GARMENTS MANUFACTURING LAB

The machines we have observed:-

1. Button whole m/c.
2. Over lock m/c (4 threads, 2 needles).
3. Lock stitch single thread.
4. Double chain stitch.
5. Bottom covering belt loop m/c.
6. Elastic inserting sewing m/c.
7. Lap seaming m/c for back tape attaching.
8. Arm hole sewing m/c.
9. Lock stitch twin needle feed.
10. Over lock one needle three thread.
11. Three needles five thread flat bed m/c.
12. Bias tape cutting m/c.
13. Gig-zag m/c.
14. Two needle four threads over lock m/c.
15. Button attaching m/c.
16. Bar taking machine with automatic thread trimmer.
Lock stitch machine
Stitch class- 300
Company- Juki
Model- 5500
Country – Japan

Features:-
 Most common used stitch class is 301.
 Number of needle- generally 1 needle or 2 needles.
 Stitches per minute 1500-5500. Stitch class-
301
 Stitch length- 5mm in juki DDL-5500 model.
 Automatic thread cutting.
 Automatic bobbin winding.
 Edge cutting system.

Use:-
 Commonly used for sewing of woven garments.

Lock stitch single thread

Company-Juki
Model-DLU-5490N-7,
Country-Japan

Feature:-

 Number of Needle-1
 Number of Thread -2
 Number of needle thread-1
 Number of bobbin Thread-1
 Stitch type lock stitch

Lock Stitch Twin Needle Feed

Company-Juki
Model-Lh3128
Country-Japan

Feature:-
 Two Bobbin
 Double Lock Stitch
Use:-
 Used in sewing oven and knitted garments

Two needle four threads over lock machine

Company –juki
Model-3714
Country-Japan

Features:-
 Number of needles-2
 Number of thread-4
 Type of stitch-over lock
Use:-
 Used Both Sewing Oven and Knitted Garments

Chain stitch machine

Stitch class- 400
Company- Juki
Model- 5430 DL
Country – Japan

Features:-
 Most common used stitch class is 401
 Number of needle- one or more needles.
 Number of thread – one or more thread (single or multi thread)
 Stitches per minute 1800-6000. Stitch class-
401
 Stitch length- 1.4mm- 4.5mm.
 Automatic thread trimmer.
 Various types of feed mechanism is adjusted to the machine.

Use:-
 Commonly used in knitted wear and jeans.
 Also used to insert lace, braid, elastic etc.
Double chain stitch machine
Company-KANSI
Model-DFB-1404 PSF
MORIMOTO MFG. CO, LTD
Country- Japan

Over lock /Over edge machine

Stitch class- 500
Company-Juki
Model- 3714
Country – Japan
Class –BE6-40K
B39/0141

Feature:-
 Number of needle- generally 1 needle or 2 needles.
 Number of thread 2-5 threads.
 Stitches per minute 6500-8500.

 Stitch length- maximum 4mm and stitch length can be Stitch class-
502
changed by push button.
 Stretching maximum 1.06
 Gathering maximum 1.4.

Use:-
 Used for sewing both woven and knitted goods but extensively used for knitted goods.

Jig-jag stitching machine

Company- Juki
Model- LZ-2281N
Country – Japan

Features:-
 Number of needle- 1 needle.
 Number of thread 2 threads.
Stitch class- 315
  Stitches per minute 5500.
 Stitch length- 2mm-2.5mm.
 Stretching width 5-10mm.

Use:-
 Used in edge neatening or decorative top stitching or to fit extra component e.g.
elastic, tape, braid etc.

Flat lock machine

Company- Juki
Model- 5500
Country – Japan

Features:-
 Number of needle up to 4.
 Number of thread 4-9.
 Most amounts of threads used to sewing 1”, 32” thread is
required.
 Stitches per minute 6000.
 Stitch density 8-16 per minute.
 Very expensive machine.

Use:-
 Used for sewing both woven and knitted goods but extensively used for knitted
goods.

Three needle five thread flatbed machines

Company-juki
Model-MF-7605U-U03-B56
Union special corp.
HUNTLEY, USA

Feature:-
 Number of Needle-3,
 Number of Thread -5
 Number of needle thread-3
 Number of lopper thread-2
 Bed type-flat
Over lock m/c (4 thread, 2 needle)

Company -Juki,
Country -Japan
Model: 3714
Class-be6-40K
B39/0141

Feature:-
 Number of needle-2
 Number of thread-4
 Number of needle thread-2
 Number of lopper thread-2
 Stitch type-over lock

Over lock one needle three thread

Company-juki
Model-3604
Country-Japan

Features:-
 Number of needle-1
 Number of thread-3
 Number of needle thread-1
 Number of lopper thread-2
 Stitch type-over lock

Blind stitch machine

Company- Juki
Model- 5500
Country – Japan

Features:-
 Curved needle used so that it can be penetrated in to the fabric
partly and again come out from the same side. For this sewing line is not
visible in face side of the fabric.
 Number of needle 1needle.
  Number of thread 1or 2 thread.
 Stitches per minute 2500.
 Security is high for 2 thread blind stitch machine.
 Optimal skip stitch device is attached by which the needle can be passed through
outside layer of fabric after 1 or 2 stitches.

