by Wendosen Seife

Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology

Bahir Dar University
Bahir Dar, Ethiopia
February, 2020
 Outline
What is CAD in Available CAD
p a 01
ttern making software in 04
fashion industry

Activities of CAD Automatic pattern

s y 02
stem 05
generating system
(APGS)

Role of CAD to Components of

d e03
signer in APGS 06
fashion and
apparel industry
 Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title
▪ Computer Aided Design-CAD is defined the use of information
technology (IT) in the Design process. Wendosen Seife
▪ CAD in pattern making is defined as the Sub
usetitleof computer
technology or IT in pattern design, digitizing , Grading , marker
Wendosen Seife
making and plotting.
Sub title
▪ Constituents of CAD- CAD system consists of
Wendosen Seife
o CPU: brains of the computer
Sub title
o It stores data, intermediate result and instructions (program).
 Wendosen Seife
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▪ CPU controls the operations of all parts of computer.
o Workstation
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o IT hardware (H/W),
Sub title
o S/W- which makes use of graphics for product representation;
o Databases- for storing the product model Wendosen Seife
o Drives- the peripherals for product presentationSub title

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Sub title
Basic activities of CADWendosen
systemSeife
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Inputti
ng
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Output Sub title

Storing
ting
CAD activity Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Display Process Wendosen Seife

ing ing Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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▪ Input devices are used to make selections from a menu ( a layout
of commands and functions required to operate the system).
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▪ The commands produces complete engineeringSub
drawings.
title
▪ e.g. A flat surface of a digitizing tablets connected to computer
Wendosen Seife
or computer screen. Sub title

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Sub title
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▪ Computer stores information, symbols e.t.c. inSub title
▪ Primary storage
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o Main storage connected directly to the CPU
Sub title
▪ Secondary storage
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o Auxiliary memory stored externally on magnetic disksSeife
and loaded to
the main memory when required. Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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▪ Processing is the most important activity of a computer system.
▪ Processing is the transformation of data in to information.
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▪ Data is a raw material to be processed by
Subcomputers
title such
materials can be flat pattern components, letters, measurements,
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grading points and etc.
Sub title

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Sub title
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▪ Used for visual display of information Sub title

▪ Types of Display
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▪ Storage tube- Has Phosphor surface on the inside of the tube bombarded by
Sub title
electrons to produce drawing image which has low color capability.
▪ Raster scan tube- Uses a grid of dots(pixels) to display an image
Wendosen Seife similar to
television screen which has good quality of color and resolution.
Sub title
▪ Refresh tube- Uses an electron beam to draw connecting lines or curves from
Wendosen Seife
initially located point.
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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▪ Output devices receive data from the computer and provide
an output, hard copy. Wendosen Seife
▪ Printers: Non-impact printers, ink jet/desk jet printers,
Sublacer
title printers and
electrostatic printers.
Wendosen Seife
▪ Plotters: Flat bed have a flat area where pattern paper is placed and pens
Sub title
and inks are free to move in any direction.
▪ Drum plotters- have a rotating drum where paper only Seife
Wendosen move in two
directions and pens only move across the drum. Sub title
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1 - First Pattern Input

2 - Grading Wendosen Seife

Sub title
3 - Pattern preparation for production

4 - Pattern Control Wendosen Seife

Sub title
5 - Marker Making
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6 - Marker Plotting
Sub title
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▪ Designer is the main actor in the process, in all phases from problem
identification to the implementation phase.
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▪ The role of the CAD is in aiding Designer by providing:
Sub title
o Accurately generated and easily modifiable graphical
representation of the product. Wendosen Seife
o The user can nearly view the actual product on
Subscreen,
title make any
modifications to it, and present his/her ideas on screen without any
Wendosen Seife
prototype, especially during the early stages of the design process.
Sub title
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o Perform complex design analysis in short time.
o Implementing Finite Elements- e.g. Motion analysis,
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Tolerance analysis, Design optimization e.t.c.
Sub title
o Record and recall information with consistency and speed-
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e.g. Product Data Management (PDM) systems can store
Sub title
the whole design and processing history of a certain
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product, for future reuse and upgrade.
Sub title
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▪ Division of computers
o Mainframe
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o Workstations
Sub title
o Business PC
o Home PC Wendosen Seife
Subcomputers
▪ CAD clothing systems were first mini mainframe title to
execute CAD drawings. Wendosen Seife
Sub title
▪ Today, Clothing CAD programs exist on the business PC.
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▪ Different types of software run on same computer
Sub title but screen

produce images in different ways

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▪ Pixel lines and images- registered by pixels(dots) on computer
Sub title
screen.
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▪ Unless screen resolution very high, or images in other forms,
Sub title
jagged edges are seen on the line formation and edges for
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knitted or woven textile designs and some printed textile
Sub title
designs.
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▪ Vector lines and images- these are registered by small lines
between points and may appear smooth if the distance is small
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enough. Sub title
▪ The lines are used for many design procedures because they allow
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accurate measurement and manipulation of mathematical data.
Sub title
▪ Postscript line and images- Are smooth vector lines produced on
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postscript prints for graphic design and printed fabric motives.
Sub title
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▪ Pattern provides Seifeidea of right style & accurate
the clear measurements of
Sub title
garments.
▪ A correct pattern helps to make an appropriate sample.
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▪ It will eliminate fabric wastage. Sub title
▪ Pattern contains clear information of construction, sewing allowance, grain
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line & fabric cutting direction.
Sub title
▪ It helps to get more order from buyers.
▪ Pattern suggests the factory to estimate theWendosen
resourcesSeife
required for
construction of a particular style. Sub title
 Connectivity and integration of computer applications
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clothing and textiles
Wendosen Seife Sub title
Software Integrated programs Pattern Design and
Graphics and textiles Integration of all forms of Construction
Form of line communications between Form of line
Pixels, vectors, postscript programs e.g. Wendosen Seife
Pixels, vectors, postscript use….
use…. Conversation of file Pattern cutting, Grading ,
Graphic design software's formats, product data Sub making
marker title
Screen image marketing managements

Inputs Wendosen Seife

Direct file formation
Mouse, digitizer, camera, Sub title
scanner

Output Wendosen Seife

Printers (Information)
Printers (dot matrix, electronic, Plotters (garment patterns
laser, thermal, ink jet) Dependent on type Sub title
Multipurpose printer and
Slides, videos, plotters/printers of software used plotters
 Wendosen Seife
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▪ Idea generation
▪ Textile/clothing design Wendosen Seife
▪ Pattern cutting Sub title
▪ Pattern Grading
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▪ Marker Making
Sub title
▪ Data management
▪ Technology development followed this pattern and there wasSeife
Wendosen development of
discrete programs with different input and out put and
Subalso
titleCAM (Computer
Aided Manufacture).
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1. Paint (Raster based systems)-have been used Sub titledevelopment but
in style
produces jagged outlines and low resolution pixilated images.
▪ However there has been improvement in and quality Wendosen
thus CADSeife
programs used
in mimicking textures, weaves, knitting, laces, logos andSub title
embroidery.
▪ More connectivity of programs-in transfer of image data files. E.g. a line image
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of a garment can be drawn or digitized directly on the digitizing pad/camera,
Sub title
or scanned and modified with styling and colors
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Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Subcan
titlebe re-colored or
2. Drape software programs- Photographs or drawings
rendered with fabrics to give realistic images of garments. E.g. in repetition
Wendosen Seife
of style in various fabrics.
Sub title
3. Graphic instinct- Involves drawing in electronic digitizing (drawing) pad with
cordless touch sensitive pens. E.g. the Lectra’s Graphic instinct
Wendosen which allows
Seife
the designer to draw directly on the screen with a pen.Sub title

▪ The tools are similar to those in conventional paint systems

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Sub title
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 Few companies are with CAD/CAM in pattern cutting on computers but
many do pattern modifications on computers. This is because;
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1. Until recently it was expensive to invest in pattern cutting other than in pattern grading and
Sub title
marker making software's.

