Mosel Fine Wines No51 May 2020
Mosel Fine Wines No51 May 2020
Mosel Fine Wines No51 May 2020
▪ Reports on the current vintage (including the annual Auctions held in Trier).
▪ Updates on how the wines mature.
▪ Perspectives on specific topics such as vineyards, Estates, vintages, etc.
All wines reviewed in the Mosel Fine Wines issues are exclusively tasted by us (at the Estates, trade shows, or private tastings) under our sole
responsibility.
Estates Covered in this Issue List of Estates and Quick Links ……………………………………..….……..…… 5
Contact Information
For questions or comments, please contact us at info@moselfinewines.com.
1. NOMENCLATURE: For simplicity, consistency, and clarity, we rely on the following to define a wine:
▪ We stick to the traditional “Village + Vineyard” denomination even for wines from VDP classified vineyards (where only the vineyard name
appears on the consumer side of the label).
▪ We provide the grape variety, except for the few cases of a blend, in which case the blend details will be given in the tasting note.
▪ No Prädikat in the name means that the wine was bottled as QbA.
▪ GG stands for “Grosses Gewächs” and EG for “Erstes Gewächs.”
You can find more information on how to decipher German wine labels in the article “Deciphering the modern German wine label” here.
2. AP NUMBER: The AP Number is the unique number associated with any lot of German quality wine. We systematically provide this information
(actually the last 4 or 5 “meaningful” digits of the AP) as wine growers sometimes differentiate between wines only through this AP Number. You
can learn more about AP numbers here. “N.A.” means that the AP number was not yet available at the moment of publication and “(No AP)” means
that the wine was not given an AP (because it is not bottled as QmP).
3. AUCTION: We add the mention “Auction” for wines sold via the annual Auctions held in September as they are different from the ones sold via
traditional channels. You can learn more about the annual Trier wine Auctions and these particularly fine expressions of Riesling here.
4. DRINKING WINDOW: Riesling has a long development cycle and can be enjoyable for 20 years and more. Like other great wines from this world,
Mosel and German Riesling usually go through a muted phase before reaching maturity. At the end of each tasting note, we therefore provide a
drinking window, which refers to our estimation of the maturity period for the wine. This maturity period is based on the following principles:
▪ It consists of the “fruit” and “terroir” phases as defined in our review of Maturing Mosel.
▪ It does not explicitly mention the additional drinking window for fruity-styled wines which typically lasts for 1-3 years after the vintage.
You can find more about the different maturing phases of Mosel Riesling here.
5. SCORE: The use of scores to evaluate wines has advantages (clearly communicating a perspective) and disadvantages (over-simplifying such a
complex matter as wine). We believe the advantages prevail as long as a rating is put into the perspective of a tasting note. Here our principles:
▪ Scale: We rely on a 100-point scale with the following overall principles:
Classic: A true classic that sets the standards for its style and terroir. Only few wines make it into this “super-class” of Riesling and no
95-100
stone should be left unturned to find them.
Outstanding: Stands out as distinctive example of its style and terroir. It will offer immense pleasure and should be actively looked
90-94
out for.
Good to very good: Is a good to very good wine with special qualities. It will be delicious and is worthy of any cellar, especially if the
85-89
price is right.
Solid to good: Is technically correctly made and will be enjoyable in its simple solid way. Price is the key driver for the decision to
80-84
buy.
Not worth it: Does not show any distinction and may even have some flaws. Given the currently still quite reasonable price level for
Below 80
Mosel Riesling, there is no reason to bother.
▪ Assessment: We evaluate complexity, balance, and elegance (“more is not better”) as well as respect of terroir and style (a great Kabinett will
get a higher score than an average Spätlese). If the actual style does not match that on the label (say a Spätlese bottled as Kabinett), we will
review the wine according to its intrinsic style (in the example as “the Spätlese it is”) and add a remark about its true style in the tasting note.
▪ Timing: Our ratings for young wines refer to the expected quality of the wine at maturity (i.e. during its drinking window) and not at moment of
tasting.
▪ Firm Scores vs. Score Ranges: Bottled wines get firm scores. Score ranges indicate tasting notes based on cask samples.
The principles above cover the basics. We remain at your disposal under info@moselfinewines.com should there be a question.
