1

Apollo the Octopus, like most Projectarian as you go. They are not crocheted separately
patterns, is a life-sized snuggle buddy! With and cannot be attached after the tentacles are
long, floppy tentacles he naturally poses like complete. This pattern contains instructions
a real octopus. He has happy, shining eyes for making Apollo with or without his suckers,
and enough suckers on his tentacles to make depending on how much time you’d like to
you feel like you’ve accomplished something spend on your gigantic new friend.
great by the end of this project!
Each sucker will leave you with only one
This floppy friend is a large amigurumi with thread to sew in once the sucker is complete.
lots of repetitive parts, making him a slow Working reasonably fast without much
and steady project, similar to crocheting an interruption should allow you to make one
afghan. This also makes him a therapeutic tentacle in a day, complete with suckers and
project to relax and zone out with while the ends woven in. Use this information to
travelling in the car, bingeing on your gauge the time it will take you personally and
favourite series, or watching the kids’ soccer how long you’d like to dedicate to this project.
game.
Enjoy the pattern!
His suckers are crocheted onto his tentacles
- Jessie 2
Written in US terminology The instructions for all of the skills listed
Size: 20cm body height x 1.5m tentacle span below can be found in the Amigurumi Tips
Difficulty: Intermediate booklet included with this pattern.
Yarn weight A: double knit (Light
Worsted/8ply/11wpi) - Working in the round (in a spiral)
Yarn weight B: 4ply (Fingering/14wpi) - Accurately counting stitches and rows
- Using stitch markers and running stitch
markers
Hi, I’m Apollo! - Basic sewing
- Invisible decrease
- Changing colours
I’ll be popping in
to give you tips
throughout the If you need help with the pattern, visit our
pattern. friendly group of pattern testers and helpful
members on Facebook.

3
SC-decr
Body Colour (DK): 340g/710m
Use an invisible decrease
Sucker Colour (DK): 200g/415m
Belly Colour (DK): 150g/390m
SC-incr
Eye Black (4ply): 1g/4m
Work 2 SC into the same space
Eye White (4ply): 1g/4m
Eye Colour, Dark (4ply): 5g/20m
DC-incr
Eye Colour, Medium (4ply): 1g/4m
Work 2 DC into the same space
Eye Colour, Light (4ply): 1g/4m

Body Colour: Miss La Motte DK merino

R - row/round
wool – Colour of the Universe
SS - slip stitch
Sucker Colour: Miss La Motte DK merino
SC - single crochet
wool – Candyfloss
HDC - half double crochet
Belly Colour: Elle Pure Gold DK acrylic -
DC - double crochet
Vanilla
ch - chain
Eye Black: Blue Label 4 ply acrylic - Black
st - stitch
Eye White: Blue Label 4 ply acrylic -
incr - increase
White
decr - decrease
Eye Colour, Dark: Blue Label 4 ply acrylic
* - section to be repeated
- Yellow
rem - remaining
Eye Colour, Medium: Blue Label 4 ply
tog - together
acrylic - Lemon
sk - skip
Eye Colour, Light: Elle Babykins 4 ply
FLO - front loop only
acrylic – Ducky
BLO - back loop only
WS - wrong side
RS - right side
YO - yarn over Using durable
MR - magic ring
fibres like
RSM – running stitch marker
merino wool
This pattern calls for 4ply yarn to be used on produces an
the eyes. If necessary, this can be heirloom-quality
substituted with DK yarn, so long as it is on toy.
the thinner side – at least thinner than the
body’s yarn.

4
 *You will need at least 26 stitch markers for
this pattern, with all 26 in use at one time. If
To make a realistic eye, use realistic colours. you don’t have enough, you can mark
Make the pupils black, and use white for the stitches by tying a contrasting coloured
light reflections. thread to the stitch when instructed to mark
a particular stitch. Make sure these threads
For the coloured part of the eye, use 3 shades are tied with a secure knot as yarn knots tend
of the exact same hue to produce believable to wiggle loose while handling your
shading. For example, if you use a yellowish workpiece. Tie knots securely enough that
green, make sure not to combine it with bluish they have to be cut to be removed.
greens, but stick with yellowish greens.

TIP: Apollo’s eye design lends itself best to

light colours. Pick a lightish colour to use
for the ‘dark’ shade, then pick 2 even Running stitch
lighter shades to combine with it. markers should
never be
The stuffing will be visible through the stitches secured with a
on Apollo’s tentacles. You might consider
knot as they are
avoiding dark colours if you prefer the stuffing
designed to be
to be less noticeable. If you use dark colours,
it might be helpful to use one hook size easily removed.
smaller for the Belly Colour and Body Colour
to minimize holes between the stitches.

This pattern has not been tested with smaller

hooks, but has been tested successfully using
worsted weight yarn in place of double knit
weight.