2. In-house designers don’t want to change from manual methods

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3. Problems of getting high quality pattern grading and marker making technologies
Sub title
 However, today 90% of flat pattern making can be done on computers.
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 As in manual method, blocks can be stored and then used as templates for complex

adaptations. Sub title

 Wendosen Seife
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 Drawing straight Seife free sketching.
lines, curves, Sub title
 Deleting lines or sections, extending lines
 Changing lines freely, or to specific lengths.
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 Measuring lines or sections.
 Changing whole pattern shapes or sections Sub title
 Cutting pattern into sections.
 Reproducing whole pattern shapes or sections Wendosen Seife
 Moving patterns whole parts or sections freely around Sub title
 Rotating /mirroring and joining sections or pieces
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 Swinging pattern sections and Inserting flare into patterns
Sub title
 Completing patterns: adding seam allowances, grain lines, notches, drill lines
e.t.c.
 Wendosen Seife
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 Pattern grading- a technique used to produce pattern Sub titlesizes.
in other

 Done after sample design is accepted and the customer either placed an
Wendosen Seife
order in a range of sizes or wishes to see the design made in other sizes before
Sub title
placing an order.
Wendosen
 Pattern grading systems are faster, consistent, and Seife
accurate than manual
grading. Sub title

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Sub title
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 Large CAD/CAM clothing systems provides large storage for graded pattern

shapes which can be retrieved to create MODELS for production lay plans.
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More than one lay plan is required for each style. Sub title
 MODEL: is the grouping of pattern pieces to be cut in a particular fabric.
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Model also records if a pattern piece is single, mirrored or paired.
Sub title
 The design profile sheet or garment profile production data gives marker
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maker all information required to create the lay plan and a MODEL for a
Sub title
particular lay is entered in to the system.
 Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title modification and
 Product Data Management software is the organization, evaluation,
distribution of information throughout the company by means of electronic filing systems.
Wendosen
 Links manufactures, retailers and suppliers E.g. MDI (Multiple Seifeallows user to
Data Interface)
work concurrently on a number of ‘screens’ or pages on the computer screen.
Sub title
 The main users are sales managers, product development managers and production
personnel. Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 The system create style files with information on style image design room, materials and
component sourcing, pattern cutting, making up and costing
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 This information helps in easy monitoring of production, and improving costing.
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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 Grafis CAD  My Virtual ModelSub title
 Assyst-Bullmer  PAD System™ Technologies
 Autometrix  Polygon Software and Tech.
 Browzwear Wendosen Seife
 Polytropon Automation Systems
 Cochenille Design Studio  Richpeace Technology
Sub Ltd.
title
 Cyberware  Scanvec Garment Systems (Optitex)
 Gerber Technology  Virtue3D
 Imaginarix
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 Tukatech Inc
 Investronica SubInc.
 Wild Ginger Software title
 Ioline Corp.  3D VISUAL
 Lectra Systems  BODY SCAN Wendosen Seife
 ModaCAD  OPTITEX
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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Sub title

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Sub title

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Sub titlePattern Generation
Figure: 3D Automatic
 Wendosen Seife
 Automatic Pattern Generation System (APGS) is a software of TPC (Traditional Pattern
Wendosen Seife Sub title
Construction) Garment Technology, Hong Kong.

 APGS involves integration of the 2D pattern shape editor along with the 3D garment shape
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view to assess the effect of the change of any pattern shape or posture and measurement
change on the mannequin. Sub title

 APGS software provides a complete 3D integrated solution, inclusive of garment fit and size
Wendosen Seife
grading.
Sub title
 Users can develop silhouettes and styles in the 3D environment according to their preference.
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 The software also generates a set of 2D patterns, which can be exported in real time from the

3D garment structure. Sub title

 Wendosen Seife
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CAD Sub title

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Sub title
Parametric Parametric
Parametric
Human Wendosen Pattern
Seife
Pattern
Generator (PHG) Accelerator (PPA)
Generator (PPG) Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Wendosen
 Human body Seife
scan data acquisition to customize 3D virtualSub
mannequin.
title
 Avatar with pre-defined parametric body features creation from point cloud, redline
structure, and mesh. Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

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Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
 Wendosen
The Parametric Pattern Seife
Generator (PPG) software suppliesSub
a complete
title 3D integrated

solution for garment fit & size grading.

 The software generates a set of 2D patterns, which canWendosen

be exportedSeife
in real time to the

3D garment structure. Sub title

 With pre-defined parametrical features to do the matching of avatar and garment
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structure, PPG transform the volume and silhouette of garment structure in 3D space
Sub title
and build related pattern simultaneously

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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Sub title

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Sub title

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Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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• The Parametric SeifeAccelerator (PPA) employsSub
Pattern thetitle
construction of a
garment & generating patterns, thereby, simplifying pre-production tasks.
Wendosen
• With pattern file imported from PPG to generate Seife garment
all the required
components such as trimmings and seam allowancesSub title
• The system provides consistency, speed and is easy to employ
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Sub title

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Sub title
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Sub title

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Sub title

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Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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 Fashion product Seife are getting shorter than
lifecycles Subconsumers
title demand
variations in the styles and silhouette of the garment.
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 Product order lead time to the segmented market has become
Sub title
extremely critical; this means faster manufacturing system designs and
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faster ramp up processes.
Sub title
 Product simulation and simulated manufacturing tools are valuable in
Wendosen Seife
shortening the design steps.
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Wendosen system
 Virtual production Seife also speeds the ramp up because the
Sub title

operator knows better the planned system and can study the
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parameters and features of the new system before anything is installed
Sub title
up to the factory floor.
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 The utilization of the simulated fashion permits the user to experience
Sub title
and interacts with life-like models at precise times while providing a
Wendosen
degree of control over the simulation that is usually not Seife
possible in real
Sub title
life most of the time.
 Wendosen Seife
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 In the earlier Seife garment and fashion
traditional Subdesign
title approaches,

garment are usually considered as the manual collection of patterned

Wendosen Seife
surfaces, tailored in fabric materials along with the information of
Sub title
assembling the patterns for the final garment.
Wendosen Seife
 The simulated garment designing system has developed as a complete
Sub title
transition over the traditional approach by providing an interactive
Wendosen
framework for accurately designing the patterns Seife
with the information
Sub title
necessary for their correct seaming and assembly.
 Wendosen Seife
 The variousWendosen Seife in the automatic patternSub
aspects involved simulation
title realism for
the designing and development of garment are:
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o Conceptualization of garments
Sub title
o Patternisation of virtual human forms

o Simulated garment assembly Wendosen Seife

Sub title
o Animation of computerized garment and

o Texturization of the apparels Wendosen Seife

Sub title
o Virtual garment alteration
 Wendosen Seife
▪ In real life, Wendosen
the patterns for the garment are based on the three dimensional
Seife Sub title
measurements.

▪ The availability of polygon editor has led to theWendosen Seife with the
garment seaming
Sub title
utilization of sets of 2D polygons linked together by suitable seaming lines.

