2009 Family & Consumer Sciences Summer Conference: Sauces
2009 Family & Consumer Sciences Summer Conference: Sauces
Sauces
Presented by:
Sauces
Objectives: By the end of this class, students will be able to:
Class Sequence:
Class discussion on sauce qualities and categories
Chef demonstration on clarifying butter and hollandaise sauce
Review recipes and production
Prepare and evaluate sauces
Lunch
Sanitation and class review
ESPAGNOLE SAUCE
Amount Ingredient
1/2 gal. beef stock/broth
2 oz. brown roux
Bouquet garni:
2 tsp. black peppercorns
1 each bay leaf
1/2 tsp. dried thyme leaves
1/2 handful parsley stems
METHOD OF PRODUCTION
1. In a sauce pan, bring beef stock to a boil. Lower heat and add roux and whisk
vigorously to dissolve all of the roux. Bring mixture back to a simmer.
2. In a small stock pot, render the bacon until the bacon is golden brown. Remove
bacon and set aside.
3. Add the onions, carrots, and celery; saute until browned. Add the tomato puree
and cook for 5 minutes to remove the acidity.
4. Add the thickened stock to the vegetable mixture and stir well.
5. Add the bouquet garni to the sauce. Simmer for 1 hour. Skim as needed.
Amount Ingredient
1 qt. milk
1/2 each onion, piquet
2 oz. white roux
to taste salt
to taste white pepper
to taste nutmeg
METHOD OF PRODUCTION
1. In a sauce pan, heat the milk and onion piquet; simmer for 10 minutes.
3. Add the roux to the milk and whisk vigorously dissolving all the roux.
Amount Ingredient
1 qt. béchamel, thin consistency
10 oz. cheddar cheese, grated
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese
2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. Tabasco sauce
1.5 tsp. dry mustard
METHOD OF PRODUCTION
Amount Ingredient
1 qt. chicken stock
2 oz. blond roux
to taste salt
to taste white pepper
METHOD OF PRODUCTION
2. Lower heat and add roux; stir vigorously until all roux is dissolved.
4. Season with salt and white pepper. Strain sauce through a fine chinois.
VELOUTE CHARTRUESE
Amount Ingredient
1 Tbsp. butter
2 oz. mushrooms, sliced
1 each tomato, small dice
½ oz. baby spinach, chiffonade
to taste salt
to taste black pepper
1 pt. chicken veloute, hot, thin consistency
2 oz. heavy cream
METHOD OF PRODUCTION
1. Melt butter in a medium saute pan. Add mushrooms and cook until tender.
2. Add tomatoes and cook for 1 minute. Add spinach and cook until spinach is
wilted.
3. Season with salt and black pepper. Mix well and add mixture to hot veloute sauce.
Amount Ingredient
as needed olive oil
8 oz. onions, small dice
4 cloves garlic, minced
3 lbs. tomatoes in juice
1 ½ pts. vegetable stock/broth
2 oz. tomato paste
1 each bay leaf
1/4 tsp. red pepper flakes
to taste salt
to taste black pepper, basil, oregano, thyme
METHOD OF PRODUCTION
1. Heat a thin layer of olive oil in a heavy sauce pan. Add the onions and garlic and
cook until onions are translucent.
2. Add the tomatoes, vegetable stock, tomato paste, bay leaf and red pepper flakes.
Bring sauce to a boil; lower heat and simmer for 15 minutes.
Amount Ingredient
1 Tbsp. olive oil
5 oz. onion, brunoise
3 oz. carrot, grated
1 tsp. garlic, minced
½ lb. ground beef
½ cup red wine
24 fl. oz. tomato sauce
1 each bay leaf
to taste salt, black pepper
to taste basil, oregano
METHOD OF PRODUCTION
1. Heat oil in medium saucepan. Add onions, carrot, and garlic: sauté until onions
are tender.
2. Add ground beef. Season mixture with salt and black pepper. Cook until beef is
done and drain grease through a strainer.
3. Place meat mixture back into the saucepan. Add red wine and tomato sauce and
mix well. Bring sauce to a boil and lower to a simmer. Simmer for 15 minutes.
Amount Ingredient
3 each egg yolks
2 Tbsp. water
8 oz. clarified butter
to taste lemon juice
to taste salt
to taste cayenne pepper
METHOD OF PRODUCTION
2. Place egg mixture over a double boiler and using a piano whip, whisk constantly
until the eggs leave a trail through the whip.
Compound Sauce:
Add Dijon mustard and tarragon to finished hollandaise – serve with grilled
salmon or chicken
Replace the lemon juice with orange juice – add minced orange zest to finished
hollandaise – serve with steamed asparagus
THE MOTHER SAUCES
Mixture of finely
diced onions, celery
and carrots,
sautéed in butter.
Added to sauces and
various other dishes to give
flavor.