Background Information
Each country has its own specificities regarding naming, labelling, style, etc. This is no different in Germany. We regularly publish articles on topics
which may help readers get a first grasp at or deepen their knowledge in a particular aspect of German wine or winemaking. As these articles have
appeared in different Issues and / or on our website since 2008, we insert here a comprehensive list of background articles published to date
with the topic and where it can be found:
Winemaking 19th Century Winemaking | Mosel Wine Before the Modern Age Issue No 49 (Jan 2020) -
Vineyards Uhlen gUs / PDOs | A New Era for German Wine? Issue No 44 (Jan 2019) Click Here
Vineyards Ruwer on the Up | Large Solely-Owned Vineyard in New Hands Issue No 42 (Aug 2018) Click Here
Vineyards Vineyard Classification | The Classification Before the Classification Issue No 39 (Jan 2018) -
Estates Keller takes over Prime Mosel Vineyard Issue No 39 (Jan 2018) Click Here
Wines Deciphering the Modern German Wine Label Issue No 34 (Apr 2017) Click Here
Estates Bert Selbach | 40 Years at the Service of Riesling Issue No 33 (Jan 2017) -
Winemaking Karl Erbes | Precursor of the Flying Winemaker Issue No 33 (Jan 2017) -
Estates The Merkelbach Brothers | Living Legends celebrating their 65th vintage Issue No 33 (Jan 2017) -
Estates State Estates in Trier, Ockfen and Serrig | Historic Estates Given a New Life Issue No 33 (Jan 2017) Avelsbach Estate
Serrig Estate
Region Grosser Ring | The Mosel Branch of the VDP - Click Here
Wines Let’s Talk About Sekt – The Sparkling Joy of Riesling Issue No 30 (Mar 2016) Click Here
Wines Winemaking in the Age of Climate Change Issue No 28 (Jun 2015) Click Here
Vineyards Geisberg - The Revival of a Forgotten Saar Glory Issue No 28 (Jun 2015) Click Here
Wines Maturing Mosel and drinking windows Issue No 27 (Mar 2015) Click Here
Wines Understanding German classification and associated labelling (Grosses Issue No 26 (Oct 2014) -
Gewächs, Erstes Gewächs, Grosse Lage, Erste Lage, etc.)
Foreword
Covid-19 has seen Governments take precautionary measures to reduce the spreading of this virus, which
included shutting down large parts of the economy. Not only did these measures hit the wine industry and
restaurant trade hard, they also left the wine world in somewhat of a limbo as the usual “directional” events such
as Prowein, the Mainzer Weinbörse, etc. could not take place and visiting the region is not possible given the
travel restrictions.
As a result, the wine trade (importers, distributors, sommeliers, journalists, etc.) and wine lovers alike could simply
not get to know the 2019 vintage as they usual would at this stage. We have stopped counting the number of
readers (professionals as well as consuming wine lovers) who have contacted us in recent weeks to find out what
to buy as the first offers of the 2019 vintage and the late-releases from 2018 hit the market.
This is a truly a shame because 2019 looks to be one of the finest vintages ever in the Mosel and, at the same
time, quantities are low and some of the finest wines are simply rare. Also, growers are in dire need of support in
order for them to be able to continue their work (2020 is already in full swing!) more serenely.
We therefore decided to stretch our resources and not wait for the end of June (the usual timeline for the first
report on the latest vintage) but release now a
special and exceptional “Preview Issue” with a first set of 100 noteworthy wines
based on a selection of wines from growers who had sent us samples (other wines from these Estates and wines
from other Estates will then be reviewed in Part I of the Vintage Report due to be published in June).
We hope that this Issue will give readers a feel for the vintage, provide some orientation on what to buy or reserve
with your favorite growers or importers, and thereby hopefully contribute, in a small way, to restoring some normal
flow of trade. However, this special report makes no claim of completion. On the contrary, there are many more
exciting wines that we are looking forward tasting from these and other Estates!
This special Issue was made possible thanks to growers sending us samples (we too cannot visit the region), a lot
of special precautions regarding handling bottles to make them safe for tasting, and a few extra late-night
sessions which we could free up, courtesy of the lockdown (remember, we cover wine to professional standards
but we both have a day job!).
So, get out there, indulge in some absolutely stunning wines and support your favorite growers, while we are
working full blast on our usual comprehensive coverage of the 2019 vintage with Part I to be released in June.
Direct Direct
Estate Estate
Link Link
The harvest proved anything but easy … but the growers did not seem to mind.
