AN I N D IA N R AJ A H ,

GI RL S WINTER IN INDIA
’

M A RY TH O RN C A RPENT E R

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A NSON D . F . RA N D O LP H CO M PA N Y

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F OR W H OS E PLE A S U R E T HIS J OU RN A L W A S W R I TTE N ; T HA T

D ESPIT E THE S
DI T A N CE SO M E T H I N G I N I T M A Y H ELP

HIM TO S E E WH E R E H I S E Y E S C A N N O T R E A C H ,

FOR W E H A VE N E V E R T H E T I M E A N D
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PL A C E A N D T H E L OV E D O N E
”
A L L T O G E T HE R .

M I L L B R OO K ,
D U T C H E SS CO U N T Y, Y .
 C O N T E NTS .

C H A PT E R I .

N APLE S A N D TH E M ED I T E R RA N E A N .

PAG E

Fr o m R o me t o N a p les A D a y a t P o mp e u
. T he .

P le a sure-H o uses o f the R o ma n s L u n ch i n A u g ustus s

’
.

T e mpl e O ther S i g hts a n d R etur n b y C a rri a g e

.
,
.

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T he C hus a n A M o d el P en i n sul a r a n d O rien t a l
.

S te a mer L i fe o n S hi p b o a r d
. S e a G a mes R e a ch
. .

E g yp t

C H A PTE R II .

P O RT S AID AN D T H ROU G H TH E SU E Z C A NA L .

O n D o nkeys at P o rt S a i d . A N i g ht
- on the Ca na l .

S a n d st o r ms — T h e
- .
“
C hus a n ”
tie d up .
— T he R e d
S ea . I n ten se H e a t on S hi p b o a r d . Gli mp ses o f
H o l y P l a ces

C H A P TE R I I I .

O N T H E I N D IA N O C EAN .

V o lc a n ic A de n
B a rg a i n i n g fo r B a skets
. R o wed .

a sh o re b y S o ma l e s e B o a t me n - T he C a mel M a rket
. .

A C a mel R i de A n O ce a n C o till o n
. A rri va l a t .

C eyl o n T h e N i g ht o f W a iti ng
.
 CZMVYQEAKTS Z

C H A PT E R IV
TH E I S LAND OF C EYL O N .

P AGE

S i n g a lese C a t a ma ra n s . An O rien t a l H o tel . A Da y

With N a ti ve Jewellers I n J i n rikish a s a t C o l o mb o
. .

T hr o u g h a Ju ng le K a l a n i e the Bu d dhist T o p e
.
, . By
M o u nt a i n R a ilwa y t o K a ndy I n the M o u n t a i n s
.

C H A P TE R V .

IN A SINGA LE S E PARA DI S E .

K a n d i a n C uri o s a n d K a ndi a n C u nni ng U n p r o g ressi ve .

N a ti v e C ust o ms A D ri v e t o a T e a est a te
. M a ki ng - .

C eyl o n T e a — T h e E d e n o f the E a st
. A t P e r a d en .

i ya — T w o A merica n Girls i n a Bu dd hist L ibra ry

.

T he I n d i a n O ce a n fro m G a lle F a c e — A Gl o ri o us
S u n set

C H APT E R V I .

B O M BA Y .

A t S ea in the T r o p ics — A
K a lei do sc o p e o f E a stern
.

R a ce s — T h e P a rsees o f B o mb a y — T o wer o f S i .

lence .R o ya l Y a cht C lub B a ll A N a ti ve Fe a st i n .

our n
Ho o r at the M i ssi o n — A n i ma l H o s p it a l . .

Fl o wer M a rket its S i g hts a n d S o u nd s

,

C H A PT E R V II .

A LLA HA BAD .

T r a velli ng w ith a S ur a ti S er v a n t . H i s T a lents and his

F a ilures . L a urie
s ’
H o tel . A M issi o n Bung a l o w .

A N o ble L i fe Wo rk at A ll a h a b a d . T he N a ti ve D i s
 C ON TE NTS . ix

P A GE

p en sar y .
—A Zen a na and its I nma tes C a sh meri a n .

W o me n . T he F o rt . Br a h mi n D u p licity T he .

M el a h . H o ly F a ki r s

C H A P TE R V I I I .

L
CA C U TTA .

T h e C it y o f P a l a ces . T he Gre a t E a ster n H o tel A .

—
S i ng ul a r Gh a rri . S t a rti n g fo r a Br a h mo —S o ma j
B a z a a r — T h e H i nd u R efo rmer s H o use
. T he C z a r
’
.

o w i t c h s E n tr a nce i n t o C a lcutt a T h e B a ll a t the

’
.

V icer o y s A G a r de n-p a rt y a t G o v er nme n t H o use

’
. .

P ri n ce F u r r o k s h a h C a lcutta T urf C lub

. A .

W a lk i n the E den G a rden s C a lcutt a D i v ersi o n s . .

Sa la a m

C H A P TE R I X .

B E N ARE S AN D T H E B RA H M I N S .

T he Bri dg e o ver the G a ng es — O n the S a cre d R iver . .

T h e Bur n i ng Gh a ut T h e C o w T e mp le. S hri ne o f .

the M o nkeys — T he Well o f K n o wled g e - A n I d o l

. .

B a z a a r — T he S a ma t h o f Bu d d h a its R ui ns a n d its
.
, ,

A n ti q uit y

C H A P TE R X .

AT LUCK N OW AN D CAWN P ORE .

Its Sy ste m o f H o tel M a n a e me n t Fur -d e a lers fr o m

g .

the S no ws C uri o us N a ti v e B a z a a rs
. T heir B is a d .

v a n t a es n d P eculi a rities Ki n de s
’
g a T h e n
g o f O .

P a l a ce . M uti ny S cenes B y O u de a n d R o h i lku n d

.
 (QQAK ZEYV YS Z

PA G E
R a ilr o a d to C a wn p o re .
— T h e M a ss a cre Gh a ut .

Vi v i d R emembr a nces o f t h e S tru g g le re ma i n i ng in

Ca w n p o re — A M uti ny S t o ry
.

C H A PTE R X I .

A G RA AN D T H E TA ] MA H A L .

A n E mp er o r s L o ve A S enti me n t a l E xcursi o n T he
’
. .

M a rv el of A g ra .
— A kb a r ’ s sti mes — I n his I m
Pa
p eri a l P a v ili o ns . S t J o h n s C o lleg e
. S tu de n t L i fe
’
. .

An E v en i n g of H i n d u R ag s a n d A meric a n S o ng s .

L e a ve -t a ki ng i n I nd i a

C H A PT E R ! II .

AT FU TT E H P O R E SIK R I .

E xcu rsi o n t o A k b a r rs a illes S t o ries o f T h u g s

’
An s V e .

a n d K a li T h e Gre a t M o g ul
. S a li m C histi A .
.

M o sle m S a i n t s T o mb M a rble M o s q ues a n d L a ce

’
.

W o rk S cree n s B i r l o u l the F a v o rite

. his H o use , .

T h e M err y M o n a rch s M a ny Bri d es C ro sses a n d

’
.

C resce n ts i n a S a r a ce n ic R ui n — E ng lish R ule i n I n

d i a — A C o n v ers a ti o n
. A no ther C a ste fo r I n d i a
.

C H A PT E R X II I .

D ELH I AN D IT S RU I NS .

T h e C it y o f S h a h Jeh a n D elhi T r a d es men a n d N a ti ve

.

Jewelry —A T ra n s a cti o n i n the I n d i a n M a nner

. .

T he L a h o re
G a te T h e I mp eri a l P a l a ce
. M o ti .

M u s j l d — R u ng M a h a l
. T h e P e a c o ck T hr o ne . .

S a r a cen ic S p le n d o r i n t h e E a st
 C ON TE N TS . xi

C H A PT E R ! IV .

A WELS H RAR E B IT .

PA G E

A P icn ic at the K oot u b . A mo ng the R ui n s of the

M o g uls wer A l t mi s h H u ma yo o n b Tom
’ ’
. s To . s .

T he K o o t u b T h e M o s q ues
. . C o o ki ng a R a rebit .

N a tive C uri o sit y a n d E ur o p ea n P ersev er a n ce

C H A PTE R XV .

J EYP O RE , TH E C IT Y O F TH E RAJ P UTS .

A C o nfecti o ner y C it y B iblic a l S i g hts . T h e R a jp uts . .

L eg en d s — C uri o us C urren cy
. T h e E le p h a nts . .

G a rd en s a n d Z o o A Fi g hti ng C heet a h
. T he .

M a h a ra j a h s P a la ce R o ya l Z en a n a The I m
’
and .

p eri a l S t a bles

C H A PTE R XV I .

AN ELEPH A N T RID E To A MB ER .

E a rl y M o rn i n g J e yp o re inT h e M a h a r a ja h s E l e
’
.

p h a n t s
. T h e A n cie n t P a l a ce D ev i s S hri ne T h e .
’
.
“

P riests . T h e S hish M a h a l — V iews fr o m the P a l a ce . .

M o nke ys a n d W il d P e a c o cks A T o urist a t .

A mber — R e tur n t o B o mb a y
.
'

E le p h a n t a I sl a n d . .

”
T h e S te a mshi p G a ng es I n the H a rb o r .G o o d-b y .

t o I n d ia
 L I ST O F I L L U S T RA T I O N S .

A N INDIA N RA J A H

O
R A D -M A K ER S
C OO L I N B R A H M I N S

A M I SS I O N -S C H OO L G I R L

W O M E N C A R R Y I NG WA T E R
A B U LL O C K C A R T A N D S H A N K E R

A N A T I V E H I N D U F A M I LY

R U I N S O F T EMPLE N E A R T H E K O O T U B

N A U TCH GI R LS

A GRA I N BA ZA A R

G A TE WA Y M A H A R A J A H S P A LA C E
’

A N E K H A JEYP O R E
,
2 A GI RL ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

Th i s m o rn i ng th e s u n b u rst th ro u gh o u r ro o m s ;
a n d ru sh i ng to th e wi n d ow w e s a w full i n fro nt , , ,

th e m a t c hl e ss B a y O f N a p l e s a n d th e blu e i sl a nds ,

b e yo nd s o s o ft i n c olo ri ng a n d b lu e r sti ll th a n th e
, ,

d e e p b l u e w a t e r a n d th e clo u dl e ss s ky a b ov e th e m .

T h e d a y p rov e d s u n n y a n d w a rm a n d w e o rd e r e d a ,

p a i r O f go o d h o rs e s fo r a d r ive to Po m p e i i Th e .

c o u ri e r stows a w a y o u r l u nc h i n th e b i g l a nd a u ,

l e a p s to a s e a t b e s i d e th e d riv e r , an d w ith a sc r e a m
to the h o rs e s w e a re fl y i n g d own to w a r d th e b ay
T he a ir wa s d eli ght fu l an d b r e ez y , a ltho u gh t he

wi n d so m e ti m e s c a m e i n gu sts a n d sti rr e d u p t h e
d u st o f th e ro a d I n th e d i s t a nc e a r e th e p u rp l e
.

h i lls bl e a k a n d ru gg e d W h e r e a whi t e p a tch o n a

, ,

s ee m i ngl y i n a c c e ssi bl e p o i nt m e a ns a c o nvent r e tr e a t

O f so m e N e a p ol it a n s i st e rho o d O u t o n th e wi d e .

str ee ts wh i ch l e a d i nto t h e town th e r e w a s l i fe a n d

b u stl e a n d a ll th e si ghts a n d so u nd s O f h u m a n
,

a ctivi t y D o nk e ys wi th p a n ni e rs O f fr e sh gr e e n
.
,

v e g e t a bl e s o n e a ch S i d e b i gg e r th a n th e b e st o f
,

th e m w e r e trotti n g to th e m a rket -pl a c e th e i r g a yl y

, ,

stu d d e d h a rn e ss s u rmo u nt e d o n th e s a d d l e wi th b r a ss
w e a th e r-v a nes wh i ch a n sw e r p u rp o ses O f c o lo r a n d
,

u s e ful n e ss Littl e N e a p ol it a n ch i l d r e n si tti n g a t th e

.
,

d oo rs o f th e i r h o u s e s b ro n z e d a n d h a p p y w e r e b u s y ,

pl a i ti ng b a sk e ts ; wh il e th e o lde r gi rls wi th k e r ,

ch ie fs a n d l ittl e p e a s a nt c a ps s i t d e m u r e l y with th e i r
,

kn itti n g F a rth e r o n a m o ng the s u b u rb a n g a rd e ns

.
, ,
 NA P L E S AN D TH E M E D I TE R R A NE A N 3

a re th e Vill a s A n d to Sh ow h ow p e r fe ctl y i m p a rti a l

.

a n d h o nest a wo m a n c a n b e I a m wi lli ng to c o n fe ss
,

th a t t h e vi ll a s lo ok m u c h d i l a p i d a t e d Th e p i nk .

stu c c o i s fa lli ng O ff i n u nsi ghtl y p a tch e s a n d th e ,

g a rd e n s a r e ov e r ru n wi th w e eds m a ki n g a w i ld e rn e ss
,

o f o r a n ge a n d l e mo n — trees growi n g r a nk a n d wi l d
a m o ng th e p a l ms Th e n a mes o f th e Vi ll a s h a v e a
.

m o st tr a nsp l a nt e d l o o k a w a n d e ri ng a i r
, a s yo u,

r e a d o n th e p i ll a red g a tew a ys O f a n e gl e cted h a l f ,

ru i n e d m a ns i o n a n i nscri pti o n i n E n gli sh l e tt e rs ,

“ ”
V i ll a S w e e t H o m e
, .

O ne c a nno t i m a gi ne a s a dd e r Si ght th a n Po mp e i i .

I wi ll o nl y m entio n th e o n e th i n g wh i ch fo rc es yo u
to r e a lize th a t th i s still a n d qu i e t pl a c e o f th e d e a d
w a s o nc e fi ll e d with i ntens e l i fe a n d m ov e m e nt o f

th e s p l e nd i d Ol d Ro ma n d a ys Thi s i s th e p a v e ment
.

O f th e ro a dw a ys wh i ch i s wo rn a w a y i n d e e p ruts
, ,

W h e r e th e c h a ri ots o n c e roll e d i n thei r g r e a t p ro

c e ssi o ns Th e str e e ts a r e l i n e d with m a rbl e h o u s e s ;
.

the p a v e m e nts c o rri d o rs c o u rts a n d C h a mb e rs a r e

, , ,

so w e ll p rese rv e d th a t i n a d a y o r two wo rkm e n

c o u l d p u t th e m i n c o nd iti o n fo r o c cu p a ti o n Ti m e .

h a s sp r e a d ov e r th e fresco e d walls n o d i m v a rn i sh
of a m f m
'

d th e co l o r wh i ch t k e s i th e
'

g,e a n , a t s n a e r o

Ol d c i ty i s a s b ri ght to -d a y a s wh e n i t w a s l a i d On b y
,

th e Ro m a n a rti st N oth in g th a t N atu r e h a s wro u ght

.
,

ev e n i n I t a l y i s qu ite so p e rfect a s th e c o u ntry

,

a b o u t Po mp e i i Ther e i s su ch a p ro fus i o n Of w a vi n g
. .
4 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

p a l ms s u ch cl u m p s o f o r a nge a n d l e m o n tr e e s s u c h
, ,

m o ss y o l d b u i ld i ngs u nd e r a lu x u ri a nt tr e lli s O f
gr a p e s a n d l e a v e s a ltho u gh the d u st h a s wh it e n e d
,
‘

e a c h p o o r little l e a f a n d t h e su m m e r s u n h a s
,

sco rch e d a n d ye llow e d th e Vi nes I t wo u l d h a ve .

s e e m e d a p e r fe ct e nch a ntment to l ive th e re ; b u t

’
th e b u rni n g s m oki n g m o u nt a i n like a gri m d e a th s
, ,

h e a d i s a lw a ys p r e s e nt i n th e l a n dsc a p e p i c t u r
, ,

esqu e b e yo nd the p ow e r o f wo rd s to d e sc ri b e b u t ,

w e i rd a n d Op p r e ssiv e s o th a t w e sh iv e r e d wh en th e
,

fl a m e a n d s m ok e s e e m e d to sho ot u p m o r e b ri skl y ,

d rivi ng down th e fi r e a n d sto n e s i n o u r d i recti o n a n d ,

w e wo nder e d w hy th e h i ll dwellers o n i ts ston y Si d e s

-

d i d n ot se e m to m i n d i t a ltho u gh th e y m u st b e p o w
,

d er e d s now whit e a t ti m e s b y th e d u st y l a v a
- Some .

ti mes th e i r dw e lli n gs s e e m e nti r e l y blott e d o u t with

the d ense c lo u ds O f s m o k e ; b u t wh e n Ve suvi u s shows
a b ri g ht fl a m e a g a i nst th e eve n i n g s k th e p eo p l e
y ,

know i t fo r a w e lco m e Si gn N O e a rth qu a k e s e ver

.

o c c u r wi th th e m o u nt a i n i n e ru pti o n .

We p a ss e d h o u rs w a lki n g th ro u gh t h e exc a v a te d
streets wh er e th e y Sh o w yo u D i o m e d e s lo rdl y ho u s e
,
’

and the M u s e u m wh e r e th e p e tri fi e d Vi cti ms a r e

,

str e tch ed o u t i n th e i r d yi n g a go n i es i n gl a ss c a s es
, ,

g a z ed u p o n b y th e c u ri o u s a s i n a m o rgu e H e re i s
, .

the po o r h o u nd wh o me t t he sam e fa te a s h i s m a ste r ,

tu r ne d to sto ne h i s l e gs d r a wn u p i n a n a tti tu d e O f
,

m o st h i deo u s su fferi n g A n d we h u rry aw a y fro m

.
 NA P L E S AN D TI I E M E D I TE RR A NE A N 5

th e se p a i n fu l si ghts to A u gu stu s s T e m pl e wh e re w e ’

r e st e d a n d a t e o u r lu ncheo n gl a dl y o n th e ti l e d flo o r
i n th e ro o m wh e re th e p ri e st liv e d I t i s qu ite i m .

p ossib l e to s e e a l l th e i nteresti n g th i ngs i n Po mp ei i ,

b u t w e d o no t r e gr e t i t ; ther e r em a i ns e n o u gh to
fo rm a n i mp r e ssive s o uv e n i r Po m p e i i i s the o p e n
.

s e s a m e to the a n c i e nt wo rl d as i f b y m a gi c t he p a st
,

h a s b ee n su m m o n e d to a pp e a r b e fo r e u s a n d o n e i s ,

i nstru cted a n d i nterest e d h ere b e yo nd a n y p l a c e i n

all th e wo rl d .

We h a v e m a n y th ings to a tt e n d to b e fo re t a ki ng
t h e Shi p l e tt e rs to wri t e
, b oxes to l a b el ; a n d s o
,

-
r e tu rn i n h a st e fo r to m o rrow we wi ll b e s a yi n g
, ,

“ ”
A dd i o , l a b ella N a p o li .

D e ce mber 6 .

A gre a t bl a ck sh ip l a y at a n cho r o ff th e c u rvi n g

sh o r e s o f th e B a y o f N a p les ; a n d o n th e c rowd e d
wh a r f a m o ng th e co r a l ve n d ers o r a ng e st a lls a n d
, , ,

i dl e s a ilo rs w e re th r e e A m e r i c a ns gu a rd i n g n u m e r
, ,

o u s b ox e s a n d p a ck a g e s to b e p u t o n b o a rd th e

I n d i a n st e a m e r b y th e littl e tu g fl yi ng th e P e n i n ,

su l r
a a n d O ri e nt l c olo rs
a — a s qu a r e c h eck e red ,

W i th b l u e wh it e yellow a n d r e d
, , ,
— on h e r m a sts .

“ ”
O n b o a rd th e C hu s a n t h e d i m e n si o ns a r e m o r e
,

thos e o f a n i m m ens e ya cht h a l f th e si z e o f o u r

,

e no rm o u s A tl a nti c ste a m ers b u t fo r th a t m a tt e r

,

m u ch m o r e a gr ee a bl e h a vi n g n o th robb i n g m oti o n
,

o f p o w er fu l m a chi nery o r th e c o nti nu a l sh iver O f

6 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

th e s crew H e r to n n a g e r e gisters o nl y
. wh i ch
w e w e re s u rp ri s e d to fi n d i n a sh i p st a n c h eno u gh

to t a ke u s th ro u gh th e M e d it e rr a n e a n d own th e ,

R e d S e a a n d ov e r the I nd i a n O c e a n A n u mb e r
, .

o f n a tives ,L a s c a rs H i nd u s a n d M a h o m et a ns li ne
, ,

A ll th e s a i lo rs a r e O ri e nt a ls
’
the shi p s d e ck .
,

a s well a s th e stoke rs ; a n d th e ro u gh wo rk o f
the shi p i s do n e b y L a sc a rs fo r E ngl ish s e a m e n ,

wo u ld b e u tt e rl y u nfit fo r t h e c l i m a t e we a r e c o m
i n g to i n a fe w d a ys T he n a tiv e s a i lo rs were i n
.

m ost s u m m e ry a tti r e w e a ri ng p i ctu r e s qu e r e d tu r

,

b a ns with wh it e tro u s e rs r e a ch i ng sc a r c e l y to th e i r
,

b a r e b rown k n e es a n d so m e ti m e s a sc a nt ov e r g a r
,
-

m e nt gi rd l e d a b o u t with g a yl y c o lo r e d s a sh e s I n .

th e l a rg e a n d w e ll -li ght e d s a lo o n b el ow th e p a s
’

’
s e n g e r s w e re h a vi n g fo u r O clo ck t e a a n d h u gel y ,

enj o yi n g th e m s e lves ; b u t m ost o f o u r fe llow p a s

s e n g e r s h a d l a nd e d h e re t O S C C N a p l e s a n d b re a k
'

the m o no to no u s j o u rn e y fro m Lo n do n Th e s mo k .

i ng -ro o m s a r e l a r g e a n d a i ry t he d e cks a r e cle a n

, ,

wi th wi d e p ro m e n a d es re a ch i n g a l mo st fro m ste m
!

to st e rn ; a n d wh e n we fi n a ll y ex p lo re o u r c a b i n ,

a n d fi n d i t w e ll l i ghte d b y a b i g s qu a re p o rt h o le
-
,

ro o m y a n d l u x u ri o u s with t a b l e a n d eve n ch a i rs
, , ,

w e b egi n to thi nk o u r fl o a ti ng h o m e fo rth es e n e xt

fo u r weeks p rom i s e s well — and ,
so i t p roves .

Pe n i ns u l a r a n d O ri e nt a l O ffi c e rs a r e a v e r y st e a d y ,

wel l -tr a i ne d set of m e n ; b u t with all th e stri ct d i s

 NA P L E S AND TH E Al E D I TE R R A N E A /V .
7

c i p li n e p r e v a i li n g o n b o a rd th e c a pt a i n s e e m s to ru n
,

th e sh ip fo r th e p l e a su re O f th e p a ss e ng e rs fo rm i ng ,

wi th hi s O fic e rs
f a f
sel a pp o i nt e d c o m mitt e e to p ro
-

vi d e e n d l e s s a m u se m e nts The . A n glo I n di a ns o n

-

b o a rd a ls o j o i n wi th r e a l E ngl i sh z e st i n g a m e s o f
q u o its wh e r e yo u e nd e a vo r to throw ri ngs O f ro p e
,

i nto b u ck e ts p l a c e d a fe w ya rd s a p a rt o n th e deck .

I t requ i r e s ski ll a n d p a ti en c e to su c c e e d ; a n d th e n ,

“
i f yo u l ik e th e r e i s t he g a m e O f
, Bu ll Wh o th a t
.

h a s b e e n o n a Peni ns u l a r a n d O ri ent a l st e a mer eve r

“ ”
fo rg e ts th e ex c i t e m e nt O f a B u l l to u rn a m e nt i n ,

wh i ch h a l f-a -d oz e n o r m o r e p l a yers striv e to c ov e r ,

i n tu rn o n e o f te n n u mb e rs o n a n i ncli n e d b o a rd ;
,

no e a s y t a sk when th e sh i p i s rolli n g a n d tossi n g

a bout . A do ub l e c a nv a s str e tch es over o u r h e a d s ,

and sh a d e s th e s u n n y s i d e O f th e deck Und e r .

these a wn i n gs so m e th i n g i s a l w a ys go i n g o n ,

p le a s a nt c h a ts i n qu i et c o rn e rs m u s i c o n th e p i a no
,

i n th e c o m p ni o n w a y s a lo o n p e opl e l yi ng o u t i n
a -
,

E a st e rn b a mb o o ch a i rs r e a d i ng th e st a id Engl i sh
,

m a tro n s qu i e tl y enj o yi n g th e s e ri o u s b u si n e ss o f a
rubb e r a t wh i st ; s o th e d a s p a ss
y Th e w e.a th e r
c l e a re d u p d i rectl y w e l e ft N a pl e s ; a n d si n ce the n
the s e a h a s b e e n v e ry sm ooth qu it e l ike th e l a z y
,

H u d so n i n s u m m e r Th e fi rst m o rni ng o u t fro m

.

N a p l e s w e p a ss e d qu i te clos e to S i c i l y a n d st e a m ed
,

Slowl y th ro u gh th e S tr a its o f M e ss i n a Fa r ov e r .

the qu i e t w a ters o n e co u ld tr a c e the l ittl e wh it e

8 ow z s WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A IN .

dwelli ngs cl i n gi n g to th e h illsi d e wh i c h w e w e re i n

,

form e d w a s the b u s y town O f M e ss i n a I t does n o t .

s e e m fro m th i s d i st a nce to b e i n t h e l e a st a sti r o r ,

d o i ng a n yth i ng els e b u t dr e a m i n g i n t h e su nsh i n e .

A ll hush e d — there is n o t a bre e ze i n mo ti o n ;

”
T h e sh o re is sile n t a s t he o ce a n .

L a te r i n the a ftern o o n we co uld tr a c e wh e re Etn a

cou l d b e s een had i t no t b e e n cover e d i n wh ite
,

fl e e c y v e i ls d Z A m b e
’

, O n a n e a rer V i e w th e fa i n t
.

b lu e li ne r e sti ng s o l i ghtl y o n t h e ho ri z on wo u ld h a v e
m a teri a l iz ed i n to t h e Is l a nd o f C r e t e B u t all th e .

b e st fi e l d -gl a ss e s o n b o a rd fa iled to d isc over fo r u s

t h e h a v e n O f C r e t e ; a n d a ltho u gh t h e s o uth wi n d

b l ew so ftl y t h e m o dern m a ri n e rs ri sked not th e

,

te m pe stu o u s b ree z e c a lle d E u ro cl yd on wh i ch tossed

, ,

t h e A l e x a n d ri a n c a p t a i n s a il i ng i nto It a l y Who s e .

Sh i p w a s c a u ght a n d co u l d n ot b e a r u p i n to th e
,

wi nd s o w e l e t h e r d rive
,
Thi s i s S t P a u l s n a utic a l
.
’

repo rt o f h i s sh i p wr e ck T h e o rd i n a ry w e ath e r a lon g

.

th i s sh o r e i s fright ful ; a n d i t i s a lw a ys a c h a nc e i f
a s u d d e n t e m p est ma y n ot c o m e t e a ri n g d own u p
’
on the sh i p bri ngi n g u s th e s a m e fa t e a s C ae s a r s
,

p ri so n e r B u t to -d a y th e s u n a n d s e a a r e woo i n g
.

B rito m a rtis ( a C r e t a n n ym p h wh o th r e w h e rs el f
,

i nto t h e w a v e s j u st a t th i s v e ry spo t ! a n d a r e o n ,

th e i r very b est b eh a vio r T he s l y d e c e i t fu l l ittl e

.
, ,

ri pples l o ok v e ry h a rm l ess i n th ei r c a l m bl u e depth s ,

 IO A GI RL ’
S WI IV TE R IN I ND I A .

o f E ngl a n d to -n i ght Th e y ha ve b ee n fe a r fu ll y di s
.

“ ”
t u r b e d b y th e ri ght o f w a y wh ic h the En gl ish ,

C hu rch c l a i m s o n a l l P e n i nsu l a r a n d O ri e nt a l b o a ts ;
and ,
e s p ec i a ll y th ey h a v e now gre a t c a u s e fo r d i s
,

c o nt e nt i n th e persec u ti o n they su ffe r fro m th e d a i l y

Engl ish m o rn i n g s e rvi c e .

Th e m o r e I s e e o f the s h ip s peop le the mo re I ’

l ik e th e m A t th e he a d o f o u r t a bl e s i ts a c o m
.

m i ss i o n e d o ffi c e r fro m A ss a m t h e h i gh b o rd e rl a n d ,

Of th e H i m a l a yas ; n ext th e Q u een s atto rn e y ,

’

g e ner a l o f H o n g Ko n g ; th e n a t e a p l a n t e r wh o
, , ,

h a s l iv e d ye a rs i n C e ylo n b e e n a r es i dent i n C hi n a , ,

a nd whos e p res e nt o c c u p a ti o n i s u nkn own Our .

c o m p a n i o n s a t t a b l e a r e fr e qu e ntl y q u i te i n th e
d a rk r e g a rdi n g th e th i ngs Wh i ch we A m eri c a ns t a l k
“
a bout . Wh a t i s a cl a m ? a sked a S cotch m a n ,

“
wh o i s go i n g to C e ylo n I s i t a s m a ll ki n d o f .

a pp l e ? Th i s a p ro p o s O f o u r descri pti o n o f fri ed

,

a n d s c a llop ed clam s b ro u ght o u t a pe a l o f l a u ghter

,

fro m th e E n gl i sh wh o a r e n o t suppo s e d to b e e a s i l y
,

m ov e d to si gns Of s u rp ri se o r a m u se m ent i n pu b li c ;
b u t I fi n d th e m g y
a a n d go o d -h u m o red a n d a
pp r e ,

c i a t iv e f
go o d sto r y A s h ip s O ffi c er tol d th e ’
o a .

followi n g a t di n n e r l a st e ven i n g
A S a r u le a l l engi ne e rs o n ste a m e rs a r e S c otch
,

m en ; a n d o nce a ma n wagered h e c o u l d go d own i n

t h e e ngi n e room a n d c a ll o u t M a c a n d som e o n e
’
, ,

wo u l d a nswer Then h e went to the d o o r o f th e

.
 N AP LE S AN D TH E M E D I TE R R A NE A N 11

engi n e roo m a n d c a ll e d lo u dl y M a c !
, ,
‘ ’
No o n e
r ep li ed u nti l a fte r a p a u s e s o m e o n e s p o ke u p
, ,

”
‘
M o n wh i c h o f the five M a cs d o yo u m e a n ?
,

We a r e ste a m i n g very slowl y o nl y twelve m i les a n

,

h o u r ; a n d a ft e r three i mp a ti ent d a ys we s a i l u p to
Po rt S ai d an d the entr a nce to th e gre a t C a nal .
12 A GI RL ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

C H A PTE R I I .

P O RT S A I D A N D T H R O U G H T H E S U EZ C A N A L .

P O RT S A I D , D e c e m ber IO .

E re a che d Po rt S a i d ye sterd a y at tw e lve

’
O clo ck i n a p o u ri n g r a i n ; b u t wh e n o u r
,

b i g an cho r w a s l e t d own th e s u n c a m e o u t a l i ght

, ,

b re e z e temp ere d th e m id -d a y h e a t a n d Po rt S a i d , ,

with i t s ri c h re d so i l a n d c l u m p s o f b ri lli a nt p a l ms ,

was b e fo re u s ma ki ng a sp len d i d c o ntr a st t o th e

,

sea . W h a t we s a w w a s a low d i rty town with t h e, ,

s e a ru n ni n g qu ite c lo se to i ts p ri n c ip a l str e et wh e re ,

th e s a i ls o f a ll c o lo rs a n d n a ti o n a l iti e s w e re c rowd e d
clo se to th e h a b it a ti o ns O f th e ch i ld r e n O f th e so i l .

L ittl e b o a ts with th e i r A r a b i a n own ers c rowded

a ro u n d the sh i p fo r th e ch a nc e o f t a ki n g u s o n
,

sh o re We h a ve ent e re d qu i te well u p i n t h e C a n a l
. .

N e a r u s a r e m a n y sh ip s ; a n d a Tu rki sh ma n o f w a r - -

ru ns u p h er c resc e n t wh ile a c o m p a ni o n sh i p t h e
, ,

”
S h a n no n i s u nd ergo i ng the p ro c ess O f co a l i n g
, ,

wh i c h so u nds p ro s a i c eno u gh b u t i s m o st i nt e resti n g

,
.

’
F a nc y a low b l a ck b a rge cl ose u p to the sh ip s
Si d e s c o n nect e d with i t b y bl a ck pl a nks over wh i ch
, ,

m en p a ss u p a n d d own l ik e d a rk fl a sh es th e c o a l ,
 P OR T S A I D AND TH E S UE Z CA NA L .
I 3

d u st o u triv a lli ng the i r d u sk y ski ns a ll d r e ss e d a li k e

,

i n gho u li sh g a r m e nts wi t h bl a ck s c a r fs flo a ti n g fr o m
,

th e i r he a ds I n e v e r s a w a n ythi n g m o re i m p i sh th a n
.

th e se swi ft c r e a tu r e s O f d a rkn e ss a p p e a ri ng a n d d is
“ ”
a p p e a ri ng qu i ckl y fro m th e d e pths o f the S h a nno n ,

c a rr yi ng b l a ck b a skets gri m y with th e co a l fro m

,

y e a rs O f servi c e .

Th e n ext a ffa i r w a s l a nd i n g B a n d I h a d lo ng
. .

ago grown ti r e d o f th e c o nfi n e me nt o f th e shi p ;

a n d we a re to st a y h e r e si x h o u rs to c o a l SO .

we a r e row e d a cro ss th e littl e b it O f m u dd y w a t e r

to Po rt S a i d fo r a n ex o rb it a nt s u m b y A r a b
, ,

b o a tm e n i n g a y a n d fa nt a sti c h e a d -g e a r With u s .

w a s a yo u n g G e r m a n O ffi c e r a n d a C hu rch o f En g

l a n d r e cto r O n h i s w a y to th e C hu rch coll e g e a t

,

A gr a . Po rt S a i d i s a p i ctu re o f d i sco m fo rt a n d
m is e ry N O o n e b u t t h e wild A r a bs l iv e h e r e o n th e
.

b o rders O f th e d e s e rt wh e re noth i n g grows th a t I

,

c a n p erc e iv e e x c e pt th e e ve r — p res e nt p a l m -tr e e s th a t ,

d o thei r b e st to a do r n th e qu ee r l ittl e str a ggl i n g

town th a t i s strivi ng fo r e x i st e n c e B e n e a th o u r.

fe et a r e m a n y i nch e s O f r e d a n d m u dd y so i l b u t th e ,

stre e ts a r e nov e l a n d p i ctu r e s qu e We a r e i n A fr i c a

.

i nd e ed — , a n A fri c a O f v e il e d wo m e n e a ch w e a ri n g ,

a gr e a t b r a ss tu b e ov e r h e r fo r e h e a d j u st b et w e e n

th e e ye s th e b ett e r to co n c e a l h e r fe a tu res a n d
, ,

c l a d i n so mb r e d r a p e ry o f bl a ck o r d a rk blu e ove r
h e a d a rms a n d th e e n ti r e fi gu re the b etter to fo llow
, , ,
I 4 A GI R L ’
S WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

’
ou M a h o m e t s c o m m a n d th a t th e wo m e n sh o u l d b e
t

ke p t i n s e clu si o n A qu a rt e r o f th e town w a s o c
.

c u pie d b y th e m a rk e t -wo m e n wh o s qu a tted a lo ng ,

th e ro a dsi d e a m o n g d i rty ru gs a n d h e a p s O f green

,

v e get a b l e s a n d s ol d ch i co r y o r a ng e s a n d fish
, , , .

S o m e o n e p ro p o sed a d o nk e y r i d e a n d i t s e e m e d ,

a m ost a ttr a ctiv e s u gg e sti o n S O we c o m m u n i c a t e d .

our i nt e nti o ns to t h e n e a r est d o nk e y

-b o
y a n d so o n ,

h a d th e whol e town ru n n i n g a ft e r u s with th e i r

d o nk e ys scre a mi ng i n b rok e n E n g lish th e m erits O f
,

th e i r b e a sts D o nk e ys s e e m e d to bl ow fro m e v e r y
.

qu a rt e r O f th e he a v e ns a t o n c e I t w a s d e mo r a l .

i z i n g E a c h ma n w a s
. as k e en a n d so rd i d a b o u t th e
s u i t a bl e c o mp e ns a ti o n fo r a d o nk e y ri de a s i n th e

m ost c ivi liz e d co m m u ni ty The A r a b i a n d o nk e y .

m e n a r e t a ll with b e a u ti fu l e r e ct c a rri a g e sh a p e l y
, ,

b a re a rm s a n d le gs wi th s o m e so rt o f co a rse wh it e
,

d r a p ery wo rn a bo u t th e i r b o di es c ov e ri n g th e m ,

fro m sho u ld e r to kn e e i n fol ds wh i c h wo u ld d e li gh t

a s c u l pto r Th e gen e r a l a p p e a r a nc e o f th e d o nk e ys
.

w a s fo rlo rn th e s a d dl e s sh a bb y b e yo n d d e s c r i pti o n
, ,

a lth o u gh th e y l o ok e d a s i f I n th ei r b e st d a ys th e
y
h a d b e e n v e r y p ret e n ti o u s with gold e mb ro i d e r y
d si l ver t a ss e ls T h e d o nk e ys k n ow th e i r own e rs ’
an .

vo i ces a s w e l l a s p ossibl e a n d a nsw e r to every c r y ,

a n d ki ck O f e nc o u r a ge m ent fro m th ei r d riv e rs a s th e y

s c a m p er a lo n g E a ch d o nke y h a d i ts n a m e ! m i n e
.

w a s M rs L a n gtr y B s P a rn ell and a n o t he r w a s

.
, .
’
,
'
 P OR T S A I D AND TH E S UE Z C A NA L .
I S

Wh a t a p a i r O f lov e l y b l a c k e ye s Th e y e vi d e ntl y .

h a ve c a u ght th i s l a tter exp r e ssi o n fro m h a vi ng h e a r d

i t so O ft e n a p p li e d to th e ms e lv e s I m a gi n e o u r .

d o nk e ys g a llo p i ng a lo ng a n d t h e A r a b s ru nni n g
,

b e si d e th e m o u t o n th e o c e a n O f s a n d I t w a s a
, .

d e so l a t e c o u ntr y w e p a ss e d thro u gh a s c a tt e r e d ,

A r a b dw e lli n g h e r e a n d th e re o r a m osqu e fa rthe r ,

o n ; a n d th e m o st p op u lo u s pl a c e s e e m e d to b e th e

A ra b b u r yi ng -g r o u n d wh e r e th e p o o r wr e tch e d n a
,

t i v e s a r e b ro u ght i n gr e a t n u mb e rs fro m th e i r m a l a

ri o n s fe v e r stri ck e n Po rt S a i d N O gr e e n tr e e s o r
,
- .

b u shes g r ow i n th e d ist a nt s a nd y m i l e s b e fo r e u s ; o nl y
a n i m m e ns e so litu d e a c ob a lt S ky
, a n d th e ye llo w ,

d e s e rt s a n d T h e A r a b s h a ve a m ost a c u te s e ns e o f
.

”
h u m o r a n d a p p l y th e n a m e o f M r M a sh e r to o u r
,
.

y o u n g r e cto r who ,i s v a stl y a m u s e d Go o n M rs .

,
.

”
L a n g tr y sh ri e ks th e A r a b wh e n h er n a m e s a k e
, ,

“ ’
a tt e m p ts to l a g or sl a ck e n t h e p a c e Don t let .

” “
M r P a rn e ll g e t a h e a d
. .H i h i w a lk a lo n g L a
, , ,

”
b o u c he r e i s a dd r e ss e d to a sto u t littl e d o nk e y b e
,

tw e e n blows fro m th e d ri v e r s sti c k I n v a i n d i d I

’
.

fee l my d i gnity w a s fa st di s a p p e a ri n g with e v e r y i n c h

o f the ro a d ; i n v a i n w a s I w a rn e d b y str e a m in g h a i r

a n d fl o a ti ng b its o f a p p a r e l I t w a s a ll to o p e r fe ctl y
.

e n c h a nti ng to c a r e fo r a pp e a r a n c e s a n d I c o u ld h a v e ,

g a llo p e d o n fo r e v e r Ev e r y o n e w a s so rry wh e n i t
.

c a m e ti m e to r e tu rn ; b u t i t c o nsol e d u s a l ittl e to
p a rt a ke o f Tu rkish c o ffe e b e fo re l e a vi n g a n d l a y ,
I 6 A a mp s WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

i n a sto c k o f fa ns fo r th e Re d S e a Th e sh ip i s .

h a u l i n g u p a nch o r a n d d i n ne r i s s erved s o I wi ll
, ,

p u t u p th e j o u rn a l fo r to d a y a n d sp e n d th e eve n
,

i ng lo oki n g o u t u p o n the C a n a l G o o d n i ght Po rt

.
,

Sa id .

D e cem ber 12 .

Po rt S a i d owes i ts n a m e to a n Egypti a n P a sh a ,

a n d i ts ex i st e nc e to t h e S u e z C a n a l ; its p o rt fo rm i ng

th e e ntr a nc e to th e C a n a l fro m t h e M e d i t e rr a n e a n S e a .

Th e re i s a d e c i d e d b u stl e a n d a i r O f a ctivity i n the

p l a c e fro m th e n o i s e O f A r a b s b ri n g i ng co a l to the
,

shi p s a n d th e d a i l y d e p a rtu r e O f to u ri sts to th e d i ffe r

,

e nt p o rts o f t h e H o l y L a n d S yri a a n d th e E a st
, , .

D e Less e ps h a s s a i d th a t d u ri ng h i s st a y i n Eg ypt ,

a s co nsu l fo r t h e Fren c h gov e rn m e nt h e c o n c e ive d

,

th e i d e a O f b r i n gi ng th e two h u n d r e d m i lli o ns O f
.

Eu ro p e a ns a n d t h e s e v e n h u nd re d m i lli o ns O f A s i
a t i c s i n clos e r r e l a ti o nsh ip b y th e e r e cti o n O f a s e a
,

c a n a l a c ro ss th e I sth m u s o f S u e z Th i s w a s i n t h e .

e r 8 5 6 d u nti l i ts c o m pl e ti o n i n 8 6 th e gr e t
“

y a 1 ; a n 1 9 a ,

Fr e nch e ngi n e e r e n co u nt e r e d d i ffi cu lti es fi n a nci a l ,

a n d p o l iti c a l wh i c h wo u ld h a v e d e t e rr e d t h e m o st
,

“ ’
o pti m i sti c En gl ish m a n .N otre e ntr e p ri s e n a qu e
d e u x e n ne m i s l e s a b l e e t l e s p a c e s a i d a n e n t h u s i
,
’

,
’

a s t i c Fren ch m a n b u t these were m u t e a n d tr a ct a b l e

e ne m i es m e re n oth i n gs to th e h o sti le fo rc e s to b e
,

o verc o m e — the o p p o si ti o n o f th e O tto m a n Po rt e

,

“ ”
an d E ngl a nd s s e a led c o ffers
’
B u t th e m a gneti c
.
 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

We l e a ve Po rt S a i d d u ri n g d i nn e r a n d a t o n c e ,

e nter t he C a n a l A striki n g m o m ent i t w a s — to

.

my m i nd th e gr a nd e st o f th e j o u r n e y
, D u ri n g th e .

ev e ni n g w e go o n d e ck and lo ok o u t o n th e e l e ctri c ,

l i ght wh i ch i s p l a ce d i n o u r b o w a n d c a n b e see n
, ,

fo r m i l e s A n e xtr a p i lo t h a s a ls o b e e n t a ken O n
.

b o a rd a n d a su it a b l e r u d d e r ; a ll th r e e will b e l e ft a t
,

S u e z A s a n d sto r m a pp ro a ch e s l a t e r a n d a h i gh
.
,

wi nd ha s a ri s e n Th e c a pt a i n h a s o rd e r e d t h e sh i p
.

ti e d u p N a tiv e s g o a sh o r e a n d fa st e n t he C h u s a n to
.

o n e O f the b i g shi p p o sts th a t l i ne th e C a na l fo r th i s

p u rp os e ; and s a n d th i ck l ik e a fo g i s a b o u t u s fi ll
, , ,

i n g o u r e yes a n d e very n o ok O f t h e ste a m e r wi th t h e

l ittl e gli nti n g p a rti cles We p a ss th e e v e n i n g wi th
.

g a m e s s i ngi n g a n d p riv a t e th e a tri c a ls i n wh i ch

, , ,

ever y o n e c o ntrib u t e s a n d wi n d u p with a S w e d i sh,

d a n c e so m eth i ng l i ke o u r V i rgi ni a R e e l Fro m my .

c a b i n wi ndow i n th e b ri ght m o o nl i ght I c a n d i sti n

, ,

gu i sh fil e s o f r a ts c ro ssi n g a n d r e -c ro ssi n g th e h u g e
ro p e s wh i ch fa ste n o u r sh ip to th e sh o re d r a wn ,

cle a rl y a g a i nst t h e sh a ft O f el e ctri c li ght sh i ni n g fro m

t h e b ows a s th e a nc i e nt r a ts e mb ro i d e red Pro ser
,

’
p i ne s vei l .

Up with th e a nch o r a n d b e fo re s ev e n O cl ock ,

’

n ext m o rni n g we a r e o ff o nc e m o re Fro m t h e .

d e ck w e s e e L a k e M e n z a l a h o n b oth s i d e s th e n ,

thro u gh th e n a rrow p a rt O ften n o t m o re th a n ,

s ev e nty fi v e feet wi de The who l e d a y w e tr a verse

- .
 P OR T S A I D AND TH E S UE Z CA NA L . 19

the sol e m n q u i e t d e s e rt I th i nk e v e ry o n e who

, .

h a s m a d e th e j o u rn e y wi ll a gre e with m e th a t th e
gr e a t sh i p m ovi n g thro u gh th e s i lent d e s e rt i s th e
gr a nd e st e xp e ri e n ce o n e h a s eve r h a d T h e C hu .

sa n m a k e s s i x m i l e s a n h o u r thro u gh th e C a n a l a n d
o n th e s a nd y b a nks w e c a n s ee th e m ovi n g fi gu r e s O f

piti fu l h a l f c l a d A r a b s wh o k ee p u p well wi th th e sh i p
-
, ,

”
a n d C l a p th e i r b o n y h a nds c r yi n g ,
b a c ksh e e sh k ee p ,

i ng st e p i n ti m e with a str a ng e u n e a rthl y h u m Th e , .

E ngli sh p e n ni e s th rown fro m t h e d e ck a r e fo llow e d

with e a gl e e ye s a n d s e i z e d b e fo r e th e y r e a ch th e
,

s a nd H ow th e s e b a rb a ri a ns ex i st o n t h e e dg e O f
.

th e d e s e rt , no t a Si gn O f a h u m a n dw e lli n g o r
a gr e e n thi ng fo r m i l e s n othi n g b u t u ni nt e rru pt e d
,

w a st e O f s a n d — n o o n e c o u l d t e ll u s
, .

Th e s a n d stor m h a s b e e n d is a stro u s a lo n g th e
ro u t e . A Ru ssi a n ma n O f— - wa r and sti ll a noth e r ,

P e ni nsu l a r a n d O ri e nt a l b o a t a r e ti e d u p o r ,

a gro u n d i n th e s a nd bl own o u t O f the n a rrow

,

ch a n n e l . A s we go o n a b o a t fro m I sm a il i a
,

c o m e s to t a k e o ff p a ssengers fo r C a i ro wh o ,

fl i ng b c k m n y
a a a go o d b y to tho s e l e ft st a n d
-

i n g b y th e sh ip s r a i l i n g wat c h i n g th e tu g st e a m
’

a wa y a n d fi n a ll y d is a pp e a r Th e town i s su p p l i e d
.

with fre sh w a t e r b y a c a n a l fro m C a i ro a n d lo oks ,

v e r y p r e tty fro m th is d i st a nc e with its gr ee n cl u m p s ,

O f p a l m -tr e e s a n d sh rubb e r
y
— a wild e rn e ss m a d e to
bl osso m fo r th e pl e a su re o f th e Kh ed iv e Th e l ittl e .
20 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

B itt e r L a k e s — c a ll e d fro m a c ert a i n a lk a l i c o n

so

t a i n e d i n th e w a ters — a r e now wi d e n i n g b e fo r e u s .

It w a s h er e th a t th e w a t e rs O f th e R e d S e a a n d th e
M e d i t e rr a n e a n m e t ; a n d so m e o n e h a s r e m a rke d
“
th a t th e i r r e sp e ctive fish e s m u st h a ve b e e n r a th e r
a sto n i sh e d to m a ke a c qu a i nt a nc e T h e w a ters o f
.

th e M e d it e rr a n e a n a r e s a lt e r th a n th e A tl a nti c a n d ,

the R e d S e a s a lter still d u e I b e li ev e to the gr e a t

,

ev a p o r a ti o n whic h t a kes p l a c e u nd e r a tro p i c a l s u n ,

n o fr e sh w a t e r s u p p l yi n g its p l a c e I n Old e n ti m e s .

th e Re d Sea e xte n d ed to t he B itte r L a k e s ; an d it

wa s ther e th e Isr a e l ites c ro ssed i t T h e n o rthern
,
.

p o rti o n O f thi s s e a i s n ow c a lle d t h e Gu l f O f S u e z .

W e a r e a pp ro a chi ng M e c c a ; n ot fa r a w a y l i e s
J u d e a a n d o n th e othe r h a n d i s t h e l a n d o f th e
,

wo rsh i p o f I si s a n d O si ri s Th e R e d S e a i s a gre a t
.

c o ntr a d i cti o n i n c o lo r N O o n e h a s e xp l a i n e d i ts
.

“
n a m e u nl e ss R e d m e a ns fi e r y ; a lth o u gh m a n y
,
’

hi sto ri a ns a gr e e th a t i t t a kes its n a m e fro m t he sho r e s

wh i c h b o rd e r t he d esert , and a re red dish i n c o lo r .

Th e sc e n e r y h e r e i s m o st p ec u l i a r b a r e h ills with ,

o u t a s i ngl e tr e e o r tr a c e O f veg e t a ti o n to b e s e e n i n
a n y d i r e c ti o n .Mt S i n a i i s b e fo r e u s ! we s e e its
.

s u m m it v e r y cl e a rl y a ltho u gh t h e c a p t a i n s a ys i t i s
,

t w o m il e s fro m th e sh o re I t i s not t h e h i gh e st p e a k
.

Of th e m o u nt a i n r a n ge b y a n y m e a n s b u t o n e O f a ,

gro u p O f th r e e a n d lowe r th a n its c o m p a nion M o u nt

, ,

S t C a th eri n e A clo u d i s resti n g there very so ftl y

. .
,
 P OR T S A I D A /VD TH E S UE Z CA NA L . 21

and a l m ost hi des i ts fa c e a s i n a nc i e nt ti m es th e r e

,

a pp e a r e d ov e r th e M o u nt a th i ck clo u d b e c a u se o f

th e P res e n c e th e r e W e c a n no t s e e th e pl a i n wh e r e
.

th e ch i ld r e n O f I sr a e l w e r e e nc a m p e d b u t the fo r ,

m a ti o n O f th e c o u ntr y i s ex a c tl y th a t d e sc rib e d i n
S c ri p tu r e e s p eci a ll y wher e th e ch i ld r e n o f I sr a e l
,

c ross e d th e R e d S e a Yo u c a n se e th e r e w a s o nl y
.

o n e thi n g to d o — m o u nt a i ns i n th e so uth h e m m e d
th e m i n o n the no rth th e Eg yp ti a n a rm y w a s
,

sw e e p i ng d own i n gre a t n u mb e rs fo r c i ng th e m to ,

“
p a ss thro u g h th e s e a a s a l a st r e so rt O n the .

b o rd e rs O f th e d esert w e r e so m e g r e a t c a mel s l yi n g ,

d own wi th th e i r h u g e b u rd e ns r e sti n g fro m th e lo ng

,

“
j o u rn e y Th e y lo ok e d t h e p e r fe ct
. shi p s o f th e
d e s e rt a s th e y a r e s o O ft e n c a ll e d
, .

Th e y t e ll u s thi s i s qu it e e x c e pti o n a l w e a th e r
fo r thi s p o rti o n O f t h e j o u rn e y ; o u r c a b i n th e r
mo me t e r s r e gist e r o nl y and o n d e ck i t i s
°
e v e n l e ss o nl y 6 5 i n th e sh a d e
,
Th i s s e a i s
.

“
s u p p o sed b y tr a vellers to b e th e h o tt e st p l a c e
i n the wo r l d th e wi nd i s gen e r a ll y l ik e a S i r oc c o ,

a n d th e w a ter bec o mes s o h eat e d th a t it o ft e n s e ri

o u s l y i nt e r fe r e s wi th th e c o nd e ns a ti o n o f st e a m .

D u ri n g th e hot s e a so n th e h e a t b e c o m e s s o
,
in
”
t e nse th a t h e r e o n th e C hu s a n si x p erso ns h a v e
o ft e n d i e d i n o n e m o rni ng fr o m s u nstrok e o r a p o
p l e x y Th e c a p t a i n s a i d e xp r e ss iv e l y th i s m o rn i ng
.

th a t m e n s o m e ti m e s d i e d o n th e t a bl es wh i ch w e r e
22 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

a fterw a rd s set fo r b re a k fa st O ft e n a l l the stok e rs

.

a n d e n g i n e ers a r e d own a n d th e r e r e m a i ns n o o n e to
,

k e e p u p th e fires C ert a i n ly the b a kers a n d stok e rs

.

h a ve th e h a rd e st ti m e A lr e a d y t h e O ffi c e rs a r e b e
.

gi nn in g to a pp e a r i n white d uck tro u s e rs a n d v e ry

zzé /z é a tti re ;
'

g g w hi l e th e A nglo -I n d i a ns who h a v e ,

r e a l iz ed th e i d e a l o f c o m fo r t a r e w e a ri ng l a rge T e r a i
,

h a ts wh it e si lk sh i rts a n d sh o w a dec i d e d d i sli ke fo r

, ,

a n y Vi ol ent e x erc is e .

O n S u n d a y mo rn i n g t h e s e r v i é e w a s c o n d u ct e d
on d e c k b y t h e R e v M r H a n d a nother
. . The . .

o ffic ers a n d st e w a rds a n d t h e seco n d c a b i n p a s

s e n g e r s c a m e u p to a tt e n d i t Th e re a r e s i xte e n
.

m i ssi o n a ri es i n t he s e c o n d c a b i n b e si d e s t h e clergy
o n b o a rd ,o n e O f wh o m go es o u t to I n d i a a s p ri n

c i pa l O f a n a tiv e hi gh c a st e c o ll e g e a t A gr a with
-
,

fo u r h u nd re d stu d ents A ll o v e r th e sh i p a l iv e l y
.

c o nve rs a ti o n i s k e p t u p o n t h e s ubj e ct o f m i ss i o n s
a s u bj e ct qu it e str a n g e to t h e u su a l t a lk o n
st e a m ers b u t a ro u se d b y t h e p r e s e nc e o n b o a rd o f
,

s o m a n y z e a lots wh o s e e m to c a l l o u t sp ec i a l a n t a
, g
o n s m fro m th e A n gl o I n di a ns ev e r
i - ti me th e i r sti ff
y
wh ite c oll a rs a n d b ro a d -b ri m m e d h a ts a p p e a r i n Vi e w .

Th e gener a l o p i ni o n O f resi d e nts n e a r th e m iss i o n

fi eld s s e em s to b e th a t the n a tiv e i s n ot e a si l y c o n
vert e d to C hristi a n i d e a s b u t th a t th e m i ss i o n a ri e s
,

u ndo ubte dl y fo rm a gr e a t c ivi l iz i n g p ow e r i n the

E a st Th e H i nd u reli gi o n a d m its th a t C hri sti a nity i s
.
 P OR T S A I D AND TH E S UE Z CA NA L . 23

al l ver y go o d a n d th e y a dop t i t a lo n g with th e i r o w n ,

a rgu i n g th a t th e p r i nci pl e O f reli gi o n r e m a i n s th e

s a m e a n d the o u tw a rd fo rm s d o no t m a tter A
, .

H i nd u b e li e ves a l l p ro c e ed s fro m th e A lm i ghty a n d

,

a ll i s i n h i m
. Th e y ma y wo rshi p th e i r a ncesto rs o r ,

s e t u p a li mb o f a tre e a n d p e r fo r m thei r d evoti o ns

b e fo re i t O nl y yest e rd a y I h e a rd a sto ry o f a ma n i n
.

S o u th e rn I nd i a wh o w a s see n to b o w d own to th e
to mb o f a n Engl ish gen e r a l a n d m a ke a n o fferi n g o f
b r a nd y a n d so d a co ns i d e re d b y th e Ob servi n g n a tive
,

’
th e m ost a p p rop ri ate trib u te to the En g lish ma n s
well known t a ste
- .
24 GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

C H A PT E R I I I .

O N TH E I N D I A N O C EAN .

Ap E N , D e ce m ber I 7 .

