases/getting-past-the-hype-dermatologist-untangles-
common-hair-care-misconceptions

[6] Not peer-reviewed, but Wendy is a science-minded blogger http://science-

yhairblog.blogspot.com/2011/08/shampoos-harsh-mild-and-otherwise.html

[7] Erica Douglas, a cosmetic chemist with a Chemical Engineering degree

http://www.sisterscientist.com/

[8] Naturallycurly article about surfactants, written by Erica Douglas:

https://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/home/the-truth-about-sulfates-according-to-
science

Co-washing
(Major thanks to /u/HolyChickenWing for providing much of the text for this section!)

29
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Co-wash vs Leave-in vs Rinse-out vs..... Conditioners that are advertised as 'cowash

conditioners' (AsIAm, African Pride, etc) are usually a bit thinner in consistency than a rinse
out conditioner. Something that's advertised as a cowash usually has specific ingredients
that are tailored to cleanse the scalp and remove debris/buildup.

HOWEVER: many conditioners that are marketed as normal/"rinse out" conditioners

actually work very well for co-washing. Those who co-wash often use massive handfuls of
products to get slip and really cleanse and moisturize their hair, so it's good to start with
something very inexpensive.

Rinse out conditioners usually aren’t tailored for cleansing the scalp or removing build up. A
rinse out conditioner’s main purpose is to add moisture to the hair, so it is usually a much
thicker formula of ingredients and consistency. Rinse out conditioners are usually praised
the most if they have a great “slip” to allow for easier detangling. When you use a rinse out
conditioner, you aren’t massively scrubbing the scalp to remove debris either. You are just
applying the conditioner to the hair, detangling and rinsing after a few minutes. That differs
greatly from the co washing process.

• You'll have to find what works for you through trial and error.

• If you have very fine hair, consider avoiding products with shea butter as they can
weigh hair down.

• It's easy, cheap, and often very effective to start using only one conditioner to co-wash,
and leave a bit of that in your hair for extra moisture.

• If you need more moisture, and your co-wash conditioner isn't working well, then it
might be time to look for a dedicated leave-in.

Technique

● To cowash, emulsify a little conditioner in your hands (moosh your hands together
and rub them back and forth so conditioner gets all over your hands).
● Insert your fingers into the hair, starting at your forehead, and begin to scrub your
scalp with your fingertips (no nails!).
● Move your fingers backwards over the scalp, gently rubbing and scrubbing. You
might need more conditioner, so pour out a little more, emulsify again, and this
time
● insert your fingers into the hair starting at your temples. Repeat the gentle
scrubbing, moving your hands up and back towards your crown.

30
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

● Now repeat again, this time starting at your neck, and moving up the scalp.
● By the time you're done, your entire scalp should have gotten scrubbed.
● Now is the time to rinse - but don't just dunk your head. While rinsing, continue to
rub and scrub your scalp to get all the conditioner and dirt and oils off your scalp
and out of your hair.

Conditioning
This is the most important part (moisture, moisture, moisture!). Your conditioner must be
able to be washed out by co-washing or a low poo or it will build up and cause limp, frizzy
curls. To do this, we make sure all the ingredients can be washed out with just water,
avoiding silicones, waxes, and other non-water-soluble ingredients.

To apply your CG-friendly conditioner, we heartily recommend squish to condish (S2C),

described below. This helps form gorgeous, healthy curl clumps.

Just to be clear, conditioning is a separate step after co-washing. Cowashing is about

scrubbing your scalp to remove oil and dirt. Conditioning is about adding conditioner to the
length of your hair to moisturize it!

Detangling using conditioner

Detangle your hair by applying gobs of conditioner to your wet hair. Work through knots
starting at the ends, and use either your fingers or a wide tooth comb. Do not use stiff
bristled brushes! Using a brush like that will disrupt your curl pattern and create the
dreaded frizz halo. A wide-toothed comb is ok, as is a tangle teezer, or a "wet brush", but
only use them while your hair is wet, preferably before styling.

OK to use (only while wet):

(Left to right: wide-toothed comb, “wet brush”, tangle teezer, classic denman brush)

Never OK to use:

(Left to right: round brush, boar bristle denman brush)

31
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Squish to Condish (S2C)

S2C uses just water and conditioner to hydrate your curls and help them form into curl
clumps. The basic idea is to get LOTS of water into your hair, aided by conditioner.
Conditioner helps hydrate hair, but the real goal is to get water into your hair. You scoop
handfuls of water into your hair and squish/squeeze/squelch it with your hands until it
makes a 'squelching' sound like a rubber duck. If it isn't making the rubber duck noise, you
need more conditioner. If you add in a gel into your routine, that will be the very next step-
smooth it over your hair and then scrunch it in for a nice, even coating. To remove excess
moisture and product from your hair so it dries reasonably, scrunch it with a microfiber
towel or a tshirt and don't touch it as it air dries!

• Here's a great article from Naturally Curly on Squish to Condish

• See this thread for an ELI5 on S2C.

• Here's a helpful video!

Major thanks to /u/HolyChickenWing for helping to expand this writeup!

Styling
Types of styling products

Styling products will help keep your curls clumped together and frizz-free. If you're not sure
what to do, try a gel first.

Gel

• If you're not sure what to do, try a gel first. (Yes, really!)

• Has the most hold

• Best for curl definition and keeping frizz at bay

• Modern gels won’t make you look like a 12 year old boy in the mid-2000’s! We promise!
(See the next bullet point) Don't be afraid to try!

32
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

• Once the gel is completely dry, you "scrunch out the crunch" to remove the gel cast
and get soft, bouncy curls again. No wet look!

Mousse
• Lightweight for easily weighed down wavy hair

• Works better in wavy hair than other types

Cream
• Can be light or heavy

• Best for especially dry hair or hair that is not weighed down easily

Techniques

Experiment with how much water your hair has before adding products. Many curlies apply
products when their hair is sopping wet. Others need to scrunch some water out first.

The basic, straightforward way to apply products: Dispense a palm full of product into
your hand. Cup your curls in your hand and scrunch upwards toward your head, trying to
distribute the product evenly without breaking up your curls.

Helpful hint: if your hair is frizzy when you leave the shower, it won't get any better after it
dries! After it's dry, scrunch your hair to remove any crunchiness.

Super Soaker

Add all of your products to your hair by scrunching or raking the product through with your
fingers. Then cup your hands and fill them with water. Scrunch the water directly into your
product filled hair. Do this all the way around and you're done!

33
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Finger coiling

Finger coiling helps define each curl individually. Apply your product by running your
fingers through your hair. Take a small, curl-sized piece of hair and smooth it out. Tighter
curls should generally take smaller chunks, and looser curls can take larger chunks. Twirl
the curl around your finger, keeping it long, and once it is twisted, keep twirling so that it
wraps itself around your finger, getting closer to your scalp. Drop the curl and repeat with a
new section.

