Mobile Glassblowing Studios’

Dragon Furnace General Owner’s Guide

Standard w/ Proof of Air Safety Systems

Baby, Little, & Big Dragon Furnaces

Welcome to our Growing Global Community!

 Mobile Glassblowing Studios, LLC
Dragon Furnace General Owner’s Guide
These instructions are guidelines for use of the Baby, Little, or Big Dragon Glassblowing furnaces (including Double
Dragon configurations). Please read this manual and all supporting documents carefully prior to using your equipment.
Should any questions arise, please contact a representative of Mobile Glassblowing Studios IMMEDIATELY. 844-452-
7246 EXT 3 or 229-352-9988 EXT 3. You can also reach us at mobileglassblowingstudios@gmail.com. We offer
complimentary initial support in setting up and operating your Dragon furnace and related equipment. More
information about ongoing support is on our website at www.mobileglassblowingstudios.com/customersupport.

You can also refer to the FAQ and Resources pages on our website for more information.

Mobile Glassblowing Studios, LLC, for a period of one year from date of shipment, warrants each system or product of its
own manufacture, with the exception of burner tips, crucibles and other refractory materials, to the original Purchaser
to be free from defects in material and workmanship under normal use, service and maintenance. Normal use, service
and maintenance means: (1) Not exceeding the maximum temperatures, volumes, and other parameters specified in the
Company’s instructions and/or Owner’s Manuals. (2) Using only the fuels specified in the Company’s instructions and/or
Owner’s Manuals. (3) Operation and maintenance in compliance with the Company’s instructions and/or Owner’s
Manuals. Products or goods not manufactured by the Company and supplied in piece, or as components to a system
designed or supplied by the company, are not covered by this warranty. Components and parts of the equipment that
are not manufactured by the Company are not covered by the Company’s warranty, and the Company does not warrant
the performance, use and operation of those parts. For complete details, please refer to your Terms, Conditions, and
Limited Warranty document or visit www.mobileglassblowingstudios.com/warranty.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
System Specifications………………………………………………. 3
Unpacking………………………………………………………………… 4
Setup……………………………………………………………………….. 4-7
Pre- Light-Up Info…………………………………………………….. 8-9
Light-Up & Firing Guidelines…………………………………….. 10
Lighting the Furnace………………………………………………… 10 - 11
For the Initial Firing; Flame Adjustment…………………… 11
Regular Use; Things to Note; Transport……………………. 12
Troubleshooting Burner Instability…………………………… 13 - 15
Don’t Blow ‘Um Up or Whack ‘Um with a Hammer….. 15 - 16
Air Pressure Safety System & Wiring Diagrams………… 17
Component Specification Sheets……………………………… 18 - 23
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Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

CALL US WHEN YOU’RE READY TO LIGHT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME: 844-452-7246 EXT 3 or 229-352-9988 EXT 3
For more information, visit our website: www.mobileglassblowingstudios.com – see FAQ and Support
 System Specifications: Baby, Little, & Big Dragons
General Specifications:

• Electrical: Blower is 120V AC, 1A (240V available)

• Fuel Type: Propane or Natural Gas, 14” W.C. / 35 mb pressure maximum
• Fuel Consumption: Propane: +/- 1 gallon or +/- 2 kg per hour; Natural gas: +/- 93 cubic ft or 2.8 cubic meters per
hour
• Btu/H range: 60,000 – 140,000
• Maximum Temp: 2300◦ F (1260◦ C)

Baby Dragon:

• Dimensions (disassembled): 31” D x 34” W x 56” H (79cm D x 86cm W x 143cm H)

• Dimensions (assembled furnace with accessories - not including bench, annealer, marver, etc.): 7.5’ D x 4’ W x
6.5’ H (2.29m D x 1.22m W x 1.98m H)
• Curb Weight (approx.): 550 pounds (249 kg)
• Capacity: 30 pounds (13 kg)

Little Dragon:
• Dimensions (disassembled): 31” D x 34” W x 56” H (79cm D x 86cm W x 143cm H)
• Dimensions (assembled furnace with accessories - not including bench, annealer, marver, etc.): 90” D x 48” W x
78” H (229cm D x 122cm W x 198cm H)
• Curb Weight (approx.): 850 pounds (385 kg)
• Capacity: 60 pounds (27 kg)

Big Dragon:

• Dimensions (disassembled): 31” D x 34” W x 56” H (79cm D x 86cm W x 143cm H)

• Dimensions (assembled furnace with accessories - not including bench, annealer, marver, etc.): 90” D x 48” W x
78” H (229cm D x 122cm W x 198cm H)
• Curb Weight (approx.): 850 pounds (385 kg)
• Capacity: 95 pounds (43 kg)
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Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

CALL US WHEN YOU’RE READY TO LIGHT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME: 844-452-7246 EXT 3 or 229-352-9988 EXT 3
For more information, visit our website: www.mobileglassblowingstudios.com – see FAQ and Support
 UNPACKING
The shipping crate should be disassembled starting with the lid, followed by the top half of each narrow side. Look for
the circled screw heads.

Carefully unpack the burner train. Be particularly careful with the burner train, as the pressure gauge and ceramic
burner tip can be broken if not handled carefully.

Continue disassembling the crate.

Unpack all parts before removing the furnace.

Look around the crate for any loose hardware; sometimes thumbscrews can come loose during shipping.

The handle including pins was shipped assembled. Make sure to have the pins installed any time you move the furnace
by the handle. The handle can be moved to either the front or the back of the furnace. It should be located to the back
or completely removed when firing your furnace.

Once all loose parts are removed from the crate, you can remove the furnace from the pallet. Be aware that the Dragon
furnaces range from 600-900 pounds. Be extremely cautious when moving the furnace. You will need to fashion a small
ramp or use a forklift to remove it from the pallet.

The standard casters were shipped with the brakes “ON” (engaged). The brakes will need to be placed in the “OFF”
(disengaged) position to move the furnace. The heavy duty spring-loaded casters (add-on option) are not equipped with
brakes; you will need to use a chock system once furnace is in position.

SET-UP (before lighting up for the first time)

The initial light-up sequence should take place outdoors or with adequate ventilation, without glass in the crucible. The
furnace has been cooked out at the factory, but will need an additional firing to finish the process. The furnace should
be brought up to glowing orange slowly for the first time, and then allowed to cool before using. There are some
noxious fumes that will be emitted during this initial firing, which is why we recommend doing it outdoors for the first
time.

Before assembling ANY components (other than the handle) to the Dragon, move it into the position where you will be
firing it.

The Furnace reaches internal temperatures over 2000 degrees. Extremely hot air and flame come out of the burner tip
area (on top of the furnace) and from the front opening of the furnace.

The outside skin of the furnace, when in operation, will reach high temperatures. DO NOT TOUCH THE OUTSIDE OF THE
FURNACE WITH BARE HANDS ONCE IT HAS BEEN TURNED ON.

Set the furnace up in an open outside or well-ventilated area.

Set up away from flammable materials.

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Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

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 Below is a diagram of recommended clearance minimums:

If setting up underneath a covering, the covering must be fire-proof.

Allow for plenty of ventilation, as the exhaust fumes from propane combustion can be harmful if allowed to build up.

For the initial firing, there will be some smoke and fumes.

We recommend that the furnace is monitored while in operation, however the burner system is equipped with safety
systems allowing for continued use.

Once the furnace is set up in a safe outdoor location, put the caster brakes to the “ON” position and secure with wheel
chocks. Assembly for the initial firing can begin.

Unwrap burner system and set in place (as pictured below). Burner tip should be centered in the opening at the top of
the furnace. Stop collar will place at the appropriate height. Tighten both bolts with a wrench or 9/16” socket to secure
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the burner train in place.

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Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

CALL US WHEN YOU’RE READY TO LIGHT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME: 844-452-7246 EXT 3 or 229-352-9988 EXT 3
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 Correct burner train placement.

Attach the blower assembly to the burner train by holding

in place and tightening the large union – make sure it is
snug – tighten by hand.

If your furnace comes with the Air Preheat hose, it is recommended that it
is engaged for your initial firing. The Preheat hose creates drag on the air
flow, which allows for a slower heat-up.
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Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

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 Vacuum the inside of the furnace.

Attach the door.

Attach all the accessories, yoke bar & mounts, pipe warmer and pipe hanger as pictured. Tighten thumb screws either by
hand or with an adjustable wrench.
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Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

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 Pre- Light-Up Info
The burner system uses a combination of gas and forced air for combustion. The ratio of the gas to air mixture changes
the dynamic of the flame. This proportion is changed manually by adjusting the green handle on the butterfly valve and
the knob on the needle valve.