How to Make Great Sauces
A Guide to Mother Sauces and Beyond
It's no secret that a good sauce can elevate a routine dish to restaurant-level cuisine. In fact, the
sauté chef (or saucier), who is responsible for all sautéed items and their sauces, is often
considered the most demanding, responsible, and glamorous position in the restaurant
kitchen. While we may not all aspire to work in a kitchen brigade, learning how to make great
sauces is something every home cook can benefit from. Sauces can seem intimidating or fancy,
but with our chefs' tips, videos and recipes, you'll be able to polish your cooking with the
addition of some basic sauce knowledge. Whether you want to learn how to make a quick pan
sauce to drizzle over steak, a simple tomato sauce for pasta or an easier-than-ever Hollandaise
sauce, you'll master them all with the help of this guide.
1: Introduction to Sauces
4: Modern Sauces
7. More Resources
1: Introduction to Sauces
How a Sauce can Transform a Dish
A sauce is always a compliment to a dish, never the main component. Some sauces can take a
long time to develop flavor through reduction and straining, while others can be as simple as
adding spices to yogurt and drizzling over lamb. Beyond flavor, the most important element of
any sauce is its ability to cling to whatever food it is highlighting whether it is drizzled, dolloped
or poured on.
Sauces are also not typically tied to one particular dish, but can used in a variety of ways.
Macaroni and cheese starts with a bechamel that is also essential to the Greek classic
Moussaka. Pesto is great on pasta, pizza and even spread on sandwiches. You can't have Eggs
Benedict without Hollandaise, but it's also the perfect choice to go with steamed asparagus. We
won't even try to list all of the ways you can use a tomato sauce. Once you have a base
knowledge of sauces and how they are made, you'll be free to experiment with different flavor
combinations to improvise and get creative in your own kitchen!
2: Meet Chef Sam Goldbroch
Our Resident Sauce Expert
Chef Sam Goldbroch's mother was a prolific French cook so he started learning about sauces at
a young age. However, he was a really picky eater, so it wasn't until he attended culinary school
at Kendall College that he developed his true love of sauces during what would become his
favorite class. At his first restaurant job after graduation, he was in charge of making stocks at
North Pond. It's a typical job for a kitchen newbie, but Sam really enjoyed it because his stocks
were the basis for most of the sauces served in the popular restaurant. He loved being able to
fiddle around with ingredients to develop different flavors in sauces and learning that for some
sauces, that can take five minutes while for others, it can take five days. Sam calls his time at
North Pond his "master's degree in French food" and set him up for success at other local fine
restaurants such as Blackbird, Elizabeth and The Radler before coming to The Chopping Block
as a chef instructor. He loves to teach his students that they have a culinary arsenal of
ingredients at their disposal for flavoring sauces and helped developed our intensive new Sauce
Boot Camp class. Sam still has his mom's annotated classic French cookbooks, including Julia
Child's, that he uses to reference today.
3: The Mother Sauces
Escoffier's Legacy
You may have heard the term "mother sauce" come up on an episode of Iron Chef or in an
interview with a famous chef. This term refers to one of the five classic French sauces, the
building blocks for many other dishes, named by French Chef Auguste Escoffier in the early
twentieth century. They include Béchamel, Espagnole, Velouté, Tomato and Hollandaise.
The first three are all sauces made with a roux, which is a cooked paste of equal parts starch
and fat. Typically in sauce making, we use flour and butter. To make a roux, whisk together
equal parts of butter and flour in a saucepan over medium heat for about 2 minutes, until the
flour no longer smells raw, and then carefully add the liquid, whisking steadily to eliminate
lumps. Return the sauce to a simmer and proceed as the recipe says. Roux-thickened sauces
are very stable, and can be reduced to thicken even further.
Some schools of culinary thought argue that mayonnaise is also a mother sauce, so we'll
consider it one for the purpose of this guide. The following chart is a comparative listing of the
mother sauces, complete with their uses and variations. Note that carrots, celery, and onions
are considered aromatic vegetables, otherwise known as mirepoix.
Sauce Thickener Ingredients Uses Variations
Cheese Sauce (e.g.