Wendosen
▪ The garment patterning is done on a grid defined in a window.Seife
The operations

include inserting, moving or deleting polygon verticesSub titlecurrent pattern

on the

polygon. Wendosen Seife

Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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▪ The required patterns Seife
can be selected in a separate window
Sub titledisplaying all the

patterns of the garment.

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▪ The irregular triangular meshes are used for the creation of the single garment
Sub title
surface that can be easily handled and edited as well.
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▪ The developed patterns can be easily saved in to simplified file formats, which
Sub title
provide easy accessibility for the modification or the construction of three

dimensional garment. Wendosen Seife

Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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▪ The planar patterns are placed around a 3D virtual body using

Wendosen
manipulators, which forms the initial stage of rough Seifeof patterns
positioning
Sub title
around the body with the aid of mouse interaction or other 3D manipulating

devices.
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▪ The patterns are placed onto the body surface with the guidelines
Sub title provided

by the shape of the human body itself. Wendosen Seife

Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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▪ The placement of the patterns around the virtual human body is followed by

a mechanical simulation, which forces the patterns to approach each other

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along the seam lines. Sub title
▪ The use of seam elastics facilitates the pulling and matching the pattern
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borders together.
Sub title

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Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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▪ Animation of a garment pertains to its movement along with the body of a

virtual human form or mannequin.

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▪ This is carried out with the help of collision responseSub
andtitle
friction with the

body surface.
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▪ The mechanical simulation gives the animation of the garment on different
Sub title
types of virtual bodies differing in sizes, shapes, body postures, facial
Wendosen Seife
features and other minute details.
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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▪ The various attributes of the fabric like colour, lustre and texture are used to

define the material properties with the rendering techniques.

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▪ Garment materials and textures are handled independently, where materials
Sub title
pertain to the ambient and specular colours of the textile surface and the
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textures refer to the image mappings on the surface.
Sub title

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Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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▪ The added aspect of simulated fashion reality is the cutting of the fabric and

it’s re-stitching to make it fit or adapt to the body shape after removing or
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adding the material. Sub title
▪ The cutting lines may be seamed together to recreate a continuous surface
Wendosen Seife
of different shape.
Sub title
▪ Unwanted material can be removed from the fabric using cutting.
Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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▪ Software developed through 3D garment concept with scientific approach

▪ Flexible application pipeline, simple to use and easy to adopt

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▪ Build-in avatar fit function with real-time visualization Sub title

▪ 3D grading system compilation to generate grade rules automatically

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▪ Easy to detect problem and avoid predictable human errors
Sub title

▪ Allows immediate result without making physical sample

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Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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▪ Provides 3D garment size standardization and quality consistency

▪ Electronic pattern file transfer and exchange efficiently between clients and
Wendosen Seife
their outsourcing suppliers in all regions - pattern file
Subconversion
title to DXF,

AAMA, Gerber & Lectra or CAD system,

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▪ Offers as an excellent communication tool - Industrial pattern e-files
Sub title
transfer to production unit
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▪ A profitable gain in speed and accuracy
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
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Thank You
Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 by Wendosen Seife
Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology
Bahir Dar University
Bahir Dar, Ethiopia
January, 2020
 Introduction Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title
 The philosophy underlying this direction of development is that there

has been a shift in emphasis in the clothing industry and the

Wendosen Seife
production of garment patterns is now a key factor in the total
Sub title
response time of the clothing manufacturer.
Wendosen Seife
 Thus the importance of having an integrated system for producing
Sub title
pattern quickly and accurately has become essential for fashion
producers who have to maintain and Wendosenimprove
continually Seife their
competitive edge. Sub title
 Introduction Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title
 To develop total pattern system which have four integrated function :

1. Master Pattern System(MPS) : to create block pattern.

Wendosen Seife
2. Pattern Design System (PDS) : for the construction and development of
Sub title
styled patterns
3. Wendosen
Pattern Generation System (PGS): to automatically Seife patterns
generate
for secondary materials. Sub title

4. Dynamic Pattern Grading (DPG): to automate, as far as Seife

Wendosen possible, all of
the process concerned with the grading of garmentSub
patterns.
title
 Wendosen Seife
Master Pattern System
Wendosen Seife Sub title
 A development of the European producers of CAD system

 To produce block patterns according to givenWendosen

measurements
Seife and ease
allowance Sub title

 A typical module has three modules, men, women and children

Wendosen Seife
 The block patterns can be constructed according toSub
thetitle
user system or
via a system developed by the manufacturer ofWendosen
the CAD unit.
Seife
Sub title
 Master Pattern System Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub titleto effect any
 In each case ,the user can interact with the system

changes or modifications which might be required.

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 It is also possible to change ease allowance according to styling or
Sub title
fabric.
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 The major developments of master pattern system have been for
Sub title
men's wear, but those for women and children are on the way to
development . Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Pattern Design System
Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife
 The development of PDS can be divided into two Sub title
phase:
1. Pattern construction on the screen which is, in effect, flat pattern
Wendosen Seife
cutting at a reduced scale.
Sub title
 To automate many of the repetitive manual operations associated

with pattern making. Wendosen Seife

Sub title
 The system became more user friendly with pop-up menus and

windows. Wendosen Seife

Sub title
 The system became more sophisticate and more easier to use.
 Pattern Design System
Wendosen Seife
 There were two major
Wendosen problems with the systemsSub
Seife on title
the market :
 The pattern cutter was working at a reduced scale, which is not
conducive to visually judging proportions. Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 The working methods were computerized , which necessitated the
learning of each operation from scratch
Wendosen Seife
2. An American company, Gerber Garment Technology, introduced an
Sub title
interactive pattern development system which enabled the pattern
Wendosen Seife
cutter to work at full scale using their own familiar tool and
Sub title
techniques.
 Pattern Design System
Wendosen Seife
Wendosen
 The pattern Seife draw style lines on a block
cutter could pattern and then
Sub title
verify and enhance them via the screen or by redrawing.
Wendosen Seife
 So, far only 2D PDS has been examined ,but recently A new
Sub title
technology has emerged which enables the pattern cutter to actually
model a design in 3D via the system. basicallyWendosen
the system produces a
Seife
3D wire-frame image of the workroom stand, the pattern
Sub titlecutter, using
a computer generated fabric , can model the garment on to the body
Wendosen Seife
image. Sub title
 Pattern Generating System Wendosen
(PGS) Seife
 This system was developed in 1985 and the objective was to automate
Wendosen Seife Sub title
the generation of patterns for linings and fusible directly from the top
cloth patterns . Wendosen Seife
 Preparing patterns for secondary materials involves many repetitious
Sub title
operations, which with very small variations are the same for every
Wendosen Seife
garment, irrespective of styling.
Sub title
 Constructing a pattern for a front fusible would involve the same
Wendosen Seife
operations for every front, i.e. copying the front cloth pattern and then
Sub title
modifying it to suit the manufacturing technology used by the factory .
 Dynamic Pattern SystemWendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sublittle
 It is a very recent development and although very title information is

available regarding the system itself, its developers forecast that it will
Wendosen Seife
be generally available in about one year from the time of writing.
Sub title
 The operative principle of the system is based on the explicit grading

relationship between a block pattern and the Wendosen Seifedeveloped

styled pattern
from it. Sub title

 The grade for the styled pattern is directly derived

Wendosenfrom that of the
Seife
block pattern. Sub title
 Apparel Pattern Design Systems (PDS)
Wendosen Seife
▪ Pattern Design
Wendosen Seife offers intuitive and powerful
System/Software Subsoftware
title tools designed
to work with patterns at every step of your production cycle.
▪ Activities of PDS
Wendosen
1. Drafting pattern pieces from scratch with drafting and Seife
editing tools,
2. digitize existing hard-copy patterns with digitizing tools, Sub title
3. Editing and finalizing existing digital patterns, all within the same interface.
Wendosen
▪ Includes the entire range of pattern making tools one would use for Seife
manually drafting
patterns on the table yet presents them to the user in very accessible
Sub title and easy to use
toolboxes.
▪ Four basic elements when producing drawings using a PDS
Wendosen Seife
1. Points 3. Archs Sub title
2. Straight lines 4. Curves
 Constituents of PDSWendosen Seife
▪ Movable toolbars
Wendosen Seife Sub title
▪ Dialog boxes allow each design engineer to create their own working environment.