A RLY Tu e sd ay m o rni ng we p a ss e d P e ri m t he ,

“
ro ck y i sl a n d wh i c h gu a rds th e g a t e s o f the
”
R e d S e a a n d d u ri n g t h e d a y h a d m a n y gli mp ses
,

O f t h e b a re p ro fil e s O f u n i nh a b i t e d i sl a n ds sh a r p ,

and h a l f s u nke n a p p e a ri n g to flo a t o n th e w a t e r
,

l ike sto n y i c i cl e s m a ki n g n a vi g a ti o n b o th d a nge r

,

o u s a n d d i ffi cu lt ; a n d i n th e Old d a s th e r e w e r e
y
m o re wrecks i n c o m i n g h e r e th a n i n a n y o th e r
p a rt o f th e wo rl d Th r e a d i n g o u r w a y thro u gh th e
.

p o i nt e d ro cks O f th i s l ittl e a rch i p el a go w e Si ght e d ,

t h e i sl n d o f M o ch a o n o u r l e ft
a — a n u n i nh a b it e d
,

d e s ert ! n o l ivi n g so u l w a s to b e se en n o tr a ce o f ,

li fe o r veg e t a ti o n ; eve n th e A r a b i a n grow e rs o f t h e

fa mo u s c o ffe e h a d a b a n d o n e d th ei r to rri d l ittl e
i sl a n d to i ts p ri m itiv e d e so l a ti o n I t w a s th e
.

c a p t a i n s tr a i n ed se a m a n s e ye wh i ch fi rst d i s c o v
’ ’

e re d A den fa r a w a y o n th e h o riz o n a n d th e En g
, ,

l i sh r e cto r t h e qu e en s a tto rn e y B a n d I a n d
,
’
, .
,

o thers w h o were go i ng to I nd i a fo r th e fi rst ti m e

, ,
26 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

th e to u ri sts o n th e d e ck a t a gl a nc e a n d h a l f— a ,

d ozen o r m o r e c a ll to u s i n p e rs u a sive a cc e nts ,

Giv e u s a d iv e — e s e s e s giv e m d ive ”

y , y y , , e a
, ,

th e i r t ee th gl e a m i n g cl e a r a s st a rs i n a b l a ck n i ght .

Fo r a two -a n n a b i t th e l ittle fe ll ows wo u l d d iv e

fro m th e i r d u g o u t c a no e s follo w t h e fl ight o f th e
,

c o i n thro u gh th e w a t e r a n d a pp e a r wi th i t b e twee n
,

the i r wh it e t e e th Sh a ki ng th ei r w e t sh a ggy l o cks

, ,

lik e w a ter -d ogs a n d lo oki ng o v e r th e w a ves fo r

,

th e i r c a no e N o w t he gr e a t e st fe a t w a s to get i nto
.

t h e c a no e o nc e m o re witho u t u p s e tti n g i t c o m

p l e t e ly
. S wi m m i n g wi th o n e h a n d o n th e b o a t the ,

l ittl e fe llow wo u ld w a tch fo r a fri e n dly w a ve throw ,

o n e fo ot qu ickl y o ver a n d a t o n c e b egi n to

, ba le
o u t t h e w a ter wi th h i s h a nds a n d ki ck i t o u t wi th

b o th fe e t Th e l ittl e b l a ck b o ys a r e th e m o st wo n
.

d e r fu l swi m mers a n d d ivers i n th e wo rld a l m o st ,

as m u ch c re a tu res O f th e s e a a s O f t h e l a nd We .

a re row e d a sho r e i n b i g b o a ts b y n a tiv e s so m e ,

with o nl y a b o u t two ya rds o f c loth and a n a mb e r

n e ckl a c e fo r c loth e s .

O n the l a n d th e s u n b e a ts d own a n d t h e a i r ,

see m s to Vi b r a te vi s ibl y with he a t Not a tr e e o r .

sh ru b o r a b it o f gr a ss h a s th e c o u r a g e to p e e r
thro u g h th e h o t s a n d to d i e i n th i s with e ri n g a t
,

mo s p h e r e I b o u ght a r a th e r go o d ph oto gr a p h
.

O f th e m a n y d i ffe rent n a ti o n a liti e s whi ch l iv e i n

A d e n wh o a r e m ostl y recru ited fro m th e Opp o
,
 ON TH E I ND I A N O CE A N . 27

s ite sho r e O f A fri c a N u b i a ns a n d A r a b i a ns fo r m

.

th e o n l y p e o p l e fitt e d b y n a tu r e to exi st a n d th riv e

on thes e vo lc a ni c ro cks I n v a i n a r e w e w a rn e d
.

o f the c e r t a i n a n d d i s a stro u s e ffect o f th e s u n on

v e ntu r e so m e s ights e e rs i n A d e n O ne m u st p a ss
.

d a ys a t s e a to u nd e rst a nd th e lo ngi n g to s e t fo o t
o n terr a fi r ma o n c e m o r e Ev e n b a rr e n A d e n s e em s
.

i n a w a y a p a r a d is e a n d w e c a n t w a ste a m i nut e
,
’

O f p re c i o u s ti m e ; s o h a i l a n i n exp ressi bl y qu e e r
v e h i cl e w e ll c ov e red ov e r t h e top a n d S i d es with
,

’
white m u sl i n to d i v e rt th e su n s r a ys a n d m oti o n ,

t h e gri n ni ng n a tive to fo llo w u p th e o n e stre e t

O f th e town ,
—a s em i c i rcl e O f Op i u m b a z a a rs a n d
sh a bb y sh o p s with n a tiv e s sm oki n g lo n g p ip e s a t
,

th e d o o rw a ys wh i l e i ns i d e i s d isp l a ye d a fo rl o rn
,

co ll e cti o n o f A r a b i a n o stri ch eggs u n cu rl e d pl u m e s

, ,

a n d b a dl y-c u red I b e x h o rns t h e sp eci a lti es o f th e

,

town — a l l a l ike d i ngy a n d d i rty wi th the fu mes o f

,

the co a rs e to b a cc o .

We c o m e su dd enl y o n th e c a m e l m a rket wh e r e ,

c a m els a r e d r a wi n g l o a ds h a rness e d to c a rts a n d

, ,

c a rr yi n g i m m ens e b u rd e ns o n th e i r b a cks ; a n d
B a n d I w h o a r e a lw a ys re a d y to enj o y a n y
.
,

n ew and e xc iti n g a m u s e m e nt a r e s ei z e d with a n

,

i nt e ns e d e si r e to r i d e a c a m el M r L c o ns e nt e d
. . .

to b a rg a i n with a t a ll A r a b i a n i n ma n y c o lo r e d r a i
-

m e nt th e own e r O f a c a m e l whi ch h a d n e ve r b e fo r e
,

b ee n c a lle d o n to gru nt u nder a gre a ter fa rd el th a n

28 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

two p a cks o f gr a i n O n c e s e c u r e d th e b e a st was

.
,

m a d e to recli ne a n d M r L m o u nt e d fi rst I m u st
, . . .

c o n fe ss th a t the s i ght o f the ven e r a bl e ma n h i s ,

wh ite h a i r fl o a ti ng i n th e wi n d cli n g i ng ti ghtl y to ,

t h e c a m e l a s t h e b e a st c o m m e nc e d t h e Op e r a ti o n

o f g e tti n g U p w a s a mo st ri d i c u lo u s sp e c t a c l e
, Th e .

c a m e l s e e m e d to h a v e s e v e r a l k n e e s b e fo re t he o rd i
n a r y o n e s w e re r e a ch e d a n d k e p t go i n g u p u ntil we
, ,

tho u ght h e wo u l d k e e p o rii i n d e fin itel y Fro m th e .

sho u t th a t w e nt u p fro m th e go o d n a tu r e d c rowd

-

g a th e r e d a ro u n d u s I k n e w th a t th i s m u st b e a
,

m ost u n u s u a l a n d l a u gh a b l e sp e ct a cl e a n d I fe lt ,

m a n y m i sgivi ngs O f c o ns c i e nc e th a t I sh o u l d h a v e
b e e n th e c a u s e O f p u tti ng my go o d -n a tu r e d c o m
p a ni o n to o p e n sh a m e W e st a rt O ff a n d th e c a m e l
.
,

m a kes a s i mp eri ng a tte m p t a t trotti ng wh i c h we ma n ,

a g e v e r y w e ll a n d th e e nti r e p o p u l a ti o n follow a ft e r
,

u s a n d u rge the b east a lo n g I t i s a m o tl e y crowd .

,

with b a r e l e gs b u t d r a p e d i n b ri ght sh a wls th rown

,

ove r t h e sh o u ld ers a n d n o th i n g e ls e
, a c o mp ro ,

m i s e b e t w e e n a d ress a n d n o d r e ss a t a ll S om e .

wo r e c u ri o u s S i lver rec e pt a cles l ike s n u ff-b o x e s fa s ,

tene d o n th e a r m b y s i lv e r ch a i ns wh i ch s e rve th e m ,

fo r p u rses a s th e i r cloth e s
, o r r a th e r th e a bs en c e
o f c loth e s — a d m its o f n o p o ck e ts fo r s m a l l ch a nge .

Ru n n i n g a lo n g i n th i s m ost a b s u rd p ro c e ssio n a r e
m a n y l ittl e n a tive bl a ck b o ys —th e j eu n es s e e b e n e
,
‘

O f A d e n — with the i r li ttle cu rl h e d s o n o ne s i d e

, y a .
 ON TH E I ND I A N O CE A N 29

Th e y lo ok u p s o b es ee ch i ngl y a t u s m a ki n g a k i nd ,

o f me a n , a t the s a m e ti m e rubb i n g th e i r l ittl e b a r e

ch e sts to m a ke u s b e li eve th e y a r e h u ngry s m i li n g ,

a l l t h e whi l e ,
kn owi n g th a t it i s fo r th e i r p i c t u r
e sq u e n e ss o nl y th a t yo u wi l l b e t e mp t e d to p a rt
’
with yo u r si lv e r S o m e o f o u r o w n Sh i p s p e op l e
.

h a d n ow j o i n e d t h e thro ng a n d were g e sti cu l a ti ng

,

a n d l a u gh i n g lo u dl y ; a n d a littl e l a t e r a ll witness
th e d ism o u nti n g p ro c ess Fi rst the b e a st g e ts down
.
,

i n fro nt b u t m a n a g e s to k e e p u p o n h i s h in d qu a r
,

t e rs ; a n d th i s p a rti cu l a r o n e o bj ecte d i n h o rrible

so u nds to g e tti n g down a n y low e r a n d we w e re ,

th rown fo rw a rd a l m ost o n o u r fa ces wh en a fe w ,

p ri cks a n d sti c ks fro m h i s own er p ers u a d e d the

c a m e l to r e a so n I t w a s th e o ddest b i t o f tr a v e l
.

l i n g ye t a n d I wi sh I c o u l d m a k e yo u a ll s e e th e
,

sc en e a s I s a w it I c o u ld n o t h e lp thi nking how

.

s e rvi c e a bl e th e fa c e s o f th e s e b a rr e n a n d v e r y p ro m
i n e n t ro cks wo u l d b e to P e a rs S o a p o r S a p o l i o
’
.

Th e En gli sh wo u ld m a k e a p retty p e n n y b y i t ;
so m e o n e sh o u l d m a ke the s u ggesti o n to Lo rd
S a lisb u r y .

W e l e ft A d e n a t su nset t o ni ght N O wo rd s c a n
- .

d e sc rib e th e b e a u ty O f th e sc e n e fro m th e b ri dg e
”
o fth e C hu s a n , l o oki n g tow a rd th e setti n g s u n .

Fro m a l l th e b o a ts th e ti r e d M u ssu lm a n s were w a sh

i n g i n b u ck e ts O f w a ter o r h a vi ng fi n ish ed th i s
,

i mp ort a nt r e li gi o u s c e remo n y were so m eti m es p ros

,
30 A GI R L ’
S WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

tr a te i n t he
d i r e c ti o n O f M e c c a so m e ti m es S il ,

h o u e t t e d i n b ro n z e a g a i nst a p a l e o r a n g e s ky It .

w a s i n d e scrib a b l y p i ctu r e squ e ; a n d th e s c e n e w a s

h e i ght e n e d b y a s m a l l i sl a nd O f vol c a n i c ro cks

i n th e fo r e gro u n d r a gg e d , i c e l ike p e a ks o u tli n e d
,
-
,

i n b l a ck a n d b e yo nd t h e l e m o n -colo r e d h o riz o n
, , ,

a n d t he d a rk i ndi go w a t e rs e n c i rclin g th e i sl a nd .

S o o n t he s u ns e t d eep e ns i n o r a ng e a n d r e ds t h e ,

m o o n h a ngs a p end e nt S il ve r c r e sc e nt i n th e s ky ,

a n d t h e st a rs c o me o u t .

I N D I A N O C EA N .

S i nce w e l e ft A d e n w e h a v e h a d a ma rv e llo u sl y
c a l m s e a th a t m i rro rs o u r m a sts i n i ts gl a ss y-l ik e
,

s u r fa c e . N O o n e c a n r e a l i z e wh a t i t i s to go o n
a vo ya ge i n th e s e l a titu d e s u n l e ss yo u a r e h e re
,

o n t he sp o t Ev e ry d a y o n t h e A r a b i a n S e a h a s
.

p a ss e d lik e a d r e a m — a d r e a m O f th e C a stl e O f I n

d o l e n c e ! e v e n t h e c a pt a i n s ee m s to ru n th e sh i p a s i f
b y m a gi c n o d i sc ipl i n e th a t w e c a n s e e n o b u stl i n g ,

o rd e rs o r fo g -b l a sts o r t e m p e sts to tro u bl e I n d eed

, , .
,

w e n e v e r th i nk O f o u r sh i p -l i fe a s str a n g e o r n u
n a tu r a l ! i t i s like o u r e a rth li fe ; a n d p e rh a p s w e Sh a ll
-

n ot r e m e mb er h ow to l iv e o n l a n d a g a i n Th e a i r .

s e em s to b e growi n g h ott e r a n d hott e r ; we a p p e a r

to b e s a i li n g str a i ght a w a y i nto trop i c h e a t a s w e n e a r
t h e e qu a to ri a l l i n e . L i ttl e ch i ld re n pl a y a b o u t th e
d e ck i n Old fa sh i o ned l o w n e ck e d a n d Sh o rt sl ee v e d
- -
, ,
-

gowns ; a n d th e b a r e fo ot e d a ya k fa ith fu ll y p a ces

-
 ON TH E I ND I A N O CE A N .
3 1

up an d d own c ro o ni ng so ftl y H i nd u l u ll a b i e s to th e
,

l i t tle wh it e b a b y w h o h a s no t e v e n a fl e e c y sh a wl
,

a b o u t its b a r e a r ms W e a pp e a r m o st co m fo rt a bl y
.

i n sh i rt w a i sts e v e n to th e s e c o n d a n d thi rd g e n
,

— e v e r yb o d y h a s a d opt e d
e r a t i o n s O f gr a nd m oth e rs

a si lk b lo u s e D u ri n g th e d a y a n d n i ght th e p o rt
.

h o l e s a r e a lw a ys o p e n ; a n d th e st e w a rd pl a c e s a
s qu a re c a nv a s wi n d -s a i l a t yo u r c a b i n po rt to c a tch
a ny str a y b r ee z es a t ni ght .

I h a v e r e ti r e d u nd e r th e p u nk a h wh i ch i s b e in g ,

p u ll e d i n b r e e z y sw ee p s b y th e h a n dsom e yo u n g
I nd i a n w h o h a s i nh e rit e d a ti r e l e ss e nergy i n p u ll
,

ing at a ro p e fo r h o u rs S i n c e w e l e ft Po rt S a i d
.

t h e p u nk a h s h a ve b e e n go i n g c o nst a ntl y i n th e

s a lo o n wh e re w e b e t a k e o u rselv e s O ft e n o nl y
, ,

to o th a nk fu l fo r a n a rtifici a l b re e z e to a i d u s
i n writi n g u p o u r co rr e sp o n d e n c e a n d fi ni sh i n g
our h o m e l-
e tt e rs fo r th e English m a i l -st e a m e r a t
C e ylo n . T h e t i ffi n h a s j u st en ded ; a n d fro m a
“
lo n g l ist O f s u c h u nknown d e li c a ci e s a s b ubbl e
” “ “ ”
and squ e a k , p r a wn c u rr y a n d j u gg e d h a r e
, ,

we h a ve d e cli n e d ev e r yth i ng p rovi d e d b y th e

P e ni ns u l a r a n d O ri e nt a l c o m p a n y ex c e p t s a rd i n e s
,

and b re a d a n d b u tt e r e n di n g wi th o r a n g e s a n d
,

a b o ttl e O f ch a m p a gn e o rd e r e d to qu e ll a r e b e l
,

l i o n O f the i nt e rn a l el e m e nts wh i c h i s m a ki ng,

our l ives p l a i nl y m i ser a b l e si n c e to -d a y w e a r e

,

ro ll i n g a trifl e i n th e bl u e w a ves o f th e I ndi a n

3 2 A GI R L ’
S WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

O c ea n Th e o nl y n e ws I c a n giv e yo u i s th a t O f
.

w a v e s s k y a n d t h e white fo a m i n g tr a ck the sh i p i s
, ,

p lo u gh i n g u p th ro u gh th e l a titu d e s a n d lo ngitu d e s ,

t h e z o n e s a n d m e ri d i a ns O f the gre a t e st p a rt o f th i s
,

e a rth s su r fa c e
’
whi c h w e c a ll s e a W e m a ke with
, .
,

a go o d wi n d to h e lp o n a b o u t thr e e h u ndr e d a n d ,

tw e nty m i l e s fro m tw e lv e O c lo ck n o o n O f o n e d a y ’

to the s a m e e i ght b ells th e n e xt d a y The n i ghts

‘
.

a re c a l m b e yo n d Wo fd s ; th e m o o nli g ht b ri ght a s '

da y ; i n th e s ky a p p e a r m a n y u nknown st a rs
an d
with str a n ge a n d u n fa m i li a r e ffects — ev e n th e
Gr e a t B e a r i s tu r n ed u p s i d e down m a ki ng t h e ,

h e a v e ns lo ok str a nge a n d u nn a tu r a l T he I nd i a n .

O c e a n i s l it by a p h o sph o resc e nt l i ght , an i nt e nse

e m er a l d gr ee n ; a n d t he w a t e r s a r e cle a r refl e cti n g'

a l l t he st a rs I n e ve r kn e w a n yth i ng m o r e w e i rd
.

an dd r e a m y th a n to st a n d i n th e b ows a n d lo ok o u t
i n th e m isty st a r -t a ngl e d a i r fo llow e d b y th e s e r p e nt ,

l ike tr a i l o f t he O n h e r l a st
ph osp h o resc e nt l i g ht .

tri p th e sh i p j u st h ere sp e a r e d a sh a rk twenty si x

,
-
,

fe et l on g with h e r b ow ; and s o fi rml y w a s th e fi sh

,

fa st e ned i n fro nt th a t th e sh i p w a s sto pp e d to d i s

,

lodg e i t Ev e ry n i ght d u ri n g d i n ne r th e qu a r
.

t e r ma s t e r d
the L a sc a r s a i lo rs c le a r t h e d e c k
an

o f ev e r yth i ng m ov a bl e a n d c over e v e r n o o k nd
y a
,

c o rn e r wi th g a y b u nti n g an d b ri gh t fl a gs s o w e fi n d
th e sh i p c h a ng e d a s i f b y ma gi c i nto a n i mp r o
vi s e d b l l ro o m Th e l a st e ve n i ng th e c a pt a i n i nvi tes
a - .
,
34 GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

C H A PTE R I V .

T H E I S L A N D O F C E YL O N .

CO LO M B O ,
D e cem b e r 24
.

T wa s w a rm d e li c i o u s n i ght F o r th e l a st fe w
a ,
.

h o u rs e v e ry o n e h a d b e e n i n a fren z y O f e xc ite
m ent a n d o u r i mp a ti en c e to s e e l a n d b ec a m e n u
,

c o ntro ll a b l e S u d d e nl y a b ri ght light fl a shed an d

.

r e fl e ct e d i ts e l f i n t h e s e a a n d b re ez e s fro m c o c o a
,

n u t a n d p a l m —tr e e s fl o a te d fresh fro m th e sh o re .

”
C olo mb o sh o u t e d a s a i lo r o n t h e fo rw a rd w a tch ;
,

C o lo mb o e cho e d th e c a pt a i n fro m th e b ri d ge ;
,

C ol o mb o ,r ep e a te d th e p a ss e n g e rs e a ch to th e
o th er wit h v a ri o u s sh a d e s o f e m oti o n ; a n d a t th a t
,

wo r d my o w n fa nc y c r e a t e d a wh o l e c i ty fu l l o f
m yst e ry a n d wo n d ers W e a s c en d e d th e h u rri c a n e
.

d e c k c rowd e d th e sh i p s b ows a n d l e a ned fa r ov e r

,
’

th e r a i li ng p e e ri ng i nto t h e qu i et n i ght a n d b r e a th
,

i n g th e c i n n a m o n s c e nt e d a i r O f C o lo mb o th e c a p it a l
-
,

O f C e yl o n . S c a rc el y a wo rd w a s sp ok e n ; e ver y
fa c e e x p r e ssed a d i ffere nt e m oti o n b u t e a ch w a s ,

vi s ibl y ch a ng e d Th e vo ya ge w a s end ed S o m e
. .

’
th i ng see m e d revers ed i n o u r l i fe s m a ch i ner y We .
 TH E I S L A ND OF CE YL O N 35

ha d e xp e ct e d i t to e n d b u t h a d b a ni shed the i d e a
,

to a d i m futu re a s w e d o the D a y O f Wr a th ; a n d
,

“
l ik e th a t d a y i t c a m e u p o n u s a s a th i e f i n th e
,

n i ght ro bb i ng th e b r e a d wi n n ers O f I n d i a O f th e
,
-

n eed e d r e st b e fo re th e b a ttl e fo r e x i sten c e s o so o n

t o b e gi n a n d b ri ngi ng the fl e d g li n g s O f futu re e n gi
,

n ee rs a b r e a st Of thei r problem s a n d th e b o yi sh
,

c a nd i dates fo r th e fo restr y d e p a rtm e nt fa c e to fa c e

with j u n gles a n d gi a nt tr e es i n B u rm a h Every .

thi n g w a s i n d e e d e n d e d fo r th e red -h a i r e d Peni nsu l a r

a n d O ri e nt a l o ffi cer whos e hop es wer e b e ing c a l ml
, y
a n n ihil a ted i n a qu i et c o rn e r O f the ship b y a c o qu et

ti sh En glish gi rl who s e c o nst a nt co mp a n i o nsh i p o n

,

th i s vo ya g e h a d i nd u ced a wi sh fo r th e lo n ger o n e
thro u gh l i fe I n t h e le a st frequ e nt e d p a rts O f th e
.

sh i p oth e r s a d p a rti ngs were t a ki ng pl a c e fo r we

, ,

w ere a ll m o r e o r l e ss senti m ent a ll y a ffe ct e d b y th e

d re a m y m o o nl i t even i n gs Ev e n th e j oll y yo u ng
.

“
recto r h a s d e c l a r e d h i m s e l f h a l f a fri e nd a n d a l l a
”
l ove r to h i s p r e tty p a rtn e r i n th e c ri c ket g a m es ;
a n d a t th i s st a g e O f th e vo ya g e th e m e n w h o h a v e
,

“ ” “ ”
p ro m i s e d to b e B s .
’
b roth e rs o n t h e C h u s a n ,

fo r m qu it e a l a rg e fa m il y .

I n th e c a l m w a t e rs o f th e h a rb o r s i x l a rg e Pe ni n
,

s ul a r a n d O ri e nt a l st e a m e rs l a y m o o r e d ; th e i r m a sts
a n d sp a rs d r a wn cl e a r a g a i nst th e b ri gh t s k y ; a n d

the j e tt y l i ghts fro m h u nd r e ds O f c a b i n -p o rts o u tli n e d

them fro m b ow to stern p o u ri ng fo rth b ri ght gold o n
,
3 6 A GI RL ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

the d a nc i ng w a ters . A ll sh ip s b o u n d to A u stral i a , or

c o m i n g fro m C hi n a re m a i n a t C olo mb o to co a l fo r
, ,

th e vo ya g e ; a n d t h e p a s sen g e rs fro m th e d i ffe rent

b o a ts go a sh o r e to j o i n i n a n i nt e rn a ti o n a l d a n c e
a t th e Gr a n d O ri e nt a l H ot e l Wh e n th e clank i n g
.

ch a i ns h a d l e t d own t h e b i g a nch o r i mp a ti e n c e m a d e
,

u s p ow e rl e ss t o r e s ist t he te m pt a ti o n to l a nd To .

u n d eI St a n d thi s yo u m u st h a ve tr a v e ll e d i n Eu rop e ;
,

fo u n d s t e a m ship s p u ffin g o n th e G r a n d C a n a l ; h a v e
g a z e d o n h i d e o u s m o d e r n stru ctu r e s r ep l a ci ng th e ,

b e a u ti fu l Ol d c a s t l e s o n t h e Rh i n e ; h a v e p a i d yo u r
fa re i n a street c a r to vi sit t h e Ro m a n Fo ru m ; a n d
s o u ght v a i nl y i n ev e r y n o o k an d c o rn e r o f t he C o nti
nent fo r a sp ot u n i nv a d e d b y m o d ern noti o ns .

A n d h ere b e fo re u s w a s t h e ch a n g e l e ss E a st ,

th e e ntr a nc e i nto Wo n d e rl a nd and was i t not

“
ti m e e l a b o r a tel y th rown a w a y to r e m a i n o n t h e
sh i p a n d b e m o a n o u r p a st d i s i ll us io ns i nst e a d of,

”
h a vi n g gl i m p s e s wh i ch m i ght m a k e u s l e ss fo rlo rn ?
O l d tr a v e ll e rs sh a k e th e i r h e a ds a t th e i d e a o f l a n d
i n g a t ni ght a n d tru sti n g o u r p r e c i o u s s e lv e s to t h e
,

t r e a ch ero u s n a tiv e s a t th i s ho u r ; a n d c r a bb e d a g e
and y o u th d isc u ss t h e s u bj e ct u nti l y o u,th c o n

qu e rs a n d w e c a ll a c a t a m a r a n A l o n g sl i m b o a t
,
.
,

a p p e a rs,
row e d b y s i x n a ti v e s we a ri n g a w a i st
,

d r a p ery o f stri p e d m u sl i n c o ntr a sti ng wel l with

,

th e i r b ro nz e d ski n T he b o a t fits yo u tightl y o n

.

e ith e r si d e o f th e b o ard seat o nl y wi d e eno u gh fo r

,
 TH E I S L A ND OF CE YL ON 37

one p erso n A n d t he qu a int to u ch i s th e o u t

.

ri ggi n g wh i ch ke e p s the b o a t fro m c a p siz i n g b y a

,

b a l a n c e -lo g O f wo o d i nters e cted wi th ro p e s a n d b e nt

,

p ol e s, wh i ch to u ch t h e w a t e r a n d a r e a tt a ch e d to
,

th e c a t a m a r a n o n o n e s i d e o nl y A w a y w e go ; .

th e S i n g a les e m a ki n g r a p i d h e a dw a y ov e r th e ri p
pl e s b en d i ng th e i r l o n g necks fo rw a rd a n d b a ck
,

w a rd with th e stroke a n d Showi n g th e i r wh ite teeth

,

l ik e fl a sh e s .

W e w e r e a b o u t m i d w a y a c ro ss wh e n th e b o a t s u d
,

d e n l y sto p p e d O n e i nst a nt o f s i ckeni ng fri ght ; the

.

n ext a wo n d er wh a t w a s c o m i ng n o w I s e e o n e O f
,
.

th e h e a th e n r i s e a n d he a r h i m sho u t so m e thi n g i n
,

str a nge so u nd i n g to nes to th e t e rri fi e d a tto rn e y

g e n e r a l a cco mp a ni e d b y V i ol e nt g e stu res
, Is it .

’
robb e r y o n th e qu e e n s h i ghwa y ? a n d I b e gi n to
wond e r i f my s m a ll s i lv e r wo u ld s a tis fy th e b ri g
a n ds . Th e n a co u pl e O f n a ti v e s fo rc ibl y m a k e
th e tr e mbl i n g g e ntl e m a n u n d e rst a n d th a t h e i s to
c r a wl o u t o n th e sl e nd e r o u tri ggi ng th e b e tt e r to ,

b a l a n c e th e b o a t Noth i n g m o r e d re a d fu l o c c u rs
.
,

a n d we a l l l a u gh a t o u r su d den p a ni c A t l a st w e .

l a nd a t a so rt o f wh a r f p roj ecti n g i nto th e h a rb o r ,

p a ss ov e r th a t b it O f r e d s a nd fa c i n g th e G r a nd
O ri e nt a l H ot e l a r e i n fo rm ed th e re i s n o ro o m fo r u s
,

i n th e i n n ; a n d n o ch o i c e l e ft b u t to retu rn to th e
”
Ch u s a n . Th e l i ghts were o u t wh e n we r e a ch e d
the sh i p ; a n d we s o u ght o u r c a b i ns stu mbl ing over ,
38 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

b u ndl e s o f d e ck sl ee p e rs wh o p roved b y gro a n s th e i r

-
,

u n m ist a k a bl e d is a p p rov a l o f s u ch no ctu rn a l d istu rb

a n ces o nl y to fi n d o u r b e rths d is m a ntl e d o f ev e r y
th i n g d own to t h e m a ttr e ss a n d th e c a b i n stew a rd
, ,

to o fa st a sl ee p o n th e d i n i ng ro o m t a b l e to b e
-

a ro u s e d ; s o w e r e p e nt e d o u r h a st e d u ri n g th a t e n

ti r e n i ght W e went a sh o re e a rl y n e xt m o rnin g

.
,

a n d w e re a m a z ed to fi n d th e stre e ts O f C o lo mb o
c rowd ed t h e l i fe O f th e sh op s i n fu ll swi ng th e b a nks
, ,

and p u bl i c b u i ldi n gs op e n a n d th e b u s y d a y w e ll
,

a f—
b egu n a t h l p a st s e v e n A M . .

C o lo mb o i s a b a bel O f str a nge s o u nd s a n d c ol o rs ,

a ll n ew a n d b ewi ld e ri ng to m e F a n c y a town o f .

o n e h u nd red tho u s a n d bl a cks — S i ng a les e T a m i ls

, , ,

M a ho m e t a ns a n d H i nd u s — with o nl y fi ftee n h u n
,

d re d Eu ro p e a ns The n a tiv e s w e a r a c o stu m e i f

.
,

n o t th e str a n g e st a t l e a st t h e m o st grot e s qu e th a t
,

one can i m a gi ne T h e S i n g a les e p o rti o n O f th e

.

p o p u l a ti o n a r e d r e ss e d i n a d a rk c o a t ov e r a ski rt O f ,

wh ite m u s l i n fa st e n e d a b o u t t h e w a i st ; th e i r lo n g
,

b l a ck h a i r i s b ru sh e d s m o othl y b a ck fro m t h e fo re
,
-
h e a d a n d se c u r e d b y a to rto is e sh el l c o mb — th e ,

o nl y fe a tu re wh i ch d i sti n gu i shes t h e c ostu m e wo rn

b y th e m e n fro m th a t o f t h e i r wiv e s S O fa r a s ,

I c a n s e e T e a a n d b a n a n a s o u r fi rst ch ot a -h a z ri
.
, ,

w e re serve d o n th e p i a zz a O f th e G r a nd O ri e nt a l
H otel b y a n a tive s erv a nt d r e sse d i n a b o u t a ,

’
shi l li n g s wo rth O f wh i te c otto n cloth The n we .
 TH E I S L A ND OF C E YL O N .

39

secu re d our ro o m s , an d sp ent the m o rn i n g i n th e

b a z a a rs .

An rc a d e e xtends a lo n g thi s low col o n n a d e d c a r

a

a v a n sa r y wh er e th e l i fe O f th e town i s c o n ce ntr a t e d
, .

H e re a r e th e sho p s th e o nl y a p oth e c a r y th e o nl y
, ,

b o okst a nd H e r e o n th e b ro a d str e e t a r e c o ngr e

.
, ,

ga te d a l o n g l i n e O f th e h a nso m s o f
C o lo mb o G ro u p s o f h a l f-n a k e d c o oli e s squ a t o n
.

th e gro u nd i nert a n d m oti o n l e ss sc a r c el y d i sti n

, ,

u i s ha b l e fro m a h e a p O f d i rt y r a gs N o t l low e d
g a .

to a p p ro a ch n e a r e r th e h ot e l th e y a w a i t th e p o rt e r s
,
’

si gn a l ; wh e n fi ll e d with s u d d e n l i fe th e y j u m p
, ,

qu i ckl y to a p l a c e b e tween t h e sh a fts a n d ru sh fo r ,

w a rd with th e ri c ksh a w H e r e a lso a r e th e j e w e l

.

l e rs shop s wh e re we wer e sh own gl itt e ri n g h e a p s O f

’

p r e c i o u s sto n e s b u t fo u n d sc a rc e l y a go o d ru b y o r
,

s a p p h i r e a m o n g th e m S t ree t e r O f Lo nd o n a n d th e
.
, ,

gr e a t N e w Yo rk fi rm s p u r c h a s e a l l th e v a l u a b l e
g e m s l e a vi ng fl a w e d a n d i m p e r fe ct sto n e s fo r to u r
,

i st s
. N O so o n e r h a s th e u n w a r y tr a v e ll e r s e t fo o t
i n th e a rc a d e th a n thes e M o o rm e n ru sh o u t o f
,

th e i r Sh o p s p u sh a p ri nt e d c a rd O f th e fi r m i n
,

o u r h nd and p ress o u to e nt e r — n o o n e es
y a , y
ca pes . O nc e i nsi d e c o u rt e s y p rovi d e s fa ns a n d
,

ch a i rs Yo u a r e so o n s e a t e d a t a t a b l e b e fo r e h e a p s
.

’
of sp a rkl i ng rub i e s c a t s -e ye s p a l e s a p p h i res a n d
, , ,

m o o nsto n e s Th e n i f yo u lik e b a rg a i n i n g b e gi ns
.
, , ,

a n d a w a r O f wo rd s i s w a ged o n th e p ric e Th e .
40 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

i nsi n u a ti ng j ewell e rs p ro d u c e w e ll thu mb ed l etters -

fro m d isti ngu ish e d cu sto m e rs M r V a nd e rb i lt o r th e ,

.
,

R othsch i lds whi l e th e y r a i s e o r low e r p ri c es i n

,

th e sc a l e O f yo u r e nth u si a s m Th e l e a st i nter e st .

m a ni fe st e d i n a p a rti c u l a r sto n e o n yo u r p a rt s e a ls
th e i r p r e Th h u nt o u fo r d a s st e l
y o u a s y e y.
y y a ,

st e a lthi l y tow a rds yo u a t fo u r O cl o c k t e a o n th e ’

ver a nd a a n d th ru st th e sto n e Shi ni ng o n a b it O f

, ,

c otto n wo ol d i r e ctl y u nd e r v o u r e ye s ; o r s u dd e nl y
-
,

c o m e u p o n yo u j u st l e a vi n g fo r a d ri v e r e tr e a ti n g
, ,

fro m th e b low O f th e p o rter s sti ck o nl y to r e -a p p e a r

’

m o r e b l a n d th a n b e fo re — a lw a ys p olite r e senti ng
, ,

n oth i n g ; th e y fi n a ll y a sto nish yo u b y a c c e pti ng a

tith e o f t he o ri gi n a l p ri ce a n d yo u a r e m o st fo r t u
,

n at e i f yo u r g e m p rov e s n o t a b i t O f b ri ght co lo r e d -

gl a ss Th e b a r e fo ot e d r a sc a l s a r e c u nn i ng a n d I
.
,

a m no m a tch fo r th e m a s fa r a s I h a v e go n e Th e r e .

a re seve r a l go o d sh o p s fo r to rto i se sh e l l ; h ere i s th e -

ch e a p est m a r k e t i n t h e wo rl d fo r sh ell wh i ch th e ,

n a tives p o li sh b u t n e ver c a rv e .

I n t h e h ot e l yo u fe e l tr a nsp o rted to a n oth e r

,

pla net . Th e b u i l d i n g its e l f i s no t r e m a rk a bl e r e ,

s e mblin g a l a rg e I t a l i a n h o u se whit e l ow a n d s u r , , ,

ro u n d e d b y b a l c o ni es with a b e a u ti fu l g a rd e n ri c h
, ,

i n fl ow e ri n g sh ru b s a n d b ri ll i a nt tr e e s ; b u t th e l i fe
and cu sto m s o f th e h o u s e a r e very O ri e nt a l a n d ,

s u i ted to th e tro p i c s W e h a ve a n exc e ll e nt t a b l e

.
,

i n t h e m o rn i ng Ckot a -Aa z nz ( tea an d to ast b a n a n a s

'

, ,
42 A G I RL ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

if onesp e a ks b roken E ngli sh to th e m I i n fo rm e d .

my n a tive b a rb e r th a t I l iv e d i n A m eri c a n ot i n ,

Engl a nd ; a n d i n wo n d e r h e r e p li ed L a d y sp e a ks
, ,

”
E ngli sh very very w e ll , .

CO LO M B O , C hristm s a Day .

I wa s w a ke th i s m orn i n g a t s i x O clo ck h a vi ng i t
a
’

o n my m i nd th a t C hri stm a s h a d c o m e i n C e ylo n A .

f
v e ry e w fi r e -c r a ckers a n d t h e ch u rch b e lls fro m th e
fo rt so u nd e d o u tsi de my wi nd ow ; b u t b y fa r the m ost
n o i s e w a s m a d e b y th e b i rd s i n th e g a rd e n trees wh o
c a roll e d a w a y witho u t c e a si n g B c a m e i n wi th. .

C hri stm a s gr e e ti ngs a n d b ro u ght m e a d a i nty ch ota

,

h a z ri a n d so o n w e w e re b oth O ff i n a gh a rri to
,

the En gl i sh ch u rch fo r e i ght O clo ck s e rvi c e Th e ’

.

c h u rch moss y a n d gr a y i s p l a ce d a b ove th e ro a ds i de

, ,

i n a d e ns e p a l m grov e A m o n g th e c o ngreg a ti o n
.

a l re a d y i n th e chu rch wer e h i gh -c a st e n a ti ve l a di e s ,

who o c c u p i e d th e b e nch e s d r e ss e d i n fu ll low n e ck e d

,
-

and Sh o rt -sl ee ved gowns ; th e i r b ro nz y b l a ck n e cks

a n d a rm s qu it e c over e d with b r a c e l e ts a n d j e wel r y .

A d r a p e r y o f wh ite wo rked v e i li n g c ov e r e d t h e he a d ,

-fa
r e a ch i n g to t h e w a i st ; a n d a fe w wo r e Ol d sh i o ned
a n d ver sc a nt y s a ti n ski rts W e p a ss e d ma n y n a
y .

tive gr a nd ee s go i n g to c h u r c h i n c o a ch e s d r iv e n b y ,

b l a ck co a ch m en i n t hei r wh i t e tro u s e rs b a r e kn e e s
, , ,

a n d b a r e fo oted S o m e E u ro p e a n s d rov e v e r y s m a rt
.

d o g c a rts
-
,
with bl a ck gro o m s st a nd i ng b eh i nd , in
 TH E I S L A ND OF CE YL O N 43

b ri ght r e d o r yell ow tu rb a n s a n d s a shes ; an d a l l i n

wh i t e with o u t sh o es a n d sto cki n gs I n d e e d ev e r y
,
.
,

thi n g i n th i s cli m a t e i s w h it e C a rri a g e s a n d a lso

.
,

u mb r e ll a s a r e c over e d with white l i nen a s a p ro

, ,

’
t e c t i o n a g a i n st th e s u n s r a ys ; ev e n th e r e s i d ents

a ppea r i n th e e v e n i n g fo r d i nn e r i n whi t e l i nen

c loth e s o f Engli sh c u t a n d m a k e a n d b e lt e d with
,

r e d s a sh e s whi ch l o o k v e ry b ri ght i n a d r a wi n g
,

ro o m I n ch u rch th e s e rvi c e w a s r e a d b y th e
.
,

E u ro p e a n c h a p l a i n fro m t h e fo rt ; a n d th e ch o i r ,

o rg a ni st a n d cho ri st e rs a r e a l l r e c ru it e d fro m o u r
,

d a rk b roth e rs t h e S i n g a l e s e c o nv e rts Fo r a r e
,
.

m i nd e r O f C h ristm a s t h e ch u r c h i s fe sto o n e d i n
,

wh it e a n d gre e n wh il e a c o u pl e O f b o ys o u tsi d e th e
,

o p e n wi nd ows ar e p u lli ng a n i m m e ns e p u nk a h to
a n d fr o over t h e h e a ds O f th e c o ngr e g a ti o n ; a n d
fro m th e do o rw a y ste a l s i n th e sc e nt e d a i r o f c in n a
m o n g a rd e ns a n d b i rds fl y i n a n d o u t o f th e
,

“
wi n dows j o i n i ng i n c a rol s a n d ch a nts
,
H i gh n o o n
.

b e h i n d th e t a m a ri sks ; th e s u n i s h ot a b ove u s a s ,

”
a t ho m e the Ch ristm a s D a y i s b re a ki ng w a n .

D e cem ber 2 6 .

A n oth e r h oli d a y b u t r a th e r a tryi n g o n e fo r u s

, ,

fo r th e b a nks wi ll n ot b e Op e n i n th r e e d a ys fo r m a i l .

T O d a y w e d rove o u t to a n En gl ish b u n g a low i n th e

-

c i n n a m o n g a rd ens fo r fo u r O clo ck t e a
,
’
Th e se .

Sp i c y g a rden s e xten d i n eve ry d i recti o n fo r m i les ,

44 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

wh e re wh ite c ol o n n a ded b u ng a lows a r e d otte d h ere

a n d th e r e h a l f h i dd e n i n grov e s O f fe a th e r y p a l ms ;
,

where the C o l e a s m a k e t h e h e d g e s a n d th e ro s e s O f ,

S h a ro n th e sh a d e tr e es A b u ng a low i n C e ylo n .

m e a ns a low th a t c h e d o n e sto ry ho u s e s u rro u nd e d

,
-
, ,

with p i a zz a s n e a rl y a s l a rg e a s th e bu il di ng its e l f ,

sc re en e d with m a ttings a n d c a rp e t e d wi th b a mb o o
,

ru gs a b o u t t h e flo o r The C e ylo n t e a i s l i ght i n co lo r

.
,

v e r y m i ld a n d r e fr e shi ng i n thi s cli m a te A fter t e a .

,

w e d rov e i n M rs A s l a u d a u to th e m u s e u m Th is
. .
’
.
,

an x ce e d i ngl y i n teresti n g o n e i s ri ch i n n a tive a n i

e ,

ma ls ti g e rs e l e p h a nts a n d s n a k e s a n d a lso i n c u ri o u s
, , , ,

j e w e l ry u sed fo r b ri d a ls a n d fe a sts b y th e a n ci en t
,

K a n d i a n s wh o e x c e ll e d i n wo nd ro u sl y c a rv e d go ld
,

a n d si lve r wo rk A c u ri o u s re m i nder O f o u r o w n
.

c o u ntr y wer e th e m sks u s e d v e n t o d a y b y n a tive

a e -
,

H i nd u p ri ests fo r d e vi l d a nces Th e y r e s e mble .

th o s e t he m e d i c i n e m e n d e p e n d o n to d riv e a w a y
s i ckn ess a m o n g th e A l a sk a I n di a ns ; t h e m a sks ex
p r e ss i ng d i ffe r e nt d e grees O f h i deo u s n e ss to ch a r m
aw a y l a m e n e ss a ma n ru sh i n g a w a y to ki ll h i ms el f a
, ,

fe v e r -to r m e nt e d p e rso n T h i s ru d e b el i e f i n ch a r m s
.

and so rc e r y m i ngl e s th e su p erstiti o n s o f f a r -a

wa y
s a v a g e s with p a g a n rites Who c a n give a c l e w to .

th i s str a ng e si m i l a rity ?
A n endl e ss ti d e o f every d e gree o f A s i a ti c h u
m n ity e bb s a n d flows th ro u gh th e p l m fri ng e d
a a -

str e ets and s a n d y ro a ds o f C ol o mb o I am w a tch i ng .

 TH E I S L A ND OF CE YL O N 45

these c rowd s fro m my b a lco n y wh e n a fa m il i a r ,

s o u n d c om e s to my e a rs ! “
I s th e wo rl d go i n g
”
w ro n g ? A g a y p ro c e ss i o n i s c o m i ng d own th e
d u st y h i gh ro a d
-
, a p ro c e ssi o n r e vivi n g ch i ld i sh
B ibl e m e m o ri e s O f M i ri a m c o m p osed o f o n e h u n
,

d r e d b a r e fo ot e d m a i d ens i n flo w i ng ye llow u nder

,

g a rm e nts tu rke y r e d j a ck e ts a n d th e s a m e p a l e
,
-
,

y e llow m u sl i n fl o a ti ng fro m thei r p r e tt y he a d s .

Th e y a l l h a v e th e i r t a mb o u ri n e s a n d sh o u t a s th e y
,

“ ”
p a ss ! W e wi ll d o wh a t we c a n i n th e l iv e l y tu n e ,

b e lo ngi n g to t h e h y m n Th e fl a m i n g b a nn e rs O f th e
.

S a lv a ti o n A rm y a r e fl yi ng ov e r th e h e a ds o f t h e p a le
fa c ed Engli sh l a sses wh o h op i n g to c o m e m o r e i n
, ,

to u ch with th e n a ti ves h a v e a d o p t e d th e S i n g a
,

l e s e d r e ss a n d fo o d a n d liv e th i s s e l f-s a c r i fi c i n g
,

l i fe Un m i nd fu l o f th e n o o n d a y s u n th e y m a rc h
.
-
,

th ro u gh th e b u rn i n g streets tow a rds th e p i er to ,

gre e t oth e r S a lv a ti o ni sts wh o l a n d to d a y i n a

,
-

s p e c i a l sh ip fro m En gl a n d a n d with m o re n o is e a n d
th e b e a ti ng o f d ru m s h a ve r e c ru i t e d m a n y p i c t u r
,

e squ e a dd iti o ns O f c u ri o u s n a tiv e s a n d ch i ld r e n i n ,

a l l c olo rs a n d co stu m es wh o j o i n i n th e m a rch to th e

,

b a rr a cks Th e A rm y i s s a i d to b e d o i n g gr e a t go o d
.

a m o n g th e n a tive p e o p l e a n d wh e n we vis it e d h e a d

qu a rt e rs a sw e e t so ft vo i c e d En g l i sh wo m a n told u s
, ,
-

”
o f h e r li fe h e r e a s a st a ff-O ffi c e r I t i s m a rvello u s
.
,

“
sh e s a i d, th e k i n d ness sh own to u s b y th e n a tiv e s
o n c e yo u get ne a r thei r h e a rts ; a n d I d re a d go i n g
46 GI R L WI N I ND I A
’
A S TE R I N .

b a ck to E u ro p e a ns S h e r e l a t e d to u s a s a d sto ry
.

o f a yo u n g T a m i l gi rl who s e m o ther d e sp er a t e l y o p
,

p o se d h er j o i ni n g the A r m y thre a ten i n g to p l a c e h er

,

o wn h e a d u nd e r a c a rt wh e e l u nl e ss th e d a u ght e r
-
,

r e tu rn e d to th e fa i th O n h e r re fu s i ng th e m oth e r
.
,

e n d ed h e r li fe i n th i s w a y b u t i n v a i n a s t h e girl
, ,

sti ll re m a i ns tru e A ls o a P a rse e fro m B o mb a y h a s

.

arrive d h e r e wh o w a s a lm ost ki lled b y hi s p e op l e

,

b e c a u s e o f th e i r h a tr e d O f th i s n e w rel igio n A ll .

thes e i nc i d e nts sh ow s o m e th i ng o f th e o p p o si tio n

wh i ch G e ner a l B o oth s a rm y e n co u nt e rs i n th e E a st
’
.

Wh a t a c o ll e cti o n o f n a ti o n a liti es a n d to ngu es

C e ylo n p o ss e ss e s Fi rst th e S i n g a l e s e kn own b y
.
, ,

to rto is e sh e l l c o mbs lo n g bl a ck h a i r b a re -h e a d e d
, ,

u n d e r a n u mb r e ll a O f cotto n ; T a m ils fro m S o u th

e rn I nd i a w e a ri n g m o r e j e w e l ry a n d wh it e o r r e d
,

tu rb a ns ; M a h o m e t a n s sh a ve n a n d sh o rn u nd e r
,

f
the i r u n n e l sh p e d
- a a n d m a n y co lo r e d b o n n e ts ; Eu
-

r o p e a n p l a nt e rs wi th p a l e fa c es o r i nt e ns e l b u rn e d
y ,

a n d b rown ed b y t h e tro p i c a l s u n ; B u ddh i st m o nks ,

i n yellow rob es a n d s h a ve n he a ds m u nch i ng a l e a f ,

Of -
b e t e l n u t a n d p l yi n g a p a l m -l e a f fa n wh i l e ,

b e h i nd th e m w a lks a l ittl e n ovi c e a ll i n whit e wh o , ,

i s c a rryi n g a c otto n u mb rell a u nd er h is a r m E ng .

l a nd h a s h e re a r a r e c o ll e cti o n O f s ubj e cts d i ffe ri n g ,

no t o n l y i n th e i r r e li gi o n a n d c o u ntry th e i r l a n ,

gu a g e a n d d r e ss b u t i n Op i ni o n s i d e a s a n d tho u ghts
, , ,
.

Witho u t go i n g b ack to S i nb ad the S a i lo r who se ,

 TH E I S L A ND OF C E YL O N 47

a dv e ntu r e s a m o ng th e e l e ph a nts o f the I sl a nd o f

C e ylo n a r e o u r d e l i ght ; no t ev e n r e c a lli ng th e
a A
m o r e p ro s i c Gr ee ks o r r b i a ns a
,
— w e know th a t
,

a dventu ro u s Po rtu gu e s e vi s i t e d C e ylo n i n th e s i x

t e e n t h c e ntu r y a n d th e
, c ol o n i z i n g D utch me n a ,

h u n d red ye a rs l a t e r l e ft a p e rm a n e nt i mp r e ss io n o n
,

t h e n o m e ncl a tu re O f th e b e a u ti fu l i sl a nd o f L a nk a .

A m o ng th e shop s a r e still m a n y whos e si gns b e a r

th e h a rd N o rth e rn i nsc ri pti o n O n e m i ght e a s il y
.

fa nc y o n e s e l f w a lki ng th ro u gh t h e stre e ts O f Th e
H a gu e s e e i ng t he rows O f s i gn -b o a rds ov e r th e
,

Sho ps wi th d i sti nctl y D u tch n am es s i m i l a r to the ,

o n e I h a v e c op i e d .

M . C .
JOON OOS CO

JE W ELL ER S ,

A ND

D EA LE R S I N PREC I O U S S T O N E S,

NO . 12 Y O R K S T R E ET ,

C O L O M BO , C E Y L O N .

C olo mb o h a s r e pl a c e d th e Old e r town O f Po i nt

d e G a ll e a s th e c a p it a l O f C e ylo n Th e str e e ts .

a r e extr e m e l y wi d e b o rd e r e d with p a l m -tr e e s a n d

, ,

with h o u s e s gen e r a ll y o n e —sto ry h igh h a vi ng a r ,

c a des c olo n n a d e s a n d v e r a nd a s ; a n d m a n y tre e s

, , ,

a n d l a wns pl a nt e d wi th sh rubb e r y l i nk to g e th e r th e se
,

qu a i nt dw e lli ngs A n oth e r a ft e rn o o n w e d rove to the

.

s ub u rb a n a n n e x O f C o lo mb o ; h e re the ri ch trop i c a l
48 WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A CI RL S IN .

veget a ti o n i s c le a red aw a y i n p a t c h e s a n d vill a s ,

wi th b a ckgro u nd s O f c o c o a n u t -t r ee s a n d b a n a n a s
sp rin g u p i n e v e r y d i r e cti o n b e t w ee n th e ro a d a n d
t he o cea n
. Th e ro a d wi nds th ro u gh l u x u ri a nt
fol i a g e wi th h e r e a n d th e r e lov e l y s e a -vi e ws O f
,

th e h a rb o r a n d t h e p u r p l e l i ghts O f th e I nd i a n
,

O c e a n stretchi n g w a y b e yo n d .Ev e r y b u n g a low

h a s a b o u n dl e ss o c e a n vi ew fro m i ts fro nt d o o r ;
and tow a rd s eve ni n g t h e m e rch a nts a n d m e n o f
b u s i n e ss ma y b e s e en drivi n g to th e s e l ovel y h o m e s
i n ri cksh a ws d r a wn a t a l iv e l y tro t b y n a tive c o o l i e s,

who a r e t a ki n g th e i r m a st e rs ho m e to sl e e p a w a y
th e c a r e s a n d fa ti gu e s o f O ffi c e l i fe i n th e sw e e t
s c ente d a i r a n d re fresh i n g b r e e z es o f thi s b e a u ti fu l
Sp o t.

Thes e ri cksh a w c o ol i e s s m e a r th e m selves o nc e a

we e k with co c o a n u t O i l s o th a t i t m a k e s the m i mp er
,

v i o u s to t h e we a th e r d r a u g hts o r c o l d n i ghts o r
, ,

r a i n y d a ys Th e r e i s a g e n e r a l i mp r e ssi o n th a t th e
.

c o oli e wi ll s o o n b e c o m e a s exti nct a sp ec i m e n a s

t h e m a sto do n owi n g to l u n g tro u bl e s b ro u ght o n
,

b y e xp o su r e i n th ei r sc a nt y cloth i ng to n ight wi n ds .

A m ovem e nt w a s st a rt e d thi s C h ri stm a s b y th e

Engli sh B ish o p fo r t h e p u rp o s e o f p rovi d i n g c a st O ff
-

co a ts fo r t h e u s e o f th e co o li e s w h o a r e th o u ght
,

l e ssl y l e ft to st a nd i n co l d d r a u ghts b y the i r m a sters

, ,

a fter a Sh a rp ru n o f p e rh a p s m iles i n th e h e a t O f
, ,

th e n o o n da y
-
.
5 0 A GI R L ’
S WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

wo u ld b e c o nv e ye d to u s i n a cho i c e vo c a b u l a r y
O f te n v e ry b ro ke n v e ry i mp e r fe ct a l most u ni n
, ,

t e ll i g i b l e English wo rd s p o ss e ss e d b y th e gu i d e .

K a l a n i e i s a n Old B u ddh i st town fo u rt ee n m i les

d i st a nt fro m C o lo mb o r e a c h e d b y a n a rrow ro a d
,

c u t th ro u gh a j u ngl e o f l ux u ri a nt growth O n th e .

o utski rts O f th e town w e p a ss e d thro u gh s e v e r a l

n a tiv e s e ttl e m e nts m e e ti ng n u m e ro u s v e nd e rs c a rry
,

i n g l a rg e b a sk e ts O f t h e gr e e n b e t e l -n u t o n th e i r
h e a ds Fro m th e s i z e O f t h e b a sk e ts a n d qu a ntit y
.

o f l e a v e s o n e wo u l d i m a gi n e th e s u ppl y co m i ng i nto

C o lo mb o i n th e m o rni n g wo u l d b e s u ffi c i e nt fo r t h e
e nti re E a st ; b u t th e y a ssu r e d u s not a si ngl e l e a f
wo u l d rem a i n u nso l d b y t h e e v e n i n g W e p a ssed .

c rowd s O f chi ld r e n p l a yi n g i n t h e n a rrow str e e ts ,

wh e r e v e g e t a b l e s a n d fr e sh fru its a r e so ld o n the

s i d e w a lk b y h a l f C l a d a n d w r e tched n a tiv e s
- - We .

c o u l d n ot d riv e v e r y fa st fo r fe a r o f ru n n in g over
th e s m a ll u r c h i ns s qu a tti n g a b o u t th e ro a dw a y e n ,

e e e f
’
o
j y i ng to th i r h e a rt s c o nt nt a g a m o m a rb les ,

pl a ye d j u st a s ch i ld re n wo u l d i n o u r c o u ntr y .

H e r e a n d th e re w a s a p r e tt y B u dd h i st h o m e ; a n d
so m e ti m e s th e d evou t i n m a t e s w e re tr a c i n g wh it e
a r a b e s qu e d e si gns i n ch a lk o n th e h a rd ye llow ,

gro u n d b e fo r e th e i r d o o rs p l a c i ng a t e a ch e n d O f
,

th e l i n e s b u nch e s O f th e ro s e s o f S h a ro n re d a n d ,

b ri lli a nt a g a i nst th e s u n -b a k e d e a rth - i t b e i n g t h e

,

S i ng a l e s e w a y o f hono ri n g a s a i n t s fé t e I n th e i r
’
.
 TH E I S L A ND OF CE YL O N S I

T e n g yu r , B u d dhi sts h a v e p a rti c u l a r d i rectio ns l a i d

d own fo r c o nstru cti n g m a gi c a l s qu a r e s a n d a ngl e s
a ro u n d th e i m a g e s o f tu tel a ry s a i nts w h o a r e thu s

wo rshipp e d S u c h fi gu res a r e v a ri e d a cc o rdi ng to

.

t he scho o l O f t h e d isc i ple ! so m e p a tt e rns a r e

ro u n d e d so m e Ob lon g oth e rs squ a r e ; a n d tr a c e d
, ,

i n c ol o re d ch a lks th e y r e s e m bl e th e d e co r a tive p a v e
,

m e nt d r a wi ngs u se d fo r a dv e rti se m e nts i n c i ti es

-
.