Béchamel Casseroles,
Roux Milk Mornay or Alfredo);
(White Sauce) gratins, pastas
Cream Sauce
Brown Stock
Mushroom sauce;
Aromatic vegetables Roasted, grilled or
Espagnole Roux + Bordelaise sauce;
Wine sautéed meats &
(Brown Sauce) Reduction Madeira sauce;
Herbs poultry
Port sauce
Tomatoes
Gravies, pot pies, Herb sauce;
Velouté Roux Chicken or fish stock chicken, eggs, Mushroom sauce;
fish, shellfish Tomato cream
Tomatoes
Pastas, stews, Rose sauce;
Aromatic vegetables
Tomato Reduction meat, poultry, Tomato coulis;
Wine
vegetables, eggs Tomato concasse
Herbs
Egg yolk Aioli;
Salads, spreads,
Mustard Tartar sauce;
Mayonnaise Emulsion (cold) dips, dressings,
Lemon juice Remoulade;
fish, eggs, poultry
Oil Rouille
Butter
Fish, poultry, Béarnaise (tarragon);
Hollandaise Emulsion (hot) Lemon juice
eggs, vegetables Maltaise (orange)
Egg yolk
How to Make a Pan Sauce
Before we delve into each of the Mother Sauces, there's a technique all home cooks should
know that will help in your creation of sauces: how to make a pan sauce. Pan sauces are
convenient because they are prepared in the pan which was used to sauté the main course. It is
simple to create a sauce that is quick, flavorful and very impressive. Examples of dishes that
involve pan sauces (often referred to as reduction sauces) include veal or chicken piccata,
marsala, or saltimbocca, steak au poivre, and fish with an herb cream sauce. Because the sauce
is made in a wide sauté pan with a large surface area, it will reduce and thicken quickly as the
water evaporates.
Pan sauces are most often served over sautéed dishes to take advantage of the flavorful fond
left in the pan when meat or fish is cooked. Fond is the French word for the brown bits and
drippings that cling to the bottom of the pan, which are full of rich taste that should not be sent
to the sink! Gravies made from roasting pan juices are in the same family of sauces.
The first step in creating the sauce is to deglaze the pan, in order to scrape up those flavorful
brown bits. The most effective method of deglazing is to add an acidic ingredient like wine or
vinegar to the pan while it is still warm, then gently scrape the bottom of the pan with a flat-
edged tool to release the fond. Then allow the liquid to reduce to a syrupy consistency. Next,
add liquid (stock, broth or heavy cream) and seasonings and simmer gently until the desired
consistency has been reached.
Tip: The French word for the consistency of a perfect sauce is “nappé,” which means “coated.” A
sauce should be thin enough that it doesn’t sit on top of the food, but thick enough that it
doesn’t run all over the plate. To check your sauce, dip a spoon in it and see that the spoon is
coated. If it’s too thin, you can reduce it by boiling to evaporate water; if too thick, add a little
water, cream or stock to thin it.
There are many flavorful ingredients you can add to a pan sauce to add interest, color, and
variety to your dish. Choose additions that don’t need a long cooking time to release their
flavor. Examples include capers, fresh herbs, citrus zest, roasted peppers, anchovies and
tomatoes. Aromatics, such as minced shallots or garlic, should be sautéed in the hot pan after
the meat is removed, before deglazing.
Tip: For added richness and body, swirl in a tablespoon or two of butter when the sauce is
complete. Use the heat of the pan to gently melt the butter. Don’t let it boil after this point, or
the sauce will separate.
Our Owner/Chef Shelley Young demonstrates how to make two different types of pan sauces in
this video.
Now that you know how to make a pan sauce, let's dive into those Mother Sauces!
Béchamel
Béchamel is a very traditional sauce that has been around since at least the 1600s, possibly
earlier than that, that is basically milk thickened with roux. Chef Sam Goldbroch provides an
easy ratio to keep in mind when making this sauce: "a pound thickens a gallon". That means 1
pound of roux made from 8 ounces of flour and 8 ounces of butter will thicken a gallon of milk.
Use this ratio and pair it down to whatever quantity you need.
To make this sauce, Sam starts with a blonde roux, which is flour and butter toasted for just a
minute or so. He whisks in cold milk until the sauce is smooth and reduces until the desired
thickness. All this sauce needs in its purest form is a little seasoning of salt, bay leaves and
nutmeg. The most familiar example of a dish made with Béchamel that everyone will be
familiar with is Macaroni and Cheese. It's also used in Lasagna, and makes a base for a nice
cheese sauce for broccoli.
Yield: 4 servings
2 tablespoons butter
Espagnole
An Espagnole is a brown stock (usually beef or veal stock) that is thickened with a roux and
flavored with other elements such as red wine and tomato paste. You can use it as a base for a
soup or stew but in Sam's opinion, this sauce is a little outdated. He says you won't find it being
made in many restaurants anymore. "Most people now use a reduction such as a demi-glace.
The reason for that is that it produces a much clearer flavor. If you make a veal reduction, you
get a focused veal flavor, whereas if you make an Espagnole, you get some competing flavors.
Reductions also look much better on a plate. That's why most chefs no longer use the
traditional Espagnole," says Sam. He also adds that the gluten-free movement also plays a part
in how sauces are made. So, if you don't need to add flour which contains gluten to a sauce,
you don't have to worry about adjusting the dish for people who are gluten-free.
If you aren't familiar with the term "demi-glace", Sam defines it as a sauce that has multiple
steps. First, you make a veal stock from bones which can be a 6 to 8 hour process to produce
an intense amount of flavor. Then you strain the bones out of it and make a second stock with
those bones. That second stock won't have a whole lot of flavor, but it will be very gelatinous.
