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Instruction Manual For

Bolinders 1053 - 1054

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Main Contents
Type and serial numbers…………………………….Page 5
General description of engine…………………………… 6
Instruments and controls…………………………………23
Equipment………………………………………………….26
Installation…………………………………………………33
Directions for use…………………………………………34
Regular checking and preservative maintenance….....41
General Instructions……………………………………...51
Fault Tracing……………………………………………..55
Specifications……………………………………………..58
Fuel recommendations…………………………………..62
Wiring diagram for electrical system………………….63
Lubrication chart………………………………………...65

In Word Format Press Ctrl + Click to follow hyperlink

Type and serial numbers

General description of engine
Lubricating system
Fuel system
Cooling system
Instruments and controls
Equipment
Installation
Direction For Use
Regular Checking And Preventive Maintenance
General Instructions
Fault Finding
Specification

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Type and serial numbers
The engine type and serial numbers etc, are stamped on a plate on one side of
the engine. The reverse-reduction type and serial numbers and the ratio are stamped
on a plate on the rear. The first group of figures in the type number shows the engine type and
the last group the chassis type. The serial number is divided up in the same manner.

Fig 1. Type plate location on four-cylinder engine with mechanical reverse-reduction gearbox

Always quote type and serial numbers when ordering spare parts and in correspondence with the
factory on service matters.

Example. Engine: Type 1054-12977, serial number 2801-1003. Reverse-reduction gearbox :

Type 774698, serial number 1095.

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General description of engine
Bolinders Marine Diesel is a four stroke, direct-injection engine with overhead valves. The series ranges
From single to four-cylinder engines. This manual covers the three and four-cylinder engines. Cylinder
Liners, pistons and several other engine components are common to the entire series.

Fig 2. Three-cylinder marine diesel with mechanical reverse-reduction gearbox

Right-hand side (control side).

1. Induction manifold 11. Front engine bracket

2. Pressure pipe 12. Dipstick, engine
3. Valve cover 13. Crankcase ventilator
4. Ventilator ( oil filter ) 14. Fuel Pump
5. Fine filter, sealed 15. Injection pump
6. Fine filter, unsealed 16. Central engine bracket
7. Heat exchanger 17. Reverse-reduction gearbox, mechanical
8. Drain, fresh water 18. Rear engine bracket
9. Power take-off 19. Dipstick, reverse-reduction gear
10. Lubricant filter

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The cylinder block of cast iron has wet-type liners, i.e. replaceable liners directly flushed by cooling
Water. Two rubber seals in grooves in the lower liner seat prevent water from penetrating into the
crankcase. At the upper edge of the liner the water is prevented from penetrating upwards by the
cylinder head gasket. Water circulation is maintained by a centrifugal pump and governed by a
thermostat. The thermostat strives to keep the water at the best temperature for the engine, approx
160 – 175 deg F. ( 70 – 80deg C )

Fig 3. Three-cylinder marine diesel with mechanical reverse-reduction gearbox

Left-hand side.

1. Plug with zinc electrode 7. Draining pump, lubricant

2. Cap ( fresh water filler ) 8. Three-way cock for 7
3. Thermostat housing 9. Starting motor
4. Injector 10. Bilge pump
5. Water-cooled exhaust manifold 11. Generator
6. Ventilator ( oil filler of reverse-reduction gear 12. Cooling water pump
13. Adjustable belt pulley

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The crankshaft is carried in main bearings with replaceable shells. The bearing metal is
lead-bronze, lead-indium flashed. At the front end the shaft carries a gear which drives the
camshaft, injection pump and oil pump. The rear end carries the flywheel.

The aluminium-alloy pistons have three compression and two oil rings. The upper compression
ring of every piston is hand chromium plated to cut wear on cylinder liners and piston rings to
a minimum. Like the main bearings, the big-end bearings are fitted with replaceable shells.

Fig 4. Four-cylinder marine diesel with hydraulic reverse-reduction gearbox

Right-hand side ( control side )

1. Air filter 11. Front engine bracket

2. Relay 12. Dipstick, engine
3. Induction manifold 13. Crankcase ventilator
4. Valve cover 14. Fuel Pump
5. Ventilator 15. Injection pump
6. Generator 16. Central engine bracket
7. Plug with zinc electrode 17. Reverse-reduction gearbox, mechanical
8. Heat exchanger 18. Rear engine bracket
9. Pipe bend with drain cock for fresh water 19. Dipstick, reverse-reduction gear
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The cylinder head carries the inlet and exhaust valves and the injectors. Exhaust valve sealing
surfaces and all valve stem ends are faced with stellite, a heat-resisting alloy which greatly
lengthens the working life. Valve seats are shrunk-in replaceable insert rings of alloy-steel.

The timing gear drives the camshaft and the injection and lubricant pump

Fig 5. Four-cylinder marine diesel with mechanical reverse-reduction gearbox

Left-hand side

1. Cap ( fresh water filter ) 8. Three-way cock for 7

2. Thermostat housing 9. Crankcase ventilation
3. Injector 10. Oil dipstick
4. Water-cooled exhaust manifold 11. Feed pump
5. Fine filter, unsealed 12. Injection pump
6. Fine filter, sealed 13. Bilge pump
7. Draining pump for lubrication 14. Cooling water pump

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Working Principals
The engine is designed on the four-stroke principle and it’s operating cycle is illustrated in the
following figures.

Fig 6. Inlet stroke.

Just before the top dead centre is reached the inlet valve opens so that the piston sucks fresh air through
the air filter and into the cylinder on it’s way down again. The inlet passage in the cylinder
head is shaped to give the entering air a rotation in the cylinder.

Fig 7. Compression stroke.

The piston now moves upwards with both valves closed. This compresses the air, raising it’s
temperature above that of fuel’s ignition temperature. A specially shaped combustion cavity in the
piston top increases air rotation during this stroke. Shortly before the piston reaches the top dead
centre again fuel is injected to mix with the swirling air and combust as the pressure increases.

Fig 8. Power stroke.

Combustion vastly increases pressure and forces the piston downwards increases pressure and
forces the piston downwards in the cylinder to perform the useful work..

Fig 9. Exhaust stroke.

The exhaust valve opens immediately before the bottom dead centre is reached and the piston
starts moving upwards again to expel the combustion gases.
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Lubricating system
The dependability, life economical operation of an engine are largely determined by the efficiency of it’s
lubricating system and the care and attention devoted to it. It is for this reason that the Bolinder
lubricating system has been designed for simplicity and automatic function. Under normal conditions
all that is needed is to maintain the correct oil level, change the prescribed times and check the oil
pressure at regular intervals.

The engine is pressure lubricated ( fig 10 ). Pump 4 sucks the oil from sump 6 and feeds it to the various
lubricating points. To prevent the pump sucking up impurities deposited at the bottom of the sump, the oil
Is first compelled to pass through strainer 5 in the float on the pump section pipe.

Fig 10. General arrangements of oil system, three-cylinder engines.

1. Shot lubrication of valve mechanism 4. Oil Pump

2. Reduction valve 5. Strainer
3. Lubricant filter 6. Oil sump

From the pump the oil is forced through oil filter 3 for efficient cleaning. It is then distributed to all main
and big-end bearings, camshaft bearings, piston pins, valve mechanism and timing gears. Oil is fed to the
valve mechanism by so-called shot lubrication from the central camshaft bearing, implying that the oil is
supplied intermittently ( 1. fig 10 ). This arrangement restricts the amount of oil supplied and prevents
excessive lubrication.

On the right-hand side of the cylinder block front edge there is a reduction valve 2. This maintains the oil
pressure in the system at 40 – 60 lb/sq.in. ( 3 – 4 kg/sq.cm. ) at normal r.p.m. (1500) and normal engine
temperature ( 160 – 175deg F [ 70 – 80deg C ] ).

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Fuel system
The fuel system ( fig. 11 ) consists of fuel tank, feed pump with pre-filter, two fine-filters in series,
overflow valve, injection pump with centrifugal governor, injectors and piping.

Feed pump 5 ( fig 11 ) sucks the fuel from tank 1 and into prefilter 4, where it is given a preliminary
cleaning. From the feed pump the fuel is forced out through two fine filters, 6 and 7, connected in series.
In the first of these the fuel is compelled to pass through a pack of filtering plates which clean it
thoroughly. The second filter is sealed and is provided as an extra safety measure.

From the sealed filter the fuel passes to the fuel chamber of injection pump 8. This constant-stroke pump
has one pumping element for every engine cylinder. The plungers in these elements force the fuel through
the pressure pipes to injectors 9. The pressure pipes are connected to the injectors by special unions
containing a final edge filter which serves to stop any particles which may get into the pipes when they
are disconnected from the engine. From the injector nozzles the fuel is sprayed into the engine cylinders
through four holes. The high opening pressure ensures sufficient atomization of the fuel to achieve sure
starting even if the engine is cold. Leak-off oil from the nozzles is piped back to the fuel tank through line
10.

