The MG Car Company and Its Brethren

First off it's important to announce the meaning of the MG logo.

MG stands for Morris Garages. These being named after
William Morris, who was later created as Lord Nuffield. The
marque was first used in 1924 in a bull nosed sports car, now
affectionately name Old Number One. This formed the basis of
the MG Car Company, with Lord Nuffield at its head. In 1922
management of the MG Car Company was taken over by Cecil
Kimber. Kimber was an avid motor sports enthusiast and is also
credited for introducing the classic radiator style recognizable
on so many cars such as the T-Series MG's.

The Nuffield Organization not only owned the MG Car Company

but a number of other marques as well, often competing with
MG over the years. These included Morris and Riley. At times it
seemed that MG could never get the resources they needed to
become world leaders in the marketplace. Not only were they competing with
the likes of Triumph and Austin, but the real battle seemed to go on internally
in the Nuffield Organization. This continued right through the merger of
Nuffield and Austin in 1952 which formed the British Motor Company (BMC).
MG's were produced in Abingdon, England from the early 1930's until
production ceased in 1980. Other cars from the Nuffield organization were
also produced at Abingdon during the years and vied for precious resources.

The MG T-Series
In 1936 the MG Car Company made a dramatic change in the design of their
sports cars. In this year they introduced the MGTA Midget. The MGTA
originated the familiar T-Series design element and to the casual observer, it
is hard to distinquish from the MGTC. The MGTA sported the famous radiator
design, the swept wings, running boards, folding windscreen, and large
accessible bonnet. It was a two seater sports car with a foldable hood and
side curtains. Just over 3,000 MGTA's were produced in three years of
production. The MGTA suffered from a poor performing engine and in 1939
the MGTB was introduced with the now famous XPAG engine. Only a few
were produced as in a few months World War II broke out.

During World War II production of MG's ceased as the MG Car Company was
put into service for the war effort making tanks and airplane parts, and other
military items. When the war ended the the MG Car Company was anxious to
get back to making sports cars. They revisited the MGTB and made a few
subtle changes. These were in the form of a wider body and shackles
replacing sliding trunnions for the spring mounts. The Nuffield Organization
also made another drastic change. They started taking an active interest in
selling their sports cars in North America. It appears that during the War a
number of American GI's had an opportunity to experience the T-Series MG's.
When the War ended a number of these cars were imported and then formally
sold into North America, especially the United States. The MGTC was
produced from 1945 to 1949 with a total production of about 10,000 cars.

Due to the fact that the United States had much more cash available to spend
on entertainment and sports than did war torn Britain, the Nuffield
Organization made a drastic change in their marketing, focusing on North
America. In 1949 the MGTC was fitted with many elements to make it more
North American such as front and rear bumpers, twin horns, and dual tail
lamps. Even by making these changes only a fraction of the MGTC's were
imported into North America. There were still too many issues with a car of
this type for different North America conditions. Amongst those were driving
on the right hand side of the road rather than the left, more high speed
maneuvers such as freeways, a softer ride, and some additional creature
comforts. What was needed was a total redesign of the MGTC if the MG Car
Company was to capture a significant portion of the North American market.
What was missing was a total commitment from the Nuffield Organization to
do so.
The Legacy of the MGTD
In 1949 a small group of MG leaders, headed by John Thornley, got together
to try to create a car that was acceptable to the North American marketplace
while at the same time would limit the investment of the Nuffield Organization.
Clearly it would be impossible to completely create a new car, not only from a
financial point but from a timing standpoint as well. What was needed was a
little of the old, sprinkled with a little of the new. Another key factor was to
borrow or incorporate features found in other Nuffield cars of the time that
were more up to date than the MGTC.

First it was decided to start with the MGTC. It was felt that the MGTC still
provided a favorable brand image to the North American marketplace. Many
elements of the MGTC were still believed to be important such as:

• The styling
• Safety Fast engineering
• The powertrain
• The familiarity of design

What was missing was:

• More futuristic styling

• Better turning and handling
• A smoother ride
• Left hand drive
• More creature comforts such as an optional heater and radio

Quickly a team of MG personnel took inventory of the components of the

Nuffield Organization that they had to work with. They discarded the TC's
frame because it was to light and not rigid enough. They found what they
wanted in the Y types. A small modification to the frame was to have it sweep
over the rear axle rather than under. This gave them more travel in the rear
springs so they could increase the damping. In addition they adopted rack and
pinion steering and front coil springs and wishbones. This and the change in
rear end suspension allowed for a smoother ride and better handling than the
MGTC. One of the major changes was to reduce the wheel size from 19
inches to 15 inches and increase the tire width to 5.50. All of these changes
made the MGTD a superior riding car over the MGTC.

Because of the use of the larger frame the body became 5 inches wider.
Although the body increased by 5 inches, only one inch actually found it's way
into the cockpit so there is an indiscernible difference in the seating width. The
biggest change that people notice about the MGTD from the MGTC is the lack
of wire wheels. As part of the Nuffield cost cutting challenge the more
expensive wire wheels of former T-Series cars were replaced by solid steel
wheels. For the entire production run of the MGTD the factory took heat for
this decision. They constantly tried to create implausible technical reasons
why wire wheels would not work but their reasons were never accepted by the
marketplace. In fact wire wheels were one of the most popular aftermarket
accessories at the time. Nuffield itself had to offer an upgrade kit to wire
wheels during 1953 because the essentially identical 1954 MGTF chassis
sported wire wheels as an option.

Other changes between the MGTC and the MGTD were more stylized wings,
partially due to the smaller wheels. A dual production capable LHD or RHD
model, better brakes, adjustable steering column, and an interchangeable
dashboard for left or right hand driving were also incorporated. An optional
radio and heater, as well as many accessories designed to improve the
performance of the car were made available.

The MGTD Models

The MGTD was produced from 1949 to August of 1953. During that period the
MGTD saw many subtle changes, but nothing drastic. See the pages on
production for details on the changes of the MGTD over the years. The MGTD
was offered in three basic models although no more than two were ever
available at one time.

TD

The original MGTD was first produced in late 1949 and had it's formal
introduction in January of 1950. There were a total of four model years; 1950,
1951, 1952, and 1953. The first model set the stage for what the MGTD was.
Because of the short amount of time from the inception of the MGTD to the
delivery of the first cars, not everything was quite as the MG Car Company
would have liked it. In fact they were still making MGTC's on the production
line when the first MGTD's were produced. Other models were also being
made on the same assembly line at the same time. This says something of
the flexibility of the Abingdon work crews and factory.

Most changes to these early MGTD's were unnoticeable from the untrained
eye. One exception to this was the change from solid wheels to slotted
wheels. Still steal and not wire, but a change nothing else. Most of this seems
to be precipitated from the fact that the brakes were fading due to poor
cooling. Another change was to stiffen the body by adding an internal under
firewall tubular frame. It helped but the MGTD body bucket still seems to flex
quite a bit when pressed into corners.

TD II

The TD II (not to be confused with the MGTD Mark II) was essentially more
refinements done to the car by the factory. Minor changes to the engine
generated the need to create a new engine type, the XPAG/TD2. This in turn
caused them to designate these cars as TD2's, although even their marketing
materials never really mentioned this change. There really weren't any model
years for the MGTD, as changes were introduced subtly. The biggest changes
occurred during the 1953 model year as sales of the MGTD started to fall in
favor of cars like the TR2 and Healey 100. In 1953 MG introduced round
taillamps (not sure what the feature of these were), turn signals, a three bow
top or hood, and moved the windscreen wiper motor central for safety
reasons.

TD/C or TD Mark II

In the middle of 1950 model year the MG Car Company began factory
producing some special MGTD's known as the Mark II. These cars were
essentially regular MGTD's that had been given some extra factory
accessories and tuning. There was not an exact list of these features, and in
fact over the production of the MGTD the features of the Mark II would
change. It was also possible at the time to buy everything for a regular MGTD
that the Mark II model offered. Some of the changes were to increase the
base horsepower of the engine from 54 bhp to 57 bhp, larger tires, additional
Andrex friction shocks front and back, higher rear end ratios, dual fuel pumps,
and larger carburetors. Most of the features of the Mark II were a part of the
staged tuning that was described in various publications and offered as a
factory tuning manual.

From all these changes it appeared that little changed in how the car actually
handled. Many folks opted to buy a regular MGTD and go through a series of
Stage Tunings to increase the performance of the MGTD well above what the
Mark II achieved.
The Follow-on of the MGTD
Production of the MGTD peaked in 1952 and 1953 found sales of the car
starting to fall. Again the MG Car Company found itself in need of a whole
new automobile but without the support of the parent BMC Organization.