Literal thicknesses of yarn used in this EYES

pattern: Using 4ply yarn and 2 mm hook
DK Body Colour - 2.08g/m 7 SC x 7 rows = 2.5 x 2.5 cm swatch
DK Belly Colour - 2.58g/m
4 ply - 3.92 g/m TENTACLES
Using DK yarn and 4 mm hook
8 DC x 4 rows = 5 x 5 cm swatch

Apollo’s tentacles are worked with DC

• 5 mm hook (body and belly) stitches. Although the stuffing will show
• 4 mm hook (tentacles and eyelids) through the holes between the stitches,
• 2 mm hook (eyes and suckers) achieving the correct tension will
• 1.5 mm hook (light reflection in eyes) minimize the size of these holes.
• Scissors
• Yarn sewing needle
• Soft, springy stuffing – approx 250g
• Pins with large head
• Stitch markers X 26*
5
Chains and slip stitches do not count as
On body parts that start with a magic
stitches. Do not include these when
ring, weave in your starting thread to
counting your stitches and do not work
secure it after working the first few
into them unless specifically indicated.
rounds.

When directed to tie off, cut the yarn to This toy has not been tested for safety. It is
the desired length and then simply pull not suitable for babies or young children.
the loose end through your current Tentacles are a strangulation hazard.
stitch. Do not chain 1 first, to avoid
making a knot.

On some parts you will be directed to This design is protected by universal

chain and tie off where a knot is copyright law. The pattern is not available
required. for free. You may not share this document
or any part of it by any means whatsoever.
Redistribution in any form is strictly
prohibited. Reproduction by filming is
prohibited. Language translations of this
When directed to ‘join with a SS,’ simply draw
pattern are prohibited. You may not claim
up a loop of yarn at the indicated stitch. Do
any part of this design as your own under
not chain or use a knot unless indicated.
any conditions. You may sell the finished
items you have made from this pattern.
When directed to work over a loose end after
Using Projectarian’s images for your own
joining new yarn, work over it for about 3
marketing purposes is prohibited. Selling
stitches. This will secure the thread
yarn kits for this pattern is prohibited
sufficiently without causing a visible bump at
without express consent from the
the join.
designer. Remember, there is always a real
person behind the art!

When you finish sewing a piece, don’t tie a

knot, but weave the loose end in and out of
the body and its stitches in the area near
where you finished sewing until the end is well
secured. Then cut it close to the body so it
pulls back inside. Be careful not to distort the
body when weaving in ends. Let’s get started!

6
Use a 4mm hook Do not tie off.
Make 8
Finished size: 77cm long Remove loop from hook. Place a stitch marker
on the loop to prevent it unravelling.

Before you begin,

decide whether
your octopus is
going to have
suckers.

R1: Using Body Colour, 6SC in magic ring. SS in

1st SC. (6)

R2: Ch1. *SC-incr* X 6. SS in 1st SC. (12) 7

R3: Join Belly Colour with a SS at 1st SC of R2.
Ch2, DC in same st. Working over the loose
Use your stitch markers to help
end as you go, 4DC. Leave rem sts un-worked. count your rows faster when you
(5) make the next 7 tentacles! 5 batches
of 12 rows gives you 60 rows,
therefore, once you have 5 markers,
you’ll know you’ve reached the 60th
row of Belly Colour, and you only
have 1 more row to work before
tying off. Ensure that stitch markers
Chains do not count as stitches. are correctly placed initially.
In the following instructions you will be
directed to work 60 more rows of Belly Colour
(61 in total). As you go, mark every 12th row
with a stitch marker, placed on the side edge
of your workpiece. This will help you count
rows quickly and assist with placing the
suckers later. By the end of this section you
will have 5 stitch markers in the Belly
Coloured piece as illustrated.

R4-63: Ch2, turn. 5DC. (5)

Ch1, tie off Belly Colour. The loose end will be

left inside the body when stuffed and closed
up.

Note that the stitch markers divide the Belly

Coloured section into 5 sets of 12 rows, plus 1
extra row at the end.

Tentacle directions will be continued after

attaching the suckers. If you’re making your
octopus without suckers, skip the next section
and move on to THE TENTACLES – PART 2.

Complete the tentacles one at a time. Move

on to the next parts of the pattern to
complete this tentacle before starting the
next tentacle.

8
Use a 2 mm hook A NOTE TO LEFT-HANDED PEOPLE

There are 5 different sizes of suckers. Each of Work your suckers in the opposite
the 5 marked sections of the Belly Coloured sequence to the instructions that
piece will have a different type of sucker. Two follow. Instead, work (f), (e), (d), (c),
suckers will be attached to every second row, (b), then (a). You should work the
starting from R3 of the tentacle. This will same number of stitches into the
produce 12 suckers in total per section. same spaces as directed for each
step, except that you’ll start at (f),
work anti-clockwise, and end at (a).