Leave-in, Oil, Cream (LOC)

Kinky and coily hair does well with the LOC method. The acronym refers to the order in
which you apply products -- leave-in conditioner first, then oil, then cream. Here is an article
all about this method. A variation of the LOC method is the LCO method where cream is
added before the oil is. This variation seals the cuticle with oil after moisturizing with cream
versus sealing before moisturizing. Give both methods a try and see which one you like
best!

Here is a great post about oils and how to choose one that works for you!

Rake & Shake

Ouidad (one of the major curly hair companies) has a method called the Rake and Shake
Method. Here is a video of the method.

Scrunch Out the Crunch (SOTC)

Sometimes when using a high-hold gel, a crunchy layer forms, also known as a gel cast. This
is a good thing as it helps keep your curls from frizzing while drying, but we need to get rid
of the crunch to avoid looking like ramen noodles (unless that's your thing). This is where
SOTC comes in.

Here are some resources for learning SOTC:

• Video showing scrunch out the crunch

• Naturallycurly guide on SOTC

• Naturallycurly guide on the gel cast

Before and after SOTC:

34
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

The gel in the left picture dried hard and “crunchy.” That's okay! Great actually! This
hardened gel is the "gel cast," and it helps keep your curls together and frizz-free.

How to use gel and SOTC

● After you've cleansed and conditioned, while still in the shower with hair
dripping wet, get a large amount of gel on your hand. No, more gel. No really -
more gel. For thin, fine, shoulder-length hair one user needs a generous,
lemon-sized handful of LA Looks or another strong hold gel. Scrunch it into
your hair, focusing on the ends. Keep scrunching - working some gel up near
your scalp. If you need more volume, really get some gel up there to give your
hair support while it's drying.
● Gently squeeze with an old tshirt, or plop if that works for you.
● Once the gel is completely dry, scrunch your hair in your hands (click for a
video) to break the cast of gel (the crunchy hardened gel is called the ‘gel cast’).
You may need to “rub” your hair while it’s scrunched in your fist. You also may
need to rub your fingers against your roots to break the cast nearer to your
head. Don’t be afraid to get aggressive with the scrunching, your curls won’t
separate or stretch unless you run something (like a brush or your fingers)
through them. Your hair should now be in soft, shiny curls!. No wet look!

Suggested adjustments:

● Try drying your hair a bit before applying gel (often works well for low porosity
folks).
● Play around with the amount of gel.
● Start paying attention to humidity levels, dew point, and humectants.

35
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

● Try a different gel! Not all gels work with all hair.
● Gel shouldn't flake: if it's flaking, it probably doesn't agree with your leave-in.
Change one or the other.

Major thanks to /u/queeninthenorthsansa for providing such a great picture! Check out her
thread of gel advice here.

Shingling

Shingling is a method of applying products that elongates the curl and distributes product
to every single strand of hair. It works well with stronger curl patterns.

Divide your hair into 5-6 sections around your head. Distribute your product through each
section, working the product from the roots to your ends and making sure to smooth and
elongate the curl to remove any frizz. You can apply the product by finger-combing, using a
wide-tooth comb, or using a brush. (This is one of the only times it's okay to use a brush.)
As usual, don't touch your hair during the drying process.

Common modifications to CG

36
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

I still want to use silicones, what do I change?

If you want to use silicones, you MUST use a shampoo with sulfates either every wash or
once in a while. If you do not do this, you will get buildup and frizz.

I have to use a medicated shampoo, is that okay?

Yes! Your medicated shampoo automatically overrules CG. If you find that it is drying your
scalp or hair, try a weekly deep moisture treatment or a richer daily conditioner to
counteract the dryness. See the section on dandruff & scalp conditions here.

My hair is especially damaged, is there anything special I need to do?

Check out our tips for damaged hair here!

Curl type (and why it doesn’t matter)

What’s MY curl type?

Someone created a curl identification system to determine the "type" of one's curl.

We recommend not worrying about what "type" you are because:

1) It doesn't help you decide what products or techniques to use,

2) Your hair will almost definitely change as you take better care of it. Example:

The left image is fluffy, maybe a bit of texture, curl type 1A if that, right? But the right

37
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

picture is only a few months later, following CG techniques and using only CG-approved
products. Suddenly 2b, 2c with one or two 3a and 2a sprinkled in!
3) Most people have a mix of curl types on their head, or don't neatly fit into a single
category.

Porosity is far more important than curl type. This will affect your routine more than
any other detail about your hair.

• Read our section about porosity.

• Read more about porosity on the NaturallyCurly site.

– NOTE: NaturallyCurly incorrectly says Low Porosity hair should avoid protein.
From our experience, we’ve seen TONS of evidence that protein-sensitivity and
porosity are unrelated. There are tons of folks with low porosity hair that have
great success with protein, and high porosity hair that is protein sensitive.

• Take a user-created quiz to help determine your porosity (thanks /u/sudosussudio !)

If you insist, we reluctantly share this naturallycurly link for finding your curl type.

All curl types from wavy to curly to kinky are welcome here! Most of the tips, techniques,
and products were created by and for women with kinky hair.

Coloring/dyeing
● Bleaching and dyeing WILL damage your hair. No way around it. It’s still fun though!!
● Bleached and/or dyed hair is usually more porous. This may change what your hair
prefers in terms of techniques and products.
● Add protein treatments before AND after color-treating hair to give it strength.
● Lots of extra deep conditioning is important too.
● For tips on HOW to bleach your hair at home, check out this detailed post.

Drying
Curly hair is often thick and dense, and drying it can be a long process! Typical drying times
can vary from 45 minutes to more than 12 hours. This section is your guide to plopping, air
drying, and diffusing.

38
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

You can either air dry or use a diffuser to dry your hair. Do not touch it until it's dry! The
less you touch it, the less it will frizz.

When you step out of the shower, gently scrunch your hair so that it is no longer dripping,
using a t-shirt or microfiber towel. (Never ever rub it dry with a regular terry towel!)

YES: Microfiber towel (left), NO: Terry towel (right)

Plopping

Plopping works amazingly for some and poorly for others. It's definitely worth a try! When
you plop, you are wrapping your hair up in a specific way to draw some water from your
hair before you air dry or diffuse. Most people plop for 15-20 minutes.

Here are some great guides on plopping:

• plopping in less than a minute

• naturallycurly's guide (with photos, for tshirt or microfiber towel)

• Youtube video (there are many others, just search for "plopping curly hair")

To plop or not to plop?