The MG EX175

John Thornley's team at Abingdon had crafted a complete replacement for the
MGTD code named the EX175. Because of the organizational changes that
occurred when BMC took control of the MG Car Company, the EX175 was in
direct competition to it's new step cousin, the Austin-Healey 100. Since the
Healey was already committed, BMC did not want a new fangled MG to dilute
the possible sales so MG was left high and dry without a replacement for the
MGTD.

MGTF, MGTF 1500 and MGA

An effort to recapture the marketplace by doing what they had successfully

done before was attempted in 1953. Borrowing on the success of the MGTD
and Mark II as well as a little streamlining of the body, the MG Car Company
created the MGTF. The TF was immediately shunned by the public. It was
clear that all MG had done was to pound a bit on the body and fenders, add
some more comfortable bucket seats, and throw on some wire wheels. In fact
the car was worse in many ways because you could not easily get to the
engine to modify it or maintain it like you could on prior T types. The TF 1200
still performed poorly compared to other sports cars of the period. In 1955 MG
came out with a more powerful 1500 cc engine that replaced the tiring 1250
cc engine of past T Series cars.

Finish information on the MGTF can be found at this page. For more
information on the MGTF please see these pages.

This larger capacity engine did improve the performance greatly and made
the MGTF 1500 a much better performing car on the freeways and tollways of
North America. Still the MGTF never captured the success of the MGTD and
was replaced by the MGA within two short years.

The MGA represented a significant change from the T-Series cars and
actually looked like it belonged to the era it was produced in. It supported
much of the same chassis and drive train features as the MGTF but had an all
new streamlined body. Interestingly the car had a remarkable resemblance to
the EX175. Over time MG would make many changes to the MGA in both
styling, performance and handling. At one point they even offered a hard top,
called the MGA Coupe as well as a twin cam engine.
This section covers the finishes of the MGTD in type, material, and colors.

Note: It is generally not considered a deviation from the original if you

improve the finish of an item so long as you do not change the texture or
characteristic of that item.

MGTD Color Schemes

Top

The table below shows all the body and interior colors available during the
production of the MGTD. The radiator grill slats generally matched the interior
color.

Note: You may click on the image to see a sample of this color scheme
from an original brochure.

Body Color Interior Color Dates¹ Comments

1949-
Black Red
1953
1949-
Green
1953
1949-
Beige 1951,
1953²
1949-
MG Red Red
1953
 1949- On red and green cars the grill
Beige 1951, color for tan interiors could be
1953² either tan or the body color.
Autumn Red Red 1951
Beige 1951
Woodland
1949-
Green-BRG Green
1953

1949- On red and green cars the grill

Beige 1951, color for tan interiors could be
1953² either tan or the body color.
Almond
Green 1951
Green
1949-
Beige
1951
1949-
Ivory Red
1953
1949-
Green
1953
Clipper Blue
Red ?

1949- Replaced by Silver Streak

Beige
1951 Grey
Sunburst
Red 1951 Metallic
Bronze
Green 1951 Metallic
Silver Streak 1952- Metallic. Replaced Clipper
Red
Grey 1953 Blue

¹ Date information used with permission from Original MG T Series by Anders

Clausager. Published by MBI Publishing Company 1-800-826-6600.

² Only on non exported cars.

Note: The colors in this table are approximate. Due to the nature of each
computer display and the limits of the color pallet of your system, there may
be a large difference between these colors and the actual production colors.

Note: Apparently MG did not have strict formulas or consistent suppliers for
their finishes, so even during the production of the T-Series there would be
large discrepancies between cars of the same color. The cars were also not
documented with their color on an ID plate. This practice did not start until the
MGTF model in late 1953.
Note: CKD cars were delivered with primer only. This was also available as
an orderable option so any paint color is original on one of these cars.

Note:The exterior piping (cord filled fabric material between sheet metal
parts) color matched the body paint color.

Paint Formulas
Top

Body Colors

This table provides a list of formulas or color equivalents to the original colors
used for the MGTD. As always you should have a quart (or gallon) of paint
mixed first and spray it on a large piece of sheet metal before you decide what
color you like. Even better is to get a few quarts of paint and give your car a
quick paint job before restoration to make sure you like the color. When you
are satisfied with the color choice then you can strip all the paint off and start
over. Sounds crazy, but at least you will like the results.

If you have a car that has never been stripped of its' paint you may be able to
tell what color it was originally by taking off a fender and looking at the area
that rested against the body bucket. I was not only able to do that but after the
use of a little rubbing compound the paint was in good enough shape in those
areas that a color match was done after 25 years of service. The color was
compared to other cars painted the same color to insure that I had a
reasonable match.

Silve
Autumn Woodland Almond Clipper Sunburst
Manufacture Black MG Red Ivory Strea
Red Green Green Blue Bronze
Grey

Color

BMC Code BK1 RD14 RD6 GN29 GN37 YL5 BU14 N/A GR25
93- 93-98249 93- 93-
Dupont 99 83449
83450H 6606 96233H 25888
Ditzler 2246 72030
9000 71993 50930 44159 81271 12297 23662
(PPG) 43342 33676
R&M A946 BM121R BM108R BM078 BM076 BM127 BM042 BM02
Martin- 25235
25011 20216 20561(?) 20214 25286 25280
Senour 23235?

Note: The colors in this table are approximate. Due to the nature of each
computer display and the limits of the color pallet of your system, there may
be a large difference between these colors and the actual production colors.
 Note: Match red or green grills with body color. When body is not red or green
then use MG Red or Almond Green as appropriate.

Miscellaneous Colors

This table provides colors for the non body components of the MGTD.

Note: Many of the colors in this table are approximate and not absolute. But
then again, even in the production of the MGTD non of the colors were
absolute either, so these are all reasonable choices.

Hood Instrument Tecalemit Purolato

Engine / Oil Filter
Manufacture Chassis Sidecurtain Panel Oil Filter Oil Filte
Transmission² Early
Frame (metallic)2,3
(metallic)3 (metalli

Color

Dupont 99¹ 57597H 44371 43107LH 43094L

Ditzler 9000 50930
R&M A946 AC402 BM145 M63-64 FM130

¹ I like to use Dupont Imron due to it's superior finish and longevity. The
original finish on the chassis parts was a semi gloss enamel.

² Close engine and instrument panel (220-530) paint colors can be obtained
from such suppliers as Moss Motors.

I believe that the TD instrument panel was the same darker color as the late
3

oil filter canister. The popular color is widely accepted to be the same as the
TF instrument panel. The paint supplied by Moss Motors is lighter than
original for the MGTD.

4
The color of the valve cover is controversial. Generally it is most widely
accepted to be the same as the wheels, a metallic gray. Other evidence
suggests that it is a pale green/gray non metallic as shown. This is the same
color that early TC engines and firewalls were painted. I like to use a metallic
soft green/gray paint which is a good compromise and believed by some to be
correct also. This is also an acceptable color for the Purolator filter canister
although it was a bit darker in shade. There was a tendency to coat the valve
color with clear paint, after repainting it silver, that often turned greenish. For
this reason many feel that it was never greenish to begin with, but just silver.
Al Moss (who serviced TD's when new) reports that the valve cover and
wheels were originally painted with plain silver paint, non glossy. Similar to the
finish you would get out of a spray can today.

If you would like to see an unrestored TF valve cover then press here. Care of
Don Harmer.
This is an Imron color and the metallic effect is much stronger than original.
5

Sheet Metal Finishes

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The following table describes the finishes on the sheet metal of the MGTD.

Item Color Comment

Both sides of these items were
Fenders, hood, front and rear
painted with the body color of the
splash aprons, running boards, Body
car. The exception would be the
firewall, fuel tank, fuel tank straps, Color
inside of the toolbox which was
door hinges
black covered by an off-white felt.
Note that the fuel tank side panels
Body had the edges chrome plated. Only
Fuel tank sides
Color the interior of the outside finish was
painted the body color.
Body color on exterior finishes,
black on inside finishes. Note that
the black paint was not glossy but a
Body bucket, doors, tool box lid Body semigloss or satin finish. Used as a
(outside) Color protective coating more than a
shiny finish like the color coat. Note
that on some cars the inside of the
panels were painted the body color.
Scuttle, side curtain box, steering
wheel column and steering wheel Black
extruder plate, propeller shaft
tunnel, gearbox cover and plate,
hinge for seat back, sleeve for
seat hinge, rear cross brace
assembly (behind seat), crank
clips on seat back, inside of
toolbox.
Headlamp bodies, headlamp ring Note that on early TD's (50 and 51)
Body
retaining screw, King of the Road the headlamp bodies were chrome
Color
medallion plated.