▪ Icons and tools are organized by functionality: Tools related to drafting, editing, and
Wendosen Seife
measuring your patterns are all grouped together to provide quick access to the tools
Sub title
you use most.

▪ Hotkeys allow you to quickly access your most heavily-used

Wendosen Seifewithout ever
functions
needing to access a menu. Sub title
▪ Darts, seam allowance, special corners, advanced measurement techniques, pleats,
Wendosen Seife
complicated curves, dimension modifications, and facings, have been specially
Sub title
developed to meet the needs of our customers across a wide range of product types.
 Richpiece PDS Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife
• Types of PDS Sub title

1. Auto design
Wendosen Seife
2. Pattern made by hand import
Sub title
3. Free design
Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
1. Auto design- There are many pattern libraryWendosen
in software, thus easy for
Seife
modifyingWendosen
part sizeSeife
and order size, Grading automatically,
Sub title Offer of
accurate data for calculating material, Also can establish Pattern library by
yourself Wendosen Seife
Sub title
2. Pattern made by hand import- You can input pattern to computer by
Wendosen
camera or digitizer or digitizer mouse can input one size,Seife
Also can Input
more size. Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
Pattern Digitizing
 3. Free design Wendosen Seife
▪ Intelligent Wendosen
pen- WhenSeife
make design line, Can input data size directly Improve
Sub title
efficiency; set size, Match divided point on line;
▪ Mouse wheel and space- Zoom out or zoom in or move pattern;
▪ Wendosen
Line modification- Curve line and straight line connect smoothlySeife
▪ Move and rotate adjust- Can combine more group design line and pattern
Sub title
line then adjust;
▪ Measure- Can refresh measured data automatically; Wendosen Seife
▪ Transfer dart-Can transfer dart in one circle, in different circle, Transfer
equally one dart to more dart, Also can transfer whole Sub title
in proportion, can
keep or move the dart tip, Insert dart in appointed place.
Wendosen Seife
▪ Add pleat- knife pleat, Box pleat, Front or back pleat, Also can add whole
pleat and half pleat, Can add straight line pleat and Sub title
curve line pleat, Insert
pleat in appointed place e.t.c.
Free design conti… Wendosen Seife
▪ Flouncing-Wendosen
Can make Seife
start and end equal width flouncing,
Sub title Also can make
start and end non equal width flouncing;
▪ Forfex pattern - It offer colour filled pattern, Select line to create pattern,
Make square to form pattern and hollow pattern Wendosen
function, Seife
And can create
seam allowance automatically; Sub title
▪ Seam- Seam and pattern border is associated, Seam will refresh
automatically after adjusting border, set and modifies together equal seam
Wendosen Seife
or same corner place can set or modify together, Special Seam allowance
also associated; Sub title
▪ Notch-fix and modify notches, Can add equal distance notch on one or more
lines, more kind of notch type, Can match notchWendosen Seife on sleeve
simultaneously
and front and back; Sub title
▪ Create interlining- Create interlining on pattern automatically;
 Free design conti… Wendosen Seife
Wendosen
▪ Pic lib- Software Seife
offer hundreds Submodify
of sewing sign, also can title size, Move and
rotate the available part;
▪ Sew line/Quilted line- offer more kinds of straight line and curved line, You can
Wendosen Seife
group freely, Quilted line can select between single and cross line, Angles can
set freely; Sub title
▪ Shrink /Part shrink- Can shrink all the material same pattern, Also can shrink
pattern parts; Wendosen Seife
▪ Safe restore- System auto save each file, System will Help u find unsaved data;
Sub title
▪ Encrypt file- System can encrypt file, File can not be copied and stolen;
▪ ASTM/TIIP- Can import ASTM、TIIP file and outputWendosen
ASTM, Share with our CAD;
Seife
▪ Custom toolbar- Tool can group freely on interface, can be set freely by right
Sub title
click button;
 Wendosen Seife
OtherWendosen
Tasks Seife
of Richpiece PDS
Sub title
▪ Grading
▪ Pattern modify Wendosen Seife
▪ Pattern nesting Sub title
▪ Plotting
Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Grading Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife
▪ Auto confirm “+” or “-” When use point grading, Sub title
System can recognize
grading value“+” or “-”automatically;
▪ Grading together of part which grading value is same- Can
Wendosen square and
Seife
grade more points together;
Sub title
▪ Equal grading between pattern border and assistant line- Assistant line
can grade together with border, also can grade separately;
Wendosen Seife
▪ Fixed measurement grade- Can grade according to curve or straight line
length ; Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Grading
Wendosen Seife
conti…
Wendosen Seife
Sub title
▪ Size group- Can grade in one group ,Also can grade in different group;
▪ Text grading- Different size can have same text and also can have different
size, text can be placed on grade tool; Wendosen Seife
▪ Button hole/Drill- Can add equal drill or button hole
Sub, Also
title can add same
distance drill/button hole. When grading different size button holes or
drill, quantity can be the same or different; Wendosen Seife
▪ Grading value copying- Can copy one and paste one, Also can copy one
Sub title
and paste more.
Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Pattern
Wendosen Seife
modify
Wendosen Seife
Sub title
▪ Shadow- When modify pattern, shadow appears, You can compare before and after
modifying pattern and Can go back original shape;
▪ Move all or only move line – when adjusting moreWendosen parts in same
Seifeway, Can be
adjusted together;
▪ Adjust Sizes- when adjusting other sizes except basic size,Sub titleadjusting pattern,
When
can adjust one single size or all the sizes, also can adjust in proportions;
▪ Show line length-Can show line length automatically; Wendosen Seife
▪ Adjust pleat and dart merged dart- On basic size or graded dart and pleat, it can
Sub title
combine dart and pleat and make it smooth;
▪ Compare pattern work- can compare one pattern work with another pattern, also
Wendosen Seife
combine and adjust line smoothly.
Sub title
 Nesting Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife
❑ Positioning of 2-D shapes/pattern on a sheet so as Subtotitle
achieve maximum
usage of a material or equivalently to minimize wastage.
▪ Super nest- Efficiency is higher than manual nest and takes short time,
Wendosen Seife
separates color 、also has binding and fixing pattern function;
▪ Calculate(Estimate) material- Can calculate each Sub title
marker material
consumption (Include length and weight) automatically (or manually) thus
cut down factory cost; Wendosen Seife
▪ System can separate material automatically according to different type of
Sub title
material;
▪ Easy operate when make marker by hand- CanWendosen finish flip,Seife
Overlap, slide
patterns with mouse or shortcut button;
Sub title
 Nesting conti… Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title
▪ Check overlap- Can check overlap between pattern;
▪ Double marker- Can make marker on main or aided marker;
▪ Reference marker- Can make marker in referenceWendosen Seife
to an earlier finished
marker; Sub title
▪ Duplicate/Reverse marker- Can duplicate or Reverse marker on a partly
finished marker
Wendosen Seife
▪ Associate marker with patterns- After make marker, Marker can change
automatically when pattern change; Sub title
▪ Group nest- can group nest and cut as a group
Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Plot Wendosen Seife
▪ Wendosen
Output Mode- Can plotSeife
whole marker cutting or Half Sub
cutting;
title
▪ Plot line type- Shows inside border, outside border and assistant line type
can be set separately;
▪ Plot selected page- Plot appointed marker; Wendosen Seife
▪ Marker title- Can plot detailed instruction at end or atSub
starttitle
of marker;
▪ Check plotting- If there are missed pattern or same side pattern or different
material pattern, System can check automatically. Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Pattern Plotter
 Comparison of Manual and CAD Systems
Wendosen Seife
No AspectsWendosen Seife
of comparison Manual Computerized
Sub title

