Applying textile coloration and finishing

2016 E.c
 Chapter 1. Identify coloration techniques

1.1. Identifying fiber and Fabric property

What is textile?
Textile means any filament, fiber, or yarn that can be made into fabric or cloth, and the resulting
material itself.

What is textile fiber?

A textile fiber is a unit of matter, either natural or manufactured, that forms the basic element of
fabrics and other textile structures.

“Fiber” or “textile fiber ‖A unit of matter which is capable of being spun into a yarn or made
into a fabric by bonding or by interlacing in a variety of methods including weaving, knitting,
braiding, felting, twisting, or webbing, and which is the basic structural element of textile
products.

 Fiber is a smallest textile component which is microscopic hair like substance that may be
manmade or natural.
 They have length at least hundred times to that of their diameter or width.
 A ―fiber ―is defined as any product capable of being woven or otherwise made in to fabric. It
is smallest visible unit of textile product.
 Fibers are the fundamental units or the building blocks used in the making of textile yarns
and fabrics.

Fiber - The basic entity, either natural or manufactured, which is twisted into yarns, and then
used in the production of a fabric.

Technologists have defined the term Textile Fibers as those fibers which can spun in to yarn or
made in to fabric by interlacing or interloping including a variety of machines like weaving,
Knitting, Nonwoven etc..

According to textile institute, fibers are defined as the units of matter characterized by fineness,
flexibility and high ratio of length to thickness. In a broad sense, the word „fibre‟ is used for all
the types of matter – either natural or manmade, forming the basic structural elements of any
textile fabrics and other types of textile structures.

The essential requirements for fibers to be spun into yarn include a length of at least 5
millimetres, flexibility, cohesiveness, and sufficient strength. Other important properties include
elasticity, fineness, uniformity, durability, and luster.

In general fibers are;-

 Textile fibers can be defined as the textile substance that is very small in diameter in
relation to their length or in other words
 Fiber is the material which is several hundred times longer than its thickness.
 Fiber is the basic component of any textile material.
 There are different types of fibers around us in daily use.
 Fibers with a short length are called as staple fibers, whereas
 Fibers with long length are called as filament fibers.

1.1.1. Classifications of fibers

According to its length fibers can be classified;

 Filament and
 staple fiber
Filament fibers refer to fibers of long continuous lengths, while
Staples refer to those of shorter length, about a few inches long

Staple fiber. Staple textile fibers are shorter fibers that are measured in inches.

Filament fiber fibers are much longer and need larger units of measure to record their length.

As a general rule, all natural fibers are staple length. To give you an idea of their size, here are a
few natural fiber lengths: cotton = ½‖ - 2 ½‖, flax = 2‖ - 26‖ and wool is about 1‖ -18‖ long.

Silk, when unrolled from an unbroken silkworm cocoon, is 1 continuous filament yarn that
measure about 4800 feet long.

According to their sources fibers can be classified;

 Natural fibers and
  Manmade fibers

Natural fibers, which are made from natural sources, plants, animals& minerals.

Manufactured fibers (manmade fibers) which are made from chemicals in factories by the
methods of extrusion process.

 Natural fibers can be classified according to their origin into the following categories:
 Plant fibers
 Animal fibers
 Mineral fibers

2. Man Made fibers

Regenerated fibers
Non-Cellulosic Polymer Fibers (Synthetic Fibers)
Metallic fibers
Rubber fibers

Figure 1.1: Classification of textile fibers based on sources

1.1.3. Importance of Fibers in Textiles

Textile fiber is the smallest component, hair like in nature that can be separated from a fabric.
Fibers can be absorbent [like cotton and rayon], stretchy [like spandex], warm and bulky [like
wool], or very strong and abrasion resistant [like nylon and polyester].

Understanding fibers and their performance is essential because fibers are the basic unit of most
fabrics. Fibers influence product aesthetics, durability, comfort, appearance retention, care,
environmental impact, sustainability, and cost. Successful textile fibers must be readily and
continuously available and cost-effective. They must have sufficient strength, pliability,
length, and cohesiveness to be process.

The characteristics of natural fibers are:

 They can be spun or twisted into yarn to make cloth.
 They can be converted into nonwoven fabrics.
 They are strong and durable.
 They have high moisture absorbing capacity.
 They provide excellent look and feel.
 They are comfortable.
 Biodegradable.

Synthetic fibres are defined by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) as fibres
manufactured from polymers built up from chemical elements or compounds, in contrast to
fibres made from naturally occurring fibre-forming polymers.

Synthetic fibres have the following advantages

 These fibres are strong and durable.
 They are able to retain crease, for a longer duration. They do not wrinkle easily.
 They are resistant to most chemicals.
 They are resistant to insects, fungi and rot.
 They have low moisture absorbency, and hence are easy to dry.
 They do not shrink when washed.
1.4. Properties of Fibres

Length and Diameter of the fibre

Strength
Elasticity
Uniform Dimensions
Spinning Quality

1.2 General properties of textile fibres

Staple Fibres
Natural or manmade or short length fibres which measures in inches or fraction of inch example
3/4 inch to 18 inches except silk all other natural fibres are staple fibres. Staple fibres are of
limited length.

2. Filament
Long continuous fibres strands of indefinite length measured in yards or meters fibres of
continuous length long enough to be used in fabric as such Natural silk filament is 360-1200
meters. Synthetic filaments can be made many kilometres long. The only natural fibre available
is silk.

3. Texture
It is the tactile sensation experienced when hand is passed over a surface. Staple fibres and
fabrics made from staple are lightly rough while filaments and fabrics made from filaments
fibres are smooth..

4. Resilience
It means that when fibre is compressed and later when the pressure is released. It will tend to
return to its original shape. Resistance to compression varies from fibre to fibre. This quality
causes the fabric to be wrinkle resistant with the resistance varying according to the degree of
elasticity inherent in the fibre. Wool has outstanding resiliency while it is poor in cotton.

5. Luster
It is seen when light reflected from a surface. It is more subdued than shine. Silk and synthetics
have luster than cellulosic fibres. In fact synthetics have high luster which is purposefully
removed during spinning

6. Static Electricity
It is generated by the friction of a fabric when it is rubbed against itself or other objects. If the
electrical charge that is not conducted away, it tends to build up on the surface and when fabric
comes in contact with a good conductor a shock or transfer occurs. This transfer may sometimes
produce sparks. This is more feel during hot and humid conditions.

7. Crimp
Wool fibre is more or less wavy and has twists. This waviness is termed as crimp. Finer the wool
more will be the crimps in it. Marino wool will have 30 crimps per inch while coarse wool has
only one or two. This property of having crimps gives elasticity to the fibre.

8. Elasticity
It is the ability of stretched material to return immediately to its original size

Textile yarns

 These fibers are spun into continuous strands called as yarns, by imparting twist.
 Yarns are usually converted into fabrics, either by weaving or knitting.
 Yarns may also be plied and used for certain applications as in sewing and embroidery
threads.
 Weaving involves interlacing of yarns, whereas, knitting involves interloping of threads.
 The process of weaving fabric from threads has a rich history dating back to the Vedic era.
 Most of the fabrics used in clothing or home furnishing are either woven or knitted.
 The process of making yarn is called spinning.
 Yarn can be spun by machine or by hand.
 Yarn used for weaving tends to have a tight twist, smooth surface, and lots of lengthwise
strength.
 Yarn for knitting has a looser twist.

Major Applications of Textile Materials

Apparel: refers to textiles used in dress materials e.g. blouses, trousers, shirts, saris, scarves
etc.