Plopping has some great benefits. It can:

• Set curls

• Help you avoid touching by keeping it out of your face

• Prevent gravity from stretching out your curls

• Avoid the effects of humidity (sometimes)

39
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

However, if it doesn't work for you, you're not alone. Sometimes hair just doesn't like to
plop and that's okay! It is especially hit-or-miss for short hair.

How to plop

You can use any of these, in order of typical preference:

• large t-shirt, preferably with long sleeves

• microfiber towel

• plain kitchen-type towel with no terry (so, no fluffy towel)

• any other towel

Plopping instructions

These instructions are tricky without pictures, so don't worry if you don't get it right away.
It's not too difficult to do, just hard to explain. See the links above for more help including
pictures and videos.

1. Start with freshly washed hair.

2. Lay your towel* down on the floor in front of you.

○ * we use towel to refer to your plopping device of choice -- t-shirt, microfiber

towel, or other towel

○ T-shirt: face the shirt away from you on the ground, so the arms are furthest
from your head.

○ Microfiber or other towel: lay the towel so the longest edge is closest to your
head.

3. Dangle your wet hair over the middle of the towel.

4. Grab the ends of the towel and press your head down on the towel.

5. Twist the ends of the towel as you begin to stand up. Keep twisting until the curls are
trapped inside and you have two side rolls of the towel.

6. Clip, tie, or tuck the ends of your plop into the towel at the base of your neck, or wrap
the arms around your head.

Reverse Plopping

40
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Thanks to /u/toothlesspolecat for this technique and these excellent pictures!

1. The reverse plop starts from a standing position, with your wet hair just hanging
normally down your back. Lay the hem of a large long sleeve t-shirt across your
shoulders, with the neck and sleeves hanging below. Take the corners of the hem
(points A and B) and wrap them tightly to the top of your forehead, tucking one corner
under the other at point C so that it's secure.

2. Halfway down the body of the shirt (point D), fold it upwards so that it envelopes your
hair and the neckband is hanging out somewhere at the back of your head. Fold it up
and forwards again, so that point D is sitting near C at your forehead. Your sleeves are
just dangling at this point.

41
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

3. Pull the sleeves forward and tie them in a square not kind of on top of the D point, to
hold everything in place. Tuck the tails into the folds at the sides. Depending on the
length of your sleeves and how secure your wrap is so far, you may find it easier to
first cross the sleeves behind your head before bringing them forward to knot them. It
just adds a little more tension to keep it intact.

Try to keep the folding loose, but the knotting tight.

Air drying

How to air dry

After washing your hair, either plop your hair or gently scrunch it dry with a t-shirt or non-
terry towel. Rearrange your part as needed, and fix any funky curls. If you want more
volume at the roots, try clipping your roots while air drying! If you have bangs, now the time
to arrange them how you like them. They will tend to stay however they dried.

Leave your hair alone until it's dry -- touching will create frizz!

If you would like to air dry your hair overnight, flip your hair so that it rests at the top of
your pillow. A satin or silk pillowcase can be helpful. We do NOT recommend sleeping in a
plop, since having wet fabric against your scalp all night can cause long-term issues like
fungus.

Diffusing

How to diffuse your curls

As with anything else in the curly world, there is no single correct way to diffuse your hair.
Here is the basic method described by the Curly Girl book:

42
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Flip your head upside down or tilt it to the side. Using medium to low temperature and low
speed, cup a section of your curls in the bowl of the diffuser. Scrunch the diffuser towards
your scalp and let it sit on that section for 10-30 seconds before moving to a new section.
Continue working around your scalp, returning to your first section after making it all the
way around. Keep diffusing until you reach your desired dryness.

Extra tips:

• Use temperature wisely! Yes, hot air will speed things along; however, it can cause
heat damage and frizz from uneven drying. Likewise in the other extreme, using only
cold air can be slower and even cause frizz from needing to diffuse for so long. An
optional blast of hot air at the start can help to set curls, followed by cool or warm air
for the rest of the process.

• Some people like to diffuse for 5-10 minutes before air drying the rest of the way to
give it a little head start. Give it a try and see if it works for you!

• Discussion thread about diffusing techniques

• Also check out this guide on diffusing from naturallycurly

How do I find a good diffuser and/or blow-dryer?

• The diffusers that say "universal sizing" are never universally sized.

• When looking for a blow dryer and diffuser it's very important to be 100% certain the
diffuser will fit on the blow dryer. You can spend some time looking into the fit, asking
around and measuring the diameter of the barrel but the best ways to be absolutely
certain is to purchase them as a set, or you can buy the diffuser first and take it to a
store where they have display models. If you ask nicely they will usually let you try the
diffuser on the floor models so you can feel how fast and hot the air is coming through
the diffuser.

• Make sure the blow dryer has a cool setting, and you may also want a cool shot
button. Depending on how much time you have/your hair/how strictly cg you decide to
go, you may choose to use low heat and temper it to make it a bit cooler using the cool
shot button.

• Look for a blow dryer that has a click button and not a slide if you think you may blow
dry upside down (most of us seem to). It's more trouble to fiddle with the slidey kind
when you can't see, and if you want to try different diffuser methods like pixie drying
you'll be turning it on and off upside down and blind (jeez that sounds scary).

43
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

• You will also want to look at the weight and volume of the blow dryer as depending on
your hair you may be using it for a long while.

(Thanks to /u/HoloSprinkles for this great writeup!)

Tips for Volume

• Dry upside down with a diffuser (on low/medium heat, low speed).

• Clip your roots, either with flat metal clips or lift with a claw/butterfly clip, and let air
dry. (Thanks to /u/toothlesspolecat for the excellent picture!).

• "Fluff" and scrunch your hair once it's dry.

• Add mousse near your scalp to give more volume.

• Use a pick to "fluff" your hair up (yes, this can even work on looser curl types).

Haircuts
How do I find a curly salon?

The naturallycurly site has a search function, as does DevaCurl. But most folks have the
best luck with Yelp - just look for "curly approved" and call and ask for more details. If you

44
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

want a Deva-trained curly hair specialist, be sure to explicitly ask if they'll do the Deva dry
cut.

If you want to cut your hair yourself, here is a video some users have found helpful.

What hairstyle would look best on me?

Check out /r/HairStyle or /r/HairStyleAdvice ! You can also look on Pinterest :)

Is it possible to achieve <insert style here> style naturally for my hair?

It depends! If you ask this question in r/curlyhair, it is very difficult for us to answer unless
we have both a photo of your hair and an example of your “goal hair”. Why? Achieving a
particular style naturally highly depends on your curl type.

Now, we typically don’t recommend finding your curl type, but this is probably the one
situation where it is actually helpful.* Searching on google by hair type is much more
helpful than just “curly hair styles.”