1 Flexibility in design Low High

Wendosen Seife
2 Percentage wastage in fabric High
cutting Sub title
3 Quality of cutting room
Wendosen Seife
4 Sample making time Sub title

5 Productivity Wendosen Seife

6 Lead time for production Sub title

 Comparison of Manual andWendosen
CAD Seife
Systems
Wendosen Seife Sub title
▪ Greater flexibility in pattern designing, grading and marking,
reduction in waste %, increase in qualityWendosen
of cutting
Seiferoom and

reduction in sample making time are some Sub

of title
the benefits of
application of CAD/CAM system in garmentWendosen
manufacturing.
Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
(A) The traditional generalized design process, and (B) IT applications in the design process
Aspects of comparison Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title
▪ Time required in pattern designing, grading, pattern
alteration.
Wendosen Seife
▪ Waste percentage in cutting room.
Sub title
▪ Quality of cutting.
▪ Time taken for sample making. Wendosen Seife
▪ Productivity. Sub title

▪ Lead time for production. Wendosen Seife

Sub title
Time required in pattern designing, grading,
Wendosen Seife
pattern alterationSub title
Wendosen Seife
• Observations of particular time required for each operation
observed Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
Time taken for CAD/CAM System Time taken for manual system
 Time reduction in CAD for pattern designing,
Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife
grading and marking: Sub title

• As mentioned in the experimental procedure, the CAD/CAM system takes

36.81 minutes, whereas MANUAL system takes 350Wendosen
minutes. Seife
• By this, one can say that the MANUAL system takes nearly
Sub title
10 times of the
time taken by the CAD/CAM system.
• MANUAL system takes comparatively much more time because
Wendosen Seife of: New
Pattern Creation, Measurement of Marking, Pattern Grading, Marker
Sub title
Planning, Sketching, etc.
• These activities are done only by an individualWendosen
and so the Seifetime taken
depends on the skill of the person
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Conti….Wendosen Seife Sub title
• CAD tools to draft pattern, gives unlimited saving in time compared to the
manual method. Wendosen Seife
• A previously constructed pattern in the system can be used as the base
Sub title
pattern for a new style.
• Reduction in pattern designing, grading, and pattern alteration time by
around 90%. Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Waste
Wendosenpercentage
Seife in cutting operation
Sub title
▪ In order to determine waste percentage in both manual and CAD/CAM
system, following observations were made.
▪ The fabric consumption for 500 shirts was determined Wendosen Seife
by taking the
dimension of centre size, i.e., ‘L’ the area of front, backSub
andtitle
sleeve part of
shirt is taken for 'L' size shirt.
▪ The fabric required is 2.15 meters without tolerance. With tolerance, the
Wendosen Seife
fabric required is 2.4 meters.
Sub title
Total no of shirts observed = 500
Fabric required for 500 shirts = 500 X 2.42 Wendosen Seife
= 1209.06 mts
Sub title
= 1210 mts
 Waste percentage in cutting operation
Wendosen Seife
▪ No of shirts Wendosen Seife1210 meters with (90% fabric
made out from Subrealization)
title in
CAD/CAM system:
= (1210 X 90) 1100
= 1089 mts. Wendosen Seife
= 1089/2.42
Sub title
No of shirts = 450

No of shirts made out from 1210 meters with (80% Wendosen Seife in
fabric realization)
MANUAL system: Sub title
= (1210 X 80) /100
= 968 mts
Wendosen Seife
= 968/2.42
No of shirts - 403 Sub title
This exhibits a fabric saving of 10% by CAD/CAM system over MANUAL
 Waste percentage in cutting operation
Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Subprocedure
title
❑ With the use of CAD/CAM system through experimental it can be
observed that about 10% of material is saved, as compared to the manual
method. This is achieved due to the following reason:
Wendosen Seife
1. Do not cut until a trial layout shows the best location for all pieces
within minimum length of cloth. Sub title
2. Place all pattern pieces close together, so as to reduce the waste % of
the cloth. Wendosen Seife
3. Spreading waste is considerably reduced dueSubtotitle correct length
spreading, remnants are also reduced by SPREAD machine. Since the
CAD/CAM system has mathematical algorithms in-built in
Wendosen CAD System,
Seife
this ensures the most economical use of material.
Sub title
❑Quality of cutting Wendosen Seife
Wendosen the
▪ In order to determine Seife
quality of cutting, 10 rolls Sub
fromtitle
100 rolls of cloth
were received both in cutting and sewing department. It was observed every
day.
▪ Amount of rejected garment was collected taking Wendosen Seife
into consideration the
following quality particulars: Sub title
▪ Fabric defects.
▪ All components cut on the correct grain lines and in accordance
Wendosen Seife with the
pile direction of the fabric.
Sub title
▪ Dimensionally accurate garment that do not exceed specified tolerance.
▪ All materials spread at correct tension to prevent under-Seife
Wendosen or over-sized
component and/or garment.
▪ Consistent and accurate marking. Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

CAD/CAM System Wendosen

Manual system Seife

Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Quality of cutting:
Wendosen Seife Sub title
• As mentioned in the experimental procedure, the CAD/CAM system has 0.38%
of the waste reduction whereas MANUAL System has l.03%.
• Increasing quality of cutting room by around 50%. Wendosen Seife
• This shows that quality is very good in CAD/CAM because,
Sub title
o The spreading of fabric is done by the spreading machine, where the
'Photo Electric Guides' are used to maintain uniform tension in the fabric,
so that creases in the fabric is avoided duringWendosen
spreading,Seife
whereas in the
MANUAL system it is unavoidable. Sub title
o Cutters has an automatic sharpening device for knife, and raw-edge of the
fabric do not fray out; As in manual cutting, which happens
Wendosen Seife due to
imperfect sharpening of knife.
Sub title
Time taken for sample making Wendosen Seife
▪ Sample making is a continuous
Wendosen Seife process in clothing industry during the
Sub title
development of a new product. The following steps are involved in the
process:
1. New material, design and processes have to beWendosen
identified.Seife
2. The production of garment patterns has to be altered Suband
titleperfected to
rectify faults during making up of the sample.
3. At the sample stage, the quantities of fabric and trimming are established
Wendosen Seife
and quick costing is made.
4. The finished garment sample has to undergo scrutiny Subtotitle
evaluate whether
they fit in the viability of producing the garment.
▪ In order to determine sample-making time, followed Wendosen Seife
the process of sample
making in both units. The following was the time taken:Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
▪ Time taken for sample making: Wendosen Seife
Wendosen
▪ By using CAD SoftwareSeife
and a Plotter it is easy to make
Subsample.
title Sample making
time was observed to be around 5 days using CAD system and about 10 days
for manual.
▪ The CAD software helps designer of pattern to alter Wendosen
it easily inSeife
quick time. This
is mainly due to collection planning CAD Software, which Subhelps
title in:
o Developing the variation from core design.
o Trying the same cloth on a number of different designs. Seife
Wendosen
o Modifying some of the ideas to make the garment more acceptable to a
Sub title
wider range of customer.
▪ With this flexible CAD System and plotter, CAD system is able
Wendosen to reduce 50%
Seife
of sample making time compared to manual system.
Sub title
• Productivity: Wendosen Seife
• ProductivityWendosen
of Unit C Seife
& Unit M was obtained by taking into account per day
Sub title
production and monthly production capacity when similar sorts of garment were
produced.
• The number of finished garment obtained each day as Wendosen Seife
observed were as follows:
• Per day productivity (Unit C) = 15,856 pieces Sub title
• Per day productivity (Unit M) = 4,013 pieces