Despite a comparatively late flowering, the summer and rain at the beginning of September led to sugar density levels to reach already 80-85°
Oechsle by mid-September. Some growers started their harvest very early in 2019, sometimes as early as mid-September. Those included the
growers who had also started early in 2018, but also other growers who “learned the lesson” (as one grower put it to us). The bulk of growers
started picking around the end of the month, which is still remarkably early, given that flowering was comparatively late. The harvest was marked by
quite some rain, which should have added to the high level of stress as rot (noble or not) was spreading. Growers we talk to during the harvest are
often unhappy because they are perfectionists and see all the details that are not ideal (rain at the wrong moment, a harvest worker getting sick,
etc.). But that was not the case in 2019, as they were brushing the setbacks from the weather aside. So far, there are no signs of any Eiswein being
possible ... not that many growers took the risk back in October and gamble some of their meagre yields on an elusive Eiswein.
And the reason why they did not mind has now become crystal clear: At the top, 2019 is an epic vintage, possibly one of the finest in decades!
We soon got wind of the reason why growers did not seem to mind the bad weather during harvest: “This could be quite a vintage” was a regular
comment prudently made during harvest. So we were eager to put our nose into some casks at some of the finest growers and we can confirm the
hunch of the growers: The wines have incredible precision, play, zest, and structure. At their best, they remind us of 2001, but subtler and deeper.
Some Riesling are among the finest young wines we have ever tasted. However, 2019 is also a ripe vintage, and not all wines have the cut. But the
potential is simply huge. The vintage has only one serious drawback: Its low yields. There will not be much wine to play with, courtesy of the frost,
the scorching hot summer, and the need to discard lesser rain-affected grapes during harvest. The battle for the finest wines is likely to be as fierce
as ever.
Rhine Koblenz
Bollig Wintrich
Jonas Dostert Nittel
Karl Erbes Ürzig
Falkenstein Niedermennig N
Fio Piesport
Geltz-Zilliken Saarburg Mosel
Fritz Haag Brauneberg
Heinrichshof Zeltingen
Dr. Hermann Erden
Gebrüder Knebel Winningen Cochem
von Kesselstatt Morscheid
Lothar Kettern Piesport
Jan Matthias Klein Kröv Traben-Trarbach
Erden
Klosterhof Brauneberg Ürzig
Graach
NB: Our structured 2019 Vintage Reports will be released, as usual, as of June 2020
Bollig
Weingut Bollig
(Wintrich – Middle Mosel)
Lukas Bollig is the offspring of an old winemaking family in Wintrich. Although his father was not active in winemaking, he decided for a career as a
winegrower and took over the family Estate (previously run by his uncle) in 2015. The Estate owns vineyards in Wintrich, including 0.5 ha in the
prime Ohligsberg. Winemaking is done with ambient yeasts, mostly in stainless steel. The style is one of intensity, precision, and finesse not unlike
the one pursued by Weingut Carl Loewen.
The 2019er Ohligsberg Kabinett, as it is referred to on the main part of the label, was made from fruit picked at 84° Oechsle in the Brauert part of
the vineyard, and was fermented down to barely fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (40 g/l). It offers a beautiful nose made of vineyard peach,
orange peel, pear, laurel, whipped cream, and beautiful smoky elements. The wine unleashes some great flavors of pear, tangerine, and whipped
cream wrapped into some herbs and fine spices on the palate. It leaves one with a vibrant feel of apricot, tangerine, grapefruit, and chalky minerals
in the beautifully racy finish. The sweetness is already nicely integrated into the flavors in the aftertaste. This delicately exotic yet refreshing
expression of fruity-styled Mosel Riesling is a huge success! 2026-2039
The 2019er Riesling Feinherb Urgestein, as it is referred to on the main part of the label, is a spontaneously tank-fermented off-dry wine (with 21 g/l
of residual sugar) made from fruit picked on 40-50-year-old vines in both a steep west-facing part (Lucht) and a south-west-facing part (Pinnert) of
the Wintricher Grosser Herrgott. It opens up to gorgeous scents of white peach, fine spices, herbs, and smoky slate. The wine is superbly balanced
on the palate, where vibrant and precise flavors of white peach mingle with minerals, a hint of lemon zest and gorgeous herbal elements. This off-
dry wine is a huge success! The quality of the balance in the after-taste makes this already very enjoyable now. But make no mistake: This
smashing off-dry wine is made to last! Now-2034
The 2019er Riesling Trocken Urgestein, as it is referred to on the main part of the label, comes from 50-year-old vines in a steep west-facing part
(Lucht) of the Wintricher Grosser Herrgott, and was fermented spontaneously and aged in a mix of stainless-steel and fully aged (10+ years)
barrique. It offers a gorgeous even if still rather reduced nose made of pear, vineyard peach, earthy spices, herbs, and smoky elements. The wine
is full of presence yet remarkably balanced and subtle on the palate, and leaves a superbly complex feel of herbs, juicy orchard fruits, and minerals
in the long and persistent finish. This dry wine is a huge success! 2021-2031
Jonas Dostert
Jonas Dostert is the offspring of an old traditional winemaking family in Nittel, who got exposed to organic and minimal-intervention wines during his
winemaking studies in Geisenheim. After finishing them, he worked for an organic Estate in Luxembourg and took some parcels from his family
Estate in direct management, which he converted to organic vineyard management (which is certified along general EU guidelines). He produces
some low-intervention, unfiltered wines (with minimal sulfuring at bottling) from Elbling, Spätburgunder, and Chardonnay grown on limestone soil.
