NIFT Jodhpur

Fabric Fundamentals
MID TERM ASSIGNMENT

Submitted by: Tripti Badlani | Submitted to: Dr. Chetram Meena | September 21, 2020
 INDEX
 Introduction

 Woven fabrics

 Fiber and Yarn Analysis

- Understanding fiber properties

- Yarn construction and weaving methods
- Identification of fibers
- Determining of yarn ply count and
composition
- Determining of yarn twist/ count, Weave
Analytics

PAGE 1
 INTRODUCTION
Fiber is a hair like strand of material. It is a substance or a unit of matter that is extremely
long in relation to its width, at least 100 times longer than it is wide.

Fiber or fibre is a class of materials that are continuous filaments or are in discrete
elongated pieces. They can be spun into filaments, thread, string or rope. They can be
used as a component of composite materials. They can also be matted into sheets to make
products such as paper or felt. They are very important in the biology of both plants and
animals, for holding tissues together. A textile fiber is a unit in which many complicated
textile structures are built up is said to be textile fiber. A textile fiber is the smallest visible
unit of any textile product. Fibers are flexible and may be spun into yarn and made into
fabrics.

Yarns are continuous thread-like strands composed of fibers that have been twisted
together. There are various types of yarn, from flat and dull to slubby and lustrous.

Fabric is made from yarns and are either woven or knitted. Springs Industries and Milliken
& Company are two of the largest U.S. mills. The range of fabric types and weights is
tremendous, fulfilling a variety of consumer demands.

Range of Tests to Identify a Wide Range of Fibres –

Microscopic examination of the longitudinal and cross sections of the fibre, Burning test
in a flame, and Solubility tests in chemical reagents. In addition to these three tests, the
following four tests also provide useful information: Element identification, Density
measurement, Determination of melting point, and Feeling test. In practice, identification
tests are used in combination.

PAGE 2
PAGE 3
 WOVEN FABRICS

Woven fabric is any textile formed by weaving. Woven fabrics

are often created on a loom, and made of many threads
woven on a warp and a weft. Technically, a woven fabric is
any fabric made by interlacing two or more threads at right
angles to one another.
Woven fabrics only stretch diagonally on the bias directions
(between the warp and weft directions), unless the threads
used are elastic. Woven fabric cloth usually frays at the edges,
unless techniques are used to counter it, such as the use
of pinking shears or hemming.
Fabrics that are woven do not stretch as easily as knitted
fabrics, which can make them advantageous for many uses.
The first fabrics made by humans are woven fabrics.
Originally, woven fabrics were only for clothing. But, as
humans began to evolve, kings and religious leaders would
decorate their homes with woven fabric tapestries with
intricate weaving techniques to depict stories and, even
record historical events.

PAGE 4
Fiber and Yarn Analysis

 SATIN
Fiber: -
Which fiber does Satin consist
of?
Satin usually consists of silk fiber which comes
under Natural> Protein> Filament fibers. Satin can be produced from
a range of fibers like rayon, polyester, cotton, viscose etc. The type of
Satin I’ve used consists of polyester.

Burning Test of the fabric

The fabric shrinks as it melts while burning slowly. It smells like
burning hair. This observation comes from the time I almost burnt my
hair while straightening them.

PAGE 5
Visibility test
It has a glossy appearance. It has a luxurious smooth surface. It
looks metallic and Shimmery. It is dull on the other side of the fabric.

Yarn: -
Is it a filament yarn or a spun yarn?
It is a Spun Yarn.

What type of twist is it?

It is a Z type twist

Weave: -
 It is created out of low-twist yarn by using the process of twill weaving. The weft
threads, which are four horizontal yarns, are covered by a single lengthwise yarn, leading
to fewer inter lacings, which give satin its smoothness.  

EPI: -
.156

PPI: -
.48

GSM: -
100-150 GSM

PAGE 6
 PRODUCTS SATIN CAN BE
USED IN

Satin is more than just a soft, shiny fabric often used for
fancy dresses. A satin weave can comprise many types
of fabrics, and its uses number beyond bridesmaid dresses
and gowns. Satin refers to the weave, not the textile, and
most fabric characterized as satin has a soft, shiny finish that
can be seen anywhere from evening bags to upholstery.