9
HOW TO ATTACH THE SUCKERS

The suckers are crocheted onto the Belly

Coloured section. The following images
illustrate which parts of the stitches to work
into, starting at (a) and ending at (f). These will
be referred to as “spaces” (sps) in the
instructions that follow. Familiarize yourself
with the images so that you can identify and
work into the spaces with ease.

If necessary, place a stitch marker onto each

indicated loop, (a) to (f), to help you identify
them until you are familiar.

10
SUCKER - TYPE 1 1SC in next sp, (d).
Make 12

It is important to crochet over your starting

thread as you go, to secure it. The entire first
row of every sucker should be worked over
the starting thread. Do not trim the starting
thread.

R1: Return to R2. Insert hook at 4th SC, before

the DC that is already worked in that stitch
(between 3rd and 4th st of Belly Colour, R3). 2SC in next sp, (e).

Join Sucker Colour with a SS. Ch1, SC in same 2SC in next sp, (f).
space, (a).

SS in 1st SC. (10)

Tie off, leaving approx. 8cm thread for
weaving in.

2SC in next sp, (b).

Note that the sucker is ring-shaped, with a

hole in the middle (this hole is about the size
of a pencil and will remain open). The starting
thread is inside the hole. The loose end is
2SC in next sp, (c).
outside the hole. Do not trim the starting
thread, but pull it back out the other side of
the hole so that it is under the sucker and out
of the way for now. Weave in the loose end as
directed below.
Sucker directions to be continued after
weaving ends in.
11
WEAVING IN THE LOOSE END Note: Since the area where you have
woven the loose end is going to be encased
Loose ends may be woven in as you go, or inside the tentacle, this should be
once all the suckers are complete. However, sufficient to secure any loose ends. For
they must be woven in before continuing further peace of mind, both threads can be
with Body Colour. woven even more securely. To do this,
leave yourself a slightly longer thread to
Thread your needle with the loose end. Sew work with (10cm instead of 8cm), and after
into the 1st stitch. sewing the loose end around the ring,
change direction and sew around again.
Repeat similarly for both threads, before
trimming.

SUCKER – TYPE 1 CONTINUED

Sew downwards into the sucker (sew into the
sucker itself, catching some yarn - do not just The first sucker is complete. Work a second
insert the needle through the hole), then pull
sucker next to it, as follows:
your thread out the back of the Belly Coloured
piece.
Return to R2. Insert hook at 2nd SC (between
1st and 2nd st of Belly Colour, R3). Work
another sucker identical to the first one: Join
Sucker Colour with a SS at (a).

Sew around the base of the sucker (around

the hole). Pull both threads tight enough only
to remove any slack in the threads, then trim.
Do not attempt to pull the hole closed.
Weaving is complete. Images below show WS of
Ch1, 1SC in same sp. 2SC in (b). 2SC in (c). 1SC
workpiece.
in (d). 2SC in (e). 2SC in (f). SS in 1st SC. Tie off
and weave in the ends as before. All suckers’
ends should be woven in in the same manner.

12
Skip the next row of Belly Colour and then SUCKER – TYPE 2
attach two more suckers. Begin by inserting Make 12
your hook into the 4th DC of R4 (between the
3rd and 4th DC of R5). Work this sucker the The next suckers (Types 2, 3, 4 and 5) are all
worked into the same spaces as you have
same as previous ones.
been using for the Type 1 suckers, and they all
have 1 row left open between each 2 pairs of
suckers.

Row 1 is the same as Sucker Type 1, as

follows:
Begin the next sucker in the 2nd DC of R4
(between the 1st and 2nd DC of R5). R1: Join Sucker Colour with a SS at (a). Ch1,
1SC in same sp. 2SC in (b). 2SC in (c). 1SC in
(d). 2SC in (e). 2SC in (f). SS in 1st SC. (10)

In the same manner, work 8 more Type 1

Suckers over the next 8 rows, leaving 1 row
open between each set of 2 suckers.

R2: Ch1. Starting in 1st SC, 10SS. SS into joining

SS of R1. Finish with a SS into 1st SS of R2. (11)

Tie off.

13
SUCKER - TYPE 3 SUCKER – TYPE 4
Make 12 Make 12

Row 1 is the same as Sucker Type 1, except Row 1 is the same as Sucker Type 1.
worked with HDC stitches.
R1: Join Sucker Colour with a SS at (a). Ch1,
R1: Join Sucker Colour with a SS at (a). Ch1, 1SC in same sp. 2SC in (b). 2SC in (c). 1SC in (d).
1HDC in same sp. 2HDC in (b). 2HDC in (c). 2SC in (e). 2SC in (f). SS in 1st SC. (10)
1HDC in (d). 2HDC in (e). 2HDC in (f). SS in 1st
HDC. (10)

Tie off.

R2: Ch1. *SC-incr. 4SC* X 2. SS in 1st SC. (12)

Work 11 more suckers into this section,

following the same rules as before.