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
• Productivity: Wendosen Seife
Wendosen
• As mentioned in the Seife
experimental procedure, the Sub CAD/CAM
title System has a
production of 15,856 pieces/day whereas the MANUAL system has 4,013
pieces/day. Increasing monthly productivity by 75%.
WendosenorSeife
• As the CAD/CAM process requires transfer of information data for marker
planning via floppy, the process is simplified and the production
Sub title is increased.
• In CAD/CAM system, the capacity of the cutting room has to deal with a
mixture of different types of cloth. Whereas in MANUAL system it is highly
Wendosen Seife
impossible to work with mixture of different types of cloth.
Sub title
• With such a flexible cutting room facilities available, Unit C must have higher
production rates compared with Unit M member together with very high
cutting speed. Wendosen Seife
Sub title
Lead time for production:
Wendosen Seife
A typical product development cycle of a garment industry consists of the following
steps: Wendosen Seife Sub title
• Designing
• Marketing
Wendosen Seife
• Purchasing/production.
• Sub titlethe above-
One has to compare lead-time of garment, taking into consideration
mentioned procedure in both Unit C and Unit M. The observed time required for
each stage of procedure, details of the time taken in the two units are as follows:
Lead time for Unit C = 39 Days
Wendosen Seife
Lead time for Unit M = 55 Days Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
• Lead-time of garment production is Wendosen
the numberSeife
of days
required Wendosen
to finish Seife
a garment from sample stage to finished
Sub title
garment.
• Lead-time during use of CAD system is about 39 days and a
Wendosen Seife
manual system is around 55 days.
Sub title
• Reduction in lead-time up to 16 days.
• This is due to: Wendosen Seife
o Faster sample production, Sub title
o Highly saved time and higher productivity combined with
flexibility, Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title

Thank You
Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 by Wendosen Seife
Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology
Bahir Dar University
Bahir Dar, Ethiopia
January, 2020
 Introduction Wendosen Seife
• Grading offers
Wendosen Seife more speed, accuracy Sub
manufacturers and title
consistency in sizing
their patterns than can be achieved by manual grading.

• After the sample design has been accepted and a Wendosen

retailer hasSeife
placed an order,
the garment has to be produced in a range of sizes. Sub title

• Most large companies are now using CAD to grade their patterns.
Wendosen Seife
• Patterns created within a PDS can pass directly into theSub
grading
title section.
• However, some companies with CAD systems are still cutting patterns
Wendosen Seife
manually.
Sub title
• Therefore, they have to input their pattern by digitising the contour.
 Digitizing- The input ofWendosen
patternsSeife
• If a patternWendosen Seife
has been cut Sub
manually, it is usually digitized title
into the system.

• The pattern is placed on the digitizer and the profile of the pattern is entered
Wendosen Seife
by accurately identifying the end of straight lines, and points along curved
Sub title
lines, with the cross hairs of an electronic cursor.

• Folds, the grain line and the position of notches, pockets

WendosenandSeife
buttonholes are
also entered. Sub title
• Points to be graded, and also their rules, can be entered during the digitizing
Wendosen Seife
or can be recorded later when the pattern is on the computer screen.
Sub title
 Digitizing- The input ofWendosen
patternsSeife
• If a patternWendosen Seife
has been cut Sub
manually, it is usually digitized title
into the system.

• The pattern is placed on the digitizer and the profile of the pattern is entered
Wendosen Seife
by accurately identifying the end of straight lines, and points along curved
Sub title
lines, with the cross hairs of an electronic cursor.

• Folds, the grain line and the position of notches, pockets

WendosenandSeife
buttonholes are
also entered. Sub title
• Points to be graded, and also their rules, can be entered during the digitizing
Wendosen Seife
or can be recorded later when the pattern is on the computer screen.
Sub title
Digitising a pattern. The image also shows a cost marker of graded pieces and plotting out on an A0 plotter.
 The general grading process
Wendosen Seife
• Some basicWendosen Seife
sizing information Subgraded
is required for a set of title patterns to be
produced.
Wendosen Seife
• The following sources can be used:
Sub title
✓ Size charts of body measurements.

✓ Garment specifi cations. Wendosen Seife

✓ A set of manually nested patterns. Sub title

✓ Grade rules supplied by a CAD supplier. Wendosen Seife

✓ G rades copied from a graded pattern shape already inSub
the title
computer system.
 Wendosen Seife
The general grading process
Wendosen Seife Sub title
• The grading of patterns by most CAD systems is based on identifying where
specifi c points on the pattern have to be extended or reduced to create a new
Wendosen Seife
size.
Sub title
• These points are moved by X and Y coordinates that tell the computer the
direction of movement; measurements are givenWendosen
to identifySeife
the position of
Sub title
the new point. This co-ordinate is known as a grade rule.

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
The general grading process
Wendosen Seife Sub title
• The grading of patterns by most CAD systems is based on identifying where
specifi c points on the pattern have to be extended or reduced to create a new
Wendosen Seife
size.
Sub title
• These points are moved by X and Y coordinates that tell the computer the
direction of movement; measurements are givenWendosen
to identifySeife
the position of
Sub title
the new point. This co-ordinate is known as a grade rule.

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Calculating a grade rule
Wendosen Seife Sub title
• Calculating a grade rule Grade rules are usually calculated to one tenth of a
millimetre.
Wendosen Seife
• The amount of movement in the X direction is writtenSub
fi rst, followed by the Y
title
direction. For example, the movement of the shoulder point between sizes is
Wendosen Seife
−4 mm horizontally and 4 mm vertically (see diagram).
Sub title
• The grade rule can be written in one tenth of a millimetre (e.g. −40 40 mm) or
in centimetres (e.g. −0.40 0.40 cm). Wendosen Seife
• It is the instruction across a range of sizes. Sub title
 Conti… Wendosen Seife
• InconsistentWendosen
grades between
Seife sizes can be registered. Sub title
• The same grade rule can be used at any point that requires the same grade.

• One grade rule is written as zero 00.00 00.00; itWendosen Seife no grade is
is used where
required. Sub title

• Companies often calculate many of the rules directly from the size charts or
Wendosen Seife
garment specifications.
Sub title
• However, manually graded ‘nests’ of blocks can be used. The nest is ‘stacked’
Wendosen Seife
usually on the armscye depth line.
Sub title
• The directions of the X and Y co-ordinates are registered from this point.
 Conti… Wendosen Seife
• Each graded point on the
Wendosen nest (these are the beginnings and ends of lines and
Seife Sub title
specific points, i.e. control points or notches) is measured.