2. Home furnishing: refers to textiles used in home interiors E.g. sofas cushion covers,
curtains, carpets etc.

3. Industrial textiles: refer to textiles used in end uses other than apparel or home interiors
like civil engineering, medical products, automobiles etc. E.g. bandages, filters, ropes, luggage,
parachutes etc.

1.1.5. Identify Fabric properties.

What is a fabric?
A textile fabric is a cloth that has been woven or non-woven (knitted, tufted, knotted, or
bonded together). The components used to make the fabric can be natural or synthetic threads,
yarns, or similar materials. The textile industry utilizes many different types of fabric to create
unique patterns and feels of goods. Fabric is the material that is used to make clothing or
household articles.

Types of Textile Fabrics

Plant-Based Textile Fabrics

Plant-based textile fabrics have been made and used for thousands of years.

The most common plant-based textile fabrics include cotton, linen, hemp, and jute. Let's look at
a few facts about each of these textile fabrics:

Cotton is an all-season fabric that provides breathability and softness. Many people prefer cotton
for clothing and bedding because it generally doesn't cause allergies for those sensitive to other
textiles such as wool or synthetic materials.

Linen is made from the flax plant. Linen is durable, allergen-free, and can be washed by hand.
Because of its durability, linen is used to make tablecloths, curtains, and clothing. The fabric has
an amazing ability to stay cool during warm weather.
Hemp is a durable textile fabric used to make clothing, shoes, home furnishings, and furniture.
This fabric offers UV protection, insulation, and softness that make it ideal for outerwear.

Jute is a natural textile fabric used to make rugs, carpets, twine, sacks, and linoleum. Jute is very
resistant to wear and tear.

Hemp is a durable textile fabric used to make clothing, shoes, home furnishings, and furniture.
This fabric offers UV protection, insulation, and softness that make it ideal for outerwear.

Jute is a natural textile fabric used to make rugs, carpets, twine, sacks, and linoleum. Jute is very
resistant to wear and tear.

1.5.1. Classification of fabrics

 Woven fabrics
 Knitted fabrics
 Non-woven fabrics

Woven fabrics, A woven cloth is formed by the interlacement of two sets of threads, namely,
warp and weft threads. These threads are interlaced with one another according to the type of
weave or design. The warp threads are those that run longitudinally along the length of the fabric
and the weft threads are those that run transversely across the fabric. For the sake of convenience
the warp threads are termed as ends and the weft as picks or fillings.

Structures of woven fabrics

Basic woven structures, there are three basic woven fabric structures. These are,

 Plain structure
 Twill structure
 Satin/sateen structures

Plain weaves /structures

The plain weave is variously known as “calico” or “tabby” weaves. It is the simplest of all
weaves having a repeat size of 2. The range of application of this weave is wide.

The plain weave has the following characteristics:

(i) It has the maximum number of binding points

(ii) The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down.

(iii) The thread density is limited

(iv) Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are limited.

(v) It produces a relatively stronger fabric

Ends uses of plain fabrics

Plain weave finds extensive uses. It is used in cambric, muslin, blanket, canvas, dhothi, saree,
shirting, suiting, etc.

Twill weaves/structures
Twill weaves are the weaves that find a wide range of application. They can be constructed in a
variety of ways. The main feature of these weaves that distinguishes from other types is the
presence of pronounced diagonal lines that run along the width of the fabric.

The basic characteristics of twill weaves are:

(i) They form diagonal lines from one selvedge to another.

(ii) More ends per unit area and picks per unit area than plain cloth.

(iii) Less binding points than plain cloth

(iv) Better cover than plain weave

(v) More cloth thickness and mass per unit area.

End uses of twill weaves/structures

Twill weaves find a wide range of application such as drill cloth, khakhi uniforms, denim cloth,
blankets, shirting‘s, hangings and soft furnishings.

Satin/sateen weaves/structures
Satin is a warp faced rearranged twill and sateen is a rearranged weft faced twill. Thus satin is
the reverse side of sateen weaves. These weaves form an important category of weaves. They are
used in combination with other weaves, particularly in case of ornamented fabrics. The striking
feature of these weaves is their bright appearance and smooth feel. The basic characteristic of
satin/sateen weaves are:

 They are either warp or weft faced weaves.

 Have no prominent weave structures
 Only one binding point in each end or pick
 No continuous twill lines
 Have poor seam strength due to thread mobility
 More thread density is possible in warp and weft
 More mass per unit area is possible
 Have less binding points and more float lengths
 Use of move numbers (intervals of selection) is necessary to construct these weaves

End use of satin/sateen weaves

Satin weaves find a wide range of application such as denim, interlining cloth, ribbons, dress
materials (lustrous), children‘s dress materials etc.

 Dobby cloth is a woven fabric produced on a specialized dobby loom.

 Dobby fabric features a subtle diagonal weave has a soft hand and fluid drape.
 This versatile fabric is perfect for stylish summer dresses, heirloom projects and
children's apparel.
 It can also be used for lightweight curtains, home décor accents and even bedding
accessories.

 Jacquard fabric refers to any type of pattern that is woven directly into the material, rather
than embroidered, printed, or stamped onto the fabric.
 Jacquard can be any type of weave and can be crafted from any type of yarn.
 The most common types of textile fibers used to make jacquard are cotton, silk, and synthetic
fibers.
 Jacquard weave in home decor textiles, upholstery fabric for curtains and drapery, or elegant
duvet covers, because it is stronger and has more stretch than other types of weaves.
 But it's also used in clothing to create long-lasting, utilitarian garments with an avant-garde
flair.
 In some cases, textile manufacturers may also use wool to make jacquard fabric, but wool
yarn is usually reserved for tapestries.

Pile weave is a form of textile created by weaving. This type of fabric is characterized by a
pile—a looped or tufted surface that extends above the initial foundation, or 'ground' weave.

End Uses of Pile Weave Fabrics

Dresses.
Outerwear.
Bathrobes.
Handbags.
Accessories.
Trimmings.
1.4. Knitted Fabrics
 Knitted fabrics are made from interlocking loops of yarn.
 Knitting is the process of intermeshing of loops formed by a single source of
yarn
There are two main types of knitting:

 Weft Knits
 Warp Knits
In weft knitting the loops of yarn are linked across the width of the fabric.
Weft knitting is made using a single yarn. It can be made by hand knitting or by machines.

Characteristics of weft knits:

 The fabric has high elasticity and stretch.

 The loops of yarn trap air which retains body heat to keep us warm.
 The right and wrong sides of the fabric look different.
 The fabrics can lose shape easily.
 Creases fall out easily.
 The fabric can unravel and ladder easily.
 Weft knitted fabrics curl up at the edges when they are cut.

Figure 1.6 weft knitted fabrics

Elements of knitting
Wale: Longitudinal series of loops

Course: Transverse series of loops

Loop: The basic knitted element

Needle: The knitting element
 Sinker: The supporting element for knitting
Feeder: The yarn feeding element
Cylinder/Dial: The device to decide the needle movement

Weft Knitted structures

 Single jersey(plain)
 Rib
 Purl
 Double jersey: Interlock

Warp Knitted Fabrics

 In warp knitting the loops are linked in a vertical direction.
 In warp knitting the yarn loops vertically up the fabric and the process uses many yarns
rather than one. The fabric does not unravel or ladder. It is an industrial process only

Characteristics of warp knits:

 The production system is fast so the fabrics are quick to make.
 The fabric is elastic but it can keep its shape.
 It can be cut and sewn easily as it lies flat when cut.
 It is mainly used with synthetic filament yarns.