Tie off.

Work 11 more suckers into this section,

following the same rules as before.

14
SUCKER – TYPE 5 All the suckers are complete.
Make 12
Remove all the stitch markers except the very
Row 1 is the same as Sucker Type 1. first one that you placed, at R2.

Weave in the ends before proceeding with the

R1: Join Sucker Colour with a SS at (a). Ch1,
tentacle.
1SC in same sp. 2SC in (b). 2SC in (c). 1SC in
(d). 2SC in (e). 2SC in (f). SS in 1st SC. (10)

R2: Ch1. *SC-incr. 2SC* X 3. SC-incr. SS in 1st

SC. (14)

Tie off.

Work 11 more suckers into this section,

following the same rules as before.

15
Use a 4mm hook CLOSING UP AND STUFFING THE TENTACLES

You will now be directed to work rows of

MARKING THE TENTACLES
Body Colour back and forth to close up
the tentacle, forming it into a long
Starting from the 1st row of Belly Colour, count
sausage and stuffing it as you go.
33 rows, then place a marker on the side of
R33. *Count 10 more rows then place a
marker on the 10th row.* Twice. There will be You’ll be working 1 row of Body Colour
8 rows left open after the 3rd marker is placed. for every Belly Coloured row. The Body
Coloured rows will be worked perfectly
parallel and joined to the Belly Coloured
rows as you go.

Work your slip stitches tightly to

minimize the holes in the sides.

16
Take a closer look at the holes you’ll be SS into the top of the 1st available DC of Belly
working into during this section. The stitch Colour (illustrated by purple marker), working
markers in the image below mark the types of into the stitch loops once again. (7)
spaces that you’ll be working into. New
stitches will be worked into the loops of these
existing DC stitches (the holes that are visible
between the rows).

R4: In this row, the 2 spaces have been

marked by a green and pink marker. Ch2, SS
into top of Belly Colour DC (at green marker).
Return to R2. Remove the stitch marker from Turn.
Body Colour and place loop back onto hook to
continue crocheting where you stopped
earlier. The purple and orange stitch markers
pictured are for illustrative purposes.

R3: Ch2. SS into the top of the 1st available DC

Starting in 1st available DC of Body Colour,
of Belly Colour (illustrated by orange marker).
7DC. SS into top of Belly Colour DC (at pink
This is the 1st DC on the right-hand side of the
marker). (7)
row. Work the SS into the stitch loops of this
DC. Turn (do not ch1). Starting in the 1st
available SC of R2, 7DC.

17
R5: Ch2, SS into top of Belly Colour DC. Turn. R6-34: Continue working back and forth,
Starting in 1st available DC of Body Colour, crocheting rows of 7DC in the same manner
7DC. SS into top of Belly Colour DC. (7) as R4 and 5. Make sure that you work one
complete Body Colour row for each complete
Belly Colour row, and that all the rows are
parallel.

TIP: If you accidentally skip a Belly

Coloured row when working your SS, your
rows will start running at a slight angle
(pictured below) instead of parallel.

STUFFING

Stuff the tentacle as you go, stopping after

every 6-8 rows to stuff it. Use soft, springy
stuffing and fill the tentacle just enough to
produce a sausage shape. The tentacles must
be stuffed only enough to produce a smooth
R35: (This is the first marked row) Ch2, SS into
sausage with no gaps or lumps. Do not try to
top of Belly Colour DC. Turn. 3DC, DC-incr,
compact the stuffing tightly, but leave it soft
3DC. (8)
and springy. This will prevent over-stuffing
and keep the tentacles floppy.
Remove the stitch markers as you reach them.

At the end of this row, and every row until the

tentacle is complete, SS into the nearest Belly
Coloured DC, then ch2. SS into Belly Coloured
DC of next row, then turn. This is the same
method you have been using all along to work
The stuffing will be slightly visible through the
back and forth, but has been omitted from the
stitches.
following text to save space.

18
R36-44: Continue working back and forth as Note how the last 8 rows widen the end of the
before, crocheting 8DC per row. (8) tentacle considerably. When stuffing this area,
it is important to create the correct shape. The
R45: (This is the second marked row) 3DC, DC- tentacle should remain the exact same width
incr, 4DC. (9) all along, when viewed from the top. It should
widen towards the opening, when viewed
from the side.

R46-54: Continue working back and forth as

before, crocheting 9DC per row. (9)
The first tentacle is complete! Make 7 more
R55: (This is the third marked row) 4DC, DC- exactly the same. If you have multiple balls of
incr, 4DC. (10) yarn you can work on multiple tentacles
simultaneously.

