Unit I

Draping technology
Unit 2

Dart manipulation
Basically, dart manipulation means to move darts around the pattern block or sloper where ever
you want them. This is done for both fit or design preference.

Dart manipulation in flat pattern making allows you to move a dart from its original location to a
new location. Moving a dart position is done by designating a pivot point and shifting the dart
excess (space between dart legs) to a new location. This can be useful in order to get a better or
more attractive fit as well as allowing you to create an entirely new style adding heaps variety to
your handmade wardrobe!

Usually, darts are a feature on woven garments to make them fit the three dimensional form (the
body)…but, they can also be used on knit patterns that are drafted with the intention to be sewn
with a very stable knit fabric.

Darts are wedge shapes in a pattern that are used to control fullness and to shape a garment to
your body. On a bodice, for example, darts serve to shape the fabric around the curves of the
bust. Bust darts are most commonly placed at the side of the bodice, and also at the waist. But,
the possiblities are endless….You can move them to any location on the pattern.
Flange Dart

A flange dart is a partly stitched dart, the remained being laid free like a pleat.
Flange Dart refers to a tuck at the back shoulder and armhole intersection of a shirt or blouse that
is intended to allow more movement in the arms.
Neckline darts
The Neck Dart's legs start around the neck, and the point ends towards the apex of the bust. As a
well-endowed woman, I appreciate a well-placed Neck Dart, since it brings in the neck while
giving my bust the room it needs to breathe, but it can also be used to add a feminine silhouette
to any shape or size.

Armhole dart
The armhole dart is a diagonal dart from the mid armhole down towards the bust point. This is
quite a popular dart, used to shape tops and blouses around the bust that then fall straight down
or into a flared hem.
Pleats
A pleat (older plait) is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it
in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a
narrower circumference.[1]
Pleats are categorized as pressed, that is, ironed or otherwise heat-set into a sharp crease,
or unpressed, falling in soft rounded folds. Pleats sewn into place are called tucks.

PURPOSE OF PLEATS

A pleat is a fold of fabric that is held in place by stitching either at the top, bottom, or both. It
adds volume and interest to otherwise flat, boring fabric. In clothing, it fits the curves of the body
and gives shape and volume where needed. Pleats can be functional or purely decorative. You
will also find pleats on home decor items such as the corners of couches and at the tops of
curtains.

Pleats are often pressed along their entire length but they can also just be pressed at the top. It is
easier to hem the bottom of a garment before you start pleating.

The depth of pleat can be shallow or deep to reflect the amount of volume you wish to have.
Tiny pleats like those formed by a ruffler become gathered in appearance.
Types of Pleats
o Box Pleats
o Inverted Pleats
o Kick Pleats
o Knife Pleats
o Accordion Pleats
o PinTucks

Box pleats

Box pleats have the fabric pressed outwards and are more commonly used in curtains and other
sewing projects rather than clothing. The box pleats can be singular or double-layered. In the
yellow dress the box pleats are so close together they form inverted pleats in-between.Box pleats
are created by pressing equal distances of fabric outwards. The inside corners may be

Inverted pleats

Most skirts and dresses use inverted pleats. The underneath fabric can be the same or sometimes
an insert is used for a pop of color. Usually, when inverted pleats are sewn, they are only secured
at the top and are not pressed all the way down.
Kick Pleats
Kick Pleats are a type of inverted pleats that you will find on tight skirts to enable you to
be able to walk. Any tight skirt below the knee will need some kind of pleat or spit if you
want to take steps that are more than a few inches at a time.

Knife pleats
Knife pleats  can be large or small and all face the same direction. They are commonly
used in skirts. The pleats can be attached to the waistband or start below the hips and are
pressed all the way down.
Tucks
A tuck is a fold or pleat in fabric that is sewn or fastened in place.
Small tucks, especially multiple parallel tucks, may be used to decorate clothing or
household linens. When the tucks are very narrow, they are called pintucks or Pin-tucking.
Tucks are also used to shorten a finished garment, especially a child's garment, so that it may be
lengthened ("let down") as the child grows by removing the stitching holding the tuck in place.

Pin tucks
These are very narrow tucks sewn with a width of 1/8 inch from the folded edge of the fabric .
They are made very close and parallel to each other
Cross tuck

These tucks are as the name suggests crossing each other.

Tucks are first made vertically as usual, then tucks are made horizontally as well ( perpendicular
to the straight tucks) at regular intervals. Make tucks in one direction;press all of them in one
direction
Start making the crosswise (horizontal tucks) ; ensure that the tucks are not distorted or twisted.
You can keep all the folds towards you as you sew so that they are not twisted.

Corded tucks
These are tucks with yarns, cords or embroidery thread added to the edge of the tucks. You will
have to use a narrow zig zag stitch to sew the tucks along with the cord. The cord is kept under
the fold as you sew from the top.

Gathering

Gathering is a sewing technique for shortening the length of a strip of fabric so that the longer
piece can be attached to a shorter piece. It is commonly used in clothing to manage
fullness[clarification needed], as when a full sleeve is attached to the armscye or cuff of a shirt, or when
a skirt is attached to a bodice.
In simple gathering, parallel rows of running stitches are sewn along one edge of the fabric to be
gathered. The stitching threads are then pulled or "drawn up" so that the fabric forms small folds
along the threads.[1] [2]
Gathering seams once involved tedious hand sewing of basting, which was time consuming,
especially with heavy fabric. However, finer gathers could be achieved. Now, a quick and easy
way to make a gather is to use a wide zigzag stitch with a sewing machine. Both the upper and
lower thread are pulled long and placed in front of the sewing machine. Then zigzagging is
carefully sewed over top of the two threads without catching the threads as it is sewn. At the end
the thread is pulled and is then gathered. [3][4]
This photo shows a quick and easy method of machine gathering. This zigzag gathering
technique is the strongest and most sturdy method of gathering.