The first fine-filter has an overflow valve 11 ( fig. 11 ). This opens when fuel pressure inside the filter
reaches approx. 10 lb/sq.in. ( 0.7 kg/sq.cm. ). Fuel then flows out through the valve and is led back to the
tank through pipe 12. This arrangement also ensures automatic venting of the fine-filter as the fuel
continuously passes through the valve back to the tank. The centrifugal governor on the injection pump
permits engine r.p.m. setting at and desired speed up to a given maximum.

Fig 11. General arrangement of fuel system, three-cylinder engine.

1. Fuel tank 8. Injection pump

2. Strainer in filter 9. Injector
3. Sludge pocket wish drain cock 10. Leak-off pipe
4. Prefilter 11. Overflow valve
5. Feed pump 12. Return line to fuel tank
6. Fine-filter 13. Speed governor
12
7. Sealed fine-filter

Fig 12.Fine-filter, unsealed

1. Pipe line to sealed filter

2. Strainer in filter
3. Sludge pocket wish drain cock
4. Prefilter
5. Feed pump
6. Fine-filter
7. Sealed fine-filter

Fig 13.

1. Pipe line to injection pump

2. Air vent screw
3. Holding screw
4. Pipe line from unsealed fine-filter
5. Gasket
6. Felt ring
7. Pad filter
8. Felt ring

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Marine diesels are fitted with two fuel systems

Three-cylinder engine, 1053 Bosch

Four-cylinder engine, 1054 CAV..

In both pump types the amount of fuel is controlled by a centrifugal governor built integral with the
injection pump. The injection pump is also fitted with a cold-start device which primes the engine with
extra fuel at the moment of start. On CAV pumps the cold-start device is controlled by a readily
accessible button. On Bosch pumps it is controlled by a built-in, automatic link system.

Fig 14. Bosch injection pump for engine 1053

1. Lever for centrifugal governor 5. Prefilter

2. Lubricator 6. Hand pump
3. Air vent screw 7. Oil dipstick
4. Stop lever 8. Level plug for lubricant

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Fig 15. CAV injection pump for engine 1054

1. Cold start device

2. Air vent screw
3. Stop lever
4. Plug for inspection and oil filling
5. Ventilation filter
6. Idling screw
7. level plug for lubricant
8. Prefilter
9. Hand pump
10. Oil dipstick

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 Fig 16. Injector.

1. Pipe line from injection pump

2. Edge filter
3. Fuel passage
4. Nozzle
5. Nozzle needle
6. Pipe line for leak-off fuel

The fuel enters the injector through pipe 1. passes edge filter 2 and is led through passage 3 down to
nozzle 4. When fuel pressure reaches approx.. 1,920 lb/sq.in ( 135 kg/sq.cm. ) nozzle needle 5 lifts
and the fuel is sprayed into the cylinder through four holes. Leak-off fuel is carried back to the fuel
tank through pipe 6.

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Cooling system
The engine is water cooled ( figs. 27 and 28 ), the coolant being circulated by fresh water pump 3. This
pump is mounted at the front of the engine and is V-belt driven from the crankshaft pulley. The pump
sucks coolant from the lower part of the heat exchanger and feeds it into the cylinder block where it first
cools the liners and then passes through passages up into the cylinder head.

Fig 17. Cooling system, three-cylinder engine

1. Bottom valve (not delivered with engine) 6. Thermostat

2. Cooling water pump 7. Raw water discharge
3. Fresh water pump 8. Drain cock for raw water in exhaust manifold
4. Drain cock for raw water in heat exchanger 9. Drain cock for fresh water in engine
5. Heat exchanger

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 Fig 18 . Cooling system, four-cylinder engine

1. Bottom valve ( not delivered with engines )

2. Cooling water pump
3. Fresh water pump
4. Drain cock for raw water in heat exchanger
5. Heat exchanger
6. Thermostat
7. Raw water discharge
8. Drain cock for fresh water in exhaust manifold
9. Drain cock for fresh water in engine

Here it is sprayed out to provide concentrated cooling of the exhaust passages and the nozzles. The heated
coolant returns via the thermostat 6 to heat exchanger 5 where it is cooled by the raw water circulating in
the cooling coil Raw or sea water is pumped through the heat exchanger by pump 2.

As long as the coolant is cold, the thermostat is closed for return flow to the heat exchanger and it passes
instead through a bypass line direct to the pump suction side. This bypass consists of a special passage in
the cylinder head and block. Flow through the bypass line is slow and the coolant quickly heats up to
approx 160 deg F ( 70 deg C ). At this temperature the main passage through the thermostat begins to
open and is fully open by the time the temperature has reached approx 175 deg F ( 80 deg C ), the best
temperature for the engine.
To protect the engine against salt water corrosion and deposits, only fresh water or mixed with a suitable
amount of ethylene should be used in the cooling system

In the three-cylinder engine the raw water is led through the water jackets of the exhaust manifold after it
has passed through the heat exchanger. This cools the manifold and eliminates overheating and fire
hazards.
In the four-cylinder engine the raw water is discharged overboard when it leaves the heat exchanger. In
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this engine the exhaust manifold is cooled by the fresh water, which is led to the manifold after passing
through the cylinder block and head.
From the manifold it passes via the thermostat to the heat exchanger. The lower part of the four-cylinder
engine’s heat exchanger is arranged for cooling of the engine lubricating oil. This fed by the oil pump in
the crankcase through the heat exchanger and the lubricant cleaner and from there to the various engine
lubrication points.

Zink Electrodes
As a result of the potential difference between the different parts the cooling surface materials, galvanic
can arise during the circulation of salt-water through the cooling system of an engine.
This can happen to all salt-water cooled on the market. In spite of the use of high-quality material, the
galvanic current causes removal of material from parts of the cooling system having a higher potential, so
that “corrosion” occurs which weakens the material effected.
In order to prevent such damage occurring on BM engines, zinc electrodes ( zinc plugs ) are fitted into the
cooling systems of marine engines. In this way a difference in potential is caused between the zinc
electrode and the cooling surface material which is higher than that existing between the various parts of
the cooling surface. Because of this, any galvanic currents occurring will cause material to be removed
from the zinc electrode instead, so that reaction on the cooling surface material is prevented.

1053 Engine 1054 Engine

Because of the removal of material from the zinc electrodes which will occur as described above, there
will, after a certain time, be used up, so that replacement must be made.

The zinc electrodes must be removed for inspection every 200 running hours or once a month. If any
depositing is found on them, this must be carefully scraped off or brushed off with a wire brush.
If the electrode has been worn away by more than 50% of it’s original size, it should be replaced.

When refitting the electrode it is of the utmost importance that good metallic contact is obtained between
the electrode and the engine contact surface. Ensure that the zinc electrode is fitted into it’s adapter plug
and carefully clean the contact surfaces of the adapter plug, copper gasket and engine material before
carrying out refitting.

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Starting Devices
As standard the engine is fitted both with 12-volt electric starting equipment and hand starting.

Electric starting
The electric starting equipment, which is effectively protected against water and provides sure starting,
consists of starting motor, charging generator with relay, instruments and starter battery.

The 4-h.p. starting motor is mounted on the flywheel housing. It has a magnet coupling and a displaceable
armature. Engagement with the flywheel ring is by displacement of the entire armature.

The 130-watt generator is fitted with a voltage regulator and is mounted on the front end of the engine. It
is V-belt driven from a pulley on the water pump shaft.

Hand starting
Hand starting equipment consists of a raised cranking arrangement and decompression device. Cranking
is transferred to the crankshaft by chain and sprocket wheels. The arrangement includes automatic release
of the crankshaft sprocket as soon as the engine starts.

The decompression device consists of an eccentric shaft carried in the rocker shaft bearing brackets. This
eccentric can be used to lift exhaust valves from their seats. It is actuated by a shaft with handle mounted
valve cover.

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Instruments and Controls

All controls for the marine diesel are located so that they are accessible from the right-hand side of the
engine. The instrument panel, supplied separate from the engine, contains coolant thermometer, oil
pressure gauge, starting switch, starting button, instrument panel lighting and charging indicator lamp.

Fig 19. Instruments and Controls, three-cylinder engine.

1. Control lever 5. Decompression handle

2. Crank attachment 6. Crank attachment
3. Speed control 7. Automatically disengaging sprocket
4. Stop control 8. Connecting for pipe to oil pressure gauge

Before starting up a new engine, check location, operation and effect of the various controls. Make a habit
of glancing at the instruments every now and then during running to ensure discovery of abnormal
readings in good time.