Then you mix the first stock with the second stock and reduce it for many hours up to days to
get a concentrated demi-glace which you can make sauces from.
Shelley demonstrates a variety of an Espagnole, also known as brown sauce, in this video.
Sauce Espagnole
Yield: 3 cups
2 tablespoons butter
1 bay leaf
Now that you have an Espagnole, you can use it to make Bordelaise, which is a derivative of the
Mother Sauce and one of Sam's all-time favorite sauces. You can also just start with a high
quality beef stock or veal demi-glace, as we mentioned.
One of the most important things to remember when cooking with wine at any time is the rule,
"If you won't drink it, don't cook with it." Sam says that's especially true in sauce-making
because as you reduce the wine, you aren't just concentrating the good flavors, you are
concentrating the sugars and tannins as well, so you need to make sure it's a good quality to
start out with. Bordelaise results in a delicious, savory sauce that works well with all types of
meat.
Sauce Bordelaise
Yield: 1 cup
2 shallots, minced
Chicken Chasseur
Another derivative of Espagnole is Chasseur, which means "hunter". It's traditionally made with
rabbit or chicken.
Yield: 4 servings
1 tablespoon butter
2 roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut into small dice (see note, below)
Note:
To remove the skin from a tomato, bring a pot of water to a boil. Cut a shallow x on the bottom
of the tomato and blanch it for 1 minute and then shock in a bowl of ice water. Peel the skin off
where x marks the spot.
Velouté
Velouté is a sauce that traditionally uses either chicken or fish stock and is thickened with a
roux. It's a simple sauce, but isn't used a whole lot today. The most common dish you'll find it in
is Chicken Pot Pie and because this dish is so beloved, Sam says it's a sauce that is worth
learning how to make. You can use the same ratio that we used for Béchamel: a pound thickens
a gallon, only use stock instead of milk.
Watch Shelley demonstrate how to make Velouté that has been slightly embellished in this
video. As she points out, using cold stock will help to reduce lumps in your sauce.
4 tablespoons butter
1. Place the chicken quarters in a heavy shallow pan and cover with water. Bring to a boil,
reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, covered, until the meat is tender and falling off
the bone.
2. Remove the chicken from the water and allow to cool. Once cool to the touch, shred the
meat, discarding the skin and bones, and set aside.
3. To prepare the velouté, heat a deep, heavy pot over medium heat and add the butter.
Gently sauté the mire poix, stirring occasionally, until tender, 5 to 6 minutes.
4. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and cook for 1 or 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
Add the stock, whisking to incorporate.
5. Bring the sauce to a boil, and then reduce to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, for about 15 to
20 minutes to thicken the sauce and blend the flavors.
6. Fold in the shredded chicken, peas and thyme. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
7. Preheat the oven to 375°.
8. Spoon the filling into four to six individual heat-proof bowls (depending on the size) or
one large baking dish.
9. Cut the puff pastry 1/2-inch larger than the baking dish(es), and cut three small slits in
the dough as vents. Brush the rims of the bowls or baking dish with the egg wash, place
the dough on top the filling, and press to adhere the dough to the edge. Brush the top
of the pastry with egg wash.
10. Bake on a parchment-lined sheet tray until browned and bubbly, about 30 minutes.
11. Allow the pot pie(s) to cool for about 5 minutes before serving.
Tomato Sauce
In our opinion, tomato sauce should always be simple. "You get out what you put in," says Sam.
"I always tell my students to get the best possible quality tomatoes that you possibly can, and
getting canned tomatoes is not cheating. It's just a different product."
To make a basic tomato sauce, heat extra virgin olive oil in a pan and sweat some chopped
onions with a pinch of salt until they are very soft. Add minced garlic and cook for about a
minute until you can really smell the garlic. Add the tomatoes, and that's it! Sam doesn't like to
cook his tomato sauce for very long. "The longer you cook it, the more brightness and acidity
you lose from the tomatoes. I'm not one of those people who makes five hour tomato sauce,"
said Sam. "Even an Italian grandmother would make a basic marinara sauce in five minutes.
Now, if she's making a meat sauce or gravy, that could take more like five hours."
Sam's all-time favorite food scene in a movie is the prison tomato sauce scene from Goodfellas.
Check it out.
Watch Shelley demonstrate how to make a basic tomato sauce in this video.
Tomato Sauce
Yield: 3 cups
Active time: 25 minutes
Start to finish: 55 minutes
3 tablespoons butter
1 bay leaf
Serving Suggestions:
Shirred eggs: Pour the tomato sauce into a shallow baking dish and crack 6 eggs into the
sauce. Bake in a 350 oven until the eggs are just set. Serve with warm bread.