Long story short, if you have a different curl type from your “goal hair,” it may not be
possible to achieve that style without heat. For example, let’s say Joe Jonas stops by
r/curlyhair and asks if he can get Jon Snow-like hair naturally. Joe has wavy, roughly 2b/c
hair and Jon Snow has somewhere around 3a/b hair (depending on who you ask and on the
picture). Joe can’t get a hairstyle that looks like Jon’s without a curling iron (and a lot of
work), and vice versa. But that’s okay! There are lots of great styles for both hair types.

(*The exception to this is if your hair is damaged and not yet back to it's true curl type.
Sometimes people find their hair gets wavier or curlier (usually curlier) after some TLC.)

Multi-day curls
What is second day hair? (or third, or fourth...)

Second day hair is hair that is not washed, but worn naturally a "second day" in a row. (You
can still shower (!), but don't wash your hair. A shower cap can be helpful!)

Sleeping with curls

If you're after multi-day curls and are the kind of person to move around a lot while
sleeping, you might be wondering how to manage your precious locks. Here are some

45
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

options to keep them nice overnight. Note that these techniques tend to work best with
hard hold gels, but play around and see what works for you! (We're assuming your hair is
already dry.)

• Sleep in a "pineapple": See naturallycurly's guide. A scrunchie or ribbon elastic hair tie
works best to avoid breakage and the dreaded crease.

• Plop in a silk or satin scarf: Wrap your curls in a silk or satin scarf and secure.

• Wear a silk or satin bonnet: Gently place your curls in the bonnet, either pineappled or
loose.

• Use a silk or satin pillowcase: Replace your pillowcase with one that is slipperier to
avoid frizz.

• Loosely braid your hair: If you have medium or long hair, you can loosely braid it. A
scrunchie or ribbon elastic hair tie works best to avoid breakage and the dreaded
crease.

Here's a video with various techniques.

Morning tips for multi-day curls

These tips can work totally differently for everyone, depending on lots of factors like how
much oil your scalp produces, hair porosity, how humid it is where you live, etc. You might
have to try these out on days where you can throw it up into The Bun (or a braid) if it
doesn't work out. Note that these techniques tend to work best with hard hold gels, but
play around and see what works for you!

Check out this thread for more tips!

Happy experimenting!

Option 1: Re-do

1. Completely re-wet your hair.

2. Add more conditioner in, maybe squish2condish a bit.

3. Add more gel in.

Option 2: Spray bottle

1. Fill a spray bottle with water and a squirt of your normal conditioner OR just water.

46
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

2. Lightly dampen your curls to reactivate the products that are already in your hair.

3. Scrunch your curls and smooth the frizz back into its curl tendril.

Option 3: Wet hands

1. Wet your hands with watered down conditioner OR just water OR gel OR watered
down gel.

2. Smooth any frizz back into its original curl tendril.

Option 4: Scrunch with water

Only use this if you have enough time to let it dry. Great for short curls, curls with lots of
shrinkage, or just the bangs.

1. Cup your hands and fill them with water.

2. Scrunch the water into your ends to reactivate the products that are already in your
hair (feel free to add more product as needed - you'll have to experiment with what
works for you!).

3. Repeat for all of your curls.

4. Air dry or diffuse your hair. You can also try plopping if that works for you!

Option 5: Curl-by-curl

1. Find a limp or frizzy curl and section it out from the rest of your hair.

2. Moisten your fingers and take a drop of your styler.

3. Smooth the product along the curl, taking care of any frizzies as you go.

4. Twirl the curl with your finger, and either let the curl drop or pin it to your scalp with a
bobby pin.

5. Scrunch your curls and you're ready to go!

You can do this for as few or as many curls as you like!

Option 6: Embrace the frizz

Simply shake out your curls and scrunch while flipped upside down! You can also tousle
your roots, but don't run your fingers through the curls or they will be broken up (unless
you like that look of course!).

47
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Porosity
Thanks to /u/honeywithbiscuits for this great writeup!

What is porosity?

Porosity is your hair’s ability to both absorb and retain moisture. Your hair has an
outermost layer (called the "cuticle"). Your porosity is determined by how well your hair
cuticle “opens up” in water and how well it “closes” once dry.

Why should I care about porosity?

Porosity plays a big part in how well your curls stay and become hydrated. Without
properly moisturized curls, your hair will be more prone to frizz and have difficulty
retaining its curl.

Low-porosity hair needs different things than high porosity hair. Understanding your
porosity is crucial for picking the right products and techniques for your hair!

Levels of porosity

There are three levels of porosity: low, medium (or normal), and high. Typically, those with
very high or very low porosity have problems.

Low porosity hair has difficulty opening up the cuticle to receive moisture from water and
conditioning agents. However, because the hair shaft so readily closes, low porosity hair
has no issues retaining moisture once it gets it.

High porosity hair has the opposite problem. Because the hair shaft is more open, it has
more difficulty closing when drying so any moisture that makes it in also escapes very
easily.

If you have damaged hair, either by bleach, heat usage, or coloring treatments, you likely
have high porosity hair. Some people have high porosity hair naturally. See below for how
to identify!

Medium would be considered “normal” and easy to work with. If you have no issues adding
moisture or retaining it, good for you! You most likely have medium porous hair or may
have unintentionally picked up habits more suitable for your hair type because you found
that it worked.

Identifying porosity

48
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

You can take a quiz to determine your hair's porosity! (Thanks /u/sudosussudio!)

A quick Google search will lead you to the two most common techniques: the infamous
“float test” and the less known “strand test”. Both are difficult to do right, so give inaccurate
results. Oils, silicones, and hair density can affect how hair floats in water and your hair
doesn’t necessarily have to be free of bumps in order to be considered “low” porosity. See
this excellent post from the excellent hair science-y blog for more info.

Characteristics

Low Porosity

● Takes more than 2 seconds for hair to get wet even directly under the water.

● Water beads on hair instead of wetting it.

● Products accumulate more easily (because they are not getting absorbed).

● Drying time for hair can be hours to days.

● More resistant to chemical treatment such as relaxers or permanent hair dye.

High Porosity

● Gets wet immediately with any water.

● Hair seems to soak up products.

● Dries quickly after being washed.

● Easily accepts dye or bleach. (May also easily lose it).

● Can have a dull and dry feel

● Tangles easily

● Tends to be frizzy

Porosity-specific recommendations

Once you know your hair porosity, you can adjust your hair routine accordingly. Some parts
of your hair may be more porous than others due to genetics or treatment of hair, so you
can try different techniques in different areas.

49
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Low porosity recommendations

● Use heat to open up hair for conditioning agents.

○ Wash your hair with warm to hot water to open the cuticle.