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 Fig 20. Instruments and controls, four-stroke engine.

1. Oil pressure gage ( hydraulic ) 5. Decompression handle

2. Control lever 6. Crank attachment
3. Stop control 7. Automatically disengaging sprocket
4. Speed control 8. Hour counter

Fig 21. Instrument panel.

1. Oil pressure gauge

2. Coolant thermometer
3. Starting switch
4. Starting button
5. Changing indicator lamp
6. Instrument lighting switch

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Oil pressure gauge

The oil pressure gauge shows the oil pressure in the engine lubricating system. It does not, however, show
how much oil there is in the crankcase. At normal r.p.m. and load the pressure is to be 40-60 lb/sq.in.
( 3-4 kg/sq.cm. ). Higher pressure than the above can be caused by oil that is too viscous for the
prevailing temperature.

If the oil pressure falls to zero or near to it during running, the engine must be stopped immediately and
the fault traced..

Coolant thermometer

The thermometer shows the temperature of the coolant and, consequently, the working temperature of the
engine. Normal coolant temperature is 160-175 deg F ( 70-80 deg C ). If the normal temperature shows
excessively high temperature for a long period at a time, this may be due to circulation difficulties caused
by clogged cooling system passages,

Charging indicator lamp

Normally, the charging indicator lamp is not alight when the engine is running; this shows that the battery
is being charged. When the lamp lights this indicates that the battery is discharging, which is normal
when idling. If the lamp lights when running at higher speeds, there is usually a fault in the electrical
system.

Starting switch

The starting switch is below the thermometer on the instrument panel. The circuit is closed through the
switch when the key is turned clockwise. Do not forget to switch off the current when the engine is
stopped.. Otherwise the battery will discharge.

Starting button

The engine is started electrically by pressing in the starting button to the left of the starting switch on the
instrument panel. Release the button as soon as the engine starts.

On the left-hand side of the instrument panel there is a switch for the panel lighting.

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Equipment
Reverse-Reduction Gearbox

General
Bolinder Marine Diesels are equipped with a sturdy, highly reliable reverse-reduction gearbox. This self-
contained unit is directly flanged to the flywheel housing and is available in two models ; one
mechanically and one hydraulically operated. The same reverse-reduction gearbox is used for both the
three and the for cylinder engines.

Mechanically Operated Reverse-Reduction

Gearbox
Power from the engine flywheel is referred to the reverse-reduction gear through a twin-disc friction
clutch. The gearbox is designed for full power transfer in both ahead and stern drive.
The reverse reduction gear is used both for reversing the direction of propeller shaft rotation and for
reducing the r.p.m. This is done by gearing which, via the drive shaft, transfers the power to the propeller
shaft when either the ahead or the astern clutch plate in the powerful, spring-loaded duplex clutch is
engaged. The clutch is designed to transmit the maximum torque developed by these engines with a wide
margin to spare.

The reduction gear is available with a ratio of either 1.5 to 1 ( more exactly : 1.51 :1 ahead and 1.97:1
astern ) or 3 to 1 ( more exactly : 2.88:1 ahead and 2.53:1 astern ).
The gears are of nickel-chrome steel and case-hardened. The lowest gear works in an oil bath provides
automatic lubrication of all of them. The design permits continuous drive for long periods at a time.
The gear shafts are carried in ball and roller bearings. Shaft seals prevent water from penetrating into and
oil from leaking out of the gearbox.

Fig 22. control lever position

1. Ahead drive
2. Natural
3. Ahead Drive

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24
Neutral

Both clutch plates are disengaged. Gears and propeller shaft stationary

Ahead Drive

The figures in the following description refer to fig. 23.

When the control lever is pushed forward this movement is transferred via clutch operating mechanism
and bearing 11 and a link system with toggle mechanism 8 to pressure plate 3. This plate engages the
clutch plate 6 farthest from the engine with rear plate 7 of the clutch compartment. Engine shaft rotation
is transferred via this disc to ahead shaft 10 with gear 15 and further through gear 22 to driven shaft 25.
The propeller shaft then rotates in the opposite direction to the engine shaft ( right-hand propeller ).

Fig 23. Mechanically controlled reverse-reduction gearbox

1. Clutch compartment, front plate 18. Ball bearing, astern shaft

2. Clutch plate, front ( for astern drive ) 19. Knurled nut
3. Pressure plate 20. End cover
4. Flange on plate hub 21. Lubricating nipple, support bearing
5. Shaft end for support bearing 22. Gear, ahead gearing
6. Clutch plate, rear ( for ahead drive ) 23. Gear astern gearing
7. Clutch compartment, rear plate 24. Propeller thrust bearing
8. Toggle mechanism 25. Driven shaft
9. Astern shaft 26. Seals
10. Ahead shaft 27. Idler gear
11. Ball bearing, clutch operating mechanism 28. Oil sump
12. Lubricating hose, clutch bearing 29. Roller bearing, driven shaft
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 13. Clutch compartment, front plate 30. Nut
14. Clutch plate, front ( for astern drive ) 31. Cover
15. Pressure plate 32. Cover with seal
16. Flange on plate hub 33. Support bearing between ahead and -
17. Shaft end for support bearing astern shafts

Ahead Drive

When the control lever is pushed backwards this movement is transferred via clutch operating mechanism
and link system to the plate which engages forward clutch plate 2 with forward clutch plate 1 of the clutch
compartment. Engine shaft rotation is transferred via gear 17 on astern shaft 9, idler gear 27 and gear 23
to driven shaft 25, which, together with the propeller shaft rotates in the opposite direction to the previous
case.

Adjusting

The powerful duplex clutch with toggle mechanism is spring loaded by the springs in each of the spring
housings. This spring loaded mechanism is designed so that it follows up and compensates wear on the
clutch plates, making all adjustment unnecessary. The mechanism permits a clearance of 0.08 – 0.12 in.
( 2.1 – 3.2 mm. ) on both sides of a plate when the other clutch is engaged. This clearance increases to a
maximum of ¼ in. ( 6.5 mm. ) in the worn condition. The easiest way to check plate wear and determine
when they need replacing is to check the position on the coupling mechanism shaft end. When the plate
facings are new the distance between the shoulder on the shaft and upper part of the spring housing is
approx. 5/32 in. ( 4mm.) ( see fig 24 ) when the clutch is engaged in one direction or the other. When the
facings are worn so much that they need replacing the shoulder on the shaft is about 1/32 in. ( 1 mm. )
above the upper part of the spring housing. ( see fig 25 ).

Fig 24.

26
 Fig 25.

Facing Replacement

If, for some reason or other the clutch is disassembled or worn facings are replaced, the following must be
observed :
The flanges on the spliced plate hubs must be turned towards each other, see 4, fig 23. Otherwise the
plates will not take up the correct positions during operation.

Oil level and recommended oils

The lower part of the reverse reduction gearbox forms an oil sump in which the reduction gears work in a
bath of oil. Oil level in the reverse-reduction gearbox must be maintained between the level marks on the
dipstick, fig 26. Check the level daily and top up with new high-grade oil when necessary. Use oil with
the same viscosity as that of the oil in the engine.
The oil capacity of the reverse-reduction gearbox is 5.8 Imp pints ( 3.3 litres )

fig 26.

Oil Changing

Changing the oil in the reverse-reduction gearbox the first time after 100 hours running and then every
6000 hours, but at least once a year. If the engine operates at a higher speed than 1,5000 r.m.p the oil
must be changed every 300 hours. Use oil of the same grade and viscosity as for the engine.
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Ball Bearing Grease

The release bearing is lubricated through a nipple ( 13, fig 23 ) which is connected to the bearing by
flexible hose 12. The support bearing in the flywheel and bearing 33 between the ahead and astern
shafts in the reverse and astern shafts in the reverse-reduction gear are lubricated through nipple 21 fig23
at the rear end of the astern. Shaft. The hexagon plug in end cover 20 must be removed to gain access to
this nipple. Lubricate both these nipples with a high-grade, heat-resistant ball bearing grease every 25 hrs.

DRAINING PUMP

Oil changing in the engine and reverse-reduction gear is facilitated by the provision of a draining pump
on the left-hand side of the flywheel housing. Pipes lead from the pump to the oil sumps of the engine and
the reverse-reduction gearbox.
The cock underneath the crankcase pump can be set in three positions. Handle straight down : Draining
pump connected to oil sump of engine. Handle straight forward : Draining pump connected to oil sump of
reverse-reduction gearbox.
Handle straight back : Cock closed. ( Always set the cock in this position after changing oil )

Fig 29. Draining pump

1. Pump handle
2. Draining pump
3. Connection for oil discharge pipe
4. Drain pipe from reverse-reduction gear
5. Three-way cock
6. Drain pipe from engine

COOLANT PUMP

The coolant pump is mounted on the left-hand side of the engine and V-belt driven from the crankshaft.
The pump impeller of oil proof rubber has been splined metal hub and easily removed after taking off the
end of the pump. The working principals of the coolant pump are illustrated below.