Figure 1.7. Warp knitted structures and warp knitted machines

Uses of Knitted Fabrics

Weft Knits
 T-shirts
 Jumpers
 Cardigans
  Sweatshirt fabrics
 Socks

Warp Knits
 Net curtains
 Swimwear
 Terry towelling fabrics
 Patterned tights
 Lace fabrics

Warp knitted stuctures

 Tricoat structure
 Raschel sturcture
 Atlas structure
 Crochet structure

Nonwoven fabrics
Nonwoven fabric is a fabric-like material made from staple fiber (short) and long fibers
(continuous long), bonded together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment.

Summary

1.2. Identifying coloration techniques

Wet Processing of Fabrics
The wet processing is a term that involves the mechanical and chemical treatment to improve
the aesthetic value of the fabric, yarn, fibre.

The wet processing sector can be divided into three distinct sections.

1) Preparation process or preparatory process.

2) Colouration process.

3) Finishing process.

The general process sequence followed for the fabric wet processing is shown in figure 5

Figure 11 Sequential processes for fabric wet processing

Grey Stitching
Same surface stitched together to make it continuous.

Shearing and Cropping

 This process is employed to remove the unevenness present on the surface of the fabric so as to attain
even surface for further processing.

Singeing

The singeing process is carried out for the purpose of removing the loose hairy fibres protruding from the
surface of the cloth as well as from the interstices fibres of yarn that are burnt away with the help of gas
flame, directly impinging on the fabric resulting in giving smooth, even and clean looking face.
There are three types of singeing machines:

1. Plate singeing machine.

2. Roller singeing machine.

3. Gas singeing machine.

 The most commonly used machine is gas singeing machine.

Objects of Singeing

1. To provide smooth and even surface for fine prints.

2. To reduce the pilling tendency.

3. To reduce the fuzzy appearance of the fabric

Desizing process
Sizes are applied to the warp yarns of the woven fabrics to assist the weaving process but must
be removed prior to dyeing or printing. This process of removing the starch from the fabric is
called desizing. Cellulosic and Synthetic fabrics contain sizes to some extent, whereas knitted
fabric does not contain sizes.

Sizing is a necessary operation in which the cotton warps are sized to withstand the stress and
strains during weaving. The size is applied depending upon the type of yarn, i.e., course or fine
or the type of twist S or Z.

To make the wet processing more efficient, desizing treatment is applied which removes the size
content from the fabric. Starches and waxes present in the size paste forms a hydrophobic film
on the surface of the fabric which hinders the further processing such as dyeing, printing. The
methods available for desizing are classified in into root steeping. Enzymatic and acid desizing

Mostly accepted desizing technique in textile industry are enzymatic desizing as it is very safe
and does not cause any damage to the fabric.

Scouring

Scouring is the next process after desizing in which the water insoluble impurities, the natural
fats and waxes present in the fabric are removed. This provides a greater cleaning action to
remove the soiling and staining developed during transportation or storage of the goods. Due to
the removal of these impurities, the absorbency of the fabric increases to the greater extent, this
facilitates further processing functions. There are two methods come into account, which are,
alkali scouring and solvent scouring. Normally, alkali scouring is the mostly accepted process
and sodium hydroxide (NaOH) is applied as alkali.

The results from a well-executed scouring process include:

 A uniformly clean base for dyeing yarns and fabrics in all shade ranges,
 removal of fats, waxes, oils, greases and dirt,
 better textile substrate absorbency resulting in more uniform subsequent processing,
 softening and preconditioning cotton motes for removal in bleaching, and
 A clean, neutral base for finishing.

Bleaching

The scouring process of cotton removes waxes, but other majority of impurities leaving behind
the natural colouring matter. In such situation, bleaching completes the purification of fibre by
ensuring the complete decolourisation of colouring matter.

Hydrogen peroxide is also the most environmentally friendly bleach. It is a very strong
oxidizing agent and must be chemically stabilized during the process in order to prevent poor
bleaching results. However, after the process, hydrogen peroxide will chemically break down in
the wastewater to form only oxygen and water. These components not only are not polluting, but
they actually improve the performance of wastewater treatment systems.

The bleaching process must ensure.

 A pure and permanent whiteness

 Level dyeing properties (there should be no variation in bleaching)
 There should not be any loss in tensile strength due to degradation of cellulose
 Eco-friendly bleaching should be preferred.

Mercerisation

Mercerization is an optional quality improvement preparation process. It is used almost

exclusively for cotton. The main purpose of mercerization is to increases dye ability of cotton
fabrics and studies the effects of strong caustic dye on cotton. The process is carried out with
118% to 20% caustic soda at 20oC to 24oC.

Objectives of mercerisation are as follows.

 To impart luster.
 To impart dimensional stability.
 To improve the strength.
 To increase the capability to accept dye.
 To make the fabric more absorbent.
 To give soft handle.

1.3. Textile coloration techniques

Colouring Materials
Fabric, you see in the daily life has various colours. These colors can be divided in to two
categories - Dyes and pigments. These dyes and pigments are used to impart color to the textile
materials. In order to perform the coloring of the materials, dyes and pigments should have the
following features.

PIGMENTS DYES
Intense color, insoluble in water or & Intense color, must have solubility in water
Common solvents during dyeing stage
Are not made to have substantivity to Must have substantivity to the fiber during
fibers dyeing stage.
Molecular size varies from small to Molecular size must be small enough to allow
large size the molecules to penetrate the fibers.
Stable to further treatments in Stable to further treatment in production and
production & normal use normal use.
Durability depends upon binders used Able to acquire durability to wet treatments.

There are two ways of adding colour to a textile substrate/products these are;-
 dyeing and
 Printing.

Textiles are usually coloured to make them attractive and beautiful. They would appear
extremely dull in the absence of colour. Colour is an extremely important aspect of modern
textiles. The colour of a textile product is a major factor in the marketing and use of that product.
The color of textiles can be used to differentiate groups of people such as uniforms used for
athletic teams, hospital personnel or military organizations. Color can also be functional such as
camouflage or protective uniforms. However, in the modern retail store, the color of textile
products is a major contributor to what is referred to as fashion. The color is very important with
apparel, carpet, upholstery, curtains, drapes, sheets and towels. All of the items are marketed
with an emphasis on their specific color.

Dyeing is the application of color to a textile material with some degree of fastness or
Permanence. The materials which impart the color are known as colorants. When these
colorants have a natural affinity and permanence on textiles, they are referred to as dyes. Dyes
actually migrate or diffuse into the chemical molecular structure of textile fibers in order to
develop the final color of the textile product. The dye-fiber molecular association is also
responsible for the degree of fastness or permanence of the color because of the molecular
attraction between the specific dye and the specific textile fiber; dyes are classified as being fiber
specific. That is, dyes which work on cotton will not work on polyester, nylon, acrylic, wool
and many other commonly used textile fibers. However, because the basic structure of cotton
is cellulose, the dyes which work on cotton will also work on other cellulose based fibers such as
linen, ramie, rayon and Lyocell. It should be noted that the color actually produced on cotton by
any single dye or combination of dyes will not necessarily match the color produced when these
same dyes are used on linen or ramie or rayon. Many unique factors contribute to the color
produced by textile dyeing including fiber properties.

The other colorant used on textile fibers are pigments. Pigments unlike dyes, have no natural
affinity for textile fibers. In order to produce permanent color on textile products, pigments are
bound to the surface of the textile fibers using adhesives or glues which are known as binders.

Dyes are the chemicals that are absorbed into the molecular structure of textile fibers which
produce the color of the molecular structure of textile fibers which produce the color of the
textile product.