Use the stitch

markers to avoid
R56: 2DC, DC-incr, 4DC, DC-incr, 2DC. (12) having to count
R57: 3DC, DC-incr, 4DC, DC-incr, 3DC. (14) your rows, but
R58: 4DC, DC-incr, 4DC, DC-incr, 4DC. (16) remember, they
R59: 5DC, DC-incr, 4DC, DC-incr, 5DC. (18) must be
R60: 6DC, DC-incr, 4DC, DC-incr, 6DC. (20) positioned
R61: 7DC, DC-incr, 4DC, DC-incr, 7DC. (22) correctly to begin
R62: 8DC, DC-incr, 4DC, DC-incr, 8DC. (24) with.
R63: 9DC, DC-incr, 4DC, DC-incr, 9DC. (26)

At the end of R63, SS into last Belly Coloured

DC. Ch1, tie off. The loose ends will be tucked
inside the body as you close it up. Leave the
last 4 rows un-stuffed for easier handling
later.

19
Use a 5mm hook The placement of these markers must be
precise. When placed correctly you
Remember: Chains and slip stitches do not should have a marker in the 10th and the
count as stitches. Do not count them or 17th Body Colour DC of R63. Let’s name
work into them at any time throughout the markers A and B, respectively.
this project, unless specifically directed to
do so.

MARKING THE TENTACLES’ OPENINGS

Start counting from the last Body Colour DC of

R63.

Skip 9 sts and place a marker in the 10th st.

Skip 6 more sts and place a marker in the 7th

st.

20
Mark all 8 tentacles in the same way, ensuring Make sure that R1 has not twisted anywhere.
that all markers are correctly positioned.

Close up the ring of tentacles by working 1SC

into the 1st SC of R1.
JOINING THE TENTACLES TOGETHER

The tentacles will now be joined together to

begin the body as directed. Do not remove the
stitch markers; they will be needed later.

R1: Join Body Colour at A with a SS, ch1.

Starting in same st and working the loose end
in as you go, 8SC, finishing at B.

You will now continue working in the round

and you’ll be directed to use 2 running stitch
markers (RSMs) in the following instructions.
Use 2 different colours to avoid confusion. The
first RSM will be used like normal to mark the
Leave rem sts un-worked. *8SC in next beginning of every row, as an RSM is usually
tentacle, starting at A and finishing at B.* used. The second RSM will be used to mark
Repeat 6 more times until all 8 tentacles are where the front of the octopus ends, and the
joined by a row of SC. (64) back of the octopus begins. This is to assist
with counting so you don’t have to count out
the stitches for the front of the octopus with
every row – simply crochet up to the stitch
marker and when you reach it, you’ll know
you’re about to start working the back of the
octopus. (More directions will be provided as
you go).

21
R2: Use a running stitch marker and work in 2SC. *SC-incr, 6SC* X 4. SC-incr, 3SC. (64)
the round. 1SC in next stitch. This stitch will
now be counted as stitch number 1 of R2. 1SC,
SC-decr. *4SC, SC-decr* X 4. 2SC.

TIP: Stitches number 1 to 25 are the front

of the octopus. The remaining 39 stitches
are the back of the octopus. If needed,
attach some additional markers to the
closed ends of the front 4 tentacles to help
you distinguish them from the back 4
tentacles at a later stage.

R3: 25SC. 3SC. *SC-incr, 7SC* X 4. SC-incr, 3SC.

(69)

You don’t have to count 25SC, simply

Place a 2nd running stitch marker, then crochet up until you reach the RSM2
continue working in the round as directed, (thus using up 25 sts), lay RSM2 over
continuing in the very next SC. your row, then continue in the very
next st which you now know will be
Every time you reach this RSM in the the 26th st. It may be necessary to
following rows, lay it back and forth count the stitches until you’re
exactly as you would for an RSM at the confident with the use of both RSMs.
beginning of a round. Consequently, this
marker will fall between the 25th and 26th
st of every row following. The first RSM
with fall between the 1st and last st of
every row following, just like a regular
RSM. Differentiate between the two RSMs
by noting where the front of the octopus is.

22
R4: 25SC to RSM2. 3SC. *SC-incr, 8SC* X 4. SC- R21: *13SC, SC-decr* X 6. (84)
incr, 4SC. (74) R22: *12SC, SC-decr* X 6. (78)
R5: 25SC to RSM2. 4SC. *SC-incr, 9SC* X 4. SC- R23: *11SC, SC-decr* X 6. (72)
incr, 4SC. (79) R24: *10SC, SC-decr* X 6. (66)
R6: 25SC to RSM2. 4SC. *SC-incr, 10SC* X 4. R25: *9SC, SC-decr* X 6. (60)
SC-incr, 5SC. (84) R26: *8SC, SC-decr* X 6. (54)
R7: 25SC to RSM2. 4SC. *SC-incr, 9SC* X 5. SC- R27: *7SC, SC-decr* X 6. (48)
incr, 4SC. (90) R28: *6SC, SC-decr* X 6. (42)
R29: *5SC, SC-decr* X 6. (36)
R30: *4SC, SC-decr* X 6. (30)
R31: *3SC, SC-decr* X 6. (24)
R32: *2SC, SC-decr* X 6. (18)
R33: *1SC, SC-decr* X 6. (12)
R34: SC-decr X 6. (6)