Fig 30. Working principals of coolant pump.

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1. When the impeller blades leave the pressure plates they straighten out. As they continue to rotate a
vacuum arises behind them and water flows into the pump.
2. Continued rotation of the impeller moves the water from the inlet to the discharge port. Each blade
carriers a given amount of water with it.
3. When the blades regain contact with the pressure plate the y flex and the blades following up force the
water out through the discharge port. Warning. Always check before starting that the bottom valve
( 1. figs 17 and 18 ) is open. If the pump is allowed to run without water the impeller ( of rubber ) may be
So badly damaged by friction that it becomes unserviceable.

BILGE PUMP

The engine is fitted with a bilge pump of the same design as the coolant pump. The pump is driven via a
manually operated friction clutch. The control lever 6, fig 31, is pushed upward to engage the clutch.
When the stop on the clutch lever contacts the stop lug on the pump housing in it’s engaged position, the
clutch must be adjusted.
Adjust as follows : Stop the engine and engage the clutch. Loosen the clamping screw for the drive sleeve
and turn the sleeve a little in a clockwise direction seen from the flywheel end. Do not turn the sleeve too
much each time and make sure that the coupling element does not following the sleeve round. Lock the
sleeve to the coupling element with the clamping screw.
After engaging, check that the clutch arm tensioning device passes the dead point. If it does not, loosen
the drive sleeve again, turn it clockwise a little further and relock..

Fig 31. Coolant and bilge pumps

1. Coolant pump
2. Pipe ( Bypass to bilge pump }
3. Connection for oil discharge pipe
4. Drain pipe from reverse-reduction gear
5. Three-way cock
6. Drain pipe from engine

NOTE. When adjusting set the distance between the stop lugs as 3/16 -3/8 in. ( 5-10mm. )
After using the bilge pump it must be disconnected as soon as the boat has been pumped dry. To prevent
the impeller being damaged by friction if the bilge pump continues running when there is no bilge water
left to pump out, the pump is connected to the coolant pump pressure line by pipe 2, fig 31,which
continuously supplies the pump with a little water.

29
Installation
Great attention should be paid to practicability and accessibility when installing the marine diesel
engines.
The bed must be right and designed to distribute the load over the largest possible area of the hull. Before
bolting down the engines, make sure that there are no bending loads between the frame and the bearing
brackets or engine bed. Make sure also that the engine and propeller shafts line up properly. Alignment,
which is best done with the help of shims, should be rechecked both after launching and when the engine
has been in service some time in order in order sure that the engine bed has not given.

WARNING. Engine stern slope must not exceed 15”

All coolant pipe lines should be of copper and run without sharp bends. Drain cocks should be fitted
wherever water locks can arise.
If there is no engine casing, the marine diesel should be installed with a belt guard. This can, for instance,
be in the form of a light angle-iron structure, covered with wire netting and attached to the engine bed by
wing nuts for easy removal for belt replacements, etc

Directions for use

In order to help you make the best use of the engine’s good operating properties we have prepared the
following advice for its care and maintenance.
Make a habit of listening to the engine every now and then while it is running.
If it runs unevenly or badly the reason should be traced at once and the fault remedied.
If the oil consumption has become abnormally high or if there are other indications of wear it is usually
sufficient to give the engine a thorough overhaul. This overhaul should be performed by a repair shop or
specially trained mechanic. All that is required otherwise is a certain amount of preventative checking.
This checking should be done by the operator himself. No special tools are required. Some advice should
on this care and attention, as well as engine starting, is given below.
Correct lubrication is of extreme importance, ensuring trouble-free running and long life. Always keep
the fuel and oil, the engine and its filters quite clean. This prevents foreign particles from getting into the
engine and causing abnormal wear. Refill the fuel tank in good time; this prevents air lock in the fuel
system. It is inadvisable to race an old engine or put it under full load immediately after start. Check that
all nuts are properly tightened.

RUNNING IN
The running in period of an engine is the most important part of its entire life. During the first 50 hours of
this period the engine must be run carefully, This is done to entire that the cylinder walls pistons and
bearing surfaces acquire the hare bright surface that provides maximum length of life.
Do not subject the engine to long hard loads during the running- in period. On the other hand, however
the engine should not be run all too slowly as the piston rings might then stick and cause high fuel
consumption, Although 50 hours running marks the end f the running-in period, it is still inadvisable to
operate the engine under heavy load for long period the engine lubrication oil must be changed more
often than is subsequently normal, Change the first time after 30 hours, at the same time cleaning the oil
sump strainer and draining off any sediment from the lubricant cleaner. Change again at the 100-hour
mark and then regularly every 200 hours.
Every time the oil is changed, drain the lubricant cleaner to avoid mixing new and old oil. Never rinse the
engine out with flushing oil; bearing pressures in a diesel engine are too high to permit the use of such oil.

30
 Top

Before delivery, all engines are run on the factory test bench/ These tests show that all fits are satisfactory
and we therefore disclaim all responsibility for any piston or bearing seizing caused by neglectful
running-in etc. Filter all fuel before filling.
Absolute cleanliness is essential in connection with all work on the diesel engine, particularly the
injection pump and injectors.

RPRECAUTIONS BEFORE STARTING

1) Make sure that the cooling system is quite full. Use only pure water, preferably rain water which is the
best coolant. The filler cap is of pressure type and it is therefore necessary to exercise caution if it has to
be removed when the engine is warm. Turn the cap slowly anti clockwise until resistance is felt. Any
steam will then blow off through the overflow pipe and the cap may then be removed without risk. Never
fill up with cold water when the engine is hot, this can cause cracking. Check that the cooling system
bottom valve is open. Check also at regular intervals that the strainer in the coolant inlet is clean and free
from impurities that might clog the inlet and interfere with the cooling. After the engine has started, check
the salt water discharge to make sire that the salt water is circulating properly.

Fig 33.

2) Check oil level in engine and reverse-reduction gearbox. The level should be between the two marks
on the dipsticks. Always use diesel lubricant “ For Service DG” when changing or topping up. If oil
consumption has brought the level to the lower mark, top up with new oil. Before the level is checked the
engine must have stood idle long enough for the oil to run down into the sump.

Fig 34. Checking engine oil level.

3) Check that there is fuel in the tank. Always use clean fuel and take care to prevent dirt from getting
into the tank when filling. Also check, every now and then, that the breather holes in the cap are not
clogged.

31
 Fig 35.

STARTING
Electric starting
1. Turn staring key (to close circuit through starting switch). Charging indicator lamp on instrument panel
lights.
2. Advance speed control lever about ¾.
3. Press in start button.
4. Release start button.
5. In cold weather, press in cold-start button before trying to start. Note that this does not apply to the
three-cylinder engine, which is fitted with Bosch injection pump. For this engine please see instructions
under “Starting in cold weather” Page 43

WARNING. If the engine does not start at the first attempt, both the engine and the starter must
be stopped before a new attempt is made. Otherwise the starter motor and ring gear teeth may be
damaged.

Hand Starting
Position 1. Position of decompression lever when engine is running. Decompression device not in use

Position 2. Decompression device holds open all exhaust valves except that of first cylinder in which
compression is obtained.

Position 3. No compression in any of cylinders. All exhaust valves depressed.

