Lectures Warp Knitting
Lectures Warp Knitting
Fabric Manufacturing-II
Warp knitting portion
Prepared by
Sheikh Nazmul Hoque
Assistant Professor
DTE, AUST
Introduction to warp knitting
Large numbers of yarns in parallel sheet form are supplied from warp
beam. Hence warping is essential in warp knitting. Warp knitting machines
are flat and comparatively more complicated than weft knitting machines.
Examples of warp knitted structures
History of warp knitting
William Lee and Karl Mayer- the history of warp knitting is closely
associated with these two names.
In 1589 Lee applied for a patent for the first mechanical machine for
producing knitted structures and creating the technical basis for developing
warp knitting technology.
In 1947, 358 years later, the farsighted businessman and mechanic Karl
Mayer exhibited his first warp knitting machine in an international trade
fair. That very machine had only two guide bars that marked the beginning
of an era full of innovative leaps in the world of warp knitting.
As early as 1953, Karl Mayer GmbH introduced the company’s own first
Raschel machine paving the way for the “Super-Rapid” era.
Types of warp knitting machines
Based on the features of warp knitting, the machines available
are classified into two categories, namely
i) Tricot
ii) Raschel
Differences between Tricot and Raschel knitting machine
5. Gauge is defined as needles per one inch 5. Gauge is defined as needles per two
inches
Differences between Tricot and Raschel knitting machine (contd.)
14. Tricot fabric possesses more resilience, 14. Raschel fabric possesses less resilience,
higher bursting strength/ tearing strength, and lower bursting strength/ tearing strength, and
better dimensional stability. worse dimensional stability.
15. Numbering of guide bars is done from the 15. Numbering of guide bars is done from the
back to front of the machine. front to back of the machine.
Products of Tricot machines
Sportswear
Swimwear
Intimate apparel
Lingerie
Automotive seats
Tulle
Shoe fabrics
Outerwear Tulle
Mosquito nets
Coating substrates
Mattresses
Bedding
Products of Tricot machines (contd.)
Embroidery grounds
Advertising media
Toy plush
Flags
Cleaning textiles
Vehicle interiors
Velour
Net curtains
Towels
Bath robes
Products of Raschel machines
Shoe fabrics
Marquisette
Coating substrates
Curtains
Embroidered tulle
Patterned tulle
Patterned corsetry
Lace-like spot nets
Intimate apparel
Elastic and rigid lingerie
Products of Raschel machines (contd.)
Swimwear
Functional sportswear
Outerwear
Knitting elements of warp knitting machine
Knitting elements of warp knitting machine (contd.)
Needle
Sinker
Guide
Presser
Trick plate
Latch wire
• 1st three elements are common for all warp knitting machines.
• 1st four elements are movable thus attached to corresponding bars.
Knitting elements of warp knitting machine (contd.)
Needle
Knitting elements of warp knitting machine (contd.)
Needle
All the three types of needles (bearded, latch & compound) are used
in warp knitting as well.
All the needles move up and down together for loop formation, i.e.,
all the loops in a course are made simultaneously.
Needles are set in tricks cut in the needle bed of the machine.
Knitting elements of warp knitting machine (contd.)
Needle
Knitting elements of warp knitting machine (contd.)
Sinker
Presser
Knitting elements of warp knitting machine (contd.)
Presser
In order to close the beard for casting-off of the old loop in
Tricot machine, some closing element (Presser bar) is must.
The swinging motion of the guides takes place either from the
front of the needles to the back or from the back of the needles
to the front. It is in arc and it occurs between adjacent needles.
The shogging of the guide bar may occur either in the front of
the needles or at the back of the needles and accordingly
produces the overlaps or underlaps.
Links of size 1 are 1/22 inch thicker than the links of size 0, and will
position the guide bar 1/22 inch, i.e. one needle space, higher.
Progressively, as the link number increases, guide bar will be
positioned further away from the pattern drum. Thus a link of height 4
will cause the guide bar to take up a position of 4/22 inch (four needle
spaces) further away from the drum than a link of height 0.
Pattern chain link (contd.)
The use of a cut presser for producing held stitch, tuck stitch or
figured fabrics.
The use of interrupted let-off mechanisms to produce raised effects.