Engine and Transmission

Top

See the note on Gold Seal engines.

Item Color Comment

Engine block, head, tappet
Engine This color was similar to MG red
inspection cover, water outlet
Red but a little darker.
manifold, oil pan, timing chain
cover, cradle, bearer plate,
transmission housing and
cover, oil pump housing, main
pulley, water pump, water
branch pipe, throttle return
spring clip, front motor mount
bracket
Engine Some cars may have had this
Breather pipe and clamp
Red painted black.
Engine Some cars may have had this
Inlet manifold
Red painted black.
This is a spray of liquid aluminum
Exhaust manifold, manifold that gives the appearance of a
Aluminized
clamps white, softly textured surface.
Very hard to keep clean.
Some like to cad plate the nuts
Engine stabilizer and bracket Black and expander but they were all
black.
Light Gray-
Valve cover See comments above
Green
These were through away
elements. There is a decal that
Oil canister - old style Orange went on these parts. Cast
element housings were an add
on.
Oil canister - newer style 1952 A slightly darker color than the
(Tecalemit) Part number Bronze instrument cluster/steering wheel
I62451 center color.
Used on some later cars. Noted
by the large attaching bolt and
capped plate at rear of the filter.
Oil canister - newer style 1952 Light
They had no identifying plate as
(Purolator) Part number Silver-
on the Tecalemit filters, but were
I62429 Green
decorated with a decal naming
the company and listing the
maintenance procedures.
Air cleaner, starter, generator
Black
body, fan blades
This is a controversial item. Many
believe that this was painted the
same color as the engine but
Black or
Thermostat body, upper hose replacement parts were black.
Engine
elbow Others believe that it was
Red
assembled as a unit with the
radiator and therefore black. All
the pictures that I have are not
 clear on this as they are in
shadow.
Generator fan/pulley, distance Engine Most believe these to be red but
piece Red some claim they were black.
Some paint this the engine color.
Engine block drain, oil drain, Natural The ID plate should be left natural
engine ID plate Brass but on original cars the drains
were most likely painted red.
Many like to leave the brass ends
Engine
oil line - block to head natural. Most likey all red from
Red
factory.
Note that some of these parts
were blued and not painted black.
Carburetor parts: choke
Bluing is a metal treatment that
coupler, jet links, springs, Black
has a black, transparent type of
couplings, anchor clips
look to it. It is very common on
firearms.
Most carburetor parts (see
exceptions elsewhere), air
cleaner wing nut, transmission
dipstick cover wing nut,
Many like to polish these
carburetor overflow lines,
Natural unfinished parts for an enriched
generator lubricator,
look.
tachometer reduction gearbox,
crank handle, distributor body,
oil pressure gauge line and
brass coupling on firewall
Polishing these items makes for a
very nice effect but was not
originally done. If you do polish
these parts it is recommend that
Carburetors, fuel pump base Natural
you spray the carburetor body
sections Aluminium
with a clear sealer because it will
be impossible to keep the polish
up after the carburetor is
assembled.
Brass parts left natural. Again
Fuel pump and carburetor polishing and coating with a clear
Natural
fittings paint will preserve the shine of
these parts.
Exhaust pipe bracket, clamp
Black
and spacer on transmission
Gearbox remote linkage Natural

Chassis
Top

Item Color Comment

It appears that the green and red were the
same as the red and green body colors. If you
do not have a red or green car, and your
interior is not tan, then choose the MG Red or
Interior Almond Green as the grill color appropriately.
Radiator grill slats
Color The color that matched tan interior was a light
tan color. It is reported that on some red or
green cars with tan interiors, the grill slats
could be painted the body color.
Note See the comment on the Mark II's.
Frame, suspension
parts, rear end, Satin
Note most people prefer to use a high gloss
brake drums, brake (soft
paint for all the chassis parts in current
lines, springs, mat)
restorations because of its look and durability.
shocks and all Black
chassis parts.
It is not recommended to finish the radiator
fins with a heavy based enamel. Optionally
Satin
you may first paint the fins with a heat based
(soft
Radiator (exhaust type) flat black finish and then paint
mat)
the rest of the radiator with a high gloss finish.
Black
The original was painted with a very thin coat
of satin gloss black paint.
Satin
Some late TD's with Armstrong shocks were
(soft
Shock absorbers left unpainted for the body with the shock
mat)
arms painted black.
Black
Al Moss reports that the valve cover and
wheels were originally painted with plain silver
Wheels Silver
paint, non glossy. Similar to the finish you
would get out of a spray can today.
Most today paint the exhaust system with
Exhaust pipes,
modern heat paint. Originally painted with
exhaust pipe Black
chassis paint which undoubtedly burnt off in
brackets
days.

Woodwork
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Item Color Comment

Floorboards, shelf
Black Made of mahogany plywood.
behind seat
 Covered in interior Same material as seat backs
Dash
cloth (Rexine) and door panels
Battery box underliner Black Made of mahogany plywood.
Wooden panel behind
Black
fuel tank

Note: All woodwork with the exception of the firewall mounting frame was
painted black. This was often oversprayed when the body was painted.

Interior/Softgoods
Top

Item Color/Material Comment

Seat tops and
outside bottoms,
Died to match vinal cloth interior. Used
seat back face, Leather
where wear and tear would be a factor.
top of map pocket,
top of door piping
Slightly textured precursor to vinyl. Note
that the wheel wells were padded with a
thin felt. Also on some cars the wooden
area that the spare tire bolts go through
received some light padding.

There was a small length of black vinal

that was tacked to the wood floor behind
the seats that covered the ends of the
wheel wells. This material was folded
over at both edges to form a ¾ inch wide
strip. It started in the back corner and
All door panels, went forward over the edge. It then
kick panels, seat vinyl cloth turned the corner to the outside of the car
backs and rears, (Rexine) and terminated at the panel. It was
boot area affixed to a small tack strip. The tack strip
is held to the wheel well by three small
rivets.

Also to note that the piping from the rear

at the hood tack strip, down under the
doors and along the dash top, was all
one piece. This material was similar to
the piping used on the fenders. At the
location of the door strikers the piping
was opened up and the spline was
removed to allow clearance for the door
striker. The striker underplates had holes
 in them to allow for tacking the piping in
place. You will see a tacking hole in the
inner metal plate for the door latch to tack
the bead down.

On many cars the hidem that was used to

hide the tacks on the panels was in one
piece. This means that the panels were
put in place at one time as the hidem
continued from one panel to the next.
This is especially evident from the front
kick panel to the door sill panel.

The door panels, the panel under the

door, and the panel around the rear
wheel arch are a three ply plywood about
2-3 mm thick. The panel in front of the
doors is a about a 2 mm thick piece of
black cardboard so it will bend over the
"scuttle" hoop. Besides being tacked on
around the door, there are two small
chromed wood screws with finish
washers at the front to hold the front
panel on.

The hidem is one continuous piece from

the door latch to where the rear panel
and the panel below the door meet.
There is a short piece of hidem from the
door latch to the top of the front pannel.
The rear pannel's hidem is sewn on also,
but it is not contiuous with the hidem of
the two other panels. The trim panels are
long enough to go clear to bottom and
meet the main wood beam across the
bottom of the car.