Hand Starting Procedure as follows:

1. Set decompression lever at engine front end on position 2, fig.36. On the four-cylinder engine, which is
fitted with two decompression levers (one for each cylinder block), the front lever is set on position 2 and
the rear on position 3.
2. Advance hand control on injection pump governor about ¾.
3. Press in cold-start button on governor. (Does not apply to three-cylinder engine, which is fitted with
Bosch injection pump)

32
 Top

4. Turn crankshaft with starting handle until there is compression in the first cylinder. The crank should
be applied so that its handle is on the way up at this moment.
5. Pull round steadily until compression resistance has just lightened; at that moment the piston has
passed the T.D.C. and this crankshaft has practically two revolutions to go before there is again
compression in the cylinder.
6. Crank two powerful turns to obtain compression and ignition in the first cylinder. As soon as ignition
is obtained, quickly return the decompression lever to position 1; the engine will then work on all
cylinders

The engine can also be hand started as follows:

1. Set the decompression lever on position 3; all exhaust valves are then depressed and there will will be
no compression in any of the cylinders.
2. Advance the speed control lever ¾.
3 Give 6-7 powerful turns with the crank to attain sufficient rotational speed.
4. Quickly return the decompression lever to position 1 to obtain compression and ignition in the
cylinders. Run the engine a few minutes with the reverse-reduction gear in neutral. In cold weather the
lubricating oil is so viscous at the start that it must be warmed up before it can pass quickly enough
through the oil passages to the pistons and bearings; otherwise the engine may seize.
Check oil pressure as soon as the engine has started. Lowest permissible pressure is 28 lb/sq.in. (2
kg/sq.cm). Make a habit of checking the oil pressure every now and then; it should be between 40 and 60
lbs/sq.in. (3-4 kg/sq.cm.).
Check coolant temperature when engine has been running a while. It should be between 160 and 170 deg
F (70-80 deg C), which is the best working temperature for the engine.
Do not forget to make sure that the charging indicator lamp goes out when the engine starts. This shows
that the generator is supplying current. If the lamp fails to go out, something is wrong.

Fig 35.

STOPPING
Stop the engine by moving the injection pump stop lever backwards to the stop position and holding it
there until the engine no longer turns over.
Break the circuit by turning the key in the starting switch when the engine has stopped. If this is not done
the battery will discharge.
If the engine is to stand idle for a longer period or if there is a danger of frost, all cooling water should be
33
drained off. Turn off the bottom cock and drain the salt water from the coolant pump, pipe lines and heat
exchanger (4, fig. 17 and 18). On the three-cylinder engine salt water must also be drained from the
exhaust manifold (8, fig. 17).

Fresh water that does not contain anti-freeze must also be drained off whenever there is a danger of frost.
To drain, first loosen the cap on the heat exchanger, otherwise some of the water might remain in the
cooling system and damage in cases of frost. Fresh water is drained from the engine through a cock on the
engine block (9. fig. 17 and 18) and, on the four-cylinder engine, also through a cock on the exhaust
manifold (8, fig.18). Fresh water in the heat exchanger is drained through cock 8, fig.2, and the cock on
inlet bend, 9 fig. 4.

STARTING IN COLD WEATHER

If the temperature is in the neighbourhood of or below 32 deg F (0 deg C), starting should be facilitated as
follows:
Three-cylinder engine
When the engine is to be stopped, set the governor hand control lever on the idling position before pulling
out the stop control. As soon as the engine has stopped, push in the stop control and then advance the
hand control lever again about ¾.
This procedure when the engine and injection pump are worm and the oil is thin, ensures certain
engagement of the automatic cold-start device in the injection pump governor. The governing rod in the
pump is then pushed forward past the normal stop and the engine receives an extra portion of fuel at the
starting instant.
Four-cylinder engine
Press in the cold-start button. This pushes the pump governing rod past the normal stop and the engine
receives an extra portion of fuel at the starting instant. Note that the speed control lever must be advanced
about half way before the button is pressed in. Under no circumstances whatever may the button be
locked in the pressed-in position once the engine has started; the amount of fuel injected will then be so
great that it can cause serious damage to the engine.

Fig 37.

34
Disengage the engine when starting. It will then turn over easier and permit a higher starting motor speed.
At exceptionally low temperatures it is advisable to store the battery on warm premises if the engine is to
stand idle for any length of time. Refit the battery just before starting; it is then warm and can provide
maximum power.

WARNING
Never put the engine under heavy load immediately after start. Failure to warm up at low r.p.m. and light
load subjects the engine to abnormal stresses. This is because the oil is so viscous when it is cold that it
cannot pass quickly enough through the fine passages to the pistons and bearings. There is, of course, also
a danger of the engine seizing under these conditions.

BLEEDING THE FUEL SYSTEM

If the engine is new, if the fuel tank has been run dry or if air has got into the fuel system in some way or
other, the system must be bled before the engine can be started.

Fig 38.

1. Bleed the large fine filter first. Open the bleeder screw on the filter and work the hand pump until fuel
free from air bubbles flows out at the vent.

2. Close the screw and open instead the corresponding screw on the injection pump. Pump with the hand
pump again until fuel free from bubbles flows out. When the screw has been closed again the engine is
ready to start. The pressure pipes can, of course, also be bled, but a quick start can usually be obtained
without going to this trouble.

Top

35
 Fig 39.

Regular checking and preventive maintenance

DAILY
1. Remove and clean the air filter oil chamber and refill with oil to the level mark. Used engine oil will be
good enough for this purpose. At regular intervals remove the entire air filter and clean the filtering
element in paraffin or petrol.
The condition under which the engine operates are, of course, decisive for how often the air filter must be
cleaned. It will, however, soon be found whether it needs cleaning every day or if the period between
cleanings can be extended.
Always pay special attention to the air filter and its maintenance; the life of the engine is greatly
dependent upon the cleanliness of the air sucked into the cylinders.

36
 Fig 40.

2. Check that no oil, fuel or water leaks out of the engine anywhere. If a leak is found, see that ii is
remedied as soon as possible. Try also to keep the engine clean; it will then be easier to find any leaks. A
clean engine is also much easier to keep in good trim.

Fig 41.

Top

37
EVERY 50 HOURS
1. Check oil level in injection pump and centrifugal governor. In the pump it should be between the two
marks on dipstick A, and in the governor at plug B. If the level is too low, top up with the same oil as is
used for the engine.

Fig 42.

2. Drain off sludge from fuel tank. Open the cock and let some of the fuel run out and take the sludge
with it. This should be done when the fuel has stood still for at least one whole night.

3. Check belt tension. Adjust the generator belt by loosening the two holding screws and the adjustable
mounting so that the generator can be pulled outwards. It must be possible to depress the belt about 3/16
in. (5 mm.) at arrow A.
Adjust the belt between crankshaft and pump shaft by screwing the outer half of the crankshaft pulley
inwards or outwards in relation to the inner half. It must be possible to depress the belt about 3/8 in. (10
mm.) at arrow B. The two pulley halves are locked relative to each other with locking screws.
Adjust the cooling water pump belts about ¾ in. (20 mm.) at arrow C.

Top

38
 Fig 43.

4. Check that the battery electrolyte is about 3/8 in. (10 mm.) above the plates. Top up with distilled water
if the level is too low. Make sure that the cable lugs are clean, properly tightened, and smeared with a thin
coat of Vaseline or similar to protect them against corrosion. Be careful when working on the battery, the
electrolyte is corrosive.
Check the degree of charge with a hydrometer. This shows the specific gravity of electrolyte (fig. 44),
which is 1.275-1.285 when the battery is fully charged. When the specific gravity has fallen to 1.230 the
battery must immediately be re-charged at a charging station.

Fig 44.

Top
39
EVERY 100 HOURS
1. Lubricate the water pump with heat-resistant ball bearing grease. Do not apply too much grease,
4-5 shots with the grease gun are quite sufficient.

Fig 45.

2. Lubricate the starting motor. Remove the plug in the end and lubricate with engine oil. Do not add
more than a few drops at a time. Too much oil can damage the starting motor.

Fig 46.

Top
40
EVERY 200 Hours
1. Change the engine oil. See that the engine is run warm before pumping out the oil. Turn the cock on
the drain pump suction side so that the handle points straight down, fig. 29. Pump out all oil.
Remove the plug in the lubricant filter, fig. 47, and make sure that the oil runs out properly.
Replace the plug. Shut off the cock and fill with diesel lubricating oil “For Service DG” to the upper level
mark on the dipstick. Do not forget that it must always be “For Service DG” oil, never ordinary engine
oil; bearing pressures in a diesel engine are too high to permit the use of such oil.

Fig 47.

2. Clean the injection pump pre-filter. Loosen the nut and swing the clamp to one side so that the glass
and filter cloth can be removed. Wash the glass and cloth in clean petrol and refit. To prevent air leaks,
check that the gasket for the glass is undamaged.

Fig 48.

41
.

3. Remove the plug in the bottom of the fine-filter and drain off the sludge. Never make any adjustments
to the filter element itself; if you suspect that it is clogged, let a diesel mechanic check she filter. The
element must never be cleaned and should instead be replaced when it becomes clogged. With the help of
a low pressure gauge, a diesel mechanic can easily see if the element is clogged or not.

Fig 49.

4. Remove the ventilator from the cover over the valve mechanism and wash it in clean petrol or paraffin

Fig 50.

EVERY 500 Hours

1. The lubricant cleaner on the right-hand side of the engine has a replaceable filtering element. This
element gradually becomes clogged by the impurities it collects and must therefore be replaced every 500
hours – earlier if the oil dirties quickly.
This is done by loosening the screw in the lid and lifting out the cleaner and element, fig. 51. Clean the
lubricant cleaner thoroughly with petrol or paraffin. See that the gasket seals properly when the cleaner is
re-fitted. If it does not, fit a new one. Take care that no dirt gets into the piping.

