Chapter 3:

3.1 Weaving process

Weaving is interlacement of warp with weft thread. In weaving, the warp thread and weft
yarn are crossed over one another in a set method in order to weave the required type of
fabric. A machine designed to accomplish this task is called a loom. First, the warp thread
and weft yarn are prepared so that they can be set into the loom.
Figure no : Weaving process

3.1.1 Weaving preparation

Yarn is the basic building in weaving. Therefore, after yarn manufacturing, the next
successive step should be to weave the yarn into a fabric. However, in practice, the condition
of yarn produced on the spinning machine is not always good enough to be used directly for
fabric formation. Package Size, yarn surface characteristics, and other factors make it
necessary for both filling yarn and warp yarn to be further processed for efficient fabric
formation. These preparatory processes are called weaving preparation. Warp and filling
yarns are subjected to different conditions and requirements during weaving. Therefore, the
preparation of warp and weft yarns is different. Warp yarn is subjected to higher stress which
requires extra preparation. Depending upon the weaving methods, the filling yarns may not
be prepared at all, but rather taken straight off the spinning process and transported to the
weaving process.
 3.2 Yarn dyeing

SOFT WINDING
Yarns are transferred from paper cones to plastic tubes or steel tubes (package dyeing)
or beams (beam dyeing).
BATCHING
Yarns are batched according to their count, lot, yarn type and others. A batch card is
formed which contains the essential information of that batch.
DYEING
The yarn for the spinning room is in the form of spinning bobbins. For dyeing purposes,
it has to be packed in Spring tubes (which can be compressed) or plastic tubes. These
packages are named packages, which are then sent for dyeing. Beams are prepared
which are then sent for yarn beam dyeing.
SOFT PACKAGES
The requirements that a yarn dye package has to meet can be split into 2 major aspects:
demands from dyeing, demands from downstream processes and quality control.

Procedure of yearn dyeing:

Bleachin
g

Washin
g

Dyeing

Soaping

Figure no : The workflow of Yarn Dyeing

3.2.1 Yarn dyeing – Sipoc for yarn dyeing section

S - Supplier - Spinning dyes and chemical utility

I - Input - Greigh yarn, steam, water, power and manpower.
P - Process - SSM, dyeing, drying, QA checking and delivery.
O - Output - Dyed, pre bleach and OBA yarn.
C - Customer - Preparatory and weaving.

3.2.2 Process flow of yarn dyeing

 FIGURE 3.3 PROCESS FLOW OF YARN DYEING

3.2.3 Dyeing related requirements

These include the basic physical issues relating to the fundamental requirement of each and
every fiber in the dye package to be exposed to an equal amount of dye liquor over an equal
length of time, and, thus, we require:

● Uniform liquor flow within a package

● Uniform liquor between packages (within batch)
● Uniform liquor flow between packages (batch-to-batch)

In other words, each and every yarn dye package has to conform to a prescribed density and
this density has to be uniform from inside to outside and from tip to toe of the package.
Similarly, packages of identical density and uniformity have to be produced on any spindle of
a winding machine at any given time, meaning total reproducibility. The density of spun yarn
dye packages recommends by leading dyeing vessel manufacturers is:

● For Cotton: 420 g/l

● For Cotton/ Polyester blend: 460 g/l
After dyeing, the yarn will be used in either weaving or knitting, and, thus has to be unwound
for further processing. Therefore, no tension variation or disturbed yarn layers must be
present, as these defects are the major source of yarn hairiness or breakages.
In Arvind Mills

● There are 37 workers and the production per day is around 14 tons.
● Types of cones: - Paper Plastic Tube (PPT), use and throw (135-140 g) - Spring tube-
stainless steel-reusable (165 g)
● Package Size: 1.2 kg.
● These soft packages are used for dyeing checks and stripes.

Soft package preparation through soft winding machine

FIGURE 3.4 SOFT PACKAGE PREPARATION

IMAGE SOURCE (PPT)

 3.2.4 Package dyeing

Loading & Pressing of package in to Carrier Loading and unloading of carrier

FIGURE 3.5 PACKAGE DYEING PROCESS IMAGE

SOURCE (PPT)

Drying of material through Hydro Extractor & RF dryers

FIGURE 3.6 PACKAGE DYEING PROCESS IMAGE

SOURCE (PPT)
 3.2.5 Beam dyeing

Besides the yarn being wound in the form of soft packages, it is also wound on beams for
beam dyeing purposes. Beam dyeing is mainly carried out if we want one color in the warp
direction of the fabric.