The floor boards are cut slightly narrow

on the outside to allow room for the trim
panels.
There was a whole under the clock large
enough for a hand to fit through to allow
Black vinyl
Dash underpanel the clock to be reset. Panel was made of
(Rexine)
hard fiberboard (similar to cardboard and
the same material as the glovebox).
Brown flock like
Glovebox Interior Must have been sprayed on.
coating
Tonneau cover, Similar to light tent material. Side curtain
Tan canvas
top, side curtains windows were made of celluloid and
 yellowed immediately. Side curtain nuts
were painted tan.
White woolen
Toolbox
felt
Black woolen
Side curtain box
felt
Gear lever gaiter Leather Could either be black or interior color.
Steering column
Tan leather
excluder
Carpets were untrimmed. The carpet
under the seats was separate from the
carpet in front of the seats. There was no
carpeting behind the seats, over the rear
end. Under the arch of the seat back,
covering the emergency brake cables,
was a piece of cardboard covered by
carpet with the front edge bound in black
Black short hair leather (black Rexene is also
Carpets
wool acceptable). Under the drivers feet was
stiched a rubber mat. The drivers side on
LHD cars starting in the 1951 model year
had a rubber footwell with the MG crest.
This was sewn into the carpet through a
recess about halfway from the edge. On
some cars a leather patch was sewn onto
the transmission tunnel to prevent wear
from the accelerator foot.
Brightwork and Chrome
Top

Item Color Comment

Headlamp bodies, headlamp adjusting Note that on later TD's
nuts, headlamp rings, headlamp ring (late 51, 52 and 53) the
Chrome
retaining screw, King of the Road headlamp bodies were
medallion painted the body color.
Some cars have this
Headlamp bracket to radiator Chrome
body color or black
Zinc plating is often
Radiator hose clamps, air cleaner used as a substitute for
clamps, steering excluder clamp, Cadmium today. Some
Cadmium
headlamp bracket to radiator bracket headlamp bracket bolts
bolts and nuts may have been chromed
or painted body color.
Note that etched writing
or background on
nickeled items were
painted black. Plates
Oil cap, body plate, MG Car Co. plate, Nickel were made of brass.
patent plate Silver
Plates held in place with
brass round headed
slotted screws with
square nuts.
Some like to paint the
Polished
Air cleaner manifold background of the MG
Aluminium
Logo red or black.
Some like to paint the
Transmission dipstick, engine dipstick Chrome background of the MG
Logo red or black.
See note on hub cap
Hub caps Chrome
medallions
Hub cap medallions Polished Background painted red.
Radiator shell, nose Chrome
Only on late model Mark
Radiator slats Chrome
II's
Brown MG on cream
background. Late Mark
Radiator medallion Chrome
II's had black MG on
white background.
Fuel tank filler cap, bonnet hinge strip Polished Polished stainless steel
Fuel tank filler cap lever, tail light and Chrome
marker light screws, windscreen screws
and nuts
Splash pan x-screws and washers front
Chrome
and rear
Bumpers, overriders, door knobs, door
latches, side curtain clamps, side
curtain nuts in door tops, seat back
adjusters and brackets, fuel tank strap
nuts, side lamps, windscreen parts and
brackets, rear view mirror, tail lamp
rings and bodies, rear license plate Chrome
lamp cover, fuel tank side nuts and
washers, dashboard edging, glove box
hinges, bonnet handles, snaps and
studs, side curtain strips, emergency
brake handle and release button, gear
shift lever
Steering wheel medallion ring, horn
base, lamp bezels, gauge bezels, horn
push ring (early cars), starter and choke Chrome
knob bases, steering column
expandable cover
The inside of the fuel
tank sides were painted
Fuel tank sides Chrome the body color with
exposed edges in
chrome
Tach cable, speedo cable, choke cable,
starter cable, emergency brake cables,
clutch cable housings, water
temperature retainers on stabilizer rods,
bonnet latches (inside), seat runners, Cadmium
fuel lines (braided), wire harness
retainer straps on rear frame tube, lug
nuts, front wheel grease cap, starter
switch
Many like to use the
"MG Car Company"
threshold plates which
were not original to TD's
but to MGTA's. TD's had
Door threshold plates, running board plain threshold plates.
Polished
strips
The threshold plates
were held in place by
slotted flat headed
woodscrews. Some may
have been brass.
Miscellaneous
Top

Item Color Comment

While most of the car was painted in
pieces prior to assembly, there were
a few exceptions. In some cases
items were assembled and then
overpainted with a color coat while
Firewall bolts, wood frame Body
others had bolts and fasteners hand
and caulking Color
painted after assembly. The firewall
and body bucket were painted as an
assembly which meant that the
firewall bolts were painted the body
color.
Crank, tonneau bar, crank
clips, front license plate
brackets, front license plate
and clips, starter cable
Black Crank handle was brass
bracket on firewall, horns and
brackets, passenger foot
ramp, accelerator peddle
assembly, fuel pump body
Rear license plate brackets, Black Optionally can be color of body.
rear license plate lamp base
Side curtain frames, top
frame, side curtain nuts on Tan
frames
Spare tire carrier, head lamp
Body
brackets, hood latch screw
Color
heads
This was part of the chassis
assembly and got painted black.
Fuel line Black
Many today polish this with copper
polish for a nice effect.
Steering wheel center,
steering wheel cap, and Bronze
instrument panel
Fuel tank strap bolt heads Hand painted to match interior color.
Interior
and washers, side curtain Have also seen the side curtain
color
storage lid hinges storage lid hinges cad plated
Rear splash pan bolts and
washers, instrument panel Black
carriage bolts
Door checks, bonnet latch
Many have these chrome or cad
receivers on fenders, bonnet Black
plated as they scratch so easily
bumpers
May have been treated to look black
Water temperature tubing Black
rather than painted.
Black
Windscreen wiper motor
wrinkle
cover
paint
Windscreen "D" washer and Polished
locknut (under Acorn nut) Brass
Same type of finish found on
Grease gun body Blueing
firearms
Tools Black
Wiring Harness Black Black with two thread yellow tracer.

Nitty Details
The following items are the hardest to achieve for a person who is trying to
create an absolutely original car. In a Concours d'Elegance these would be
the items that could differentiate two winning cars. Some of these items will
most likely be impossible to achieve but they are interesting goals to pursue if
you want the ultimate in originality.
It may well be that there never was an original TD once it left the dealer
showroom/lot, especially in the United States. It appears that modifying the
car was one of the major features of the model. This is attested by all the
accessories that were available at the time from dealers and parts suppliers
such as Arnolt and others.

Note: To see a picture of the detail item in a seperate window click on the
icon.

Item Source
Engine number that
N/A
matches body plate
Make it yourself by taking the cord out of
Size of front splash apron
a piece of the piping that you used on the
piping (smaller diameter
rest of the body and replace it with a 1/4
than rest of exterior piping)
inch diameter cord
Exhaust pipe diameter
Original engine oil pan bolts
Original soft metal tappet
cover bolts
Original flat gray
windscreen wiper wire
Rubber rear license plate
Hardware store or automotive supply
lamp wire cover
Correct battery (series,
Abingdon Spares
Lucas, vented caps)
Cap style battery cable Moss Motors, Abingdon Spares, Rhode
connectors at battery Island Wiring Services
Black braided negative Rhode Island Wiring Services, The In-
battery and starter cables Point
Rubber starter switch (not
nylon) and rubber boots
Horn wire to battery cable
clip
Original spark plug wires
(plastic coated black cloth Check NOS at classic car parts shops
braided wire)
Original spark plug caps
(black bakelite)
Spark plug wire retainer at
distributor (red fiberboard)
Black painted bolts on valve N/A
cover
Original black coil Moss Motors
Correct dates (within a few
months prior to car date) on British Auto Electric
starter, generator, and coil
Braided and cloth covered
wires and loom, black Rhode Island Wiring Services, The In-
sheath with dual yellow Point
tracer
Correct (small diameter)
braided fuel lines
Wooden battery box liner Moss Motors, 407-710
Rubber pads between
Local hardware store
battery and battery clamp
Correct profile dashboard
attachment washers
Double slotted temperature
gauge conduit clips for Moss Motors
radiator stabilizer tubes
Radiator drain pipe
Appropriate front rebound
rubbers (short - late or tall -
early)
ID plates finished in nickel
Moss Motors 408-730, 408-740
silver
Oil cap finished in nickel
silver
The rubber cover may not be original.
Correct oil cap chain
Most people from the period have no
covered in rubber tubing
memory of it.
Etched 'Auster' windscreen
emblem
Correct nuts (fat) on
windscreen frame
Brass finished flat 'D'
washer and lock nut on
windscreen sideframe
(under Acorn nut)
Dunlop tires 5.50x15 British Wire Wheel
Andrex shock absorbers on
TD Mk II
Glass tail and side lamp
Moss Motors 157-908
lenses
Lucas "Anchor" quartz
iodine headlamps
Wide topped bumpers
No rubber packing on
N/A
bumper overriders
Front license plate with
correct 'Z' brackets to
bumper
While I do not know of a source for the
switch,Abingdon Spares, has a decal for
Original ignition switch with
the labels. It is part number 39/2D. You
correct labeling (not the
can also retain the original facia and knob
'window' variety)
and marry it to a replacement body and
switch.
Original tachometer and
speedometer cables
Original starter and choke
cables
Under dash cover in black
Abingdon Spares, Moss Motors 451-795
Rexine
Original interior materials
(Rexine)
Leather on map pocket tops
Moss Motors, Abingdon Spares
and door piping, seat tops
Correct number of pleats on
seat cushions (6) with wider Moss Motors, Abingdon Spares
borders
Correct holes on firewall
(there were some empties,
see manuals)
Original top/tonneau
materials
Original half tonneau cover Moss Motors, Abingdon Spares
Correct radiator hoses
(large hose pebble finish)
Correct (thin and textured)
radiator webbing strip
Tapered rubber packing
under headlamp arms to Abingdon Spares
fenders. Not straight sided.
Correct routing and copper
carburetor overflow lines This arcticle from Just Brits will show you
with clip on front engine how
plate
Original hose clamps
(radiator hoses, air cleaner, Moss Motors 326-388
steering column)
'Mickey Mouse' air cleaner
wing nut
I have not been happy with the
reproduction units as I feel the color is too
dark. If you have an old wheel you might
want to check with Kimble Engineering, in
the UK. They reportedly have the original
mold tooling for the steering wheel and
Original tan marbled
has them made in the original materials
steering wheel
(even in the original city).