F a rth e r o n a river i s c ro sse d b y a b rid g e O f b o a ts

wh i ch e a rn e d a titl e fo r th e a rch i t e ct Th e n a rrow .

str e a m i s b o rd er e d a n d sh a ded b y thi ck e ts O f c o c o a

“
n u t p a l m s wh i ch M a rk Tw a i n d escrib e s a s fe a th e r
-

”
d u sters stru ck b y l i g ht n i n g ,
I fa nc y th i s c o m e s
.

fro m th e sl a nti ng a ngl e o f th ei r sl e n d e r tru nks e n d ,

i n g i n a tu ft o f fe a th er y l e a ves wh i ch gives th e wh o l e
,

c o u ntr y t h e e ffe ct o f h a vi n g b een swept b y a h u r r i

c a n e T e n O f th e se co co a nu t -tr e e s a r e a n a tive s
.
’

w e d d i n g p o rti o n to h i s d a u ght e r — a v a l u a bl e h e ri
,

t a g e i nd e e d wh e n yo u co nsi d e r th e gr e a t p o ssib i liti es

,

o f u s e fu l n e ss to a n a tiv e ho u s e h ol d Th e S i n g a l e s e
.

r e l y s ol e l y o n th e l e a v e s fo r th a tchi n g th e i r h u ts ;
a v a i l th e m s e lves O f th e j u i ce c a ll e d l a dy fo r c o n
, ,

v i v i a l o cc a si o ns ; m a ke th e fib re i nto cloth ; t o s a y
n oth i n g o f th e co co a nu ts th e m s e lv e s whi ch fu rni sh
,

th e m m i lk a n d c a p i t a l c u rry .

A t l a st w e r e a c h e d th e j u n gl e Ev e r s i nc e I h a d
.

b ee n i n thi s c o u ntry I h a d b een p i ni n g to s e e a tro p

i c a l j u n gl e — a re a l h a u nt o f wi ld a ni m a l s a n d
,
5 2 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

d e a dl y s n a k e s O n b oth s i d e s o f th e ro a d stretc hed

.

a fo r e st O f thi ck i nt e rm i n a b l e gr e e n p a l ms a n d
, ,

b a n a n a s i nt e rwove n with vi n e s a n d cl i ngi ng pl a nts

, .

H e re we r e th e b re a d fru it tr e e s a n d sp r e a d i n g ma n
- -

go e s m a n y r a r e fe rn s a n d fa nt a sti c b u sh e s b esi des

, ,

t h e j a ck -tr e e who se m a m m oth gr e en fru i t sh a p ed

, ,

l ike a p ri ckl y go u rd ru ns tear l ik e d own t h e tru nk

-
, ,

i nst e a d o f growi n g p rop e rl y o n b r a nch e s i n a c o n

v e n t i o n a l m a nn e r It w a s a ll i nd e sc rib a bl y b e a u ti
.

fu l a n d a w e d o n e b y t h e i nt e ns e th e a bso lu t e si lenc e
, ,

o f d eso l a ti o n b ro ke n o n l y b y the b i rd d w e llers O f its

d a rk a n d lo n e l y d e pths Noth i ng c o u l d i nd u c e a .

p erso n oth e r th a n a n a tiv e o r a m ost e nth u s i a sti c

,

sp o rts m a n to ve ntu r e te n feet i n th e t a ll st e m s o f

,

p u rpl e fo l i a ge o r t h e gr e e n th i ck e t o f b r a n ch i n g
b o u gh s Th e v e g e t a tio n i s a l mo st to o l u xu ri a nt ; i t
.

go e s a g a i nst m a n s e ffo rts tow a rds c u ltiv a ti o n a s th e

’

A rcti c b a rr e n n e ss wo u ld d is c o u r a g e o n e i n th is l a c k
Of veg e t ti o n Ev e r ythi n g grows S O r a nk
a —c u t a w a
.
, y
a ro ot a n d fl ow e rs wi ll c ov e r t h e e a rth ; a li ttl e twi g
,

stu ck i nto th e gro u n d b e c o m es a tr e e i n a ye a r .

I wi sh I c o u l d t a k e s o m e o f th e fa sci n a ti n g ph oto
gr a ph s o n e c o u l d s o e a si l y m a k e Ev e r y sp ot i s a .

p i ctu re ; a n d th ere a r e s o m a n y d el i c i o u s p l a c e s a n d
q u eer scen es th a t a c a m er a wo u l d b e b etter th a n a
vo l u m e O f l ette rs N o w a n d th e n we p a ss n a tive .

h uts th a tch e d d own to th e gro u n d wi th co co a n u t

,

fib re wh e re fro m th e i nky b l a ckness o f th e o nl y

, ,
 TH E I S L A ND OF CE YL O N .
53

o p e n i ng i n th e h o u s e a n a tiv e a pp e a rs i n h i s r a gg e d
,

w a i st-cloth o nl y l e ss d a rk th a n h i s h a b it a tio n Th e
, .

o nl y to u c h O f co lo r i s th e gr e a t ye llow ste m o f
b a nan a s h a ngi ng i n the d o o rw a y c u t fresh th i s ,

m o rni ng fro m hi s o w n sto ck o f tr e e s i n the j u ngl e .

Th e s e h e ma y d isp os e o f d u ri n g th e d a y fo r a co u p le
o f a nn a s sho u ld a p a ss e r -b y h a ve n ee d o f th e m
, .

Th e t e m p l e s a t K a l a n i e fo r m a c o ll e cti o n o f ru d e
a n d neglect e d sh ri n e s d i rt y a n d i ll k e pt b u t i nter e st
,
-
,

i n g a s th e Old est B u d d h ist re m a i ns i n C e ylo n K a .

l a n i e w a s o nc e a fa m o u s s e a t o f B u ddhi st l e a rn i n g ,

an d known a l l over t h e E astern wo rld Wh a t a .

ch a ng e ,
a l m o st a ll tr a c e s O f fo rm e r gr a nd e u r
h a ve v a n i sh e d ! T he m ost a n c i ent b u ild i ng i s a ki ln
sh a p e d wh i t e -pl a st e r e d to p e its b a s e h a l f h i dd e n
, ,

b y t a l l gr a ss e s Th e i nterio r r e m a i ns a s e c r e t ; n o
.

p e rm issi o n to vi sit th e sh ri n e h a s e v e r b ee n e xtend ed

to tr a v e ll e rs Th i s to p e i s cl a i m e d b y th e m o nks to
.

d a te with th e p yr a m i ds a n a nti qu ity v e r y a b su rd a n d

u n fo u n d e d a c co rd i n g to a r e c e nt st a t e m e nt o f M a x
M il l l e r w h o p l a c e s th e e a r l i e st Ve d i c h ym n s a bo u t
,

1 5 00 B C . and
.
, d e c l a r e s th a t B u ddhi s m st a nds to
B r a h m i n is m a s P r o t e s t a n i s m st a nd s to Ro m a n C a t h o
l i c i s m ; a n d to e ffe ct s u ch ch a ng e s a n d r e fo rm s r e
qu i r es c e ntu ri e s S O th e e no rmo u s a nti q u ity o f o u r
.

K a l a n i e top e m u st b e b ro u ght fo rw a rd fro m th e

y o uth O f th e wo rld i nto h e r m o r e vi go ro u s a g e I t .

“
h a s b e e n tru l y s a i d th a t O ri e nt a l sch ol a rsh i p h a s
,

wro u ght an al m ost m i r a cu lo u s chan ge am o n g th e

54 A GI R L ’
S WI N TE R I N I ND I A .

ru i n s O f th e p a st Wh a t w a s Ol d ha s b eco m e n ew ;
.

wh a t w a s yo u ng h a s b eco m e Old .

, a f
C h il dr e n b e u ti u l d rk e ye d c hi ld ren O ffe r u s
a -
, ,

tem p l e fl ow e rs a n d o n s e e i ng u s a rriv e c r y i n a
, , , ,

w e ll m e a nt e ffo rt O f w e lc o m e
- Go o d -b y l a d y '
,
“
,

”
go o d -b y . Th e y a r e s i mp l y t h e m o st l ov e l y ch i l
d r e n e v e r s e e n wi th gr e a t d r e a m y e ye s a n d b ri ght
,

exp r e ss ive fa c e s T h e y a r e a gr e a t d e a l p r e tti e r

.

and m o r e gr a ce fu l th a n o u r vi ll a ge c h ild r e n a n d ,

c a m e sw a rm i n g a ro u nd u s d a rti n g b e h i n d so m e
,

Shelter wh e n w a rn e d b y th e p ri e sts i n e m p h a ti c
S i n g a lese a n d g e stu r e s wh i ch w e c o u l d u nd e rst a nd
, ,

a t l e a st th a t th e y m u st l e a v e o u r l a d ysh i p s i n p e a c e .

Two p ri e sts we r e b e i n g pho to gr a p h e d b y a n a ma

t e u r u n d e r a s a c r e d b O tr e e
- W e Obs e rv e t h e m i ld
.

b r e th re n O f th e ye llow ro b e i n sp it e O f th e i r p e r
,

fe c t ly i mp a ssive co u nt e n a n c e s e x p r e ssi ng a wo u ld -be

a tt a i n m e nt o f a n e a rthl y N i rv a n a sh ow th a t li ttle ,

to u ch O f h u m a n v a n ity i n p os i ng b e fo r e th e c a m e r a
, ,

wh i ch m a k e s t h e who l e wo rl d ki n O n e o f t h e .

p ri e sts a ft e rw a rd s vo l u nte e re d to Sh ow u s th e t e m
pl es wh e r e the l i fe a n d wo rk O f B u d dh a w a s ru d e l y
,

p i ctu r e d i n b ri ght c o lo rs o n t h e w a lls A fter a .

stru ggl e to c o nqu er Engl ish wo rds wh i c h I th o u ght ,

wo u ld c a u s e h i s su dd e n de a th the yellow p ri est , ,

e xh a u st e d fro m h i s l a b o rs d rew a d i sco nso l a te ,

b re a th a n d p o i nti n g to th e still u n e xpl a i n e d p i c

,

tu r e s a n d scu l p tu r e s o f h i s m a st e r B u d dh a s a i d , ,

Lad y know rep eat E dwi n A rn ol d ; l a d y kno w

 TH E I S L A ND OF CE YL o N .
55

“
r ep e a t e v e r yth i n g wh i ch m e a ns th a t th e Li ght
,

Of A si,a
”
c o nt a i n i n g B u d dh a s l i fe — ’
h i sto r y wo uld ,

r e l iev e th e p o o r m o nk o f futu re e ffo rts to e nli ght e n

u s I t i s a p e r fe ct e nch a ntm e n t to b e h ere ; th e qu i e t
.

B u d dhi st t e m p l e the i m p a ss iv e p ri e sts th e ro gu i sh

, ,

l i ttle fa i ri e s o f c h i ld r e n a n d o u rselv e s, th e h e i rs O f ,

a ll th e a g e s m e e ti n g i n th i s d ist a nt m yst e ri o u s a n d
, , ,

s a c r e d pl a c e O f th e a nc i e nt r e ligi o n B u t the s u n i s .

g e tti n g h igh a n d i t i s qu ite ti m e w e w e re st a rti ng

,

fo r ho m e .

D e c e mb e r 3 1 .

W e l e ft C o lo mb o a t s e v e n ye st e rd a y m o rn i n g , ,

fo r th i s m o u nt a i n r e tr e a t O f K a n d y Th e b a gg a ge .

c o ns i st e d o f o u r Engli sh b ox e s i n t he v a n s e v e n ,

c u sh io ns o n e qu i lt e d co m fo rt e r o n e l u n ch -b a sket
, , ,

fo u r l a rg e a n d two sm a l l b a gs th r e e h e a v y ru gs , ,

with n u m e ro u s j a c k e ts a n d c o a ts O u r d e sti n a ti o n .

i s s e v e nty two m i l e s fro m C o l o mb o ; b u t i t m u st b e

-

a cknowl e d g e d th a t e a c h m i l e m i ght fa i rl
y c o u nt fo r si x

A m e ri c a n o n e s i f th e d i ffi c ulty O f g e tti ng ov e r it wer e

c o nsi d e r e d ! so th e j o u rn e y o cc u p i ed fo u r ho u rs O f
a b e a u ti fu l m o rni n g a n d th e ro a d cli mb e d a s u c
,

c e ss i o n O f h i lls a n d fro m th e to p O f e a c h o p en e d a
,

wi d e a n d lov e l y p rosp e ct .

W e tr a v e ll e d i n a n o p e n a i r y tro p i c a l r a i lw a y
, ,

c a rri a g e with c u sh i o n e d s e a ts a ro u nd th r e e si des o f

,

th e c o mp a rtm e n t witho u t wi ndow -gl a ss a n d sh a de d

, ,

fro m th e s u n s r a ys b y a n ov e rh a ng i n g ro o f
’
Th i s .
 6 WI N I ND I A
’

5 A CI RL S TE R I N .

ro a d w a s b u ilt u nder gr e a t d i ffi c u lti e s to c o nnect

, ,

C o lo m b o wi th th e c o o l m o u nt a i n h e ights o f fro sty

N e u r a e ll i a ; a n d K a nd y i s th e fi rst st a g e o n th e
j o u rn e y .I t i s d i ffic u lt to i m a gin e h ow thi s ro a d
c o u l d b e b u i lt th ro u gh th e m a rsh y co u ntry b e low t h e
h i lls,
- a p e r fe ct l a b o r a to r y O f fe v e rs a n d oth e r
d e a dl y e n e mi e s O f m a nki nd K a nd y i s 1 6 5 0 fee t
.

a b ove m e a n se a l e ve l ;
-
and th e cl i m a t e i s sev e r a l
d e grees co ol e r th a n o n th e co a st .

I t i s h ol i d a y ti m e ; a n d a ll th e gov e rn m e nt O ffic i a ls
-

Of C o lo mb o h a v e r u n u p to e nj o y th e i r C hri stm a s
sp o rts m a de p o ssib l e b y th i s c o o l e r a tmo s ph e r e
, .

Th e n c i e nt c h i e fs O f K a n d y h a d a r a nk a n d p ow e r
a

a mo n g th e gre a test i n th e i sl a nd T o d a y th ere

- .

re m a i n s O f t h e a nc i ent ki ngd o m b u t a so u veni r O f

gr a y-b e a rd e d m e n I n th e fa r d i st a nce o n e c a n
.

d i sc e rn o n c l e a r d a ys a h i g h bl u e c h a i n O f m o u n
,

t a i ns c rown e d with th e w e ll -known A d a m s P e a k ’

.

I t s e e m s th a t n e a r th e s u m m it O f th e p e a k o n e fi nd s
i n th e ro c k a c a vity wh ich p rod u c e s a v e r y fa ith fu l
e ffe c t o f a gi g a nti c hu m a n fo ot Thi s e xc a v a ti o n i s
.

c l a i m e d b y th e H i n d u s wh o r e c o gni z e h e r e the
,

fo ot O f S iv a ; th e B u ddhists o f B u ddh a ; th e C hi n e s e
, ,

a nothe r p a tro n s a i nt ; th e M a ho m e t a ns A d a m ; ,

and th e Po rtu gu es e I b e li e v e v e ry a pp rop ri a t e l y

, ,

cl a i m i t fo r D o u bti ng Tho m a s TO d a y i t i s p o s
-
.

s ess e d b y th e B u d dhi sts wh o h a ve r a i s e d th er e a

,

l ittle ch a p e l — a s a c re d pl a c e o f p il gri m a g e
,
.
5 8 A GI R L ’
S WI IV TE R IN I ND I A .

sh ow e r o f go r g e o u s r e d flow e rs A l l o u r h ot-ho u se .

p l a n ts ru n p e r fe ctl y wi l d ov e r th e co u nt r y i n gr e a t e st
p ro fu si o n S u ch a s p ot ! O n e m u st b e s i le nt o r fa i l
. ,

i n th e a tt e m p t to d e sc ri b e th e b e a u ti fu l fe rns a n d
foli a g e growi ng i n t h e d a m p sh a d y fo rest , .

L a t e r i n th e a ft e r no o n w e e e nt e r t h e town a n d
r -
,

p a ss s o m e sho p s Th e K a n d i a n m e rch a nts a r e very

.

a nx i o u s fo r th e u nw a r y tr a v e ll e r to ent e r th e i r li ttle

tr a p s a n d m ost p i ctu r e s qu e a n d p e rs u a siv e th e y a r e

,

i n showi ng th e i r d eli c a t e Tep o u s s e go l d a n d si lver ’

wo rk I n Ol d e n ti m e s K a ndi a n kn iv e s wer e a m o n g
.
,

t h e m o st fa m o u s i n th e wo rl d F e w a n c i ent s p e c i
.

m e ns ex i st o u ts i d e O f t h e m u s e u m ; b u t e v e r y s h O p
c o nt a i ns cl e v e r i m it a ti o ns b u ri e d i n t h e e a rth fo r
,

y e a rs ,to obt a i n t h e a nci ent ru st a n d m o u ld A wh it e .

tu rb a n e d B o mb a y m e rch a nt i s s e ll i n g th e s e kn iv e s ,

e xqu i s it e l y wro u ght a n d ch a s e d i n si lv e r We a r e o n .

t h e p o i nt O f b e i n g t e m p t e d b u t stop to l ist e n to a
,

w a rn i n g sto ry to l d u s b y o u r c o m p a n i o n a n Ol d t e a ,

“
p l a nter s e v e r a l ye a rs i n C e yl o n
, N o t m a n y ye a rs .

ago , h e s a ys M r L
, . fro m Lo n d o n a w e ll -kn own ,

d e a le r i n E a st e rn c u ri o s st a ye d a t K a n d y H e w a s
, .

fa sc i n a te d o n e d a y i nto b a rg a i n i n g fo r a n o l d kni fe ,

3 K a nd i a n bl a d e s a i d to b e a t l e a st two tho u s a n d
,

y e a rs Ol d b
, e l o n gi n g th e m erch
, a nt d e cl a r e d to hi s ,

o w n gr e a t gr a nd fa th e r wh o h a d i nh e rit e d i t
-
, Whi le .

th e b a rg a i n w a s go i n g o n M r L to o k o u t h i s
, .

h a ndkerch i e f a n d qu i etl y c o m me nced ru bb i n g the

 IN A S I NG A L E S E P A RA DI S E .

59

b l a d e o f th e kni fe T h e m e rch a nt went o n b a rg a i n

.

i ng a n d M r L
,
. p o lish i n g th e b l a d e u nti l th e ,

o ri gi n a l m a rk w a s shown ; then h e s a i d to th e a s
t o n i s h e d m e rch a nt ! Yo u s a y th i s b e lo n g e d to
‘

y o u r gr a nd fa ther ; d i d yo u r gr a n d fa the r l ive i n

Unp ro gress ive K a n d y yo u a r e s o i nd es crib a b l y

,

E a stern a n d i n e xp r e ss ib l y qu e e r s o slow i n so m e ,

resp e cts to a d op t n ew i d e a s ye t s o wi lli n g i n o th e r

,

w a ys to go o n wi th th e ti m e s ! F a n c y th e s c e n e I
wi tness e d to -d a y fro m my b a lco n y wi nd ow A n u m .

b er o f c o ol i e s l e t d own b u ck e ts i nto t he l a ke Opp os ite

th e h otel filled the m wit h w a t e r a n d sc a tt e r e d i n a l l
, ,

d i recti o ns ov e r th e town to s p ri nkl e th e d u sty str ee ts .

Th e t a lk a t d i nn e r l a st ev e n i n g r a n o n th i s s a m e su b
j e c t,
— th e u nr e a d i n e ss o f th e n a tives to a dop t n e w
c u sto m s ; a n d fo r i llu str a ti o n I l i st e n e d to a sto ry
,

s o m e th i ng l ik e th i s ! Wh e n th e r a i l ro a d w a s b e i n g
m a d e to K a nd y th e l a b o ri ng n a tives u sed a so rt O f
,

p rehi sto ri c p i c k a n d sh ov e l c o mb i n e d to b r e a k th e ,

gro u n d a n d t a k e th e d i rt a w a y a t th e s a m e ti m e .

Th e wo rk w a s S O slow a n d w e a riso m e fo r th e co o li e s ,

th a t so m e h u m a n e co ntr a c to r b o u ght th e m wh e e l
b a rrows N ow wh a t d o yo u th i nk th e y d i d wi th
.
,

th e se n e w a n d str a ng e i mp l e m ents ? Pu t th e m a t
o n ce o n th e i r h e a d s a n d c a rri ed th e m F ro m c a rr y .

in g th e i r fru its a n d b a sk e ts o n the i r h e a ds th e ,

n a tiv e s h a ve a t l e a st l e a rn e d to w a lk su p erbl y a n d ,

to h ol d th emselves straight a n d well .

60 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

Fo r m a n y d a ys i t h a s not o nl y b e e n v e ry warm i n
th e s u n b u t a l i ght h ot a i r h a s bl own ove r eve r yth i n g
, ,

n ot stro ng eno u gh to b e c a ll e d a h ot wi n d ye t i t ,

s o m e ti m e s s co rches l ik e the b re a th fro m a fu rn a c e

mo u th . Th e h e a t a t m i d d a y i s so m e th i ng d re a d fu l ;
-

b u t w e a r e c a u tio ned th a t th e d a m p a i r o f th e ev e n
i n g wi ll b ri n g o u t a n y fever yo u ma y h a ve l u rki n g
a bout y ,
o u we r a rel y s i t i n t h e wi n d b y n i ght
so ,

a n d b y d a y a vo i d th e s u n a s w e wo u l d th e e vi l o n e .

Th i s C e ylo n with a l l its fa sc i n a ti o n o f l i fe a n d

,

s c en ery i s b u t a gild e d c a g e w e ll e no u gh to vi si t
, ,

and ke e p l ovel y m e m o ri e s o f h er e a ft e r b u t o n e ,

wo u l d n o t l ive h e r e to p o ssess t h e rub i e s o f i ts ri ch e st

m o u nt a i ns Y o u c a n n ot h e lp feel in g a g e n u i ne s ym
.

p a th y fo r th e se p o o r E ngl i sh yo u ng e r s o ns o r stru g ,

gli ng p l a nters w ho o w n p l a nt a ti o ns a n d l i ve i n th e
, ,

m i dst O f th e i r co o l i e s fa r a w a y o n th e m o u nt a i no u s
t e a est a tes ; th e y a l l d i sli ke th e l i fe w h i ch m e a n s
-
,

s e p a r a ti o n fro m fa m i l y a n d c o u ntry a n d ru sh b a ck ,

to th e i r c ol d a n d fo gg y E n g l a n d the v e ry m o m ent
th e go ld e n w a y i s wi d e e n o u gh fo r the m to w a lk
o n it .

O n e o f th e s e t e a -est a tes l i e s a b o u t fo u r m il e s fro m

th e town a n d i t w a s th er e w e d rov e th i s a ftern o o n
,

a fter fo u r
’
o clo ck t e a Le a vi n g K a n d y i n a fe w
.
,

m i nu t e s w e were a m i d th e tro p i c a l v e get a ti o n wh i c h

m a kes a gr e e n a n d t a ngl e d gi rd l e a b o u t th e Ol d town
a s fa r a s th e e e c a n re a ch Pl u n gi n g th ro u gh th e
y .
 ! IV A S I NG A L E S E P A RA D I S E . 61

s a nd y ro a dw a y o u r d e sti n a tio n w a s r e a ch e d i n p a ss
,

i ng fi e lds O f r e e d y b a mb o o s c i nch o n a t ree s a n d ru st

,
-
,

l i n g b ro a d -l e a v e d b a n a n a s to a c l e a ri ng wh e r e th e
, ,

te a -ho u s e st a nds fo ld e d a b o u t b y th e rolli n g h ills

, ,

pl a nte d with th e s e nti n e l l ike b u sh e s O f the t e a p l a nt

- -
.

H ow gr e e n a n d fr a gr a nt a n d qu i e t i t a ll i s ! N othi n g
c o u l d b e a gr e a t e r co ntr a st to th e b u stli n g fa cto r y
l i fe o f o u r c o u ntr y towns th a n th i s qu i e t s c e n e ,

wh e r e s o ft -fo ot e d co o li e s m ov e n o i s e l e ssl y a bo u t
thei r v a ri o u s o cc u p a tio ns O f so rti n g d ryi n g a n d , ,

p i cki n g th e t e a le a v e s wi th a s l ittl e b u stle a n d

-
,

c l a tt e r a s s o m a n y d a rk b a r e fo ot e d ghosts
, Th e .

own e r o f th i s t e a est a t e i s a M r A
-
a n d it is
.

— “
c a lle d b y th e so ft so u n di ng n a m e O f P e r a d e n i ya ”
.

Th e t e a w a s growi ng o n s m a ll stubb y b u sh e s a bo u t ,

one or two fee t fro m th e gro u nd ; ex cepti n g a fe w

m o nth s d u ri n g t h e s u mm e r i t i s p i cke d the ye a r
,

ro u nd H u ndr e ds O f d a r k -ski nn e d n a ti ves g o fo rth

.

i n th e e a rl y m o rn i ng a rm e d fo r th e wo rk wi th lo n g
,

r e e d b a sk e ts c a rri e d o n th e i r h e a ds — th e m e n with ,

a fe w a rds o f m u sli n fa st e n e d a b o u t th e w i st th e
y a ;
wo m e n b ri ghtl y d r a p e d i n cotto ns fa lli n g gr a c e fu ll y ,

fro m t h e sho u ld e rs to th e b a re k n e e o n e e n d O f ,

t h e s c a r f th rown c o m p l e t e l y ov e r th e h e a d B ri gh t .

b its O f co lo r e d gl a ss m a d e i nto j e w e lry d ec o r a t e th e

thro a t ; a n d fro m fe e t a n d a nkl e s e a rs a n d no s e , ,

a r e lo op e d c i rcl e s o f gol d m o re o r less v a lu a b l e

, ,

wh i ch a r e the wo m en s p rid e o f li fe Even l ittle

’

.
62 A C I RL S
’
WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

ch i ld r e n a r e p r e ss e d i nto the s e rvi c e ,

— sol e m n l i ttl e
, ,

sa d -e ye d ch i ld r e n stu nt e d a n d ov e rwo rk e d a s di ffe r

, ,

e n t a s p oss ib l e fro m t h e l a u ghi ng a n d c a p e ri n g bo ys

a n d gi rls O f oth er l a n ds .

Th e c o o li e s p i c k o nl y th e fi rst thr e e o r fo u r l e a v e s
o f th e p l a nt ; th e l a rg e r l e a v e s m a ke th e c o a rs e t e a ,

th e s m a ll e r a n d mo r e t e n d e r o n e s th e m e d i u m
g r a d e s ; a n d t h e d e li c i o u s o r a ng e P e ko e i s p ro d u c e d
fro m t h e fi rst l e a f a n d th e li ttl e ye llo w b u d th a t grow
a t t hee nd s O f the st e m A s e a c h b a sk e t i s fill e d i t
.
,

i s b ro u ght b y th e n a tiv e s to th e r e ce ivi n g ro o m O f t h e -

-h o u se a n d w e i gh e d e a c h o n e s e p a r a t e ly a n d p a y
t ea , ,

giv e n to t he c o ol i e on th e sp ot . I t i s d i fficu lt to
i m a gi ne a m o r e p i ctu r e sq u e s ce n e th a n th e s e p e o p le
p res e nt i n th e i r g a y d r e ss e s fili n g i n th ro u gh t h e ,

do o rw a ys a n d h e a p i ng u p th e gr e a t ri c h gr e en O f
,

th e t e a l e a v e s i n ma ss e s a l m ost a s t a ll a s th e ms e lv e s
-
.

A ft e r th e gr e e n l e a v e s h a v e b ee n s c a tt e r e d o n c a nv a s
fr a m e s to with er fo r a da y an d a h a l f th e l e a f i s t a k e n
,

to fo m e nti n g v a ts th e n d ri e d i n fu rn a c e h e a t a n d
,

s i ft e d wh e n t h e fi n e st q u a li ty fa lls i nto o n e b o x th e
, ,

c o a rs e r i nto a noth er wh i c h b e co m es P ek o e th e n e xt
, ,

gr a d e b rok e n P e ko e a n d S o u ch o n g ; a ft e rw a rds
, ,

sc r a ps d u st a n d sc r a p i n gs O f th e t e a fa ll fro m th e
, ,

S i fter Th i s i s t h e t e a whi c h i s c o nsi d e r e d b y th e

.

fi rst p l a nters t h e b e st i n t h e m a rk e t a n d i s a lw a ys ,

u se d fo r th e i r o w n t e a -d ri nki n g ; a s o n e c a n e a sil y
s e e i t m u st b e th e ver y s m a llest a n d m ost d eli c a te
,
64 GI R L WI NTE R IN DIA
’
A S IN .

g a mb o g e -tre e o f C e ylo n wh i ch c o nt a i ns th e ye llow

,

c olo r i n i ts s a p a n d b e a r s fru i t go l d e n a n d j u ic y ; a n d
wi ld b a n a n a -tr e e s a s i ngl e l e a f fro m wh i c h wo u l d
,

c loth e a ma n fro m h e a d to fo ot I n fa ct th e g a rd e n .
, ,

a n d K a n d y i ts e l f a r e a s o rt o f b o t a n i c a l N o a h s A r k
’

, ,

wh e r e e v e r y p l a nt i s r e p r e s e nt e d fro m th e t a l l ,

t a lip o t-p a l m wh i c h b e a rs m a j e sti c fl ow e rs o nc e i n

,

fi fty ye a rs a n d th e n d i e s to t h e s i m p l e whit e j e ss a
,

m i n e O f o u r C a rol i n a h e dges O rchi ds fl u tt e r like

.

b right co lo r e d b i rd s fro m th e b r a nc h e s O f t h e t a ll
-

tr e e s a n d th e a i r i s Opp ressive wi th th e s c ent o f a

,

h u n d r e d bl osso m s o f th e g a rd e n flowers Th es e a r e .

th e p u bl i c g a rd e n s o f C e ylo n a n d a r e kep t i n o rd er
,

b y th e govern m en t O ffi c i a ls .

I c a n no t l e av e thi s g a rd e n wi th o u t sp e a ki n g o f th e
p a l ms C ert a i nl y t h e gre a t fe a tu r e o f P e r a d e ni ya
.
,

i s th e s e gr a ce ful tre es growi n g i n th i ck e ts a n d m a ss e s

’

o n ev e r y s i d e wh i ch e v e r w a y yo u tu rn a n d I sh o u l d ,

thi nk o f a t le a st a h u n d r e d d i fferent v a ri e ti e s — not

th e fr a gil e nu rsli n gs O f o u r greenho u s e s with th ei r ,

fe w p r e c i o u s le a v e s to b e gu a rd e d a n d c a r e d fo r
,

a g a i nst c o l d o r ch a nge O f t e mper a tu re ; i n th i s

c o u ntr y p a l m s gro w a s th e y m i ght h a v e grown i n
th e g a rd e n o f Ed e n th e i r m a ss ive l e a v e s p iled o n e
,

a g a i nst th e o th e r i n d ense p ro fu si o n m a ki n g th e ,

gr a ce fu l sh a d e trees s o O ft e n sp ok e n o f i n B i bl e
h isto r y Yo u c o u l d w a nd e r fo r a c r e s a n d a c res
.

a m o n g th e a c a c i a s a n d m a ngo es b ut y o u c a n n e ver,
 IN A S I NGA L E S E P A RA D I S E .
65

g e t a w a y fro m th e p a l ms o f a ll d e scrip ti o ns fro m th e ,

g i a nt fi g to th e Flo ri d a p a l m e tto A ft e r s
. ee i ng th e
g a rd ens th e r e c a n no l o nger b e a n y d o u bt i n o n e s
,
’

m i n d th a t C e ylo n s cl a i m to b e th e h o m e o f th e
’

“
gr a nd O l d g a rd e n e r a n d h i s wi fe i s a t l e a st w e ll
fo u nd e d fo r c e r t a i nl y h ere
, e v e ry p rosp e ct p l e a s e s ,

a s Bi shop H e b e r s a ys ; a n d th e fi rst ma n i s w a s a n d , ,

e ver wi ll b e a cc o rd i n g to t h e E nglish resi de nts

,
’

Op i nio n O f th e n a tiv e ma n “
vi le
, .

N othi ng i s m o r e s u rp ri s i n g o n a fi rst visit to th e

E a st th a n to s e e h o w l ittl e c o n fid e n c e Eu ro p e a ns p u t
i n th e n a tives a n d h o w e xtr e m el y t h e y d i slike to
,

tru st th em I n C e ylo n i t s ee m s th a t i n th e c o u ntry

.
,

th e fru i t wo u ld b e m u ch i mp rove d were i t o nl y l e ft .

N ow th e s e E u rop e a n own e rs o f b a n a n a -trees c u t the

,

fru it gr e e n a n d h o u s e it fo r t h e h o rti cu ltu r a l n a tives

,

wo u l d c e rt a i nl y st e a l th e fru i t sho ul d i t re m a i n o n
th e tr e e s to ri p e n ther e b y d e p rivi n g the m o f th e i r
,

i nco m e fo r a wh o l e ye a r Ev e r y ma n st e a ls fro m
.

h i s n e i g hb o r e v e r y v i ll a ge fro m th e n e xt a n d e v e ry
, ,

p rovi n c e fro m th e o n e a dj o i n i n g I n S p it e o f th i s
.

u n fo rtu n a t e tr a i t i n th e i r ch a r a cters th e n a tiv e s a r e

,

u nd o ubted l y a n i nt e lli g e nt p e o p l e go o d n a tu r e d a n d
,
-

e a s y to i nfl u e nc e ; th e i r l a z i n e ss i s th e i r gr e a t d r a w
b a ck b u t th a t c a n b e r e a d il y u ndersto o d a n d c o n
,

d o n e d a ft e r e v e n a fe w we e ks a c qu a i nt a nc e with th e
’

tro p i c a l s u n O n e o f th e qu e e r c u sto m s i n th is
.

c o u ntry i s th a t th ere i s n o h a y m a de wh en th e s u n
66 WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A CI R L S IN .

Sh i nes ; o r i n fa c t a t a n y oth er ti m e n o h a y a n d
, , ,

n o h a rv e sti n g Wh e n a ho rs e i s to b e fe d a n a tiv e
.
,

c o ol i e go e s o u t to a fi e l d o r d a m p Op e n p l a c e a n d
p u lls a w a y a t t h e gr a ss ; i n fi ft ee n m i n u t e s h e h a s
p i ck e d a l a rg e b u nch O f gr a ss ro ots a n d d i rt whi ch , , ,

h e m a k es u p i nto a l ittl e b u ndl e a n d sh a ki ng o u t th e ,

lo os e e a rth fe eds to h i s h o rs e s P a dd y a n d gr a m
, .

fo r m th e o a ts o f th e S i n g a l e s e h o rs e s P a dd y i s th e .

i sl a n d n a m e fo r r i c e wh i c h grows i n th e w e t t e rr a ces
, ,

an d i s a l mo st th e o nl y fo o d e ver s e e n b y th e n a tiv e
p o p u l a ti o n exc e p t b a n a n a s th e n a tiv e s b r e a d th e
, ,
’

gr e a t u niv e rs a l st a p l e fro m th e l i ttle th a tch ed h u t i n

,

th e j u n gl e to th e gov e rn o r s p a l a c e ’
.

K a nd y i s si tu a t e d a t th e fo ot O f a c i rcl e O f m o u n
t a i ns b a th e d b y a l ittl e l a ke wh e r e n u m e ro u s p a go
, ,

d a s a r e r e fl e ct e d with th e i r h e a vy b e l t o f p a l ms At .

t he h e a d O f th e l a k e st a nds th e t e m p l e o f th e B u d d h

i st m o nks a n d e v e r si nc e I h a v e b e e n h e r e I h a ve
,

lo ng e d to Vi sit i t T O -n i g ht j u st a s t h e s u n w a s
.
,

s e tti ng blo o d -red over th e ros y l a k e I h a d my wi sh e d ,

fo r e x p e r i e n c e Y o u hav e o nl y to w a lk a c ro ss the
.

b u n d a n d yo u a r e th ere — b e fo r e a low tu rret e d

, , ,

b u i ld i ng gr a y a n d m oss y s u rro u nd e d b y a m o a t
, ,
.

’
Thi s t e m p l e h ol ds th e p rec i o u s r e l i c O f B u d dh a s
to oth a n d i s t h e m ost s a c red sh ri n e o f B u d dh i s m
,

w e st O f C hi n a A t th e h e a d o f th e m a rb l e st a i rw a y
.

s its a yellow p r i est wh o r e c e i v e s a n n a s fro m t h e

,

fa ith fu l wh i le c lo se b y are m e n a rr a ngi n g fl owers i n

,
 IN A S I NG A L E S E P A RA D I S E .
67

b a skets a n d b u n ch es to b e p r e s e nt e d to th e i d ol I
, .

fo u nd m ys e l f i n a c rowd o f n a tiv e s o f a l l t yp e s a n d ,

co nditi o ns w a iti ng fo r th e h o u r wh e n th e Sh ri n e
,

wo u l d b e o p e n fo r th e a d o r a tio n o f th e p e op l e .

W e re it n o t fo r lo c a l co lo r o n e co u ld e a si l y i m a gi n e
,

o nes e l f b e fo r e so m e C a tho l i c s a n ctu a r y i n It a l y o r

Fr a nc e B u d dh a h a vi n g l e ft n o d o ctri ne O f th e e x
.

i st e n c e Go d o r o f th e so u l h i s d i sc ip l e s e x a lt e d
Of ,

th e i r m a st e r to th e p l a c e o f a d eity sh owin g th a t t h e , ,

n a tu r a l i nsti nct to wo rsh i p s o meth i ng m u st b e gr a ti

“
fi e d a n d p rovi n g th e tru th O f t h e Fr e nc h s a yi n g
,
If ,

there w e r e n o G o d i t wo u l d b e n e c ess a r y to i nvent

,

”
one . H a vi n g no S u p re m e B ei n g i n thei r reli gi o n ,

there i s no need o f a p ri estho o d — th e i nterm ed i a r y ,

b e tween Go d a n d ma n — s o i nste a d o f th e
, p riest
they h a ve th e m o nk A t s i x O c l o ck p r e c i s e l y a p
.
’

p e a rs a p ro cessio n o f m en b e a ti n g to mto m s a n d ,

r a ttli n g c ymb a ls m a k i ng a m o st fe ro c i o u s r a cket

, ,

u sh e ri ng i n two o f th e ye llow b r e th r e n wh o op e n th e ,

m a ssiv e c a rved do o r O f th e Sh ri n e fl a nk e d b y two ,

r e cli ni n g e l e ph a nts ; th en a ft e r u nl o cki n g a noth e r

,

si lver d o o r ent e r to g e th e r with a c rowd o f n a tiv e s

, ,

w h o p r e ss fo rw a rd a n d p e er th ro u gh th e b a rs wh i ch

s ep a r a t e u s fro m th e S i lver t a bl e wh e r e u nder a , ,

j e w e ll e d b e ll sh i ni n g with p r e c i o u s sto n e s i s th e
, ,

fa m o u s r e li c Yo u a r e d a zzl e d b y th e rub i e s s a p
.
,

h i
’

p r e s
, a n d tru e o ri ent a l c a t s -e e s
y i mb e d d e d i n th e ,

gol d en c ov e ri n g Th e to oth its e l f w e w e r e no t p er

.
‘
68 A CI R L S
’
WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

mi t t e d to b u t we we r e tol d th a t it w a s O f su ch
se e ;
s iz e th a t i t wo u ld giv e yo u a very p e c u li a r i m p r e s
s i o n O f i ts p o ssesso r i f i t i s n o t i n d e e d a s m a n y
, ,

p e opl e thi nk b o rrow e d fro m th e mo uth O f a ti g e r o r

,

c ro c o d ile Th e s e rvi c e s ee m e d to c o nsist i n O ffer

.

i ngs O f fl o w e r s — th e sw ee t b losso m s O f t h e t e mp le
,

fl ower fr a gr a nt j e ss a m i n e s a n d tu li p b u d s Thes e
, , .

fr a gr a nt gi fts a r e c le a red a w a y e very m o rni ng b y

a tten d a nt p ri e sts ; b u t s o fa ith fu l a r e th e vot a ri e s to

the sh ri n e th a t th e p l a ce i s n e ve r fre e fro m th e sw e e t

,

sc e nte d m a sses o f b lo s so m s showere d th e r e i n reck

l e ss p ro fu si o n . A ft e r le a vi n g we p e ere d ab o u t th e
,

m a rble g a lle ri es and c o rri do rs o f th e o u ter te mp le ,

s e e i n g s o m e wo n d e r fu l c a rvi n gs a n d grotes qu e
p a i nti n gs o f the B u ddh i st I n ferno Th e d i ffe rent .

p u ni sh m e nts m e ted o u t to b a d B u d dh ists a r e fres

c o e d i n b ri ght co lo rs o n th e w a lls a s i f fresh fro m ,

th e h a n d o f th e I t a l i a n a rti st O f t h e C a mp o S a n t O a t
Pi sa. F o r i nst a nc e th e n a tive w h o h a s o ffe nd e d th e
,

l a w i n t a k i n g a ni m a l l i fe i s p i ctu red a s a fi sh b ei n g
,

h o ok e d s u ccess iv e ly b y gi g a nti c fi sh-ho oks fro m ,

e a ch o f wh i c h h e rele a s e s h i ms e l f o nl y to fa ll b a ck
o n a gre a t e r o n e The i nte m per a te B u ddh ist i s m ost
.

a m u si ngl y r e p res e nte d a s receivi ng h i s p u n ish m ent

i n a m o re c ru e l m a nner th a n T a nt a l u s hi ms e l f The .

fr e sc o sh ows a ma n str e tch e d o u t o n a fi e r y b ed ,

wh ile a n i m p h overs ov e r h i m wi th a co ol i n g d ri nk ,

j u st o u t o f r e a ch o f h i s p arch ed lip s O ther tortu res .

 IN A S I NG A L E S E P ARA D I SE .
69

a re mo re c ru ell y i m a gi ned th a n tho s e o f G reek

m yth olo g y wh e r e m e n a n d wo m en m ost p a i n fu ll y
,

a scen d l a dd e rs o f swo rds a n d s o o n The Vi sit th a t

, .

I tr e a su r e m o st i n my m e m o r y w a s to a n u p p e r
ro o m O f th e templ e wh i ch i s u sed b y th e B u dd hi s t s
,

a s a lib r a r y Fi nd i n g sev e r a l p ri ests writi ng i n th e

.

ro o m w e h e s it a t e d to ente r ; b u t th ro u gh o u r gu id e
,

w e r e co rdi a ll y p resse d to d o so wi th tru e E a st e rn

h osp it a lity I c a n n e v e r d e scrib e th e i mp ressi o n
.

m a d e b y th e s e B u dd h i st monks s o c a l m a n d i mp a s ,

siv e u n e a r t hl ik e th e y s e e m
, th e v e ry l ivi n g ex a m
,

p l e O f th e l i n e s i n wh i ch E dwi n A rn old d escribes

the m i n t he Li gh t O f A si a
, F e e d s h i s sense .

N0 l o ng er o n fa lse sh o ws fi les his fi r m mi nd

,

T o seek n o t stri v e n o t wr o ng n o t ; be a ri n g meek

, ,

A l l i l ls which fl o w fr o m fo reg o n e wr o ng f ul ness ,

”
A n d s o c o n str a i n i ng p a ssi o n s th a t they d i e .

Th e ro o m w a s l i ned wi th c a s e s c o nt a i ni ng b o oks i n
m a n y l a ngu a g e s ; a mo n g oth ers well -known Engl i sh ,

works a n d sever a l A m eri c a n m a g a z i n es wh i ch the y ,

tol d u s thro u gh o u r i nterp rete r were i m m e nsel y

a p p reci a t e d b y th e b roth e rh o o d I n o n e b o okc a se .
,

b e h i nd th e gl a ss a r e th e d ri e d l e a v e s wh i c h Edwi n
,

A rnold g a th er e d fro m th e s a cr e d gro u n d a t B u d d h a

Gy a fr o m th e v e r y b o tr e e wh e r e th e gr e a t m a st e r
,
-

a cc o mp li sh e d h i s gre a t me d i t a ti o n Th e s e wer e .

p o i nted o u t to u s with gre a t p ri d e b y th e B u d dh i sts ,

“ ”
w h o a ft e rw a rds tol d u s th a t th e Li ght o f A s i a h ad
70 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

b ee n tr a nsl a ted i nto th e i r l a ngu a g e a n d i s c o n s i d

,

e red a gr e a t b o o k i n a ll th e E a st Th i s g a ve m e a n
.

i de a ; a n d I i m m e di a tel y d esp a tche d a little n a tive

g i rl to th e te m p le g a rd en to p i ck s o me l e a v e s fro m
,

th e s a c r e d b o tr e e o n wh i c h I r e v e rentl y a sk e d the
-
,

h i gh p ri est to write h i s na m e s a n d ti tl e s
- — a ch a r m ,

i n g s o uve n i r O f th e vi si t to th e B u d dhi st s a nctu m .

The m ost p r e c i o u s p ossessi o ns i n th e l ib r a ry w e re

c u ri o u s b o oks o f th e i r a n c i ent rel igi o n writt e n o n ,

th e d r y l e a ves o f t h e t a lip ot -p a l m a n d b o u n d ,

to geth e r with silv e r c ov e rs e x qu is i t e l y wro u ght a n d

e nc ru st e d wi th c o stl y j e w e ls I sho u l d not thi nk
.

th a t a n i nti m a t e a c q u a i nt a n c e wi th th e b o oks o f th a t
gr e a t l i b r a ry wo u l d b e c o nsi st e n t with th e B u d dh ist
theo r y O f l i fe whi c h s e e ms to c o nsi st p ri nc ip a ll y i n
,

c o ntem p l a ti n g o n e s e l f a n d s e e ki ng ch a rity Th e .

m ost c o m mo n s i g ht i n K a n d y i s a B u d d hist m o nk ,

st a nd i ng wi th d o w n c a st e yes a t th e d o o rw a y o f a
n a tiv e a c c o mp a n i e d b y a l ittl e n ovi c e w h o c a rri es
, ,

h i s u mb rell a A wo o d e n b owl i s h i dd en u nd e r the

.

fo lds o f h i s go wn to b e rep len ish e d with th e fo o d

,

wh i ch i s c o o k e d e very m o rni n g a n d set a p a rt fo r

the u s e O f th e p ri e sts wh o a r e forb i d d e n to a sk fo r
,

i t b u t go s i lent ly fro m h o u se t o h o u s e o ft e n wait

, ,

i ng on th e str ee t fo r h o u rs b e fo re th e y a r e ob serve d
a n d th e fo o d d ol e d o u t to th e m .

I h a ve a cq u i r e d so m e k nowl edge O f th e d u ti es
'

and c u ri o u s c e re m o n i a ls o f th e Tel zg zen x fro m a r e

7 2 A GI R L ’
S WI N TE R IN I I VD I A .

d e a th d i ffe r a s wi d e l y a s th e c a u s e s a ssi gned to h i s

t ki ng
a -O ff A T h ib e t i a n n a rr a tiv e a scrib es h i s d e
.

c e a s e to a sp i n a l m a l a d y b u t t h e S i ng a les e d i sc ip l e s
,

b e li e ve h e d i e d fro m m a ki n g an e xc e ssiv e m e a l o f
p o rk .

C O LO M B O J u ry 5 , an a .

I n C olo mb o o nc e m o re I t i s l ik e c o m i n g ho m e
. .

O u r Ol d fri en ds th e M a h o m e t a n sh opk e e p e rs i n
, ,

vi t e u s i n b y n a m e wh e n we p a ss th ei r Sh op s T h e .

j i nriki sh a c o ol i e s c rowd a ro u n d with th e i r fu nn y

l ittl e c o nv e ya n c e s wh i ch l o ok l i k e Ov e rgrown b a b y
,

c a rri a g e s r e a d y to c a rr y u s i n a n y d i r e cti o n fo r th e
,

v e ry m o d e r a t e co m p e ns a ti o n O f h a l f a ru p e e ( twent y
c e nts ! p e r h o u r ; o r w e m i ght ch o os e a b u llo ck c a rt -
,

one b u llo ck t e n c e nts a n ho u r ; wh i l e sti ll a noth e r

,

v e h i cl e a w a its o u r p l e a s u r e a S i n g a l e s e p a l a n qu i n
, ,

— a n o p e n c o a ch with tu rb a ned o u tri d e rs a n d the

,

u su a l b a r e fo oted r u n n e rs wh o cl e a r t h e w a y I n .

d e e d I h a v e sc a rc e l y s ee n a sh o e o r sto cki n g i n
,

C e ylo n We h a ve h a d a l o n g sho r e b r e e z e t o d a y
.
-
,

e nch a nti n g e no u gh i f o n e c o u l d o nl y e nj o y i t ; b u t
five m i nu t e s e x p os u re to th i s fa t a l wi n d wo u l d h a v e
’

a n a l m ost d is a stro u s e ffe ct These a r e t h e fa sc i n a

.

ti n g h o u rs b e tw e e n five a n d s i x wh e n a ll C e ylo n
, ,

t a k e s i ts e l f o ff to G a ll e F a c e to e nj o y th e r e fr e shi n g
,

gl i m p s e o f th e o c e a n ; a n d we a lso d e ci d e to w a lk o u t
o n th i s glo ri o u s p ro m e n a d e a n d t a k e o n e l a st Vi ew
,

o f t h e d e a r I nd i a n O c e a n We m ee t m a n y g a yl y
.
 IN A S I NG A L E S E P A RA D I SE .

73

p a i nted p a l a n qu i ns a n d c a tch gl i mp s e s o f th e wives

,

-
O f t h e n a tive gr a n d e e s i nsi d e who w e r l ow necke d
,
a

gowns d rivi n g o r w a lki ng

,
a v e r y s e ns ibl e c u sto m
,

i n thi s cli m a t e fo r t h e therm o m e t e r i n C e ylo n a v e r

,

a g e s a b o u t sevent y
-s i x t h e ye a r ro u nd ; t h e ho t
s e a so n b e i n g J a nu a r y F e b ru a r y a n d M a r c h wh i c h
, , ,

i s j u st t h e r e vers e O f wh a t w e a r e a cc u sto m e d to
e xp e ct D i st a nt o n l y th r e e a n d a h a l f d e gr e es fro m
.

th e e qu a to r th e d a ys a n d ni ghts a r e a l m ost o f e qu a l
,

l e ngth a n d ni ght fa lls wi th s c a rcel y a w a rn i ng lik e

, ,

a gr e a t bl a ck c u rt a i n r u n g d own o n a sc e n e i n t h e

th e a tr e a n d th e st a rs co m e o u t b ri ght a n d sh i n e
, ,

a s th e y o nl y c a n i n th e cl e a r E a st e r n a tm o sphere .

Fro m G a l l e F a c e th e s e a b r e a ks fo r m i l e s o n th e
c o r a l r e e fs th e fo a m i s toss e d O ff o f e m e r a l d w a v e s
,

fo r mil e s o n t h e r e d s a n d O f th e b e a ch Th e S k y.

t a k e s th a t p ec u l i a r a mb e r h u e wh i ch c o m e s b e fo re
a fi n e s u ns e t a n d th e s u n i ts e l f sp r e a d s lo ng p a rt
,

i n g fl a sh e s O f gold e n l ight ov e r e a rth a n d s e a ; a n d

ov e r a l l the sp ell th e glow o f th e co m i ng I ndi a n
,

n i ght.
74 GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

C H A PTER V I .

B O M BAY .

I N DI A N O C EA N , EN R OUTE M B AY
FO R BO .

P . an d O . S t e a me r T h me s J u ry 1 1
a ,
an a .

are still i n t h e tro p i c s b u t th e , se a a ir

- is
re fresh i n g a ft e r the gl a re O f s a n d an d to rri d
h e a t i n C e ylo n . Th e w a t e r i s s m o oth , and d o es no t
by a ny m e a n s Sh o w it s sto rm y ch a r a ct e r . We a re

ski rti n g cl ose to th e W e st e rn Gh a u ts l ow b rown , ,

a n d ye ll owi sh i n c olo r a n d d ott e d with stu bb y gr e en

,

trees . Th e se Gh a u ts fo r m a n a tu r a l w a l l Of d e fe nc e
r u n n i ng a l o n g th e enti re co a st fro m B o mb a y to C a p e
C o m o ri n ; a n d we k eep the m w e ll i n si ght fro m
th e lo n g l o w s e a ch a i rs d r a wn cl os e t o th e w a ter
,
-
,

si d e u n d e r th e a wni n g wh e re we Sp e n d o u r d a ys
, .

Th e p a ssengers a r e th e u s u a l E ngli s h O ffi ce rs wi th ,

a sp ri nkl i n g O f to u ri sts F a r m o r e i nter e sti n g a r e

.

th e O ri e nt a l s i n t h e sec o n d c a b i n th e d a rk A fri
, ,

cans O r B o mb a y m e rch a nts d r a p ed i n th i n whi t e

, ,

m u sl i n a n d h i gh tu rb a ns ! th ere a r e a lso s eve r a l

P a rs ee m e n a n d wo m e n o n b o a rd wh o o cc u p y o n e ,

S i d e o f th e fo rw a rd d eck a n d a r e l e ft qu it e to th e m
,

s elves b y g e n er a l c o nsent Th e y b ri ng t h ei r o w n .
 B O A/B A Y .

75

servants a n d p rovi si o ns ; a n d a s yo u m a ke a c i rc u i t
o f th e sh i p yo u a r e s u re to c a tch a w h i ff o f d is a
,

r e e a b l e O do rs wh i c h m a kes u tu rn qu i ckl fro m

g , y o
y
th e i r Vi c i nity H e re th e y si t a l l d a y h u d dl e d to
.
,

gethe r a m on g s m oki n g d i shes o f u ns a vo ry fo o d o r ,

a sleep o n ru gs i n th e m i dst o f c a ckli n g ch i ck e ns

a n d ble a ti n g Sh eep wh i ch thei r c o oks wi ll p rep a re
,

fo r th e n e xt d a y s m e a l
’
Th e P a rs e e wo m e n a r e a s
.

s m a ll a n d d a i nty a s th e C h i nes e a n d w e a r l o ose , ,

b ri ght gr e en a n d gol d s a r i s } d r a p ed to c over th e m

-

fro m t he h e a d to th e l ittl e fe et i n o n e si ngl e p i e c e .

We l a nd a t fi v e O clo ck to d a y ’
- A l i ttle tu g .

steams u p t h e gre a t h a rb o r th ro u gh l i n e s o f w a r
,

shi p s a n d m erch a nt v e ss e l s o f a l l n a ti o n s l a nd i n g
-
,

o u r p a ssen gers a n d t he ro ya l m a i l at th e A p ollo

B u nd e r ; th e vo ya g e h a s b ee n s o s m o oth th a t i t
sc a rc e l y s e e ms th a t w e h a ve ch a nge d o n e e le m ent
fo r a noth e r We t a k e a gh a rr i to th e E sp l a n a d e
.

H o tel — a h i gh b rown c a r a v a ns a ry wi th m a n y v e
, ,

r a nd a s lo oki ng a c ro ss th e l a rg e o p en s qu a re e u
,
!

c i rcl e d b y gr e a t p u bli c b u il d i n gs a n d govern m e nt

O ffic es wh i ch r e m i nd yo u ver y m u ch o f a n E ngli sh
,

c ity . T h e streets a r e i rr e gu l a r b u t O f sp l e n d i d ,

d i m e nsi o ns b o rd e r e d with t a ll h o u s e s e a c h o n e
, ,

d i ffe ri n g fro m th e oth e r i n styl e a n d c o lo r th e ,

gro u nd fl o o r fo r m i n g th e sh o p s i n wh i c h o n e
-
,

ma y fi n d sp eci m ens O f e very styl e o f m erch a nd i se

1 S
, a sh ee t li k e n a ti ve d ra p e ry o f sil k o r musli n
an -
, ,
.
7 6 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

i n the East . Th e b u s y l i fe , h owever , o f th e b u s i

est c i ty a t h o m e c a n s c a rcel y i m it a t e th e tu rb u l e nt
w a v e s o f v a ri o u s n a ti o n a l iti e s th e b u stl i ng crowd s ,

o f th i s O ri ent a l c i t y Th ro u gh thes e str ee ts sw e ep

.

a v a ri e ty o f t yp e s a n d r a ces wh i ch o u trival i n ,

c o lo r a n d b ri ll i a nc y a n yth i n g o f th e ki nd i n t h e
E a st .
H e re a n d th er e a E u rop e a n i n c ivi li z e d ,

c l o th e s ma y b e see n wh o so o n d i s a pp e a rs i n the ,

o c e a n o f co lo r wh i c h se e m s a s i f t h e k a l e i doscop e
,

h a d b e e n b rok e n b y so m e gi a nt h a n d and th e ,

c o l o rs s c a tt e re d over e ve ryth i n g Th e r e a r e a s .

ma ny sh a d e s O f co lo r i n c o m pl e x i o n a s i n C O S
tu m e — ,
M a h o m et a ns wi th e no rm o u s tu rb a n s o f
,

gr e e n o r wh i te a n d lo ng b e a rd s d ye d a b ri lli a nt
,

r e d a s a p ro o f th a t th e y h a v e m a d e th e p ilgri m a ge
,

to M e cc a ; ri ch C h i nes e i n go rg e o u sl y e mb ro i d e r e d
,

p a nt a lo o n s a n d lo n g bl a ck c u es with S ilk v e sts u nd e r ,

wh it e s i lk r e d i n got e s th ei r p l e a te d u mb r e ll a s i n e vi
,

t a b l y r a i sed a b ov e th e h e a d ; P a rs e e s a ll i n wh ite , ,

wi th h i gh fu nn e l sh a p e d h a ts sp a ngl e d wi th bl a ck
,
-
,

a n d go l d wh i ch r e c e d e i n th e b a ck fo r m i ng a so rt
, ,

O f h o llow i n wh i c h i s p l a c e d a n i n do o r c a O f velv e t
, p
o r s a ti n A b ov e th i s th ro n g a Yo gi st a nds ri gi d o n
.
,

th e st e p s O f t h e H i nd u t e m ple g a u nt th i n a n d , , ,

i m m ov bl e
a — h i s sti ffe n e d l i mb s thi n n a ked a n d
, , , ,

c overed with a sh es ; h i s lo n g h a i r m a tt e d to g e th e r ,

with ro p e s h angs str a i ght to h i s w a i st Lo n g j a n gle

, .

h a rd shi p s h a ve s o we a k e n ed th e i ntellect to rtu re s u f , ,

 B OM B A Y .