 Dyeing is the process which places the dyes inside the fibers.
 A method of giving color to textiles using colouring agents called dyes.
 Pigments are a special case of textile coloration. They require a binder or glue to adhere them
to the surface of the textile fiber.
 Not all dyeing equipment can be used to successfully apply pigments to textile substrates.
 The primary objective of the dyeing process is to produce the shade on the textile substrate
that matches the color standard.

Describe effects of coloration techniques

Dyeing of fabrics

There are various classes of dyes, which are having different fastness properties, affinity,
towards fibres such as direct dyes, Vat dyes, Reactive dyes, Sulphur dyes, Disperse dyes, Acid
dyes and Metal complex dyes.

Textile products are dyed at the following stages:

 Fiber (Excellent)
 Yarn (Best)
 Piece (Better)
 Garment (Good)

Fiber Dyeing

 Involves dyeing the fibers before they are spun into yarns.

Advantages include:

 Good colorfastness
 Uniform color throughout fiber
 Clear, rich colours

Yarn Dyeing

 Involves dyeing the yarns before

Weaving or knitting them into fabric.

Advantages include:

 Good colour absorption

Fabric Examples include:

  Plaids
 Checks
 Stripes

Piece Dyeing

 Involves dyeing the fabric

After it is woven or knitted.

Advantages include:

 Most common dyeing method

 Lease expensive
 Very fast

Disadvantages include:

 Mostly solid colors

 Less dye penetration into the fibers and yarns

Fabric Examples include:

 Solid colored garments

 ―Heathered‖ garments

Garment Dyeing

Involves dyeing the garments

to fill retail orders for requested colors.

Advantages include:

This method is gaining in popularity.

Garment producers can wait and dye only the colors ordered by stores.

Printing of fabrics
 Derived from a Latin word meaning pressing.
 Technically it is localized coloration process- bringing together a design idea, color and
substrate
 Application of thickened pastes containing dyes or pigments.
 Viscosity of paste determines volume of paste transferred to fabric and degree to which it
spreads on and into yarns.
 paste must color all the visible fibers on the printed surface

Printing styles

Two basic styles- direct and indirect.

Direct printing involves transfer of paste containing colorants to appropriate areas of a
fabric.
After drying, required localized dyeing of fibers occurs during steaming or heating.
Washing follows to remove the paste residue.
In case of pigment printing, pigments adhere to fabric surface by cured binder film; no
additional treatment is needed.
Direct printing is the most important type of printing
Indirect printing: either a fabric dyed will be printed with a paste containing
discharging chemicals or dyed after a design area is resisted by chemical, physical or
mechanical means.
Therefore two methods- discharge and resist printing.
Discharge printing: fabric dyed and then printed with paste having chemicals capable of
destroying the color during steaming.
Allows printing of white designs on a ground color of any depth.
If paste contains dyes resistant to discharging agent, these
Resist printing: fabric is first printed with an agent that resists either dye penetration or
dye fixation
During dyeing only areas free of resist agent are colored.
Advantage of this technique is that non dischargeable dyes can be used for the ground
color.
Physical resisting agents prevent dye absorption by fibers and include materials such as
waxes, fats, pigments and resins and also mechanical resists like tying.
They provide a physical or mechanical barrier to dye penetration.
Chemical resisting agents include acids, alkalis, oxidizing or reducing agents.
Describe the process of coloration technique
Types of dyeing

Chemical Classification: The most appropriate system for the classification of dyes is by
chemical structure. Usage Classification: Classification by usage or application

Direct dyes: used for cotton, linen, regenerated cellulose fibers, and some synthetics

Mordant dyes: wool, silk and nylon

Sulphur dyes: cotton

Vat dyes: cotton and cellulose fibers

Soluble vat dyes: cotton, viscose rayon, wool, and silk

Basic dyes: wool, silk and other protein fibers, and some synthetics

Dispersed dyes: acetate and some other synthetics (polyesters)

Azoic dyes: cotton and viscose rayon, acetate and some other synthetics, and silk

Acid dyes: wool, silk, and some synthetics

Methods of Dyeing

1. Batch wise processes: The machine used in this process is jigger, jet dyeing machine

2. Continuous processes: These methods are specified by continuous dyeing range. The basic
units for continuous process are padding, steaming, dry heat treatment and soaping.

Principle of Dyeing

The Textile material is moved in a solution of a Dye, then the dye is attracted to the material and
it is seen that the dye liquor gradually looses its color whilst the Textile material becomes more
deeply dyed.

Basic Steps in Dyeing

 Dissolve or Disperse dye

 Diffuse the dye to the surface of the fiber
 Adsorb the dye "onto" the fiber surface
  Diffuse dye "into" the fiber

Fiber Type
Application Cellulose Protein Polyamide Polyester Acrylic Acetate
Direct  
Reactive   
Vat   
Sulphur 

Azoic    

Acid  
Mordant  
Basic 

Disperse   

Dye Type Fiber Affinity End Use

Direct Cellulosics Low quality Apparel
Fabrics/Lining/Curtains
Acid Protein Fibers Carpet Yarns / Dress Goods
Vat Cellulosics High Quality Curtains, furnishings, shirts,
towels, sewing threads
Reactive Cellulosics Curtains, furnishings, apparel fabrics, towels,
sewing threads
Basic Acrylics Furnishings, apparel fabrics
Disperse All Synthetics Apparel fabrics, bed sheets, carpets

Dye Type Light Fastness Washing Fastness

Direct Poor / Good Poor

Acid Good/Moderate Poor
Vat Excellent Excellent
Reactive Good/Excellent Excellent
Basic Good/Moderate Good

Disperse Good/Moderate Good

Effects of Direct Dyeing Conditions

Printing is a process in which a multicolour effect is produced on the textile at

discrete places where as dyeing completely covers the substrate with colour. The
substances used to colour the textiles can be classified as dyes or pigments.

Dyeing Parameter
The things which influence the effective coloration of textile materials with reactive dye are
called as parameters of dyeing. These include –Temperature, Time, Liquor ratio, pH of the bath
etc. A brief description about them is given below

 Effects of Temperature:
 Effects of pH:
 Effects of Time:
 Effects of Material:

Fabric Printing
 A process for adding color, pattern or design to the surface of fabric.
 It is done on the right side of the fabric with the wrong side being unprinted or much lighter
than the right side.
 Textile printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite patterns or designs. It is
related to dyeing but, in dyeing proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one color
whereas in printing one or more color are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply
defined patterns.
Figure 2.1. General Printing process flow-chart

A typical printing process involves the following steps:

Color paste preparation: When printing textiles, the dye or pigment is not in aqueous liquor,
instead, it is usually finely dispersed in a printing paste, in high concentration.

Printing: The dye or pigment paste is applied to the substrate using different techniques, which
are discussed below.

Fixation: Immediately after printing, the fabric is dried and then the prints are fixed mainly with
steam or hot air (for pigments). Note that intermediate drying is not carried out when printing
carpets (too much energy would be needed for removing the highly viscous liquor).

After-treatment: This final operation consists in washing and drying the fabric (it is not
necessary when printing with pigments or with other particular techniques such as transfer
printing process).

Techniques of printing
 A number of techniques or means for printing pastes on to design areas of fabrics.
 Include stencil, block (surface), engraved roller, screen, transfer and digital (ink jet) printing
techniques.