42
 Top

Fig 51.

2. Check the valve clearance. This check must also be performed every time the cylinder block has been
removed or the cylinder head nuts re-tightened. The valves must not be adjusted with the engine running;
valve and piston might then knock together.
Correct valve adjustment is of great importance and we therefore recommend careful study of the
procedure to be followed. The valves are numbered from the front end of the engine.

Fig 52.

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 Top

Three-cylinder engine
1. Pull the crankshaft round and watch the movement of the first valve rocker arm. Note the point where
the valve is widest open and turn the crankshaft one full revolution. Now adjust the first and third valves.
2. Check the rocker arm of the fourth valve. Pull the crankshaft round one revolution after the valve has
opened to a maximum. Now adjust the fourth and fifth valves.
3. Check the rocker arm of the second valve. Pull the crankshaft round one revolution after the valve has
opened to a maximum. Now adjust the second and sixth valves.
Remember : 1-3, 4-5, 2-6

Four-cylinder engine
This engine can be adjusted in a manner equal to the three-cylinder engines but in the sequence
1-6, 2-4, 3-8, 5-7.
The first figure in every group denotes the valve to be watched when pulling round the crankshaft. The
two valves in each pair must be adjusted together. The valves of the four-cylinder engine can also be
adjusted when the pistons in the respective cylinders are at the T.D.C. following the compression stroke.
When the piston is in this position the camshaft cam is at its downward position. The best way to set the
piston at its T.D.C. is to watch the rocker arm. When the exhaust valve closes and the inlet valve is just
about to open for the 1st cylinder, the piston in the 4th cylinder is at its T.D.C. following the compression
stroke. When the exhaust valve closes and the inlet valve is just about to open for the 4th cylinder, the
piston in the 1st cylinder is at its T.D.C. following the compression stroke.
The above relationship also applies to the 2nd and 3rd cylinders. Adjust with the setting screw on the
rocker arm after loosening the lock nut. Check with the feeler gauge. This is to be 0.016 in. (0.40 mm.)
for inlet valves and 0.018 in. (0.45 mm.) for exhaust valves. Tighten the nut properly.
Note that the valve clearances are for warm engines.

3. Check injector opening pressure and spray shape. This work should be done by an authorized shop
having the necessary testing pump. When opening pressure is correct injection takes place at
1920 +70 -0 lb/sq.in. (135 +5 -0 kg/sq.cm.). If there is no authorized shop available, spray can be checked
by removing the injectors from the engine, one at a time, and refitting them with the nozzle pointing
outwards from the engine. Set the decompression lever on position 3 and turn over the engine with the
starting motor or crank. The fuel must then leave the nozzle thoroughly atomized (shape A) and the spray
must cut off sharply after delivery of the fuel. If the fuel discharges as a jet or dribbles from any of the
nozzles after injection, such nozzles must be adjusted or replaced. B and C show incorrect spray shapes.

44
 Fig 53. Spray shapes

Exercise care when testing, the sprays posses considerable penetrative force and can harm eyes, etc

EVERY 1000 HOURS

1. Check injection pump setting.
2. Check centrifugal governor (max. speed and idling).
3. Check cold-start device.
4. Replace element in un-scaled fine-filter.
5. Check fuel feed pressure.
6. Clean strainer in oil sump.
8. Check starting motor and generator brushes.
9. Check thermostat.

EVERY 2500 HOURS

1. De-carbonize engine and grid valves .
2. Recondition starting motor and generator.
3. Replace element in sealed fine-filter

If oil consumption is excessive (more than 0.053 oz-h.p.h [1.5 g/h.p.h.] excel.oil changes) or if there are
other signs of wear:

1. Replace piston rings and check pistons and liners.

2. If necessary, recondition engine.

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45
General Instructions
It is obvious that a complicated piece of machinery like a diesel engine must be taken well care of if it is
to give trouble-free service. The instructions we have already given for the care, maintenance and
checking of the engine will now be complemented with other directions of a more general nature.

Lubricating System
We have already mentioned the necessity of using special so-called diesel lubricant in the engine. This is
not just to make things as complicated as possible; the diesel engine really needs a special lubricant if it is
to give its best. High combustion pressure and running temperature demand special attention to
lubrication and have led to the development of the so-called HD (Heavy Duty) oils. These oils contain
chemical additives which prevent them oxidizing at high temperatures, etc. Ordinary engine oil, on the
other hand, oxidizes rapidly and the products easily cause trouble in the form of stuck piston rings and
valves, clogged oil passages, etc.
Therefore, use only the special diesel oil “For Service DG” recommended by well-known oil companies.
Never mix oils of different grades or makes.

Recommended lubricating oils for engine.

At temperatures above 32 deg F (0 deg C) SAE 20 or 20 W

At temperatures below 32 deg F (0 deg C) SAE 10 or 10W

The carbon-dissolving properties of the HD oils make it difficult to judge the condition of an oil by its
colour. It is therefore important to follow the oil changing instructions based on our experience.
Correct lubrication with suitable oil is an important part of an engine’s maintenance. Lubricant costs are
insignificant compared to the probable cost of neglected lubrication. Make a habit of lubricating all round
and changing oil at the regular intervals listed on the lubricating chart at the end of this book. These times
presuppose the use of high-grade lubricants.

FUEL SYSTEM
Clean fuel is an absolute pre-requisite for trouble-free engine running. Just how important this is, will
perhaps be more readily understood if we explain the precaution working of the fuel pump. At an exact
piston position and during an extremely short period – 1 ½ thousandths of a second in normal operation –
the nozzle needle must lift, an accurately measured amount of fuel be injected and the spray be sharply
cut off. The quantity injected into every cylinder is smaller than one drop for every pump stroke. If there
is to be any possibility whatever of such performance, every part of the injection system must be made
with extreme precision. We can, for instance, mention that the clearance between the pump plunger and
its cylinder is only 4/1000,000 in. (1/1000mm.). This is about 25 times smaller than the thickness of an
ordinary hair. It is thus obvious that even the most minute foreign particles in the fuel can have a highly
destructive influence if they get into the fuel system. To prevent this, the engine is provided with effective
filtering arrangements. However, these filters cannot stop any large quantities of impurities without
clogging. As soon as a filter becomes clogged, resistance becomes excessive and the engine runs poorly.
This is readily prevented by keeping the fuel a clean as possible when filling it into the tank. To this end
we are including the following some advice on storing and filling fuel.

46
 Top

Storing in tank

Fig 54.

1. Fuel cock. (pump)

2. Tank to slope 1 in. (25 mm.) per yard (metre) of length
3. Drain cock for sediment

The best way to store fuel is to tank it as shown in fig. 54. This gives the fuel time to stand long enough
for the foreign particles that it always contains to sink.

Storing in barrels

Fig 55.

47
 Top

If it is not possible to store the fuel in the tank and barrels have to be used instead, several should be laid
up on a cradle so that the fuel can stand at least 24 hours. The barrels must be protected against rain and

dust. Never fill the engine fuel tank with fuel from barrels that have newly been moved. An extra
safeguard is to use a funnel with milk filter when filling the tank. Although this takes longer, the extra
time will be repaid time and time again by lessened running interruptions and reduced repair costs. In the
winter the fuel tank should be kept as full as possible. This counteracts the formation of condensation
water in the tank..

Remember, then, that it pays to use clean fuel.

Fine filter

On the other hand, it never pays to attempt to clean a fine filter. When the filter clogs, the entire element
must be replaced, and this should be done by a diesel mechanic.

Sealing

All seals have been applied to prevent other than authorized diesel shops from repairing these parts.
Never remove the seals, this makes the factory guarantee non-valid. Although there are no seals on the
injectors we do not recommend dismantling them if they are suspected of being faulty. It is far better to
keep one or two injectors in reverse. The faulty injector can then be replaced with one of the spares and
handed in to a diesel shop for repair.

COOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system functions effectively only if all passengers in the cylinder block, cylinder head and
heat exchanger are free from deposits and impurities. It is therefore of primary importance to use the
purest water possible, preferably rain water. It is also advisable to use an anti-rust additive in the fresh
water. This prevents the formation of deposits caused by rusting. See that the fresh water is changed at
regular intervals. It will then be seen at once if the water contains rust: if it does the system should be
flushed out thoroughly before re-filling.
Fresh water temperature is also very important and should be carefully checked. See that the temperature
remains between 160 and 175 deg F (70-80 deg C) when the engine is running. Do not run the engine
with low fresh water temperature, this only results in normal wear.