The air flow is regulated by adjusting the angle of the green handle (butterfly valve) located directly in line with the
blower. When the handle is in line (parallel) with the pipe, it is fully open, allowing maximum air flow. When the handle
is across (perpendicular to) the pipe, it is fully closed, allowing minimal or no air flow.

The gas valve on the system is a fine

adjustment needle valve. The valve should
be fully in the “off” position when the
furnace is not in use. The needle valve is
used to fine tune the amount of gas being
fed to the burner and is adjusted as
follows: turning the knob counterclockwise
will allow gas to flow through the valve,
turning the knob clockwise will restrict the
flow of gas.

The burner system is set up for low pressure, either propane or natural gas. Do not exceed 14 water column inches of
pressure on the output of the regulator. Introduction of higher pressure will result in permanent damage to the gauge
and other safety components.

The burner has an output range of 50,000-140,000 BTU/hr. We recommend a minimum of ½” inside diameter for the
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gas delivery hose. Smaller diameter may impede the flow, and cause the burner to underperform.
Page

Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

CALL US WHEN YOU’RE READY TO LIGHT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME: 844-452-7246 EXT 3 or 229-352-9988 EXT 3
For more information, visit our website: www.mobileglassblowingstudios.com – see FAQ and Support
 The safety system is composed of two individual safety components wired in series on a circuit that opens the gas
solenoid valve, allowing gas to travel to the burner, mix with forced air from a powered blower and combust inside the
furnaces to heat the interior to over 2100 degrees F. The job of the safety components is to open that electrical circuit if
any of the prescribed parameters of the components are violated, thus shutting off the gas flow to the burner. These
components include:

Manual Switch

Air Low Pressure Switch

Once the furnace is lit, the components work as follows.

The Manual Switch, as well as aiding in the light up procedure, also acts as an emergency switch to open the electrical
circuit to the solenoid valves, shutting down the gas flow to the burner.

If the pressure from the blower drops below a preset value, the Air Low Pressure Switch will open the electrical circuit to
the solenoid valves, shutting down the gas flow to the burner.
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Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

CALL US WHEN YOU’RE READY TO LIGHT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME: 844-452-7246 EXT 3 or 229-352-9988 EXT 3
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 Light-up & Firing Guidelines
When lighting up, it is a good idea to have a spray bottle with a soap & water mixture for checking for gas leaks at the
field connection points. All factory assembled plumbing has been pressure checked prior to shipment. When the system
is pressurized, spray the field connection areas with the mixture: if there is a leak, foam will form around the joint. If a
leak is detected, shut the gas off at the source and release the gas from the lines (called “bleeding the line”). Once the
system has been bled, wrench-tighten the joint that was leaking. Re-test. DO NOT CHECK FOR LEAKS USING A FLAME.

Light up procedure is a specific sequence that must be followed to successfully start the
furnace. If a step is missed or skipped, the burner system will not ignite and you must start
the sequence from the beginning.

When lighting the burner (we recommend using a Mapp gas hand torch – like the style
pictured), the flame will need to cross the burner tip prior to opening the gas needle valve.
Do not open the gas valve without the blower on and flame present. Failure to do so can
cause gas to build up inside the furnace and create a hazardous condition.

Always have the furnace door open when lighting, as this will prevent gas from building up
inside the furnace.

Lighting the Furnace

Be sure to read all previous sections prior to lighting up for the first time.
1. Attach the gas delivery hose to your regulated fuel source (propane or
natural gas) and the burner train in accordance to local regulations.

2. Before opening the gas valve at the fuel source, make sure the needle valve
is in the “off” position. Firing will require adjusting the needle valve to dial
in the proper fuel/air mix.

3. Open the furnace door (as pictured to the

right).

4. Check that the blower power switch is in the

“off” position.

5. Plug in the blower.

6. Turn the blower switch to the “on” position.

7. Press the push button to start the blower.

8. Turn the green handle to the “11 o’clock” position (as pictured to the
right).
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- Continued on next page -

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Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

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 9. Turn on the gas valve at the fuel source. The line will now have gas in it up to the needle valve.
10. Insert the lit flame of the Mapp gas torch so that the flame crosses the burner tip inside the furnace and open
the needle valve, allowing gas to flow into the system.
11. Once the furnace is lit, use the needle valve and air butterfly valve to adjust the mixture to your desired settings.