77

fe r i n g , p en a nc e h a ve s o lon g b ee n h is fa t e th a t
an d ,

I th i nk th i s wo u ld b e h ol y ma n i s a l mo st a n i mb e
-

c i l e ; b u t S O wo rsh ip p ed a n d r e v e re nced b y th e H i n
d u s th a t th e y c rowd a b o u t h i m to m a rk thei r fa c es
wi th th e a sh es wh i c h c over h i s fl e sh with a s m u ch ,

d e voti o n a s A
th e p en itents o f s h Wed nes d a y i n C a th
-

o l i c c o u ntri e s .

Th e n a tiv e d w e ll i ngs a r e i n s e p a r a t e p a rts o f th e

town .Th e M a ho m e t a n qu a rter i s qu ite d isti nct
f o m th e H i n d u as the l a tte r i s fro m th e P a rs e e
r , .

A l l th a t p a rt o f Bo mb a y b o rd eri n g o n the w a te r i s
c a lle d T h e Fo rt wh ere are s i tu a ted p u b li c ed i fi ces
, ,

gov e rnm e nt O ffices t h e c ott a ges a n d ch u rches

, n ot
d i ffer n v e r y gr e a tl y fro m a n y o th er fi n e l y l a i d o u t
c ity . A t o n e e xtr e m ity ri s e s a wo o d e d h ill a n d ,

h ere a r e th e b u ng a l ows O f n e a rl y a ll O f th e O f
fic l i a p o p ul a ti o n H er e to o a.r e th e fl o w e r -t e rr a ce d
g a rd e ns o f th e P a rs ee s th a t str a n g e E a stern s e ct
,

O f fi r e -wo rsh i p p ers wh o cam e h ith e r m a n y years

,

a g o fro m
P e rsi a .

Th e P a rsees a r e th e Jews O f B o mb ay i ts ri ch e st ,

m e rch a nts i ts gr e a t e st b a nkers m ost h o no r e d c iti

, ,

z ens Li k e th e H e b rews th e y a r e g e nero u s a n d

.
,

ch a rit a bl e a n d a b e gg a r a m o n g th e m i s enti r e l y
,

u nk nown M a n y o f the m h a v e a m a ss e d c ol oss a l

.

fo rtu nes ; a n d i t m u st b e c o n fessed h a ve emp l o yed

, ,

th e m to th e b e n efit o f th e e nti re p op u l a ti o n O f
B o mb a y — H i nd u s a n d Eu rop eans as wel l as th ei r
, ,
78 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

o wn p eop le . S ever a l P a rs e e s h a v e b ee n kn i ghted

as a rew a rd fo r th e i r i m m e nse ch a rity S i r J a mse tj i .

Jj i i b h o i i s c a ll e d the b en e fa cto r O f h i s p eo p l e h i s ,

ch a riti es a m o u nti n g to tho u s a nds O f r u p e e s ,

h a vi n g b u i lt a hos p it a l m u s e u m s ro a ds a n d e u
, , ,

d owed c o ll e g e s e t c d u ri n g t h e l a st fi ft e e n ye a rs
, .
, .

Th e P a rs e es a r e i m m e ns e l y p a tri oti c a r e c o nsi d e r e d ,

t h e b e st s u bj e cts th a t Q u ee n V i cto ri a h a s i n I n d i a ,

a nd ma n
y h a v e p a ssed th ro u gh O x fo rd a n d C a m
b ri d g e i n a s go o d sh a p e a s t h e n a tiv e -b o rn En g
l i s h me n. Th e y wo rsh i p fi re i n th e i r t e m p l e s a n d ,

a r e s a i d to k e e p th e fl a m e a liv e b y c o nst a ntl y s u

p
pl yi n g i t with p rec i o u s essenc e s We we re n o t
.

a llow e d to e nt e r th ei r t e m p l e s wh i ch a r e n eve r p ro
,

fa n e d b y u nb e li evi n g tr a v e llers i t b ei n g a lm ost a n

,

i m possib i l ity to p ro c u r e a p e rm it Th e Z o ro a stri a n s

.

n ev e r s m oke b e c a u s e i t wo u l d b e s u ch u tt e r
,

wi ck e d n e ss to p u t o u t th e fi re o f ev e n th e s m a ll
est c i g a rett e ; a n d th e y em p lo y sp ec i a l H i nd u s e r
v a nts to e xti n gu ish th e l a m p s i n th e i r h o u ses .

The y a l so r e v e r e nc e gre a tl y a ll th e el e m e nts b ut , ,

a bov e , a ll th e s u n ; a lth o u gh I fa n c y a P a rse e

gr a du a t e o f O x fo rd wo u ld b e h i gh l y i nd i gn a nt
a t b e i n g d ubb ed a s u n - worshi pp er ! sti ll h e wo u l d
p rob a b l y a d m i t th a t h i s B o mb a y b roth e rs a do re
th e s u n i n th e i r p r a yers as b ei n g th e h i gh e st ma n
i fe s t a t i o n o f t h e greatn ess o f th e S u p re m e G o d
vi sibl e to our hu m an si ght .
80 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

l i fti ng u p th e i r h a nds s a y th ei r even i n g p rayer to

,

t h e setti n g s u n lo oki n g l ike a r a i nb ow b roke n u p i n

,

r a ys o f colo r a ll ov e r th e p a l m y p a th s a n d fern y
no oks O f t h e h illsi d e F a rther d own tow a rd t h e
.

w a ter s e dg e st a n d s o m e v e n e r a bl e P a rs e e s w i th
’

h a n ds o p e n b e fo r e thei r fa ces a n d h e a ds b ow e d ,

d own ev e n to th e e a rth rep e a ti ng i n t h e u nknown ,

l a ngu a g e o f th e Z e n d A v e st a th e p r a ye r O f a do r a
ti o n , t h e v e sp e r h ym n to the L i ght th a t li ght e th
”
e ve ry ma n .

B e fo r e w e l e a v e M a l a b a r H i ll s c a rcel y a m i le ,

fro m th e g a y s c e n e o f th e p l e a s u r e -lovi n g p e op le ,

th e d ri v e co nti nu e s tow a rd t h e P a rs e e p l a ce o f s e p
u l c hr e P a ssi ng th ro u gh the b o rd e r e d d rivew a y w e
.
,

re a ch i n h a l f a n ho u r t w o ye llow-a n d -wh ite g a tes ,

“
a n d a r e wi thi n t h e gro u n ds O f the Towers O f S i
”
lence A t th e e nd o f a fl i ght o f gr a n ite step s
.

str e t c h a c re s o f tr e es fl ow e rs
, , and cl u st e rs Of t he

cl i mb i n g p u rpl e B o rg a n V i lli a i n b ri ght b r a n ch es

over th e fr e sh yo u n g gr a ss Th e P a rs ee s h a ve s u r .

ro u n ded thi s gr e ws o m e a b o d e O f d e a th with ev e r y

ch a rm O f n a tu r a l b e a u ty to d i sp e l a s fa r a s p ossible
,

th e glo o m y i m p r e ssi o n m a d e b y th i s m a n n e r O f d i s
p o si n g o f th e i r de a d A p e c u li a ri ty o f th i s r e l i gi o n
.

i s th a t th e y n e v e r b u rn o r b u ry th e i r d e a d b u t tr a ns
, ,

p ort th e m to thi s pl a c e a fte r de a th str e tch e d o n i ro n ,

sl a ts a n d cover e d wi th wh ite H a l f h i d d e n i n d i ffer .

e nt pl a c e s am o n g the trees yo u fi nd the five wh ite

 B OI WB A Y 81

ci rc u l a r towers a n d fro m th e fl owery terr a c e s wh e r e

,

w e st a n d w e c a n s e e the v u ltu r e s p e rch e d i n th e

tu rr e ts a s th i ck a s th e y c a n c rowd to g e th e r O ther .

c a d a v e ro u s b i rd s h ov e r a b o u t th e tr e e s n e a r b y a n d ,

su d d e nl y swo o p d own tow a rds th e tow e rs ; fo r th e y

h a v e s ce nt e d a fu n e r a l a p p ro a ch i n g Fro m o u r .

p l a c e w e s e e fo u r p ri e stl y m e n i n l o o s e wh ite gown s

,

a n d t a ll whit e P a rs e e h a ts wi n di ng d own th e p a th
, .

Th e y c a r r y a w hj t e c ov e r e d fo rm str e tched o n a n
-
,

i ro n r a ck ; n e xt two m en a p p e a r
, th e y a r e th e
,

m o u rn e rs ,
-a n
d th e n two m o r e a ll i n the wh it e
,

l o os e gowns a n d wh it e s a sh es e a ch c o u p l e c a rryi ng
,

b e tw e e n th e m a h a ndk e rch i e f s y mb ol O f s ym p a th y
, .

A b o u t th i rty ya rd s fro m th e to w e r th e y sto p Th e .

‘

pri e sts a dv a n c e a lo n e u p a n i n c li n e Op en a d o o r , ,

and pl a c e th e fo rm o f th e d e a d o ne o n th e i ro n
v a u lti ng i nsi d e ; wh e n i n a m o m e nt m o r e th e v u l
tu r e s d e sc e nd a n d i n a h a l f h o u r noth i n g r e m a i ns
,
-

b u t th e b a r e sk e l e to n ! a noth e r fo rty-e i ght h o u rs ,

and th e p ri e sts e nt e r a g a i n a n d b y th ei r s a c r e d
,

h a n ds a lo n e th e b o n e s a r e g a th e r e d u p a n d p l a c e d
i n a w e ll i n th e ce ntr e o f th e tow e r Thi s w e l l .

i s i nt e nd e d to ho l d th e r e m a i ns u nti l th e y r e tu r n
to th e d u st a n d a r e l e d thro u gh a filt e r O f sto n e s
to th e e a r th I n th i s w a y th e e l e m e nts a r e n e v e r
.

p o ll ut e d wh i ch wo u ld b e a h i gh s i n i n t h e i r e ye s
,
.

N O P a rs e e wo m a n e v e r go e s to th e b u ri a l p l a c e u nti l
-

her l a st j o u rn e y Th e fu ner a l p roc essi o n i s fo rm ed

.

6
82 A CI RL S
’
WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

s ol e l y o f th e m e n a n d i s a lw a ys t a ken o n fo ot
, .

A ft e r th e c e r e m on y a n d b e fo r e l e a vi n g th e gro u nds
, ,

ev e ry v e sti g e o f cl othi ng wo r n a t th e b u ri a l i s
w a sh e d a n d th e m o u rn e rs b a th e i n a l a rg e t a nk
, ,

r e pl a c i ng th e i r fu n e r a l cloth e s O f wh i t e b y th e i r
o rdi n a r y g a rm e nts Ev e n th e p r i e sts b a th e a n d r e
.

m ov e t h e i r c l o t h e s b e fo r e O ffi c i a t i n g a t a noth e r
c e r e m o n y sho u l d i t t a k e p l a c e t h e n e xt h o u r A n
,
.

e n ch a nti n g d ri v e h o m e b u t t h e glo o m o f th i s t e r r i
,

bl e p l a ce i s n o t e a si l y d i s p e ll e d !
A t th e c o m m e n c e m e nt O f J a n u a r y th e t e m p e r a
tu r e o f B o mb a y mo u n ts q u it e hi g h e no u gh to u n fit
a tr a v e ll e r to e nj o y s i ght -s e ei n g b u t d o e s n o t s e e m
,

to u n fit th e r e si d e nts fro m e nj o yi n g a n i m m e ns e
a mo u nt O f g a ye t y .Tu e sd a y ev e ni n g w e d i n e d with
a n A m e ri c a n fri e n d a t th e Ro ya l Y a c ht C lu b and ,

a ft e r d i n n e r h a d a n o p p o rtu n it y O f a tt e nd i n g a b a ll .

Th e ya c ht c l u b i s c h a r mi n g l v s itu a t e d o n t h e b a y .

T h e gr e e n l a wns i n fro nt O f t h e b u i l d i n gs e xt e nd
to th e v e ry b o rd e rs O f th e o c e a n wh e r e th e fl e e t o f
,

b o a ts a r e a t a nch o r Th e b a l l b e g a n a t t e n a n d
.
,

o nl y e nd e d i n t h e m o rn i n g h o u rs Th e c o m p a n y .

w e r e p ri n c i p a ll y E u ro p e a ns i n u n i fo rm s with th e i r ,

wiv e s a n d d a u ght e rs i n Fr e n c h b a ll -d r e ss e s wh o
‘

d a nc e d with a l l th e viv a c ity p oss ibl e I t o nl y t a k e s .

a fe w ye a rs O f th i s tr yin g cl i m a t e h owev e r to , ,

ch a n ge th e ru d d i e st En gl i sh b e a u ty i nto a p a l e
co m pl ex i o n e d A n gl o I nd i a n There w a s sc a rc e l y a
- .
 84 A CI RL S
’
WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

on h er Shou ld er T he n h er pri d e g a ve w a y a n d sh e t urn e d

.
,

r oun d a n d the y g a ve e a c h o ther s u c h a hu g t ha t it wa s mo st

,

t ou ch i n g t o s ee th e m Su dd e n ly s o methi n g st a rtle d t he m
.
,

a n d w it h a b oun d the y w ere on t h e t o p o f a tree c h a tteri n

g
pro fu s ely T he v w ere the fi n est p a ir o f M a thera n a pes t ha t
.

w e sa w o n t he h ill A n yt h i n g mo re hu ma n c ou l d n o t h a ve
.

bee n i ma g i n e d We n o lo n g e r do u b t the t ru th o f Da r wi n s
.
’

t he o ry .
’

I h a ve h a d m a n y p l e a s a nt e ntert a i nm ents i n my
l i fe b u t n e v e r a p l e a s a nter o n e th a n o n th e a ft e r
,

n o o n I sp e nt with M r s H O f th e Pr e sb yt e ri a n M i s
. .
,

s i o n a t B o mb a y a m o n g h er o w n l ittl e H i nd u a n d
,

M a ho m e t a n sch o o l ch i ld ren wh o h a d i nvi t e d u s t o ,

a n a tive fe a st I n e v e r s a w c h i ld r e n S O h a p p y a n d
.

b ri ght a s th e s e littl e wo m e n ; th ey l a u gh e d a n d ch a t
t e r e d to g e th e r lik e s o m a n y m a gp i e s A l l t h e l ittle .

g i rls wo r e th e I n di a n s a ri - a bout n i n e ya rd s O f
,

b ri ght c otto n c l oth p l e a t e d a b o u t t h e w a i st wi th

, ,

o n e e n d th rown o ve r th e Sho u ld e r a n d h e a d Th i s .

w a s a gr e a t fet e d a y ; a n d th e l i ttl e wo m e n h a d b ee n
-

i mp a ti e ntl y lo oki n g fo rw a rd to i t a s th e o n e fix e d
to r e c e iv e th e c o nt e nts o f bo x es s e n t fro m A m eri c a
to t h e m issi o n c h ild r e n whi ch d i d n ot c o m e o n
,

C hri stm a s a n d S O wer e to b e d istri b u t e d o n th i s

,

da y , th e e nd O f t h e sch o o l ye a r A b o u t fi fty l ittl e .

’
wo m en w e r e l e a rn i n g wisdo m i n M rs H s m i ssi o n . .

sch o ol Th e gr a y sto ne b u i ld i n g w a s o p en ed o n
.

all s i des b y a rches to let i n th e sweet a i r fro m th e

,
K O O L IN B RA H M I NS .
86 WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A CI RL S IN .

s u ng i n m o n oto no u s ti m e a n d m e a s u r e When the .

h ym ns w e r e e n d e d e a c h l ittle o n e c a m e u p wi th
,

g r e a t gr a vi ty o f e xp ressi o n whe n her n a m e w a s c a ll e d ,

to r e c eiv e a gi ft r e tu rn i ng to h er b e n c h wi th b e a m in g
,

-
e yes h u ggi ng to h e r h e a rt t he st a ri n g bl u e e ye d t o w
, , ,

h a i re d d oll y a s gre a t a c o ntr a st a s p o ssi b le to the

,

l ittle d a rk Ski nn e d ch il d T he fe stiv a l ov e r we d rove

- .
,

to a l a rg e c o l u m n e d b u ng a low n e a r b y s u rro u nde d ,

by b e a uti fu l m a ng o -tr ee s wh i c h i s th e l a t e st p u r
,

ch a s e O f th e M iss i o n B o a r d A b o u t th i rty gi rls l ive .

h e r e i n n a tiv e fa shi o n q u ite b y th e ms e lv e s ; a n d h e re

th e fe a st w a s to t a k e p l a c e O n th e gr a y sto ne fl o o r .

O f th e p ri nc i p a l ro o m A r a b es q u e l i n e s w e re ch a lked
,

i n c ol o rs wh i c h s e rv e d to d e s i gn a te t h e p l a c e O f e a c h
,

gu e st ; a n d b e fo r e th es e s qu a r e s w e r e p l a c e d a fresh
b a n a n a l e a f a n d a b r a ss d ri nki ng c u p th e o nl y t a ble
-
,

servi c e th a t we c o u l d d isc ov e r .

B u t fi rst I m u st t e l l yo u th a t the r e w e re n o c h a i rs
o r b e nch e s a n d n o ch o i c e w a s l e ft u s b u t to s qu a t o n
,

o u r h e els i n th e n a tive fa shi on I t w a s h a rd to b e d i g .

n ifie d th i s o c c a si o n a n d i n th i s p o siti o n a n d we
on ,

ro ll e d over o n o u r b a c ks sever a l ti m e s i n o u r e ffo rts

to ke e p our bo di e s
p ri ght Th e l ittl e H i nd u s wer e
U .

c o nvu ls e d b u t p o l it e l y c o nc e a l ed th e i r a m u se m e nt ;
,

n o do u bt h ow e v e r the y w e r e l a u gh i n g a t u s i n th e i r
, ,

sl ee ves O n th e b a n a n a l e a f were s p r e a d l ittl e h e a ps

.

o f d i ffe r e nt v e get a bl es c o oked with Sp i c e s a n d ch u t

,

n e ys an d ch i lli es a nd p ep p ers . A b a n a na stew

 B o n/E A Y .
87

l o ok e d a t le a st tempti ng b e fo re we t a sted i t b u t i t ,

w a s c o ok e d with so m u ch red p e pp e r th a t we c o u ld

sc a rc e l y sw a llow i t Th e r e we re n o fo rks kn iv e s o r
.
, ,

s p o o ns ; a n d noth i ng wo u ld d o b ut w e m u st m a n a g e
to p a rt a k e O f th e fo o d wi th o u r fi ng e rs i n th e n a tiv e
m a nn e r O f c o u rse we fa il e d Th e l ittl e H i n d u s S i m
. .

p l y b e a m e d with d e li ght a n d O,ff e r e d t o Sh o w u s h o w

e a sil y th e y c o u l d d o i t b y j u s t p r e ss i ng th e fo o d i n
,

a l ittl e b a ll wi th two fi ng e rs a n d with th e o th er th re e

,

sw ee p u p th e s a u c e wh i ch c ov e rs the l e a f a n d gr a c e ,

fu ll y c o nv e y i t to the i r m o u ths witho u t Sp i lli n g a

,

S ingl e d ro p a n d sc a rc e l y s o i lin g th ei r fi n g e rs Th e y .

w e re d e l ight e d to hov e r a b o u t a n d w a i t o n u s b u t ,

wo u ld h a v e b rok e n c a ste h a d th e y e a t e n ev e n th e
s m a ll e st gr a i n O f ri c e .

Th e b a n a n a l e a f i s u s e d i nst e a d o f c ro cke r y a c ,

co rd i ng to t h e H i nd u i d e a O f cl e a nl i n e ss a s i t c a n ,

b e d e stro ye d e v e r y m o rni ng a n d n e v e r u s e d a s e c o nd
,

ti m e Th e c o ok i ng u tens i ls a r e a l l o f b r a ss s c o u re d
. ,

and C l e a n e d to a p o i nt n e ve r re a ch e d b y c ivili z e d
p e o p l e N O gl a ss o r ch i n a i s e v e r u s e d ; th e d ri nki ng
.

c u p s a n d p l a tt e rs wh i c h c ost a l m ost n othi ng a n d

, ,

e l i mi n a t e th e it e m o f b r e a k a ge i n h o u seh ol d e x p e n
d i t u r e s s e rv e fo r g e n e r a l fa m i l y u se
,
.

A fter th e fe a st w e a l l h a d s e a ts i n th e b i g s qu a re
,

c o u rt o f th e h o u s e a n d th e ch ild r e n p l a ye d fo r u s
,

th e i r n a tiv e g a m e s A n yth i ng m o r e gr a c e fu l c a nnot

.

b e i m a gi n e d a n d th e a m o u nt O f sp i ri t the y p u t i nto
,
88 WI N TE R I ND I A
’
A CI RL S IN .

th e se fa nt a sti c ro m p s o u triv a ls a n yth i n g I e v e r kn e w .

A fa vo ri t e a m u sem e nt i s t he ch i ldi sh pl a y O f cho o s

i ng a b ri de a r e a l i m it a ti o n O f th e c e r e m o n y a s i t
,

i s d o n e i n th e E a st A p a rty o f th e Old e r gi rls a d

.

v a nc e u p t h e ro o m wi th t h e littl e b ri d e th a t i s to b e
, ,

h i d d e n b e h i n d th e i r d r a p e ri es Th e s e r e p r e s e nt th e
.

b ri d e s r e l a tiv e s a n d th e y a r e t a ki ng t h e littl e b a b y
’

gi rl to t h e h o u se o f t h e b ri d e gro o m The b ri d e .

gro o m s fri e n ds a r e r e p r e s e nt e d b y t a ll e r gi rls d r a wn

’

A s th e b ri d e s littl e p a rty
’
u p i n l i ne to r e c e ive th e m .

a pp ro a c h th e y a l l si n g th e p r a ises o f th e i r ch i ld i n
,

t h e fl ow e r y sp e e ch O f th e O rie nt Th e rh ym i n g .

wo rd s fa ll so ftl y fro m sw e e t li p s a n d th e e ye s b e a m ,

with l a u ght e r a n d fu n Wh a t they c h a nt i s so m e .

“
thi n g l i k e th i s ! Thi s i s o u r d a u ght e r th e fa i r e st ,

a m o n g wo m e n th e p e a rl O f t h e E a st ; t h e lotu s -e e d
, y ,

”
th e p ri d e th e j e w e l o f o u r l i fe
, A t th e e n d o f thi s

s o n g t h e b ri d e gro om s fri e nd s a nsw e r i n th e i r tu rn

,
’

“
O u r b o y i s a s glo ri o u s a s t h e s u n a t e v e ni ng a s ,

”
b r a ve a s a r a j p u t a s wi s e a s a s e rp e nt
, Wh e n th e y .

p a u s e i t i s th e tu rn o f t h e b ri d e s r e l a tiv e s wh o d e
,
’

sc rib e i n sti ll m o r e gl owi n g l a n gu a g e t h e p e r fe c ti o n

a n d fa s c i n a ti o n s O f th e i r l ittl e o n e Th i s i s a nsw e r e d .

a g a i n b y th e oth er s i d e w h o ch a nt t h e p r a is e s o f th e
,

b ri d e gro o m ! Th e s o n O f a r a j a h th e p o ss e sso r O f ,

h e rds a n d fi ne h o u ses a n d l a nds th e j o y O f t he ,

”
h o u s e h o ld t h e p ri d e O f h i s l i n e
,
Thi s e xh a u sted .
,

’
th e two fa m il i e s c o m e d own to b u si n e ss Th e b ri d e s .
90 A GI R L ’
S WI /V TE R IN I ND I A .

clos e ts fo r th e w a rd rob es b u t v e ry r e c entl y wo o d e n

,

c h e sts h a ve b e e n give n th e m B e fo re th is th e y .
,

p o ss e ss e d no r e c ep t a cl e fo r c loth i ng O f a n y s o rt .

I nd i a n twi li ghts a r e sh o r t It i s growi ng d a rk a n d

.
,

we m u st l e a v e B yc u ll a a n d t h e m issi o n r e tu rn i n g ,

th ro u gh t h r e e m il es O f l i ghted stre e ts to o u r h ot e l .

N O o n e m u st fa i l to vi s it th e c u ri o u s a n i m a l h os p it a l
i n B o mb a y whi ch h a s grown o u t O f t h e r e li gi o u s
,

ven e r a ti o n O f a n i m a l l i fe I d o n ot th i nk o n e c o u l d
.

fo r m a n y i d e a b e fo r e vi si ti ng th e p l a c e j u st wh a t a n
a n i m a l ho sp i t a l wo u l d b e l ik e Th i s o n e a t l e a st i s
.
, ,

n o t li k e a n yth i n g e l s e i n th e wo rld S to p p i n g b e fo re.

a g a t e w a y w e l e a v e o u r ho rs e s to m u nch t h e fr e sh
,

gr a ss a n d c o rn l e a ves wh i c h th e H i n d u d o o rk e ep e r
-
,

O ffe rs ; a n d p a ssi n g thro u g h th e d o o r w a y w e fi n d ,

o u rs e lves i n th e w a rd s wh i ch c ov e r a c r e s O f gro u n d
, ,

t e n a nted b y s i ck a ni m a ls i nclu d i ng ev e ry sp e c i e s
,

fro m a c a t to a c a m e l Wh a t a c u ri o u s s i ght it i s !
.

th e c a ttl e with e v e r y fo rm O f d i s e a s e so m e l yi n g a n d ,

s o m e st a nd i ng a b o u t the Op e n w a rds wh i ch fo rm fo u r ,

S i d e s o f a n o p e n c o u rtw a y F a rthe r o n a r e th e l a m e
.
,

h a lt a n d b li n d O f th e p o u lt r y-ya rd ; ch i ck e ns w i th
, ,

o n e wi n g d i s a b l e d v a nq u ish e d i n a b a rn ya rd qu a rr e l ;
,

p a ri a h p u p p i e s th a t h a d b e e n p i ck e d u p i n th e
,

str e et i n a ll st a g e s O f st a rv a ti o n o r d e gr a d a ti o n ; a l l
m a n n e r O f qu a d ru p e ds so m e n ow o n th r e e l e gs a n d
, ,

o th e rs u n a bl e to st a nd a t a l l ; flo cks O f m o nk e ys w h o ,

a ffect a s u d d en terro r at yo u r a p p ro ach ; a n d c a ges

A M I SS I O N -S CH OO L GI RL .
9 2 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

ha d b ec o m e a sh e ep a fter hi s s o u l h a d p a sse d
to th e l a n d o f the d e a d A t o nc e the r a j a h sent
.
,

fo rth a n e d i ct to th e E u rop e a ns a n d M a ho m e t a ns ,

whic h fo rb a d e th e k illi ng O f the l a mb s o f th e flo ck

fo r e v e r .

O n e m u st b e O ff e a rl y i n th e m o rni n g i f o n e
wi sh e s to s e e th e v e ry p r e tti e st S i ght i n B o mb a y .

A bo u t a m i le fro m t h e town i s t h e fi n e n e w b u i ldi n g ,

wi th tow e rs a t the fo u r c o rn e rs s u rro u n d e d b y ,

lovel y g a rd e ns — t h e Fl ow e r M a rk e t I nsi d e a r e .
, ,

l o ng vi st a s o f h i gh p i l e d u p fru it a n d v e g e t a bl e s
-
,

gr e a t trop i c a l fru its m a n go es yellow a n d j u i c y p i nk

, , ,

a n d wh it e m a ngoste e ns p o m e gr a n a t e s a n d gu a v a s
, , .

M a m moth fru its wi th u nknown n a m es fr a m e th e

, ,

l ittl e H i nd u v e n d e rs squ a tti n g a m o n g th e i r w a res i n

rows h i gh a b ov e yo u r h e a d a n d fi lli n g b a n a n a le a ves
,

with t he fru i t a n d v e g e t a bl es wh i ch th e y to ss down

,

fro m th e i r h i gh p e rch i nto th e o p e n a r ms O f a l ittl e

’
n a tiv e h o u se w i fe wh o i s s e l e cti n g h e r d a y s su p p l y
, .

A l l t h e a i r O f t h e g a rd e ns o u ts i d e s e e ms to b e fu ll o f
twitteri n g a n d I fo u nd t h e t a ll a c a c i tr e e s fill e d wi th
, a -

b i rd c a g e s ten a nt e d b y l ov e -b i rd s a n d p a ro qu ets
-
, ,

wh i l e n e a r b y w e re h u n d r e d s o f li ttl e m o nk e ys ,

c a g e d o r swi n gi ng fro m th e l i mb s o f trees Two

, .

c o ck a to o s i n wh i t e a n d gol d fe a th ers sli p down fro m

, ,

th e i r p e rch a n d p ro cee d to fi ght Th e c o ntents o f th e .

c a g e s sc r e a m wi ldl y ; a l l th e i r fri e nds th e m o nke ys , ,

c h a tter o r h owl i n s ymp a th y a n d the i nsect l i fe o f

,
 B OA/B A Y .
93

th e g a rd en s b u zz es a n d h u m s a m i no r a cc o mpani m e nt .

Th e tr e e b i rds ch i rp a n d twitt e r i n e v e r y to ngu e

-

known to b i rd li fe ; a n d a b ov e th e u p ro a r ri s e th e
vo i ces o f the e x c it e d n a tives a dd i n g to i nst e a d o f
, ,

qu ell i n g thi s b a b e l O f l a ngu a g e s I t w a s th e H i nd u

, .

Ne w Y e a r s d a y th e gr e a t fe a st o f t h e ye a r Ne a rl y
’

, .

e v e ry o n e w e m e t w a s i n h o li d a y d ress Th e s a ri s .

O f th e wo m e n w e r e eve n m o r e b ri ghtl y d e co r a ted

th a n u su a l with gol d ti ns e l a n d e mb ro i der y O f ye llow ,

green o r I nd i a n r e d w e a ri n g a b o u t th ei r n e cks lo n g
,
-
,

wre a ths O f th e go l d e n C h rys a nth e m u m -l ike fl ow e rs ,

wh i ch th e wo m e n s e l l to th e p a ss e rs b y to h o no r
-

th e N e w Y e a r .

The Esp l a n a d e H ot e l a t wh i ch w e a r e stop p i ng i s

, ,

l a rge a n d ro o m y b u t p o si tiv e l y lik e b a r r a cks O ne

, .

m u st i nd e e d l e a r n to d o witho ut lu x u ri o u s su rro u n d
i ngs d u ri n g a tri p to I n d i a Th e re a r e n o c a rp e ts
.

a n ywh e re to b e s ee n a n d o u r b e d ro o m s a r e fu r
,

n i s h e d w ith s e v e re S i m p l i c it y Th e b e d i s wi th o u t
.

Sp ri ngs with a c o u pl e o f qu ilt e d a rr a ng e m e nts th rown

,

ov e r th e b a r e sl a ts ; a n d I h a ve n ot s e e n a n yth i n g
th a t r e s e mbl e d a t a bl e i n my ro o m u nl e ss i t i s a ,

wo o d e n b e n c h s l a tt e d l ik e a ch ick e n co op A b a th
- .

ro o m th e n e c e ss ity o f l i fe i n I n d i a i s a tt a ch ed to
, ,

e a ch ro o m wh i c h i s re a ll y th e o nl y c o m fo rt
,
Yo u .

will l o ok i n v a i n fo r b e lls e l e ctri c o r th e O pp osi t e

,
.

E a ch ro o m o p e n s o n a lo n g b a lc o n y a n d a c a l l d ow n
,

'

s ever a l sto ri es will s oo n b ri ng a n a tive bea s zze o r ‘

,
94 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I IVD I A .

w a ter -c a rri e r fro m th e co u rtya rd c a rr yi n g u n der h i s

, ,

a r m a b u ffa lo ski n sewn to g e ther to c o nt a i n w a t e r

, ,

th e n e ck o f th e b e a st s e rvi n g a s a s p o u t ; a n d with
thi s p ri m itiv e a rr a ngem e nt h e fills yo u r b a th fo r th e
,

m o rn i n g d i p A d r a u ght O f a i r i s a s i nd isp e ns a b l e
.

to th e p e o p l e i n th e E a st a s it i s d re a d e d b y u s a t
h o m e I n th e p u bli c b u i ld i ngs a s i n p riv a te h o u s e s
. ,

i n th e sl e e p i n g ro o m s a s w e ll a s i n th e s a l o ns ov e r
-
,

th e p u l p i t O f th e p r e a ch er a s well a s o v e r th e d e sk
O f th e cl e rk i n fa ct e v e r ywh e r e l o n g p i e c e s O f c a n
, ,

v a s a r e su s p e n d e d a tt a ch e d to t h e c e i li n g b y co rds
, ,

wh i c h a r e p u ll e d to a n d fr o b y a n a tiv e givi n g a ,

d e li c i o u s l ittl e b r e e z e ov e r o u r h e a d s T hes e a r e .

th e p u nk a hs a n d th e y a r e g e n e r a ll y m a ni p u l a t e d b y
,

a s m a ll s pe c i m en O f A s i a ti c h u m a ni t
y who i s c a l l e d
,
a

p u nk a h w a ll a h Y o u O ft e n s e e o n e O f th e s e s m a l l
-
.

b o ys fa st a s l e e p i n th e m i d d a y s u n with th e p u n
-
,

k a h c o r d fa s t e n e d to h i s gre a t to e — sl e e p i n g a w a y ,

b li ss fu ll y ke e p i n g u p th e a cti o n O f t h e p u nk a h fro m
,

fo rc e O f h a b i t . Th e str a n g e st s yst e m O f l i ghts i s i n

u s e U nl e s s i n t h e ch a r a ct e r O f a n o u tr a g e d E u ro
.

p e a n yo u sto r m th e O ffi c e c it a d e l t h e onl y l u m i n a ,
!

ti o n yo u wi ll eve r s e e a t n i ght wh e n yo u a rrive a t

yo u r n u mb e r i n th e h ot e l i s a gl a ss tu mbl e r b e si d e
,

th e d o o r fi lled wi th c o co a n u t o i l i n wh i ch i s flo a ti n g
, ,

a s m a l l l i ghted t a p e r W e h a ve a t t a b le a str a ng e
.

v a ri e ty o f fo o d a n d very b a dl y c o oked Th e m i lk
,
.

i s fro m th e b u ffa lo c ow b lu e wh ite an d never c re a m y

,
.
9 6 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

p i ctu res qu e n ess a l w a v s we a r th i s e n c ha nti ng s a ri ?

,

\/V hy lo s e th e gr a c e a n d ch a r m O f E a st e rn w a r p
and wo o f to a d o p t a co stu m e d estr u ctiv e O f a l l
,

p o e try j u st b ec a us e m a ch i n e s fro m M a n ch ester

,

h v e i nv d e d
a a fa i r y l a nd ? U n fo rtu n a t e l y w e h a v e
-
,

to l e a rn th a t n a ti o n s a r e n o t e a s il y stopp e d wh e n ,

o nce st a rt e d o n th e ro a d to p ub li c go o d b y s e l f
i sh n oti o n s O f p i ctu r e squ e fitness wh i c h w e w h o ,

SO e a g e rl y e mb r a c e e v e ry n e w a n d c ivi li z ed c o m
fo rt i n d r e ss o r m a ch i n e ry ma y strive to i m p os e ,

o n th e m A s B rown i ng s a ys
.
,

B ut ma nki n d p ieces
there s t h e fa ult ;
a re n ot
’

Y o u c a n n o t p ush the m a n d t h e fi rst mo v e ma d e

, ,

L e a n b a ck a n d stu dy wh a t the n ext sh a ll b e ,

I n c o n fi d e nce th a t whe n t is fi xe d u p o n
’

Y o u fi n d just where yo u le ft the m bl a cks a n d whites ; ,

”
M e n g o o n mo v i ng whe n yo ur h a nd s a w a y
’
.

N oth i n g ca n b e mo r e i rr a ti o n a l and u n c ivi li z e d

th a n th e w a y m oth e rs c a rr y thei r ch i ld r e n i n th is
c o u ntry — th e l ittl e o n e s a stri d e thei r m oth e rs h i ps
,
’

h e l d s ec u r e ly i n th i s p o si ti o n b y a fi rm a r m a b o u t
t h e m I t i s v e r y sh o c ki n g to s e e a fr a g i le l ittl e
.

m o th e r t e n o r e l ev e n ye a rs Old h e r sl i ght fo r m b ent

, ,

o u t O f sh a p e u n d e r th e w e i ght o f a b o u n c i n g b a b y

h a l f a s l a rg e a s h ers e l f T h e n a tive gi rls a r e b e

.

troth e d wh e n a b o u t thr e e ye a rs O l d a n d a r e a l mo st ,

u nivers a ll y m a rri ed wh e n fro m e i ght to te n ye a rs

Of age . B ut th i s i s a c o m m o n street Si ght th a t yo u
 B OIV B A Y.
97

a re likel y to se e wh ereve r yo u tu rn I n th e I nd i a n
, .

wo m e n esp e c i a ll y a mo ng th e low e r c a stes n o r O

, ,

b u s t n e s s ex i sts n o h e a rty vi go r
,
.Th e y a r e u nd e r
s iz ed u n d e v e lop ed a n d ov e rwo rk e d s e nt e nc e d b y
, , ,

th e i r r e li gi o n to h a ve thr e e m a sters — thei r fa ther

, ,

eld er b rothe r and h u sb a n d

, .
98 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
S IN .

C H A PTE R V I I .

A L L A H A BAD .

J a n u a ry 22 .

EA V I N G
’
B o mb a y a t t e n o clo ck P M o n th e . .
,

C a lc u tt a m a i l tr a i n w e p a ss e d d i rectl y o v e r
-
,

t h e h i gh Gh a u ts a n d fo r two d a ys a n d o n e n i ght
,

t raversed the t b l e l a n d O f I n d i a
a - I ndi a n r a ilw a y .

c arri a ges h a ve a w i d e s e a t o n e a ch s i d e O f th e c o m

p a r t me n t . At n i ght a n extr a b erth i s let d own fro m

,

a b ove , on wh i ch yo u pl a ce yo u r o w n p i ll ows a n d
Ta mi } d r a w th e c u rt a i n ove r ni ght l m p a n d t he -a
,

n o o n e d i stu rb s yo u r Slu mb ers b y sc re a m i n g th e

d i fferent st a ti on s o r dem a nd i n g ti ck e ts A l l th i s .

ti m e t h e tr a i n go es a lo ng le isu rel y twe nty m i les

,

a n h o u r stop s th i rt y m i n u tes fo r c h ot a -h a z ri
, stop s ,

ag a i n fo r d i nner a n d the n fo r a ft e rno o n t e a t a k e n a t

, ,

dai nty t a b les sp re a d u nd e r vi ne covered a rb o rs a n d

-

fl owery tr e e s Th e I n d i a n st a tio ns a r e t h e p retti est

.

i n th e wo r l d th e st a ti o n -m a st e r b ei ng sti m u l a ted b y
,

a p ri z e O ffe red ye a rl y b y the r a ilw a y c o m p a n y fo r

th e m o st b e a u ti fu l gro u nd s a n d s u rro u n d i n gs ; t he
n a tiv e s fil l e very s p a c e with fl owers a n d sh ru bb e ry ,

1 R es a z ,
'

an Ind i a bl k e t w
n an , a d de d , a n d g e e ra lly ma d e
n of bright
co tt o n s .
 A LL A HABA D .
99

and pl a nt v i nes to c r ee p o ve r the b u i ld i ngs th e m

s e lves U p a n d d own th e st a t i o n p a c e s th e b /zzs t ze
' '

a rri e r !
( w a te r c -
wh o su pp l i es
, w a ter i n b r a ss lot a s to
th i rsty tr a v e ll e rs r e pl e n ish i n g h i s p o u ch th e t a n n e d
, ,

h id e o f a b u llo ck a t t h e st a ti o n well Th e y tell u s

, .

th i s fu ncti o n a r y i s a lw a ys a B r a h m i n i n o rd e r th a t ,

the H i n d u s ma y d ri nk th e w a t e r s a fe l y wi tho u t
b re a ki ng c a ste ; a nd sho u l d a low c a st e p e rso n d esi r e
-

to qu enc h h i s th i rst h e m u st b e c o nt e nt to h a ve th e
,

w a te r p o u r e d i nto h is h oll ow e d h a n d .

A s a ru l e th e n a tiv e s m a n a g e th e i ro n ro a ds a r e
, ,

the engi n e e rs th e tr a i n m e n st a ti o n b a b u s a n d fill no

, , ,

e nd o f p ositi o ns D oz e ns a n d h a l f d oz ens ru sh to
.
-

w a rds a n a dv a nc i n g tr a i n sc ru ti ni z e th e o c cu p a nts o f
,

th e c a rri a g e s o ffer sti ck y sw e etene d b a lls O f u nk nown

,

i ngred i e nts o r ste a m i n g ch a i fro m th i ck wh it e c u p s

, ,

with c o a rs e s u g a r a n d i nv a ri a b l y o r a n ges a n d b a n a
,

nas ,
with wh i ch we s u p p l y o u r lu nch b a sket m a d e
-
,

o f r a tt a n fro m p ru d enti a l m otiv e s O u r b ox e s now .

n u mb er thi rt e e n p i e c e s a n d we h a v e i n a d d iti o n a
,

n a tiv e s erv a nt wh o i s c a ll e d i n thi s p a rt O f I nd i a

,

“ ” ”
a b e a rer S h a nke r wh i ch yo u m u st p ro no u nc e
,

S hu n k e r i s a S u r a ti ma n a s w e h a v e fo u n d o u t to
, ,

o u r s o rro w I n C a lc utt a th e B e n g a l i h o u s e stew a rd

.
-
,

“ ”
p a i d n o h e e d to S h a n k e r s r e qu est fo r s o u p p e a s ’

, ,

o r o r a n ges i n co mp l i a nc e with o u r n e e d s a t t a ble ;

,

a n d th e d i n n e r w a s u su a ll y p rol o ng e d a t le a st a h a l f

ho u r all owi n g to h i s b ei n g o f a lowe r caste a n d

,
1 00 A GI R L ’
S WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

a d i ffere nt wo rsh i p I t wo ul d see m th e i de a l w a y to

.

have a new s e rv a nt fo r e a ch p l a c e a n d o f the reli gi o n ,

p rev a il in g i n th e c o u ntry I t ma y s ee m qu ee r to u s
.

th a t a n y p eop l e Sho u ld tro u bl e the mselves o v e r m i x

i ng u p c r ee d s a n d p ot a to e s o r p i e ty a n d p i ne a pp l e s
, ,

b u t o n e c a n no t c o n c e i v e O f t he w a y th e s e E a st e rn
r a c es l iv e o u t thei r reli gi o u s p ri nc i pl e s i n every a c t
o f th e d a y E a ste rn s e rv a nts requ i re a n y a mo u nt o f
.

lo oki n g a ft e r ; th e y re qu i re to b e to ld th e s a m e th i n g
over a n d ov e r e v e ry d a y a n d wh a t i s wo rs e b esi des
, ,

telli n g yo u m u st st a n d over th e m a n d s e e th a t the y

,

d o i t Y o u m u st a lso i n fo r m th e m b y fr a gments j u st
.

wh a t yo u w a nt o f th e m a s th e y c a n t t a ke i n mu c h a t
,
’

o n e ti m e ; b u t a fter a ll i t i s s u ch a c o m fo rt to h ave
, ,

so m e o n e a l w a ys wi lli ng to d o everythi ng a s a m a tter

o f co u rs e h avi n g n o o the r i d ea th a n th a t o f serv
,

i ng yo u .

S h a nker i s a H i n d u a n d a wo rsh i p p e r o f V i sh nu
, ,

to t h e a b so l ute excl u si o n o f th e oth er two m e m

b ers O f th e H i nd u tri n ity O n e a fte rn o o n i n B e
.

n a res h e b egge d O ff fro m d u ty wi th o u t a ssi gn i ng a ,

r e a so n a s u su a l L a te r i n th e d a y we e nco u ntere d
.
,

h i m c o m i ng u p fro m h i s d i p i n th e G a ng e s wh i ch I ,

s u p p o s e w a sh ed a w a y h i s s m a ll O ffenc es co m m i tted
a g a i n st o u rselves i n th e m a tt e r o f m aki n g O ff with
,

l o o se ch a ng e a n d p e tty p i c e I h a ve n otic ed th a t th e .

b o y i s b eco m i n g gr a d u a ll y i no c u l a ted w i th c ivi liz ed

i de a s a fter s i x weeks o f c o nt a ct with h i s A m eri c a n
1 02 A
’
C I RL S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

S ha n ke r
’
c co mpl ish me nts a r e i n n u m e r a bl e a n d
s a ,

h i s o c c u p a ti o n s v a ri e d H e i s o u r g e ner a l ma n a g e r
.
,

o u r tr e a su rer ; sp e a ks th e l a ngu a g e s a s i nte r p ret e r ;

i s c o u ri e r a n d gu i d e i n o n e ; m a kes o u r b e ds a n d ,

Sl ee p s with o n e e ye o p e n a t n i ght o n a ru g o u tsid e

o u r door ; p u ts o n a whi t e st a rch e d l i n e n g a rm e n t
a b ov e h i s b a r e fee t a n d w a its o n, u s a t t a b l e ; sits
o n t h e b o x wh e n w e d rive ; Op e ns c a rri a g e d o o rs ;

b ri ngs h o t w a t e r ; lo a ds u p o u r tr a p s c a m e l -l ike i n , ,

tr a velli n g — d u ti es fo r wh i ch h e fe e ls mu n i fi c e n t l y
r e w a rd e d b y tw e nty ru p e es a m o nth a n d a n a llow ,

a nc e O f fo u r a nna s a d a y fo r h i s fo o d wh i c h i s ,

d o ] o r c u rr y a n d ri c e with t e a
,
A t t h e st a ti o ns h e
.

s ec u r e s o u r fi r s t -cl a ss c a r ri a ge sto w s a w a y o u r,

b ox es a n d ti p s th e gu a rd th a t w e ma y n ot b e d i s
,

t u r b e d i n o u r j o u rn e y Th i s d o n e h e ru sh e s o ff
.
,

with h i s w o rldl y p o ss e ssi o ns i n h i s c a r p et -b a g o n ,

wh i c h i s ti e d a p ewter t e a p ot witho u t a sp o u t
- .

With th i s h e ent e rs h i s —
th i rd cl a ss
c a rri a ge wh i c h ,

i s l ik e th e o p e n street c a rs i n N e w Yo rk a n d
-
,

wh ere t h e n a tiv e s a r e c rowd ed to g e the r s o clos e l y

th a t th e y m u st s i t u p ri ght a n d h a ve n o ch a nc e o f
r e sti ng o r sle e p i n g d u ri n g th e ni ght .

W e a r e stop p i n g a t L a u ri e s H ot e l i n th e m i dst
’

of a l a rge c o mp o u nd o f m a gni fic e nt tr e e s o n c e ,

green b u t a t th i s se a so n c o l o r e d b rown wi th d e a d
,

le a v e s d r y a n d d u sty The h o u se h a s o nl y o n e
, .

fl Oo r fo rm i n g a c res c ent O f c o l u m n s ; an d o u r ro o m s
,
1 04 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I I VD I A .

was re a d i n g i n H i n d u st a ni b u t s o i mp ressivel y th a t
,

I c o u l d a l most u n d e rst a nd h i s m e a ni n g fro m t he ex

p ressio n h e g a v e to h i s m u s i c a l l a ngu a ge A n Ol d .

n a tiv e h a nd e d m e a H i nd u st n i h ym n b o ok wh i ch
a -
,

I c o u l d not r e a d ; s o w e o nl y r e m a i n e d a fe w m o
”
m ents a n d wer e r e -d i r e cted to M i ss S a h ib a s s he
, ,

i s k nown i n A ll a h a b a d .

—
I n a p retty c omp o u n d ro s e g a rl a n ded a n d vi n e
,

twi st e d st a n ds the th a t c h e d ro o f b u ng a low where

,
-
,

we fi n d t h e l ittle A m e ri c a n l a d y H ere s h e h a s .

l ived si xt e e n ye a rs h er o nl y co mp a n i o n a n En g
,

l i sh a ssi st a nt n u rs e a n d d o cto r a l l i n o n e
, We .

th i nk sh e h a s a p r e tty p l a i n ti m e o f it p o o r l i ttl e ,

wo m a n ; h e r c o m p a n i o n o nly c a r e s to d i sc u ss two
su bj e cts Th es e b e gi n th e d a y a n d en d th e ho u rs
.

o f a fter -d i nn e r t a lk a c co m p a n y th e d riv e s a n d s m a ll
,

ex c u rs i o ns o f th e two l ittl e l a d i e s ; a n d p e rh a p s , ,

th e i r restl e ss d r e a m s co n j u r e u p two g a u nt a n d h i d e
o u s sp ectr e i n c a rn a ti o ns O f th e i r d a y tho u ght Th e se .

two s u bj e cts t h e A lph a a n d O m e g a o f thei r c o nv e r

,

s a ti o n th e gri m s u p p l a nt e rs O f wo m a n s s m a l l t a lk
,
’

“ “
a n d gossi p th e olo gy a n d th e d i sp e ns a ry
’
a re , .

A de a r Ol d a ya h s o ft -fo oted a n d g e ntl e t a k e s go o d

, ,

c a re o f h er l ittl e m i str e ss ; a n d b esi d es there a r e , ,

m o re serv a nts to ma n a ge th e h o u se a n d to b e
m a n a ged Th e re i s th e sweep er wh o c a n o nl y a t
.
,

ten d t o h i s d e p a rtment a n d nev e r e nters th e c u i si ne ;

,

fo r a n I n d i a n serv a nt o nl y p er fo rm s th e d u t i e S o f ’
 A LL AH A BAD .
1 05

h i s h e r e d it a ry l i ne b u si n e ss o f
a n d so o n to s e e s }
y ,

M IT/ITS ? a n d d /zo b zes 3

A l l th e s e s e rv a nts c o m e to
’

th i s c o nsi d e r a te m istress wi th gr e a t wi lli ngn e ss a n d ,

a re as d e voted a s n a tive gr a ti tu d e p e rm i ts .

We enj o ye d A ll a h a b a d a fte r th i s with o u r a c c o m

p l i s h e d gu i d e to who ,m a l l th e Urd u a n d H i n d u st a n i
Sp ok e n i s a s her o w n l a ngu a ge a n d w e n e ve r w e a ri e d ,

h e r c o m p l a is a n c e i n a ski n g a m i lli o n qu estio ns a b o u t

I nd i a a n d h e r fri e nd s t he I n d i a n s I n th e n a tive c ity
,
.
,

d e e p i n i ts n a rrow l a ne s a n d c u rvi n g str ee ts th e re i s ,

o n e b u i ld i n g wh i c h i s o n qu it e d i ffe r e nt li n e s fro m
,

i ts n e i ghb o rs H e r e eve r y m o rn i ng a t a n e a rl y
.
,

ho u r c o m es M iss S s d o g c a rt wi th the s yc e h ol d
, .
’
-
,

i n g th e wh it e c otto n u mb r e ll a ov e r h i s l ittl e m i s
tr e ss s d e t e r m i n e d a n d c o u r a g e o u s h e a d a n d go l d
’

ri m med e ye gl a ss e s I t i s th e n e w d i sp e ns a r y thi s
- .
,

p l a i n su b st a nti a l b u i ld in g — t h e res u lt O f M iss S s

’

, .

det e rm i n e d e n e rg y a n d i s he r p ri d e a n d j o y We
, .

a lso c a m e th e r e o n e m o rn i n g i n th a t l ittl e c a rt a n d ,

fo u nd th e two a ssi st a nts a l r e a d y b u s y a n d h a rd a t

wo rk i n th e b a r e ch ee rl e ss i nt e ri o r
,
-
n o c a r p e ts n o , ,

p i ctu r e s o r h a ngi ngs o r ch a i rs wh e r e n o o cc u p a nts ,

co u ld b e s ee n exc e p t th e th r ee l ittl e d o cto rs O u ts i d e .

th e o ffic e d o o r o n th e e n clo s e d p i a zz a a n d s qu a tti n g

, ,

o n th e h a rd c e m e nt fl o o r o f th e ro o m w e r e th e p a ,

t i e n t s fo rm i ng a c i rcl e o f p a i n fu l a n d exp e ct a nt fa c es
,
.

1 Syee, an In d i an co a c h ma n .
2 wa te r c a rri e r
- .

3 D /z o é ze,
'

l a u d ry-ma n
n .
 I 06 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

Th e y w e re i ll th a t w a s e vi d e nt b u t p a ti e nt l ik e a ll
, , ,

th e E a st ; a n d e a ch wo u ld w a i t h e r tu rn to b e s u m
’
m o u ed to M i ss S S si d e r e gist e r e d i n a b o ok n u m
.
, ,

b e r e d , a n d qu e sti o n e d a s to th e tro u b l e i f tre a ted ,

b e fo r e e tc ,
and .a ll wi tho u t co m p l a i n i n g j u st ,

S i m p l y st a ti n g th e i r s i ckn e ss a n d a nsw e ri n g qu e s ,

ti o ns I t w a s S O u n utt e r a bl y s a d A fe w p e rso ns
. .

h a d co m p a ni o ns to h e lp th e m w a lk th e d i st a nc e to
th e i n fi r m y a n d h i gh c ste wo m e n w e r e c a rri e d
ar - a

h e r e i n p en Li n ks b y c o o li es cl o s e l y c o nc e a l e d fro m
/
,

a ll vi e w M e d i c i n e s a r e giv e n o p er a ti o ns p e r fo rm e d
.
, ,

a n d wo m e n c u r e d w h o o th e rwi se wo u ld n e v e r h a v e
,

b ee n w e ll a g a i n Th e i r o n l y h o p e th e i r co m fo rt
.
, ,

a n d th e i r ver y e x i st e nc e th e y o w e t o M i ss S NO .

ma n wo u l d b e p e rm i tt e d to s e e o r to u ch th e m .

Th e p osi ti o n o f wo m e n h er e i s s o i n fe r i o r to th a t
o f men th a t a p h ysi c i a n i s r a r e l y c a ll e d sh o u l d
,

th e y b e fl L
I n a ri ch H i nd u fa m il y i t so m eti m es h a p p e n s ,

th a t a s a l a st reso u rc e a d o cto r i s s u m m o n e d H i s .

p a ti ent i s th en cl o s e l y c o n c e a l e d fro m vi ew b y
p n m a ks
’
(h e a v y cu rt a i ns ! wh i c h a r e p a rt e d o nl y,

wi d e e n o u gh to th ru st thro u gh th e h a nd o r Show
t h e to n gu e Fro m th e s e u ns a tis fa cto ry e vi denc es
.

alo n e th e do cto r m a k e s u p h i s m i nd a s to th e
,

tr e a tm e n t ; a n d i t so m e ti m e s h a p p e ns th a t owi n g ,

to t h e d i stru st O f m edi c a l a ssi st a nc e i n th e H i nd u

rel i gi o n a test o f th e d o cto r s knowled ge i s ma d e
,
’
1 08 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

l i fe fo r a n y wo m a n to g a i n a d i p lo m a wh eth er o r ,

n o s h e h a s a n y n a tu r a l gi fts qu a l ific a ti o ns o r i n
, , ,

fa ct i nt e llig e nc e eno u gh to a c qu i re th e a r t O f h e a l
,

i ng The m e d i c a l m iss i o n a ri e s sp e a k v e r y gu a rd e dl y
.

a n d with gr e a t reserv e wh e n t a lki ng o f th e s e i n sti

t u t io n s ; b u t o n e c a n e a si l y d e t e ct a so npgo n o f
“
d i s a p p rov a l wh e n th e y s a y
, I t i s a step c e rt a i nl y
, ,

”
b u t n o t a gr e a t o n e i n t h e ri ght d i r e c ti o n
, .

A t h a l f p a st t e n t h e l a st m e d i c i n e h a d b ee n gi v e n ,

a n d w e a l l l e ft fo r a w a lk I t w a s i n s u c h a n a rrow
.

str ee t th a t n o ho rs e h a r n e ss e d to a n yth i ng wh a t e ve r
c o u l d p o ss ibl y c o m e th ro u gh i t W e stop p e d b e fo re
.

a o e sto r y
n -
, wh i te p l a ster h o u s e p u sh i ng o p e n a ,

l o w wo o d e n d o o r with o u t fu rth e r c e r e m o n y The .

d o cto r h a d b e e n ve r y o ft e n to thi s h o u s e p r o fe s
s i o n a l ly ; thi s ti m e Sh e w a s b ri ngi n g u s to th e r e si

d e n c e o f a B r a h m i n p u n dit to s e e t h e wo m e n o f a
,

H i n d u z e n a n a wh o n e v e r b e fo re h a d l o oke d a t a
,

wh ite l a d y ex c e p t M i ss S W e l i ft a th i ck -w a d de d
.

c u rt a i n th a t sep a r a tes th e p ub l i c fro m th e p ri v a te

p a rts o f th e ho u s e a n d e nt e r a s m a ll c o u rtya rd
,

—
p l ant e d with fru it tre e s a n d sh ru bb e ry a ro u n d ,

’
wh i c h a r e th e wo m e n s a p a rtm ents Z en a n a m eans .