Stencil printing
 Pastes are forced out through cutting out shapes from plastic papers or cards on to fabrics
underneath.
 Commercial stencil sets for lettering are made of waxed card or metal, and incorporate ties to
hold solid areas together and to prevent the centres of letters such as O or P from falling out.
 The ties produce unsightly (unpleasant) lines across the stencilled letters.
 Screen printing is an extension of technique of stencilling

Block printing.
st
 Is the 1 textile-printing technique.
 It uses blocks with raised printing surfaces, which are to be inked and then pressed on to a
fabric-just similar to stamps.
 By repetition, the image from a single block builds up into a complete design over the
fabric area.
 Some early blocks were made of clay or carved wood surfaces

Transfer Printing
Design is 1st printed on to a non-textile substrate (special paper) and later transferred by a
separate process to a textile. A number of methods for transfer prints have been described in
literature.

 Sublimation transfer
 Melt transfer
 Film release transfer
 Wet transfer

Screen printing
 Is extension of stencil printing
 Consists of a woven polyester material, or metal mesh tightly stretched onto rectangular
or round frames.
 During printing, screen usually lies across fabric width.
 Mesh only allows printing paste to pass through the mesh in those areas corresponding to
the design being printed.
 A suitable coating blocks the remaining areas.
 There is a screen for printing each color
 It can be manual, semi or fully automatic or flat and circular

Manual screen printing

 Fabric lay on a long table on top of printing blanket which in turn laid on lapping‘.
 Printing paste is poured into screen that sits on fabric surface.
  Flexible rubber blade, squeegee, is drawn across inner surface of screen manually to
spread viscous colored paste and force it through open areas to print fabric beneath.
 Two or more strokes across screen are usual.

Figure. Manual screen printing

Rotary screen printing

 Motion is continuous unlike that of flat one (intermittent) Colored paste is forced through
open areas of a cylindrical printing screen that rotates as fabric moves beneath it. Is fully
continuous with fabric speeds up to 50 m min–1, if adequate drying capacity is available. A
pump delivers paste from a container into a central pipe that runs inside full length of screen.
This pipe also supports the squeegee. The paste runs down onto rotating screen from holes in
the pipe.
 Paste collects under stationary squeegee, which forces it out through holes in rotating screen
Squeegee is a flexible stainless steel blade, since rubber squeegees wear away too quickly.
Direct rotary screen printing does not allow large repeats unlike that of flat screens. Large
repeats can, however, be printed by automated intermittent raising and lowering of rotating
screens. In this way, two or three different rotating screens print the same color to give a
large repeat.
Self-Check.1 Written Test

Directions: Answer all the questions listed below.

Part I. Choose the correct answer from a given alternatives. Answer on the provided space.

1. Which one of the following natural fiber?

A. cotton B. sisal C.woo1 D. polyester E. all except D

2. Which one of the following is not Animal Fiber?

A. flax B. wool C. silk D. cashmere

3. One of the following is different from others

A. polyester B. spandex C. nylon D. jute

4. Which one of the following is fabric making process?

A.weaving B. knitting C. non-woven D. all

5. The process of making fabrics by interloping of yarns is----------

A. weaving B. Non-woven C. knitting D .none

Part II Give short answer for the following questions

1. What are textile fibers?

2. Write the classification of fibers based on their length and sources?

3. Discus on fiber classification based on their sources?

4. Discus on the classification of fabrics?

5. Write and discus on textile wet processing?

6. Write woven fabric structures and discus their properties?

7. Write knitted fabric structures and discus their properties?

 Chapter Two. Describe uses of coloration techniques in
design process
2.1. Describe use of color inform and inspire design
Uses of color
 dyeing fabrics to match others
 over-printing fabrics to create a new print design
 mixing colours to create something different
 removing colour to create print design
 emphasise texture and patterns

Dyeing Fabrics to Match Others

Dyeing – imparting color to the entire textile (whole volume)‐ a method for coloring a textile
material in which a dye is applied to the substrate in a uniform manner to obtain an even shade
with a performance and fastness appropriate to its final use.

Colorants:

1. Dyes

2. Pigments

Dyes
Natural dyes ‐ extracted from plant and animal sources
 only a limited range of dull colors
 poor fastness to washing and sunlight

The four major characteristics of dyes:

1. Intense color
2. Solubility in water at some point during the dyeing cycle

3. Some substantivity for the fiber being dyed

4. Reasonable fastness properties

Factors involved in the selection of dyes:

  types of fibers present
 form of the textile material and the degree of levelness required
 fastness properties required
 dyeing method to be used, the overall cost, and the machinery available
 actual color requested by the customer

Over-printing fabrics to create a new print design

Coloration of textiles = Dyeing + Printing

Printing – the localized application of a dye or pigment in a thickened form to a substrate to
generate a pattern or design…. localized dyeing

Printing Methods
 Block Printing  Transfer Printing
 Roller Printing  Digital Printing
 Screen Printing Methods giving print like effects
 Manual  Batik ‐ Indonesia
 Automatic flat bed  Tie‐dye ‐ India
 Rotary  Spray printing- Japan

Early forms of textile printing

a. Block Printing

Figure 2.1 block printing

b. Mordant Printing
c. Resist Printing (mechanical)

 Batik
 Tie and dye
 Ikat

Figure 2.2. tie dyeing

Figure 2.3. Ikat printing

Industrial Printing Processes

  Flat and rotary screen printing
 Roller printing
 Transfer printing
 Digital printing (newly)

Roller Printing
 Speed = 100 – 150 m/min
 Superior than others – for fine or precise designs
 The color is applied to the cloth from an engraved roller,
 The color being held in grooves below the surface of the roller.
 Engraved rollers are hollow steel cylinders, electroplated with a layer of copper in to which
engraving is etched… 40‐70 Kg
 The roller is plated with a thin layer of chromium (max. 0.04 mm) to prevent damage by
scratching and to prolong its printing life.
 A roller is used for each color… circumference limits design
 Each printing roller is individually driven and can be adjusted vertically and laterally to
ensure correct register.
Etching of the design:
–Manual
–Mechanical
–Chemical

2. Screen Printing
 The method of patterning a fabric by using screen similar to stencilling.
 The pattern surfaces of the printing are permeable for the color paste.

 The paste needs to be pressed by squeezing through the pores of the screen to be applied on
the screen.

It includes:
  Flatbed screen printing (manual and automatic)
 Rotary screen printing

Preparation of Screens (Screen Engraving)

 Formerly screens were made of fine silk…. today screens of synthetic fiber (Nylon and PET)
or metal mesh are used.
 A screen is used for each color (sometimes overlapping)
Rotary screen printing
 For rotary screen printing, the principle is same but coating with lacquer is done by machine
and the ends are covered with metal ring that will fit the machine during printing.
 A combination of roller and screen printing. Dye is transferred through screens that roll over
the fabric.

Figure 2.4. Rotary screen printing

Advantages include:
 Can print large designs
 Accurate and fast
 This method is gaining in popularity

Screen Printing by Hand

 Done on flat screen frames and is similar to stencilling.
 Each color has its own screen.

Advantages include:
 Good for large designs
 Better quality designs than roller printing method

Disadvantages include:
  Slow printing method

Figure. Screen printing

Screen Printing by Machine

Figure 2.5. Machine screen printing

Heat Transfer printing

 The desired dyes and patterns are placed onto paper using a rotary screen printer. The paper
is placed on the fabric and with heat and pressure the colors and patterns are transferred to
the fabric.
 T-shirts are printed using this method.
 Like a ―temporary tattoo‖ for fabric

Digital Printing
 The newest method of fabric printing.
 It is like ink-jet printing with a computer but rolls the fabric through an extra-wide
printer.
 Droplets of color are ―spit‖ onto the fabric.

Advantages include:
Fast
Inexpensive
Environmentally safe
Can print small or large amounts of fabric at the same time

Figure digital printing

Styles of Printing
Printing designs can be obtained by 3 styles:

1. Direct printing
2. Discharge printing

3. Resist printing

1. Direct Printing‐ colorants are printed directly on the desired portions of a white/dyed fabric
to produce a multi‐colored design a multi colored pattern on a white/color background is formed.