3.2.6 Working principle of Beam dyeing machines

The working principle is the same as that of HTHP yarn dyeing machines. The process of
beam dyeing is as follows,
1. The yarn in open width is rolled on to a perforated beam.
2. The beam then subsequently inserted into a dyeing vessel.
3. The machine is closed and pressurized.
4. The dye liquor is circulated in to out and out to in directions, under pressure and
temperature is employed as per the process requirement.
5. The chemicals and auxiliary are injected as per requirement of the process.

In Arvind Mills
Specifications:
85% efficiency
400-500 m/hr. speed
30 kg/ beam- max. capacity (1160 m.)
Faller wire stop motion device
Per shift- 24 beams
The packages were mounted on a creel. Each creel has about 700- grey packages. One and a half hours
are required to change the creel.
A creel has 700 cones.
Beam preparation through Direct warping machine

FIGURE 3.7 BEAM PREPARATION MACHINE

IMAGE SOURCE (PPT)

Loading & Tightening of beam onto the carrier

FIGURE 3.8 BEAM DYEING PROCESS

IMAGE SOURCE (PPT)

3.2.7 Capacity matrix of yarn dyeing

FIGURE 3.11 CAPACITY MATRIX

3.2.8 Winding
Yarn packages come from the dyeing unit in the form of packages winded in spring or PP
tube. They can be directly used for warping or for weft yarn on the looms. So, the weaving
department is equipped with winding machines and autoconers. These machines are also used
to recycle the left-over cone packages. Packages that have been used for warping or as weft
on the looms, are collected and converted to bigger packages so they can be used again. In
the process, the yarn from a number of ring frame bobbins or hanks is put in a long
continuous length on to bigger packages such as Warper’s bobbin, cone or cheese. During
this process, the objectionable faults are removed from yarn. For the use of dyed yarn, ring
frame bobbins may be taken to the reeling process to obtain hanks. These hanks are dyed &
then sent to winding. The yarn is dyed in cone/cheese form
also. Thus, winding packages are taken to the next process of warping i.e., Direct Warping
or Sectional Warping. There are 80 workers in this department.

3.2.9 Objectives of winding:

● Scanning and faults removing: Electric Scanners (uster) are used for checking and
elimination of yarn faults during the winding process. This process is called
Pasteurization of yarn. Such faults are called scan-cuts.
● Splicing of broken or cut yarn: Auto splicing is done for broken yarn pieces to
eliminate yarn knots and bad piecing.
● Bigger and quality package: Conversion of yarn from small ring bobbins to bigger
yarn cones of different international standard or as per requirement of customer.
Faults during this process need to be controlled through monitoring and
continuous study

3.2.13.1 For winding

Make of the machine No. Of heads No. Of machines

Muratec 60 4
Machconer No.7
VSS
Schlafhorst 50 5
Autoconer 238
Muratec 50 12
Machconer No.7
Oerlikon 60 8
Schlafhorst
Autoconer X5

3.2.13.2 Winding Data Sheet

 FIGURE 3.13 WINDING DATA SHEET IMAGE SOURCE (PPT)

3.3 Warping
Warping is transferring many yarns from the creel of a single-end package forming a parallel
sheet of yarn wound on to be a beam or section beam. Warping machines can process all
types of materials including coarse and fine filament and staple yarns, monofilament,
textured and smooth yarns, silk and other synthetic yarn such as glass. A warp beam that is
installed on a weaving machine is known as a weaver beam. A weaver beam contains
thousands of
ends, but in denim production a beam obtain from warping is known as section beam because
denim is made from dyed yarn that’s why first section beam can be obtained and then these
section beams are combined on the stage dyeing and sizing to get required number of ends for
weaving process. In denim production initially the yarns are first dyed and then the weaving
process is carried out.

3.3.1 Quality of a good warp

The essential features of a good warp are as follows:
 FIGURE 3.14 WARPING MACHINE
IMAGE SOURCE (PPT)

● Uniform in cross section.