”
Si m pl y a wo m a n . M a n y o f the I n d i a ns sp e a k
o f th ei r wiv e s a s th ei r z en a n a s T he H i nd u i dea
.

o f a fa m i l y i s m a d e to e mb r a c e n o t o nl y th e h e a d

o th e h o u se b u t th e s o ns th e gr a ndso n s an d t he
f , , ,

gre a t grandso ns a s wel l a s th e b ro the r s a n d thei r

-
,
 A LL A H A B A D . 19 9

d esc e nd a nts . The H i nd u b o y b ri degro o m a lw a ys

t a kes h i s n e w wi fe to hi s fa th e r s ho u s e wh ere a
’

ro o m i s g ive n h i m ; s o th e d i ffe rent m e mb e rs o f

th es e c l a nnis h fa mi li es l ive to geth e r The m o n e y .

bro u ght i n b y the fa m i l y i s p l a c e d i n o n e co m m o n

fu n d p res i d e d ov e r b y th e lo rd o f th e m a no r
,
Th e .

z e n a n a a p a rtm e nts a r e qu ite d i sti nct fro m tho se

o c cu p i e d b y th e m e n ; a n d d u ri n g the d a y h u sb a nd
and wi fe nev e r meet fo r c o nvers a ti o n a n d o nl y s e e ,

e a ch o th e r wh i le th e y a r e b e i n g s e rved a t t a b l e b y
the wo m e n wh o n e ve r thi nk o f to u ch i n g fo o d u nti l
,

th e m e n h a ve e nj o ye d th e i r m e a l s a n d go ne o u t o f
th e h o u se t o b u si ness o r so m e p l a c e o f a m u sem ent .

I t i s a stri ct r u l e o f the H i n d u r e ligi o n th a t a l l fo o d

m u st b e c o ok e d a n d p rep a re d b y th e wives w h o d o ,

ev e r ythi ng a b o u t t h e h o u s e u n a ssi st e d e xc e pt i n th e
,

m o st m en i a l l a b o r The i n ner ro o m s o c c u p i ed b y
.

th e z e n a n a l a d i e s h a ve ve ry sm a l l wi ndows to o ,

h i gh to l o ok i nto th e street ! th e V ed a s co m m a n d
th a t a wo m a n m u st n e ve r st a n d a t a d o o r o r l o o k
o u t o f a wi ndow . Fro m th i s p ri so n l i fe s h e e nters
,

th e wo r l d r a r e l y ; a n d wh e n sh e go es i t i s i n a ,

p a l a n qu i n c a rri e d o n th e sho u l d e rs o f fo u r me n
, .

Wh e n p a yi n g a vi sit to h er fa th e r s ho u s e wh i ch
’

s he i s o c c a si o n a ll y p erm itt e d to d o th e p a l a n qu i n
,

i s c a rri e d i nto th e c o u rtya rd ; wh en th e wo m a n

e nters th e d o o rs Sl id e b a ck i nto th e i r pl a c es a n d
, ,

ove r a ll i s sp read a p u rd a h so c a re fu ll y vei le d

,
1 10 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

a nd gu ard ed s he can n ei ther see n o r b e s ee n by

any o ne .

T he l a d i es o f th e B r a h m i n ho u seho l d were taken

e nti rel y u n a w a r e s b y o u r visi t We fo u nd th em s i t .

ti n g o n a ch a r p o y i n a p l a i n u ndec o r a ted ro o m
, , ,

i n s i mp l e m u sli n s a ri s wi tho u t th e i r fe a st d a y o rn a
,
-

m ents a n d j e w e ls — o nl y t h e sp l e nd i d ge m s wh i c h
,

h u n g fro m th e n o se ri ngs p rov e d the y p o ssessed

-

a n ythi n g i n th e li ne o f l u x u r y Th e a p a rtme nt w a s .

so l a cki n g i n c o m fo rt o r a n y suggesti o n o f e a se , ,

th a t yo u w e r e s i m pl y st a rtl e d b y th e st e rn r e a lity
o f th e b a r e u n e v e nt fu l l i stl e ss l ives o f th e wo men
, , ,

wh i c h yo u a lw a ys h a d p i ctu r e d i n yo u r o w n m i nd
“
a s l ivi n g a m o ng th e fa nc i fu l glo ri e s o f th e A ra b i a n
N i ghts .W e w e re to ld th e s e glo ri e s i n t h e w a y O f ,

h a n gi n gs r u gs a n d d r a p e ri e s a r e o nl y b ro u gh t o u t
, , ,

fo r m a rri a g e s o r o th e r fe a sts a n d th a t t h e u su a l a p ,

p e a r a n c e o f th e ri ch e st I n di a n h o u s e ho l d i s s i m i l a r
to th e o n e w e a r e now vi siti ng A b e a u ti fu l C a sh .

m eri a n wo m a n with t h e ri ch o l ive co m p lex i o n o f a

,

b ru n e tt e a n d s o ft d r e a m y e yes bl a cke ned u n der th e ,

“ ’
l i ds wi th th e ko ho l s j e tty d ye , to give th a t l o ng ,

d a rk l a ngu a ge to th e e ye a n d h er l ittle b o y i n em , ,

b ro i d e red v e lv e t j a cket a n d ti nsel c a p a n d n oth i n g ,

else b e si d e s fo r r a i m ent wh o sh r a nk b a ck i n h i s ,

’
m o th e r s a r m s i n t e rro r a t o u r str a nge fa c e s a n d
d ress mad e a b eauti fu l M a d o n n a pi ctu re i n O ri ental
,

colo rs .
 A LLAH A BAD .
111

L ik e e ver yth i ng else th a t i s b e a u ti fu l i n th e E a st ,

th e fin e st wo m e n co m e fro m th e V a le o f C a sh m e r e .

Th is o n e w a s th e fa vo ri te wi fe o f th e Br a h m i n ; a n d
i t i s u n u su a l a m o n g th i s a ri sto c r a ti c s e c t to h a v e
m o re th a n o n e wi fe ex c e p t i n e xtr a o rd i n a ry c a s e s
, ,

a n d the n th e o l d e st wo m a n b eco m e s th e ru l e r o f th e

z en a n a who m a ll th e oth e rs a r e ex p e cted to r e

,

sp e ct a n d o b e y Thro u gh o u r i nterp r e te r w e t a lk e d
.
,

pl e a s a ntl y with th e s e l a d i es fo r a n h o u r a n d wer e ,

ch a rm ed b y th ei r g e ntle a n d fri e n dl y m a nn er wh i ch ,

l e ft a n i mp ressi o n O f c o rd i a l ity sweetn e ss a n d d i g

, ,

mity wh i c h wi ll l i nge r lo ng i n o u r me m o ri e s
, .

A t l e n gth w e m u st l e a v e ; a n d wo u ld s a y Good ,

”
b y w e a r e go i ng
,
wh e n M i ss S w a rn e d u s i n ti m e
, .

th a t thi s wo u ld b e a n u n p a rd o n a b l e b r e a ch o f I n d i a n
eti qu e tt e Wh e n a v i sito r t o a H i nd u ho u se l e a ves
.
,

th e c u sto m i s n o t to s a y I a m go i n g — th a t wo u l d
“ ”
, ,

v e r y p ro p e rl y sho ck th e h o stess ; bu t th e l e a ve
t a ki ng i s li k e th i s ! th e gu e st s a l a a ms h e r h o st e s s
“
a n d s a ys I co m e , to wh i c h th e l a d y swe e tl y r e
“
p li e s C o m e a g a i n
, .

To y w e d rove o u t to th e G r e a t M e l a h i n a h i gh
-d a

b a ro u ch e Two p o stili o n s r a n a he a d a n d cl e a r e d
.

th e w a y el s e o u r p ro gress m i ght h a v e b e e n fa t a ll y
,

t e rm i n a t e d a t so m e Sh a rp c o rn er Th e mel d /I i s a .

h i gh fe a st wh i c h t a k e s pl a c e o nc e e v e r y ye a r a t a
,

p o i nt wh er e the ye llow G a n g e s flows i nto th e b l u e

Ju m n a River Wh a t a s i ght ! Tho u s a nd s o f p i l
.
1 12 A GI R L S WI NTE R
’
IN I ND I A .

gri ms fro m a ll ov e r I nd i a a n d th e gre a t T hi b e t i a n

t a bl e -l a n d c o m e h e r e to b a th e i n th e G a ng e s — o l d ,

a n d l a m e yo u n g a n d b e a u ti fu l r a j a hs a n d b egg a rs
, , ,

c a mp i n g i n th e i r b a mb o o h u ts o n th e p l a i n b y t h e
river s i d e a m o ng t h e m u d cover e d h o l y m e n ; fo r
,
-

b ath i n g i n th e G a n ges wi ll d e stro y a l l si ns p a st p r e s , ,

e n t o r futu r e
,
We sto p p e d to sp e a k t o a gro u p o f
.

fa ki rs s itti n g a ro u n d so m e d e a d e mb ers th e i r fa c e s
, ,

p a i nt e d wi th c o lo r e d cl a ys th e i r h a i r S O m a tted a n d
,

c ov e r e d wi th a sh e s th a t i t i nd e e d s e e m e d i mp o s s i
,

b le to r e a l iz e th a t th ese were t he wi s e m e n fro m th e

Ii a st f
’

T he r Ol e o f a fa ki r
i s a ssu m ed b y B r a h m i ns a n d
ma n y who a r e n ot B r a h m i ns I t i s a p ro fe ssi o n .

i n I nd i a — a p ro fe ss i o n o f a sc etic i s m o r s a i nth o o d
,
.

Th e r e gi m e r e qu i r e d to b eco m e a H i n d u s a i nt i s
s e vere a n d terribl e The y a r e first ob li g e d to b e
.

c o m e stu d e nts l e a rni ng fro m th e o l d er p ri ests th e

,

“
s a c re d sc ri p tu res o f th e V ed a s ; th e y th e n p a ss
”
i nto th e s i l e nt l i fe o f p r a yer a n d sp end ye a rs o f ,

m e d it a ti o n i n th e j u ngl e to c o mpl e te th e i r s e l f-sa c

,

r i fi c e ; a n d a s a fi n a l t e st rem a i n s e v e n e a rs i n th e
, y ,

wo rl d I n I n d i a I m et a S w e d ish l a d y wh o tol d
.
,

m e th a t s h e spen t a n e ven i ng a t a b a ll i n B o mb a y
i n th e so c i ety o f a H i nd u wh o ch a rmed h er b y ,

h i s co nv e rs a ti o n h i s wi t a n d b ri lli a n c y
,
Being
, .

’
th o ro u ghl y i n s ymp a th y wi th th i s l a d y s th o u ght
a b o u t th e E a ste rn reli gi o n h e w a s m ove d t o tel l ,
 1 14 GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

C H A PTE R V I I I
“

C AL C U TTA .

J a n u a ry 2 3 .

B REEZ E i s b l owi n g a n d i t i s fro m th e B a y

,

o f B en g a l Th e r e i s a b r e a th -to u ch o f c old
.

a t ni ght fa ll a n d i t c o m es fro m th e H i m a l a a s Fro m

, y .

a l l th e o p e n wi ndows a n d b a lco n i e s a g e ntl e a i r r e

m i n ds yo u o f fl ow e rs a n d i t i s th e s c e nt o f th e
,

l otu s ; a n d l e a ves c o m e fl yi ng i n th e wi nd a n d th e y ,

’
a r e fro m t h e g a rd e ns o f t h e V i c e ro y o f I nd i a s p a l

a ce . Fro m my wi nd ow s e a t yo u c a n lo ok o ff a n d
-
,

sh i p s a r e l yi n g clos e to t h e d o cks th e i r t a ll m a sts ,

tr a c e d a g a i nst th e I nd i a n s ky a n d th e y a r e a n ,

ch o r e d o n the G a ng e s ; s o th a t yo u know th i s i s
C a l c u tt a a n d w e a r e i n t h e p r e s i d e nc y o f B e ng a l ,

t h e h e a rt o f th e gre a t a n d Spl e n di d I ndi a .

“ ”
Y o u m u st s a y I nd i a a l mo st r e v e r e ntl y n ot ,

l i ghtl y b e c a u se i t m e a ns s o m u ch ; i t i s S O wo n d e r
,

fu l ; w e a r e o r see m to b e p r e s e nt a t its d e a th
an d , , ,

o r th e p a ssi ng a w a y o f i ts l a tes t c o nqu e ro rs th e M o ,

gu ls I n I t a l y a n d oth e r l a nds ru i ns a r e r e m i nd e rs
.

o f p a st d a ys s o l o n g go n e b y th a t yo u t a lk o f th e m
,

a s m ere p h anto ms a n d s c a rcel y b e li eve th e m a s real

,
 CA L C U T TA .
1 15

iti e s ; b u t her e th e gre a t p a l a c e s a n d wo nd er fu l

m o s qu es h a v e to d o with p eople who a s i t w e r e , ,

h a v e j u st l e ft a n d a r e no t ye t fo rgotte n
, The .

p a l a c es a r e p e r fe ct o r n e a rl y s o — a b a ndo ned so
, ,

r e centl y b y th e e mp e ro rs a n d o nl y yesterd a y tr a ns
,

fo r med i nto fo rts a n d hi gh c o u rts o f j u sti c e .

I a m b e gi n ni ng to t a k e i n th e v a st e mp i re w e c a ll
I ndi a and my i m a gi n a ti o n i s p l a yi n g ri o t to -d a y
,

i n fa nc i e s Wh a t wo n der fu l p eop l e these B eng a li s

.

a re ! Th e re a r e fi ftee n th o u s a n d l e a rned u niv e rsity

g r a d u a t e s i n C a lc u tt a a lo n e — a m o n g the m h i gh
,

c a st e B r a h m i n stu d e nts who h a ve fi rst stu di ed a n d

,

l e a rne d Engli sh a n d th e n thei r o w n l a ngu a g e b e

, ,

si des S a nsc ri t whi c h i s t h e l a n gu a g e o f th ei r b o oks

, ,

th e l it e r a r y l a ngu a ge o f I nd i a .

A t si x o clo ck ye sterd a y m o rni n g I o p e ne d my

’

e ye s a n d s a w C a l c u tt a fro m th e r a ilway c a rri a ge ,

wh e r e w e sp e nt a v e ry go o d n i ght wr a pp e d i n ru gs ,

a n d with i n nu m e r a bl e c u sh i o ns N o o n e els e o c e n
.

p i e d th e c a rri a g e ; e a ch h a d a wi d e sl id i n g b e d to
sl ee p o n a n d th e re w e re th i rte e n d i ffe rent p a ck a ges
,

i n o u r c o mp a rtm ent fo r c o m fo rt Two yo u n g E n g .

l i s h me n n e x t d o o r o u tnu mb e r e d u s h oweve r a s I , ,

c o u nt e d th i rty b ox e s a n d tr a p s c o m e o u t o f th e i r
c a rri a g e th i s m o rni ng N o o n e m i nd s lu gg a ge i n
.

th i s c o u ntry . Twent y c o ol i e s were th e v e ry l e a st

th a t we r e q u i r e d to l a nd o u r l u gg a ge an d we c o u ld ,

easi l y h a ve ha d two h u n dred by a no d to them .

1 16 GI R L WI N TE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

The y w a lk e d fro m th e tr a i n acro ss t h e st a ti o n plat

fo rm c a rr yi ng o u r h e a v y b ox e s o n th e i r h e a ds a n d
, ,

w a ite d a t th e c a rri a g e d o o r to r e c e iv e th e i r two p i c e

e a ch — a b o u t o n e a n d a h a l f c e nts whi ch s a tisfie d
, ,

th e i r m o d e st a s p i r a ti o ns A c a rt m a d e o f lo n g r e eds
.

o f b a mb o o l a i d b e tw e e n two wheels a n d d r a wn b y

b u llo cks to o k o u r h e a vy b o x e s whi l e we m o u nt e d

, ,

a p a lki -gh a rri a n d d rove to t h e G re a t E a stern H ot e l

, .

Th e p a lk i p ro p e r i s a s qu a re b l a ck b o x
‘ -t h e go n ,

dol a o f C a lc utt a — a l w a ys b l a ck a n d b ri ghtl y v a r

,

n i s he d c a rri e d b y c o olies o n e a t e a c h e n d o f th e
, ,

t w o l o n g p ol e s o n wh i c h it r e sts Yo u e nt e r a sli d .

i n g do o r a n d recl i n e o n yo u r b a ck wh e n b e i ng c a r
,

ri ed a b o u t .

Th e G r e a t E a stern i s th e b est i n n tha t t he c a p i

t a l a ffo rd s b u t gre a tl y b e hi nd th e ti m es i n e very
,

m o d e rn i nventi o n Its s i tu a ti o n i s go o d fa c i n g
.
,

th e Govern m e nt H o u se o n t h e opp osite si d e o f ,

th e p a rk ; a n d there a r e pl e nty o f gre en trees a n d

fl ow e rs i n si ght fro m th e wi d e ver a nd a s Th e h ote l .

i s fu ll to o verflowi n g a s i t u su a ll y i s i n J a nu a r y
, ,

th e s e a so n i n C a lc utt a A serv a nt Shows u s ro o ms .

i n a n a nn e x i n a S i d e str e et wh i ch th e y c a ll a t e r ,

r a c e b u t i t l o oks l ike a sh ed ro u ghl y b u i lt wi th

, , ,

u np o lish e d b o a rd p a rti tio ns a n d fu rni shed with ,

thr e e b ed s v a r yi ng i n s i z e b u t c o mp o s e d a l ik e o f
, ,

i ro n sl a ts m e rc i fu ll y h i d d e n fro m S ight b y a th i n
,

m a ttr e s s sp re a d ove r th e m T he y p ro m is e b ette r .

th i ngs h owever l a ter o n

, , .
1 18 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

B r a h m o S o m a j fo u nd ed b y S en n e a rl y a l l o f who m
-
, ,

h a ve d i sc a rd ed c a ste an d s u p e rstiti o n a n d a r e th e ,

Lib er a ls o f I nd i a N o o n e sp oke Engli sh ; a n d

.

a m o ng s o m a n y wo m en no o th e rs b ut o u rs elv e s wo re ,

E u rop e a n d r e ss — a l l w e r e d r a p e d a lik e i n s a ri s b o r
, ,

d e re d with go ld a n d wo r e nos e ri ngs -

,
a n d e a rin gs
r -
,

exten di n g fro m th e t o p to the lob e o f th e e a r .

Th ro u gh th e vi st a m a d e b y b r a n ch i n g tr e e s we
w a n d e re d a i m lessl y tow a rd s a whi te p i ll a r e d C o r , ,

in th i a n h o u s e A m a gni
. fi c e nt b ro a d -sho u ld e r e d ,

o u n g I n d i a n l o oki ng li k e Ro m a n s en a to r i n hi s
y , a

wh it e to g a c a m e d own fro m h i s h o u s e a lo ng th e
,

gr e a t fl ight o f st e p s le a d i ng to th e gro u nd -fl o o r I t .

w a s S en s s o n ; h e sp oke to u s i n p e r fect En gl i sh
’

a n d exp l a i n e d with p ri d e th a t a ltho u gh t h e Lib e r a ls , ,

were ev e r y d a y sh a ki ng o ff th e s e cl u s i o n wh i ch
gu a rd s th e i r wo m e n h e wo u l d n ot ye t b e a llow e d
,

to e nter t h e b a z a a r o n l a d i e s d a y fo r fe a r o f o ffe n d ’

i n g s o m e o f th e C o nserv a tives Th e n h e p o i nted to .

h i s fa th e r s gr a ve i n a s qu a re g a rd e n -enclo s u re a d
’

j o i ni ng the h o u se ; i t w a s a wh ite s h a ft s i mp ly i n , .

s c rib e d with a B ib le vers e a n d h i s n a m e Th e .

d a u ghte r o f Se n i s m a rri e d to th e r a j a h o f C o o ch
B a h a r o n e o f th e ri ch e st a n d m ost Eu rop e a n o f n a
,

tive p ri n c e s T h e m a h a r a n e e d ress e d i n a wh it e b r o
.
,

'

c a d e d s a ri with a Ti w é r e o f di a m o n ds a n d p e a rls
, ,

a ve r
y l a rge h a ndso m,e wo m a n v e r y sel f-p o ssess e d , ,

was i n ch a rge of a st a ll , an d sold he r w a res with all

 CA L C U T TA .
1 19

th e c o qu e try a n d a ttr a cti o n o f a n English wo m a n .

We w e r e told th a t S e n w a s m o r e o f a Un i t a ri a n
th a n a n ythi ng e ls e a n d th a t th e B r a h mo s g a ve th e
,

m i ssi o n a ri e s m o r e tro ub l e th a n o rtho d o x H i n d u s ;

“ ”
a lso ,
th a t m a n y o f hi s s o -c a ll e d r e fo rm s w e re i n
r e a lity o nl y i n n a m e ; a n d th o u gh h e d i s c o u n t e
n a n c e d chi ld m a rri a g e
-
K e s h u b C hu nd e r Se n c o u l d
,

n o t r e si st th e t e m pt a ti o n o f m a rr yi n g h i s d a u ght e r a s
a ch i l d to th e ri c h r a j a h Th e B r a hm o -S o m a j h a s
.

s u ffe r e d s i nc e Se n s d e a th fro m a d ivi si o n i n the

’

r a nks M o s e md ha l the ri ght -h a nd ma n o f h is ma s

.
,

’
t e r wishe d to o cc u p y h i s v a c a nt pl a c e ; b u t S e n s
,

so n obj e ct e d to a n y p e rson t a ki ng hi s fa the r s p ul p i t

’

s a yi n g “
, M y fa th e r onc e p r e sent th e r e i s a lw a ys
,

p res e nt .K e s h u b C h u nde r S e n w a s e d u c a t e d i n
Engl a n d wh e r e h e i s s a i d to h a v e o nc e p r e a che d
,

fro m a t e xt t a k e n fro m s e v e n d i ffe r e nt r e l i gi o ns .

Th e so c i a l qu e sti o n n ow m o st d i scu ss e d e v e ry
“ —
wh e r e i n I nd i a i s H i nd u C hild M a rri a g e a n d the
”
“
A g e o f C o ns e nt B ill
- - It s e e m s to b e th e i mp r e s
.

s i o n th a t a r e b e lli o n m u st co m e o n e d a y to I nd i a ,

a n d th a t i t wil l b e c a u s e d b y th e En g l ish l a ck o f

d e c is i o n a n d fi rm n e ss i n d e a l i n g wi th th e qu e stio n
“ ”
of ch i ld -m a rri a g e wh i ch i s s o cl e a rl y wro n g to
,

th e b e st i nt e r e sts o f I nd i a Th e r e p o rts p ub lished

.

a re ex a gger a t e d a n d d o n o t r e a l l y r e p r e s e nt th e
,

Op i n io ns o f th e n a tiv e wo m e n i n the z e n a n a s w ho ,

a r e m o st a nx i o u sl y a w a iti n g so m e r e li e f I n o lden
.
120 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

ti m e s b e fo r e M a ho m e t a n r u l e b e g a n i n No rth
,

ern I nd i a th e wo m e n h a d gre a ter fr e e d o m th a n

,

thos e o f c ivi liz e d n a ti o ns i n t h e c ho i ce o f a h u sb a nd .

N o w th e M a h o m e t a n c u sto m o f e a rl y m a rri a g e s
,

i s engr a ft e d i n th a t m o st s u s ceptibl e o f r e ligi o ns ,

H i nd u ism a n d ex a gger a t e d i nto m a ki ng a c hi ld a

,

b ri d e .

C a lc u tt a i s not p retty o r e ve n p i ctu r e squ e — a , ,

l o ng fl a t c i ty n o t m u ch m o re th a n a m i le wi d e
, , ,

str e tch i ng fo r a sp a c e o f s e ve n m il e s a l o n g t h e
b a nks o f th e river H u gli a slow a n d m u d d y b r a nc h ,

o f th e gre a t e r G a ng e s Th e r e i s o nl y o n e go o d .

stre e t — wi d e wel l -p a ved a n d Sh a d y Thi s i s i n t h e

, , , .

E u rop e a n qu a rter ; a n d h ere a r e t o b e fo u n d th e fi n e

h o u s e s th a t h a v e giv e n to C a lc u tta th e n a m e o f t h e
C it y o f P a l a c e s Th e D o ri c c o l u m ns b ro a d v e r a n
.
,

d a s a n d wi nd ows with b a l co n i e s s u rro u nd i ng th e m

, ,

ma k e th e p l a c e a ttr a cti ve A n d th e n th e r e i s t h e
-
.

'
’
7n a z a a n —a p l a i n a b o u t a m i l e a n d a qu a rt e r lo ng
, ,

b e t we e n t h e riv e r a n d th e fo rt —wh e r e th e r a c es ,

t a k e p l ac e ; a n d t h e Ed e n G a rd e n s th e Rotte n R o w ,

o f C a lcu tt a wh e re t h e d rivi n g ro lls a l o n g i n th e a fter

,

noon .Th e n a tiv e str e ets a r e n a rrow d i rty a n d , ,

c rowd ed Th e y a r e li n e d with n a tive Sh op s ; a n d th e

.

fi rst th i n g th a t a ttr a cts yo u r a ttenti o n i s t h e w a y i n

wh i ch e v e ryth i ng a ma n h a s to s e ll i s i n fu ll Vi ew
of the p a sser -b y Th e r e a r e n o wi ndows i n wh i ch
.
,

th e b est sp ec i mens a r e a rr a nged a s a ttr a ctivel y a s

1 22 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

J a n u a ry 2 5 .

Fro m a b a lco n y i n cl e a r warm s u nshi ne u n d e r a n

, ,

E a st e rn s ky with th e noble figu r e s o f A rab i a ns P e r

, ,

si a ns a n d I nd i a ns i n b ri lli a nt c a sh m e r e s th ro ngi n g
, , ,

th e str e e ts w e wi tn e ss e d th e e n t r ee i nto C a lc u tt a o f
’

th e cz a rowitch A ll d a y th e e xc i te m e nt w a s i nt e ns e
.
,

“ ”
fo r th e I n di a n p e op l e d e a r l y love a to m a sh a a n d ,

w e r e fo r m e rl y r u l e d b y p a g e a nts O nl y i n th e E a st .

c a n o n e witn ess su ch a gl o ri o u s sp e ct a cle J u st b e .

y o n d u s i s G ov e rn m e nt H o u s e a g r e a t y e llow stu c c
, o ,

V ers a ill e s s u rro u nd e d b y p a rks a n d fo u nt a i ns ; wh i le

,

fro m th e hi gh g a t e w a ys top p e d , b y t he B riti sh l i o n s ,

str e tch e s a gol d a n d red li n e o f t h e qu ee n s sold iers ’

a l o n g t h e e spl a n a d e to th e st a ti o n wh e re twent y-o n e ,

gu ns a r e so u n d e d a s th e c z a rowi tch to u ches th e I n

’
d i a n so i l A n d so o n d own C a lc u tt a s b ro a d streets
.
, ,

’
b etwee n t h e gu a rd s p res e nt e d a rm s c a m e th e ,

m o u nt e d b o d y gu a rd o f th e Vi c e ro y t h e c r a ck c o rps
-
,

o f India ,
- Spl endi d n a tives i n r e d u n i fo rms a n d gol d
,

twi sted tu rb a ns c overi n g th ei r d a rk h e a ds M o st e f .

fe c t i v e i n th e p ro c e ssio n w e r e lo n g sl e n d e r fl a g -p ol es
with ti n y r e d a n d wh it e fl a gs e a ch l a n c e r ho ld i ng o n e
,

wi th th e ri ght h a nd a n d m a n a gi n g a fr a cti o u s A r a
,

b i a n h o rs e wi th th e oth e r The n th e h e ro e s o f I n di a n
.

w a rs ro d e b y fl a sh i n g wi th si lv e r a n d red d e co r a ti o ns
, .

A n d n ow co m es a p a u s e i n th e p ro c e ssi o n ; the n
a l l th e p eo p l e w a ve a n d ch e e r fr a nti c a l l y Six .

h o rses a pp e a r ri d d en b y fl a g l a nc ers d r a wi ng the

,
-
,
 CA L G U T TA .
123

st a t e c a r r i a g e i n wh i ch i s s e a t e d Lo rd L a nsdown e i n
,

u ni fo rm a n d b e si d e h i m th e blo nd yo u n g c z a r o
, , ,

witch H e w e a rs h i s s i lv e r R u ss i a n h e l m e t o n th e
.
,

fro nt o f wh i ch i s a wh i t e a n d S i lve r a i gr e tt e tw e lv e
i nch e s h i gh a bl u e a n d s i lv e r -e mb ro i d e r e d u n i fo rm
, ,

and a b r a i d e d wh it e cl oth j a cket ed g e d with s a bl e

-

thrown ov e r o n e Sho u l de r H i s exp r e ssi o n i s u n a f

.

fe c t e d a n d d i gn i fied M o re st a te c a rri a ges a n d ma g

.

n i fi c e n t tr a p p i ngs a r e c o m i n g ; a n d Pri nc e G e o rg e o f

G re e c e a n d two oth e r p ri nc e s ri d e b y e a ch h a vi ng ,

o u tri ders a n d p o sti li o n s followed b y th e a rti ll e r y

, ,

m a ki n g a c l a nki n g w a r l ike s o u n d i n p a ssi n g C lose

,
-
.

i n th e r e a r fo llows a ma n th e m ost c o ncern e d o f ,

the m a l l th e a nx i o u s a n d wo rri ed ch i e f o f p oli c e

, ,

o n wh o m rests t h e trem en d o u s resp o ns ibi li ty fo r th e

s a fe ty i n I nd i a o f th e p o o r h u nt e d cz a rowitch (I .

'
giv e yo u a cho i c e o f s p e l li n g ; th e p ri n c e s lu g g a g e
i s l a b e ll e d “
, Le W o e u nto E ngl a nd ,

i f a n y n ih ili sti c a ttem pt sho u l d s u c ce e d here !

“
S o p a ss e d the y th ro u gh th e g a t e s of Gov
e r n me n t H o u se A n d s o o n a fte r a p p e a r e d a c o r
.

t e g e o f I n di a n p ri nc e s — the r a j a hs o f a nci e nt
,

l i n e who s e c o a ch e s h a v e a p a ss ee lo ok a bo u t t h e
,
’

l i ni n gs a n d p a i nt e d p a n e ls B ut th e p ri nc e s th e m
.

selves ! — th e d e sc e nd a nts o f p a d ish a h s the n a w a b s ,

o f B eng a l ,
th e g u i c o w a r s a n d the p e shw a s who se
, ,

d r a p eri es overl o a d e d wi th j e w e ls a n d h e a vy e m
,

b ro i deri es o u triv a l e ve n th e p ri estl y v e stme nts o f

,
1 24 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

C a th o l i c c o u ntri e s A n d u p a n d d own C a l cu tta

.

streets str e tch e s a l o n g vi st a o f c ol o r C a sh m e ri a n ,

“
c ol o rs i n p u rp l e a n d r e d e ffe cts l i k e a v a st b e d o f
, ,

tu l i p s ”
— , fo r the o rd e r h a d b een given th a t a l l th e
town shou l d k e e p h i gh fe stiv a l A sc e n e O f E a ste r n .

sp l en do r p a st a l l i m a gi n a ti o n N O d o ubt a l l th i s .
,

ti m e t h e i mp e ri a l V i sito r i s v a i nl y l o ngi ng fo r h i s
tu b a n d a c u p o f Ru ss i a n t e a ; b u t w e a r e t a ki n g
,

o u rs a n d m u st r e st fo r the b a ll to n ight
,
- .

J n u ry 2 6 a a .

The A i d e d e -c a mp o f t h e V icer o y o f In d i a c o mma nds

-

y o u r pre s e n ce M o n,d a
y e v e n i n
g J a nu a r y 2 6 t o,
m eet H i s ,
”
I mperi a l H i g hn ess t he C za r o w itc h
,
.

Th e clo ck w a s striki n g t e n a s w e fo l low e d S h a nker

a n d h i s b est r e d tu rb a n d own th e st ep s o f th e Gr e a t

E a st e rn to o u r b a ro u ch e wh ere w e fo u n d two d i n g y
,

E a st e rn s e rv a nts s a l a a m i n g b e fo re t he O p e n c a rri a ge
d o o r Wh e n we a r e s e a ted i nsi d e th e y m o u nt b e
.
,

h i nd a n d lo ok a s d igni fi e d a n d i m p o rt a nt a s p o stil i o ns
,

c o u l d p o ssi bl y a p p e a r wi th b a r e bl a ck l e gs wr a p p e d
,

to t h e kn e e s i n d u sk y m u sli n gr ee n c o a ts a n d h u ge , ,

wh i t e m u sl i n tu rb a ns S h a nk e r s p ri n gs o n to th e
.

b o x a n d w e fa l l i n l i n e with a str e a m o f C a l c u tt a s
’
,

p riv a t e c a rr i a g e s a dv a nc i n g slowl y a lo ng th e so ftl y

,

l i ghted qu a rt e r o f a m i le wh i ch stretch e s fro m th e ,

’
Vi c e ro y s p a rk g a t e s .

-
R e d c o a t e d serv a nts with ye llow a n d red rop e
,

twi sted tu rb a n s an d gol d w a i stb a nds Sho w th e ,

 126 GI R L WI NT E R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

e xt e nd e d to h i s kn ee s Th e m a h a r a n e e d a u ght e r o f
.
,

C hu nd e r Se n i s h e r e i n a str a n g e m i xtu r e o f b a rb a ri c
, ,

a n d c ivi l iz e d d r e ss S h e i s th e o nl y e m a nci pat e d

.

r a j a h s wi fe i n I n d i a
’
H e r h u sb a n d e du c a t e d a t
.
,

C a mb ri dg e i nsi st e d o n m a ki n g a lov e -m a tch a t e i gh

,

t e e n wi th a gi rl who se fa th e r w a s o n c e a cl e rk I n a
B e ng a l b a nk a ltho u gh th e fo u n d e r O f th e B r a h m o
,

S o m a j A fa sci n a ting d a rk ski nn e d p ri nce wh o b e

.
,
-
,

lo n gs t o a n h i sto ri c a l fa m i l y o f M yso r e i s p r e s e nt e d ,

to u s , S hahz a d a M a ho m e t F u r r o k s h a h gr a nd so n ,

o f Ti p o o th e p ri n c e w h m d e th e E ngli sh
p , o a un

d e r V e ll e s l e y su ffer d e fe a t i n t h e D e c c a n
V
J u st .

sh u t yo u r e yes a n d i n fa nc y yo u h e a r th e m o st c u l
,

t i v a t e d Engl ish vo rc e Sp e a ki n g to yo u O p e n th e m .
,

a n d b e fo r e yo u i s a t a ll d a rk ma n with gli st e n i n g
, ,

te e th l u stro u s e yes a n d ex qu i site m a nn e rs showi ng

, , ,

h i s b a rb a ri a n a nc estr y i n th e h i gh b l a ck velvet c a p ,

with a b ro a d ri m o f d i a m o n ds a n d e m e r a ld s e nti rel y

e n c i rcli n g i t A bl a zi n g st a r j u st i n fro nt h o l ds a
.

wh i t e a i gr e tte ti pp e d with d i a m o nds a n d ru b i e s

,
.

B u t a b ove a l l l o ok a t th e ru b y wh i ch i s h a ngi ng j u st
, ,

o ve r h i s b rows ; a n d fa nc y t h e d i a m o n d c h a i n a n d
c oll a r wh i ch k e e p t h e n e ck qu i t e a s sti ff a s a p i llo ry ,

a n d lo ok as u nco m fo rt a b le Th i nk o f th e go l d b elted
.
-
,

g e m -stu d de d rob e a n d h e a r th is d i a m o nd p ri nc e
,

sp e a k i ng th e m o st p olish e d Engl ish a n d p a yi ng

gr a ce fu l c o mp li m ents i n t h e m os t c ivi liz e d w a y ; i m
a gi n e m a n r a j a hs h au ght y s i lent an d so l e m n even
y , , , ,
 C A L C U T TA . 127

m o re b ej ew e ll e d wi th stu dd e d swo rd s a tt a ch e d b y
,

d i a m o n d ch a i ns res e mbli n g g a yl y d r e sse d p u p p e ts i n

,
-

a m a squ e r a d e a n d yo u c a n fa nc y n ow wh a t th e
,

we a lth o f th e I ndi es re a ll y m e a ns .

T he tr a nsiti o n st a t e fro m b a rb a ri c clo thes to c ivi l

i z e d d r e ss i n t h e E a st i s c e rt a i nl y a m u si n g One .

r a j a h r e mi nd s u s o f a d u ll m o th wo rm j u st e me r g -

i ng to th e b u tt e rfl y st a t e T h e hi gh th r e e stori e d
.
,
-
,

d i a mo n d c rown o f h i s a n cesto rs i s p e rch e d i n O ri

ent a l m a nner a b ove h i s lo n g S ilk y b l a ck h a i r H e .

sti ll w e a rs th e n a tiv e rob e o f wh it e e mb ro i d e r e d c a sh

m e re fitti n g ti ght to th e w a i st a n d fu ll to th e kn e e
, ,

wh e re i t m e e ts a p a i r o f bl a ck a n d wh it e check e d
- -

tro u s e rs a n d p at e nt l e a th e r ti e s fresh fro m Reg e nt

,

S tr e et A n O ri e nt a l p ri e st o f th e G r e e k ch u rc h
.

tow e rs a b ove th e m a ll b y r e a so n o f th e s m a l l s mok e

,

st a ck o n h is h e a d d r a p e d i n p u rp l e l ik e hi s p l a i n
,

tr a ili ng rob e s A m a ss iv e go l d c h a i n h a ngs to h i s

.

w a ist wi th a b l a z i n g Gr e e k c ro ss Th e B u rm e s e a r e
, .

as qu a i nt a n d u nl ik e o th e r p eo p l e a s p o ssibl e Th e .

l ittl e B u rm e s e pri n cesses a r e sh o rt v e r y b rown a n d , ,

l o o k ver y u nh a p p il y o u t o f th e i r b e a d y bl a ck e yes
a t thi s n ew ele m ent o f E u ro p e a n l i fe i n wh i ch th e y

m ove The fl a sh o f u ni fo rm s th e d a zzl i ng r e d a n d

.
,
-

go ld c o a ts o f o ffi c e rs o f Eu ro p e a n a n d n a tive r e gi
m e nts th e j ewels o f th e Eu ro p e a ns c l a sh s p a rkl e
, , , ,

s c i nti ll a t e i n d a z z li ng vi si o ns A lo n e u n e qu a ll e d i n
.
,

m agni ficen ce a b a ll a t the vi ce ro y s i s the m eeti ng o f

,
’
128 A CI RL S
’
WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

c entu ri e s o f O ri e nt a l d e sp oti s m with th e r e presenta

t i v e s o f th e wo rl d s h igh e st c i vi liz a ti o n ; a n d i t se e m s
’

to m e th e li nk b et w e e n th e p a st a n d th e p resent i s
the yo u n g cz a rowitch — a C ae s a r
, a n d a t the sam e
,

t i m e a fa ther o f h is p eop l e .

J a u ry 2 8 n a .

A d e li c i o u s i mp r e ssi o n r e m a i ns o f a l ov e l y a ft e r
n o o n — a d riv e thro u gh l a wns s o clos e a n d gr e e n
,

a n d c a rp e t lik e th a t o n e wo u l d fa n c y i t w a s En gl a nd ;
-

a n E ngl a nd wh e r e p a l m s a n d p o mi se t t a shru bb e ry
a r e fl o u r i sh i n g o u t o f d o o rs i n J a nu a r y It w a s the .

a ft e rno o n o f th e g a rden p a rty a t G ov e rn m e nt H o u se

-
,

—a to m a sh a o f s u ch i mp o rt a n c e th a t a l l C a l cu tta
”

h a d wo r n a n e xp e ct a nt l o ok fo r d a ys We stopp e d i n .

fro nt l a rg e c a rp e ted t e nt wh ere t h e r e d c o a te d

of a ,
-

b a n d p l a ye d a n d whe r e gro u p s o f gi rls i n p r e tty

,

m u sl i ns a n d m e n i n e v e ry style o f O ri e nt a l a n d
c ivi li z e d g a rb w a lk e d to g e th e r o ver th e p a ths a n d
th ro u gh t h e fl ow e ri n g tr ee s o f th a t ri c h trop i c a l
g a rd e n .
—
I n th e c e n tr e o f i t w a s t h e vi c e r e g a l
p a rty — Lo rd a n d L a d y L a n sdown e th e H i ghl a nd
, ,

a i d es -d e -c a mp a n d th e Ru ssi a n c z a rowitch
, d ress e d ,

li k e a n En gl i sh gentl e m a n The gl a mo u r go n e o n e
.
,

b e gi ns to c riti c i s e ! h i s n e ck i s l a rge ; h e h a s a p a ll i d
c o mpl e x i o n ; yo u d isco v e r h e i s a s m a l l ma n with
o u t th a t h e a vy u n i fo r m a n d fu r ed ge d c a p e
- Wh a t a .

su rp ri s e ! H owever th e tr a c e o f sw e e tn e ss a n d
,

g e ntl e ness i s sti ll th ere a n d h i s l ip s c u rl wi th a

,
1 30 A CI RL S
’
WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

fo rth i n fi n e a rr a y to h e a r th e mi lit a r y b a n d p l a y i n
th e E d e n G a rd e ns ; a n d i t b e fe l l u s a lso to sp en d
one ho u r th e r e a m o n g th e blosso m s a n d ov e r
Sp r e a d i ng tre e s A n d when th e s u n fi rst ti n g e s a l l
.

N a tu r e with i ts m e llo w ti nt e d l i ght a n d th e n h a st e ns ,

a wa y b e h i n d th e western h i lls a n d m e n s sh a d ows ,

’

l en g th e n a s th e d a ys d ec r e a s e ; a n d wh e n t h e m u si c
“
p a u s e s a n d yo u h e a r i n t h e h e dg e s
,
th e l e m o n
”
p e t a l s g e ntl y fa l l wi thi n th e wi ndl e ss I n d i a n n i ght ,

a n d a l l th e m ovi n g th ro n g i s str a ng e l y l u ll e d to qu i e t

b y th e sp e l l m a d e b y t h e m o o nb e a m s a n d s a d d e n e d ,

a s i f so m e wi st fu l u nknown d r e a m h a d sh a p e d i ts e l f
,

i n tho u ght — s u d d e nl y a t o u r s i d e b e nd s a d a rk
,

e ye d I n d i a n p ri nc e i n s a l u t a ti o n wh o i s tho u gh , ,

d ower e d b y b i rth wi th p ro u d d e sc e nt ,

s p eech “
In
R i g ht g e ntle ye t s o wise ; p ri ncel y o f mie n
, ,

Y e t s o ftl y ma n n e re d ; mo dest d e fere n t

-
, ,

A n d te n der he a rte d th o u g h o f fe a rless bl o o d

-
, .

T a ki n g i nsp i r a ti o n fro m th e s ce n e h e s p e a k s to u s o f ,

N a tu r e a n d th e gl o ri e s o f th e H i m a l a ya s a n d b e a u ty ; ,

a n d e nd i n g wi s h e s fo r u s go o d fo rtu n e a n d a s a fe
,

“ ”
j o u rn e y a n d s a ys
,
Sa la a m , .

“
Sa la a m , h o w m u c h th i s wo rd e xp r e sses !
wh a t a wo rd a l a n gu a ge i n itsel f ! i n h ow m a n y
,

fo rm s i t c o m e s to a l l — s o m e ti m e s o ft e nti m e s
, , ,

b ri ngi n g gl a d n e ss a n d a g a i n fi n ish i n g fo rever

, , ,

so m e i ntern a ti o n a l ro m a nc e b egu n o n shi pb o a rd ,

 C A L C U T TA . 13 1

and i n the tro p i cs o f C e yl o n l i n geri n g o n i n ,

I nd i a d yi ng sl owl y a n d en d i ng with th e m ess a ge

, , ,

” ”
Sa la a m ! S a l a a m b e gi n s th e d a y ; yo u Op e n
y o u r e yes a n d
,
th e a ya h p a rts th e p u rd a h s b end s ,

her bl a ck a n d d u sk y h e a d over th e p i llow a n d ,

”
sm il e s whisp e ri ng
,
Go o d -m o rn i n g s a l a a m
, Yo u r
, .

“ ”
b o y c o mes i n n o w wi th ch ot h a z ri a n d b a l a nc i n g
a -
,

the tr a y recklessl y with o n e h a nd b ows l ow ove r th e ,

t e a a n d to a st with h i s ri ght h a n d m ovi ng slowl y

,

“
fro m h i s e ye s d own to th e w a i st a n d r e p e a ts , Sa ,

la a m . A fter h o t w a t e r a n d a sp o n g e h a v e e n c o u r
a ged yo u fo r a d a y o f ro u n d s o f e x c it e m e nt yo u ,

l e a ve yo u r ro o m ; a n d wh i t e tu rb a n e d d a rk fi g
-

u res ri s e fro m h i d d en c o rn ers u p a n d d own th e

h a ll n o i seless a s m a gi c a n d b ow d own p ro fo u ndl y
, ,

“
a s yo u p a ss S a la a m Y o u a r e n ow go i ng fo r a
.

d riv e ; and fro m e ntr a n c e t e n co ol i es

th e h otel
st a rt o ff to vol u nteer to sc a re u p a p a lki a n d ,

b e fo r e go i n g stu mbl e o ve r o n e a nothe r i n o n e p ro

,

“ ”
fo u nd sa la a m T h e bl i nd b e gg a r who m yo u
.
,

h a v e a lm o st ru n d own i n yo u r g ha r r i } o r wh o sits
on h i s r a gg e d ma t b y th e ro a d si d e i s i m p l o ri n g ,

“ ”
y o u r ch a rit y i n a b e s e ech i ng w a i l S a l a a m.

”
a l ms h e m o a ns
, giv e go o d p e o pl e o r I d i e '
, , ,

Yo u to ss a p i c e to a l i ttl e q u a i nt b l a ck fi gu re ,

whos e a n a to m y i s a l l vi si bl e wi th n o v e sti ge o f a
,

ra
g f o r cloth i ng a n d wh
, o h a s earned yo u r a d mi rati o n
1 C a rri g e a .
 I 3 2 A CI RL S
’
WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

fo r h i s wo nd e r fu l ru nni n g o f m i l e s o f th e w a y keep ,

i n g u p to th e ho rs e s a n d b e a ti ng h i s l i ttl e c h e st to
,

i nd i c a te h u ng e r c r yi ng betw e e n b r e a th s S a l a a m s a
, , ,

la a m Yo u h a v e s e nt a n ote b y a c o ol i e m e ss e n g e r ;
i t w a s rec eiv e d yo u know th a t Th e a n sw e r c a m e
,
.
,

“
M y c o m p li m e nts — sa la a m We h a v e i t i n the
, .

sh op s S h a ll I s e nd it h o m e fo r yo u M i ss S a h ib ?
.
,

”
Ve ry w e ll s a l a a m
, We a r e d rivi n g u p to a b e a u
.

ti fu l b u n g a l ow T he s yc e j u m p s d own a n d t a k e s
.
,

y o u r c a rd m, ovi ng h i s O p e n fi n gers b e fo r e h i s fa c e
”
o n rec e ivi ng i t sa la a m
, O n th e wi d e v e r a nd a
.

st a nd o u r fri e nds Th e se rv a nts m a k e a g e n e r a l

.

”
s a l a a m i n c o nc ert a s i f to Sl ow m u si c wh e n yo u ,

ent e r th e d o o r a n d p ass i nto t h e h o u s e The s u a ve .

,

p o l i sh ed d es ce n d a nt o f M a ho m et r e c eiv e s yo u i n
th e a ntero o m ; a n d b e fo r e t a ki ng yo u r o ffe r e d h a nd
, ,

b en ds h i s h e a d m o st r e sp e ct fu ll y a n d gr a c i o u sl y ,

s a ys i n gr e e ti ng h i s a n ci e nt ti m e ho no r e d M a h o
,
-
,

m et a n sa la a m A b e a uti fu l wo m a n i s sitti ng o n
.

P e rsi a n c a rp e ts i n th e m i d st o f O ri e nt a l h a ngi ngs

,

a n d d r a p e ri es ; S h e ri s es l o o ks d own v e i ls h e r b e a u
, ,

ti fu l fa c e wi th o n e j e w e ll e d h a nd wh i ch s h e sw e e p s ,

with a gr a c e fu l g e stu re fro m h er b rows d own

w a rd S h e i s s a yi n g yo u r wel c o me to h e r ho u se
.
,

th a t yo u ma y enj o y a ll sh e e nj o ys a n d b e h a p p y ; ,

an dwh a t s he a l m ost m u rm u rs i n s o ftest vo i c e i s ,

“
sa la a m Th e gr a c i o u s l a d y s s o ft fo oted H i nd u
.
-
’

wo me n m ove gentl y ab o u t i n wh ite d rap eri es and ,

 134 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

C H A PTE R I X .

BE N A R E S A N D T H E B R A H M IN S .

J a n u a ry 3 1 .

T is S at u rd a y mor n i ng b r i ght c l e a r a n d c l ou d
, , ,

l e s s a s o n l y th i s I n d i a n c l i m a t e c a n b e o n o c
,

cas i o n s Th u rs d a y even i ng at h a l f -p a st n i n e w e
.
, ,

w er e j u st l e a v i n g C a l c utt a dr i v i ng dow n t h rou gh ,

t h e m a i d a n ove r th e b roa d ro a d a cros s th e H u g l i

,

B r i dg e a n d i nto a room y r a i l w a y c a r r i ag e r es erve d

,
-

fo r u s a t th e st a t i on wh e re a m a tt r es s was Sp re a d
,

o u t b y S h a n ke r wh o h a d b e e n th e re two hou rs
,

f
b e o re a tt e nd i n g t o th e baggage
,
— fa i th f u l dog ,

th a t h e i s We soo n we nt to S l ee p a n d l i ke t h e
.
, ,

good l i tt l e g i r l i n t h e so n g “
kn ew n o mo r e u nt i l ,

”
th e b reak o f d a y .

A t s i x o c l ock th e n ext mo r n i ng w e f o u n d w e
’

had S l ept th ro u gh th e gr e a t B e n g a l Pr es i d e n c y ,

a n d w e r e op en i n g o u r e es o n O u d e th e an c i en t
y ,
i
k i n gdom wh er e s o m a n y gre a t I n d i a n k i ngs h a ve
l i ved a n d fou g ht th e i r b a tt l e s W i th lau d a b l e .

fo re s i ght S h a nke r a p p ears w i t h a b r a s s t r a y a n d

,

s mok i n g ch a i a n d w e al so prod u c e som e goo d

,

b read an d j a m fro m th e l u n ch -basket ; an d at t e n

 B E NA R ES A IVD TH E B R A H M I NS .
13 5

o c lock w e m et M i s s S M og u l S er a i t he
’

at ,

j u n ct ion fo r A l l ah a b a d a n d B enare s Now ever y .

m om e nt i s on e o f i nt e n s e exc i t e m e nt u n t i l w e a t ,

l a st c ro s s th e s a cre d r i ve r o n th e w i de a rch e s wh i ch
sp a n i t ove r wh i ch move s a co n st a n t p roce s s i o n o f
,

p i l g r i m s e a ch o n e c a rr yi ng i n o n e h a nd a b r a s s
,

w a t e r j u g a n d a ro p e -basket o f co tto n m esh e s co n

-

t a i n i n g so m e r i c e a n d a b l a nket s l u ng o n th e two ,

e n ds o f a b a mboo po l e bal a n c e d from th e sho u l der ,

and i n t h e o th er h a n d a st a ff th e b a dge o f p i l ,

gr i m a ge ; a l l t yp es a l l gr a des l i m p i n g b egg a r s
, ,

and h a u ght y r a j a h s a l l w i th o n e thou ght o n e

, ,

a im one a mb it ion
,
—t o r e a ch B e n a r e s t h e H i n d u
, ,

Rom e th e most s ac re d c i t y i n th e i r wo r l d
,
.

Th e sc en e n ever ch a n ges Th e m u lt i t u de s s u rge

.

o n fo reve r l i ke gre a t w a ves n ow an d th en reced i ng

, ,

o n l y to g a i n n e w fo rc es f rom th e o ce a n o f h u m a n
i t y wh i ch i s ro l l i n g o n wh i l e w e s l ee p a n d whe n
,

we w a k e th rou gh co l d a n d h a rd sh i p u n dau nt ed ; fo r
,

t h e j o u r n e y i s a p a th t o h e a ve n .

F a r a w a y over th e l eve l p l a i n s o f I nd i a yo u s e e
, ,

t he m ov i n g l i n e o f p i l gr i m s m a rch i n g a l on g t h e
-
,
f
d u st y h i g h ro a ds a n d fi l i ng th ro u g h t h e oot p ath s-

wh i ch bo u n d th e r i c e fi e l d s
- F ro m th e i c e h i l l s
.
-

o f Th i b e t th e y com e t o b re a th e t h e p a rch i n g a i r

o f C e nt r a l I nd i a — a l mo st m a rt yr s to th e fa i th .
,

F rom t ro p i c a l C e yl o n the y co me s u ffer i ng ho rr i b l y,

fro m th e n i g ht co l d h a v i n g o n l y o n e garm e nt o f
,
136 GI R L S WI N TE R I ND I A
’
A IN .

a bo u t two ya rd s o f m u s l i n f o r p rot e ct i o n O ther .

poo r c re a t u re s a r e p rov i ded w i th qu i lt ed com fort

ers ,
m a d e f rom g a y cotto n s wh i ch th e y wr a p a bou t
,

th e h e a d a n d body ; b u t th e i r l egs a n d fe e t are b a re

a s i n t h e hott es t s u m m er t i m e I n th e c i t y st reet s
.

t ra i n s a r e b l ocked a n d som et i m e s de l a yed fo r ho u rs

b y th e r u sh o f p i lgr i m s a n d m a n y tho u s a nd s e n
,

c a m p a bout th e o p e n s qu a r e s a t n i ght Yo u r fi rs t .

th o ught i s th a t a l l th e co u nt r y i s o n th e move ; b u t
ou fi na l l u nd erst a n d th e m e a n i ng o f i t a l l whe n
y y ,

i n som e ho l y p l a c e l i ke B e n a res yo u ob s erve th e

ab so l u t e b l i s s o n th e fa c es o f tho s e poo r wretch es
who h a ve a t l a st b y ye a rs o f ho a rd i n g a n d s a v i ng
, ,

c r u e l s u ff e r i n g f rom h u ng e r a n d dest i t ut i o n du r i n g
th e j o u rn e y ent ered th e p l a c e wh i ch t o them i s
,

t h e ve r y g a t e o f h e a ve n .

A ft e r a d r i ve o f h a l f a n ho u r th ro ugh th e c a n to n
m en t w e p a s s u n d e r a p rett y a rchw a y f estoon e d
, ,

w i th v i n es a n d a rr i ve i n f ro nt o f C l a rk s H ot el
,
’

s i t u a t ed i n th e ce n t re o f qu i et g a rde n s l i k e a l i t t l e
,

s u m m er -ho u s e i n the cou nt r y A fte r t i ffi n we a r e

.

b es et b y a n a t i ve g u i d e i n ye l l ow -st r i p ed c a l i co
t ro u s ers a n d r ed s t r i ped co a t o f th e sam e m a t er i a l
-
,

who h a v i n g p i cked u p som e E ng l i sh words s a l a a ms

, ,

u s wh en we appear a t the ope n doo r a n d h umb l y ,

b es eech e s to b e a l lowe d to accom p an y th e p a rt y ,

“
sayi n g What i s o n e r u p e e two rup e es to yo u r r e
, , ,

”
s p e c t a b l e H i gh n es s ? wh i ch d ec i de s u s a n d we e n ,
138 GI RL WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

wood w a s p i l ed a n d th e to rch th a t ye a r n ed t o con

,

s u m e i t fl a m ed i n the h a n ds o f a p r i e st a s e r p ent , ,

u nd e r th e form o f A nant a ro s e f rom th e m i dst o f

,

th e grou nd a n d s e i z i n g the s a c r ed hor se the v i ct i m

, ,

p rom i s ed to B r a hm a d i s a ppe a re d w i th i t
, sw a l ,

l owed u p b y the ya w n i ng e a rth S u r p r i s e fe l l o n

.

th e mon a rch S a g a r a ; a s fo r t he R i sh i s a n d B r a h
m i n s a n d s a i n t l y a n ch or i tes th e y wer e fi l l ed w i th
,

hot i n d i g n a t i o n .

Th e n th e b row o f th e mo n a rch grew red a s th e

bo l t s o f th e fl a m i ng I n dra ‘
What wo u l d yo u h a ve
.

m e do ? ’
aske d t h i s f u r i ou s t i ger o f m e n Th er e ‘

”
a r e s ixt
y thou s a n d h eroe s who c a l l S a g a r a fa th er .

S u m m o n my son s fo rt hw i th sho uted th i s e n raged ,

’

ru l e r o f m e n .

“
The n th e s e S I xt y t ho u san d p r i n c es c a m e i n
hast e an d fou n d th e i r m a gnan i m o u s p a re nt l yi ng
,

w i th h i s fa c e i n th e d u st how l i ng an d b i t i ng th e
,

d u st l i ke a n e l e p h a n t st ru ck b y th e h u nt er The y .

j o i n ed h a nd s a ro u nd h i m a n d reve re n t l y p er form ed
,

a pr a d a k s h i n a The n th e y aske d what had Shake n

.

th e b a l a nc e o f h i s equab l e h u mo r .