From this point on you’ll be directed to work a

few straight rows and then start decreasing
until the body is closed up. It is no longer
necessary to keep marking the subsequent
rows with RSM2. Leave RSM2 in place but do
not keep laying it over the following rows
(hence it will mark R2-7 only). Keep using
Tie off and sew closed. To sew closed, insert
RSM1 as usual, to mark the beginning of every
your needle in FLO of all sts then pull closed
row until the body is complete.
like a drawstring. Sew around until secure
R8-20: 90SC. (90) then leave the loose end inside the body.

The top part of the body is complete. Now it’s

time to join the sides of the tentacles, leaving
only the belly open. Do not remove the
running stitch markers until instructed.

23
JOINING THE SIDES OF THE TENTACLES To join the sides of the tentacles you will be
Use a 5mm hook crocheting through two layers of your
workpiece at the same time, joining them
To locate the position of C and D on the together. Start with any adjacent 2 tentacles.
tentacle: D is the second last Body Colour DC The stitch markers are still in their original
of R63. C is the second Body Colour DC of positions. Line up A with B, and D with C.
R63. Mark these stitches if needed. There
should be 7 sts open between each marker.

Front view.

Insert hook in C and through D as well. Your

hook should go through WS of C and RS of D.
You now have 2 stitches on your hook, ready
to work through 2 layers at the same time and
join the tentacles together.
Side view.

Join Body Colour with a SS, ch1. Starting in

Side view.
same st, 8SC, working through both layers as
you go, to join the tentacles. Work the loose
end in as you go.

24
Insert hook in B and A to work a final SC. (9) Repeat this joining method on each tentacle
until only the belly is left open and all the sides
of the tentacles are joined. (8 joins)

STUFFING THE BODY

Apollo’s body cavity is large and will require

lots of stuffing. Take your time to avoid lumps
and create a smoothly rounded bulb. Locate
the front of the octopus to differentiate it from
Ch1, tie off. Leave loose end inside the back. The front half is flat; it was worked
body/tentacle. with straight rows. It is the flat area between
the 2 RSMs.

The back half has increases, making it bulge

out. Keep this in mind when stuffing,
encouraging the front to be flat and the back
to protrude. Stuff the body enough to keep its
shape and be in balanced proportion to the
tentacles.

Remove any stitch markers connected to this

join, leaving all other markers in place. As you
complete each join, remove those markers
connected to that join only.

25
Fill the body until you reach the point where it
joins to the tentacles, then move on to
working the belly section in the directions that
follow.

Place your
octopus belly-up
in a bowl to make
stuffing easier!

26
 THE BELLY
Use a 5mm hook

At the opening on each tentacle you have 7 sts

left to work into. There are 5 Belly Colour DCs
with 1 Body Colour DC on either side. Let’s
label these E and F. They are the stitches
adjacent to C and D.

Keep Apollo in his

bowl for easy
handling while
crocheting the
belly.

27
R1: Start on any tentacle. Using Belly Colour, *Working on the next tentacle, 8SC from
join at E with a SS, ch1. Starting in same st, E to C in the same method as before* X
and working over the loose end as you go, 7SC 7. (64)
up to F on the same tentacle.

You now have 1 row of Belly Colour SC all the

way around, worked into every tentacle.
Make sure you work the 7th st into the DC, not Continue working in the round and use a
into the chain. running stitch marker.

R2: *11SC, SC-decr* X 4. 12SC. (60)

Stuff the remainder of the tentacles, keeping
the width uniform (when viewed from the
underside). Continue stuffing the remaining
cavity as you go, until the belly is closed up,
flat and smooth. This portion should be
stuffed to the same firmness as the body.

Insert your hook through D and C, in the same

way as you did when joining the sides of the
tentacles together. 1SC through both layers at
once to join them. (8)

28
R3: *10SC, SC-decr* X 5. (55)
R4: *9SC, SC-decr* X 5. (50)
R5: *8SC, SC-decr* X 5. (45)

As you stuff the body, check that the bulb

remains well-rounded. As you fill the body and
tentacles more, this portion will get longer.

R6: *7SC, SC-decr* X 5. (40)

R7: *6SC, SC-decr* X 5. (35)
R8: *5SC, SC-decr* X 5. (30)
R9: *4SC, SC-decr* X 5. (25)
R10: *3SC, SC-decr* X 5. (20)
R11: *2SC, SC-decr* X 5. (15)
R12: *1SC, SC-decr* X 5. (10)
R13: SC-decr X 5. (5)

Tie off and sew closed securely. Sew the loose

end inside the body.

The entire body is now all closed up and

complete.

Remove the running stitch marker.