Anti-freeze coolant additive

During the seasons when air temperatures may drop below freezing point, the cooling water should be
mixed with an anti-freeze additive. This avoids the necessity of draining off the water whenever the
engine is to stand idle. The best coolant is neutral ethylene glycol – water. Denatured alcohol can, of
course, also be used but is not as good as it evaporates rather quickly at the engine working temperature.
Do not forget to flush out the cooling system thoroughly before filling with antifreeze coolant. The
following table shows the freezing points of various mixtures of ethylene glycol and water.

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48
Ethylene glycol or Specific gravity Freezing point
Denatured alcohol ____________________________________________________________________

In percentage by denatured ethylene denatured ethylene

Volume alcohol glycol alcohol glycol

10 0.988 1.012 27 deg F (- 3 deg C) 25 deg F (- 4 deg C)

20 0.975 1.027 18 deg F (- 8 deg C) 16 deg F (- 9 deg C)
30 0.964 1.041 7 deg (- 14 deg C) 5 deg F (- 15 deg C)
40 0.954 1.055 - 6 deg F (-21 deg C) -7.5 deg F (- 22 deg C)
50 0.933 1.068 -22 deg F (-30 deg C) -36 deg F (-38 deg C)
60 0.913 1.076 -40 deg F (-40 deg C) -69 deg F (-56 deg C)
70 0.897 - -65 deg F (-54 deg C) ------

Note that the content of ethylene glycol should not exceed the 60% that gives maximum lowering of the
freezing point.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Pay proper attention to the battery. Make sure that the electrolyte is always about3/8 in. (10 mm.) above
the upper edge of the plates. Check this once a week and top up with distilled water whenever necessary.
At the same time, check that the battery is properly fixed and that the cable lugs are thoroughly tightened,
and smeared with Vaseline or similar. Remember that a neglected battery is soon ruined, causing starting
trouble and unnecessary experience.
In the wintertime it is particularly important to keep the battery charged. The electrolyte in a charged
battery freezes and destroys it. Under particularly severe conditions of cold it is therefore best to store the
battery on warm premises. This not only reduces the frost hazard, it also ensures that the battery delivers
full output when reconnected to the system at room temperature.
The generator requires no special attention. On the other hand, the starter motor has a lubricator on the
rear bearing cap and this should be given a few drops of thin oil every 100 hours. Once a year, the
generator and starter motor should be overhauled in a special workshop.
In any defect arises in the generator, relay or starting motor, have it remedied by a qualified electrician. It
most often turns out more expensive if you try to do this work yourself.

Fault Finding
In the following we have listed some of the most commonly occurring troubles and how they are
remedied. Do not, however, try faults that should be repaired by an authorized workshop. Such
faults require special tools and specially trained personnel.
Never forget the necessity of absolute cleanliness in all work on the engine and, in particular, on
the injection equipment.

Engine Fails To Start - Engine Starts But Tends To Stop - Poor Engine Output - Diesel Knock

Smokey Exhaust Engine Runs Erratically - Engine Fails To Reach Top r.p.m. - Engine Races

Oil Pressure Gauge Shows

Insufficient Pressure

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 Top

Symptoms Possible Cause Remedy

Engine fails to start Fuel tank empty Fill with fuel and bleed
Clogged pre-filter Clean Filter

Air in injection pump Bleed system

Stop control in stop Chang to running position

position

Leakage in a fuel line Check pipe lines

Back
Condensation water frozen Thaw out tank and drain off
in fuel tank, clogging sediment ( water and fuel )
suction pipe

Faulty feed pump Repair by authorized

workshop

Battery discharged Charge or replace battery

Engine starts but tends to Clogged air holes in fuel Clean out holes
stop tank
Clogged Pre-filter Clean Filter. Check gasket
Clogged fine-filter Repair by authorized
workshop

Clogged overflow valve on Disassemble overflow valve

fine-filter and check for proper sealing
Repair by authorized
Back Faulty feed pump
workshop
Water in fuel Drain water and fuel from
sludge pocket of fuel tank

Sticking intake or exhaust Loosen valves

valves

Broken valve spring Replace broken spring

Poor engine output Leaking pressure pipe Check alignment at

connections. Tighten
thoroughly but not hard.
Replace broken pipes.

Faulty injectors Replace with spare, Repair

faulty injector at authorized
workshop
Incorrect Injection pump Check pump setting at
setting authorized workshop.
Clogged air cleaner Clean air cleaner

50
 Faulty injector pump Check pump at authorized
workshop
Back
Unsuitable fuel Drain tank and refill with
correct fuel

Incorrectly adjusted valves Adjust valve-clearance

( warm engine )

Other engine faults Have engine checked by

authorized workshop or
mechanic

Diesel knock Faulty injector Replace faulty injector with

spare.
Repair faulty injector at
authorized workshop
One or more of injectors
Replace with spare
faulty
Mechanical knock Have authorized workshop
or mechanic check engine
Clogged air filter Clean air filter
Smokey exhaust Faulty injection pump Check pump at authorized
workshop

Faulty Injector Replace faulty injector

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Clogged air cleaner Clean air cleaner

Engine runs erratically Air in injection pump Bleed system

Clogged fine filter Check filter at authorized

Workshop

Faulty injection pump Check pump at authorized

workshop

Broken valve spring Replace spring

Engine fails to reach top Faulty controls Check controls

r.p.m.
Clogged air cleaner Clean air filter

Faulty centrifugal Have authorized workshop

or mechanic check governor
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Faulty spring at injector Replace spring
pump

Engine races Faulty injection pump Have authorized workshop

or mechanic check pump

Faulty governor Have authorized workshop

or mechanic check governor

Oil pressure gauge shows Leakage in lubricating Check lubricating system

insufficient pressure system

Leaky reduction valve Removal and clean valve

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 Mechanical fault Have authorized workshop
or mechanic check engine

Faulty gauge replace gauge

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Specification
Engine output is rated in accordance with British Standard B.S. 649/1949

THREE-CYLINDER ENGINE

General

Type Number 1053

Number of cylinders 3
Bore 4 1/8 in. ( 104.77 mm. )
Stroke 5 1/8 in. ( 130 mm. )
Swept volume 68.4 cu.in. ( 1.12 litres )
Compression ratio 16.5 : 1
Compression at 1,500 r.p.m. 570 1b/sq.in. (40 kg/sq.cm.)
200 r.p.m. (starting motor speed) 425 1b/sq.in (30 kg/sq.cm.)
Direction of rotation Anti-clockwise ( seen from Flywheel
end )
Valve arrangement Overhead
Valve clearance ( warm engine )
intake valve 0.016 in. ( 0.40 mm. )
exhaust valve 0.018 in. ( 0.45 mm. )
R.p.m. 1500
Output 35 B.H.P.

Lubricating System

Oil Pressure, engine 40-60 lb/sq.in. ( 3-4 kg/sq.cm. )

Hydraulic reverse-reduction Approx. 100 lb/sq.in (7 kg/sq.cm)
Capacity, engine (incl. lubricant 2.2 Imp.gall ( 10 litres )
cleaner)
Engine (when changing oil) 2.1 Imp.gall. (9.5 litres)
Capacity, reverse-reduction gearbox 0.72 Imp.gall. (3. 3 litres )
Hydraulic Reverse-reduction (ratio Approx 2.2 Imp.gall. (10 1.)
2.5:1)
(ratio 1.5:1) Approx 2.6 Imp.gall. (12 1.)

Fuel System

Injector pump Bosch

Injector Bosch
Injector opening pressure 1,920 + 70 - 0 lb/sq.in ( 135 +5 - 0
kg/sq.cm. )
Injector hole diameter 0.016 in. ( 0.27 mm. )

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 Pump setting 28 deg before T.D.C.
Working pressure, overflow valve 10-18.5 lb/sq.in. ( 0.7-13 kg/sq.cm. )

Cooling System

Cooling water Temperature 160-175 deg F (70-80 deg C)

Capacity, incl heat exchanger 3.3 Imp.gall. (15 litres)

Electrical System

Voltage 12 Volts ( Negative Pole Earthed )

Battery capacity 152 amp-hr
Generator output 130 watts
Starting motor output 4.0 H.P.
Starting motor engagement Sliding armature

Fig 56.
Tighten cylinder head nuts in order shown in figure. Torque to be 125 ft. – lb. (17.3 kpm.).