Also note that I believe the centerpiece to

be darker than what is generally accepted
today. See finish details for more
information and the attached image.
Original steering wheel
Moss Motors 262-340
center piece
Plain door threshold plates
Original width running
board strips and rubber
Original Karvel unbound
Moss Motors, Abingdon Spares
carpeting
Original transmission
dipstick cover wing nut
Mahogany marine plywood
floorboards
Tan leather steering wheel
excluder at scuttle with Moss Motors 454-040
correct clamp
Sewn in rubber footwell
with MG logo
Painted interior color fuel
tank strap bolt heads and N/A
washers
Painted instrument faces
Vintage Restorations
rather than decals
Original flocked lined glove
Moss Motors 454-155
box
The In-Point and www.britishtool.com for
Original tools and tool case
reproductions
Original hand crank with
brass handle, clips on rear Moss Motors 386-150
of seat back
Original operation manual,
workshop manual, parts
catalog
Original dealer brochures
Original Factory
Accessories
Direction of and correct
type of bolts and nuts (see
N/A
manuals for guidance on
positions)

Note that depending on the Concours d'Elegance that you are attending,
accessories that were available during the production run of the MGTD may
or may not be acceptable. This varies from event to event, judge to judge.

Replacement Parts Reviews

We are greatly in debt to the many parts suppliers the world over who provide
replacement parts for the MG T-Series cars that we love. Sometimes new old
stock parts are still available but this is the exception. Many times an original
part can be repaired to function like new again. You might also find just the
part you need from a swapmeet, on-line auction, or a fellow enthusiast. When
these options don't provide you with the original part that you need, you must
resort to replacement parts.

Many times the replacement parts are exactly as original. In this manner one
could not tell the replacement part from a new original part. Unfortunately this
is not always the case. Many times a substitution from an original part is all
that is available. While I understand the business economics that creating an
exact original replacement may not always justify the cost, I do support any
vendor that goes out of their way to create as an original part as is possible.
To that end I have created this list of replacement parts that I am aware of
and how they compare to the original part they are attempting to replace.

Grading:

This grade is assigned to a part that

A is virtually identical to the original
part it is replacing.
This grade is for a part that looks
like a reasonable facsimile of the
original part but there are minor
B
differences that a reasonably
knowledgable enthusiast would
notice from the original
The assignment is for a part that
looks similar to the original part but
C
is clearly different upon immediate
inspection
This classification is assigned to a
part that functions in an equivalent
D
manner to the original but does not
look original at all.
This assignment is for a part that
does not function or look like the
F
original part that it is attempting to
replace.

Part Grade Number Vendor Comment

A good replacement for the original
Moss
Ignition Coil B+ 143-210 coil. My part was marked 9-48 for
Motors
the date and the bottom end did
 not match the rolled edge of the
original. It also did not sport the
Lucas name.
While I have not seen these parts
in person, the pictures do
represent a reasonable
Tools and The In- replacement of the original tools.
A-
Tool Roll Point The tool roll may not be completely
appropriate for the MGTD though. I
prefer their MGA tool rolls for later
TD's.
For later TD's (late 52 and 53), the
MGA Tool The In- MGA tool roll may be a better
A
Roll Point replacement than the Inpoints
standard TD/TC roll.
A great replacement for the original
Abingdon
Battery A battery even down to the ventilated
Spares
caps.
This battery had the same
dimensions and was made of
similar material but did not have
Moss
Battery C 459-400 the correct top, lugs, and was
Motors
embossed with the Moss Logo.
Use the Abingdon Spares battery
instead.
A good imitation for the handle but
they came with American nuts and
Hood Latch Moss
A- threads. You will need to rethread
Handles Motors
these for BSF and add your own
original nuts.
While similar to the original factory
rack there are three deviations.
One is the addition of a bar at the
top front that helps keep the
luggage from moving forward
Moss during hard stops. This was not on
Original style 244-500 Motors the original rack. A minor but
C
luggage rack 61 003A Abingdon noticeable deviation is the
Spares elimination of two small loops in
the rear bar that accommodated a
belt or strap for securing the
luggage. In addition the rack is
made from a much lighter material
than the original.
Steering This part is essentially
Moss
wheel center A 262-340 indistinguishable from the original.
Motors
and The only question comes from the
medallion color. It is finished in the widely
accepted lighter tan color.
A good replacement part that is
hard to tell from the original. May
Windscreen 735110 Abingdon want to have plated for a more
A
wiper arms 735111 Spares uniform look as some parts are
plated brass and others stainless
steel.
These bumpers are similar to the
original but not quite exact. Upon
closer inspection you would notice
that the profile on the original
bumper has a shelf on the top side
Moss or more projection. These
Front and
Motors replacement bumpers have the
Rear B
Abingdon same projection on the top as the
Bumpers
Spares bottom. Since it is almost
impossible to find a original
bumper in existence today I would
probably expect that in a few years
no one, including an expert, would
be able to notice.
These overriders generally appear
Moss
as original. I have noticed that they
Bumper Motors
A are a bit wider at the top than
Overrider Abingdon
original overriders but that may be
Spares
in tolerance with the original parts.
While this part is close to the
original they forgot one important
Rubber Moss aspect. The original footwell was
B
Footwell Motors sewn into the carpet through a
recess in the outer edge. This
version does not have the recess.
While the correct color the texture
Moss has a woven pattern to it rather
Toolbox Felt B 456-420
Motors than the traditional smooth felt like
texture.
While the correct color the texture
Abingdon has small waffle pattern to it rather
Toolbox Felt C ASL5798
Spares than the traditional smooth felt like
texture.
The original rheostat was replaced
by Lucas over 30 years ago with a
Dash Light Moss model that has an extended knob.
C 145-900
Rheostat Motors The original knob had a plain face
and was about ½ inch long. The
replacement is about 1 inch long
 and has an arrow on the face.
Moss Looks like an exact replacement
Socket Set A 142-800
Motors for the original dash plugs.
Much thicker than original and
different texture. The original was
Radiator Moss
B 280-010 very thin (approx. 1/16 inch) and
Webbing Motors
had a pebbled texture to the
webbing.
Similar to the originals at first
inspection. One thing to look out
for is to make sure that the
Windshield 408-230 Moss castings you receive are
A
L/R Uprights 408-240 Motors symetrical. Mine were not. Might
want to insist during the order that
they are the same or you will
charge them return shipping.

Plates, Etchings and Decals

If your TD, like most others, has been refinished a number of times some of
the little details may have been lost. In fact you may not even know they exist
unless you have compared your car to another. The details I refer to in this
section are found in the form of etchings and decals. These decals and
etchings were part of plates from the MG Car Company or their suppliers.
Some of these are available as replacement parts and offer good substitutes.
Many of these parts are not available or perhaps just need to be restored.

Within these pages I will describe these decals and etchings and provide a
digital image of the item so you can create your own or restore the etching on
your original part. I will also describe how you might go about the etching
process or where you could have this done. The items that I deal with in these
pages are:

• Original Air Cleaner Decal

• Auster windscreen builders plate
 • Desmo rear view mirror logo
• Chassis I.D. plate
• Body I.D. plate
• Patent number plate
• Sidescreen builders plate
• Tecalemit oil filter plate (late TD)
• Engine ID Plate
• Oil filler cap
• Gas filler cap lever
• Radiator builders plate
• Made in England plate
• MG Car Company threshold plates

Decals
Original Air Cleaner Decal

This decal was affixed to the top of the smooth topped air cleaners. Note the
image is not full size.

The Plate Details

Auster Windscreen Builders Plate

The Auster windscreen builders plate was attached to the bottom frame
member of the windscreen via two tiny round headed rivets. Make sure that
this plate is on the inside of the vehicle as many times you find it on the
outside of restored cars. This plate is unusual in that it is done in two colors.
Bright red for the Auster bracketed by black decorations to the sides.