“ ’
‘
S l a y m e th i s r a v i sh e r o f th e h or s e moan ed ,

’
forth the p ro st r a t e m o n a rch
‘
We w i l l rep l i ed i n
.
,

o n e b re a th th e s ixt y tho u s a n d h ero e s A t that th e .

r e l i eved S a g a r a ro l l ed n o mo re i n th e d u st .

“
Th e s ixt y tho u s a n d so n s o f S a g a ra exp l o red th e
l an d fa r a n d w i d e ; w i th l an ce s p i ckaxe s a n d c l ub s
, ,
 B E NA R E S AN D TH E B R A H /II I N S . 1 39

they threw u p th e earth a n d exa m i n ed i t ; b ut n o

wher e c ou l d th es e i nd e fa t i g a b l e hero e s d i scover a
t r a ce o f the i r e n em y .

“
B u t brok e n b y a xes a n d spades h ewed a n d ,

h a cked a n d wo fu l l y i nj u red h er i n noc e nt bo som ,

sh e d an d m n l ed th e h a rm l es s godde s s Fr i th
g a a g ,

i v i m ut e l y app ea l ed to H eaven A do l orou s c r y .

mo u n t ed u p f rom s erpent s a n d l i z a rd s a n d b eet l e s

a n d m r i a d s o f l i v i n g c r e a t u re s whom the f u r i o u s
'

y
ze a l o f th e h ero e s ha d wo u nd ed a n d m a i m ed .

’ ‘
‘
Et er n a l B rahm th e y sobb ed d e i gn to h e l p u s
, , .

Tho u h a st g i ve n u s b e i ng ; i t i s th i n e e s s e nc e
’
wh i ch qu i cke n s o u r b lood .

“
Th e n t h e Et er n a l F o u n t o f Exi ste n ce a n swered
t hem g r a ve l y sm i l i n g
,
O u t o f ev i l co m e s goo d
°
‘
.

The s e S a g a r i d e s who d est roy l i f e Shal l h a ve the i r

own l i ve s t ake n f rom th em ; b u t f rom th i s a c t o f
the i r s sh a l l fo l l ow a b l es s i n g th e bo u nt i f u l fe
, ,

c u n d yo u ng G a ng a Sh a l l b r i n g he r f resh b u bb l i n g
,

w a t er s to rej o i c e th e h e a rt s o f a l l c re a t u res .
’

“
Th e i l l u st r i o u s r u l er o f m en th e a nxi o u s m o n ,

arch S a g a r a c a l l ed to h i m th e yo u th fu l A n s u ma t
, ,

who s e l i mb s wer e l i k e yo u n g fi r t rees T hy u n c l e s - .

‘

’
a r e lo ng i n com i n g h e sa i d to th e yo u th fu l w a r
,

r i o r ; my 5 0 11 go i n s e a rch o f t hy u n c l es a n d b i d
‘
, ,

th em ret u r n h ere sw i ft l y M y h eart m i sg i ves m e

.
,

A n s u ma t ; b i d them ret u rn very s w i ft l y

’
.

“
A n d s o th e val i ant yo u ng warr i o r w ent forth to
1 40 A GI R L ’
S WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

s eek fo r h i s u n c l es The lo rd l y V i r u p a k s ha th e
.
,

ma gn a n i mo u s M a h a p a d ma the rob u s t S a u ma n a s
, ,

th e s u b l i m e H i ma p a n d u r a a l l greeted th e n e p hew
,

o f s ixt tho u s a n d u n c l es a n d g a ve h i m n ew s o f h i s
y ,

r e l a t i ve s B u t wh e n th e i n de fa t i g a b l e yo u th re a ch ed
.

th e i n fern a l reg i on s a n d beh e l d t h e st a t e o f h i s n u

c l es h e fe l l o n h i s fa c e on th e gro u n d u tt e r i ng t h e
, ,

mo st do l o ro u s sh r i eks .

“
H a v i ng b em o a n ed w i th t e a rs a n d lo u d w a i l i ngs
th e fa t e o f th es e i l l u st r i ou s S a g a r i d e s A n s u ma t ,

looked ro u n d h i m anxi o u s l y fo r w a t e r w i th wh i c h
to l ave th e C i n der s o f the s e u n fo rt u n a t e h ero es ; fo r
u n l es s c l e a n sed b y l u st rou s w a t ers th e d e a d a r e n ot
,

a dm i tt ed i n to p a r a d i s e the d e fi l e me n t o f e a rth l
, yp a s

s i o n s re n d er i ng t hem u nfit fo r th e c e l est i a l a bode .

Look i n g ro u nd ,
A n s u ma t p e rce i ved p e rch ed o n t h e
,

to p most bo ugh o f a n a c a c i a -t r ee G a r u d a th e k i n g
, ,

of a ll D o n ot a ffl i c t you r s e l f m o st
‘
th e b i rd s
.
,

’
i l l u st r i o u s o f m e n s a i d th i s m a gn a n i m ou s b i rd
,
.

T hy so n s c a n n ot e nt e r p a r a d i s e t i l l p u r i fi ed b y th e
‘

c e remo n y o f l u st rou s w a t ers ; bu t th i s Sh a l l not t a ke

p l a c e u n t i l th e G a n ga Sh a l l qu i t t h e c e l est i a l r e
g i o n s a n d b r i ng h e r s p a rk l i ng w a ve l et s to r e j o i c e
’
th e i nh a b i t a n t s o f th e wo r l d .

Fo r th e S p a c e o f o n e tho u s a n d ye a r s th e a ffl i ct ed
m on a rch S a g a r a st rove v a i n l y t o fi n d som e m ean s
of i n d u c i n g th e b e a u t i f u l G a ng a to a b a n do n th e
hou s e o f th e gods A t l en gth B ha g i r a t h a t h e ma g
.
,
 1 42 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

to th e fan c i f u l G a ng a th e qu een a mon gst b e a ut i fu l

,

r i vers ! 0 ch i l d o f th e o l d H i m a l a ya whom th e
‘
,

a rm s o f Pr i th i v i o n c e c r a d l ed ! th i s b re a st wh er e
th en tho u d i d st s l u mb e r i s parch ed w i th a f eve r
i sh th i rs t ; th ere fo re d es c en d O Gang a B r i d e o f
.
,

th e h eaven s ! t hy ho m e i s f u l l o f del i ght ; th e a i r i s

h e a vy w i th p er fu m es ; th e m i rth f u l a p s a ras fl i t j o y
ou sl h i th e r n d th i th e r ; th e st r a i n s o f th e d re a m
y a
y
g a n dharvas th r i l l every ye a r w i th r a p t u re Th e l i ght .

h er e i s go l d en ye t so ft ; th e shad e h ere i s l a n gu i d
, ,

e t warm ; a n d th e god s who dwe l l h e re a r e h a pp

’

y y .

Th e n th e l a rge h eart o f th e G a n g a st a rt ed a n d
th robb ed i n h er b osom ; a n d w i tho u t p a u s e o r r e
fl ect i o n ,th e gen e rou s qu een o f a l l r i ve r s ru sh ed
f rom th e hom e o f th e go d s i n a b u rs t o f i mp et u ou s

p a s s i o n s i n g i n g I co me O b e l oved ! dou b l y b e
, ,
‘
,

l ove d fo r t hy so rrow S t epp i n g fo rw a rd th e ge n

.
’

e r o u s S i va i n wh os e s i ght l i f e i s p rec i o u s rece i ved

, ,

th e gre a t r u sh of w a t er s ,
an d uph e l d on hi s f or e
h ead th e i mpu l s i ve d a u ght e r o f M e n a th a t i n h e r ,

g e n e ro u s fe r v o r s h e m i ght n o t overwh e l m th e earth .

Th e god s th e R i sh i s a n d B r a h m i n s th e A s u r a s
, , ,

th e S i ddhas a n d N a gas a n d a l l th e host s o f e a rth

,

an d o f h e a ve n c a m e to w i t n e s s th i s m a rve l lou s
,

s i ght ,
— th e j o yo u s desc e n t o f th e G a n ga ”
.

Fo r a m i l e w e d r i ve th rou gh the n a t i ve ba z aars .

H e r e ma y b e fo u n d b u s y p eop l e w ork i n g at v ar i ou s
t rades I t i s marve l l ou s how m u ch t h e n at i ves can
.
 B E NA R E S AN D TH E B R A H Il/I N S . 1 43

m a n a ge t o do w i th th e i r f eet a n d t o e s H e re i n .
,

th e t a i l o r quart e r a r e the d h u r z i e s s ew i n g i nd u s
,

t r i o u s l y lo n g b re a dth s o f b e a u t i f u l S i lk o n e e n d o f ,

wh i ch th e y ho l d w i th th e i r toe s A n a t i ve cook i s
.

a l so s a i d to b e ve r y ex p ert i n th i s d i rect i o n and ,

c a n m a ke c u r r y ext re m e l y we l l u s i n g f eet i n st e a d
,

o f han d s .We l e a ve th e car r i a ge a t th e r i v e r a n d ,

fo l low a fl i ght o f e i ght y s teps l e a d i ng to th e won

,

d e r fu l Ghau t s .

O n e fi rst s ees B en are s f rom th e r i ve r an d n o ,

b ett e r V i ew o f i t i s pos s i b l e to b e obt a i n ed Th e .

c i t y i s b u i l t o n a c r es c e n t t u r n o f th e G a n ge s ,

o n c l i ff s e i ght y o r n i n et y f eet h i gh ; a n d th e a s
t o n i s h i n g e ff ect prod u c e d b y m i l e s o f ston e ste p s

des ce n d i ng from th e h e i gh t s a bove c rown ed w i th ,

p a l a ce s t emp l es a n d m o squ es
, , som e i n good
,

p re s erv a t i o n oth e rs st a i n ed b roken a n d fa l l en

, , ,

i nto th e r i ver — i s n ot l i k e a n yth i n g e l s e i n th e

,

wo rl d . R i ch r a j a h s h a ve b u i l t p a l a c e s h er e wh i ch ,

th e y oc c u p y per i od i c a l l y a s o th er p e o p l e h a ve
,

co u nt ry h om es i n d i ff e ren t p l a c e s ; b u t th e ch i e f
-

p u rpo s e o f th e i r a n n u a l v i s i t t o B en a res i s to
w a sh aw a y s i n s con t r a cted i n l e ss h ol y p l a c e s .

Th e m u dd y a n d d i rt y G a n ges se em s to be a r w i t
n es s t o th e b l a ckn e s s o f th e a fo res a i d S i n s A .

st r e a m o f flowers i s con st a nt l y flo a t i n g down th e

c u rren t o f th e r i ve r — o ffer i n gs m ad e b y th e H i n
,

d u s to th e Godde s s o f t h e Wate r .
1 44 A GI R L ’
S WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

At th e b a th i ng Gh a u t t h er e wer e h u n d reds o f
p i lg r i m s p e r fo rm i n g th e mo st sacred act o f th e i r
re l i g i on W a t ch i ng o n e ma n ve r y p a rt i c u l arl y w e
.
,

co u l d s e e h i m wr i gg l e a n d tw i st i n th e w a t e r ,

po i n t h i s h a nd s togeth e r a n d b en d h i s h e a d ve r y
,

so l em n l y ; t a k e t he w a t er i nto t h e m ou th ej e ct i t ; ,

p l a ce som e i n t h e ho l low o f th e h a nd a n d o ff er i t ,

t o th e s u n t h e no rth so u th e a st a n d we st ; c l ap
, , , ,

i t o n th e fo reh e a d pa t h i s h e a d ver y devo ut l y a n d

, ,

g e n u fl e c t l i ke a n I t a l i a n i n N a p l es ; th en w a sh i n
th e r i ver h i s two p i ec es o f l i n en th e o n e fo r th e ,

h ead a n d th e oth er fo r th e body ; a n d a ft erw a rd s

p er fo rm th e m o st m e r i tor i o u s a c t o f a l l — d r i nk ,

th e wat er a n d c a rr y i t aw a y i n l ot a s p erh a p s m a n y
, ,

h u n dred s o f m i l es to b e u s ed fo r h i s d evot i o n s
,

u nt i l th e n ext p i l gr i m a ge W e s e e m e n h er e who
.

h a ve b ee n t we l v e ye a r s do i n g th e h ol y Sh r i n es o f
I n d i a n ow w ret ch e d b egg a r s m o st m i s e rab l e a n d
, ,

poo r b u t fa n a t i c a l l y h a p p y
,
.

I bou ght fo r h a l f a r up e e f rom a p i lgr i m w h o ,

had j u s t l e ft th e r i ve r a wo r n b ras s j a r wh i ch h e
,

h ad j u st fi l l ed w i th th e G a nges wat er Perh a p s .

th i s s a m e lota ha s t r a ve l l ed man y m i l es o f I n
d i an h i ghw a ys W e l l n ow t h a t I h a ve i t i t m u st
.
, ,

b e p u t to a b a se r u s e, — in ado r n i n g a n A m e r i ca n

hom e .

Farth e r on ,
b oat s were row i n g s l ow l y o u t i n th e
st ream w i th g rou p s
,
of d evot i o nal H i n du s carryi ng
1 46 WI N TE R I ND I A
’
A CI R L S IN .

fi n d i ng o u t h i s fl esh a n d f eed i ng o n i t w i th sw i ft ,

”
h i s s i ng tongu es A noth e r p yre i s s mo u l de r i n g
.
,

st i rred u p occ a s i o n a l l y b y th e p r i e st s ; a n d ho rro r ,

o f ho rro rs ! p a r i a h dogs c los e b y who com p l et e th e ,

u nfi n i sh ed dest r u ct i o n o f th e body b y fi r e Our .

g u i de s a i d i t w a s ver y cost l y to b u r n — s eve n ,

r u p ees e i gh t an n a s ; b u t o u r co mp a n i on s a i d s h e
,

b u r n e d h er s erv a nt s fo r o n e r up ee O n l y ch i l dre n
.

a n d th e ver y poor a r e th rown i n to th e r i ver ; an d

s om et i m e s wh e n row i n g o n e com e s u p to a d e a d
bod y w i th h a l f a doze n c rows p erch ed o n i t One .

o ft en s ees p eo p l e t a ken dow n t o th e s i d e o f th e

s a c red st re a m t o d i e g a i n i ng th ereb y a d i rect e m
,

t r a n c e t o th e H i n du p a r a d i s e .

N ow w e row s l ow l y b a ck a n d th e r i vers i de i s st i l l
,

l i n ed w i th th e p i l gr i m s p r a yi n g ; a n d o u r g u i de s
“
p o i n t t o o n e c a l l i ng h i m a ho l y begg a r
,
And .

” “
w hy ho l y b egg a r ? B ec a u s e h e do es n o t b eg
’
h i s b re a d b u t get s i t b y s ub s cr i pt i o n
,
i s th e u n ,

exp ect ed a n swe r .

R et u r n i n g we take a t u rn t h rou gh th e b r a s s
,

baz a a r - n a rrow st reet s w i th o n l y o n e w i dth o f

,

s ton e abo u t th re e o r fo u r feet w i de s e p a r a t i n g th e

o pp os i t e ho u s es .I t i s m ost i n con ve n i en t t o m eet
a sac r ed cow i n th e l a n e s o f th e c i t y fo r yo u m u st ,

n eeds s qu e eze t i g ht l y t o th e wa l l ; fo r th e c ow
t a ke s h e r p l e a s u re poke s h er h e a d i n to b a z a a rs
, ,

open s doo rs an d w i n dows an d b egs h e r food f ro m

,
 B E NA R E S AN D TI I E B R A H I II I N S . 1 47

hou s e to ho u s e . It i s a mo st m er i to r i o u s a c t to
feed th e s a c red cows ; s o th e y st r a y a bo u t th e c i t y
a t wil l .

A n oth e r t e mp l e s t i l l rem a i n s to b e s een ; a n d

proc eed i n g o n o u r w a y w e soo n fi n d ou rs e lves i n
,

th e p a r a d i s e o f th e d esc e n d a n t s o f th e fa i th fu l
H a n um a n S o n o f th e W i n d th e R esc u e r o f t h e
, ,

pre c i ou s B r i d e o f R a m a who s e l egen d a r y sto r y

,

r u n s som eth i ng l i ke t h i s ! I t ch a n c ed on c e u p o n a
t i m e th a t th i s mo st m i ght y o f a p e s vo l u nt e ered t o
re sto re th e lo n g l o st S i t a to h e r so rrow i n g h u s
b a n d ; an d b e l i ev i ng th e b e a ut i f u l wom a n t o h a ve
b een k i dn a pp ed b y th e K i n g o f C e ylon h e b i ds ,

h i s S i m i a n s to co n st ru ct a b r i dge f rom I n d i a a c ro s s
th e n a rrow s e a . Wh e n th i s i s fi n i sh ed a com m a n d ,

i s g i ve n to c e a s e ; an d th e mon ke ys d ro p t h e m i ght y
ston es a t that ver y mom e nt .A n d eve n t o th i s d a y
a h u g e l i n e o f rock s co nt i n u es f ro m th e I s l a n d o f

L a nka to t h e H i m a l a ya Mo u nt a i n s H a n u m a n th en
.

swe e p s h i s t a i l on e tho u s a n d m i l es l o ng a rou n d

, ,

th e i s l a nd a n d th e n cont r a ct i n g i t fi n ds S i ta s a f e
, ,

a n d sou n d w i th a d a sh o f s u n l i ght i n h e r d r e a m
y
e yes . S o th e v a l i a n t H a n u m a n was e l ev a t ed to a
p l a ce i n th e H i n du h eaven an d h i s d e s ce n d a nt s
,

a r e b e loved o f go ds an d m en .

We a r e adv i s ed not t o e nt e r th e t emp l e w i thou t

prov i d i n g o u rs e l ves w i t h sweet s a n d gr a m from th e
ven de rs o n th e doo rst eps oth e rw i s e th e a p es wo u l d
,
1 48 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

b e d i s a gree a b l e p e rh a p s dang ero u s

,
Once i ns ide .
,

w e w i t n es s a c u r i o u s Spect a c l e ! up com e th e mo n
k e ys i n c rowds spr i n g i n g f rom th e l ove l y gree n
,

t r ee s bo u n d i n g tow a rd u s f rom t h e t emp l e p i n n a

,

c l es u nw i n d i n g th e i r l ong t a i l s f ro m th e c a rved ma r
,

b l e p i l l a rs c l i mb i n g th e s u rrou nd i ng wal l s a bove

,

o u r h e a d s a n d r e a ch i ng down fo r th e cont e nt s o f
,

th e t r a ys .O n e o l d ye l low mo nk e y ev i dent l y th i nks

we do n ot g ive o u t th e s ug a r t h i n gs fa s t e n ough ;
an d l i k e a fl a sh u p s et s th e d i sh fro m o u r h a n ds ,

s catt er i ng th e gr a i n s o n th e fl oor th e n p i ck i ng ,

t hem u p w i t h both h a nd s a n d e a t i ng th em Th e .

p r i est s a r e d i rt y a n d m i s er a b l e a n d deman d b a ck ,
!

”
Sh e e sh a l l i n a c l a m o r Th i s t emp l e i s ext rem e l y
.

s acr e d i n th e e ye s o f H i n d u s a n d c rowd s o f wo r ,

sh i ppe r s com e eve r y d a y to st r ew flowers to th e

i do l w i fe o f S i va th e godd e s s D u nga Th e wh i t e
,
.

flow ers o f th e t emp l e st r u n g o n th read s a r e pu t

, ,

a bout
y o u r n eck b y th e pr i est s an d a r e ext rem e l y ,

p rett y F l owers wh i t e a n d ye l l ow flo a t co nt i n u
.
, ,

a l l y i n r i ch m a s s es o f co lo r o n th e r i ver a n d a r e ,

car r i e d i n b a sk et s to t h row b e fo re th e i do l s i n
t em p l e s an d Sh r i n es Th e H i n d u s w i th whom
.
,

th e p r i n c i p a l v i rt u e co n s i st s i n a l l ow i n g th e ver y
n ast y wat er o f th e Gan ge s to e nt er th e i r mo u th s ,

a n d who wash th em s e l ve s an d aft erward s th e i r

c l oth e s i n i t s wat ers i n d evot i o n to D u nga st i l l
, ,

have n o i d ea o f c l ean l i n es s Th e s t re et s ar e f u l l.
1 50 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

w i s e b ras s o r c lay sm al l a n d great al i ke are d i s

, ,

p l a yed o u th e lo ng sh e lve s wh i ch f ro n t an d l i n e
th e Shops H er e i s a c rowd o f p i l g r i m s m a k i n g
.

t h e i r b a rg a i n s an d de p a rt i n g w i th t h e i r pu rchas es
,

w rapp ed u p i n a p i ec e o f b row n p a p er Th e fa .

vo r i t e d e i t s e em s to b e G a n esh th e sh rewd an d
y ,

c u n n i ng e l e p han t go d o r perhap s K r i sh n a th e fro l

, ,

i c s o me p a rt n e r o f th e m i l km a i ds F ew i do l s a r e .

eve r so l d o f B rahm a th e u n i ve rs a l S p i r i t who a t

, ,

p res en t i t i s s a i d i s o n l y wo rsh i pp ed i n two p l ace s

, ,

i n I nd i a .Th e wo r k o f c re a t i o n fi n i sh ed th e H i n ,

d u s p re fe r to d evot e th e i r g i ft s a n d p r a yers to p ro

p i t i a t e th e two rem a i n i n g pow ers th a t b e — th e ,

dest ro yi n g S i va an d V i sh n u th e p r e s e rve r .

Th e Go l de n T emp l e i s go l d o n l y s o fa r as th e
Sh e a th i ng o f th e p ago d a p i n n a c l es a r e co n cern ed .

N ear b y i s th e We l l o f K now l edge — th e p l ace ,

“
wh e re S i va h i m s e l f i s s a i d to have h a d th e b a d
”
t a s te t o r e s i de I t i s a sm al l s qu a r e b u i ld i n g
.
,

swarm i n g w i th d i rt y fa k i rs a n d S l eek B r a h m i n s .

Cows a r e st r a yi n g a bo u t a t w i l l a n d w i th e r ed ,

h e a p s o f flowe rs st rew n everywh ere m ak e th e p l a c e ,

th e a i r a n d th e s u r ro u n d i n gs al m o st u n end u r a b l e
,
.

I n form er d a ys t h e devo u t th rew i n t h e we l l o ffer

i ngs o f co i n s p i c e an d s i lver
,
Th e p r i est s i n o r
,
.
,

der to profi t b y th es e g i ft s o r i g i n a l l y em p lo yed a

,

d i ver b u t n o w h a ve d i sp e n s ed w i th h i s s e rv i c es b y
,

roofi ng th e we l l w i th C opp er i n o rder to rak e i n

 B E NA R E S AND TH E B R A H M I NS . 15 I

th e Sh eke l s mor e co nve n i e n t l y an d s u re l y ; a n d s o

“ ’
th e p oo r d e i t y l i ke Moth e r H ubb a rd s dog
, g et s ,

”
no n e .
O n l e a v i ng th e t emp l e t h e wo rsh i ppers
h a ve a c u sto m o f s o u nd i n g th e h u ge b e l l s u spended
b y a ch a i n i n eve ry t em p l e A ft e r c lo s e l y qu e s
.

t i o n i n g o u r H i n d u gu i d e a s t o th e m ean i n g o f th i s ,

h e fi n a l l y m a n a ged t o e x p l a i n i t i n th i s w a y wh i ch ,

I though t ver y am u s i ng ! S a h i b r i n gs b e l l ; that i s

to s a y Goo d -b y Go dd es s no w I go ; p l e a s e e x
, , ,

c u s e m e a l l my s i n s .

A t th e C ow Temp l e we were on l y a l l owed to

e n te r o n e st e p i n th e b u i l d i ng — q u i t e e no u gh we ,

s oo n d i s cov e r ed A mo r e r i d i c u lou s s i gh t o n e c a n
.

n o t i ma g i n e Th i rt y cows a r e ke p t i n th e t emp l e
.

co u rt ; th e y wal k a bo u t poke th e i r h e a d s cu r i o u s l y
,

i nto th e m ost ho l y Sh r i n e s o f S i v a exa m i n e th e c a rv ,

i n gs l i ke co n n o i s s eu rs an d th e who l e p l a c e i s noth
,

i ng l es s th a n a n i l l -kept st a b l e Th e p l ace s i m p l y
.

r eek ed w i th h orr i d sm e l l s a n d w a s n ot i mproved b y

,

th e c rowd o f fa k i rs a n d m u ch sm e a r ed b egg a rs co n -

t i n u a l l y st r e a m i n g i n w i th pu re st go l d wr eath s o f

m a r i go ld s a n d wh i t est t emp l e flowe rs to deco r a t e th e

s en s e l es s u g l y i do l s
, Th e y al l rec e i ve a m a rk fro m
.

th e B r a hm i n , a s i g n th at th e y have v i s i t ed an d pe r
fo rm ed d evot i o n s i n th e t em p l e I t i s gen e r a l l y a .

ro u n d d a b o f r ed p a i n t o r wh i t e j u st between th e
, ,

b rows ; and i n fa ct we n o l o n ge r n ot i c e th e war

, ,

pa i n t o f th e — i t i s s o u n i versal Eve r y .
 152 A GI RL ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

man w ho wo rsh i ps V i sh n u i s p a i n t ed w i th pe r
d i l
’

p e n c u a r s treak s b etwe e n th e e yes S iv a s d i s .

c i p l e s ar e marked hor i zo nt a l l acro s s th e f oreh e d

y a .

Marr i ed wom e n a l l h a ve a red pa i nt e d mark wh ere

t h e ha i r part s i n f ro nt b es i de s cast e -m a rks I n th i s
,
.

co u nt ry th e wom e n we a r h u g e n o s e -r i ngs -th e M a ,

h o me t a n s a go l d st ud m e re l y o n o n e s i de o f th e
“
no s e wh i ch R u d yard K i p l i n g s a ys t a ke s th e p l a c e
,

o f th e We st er n p a t ch i n d r a w i n g att en t i o n to t h e
c u rve o f t h e n ost r i l ; th e i r e a rs a r e p i erc e d w i th
f rom two to twe l ve r i ngs l o a d ed w i th sto n es ; arm
l et s a n d bangl e s i n heavy s u cces s i o n h i de th e a rm s ;
a nd a nk l et s p ut o n i n ch i l dhood wh i ch can n ever ,

b e t a ke n o ff af ter ke e p th e ank l es sm a l l
,
.

We are to l d th a t J a n u a r y an d F eb ru a r y ar e th e
gre a t mo n th s fo r r i ver s a n d th e worsh i p o f th e
i do l s
. Th e H i n d u go d s go t o s l e ep i n t h e hot
s e a so n ,
wh en th e i r t em p l e s a r e d es e rt ed Now .

th e y h a ve j u st w a k ed u p a n d ar e r ead y t o open ,

co u rt a s i t we re Th e i r ch i e f god B r a h m a th e y
, .
, ,

be l i eve i s n ow i n p r i so n H e w a s s o ver y b a d that

.

th e oth er de i t i es h e l d a co u n c i l a n d d ec r ee d to i m
p r i so n h I m .Th e t r i u n e d i v i n i t i e s ar e s o u n e x
c e pt i o n a l l y bad th a t o n e c a n n o t r e a l l y b l a m e th e

peop l e fo r i m i t a t i n g th e m B r a hm i n t em p l e s a r e
.

n ot m ean t fo r l a rg e g a th e r i n gs ; t h e y a r e sm a l l ,

co n t a i n i n g on l y a sh r i n e s u rro u n ded b y a n i n c lo s ed
c o u rt . Th i s i s b ecau s e th e d evo u t o n l y co m e an d
154 A C I RL S
’
WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

C H A PT E R X .

AT L U C K N O W A N D C A WN P O R E .

Fe b r u a ry 6 .

T i s b ree zy I am wear i n g my c oat over a b l u e

.

woo l l e n frock L u ckn ow n ow c a n fe e l c o l d

.
,

a t l e a st i n co nt r a s t to th e g l are a n d he a t o f B e
nar es Th e t r yi ng p a rt Of th i s c l i mat e i s i t s fi ck l e
.

th ermom et e r wh i ch e a r l y i n th e m o r n i n g i s ver y
,

l ow an d g rad u a l l y go e s up u nt i l m i ds u m m er h eat
,

i s reach ed a t n oo n o n l y to s camp e r dow n a g a i n a t

,

’
s u n s et W e a rr i ved l a st n i gh t a t t e n o c l ock a n d
.
,

h a ve s ee n n oth i ng o f t h e p l a c e o r peop l e except ,

t h e dhob i e wh o c a m e fo r my c l oth e s th i s m or n i ng ,

a n d who l ooked a s i f a good l au n dr y so a k i ng wo u l d

do h i s o n e d i rt y g a rm ent good Th e proc es s cal l ed

.

”
w a sh i n g i n t h e East i s n o t a co st l y a ffa i r Fo u r .

ru pee s i s th e p r i c e — n ot pe r dozen b ut p er h u n
, ,

d red . I have c a ught m e l a n cho l y g l i mps es o f e n

l i g ht e n me n t a s to th e o r i g i n a l c a u s e o f u nm en dab l e
r ent s b utto n s demo l i sh ed a n d th e gen e r a l r u i n
, ,

wh i ch i nvar i a b l y en s u e s f rom c o n fi d i n g fi n e l i n e n
to th e m erc i e s o f an I n d ian dhob i e A t som e.
 A T L U cR N o W AND CA WN P O R E . 155

u n exp ect ed s yl va n r i ver s i de yo u com e s u dde n l y

o n a l i n e o f d u sk y fo rm s eac h be n d i ng v i o l e nt l y ,

fo rw a rd th e n b a ckw a rd p o u nd i n g som e fl a pp i n g
, ,

vest u r e o n th e rou g h sto n es o f the st r e a m I h a ve .

co p i ed t h e fo l low i n g wr i tt e n S i g n f rom my doo r

p a n e l i n th e hot el — a s cal e o f rates wh i ch v a r i es
,

s e l dom a n d ma y b e sa i d to b e fa i r l y ch a r a ct e r i st i c
,

o f th e best i n n s !

B o a r d a n d L o dg i n g 5 ru p ees pe r d a y
.

I n d i a n s e r v a n ts se p a r a te r o o m
, 5
(6

N a ti v e serv a n ts fo o d p e r d a y
, ,
2

4 a nn a s q u a rter da y.

P unk a h w a ll a h
-
, p e r da y 3
(C

p e r ni g ht 3
D h o bie , p e r hu nd re d 4 ru p ees .

C o o lies t o c a rry b a g g a g e t o an d fr o m r a il
way st a ti o n 1 a nn a .

S t a bli ng p e r mo n th
, 8 ru p ees .

O n c e i n L u cknow i t go es w i tho ut s a yi ng th a t
,

’
o u a r e at H i l l s H ot e l a qu ee r a ffa i r i ndeed fo r
y ,

a hote l ! on e l o ng co l on n a ded ver a n d a ; beh i n d th a t

a r e o u r S l ee p i ng -room s o n l
y sh u t o ff f ro m ,
th e gr a ss

l es s s u n -b a ked com p o u nd b y a n o l d t r a n s p a rent

, , ,

b a mboo c u rt a i n w h i ch b a re l y h a ngs togeth er o ut

,

s i d e a p a i r o f doo rs a l w a ys O p en a n d wh i ch I h a ve ,

d i scovered w i l l n ot lock The ho u s e s eem s a qu a rt e r.

o f a m i l e l o ng b y o n e roo m dee p ; th e re i s no o ffic e

o r c l e rks o r d esk to b e s een Yo u sho ut down th e .

Ope n p i a zz a fo r p a pe r a n d i nk a n d soon e r o r l a t e r ,

a d u sky fi g u re oc cu p i es th e p erspect i ve o f th e co l
1 56 WI N TE R I ND I A
’
A C I RL S IN .

u mn e d quart er m i l e of
p i a zz a a n d pro d uce s th em
,

f rom so m ewh e r e H ot e l l i f e i n I n d i a i s a s yst em

.

o f sho ut i ng O ut s i d e my door i s a mot l e y c rowd o f

.

A fgh a n s , — m e n f rom K a b u l an d L a hore th e N i m ,

ro ds o f N o rther n I n d i a — who h a ve b rought th e i r

,

f u r r y w i n t er m erch a n d i s e to p a l m o ff o n th e t o u r
i s t s n ow g a th ered o n the w i de ver a n d a t o s p end th e
h ou r s a ft er t i ffi n rec l i n i ng i n l o ng b a mboo ch a i r s
, ,

w i th a s em i c i rc l e o f n a t i ves squ a t t i ng b eh i n d knot t e d

m u s l i n b u nd l es r ead y a t th e l e a st e n co u r a gem ent to
,

p ro d u c e a n yth i ng i n th e t a xi d erm i s t s l i n e f rom a

’

H i m a l a ya f o x to a B eng a l t i ge r Th i s i s a g r e a t
.

co nven i en c e I t i s a shade coo l er i n yo u r room

.
,

p erhap s a n d yo u h a ve o n l y t o p u l l u p th e c r a ck
,

l i ng c u rt a i n an d s i t th er e b eyo n d t h e h e a t a n d
,

wor r y o f th e b a z a a rs A s l i gh t s i g n a l st a rt s fo r
.

w a rd th e who l e pack wh o l a y th e i r t reas u re s a t

,

y o u r f eet ; an d w i thou t a n
y t ro u b l e yo u j u dge a n d
c r i t i c i s e a n d th e n s e l ect a n equ i v a l en t t o th e S i l ver
,

r upee s th row n dow n o n th e floor wh i ch a r e qu i ck l y ,

t ran s ferr ed t o th e m ass o f d i rt y r a gs a ro u n d th e

A fgh a n s wa i st an d p a ys h i s ret u r n j o u rn ey to th e
’

s now s .

Fe brua ry 7 .

H ere lies H en ry L a wrence ,

W ho tried t o d o his d uty ”

.

Th es e two s i mp l e l i n e s o n t h e gr a ve o f th e E n g
l i sh ge n er a l s ee m t o s u m u p fo r al l th e b rave m e n
 58 WI N TE R I ND I A
’
1 A CI RL S IN .

arm s to th e S epoy m u t i n e e r s l e a v i ng o n l y fi ft e e n
,

h u n dre d so l d i e rs w i t h s eve r a l h u n d red wom en an d

,

ch i l dre n t o s u st a i n d u r i ng s eve r a l m on th s o f a n
,

I nd i a n s u m m er th e f r a i l r a m p a rt s thrown u p hast i l y
a ro u n d th e R e s i de nc y a g a i n st a t e rr i b l e f o e
, t en ,

t i m e s more n u m ero u s th a n t h em s e lve s O n e i s aw ed .

and h u sh e d i n to s i l e n ce wh i l e w a l k i ng th ro u g h th e
s ce n es o f th a t aw f u l so rrow an d s u ffe r i ng that c a m e
to th e s e poo r c re a t u re s i n that i mp rov i s ed fo rt res s .

Th e p i tt ed wal l s b e a r th e t r a ce s o f th e exp l os i o n o f
sh el l s a n d can n o n -b a l l s wh i ch c a m e w i th i n c e s san t
,

r u mb l i ngs f rom th e reb e l camp j u s t ac ro s s th e ,

flowe r g arden s o f th e R e s i de n cy an d m i n g l ed w i th
-
,

th e cr i e s o f th e wou n de d a n d th e m o a n s o f t h e
weep i ng w i ves a n d moth ers Th e s l i ght e s t expo s
.

u re o f th e wom e n a n d ch i l d ren a t th e w i n dows w a s

fo l lowed b y a de a th shot f ro m a sh a r p Shoot er
-
And -
.

a ll n i g ht l o ng p roces s i o n s o f mo u rn i n g fr i en d s
fi l e d o u t u n der cove r o f th e d a rkn es s to th e l i tt l e
e n c l os u r e b y t h e chu rch — wh i ch b e cam e th a t s u m
,
.

me r i n p l ace o f t h e s mooth g r ee n l awn a g re a t

!

, ,

“
m ou n ded ac re t i l l thos e who h a d fou ght th e
,

goo d fi g ht a n d kept th e fa i th fa r o u t n u m b ered

, ,

t ho s e s t i l l fight i n g Toward s th e e n d o f S ept em

.

b e r ever y h O p e se em e d l o st Th e a s s a i l a nt s had
.

gradu a l l y approach ed s o n e a r th e p l a c e th a t o n l y
a fe w acres o f th e flower p l ant ed l a wn st r et ch e d
-

b etween tho s e de sperat e b r utal l ee r i ng faces an d

, ,
 A T L U CA N O PV A N D
’
CA IVN P O R E .
1 59

a h a nd fu l o f d i sco u r a ged so l d i ers . S i r H en r y L a w

ren c e was de a d st ru ck b y a Sh e l l i n a m om en t
,

o f b r a ve ex p os u re to fi r e ; b u t a s n ews o f h i s d e a t h

wo u l d com e a s a Sho ck t o th e al read y sh a tt ered

ho p e s o f t h e so l d i ers n o o n e h a d d a red t o m e nt i o n
,

i t u nt i l d a ys a ft e r Cho l era a n d v a r i o lo i d e a ch d a y
.

c a r r i e d o ff n ew v i ct i m s and th e n t h e p rov i s i on s
,

th re a t e n ed fa m i n e ; b u t th e e n d had com e . One

d a y th e w i f e o f a S cot ch s e rge a n t s u dde n l y c r i ed
,

o u t th a t s h e h e a rd i n t h e d i st a n ce t h e so u n d o f a

“
bagp i pe p l a yi ng Th e C a m p b e l l s a r e com i ng
, .No
doub t eve r y on e thou ght s h e h a d go n e ma d u nt i l
, ,

th e can n o n a d i n g a n n ou n c ed th e a pp roach o f t h e i n
v i n c i bl e H i g h l an d er s Th er e w a s o n e m om e n t o f
.

i n a b i l i t y t o r e a l i ze th e g lo r i o u s de l i v e r a n ce ; i n th e
n ext ever y o n e sho ut ed a n d d a n ced fo r j o y an d
, ,

wru n g th e h a n d s o f th e s e g reat s u n -b u rn ed m en ,

a n d pr a i s ed th e G reat D e l i vere r th a t th e C am p b e l l s

h a d com e .

M u t i n y d a ys a r e st i l l v i v i dl y r em emb e red i n
I nd i a . Th re e so l d i ers were b e i ng d r i ven i n a c a rt
b y a n a t i ve co a ch m a n tow a rd C a wn p o re soo n a ft e r
t h e m u t i n y A s t h e y were n e a r i ng t h e c i t y th e n a
.

t i ve m a de a remark i n H i n du st a n i o f wh i ch th e,

“
sol d i er s o n l y u n derstood th e wo rd C a wnpo r e .

Th i s n a m e u tt e red b y th e n a t i ve st ru ck s u ch a t en
de r cord o f m emo ry i n th e m i nd s o f th e so l d i e rs ,

that i n a f ren zy the n an d there t he y han g ed th e m an

I 60 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

t o a t ree b y t h e roads i de Th e i nt erest att a ch e d

.

t o t h e R e s i d e n cy at L u ckn ow comp l et e l y ove r

sh a dow s a l l oth e r des i re s i n r e g a rd to S i g ht
s ee i n g .

Th e c a p i t a l o f O u d ei s c a l l ed th e C i t y o f Pa l a c es .

Th e arch i t ect u re i s a s tr a ng e m ixt u re o f t h e Moo r

i sh an d t h e R e n a i s s a n ce mo re l i ke F re n ch s t r u c
,

t u res a d th e p i n k a d wh i t e p rett i n e s s o f t h e
n - n -

C i rqu e d H i v e r
’
I n fa ct we d i d not v i s i t th e i m
.
,

p e r i a l abo d es a t a l l I t w a s exa spe r a t i n g e nou g h

.

to dr i ve b y ; an d eve n to com e i n co nt a ct w i t h th em
f rom th e c a rr i a g e w i n dow w a s u n p l e a s a n t A com .

p i l a t i o n ofco lo n n a des o f arche s a n d m i n a ret s a

, ,

h e a p i ng u p o f dom es s u rmo u nt ed b y u mb re l l a s ,

w i th a fa ca d e o f co n fect i o n er y r e j o i c e i n th e nam e ,

o f t h e P a l a c e o f C h a nt a r M a n z i l A n oth er pal a c e .
,

“ ”
a l i tt l e Lo uvre i n st u cco fo rm s an e n o rmo u s
,

s qu a r e o f o r n a m e nt a l p l a st e r ; i t cost m i l l i o n s o f
mo n e y a n d w a s th e ro ya l r es i de n c e o f th e l a st
,

k i ng of
Oude I t s eem s th a t t h e pr i n c es o f O u de
.

po s ses s ed a m a n i a fo r b u i l d i n g ; a n d t h e r e s u l t i s a
co l l ect i on o f p a l a ce s g a rde n s tom b s an d m osqu e s
, , , ,

—b a d examp l e s o f ever st l e o f arch i t ect u re o n

y y
’
t h e earth s s u r fa c e I n th e n a t i ve qu art e r yo u a r e
.
,

i n a t r u e l i tt l e M oor i sh c i t y w i th l o ng st r a i ght , ,

s t reet s low ho u s es w i th g rat e d w i ndows i do l s

, ,

f res co ed i n fantast i c co lo rs o n th e B r a h m i n t em
p l es an d th e des ce n dant s o f m u t i no u s S epoys
,
1 62 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

go o n to th e a rt i s a n qu a rt er an d s e e th e c r a ft to
wh i ch Lu ckn ow owe s i t s great est fa m e ! I h a ve re a d
a ve ry ac c u rat e d es cr i p t i o n w hi ch s a ys ! Go l d an d
,

s i lve r w i re d raw i ng w i th i t s com p l em e n tar y t rade s

,

o f go l d an d s i lver lace brocades a n d emb ro i d er y

, , ,

e mp l oys abo u t o n e t ho u s a n d art i san s i n Lu cknow .

Th e bas i s o f the s e fa b r i c s i s go l d s i l ve r o r s i lver , ,

g i l t w i re dr wn o u t b h n d — rath er b th t ex
a
y a o r
y a

t r a h a n d po s se s se d b y eve r y I n d i a n th e foot — t o ,

an ext rem e t h i n n es s ; som et i m e s u s ed ro u n d at ,

o ther t i m es flatte n e d o u t i nto fi n e m et a l r i bbo n s o r ,

c u t i nto sp a ng l es o f v a r i ou s patt er n s ! a r up e e can

b e drawn o u t to e i ght h u n dred yard s o f w i re Th es e .

p ro du ct s are fa r s up er i o r to an yth i ng o f th e k i n d
p ro d u c ed i n E u rop e b y m ach i n e r y ; th e w i r e i s us e d
l a rge l y i n A hm edabad B e nares a n d i n d e ed al l ove r
, ,

I n d i a i n th e m a n u fa ct u r e o f k i n cob b roc a d es Th e .

p r i n c i pal k i nds o f l ac e m ad e at L u ck now f rom

go l d a n d s i l ve r w i r e are cal l e d l a c/WE Rel /a ba t n , ,

I n l a c hk a th e war p i s o f s i lv er -g i l t
'
'

and Zo es .
,

s t r i p s wov e n w i t h a woo f o f S i l k ; i t i s o ft en
,

st a mp ed w i th p a tte rn s i n h i gh re l i e f a n d i s mo st l y ,

u s ed fo r edg i ng t u rban s an d p ett i coat s K a la b a t u .

co n s i st s o f s t r i ps o f g i l d e d s i lve r tw i st ed sp i r a l l y
ro u n d th read s o f ye l l ow S i lk a n d then wove n i n to a
,

r i bbo n s i m i l a r to l a c hk a I n l a i s th e woo f i s o f w i re
.
,

an d th e warp o f s i l k Th i s i n d u st ry re a pp e a r s i n
.

th e sho e an d s l i pper ba z aar wh ere b eau t i fu l em ,

 A T L (J G/( N O W AND CA WN P ORE .
I 63

b ro i d ered ve lvet a n d l eath e r s l i p per s ma y b e p u r

ch a sed The n a t i ve k i n gs o f O u d e proh i b i t ed th e
.

embro i de r y o f s l i p p ers w i t h a n yth i n g b u t p u re go l d

w i re bu t th e b a z a a r s o f L u ck now are n ow m a i n l y
,

”
fi l l ed w i th p i nchb eck f r a u d s f rom D e l h i .

O n th e st re et s yo u m eet ho st s o f wom e n l o i t e r
i n g i d l i ng a n d Sho p p i ng
, ,
wear i ng a d r a p e r y he l d
,

t ogether t i ght l y t o co n ce a l t h e fe a t u r es b u t o fte n ,

a l l ow i n g t h e n eck an d sh ou l d er s to a p p ear u n c o v

ered . Th es e wom e n ar e n eve r occ up i ed i n th e

’
s a l e s Th e n a t i o n s shopke e p er s a r e a l w a ys m e n
.
‘

d i spo s i ng a l i k e sweet m eat s an d fu rbe l ows accord ,

i n g to th e i n fl exi b l e c u stom s o f th e E a st .

The great e st th e r i ch e st baza a r i s l e ft u n t i l th e

,

l ast —the fa mo u s ch o a k o r s i lv e r baz a ar o f L u ck

, ,

n ow wh e r e th e n at i ve m erch ant s s i t i n th e o p e n
,

doo rs o f th e i r shop s w i th S i lve r b a n g l e s a n d eve ry

,

so rt o f rou g h an d fi n e j ewe l r y spre a d o u t b e fo r e

them Th e s i lve r k i ngs ru n ou t to o u r c a r r i a ge
.
,

an d sm i l i n gl y s a la a m u s an i nv i t a t i o n t o stop an d
b uy . W e st ep ove r th e g u tt er r u n n i n g be fo re
th e s hO p dow n th e e n t i re st reet an d p e rch u p o n ,

th e sto n e e nt r a n c e w i th o u r fe e t o n th e s i d ew a lk
,
.

I t i s n ot a s p a c i o u s sho p b u t th e ch a rm an d ,

n ove l t y o f i t o n e c a n o n l y fi n d i n th e E a st Th e .

s to n e p l a t form j u st r a i s ed from th e st reet a fe w

f eet o n wh i ch w e s i t i s l i ter a l l y c a r p et ed w i th th e
, ,

S i l ve r j ewe l r y i n Sh i n i ng he a ps wh i ch i s so l d fo r
,
 1 64 WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A CI RL S IN .

th e we i gh t i n r u pees w i t h f ro m s i x to e i ght an nas

,

add i t i o n a l v a r yi ng a c co rd i n g t o th e fi n en es s o f
,

th e workm an sh i p Th e s hop i s o n l y a fe w f eet

.

square Op en to the a i r a n d o n l y l arge e no u gh fo r

, ,

t h e H i n d u o u rs el ve s an d th e s i l ve r
, ,
B eh i n d th e .

p l at fo rm i s a n u nknown d a rk w i n dow l es s r eg i o n , , ,

i n wh i ch S h a m La l l keep s h i s t re a s u r e s It re .

qu i res th e p a t i e nt sp e n d i n g o f al mo st a n hou r t o
i nd u c e th e ma n to Show u s h i s b est wo rk A l l th e .

o rd i nar y w a re s do not e nt i c e u s ; s o h e fi n a l l y d i s
a ppe a r s to h i s l a i r a n d b r i ngs o u t o f h i s s t rong bo x
,

th e de l i cat e s i lve r th i n g s that we s e e i n K en s i n g to n

Museum .

C A W N P O R E, Fe bru a r y 8 .

N ext d a y w e t a k e th e O u de an d R o h i l k u n d Ra i l “

w a y to C a wn po r e sac r ed to th e m emo r y o f t he
,

mut i n y wh ere ,
ou r h eart m e l t s i n p i t y fo r what
v

wa s . A st r a n ge fa s c i n a t i o n fo r th e ho rr i b l e l ead s
o n e to m ake a p i l gr i m a ge to G en e r a l VVh e e l e r s ’

c a mp a n d th e m as s a c re Ghau t o f N a n a S a h i b ; a n d
th e fo l low i n g i n a fe w wo rds i s wh a t h i st ory h a s
to t e l l o f th e deepest d a rkes t t raged y o f modern ,

t i m es .

Wh e n th e m u t i n y b rok e o u t S i r H u gh Wh e e l e r , ,

who com m an ded C a wnpore ret i red w i th s even h u n ,

dred E u ro p ean me n wom en ch i l d re n a n d two h u n

, , ,

d red so l d i ers i nto a co up l e o f b u n galows hast i l y

,

fo rt i fi ed an d arm ed w i th s e v e ral ca n n o n H er e a t . .
1 66 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

to rt u re d b y o ccas i o na l l evel l i n g o f th e r eb e l g u n s
at th e w i n dows th ro ugh th e roo f A ft erward a .

ban d o f S e p oys r u sh ed i nt o th e b u i l d i n g cu t t i n g ,

dow n th e f r i g ht e n e d wo m e n r i ght a n d l e ft u n t i l ,

m a dden e d b y t e r ro r th ey ru sh ed o u t o f th e p l ac e ,

f o l lowe d b y th e ye l l i n g H i n d u s S ee i ng a we l l b e .

l o ng i n g t o o n e o f th e p r et t y E ng l i sh V i l l as o f th i s
i l l -fat e d s p ot th e y t h rew th em s e lves i n p re fe rr i n g
, ,

’
d eath i n that w a y Nan a S a h i b s m en c l o s i n g i n
.
,

upo n th em c a rr i ed t h e de a d bod i es o f th e m u r
,

d er ed wo m e n a n d th rew th e m i n w i th th e l i v i n g ;
a n d wh e n th e E ng l i sh so l d i e r s cam e w i th r e l i e f
t w ent y fo u r ho u r s aft e r ward th ey fo u n d a n u n r e
-
,

cogn i z a b l e p a l p i t a t i n g m as s o f h u m a n b e i ngs — th e
,

l ivi ng a n d the de d a — m i n g l e d t ogeth er i n tha t

p l ac e. To d a y th e E ng l i sh have p l a n t ed f r a gr a n t
b ed s o f ros es a n d sweet E ng l i sh flow er s a bou t th e
s cen e o f m as sac re ; a reve r e nt i al h u sh p ervades th e
g a rde n s th e t r ee s a n d l eave s r u st l e very ge nt l y
, ,

and th e b i rd s s i n g so ft l y, - fo r
th e p l a c e wh ere on
o u stan d i s ho l y gro u n d
y .

H ow f r esh th e m emo r y o f th e m ut i n y st i l l i s i n
I n d i a ! Ever ybod y t a l k s abo u t i t a n d i t s ho rror s ,

’
ar e i n ever ybo dy s mo u th S u ch t a l es a n d hap
.

p e n i n g s ! S u ch m i s er y ! M i s s S to l d m e to -d a y .

o f th e m st er i o u s cake s s e n t to ever n at i ve l
y y s o

d i e r b e fo r e th e m u t i n y th e m e a n i n g o f wh i ch h a s
,

n eve r b ee n exp l a i n ed to th i s da y . A sto r y i s to l d

 A T L U CK NO W AND CA WN P OR E . 16 7

of a fam i l y h i d i ng i n som e ch a ff ; whe n th e S epo ys

cam e u p th e y su spect ed som eth i ng an d pok i ng
, ,

i nto th e gr a i n w i th swo rd s d i scovered th e poo r

,

c reat u res who w er e k i l l ed a l l exc ept a g i r l o f

, ,

s event ee n ye a r s S h e was r e l e a se d o n co nd i t i o n
.

“
that s h e wou l d r epe a t th e Mah om etan c reed A l ,

”
lah ho A kbar ,
wh i ch Sh e al mo st u nco n sc i o u s l y
did . S he w a s th en de l i vere d as a S l ave to th e
h i gh e st ge n er a l a n d s en t to M ecc a W h er e s h e wa s
, ,

known b y th e n a m e o f S ara B egu m A fte r twe l ve .

y e a rs i n th e har em s h,
e som et i m es cam e o u t an d
l i ved w i th E u rop ean s fo r a l i tt l e t i m e t h en r e ,

t u r n ed t o D e l h i o r Laho re an d b ecam e app a rent l y

,

a M a hom et a n a g a i n No o n e k nows w h o s h e w a s
.
,

an d s h e re fu se d to a n swer a n y qu est i o n s b u t i n ,

s i st ed s he st i l l rem a i n ed a C h r i st i a n an d co u l d ,

do mo r e goo d b y ab i d i n g i n th e ho u s e of u nb el i e f
than ret u r n i n g to c i v i l i z at i o n .
1 68 WI N TE R I ND I A
’
A C I RL S IN .

C H A PT E R X I .

A G RA AN D T H E T A J MA H A L .

A G RA , Fe bru a ry 1 0 .

I
T ha s b e e n i n th e a i r fo r days F lo a t i n g b i t s .

o f t a l k co m e t o o u r e a r s a n d th e a l l r ep e a t
y ,

“
so ft l y a l mo st r eve re n t l y
,
Th e T a j ,
Fo r s ever a l .

d a ys t rave l l er s h a ve had an exc i t ed a i r ; som eth i ng

i s n ear b rood i ng ove r t h e f ut u r e - s om e gr eat p r e s
, ,
v

e n c e i s a bo u t Eve r y o n e i s h a st e n i n g to th e ma g
.

n et th e c l i m ax t h e g l o ry o f A gra ; i t s eem s th e
, ,

great p re -em i n en t an d al l -a b so rb i n g spot to wh i ch

th e who l e c reat i o n o f tou r i st s m ove S o to d a y .
,

S u nday — a t r u e s u n s da b r i’
ght i nt e n s e l b r i gh t
, y , y ,

an d wo n dro u s l y cal m — w e v i s i t t h e g lo r i ou s tomb

,

wh i ch S hah J ehan b u i l ded as a m at ch l e s s mo n u

m en t t o h i s l ove fo r A rj a man d .

A ft e r th ree m i l es o f d u st y road s an d d r y grass ,

l es s fi el ds w e r each th e J u m n a a n d stop b e fo re a
, ,

M oor i sh gat eway w i th wh i t e dom e l i ke c rown s o ver

, ,
-

th e a rch es ; a n d l ook ! yo u stan d b reath l es s w i th th e ,

Taj M a hal h i dde n u n t i l n o w b e fo r e yo u

,
Th rou gh ,
.

th e t al l archway st retch e s m an y fee t o f c l ear wat e r ,

 1 70 A GI RL ’
S WI I V TE R IN I ND I A .

wo u l d wo n d er how a n y e a rth l y m e n cou l d a c c o m

p l i s h i t i n a s i ng l e c e nt u r y o r ever s u cc e ed i n,
do
i n g i t at al l . I co u l d t e l l yo u ther e i s a g a rd en
“
al l about th e T a j wh er e m en S i t an d h ear th e
,

b u lb u l s i ng i n g to th e ros e a n d t a l k o f A rj a man d ,
.

an d l ove a n d d e a th A n d yo u s e ek t he st i l l n es s
.

an d re p os e o f th e w i n d i ng p a ths an d th e a c re s o f
cho i c est flow e rs an d l et t h em a l l com e i nto yo u r
,

l i fe t o swe et e n a n d r e f r esh i t
,
I t i s t r u e yo u get .

wh a t i n s p i r a t i o n yo u b r i n g ! com e her e i n th e mood

fo r re c e i v i n g good and yo u fi n d i t ; b ut yo u m u s t
,

b e i n s ym p a th y w i th th e h i d den thou ght exp res s ed

i n the m arb l e fo r a vers e o n t h e e nt r a n c e s a ys
, ,

O n l y the p ure i n he a rt sh a ll enter i nt o the g a rden s of God .

To r e a l i ze th e de ep sweet n e s s of i t al l t o m ak e
,

yo u th e po et i c l i ght s an d Sh a dows I qu ot e S i r
see ,

’
E dw i n A rno l d s p er fect wo rd -et ch i ng O f t h e gar .

d e n h e says
“
Th e garden h elp s th e t om b a s th e tomb d i g n i fi e s ,

th e g a rden I t i s s u ch a n o rder l y w i l de rn es s o f r i ch
.

veget a t i o n a s cou l d o n l y b e h ad i n A s i a b road fl a g s ,

o f b a n a n a b e l t i n g t h e dark tangl e o f ban an an d

y
bamboo w i th th e wh i t e p a vem ent s gl eam i n g c ro s s
,

w i s e th ro ugh th e ve rd u re Y et i f th e T a j ro s e am i d
.

s a n ds o f a d rear y d e se rt th e l ove l y e d i fi c e wo u l d
,

b e a u t i fy th e wast e a n d t u r n i t i nto a t e n de r parab l e

,

o f th e deso l a t i o n o f death a n d th e power o f l ove ,

 A GR A AND TH E TA] MAHAL . 171

wh i ch i s st ro n ge r t han death . Yo u p ac e ro u n d th e
fo u r s i d e s o f th e m i l k -wh i t e mo n u m ent pau s i ng to ,

obs erve th e g lor i o u s p ro s p ec t ove r th e I n d i an p l a i n s

comman d e d fro m th e p l at fo rm o n th a t fa ce wh e re
J u m n a wash es th e foot o f t h e wa l l I t s m a g n i t ud e
.

asto u nd s . Th e p l i nth o f t he Taj i s ove r o n e h u n

d red ya rds each w a y an d i t l i ft s i t s go l d e n p i n n a c l e
,

two h u n dred a d ort y fi v e f e et i nto t h e s ky F ro m

n f -
.

a d i stan c e th i s l ov el y an d a e r i a l dom e s i t s th e re ,

fo re a bove t h e ho r i z o n l i k e a ro u nd e d c l o u d
, .