It is commonly used in lingerie, nightgowns, blouses,

and evening gowns, but also in boxer
shorts, shirts and neckties. It is also used in the production
of pointe shoes for use in ballet. Other uses include interior
furnishing fabrics and bed sheets.

PAGE 7
  DENIM

Fiber: -
The most commonly used material for denim, which has been used
here is cotton fiber. It comes under Natural> Cellulose> Seed Hair.

Weave: -
Denim is a cotton warp-faced textile in which the weft passes under
two or more warp threads. This twill weaving produces a diagonal
ribbing that distinguishes it from cotton duck.

GSM: -
130-550 GSM

PAGE 8
 PRODUCTS DENIM CAN BE
USED IN
It is a sturdy, durable textile made out of cotton fibers so it is typically
used in apparel manufacturing, but, it also finds alternate usage as
application based textiles in seat covers, mobile cases, insulation
textiles, etc.
While a denim predecessor known as dungaree has been produced
in India for hundreds of years, denim itself was first produced in the
French city of Nîmes under the name “sergé de Nîmes”.
The most common denim is indigo denim, in which the warp thread is
dyed, while the weft thread is left white. As a result of the warp-faced
twill weaving, one side of the textile is dominated by the blue warp
threads and the other side is dominated by the white weft threads.
This causes blue jeans to be white on the inside. The indigo dyeing
process, in which the core of the warp threads remains white, creates
denim's signature fading characteristics. Now there are a variety of
colors available for the same ranging from faded grey to jet black.

PAGE 9
  COTTON
Fiber: -
The fiber which has been used here is obviously cotton fiber. It
comes under Natural> Cellulose> Seed Hair.

Weave: -
Plain-weave is the most common type of weave, where the weft
yarns alternately pass over and under the warp yarns to create
strong, hard-wearing fashion and furnishing fabrics.

GSM: -
84-136 GSM

PAGE 10
 PRODUCTS COTTON CAN BE
USED IN
Cot ton is kno wn for its versatility, per formance and
na tur al co mfor t.

Cot ton ’s stren gth a nd absorbency makes it an ideal fabric

t o ma ke clot he s and hom ewares, and industr ial product s
like tarp au lins, t ent s, hotel sheet s, army unif orms and
e ven a stro nau ts’ in flight space suits. Cot ton f ibre can be
woven or knitt ed in to fabrics including velvet, cor dur oy,
chambr ay, velour , jer sey and flannel.

Cot ton ca n be use d to create dozens of diff erent fabric

t ype s for a rang e of end- uses, including blends with other
na tur al f ibre s like wool, and synthetic fibres like
po lyester .

I n a ddition to t ext ile products like under wear, socks and

t- sh irt s, co tt on is a lso used in fishnet s, coffee filt ers,
t ent s, bo ok bind ing and archival paper .

 LINEN

PAGE 11
Fiber: -
Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant. Linen is very strong and
absorbent, and dries faster than cotton. Because of these properties, linen is
comfortable to wear in hot weather and is valued for use in garments.

Weave: -
Linen fabric is woven on a jacquard loom, using a mix of plain and satin weaves.
The fibers are usually flat and reversible, which gives damask fabric a smooth
texture with a reversible pattern.