Four-Cylinder Engine

General

Type number 1054

Number of cylinders 2
Bore 4 1/8 in. (104.77 mm.)
Stroke 5 1/8 in (130 mm. )
Swept volume 273.8 cu.in. ( 4.48 litres )
Compression ratio 16.5 : 1
Compression at 1.500 r.p.m. 570 lb/sq.in (40 kg/sq.cm.)
200. r.p.m. 425 lb/sq.in. (30 kg/sq.cm.)
Direction of rotation Anti-clockwise ( seen from flywheel end )
Valve arrangement Overhead
Valve clearance (warm engine),
intake valve 0.016 in. (0.40 mm.)
exhaust valve 0.018 in. (0.45 mm.)
R.p.m. 1,500

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Output 46 B.H.P.

Lubricating system

Oil Pressure, engine 40-60 lb/sq.in. (3-4 kg /sq.cm.)

Hydraulic reverse-reduction approx. 100 lb/sq.in. (7 kgsq.cm.)
Capacity, (engine incl, lubricant cleaner) 2.75 Imp.gall. (12.5 litres)
Engine (when changing oil) 2.6 Imp.gall. (12 litres)
Mechanical reverse-reduction 0.72 Imp.gall. (3.3 litres)
Hydraulic reverse-reduction (ratio 2.5:1) approx 2.2 Imp.gall. (10 1.)
(ratio 1.5:1) approx 2.6 Imp.gall. (12 1.)

Fuel system

Injector pump CAV

Injector CAV
Injector opening Pressure 1,920+70 -0 lb/sq.in. (135 +5 -0 kg/sq.cm.)
Injector hole diameter 0.0106 in. (0.27 mm.)
Injection sequence 1-3-4-2
Pump setting 24 deg before T.D.C.
Working pressure, overflow valve 14 – 20 lb/sq.in. (0.7 – 1.3 kg/sq.cm.)

Cooling system

Capacity, incl. heat exchanger 4.18 Imp.gall. (19 litres)

Cooling water temperature 160 – 175 deg F ( 70 – 80 deg C )

Electrical system

Voltage 12 volts (negative pole earthed)

Battery Capacity 152 amp.hr

Generator output 130 watts
Starting motor output 4.0 H.P.
Starting motor engagement Sliding armature

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 Fig 57.

Tighten cylinder head nuts in order shown in figure. Torque to be 125 ft. – lb. (17.3 kpm.).

Fuel recommendations

Min Max

Cetane 45
Vescosity : centristokes at 100 deg F ( 37.8 deg C ) 2.0 7.5
Conradson carbon, per cent by weight 0.1
Distillation, vol. to 350 deg C, per cent 85
Flash point, F deg ( C deg ) 150 (65)
Pour point, F deg (C deg) approx. 9deg(5 deg) below
lowest working temperature
of the fuel
Calorific value, B.Th.U./lb. (keal/kg.) 18,000 (10,000)
Water content, per cent by volume 0.1
Ash content, per cent by weight 0.01
Hard asphalt content, per cent by weight 0.01
Sulphur content, per cent 1.0
Alkalise and acids Neutral

Wiring diagram for electrical system

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 Fig 58.
Wiring diagram for three-cylinder engine, 1053

1. Generator 5. Starting button

2. Instruments panel lighting 6. Starting switch
3. Switch 7. Starting motor
4. Charging indicator lamp 8. Battery

Fig 59.

1. Relay 5. Starting button

2. Instruments panel lighting 6. Starting switch
3. Switch 7. Starting motor
4. Charging indicator lamp 8. Battery
5. Starting button

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 Lubricating Chart for three-cylinder engine

Symbols Engine. When changing (incl lubricant

□ Engine oil “For Service DG”. At temperatures filter) 2.1 Imp.gall. (9.5 litres).
Above 32 deg F (0 deg C). SAE 20 or Mechanically operated reverse-reduction.
20 W . At temperatures below 32 deg F (0deg C) When changing 0.72 Imp.gall. (3.3 litres)
SAE 10 or 10 W Hydraulically operated reverse-reduction.
Ratio 1.5:1, approx, 2.6 Imp.gall. (12 litres)
Thin engine oil Ratio 2.5:1, approx. 2.2 Imp.gall. (10 litres)
►Heat resistant ball bearing grease

1.Fresh water pump

Lubricate sparingly. Add new heat-resistant ball bearing grease every time the engine or pump is
reconditioned.

2. Starting motor

There is a lubricating hole at the rear end of the starting motor. To lubricate, remove screw and add a few
drops of thin engine oil. Too much can damage the motor.

3. Engine

Change engine oil. Pump out the old oil when the engine is warm. Drain lubricant filter through plug at
bottom. Check oil level every day. Use “For Service DG”.

4. Air filter

Clean air filter oil container every day and top up with used engine oil to level mark.

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5. Reverse-reduction

Mechanically operated reverse-reduction. Change oil every 600 hours if the engine operates at a max,
speed 1,500 r.p.m. If the engine is set for a higher r.p.m., the oil must be changed every 300 hours. Pump
out the old oil when the engine is warm (immediately following operation). Check oil level daily. Use oil
of the same grade and viscosity as in the engine.
Hydraulically operated reverse-reduction. Change oil every 800 hours if the engine operates at max.
speed of 1.500 r.p.m. If the engine is set for a higher r.p.m., the oil must be changed every 400 hours.
Pump out the old oil when the engine is warm (immediately following operation). Check oil level daily.
Use an acid and resin free oil of high grade and I viscosity of approx. 6-8 Engler degrees at 122 deg F (50
deg C) (SAE 20-30).

6. Power take-off

On engines with power take-off, lubricate the bearing housing of the power take-off shaft through the
front lubricating nipple on the bracket. Lubricate sparingly to avoid unnecessary leakage of grease. The
nipple leads to the sprocket wheel for the hand starter and should be lubricated as required.

7. Injection pump camshaft housing

Check that oil levels in injection pump camshaft housing is between marks on dipsticks. Top up through
hole for dipstick. Use same oil as in engine.

8. Injection pump centrifugal governor

Check that oil in injection pump centrifugal governor is on level with level plug. If necessary, top up with
new engine oil through lubricator on top of governor. Use same oil as in engine.

9. Reverse-reduction release bearing

On engines with mechanically operated reverse-reduction, lubricate release sleeve bearing through nipple
on right-hand side reverse-reduction gearbox. Lubricate sparingly to avoid unnecessary leakage of grease.

10. Support bearing in reverse-reduction and flywheel

On engines with mechanically operated reverse-reduction, lubricate bearing between ahead and astern
shafts in gearbox as well as support bearing in flywheel through nipple at rear end of astern shaft.
Remove hexagon plug on rear of gearbox to gain access to nipple. Lubricate sparingly to avoid
unnecessary leakage of grease and danger of grease penetrating in to friction facing.

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 Lubricating Chart for four-cylinder engine

Symbols Engine. When changing (incl lubricant

□ Engine oil “For Service DG”. At temperatures filter) 2.6 Imp.gall. (12.0 litres).
Above 32 deg F (0 deg C). SAE 20 or Mechanically operated reverse-reduction.
20 W . At temperatures below 32 deg F (0deg C) When changing 0.72 Imp.gall. (3.3 litres)
SAE 10 or 10 W Hydraulically operated reverse-reduction.
Ratio 1.5:1, approx, 2.6 Imp.gall. (12 litres)
Thin engine oil Ratio 2.5:1, approx. 2.2 Imp.gall. (10 litres)
►Heat resistant ball bearing grease

1. Injection pump camshaft housing

Check that oil level in injection pump camshaft housing is between marks on dipstick. Top up through
hole for dipstick. Use same oil as in engine.

2. Injection pump centrifugal governor

Check that oil in injection pump centrifugal governor is on level with plug, If necessary, top up with new
engine oil through hole for inspection plug on side of governor housing, Use same oil as in engine,

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3. Reverse-reduction release bearing

On engines with mechanically operated reverse-reduction lubricate release sleeve bearing through nipple
on right-hand side of reverse reduction gearbox, Lubricate sparingly to avoid unnecessary leakage of
grease.

4. Support bearing in reverse-reduction and flywheel

On engines with mechanically operated reverse-reduction lubricate bearing between ahead and astern
shafts in gearbox as well as support bearing in flywheel through nipple at ear end of astern shaft. Remove
hexagon plug on rear of gearbox to gain access to nipple. Lubricate sparingly to avoid unnecessary
leakage of grease and danger of grease penetrating in to friction facings.

5. Fresh water pump

Lubricate sparingly, Add new heat-resistant ball bearing grease every time the engine or pump is
reconditioned.

6. Engine

Change engine oil every 200 hours. Pump out the old oil when the engine is warm. Drain lubricant filter
through plug at bottom. Check oil level every day. Use “For Service DG”.

7. Starting motor

There is a lubricating hole at the rear end of the starting motor. To lubricate, remove screw and add few
drops of thin engine oil. Too much oil can damage the motor.

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