Use:-
 Widely used for hemming and facing attaching.

Button holing machine

Company- Juki
Model- 5500
Country – Japan

Features:-
 Stitch group- lock or chain stitch.
 Arrangement of button hole size being small or larger.
 Arrangement of stitch density being increased or reduced.
 Button hole can be made to cut the hole before or after sewing a button hole.

Use:-
 To make a button hole.

Button attaching machine

Company- Juki
Model- MB-372
Country – Japan

Features:-
 Produces lock stitch, chain stitch or hand stitch.
 Various types’ button clamps need for attaching various sizes and types of button.
 The button may be 2 or4 holes.
 4 hole button may be sewed by cross or parallel stitches.
  If chain stitch is used, the sewing loops nice but the security of stitch is comparatively
less.
 If lock stitch is used no possibility of sewing opening but not looks nice.
 In fully automatic machine button feeding and positioning inside the button clamp is
performed by a hopper and pipe.
 It can attach pre determined number of buttons at a pre determined distance in a cyclic
order.

Use:-
 To attach button.

Arm hole sewing m/c

Company-juki
Model-MS1261
Country-Japan

Features:-

 Number of Needle-1 or More

 Number of Thread-Normally 1 but May Be More

Use:-
 To sew arm hole

Bottom covering belt loop machine

Company-KANSAI
Model-B-2000 C
KS-123829 A
Country-Japan

Use:-
 Used to sew belt loop
 Used to increase strength of sew

Elastic inserting sewing machine

Company-KANSI
Model-DFB 1404 PMD
KS-203055 A
Country –Japan

Use:-
 To insert elastic to the fabric

Lap seaming machine for back tap attaching

Company-KANSI
Model-DCR-1502 L
KS-205774 A

Use:-
 Specially use in lap seaming
 Has eye guard for safety

Bar tack machine

Company- Juki
Country – Japan

Features:-
 Cyclic machine of strong sewing in very short length.
 After making tack stitch in short length (1-2cm) Cover stitch is made on tack stitch
and the number of cover stitch.

Use:-
 Used for sewing of belt loops, closing the ends of button holes, for increasing strength
at the ends of the pocket.
 MARKER MAKING
CAD SYSTEM:

Marker making with the help of computer:-

 First production patterns are entered into the computer memory.
 For this normally scanning or digitizing method is used.
 Full length production patterns are used this full size patterns are stored in the
computer memory but shows small sizes of patterns in the computer screen.
 Computer use grade rule to get all necessary sizes of patterns.
 Here marker maker generally use computer screen, key board and light pencil etc.
 With this marker maker give some instructions to the computer such as about pattern
size, number, check matching etc.
 According to this computer itself can make marker (This is called automatic marker
making. Here computer used permutation method. It is more efficient.) or the marker maker
can make marker with the help of computer(This is known as interactive marker making. It is
comparatively less efficient.)

SOFTWARE USED FOR GARMENTS MANUFACTURING:

Modaris: to make pattern

Diamino: to make marker
Plotter: to print the pattern and it work as a scanner

Pattern making with Modaris:

Generally a software named “Modaris” is used to make pattern in computer. By this

software we can produce garments pattern quickly and easily. Just we have to draw the
pattern in the computer. Modaris is used for all phases of pattern development,
including pattern manipulation, drafting, and grinding.

Features of Modaris:
Reduce product development time
Achieve up to 50% in your overall productivity and gain time at all development stages!
Create within a job-dedicated application and generate more than working by hand.
When checking and altering, use traditional and advanced checking methods for faster
control and capitalize on a unique style structure for precise adjustments. During the grading,
get extensive possibilities for easy grading of any type of garment in any size.
Ensure perfect fitting and grading
Work with maximum precision! Take advantage of the new dynamic measurement chart
and easily make pattern measurements match specifications. With the product Modaris
ExpertPro and its association functions, ensure of permanent pattern and grading
consistencies. Finally, exploiting Modaris product dedicated features, get maximum accuracy
i.e. lingerie.
 Improve internal and external communication
Optimize your communication and share your information! The wide interoperability
capabilities of Modaris guarantee easy exchange of patterns with any CAD system of
the market. Also use the new Modaris Asset Manager and standardize pattern information
inside your pattern shop
Enjoy a customizable and user friendly application
Access an intuitive and customizable interface! With Modaris, benefit from embedded
job-oriented guided functions that ease your first use. Capitalize as well on many other
advantages and choose your language, work with short cuts, access information saved
with patterns i.e. measurements, etc.