29
Hook sizes are provided at each
section
Finished size: 4cm long x 3cm high x
5cm wide

Make both eyes

at the same time
to avoid
discrepancies in
tension and size.

30
LIGHT REFLECTIONS Tie off, leaving a 20cm thread for sewing. Turn
piece over. Sew starting thread around magic
ring to close and secure it. Do not trim the
loose ends.

EYEBALLS
Make 2
Use a 2mm hook

Working with
black yarn and a
Large
small hook can
Use a 1.5mm hook
be challenging!
Make 2 Work in a well-
Finished size: 20mm diameter lit area and
Use White don’t give up –
you can do this!
R1: In magic ring, ch2, 12DC. SS in 1st DC. (12)

Tie off, leaving a 20cm thread for sewing. Turn

piece over. Sew starting thread around magic
ring to close and secure it. Do not trim the
R1: Using Black, ch8. 3SC in 2nd ch from hook.
loose ends.

TIP: Place a stitch marker on the 1st SC to

make it easier to locate later if you have
trouble seeing your stitches.

*SC-incr, 1SC* X 2. SC-incr. 3SC in last ch.

Small
Use a 2mm hook
Make 2
Finished size: 10mm diameter
Use White

R1: 6SC in magic ring. SS in 1st SC. (6)

31
Working down the other side of the chain, R4: Ch1. Starting in same st, *2SC, SC-incr* X
starting in the very next chain: 5SC. SS in 1st 3. *SC-decr* X 4. *SC-incr, 2SC* X 2. SC-incr,
SC. (19) 3SC. SS in 1st SC. (29)

Tie off. Tie off.

R2: Using Light Colour, join at 8th SC with a SS, R5: Using Dark Colour, join at 1st SC with a SS,
ch1. When changing colour on the eyes, it is ch1. Starting in same st, *4SC, SC-incr* X 6
sufficient to work over the loose end of (Note: work the last incr into the SS of R4). SS
your previous colour for only 1 stitch in 1st SC. (36)
instead of 3 stitches. Starting in same st,
*2SC, SC-incr* X 2. SC-incr, 1SC. *SC-dec.* X 2.
1SC into Black SS. SC-incr. *SC-incr, 2SC* X 2.
SS in 1st SC. (24)

Tie off.
Continue working in the round and use a
running stitch marker.
R6: *5SC, SC-incr* X 6. (42)
R7-8: 42SC. (42)
R9: *5SC, SC-decr* X 6. (36)
R10: *4SC, SC-decr* X 6. (30)

R3: Using Medium Colour, join at 1st SC of R2 Do not tie off yet. To be continued with R11
with a SS, ch1. Starting in same st, 1SC, SC- after attaching light reflections.
incr, 4SC, SC-incr, 1SC, SC-incr. *SC-decr* X 3.
SC-incr, 1SC, SC-incr, 4SC, SC-incr, 1SC. SS in 1st If possible, working from the other end of your
SC. (27) yarn ball, work both eyeballs up to R10.
Having both completed up to this point will
make it easier to attach the light reflections
symmetrically in both eyes. Once the first
eyeball has been stuffed, replicating the
position of the light reflections on the second
eyeball will be more difficult.

32
ATTACHING THE LIGHT REFLECTIONS Start stuffing the eye firmly and continue
stuffing as you go.
It is important for the eyes to be symmetrical,
mirror images of each other (i.e. opposites).
Both reflections overlap the edge of the pupil
only slightly, as not to obstruct its bow-shape.
Place the large reflection in the top left
quarter of the first eye, spanning R1-6. While
The eye should be flattened so that R7 is
held loosely in place, pull the starting thread
clearly visible when viewed from the front. It
through the eye so that it is inside the eye
should be 3cm thick, 5cm across, and 4cm
with all the other loose ends.
from top to bottom.

R12: *2SC, SC-decr* X 6. (18)

R13: *1SC, SC-decr* X 6. (12)
R14: *SC-decr* X 6. (6)

Tie off, leaving a 60cm thread for sewing.

Shape the eyes to be flatter at the bottom and

rounder at the top for a more smiley
appearance, like a sideways D-shape.
Sew all around the edge of the reflection,
working whip stitches into the area directly
beneath the reflection to avoid long, visible
stitches.

The edge of the small refection is level with

the center of the large one and placed in the Directions on
top right quarter of the eye. Attach by the how to attach all
same method as the large reflection. the eye pieces to
the body are
Sew the remaining two reflections on the
provided in the
second eye to create a mirror image of the
Assembly
first eye.
section.
R11: *3SC, SC-decr* X 6. (24)

33
THE EYELIDS Bottom Eyelids
Use a 4mm hook Make 2
Use Body Colour Finished size: 11cm long

Top Eyelids
Make 2
Finished size: 15cm long

R1: 5SC in magic ring. (5)

Continue working in the round and use a

running stitch marker.