This part is available from suppliers such as Moss Motors and Abingdon
Spares but they did not etch the part. Instead they just silk screened the
image onto a plate. If you want a more realistic copy then you will need to
etch the image into the plate.

Desmo Rear View Mirror Logo

The original over the dash review view mirror that was used on the MGTD
was supplied by Desmo. They included their logo on the back of the mirror
(towards the front of the car) at the top. The metal parts of the mirror where
plated chrome.

Chassis I.D. Plate

The chassis ID plate designates your car and engine numbers. There are at
least two different versions of this plate. Reproductions of this plate only
support the early version and do not have the 2 on the TD/ that later cars had.
You may need to add this etching to a reproduction plate. These plates were
nickel and filled with black paint.

Body I.D. Plate

The body plate contained the body type and body number stamped into the
surface. The plate itself was plated in nickel with filled letters in black. These
can be obtained commercially.

Patent Number Plate

This plate was a little different in that it had a painted background (black) with
raised patent numbers. The plate was done in nickel. You can obtain these
commercially.

Sidescreen Builders Plate

This plate was attached to the right hand door's sidescreen at the top cross
member. It sported a black background with natural raised lettering.

Tecalemit Oil Filter Plate

This plate was affixed to all Tecalemit filters (late TD's) and was photo etched.
I do not have an easy way to restore this plate.

Engine ID Plate

Octagonal plate with inner circle ring. Raised letters riveted to the engine
block. Includes stamped engine number that is match on the chassis ID plate.
Oil filler Cap

Etched around the oil cap filler were popular brands (recommended by the
factory?) of oil. This part was nickel plated with etched and black painted
letters.

Gas filler Cap Lever

This one may have been stamped on but an etching may be a good facsimile
just in case. Not painted to my knowledge but you could if you wanted more
contrast. Most have this chrome plated.

Radiator Builders Plate

Found on the upper right corner of the radiator core on the engine side.
Painted with the core but you could treat it in brass and paint for an enhanced
effect. Each plate carried a stamped serial number.

Another plate found on the tank top generally on the right hand side. These
plates were soldered to the tank and painted black overall.
Note: These plates may be available in limited quantities. Please contact Jim
Threadgill for more information.

Made in England Plate

This plate was put on some export cars. It was found on the left end of the
tool box just below the band that the clasp is attached to. The plate was made
of brass and etched with the MG logo in front with the words MADE IN
ENGLAND along side it to the right. Not all export cars seem to posses this
plate. Certainly if you do not have two little holes on the left end of your
toolbox you probably are not a candidate. Finished in nickel and black paint.

MG Car Company Threshold Plates

OK. These are not original for TD's (MG TA's?) but everybody has them.
These were not plated but were natural aluminium that was polished and filled
with black paint.

Restoring Etchings
To restore or create a reproduction you have to go through a few steps. First
you must obtain an image of the original. This page should help you in that
regard. Secondly you will need to create a mask and then etch the item. After
this process you may need to have the item plated depending on it's original
finish. And finally you will have to fill in the etching with paint to make it stand
out (or conversely fill in the background). A few etchings were really a photo
chemical coloration and are not really painted on (ex: Tecalemit oil filter plate).
This article does not cover that process.

Etching

Etching is the process of removing a specified amount of material from an

object by using acid or some sort of abrasive. Etching is generally done via
some sort of mask either directly with an acid or using the mask to
photochemically treat the material first. In the case of the MGTD many of the
etchings were done over brass but other metals were used also. A very
popular use of etching is in the creation of printed circuit boards. In fact you
may find that process most useful to you. You can find a brief overview of the
etching process at this site.
Warning: Anyone considering doing their own etching should realize that it is
a fairly difficult and dangerous process and your results will not be
guaranteed. I would suggest that you consider sending your part and mask
template (image) to a professional when etching is required. If you do decide
to try your own hand at etching you should experiment on like materials as the
part you will be ultimately using. Also I do not recommend trying to deepen or
re-etch existing parts, at least not by a layman.

To restore etched parts requires a few basic steps. First you must thoroughly
clean all of the parts to be treated. This includes removing any existing paint
and/or plating. Plating will generally have to be removed at a plating shop.

You will need some sort of mask that will indicate where the etching
should/should not take place. One these pages I will attempt to provide you
with images that you can use to generate your own etching masks from your
computer printer. Generally the best way to mask your part is to create the
mask with your computer. If you have a laser printer you can generate your
mask directly otherwise you will have to first print your mask and then transfer
the image to the mask material with a Xerographic copy machine. You can
find photo generated mask material and instructions to make the mask here.

Once the parts have been stripped and cleaned you can begin the etching
process. Follow the instructions with your etching materials and mask. Be
sure to take all the environmental and personal protection precautions
because acid is very dangerous to you and the environment. See cautions
above.

Resources for Etching

• Photographic mask materials

• Etching process overview
• Etching Machinery & Supplies in the UK
• Etching resource for making plates etc.
• Brass name plate producer
• An example of etching brass from the model railroad hobby
• Nickel stripping and etching solutions

Plating

Most of the ID plates on the MGTD were nickel plated. Nickel differs from
chrome plating in that chrome plating is usually done in three layers. The first
being a layer of brass which provides a smooth uniform surface that can also
be lightly polished if needed between the first and second platting. The next
layer is nickel which gives it the silver look. Nickel has sort of a yellowish tinge
to it. Nickel can oxidize like any silver and can turn dark yellow and even gray
or black. It needs to be polished frequently to retain it's shine. Finally in
chrome plating the third layer is actually the chromium. This is applied in a
very thin, almost transparent layer. Its' main function is to protect the nickel
from abrasion and tarnishing. It also gives chrome plating that characteristic
bluish look.
To properly plate your etched parts just have them nickel plated, straight over
the existing brass. Be careful that you do not have the plate overly polished
first otherwise you may remove some of the etching and/or your plate will look
to shiny and be confused with chrome plating, at least until it starts to tarnish.

Painting

Most of the etched parts were painted after the plating process. Some may
have been silk screened or photo etched as reported above. For those plates
that were painted here is how you can replace the paint.

First it is important to realize that in some cases the paint provided a contrast
for the letters and was actually used as a filler. In other cases the paint
actually provided a dark background for the letters to rise above the
background and stand out. In either case the principal is the same. You will
need to put paint in the recessed or etched areas and leave the non etched
areas to rise above for contrast.

Start by making sure your plated etching is free from all grease and oil. Use a
good grade of commercial painting pre cleaner or alcohol to clean the surface.
Next obtain the correct color of paint, black in most cases, in a lacquer base.
Lacquer based paints work best because they are easier to work with after the
paint has cured. Do not use a primer! You will need to spray the entire area of
the plate. A good tool for this would be an artist or hobby airbrush. Build up a
good deal of paint because the next process will remove most of it.

You will have to experiment a little from this point but the good news is that
you can do this over and over again without hurting anything or seriously
having to redo much work. The object at this point is to remove all the paint on
the surface of the etching while still retaining the paint within the recesses.
This will be easy to do on those plates where the etchings make up the text
and figures. On the plates where the paint constitutes the body or
background, this may be a little tougher.

There are many techniques to remove the unwanted paint from your etchings.
Each has it's own benefits and detriments. You might find one useful for one
type of plate but totally inappropriate for another. Try them as you see fit.

Removing Paint with Solvent

The easiest way to remove paint is through the use of a solvent. If you have
used a lacquer type of paint then lacquer thinner is what you will use. Other
types of paints may need another type of solvent. Use the solvent sparingly
and remove as much of the paint on the larger areas as you can. For tools I
like to use smooth cotton such as bed sheets wrapped in a mandrel or rod. I
soak the cloth and then wrap it tightly around the rod. Then I carefully wipe
this across the surface, removing a little paint each time. After each pass I
would recommend you use a new piece of cloth or an unused portion of you
cloth. Stop just sort of removing all the paint when you can see the raised
portion coming through. At this point you will follow up with the polishing
technique described below.

You can also use cotton swabs to carefully remove paint in stubborn areas. If
you make a mistake and remove too much paint let the part dry for a while
and then recoat again. You can concentrate your touch-up in those difficult
areas and work it until you get the look you want.

Removing Paint with Polish

This technique is much slower than the solvent method but is less deliberate
in the removal of the paint. Start with a hard surface such as a 12 inch square
plate of glass or metal. It must be perfectly flat and smooth. Cover it with a
piece of smooth cotton. You can experiment with bed sheets or cotton T-
shirts. Make sure there are no wrinkles or creases.