GSM: -
237 GSM+

PRODUCTS LINEN CAN BE

USED IN
PAGE 12
Many products can be made with linen: aprons, bags, towels (swimming, bath,
beach, body and wash towels), napkins, bed linens, tablecloths, runners, chair
covers, and men's and women's wear.
Today, linen is usually an expensive textile produced in relatively small quantities.
It has a long staple (individual fiber length) relative to cotton and other natural
fibers.
Linen fabric has been used for table coverings, bed coverings and clothing for
centuries. The significant cost of linen derives not only from the difficulty of
working with the thread, but also because the flax plant itself requires a great deal
of attention. In addition, flax thread is not elastic, and therefore it is difficult to
weave without breaking threads. Thus, linen is considerably more expensive to
manufacture than cotton.
The term "linens" refers to lightweight undergarments such as shirts, chemises,
waist-shirts, lingerie (a cognate with linen), and detachable shirt collars and cuffs,
all of which were historically made almost exclusively out of linen. The inner layer
of fine composite cloth garments (as for example dress jackets) was traditionally
made of linen, hence the word lining.
Linen uses range across bed and bath fabrics (tablecloths, bath towels, dish towels,
bed sheets); home and commercial furnishing items (wallpaper/wall coverings,
upholstery, window treatments); apparel items (suits, dresses, skirts, shirts); and
industrial products (luggage, canvases, sewing thread). It was once the preferred
yarn for hand sewing the uppers of moccasin-style shoes (loafers), but has been
replaced by synthetics.
A linen handkerchief, pressed and folded to display the corners, was a standard
decoration of a well-dressed man's suit during most of the first part of the 20th
century.
Currently researchers are working on a cotton/flax blend to create new yarns
which will improve the feel of denim during hot and humid weather.  Conversely,
some brands such as 100% Capri specially treat the linen to look like denim.
Linen fabric is one of the preferred traditional supports for oil painting. Cotton is
popularly used instead, as linen is many times more expensive there, restricting its
use to professional painters. In Europe, however, linen is usually the only fabric
support available in art shops; in the UK both are freely available with cotton being
cheaper. Linen is preferred to cotton for its strength, durability
and archival integrity.
In the past, linen was also used for books (the only surviving example of which is
the Liber Linteus). Due to its strength, in the Middle Ages linen was used

PAGE 13
for shields, gambesons, and bowstrings; in classical antiquity it was used to make a
type of body armour, referred to as a linothorax.
Because of its strength when wet, Irish linen is a very popular wrap of pool/billiard
cues, due to its absorption of sweat from hands.
In 1923, the German city Bielefeld issued banknotes printed on linen. United States
currency paper is made from 25% linen and 75% cotton.

 CHIFFON
Fiber: -

PAGE 14
Chiffon is primarily made from cotton, silk or synthetic fibers like nylon, rayon and
polyester. It is a lightweight plain-woven fabric with mesh like weave that gives it
transparent appearance.

Weave: -
It is a lightweight plain-woven fabric with mesh like weave that gives it
transparent appearance.

GSM: -
75-125 GSM

PRODUCTS CHIFFON CAN BE

USED IN

PAGE 15
Chiffon is most commonly used in evening wear, especially
as an overlay, for giving an elegant and floating appearance
to the gown. It is also a popular fabric used
in blouses, ribbons, scarves and lingerie. Like other crêpe
fabrics, chiffon can be difficult to work with because of its
light and slippery texture. Due to this delicate nature, chiffon
must be hand washed very gently.

Since chiffon is a light-weight fabric which frays easily,

bound or French seams must be used to stop the fabric from
fraying. Chiffon is smoother and more lustrous than the
similar fabric georgette.

 MUSLIN
Fiber: -
The fiber which has been used here is obviously cotton fiber. It
comes under Natural> Cellulose> Seed Hair.

PAGE 16
Weave: -
Muslin is a loosely woven cotton fabric. It's made using the
plain weave technique, which means that a single weft thread
alternates over and under a single warp thread.

GSM: -
203 GSM

PRODUCTS MUSLIN CAN BE

USED IN

Muslin is a versatile, multi-purpose cloth used in

dressmaking, furniture polishing, theatre sets and even

PAGE 17
medicine. It is a healthy, organic fabric and can be put to
good use around the home without spreading chemical
residue and, most importantly is reusable and stops the
cycle of waste. In the form of Saree, the fabric adds shimmer
and texture to the overall appearance. This fabric is also
used to create Kurtis, Salwar Kameez, Scarves, Belts, and
accents.

The use of this fabric in layering an attire can be seen

aplenty. It adds volume to a garment and is often used as
the base fabric for embroideries and appliques. This sheer
fabric is also used to manufacture home furnishing products
such as embellished sofa covers and curtains.

 Chiffon is most commonly used to weave Sarees, Dresses

and Scarves.