○ Use a specialized heating cap like the ones from Thermal Hair Care or Hair
Therapy.

○ Place your hair in a plastic cap and use a heated towel over your head (place
in clothes dryer to heat) with conditioner in to help it absorb.

● Lighter hair products. Here is our complete list of light low porosity products.

○ Use lighter oils to seal your hair like jojoba, argan and grapeseed oil.

○ Avoid heavier oils and butters that will just weigh down the hair and build up
on the shaft, leaving a greasy look.

● Regularly clarify or shampoo to rid of build up.

○ Many brands have gentle "build-up busters" that aren't as harsh as regular
shampoo. Try these once a month at the start, using more or less frequently
as needed.

○ Try an Apple Cider Vinegar rinse (1 tablespoon ACV to 2 cups of water).

High porosity recommendations

● Use heavy oils and butters to moisturize and seal.

○ Look for conditioners that have shea butter or heavier oils like castor, olive or
coconut oil.

○ If you have fine hair that gets easily weighed down, try a weekly deep
conditioner instead.

● Use a deep conditioner.

○ Conditioners marketed as deep conditioners have moisturizing, reparative

ingredients that can help heal your hair as well as moisture it.

Low-porosity shopping guide

50
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Look at the top 5 or so ingredients; these are the ones in highest concentration and have
the most effect on the formula. However, note that the ingredients only tell you if there is
more or less of one ingredient compared to another, but won’t tell you how much. Two
products could have the exact same ingredients but be very different, since one could be
say 80% water and the other 20%. As long as water was the most abundant ingredient, it
would still be listed as the first ingredient. So keep in mind that reading an ingredient list
can give you a sense of a product’s formula/texture but it isn’t an exact science.

Ingredients to look for:

● Fatty alcohols (aka good alcohols)

● Marshmallow root
● Slippery elm
● Aloe vera
● Glycerin*

*A note on glycerin, since it works great in some climates but not in others. Aloe vera is
somewhat of a humectant too.

Ingredients to be careful with:

● Shea butter
● Castor oil
● Other oils*

*Some oils are lighter/heavier than others, but even light ones can be too heavy if they’re in
large concentrations

Example of an ingredient list that’s bad for low porosity:

Deionized Water, Butyrospermum Parkii ( Shea Butter)*, Argan Oil, Coconut Oil*,
Behentrimonium Chloride, Essential Oil Blend, Vegetable Glycerin, Emulsifying Wax, Sea Kelp
Extract, Panthenol (Vitamin B-5) Avocado Oil, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and)
Lonicera Japonica ( Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Daucus
Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil *Certified Organic Ingredient.

After water, the next three ingredients are butters and oils. This formula is basically all oils
and butters; other than glycerin there are no lightweight moisturizers. This is a very heavy
formula that will likely severely weigh down low porosity hair.

51
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Example of an ingredient list that’s good for low porosity:

Water (Aqua), Cetyl Alcohol, Stearalkonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride, Fragrance, Glyceryl
Stearate, DMDM Hydantoin, Disodium EDTA, Red 33 (CI 17200), Polysorbate 20, Propylene Glycol,
Stearyl Alcohol, Steareth-21, Tocopheryl Acetate, Soymilk, Panthenol, Ascorbic Acid, Fragaria
Vesca Leaf Extract (Strawberry), Niacinamide, Biotin

This formula has no oils or butters. It has lots of fatty alcohols, which provide lightweight
moisture and slip. This is an extremely lightweight formula that might actually not be
moisturizing enough for some. It is a great option for cowashing and for those with
extremely low porosity hair.

Example of an ingredient list that’s difficult to parse:

Water (Agua), Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) Butter, Quaternium-
91, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Stearalkonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Chloride, Myristyl
Myristate, Lactobacillus/Tomato Fruit Ferment Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Keratin Amino
acids, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment filtrate, Acyl Coenzyme A Desaturase,
Hydroxyethylcellulose, Fragrance (Parfum),Disodium Edta, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin,
Citric Acid.

This formula does have shea butter, but it’s listed after two fatty alcohols. Since we don’t
know how much shea butter there is exactly compared to how much fatty alcohol, we don’t
totally know how heavy/light this formula will be. If there’s a large concentration of water
and fatty alcohols with just a little bit of shea butter and everything else, it could be totally
fine. For this formula, we’ll have to do more research- look at reviews to see if other people
mention it being thick/thin, weighing their hair down, or working well on their low porosity
hair. Also consider how your hair reacts to shea butter. Some hair just hates shea even in
little amounts, other hair is ok with it as long as it’s not the dominant ingredient in the
formula.

YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary)

Obviously, your hair is unique! The above are just recommendations based on what we've
seen work. Post questions if you have them!

52
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Do what works for you: there are no curly hair police :) If you have low porosity hair that
thrives off of protein treatments or high porosity hair that does fine with grapeseed oil for
sealing, by all means continue.

However, if you are experiencing issues with frizz, retaining moisture, or curl definition,
porosity is important info to have as you start!

53
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Products & Ingredients

Product recommendations
USA

/r/curlyhair’s Product Recommendation List

Includes notes for vegan/cruelty-free products.

International (non-USA)

/r/curlyhair’s International (non-USA) Product Recommendation List

We are always looking to represent more countries! See the first page in this list for
instructions on how to submit products.

If you're on a budget, /r/haircareexchange is a great place to buy products to try out or sell
products that didn't work for you! Donating to your local women's shelter is a fantastic
option for unused products as well.

Product/ingredient checker apps

Is It CG?

Copy and paste an ingredient list here to see if your product is CG approved.

Curlsbot

Copy and paste an ingredient list here to see if your product is CG approved.
This site also has a porosity quiz, product recs by porosity, and some other info.

Ingredient spotlight

54
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

This is currently a mix of ingredients & ingredient categories -- they should probably be
separated somehow.

Baking soda (avoid)

Should I put baking soda on my hair or scalp?

No. Baking soda has a pH of around 9, making it very alkaline. For reference, the pH of the
scalp is around 5.5. At first, this may not make a big difference, but over time, the pH
difference can do more and more damage. Baking soda on the hair can cause dryness,
breakage and skin irritation because of the high pH as well as the gritty texture. You're
much better off using a low sulfate shampoo.

(thanks to /u/happyhippoking for this section!)

Should I use humectants?

Humectants are very dependent on the weather. They can be great for keeping the hair
hydrated, as long as it’s not too dry or humid outside. To quickly check if the weather is
good for humectants, use the frizz forecast. If you want the details on dew points and
humectants, read this article. In some cases you'll actually want to use an anti-humectant.

Are moisturizing and hydrating products the same thing?

A lot of brands use these terms interchangeably, but they do have different meanings. This
article explains the difference. It's important to hydrate AND moisturize your hair.