Toss with your favorite cooked noodles and vegetables and top with grated cheese.
Use as a sauce to accompany grilled, roasted or sautéed fish or chicken.
Hollandaise
Sam remembers the day he learned how to make Hollandaise in culinary school as the most
dreaded day for the chef instructor because he or she had to taste 20 students' broken sauces.
That's because the traditional way of making Hollandaise is pretty labor intensive: you whisk
egg yolks over a double boiler until they are just steaming, add lemon juice and then add ladles
full of clarified butter while constantly whisking until the sauce thickened.
"I later found out that method was complete nonsense. You don't have to do any of that!" says
Sam. "The way that we do it at The Chopping Block is the most easy, foolproof method for
Hollandaise of all time. You can whip it up in about five minutes." Hollandaise is used for Eggs
Benedict and its derivative, Bearnaise which is flavored with tarragon and vinegar goes
perfectly with a grilled steak, lobster or shrimp. Hollandaise is one of the most versatile Mother
Sauces.
Shelley demonstrates the method for making our Easier-than-Ever Hollandaise sauce in this
video.
Yield: 1 cup
This simple technique is the closest to the classic original found in Escoffier’s renowned cookbook Le
Guide Culinaire. There is no evidence as to how, when or why clarified butter became the “classic”
medium for this sauce. The original version was meant to showcase the unparalleled quality of whole
butter from a specific region.
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons water
1. Place the yolks, water, lemon juice and butter in a slope-sided saucier pan.
2. Place over medium-low heat and whisk until the butter melts. Continue to whisk until
the sauce becomes thick and is steaming, about 5 minutes.
3. Remove the sauce from the heat and whisk in the cayenne pepper, salt and pepper to
taste.
4. Serve warm.
Serving suggestions:
Yield: 1 cup
2 tablespoons water
1. Place the yolks, water, vinegar and butter in a slope-sided saucier pan.
2. Place over medium low heat and whisk until the butter melts. Continue to whisk until
the sauce becomes thick and is steaming, about 5 minutes.
3. Remove the sauce from the heat, fold in the tarragon and season with salt and pepper
to taste.
4. Serve warm with steaks.
Mayonnaise
When Sam was first learning about Mother Sauces, mayonnaise was not included. But he's glad
that it is now considered one because there are literally a million different things you can add
to this sauce to bring something else out of it. "Everyone should learn how to make
mayonnaise," says Sam.
He makes mayonnaise in one of two ways, either by whisking by hand or with an immersion
blender. The way he was taught to test to see if your mayonnaise is thick enough is to hold it
over your head. "If you get no mayonnaise on your head, then it's thick enough." Though Sam
doesn't actually submit his students in class to this test, he does tell them that since he's
learned to make mayonnaise, he's never bought the store-bought version again. He says the
flavors just don't compare and since it's so easy to make, it's not a big deal to whip up a batch
when you need it. A jar of homemade mayonnaise will keep for 2 to 3 days in the fridge as long
as there is acid in it.
You've also probably heard the term "aioli" before which Sam defines very simply as
"mayonnaise with stuff in it." That stuff is usually garlic, but you can also use fresh herbs or
roasted red peppers. Consider it similar to a compound butter which you can flavor any way
you like.
Shelley demonstrates how to make aioli using a food processor in this video.
Aioli, the garlicky cousin of mayonnaise, is a wonderful accompaniment for many things, from
crudité or grilled vegetables, to croquettes, fried or roasted potatoes to meats and fish. Take
your time adding the oil to achieve a nice thick, creamy sauce.
Aioli
Yield: 1 cup
Active time: 5 minutes
Start to finish: 5 minutes
1 egg yolk
Serving Suggestions:
While the influence of the Mother Sauces on today's cuisine cannot be disputed, they are
becoming more and more outdated. One of the reasons is their dependence on roux and as we
mentioned earlier, chefs are moving away from sauces that contain gluten in order to appeal to
a wider variety of diners. While most of the classic sauces are dependent on rich butter, newer
versions rely more on brighter olive oil and vinegars. The newer sauces are also far less labor-
intensive than some of the classic sauces. Some sauces featuring yogurt, peppers and herbs
can be whipped up in just minutes.
Vinaigrette
A pantry stocked with a wide variety of oils and vinegars makes it easy to create an array of
delicious dressings. A basic assortment of vinegars includes red wine, cider, white wine or
champagne, and sherry vinegars. For oils, you should have a fruity extra virgin olive oil as well
as a lighter-flavored oil like a light olive oil, canola oil, or grapeseed oil. Other choices, to further
expand your repertoire, might include fruit vinegars and nut oils. Always purchase good-quality
vinegars and oils and store them in a cool, dark place.
The traditional ratio of oil to vinegar is 3:1. We recommend using this ratio as a rough guideline
when preparing salad dressing, and adjusting it to your taste. Many Americans prefer a
dressing that is slightly more acidic than this ratio.