 VELVET

Fiber: -
Velvet consists of silk, cotton, or synthetic fibers.

PAGE 18
Weave: -
Velvet is made in the pile weave, of silk, cotton, or synthetic fibers,
and is characterized by a soft, downy surface formed by clipped
yarns.

GSM: -
34-600 GSM

PRODUCTS VELVET CAN BE

USED IN

Velvet is a smooth and soft cotton fabric, and is generally used for
special and luxurious garments, such as awesome dinner jackets.

PAGE 19
However, due to a multitude of uses, velvet weight can vary from very
light to heavy weight.

Velvet is used In Upholstery, wall hangings, dresses, eveningwear,

formal robes, dresses, bedding, hats.

Velvet fabric is popular for evening wear and dresses for special
occasions, as the fabric was initially made from silk. Cotton, linen,
wool, mohair, and synthetic fibers can also be used to make velvet,
making velvet less expensive and incorporated into daily-wear
clothes.

 SHEETING FABRIC

Fiber: -
Sheeting fabric can be 100 percent cotton or a blend of polyester and
cotton. Although,100 percent cotton is more absorbent and
breathable, it wrinkles and will need to be preshrunk before cutting or
sewing.

PAGE 20
Weave: -
Sheeting fabrics are made in different widths. High-quality cotton
sheetings are made in plain weave with a width of 64″ x 58″ and in a
twill weave with a width of 60″x72″.

GSM: -
150-200 GSM

PRODUCTS SHEETING FABRIC

CAN BE USED IN

Sheeting fabric is used for more than just bed linens. Due to

the availability of extra wide widths, sheeting fabric is most
often used to make bed linens but its light weight, easy care
and versatility make it a popular fabric for quilt backs, linings
and other items. They can be used to make Bed sheets,
pillowcases, blankets, dish towels, bath towels, wallpaper,

PAGE 21
upholstery, skirts, shirts, suits, dresses, luggage, thread,
aprons, bags, napkins, tablecloths, diapers.

 ORGANZA
Fiber: -
Organza consists of Silk or synthetic fibers which give it its sheer look.

Weave: -
Organza fabric is made by Plain Weave.

PAGE 22
GSM: -
24-50 GSM

PRODUCTS ORGANZA CAN BE

USED IN

Organza is a type of lightweight plain weave fabric. This type

of fabric is sheer, which means that it is woven in an
extremely low density that results in a transparent and
relatively flimsy textile. Due to its transparency and high
breathability, organza fabric is commonly used to make
garments that overlay thicker types of apparel, and it is also
occasionally used to make a variety of different types of
household textiles. With organza, you can make gorgeous

PAGE 23
ribbons, flowers, bows, necklaces curtains, draperies,
tablecloths, overlays, chain covers, high-end bridal and prom
dresses.

 KHADI

Fiber: -
Khadi consists of cotton, silk or wool fibers.

Weave: -
Khadi fabric is made by Handloom Weaving.

GSM: -

PAGE 24
80-100 GSM

PRODUCTS KHADI CAN BE

USED IN
Popular dresses are made using khadi cloth such
as dhoti, kurta, and handloom sarees such as Puttapaka
Saree, Kotpad Handloom fabrics, Chamba Rumal, Tussar
silk etc.
Khadi cotton fabric is used to create a variety of Indian
ethnic garments. Most popularly, it is used to create salwar
kameez sets.
Popular dresses are made using khadi cloth such
as dhoti, kurta, and handloom sarees such as Puttapaka
Saree, Kotpad Handloom fabrics, Chamba Rumal, Tussar
silk etc.

PAGE 25
  TAFFETA
Fiber: -
Taffeta is a crisp, plain-woven fabric made most often from silk, but it
can also be woven with polyester, nylon, acetate, or other
synthetic fibers.

Weave: -
Taffeta fabric is made by Plain Weaving.