● Sufficiently and uniformly strong.
● Uniform warp tension.
● Uniformly sized.
● Less hairy and clean.
● Minimum no. of knots.
● Proper or standard size and types of knots.
● Free from naps, slubs and loose fibers.
● Parallel arrangement of warp yarn in the weaver's beam.

(DIRECT WARPING OR BEAM WARPING)

The objective of warping is to collect a predetermined number of single end packages
(winding package from which a single thread comes out on unwinding) & convert it into
sheet form with ends uniformly spaced & wind a specified length on to the warper's beam.
Thus, at the end of the process, we get a multi end package (package which on unwinding
gives no. of ends) i.e. warper beam wound with a sheet of uniformly spaced (hundreds of)
ends of specified length. To have a sheet, the warper’s beam is subjected to dyeing to get
dyed warp.

3.3.2 Components of a warping machine:

Creel:

Cone Holder Hold the cone or arrange the

cone in the creel

Yarn Guide To guide the yarn

Tension Rod Maintain yarn tension by upper

& lower disc tensioner.
Ceramic guide disc To guide the yarn from creel
to warping machine
Auto Stop Sensor To sense the breakage yarn

Creel Panel Board Display where the yarn breaks

Head Stock:

Guide Reed Uniformly spread the yarnover

the warp width
Adjustable V-Reed Guides the yarn to follow
the fixed path
Speed Controller Control the speed, crawl speed
or full speed
Pressure Roller Exert required pressure to
the warp yarn
Measuring Device Measures the length of the yarn
 Beam Bracket Holds the warp beam

Emergency Stop Device For emergency stop

Automatic Knock off Stops the machine at achieving

required yarn length or if the
yarn breaks
Electrical Panel Board To give the automatic
controlled function

3.3.3 Warping machines in shirting division of Arvind.

FIGURE 3.15 WARPING MACHINE

IMAGE SOURCE (PPT)

BENNINGER’S WARPING MACHINE

MODEL AGCH 9240

Maximum creel capacity 640 (V-Creel used)

 Minimum creel capacity 334

Speed 20/ min. to 1200/ min.

Tensioner Type Electronic

Pressure 200 daN to 600 daN

Manufacturing Country Germany

Number of Machines 8

VAMATEX WARPING MACHINE

Maximum creel capacity 600 (V-Creel used)

Minimum creel capacity 250

Speed 20/ min. to 800/ min.

Tensioner Type Semi Automatic

Pressure 200 daN to 600 daN

Manufacturing Country India

Number of Machines 5

3.4 Sizing

Sizing is a complementary operation which is carried out on warps formed by spun yarns
with insufficient tenacity or by continuous filament yarns with zero twist. In general, when
sizing is necessary, the yarn is beam warped, therefore all beams corresponding to the beams
are fed, as soon as warping is completed, to the sizing machine where they are assembled.
Sizing consists of impregnating the yarn with particular substances which form on the yarn
surface a film with the aim of improving yarn smoothness and tenacity during the subsequent
weaving stage. It improves yarn tenacity and elasticity, so that the yarn can stand without
problems the tensions and the rubbing caused by weaving.
In the sizing process, a coating of a starch-based adhesive is applied to the sheet of yarn to
improve its weavability. It increases yarn strength; it also reduces hairiness, which minimizes
the abrasion that occurs between the warp threads and the various parts of loom, and between
threads that are adjacent to each other.
Arvind generally sources sizing chemicals (Seycofilm, Seycobond etc.) from Refnol Resins
& Chemicals, Ahmedabad (Gujarat).
Sizing Ingredients-
● Starch - Starch is the main sizing ingredient. They coat the warp yarn with a film & impart
smoothness by binding the projecting fibers to the yarn surface. e.g., Potato, CMS
(CarboxyMethylated Starch), PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol)
● Binder - These materials penetrate into the yarn & contribute in increasing yarn strength.
e.g., Polyacrylamide, Polyacrylonitrile etc.
● Softener - The hard fragile film is softened by addition of softener. They increase flexibility
of yarn after sizing; e.g., Tallow, Soap, Japanese wax, Modified wax, Artificial wax.
● Antiseptic agent - The size recipe consists of starch which is the protein substance in the
favorable medium for the development of the micro-organism (Fungi, Mould, etc).
● Anti-static agent
● Weighting agent - These agents are used to increase the weight of the fabric.