Oils

Oils are capable of moisturizing, defining, shining, and sealing hair. Note that moisturizing
is not the same as hydrating; only water can hydrate the hair. Moisturization is about the
lipid barrier of skin/hair and refers to trapping water in your hair with oils as well as
delivering nutrients under the cuticle.

● Moisturizing oil refers to those oils that can penetrate the hair shaft. These would
include olive, coconut* (see coconut caveat below), shea, avocado, grapeseed, and
argan oils.

● Sealing oils refer to oils that sit directly on the hair/do not penetrate it. Hemp, flax,
and grapeseed oil are examples of this.

55
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

If you’re wondering why grapeseed/argan are on both lists, these two oils are supposedly
capable of both sealing and moisturizing hair.

Oils and porosity

Oils are best suited for high porosity hair, but that doesn’t mean normal/low porosity hair
can’t benefit from them. All hair needs at least a little oil. You just have to be careful with
how much and what type(s) you put on.

● High porosity hair can generally tolerate a little bit more oil and may need both
moisturizing and sealing oils. Generally though, sealing is the more important
process for this porosity. Since the cuticle is raised, it needs to be sealed so water
doesn’t escape the hair.

● Normal porosity hair will likely be able to get away with just using moisturizing
oils/barely sealing. You really don’t need a lot when the cuticle is more closed.

● *Low porosity hair * could get by without adding additional oils. That being said,
some people’s hair might like it. For this porosity, either extremely light application
or time-extensive application (deep conditioning with oil) might work decently.

Oil and texture

● Fine hair can be weighed down by heavy oils or a large application. The coarser the
hair is, the more it will tolerate heavy oils.

● Similarly, loose curl patterns can be weighed down by heavy oils. The tighter your
curl pattern, the more likely it is your hair may benefit from heavy oils (rather than
light).

Obviously, all of this really depends on the head of hair but those are the general rules.

A light application can be anywhere from a few drops to a couple of peas depending on the
hair so be sure to start off with a little; it’ll go a long way. You can always add more later.

How to apply oil

For pre-poo treatments or deep conditioning, oil is best applied to dry hair (as oil and water
don’t mix). For deep conditioning, you’re basically doing the same thing as with conditioner.
To really get it in there, you can also use heat to open up the hair cuticle. Just make sure to

56
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

shampoo the oil out before applying conditioner or trying to hydrate the hair. Again, oil and
water don’t mix. :-)

For my high porosity brothers and sisters, it may be beneficial to apply directly after
showering when hair is on the wet side of damp. YMMV.

/u/SilverGirlSails suggested this to get excess oil out of your hair:

Put conditioner over the oil, leave for a little while (however long you like), rinse out, then
shampoo. The conditioner first gets the oil out better than the shampoo only, sucks up
the excess or something, and you can even CO wash oil out, though it might only work
out on very dry hair.

Another neat thing to try is adding an equal amount of coconut oil* (see coconut caveat
below) to your shampoo; this helps the oil penetrate deeply, giving you the benefits from
the inside out. It should leave you with soft, shiny and non greasy hair, though you should
take a break if it does start looking more oily than usual, and just cleanse with normal
shampoo for a couple of washes.

List of oils

There is an (s) beside sealants and an (m) before moisturizers.

Light oils

● Jojoba (s) (this is actually closest to natural sebum but it is super waxy and not
penetrative)

● Grapeseed (m)(s)

● Argan (m)(s)

● Sweet Almond (m)

● Sunflower (m)

Medium oils

● Avocado (m)

Heavy oils

● Olive (m)(s)

● Flax (s)

57
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

● Hemp (s)

● Jamaican Black Castor Oil (m)(s)

● Coconut* (see coconut caveat below) (m)

Caveat with coconut oil

NOTE: Some people's hair LOVES coconut, and some HATES it. Coconut is a weird oil and
can cause some people's hair to freak out. The symptoms look really similar to protein
overload: strawlike, wiry, "dry" feeling yet can also be greasy, can feel brittle or stiff. If this
happens to you, use naturallycurly's ability to search for protein-free products and just
avoid any with coconut in them.

Sources

● Oils – Which Ones Soak In vs. Coat the Hair?

● Is that Oil a Moisturizer or a Sealer? You Should Know the Difference

● Hair Grease Taboo. Moisturizing Oils Vs. Sealing Oils

(Major thanks to /u/czvni for creating this great writeup! See the original post here

Protein

What's the deal with protein?

All hair needs some protein. If you're not sure if your hair needs protein or not, just try a
protein treatment. It's not a huge deal to go overboard on protein. Even hair that has way
too much (left) recovers completely after a day of normal conditioning. "Protein helps keep
hair hydrated (it slows water loss!), it can help reduce breakage in dehydrated hair by
increasing hydration. Hair is less likely to break when it is flexible and hair is most flexible
when it is well hydrated" (from Science-y Hair Blog).

Hair that needs protein

● Picture of over-moisturized hair (left) vs hair with a good moisture/protein balance

(right) (courtesy of a site that seems to be down now. Big thanks to

58
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

/u/vagueconfusion for finding it and sharing it with us!)

● Can feel "too soft" or mushy when wet.

● Loses curl, bounce, can become straight and weak.

● Can get tangled or knotted very easily.

● From Science-y Hair Blog: "If you have tried deep conditioning, oil treatments (with
coconut, palm, sunflower, avocado or olive oil - left on for 4-8 or 12 hours) and those
things aren't working, your hair's dryness may indicate a need for protein rather
than-or in addition to emollients."

● To fix it: Add protein! DIY treatments include rice water, or gelatin. You can also buy
a protein treatment, or just use products that have more protein (DevaCurl). The
NaturallyCurly shop has a way to search for protein-rich products.

59
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Hair that has too much protein

● Picture of hair that is protein-overloaded (left) vs hair that is protein balanced (right)

● Can feel brittle, stiff, coarse, rough, and "like straw".

● Loses curl, can become straight and coarse.

● Can get tangled or knotted very easily.

● To fix it: Add moisture and remove protein! Steer clear of products that contain
protein (the list below tells you how to recognize protein in products). The
NaturallyCurly shop has a way to search for protein-free products.

Read this for protein 101. You can also try the 'wet stretch test'.

Look for these words to spot proteins in an ingredient list: Hydrolyzed ______ protein, amino
acids, peptides. These are all proteins. Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed (protein
source - wheat, keratin, etc.) and Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed (protein
source) are proteins which have been modified to be better hair conditioners and bond to
hair better, add more softness. Yeast extract is a protein. Hydrolyzed oats, or Hydrolyzed
seeds may also contain protein.

60
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Product recs

● DIY: rice water, or gelatin (google for the recipes).