For the Initial Firing

1. Adjust the mix using the air and gas valves as outlined in the “Flame Adjustment” section below. The flame
should have a solid roar and a flame with a blue core.
2. Leave the door open for now and let it cook for a couple of hours on a low setting.
3. After several hours, close the door halfway, let it cook for a couple more hours.
4. Close the door so that there is only a half moon opening on the right side and continue to cook until the inside is
glowing orange.
5. Shut the furnace off by turning the needle valve to the “off” position
6. Close the valve at the fuel source.
7. Leave the blower running – this helps to keep the burner tip cool, overnight if possible.

Flame Adjustment
The flame is adjusted by changing the ratio of air and gas.

Too much gas results in a bushy (or lazy) flame, whereas too little gas can result in the flame blowing out.

The desired mix will give you a nice solid roar and a flame with a blue core.

If the sound is sputtering, too much air.

If there is a big yellow flame coming out of the door and or top of the furnace, not enough air.

Once you have an even mix, you can adjust it up or down, to control the speed at which the furnace heats up.

When adjusting the flame, do so in small increments.

To adjust the furnace up (bigger flame, hotter – faster), first increase the gas, then the air. If the air is increased first, the
flame could potentially blow out.

To adjust the furnace down, first decrease the amount of air, then the amount of gas.

Do not turn the furnace down to where the air is.

The burner system is manual and will require some getting used to. This takes time and experience. We recommend
documenting your firings, to refer to later.
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 Regular Use & Light-Up
The instructions for regular use are very similar to those for the initial firing as far as furnace placement and set-up
sequence.

Once you have vacuumed the inside of the furnace, place cullet into the crucible, mounding it up to the top. Another
method is to place 15-20 pounds of glass in the bottom & charge 15-20 pounds at a time once the furnace is up to
temperature.

Refer to the “Initial light-up” sequence 1-10 to light the furnace. Once lit, you can close the door such that there is only
a half moon opening on the right side.

Be sure to empty the crucible completely when finished, this can be accomplished by either gathering, or using a casting
ladle to scoop the molten glass out.

Once empty, shut the furnace off by turning the needle valve to the “off” position, close the valve at the fuel source.

Leave the blower running overnight – this helps to keep the burner tip cool.

Things to Note
Quick on and off is abusive to the refractory materials. Though the crown has been cured and cooked carefully, the rapid
heat up and cool down may cause the crown to develop cracks; this is normal. These cracks do not adversely affect the
functionality, or the longevity of the furnace. This is true for the door as well, small cracks may develop, but the door will
stay intact.

The crucible will crack. This is also normal. It is backed up by castable refractory (semi-invested) and will last years after
small cracks develop.

The best practice is to allow for a long, slow heat-up and draining as much glass out of the crucible as possible each time
before shut down.

The paint around the door will burn away – there is no paint that will withstand the temperatures we are dealing with.

Transport
Do not travel with any components loose in a trailer or back of a truck.

Make sure the furnace is tied down with multiple tie down points. It is much better to over secure than under secure.

The burner tip is ceramic and can break. Use care when moving.
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Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

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 The following is extracted from www.joppaglass.com, written by Dudley
Giberson, inventor and manufacturer of the burner tips used on the Dragon
furnaces.

Troubleshooting Burner Instability

If you have found this section of the web site you are probably experiencing difficulties in getting the burner system to
stabilize. Or perhaps you are experiencing burner pop-back. Others are prudently looking ahead to ward off any possible
difficulty, "to head them off at the pass," so to speak. This is the page where we talk about a seemingly puzzling situation
called "pop-back" or "pre-ignition" or sometimes called "burn back". We begin by showing what is a stable situation of
ongoing combustion.

Pictured here is an environment (glory hole or furnace)

which is burning in a stable manner. The flame has a
blue core, the environment is at working temperature,
and the burner head and mixer are cool and could pass
the touch test. Even the face of the head is relatively
cool because of all the combustibles (cool air and gas)
which are being pushed through it. The flame is
burning quietly, but steadily. This is a happy burner
system.