Using a fine hand polishing compound invert the plated piece and rub it over
the hard surface covered with cloth. You will need to inspect the part many
times during the operation to make sure you are only removing the paint that
you need to. Press down firmly but evenly while rubbing. You may need to
replace the cloth and/or add compound frequently as needed.

When you get to a point that you can just see the image coming through you
should switch to a car cleaner wax or a lighter compound. You may also use
finer tools such as cotton swabs or your fingered covered in cloth to work
smaller areas. Once you have removed all the unwanted paint then buff with a
clean cloth. You may optionally coat your parts with clear to keep the nickel
from tarnishing and to protect your painted areas from wear.

Engine Fasteners
Here is a list list of MGTD engine fasteners. The list includes original part
numbers and replacement part numbers from Abingdon Spares and Moss
Motors. Also included is a table of torque values for specified fasteners. This
list was compiled by Dave DuBois, Stuart Lock and TA Terry.

Bolts
LENGTH WRENCH ORIGINAL ABINGDON MOSS
SIZE DESCRIPTION/USE QTY
(INCH) SIZE P/N P/N P/N
CAMSHAFT
THRUST
5- PLATECAMSHAFT
320-
0.80MM6 5/8 2BA3/16W THRUST PLATE 2 AAA2356 5 - 84
130
- 1MM BOLT ACTUALLY
FOUND IN 2
ENGINES
5 - 0.75 1 9/16 1/8 W FAN TO PULLEY 4 AAA5213 7 - 23 320-
Mm 120
UPPER REAR 320-
6 - 1MM ½ 3/16W 3 AAA6142 3 - 12
MAIN SEAL 130
ROCKER COVER 320-
6 - 1MM ½ 3/16W 3 AAA6142 3 - 12
SIDE BOSSES 130
OIL PICKUP TO
6 - 1MM 5/8 3/16W 2 JA5117 3 - 169
BAFFLE
6 - 1MM 5/8 3/16W BAFFLE TO SUMP 4 JA5117 3 - 173
OIL PICKUP
6 - 1MM 5/8 3/16W 1 HP0405 3 - 167
COVER (LATE TD)
OIL PICKUP TO
320-
6 - 1MM 1 ½ 3/16W SUMP, DRILLED 2 ASL5853 3 - 161
150
FOR SAFETY WIRE
TIMING CHAIN
TENSIONER, 320-
6 - 1MM 1 ½ 3/16W 2 AAA5792 5-8
DRILLED FOR 150
SAFETY WIRE
OIL PUMP TO
BLOCK (EARLY 4 320-
6 - 1MM 2 5/8 3/16W AAA5586 3 - 99
TD) 2 160
(LATE TD)
OIL PUMP TO
BLOCK, DRILLED
2 320-
6 - 1MM 3 5/16 3/16W FOR SAFETY WIRE AAA5586 3 - 99
4 160
(EARLY TD)
(LATE TD)
OIL PUMP TO
320-
6 - 1MM 3 ½ 3/16W BLOCK, DRILLED 2 AAA3093 3 - 97
170
FOR SAFETY WIRE
OIL GALLERY 328-
8 - 1MM ½ 3/16W 5 X22968 3-8
PLUGS 100
FRONT BEARING 320-
8 - 1MM 5/8 3/16W 2 AAA5343 3 - 40
PLATE TO BLOCK 260
TIMING CHAIN
320-
8 - 1MM 5/8 3/16W COVER TO FRONT 2 X15012 3 - 39
260
BEARING PLATE
CAM BEARING
DOWEL BOLTS ( 320-
8 - 1MM 5/8 3/16W 2 AAA5621 5 - 44
DRILLED FOR 900
SAFETY WIRE)
CLUTCH TO 321-
8 - 1MM 3/4 1/4W 6 AAA5609 13 - 47
FLYWHEEL 028
ENGINE MOUNT 320-
8 - 1MM 3/4 1/4W 4 ASL5829 3 - 42
CRADLE TO 260
 FRONT BEARING
PLATE
GENERATOR 320-
8 - 1MM 3/4 1/4W 1 X15012 3 - 149
ADJUSTING LINK 260
GENERATOR
MOUNTING 320-
8 - 1MM 3/4 1/4W 2 CA1122 3 - 146
BRACKET TO 260
BLOCK
CLUTCH CABLE
320-
8 - 1MM 3/4 1/4W BRACKET TO 2 CA1122 13 - 31
260
SUMP (EARLY TD)
OIL FILTER
SUPPORT 320-
8 - 1MM 3/4 1/4W 3 CA1122 USE 3 - 39
BRACKET (EARLY 260
TD)
TIMING CHAIN
COVER TO FRONT
BEARER PLATE (2 320-
8 - 1MM 3/4 1/4W 2 CA1122 3 - 39
BOLTS FROM 260
REAR OF BEARER
PLATE)
WATER OUTLET
320-
8 - 1MM 7/8 1/4W ELBOW TO HEAD 4 CA1258 3 - 132
270
(TD)
AIR CLEANER
320-
8 - 1MM 7/8 1/4W ELBOW TO 4 CA1258 3 - 62A
270
CARBURETOR
WATER PUMP 320-
8 - 1MM 7/8 1/4W 1 CA1258 7 - 27
(SHORT BOLT) 270
SUMP TO BLOCK 320-
8 - 1MM 7/8 3/16W 10 LA7431 3 - 74
(CENTER BOLTS) 270
SUMP TO TIMING
320-
8 - 1MM 7/8 3/16W CHAIN COVER 2 AAA5340 3 - 73
265
(DEEP HEAD)
WATER PUMP 320-
8 - 1MM 1 1/4W 1 JA5052 7 - 28
(LONG BOLT) 625
REAR PLATE TO
323-
8 - 1MM 1 * HEAD (* SCREW 4 3 - 50
180
HEAD)
BELL HOUSING TO 321-
8 - 1MM 1 1/4W 10 JA5052 3 - 58
ENGINE 048
BOTTOM
320-
8 - 1MM 1 1/4W GENERATOR 2 X22853 3 - 153/157
625
MOUNTING
8 - 1MM 1 1/8 3/16W SUMP TO BLOCK 2 AAA5341 3 - 75 320-
 (DEEP HEAD 615
SLOTTED - REAR 2
BOLTS)
GUDGEON PIN
CLAMP BOLTS 320-
8 - 1MM 1 1/4 13MM 4 CA1009 5 - 17
(ORIGINAL BOLTS 890
HAD 1/4W HEADS)
TIMING CHAIN
320-
8 - 1MM 1 7/8 1/4W COVER TO 3 AAA5286 3 - 36
300
ENGINE
TIMING CHAIN
COVER TO 320-
8 - 1MM 2 1/4W 2 AAA5231 3 - 35
ENGINE (2 LOWER 310
BOLTS)
ROD BIG END
BOLTS (WITH
320-
8 - 1MM 2 1/4 13MM1/4W SELF LOCKING 8 AEF123 5 - 15
880
NUTS) (DRILLED
FOR COTTER PIN)
320-
8 - 1MM 3 5/16 1/4W ROCKER TOWER 4 AAA5670 5 - 57
330
10 - CARBURETOR TO 320-
3/4 5/16W 4
1.5MM MANIFOLD 510
FLYWHEEL TO
10 - CRANKSHAFT, 321-
7/8 3/8W 4 AAA5609 13 - 61
1.5MM DRILLED FOR 108
SAFETY WIRE
10 - STARTER TO 320-
1 5/16W 2
1.5MM BLOCK 510
10 - 320-
3½ 5/16W ROCKER TOWER 4 AAA5692 5 - 58
1.5MM 530
CRANKSHAFT
PULLEY
12 - 433-
7/8 5/8W BOLT/STARTING 1 AAA5279 5 - 30
1.5MM 450
DOG (CAN USE 1
1/8 SAE WRENCH)
TIMING GEAR TO
CAMSHAFT (SOME
12 - 320-
1 3/8W19MM BOLTS COME 1 AAA5788 5 - 35
1.5MM 670
WITH THIS
LARGER HEAD)
ENGINE
BREATHER PIPE
1/4 - 26 USE 23 - 320-
1 1/4 3/16W CLAMP BOLT 1 CA1263
BSF 125 200
(SOME OF THESE
MAY BE 6 - 1MM)
 DISTRIBUTOR
1/4 - 20
1 3/8 1/4W CLAMP PINCH 1
W
BOLT (EARLY TD)
CLUTCH RETURN
5/16 -22 320-
3/4 1/4W SPRING BRACKET 1 AJG6255Z 13 - 22
BSF 360
TO SUMP
AIR CLEANER TO
5/16 -22 320-
3/4 1/4W CARBURETOR (TD 4 23-185
BSF 360
MKII)
TOP GENERATOR
5/16 - 18 MOUNTING BOLT 322-
5/8 1/4W 1 3H2092 3 - 151
W (5/16 - 18 SAE 510
BOLT FITS)
3/8 - 20 OIL FILTER
4½ 5/16W 1 300852 3 - 197
BSF HOUSING