● Neutral protein filler from Sally's is really affordable. It's a liquid. You can mix it with
your conditioner or apply it directly to the hair. 1.2oz for 3$.

● SheaMoisture JBCO Mask is an affordable option that has some protein but not too
much. It's more of a weekly deep conditioner to maintain the protein in the hair.
12oz for 10$.

● DevaCurl Seaweed Repair Mask is a higher end option. It's very moisturizing despite
being a protein treatment. A little goes a long way even though it's 8oz. 8oz for
36$.Note: See this thread before purchasing DevaCurl. Possible issues causing hair loss and
scalp irritation.

● Curl Junkie Repair Me! Is my absolute favorite protein treatment. It's so moisturizing
despite being a strong protein treatment. It has a lot of slip and a 12oz bottle lasts a
really long time. 12oz for 30$.

● Hask Keratin Mask is a medium protein treatment that helps to bring back strength
and bounce to curls. It's safe to use as a weekly treatment. It's moisturizing on its
own without following up with another conditioner. 6oz for 5.99.

● Food products are not a protein treatment. Food molecules are too big to penetrate
the hair shaft (except for some exceptions such as coconut oil). You cannot apply
egg/mayonnaise/etc to your hair and expect to get any benefits.

How about keratin?

● Keratin treatments can really damage your hair, plus they contain carcinogenic
ingredients and have been banned in many countries because of this. Instead, we
recommend that you try to embrace your hair the way it is and focus on reducing
frizz without altering your curl pattern. It’s easier, quicker, and safer than
straightening techniques like keratin treatments. Keratin straightening treatments
have a bunch of other relaxer type chemicals in them and include high heat
straightening, so they’re very different from just having a little protein in a
conditioner.

● Keratin ingredients are similar to protein, and can help strengthen hair. Keratin is a
very strong protein so for some it can be too much and can loosen the curls a bit
(though not permanently). But in most conditioners it’s pretty low in the ingredients

61
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

so it’ll be fine. If the conditioner is advertised as strengthening, it should be ok (but

watch out for silicones). If it's advertised as smoothing/straightening, it might have a
higher dose of keratin.

62
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Common Concerns

Hard water
Hard water affects curls by leaving a waxy buildup. Dealing with it is a balance between
getting these minerals out and not drying your hair out in the process.

Instead of a reset shampoo (or in addition to it), use a chelating shampoo such as ION hard
water shampoo from Sally’s. This is a harsh shampoo, but it will remove the hard water
residue effectively. A deep conditioner is very useful after this.

Avoid shampoo bars with hard water (even mildly hard water). The soap in shampoo bars
binds to the minerals and contributes even more to the waxy feeling.

Frizz
My hair is frizzy. What's wrong?

● Moisture - Frizzy hair is usually dry hair. Make sure you're getting enough moisture
in. Look into the following products:
○ Deep Conditioners
○ Leave-In Conditioners
○ Hair Gel (See the section on scrunching out the crunch (SOTC) if you're
worried about it looking crispy or wet)

Kids’ curls
The curly basics still apply! Add lots of moisture, gently detangle, and do not use drying
sulfates or waterproof silicones.

● Ignore styling tips. Kids don't need to worry about plopping, or having perfectly
defined curls. Just keep their hair healthy!

● Try the beginner routine, but without the styling step.

63
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

● DO NOT BRUSH. Brushing curly hair is painful, damaging, and disrupts the curl
pattern. See the section below for tips on detangling.

● There are curly hair brands that make products specifically for kids: Shea Moisture,
Cantu, Mielle Organics, and some others. However, they are not guaranteed to be any
better or worse for kids’ hair. If you are a curly parent doing CG yourself, using your
products for the kids will be fine. Additionally, CG shampoos are much gentler and
don’t have SLS, which makes them very similar to tear free shampoos.

● Don’t worry too much about specific products! Focus on detangling & moisture.

● Curly hair can be a little wilder than straight hair: that's ok! Embrace a little frizz.

● Sleeping on a silky pillowcase can help avoid tangles in the morning.

● Protective styles like braiding are your friend!

● Start with a reset wash (to remove leftover ingredients from old products). We
recommend the shampoo from the beginner routine (VO5) because it's cheap ($1-2)
and ubiquitous. Then use a CG shampoo & conditioner.

Detangling kids’ hair

1. Soak hair in lots of conditioner. Scrunch in enough water to make it saturated (aim for
a “seaweed”/mermaid hair feeling).

– Use a conditioner that is very slippery, or use a detangling product.

2. Wait a minute or two to let the conditioner soak in.

3. Use your fingers or a wide-toothed comb. Start at the bottom and slowly work your
way towards the roots.

– The comb should glide through with no effort. If you have to pull, your
conditioner isn't slippery enough, or you haven't waited long enough for it to
soak into the hair (it should feel slimy). Hair is weakest when it’s wet. If you pull
hair while it's wet, it is likely to break and be damaged.

Example kids’ routine

This is a super simple routine using just 2 products. We’ve only suggested them as options;
any CG shampoo/conditioner will work just fine!

64
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

1. Detangle
a. Suggestions: Suave Essentials ($2-3) or Not Your Mother's Naturals Curl
Defining Cream Detangler ($9)
2. Rinse the detangling conditioner
3. Wash & Condition
a. Suggestion: Shea Moisture Kids 2-in-1 Drama-free Shampoo & Conditioner
($7)
4. Rinse the 2-in-1conditioner

Scalp conditions (dandruff, dermatitis, etc.)

1. Keep your scalp healthy: that's the foundation of healthy hair. Following the tips
below will keep your scalp healthy!
2. Know the source of your scalp condition. If you have dandruff, figuring out
WHY you have it will help you treat it.
○ For example, a dry scalp can cause flakes, so co-washing would be a great
potential remedy. However, seborrheic dermatitis (SD) can also cause
flakes, and under-washing can make the condition much, much worse due
to sebum buildup, with consequences including potential hair loss. These
are not the only causes of dandruff. If you are not sure, see a doctor or
dermatologist to clear things up!
○ Some people find when they switch away from shampoo their "dandruff"
goes away. This likely means it wasn't dandruff, but was actually an allergy
or overly dry skin from harsh cleansers. For example, avoiding silicones
solves the itching problem for many folks.
3. If you need to use a medicated shampoo, you can try "pre-poo" which is where
you soak your hair in conditioner before using a harsher cleanser on your scalp. It
helps to protect your hair while still treating your scalp.
4. There are CG medicated shampoos! Here's an incomplete list:
○ Shea Moisture’s dandruff line
○ As I Am Dry & Itchy Scalp Care cowash and shampoo
○ Vanicream free and clear dandruff shampoo
○ Jason Natural Dandruff relief
○ L'Oréal Everfresh Antidandruff shampoo
○ Science-y hair blog AMAZING list of medicated shampoos (sulfate-free
and silicone-containing products are marked)!
5. Use a scalp brush to really scrub your scalp and clear away any build-up.
6. Add extra deep-conditioning to your weekly routine to help replenish moisture
from any medicated shampoos you can't stop using.