In contrast, this next image shows a burner system with

burner pop-back. This is a condition where the mixture
of gas and air are burning in the mixer and head area of
the burner system. If this condition goes on for a while,
the head and pipe work may become cherry red. When
the system is shut off and naturally left to cool for a few
minutes, it most often can be re-lit and everything is
fine. But sometimes there is damage to the pipe and
head. An inspection of the head will reveal if there are
any serious cracks, and if so the head should be repaired
or replaced. If this furnace had a safety system it would
have shut down immediately when the flame began to
rumble (or flutter). Such a safety system could be
hooked to an alarm to notify you of any burner or furnace abnormality.

Here is a list of conditions that help identify this situation.

• First, you should always be able to touch the pipe work behind the burner head. Use the old spit on the finger
technique. If it really sizzles, it most likely indicates the fire is burning in the head. If this condition is allowed to
continue unchecked the entire pipe work can become cherry red as shown in the above image. Not a good
situation. To rectify the problem, turn the gas off and wait for head to cool for a few minutes. Then attempt a
re-light. If the head is cracked, you will most likely need to replace the head with a repaired or new one.
• The paint should not be burnt off the back of the head. If it is, this indicates there is or was a burn-back
13

condition.
• The flame should burn evenly (not "rumbly").
Page

• There should be no popping noise.

Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018
CALL US WHEN YOU’RE READY TO LIGHT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME: 844-452-7246 EXT 3 or 229-352-9988 EXT 3
For more information, visit our website: www.mobileglassblowingstudios.com – see FAQ and Support
 • Sometimes, a novice using a Giberson Head will not recognize when it is burning incorrectly, usually at a first
start-up. Check using the "spit on finger technique."
• Another indication of "burn-back" is the flame will not go out of reduction, coupled with a "rumbly" burn. Call
the factory 229-352-9988 and ask for help.

There are two main causes for this

condition:
1. The gas and air mix is moving too slowly
through the system so that the speed at which
this mixture burns is greater than the speed of
the mix being pushed through the system. It is
like in the movies where the bad guy is going
to blow up the bank using his trusty drum of
black powder. Not being very organized that
morning he's forgotten his roll of fuse material
so he pours out a line of powder for some feet,
lights it and runs. For the sake of argument and
demonstration this highly explosive material
does in fact burn with a calculable rate of
speed. Gas and air, when properly mixed, have
that same property. The small holes in the
burner face serve this interesting purpose,
they provide the "speedifier effect" where the
unburned mixture speeds up through the hole
structure and keeps the burning gas/air mix on
the far side. What this means is if you turn
down your burner system to a point low
enough, you will reach this pop-back
point. This exists in every burner system.
2. There is a second reason for burner pop-back:
A given mix of gas and air has a calculable
temperature at which it ignites. If any part of
the inside of the burner head reaches that ignition temperature, "pop, bang, rumble!" It is totally predictable.
You could stake your life on it. It is a very simple proposition: the gas/air mix comes through the burner head
keeping it cool. When this system of cooling the head gets disrupted, such as by turning the system down off a
high temperature condition too quickly, the problem can occasionally show up.

Here is a probable scenario:

One day a glassblower makes a new melt and really gives it the business, gets the furnace really hot, and on the down
side he is in a hurry and wants to plane it off because he has a hot date in a couple of hours. He turns it down to a
setting which normally works when the furnace is a bit cooler and off he goes to visit his 'sweety.'
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When he comes into his shop the next morning a sense of panic overcomes him. The furnace is roaring and the pipe
work near the burner is red hot. The head is perhaps broken. (He did not have a safety system.) And he is indignant!
Page

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 "That god dammed head! I knew it wasn't any good before I put it on! I saw some air bubbles in it. I think it was
defective."

That's when I get a call from Mr. X. It takes me awhile to get Mr. X. back to the real problem and that is how to
successfully turn down a burner after a melt and go on a date at the same time. I don't know about the date thing, but
we can get the furnace turned down ok.

The idea of the red line (the 1000°F

heat line).

Don't Blow 'Um Up

Or Whack 'Um with A Hammer Page
“There is another area we have yet to cover as a real trouble spot to the longevity of the burner heads. This is in the area
of physical abuse. The most classic is the case of binding the head in the burner port...crack! The casting is 4" in diameter
and the burner port is supposed to be 4.5" in diameter. This gives a little slack and allows for some slight movement, but
if they are both 4," the slightest movement breaks the head.