Tip: Try using lemon juice in place of vinegar in your favorite dressing recipe. Lemon juice has a
bright flavor that really enhances lettuce and other salad vegetables.
We all know that oil and water don’t mix, and the same is true for oil and vinegar. Vinaigrettes
can be “forced” to stay together by emulsifying; or they may be allowed to separate, in which
case they should be whisked before serving. Either way, the vinegar and seasonings can be
combined first, and then the oil should be whisked in slowly.
Tip: Combine the dressing ingredients in a small jar and shake before tossing in salads.
Egg yolks, honey, and mustard are emulsifying agents which help the droplets of oil remain
suspended in emulsified dressings. A good strong Dijon mustard adds wonderful flavor to
many salads as well.
Tip: Once tossed with dressing and served, a perfectly dressed salad leaves no extra dressing in
the salad bowl. The leaves of lettuce should be lightly coated but not soaked in dressing. Add
dressing to a salad a tablespoon or two at a time, to ensure that you don’t drown the lettuce.
Beside mayonnaise, Sam feels the other sauce everyone should know how to make is a
vinaigrette. That's because it's the most versatile of all sauces, and goes way beyond salads.
Vinaigrettes can be used with steak, shellfish, vegetables, grains, even desserts.
What fat and acid you choose is completely up to you. The fat could be olive oil, peanut oil, or
any other type of oil as well as bacon fat, duck fat or butter. Examples of acids for vinaigrettes
would be any type of vinegar or citrus juice, buttermilk or yogurt.
A vinaigrette is one of the most useful foods to learn how to taste. When you are tasting a
vinaigrette, you need to be able to taste when it is imbalanced, but understand that it still needs
to be acidic. "A lot of people will add enough oil so that they don't pucker up anymore, but I
have to remind them that they aren't going to drink the vinaigrette. They are using it to dress
food. It's important that it's interesting to taste because it will make your other food
interesting," said Sam.
Mustard Vinaigrette
1. In a small bowl whisk together the shallot, garlic, vinegar, mustard and sugar.
2. Slowly drizzle in olive oil while whisking to form an emulsion.
3. Stir in the tarragon, and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Beurre Blanc
Sam describes Beurre Blanc as the "nightmare sauce" for both home cooks and chefs alike,
because it is finicky. Beurre Blanc is an emulsified sauce made from a reduction of shallots and
champagne vinegar. Cold cubed butter is added to the vinegar reduction as you constant whisk
it. Since this is really just a butter sauce, the vinegar is needed to cut the fat in the butter. The
tricky part is keeping it at the perfect temperature, so you must constantly monitor the heat by
taking the sauce off and on the stove-top. It can definitely take some practice to get just right.
This sauce also doesn't keep very well so it's best to serve it right away and goes great with fish
or shellfish.
One trick we teach our students is that the addition of some heavy cream, though while not
traditional, can help stabilize the sauce.
Salt to taste
Tabasco sauce
1. Combine shallot, wine and vinegar in a heavy saucepan. Heat over a medium flame and
reduce until all the liquid has evaporated.
2. Add heavy cream, reduce heat to low, and reduce the cream until thickened.
3. Add butter to the sauce base, one piece at a time, whisking constantly over low heat.
Watch consistency: it should remain at a coating sauce consistency. Two thin (or begins
separating)? Remove pan from heat and add butter to cool. Too thick? Slow down the
addition of butter or turn up the heat slightly. Continue in this fashion until all butter
has been incorporated.
4. Add the Tabasco sauce to your liking and season to taste with salt. Keep sauce in a
warm, but not hot, space until needed.
Gastrique
A gastrique is simply a caramel that is deglazed with vinegar. If you've ever heard of the classic
French dish, Duck a l'Orange, Sauce Bigarad is the sauce for that dish. "Most people haven't
heard of a gastrique, but once they learn about it, they are shocked because it is pretty simple
to make, yet sounds so elegant," says Sam.
You simply cook the caramel until golden, deglaze with the acid and then add the stock and
reduce until thick. The combination of the caramel and vinegar provides the perfect balance of
sweet and sour.
Sauce Bigirade
1. In a saucepan bring the sugar and water to a boil. Cook to a light brown caramel.
2. Pull the caramel off the heat, and carefully stir in the orange juice, zest, balsamic
vinegar, and orange liquor.
3. Heat the mixture to dissolve the caramel.
4. Whisk in the stock, thyme, peppercorns and shallots. Bring to a simmer, and reduce
until nappe.
5. Strain through a fine mesh strainer, and serve with duck.
This gastrique goes well with sautéed pork, chicken or even foie gras.
1 shallot, minced
1. Bring the sugar and water to a boil in a heavy saucepan, and cook over medium heat
until the mixture is a golden caramel.