Fig: screen shot of Modaris software

General procedure to make pattern with Modaris

First production patterns are entered into the computer memory.

For this normally scanning or digitizing method is used.
Full length production patterns are used this full size patterns are stored in the
computer memory but shows small sizes of patterns in the computer screen.
Computer use grade rule to get all necessary sizes of patterns.
Here marker maker generally use computer screen, key board and light pencil etc.
With this marker maker give some instructions to the computer such as about
pattern size, number, check matching etc.
According to this computer itself can make marker (This is called automatic marker
making. Here computer used permutation method. It is more efficient.) or the
 marker maker can make marker with the help of computer(This is known as
interactive marker making. It is comparatively less efficient.)

Marker making with Diamino:

After the patterns are created, they are transferred to Diamino, the marker-making
program. Markers are then printed using vigiPrint

Fig: Screen shot of Diamino software

Features of Diamino:
Confirmed experience in markermaking
Used by more than 10,000 professionals throughout the world, Diamino benefits
Lectra’s 30 years long experience in technologies of material optimization.
Productivity gains
Diamino significantly reduces marker-making time, so that more piece combinations can
be tested to find out the best solution. New markers are quickly generated by addition, deletion or
substitution of a model or a variant.
Material Gains
At the end of interactive marker making, a marker compression function eliminates the
empty spaces and reduces the marker length by tight-packing the pieces. This function,
particularly suitable for small pieces, can generate further fabric savings of up to 1%.
Powerful and user-friendly
Diamino achieves optimized marker making on every kind of fabric: open, folded,
double-ply and matched fabrics. The operator has a global view of the entire marker making
process and all the pieces-related information during manipulation.
Perfect integration with Lectra product range
Formaris, Lectra pattern-making software, and Diamino are fully integrated. Any
modification to a piece in Formaris is immediately taken into account in Diamino. Diamino
generates markers that can be used directly on plotters, automatic spreaders and cutting
systems. For the best cutting quality, Diamino optimizes the blade cutting path (starting point,
cutting direction, etc.) and perfectly communicates with Mosaïc, Lectra matched fabrics
solution, to achieve unrivalled quality markers on matched fabrics.
A flexible range to fulfill the professionals' needs
Four packages to respond to all customers' specific needs.

Print out:-
 Made marker can be print out with the help of plotter which is connected with
computer.
 Plotter makes the copies of marker with the help of a beam and a pen.
 Full size marker can be obtained in case of big plotter otherwise there will be a mini
marker.
 The papers are kept as roll form inside the plotter table so that it can collect necessary
amount of paper for the marker making.
 It is the best method of marker copy.

Initial investment is very high

 CUTTING SECTION

Cutting section :

The total process has four stages-

a)planning b)spreading c)cutting d)preparation for sewing

Spreads

planning Markers

Production

Manual

spreading

Computer

Machine

planning Depress

Computer

Shade
marking

Preparation Tickets
for sewing

Bundles

Cutting machine are divided into two types, the are –

1. Manually operated machine
2. Computer operated machinE
Manually operated machine are-
 Hand operated scissor
 Round knife
 Straight knife
 Band knife
 Die cutting
 Notcher
 Drill

Computer operated machine

 Knife cutting
 Cutting by water jet
 Laser cutting
 Plasma torch cutting

Description of three machines is given below. They are –

 Round knife
 Straight knife
 Band knife

Round knife:-

 Circular like knife

 Very first machine
 RPM=1000-3500
 Bade size ranges from 6cm to 30 cm in diameter
 Main parts are base plate, electric motor, handle, blade guard etc.
 Edge of blade may be of three types-waved, toothed, circular.
 Capacity-10 times of straight knife.
 Cutting height- about 40% of the blade diameter.

Use:-
 For excellent cutting of straight lines or gradual curves
Straight knife:-
 Most used knife
 Common parts are- base plate, stand, motor, handle, knife guard, grinding wheel etc.
 Height of the blade-generally 10cm to 33cm
 Height of stroke-2.5cm to 4.5cm
 Types of edge-straight, wave, shewedge, serrated edge.

Band knife:-
 The narrow blade of this machine allows the finest of shape to be cut very accurately.
 Some band knife machine have air flotation tables which support the block of work on
a fine air cushion, enabled the cutter to monocurve the work during cutting with the
minimum disturbance to the plaices.