Typical sizing recipe

In 500 Liter Water.
• Starch: 10-20%of water.
• Binder: 2-4% of water.
• Softener: 0.5-1% of water.

Arvind generally sources sizing chemicals (Seycofilm, Seycobond etc.) from Refnol Resins &
Chemicals, Ahmedabad (Gujarat).
The four main parts of Sizing machines are:

● CREEL- This houses the warper‘s beams and should ensure that there is a uniformity of
tension throughout the ends on the weaver‘s beam by strictly controlling the tension applied
to the sheet of yarn from each back beam.
 ● THE SIZE BOX- The sheet of yarn from the back beams is guided into the size liquor where
an immersion roller ensures that there is adequate facility for the yarn to be thoroughly
saturated. Squeeze roller ensures that there is adequate penetration and excess is removed.
● DRYING- Cylinders are preferred because they are more efficient when use in multiples,
although when compared with hot-air systems, they do tend to flatten the yarn and require
more softener in the size mix in order to ensure an acceptable level of pliability.
● HEADSTOCK- The headstock comprises a number of different parts that, in sequence, can be
used for waxing, moisture regain measurement, sheet splitting, measuring and marking, beam
drives and stretch control.

Make of the Machine No. of Machines

Ukil 3

Sucker Muller SD-C (hacoba) 13

Karl Mayer 1

FIGURE 3.16 CREEL

 FIGURE 3.17 SIZING MACHINES

DRAWING in ( REEDING )

The one-by-one threading of the warp yarns through the spaces between the dents of the reed is an
operation which is referred to as drawing-in‖ or reeding. The process of passing warp threads through
heald eyes and reed dents according to the desired design is called drawing or denting.

PROCEDURE:

Beam released from warping is brought in this section. Warp ends are drawn through heald eyes of frames
as instructed in the draft by Design department. Ends are simultaneously drawn through reed dents also.
Ends are taken over serrated bars and drop pins are put on each individual end. The yarns ends are tied
together to avid entangling and removal from healed eyes. The whole assembly (of beam, serrated bars
with drop pins, heald frames and reed) is put on a trolley and taken to looms by beam getters for gaiting by
jobbers.

Weaving mechanism
 Figure no. : Weaving mechanism

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mechanism.html

PRIMARY MOTION
These are the motion which are most necessary in any loom to produce the fabric without these motions
weaving is not possible. These are the fundamental motions of a loom that is why these are called as primary
motions. There are three primary motions of loom.

Shedding- It involves rising and (or) descending of warp yarns to create a space amongst the warp yarns for
weft direction.
Picking- Picking refers to weft insertion. It is means by which the weft is projected through the shed.
Beating- It is pushing newly inserted pick to fell off cloth.

There are two types of looms: Airjet and Rapier.

SHEDDING PICKING BEATING

Airjet Positive electronic staubli High speed compresses air Straight reed mounted on
dobby type sley

Rapier Positive electronic staubli Double rapier system Straight reed mounted on
dobby type sley

Shedding-Positive Electronic Dobby

Dobby systems normally control a maximum of 6 to 32 heald shaft. It uses computers into which desired
lifting plan is fed. This is then entered onto a disc that is subsequently fed to the dobby, where the pattern
is read and memorized by an electronic system. This system eliminates the possibility of miss-lifts resulting
from broken pegs and torn pattern sheets. As a disc can be removed from the dobby after the pattern has
been memorized, it can be used for a number of looms so removing the need to make duplicate patterns.

Picking-Air-Jet Insertion

In air-jet insertion, high speed compressed air is used. It could run at higher speeds of around 400 picks per
minute. There are no width restrictions. The weft insertion rates are of 1500+ meters per minute. It
includes weft patterning as well as dobby and jacquard shedding.
INSERT BULLETS HERE I CANT FOR SOME REASON
Picking- Double Rapier System
Working width of 3000 nm.
Speed – 800 meters per minute.
Weft patterning is achieved, more easily.
Popular for fancy weaving, especially when pattern changes are frequent.
Two rapiers are used.
One carries the weft to the centre of the loom where it meets the other and transfers the grip-hold on the
tip of the yarn.
The second rapier then completes the pick insertion as the rapiers are withdrawn.