“
A n d h a v i ng p a ced abo u t i t an d sat u rat e d t h e
,

m i n d w i t h i t s ext rem e a n d i rre s i s t i b l e l ove l i n es s ,

o u e nt e r r eve r e nt l th e b u r i a l -p l ac e o f th e p r i n
y y
c es s A rj a m a n d to fi nd th e i n n er wal l s o f th e mo n
,

u me n t as m u ch a m a rve l o f s ub t l e shadow a n d
chasten ed l i ght d ecke d w i th d e l i cat e j ewe l ry as
th e ext er i o r w a s nob l e an d s i mp l e O n th e p u r e
.

s u r fa c e o f th i s h a l l o f d e a th a n d upo n t h e co l um n s
, ,

p a n e l s a n d t re l l i s -wo rk o f th e marb l e s c ree n s s u r

,

rou nd i ng t h e t omb a r e pat i en t l y i n l a i d al l s ort s

,

o f gr a c e f u l a n d e l a bor a t e emb e l l i shm ent s — flow er s , ,

l e a ves b err i e s l a p i s -l a z u l i n a c re o n yx t u rquo i s e

, , , , , ,

”
s a rdo n yx a n d eve n p re c i o u s gem s
,
.

A t r u l y wo nd er f u l e cho can b e h e a r d i n t h e i n t e
r i o r Th e so u n d o f o n e s n a t u ral vo i c e i s t ake n u p
.
’

l i ft ed h i gh i n th e dom e from h a rmo n y t o harmo n y ,

a n d l i ke o rg a n m u s i c swe l l s gra n d l y th ro u gh th e

arch e s - a b eau t i fu l e ff ect o f to n es a s i f from a

,
I 7 2 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

cho i r i nv i s i b l e ; an d i n th e c en t r e o f th e s n ow -fl o w e r ,

d eep i n i t s marb l e h e a rt w a rm b e a m s o f s u n l i g h t
,

fa l l th rou g h t h e l ac y s c r ee n o f a l a bast e r o n th e
tomb u nd e r th e great dom e wh er e l i e s M u mt a z -i ,

M a ha l cho s e n o f th e p a l a c e a n d h er royal h u sban d

, , ,

who w i l l e d a l l th i s be a u t y a n d i t w a s do n e A o,
.

cord i n g t o M a hom etan c u st om t h e real t omb i s i n ,

a c r ypt d i rect l y b e l ow th e fal s e o n e s I t i s sa i d th e .

great S ha h i nt en de d an d p l a n n ed a b l ack m arb l e

T a j to b e re a red o n th e oppo s i t e ban k o f th e J u m n a ,

co n n ect ed w i th th i s sh r i n e b y a b r i dge o f s i lve r ;

b ut th e i dea w a s aban do n ed th e Sh a dow Sh r i n e ,

n ever comp l et ed a n d we a r e l e ft to t h i n k th at t h e
,

p r i n ces s who had s o e n chant e d h e r roya l l over

w i l l e d i t that h e m i g h t n o l o nger l iv i ng b el o n g
, ,

to h e r fo reve r fo r i s s h e n o t A r j a m a nd
, ,

T hy l o v e d bri de ?
o wn

T he o n e, the ch o sen o n e wh o se p l a ce ,

”
In li fe or d e a th is b y t hy S i d e ?

To r ea l i z e th e fa b l ed sp l en do rs o f th e A rab i an
”
N i ght s com e to A gr a th e c i t y o f th e m a g n i fi cen t
, ,

A kbar w h o b u i l ded h er e a co l l ect i o n o f th e mo st

,

g l o r i o u s mosqu es pal a c es a n d m u s j i d s i n th e
, ,

wor l d a l l o f p u rest m arb l e s u r ro u n de d b y th e

, ,

wal l s o f th e fort a s pear l s a r e h i dde n w i th i n th e i r

d a rk en c l os u re W e e n te r th e fort th rough th e
.

D e l h i G a t e ; a roadway l eads t o a fl i ght of st ep s,

s u rmo u nt ed b y th e famo u s M ot i M u sj i d ,
or p ear l
1 74 A OI R L S
’
WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

t re a s u res l e ft t o s e e i n s i d e th e r ed t es s e l l at e d wal l s .

A t fi rst yo u can not com p reh en d th e v a st n e s s o f th e

s u cce s s i o n o f S arac en i c b u i l d i ng s Th ere i s an .

op en squ a r e fa rth er o n ; c l o i st ers s u rro u n d i n g th re e

S i des o f i t en c lo s i ng th e gre a t co l on n a ded A u d i en c e
H a l l th e D i w a n -i -A n o f S h a h J eh a n w h o b u i l t al l
, ,

th es e p a l aces an d h e r e g a ve au d i en c e t o h i s nob l es
, ,

a ra j a h i n a tt en dan c e at eve r p i l l a r ; a n d i f th er e
y
were n o oth e r marve l s th i s o n e a lo n e wo u l d rep a y
,

o u th e j o u r n e
y y .

O u r gu i de co n d u ct s u s b y an exqu i s i t e st a i rw a y
to th e ap a rtm ent s o f th e I mp e r i a l H a rem a be ,

w i l der i n g v i sta o f marb l e room s wh er e dwe l t a l l ,

t h at w a s m ost l ovel y o f wom a nk i n d i n th e em p i re ,

p rot ect e d from V i ew b y p i erc ed m arb l e s cree n s

carved l i k e l a c e A l uxu r i o u s garden b l o sso ms
w i th ros es a n d cree p i n g v i n es ; a mo n g th em i n th e ,

o l de n t i m e fo u nt a i n s th rew a p er fu m e d Sp r a y a n d
,

b i rds san g i n th e t ree s A l i tt l e d i st a n t was a

.

fi s h p o n d o n c e fi l l e d w i th go l d fi s h wh er e th e r i v a l
-
,
-
,

b eau t i es m et am u s e d t h e m s el ves fi sh ed a n d i n
, , ,

t r i g u e d at th e sam e t i m e n o doub t fo r l a ck o f o th e r
,

o ccupat i o n s . Th e s e fo u nt ai n s r efl ect e d N o u r ma h a l ,

a n d p erhap s th e fa i r A r j a m a n d who des c r i b e d a s

, ,

al l sweet n e ss w a s n everth el e ss a b i got a n d p l ott e d

, ,

th e d est r u ct i o n o f th e n ew l y-est a b l i sh e d C a tho l i c s ;

and j eal o u s i es r i val,
r i es a n d h eart
,
-b r eaks mourn ,

i ng an d l au g h i n g we nt o n al l t h rou g h th e ex i ts an d
,
 A GR A AND TH E TA] M AH AL . 175

'

e nt ran ce s o f th e ro ya l a cto r s o n th i s s t age l a n d o f -

stat e I n o n e co u rt ya rd h a s b ee n l a i d o u t i n ma r
.

b l e b locks o f gr a y a n d wh i te a h uge ch e s sboard ,

wh e r e th e Mogu l k i ng p l a ye d ch es s w i th h i s s u l
t a n a w i th l i v i ng ch es sm e n a n d j u st o rd ered th e
, ,

p a ges a n d l i tt l e b o y kn i ght s to change a bo ut o n

-

th e spaces .A n d w e sa w al so i n m a rb l e th e ro ya l
, ,

g a m e o f p arch e e s i th e sam e g a m e o n a l a r g e sc a l e
, , ,

wh i ch w e p l a ye d a s ch i l d re n A n d th e m e r r y mo n
.

arc h A kb a r h a d h u g e a rch e d r oom s i n te rtw i n i n g ,

l i ke a l a b yr i nth wh er e h e love d to s e e h i s l i tt l e
,

w i ve s p l a yi ng ; a n d th i s i s cal l ed th e P a l a c e o f H i d e
an d - S e ek.

Th e E ngl i sh gove rn m e n t has s e t ap a rt th es e

won der fu l palace s wh i ch ar e j u st as fresh a s th e
,

d a y t h e l a st workm a n l e ft th em a n d kee p s th em ,

p rot ect e d f rom dest r u ct i o n Wh a t wou l d h a ppen

.

i f a d esp er a t e war S hou l d b e c a rr i ed o n i n I n d i a ?

I f yo u r e a d o f A kb a r w h o cau s e d al l th i s g lo r y
, ,

o u w i l l s e e h e w a s a wo n d er f u l ma n an d mo st l i b
y
e r a l i n h i s v i ews A M a ho m et a n h i m s e l f h e n eve r
.
,

t h e l e s s took a B r a hm i n w i f e f ro m th e H i n d u s ; an d

h e b u i l t fo r h e r a pal a c e o f exqu i s i t e I n d i a n d e s i gn ,

co nta i n i n g a t em p l e fo r th e i do l s H e al so chos e .

a b r i d e f ro m th e Por t ugu es e o f Goa a C h r i st i an ,

g i r l o f who m h e had h e a rd th rough th e J e s u i t s ;

,

an d h e b u i l t hi s C atho l i c w i fe a ch a p e l w i th as
m an y c ro s s es as c resc ent s .
1 76 WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A CI RL S IN .

We h ave o n l y a f e w s i l en t mom ent s to i mag i n e

th e l i fe h e r e a s i t w a s i n th e t i m e o f Pers i a n sp l en
do r fo r t h e gu i d e w i l l ho l d hi s p eac e n o lo n ge r
, ,

an d t e l l s u s th a t w e m u st move o n I n a mom e n t
.

-i
m or e w e ar e i n th e D i wan Kas s an d ar e l i st e n
-
,

“
i ng to a st a t em en t tha t th e h a l l i s S ixt y-fo u r feet
l on g an d th i rt y-fou r b road al l o f p i et ra du ra ; an d
,

th e fact i s i mp r es s i ve l y dec l a red that i t i s t race d

an d ch i s e l l ed roo f a n d mou l d i n g s w i th lot u s flower s
, ,

an d b u d d e s i g n s H ow o n e wou l d l i k e t o b e qu i et !
.

b u t th e g u i de now an d the n d i sappears a l togeth e r

i n t h e l ab yr i nth o f a rch es doo rways a n d s ec ret
, ,

s ta i rways y o u g i ve u p t h e at t empt a n d o n l y
,
st r iv e
’
t o keep i n s i g ht th e H i n du s fl yi ng sash e s .

ST . J OH N S ’
CO LLEGE .

’
I t w a s a b o u t twe l ve o c l ock o f th e noo nday whe n
w e fi rs t e nt ered th e c ompou n d o f S t J oh n s C o l .
’

l ege b e l o ng i n g t o th e Lo n do n M i s s i onar y S o c i et y
, ,

wh er e I n d i a n boys ar e e du cat ed to pas s exam i n a

t i on s fo r th e Eng l i sh u n i ve r s i t i es gr a du at e an d , ,

rec e i ve d egrees equ a l to th e gover n m e nt co l l eges

of Ind ia . We h ad vo yage d down t h e R ed S ea a n d
th rou g h th e I n d i an O cean w i th th e n ew r e cto r th e ,

R ev M r H
. . an d h e ha d p rom i se d o n o u r a r
r i v i ng at A gra th at w e sho u l d s e e h i m an d h i s
co l l eg e ; an d s o o n e mor n i n g an I n d i an dog cart -

d rove r eck l es s l y aro u n d th e n arrow c u rve s o f A gra

1 78 WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A CI R L S IN .

m u d -th a tched b u i l d i n g i n th e gro u nd s an d have ,

ove r th em a c a r e t k er- a — a d e a r o l d n a t i ve
, who i s ,

c a l l ed a H ou s e -fa th e r Th e floo rs o f the hou s e are

.

sto n e a n d th e w a l l s o f the i r room s c l a y L i k e

,
.

p r i so n -cot s th e l ow ch a rpo ys o f the s t u d eht s w ere

,

ranged a l o ng th e s i de w a l l s stan d i ng a bou t a foot ,

f rom th e gro u nd N o oth e r f u r n i t u re w a s v i s i b l e

. .

Th e o n l y a tt em p t a t o r n a m en t to b e s een w ere th e
b r i ght -co l o re d p a steboard i n i t i a l s o f th e ho no r -m en
at E ng l i sh u n i ver s i t i es th a t s eem ed to e n co u r a ge
,

th e st u de nt s to th i nk th e r e w a s som e chan c e fo r
th em a ft er a l l t o go a n d do l i kew i se I t w a s a l l so .

pl a i n a n d b a r e ,
a s i mp l i c i t
y th a t G re ek p h i l o s o

h e r s m i ght h a ve app roved a n d scarc e f e l l Sho rt

p ,

o f th e mark a i m e d at b y th e J e s u i t co l l eges .

L i ke eve r y o n e e l s e wh o com e s i n co n t a ct w i th
I n d i a n m i s s i o n s w e reve a l ed an am a z i n g amo u n t
,

of l a t en t i nt ere st i n th em u p to th a t mom en t ,

s c a rc e l y s u spect ed b y o u rs e l ves D u r i n g th e d a y .

th e R e v M r H
. . r e l at e d m an y i nt ere st i n g
th i ng s i n re fere n c e to th e m i s s i on s i n A gra a n d ,

w e l i st en ed e a g er l y wh i l e th e recto r t a lked a bo u t
hi s c o l l ege . Th er e ar e fo u r h u n d red n a t i ves b e
i n g e d u cat e d at S t J oh n s C o l l ege (o n l y fo rt y o f
.
’

them a r e C h r i s t i a n s ! a n d i t i s po s s i b l e fo r a n a t i ve
,

to get h i s ed u cat i o n w i th o rd i n a r y care fo r from

e i gh t to o n e h u nd red ru pee s I n the Ch u rch m i s .

i
s o n a r y b oard i n g -schoo l s t h e char g e f o r st u dent s i s
 A GR A AN D TH E TA] MAHAL .
1 79

e i gh t an n as a mo nth I n compet i ng w i th gover n

.

m e n t s choo l s i n wh i ch th e charge s a r e m ere l y

,

’
n om i n a l S t J oh n s i s ob l i ged to o ffe r very l ow
,
.

t e rm s. P utt i ng m i s s i o n s o n t r i a l i s a favo r i t e
am u sem en t ; b u t I th i nk a ft e r h e a r i ng t h e cas e ar
e d b th e r es u l t s i n I n d i a th e p e rce nt a ge of
g u
y ,

peo p l e who wo u l d not g i ve a verd i c t o f adm i rat i o n

i s ver y i n s i g n ifi cant .

I n th e compo u nd o f th e recto r s b u ngalow th ere ’

i s a sm a l l b u i l d i n g o cc u p i ed b y seve n H i n du and a s
,

man y mo r e M a hom etan st u den t s Th ey h a ve s ep a .

r a t e s ervan t s who prepare th e food ; and th ey take

,

th e i r m ea l s alo n e squ a tt i ng o n th e gro u nd an d e a t

, ,

i ng w i th th e i r fi n ger s A mo n g t h e st u de nt s are s e v
.

e r a l o f th e h i gh est cast es i n I n d i a an d o n e b o y i s th e ,

d e s c end a n t o f th e great S e yd H e i s a n ob l e fe l low .

,

t a l l a n d ath l et i c w i th a Sp l end i d he a d a n d gre a t

,

d i gn i t y o f ex p res s i o n ; and th e rector to l d u s that

a ft e r e a r s o f st u d an d i nt e rco u r s e th i s b rave ou n g
y y y
M u s s u l m a n ha s b ecom e qu i t e co nv i n ced o f th e e r
r o r s o f h i s i nh er i t ed fa i th Wh e n th e repo rt s o n
.

exa m i n a t i o n s wer e to b e s en t i n to the A l l a h a bad

U n i vers i t y a n d each b o y w a s a ske d to wh a t c reed
,

h e wo u l d b e pu t down S e yd i n s p i t e o f th e d er i s i o n
, ,

o f oth e r st u dent s a n d at th e ha z ard o f al l h i s pro s

,

“ ”
p eet s to fort u n e an d t i t l e re p l i ed A C h r i st i an
, ,
.

S o h e h a s con s ent ed t o b ecom e o n e o n S u nday .

The i n d i gnat i o n am ong th e n a t i ve s i s i nte n s e ; th e

1 80 WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A C I RL S IN .

tow n i s i n fu r i at ed ; n oth i ng e l s e i s tal k ed o f H i s .

moth er s a ys th a t th i s w i l l b re a k he r h eart b ut h i s ,

fath er d e c lare s h e w i l l k i l l h i m H op i n g to i n
.

t i mi d a t e th e m i s s i o n ar i es th e M a hom et a n s h e l d a
,

m e et i ng l ast S u n d a y m o r n i n g at wh i ch th ey p a ss e d
,

a reso l ut i o n th a t shou l d th e b a p t i sm t a k e p l a c e i t
, ,

b e d ec ree d that n o M a hom etan b o y i n f u t u re a t

t e n d a C hr i st i an co l l ege .

Th e m i s s i o nar i e s comp l a i n j u st l y o f th e a tt i t u de o f
th e B r i t i sh g ove r nm ent o f I n d i a tow a rd th e C hr i s
t i an r e l i g i o n A n y a m o u n t o f to l er a t i o n i s shown to
.

a l l oth e r c reed s .A H i n d u ma y p ro se l yt i z e a s m u ch
a s h e w i l l ; M a hom etan s ma y p re a ch a n d m ak e co n

vert s b u t th e C h r i s t i an r e l i g i o n m u st n ot b e spoken
o f i n h i g h p l ac es I n f u l fi l me nt o f t re a t y co n d i t i o n s
.

w i th th e h e a th en no govern m en t s erv a n t i s a l lowed

,

to a tte mpt th e i r co nvers i o n No B i b l e h i sto ry i s

.

taught i n th e gover nm e nt co l l eges ever ywhe re e s

t a b l i s h e d b u t th e wo rks o f H uxl e y S chopenhau er
, , ,

an d oth er i nfide l l i t erat u r e i s al lowed A S an i l l u s .

t r a t i o n a com m i s s i o n e r o f a c e rt a i n p rov i n c e i n I n
,

d i a at o n e t i m e took a n act i ve part i n a S a l vat i o n

A rm y m e et i n g wh i ch h a d gat h ered t o exp l a i n som e
,

po rt i o n o f B i b l e h i sto ry to th e s o l d i e rs H e was .

soo n i n fo rm ed b y gove rnm e n t a u tho r i t y that h e

wou l d h a ve to g i ve u p h i s B i b l e c l as s a nd m eet i n g s ,

o r re s i g n h i s post I can not g i ve yo u a l l th e d e

.

ta i l s that I h eard b ut I recal l sc rap s o f th e co n

,
1 82 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

D u r i n g th e even i ng a m es s a ge w a s s en t to th e
nat i ve st u dent s who o c c u p y a sm a l l b u ng a low j u st
,

b e yo n d th e pal m -t rees to j o i n u s Th e d a rk -e yed

,
.

I n d i a n s w ere soo n s eat ed i n a lo ng u n com fo rt a b l e , ,

bash fu l row i n e i ght ch a i rs p u sh ed b a ck st r a i ght

,

a l o ng th e O pp os i t e w a l l o f th e l i tt l e d r a w i ng -roo m .

I th i nk t he l a t e n t co n sc i o u s n es s o f s u p er i o r i t y m a t e
r i a l i z e s wh en o u com e fa c e to fa c e w i th ou r d rk
y y a

e yed b roth e rs O n e w a s a l a d w i th a p e c u l i a r l y h i gh
.

b re d look a n d a sweet a n d gent l e fa ce H i s ve lvet .

embro i dere d c lot h es Sh owed t hat h e w a s o f t h e

u pp er c l a s s - a S eyd o f t h e fa m i l y o f M a hom et
,
.

Th e oth e r bo ys we r e not l es s i nt er e st i n g ; an d th e y
r et u r n ed ou r g l an c es f rom u n de r th e i r lo n g l a sh es ,

“
a s i n o u r w a y w e were qu i t e a s m u ch c u r i o s to
the m a s th e y t o u s . f
S i l en c e o l lowed — a h em b a r ,

r a ss i ng s i l en c e We k n ew n ot wh a t to s a y to t h em ;
.

s o at fi rst s a i d noth i ng b u t took l o ng l ook s a t th e

,

r ector s l i tt l e m e lod eo n th a t o ccu p i e d t h e o pp o s i t e

’

cor n e r f rom wh e re t hos e e i ght yo u ng h e a th e n s a t

m ot i o n l es s tho ugh th e y s eem ed to pe rv a d e th e
,

who l e room . I t w a s a go n i z i ng th i s so c i a l co nt a ct
,

o f th e r a c es We co u l d go o n we l l w i th gu i d es
.

and n at i ve shopkeepers who hal f A n g l i c i z e d the m

, ,

s e l ves k n ew how t o t a k e u s ; b u t th e s e u nd i l ut ed
,

h e a th en we r e n o t i nt e l l i g i b l e b e i ng s to u s We .

o n l y k n ew th at i n the i r e yes we wer e com m i tt i n g a

p ec u l i ar s i n i n m er e l y S i tt i n g i n th e room w i th t he
 A GRA AN D TH E TA] Il I A H A L .
183

sa h ibs . H a s no t M a ho m et sa i d Let yo u r wo m e n
,

”
b e i n s ec l u s i o n ? a n d wo rs e st i l l i n o u r d i st a nt
,

t r i p to E a st er n co u nt r i es we re we not d i sob e yi ng
,

th e T a m i l p rove rb tau g ht b y th e i r mothe rs wh i ch ,

“ ”
s a ys,
I g no ran c e i s a n o rn a m en t to wo m e n and ,

wh i ch fo l l owed o u t den i es to th e i r s i st e rs chang e s

,

of s c e n e wh i l e a s u pe rst i t i o u s r e l i g i o n s e a l s th e
,

p l eas u res o f s u ch s m a l l so c i a l j o ys a s th es e ? To
o u r re l i e f th e rector s uggest s m u s i c ; a n d B
, grat e .

f u l l y t a kes th e ch a i r a t th e m e l o deo n a n d p rod u c es

,

a f ra g m e nt o f We st e rn s ong to a p a g a n a u d i e nc e .

”
I t i s th e Last N i ght a n d ver we l l s u n g I f
, y .

West er n sp eec h w a s a s l e a d West e r n so ng w a s a s

,

ad a man t to th e i r comp reh e n s i o n Th i s o l d f r i en d

.

amo ng songs h e a rd every n i ght i n anoth er l a n d

wo u l d n ever fa i l fo r a pp l au s e ; b u t th e I n d i an s u n
d e r s t a n d noth i n g o f t h e m e lo d y an d th i nk th e t r i l l s
,

an d s ca l e s wo n d er f u l b u t u n n ec es s a r y ; t he y s i t
s t r a nge l y d u mb w i th t h e i r a rm s fo l ded a n d p a y n o
, ,

t r i b ut e to th e m u s i c Wh e n t wo mo r e s el ect i o n s
.

m eet th e s a m e fa t e w e r et i re ; an d a ft e r a n i nte rv a l
,

t h e bo ys o ffe r n o ob j ect i o n t o o u r r equ est a n d s i n g ,

som e n a t i ve r ag s i n th e i r own st yl e a p e n s i ve
, ,

m u s i ca l p a c e .

Th e m u s i c i a n s o f I nd i a have a p e r fect s c a l e o f
s eve n to n es ; th e y have compo sed a c e rt a i n n umb e r
of 7n (t u n e s ! b e
,
l i eved to b e o f d i v i n e o r i g i n ,

an d th e i nven t i o n o f n ew m u s i c a l compo s i t i o n s o r
1 84 G I RL WI N TE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

th e l e a s t v a r i at i o n o f tho s e ex i st i ng i s fo rb i dde n b y
th e p r i esthood Q u a i nt O r i en t a l a i rs f u l l o f we i rd
.
,

m elod i e s a n d st range e ffect s o f t i m e a n d rh ythm a r e ,

th e g a zal s su n g b y t h e M a hom etan s o f N o rther n

I nd i a . H i ndu st a n i mu s i c a l compo s i t i o n s c a l l ed ,

Bhaj a n s a r e even mo re i rreg u l a r and a b r upt Th e

,
.

b eg i n n i ng s e n d i ngs a n d e r r a t i c sp i r i t o f th e t u n es
, ,

wo u l d not b e con don e d t o B e r l i o z to whom m u ch ,

m u s i c a l ec cen t r i c i t y i s fo rg i ve n F o r i l l u st rat i o n .
,

“ ”
I quot e f ro m th e H i n d u stan i T u n e Book p ub ,

l i sh e d at L u ck now !
A bh a j a n i s co m p o s e d o f th re e p art s ! fi r st th e ,

pre l u d e wh i ch u s u a l l y con c l u d es w i th a repet i t i o n

,

o f i t s ope n i ng st r a i n ; th e n f o l l ows th e a i r pro p e r ,

co n s i st i n g o f two o r fo u r l i n es t h e s e b e i ng r ep e a t e d ,

s eve r a l l y o r ot h e rw i s e ; a fte r wh i ch th e re fra i n b e

gins . Th i s ge n eral l y l e a d s b ack t o th e l att e r part
o f th e pre l ud e e nd i n g w i t h i t s l ast st ra i n
,
Th e .

s econd , as well as each s u cceed i n g vers e b eg i n s ,

”
w i th th e a ir an d c l o s e s w i th t h e r e fra i n .

M o d er a t ely f a s t .

PRE LU DE AND R E F RA I N . B HAJ A N .

Y i -s hrr Ma me h i é
’
-s i h ro pr a na ba c a y ,
1 86 I ND I A
’
A CI RL S WI N TE R I N .

B H AJ A N .

I n mo d er a t e t u n e .

P RE LU D E .

K yt i n ma
’

na t
'
i -l a ha i i
yh sa n sé ré ,
s é ré

Ma -n a ma -ta de tu - ka ka - r a le gu
o

zé. rai, zé ré . K yun ma na t

'
I -l a ha i

ma
’

ré K yi i g
’

yi h sa n se
. . na b hi I la ha i .

Ga z a l s ,
s u n g i n U rd u —th e l an gu a ge o f M a ,

h o me t a n s a n d o f com m erc e the F re n ch o f I nd i a , ,

 A GRA AN D TH E TA] M AHAL . 1 87

ge n e ra l l y co n s i s t o f a pre l u de a i r , , and r e fr a i n .

Th e y n at u r a l l y r es emb l e Pers i an and A r a b i an

mod e l s .

M o d e r a t e b/ f a s t .

P R EL U D E . G Az A L .

U t h mu -s e
’

. fir k a r t a i -yé ri ab to k u c hh d i n

bhi na -hi n ha i Dil k a -hi n di da k a -hi n aur

a sh ka én k h o n me n na h i n ha i . Uth mu -s é . fir

ka r t a i -yé ri ab to k u c hh din bhi na hi n -ha i .

1 88 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

'

ya k S an ba ra . bar Mau ta ké . da n

ka ba j e ha i k ya tu -jhe k u c hh g a m na -h i n ha i .

M a ut k yé j a
' ' '
2 . n e l a r a k pa n
. kya b u r h at pa k ya ja w é n i , .

K ya a miri k ya fa q iri ma ut k o p a r w a h n a hi n ha i .

3 . K ya tiri é g k ho n me n a b t ék n ind g a fla t k i b a rf ha i ,
h i ma p ida r h
'
’
B a aur . da r yan k o i b hi ap n a n a i n ha i .

4 M d] 0 d a l a
. u t sh
mo sh a u k a t
’

a in me n d ho k hai ha i s a r as a r ,

S é r i d a n yé k o i k a mé w e t a u bhi k u hh h asil c na hi n ha i .

5 . Hai s h j rpa a ar k h é r d u n yat

'
z n i d a g an i h a i k a hé n i ,
Ga m l m ma
a a iwa k i ur is m n p h l a hi n ha i
tam S o a a e a n .

6 . H a i mar h mara d u ya z hr q atil s e bh ri h a i

a ra n a a ,

I s k é k ata k i m é fi oe k a d m jius tl hi h i
r a e na n a .

J i h J msh d B h ma 0 D a S i k a da r
'

7 . a s o a F ed e o ar iI n a n ra n ,

M i l g e s b k hé k me
a a k é p t a mi l
a ta hi h i
n a n . a na n a .

H i k hush i I sa M ih m n rah h qq S bir w hi h i '

8 . a as e a a at u a ,

K yun p hire bh t ké m s afia a r t o ko i r éh

. a hi u ha i r, u n n .
1 90 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

I th i nk we Spe n t th e great er part o f that eve n i ng

mot i o n i ng fo r mo re u nt i l th e b o ys fi nal l y grew
,

wear y an d we i n v o k e d t h e r ecto r to expres s o u r

‘

p l e a s u re ; an d I d a r e s a y f ro m t h e d e l i ght ed ex
,

p res s i o n o f th e S i ngers i t w a s ver y n eat l y a n d

,

c red i tab l y don e . A n d s o ra i s i ng th e r i g ht han d

, ,

t h e st u de nt s s a l a a m ed th e i r ho st an d sa i d good
,

n i ght i n th e East e r n fash i o n wh i ch w a s prob a b l y

,

“
som eth i ng l i k e t h i s ! Th e h u mb l e s l a ve o f yo u r
G rac i o u s M a j est y con s i de rs i t a n ho no r to c ros s
”
th e th r esho l d o f h i s p a l a t i a l dwe l l i ng ; to wh i ch
th e r ecto r i n c l i n es h i s h ea d p ro fo u nd l y a n d r ep l i e s ,

“
Th e s e rv a n t o f yo u r G rac i o u s Lo rd sh i p i s m o st
grat e fu l fo r th e ho no r o f e nt ert a i n i ng th e m os t
n ob l e l o rd s i n h i s m i s e r a b l e h u t ; an d we al s o
1,

ar i s e a n d s a y o u r r e g ret at l e a v i ng w i th m u ch m o r e
t r uth th a n u s u al l y S l i p s i nt o th e West e r n spee ch
o f th e me nt -l og s
(wh i t e lad i e s ! .
 A T F U T TE H P O R E S I K RI . 19 1

C H A PTE R X I I .

A T F UTT E H P O R E S I K RI .

Fe bru a ry 1 2 .

O W n ear l y w e lo st F u t t e hp o r e that love l i es t ,

o f p l a ces ! H ow fe w t r a ve l l ers v i s i t i t ! b u t
i t 18 not p erh a ps th e l es s worth y o n t hat a c
co u nt . Th e dr i v e to F u t t e hp o r e S i kr i t a ke s th r ee
ho u r s a n d a h a l f R e l a ys o f ho r s e s ar e stat i o n ed
.

at i nt e rv a l s o f S i x m i l e s o n t h e road wh er e w e ,

wer e a l ways g reet e d b y pack s o f ch i l d re n com i ng ,

apparent l y o u t o f th e gro u nd f o r n o dwe l l i ngs

, ,

mu d -h uts o r oth e r h a b i tat i o n s we re to b e s ee n

, ,

th i n u ndeve l o p ed h a l f-d r es s ed ch i l d re n who fi rs t

, , ,

sat i sfi ed th e i r cu r i o s i t y abou t o u r c l oth es a n d th e n ,

wh i n e d fo r back sh eesh as l o u d l y as th e i r poo r l i tt l e

th ro a t s wo u l d l et th em B u t a s th i s go e s o n a l l d a y
.
,

nobody m i nd s i t ; a n d i t d i d not i n th e l east d i st u rb

th e r emark s o f o u r ms d -o zs th e rect or who e nt er
’ ’

-
, ,

t a i n e d u s d u r i ng th e d r i ve b y t el l i ng sto r i e s o f na

t i ve ch a r a cte r A mo ng oth e r th i n gs h e t o l d u s that

.

“
i n th e i nt er i o r o f I nd i a t h er e exi st s a p eop l e c a l l ed
Th u g s — ,
a s eparat e cast e who wo rsh i p Kal i th e ,
1 92 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

f ea rf u l w i fe o f S i v a a f u r i o u s godd es s h i d eo u s i n
, ,

f e a t u r es w i th a n eck l ac e o f h u m a n Sku l l s sm ear e d

,

w i th b lood S h e i s t h e p a t ro n es s o f t h e Th u gs
.
,

w h o t r a ve l a bo u t t h e co u nt r y com m i tt i n g c r i m es

i n h e r hono r A n i nh a b i tant who w i sh es t o s ec u r e

.

hi s ho u s e f rom robb er y go es t o o n e o f t h e b r i g a n d s
‘
an d s a ys N ow look h er e ; I w i l l p a y yo u two r up ees
, ,

a m o nth a n d I exp ect yo u to s e e t o i t th a t my

,

’
goods a r e n ot st o l en Th i s p ut s t h e Th u g o n h i s
.

m ett l e ; a n d i f a n yth i n g h a pp e n s d u r i n g th e mo nt h
to d i st u r b yo u r p e a c e yo u j u s t go t o yo u r ma n a n d
, ,

h e know i n g w e l l th e m emb er s o f h i s c a s t e w i l l at
, ,

o n c e fi n d o u t th e t h i e f a n d r esto r e yo u r p rop e rt y ,

a l l o f wh i ch s eem s t o s u gge st that th e o l d s a yi n g ,

‘
S et a th i e f t o c a t ch a th i e f o r i g i nat e d i n t h e ,
’

”
cou nt r y o f t h e Th ugs .

I n th e H i ndu st a n i l angu a ge th er e s eem s t o b e

n o word co r res p o n d i ng t o ho no r O n al l s i d e s w e .

h ear comp l a i nt s a n d o ut cr i es at th e ch ron i c st a t e

o f d i sho n est
y a mo ng dom e st i c s e rvant s Th er e i s .

n o do ubt a bo ut i t th ey w i l l a l l ch e a t yo u r i ght an d
,

l e ft ; an d o n e l ear n s t o acc ept th i s stat e o f th i ngs

a s a n e ces s a r y co n d i t i o n o f I nd i an l i fe I n p roo f o f .

th i s I r em emb er that a n A n gl o -I n d i a n l a d y who

, ,

m i ght b e t ru st e d t o st a t e t h e fa ct s ve ry fa i r l y an d ,

who I tho u ght h a d great c a u s e fo r b emo a n i n g t h i s

s t a t e o f th i ngs o n c e to l d m e th a t wh en h e r kan sa
,

mah pres ent s h i s b i l l o f mo nth l y exp en d i t u res at

1 94 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

’
o n n a d e s, wh i ch i n A k b a r s t i m e covered ove r two
squar e m i l e s were o n l y o cc up i ed fo r fi ft y ye a rs
, ,

a n d t h en d e s ert ed at th e b i d d i ng o f t h e Mo s l em

sa i n t S a l i m C h i st i ; b ut o n e wo u l d m u ch mo re
,

r e a d i l y b e l i eve i t was th e stag nan t wat er th a t d rov e

th e co u rt to A gra .

Th i s p l e a s u re c i t y cove rs th e o n l y h i g h spot fo r
-

m i l es The re i s o n e fl a t p l a i n st ret ch i n g f rom A gra

.

t o F u t t e h p o r e S i k r i wh i ch we a pp ro a ch th ro ugh a n
,

av en u e o f fi n e t r e es B el ow t h e w a l l s a r e l eve l
.

p l a i n s l i ke th e Ro man C a mp a gn a ; ther e i s th e
sam e as p ect o f d r y g r a s s y t u r f th ro u g h wh i ch
, ,

st retch wh i t e roa d s wh i ch g ro w fa i nt e r a n d gr a d u
,

a l l y d i sap p e a r i n th e d i st a n c e A f e w r u i n s o f r ed
.

s an d sto n e arch es b re a k th e V i ew he r e a n d th er e ,

l i ke th e r em a i n s o f the o l d Roman aqu ed uct s Th e .

p eop l e i n th e l i tt l e v i l l ag e l i e abo ut th e st reet s ,

a n d s l e ep aw a y th e s u n n y ho u rs wh i ch has a d e ,

c i ded fl a vo r o f d o /Ce f a r n ze n t e ;
’

wh i l e a st i l l great er
r e s emb l a n c e ex i st s i n th e a b u n dan c e o f l i tt l e i n
s ect s i n th e V i l l a g e i t s e l f fi l th y t o th e l a st d egr ee
, ,

an d odo rou s .

Th e h i sto r y o f A kbar t h e fo u n d er o f F u t t e hp o r e
, ,

i s s o e n tang l e d i n t rad i t i o n i n m yste r y and n u ,

r eal i t y th a t i t i s b ew i l d er i n g Th e G reat Mog u l

,
.

w a s th e fi rs t o f th e Tartars t o b ehave h i m s e l f l i k e

a Pers i an sovere i g n H e w a s a cont empo r a r y o f

.

Q u ee n E l i z ab eth l i b era
,
l b u t Show i n g a t th
,
e sam e
 A T F U T TE H P O R E SI R RI .
195

t i m e th e Tarta r n a t u re o f h i s an cesto r G e n gh i s ,

Khan ; p e rso n a l l y th e ver y flowe r o f h i s a g e h a n d ,

som e Sk i l l e d as a wo rkman a n d s o co u r a geo u s t h a t

, ,

i t i s sa i d h e wo u l d spr i n g o n th e b a ck o f a yo u n g
e l e p hant wh o ha d k i l l ed h i s keep er an d comp e l i t ,

to do h i s b i dd i n g I n r e l i g i o n h e w a s a l i b e ra l
.
,

i ndu lg i ng i n w i n e ; n e i the r a M a h o me t a n no r ye t a
H i nd u o r a s u n -wo rsh i pp e r h e to l er a t ed a l l c re ed s
,

an d i sm s ; an d fo r a t i m e eve n th e J e s u i t m i s s i o n a
r i e s i mag i n e d th ey had co nve rt e d th e G re a t Mogu l .

A t l a st however th e s edu ct i ve fl a tt e r y o f h i s M o s
, ,

l em w i ve s ga i ned th e d a y an d A kb a r w a s i nd u ced
,

“
t o b e l i eve h i m se l f th e Lo rd o f th e Per i od a n d ,

equ a l t o th e Pro p het h i m s e l f N ext th e w i l y m i n i s

.
,

t e r A bd u l F a ye l wo u l d h a ve h i m d e i fi ed ; an d eve r y
mo rn i ng fro m a pal ac e w i n dow h e p res ent ed h i m
s e l f fo r ado r a t i o n as t h e i n c a rn a t e K r i sh n a a r a y ,

”
o f th e s u n s r a ys
’
Th en h e d i ed ; a n d at S e c u n d r a
.

h i s bod y l i e s i n th e n ob l e st m a u so l eu m i n al l I nd i a .

Yo u e nt e r th e co u rts p a s s i ng u n d e r a h i gh
,

g a t ew a y — th e B o u l a n d D ar W a ge
,
a t r i u mpha l
,

arch o n wh i ch are i n sc r i bed th e co nqu e st s o f th e

,

“
S hadow o f God J ub a l -u d i n -M o h u n d K h a m th e
”
, ,

empe ro r wh i ch d a t e s a b ou t 1 6 1 0 A D
,
O n th e . .

reve rs e o f th e e n t r a n ce -g a t e i s a ve rs e wh i ch a ft e r ,

th e m a n n e r o f gu i d es i s t r a n s lat ed fo r u s i n a mu
si ca l u tt e ran ce o f m i sfit wo rds an d b e i n g i nt e r
,

“ ‘

p r e t e d reads
,
! J es u s o n who m b
,
e pe a c e sa i d Th e , ,
1 96 WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A CI RL S IN .

wor l d i s a b r i dge ; pas s over i t b u t b u i l d no hou s e ,

t he r e ! h e who hopeth fo r an hou r ma y hop e fo r

eter n i t y Th e wo r l d l ast s b u t an ho u r spe n d i t i n
.
,

’
d evot i o n ; th e rest i s u n s ee n .

B u t I l i k e mo st th e fi n e tomb o f th e ho l y fa k i r
S a l i m ; b u t wh i ch i s th e mo r e rem a rk a b l e th e great ,

wh i t e mosqu e i n t h e ce nt re o f th e m a rb l e c lo i st ers ,

o r th e de l i cat e wo rkman sh i p a n d l a ce -c arved m a rb l e

a e l s o f th e s a i nt s sh r ’
i n e ? I t wo u l d requ i r e mo r e
p n

than a d a y t o s e e i t al l Th e ho u s e o f B i r l o u l th e
.
,

H i n du fa vo r i t e o f th e emp ero r who s e dwe l l i n g ha s

,

b ee n comp a re d t o th e m an s i o n o f a C yc lop s pas s e d ,

th ro ugh th e h a nds o f a C h i n e s e s cu l pto r a n d th e

t reas u ry — a l a byr i nth wh ere t rad i t i o n s a ys A kbar
, ,

p layed h i de -a n d -s eek w i th h i s m er ry w i ve s an d th e n
t h e Pa n ch M a h a l o r fi v e -sto r i e d pav i l i o n b u i l t e n
, ,

t i r e ly of
mas s i ve red san dsto n e th e c a p i tal s varyi n g
,

i n d es i gn — th e o n e th e g u i d e po i nt ed o u t w a s an
,

o r i g i nal d eco r a t i o n rep res e nt i n g i nt ertw i n i ng e l e

,

h f
’

p a n t S t u sks ; b u t a t e r a l l I can o n l y g i ve th e
m e r est h i nt o f i t .

S u dd e n l y th e two nat i ves appea r o n t h e top o f t h e

t es s e l l at ed wal l s an d j um p i nto a l arge Ope n we l l
,

e i ght y f e et b e lo w Th e wat e r w a s cove red w i th a

.

th i ck mal ar i o u s s l i m e a l ar g e ho l e b e i n g cu t i n i t
, ,

wh e r e t h e d i vers st r u ck th e wat e r ; an d th ey wer e

a s gr e e n as b u l l -f rogs wh e n th e y l e ft th e poo l ,

and cam e sp utt e r i ng t oward u s fo r r upees Th e y .

1 98 WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A CI RL S IN .

cast e have th em s e lves fo u nde d a n ew o n e b y re fu s

, ,

i n g to m e et th e nat i ve s o n a n equ al fo ot i n g e x cept

,

i n th e c i v i l o ffice s and th e st re et car s ; an d th at eve n

th e E u ras i a n s a r e m ade to s u ffe r f ro m th i s h au teu r
o f t h e E ng l i sh towards th e n at i o na l ar i sto c rac y .

A n d t h u s th e t al k ra n o n u n t i l w e r each ed
A g ra .
 DE LHI AN D I TS R UI NS . 1 99

C H A PTE R X I I I .

D E L H I AN D I T S R U I N S .

Fe bru a ry 1 3 .

I E hav e p a s s ed ove r th e J u m na a n d th e t ra i n ,

ha s sto pp e d at D e l h i k no wn a s S hah J e
,

h a nab a d o r th e C i t y o f S h a h J eh a n h e who b u i l de d
, ,

mo re l a v i sh l y a n d S p l e n d i d l y th a n a n y oth er man
th a t eve r l i ved . Now a s i n o l d d a ys D e lhi i s s u r
, ,

ro u n ded b y a t es s e l l a t e d wal l e n c lo s i n g a c i t y o f
,

dom e s an d towers o f m i n a r et s an d t emp l e s h a l f

, ,

v i s i b l e th ro ugh th e den s e fo l i a g e o f a c a c i a -t re es .

D e l h i w a s n ever a great c i t y u n d er t h e M a h o me
“
tan s T a l b o ys Wh ee l e r s a ys that i t w a s a c a mp
.

t u rn ed i nto a c a p i t a l . Th e r e were b ro a d st reet s

a n d n arrow l a n e s ,
b u t th e b u l k o f t h e ho u s es were
m u d hu t s l i tt l e b ett e r than com mo n t ent s ; and
,

even t h e m a n s i o n s o f th e g ran d ees w i th t h e i r i m

,

pos i n g gatew a ys a n d co u rt yards wer e mo st l y b u i l t

,

of c lay ,
wh i t en ed w i th l i m e Th e M a hom et a n
.

cou rt i ers wh eth er Pers i a n s o r T u rks we r e c re a

, ,

t u res o f a d a y ; th e i r we a l th d e p e nded so l e l y o n
fa vo r w i th th e s u lt a n Th ey h a d n o l a n ded e s
.

t ates ; b u t th e p r i n c es o f R a j p u tan a who dwe l t at

,
2 00 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

co u rt b u i l t th e great p a l a c es
, of A g ra an d D e lh i ,

”
a n d b u i l t t he m fo r a l l t i m e .

No rth B rook H ot e l i s c l o s e b es i d e th e o l d c i t y
-

wal l ; an d som et i m es i n th e l at e a ft ernoo n we w a l k

th rough a l a n e form ed b y i t s s to n y s i des to th e
, ,

modern town pas s i n t h e ye l low s u n se t car a va n s

,

of cam e l s e a ch o n e t i ed b y th e t a i l to th e he a d
,

s t a l l o f t h e c a m e l b eh i n d a l l i n s i ng l e fi l e
,
th e i r ,

lon g n eck s u nd u l a t i n g so m et i m es st ret ched h i g h i n

,

a i r to p u l l o ff th e g ree n b ran ch es o f th e t rees In .

som e p l a ces i n th e E a s t i t is c u stomar y t o h a r n es s

a pai r o f ca me l s to a Lon do n ma i l ph a eton I wo n - .

d er i f th i s w i l l b e th e n ext fa d a t W i ndso r Cast l e ,

i mpo rt ed a l on g w i th H i n d u st a n i s e rva n t s a n d I n
d i an m a h a r a j a h s Th e d e v o t es o f t h es e b east s have
.

a w i de r a nge — s erv i n g cav a l r y r eg i m e nt s fo r po st

, ,

o ffi c e de l i ve r y h a u l i n g r a i l s f o r th e i ro n road s o ft e n
, ,

ok ed w i th a b u l lock b e for e th e p l ough a t a d ec i ded

y
’
l o s s o f th e c a m e l s d i gn i t y S o th ey s e rve i n m an y
.

w a ys an d m an y wo rks ; b ut they h a ve th e i r p l a y-d a y

i n th e r a i n y s e a so n Then a c co rd i ng to o u r n a t i ve
.
,

“
gu i d e,
cam e l s n o wo rk can st a y dow n i n m u d ,

”
w i th ro a ds ; wh i ch b e i ng i n t e rpret ed m ean s t h a t
”
th e l ength y l i m b s o f th e Sh i p o f th e de s ert c a n
o n l y b e n a v i gat ed i n fa i r weath er .

O ft e n w e spe n d a n e nt i r e d a y w i th th e D e lh i
sho p keepers -
,
i n s i n u a t i n g dark -eyed m en who ar e
, ,

m ode l s o f pat i e n c e an d p er s everan ce I n s e a -g ree n .

 2 02 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

a l l over th e i r fa ces I a m so rry yo u n ot b u y a n y

,

”
t h i n g f ro m m e a n d ge n er a l l y p re s s yo u n ot to b u y
, ,

“
o n l y s e e ; a n d th e n t h e b a rg a i n b eg i n s What 11 .
’

y o u take f o r th a t p i n ? a b a r o f h a l f -a -doze n l i g ht
“
sapph i re s . A sk i n g p r i ce fi ft y r upees s e l l i n g pr i c e ,

”
th i rt y-fi v e rup e es re p l i es th i s s e l f-co nv i ct ed e xt o r
,

t i o n e r ; a n d th e h a n d som e e ye s look ve r y ho n est l y

i n you r fa c e “
.B e l i eve my word M em S a h i b that , ,

my co st p r i c e No w i s th e t i m e to b e u tt er l y i n
.

d i ffe ren t t e l l i ng h i m qu i et l y that twe nt y rupe e s i s

,

“
y o u r l ast wo rd ; a n d repe a t ver y st ro n g yl We l l i f , ,

o u w i l l n Ot t ake m o ff e r go ! R a m d e l i be r a t e l
y y , y
p a cks a n d t i e s u p th e m u s l i n s he et u s ed fo r t ran s
,

po rt i n g th e w a re s f ro m th e S hO p p a u s i n g f requ ent l y ,

t o d i s cove r a n y S i gn s o f yo u r r e l ent i n g ; an d at th e
e nd i f yo u ho l d o ut h e says i n fa l l i b l y an d w i tho u t
, , , ,

em ot i o n t wo wo rds
,
“
T a ke i t
,
”
No mo re —yo u .
,

have co n c l u ded th e a ffa i r Th e b o y S h a nke r to l d

.

u s to d ay t hat th e c u sto m a r y fe e to a p r i vat e s erva n t

i s two p i c e o n each r upe e b es i d e s wh i ch e a ch Shop
,

k e ep er p a ys a comm i s s i o n o f fi ft y r up ees ye a r l y to
th e hot e l fo r th e p r i v i l ege o f co n d u ct i n g th es e
t ran sact i o n s .

A l tho u g h n ear l y a week i n D e l h i a n d al mo s t i n ,

s i ght o f th e C h a n dn i C ho a k t h re e o f Eve s d es cend ,

’

a nt s h a ve s o fa r r es i st ed the g l i tt e r a n d g l amo r o f
t h e al l u r i ng j ewe l r y b a z a ars Th i s i s q u i t e e n o ugh
.

t r i umph . Ther e i s n o qu est i o n o f ho l d i n g o u t a n

 DELHI AN D I TS R UI NS . 2 03

oth e r d a y S u nd ry c u r i o u s n eck l a c es o f I nd i a n
.

des i gn h a nded abo u t th e p a r l o rs l a st even i ng a f

t e r t a b/e a n d d ec l ared b th e i r own er s t o
y
b e gr eat b ar g a i n s h a ve m a de th i s i mpo s s i b l e
,
.

S hanke r i s fo rthw i th d e s p a t che d fo r a s u i tab l e co n

v e a n c e ; an d r u she s w i l d l
y y toward u s f o l l owe d,
b y
a rath e r Shabby l i tt l e s l att ed box o n wh e e l s w i t h ,

“
No 1 p a i nt ed co n s p i c uo u s l y o n t h e doo r pan e l s
.
-
,

a n ec es s a r y p recaut i o n to d i st i ngu i sh i t fro m i t s

,

poo r r e lat i o n th e s eco n d -c l as s ghar r i

,
B etwee n u s
.

an d that l i tt l e carr i age i s a c rowd o f t rad esm e n co n ,

j u red up b y ou r ap p e a r a n ce a t t h e doo r o f t h e h o
t e l each ho l d i ng h i g h h i s c a rd a n d p res s i ng i t i nto
,

o u r h a n d s a n d ever y o n e spe a k i n g b rok e n E ng l i s h

,

i n a cho r u s ! M i s s S a h i b yo u com e to my shop ;

,

I a m ve r y ch e a p m an I n ot wan t t o make profit ;

,

I have ve r y goo d c u r i o s i t i e s t o Show yo u ; and

eve n aft e r we we re fa i r l y s e a t e d t h e ho rs e s co u l d
n ot m ove s o g re a t w a s th e th ro n g o f th em
,
C hal o ! .

j u l d i ! j ow ! o r a n
y oth e r H i n d u stan i p h r a s es how ,

eve r p erem p to r y h a d n o e ffe ct

,
Th e s u p erst i t i o u s
.

c re a t u res fi n a l l y p l a y the i r gre a t card ru n n i n g a ft e r

,

o u r carr i a ge w i th s evera l a rt i c l e s i n th e i r h a nd s ,

e n t reat i n g “
M em S a h i b m a k e b a rg a i n ma ke o ff e r
, , , ,

”
mo r n i n g t i me w a nt t o s e l l so m eth i ng ; o r wh e n
, ,

“ ’
n i ght com es ,
D o n t s e l l a n yth i n g to d a y ; ho w -

mu ch yo u g i ve ? ”
Eve ry d a y th e r e i s th e s a m e
o rdea l to b e pas s ed w i th add i t i o n s ; an d at l a st
,
2 04 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

they r i d e o n th e st ep s o f yo u r carr i a g e an d o rde r ,

y o u r gharr i -wal l a h t o stop b e f o r e th e i r Shop s wh en

d r i v i n g b y th em .

O u r s yc e took u s b y d ev i o u s w a ys th ro ugh th e a l
l u r i n g a n d fa s c i nat i n g st reet s o f th e C han d n i C ho a k
a n d s i lve r ba z a a r We s u spect h e we l l k n ew th e re
.

i s a l i m i t to eve r y to u r i st s r e s i st a n ce to t empt a t i o n
’

a n d we wo u l d r each ou r s amo ng th e j ewe l s o f th e

C ho a k s o i t proved Th e y al l h a ve a n ex a gg e rat e d
.

i d e a o f o u r requ i re m ent s a n d i n s i s t o n show i n g u s

,

j ewe l ry wh i ch we hav e n ot th e s l i ght e st i dea o f

b u yi n g We l i n g e red ho u rs b e fo re th es e g l i tt e r
.

i n g th i ng s wh os e own e rs s a i d i n s u ch a b es e ech
,

“
a n d th e c u n n i n g
’
i n g way D o n t b u y o n l y l ook ;
, ,

H i n d u o ut s i d e r e st ed h i s ho rs e s a n d h i m s e l f a n d ,

co nt emp l at e d p l a c i d l y t h e amo u n t o f rupees h e

wo u l d s n ugl y t u ck a w a y that n i ght i n th e wh i t e
fo l d s of n at i v e d r a pe ry a s a r e s u l t o f th e m u l t i
hi s
p l i c a t i o n b y ho u rs o f t wo r upe es th e r a t e o f carr i ag e ,

h i re . W e e n d ed b y l eav i n g i t a l l I t i s st r a n g e .

that at fi rst yo u m e a n t to b u y eve ryth i n g b ut t h e ,

“
mo r e yo u look a t th e s a n t oS AdS co nt ent m ent s a s , ,

th e n a t i ve l ad i es c a l l th em t h e m or e yo u fi n d a ,

s a t i at e d fe e l i n g t a k i ng th e p l a c e o f fi rs t e nth u s i a s m ;
an d wh a t yo u form er l y covet e d yo u wo u l d now r e ,

f u s e a t a n y pr i c e A n d s o h a l f an ho u r l a t e r that
.
,

d a y we we re wan d er i n g th ro ugh t h e g reat I mp er i al

,

Palace of th e Mo g u l s o n t h e J u m n a
,
.
2 06 WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A CIRL S IN .

s i lve r ; a s i f S hah J eh a n h a d d r a wn u p th e co nt ract

w i th t h e ob l i g i ng G e n i e who m A l add i n s um mo n ed
,

t o b u i l d h i m a pal a c e worth y t o rec e i v e th e Pr i n

c es s B u dd i r G e n i e comm a nd s th e l u ck y s o n o f th e
.

C h i n es e t a i lo r ! Let i t s m at e r i a l b e made o f noth

i n g l es s th a n po rph yr y j a spe r a g a t e l ap i s -l a z u l i
, , , ,

a n d th e fi n est m a rb l e ; l et i t s w a l l s b e o f m a s s i ve

go l d a n d s i lve r b r i cks l a i d a l t er nat e l y s o th ey sh a l l

, ,

exc e e d everyth i n g o f th e k i n d ever s ee n i n th e

”
wo r l d . A n d i n deed th i s p a l a c e s o fa r a n swers t o
t h i s d es c r i pt i o n th a t yo u c a n r e a d ov e r th e Moo r
“
i s h arch es a g i l de d i n s cr i pt i o n i n Pe rs i a n ! I f th e re
b e a n e l ys i u m o n e arth i t i s th i s — i t i s th i s
,
”
,
.

H e re w a s t h e p eaco ck th ron e who s e fab u l o u s co st ,

n ever fa i l s t o reward th e g u i d e w i th l i tt l e exc lama

“ ” “ ”
t i o n s o f o h s a n d a h s f rom th e to u r i st who
’ ’

c a n a s a r u l e appre c i a t e p l a i n figu re s i f n ot th e

s ubt l e s e nt i m e n t o f t h e T a j Noth i n g I can s a y

.

a bo u t i t w i l l no t b e b ett e r s a i d b y th e gu i de book !
-

“
I n th e c e nt r e o f t h i s h a l l st a n d s a wh i t e marb l e
da i s o n wh i ch w a s o n c e p l ac ed th e o n c e -fam ou s
,

p eacock th ro n e a s eat b etwee n th e p eaco ck s

, ,

who s e sp read t a i l s wer e e n cru st e d w i th s a pph i re s ,

d i amo n ds rub i e s em e ra l ds an d oth er p rec i o u s

, , ,

sto n e s i n i m i tat i o n o f n at u ral co cks

,
O ve r th e .

back w a s a par rot sa i d t o h a ve b e en c a rv ed from

,

a S i n g l e em eral d Th i s th ro n e i s rep ut ed to hav e

.

”
co st th re e m i l l i o n s st er l i n g .
 DE LHI AND
’
I TS R UI I VS .
207

O u r gu i d e l ead s u s to th e R u n g M a h a l Eve r y
.

wh e r e are ar a b esqu e sc re e n s p i e rced l i ke l a c e ; o n e

o f th em i s m at ch l es s i n al l I n d i a —
,
a cob web i n
’
m a rb l e
. Th e z en ana a n d ch i l d re n s p l y gro u nd
a -

r e c a l l m emor y o f fa i r y ta l es
,
l att i c ed an d g i l ded ,

s p l end i d w i th ext rav a gan t fa n c i e s wh e re ro s e -w a t e r

,

p l a ye d th ro ugh m a rb l e fo u nta i n s s c a tt er i n g sp r a y
,

ove r th e l i tt l e p r i n c es ; i n a wo rd th e r efi n em e n t
,

o f S arace n i c an d barbar i c sp l e n do r i n th e East .

2 08 GI R L WI N TE R I ND I A
’
S IN .

C H A PT E R X I V .

A WEL SH R A REBI T .

DE LH I Fe bru ry 1 4
, a .