Knitting cycle of Raschel machine with latch needle
Knitting cycle of Raschel machine with latch needle
Knitting cycle of Raschel machine with latch needle
In figure 3, The needle reaches the highest position and the wrapped yarn
is slipped down to stem.
In figure 4, As the needle starts to go down, the wrapped yarn enters
through the opening of the beard. Then the presser comes forward and
closes the beard trapping the wrapped yarn inside it.
Knitting cycle of Tricot machine with bearded needle
1-0/2-3//
Numbers refer to the positions of the guide
Hyphens (-) refer to the overlaps
Forward slashes (/) refer to the underlaps
Double forward slash (//) refers to the end of
repeat
Pattern notation
Mechanical description of 1-0/2-3//
Pattern notation
Cursive diagram of 1-0/2-3//
Pattern notation
Lapping diagram / Notation diagram of
1-0/2-3//
Pattern notation
Basic overlap and/or underlap variations
Closed lap
Open lap
Laying-in
Miss-lapping
Basic overlap and/or underlap variations
Closed lap: When an overlap is followed by an underlap
in the opposite direction.
Basic overlap and/or underlap variations
Open lap: : When an overlap is followed by an underlap
in the same direction or when there are only overlaps.
Basic overlap and/or underlap variations
2 course tricot
atlas stitch
3 course tricot atlas
stitch
5 course tricot atlas stitch
Basic stitches in warp knitting
2 needle
Cord atlas stitch overlap stitch
Two full set guide bar tricot structures
BGB FGB
BGB FGB
The wales on the technical face side of the fabric have vertical loops and
prominent diagonal lines are seen from technical back side.
It is characterized by ladder resistant properties, fuller coverage, and
smoother appearance.
It is generally tightly constructed.
The fabric will have a good elasticity in widthwise direction.
Reverse locknit structure
BGB FGB
The fabric is rigid with less elasticity than that of a Locknit structure.
It is also heavier.
Suitable for shirting, as it is more stable.
Sharkskin structure
BGB FGB
The fabric is very rigid and has the maximum shear resistance.
It has similar properties as woven fabrics in terms of stability.
The fabric has better cover and is tight in construction.
It is less lustrous.
Queen’s cord structure
FGB
BGB
BGB FGB
The fabric is rigid and stable.
It has less extensibility than that in Reverse Locknit structure.
These fabrics show considerably low shrinkage in width in finishing.
Suitable for printed goods.
Satin structure
BGB FGB
It has longer floats and these are responsible for higher luster and smoother
feel.
The fabric is elastic and stretchy.
A fleecy finish can be given to this structure by raising the long floats by
brushing.
Satin structure (contd.)
BGB FGB
It has longer floats and these are responsible for higher luster and smoother feel.
The fabric is elastic and stretchy.
A fleecy finish can be given to this structure by raising the long floats by
brushing.
What is rack?
The unit of production in warp knitting is
a “Rack”.
A rack is 480 courses of knitting.
Solution:
Number of needles = Number of yarns to be fed
= 24 X 170 = 4080
Solution:
Length of yarn supplied by FGB = 2040 X 82ʺ = 167280ʺ
Length of yarn supplied by BGB = 2040 X 60ʺ = 122400ʺ
Solution:
8046.67 × 75
So, the mass of 1 rack fabric = = 0.135 lb
840 × 5315
2400 × 60 × 8
Now, the no. of racks produced per shift = = 2400
480
0.135 × 2400
So, the production of the machine per shift =
2.2046
= 146.97 Kg
Features of Crochet machine
The fabrics produced from crochet machine can be used in sportswear, underwear,
fashionwear, and footwear. The products from crochet machine can also be used in
technical textiles, automotive textiles, and medical textiles.
This machine produces a wide range of elastic and non-elastic simple and complex
narrow fabrics. It also produces a wide range of orthopedic and technical articles,
both elastic and rigid.
Products are:
Body belts, gauzes, rigid and elastic bandages, elastic belts, elastic knee caps, loop
fasteners.
Articles for house cleaning.
Furnishing ribbons.
Passementerie, and pom-pom.
Fringes and clothing fabrics, scarves.
Both elastic and non-elastic nets.
Features of Crochet machine