65
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

7. Try a diluted tea-tree oil treatment to take advantage of its antibacterial,

antifungal, antiviral, anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties.
8. Don't plop for too long: the extra moisture on your scalp can make things even
worse. 10 minutes is a good ballpark. Certainly not longer than 30 minutes.
9. Consider visiting a dermatologist. They can suggest a solution, or may identify
another problem.

Swimming
Your main concerns are getting the chlorine out and fighting dryness.

DOs

• Get your hair wet before you get in the pool, so it absorbs regular water rather than
chlorinated water.

• Use a swim cap - this will help protect your hair a little bit.

• Deep condition once a week, possibly with oils like argan oil, jojoba, or your favorite
hair oil.

• Occasionally wash with a shampoo that removes pool chemicals. Malibu Swimmers
Wellness Hair Shampoo is popular with swimmers. Paul Mitchell shampoo 3 is also
used frequently. Note that these shampoos have sulfates, so it is not CG approved,
and you should use it infrequently.

DONTs

• Don't apply conditioner or oil to your hair before going in: it will mess up the pool
chemistry and cause a headache for those who maintain it, without much benefit to
you. (And it will cause your swim-cap to pop off your head).

You can also try a DIY recipe for Vitamin C (since the acid should neutralize the chlorine):

Take vitamin C powder, also called ascorbic acid, and mix about a tablespoon or so
with water in a medium-sized spray bottle. After swimming, spray the mixture all
over hair and skin, rub it around, rinse it off, then use regular products for my
shower.

To read more about the science behind what happens when your hair is exposed to
chlorine, check out this excellent post from the Science-y Hair Blog.

66
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

Transitioning from damaged hair

Possibly the most difficult part of embracing one's curls is the transition from relaxed /
chemically straightened to natural hair. Below are some steps and tips towards beautiful,
healthy hair.

Although this guide is directed towards chemically damaged hair (i.e. from relaxers), most
of the advice is also true for recovering from heavily bleached hair and heat damaged hair.

Huge thanks to /u/jollibhe for writing this guide! :)

Quit the chemicals & heat

The first big step is to stop using relaxers and any chemical straighteners altogether.
Re-straightening your hair with chemicals can very quickly undo your progress to natural
hair.

Refrain from using hot tools such as curling / flat irons, and blow dryers on high heat High
heat is generally not good for hair, especially when it has been damaged by chemical
straighteners.

Occasionally, you may find the need to apply heat to your hair, e.g., bridezilla demands you
as a bridesmaid wear your hair straight. On the assumption that your friendship with
bridezilla is more important than your hair, use heat protectants to minimize damage. Most
heat protectants have silicones. You’ll need a sulfate shampoo to wash them off. While this
is a violation of the tenets of the CG Method, it is still preferred to straightening without
heat protectants.

Quick tips

• Use protein treatments and/or deep conditioners every week or two.

– Chemical straightening dries and damages hair. Regular treatments help the
hair recover.

• Be gentle with your hair.

• Try the CG beginner routine.

• Finger comb or use a wide-tooth comb to detangle -- never a brush!

67
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

– Hair brushes and regular combs can put stress on brittle hair and cause
breakage, setting you back even further.

• Get a trim/haircut.

The big chop

"Big chop" -- The term "big chop" comes from Black women's natural hair movement. It's
the act of chopping off your chemically treated or damaged hair so you can let your hair
begin to grow naturally. Black/mixed women are often pressured into pressing, flat ironing,
hot combing and of course, getting addicted to the creamy crack aka chemical hair relaxer.
You can either wait for your hair to grow out while wearing a protective style or just chop it
all off. Hence, big chop. It's not just a hair cut. It can be really emotional and stressful
because black women are often portrayed as more masculine, ugly, etc than other women
(google "misogynoir" to learn more). A black woman embracing her natural hair is NOT just
about looking good and feeling confident. In addition to embracing self-love and body
positivity, it's a fundamentally radical act that implicitly (and often explicitly) rejects Euro-
centric beauty norms and centuries of targeted harm (the original post has a LOT of
citations for this). Sometimes, people use "big chop" thinking it's another "/r/curlyhair"
term. The wording of some posts makes it sound like it's just the cutting of a substantial
length of hair, which is different. It really goes very much beyond that. Like I (a white lady)
wouldn't say "I had my Quinceañera" just because I turned 15: a Quinceañera is a very
specific, special party with traditions and meanings that go into it above and beyond simply
reaching a certain age. To read more about the history, check out this post. Suggested
replacement term: consider the term "reset cut"!

Coping with the transition

Transitioning to natural hair involves a phase when your roots are healthy and curly while
the ends are straight.

For folks who can’t do a reset haircut or a big chop, heatless styling methods can give your
roots and ends a similar curl pattern, and protective hairstyles can help keep your hair
manageable while waiting for it to grow out.

Some examples of heatless styling methods and protective hairstyles:

• braid outs

68
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

• twist outs

• bantu knots

• curling using flexi rods

Curly Nikki is a great resource for transitioning and styling.

Time is your best friend

Be patient. Hair takes time to grow. But it does grow :)

Wearing hair up for work

If you have to wear your hair up for work (e.g. food service, lab work, military, etc.), try
these tips:

● Consider a protective style like braids

● If possible, switch your method for putting your hair up daily, to avoid breakage in
consistent places (e.g. braids vs pony, two braids instead of one, height of your
bun/pony)
● Keep your hair strong with protein & moisture treatments & masks
● Try to wear your hair in looser styles or completely down when not at work

Working out
If you go to the gym regularly, or exercise, these tips may help you! Ultimately you'll need to
do a LOT of trial and error to figure out what works for you.

• You can wash daily with CG-approved products. They will not dry your hair out!
Cowash in particular is totally fine to do daily.

• You can just rinse with water and scrub your scalp.

• Try adding extra conditioner to your ends or any areas prone to dryness.

• Curl creams instead of gel may work for some because they provide more moisture.

• Braid your hair, use headbands, or put your hair up in a pineapple, bun, or wrap and
just leave it up during your workout.

69
reddit.com/r/curlyhair

• Use dry shampoo. There are very few CG dry shampoos (see here for some options).
Even so, the main "bad" ingredient is alcohol, some of which evaporates in the air
when you spray it, and may still be less drying than a typical sulfate wash.

70