• The measurements are checked with grading increments on size

Wendosen charts.
Seife
• Grade rules can be copied from other patterns; many
Sub companies
title use this
method.
Wendosen Seife
• Also, patterns with grade rules attached can be modified, and these grades
Sub title
can be retained on the new style.
Wendosen Seife
• This is a quick way of producing grades for sample costings.
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
The general grading process
Wendosen Seife Sub title
• The grading of patterns by most CAD systems is based on identifying where
specifi c points on the pattern have to be extended or reduced to create a new
Wendosen Seife
size.
Sub title
• These points are moved by X and Y coordinates that tell the computer the
direction of movement; measurements are givenWendosen
to identifySeife
the position of
Sub title
the new point. This co-ordinate is known as a grade rule.

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Grade rule libraries Wendosen Seife
• Grade rule libraries
Wendosen areSeife
use by many large manufacturers, particularly where
Sub title
their products do not vary greatly.

• A grade rule library is compiled of numbered grade

Wendosen
rules toSeife
be used at the
grade points. Sub title

• When the number is attached to a point, it will operate the grade.

Wendosen Seife
• The number of sizes, the size breaks and the names of the sizes have to be
Sub title
entered into the program.
Wendosen Seife
• The grade rules for the pattern are then typed in to create a library for that size
Sub title
range.
 Grade rule libraries Wendosen Seife
• Once the rules for a block
Wendosen Seifeor basic pattern are entered into the library, any
Sub title
similar or adapted pattern can also be graded using the same grade rules.

• However, few patterns are exactly the same shape.Wendosen

This meansSeife
that new grade
Sub title
rules have to be calculated by the grader and these rules added to the grade
rule library.
Wendosen Seife
• The rule libraries of companies with diverse products can become very large,
Sub title
even when split into sections.
Wendosen Seife
• This is the reason why some companies prefer to apply grade rules interactively
Sub title
or by copying them from other patterns.
 Grade rule libraries Wendosen Seife
• Once the rules for a block
Wendosen Seifeor basic pattern are entered into the library, any
Sub title
similar or adapted pattern can also be graded using the same grade rules.

• However, few patterns are exactly the same shape.Wendosen

This meansSeife
that new grade
Sub title
rules have to be calculated by the grader and these rules added to the grade
rule library.
Wendosen Seife
• The rule libraries of companies with diverse products can become very large,
Sub title
even when split into sections.
Wendosen Seife
• This is the reason why some companies prefer to apply grade rules interactively
Sub title
or by copying them from other patterns.
 Grading the pattern Wendosen Seife
• Pattern pieces, whetherSeife
Wendosen they have been digitized or generated
Sub title in a PDS, will be
checked to make sure that all grade rules (applied by any of the methods
described) are correct. Wendosen Seife
• The instruction to grade the pattern is then given. This
Suborder
title will generate a
nest of grades over a range of sizes, using the grade rules attached to the piece
Wendosen Seife
or from rules stored in the grade rule library.
Sub title
• The graded patterns appear on the screen where they can then be checked.
Wendosen Seife
• The patterns can then be drawn out on a plotter or sent directly through the
Sub title
system for lay planning and cutting.
 Wendosen Seife
The general grading process
Wendosen Seife Sub title
• The grading of patterns by most CAD systems is based on identifying where
specifi c points on the pattern have to be extended or reduced to create a new
Wendosen Seife
size.
Sub title
• These points are moved by X and Y coordinates that tell the computer the
direction of movement; measurements are givenWendosen
to identifySeife
the position of
Sub title
the new point. This co-ordinate is known as a grade rule.

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title

Thank You
Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 by Wendosen Seife
Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology
Bahir Dar University
Bahir Dar, Ethiopia
January, 2020
 Introduction Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title
• Most of the middle and larger size clothing manufacturers are using CADCAM
(computer aided design and manufacturing) systems.
Wendosen Seife
• The principal reason why they buy a system is to improve their fabric utilization
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and the speed of their production.

• More than one lay plan is usually required for a Wendosen Seife models are
style; separate
required for interlinings, linings or contrasting fabrics. Sub title

• A model is created by calling up the style’s pattern pieces (stored

Wendosen in the system)
Seife
that are to be cut in the particular fabric. Sub title
 A marker order for a lay plan Seife
Wendosen
Wendosen
• A marker order for eachSeife Sub title
fabric needs the following instructions:

1. Piece name.
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2. Sizes.
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3. Number of pieces.
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4. Fabric constraints (single- or double-ply, face-to face, one-waySeife
nap or pattern).

5. Any blocking of areas. Sub title

6. Any buffering around pieces. Wendosen Seife

7. Matching of checks or patterns. Sub title

 Cut order planningWendosen Seife
Wendosen
• Order processing Seife
for production lay plans can be verySub title
complex.

• There can be as many as eight fabrics in a jacket, each requiring a model and
Wendosen Seife
separate lay plan (marker).
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• In addition, large orders with many sizes will need a number of markers.

• It is the length of the cutting table, the width of Wendosen

the fabric and
Seifethe number
and sizes of the garments that determine the cutting plan
Sub for
titlethe markers.

• Fabric utilization is crucial to a company’s profitability.

Wendosen Seife
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 Cut order planningWendosen Seife
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• Cut plan software Seife claim to calculate the best
programs Subplan
titleefficiency for the
number of garments in the order by distributing the sizes in different markers
to get the best efficiency. Wendosen Seife
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• Some programs will also calculate any greater efficiencies that can be
achieved by changing the proportion of sizes in the order and will offer a
Wendosen Seife
range of alternatives to the company. Sub title

Wendosen Seife
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 Marker making Wendosen Seife
• Once the Wendosen Seife
information Sub title lay planning
for the order has been processed,
software brings the pattern pieces in the correct number and rotation (one-
Wendosen
way or two-way fabric) for the particular marker onto Seife
the screen.
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• The pattern pieces can then be placed manually by an operator ‘dragging’
the pieces into position. Many options allow actions such as the grouping of
Wendosen Seife
pieces, the splitting of pieces, and stripe and plaid matching capabilities.
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• Fabric utilization is the amount of cloth area used by the pattern pieces.
Wendosen Seife
Manufacturers expect this to be higher than 80%; the higher the figure the
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less cloth is wasted.
 Automatic marker making
Wendosen Seife
• Most CADCAM systemsSeife
Wendosen will make markers automatically.
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• Most large manufacturers now use the facility because improvements in
computer hardware have increased the speed and Wendosen
levels of fabric
Seifeutilization.
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• The system will try different methods of placing the pieces in the lay and will
offer the best alternative.
Wendosen Seife
• Direct web-based marker making is now available by companies such as assyst-
Sub title
bullmer through automarker.com called distance marker making .
Wendosen Seife
• It offers a global marker making service to manufacturers together with data
Sub title
security and its advantage is the power of the main computer.
 Wendosen Seife
Automatic marker making
Wendosen Seife Sub title
• Most CADCAM systems will make markers automatically.