H A N K E R i s s ett i n g o u r l u n ch t a b l e ; fo r we -

h a v e d e s ert e d th e t a bl e d kot e a n d d i n e i n ’ ‘

o u r a p a rt m ent s — wh i ch i s m u ch too l o ft y a n a m e
, ,

howeve r fo r a s i tt i ng roo m a d t wo ston e fl o o r e d

,
- n -

d res s i n g room s ad j o i n i n g wh i ch so u nd s r a th er we l l ;
-
,

b ut a l a s ! th e s i d e w a l l s h ave s carc e l y a n y wh i t e
,

“ ”
w a s h wh er e i t o ugh t t o b e t h e wat e r -s up p l y i s
,

co n sp i c uo u s b y i t s a b s e n c e a n d a p l a i n i ro n cot
, ,

made p re sent a b l e b y o u r t r a ve l l i n g -r u gs harmo n i z es ,

w i th th e oth er appo i nt m e nt s o f t h e b es t a c c o mmo

“

’
dat i o n s a t No rth -B rook s .

B u t t o r et u rn to th e l u n ch eo n O u r t ab l e h a s a .

c e nt r e d eco rat i o n o f som e g l or i o u s g ree n i sh o ran ge s ,

bo ugh t o n o u r j o u r n e y ar r a nged w i th b r i gh t l eave s

,
.

T h e fr u i t grown a t L a ho r e v er y m u ch r e s emb l e s
, ,

m a n dar i n s b ut i s l arg e r a n d sweete r a n d cove r ed

, ,

w i th a t h i ck l oo s e Sk i n
,
T h e s ub stan t i a l p a rt o f
.

th e m e a l i n c l u d e d chop s b ro ught i n o n a gr i d i ro n
,

hav i n g fo u r i ro n l egs a n d s everal g roove s c o n v e r g

,
2 10 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

a t fi n e co nt empt fo r wh a t h e Sh a l l e a t and a
a ,

che e r f u l o n e a s t o wh a t h e Sh a l l pu t o n .

Th i s week h a s e n d ed i n o u r m a k i n g o n e g ran d ex
r i
c u s o n to th e K o o t u b — th e h i gh e st p i l l a r i n th e
,

wo r l d Th u s fa r we h a v e st r a yed o n th e ver y b r i n k
.

o f adve nt u re a n d c i rc u m st a n c es hav e n eve r f avo re d

,

a fa l l i n th e st r eam I h av e tho u g h t ma n y t i m es
.
,

how sh al l I b e fo rg i ve n th e l a ck o f h a i r -b readth
e sc a pes ; how acco u n t fo r th e ab s e n c e i n my j o u r
nal o f th r i l l i n g t i ge r sto r i e s i n I n d i a n j u ng l e s ;
how appe a s e th e exp ect a t i o n s o f tho s e who w i sh e d
me a s a fe jo u rn ey a n d at th e s a m e t i m e h e l d a
,

st ron g Op i n i o n th a t my r et u r n m i gh t res em b l e t h e
“
y o u n g l ad
y f rom N i ge r who s m ,
i l e d a s Sh e rod e
on th e t i ge r ; a n d w h e n s h e r et u r n ed f ro m th a t
r i de th e g i r l w a s i n s i d e a n d th e sm i l e o n t h e fac e
, ,

”
o f th e t i ge r . W e we re a l o ng t i m e m a k i n g u p
ou r m i n d s if i t were w i s e t o ven t u r e a twe nt y
-two
m i l e dr i ve i n th e n oo n d a y h e a t an d s u n b u t de
-
,

—
.

t e r mi n e d t o t a ke th e r i sk a n adven t u r e at l ast ;
,

and B s u
. ggest e d th at we t a k e th e t i ffi n -b a sket an d

m a k e a W e l sh r a r eb i t u nd e r t h e K o o t u b Th e .

p ropo s i t i o n w a s i n sp i red an d awok e i n u s a s u d ,

de n h u n ge r . H a l f an hou r lat e r we set out i n

goo d fo rm .

Th e ra i l way st at i o n i s th e ge n eral p rov i s i o n -shop

o f De l h i fo r an yth i n g b es id e s n a t i ve far e ; a n d
w i th f e el i ng s o f pro fo u n d co nt e nt m e n t w e s topped
RU I NS OF T EM PLE N EAR K OO TU B .
2 12 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I IVD I A .

page f rom t h e Tho u s a n d an d O n e N i ghts an d

i t w a s o n l y ye st e rd a y th a t th i s sc en e w a s peop l ed
by thes e M ogu l s — not l i k e th e p yr a m i ds fa r d own
, ,

i n th e beg i n n i ng o f h i sto r y b ut yest e rd a y i n , ,

o u r t i m e a l mo st Th e road i s w i de shade d co n ,

t i n u o u sly .

H u ma yo o n , th e fa the r o f A kb a r who i nh e r i t ed ,

H i n d u st a n i s b u r i ed i n a m a gn i fi cen t tomb h a l f
, ,

w a y b et wee n D e l h i a n d K o o t u b wh i ch tomb i s a ,

sket ch i n s a n dsto n e o f h i s m arb l e p a l a c e i n D e l h i ,

wh e re h e m et h i s fat e O n e eve n i ng h a v i n g a s
.
,

c e n d e d to th e roo f t o s a y h i s p r a yers h i s foo t ,

s l i pp ed a n d h e f e l l l i fe l es s o n th e pavem ent b e low

, .

What a l ove of l uxu r y an d magn i fi c e n ce is shown

by th e des c e n dant s of M a h mood Ga z n a who , p l u n

d e re d th e t emp l es o f th e R a j p ut s ,
an d c onvert ed
th em to th e re l i g i o n o f th e Ko ran . An h ou r l a t er
’
w e s i ght ed th e K o o t u b s m i n a r tower i ng two h u n ,

d red a n d th i rt y-e i ght feet i n h e i ght I t i s d i v i de d .

i nto fi v e s to r i es con s i st i ng o f co nvex fl u t i n g s e a ch ,

sto ry fi n i sh e d b y a ca r v ed g a l l ery a n d th e who l e ,

st ru ct u re e mb ro i de r ed w i th ve r s e s f rom th e Ko ran
a n d d es i g n s o f ar a b e squ e work Th e g u i de book
- .

s uppo ses i t to b e t h e mo st pe rf e ct towe r i n th e

wor l d a n d dec l a res i t s carv i ngs to b e a s f re sh a s
,

t hou gh th e y were o f yest erday s d a t e tho ugh i t i s ’

S ix h u n d r ed a n d fi ft y year s s i n c e i t w a s b e gu n b y
K o o t u b u d -d i n i n t h e l att e r part o f th e twe l fth
-
 A WE L S H R A RE B I T.
2I 3

cent u r y an d fi n a l l y comp l et ed b y A l t mi s h h i s s u c
, ,

c es so r a bo ut 1 2 1 0 A D ; a n d i t ha s looked down
,
. .

o n an u nb roke n M ahom etan sw a u nt i l the M ut i n

y y ,

i n 1857 . Go i ng o n yo u p a s s t h e o l d H i nd u fo r
,

t re s s o f L a l ko t i n r u i n s b u t st i l l m a s s i ve a n d
,

i mpo s i n g M o sque s a n d p a l ac e s o f H i nd u a n d
.

M a ho m et a n arch i t ect u re i nj u re d b y S a r a ce n i c i n
,

vad e rs Show t r a c e s o f won der fu l c a rv i ng i n a n

,

i nd e sc r i b a b l e v a r i et y o f f r i ez e s c a p i t a l s a n d co l
, ,

u mn s . C l os e b y st a n d s th e t owe r o f A l t m i s h — th e ,

m ost b e a ut i f u l mo n u m e n t I h a v e s e e n i n I n d i a an d ,

al so th e o l d e st .I n th e c ent re o f th i s m o squ e i s
a c u r i o u s i ro n p i l l ar st a nd i ng twent y— , two f eet
above th e gro u n d ; n o do ubt t h e gu i d e w a s r i ght
i n s ayi ng I t w a s e rect ed b y on e Raj a h Bhar a to
,

com m emo r a t e th e d e fe a t o f th e B a h i l ka s n ear th e ,

”
s eve n m o uth s o f th e I n du s i n 3 60 A D ,
M uch . .

m o r e a sto n i sh i ng i s th e fa ct t h a t th e an c i e nt H i n
d u s co u l d fo rge a p u re i ro n b a r h e a v i e r than ,

an th a t h a s b e e n f orged u nt i l o u r t i m e What
y .

p l e a s ed m e m ost we re th e i n sc r i pt i on s i n S an s c r i t ,

wh i ch I t r a ced w i th my fi nge r ke ep i ng i n m i n d th e ,

’
tho ught th a t B ha r a s workm e n who h a m m ered th e
l ett ers l i tt l e tho ugh t th a t th e i r sk i l l wo u l d b e p re
s e rv e d an d gu a rded b y a conqu ero r wh o w a s n e i th er
Pe rs i a n no r T a rtar b ut th e B r i t i sh L i on
,
.

H e re u nde r th e shadow s o f S a rac en i c a rch es

, ,

where i n th e i r t i m e o f g lo r y no i n fid e l wo u l d have
2 14 A GI RL ’
S WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

'

b e e n p erm i tt ed to t ak e a st ep n o w n e st l e s u n d er ,

som e l ove l y t r ees c lo s e b y th e b eau t i f u l K o o t u b a

, ,

l i tt l e that ch -roo fed b u nga l o w ; a n d h er e we m a de o u r

W e l sh rareb i t I n a fe w m i n ut es th e basket w a s
.

u n p ack ed an d th e l u n ch sp re a d o n th e p i a zza
, ,

p rot e ct e d f rom t h e s u n an d d u st b y bambo o

c u rta i n s
.

H ow do yo u th i nk w e s upp l i ed th e p l a c e o f th e
c h a fi n g d i sh to cook th e ch e e s e
- ? The n a t i v es cook
o n th e gro u n d i n a c l a y h eap s coop ed o u t to ho l d
,

a f e w char c o a l s Th e y u s e e a r t h e r n w a r e pot s a n d
.
,

b ras s p latt e rs ; a n d go i ng i nto a n a t i v e c ook ho u s e -

m e a n s s u ch a r eve l a t i o n o f d i rt a nd u n c l ean l i n es s
th a t n o r ecove r y fo l lo w i ng a fi rs t v i s i t h a s eve r
b ee n reco rd ed .S o p la i n l y we cou l d not vent u r e
, ,

to cook th e chee s e cz l a n a t i v e A ft e r m u ch d i s .

c u s s i o n w i t h o u r g u i de h e b rough t u s a t i n sh eet
,

w i t h hot co a l s ; a n d h er e i n th e exc i t em e n t o f th e
mo m e nt B a n d I o n o u r k n e es b egan t o st i r th e
.
, ,

m ixt u re i n o u s u c e pan wh i l e th e smok e c u r l ed

r a -
,

tow a rd s t h e I n d i a n s ky an d l u r i d flam es l i t u p
,

th e fac es o f o u r aud i enc e W e h a d a c row d o f .

n at i ve s e rva nt s wat ch i n g th e op er a t i on s an d had a ,

st ro ng s u sp i c i o n t hat o u r cook i ng ver y m u ch l ow

e r e d o u r d i gn i t y i n th e i r e yes They l ooke d .

on wo n de r i n gl y no t u n de rst a n d i ng h ow a E u ro
,

pean co u l d vo l u n tar i l y choos e to wo rk i f h i s s e r

van t were t h e r e to do i t fo r h i m ; an d I fa n cy t h e y
2 16 GI R L WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A S IN .

vant who ho l d s a l a nt er n to l i ght o u r foot step s

, ,

abou t a qu a rt er o f a m i l e th ro ugh t h e n a rrow l a n es

o f th e nat i ve town S top p i ng b efo re a l ow a n d
.

r a th er m ean a p p ear i ng hou s e w e e nt e red a room ,

wh e r e t en o r m ore p e rs on s we r e s i t t i ng a bo u t i n
g ro up s o n th e floo r s mok i ng hook a h s , W e fi l ed .

past th es e d u sk y figu r es h a l f h i dd en b y th e s moke , ,

to ou r p l ac e o f ho n o r a s l i ght l y ra i s ed d a i s a rch ed
,
’

o ff th e room Th e ap a rt m e n t w a s s m a l l a n d c o v
.
,

e red b y a c a n v a s carpet ver y m u ch s o i l ed b y m u d d y

f e et . M a n y l amp s o f d i ff e re n t d es i g n s o ld la mp s

a n d n ew l amps r u st y l am p s an d d i ngy l a mps

,

h u ng f ro m t h e c e i l i n g Th e w a l l w a s d eco rat ed .

w i th h i gh l y co l o red adv e rt i s em e n t c a rd s an d v er y
anc i e nt E ng l i sh ch romo s b ro ugh t w i th g re a t a u ,

d a c i t y i n c l os e r e l at i o n s w i th ve rs e s f ro m t h e
Koran I t i s al tog eth e r th e mo st p r i m i t i ve am u s e
.

m e nt h a l l o n e co u l d i m a g i n e b u t t h e m or e i n ,

t e r e st i n g
o n t hat a c co u nt .

T h e ent e rt a i n m e nt w a s Ope n ed at once by a na

t i ve h a n d i ng u s b u n ch es of r os e s t i ed w i th f resh
gras s es w h i ch h e p a s s ed
, ,
on a l arg e t ray Th i s .

was fo l l owed u p b y f r equ en t o ffer i ng s o f co n t e o

t i o n ery of t h e nat i v e sort wh i ch w e po l i t e l y t ast ed
,

i n a m om en t o f cou rage an d th e n r eg ret ted A l l ,

.

th i s t i m e th e rob i ng o f th e Na ut ch g i r l s fo r
t he per fo rman c e w a s go i ng o n q u i t e i n form a l l y
b e fo re ou r e yes ,
n o d r op -c u rta i n b e i ng d ream ed
NA UT C H G IR LS .
 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

u n earth l y a tmospher e a g i r l aro s e an d cam e toward s

,

u s w i th an i n d i ff ere n t a i r a n d th e rem a i n s o f he r
d i n n er st i l l ro l l i ng a ro u nd u nde r h e r tong u e Th i s .

y ou ng wom a n wa s re all
y qu i t e prett y her s l i ght ,

figu re u n d u l a t i ng s low l y w i th ever y st e p Her .

dre s s has l ong r e d S l eeve s s t u d de d w i th j ewe l s ,

flower s a n d p rec i o u s sto n es ; a f u l l Sk i rt fa l l s to

,

h er a nk l et s . Th e sweetest l i tt l e bare feet j u st

peep e d f rom u n der th e go l den p l eat s o f h er Sk i rt ,

an d th e l i tt l e b rown to es h a ve e a ch a go l d hoop ,

wh i ch d i d n ot l ook b i z a rr e b u t n e a t a n d e ffect ive

, .

S h e wor e a gr a ce fu l t u l l e ve i l drap ed f rom th e ,

h e a d ; and he r ears w er e we i ght ed dow n b y ch a i n s

an d p endant s som e o f wh i ch a l so ado r n ed he r n ec k
,

and ha i r a l l j i ng l i ng i n t i m e w i th ever y movem en t

,
.

The I t a l i a n cast a n et s are rep l a ce d b y s i l ve r b el l s

“
abo u t th e a nk l es wh i ch ,
ch i m e l i gh t l au ght e r
a ro u n d th e rest l e s s f eet S h e ra i s es he r b eau t i
.

fu l hand th e p a l m s an d fi nger s p a i nt ed ro s y red

, ,

a n d beg i n s to p ro p e l h er s e l f i n t i m e to th e m u s i c .

S o fa r i t i s j u s t a s yo u ha d expect ed T h e dan
, .

c i ng w a s th e fi r st d i s a pp o i nt m ent H e r e wer e a l l
.

th e b est d a n cer s i n D e l h i an d t hes e w ere th e fa

,

mo u s d a n ces .Th e g i r l s m ove att i t u d i n i z e an d

, ,

pos e bu t do n ot dan c e
, I t w a s very t i resom e th e
.
,

repet i t i o n o f each dan c e b y o n e o f th e fo u r N au t ch

g i r l s ; a n d wh en w e wer e i n fo rm e d at th e en d o f
an ho u r that th e i r rep e rto i re w a s exhau s ted an d ,
 A WE L S H RA RE B I T . 2 19

th ey co u l d o n l y repe a t th e p rog r a m m e we p rom p t l y ,

d e cl i n e d F a r prett i er wer e th e st ro l l i ng N a utch

.

g i r l s o f t h e st reet w h o d a nced u n de r o u r w i n dow

,

to -d a y wear i ng b eaut i f u l ro s y co st u m es g l i tte r i ng

, ,

f ro m h e a d to foot i n t i n s e l a s p a ng l ed ve i l st re a m
,
'

i n g f rom th e h e a d l i k e an I t a l i an Teg z n a ere /2

°

, .

Th ey look up w i th a s m i l i ng g l an c e th e i r eyes ,

spark l i ng a n d b r i ght g i ve a gr a c i o u s s a l aam an d

, ,

b eco m e a t o n c e e n t i re l y a b so rb ed i n th e d a n c e ;
th e i r s l en der fo rm s b en d an d sway an d pos e and ,

post u re s fo l l ow i n qu i ck s u cc es s i on b ut w i th wh a t
,

gr a ce wh a t a r t what l ove l y c u rv es an d i nfi n i t y o f
, ,

b ew i t ch i ng att i t ud es ! Th e ch a rm d ee p en s i nto s u r
p r i s e ; asto n i sh ed yo u c l a sp yo u r h a nds a n d watch
,

b reath l es s l y a ch i l d i sh figu re t a k e a g r a ce fu l pos i

t i o n th row b a ck h e r h e a d s i nk i t s low l y to the
, ,

g ro u nd p i ck u p a s i l ver a n na w i t h h er wh i t e t eeth
, ,

a n d r i s e a g a i n w i tho u t a pp a ren t e ffort o r e nt a ngl e

,

m e nt i n her f u l l d r a per i es I t w a s a s c en e th e
.
,

co lo r a t mo s p h er e a n d e ff ect a s i f t a ke n f ro m a
, , ,

f r a m ed G erom e i n th e L uxembou rg ; a ft e r th i s I ,

f e l t th a t b e fo re I sho u l d ag a i n s e e a n yth i n g s o p e r
fe c t T i m e wo u l d i ndeed hav e a chan c e t o th row
,

“ ”
a dart at m e .
2 20 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

C H A PT E R X V .

J EYP O RE , T H E C I T Y O F T H E R A J PU T S .

Fe bru a ry 2 1 .

H E R E Shal l I fi n d a w i sh i ng -c a p that w i l l
t r a n sport m e 62 vo l o n t e t o th i s ros eat e c i t y ?
’

Fan cy a s ev en -g a t ed w a l l top p e d b y sto n e t u rret s

,

b etween p i erce d s cr een s e n c l os i n g a b road a i r y

, ,

c i t y b u i l t o f p i nk -a n d -wh i t e st u cco an d m a rb l e I n .

mom ent s yo u l i ken i t to a co n fect i o n e r y V i l l a ge ,

a ro s y f o n d u w i th s ugar deco r a t i o n s ; a n d th e c i n
n amon sk i n n e d
- nat i ve s to g i ngerb r e a d me n Th e .

a rch i t ect u r e i s c a l l e d H i nd u S arac en i c b u t th e ,

st l e
y fi l l s yo u r m i n d m u ch mo r e w i th i m a ges o f
fa i r y tal es . Th ro ugh th es e b ro a d st r eet s lan es , ,

a n d square s noth i ng ch a nges ; ev e r y b u i l d i ng i s

m e l low a n d so ft l y o ut l i n ed w i th Op en A rab esqu e
,

g a l l er i e s edg i ng th e fl a t roo f s J eypo r e i s l i ke

.

a noth er wo r l d I m i ght as we l l wr i t e a bou t B a b y

.

l on S odo m o r N i n eveh D r i v i ng t h ro u gh th e tow n

, ,
.

o u s e e j u st wh a t w er e th e o cc u p a t i o n s o f an c i en t
y
C o r i nth o r a n y ot he r B i b l i cal tow n H e re o n th e .
,

s t reet co r n ers sq u att i ng o n th e grou n d ar e th e

, ,
A GRA I N BAZAAR .
 j E YP O R E , TH E CI T Y O F TH E R AJ P UTS . 22 1

mo n ey ch a ngers th e i r p i l es o f p i ce a n d co i n spre a d
-
,

o u t o n a ma t b e fo re th em A n I nd i a n ru p ee i s
.

d i v i ded i nto S ixt ee n a n n a s ; each a n n a re p resent s

fo u r p i ce ; e ver y p i ce th re e p i es ! a nd from th e
,

i n i t i a l l ett ers o f t h e m eta l co i n a ge — r up ees a n ,

n a s p i c e — o r i g i nat ed th e exp res s i o n

’

, Do n t c a re a ,

rap . I n t h e b a z a ars t h e lowest co i n s are red u ced

,

to sh e l l s wh i ch ar e aga i n s ubd i v i d e d i nto seed s

, ,
!

th e cu r renc y o f th e n a t i ves .

Farther o n ar e th e gr a i n -deal ers s i ft i ng l ovel y ,

grai n s th rough a st r a w pan wh i ch ,

fa l l on th e bar e
gro u n d ; wh i l e a b o y w i th a l on g b amboo po l e w i th ,

a b i t o f m u s l i n o n th e en d i s f r i ght en i ng aw a y h u n
,

d red s o f crows to p reve n t th e i r stea l i ng th e s catt e red

kern e l s I n th e m i dd l e o f th e o p en s qu a re s p i geo n s
.

ar e fe a st i ng i n great n u mb ers wh er e th e cam e l s r e st ed

w i th t he i r b u n d l es o f g r a i n th e n i ght b e fo re There .

ar e fi ft y t i m e s as m an y h e r e a s i n V e n i ce Th e .

st reet s are fi l l ed w i th m e n a n d wom en b u s y a n d , ,

co nt ent ed a pp a r ent l y w i th p r i m i t i ve l i fe I t wo u l d .

b e ve r y n a t u r a l fo r a n an c i en t H eb rew to t a ke u p
h i s a bode h ere I f h e wo u l d go t o th e ho u s e -top to
.

p r a y h er e a r e th e fl a t roo fs m a de fo r th e p u r p o s e ;
,

i f h e c a red fo r exerc i s e h e co u l d mou n t o n e o f

,

th e d rom ed a r i es wa i t i ng abo u t th e st reet s and i n ,

th e p l e a s u r e o f a gent l e t rot cam e l -b a ck fo rget , ,

th e i n s p i red m o noton y o f th e E a st e r n h a r p .

Wom en i n coral -t i nted sar i s dyed a l ove l y Shad e

,
222 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

cal l ed S a n g a mi r gr i n d i n g flo u r w er e a com mo n
, ,

p i ct u r e Two g i r l s s i tt i ng o n th e road s i d e a sto n e

.
,

b etwee n th em th e i r two arm s c l a sp ed abou t a p e g

,

i n th e cent re ar e gr i n d i ng a h e a p o f gr a i n wh i ch
, ,

ro l l s o ut h i gh er a n d h i gh e r f rom u n de r th e sto n e ,

an d m ixes w i th t h e du st o f th e st reet Th e i r va .

r i o n s m ovem en t s ar e ch a r m i g n - l ean i n g fo rward

,

a n d r et reat i n g t o t h e eve n b u zz o f t h e sto n e as i t

t u r n s o n i t s wood en a xi s .

Th i s i s th e m o st O r i en t a l tow n w e h ave s ee n .

M en st i l l wear th e i r armo r — sh i e l d a n d swo rd s

,

o f st ee l i n l a i d w i th i ro n an d go l d a n d a r e a ct u a l l
, y
mou nt ed o n hors e s t h e i r s a dd l es s t r l p e d w i th S i l ver
,

an d go l d an d g a y f r i n ges hang i ng from th e re i n s

,
.

E l ephan t s t r ead so ft l y abo u t th e st r eet s wear i n g a ,

do ub l e co l l a r o f t i nk l i n g b e l l s to war n th e p eo p l e .

I n th e even i n g th e i r keep er s b r i n g th em to dr i nk
f rom th e f resh s t reet fo u nta i n s A t o n l y o n e we l l
.

i s th er e a mo der n fa u cet f o r draw i n g w a t e r Th e .

M a hom et a n s l i k e a l l th e nat i ves ar e u tt er l y Oppos ed

, ,

t o t h i s i n nov a t i o n an d co n t i n u e to draw th e water

,

b y s l ow l y l ett i ng down a rop e to wh i ch i s a ttach ed ,

a l e a th e r b u ck et ; fo r t i m e i s n oth i ng to an E a st er n
m i n d n e i th er i s th e s a v i ng o f i t
,
O n e even i n g a .

f u n n y th i n g h a ppe n ed wh i l e a ma n w a s d r a w i n g up
th e b u ck et ; w i th o n e tw i s t th e th i rst y an i mal s e i z ed
th e fa u cet t u rn ed o n th e wat e r an d a pp l yi n g h i s l on g
, ,

t ru nk to th e fresh -r u n n i n g st ream co nt en t ed l y drank ,

2 24 A CI RL S
’
WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

d u l y ro st ed
a its
fl esh th e fi r e b e fo re S ign to -a
,

a l l m en th a t h e h a d b ecom e sove re i g n over a l l th e

l a n d o f th e R a j p ut s No w fo r fi v e c ent u r i es th e
.
,

c l an s have ab so l ut e l y n o h i sto r y t hat yo u c a n fi n d

o u t ; a n d th ere fo r e l i ke oth er n a t i o n s i n l i ke c i r
, ,

c u ms t a n c e s w e are l eft to s uppo s e t h em co rr e

,

s p o n di n g l y h a p p y .

B ut a l l th i s t i m e K s ka t nzj f a s (war r i o rs ! were t ra i n

i n g fo r f ut u re Op p o rt u n i t i e s i n th e u s e o f sp e a r s a n d
bows th e B r a hm i n s ch a n t e d th e sac r ed V ed a s a n d
, ,

th e co n d i t i o n o f th e poo r S u dras d i d n ot d i ff e r m a
t e r i a l l y f ro m th e peasan t o f to d a y ; fo r th e gr e a t Ep i c -

h a s d r a w n t i gh t th e E a ster n l i n e o f c a st e wh i ch h a s ,

n eve r ye t b e en s l a cke n ed Fo r a l read y th e B r a hmi n s

.

( pr i e st s ! a pp ear i n th e h i gh est rank f o r th e y p ro ,

c e e d e d f rom t h e h ea d o f B r a hm a ; then t h e K e b a

t r zj /a s o r so l d i ers ; n ext i n i mpo rt a n c e sp ran g f ro m

,

h i s m i ght y me rch ant s who rep

’

arm s th e Va zsya s , or ,

r es e n t th e C reato r s th i rd cho i c e ; wh i l e th e S u d r a s
’

o r c u l t i v a to r s we r e o n l y g ive n th e chan ce t o c raw l

,

o ut f ro m u n de r h i s feet ; a n d th e rest o f mank i n d

we re l e ft to cast th e i r l ot i n o n e o f th es e fo u r
d i v i s i on s .

Th e re cam e a t i m e howeve r wh e n th e m i ght y, ,

f
ar i sto c rac y o f R a j pu t a n a e nd u red th e l la - sa i d t o ,

b e th e co n s equ e n c e o f pr i de A bout th e t en th c en .

t u r y o f ou r e r a th e o l d R a j pu t k i n gdom w a s i nvade d
b y a st ro n g rac e o f Tartars ag a i n st whom the r e was ,
 j E YP O RE , TH E CI T Y OF TH E R Aj P U TS . 22 5

n o stan d i n g Th e e l eph a nt s em p l o yed b y th e H i ndu s

.

to ch a rge th e e n em y m a d den ed b y th e M a ho m et a n
,

arrows t u rn ed o n th e R a j p u t a rm y a n d t r a m p l ed
, ,

t hem down A ft e r th i s th e a nc i e n t c i t i e s o n t h e
.

J u m n a and G a n ges we r e de s erted a n d th e i r ch i e f ,

fo u nded h i s co u rt at C h i to r wh e r e th e o l d fo r ,

t res s s t i l l st a nd s i n th e c e nt r e o f th i s n a t i ve s t a t e .

Tho ugh b e l o ng i ng t o th e co nqu e red r a c e th e M a h a ,

ran ee o f C h i to r n ever co n s e n t e d t o m a k e a mes a l /i ’

a n ce w i th th e Mo g u l A t th i s t i m e A l -u d -D ee n
.

was S u ltan o f D e lh i an d was b e nt o n a conqu est o f

,

C h i to r i n fl u en ced b y ce rta i n co nvent io n a l r e a so n s

,

wh i ch m ak e l ove and war al most i d e nt i c a l i n h i s

to r y Th er e ar e al ways th e sam e w ro n ged a ffe c
.

t i o n s to b e r i ght ed an d a l wa ys t h e s a m e m e l a ncho l y
,

m a i d to b e res cu ed ; an d th e m i ght y sword i n v a r i

ab l y do es i t — a c u stom wh i ch eve n mod ern c i v i
,

l i z a t i o n has a s ye t t r i ed i n v a i n t o d i spe l .

A st ran ge th i ng i s s a i d n ow t o h ave h a pp en ed ; bu t
I w i l l not a s k yo u to a ccept t h e sto r y wh i ch r e ,

l at e s th a t du r i n g th e s i ege o f th e i r t own fo r th e
pos s es s i o n o f t h e H i n d u p r i n ces s th e R a j p ut s a t ,

C h i to r r e s i st ed th e Maho m et a n s u nt i l th e y were
sta r ved o ut an d t h er e w a s n o al tern a t i ve b u t to
,

d i e o r s u r ren der A t l a s t th e y reso l ved t o pe rfo rm

.

a t er r i b l e r i t e o f s e l f s a c r i fi c e wh i ch w a s not u n
-
,

frequ ent i n an c i en t t i m es a n d w a s k nown a s th e ,

f o l zn r
. H uge p i l es o f t i m be r we re ra i s e d up i n a

15
2 26 WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A C I RL S IN .

dec l i v i t y a n d s e t o n fi re Th e wom e n a p p ro a ch ed
,
.

i n a f u n er a l p roc es s i on and th r ew th em s e lves i n to ,

th e fl a m es Th e m e n a r r a ye d th em s e l ves i n s a f
.

f ro n -co lo re d garm ent s an d r u sh ed o u t o f t h e fo r,

t res s swo rd i n han d

,
Mo st o f th e warr i o r s wer e
.

c u t to p i ec es ; b u t a fe w es c a p ed t h ro ugh t h e M a
h o me t a n l i n e s an d m a d e th e i r w a y to th e A r a r u l l i
,

Mo u nt a i n s Th e flam e a n d s m ok e o f th e ho rr i b l e
.

sacr i fi c e w a s st i l l r i s i ng a bove th e h ecatomb o f

f em al e v i ct i m s w h e n A l u d -D ee n m a de h i s w a y -

th rou gh th e h eap s o f s l a ught ere d R a j p ut s i nto th e

old ro ck fo rt res s o f C h i to r .

H i s H i gh n es s th e M a h a ra j ah o f J eypo r e i s s a i d
, ,

t o b e th e th i rt y-n i nth desc e n d a nt i n u nb roke n l i n e

f ro m R a ma who was h i m s e l f a n i n c a r n a t i o n o f
,
.

V i sh n u t h e m o s t com m en d a b l e m emb e r o f th e
,

H i n d u t r i n i t y ; an d i t i s c ert a i n th a t th e d yn a st i e s
o f J e ypor e h a ve occ up i ed th e th ro n e s i n c e th e en d

o f th e t e nth c ent u r T h es e p ret e n s i on s t o a

y . r e

m ot e a nt i qu i t y a r e p l easa n t l y a ck n ow l e dged b y d a y ,

“
i n th e hom a ge pa i d t o S u r ya -V a s n i th e Ch i l d re n ,

o f th e S u n .

N ear t h e T r i p o l i a G at e i s th e i mp e r i a l res i d e n c e
o f R o g i t S i ngh — a p er f ec t s ub j ect fo r t h e b r u sh o f
,

Z a m a co i s t h e so ft l i gh t fa l l i n g o n ro s y a rch e s
,
-

a n d pavem e nt s a n d t ower s th e g ree n est o f g a rde n s ,

mak i n g b eaut i fu l e ve r y o p e n Spac e b u t a l l th e

.
.
,

t i me ow i hg i t s g reat e st charm t o th e r i ch w a rm ,
 j E YP O R E , TH E CI T Y O F TH E R Aj P U TS . 227

co l o r. Th e st a b l es a r e th e fe a t u re o f th e p l a c e ,

an d cam e a s a r e fresh i n g re l i e f f rom t em p l es a n d

p a l a c es ; a n d a s we h a d s ee n b ut fe w fi n e ho rses i n
I n d i a I re g ret n ot b e i n g a b l e to s e e t ho s e more
,

tho ro u g h l y Th e M a h a r a j ah e l eph a nt s n u mb e r a bo u t
.

o n e h u ndred Th e fight i n g o n es we re ke p t i n co n
.

fi n e me n t ; b ut oth ers wer e b e i n g exe rc i s ed l e i s u re l y

i n o p e n spac e s i n th e pa l a c e re a r — g re a t sp l end i d , ,

c re a t u res w i th l a rge e a rs p a i nt ed go l d a n d red i n

, ,

d i a mo nd p a tt e rn s a n d man y rows o f t i nk l i ng be l l s
,

h u ng arou n d th e n eck We sto p ped th e c a rr i a ge

.
,

“
an d B . a n d I e xc l a i m ed Th i s i s th e b e st o f al l
, ,

’1
not a st e p fa rther w i l l we g o ; a n d th e mothe r
nodded a pprov i n gl y a s u s u a l ,
.

I n n o oth e r c i t y i n th e wo r l d i s th e arch i t ect u re

s o fa nt a st i c s o aud a c i o u s l y o r i g i n a l
,
Eve r y qu a rt e r .

o f J e p o re h a s a n i n fi n i t e n u mbe r o f qu a i n t m i naret s
y
an d f rescoe d g a l l e r i es pecu l i a r t o i t s e l f I t i s th i s .

f resh n e s s a n d o r i g i n a l i t y wh i ch a tt r a ct s yo u The re .

a r e n o m a rv e l s l i ke th e T a o r th e e a r l M u sj i d a t
j P
D e lh i , eve ryth i ng h e re i s s t u cco b u t h a s a n i n de ,

s c r i b a b l e b e a ut y a l l i t s own Th e m ost be a ut i fu l o f
.

th e p a l a c es a s i t soars a bov e eve r yth i n g e l s e i s th e

, ,

“ ”
H a wa -M a h a l th e H a l l o f th e W i n ds
,
I t r i s es .

l i k e a fa i r y p a l a c e o f f resh a l mon d b l os som s fi v e ,

s to r i es a n d a l l t a p er i ng g race fu l l y tow a rd s th e so ft
,

b l u e s k y w i th h u n d red s o f l i tt l e b a l co n i e s a n d
,

overhang i n g w i ndows a n d k i o sk s eve ry o n e s c ree n ed ,

2 28 WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A CI RL S IN .

w i th f retwo rk topped w i th i n n u m erab l e s m a l l fl a gs

, .

i
Th i s s th e roya l z e n an a — an u n known an d mys
,

t e r i o u s p a l ace a s erag l i o an i mm e n s e m o n a s te ry
, ,

“
who s e re l i g i o n i s p l e a s u re an d who s e god i s th e
”
M a h a r a j ah No wo n de r an E n g l i sh d u ch es s wh en
.
,

v i s i t i n g J e ypo re c raved a s i ght o f th es e pe a r l s o f

,

th e E a st — th e Per i s th e N o u r ma h a l s an d th e
, , ,

C ashm ere be a ut i es A s to r y c u r r en t i n J e ypo re

.
,

r e l at es th a t her H i gh n es s o f Co n n a ugh t s o b o rr i
fi e d t he M ahar a j ah b y a requ est to s e e h i s h a rem
that i t requ i red th e u t mo st d i p l om ac y o n th e part
o f E n g l a n d to a pp eas e hi s i nj u red d i gn i t
y .

A nothe r d a y w e s pe n t at th e J e ypo re m u s e u m ,

-a n ew h a l l b u i l t i n mem o r f th e v i s i t o f th e
y o

Pr i nc e o f Wa l es a n d fi l l e d w i th Sp ec i m e n s o f I n
,

d i a n work man sh i p Th e garde n s have cages fo r

.

t i gers l i o n s a n d a l mos t ever y s pec i es o f I nd i an

, ,

w i l d be a st Th e t i ge rs are m an -eat e rs ver y b eaut i

.
,

f u l l y st r i p ed a n d qu i t e u n l i ke th e an i m a l s o n e s e e s
,

i n men a ge r i es We s toppe d to s e e th e ch e etah

.
,

the h u n t i ng l eopard — emp l oyed b y spo rt sm e n to

,

h u n t th e an t e l ope I t w a s t i e d to a ch a rpoy b y t h e
.

road s i d e. Th e l eopard grac e f u l l y co n s ent ed to b e

st roked an d adm i red ; an d s o eas i l y h a s th i s hab i t
b ecom e s eco n d n at u r e i n th e East I p u l l ed o u t my ,

p u rs e a n d to s s ed som e p i c e to hi s c h e e t a h s hi p o n
th e spot expect i ng to h ear th e an i m a l e x c l a i m i n
,

“
th e u s u a l wh i n e Back sh eesh M em S ah i b back
, , ,
2 30 A GI R L ’
S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

Fe bru a ry 2 2 .

O n e i s n eve r t i red o f h ear i ng abo ut th es e R a j p u t s ;

an d I l i st en e d to -d a y to a sto ry f ro m th e l i p s o f a
S cotch m i n i st e r o f m uch i n fl u en ce h er e — a man ,

’
who s i t s o n t h e M a har a j a h s l e ft at th e d u rbars H e .

sa i d ,
“
Yo u know my f r i en d who was b u r n ed ye s
t e r da y ? H e wa s th e s eco nd p ee r o f th e re a l m d e ,

s c e n d a n t o f a g reat fam i l y a R a j p ut dat i ng fa r , ,

b a ck to th e ver y c re a t i o n o f th e s u n A fe w d a ys .

ago th ree o f u s we re st a n d i ng a t hi s b eds i d e — th e ,

p r i m e m i n i st er R a o fi rst nob l e o f J eypo re a n d

, , ,

m ys el f M y f r i en d h a d b een ver y i l l b u t f ro m my
.
,

sm a l l m ed i c a l k now l edge I tho u g h t h i m b ett er an d ,

s o a s s u red t h e yo u ng nob l e ma n H e w a s a sp l e nd i d .

f e l low ; a n d o ft e n I wo u l d w a l k to hi s ho u s e i n th e
w a rm s eason a n d fi n d h i m i n th e eve n i ng aft er a
, ,

m eet i n g o f th e C o u n c i l o f S t a t e S i tt i ng a s i s th e , ,

c u stom o n th e floo r i n h i s n a t i ve wh i t e d r a per y

, ,

o f fi n e l i n en re a d i ng f rom th e B i b l e
,
O ften a n d .

o ften I have fo u n d h im so read i ng . B u t now h e

wo u l d not l i st en t o o u r a s s u ran c e s of recovery . He
waves h i s han d s i m pat i ent l y t o d i sm i s s s u ch a
thou ght a n d s a ys Tak e m e my f r i en ds to th e
, ,
‘
, ,

field of b a tt l e . I o n ly a sk t o d i e i n act i o n l i ke
my n cesto r s ; o r move m e aw a y f ro m a b e d o f
a

s i ckn es s to d i e a lo n e b rave l y an d not a b u rden to

, ,

y o u , m y b est f r i en d s Th en I sa i d ’
Tha k o o r i t
.
,
‘

i s t r u e yo u r an ces to rs d i e d i n batt l e b ut i t i s fo r ,
 j E YP O R E , TI I E CI T Y O F TI I E R AJ P UTS . 231

ou to b e s o b r a ve as to s u ffe r s i ckn es s a n d Sho w

y ,

o u rs e l f to b e a t r u e a n d b rave R a jput Th e n ’

y .

h e qu i et l y i n st r u ct ed u s to h a ve h i s son s t a k e a
h i gh d eg re e at G overn m e n t C o l l ege H e w a s v e ry .

wealth y own er o f v i l l a ge s and g reat e st a te s We

, .

to l d h i m s m i l i ng l y h e wo u l d soo n b e we l l ; b u t h e
h ad a p res en t i m e nt at that mom e nt that h e sho u l d
d i e To d ay my f r i e n d i s d ead
. .

“
S om e years a g o h e c a m e to m e S l a pp ed m e ,

‘
gayl y o n th e back an d s a i d ,
Pad r e S a h i b i n
, ,

my fi e ld s I have a gard e n o f ch i l l i es No w .

th e y a r e sown I w i l l w a t ch them ; and whe n th e

,

su n ha s t u rn ed t h e f r u i t to c r i m son I will ,

s e n d th e ch i l l i es t o th e m a rket A n d th i s I s a i d .

“
whe n th e fi e l d w a s sown A l l th e p ro fit s I w i l l
,

”
g i ve to P a d re S ah i b ; and h ere a r e o n e h u n
d re d a n d S ixt y ru p e e s e i ght a n n a s a n d t wo p i c e
, , .

W i l l yo u t ake t hem Padre S a h i b ? Th en a tho u g h t

,

s u dde n l y cam e t o m e a n d I s a i d Wou l d yo u l i ke

, ,
‘

’
f
m e t o u s e th i s mo n e y o a B i b l e c rt
r - a ? A s yo u
‘

A n d w i t h th e mo n e y I ha d a
’
w i sh Pad re S a h i b
,
.

c a rt mad e and pa i d a ma n fo r o n e ye a r t o d r i ve i t ,

s e l l i ng the book s a bo u t th e st reet s a of J e ypor e , —

l i v i ng mo n u m e nt t o th e ma n yo u k now who w a s ,

b u rned yest e rd a y i n h i s own gard e n S om et i m es .

e i ght y B i b l e s a r e th u s so l d i n o e mo nth
n — and ,

‘
h e w a s a h e a th e n .
232 GI R L ’
S WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

C H A PT E R X V I .

A N E L E P H A N T R I D E T O A M BE R .

Fe bru a ry 2 3 .

H I S mo r n i ng I w a s awake n e d ver y ear l y b y a

vo i c e c a l l i ng t h ro ugh t h e k eyho l e o f my b ed
“ ’
room doo r S ix o c lo ck M em S a h i b ; t i m e f o r
,

chot a -h az r i. A n d soo n a fte r an O r i ent a l b ro u ght

me i n a t r a y w i t h t e a a n d to a st w i th wh i ch b eg i n s
,

th e d a y fo r I n d i a a s i nvar i a b l y a s th e s u n B ut we .

w er e qu i t e d i s re spect f u l t o th a t b re a kfast s c a rce l y ,

g l a n c e d at i t e a ge r n ot t o l o s e a m om ent o f th e
,

p l e a s u r e b e fo r e u s ,
— a n e l ephan t r i d e to A mbe r ,

t h e a n c i e nt b u t d es e rt ed cap i t a l o f J e yp o re .

Th e m orn i ng w a s ve r y b e a u t i f u l t h e S ky c l ear
, ,

ever y g r ee n th i n g f r e s h n e s s i t s e l f O u r road w a s
.

bord e red b y t l l cact u s p l ant s m a k i ng a wo nde rf u l

a -
,

h edg e a l l b u dd i n g re a d y i n anothe r we ek t o b u rst

, ,

out i n r ed flowe rs . Th e d r i ve wo u n d th ro u gh a
v a l l e y o n e i th er s i d e w er e mo u nt a i n s gr a y a n d b l eak
, ,

l i k e th e cast l e crown ed peak s o f Lowe r I t a l y H u n

- .

d red s o f pe a co cks were fl yi n g f rom br a n ch es o f th e

man go -t re es al i g ht i ng o n th e dom es o f th e mo squ es
,
 AN E L E P H A NT R I D E TO A M B E R
. . 233

an d Sh r i n e s s o f requ e n t i n th e E a st I nd eed th e .
,

mo st st r i k i ng charact er i st i c o f eve r y s c e n e i n No rth

e rn I nd i a i s a ro u n d ed dom e ; i t i s w h a t th e w a y
s i de c ro s s i s t o I t a l y an d th e wh i t e ch u rch S p i re
,
-

t o New E ng lan d Up i n th e t a m a r i nd s t roo p s o f

.

mo nke ys ch a tt e r a n d f ro l i c ; a n d a mong t h e a n c i en t
carv i ng s gre en p a rrot s g rown f e a r l es s b y l o ng s e
, ,

c u r i t y have s ett l ed i n flo cks a s i f b y som e s ec ret

, ,

i n st i n ct j u st wh er e t h e i r co lo r wo u l d harmo n i z e
an d co nt r a st w i th th e asok a -t ree s wh i ch o n l y b lo s ,

s o m th e i r po et s s a y wh e n to u ch e d b t h e f oot f
, , y o

a B rahm i n g i r l ; and th e r e we re p l e nt y o f p a rt r i dge s

al s o per f ect l y u n mo l est ed an d w i tho u t g a m e l a ws
, ,

t oo. O ve r o u r h ead s p i g eon s fl y i n so l i d m a s s e s ,

a nd d i p dow n a n d sp r e a d a l i ght g r a y p a t ch over

t h e cou nt r y Th e who l e p l ac e i s b u zz i ng h u m
.
,

m i ng an d r eson a nt w i th t h e w i l d l i fe o f b i rd s a n d
,

a n i m a l s i n t h i s g r e a t f ree Z oo Now a n d th en a .

larg e b i rd st a lks f e a r l es s l y a lo n g o n th e edge o f

th e m a rsh es —a t em pt i ng m a rk fo r th e spo rt sm a n
,
.

I f a g u n we re r a i s ed i t wo u l d b e i n st a nt l y lowered
,
.

W hy ? I t i s a l yre -b i rd wh i ch m ates ,
o n l y on c e
i n i t s l i f e ; an d i f shot th e l i v i ng b i rd wo u l d a l
,

w a ys b e a w i dow Th e ro a d i s l i n ed w i th st re a m s
.

o f c r e a k i n g w a go n s o r e / e/I ds
,
w i th p u rd a h s l owered
, ,

a n d d r a wn b y s u pe rb wh i t e b u l l ocks S om et i m e s .
,

th e wo men h i dd e n f rom S i ght m a n a g e t o get th e i r

, ,

l i tt l e look a t th e o u t s i d e wo rl d th rou g h a larg e

2 34 A
’
C I RL S WI NTE R IN I ND I A .

s l i t Shap ed l i ke a b utto n -h o l e qu i t e i n th e c e nt r e
, ,

o f th e c u rt a i n ; b
y i n s ert i ng th e i r sm a l l fi ng e rs a n d ,

b y d i n t o f sp r e a d i ng t h em q u i t e w i d e t h e y c a n ,

s ep a r a t e t h e ope n i ng a l i tt l e m o r e t han t h e l a w
”
al l ows .

A ft e r a d r i ve o f fo u r m i l es w e r each ed th e e no r
mo u s b l a ck e l eph a n t s p rov i d ed b y t h e M a h a r a j ah o f
J e yp o r e who we r e r est i n g an d w a i t i n g fo r u s u n d er
,

a b a n a n t re e
y
-
What. S p ort we h a d i n mo u nt i ng !
Now ever s i n ce I a rr i ved i n I n d i a I h a ve b e e n p i n
,

i n g t o r i d e a n e l e p h a nt H e r e a t l a st i s o n e b e for e
.
, ,

me ,
— a sp l e n d i d b l a ck f e l low ; h i s e a rs d e co rat ed ,

l i kew i s e h i s fi n e h ead w i th p a i nt o f b r i ght est co lo r s

,

i n qu eer I n d i an r ug d e s i gn s- Th e n ext t h i n g w a s
.

t o mo u nt Th e ke ep e r t ou ch ed h i m o n hi s fo re
.

h e a d w i t h h i s hook ; th e b eas t ob ed i e nt l y b egan t o

l ower h i m s el f b ut very d e l i b er a t e l y a n d we n t down
, ,

o n h i s k n ees st i l l l ook i n g l i k e a mo u nt a i n
,
We .

d i d n ot w a s t e a m om e nt B w a s th e fi r st t o l i e
. .

o u t l uxu r i o u s l y i n t h e ho u dah i n d r e a m y r epo s e ,

a n d I w a s soo n b e s i d e h e r Th e ma ho u t m an a ge s
.

hi s e l e p h a n t c ra ft w i th a Sharp t wo po i nt e d hook-
, ,

an d o n e p r i ck i s th e s i gn a l to r i s e .

The l i n e o f co u nt r y we f o l l owe d t hat m o rn i n g w a s

ext r a o rd i n a r i l y p rett y a n d E a st er n Th e d i st a n t .

h i l l s ro l l ed gent l y down to t h e gro u n d ove r wh i ch

we rod e Eve ry n o w a n d th e n w e p a s s ed a s t r i n g
.

of cam e l s each o n e t i ed b y th e no s e t o th e ta i l
,
of
236 WI NTE R I ND I A
’
A C I RL S IN .

Th e e l ephan t w i n d s up th e nar row ro a dway a l ,

mo st b r u sh i ng u s o ff at th e n ar row po rt a l s ; an d
a b e l l r i n g s t o a n no u n ce that w e h a v e reached
t h e v er y top A n e cho r epe a t s th e so u nd a n d th e
.
,

f r i ght e n e d pe a cocks fl y bu zz i ng th ro ugh th e a i r ,

l i ke a l on g com et -a swe ep o f g re e n a n d b l u e
,
.

S u dd e n l y w e r e a l i z e t h a t th e r e i s not o n e h u m a n
b e i n g fo r m i l e s wh o c a n sp eak E n g l i sh o r a n yth i ng
e l s e exc ept U rd u S hank er h a d r em a i n ed i n ch a rg e
.

o f th e carr i a ge .H e r e w e we r e i n C e nt ra l I n d i a ,

w i th two E a st ern s e rvant s a n d a ke ep e r o f e l e

p h a nts ,
on th e l a n d i ng of t h e sta i rw a
y to a d e
s e r t e d p a l ac e w i th o n l y th e s t i l l an d s i l e n t c r ea
,

t u re s who l i ved th e r e mov i n g abo u t a s i n a d ream .

A n d th e fa i nt fa r -aw a y b e l l r a ng o n c e a s i f t o
, ,

s u mmo n u p t h e d ead s p i r i t s o f warr i o r R a j p ut s

“ ”
who l i v ed h er e a ges a g o S u m mo n i s th e word
.

wh i ch s e em s mo st i n tou ch w i th th e e n chant e d
p a l ac e ; a n d we h a d a s t rong co nv i ct i o n th a t th e y
wo u l d b e o n h a n d i f n eeded Th e pal a c e s u r ro u n d s
.

a l a rg e squar e where h u n d re d s o f b u ffa lo e s ar e

,

s acr i fi c e d ever y year t o K a l i A s e rvan t com es

.

up ,
an d mot i o n s u s t o fo l l ow h i m S t r a i ght way we.

mo u nt a l o ng sta i rway a n d at th e en d a r e s i g n a l l ed
,

“
t o r emov e o u r shoe s ; fo r th e p lac e o n wh i ch we
s t a n d i s ho l y g ro u n d F ro m a d a rk r e c es s g l a re s
.

a dark -b l u e i mag e i n f u l l sk i rt s o f go l d c l oth

,
It .

is D ev i th e D est roye r
, . Th e pr i e st w a s, as u s ual ,
 AN E L E P H A NT R I D E TO A M B E R . 237

i d l i ng about ; t w o wom e n we re p i o u s l y p ro st r a t ed
i n a do rat i on . Th e sh r i n e w a s l i n ed w i th fl owers ,

an d sputt e r i ng can d l e e nd s b u r nt l ow i n b r a s s s a u
-

c ers ,
— a b i t o f I t a l y i n I nd i a n m a squ erad e A n i cy
.

marb l e floor w a s ch i l l i ng u s t h ro ugh a n d t h ro ugh .

We s top p ed o n l y l ong eno ugh t o to s s a r up ee t o

each att endan t pr i est an d we re soo n w a lk i n g
,

th rough e nd l es s m a rb l e roo m s . Th e n a m e s h a ve
S l i p p ed my m emo r y . I n t i m e th e g u i d e ma r
s h a l l e d u s t o a l ov e l y apart m en t wh er e a sh i mm e r
,

of l i ght flooded th e room ,

— a m i rro r -room ; ex
q u i s i t e l y c a rv ed S a r a ce n i c a rch es were s t udd ed
w i th go l d -edged b i t s o f l ook i ng -g l a s s Th e room
.

”
w a s known as th e S h i sh Mahal .

F rom an u p p e r g a l l e ry yo u l ook down o n th e

mo st won d er f u l V i ew i n a l l th e wo rl d J u st b e low .

i s an em e r a l d l a ke dott ed w i th i s l a n ds W here w i l d
, ,

p e a co cks w i th s u n l i t p l um a ge d a rt fro m th e th i ck
sh rubb e r y Th e n e a r h i l l s s eem t o fo l d a bo u t th e
.

l i tt l e brown -a n d -g ray t own o f A mb e r as i f t o p ro ,

t eet h er p rec i ou s o l d r u i n s Th e gree n o f spr i ng

.

and s u mm er i s o n l y h al f s uggest ed no w b ut th e ,

warm so i l -t i nt s m a ke u p fo r th e f resh g ree n o f

o u n g gr a ss A l l s i zes o f m o nk e s r u n w i l d ove r
y .
y
t em p l es a n d n i ch es a n d j um p from t ree t o t ree i n
,

p erf ect l i bert y to fo l l ow the i r o w n w i l l an d w i sh .

The d i st a nt h i l l s a r e e n ch a n t i ng l y b eaut i fu l ; eve ry

p i n n a c l e c rested w i th cast l es v i o l et an d b rown i sh
,
238 WI N TE R I ND I A
’
A C I RL S IN .

i n th e so ft at mo sph ere of a n I n d i an mo r n i ng . We
can t r a c e th e ro a d we h a ve j u st p a s s e d over a n d ,

can s e e m o re e l eph a nt s c u rv i ng down t h e h i l l

s ides . I n a noth e r mom e n t we are t a k i ng o n e l i n
ger i ng fa rewe l l l ook a t A mb e r a n d p a s s o u t an d ,

b e yo n d t h e p a l ac e g a t ew a y S udd e n l y c lo s e b y
.
,

“
my S i d e a h a r sh vo i c e bre a ks th e st i l l n es s !
,
Good
c r i t i c s re f u s e t o ackn ow l edg e t h e ch a rm o f A mb e r .

It s p a l a c e i s a mer e mas s o f st u cco a flo r i d ho rro r

,

”
t o b e es c a p ed from a s qu i ck l y a s p o s s i b l e It wa s .

o n e o f th e to u r i st s whos e e l eph a nt we h a d s ee n
,

approach i ng read i ng fro m a g u i e b ook

,
d - .

BO M B A Y F bru ry 2 8
, e a .

A t t he E spl a n a d e H ot e l o n c e m o re W e t rav .

e l l e d f rom J e pore d i rect stop p ed at A h m ed a bad

y ,

fo r d i n n er an d t h e s eco n d mor n i n g pu l l ed up i nto

,

C h u rch g a t e S tat i on Bom b a y

-
,
M r K fo u n d u s
. . .

out ,
a n d aske d u s to d i n e at th e Y a cht C l ub ; an d

we sa i l ed w i t h h i m o n e aft e r no on t o E l ephant a
I s la nd .

W e l e ft th e A po l l o B u n de r abo ut th re e i n th e
a ft er n oo n ; an d at t h e e n d o f an ho u r an d a hal f
arr i ved at a l ow wood y i s l a n d n e a r l y oppo s i t e t o
Bombay Th e l a n d i ng -p l a c e i s s o d i ffic u l t o f a p
.

pro a ch o n acco u nt o f th e po i nt ed rocks n e a r t h e

,

sho re a n d th e sh a l lown es s o f th e wat e r th a t we w er e ,

t o l d t h e nat i ves fo rm er l y wad ed o u t t o th e boat an d ,

2 40 A GI R L ’
S WI N TE R IN I ND I A .

wo u l d r et rac e th e j o u rn ey st ep b y st ep b e fo re i t
b ecom e s a d re a m an d t h e m emo r y o f i t a w i sh A .

’
j o u rn e y com e s t o a n e nd ; ever y o n e s p a s sag e i s
t a ken hom ew a r d soo n er o r l at e r b y st e a m e r o r ,

’
by C haro n s F e rry ; b u t t h e ev ent s a n d hap p e n i n g s
have b eco m e a part o f o u r l i ves h a ve i n fl u en ced ,

th em fo r ev e r Two lo ng l i n e s o f s mok e b low ove r

.

“ ”
th e harbo r f ro m th e st e a m sh i p G a n ges bo u n d fo r ,

Eg ypt Y e s i t i s a fa ct t hat th i s i s o u r l a st n i gh t
.
,

i n Bomb a y a n d t h e l a st p a g e o f my j o u rn a l
,
How .

h u r r i ed an d i mper f ect m
ar e t h e s e i p r e s s i o n s l — the
f a i nt est h i n t o f re a l f e e l i n g S hal l I ever b e ab l e
.

to t r a ce th e s u bt l e po et ry a n d m a g i c o f I n d i a f rom
a b i t o f w r i t i n g a s cr a p o f an ho u r h e r e o r a d a y
, ,

th e re whe n a l l i s l e ft u n s a i d th a t co u l d m ak e i t a
,

r e a l i t y ? A n d a bove a l l sh a l l a n yth i ng i n th es e
, ,

pag es i n d u c e yo u to go t o th e E a st ? I f not ,

wh a t have yo u ga i n ed f rom A G i r l s W i nt e r i n
’

”
India ?

T H E EN D .