2. Discharge Printing – dye + print with discharging agent

Discharging – by oxidation or reduction of dyes

Oxidizing agents – potassium or sodium chlorate

Reducing agents – Sodium sulphoxylate formaldehyde‐

 Discharge printing – for small, light colored or white designs on dark background.
 Discharging agent should be completely removed… otherwise will eventually weaken the
fabric in the areas from which the color has been discharged.

3. Resist Printing
Mechanical resist Vs. chemical resist
Print with chemicals that resist dyes – pass through dye bath – the printed areas will prevent
dye dev‘t
For dyes which are dyed on the fabric by two or more separate chemical processes….
solubilized vat dyes, Azoic dyes…

DTG printing (direct to garment)

In free translation, DTG means ―directly on clothing‖. It is a printing method that involves the
application of patterns and colors directly to the base, which in this case is a finished clothing
product. The sewing of the product takes place before the printing process and the components
are ready for use the moment they are removed from the printer.

DTG is perfect if you want to print on finished products such as:

T-shirts
Polo shirts
Sweatshirts
 Bags

Fig 2.8. T-shirt printing using direct printing method

2.7. Describing Role of coloration tool

The most common organisation of basic colours is shown by what is called a
colour wheel. This particular organisation uses twelve segments which are divided
into three categories, which are primary, secondary and tertiary. The primary hues
of red, yellow and blue form an equilateral triangle are shown within the colour
wheel. The three secondary hues of orange, violet and green are shown in another
triangle. Red orange, orange yellow, green yellow, blue green, violet blue and red violet is shown
in six other tertiary hues.

2.8. Describing Effect of coloration on the design

Fabric printing is an art form and can be done in many different ways. It is essentially a
decorative pattern or design that is applied to constructed fabric.

Printing Techniques
 Roller Printing
 Flat (Silk) Screen Printing
 Rotary Screen Printing
 Block Printing
 Heat Transfer Printing
 Dye Sublimation Printing
 Resist Printing

Color is one of the most significant factors in the appeal & marketability of textile products
manner in which color is added to a textile and the chemical nature of the colorant contribute to
product‘s

 appearance
  performance
 rate of response to fashion change
 quality
 cost

Self-Check-2.1 Written Test

Directions: Answer all the questions listed below.
Part I. Choose the correct answer from a given alternatives. Answer on the provided space.

1. Which one of the following is the most significant factors in the appeal & marketability of
textile products.

A. Thickener B. hydrogen peroxide C. color D. Caustic soda E. all

2. Which one of the following is not Industrial Printing Processes?

A. Block printing B. rotary screen printing C. Roller printing D. Transfer printing

Part II Give short answer for the following questions

1. Write the uses of textile coloration?

2. Write the types and styles of printing?

3. Discus on characteristics and factors of dye selections?

 Chapter Three. Fabrics coloration

3.1 Applying Coloration techniques at variety of fabrics

3.1. Colours mixing

What is Colour?
Colour is the property of an object that results from the reflection, transmission or emission of
light waves which causes a visual perception in the eyes depending upon the specific wavelength
involved. For instance, a blue shirt absorbs all light rays except the blue ones, which are reflected
back to the eyes. Therefore, this shirt appears to be blue. White combines all colours and
therefore a white object reflects all colours. Since black absorbs all colours, no hue is reflected
by the back colour.

Colour Dimensions

 Colour has three different dimensions: hue, value and intensity.

Hue. Colours are called hues. A hue is the name given to specific colours such as red and blue.
The first is hue, which is the name of colours. The primary hues are yellow, red and blue.

Secondary colours are made by mixing two primaries. Intermediate colours are mixtures of a
primary and an adjacent secondary colour. The secondary property of colour is value, which
refers to the lightness or darkness of hue the third property of colour is intensity, which refers to
the brightness or dullness of hue also called Chroma.

Value

Value refers to the use of darks and lights or the variation of light strength in a colour.
The value scale runs from white to black. White is pure light; black is the total absence of light.
Adding white lightens a colour and adding black darkens it. The lighter values are called tints
and the darker ones are called shades.

Intensity

Intensity is also called Chroma, which stands for the relative saturation, brightness (strength) or
paleness (weakness) of a colour. Bright colours are considered to be of high intensity; pale ones
are of low intensity. When some paint is paled by adding water, the intensity of its colour is
lowered. For example, sky blue is of high intensity and soft pastel blue is of low intensity.

Colour Wheel

The most common organisation of basic colours is shown by what is called a colour wheel. This
particular organisation uses twelve segments which are divided into three categories, which are
primary, secondary and tertiary. The primary hues of red, yellow and blue form an equilateral
triangle are shown within the colour wheel. The three secondary hues of orange, violet and green
are shown in another triangle. Red orange, orange yellow, green yellow, blue green, violet blue
and red violets are shown in six other tertiary hues.

Figure. 3.1. Color wheel

Primary Colours

Red, yellow and blue cannot be made by mixing other colours.

Secondary Colours

When you mix two primary colours together, they make a secondary colour. Orange, purple and
green are all secondary colours.

Tint A pure colour mixed with white. For example, red plus white to make pink.

Shade A pure colour mixed with black. For example, red plus black to make burgundy.

Tone A general term to describe a tint or shade.

Complementary Colours (Contrast Colours)

Pairs of colours that appear on opposite sides of the colour wheel. For example, red and green or
violet and yellow

Warm Colours
Red, yellow and orange as warm colours are classified as they are usually associated with fire
and sun. Warm colours are stimulating, aggressive and lively.
Red is associated with matters of the heart - valentine, love and romance; exciting, fiery, and
dangerous. It is a popular colour for women‘s wear and it is one of the colours that are frequently
used for clothing every season. Yellow is bright, sunny, cheerful, friendly and optimistic. Orange
has become popular in the youth market.

Cool Colours

Blue, green and violet remind people of the sky and the sea. Blue is quiet, restful and reserved.
Denim and navy blue have become wardrobe classics. For this reason, most manufacturers
include blue especially in their spring or summer lines. Green is a soothing colour, suggesting
peace and calm. It is used primarily in a dark value in fall sportswear lines. Violet, historically
associated with royalty, has come to represent wealth, dignity and drama.

Colours can create the illusionary effect of narrowness or fullness in the wearer. Colours can also
be used to accent or play down certain areas of the body and create illusions in one‘s height and
size. Colours are perceived differently when they are placed next to each other. Generally,
brighter colours seem larger than darker ones.

Colours can be considered to have the strongest visual impact among other design related
elements on an object. For example, warm colours and pure colours appear nearer to the viewer
whereas cool colours appear to recede. Light colours expand; dark colours contract. Yellow is
perceived as the largest colour and black the smallest.

In addition, colours can be used to emphasise a special feature such as the colour of your eyes.
Some people with blue-gray eyes appear to have very blue eyes when they wear a blue shirt.

Additive and Subtractive Colour Mixing

It is useful at this stage to consider colour perception in terms of what is seen when colours are
mixed. The visual effects produced are different, depending on whether coloured lights or
dyes/paints/pigments are being mixed.

Additive Colour Mixing

Additive colour mixing refers to the visual effects produced when coloured lights are mixed.
There are three primary coloured lights: red, green and blue. Mixing any two primary coloured
lights in equal proportions gives a secondary colour.
Red + blue= magenta

Green +blue = cyan

Red + green =yellow

In this system the magenta, cyan and yellow are secondary colours. Mixing all three primary
colours (in equal proportions) produces a visually acceptable white, that is,

Red +Green +Blue = White

Additive colour mixing , mixing red, green and blue lights.