2. Remove from the heat and carefully pour in the vinegar. Add the shallot and ginger, and
swirl the pan over low heat until the caramel is dissolved, about 1 minute.
3. Stir in the apple cider and chicken stock, and boil until reduced to a nappé consistency.
4. Whisk in the diced apples and chives. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.
Romesco
Romesco sauce originated in Spain where it is typically served with fire-roasted onions.
However, it's a great complement to other grilled items like zucchini, chicken and fish. It
couldn't be more simpler to make as you basically take bread, peppers and nuts and combine
them all in the food processor. The bread acts as a thickener for the sauce.
Romesco Sauce
1. Combine all of the sauce ingredients in a blender or food processor and puree until
smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
2. Serve the sauce room temperature.
Notes:
To roast a pepper, place it directly on your gas burner and cook, turning occasionally,
until the skin is completely blackened on all sides. Place the pepper in a bowl, cover with
plastic wrap and allow to steam for about 15 minutes. Remove the skin and seeds from
the pepper, resisting the urge to rinse it, and cut as needed for your recipe.
To remove the skin from a tomato, bring a pot of water to a boil. Cut a shallow x on the
bottom of the tomato, and blanch it for 1 minute and then shock in a bowl of ice water.
Peel the skin off where x marks the spot.
This sauce will keep for several days in the refrigerator.
Pesto
Learning the technique of making pesto is useful because you can literally make it with any
leafy green (think kale, parsley, even carrot tops!). "People with gardens often have an
abundance of herbs that they don't know what to do with, and you can easily turn that bounty
into a delicious pesto," says Sam. Pesto traditionally includes Parmesan cheese, olive oil, lemon
juice, garlic and nuts. As long as you keep the pesto topped with oil, you can keep it for several
weeks in the fridge. It works well to freeze it.
Pesto
2 cloves garlic
1. Turn on a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Drop in garlic cloves through top
opening, and process until finely minced.
2. Turn off the processor, add pine nuts and cheeses and process until finely minced.
3. Add the basil, and while the food processor is running, add the oil in a steady stream
through the feed tube.
4. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
5. Refrigerate until use, up to 4 days, or freeze up to 3 months.
Tzatziki
Tzatziki Sauce
Yield: 2 cups
1 lemon, zested
Note:
To keep the yogurt thick try salting your cucumbers. Place your grated cucumbers in a small
sieve set over a bowl. Sprinkle the cucumbers with salt and mix well. Allow the salt to pull some
of the water from the cucumbers for about 10 minutes. Using your hands, squeeze any excess
water from the cucumbers and mix into the yogurt.
5: General Sauce Tips
More Sauce Know How
While we've covered a lot of specific sauces in the guide thus far, Sam says there some general
rules to be aware of when making sauces.
1. Read through your recipe. Some sauce recipes have a lot of steps and if you start before
you've read through them all, or don't have your mise en place ready to go, you can skip steps
or not have an ingredient ready at the right time.
2. Anytime you are working with a roux-based sauce, don’t walk away from it, otherwise it will
feel abandoned and it will burn. The same rule applies to any sauce with milk or cream in it.
Don't walk away from it, unless you want to be scrubbing the stove-top later.
3. Always take the time to sweat or caramelize the vegetables properly, depending on what the
recipe says. If the recipe includes the words "sweat," "translucent," or "soften," add some salt in
the beginning to draw out the moisture. If the recipe includes the word "caramelize" do not add
salt until the vegetables are already browning.
5. If a recipe calls for a sauce to reduce until "nappe," it is referring to the consistency of the
sauce. It's a French term for when a sauce coats the back of the spoon in a thin layer. This is
what a cook should look for in a good sauce.
6. When butter is added as a finishing touch to sauces, it's called "monte au beurre," or
mounting the sauce with butter. To monte au beurre, add chunks of unsalted cold butter to the
sauce and whisk until the butter melts. This technique provides multiple value to the sauce:
It mellows out the flavors in the sauce. When you are dealing with a sauce with a lot of
assertive flavors (i.e. red wine, bay leaves, rich demi-glace) like a Bordelaise, the butter
rounds everything out. It tames those flavors and melds them together.
It adds body and fat to the sauce which in turn, coats your palate.
It allows the sauce to hold up better on a plate.
It gives shine to the sauce.
6: How to Make Stock
The Basis of a Good Sauce
Stock (or broth) is a fundamental ingredient in many dishes, from sauces, soups and stews, to
risotto. It is an extraction of flavors from bones, vegetables, herbs, and spices that adds flavor,
texture (body), and richness to dishes, without adding fat.
To make stock all you need are bones, aromatic vegetables (onions, carrots, and celery), parsley
(stems are fine), an herb bundle (bay leaf, thyme), a pinch of sea salt, and whole peppercorns.