GSM: -
55-95 GSM

PAGE 26
PRODUCTS TAFFETA CAN BE
USED IN
Taffeta is considered a high-end fabric, with a beautiful,
smooth surface and unique characteristics.
Crisp. Taffeta fabric is crisp and holds it shape well as a
result of the tightly twisted yarns woven together in a plain
weave fashion.
Due to its rich and luxurious feel and appearance, taffeta
is used to make wedding gowns, evening dresses, prom
dresses, jackets and other kinds of party wear. The stiffer
variant of taffeta can also be used to make curtains as the
fabric holds its shape when drawn together, thereby
enhancing the aesthetics of a room.

PAGE 27
  TISSUE FABRIC
Fiber: -
It is a fine fabric either made of silk or man-made fibre. They are
characteristically interwoven with gold or silver threads. It
is produced in rich colours and they are used as women's dress
material, sarees etc.

Weave: -
Tissue fabric is made by Plain Weaving.

GSM: -
250-300 GSM

PAGE 28
 PRODUCTS TISSUE FABRIC
CAN BE USED IN

A fine transparent silk material, used for veils, etc.;

specifically, cloth interwoven with gold or silver threads, or
embossed with figures.
A favorite with women for many years now, tissue fabrics
are well known for their luster and their fine finish. The
tissue fabric skirts that we create for you blend the
traditional strengths of tissue fabrics with fantastic
properties like durability and cost effectiveness.
Surprisingly affordable and easily maintained, tissue is
woven out of a multitude of fibers. The skirt is both wrinkle
resistant and offers excellent draping properties and
sumptuous texture. There is a magnificent grace to the
tissue skirts that have made it a hot favorite among

PAGE 29
 women. The rich sheen is coupled with the fact that,
unlike most other natural fibers, this is not cumbersome to
carry or to maintain. The lightweight nature of the fabric
and its easy elegance make tissue skirts ideal for any
occasion.

 CREPE
Fiber: -
It consists of fibers made from Wool, silk, or synthetic materials.

Weave: -
Crepe is made by Plain Weaving.

GSM: -
80-120 GSM

PAGE 30
 PRODUCTS CREPE CAN BE
USED IN
A silk fabric is originally characterized by a crinkle, puckered
surface formed by highly twisted yarns in the warp or weft or
both. By using ordinary yarns similar crepe effects can also
be produced. Synthetic fabrics also impart crepe effect
finish. It is used for sarees, shirts, women and children’s
dresses. Most crepe fabrics are used for Scarves, shawls,
wraps, dresses, eveningwear, hats, mourning wear, high
fashion, curtains.

PAGE 31
  GEORGETTE

Fiber: -
 Pure Georgette is woven out of Silk yarns, while the
Faux Georgette is woven from Rayon and Polyester.

Weave: -
Georgette is made by Plain Weaving.

GSM: -
60-80 GSM

PAGE 32
 PRODUCTS GEORGETTE CAN
BE USED IN

It is used for blouses, dresses, evening gowns, saris,

and trimmings.
Georgette is made in solid colors and prints and is used
for blouses, dresses, evening gowns, saris, and trimmings.
Georgette has a very light and drapey hand, rendering it best
suited to loose flowing garments and inappropriate for more
structured pieces. Silk georgette is relatively delicate, but
varieties made with synthetic fibers can be more resilient to
damage. The crepe style S- and Z- twist weave makes the
fabric springier and less lustrous than the closely
related chiffon.

PAGE 33
  LAWN FABRIC
Fiber: -
The fiber which has been used here is cotton fiber. It comes under
Natural> Cellulose> Seed Hair.

Weave: -
Lawn fabric is woven by Plain Weaving.

GSM: -
100-250 GSM

PAGE 34
PRODUCTS LAWN FABRIC CAN
BE USED IN
The lawn is a fine sheet, lightweight, crisp fabric either made
of cotton or linen. Various finishes are given to this fabric, in
which the fabric is called by the name of the finish. It is
mainly used as lining in a dress.
Lawn cloth commonly is used for infant wear, handkerchiefs.
dresses, blouses, aprons and curtains. Other uses are
nightwear, underwear, lingerie, collar cuffs and shirting. It is
also commonly used in vestments in Anglican churches,
such as the surplice and episcopal rochet.

PAGE 35