Studs
LENGTH ORIGINAL ABINGDON MOSS
SIZE WRENCHSIZE DESCRIPTION/USE QTY
(INCH) P/N P/N P/N
6- TAPPET COVER
1 7/8 N/A 3 AAA5595 3 - 16
1MM STUDS
WATER OUTLET
8- ELBOW TO 328-
1 1/4 N/A 2 CB1717 3-31
1MM THERMOSTAT 730
HOUSING STUD
8- LONG WATER 328-
1 7/8 N/A 1 X20167 3 - 30
1MM PUMP STUD 750
8- SHORT WATER 328-
1 3/4 N/A 1 JB5969 3-31
1MM PUMP STUD 750
8- MANIFOLD TO 328-
4 N/A 4 AAA5773 3 - 47
1MM HEAD 760
8- ROCKER COVER 328-
5 1/4 N/A 2 AAA5552 3 - 46
1MM STUDS 770
CARBURETOR TO
10 - 328-
2 N/A MANIFOLD STUDS 4 QA11791 3 - 121
1.5MM 810
(TD MKII)
EXHAUST FLANGE
10 - 328-
1 1/2 N/A TO MANIFOLD 3 X15126 3 - 62A
1.5MM 808
STUDS
10 - HEAD TO BLOCK 328-
4 3/8 N/A 10 AAA5512 3 - 13
1.5MM STUDS 780
12 - MAIN BEARING 328-
3 1/8 N/A 6 LA7104 5 - 85
1.5MM CAP TO BLOCK 830
 STUDS

Plugs
LENGTH WRENCH ORIGINAL ABINGDON MOSS
SIZE DESCRIPTION/USE QTY
(INCH) SIZE P/N P/N P/N
10 - CENTER OIL
N/A 3/15W 1 X20247 3-9
1.5MM GALLERY PLUG
FRONT OIL
12 - GALLERY PLUG 328-
5/16 * 1 X22732 65 - 57
1.5MM (*SCREW HEAD, 020
STEEL)
REAR OIL
12 - GALLERY PLUG 328-
9/16 * 1 X15393 65 - 57
1.5MM (*SCREW HEAD, 030
BRASS)
12 - OIL PUMP BODY
N/A 5/16W 1 163138 3 - 212
1.5MM PLUG (LATE TD)
12 -
N/A 5/16W OIL PUMP COVER 2 10798 3 - 215
1.5MM
12 - SUMP OIL PICKUP
N/A 5/16W 1 10798 3 - 215
1.5MM PORT PLUG
RELIEF VALVE
21 -
N/A 9/16W CAP (CAN USE 1" 1 AAA5628 3 - 111
1MM
SAE WRENCH)
½-14 SUMP OIL DRAIN 328-
N/A 1/2W 1 AAA2599 3 - 68
BSP PLUG 120

Nuts
LENGTH WRENCH ORIGINAL ABINGDON MOSS
SIZE DESCRIPTION/USE QTY
(INCH) SIZE P/N P/N P/N
8- WATER PUMP 311-
N/A 1/4W 2 CA1126 3 - 51
1MM STUD NUT 100
WATER OUTLET
8- ELBOW TO 311-
N/A 1/4W 2 CA1126 USE 3-51
1MM THERMOSTAT 100
HOUSING STUD
FRONT ENGINE
8- MOUNT CRADLE 311-
N/A 1/4W 4 CA1126 3 - 43
1MM TO FRONT 100
BEARING PLATE
8- N/A 1/4W MANIFOLD CLAMP 4 CA1126 3 - 66 311-
1MM NUT 100
ROD BIG END CAP
BOLT NUT (ORIG.
8- CASTELLATED 311-
NA 1/4W13MM 8 AEF131 5 - 16
1MM FOR COTTER PIN) 080
( SELF LOCKING
TYPE)
10 - 311-
N/A 5/16W HEAD STUD NUT 10 AAA5208 3 - 56
1.5MM 200
EXHAUST FLANGE
10 - 311-
N/A 5/16W TO MANIFOLD NUT 3 CA1605 3 - 63
1.5MM 200
(BRASS)
MAIN BEARING
12 - CAP STUD NUT 311-
N/A 7/16W 6 AEF199 5-5
1.5MM (CASTELLATED 270
FOR COTTER PIN)
ENGINE
1/4 - BREATHER PIPE
USE 23 - 311-
26 N/A 3/16 CLAMP BOLT NUT 1 CA1254
425 050
BSF (SOME OF THESE
MAY BE 6 - 1MM)
DISTRIBUTOR
1/4-26 311-
N/A 3/16W COTTER BOLT 1 CA1254
BSF 050
NUT (LATE TD)
DISTRIBUTOR
1/4 - CLAMP PINCH
N/A 1/4W 1
20 W BOLT NUT (EARLY
TD)
CLUTCH LINKAGE
3/8 -
FULCRUM PIN NUT 311-
20 N/A 5/16W 2 AAA5802 13 - 26
(CASTELLATED 240
BSF
FOR COTTER PIN)

Miscellaneous
LENGTH WRENCH ORIGINAL ABINGDON MOSS
SIZE DESCRIPTION/USE QTY
(INCH) SIZE P/N P/N P/N
BYPASS ELBOW
TO THERMOSTAT
HOUSING 323-
2BA 3/4 * 2 AJD320 7-66
(*SLOTTED 040
CHEESE HEAD
SCREW)
8- DISTRIBUTOR 433-
7/8 1/4W 1 AAA5212 35 - 93
1MM LOCK BOLT 530
 (EARLY TD)
1/4- DISTRIBUTOR
433-
26 N/A N/A COTTER BOLT 1 AAA2776 35 - 90
540
BSF (LATE TD)
3/8-
CLUTCH LINKAGE 190-
20 N/A N/A 2 X23049 13 - 27
FULCRUM PIN 390
BSF
1/8 BLOCK WATER 434-
N/A 3/16W 1 3H2724 3 - 14
BSP DRAIN TAP 240
OIL PIPE BLOCK 435-
1/8 TO HEAD BANJO X21021 3 - 115A 465
1 5/16W 2
BSP BOLT (EARLY TD) AAA5550 3 - 115 435-
(LATE TD) 490
FILTER TO BLOCK
1/4 435-
1 1/8 1/2W OIL PIPE (EARLY 3 X19089 3 - 86
BSP 480
TD)

Torque Values for XPAG Engines

Engine

Description Torque
GUDGEON PIN CLAMP BOLT 25 LBFT
ROD BIG END BOLTS 25 LBFT
MAIN BEARING CAP NUTS 63 LBFT
FLYWHEEL TO CRANKSHAFT BOLTS 50 LBFT
CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS 19 LBFT
OIL PICKUP PIPE TO SUMP BOLTS 6 LBFT
CAMSHAFT LOCATING PLATE BOLTS 6 LBFT
CAMSHAFT SPROCKET BOLT 50 LBFT
TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER BOLTS 6 LBFT
SUMP TO BLOCK BOLTS 19 LBFT
TIMING CHAIN COVER BOLTS 19 LBFT
CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT 50 LBFT
CYLINDER HEAD NUTS 50 LBFT
ROCKER TOWER BOLTS (8 MM) 16 LBFT
ROCKER TOWER BOLTS (10 MM) 43 LBFT
OIL PUMP TO BLOCK BOLTS 6 LBFT

Other
 Description Torque
WATER PUMP PULLEY NUT 10 LBFT
GENERATOR PULLEY NUT 35 LBFT
TRANSMISSION OUTPUT FLANGE NUT 65 LBFT
REAR AXEL HUB NUT 170 - 200 LBFT
FRONT AXEL HUB NUT 40 - 70 LBFT
WHEEL LUG NUTS 50 LBFT

Lucas Spotlight Codes

• SFT 576 S stands for spigot fixing, found on chrome lamps.
• FT indicates flat topped beam, which I would guess equates to fog
lamp.
• 576 indicates a 5.76in reflector.
• SLR S equals spigot fixing again.
• LR indicates long range.
• CFT or CLR indicates it was designed for a commercial vehicle, and
originally had a black body.