• Most large manufacturers now use the facility because improvements in

Wendosen Seife
computer hardware have increased the speed and levels of fabric utilization.
Sub title
• The system will try different methods of placing the pieces in the lay and will
offer the best alternative. Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
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 Plotting and cutting Wendosen Seife
Wendosen
• Markers can Seife
be plotted out on large plotters or smallSub
scale on A0 plotters.
title
• The markers can be sent directly to high speed deep-ply cutters that cut
through many layers of fabric. Wendosen Seife
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• Smaller or specialized cutters have been developed for short runs, single
garment or sample cutting.
Wendosen Seife
• Lectra and Gerber have developed cutters that use intelligent
Sub title vision systems
to improve stripe and plaid matching even when the fabric is distorted.
Wendosen Seife
• The operator uses advanced camera optics to match the fabric pieces.
Sub title
 Plotting and cutting Wendosen Seife
Wendosen
• Markers can Seife
be plotted out on large plotters or smallSub
scale on A0 plotters.
title
• The markers can be sent directly to high speed deep-ply cutters that cut
through many layers of fabric. Wendosen Seife
Sub title
• Smaller or specialized cutters have been developed for short runs, single
garment or sample cutting.
Wendosen Seife
• Lectra and Gerber have developed cutters that use intelligent
Sub title vision systems
to improve stripe and plaid matching even when the fabric is distorted.
Wendosen Seife
• The operator uses advanced camera optics to match the fabric pieces.
Sub title
Deep-ply cutting on the ‘Turbocut’ knife plotter
 Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title

Thank You
Wendosen Seife
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Wendosen Seife
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Wendosen Seife
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 by Wendosen Seife
Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology
Bahir Dar University
Bahir Dar, Ethiopia
January, 2020
 Computerized body measuring techniques
Wendosen Seife
• In the majority of cases,
Wendosen Seife three-dimensional bodySub
scanners
title capture the
outside surface of the human body by using optical techniques, in
amalgamation with light sensitive devices, without physical Seife
Wendosen contact with the
body (Simmons, 2001). Sub title
• The scan subject usually wears form-fitting briefs or bicycle/running shorts
Wendosen Seife
during the process.
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• Body scanning systems consist of one or more light sources, one or more
vision or capturing devices, software, computer Wendosen Seife
systems and monitor
screens in order to visualize the data capture process.Sub title
 Computerized body measuring techniques
Wendosen Seife
Wendosen
• The primary types ofSeife
body scanning systems are laser
Suband
titlelight (Istook and
Hwang, 2001).
Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
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A flow process of 3D body scanning systems
 Sizing and made-to-measure
Wendosen Seife
• An increasing in number
Wendosen Seife of companies are including made-to-measure
Sub title
software in their product range.

• Different elements of the CAD process have madeWendosen Seife

this feasible.
Sub
• Mass customization is seen as offering a better fit, and title
also a wider choice of
styles, fabrics, linings and trimmings.
Wendosen Seife
• The process begins with the customer’s measurements being taken
Sub title
manually, or by 3D scanning systems.
Wendosen Seife
• These systems not only provide the measurements of the customer, but also
Sub title
define the form of the virtual figure that can be constantly updated.
 Sizing and made-to-measure
Wendosen Seife
• Fabrics and styles canSeife
Wendosen be selected in the store or via thetitle
Sub internet. Once the
style is selected, the customer’s measurements are compared to the nearest
size of pattern stored in the system. Wendosen Seife
• A second layer of grade rules is then used to coverSub title
most basic alterations
and body stance. When new measurements are given, the system
Wendosen Seife
automatically modifies the pattern to the new measurements.
Sub title
• Non-standard adjustments can be made in pattern design software.
Wendosen Seife
• Any lining or interlining pieces can be automatically adjusted, and small
Sub title
pieces, such as pockets and collars rarely need adjustments.
 Sizing and made-to-measure
Wendosen Seife
• A lay planWendosen
is constructed
Seife for the modified pattern;Sub
thistitle
is sent directly to a
single ply cutter which cuts individual garments at high speed.

• The patterns are defined by a set of dimensions

Wendosen
that can Seife
be modified by
typing in new measurements. Sub title

• If a point is dragged by the mouse, the system recalculates the entire model
Wendosen Seife
accordingly.
Sub title
• Expermental work has been undertaken to create 3D sized garment patterns
Wendosen Seife
by the ‘wireframe’ modeling techniques that are used in solid product
Sub title
manufacturing.
 Sizing and made-to-measure
Wendosen Seife
• Some success has been
Wendosen achieved in creating body Sub
Seife fitting garments such as
title
bras and some athletic wear.

• However, the complexity of the fit and shape of many

Wendosen Seife particularly
garments,
Sub title
those in fashion wear, means that the adoption of these techniques by the
current clothing industry is unlikely.
Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
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 Sizing and made-to-measure
Wendosen Seife
• Some success has been
Wendosen achieved in creating body Sub
Seife fitting garments such as
title
bras and some athletic wear.

• However, the complexity of the fit and shape of many

Wendosen Seife particularly
garments,
Sub title
those in fashion wear, means that the adoption of these techniques by the
current clothing industry is unlikely.
Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title

Thank You
Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
Sub title
 by Wendosen Seife
Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology
Bahir Dar University
Bahir Dar, Ethiopia
January, 2020
 Production Data Management
Wendosen Seife
• Students Wendosen Seifefirst design position are often
entering their astonished at the
Sub title
amount of documentation that is required from the designer.

• Organization is central to the designer’s work; Wendosen Seife of design

rigorous notation
Sub title
styles, fabrics, trimmings and specifications are required.

• Production data management (PDM) software controls

Wendosen Seifethe whole
production process of the garment. Sub title
• The production cycle of a garment requires accurate information that can be
Wendosen Seife
accessed by all the departments in the company.
Sub title
 Production Data Management
Wendosen Seife
Wendosen
• A PDM system Seife the repetition of identical
eliminates information being
Sub title
processed.

• The information given by the designer on each Wendosen

style formsSeife
the foundation
Sub
for the style to travel through the database as it enters thetitle
production cycle.

• The software allows authorized users to access and modify Seife

Wendosen the sketches or
photographs; the pattern, sizing and measurements; Sub the
title fabric, linings,
interfacings and trimmings information; the lay-plan and costing
Wendosen Seife
calculations; assembly instructions and making up procedures.
Sub title
 Production Data Management
Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title
• External ‘cut, make and trim’ facilities in other factories and other sourcing
information can also be accessed.
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• The information can be constantly updated, with everybody being informed
Sub title
instantly about modifications.

Wendosen Seife
Sub title

Wendosen Seife
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 Product lifecycle management (PLM)
Wendosen Seife
Wendosen
• Web-based Seife allow manufacturers to create
PLM systems a central product
Sub title
information database that can be accessed globally, from manufacturer to
Wendosen
retailer, from the earliest phase of the design process to theSeife
retailing of the
garment. Sub title

• Integrated with PDM systems through the production cycle, it gives

Wendosen Seife
knowledge of product workflow and line management.
Sub title
• The speed required to get fashionable styles to market requires a common
Wendosen Seife
information base throughout a product’s lifecycle.
Sub title
 Product lifecycle management (PLM)
Wendosen Seife
Wendosen
• Web-based Seife allow manufacturers to create
PLM systems a central product
Sub title
information database that can be accessed globally, from manufacturer to
Wendosen
retailer, from the earliest phase of the design process to theSeife
retailing of the
garment. Sub title

• Integrated with PDM systems through the production cycle, it gives

Wendosen Seife
knowledge of product workflow and line management.
Sub title
• The speed required to get fashionable styles to market requires a common
Wendosen Seife
information base throughout a product’s lifecycle.
Sub title
 Product lifecycle management (PLM)
Wendosen Seife
Wendosen
• Web-based Seife allow manufacturers to create
PLM systems a central product
Sub title
information database that can be accessed globally, from manufacturer to
Wendosen
retailer, from the earliest phase of the design process to theSeife
retailing of the
garment. Sub title

• Integrated with PDM systems through the production cycle, it gives

Wendosen Seife
knowledge of product workflow and line management.
Sub title
• The speed required to get fashionable styles to market requires a common
Wendosen Seife
information base throughout a product’s lifecycle.
Sub title
 Wendosen Seife
Wendosen Seife Sub title

Thank You
Wendosen Seife
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Wendosen Seife
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Wendosen Seife
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