Tips
Beef or chicken bones may be browned before you make stock for a deeper color and
flavor. Place the bones in a roasting pan and brown in the oven at 450º to 500° for 1/2
hour; add the vegetables and brown 1/2 hour more.
Do not allow the stock to boil. Boiling makes stock cloudy by breaking up the fat and
“scum” (coagulated proteins) and allowing them to combine with the stock. Careful
skimming and a gentle simmer will produce clear stock. Sam describes the perfect
temperature as a "lazy bubble, when a bubble pops to the surface every few seconds."
The fat may be skimmed off the warm stock with a large spoon, or it can be very easily
removed once the stock has chilled in the refrigerator.
Strain twice; first through a colander to remove the large ingredients, then through a
fine strainer lined with dampened cheesecloth to produce a crystal clear result.
To store stock, place it in conveniently sized containers and freeze for up to 6 months.
Stock is very perishable; it only keeps refrigerated for up to 3 days.
One of Sam's biggest pet peeves is when people use garbage in making stock. "You get what
you put into a stock, so if you are using just vegetable scraps, your stock will be weak." Sam
suggests cutting your vegetables into the size that will match how long they will simmer, which
is typically going to be big and chunky if they will be cooking for about four hours. If you cut
them really small, the flavor will be gone by the time the stock is done. However, if you cut
them larger, the flavor of the vegetables will last for the entire cooking process. Taste your
stock as you go to see how the flavor is developing.
It's not necessarily traditional, but Sam's favorite way to make stock is by using a pressure
cooker. "I'm a huge fan of pressure cooked stocks," he says. "The idea of making a stock is to
turn collagen from the bones to gelatin for maximum flavor. You also want to keep the stock as
clear as possible. Pressure cookers boil at 250 degrees so you get gelatin and maximum flavor
extraction immediately. The pressure keeps it from boiling to reduce impurities. And the best
part is they save time; a chicken stock that would typically take four hours to make can be done
in just 30 minutes. The only downside is that they don't come in very large sizes and you can fill
it up quickly. So, I recommend getting the biggest pressure cooker you can possibly afford and
store in your kitchen."
Beef Stock
1 stalk celery
5 whole peppercorns
Chicken Stock
1 chicken carcass
5 whole peppercorns
1. Place all of the ingredients in a stockpot, and add enough cold water to cover by an inch.
Heat until the liquid is just barely bubbling. Keep at a simmer until all the flavors are
extracted, 2 to 4 hours. Skim occasionally with a large spoon to remove the whitish
scum that collects on the surface.
2. Strain through a colander to remove the large ingredients. Then strain a second time
through a fine strainer lined with dampened cheesecloth in order to make the stock
crystal clear.
3. To store stock, cool completely and then pour it into conveniently sized containers and
freeze for up to 6 months. Stock is very perishable; it only keeps refrigerated for up to 3
days.
The beauty of a shellfish stock is that it doesn't take long to make, plus it allows you to extract
every ounce of flavor possible from your seafood shells. You simply sweat some mirepoix
(onions, carrots, celery), add seafood shells and toast, add water and bring to a light simmer. So
how do you know when it's done? Sam's advice: "Once it stops tasting like water, it's done. That
could take as short as 10 minutes with shrimp shells all the way up to an hour with larger
lobsters."
If you are using lobster, you can make the stock right in the same pot you use to boil the
lobsters therefore maintaining all of their juices into the stock.
Lobster Stock
Yield: 2 cups
1 carrot, diced
1 onion, diced
1 tablespoon brandy
1 bay leaf
Cold water
Consommé
You may have seen the term consommé on a fancy French restaurant menu. It's a clear soup
made from richly flavored stock that has been clarified, a process using egg whites, vegetables
and raw meat to remove fat. While the technique isn't done commonly in restaurants today, it's
worth trying at home at least once. As Shelley shows in this video, there are a lot of steps and
time involved, but the result is like nothing you've tasted before.
Chicken Consommé
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs thyme
8 peppercorns
Vegetable Stock
Yield: 8-10 cups stock
12 cups water
10 to 15 black peppercorns
We like roasting the vegetables, because it gives the stock a rich and deeply-developed
flavor. For a lighter, more delicate stock skip the roasting and place all of the vegetables
right into your stock pot. Omit the wine, but add all of the remaining ingredients.
7: More Resources
Practice Your New Skills
If you want to become a sauce nerd like Sam, here are his favorite reading materials
surrounding sauces:
Now that you have a solid foundation in sauce-making, it's time to put your skills to the test. We
recommend making the recipes in the guide, and supplementing with a hands-on cooking class
to fine tune your knowledge. Sam helped developed our new and improved Sauce Boot
Camp to give students a mix of the classical techniques with modern day twists. Sauces are also
a big component of our week-long Culinary Boot Camp program, which mirrors the same
techniques you would learn in professional culinary school. Whatever your sauce goals are, we
are here to help!