R1: 5SC in magic ring. (5) R2: SC-inc. 4SC. (6)

R3: 1SC, SC-incr, 4SC. (7)
Continue working in the round and use a R4: 1SC, SC-incr, 5SC. (8)
running stitch marker. R5: 1SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (9)
R6-7: 9SC. (9)
R2: SC-inc. 4SC. (6) R8-9: 3SC, 3HDC, 3SC. (9)
R3: 1SC, SC-incr, 4SC. (7) R10-12: 9SC. (9)
R4: 1SC, SC-incr, 5SC. (8)
R5: 1SC, SC-incr, 6SC. (9) Start stuffing the eyelid and continue stuffing
R6: 1SC, SC-incr, 7SC. (10) as you go, until the end. They should be
R7: 1SC, SC-incr, 8SC. (11) stuffed to the same firmness as the top
eyelids.
Start stuffing the eyelid and continue stuffing
as you go, until the end. The eyelids should be R13: 1SC, SC-decr, 6SC. (8)
soft and flexible, not too firm. R14: 1SC, SC-decr, 5SC. (7)
R15: 1SC, SC-decr, 4SC. (6)
R8-10: 11SC. (11) R16: SC-decr, 4SC. (5)
R11-16: 4SC, 3HDC, 4SC. (11)
R17-19: 11SC. (11) Tie off, leaving a 30cm thread for sewing. Sew
R20: 1SC, SC-decr, 8SC. (10) the end closed like a drawstring.
R21: 1SC, SC-decr, 7SC. (9)
R22: 1SC, SC-decr, 6SC. (8)
R23: 1SC, SC-decr, 5SC. (7)
R24: 1SC, SC-decr, 4SC. (6)
R25: SC-decr, 4SC. (5)

Tie off, leaving a 50cm thread for sewing. Sew Remove the running stitch markers from all
the end closed like a drawstring. the eye pieces.

34
Assembly is always the part of a pattern Locate the front of the octopus’s body, this is
where you get to give your creature its the flatter side, and the shorter section
unique personality! between the 2 running stitch markers. The 4
tentacles between these st markers are the
Apollo is a big project so it’s well worth front tentacles.
talking the time to assemble him
carefully after all the time you’ve spent
making his pieces! Use lots of pins and
sew precisely.

Flip to the end of

the pattern to
see pictures of
Apollo completed
for reference.
The running stitch markers may be
removed once you’ve ascertained for
certain which is the front and back.
35
Make sure the eyeball is shaped correctly (like To secure the pins tightly, insert the sharp tip
a sideways D). into the outer edge of the eyeball (R8), then
pull it away from the center of the eyeball to
stretch it slightly, then push it into the body at
an angle. Repeat all around the eyeball to
create tension and the pins will stay in place.

See the
Amigurumi Tips
booklet for
more info on
pinning and
Place the left eyeball on the left side of the
sewing.
body above tentacle 1 (the 1st tentacle on
Apollo’s front left) with the small light
refection closer to the front of the body,
leaving about 5 rows open above the tentacle.
Check that the bottom eyelid fits into the
space between the eyeball and the tentacle.
Pin both eyeballs in the same way but place
the second eye above tentacle 4.
Sew the eyeballs with a whip stitch all around,
attaching R8 of the eyeball snugly to the body.
Sew both eyeballs before proceeding.
Once the eyeball is attached, nudge it back
into the correct shape, flattening the bottom
back into its D-shape and squishing the
eyeball flatter onto the body.

Squash the eyeball onto the body and pin in

place, taking care to preserve the shape of the
eyeball, keeping it centered with the tentacle
and keeping it level.

36
BOTTOM EYELIDS Sewing, illustrated on top eyelid.

Place an eyelid underneath an eyeball, making

sure it’s centered. Push it right up against the
eyeball. Pin the pointy ends at either side of
the eyeball.

Attach both eyelids symmetrically before

proceeding.

Check that the top eyelid fits in the remaining

space by holding it in place so that the whole
eyeball will be surrounded by eyelid in the
end.
TOP EYELIDS

Add more pins to the bottom eyelid if needed, Place the top eyelid so the pointy ends cover
then sew in place along the bottom of the those of the lower eyelid and pin in place,
crescent (along the line where the eyelid stretching as needed.
touches the body).

37
Just like the lower lid, it should remain snug
up against the eyeball at all times.

Squash it onto the body as you sew the outer

crescent to the body. Sew both top eyelids in
the same way, symmetrically.

Completed eye.

Congratulations,
your giant octopus is
complete! Don’t
forget to share
pictures of your
project! My official
hashtag is
#ApolloTheOctopus.

38
39
Etsy.com/shop/PROJECTARIAN

Projectarian.com

Instagram.com/Projectarian/

Facebook.com/Projectarian/

Hookedonsunshine.co

Ravelry.com/designers/Projectarian

40