Not surprisingly, many people lose their burner heads during a big studio move where the plumber guy applies the
hammer to the pipe work to loosen it up a tad, and "whack!" If you pound on the pipe work five feet away the shock still
follows the metal all the way to the burner head and plop, on the floor it goes in a couple of big pieces‒ don't hammer
the pipe work. Constant, hard vibration will eventually shake even a good burner head to pieces.

You see, the physical strength of the burner head is not that great. It is probably twice as strong as a soft brick. I did a lot
of experimenting trying to strengthen the physical mass, that's easy. I could make it hard as a rock. But the harder I got it
the less well it withstood the thermal changes.

Face it, the major threat to a burner head is the thermal stress it must go through each day in its cycle, not the plumber
15

with the hammer. So I made a mix which would take some physical abuse but which was stronger under thermal abuse. I
have experimented with a lot of different things but have returned to the original formula for every burner I have ever
Page

sold.
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 While we are on the subject of physical abuse, occasionally I get a customer who will literally blow up a burner, like an
old-fashioned pipe-bomb. Well, it's more like a gas cannon. In my youth we'd celebrate appropriate holidays by shooting
off an acetylene and oxygen filled drive shaft housing plugged with a Life magazine. Boom! Instant confetti. At a hundred
seventy-five dollars a pop it loses its humor. So, what's happening to cause the explosion?

When a gas/air mix burns it expands rapidly, as much as seven times in volume. If the expansion happens in a closed
space, like in the mixer section behind the burner head, we get an explosion. Earlier, I talked about how any burner
system will have a pop-back point on the low end. This is true. If you turn down any system low enough it will pop back...
boom! It usually is a small boom but what if there's a lot of pipe work of large sizes behind the head? Then we have a
large explosion. It is a matter of physics.

Any excess piping and it is almost guaranteed that at some point you will blow the head right up. It may be the first time
you light it.

Well that's about it for the exciting stuff. No more explosions. But there is one more caution in the physical abuse
section. It is very important to mount the burner system by the iron pipe work behind the head. Use a regular clamp or a
"U" bolt and attach it to the frame of the furnace. This provides support for all the weight of the burner/head/mixer,
etc… It is especially important not to rest the totality of this weight onto the head and expect it to hold up unscathed. It
might hold up for a short while but to be so cavalier is asking for trouble.”

To summarize, if you set-up and operate your system by the guidelines in this manual, and use a turndown schedule that
keeps the heat out of the head, we eliminate nearly all the bumps in the road.
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 The illustration below from Charlie Correll outlines the burner system components and their relationships to each other
in the system.

Wiring Diagram
To the right is the wiring diagram for the
burner system for your reference. It is
recommended that should any problems
arise, do not attempt to repair or modify
the wiring. Contact Mobile Glassblowing
Studios at 229-352-9988 ext 3 for
troubleshooting advice first before hiring a
certified electrician for repairs.
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 Component Spec Sheets:
The following are the manufacturer’s specification sheets for the solenoid valve, air switch and blower:
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Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

CALL US WHEN YOU’RE READY TO LIGHT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME: 844-452-7246 EXT 3 or 229-352-9988 EXT 3
For more information, visit our website: www.mobileglassblowingstudios.com – see FAQ and Support
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Page

Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

CALL US WHEN YOU’RE READY TO LIGHT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME: 844-452-7246 EXT 3 or 229-352-9988 EXT 3
For more information, visit our website: www.mobileglassblowingstudios.com – see FAQ and Support
20
Page

Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

CALL US WHEN YOU’RE READY TO LIGHT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME: 844-452-7246 EXT 3 or 229-352-9988 EXT 3
For more information, visit our website: www.mobileglassblowingstudios.com – see FAQ and Support
21
Page

Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

CALL US WHEN YOU’RE READY TO LIGHT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME: 844-452-7246 EXT 3 or 229-352-9988 EXT 3
For more information, visit our website: www.mobileglassblowingstudios.com – see FAQ and Support
22
Page

Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

CALL US WHEN YOU’RE READY TO LIGHT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME: 844-452-7246 EXT 3 or 229-352-9988 EXT 3
For more information, visit our website: www.mobileglassblowingstudios.com – see FAQ and Support
23
Page

Mobile Glassblowing Studios Dragon Furnace General Guide: Oct 2018

CALL US WHEN YOU’RE READY TO LIGHT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME: 844-452-7246 EXT 3 or 229-352-9988 EXT 3
For more information, visit our website: www.mobileglassblowingstudios.com – see FAQ and Support