Using these simple relationships, it can be deduced that white can also be produced by mixing a
primary colour with an appropriate secondary colour (any two colours that form white in an
additive mix are called complementary colours):

Red +Cyan =White

Green +Magenta = White

Blue +Yellow = White

Subtractive Colour Mixing

This form of colour mixing refers to the mixing of dyes and pigments. When white light is
incident on a dye or pigment, the wavelengths are absorbed to different extents, some more than
others. The colour of the dye or pigment is due to the wavelengths not absorbed, that is, those
that are reflected to the eye.

The subtractive primary colours are magenta, cyan and yellow. A yellow dye absorbs the short
wavelength blue part of the spectrum, a magenta dye absorbs the middle green part and a cyan
dye absorbs the long wavelength red part. If all three are mixed, then (in principle) all
wavelengths are absorbed and the mixture is black.
A yellow dye transmits green and red light, whilst a cyan dye transmits green and blue light. The
colour that both these dyes transmit is green, which is why green is seen where the two filters
overlap. A magenta dye transmits blue and red light, so where the magenta‐coloured filter
overlaps with the yellow‐coloured filter, red is transmitted, red being the colour they both
transmit.

Subtractive colour mixing.

3.2. Dyeing fabrics

The Selection of Dyes

There are various choices available to dye given fabric. The main criteria for selection of dyes
depend upon the following factor.

 End uses of fabric.

 Fiber content.
 Fabric structure.
 Requirement of color fastness.
 Penetration and absorption of dyes.
 Cost of dye stuff.
 Methods of application etc.

Dyeing Objectives

The main objectives of dyeing are.

 To impart color to the Textile substrates [fibers, yarns, fabrics & garments] uniformly and
producing uniform levelling.
 To achieve acceptable durability of color to further treatments in production and normal end
use.
 To reproduce the required shade from batch to batch.
 To use reasonably priced dyes and dyeing procedure.
 To provide and use eco-friendly process.
 Fixing the color in the shortest possible time

Dyeing Methods
Textile materials can be dyed using following methods –

1. Batch Dyeing.

2. Continuous Dyeing.

3. Semi-continuous Dyeing Processes

Various type of dyeing methods are used in the industry to dye the textile materials such as fibre
dyeing, yarn dyeing, fabric dyeing, and garment dyeing. Apart from these some of the fibre,
which are difficult to dye in a conventional dyeing process can be dyed as Dope Dyeing
Process. The type of dying process used depends on several things including type of material
(fiber, yarn, fabric, fabric construction and garment), type of fiber, size of fabric lots and quality
requirements in the dyed fabric. Machinery used for dyeing must be resistant to attack by acids,
bases, and other auxiliary chemicals and dyes. Stainless steel is normally used as the construction
material for all parts of dyeing machines that will come in contact with dye formulations.

Types of Textile Dyeing Machines

Most of the Textile Dyeing Machines utilize latest advancement in the dyeing technology to give
high capacity dyeing along with uniformity and smooth finishes.

1. Beam Dyeing Machine

2. Hank Dyeing Machine

3. Jet Dyeing Machine

4. Jig Dyeing Machine

5. Paddle Dyeing Machine

6. Package Dyeing Machine

7. Winch Dyeing Machine

8. Sample Dyeing Machine

3.3. Apply printing on fabrics

Print Paste Formulation

The print paste is the medium by which the colorant (dye or pigment) is applied to the textile
substrate.

In general, the formulation depends upon a number of factors, including the dye or pigments
being printed, the substrate and the fastness requirements of the print.

The print paste must exhibit specific properties in order to achieve a successful print; the
ingredients of the print paste and their functions are listed as follows:

 Dye or pigment (provides colour)

 Solvent (always water with textiles, the medium in which the other ingredients are
dissolved/dispersed)
 Thickening agent (to increase the viscosity of the paste)
 Solution assistants (to assist the dissolving of the ingredients)
 Chemicals required to aid fixation of dyes (e.g. acids or alkalis)
 Reducing or oxidising agents (required by specific dyes for water solubilisation, also to
prevent the reduction of dyes during steaming)
 Humectants (assist in swelling the textile fibre during steaming)

The above list comprises the general ingredients of a generic print paste.

There are two printing based ingredients dye‐based printing pastes will facilitate the localised
diffusion of the dye into the textile substrate, the pigment printing paste will focus upon the
adhesion of the pigment to the substrate surface and the film forming over the pigment to assist
in improved fastness properties of the print.

A dye‐based print paste has the following ingredients:

 Colorant – Dye.
 Thickener – To provide print paste viscosity.
 Humectant – To maintain moisture content during printing and fixation (steaming). E.g. urea
 Acid/Alkali – Depends upon dye class being used. Alkali used for reactive dyes to facilitate
covalent fixation to the substrate.
 Oxidising agent – Prevents ‗frosting‘ of prints or reduction of dye during steaming.
 Water – Solvent for the ingredients
A pigment‐based print paste has the following ingredients:

 Suitable pigment dispersion

 Bonding and cross‐linking agent (the binder) – To adhere the pigment to the surface of
the substrate and form a transparent film over the pigment.
 Thickener system – To provide print paste viscosity
 Softening agents – To modify the handle of the print
 Evaporation inhibiters – To prevent screen clogging
 Foam suppressers – To minimise foam build‐up during printing
 Wash‐off assistants – To prevent the paste drying out on the screen and to ease screen
washing after printing

Constituents of pigment printing paste:

 Pigment
 Thickener (emulsion/synthetic)
 Binder
 Cross‐linking agent
 Catalyst
 Hand modifier
 Hygroscopic agent, etc.

Procedure of pigment printing

Printing drying fixation (curing or steaming)

3.4. Emphasise texture and patterns

Texture is the surface quality of an object. In fashion design, the texture is the surface interest of
a fabric, created by the weave and by light reflection. Our eyes can appreciate the play of light on
smooth or rough surfaces and the hands to feel the surface.

Texture influences the drape of a garment. Chiffon clings and flows, making it a good choice for
soft, feminine styles while canvas has the firmness and bulk suitable for more casual garments.

Texture affects the colour of a fabric by causing the surface to either reflect or absorb light.
Rough textures absorb light, causing the colours to appear flat. Smooth textures reflect light,
causing colours to appear brighter.
Texture is introduced to a garment of a single colour. This can be implemented by decoration,
pin-tucking, smocking, gathering and embroidery – anything that disturbs the surface.

Effect of texture on colour

Colours generally seem lighter on a shiny surface than a dull one. Colours from ―textured‖ and
wrinkled fabrics seem darker because of more shadows and colours on fuzzy surfaces mix with
fiber highlights and shadows, makes them dull slightly. Colours on firm, smooth surfaces seem
flat.

Fabric Patterns

Fabric patterns are coordinated by lines, dots, shapes, spaces and colours. They are created in
endless varieties - geometric, floral, stripes, checkers, dots, abstract motifs and many others.
Consequently, patterns always provide interest and visual impact. Printed and dyed fabrics
convey new fashion trends easily and comparatively quickly. They help balance collections or
ranges and add variety.

 fabric patterns are divided into four categories and are listed as follows:-

(A) Geometric Patterns

Geometric patterns refer to textural patterns, stripes, checks and plaids that are woven, printed or
knitted such as Gingham, left-hand twill, striped chambray, window pane linen or pin stripe.
(B) Conventional Patterns

Conventional patterns refer to naturalistic motifs that are stylized. Conventional patterns
combine the rhythm of stripes with the soft natural charm of floral in pattern. For example, fancy
woven stripe on dimity, woven silk brocade or block print on linen.