Beating- Up
The reciprocating red is responsible for pushing the pick into the fell of the cloth for beat-up.

Figure: The primary motions of the loom

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SECONDARY MOTION
These motions are next in importance to the primary motions. For continuous weaving these secondary motions
are necessary. So these motion are call as secondary motions. There are three secondary motions in
weaving.

Let-off: The sheet of the warp yarn is controlled by keeping it under tension.
Take-up: The cloth take-up motion withdraws cloth from the fell and then stores it at the front of the loom.
Weft Selection: A weft selection or patterning mechanism is only necessary when it is desired to vary the
weft being inserted.

Let-Off

The amount of tension applied to the warp affects the end breakage rate, the warp and weft crimp ratios
and thereby the width and length of the fabric, the general appearance of the fabric and selvedge.
Mechanisms to ensure that the warp is under the correct tension will restrict the rotation of the beam
either by (i) applying a braking force (negative let-off) or (ii) by driving the beam through a mechanism
(automatic let-off)

Take-Up

There are three aspects of controlling the cloth once it leaves the fell;
The temple (a cloth control guide, one at either side of the loom) is essential in holding the cloth correctly
just in front of the fell.
The pick density is determined by the speed of rotation of the take up roller.
The cloth must then be stored at the loom until the desired length has been woven.

Weft Selection or Patterning

In rapier weaving, the weft is picked up by a guide which moves the yarn across the path of the rapier head
just outside the selvedge on the supply side of the loom.

In air-jet weaving, upto four jet points are used at the entry point of the shed. Selection determines which
of the jets will operate and so which weft will be inserted on each pick.

Ancillary motion

These motions are optional and not necessary but to get high productivity and good quality of fabric these are
very useful motion. The ancillary motion includes:
Warp Stop Motion: It halts the loom when a drop wire falls as the result of an end break.
Weft Stop Motion: It halts the loom in the event of a break in the weft yarn.
Figure : The different motions of the loom

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In Arvind, piezo elements are used. It creates vibration which generates a pulse in an electronic unit. If this
unit fails to receive a signal when the weft is being inserted, it will act through the electronic unit to stop
the loom before beat-up can occur.

3.5 Singeing
Also called gassing, singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an
even surface by burning off projecting fibres, yarn ends, and fuzz. This is accomplished by
passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates.
Figure: fabric singeing machine
http://www.swastiktextile.com/gas_singening_machine_super_singe.html

3.6 Desizing

Desizing is the process of removing the size material from warp yarns after a textile fabric is
woven.

There are three main types of singeing machines:

1. Plate singeing machine
2. Rotary-cylinder singeing machine
3. Gas singeing machine

Process
Singeing machine is the process passed out for removing loose hairy fiber protruding from
the surface of the cloth there by giving it a clean looking surface. If the fabric is to have a
smooth finish then singeing is essential. Singeing and desizing is a dry process used on
woven goods that remove the fibers protruding from yarns or fabrics. These are burned off
by passing the fibers over a flame or heated copper plates. Singeing and desizing improves
the surface appearance of woven goods and reduces pilling. It is really useful for fabrics that
are to be printed or where a smooth finish is desired. Pollutant outputs associated with
singeing include relatively small amounts of exhaust gases from the burners.
Desizing machines specifications.

Gas singeing machine:

Name: Osthoff-(Senge-Desize m/c)

42327 wuppertal
Bj-1994
Model-pk94
No-6400
Origin: Germany
Machine speed 80 to 100 mtr/min

3.7 Data preservation

Arvind preserves the data of any order for upto 6 months after the order has been completed
in case of any problems or queries.
This data is preserved in the form of a continuity card. The continuity card contains the
following details:
1. Having a full test report of each batch.
2. Tested specimen.
3. Greige fabric small sample.
4. Finish Samples shade reference from each shade lot.
The fabric specimen helps in identifying the order in a more convenient way. All the
information also helps the company in case the customers have any questions or problems
after the completion of the order.

FIGURE 3.21 The continuity cards used at Arvind

Learning outcome