 Pleating or plaiting is a type of gathering in which the folds are usually larger, made by
hand and pinned in place, rather than drawn up on threads, but very small pleats are often
identical to evenly spaced gathers. Pleating is mainly used to make skirts, but can have other
uses.(See main article Pleat.)[5]
 Shirring or gauging is a decorative technique in which a panel of fabric is gathered with
many rows of stitching across its entire length and then attached to a foundation or lining to
hold the gathers in place. It is very commonly used to make larger pieces of clothing with
some shape to them.[6]

sleeveless
A sleeveless shirt is a shirt manufactured without sleeves, or whose sleeves have been cut off.
Depending on the style, they can be worn as undershirts, worn by athletes in sports such as track
and field and triathlon, or as casual wear.
Neckline variation
The neckline is the top edge of a garment that surrounds the neck, especially from the front view.
Neckline also refers to the overall line between all the layers of clothing and the neck and
shoulders of a person, ignoring the unseen undergarments.[1]
For each garment worn above the waist, the neckline is primarily a style line and may be a
boundary for further shaping of the upper edge of a garment with, for example,
a collar, cowl, darts, or pleats. In that respect it is similar to the waistline and hemline.
Boat neck (one edge, nearly linear)
A high, wide, slightly curved neckline that passes past the collarbones and hangs on both
shoulders; also called a bateau neckline or Sabrina neckline. A variation is the portrait
neckline.

Deep or plunging neck

Halter neckline (linear, side edges converge on neck)

Illusion neckline
A compromise between a low and a high neckline, it combines a low (usually strapless)
neckline with semi-transparent fabric (sheer fabric or lace) along the top part, thus
creating a second, higher neckline.

Polo neck (circular)
These are high close-fitting collars that wrap around the neck itself, and are also
called turtlenecks. They are most common for sweaters (also called jumpers) or jerseys.[4]

Portrait neckline
A portrait neckline is a V-neck with the edges of the V placed out at the points of the
shoulders rather than closer to the neck; it can be combined with a surplice neckline.[5]
Scoop neck (curved, concave up)
These have a curved U-shape, with the arms of the U hanging on the shoulders. The
depth of the U can vary, ranging from demure styles to plunging.

Unit 3
Waistline variation
The waistline is the line of demarcation between the upper and lower portions of a garment,
which notionally corresponds to the natural waist but may vary with fashion from just below the
bust to below the hips. The waistline of a garment is often used to accentuate different features.
The waistline is also important as a boundary at which shaping darts (such as those over the bust
and in the back) can be ended.

Types of waistlines

 Diagonal: An asymmetrical waistline that runs across the body diagonally. Usually the
highest point is below the natural waistline.
 Drop waist: A low, horizontal waistline that usually falls near the level of the upper hips.
Balances the upper and lower bodies, and adds to the visual impression of height by
lengthening the torso. Common in 1920s silhouettes.
 Empire: A high waistline that cuts horizontally across the body, just below the bust. This
waistline gives a long, slender look and excellent fabric drape in the skirt and allows for
short, inconspicuous shaping darts. This waistline was popular in Jane Austen's time;
see Empire silhouette.
 Raised: A horizontal waistline that falls significantly above (>1 in.) the natural waist.
 Natural: A horizontal waistline that falls at the natural waist and tends to make the wearer
seem shorter by visually dividing the figure in half.
 V-shaped: A generally flattering waistline, especially for figures with notable curvature.
Also known as the Basque waistline or the Antebellum waistline.
 U-shaped: A softer, less pronounced version of the Basque waistline.
 Inverted V-shaped: Starts high in the center and drops at the sides and can fall as high as
the bustline (e.g., paired with a low V neckline to give a "bowtie" look), but usually found
near the hips (e.g., extending Bolero curves in the bodice).
 Inverted U-shaped: A softer, less pronounced version of the inverted-V waistline, usually
a gentle downwards curve.
 Natural waistline.
 Antebellum waistline.
 Asymmetrical waistline.
 Basque Waistline.
 Blouson waistline.
 Dropped waistline.
 Cinched waistline.
 Empire waistline
Empire waistline
Empire silhouette, Empire line, Empire waist or just Empire is a style in clothing in which the
dress has a fitted bodice ending just below the bust, giving a high-waisted appearance, and a
gathered skirt which is long and loosely fitting but skims the body rather than being supported by
voluminous petticoats. The outline is especially flattering to pear shapes wishing to disguise the
stomach area or emphasize the bust. The shape of the dress also helps to lengthen the body's
appearance.
cowl skirt 
The cowl skirt adds extra fullness to the area just under the waistband. The fullness is created by
cutting curved lines from three points marked on your skirt pattern. This skirt is a full a-line
shape of 4 flaring panels, each with a cowl on the vertical seam. These cowls can be buttoned up
or undone for a subtle variation in shape and look. The skirt is fastened at the waist with small,
self covered buttons and internal press studs.
wrap dress neckline
A wrap dress is a dress with a front closure formed by wrapping one side across the other, and
knotting the attached ties that wrap around the back at the waist or fastening buttons. This forms
a V-shaped neckline and hugs the wearer's curves.

Unit 5
Draping of fitted yoke
A yoke is a shaped pattern piece that forms part of a garment, usually fitting around the neck and
shoulders or around the hips to provide support for looser parts of the garment, such as a
gathered skirt or the body of a shirt.
Doloman sleeve
A sleeve very wide at the armhole and tight at the wrist often cut in one piece with the bodice.