(C) Naturalistic Patterns

Principally floral, although other motifs may be used, ranging from leopard spots to candy canes
such as paisley on acetate jersey, naturalistic floral on cotton and stylised floral on silk crepe.
(D) Dots and spots

For example, novelty dots on cotton, coin dots on flat crepe, and geometric motifs on jersey.

(E) Printing Techniques

Printing and dyeing techniques are the most significant influence of the whole pattern effect and
garment‘s appearance. It plays an important role in today‘s fashion design industry. Some of the
most common printing and dyeing techniques.

(i) Block Printing

Block printing is one of the earliest forms of printing. It uses wooden blocks that are engraved
with the design or, alternatively, the design is hammered into metal strips.

(ii) Screen Printing

Screen printing is based on the stencilling process. A fine mesh screen is created and the areas
not to be printed are chemically blocked out. A different screen is needed for each colour
required. A squeegee is used to push the printing ink through onto the cloth. This may be done
by hand or by a machine, depending on whether the fabric is a sample, a ―one-off‖ or one for
mass production.

(iii) Burn-out Printing

Burn-out printing is a technique whereby a chemical is printed onto a fabric constructed from
two fibers. The chemical destroys one fiber and creates sheer areas.
(iv) Discharge Printing

Discharge printing is a light pattern on a dark background created by printing a paste onto the
fabric. The paste removes the background colour.

(v) Engraved Roller Printing

Engraved roller printing produces a continuous design on a fabric and has images engraved onto
a metal roller. The roller is inked and is transferred to the cloth under pressure. It is useful for
designs with a repeating image over a large printed area as this method enables seamless printing
so that the joins in the design are invisible.

(vi) Heat Transfer Printing

Heat transfer printing works by passing a paper with the printed design through heated rollers
with a cloth that consequently transfers the print. Dye transfer from the paper to the cloth by
hand using a piece of coloured paper and a small heat press.

(vii) Digital Printing

Digital printing can be applied directly to fabrics from the computer via an inkjet printer. Very
high-definition imaging can be achieved and many colours can be printed without the need of
using numerous screens. Laser printers are also used but it is still a relatively expensive process.

(viii) Printing Inks

Printing inks may be added to flat colour or hand-rendered paint effects. Flocking provides a
velvety texture which depends upon the fiber that is used to flock. Expanding inks also provide
flocking texture and begin to expand after being applied to the cloth.

Fabric patterns, just like fabric texture, can create illusions in design. For instance, small prints in
subdued colours usually reduce the apparent size. In contrast, large designs expand the apparent
size and largely-spaced motifs will also make the wearer look wider in body size. Prints with
wide curves give a feeling of added roundness and size.

Prints, stripes and plaids that are in scale or in proportional size should be selected with reference
to body size. Small designs look best on small-to-average individuals but they look out of place
and lost on a large figure. On the contrary, large designs are best worn by the average-to-tall
individuals as these designs can overwhelm a small figure

3.5. Analysing Process to asses outcome

3.6 Modifying Colorization

Self-check 3.1 Written test

Directions: Answer all the questions listed below.

Part I. Choose the correct answer from a given alternatives. Answer on the provided
space.

1. Which one of the following is a dye‐based print paste ingredients

A. Thickener
B. Binder
C. Pigment
D. all

2. Which one of the following are the main criteria for selection of dyes in textile products.

A. End uses of fabric.

B. Fiber content.
C. Fabric structure
D. All of the above.

3. Which of the following is true about procedure of pigment printing?

A. Printing drying fixation (curing or steaming)

B. Printing fixation drying
C. drying printing fixation (curing or steaming)
D. Printing dyeing fixation (curing or steaming)

Part II Give short answer for the following questions

1. What are printing past ingredients?

2. What is the function of binder in the printing paste?

3. Discus on emphasise texture and patterns?

4. What is color? And write the dimensions of color?

5. What are the main objectives of dyeing in textile coloration?

Operation Sheet 3.1
Operation Title Checking and loading printing paste and screen

Purpose
To demonstrate loading printing paste and screen to meet production requirement.

Equipment tools and materials

Scissors, load shifting device, PPE, trial fabric, readymade screen and prepared paste.

Conditions or situations for the operation

The operation process can be performed by following the procedure and steps illustrated on the
information sheet.

Procedures
 Prepare the printing paste
 Receive prepared screen
 Load prepared screen on the printing machine
 Adjust the trial fabric
 Receive prepared paste and check
 Load/connect the past tank with printing machine
 Check loaded paste and screen
 Ready for perform printing operation

Precautions, Follow the correct procedure/steps in listed above. Perform the given operation
based on the operational requirement

Quality criteria the operation can be performed by following occupational health and
safety rule. Use of proper OHS materials

 Safe operation of machines and correcting operational faults

 Use of technical specifications manuals
 Performing quality standards and practices
 Applying OHS practices, including hazard control measures
 Recording and reporting production data
LAP test 3.1 Practical Demonstration

Name_______________________________ Date: ____________________

Time started: _______________________Time finished: ________________

Instructions: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required
to perform the following tasks within 3 hours.

Task 1. Checking prepared printing paste

Task 2. Checking prepared printing screen

Task 3. Loading the printing paste in the screen

Task 4. Perform reactive dyeing on cotton fabrics

LO4. Ensure workplace standards are met
4.1. Implementing OHS practices
Work health and safety
Work health and safety (WHS): Sometimes called occupational health and safety (OH&S)
involves the management of risks to the health and safety of everyone in workplace. This
includes the health and safety of anyone who does work for workers as well as customers,
visitors and suppliers.

Workplace safety is an important part of any job and requires that everyone in the company
adhere to the safety guidelines and policies in place. Carefully following appropriate safety
guidelines can go a long way toward preventing workplace injuries. Here are some ways you can
work to stay safe on the job.

 Be Aware
 Use Equipment Properly
 Take Breaks regularly
 Locate Emergency Exits
 Report Safety Concern
 Practice Effective Housekeeping
 Make use of mechanical Aids
 Reduce Work place stress
 Use Appropriate safety Equipment

Benefits of Work health and safety

Creating a safe work environment is a legal requirement. It‘s also critical to the long term
success of task/work:

 Help you keep your staff

 Improve staff productivity
 Reduce injury and illness in the workplace
 Reduce the costs of injury and workers' compensation
OHS practices
manual handling techniques
standard operating procedures
personal protective equipment
safe materials handling
taking of rest breaks
ergonomic arrangement of workplaces
following marked walkways
safe storage of equipment
housekeeping
reporting accidents and incidents
other OHS practices relevant to the job and enterprise

Personal protective equipment (PPE)

A Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is clothing or equipment designed to reduce employee
exposure to chemical, biological, and physical hazards when on a worksite. It is used to protect
employee‘s hazard and illness/injuries and to reduce the risks to acceptable levels.

No Materials Description
1 Body safety cloth (Tuta): - This cloth is a type of cloth which covers all
the body part except the head and the fingers. It is used to protect the
body from dirty.

2 Eye protecting device: - It is used to protect the eye from different

damages.

3 Safety shoe: - it is used to protect foots from hazard chemicals damaging.

4 Hand glove: Which is made of leather or strong flexible plastic rubber, it

used to cover fingers to protect from sharpen materials, greases, and oils.
Mouse cape:- it is used to protect mouth from any dirty
4.2 Checking effects of Coloration to meet garment quality standard

LO5. Document process

5.1 documenting coloration process
5.2 filed and stored document