2018 is his debut vintage.
The 2018er Pure Limestone with lot number 04-19 is a blend of organically-farmed Chardonnay (70%) and Elbling (30%) grown on limestone-
infused soils in the Nitteler Rochusfels. It was fermented and aged without intervention in a 7-year-old Burgundy piece (228 liter) for 12 months
before being bottled unfiltered and with a little sulfur added (total sulfites do not exceed 30 mg/l). This bright green-yellow colored wine offers a
superb nose of pear, citrusy elements, red and black berried fruits, elderflower, floral notes, and a hint of volatile acidity. The wine is gorgeously
animating and fresh on the slender and delicately zesty palate, and leaves a delicately smooth and slightly creamy feel in the racy and playful finish.
The after-taste is animating and, despite the lightness of the body, quite persistent and remarkably multi-dimensional. This combination of raciness
and delicate smoothness is a huge success! Now-2023 (Reprint from Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 50 – January 2020)
The 2018er Spätburgunder comes from the south-west facing, limestone-based Nitteler Leiterchen in the Obermosel. The wine was made without
intervention (except for a small chaptalization) from whole-bunch fermented grapes and aged in 4-year-old barrique for 10 months before being
bottled unfiltered and with only a little sulfur added (total sulfur does not exceed 30 mg/l). This bright red colored wine offers an absolutely stunning
nose made of cranberry, cherry, and strawberry, all enhanced by subtle elements coming from the oak aging. The wine proves precise, lively, fruit-
driven, and spicy on the gorgeously silky palate, and leaves a superb feel of fresh red berried fruits and spices in the complex and delicately multi-
layered finish. In his first vintage, this young talented grower immediately dished up one of the finest red wines which we have ever tasted from the
Mosel. What an incredible success! Now-2028
Karl Erbes
The 2019er Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese was harvested at 115° Oechsle, and was fermented down to noble-sweet levels of residual sugar (126
g/l). It offers a classy and rather reserved nose made of candied grapefruit, tangerine, candy floss, smoke, lead pencil, earthy spices, aniseed herbs,
and white mint. The wine develops rich honeyed and exotic flavors of fruits packed into some zesty and pure acidity on the still quite sweet palate. It
leaves one with a sensation of intensity and precision in the finish. This noble-sweet wine cut along the lines of a “juicy light BA” only needs a
decade of patience to integrate its elements (including the sweetness) and deliver upon its superb potential. 2034-2049
The 2019er Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese was harvested at 108° Oechsle, and was fermented down to noble-sweet levels of residual sugar
(106 g/l). It offers a delicately ripe and refined nose of almond cream, mirabelle, coconut, honeyed peach, apricot, pineapple juice, pear, plum, and
a refreshing touch of passion fruit. The wine proves full-on sweet as it coats the palate with juicy, honeyed, and exotic fruits at first, but then
develops an energetic feel of rich and juicy flavors as some clean zesty acidity emerges in the finish. This gorgeous noble-sweet wine only needs a
bit of patience for it to develop its nuances and integrated its primary sense of sweetness. 2034-2049
The 2019er Ürziger in der Kranklei Riesling Spätlese was harvested at a whopping 100° Oechsle, and was fermented down to fully sweet levels of
residual sugar (90 g/l). It offers a hugely aromatic and exotic nose made of apricot, pear puree, honeyed peach, tangerine, pineapple, mango, and
minty spices come out of the glass. The wine proves rich, sweet, structured, and intense on the palate, and leaves a powerful sense of sweet-
honey-sour tension in the finish (the label indicates 9% of alcohol). This sense of power drives also the luscious after-taste of this beautiful sweet
Auslese-styled wine. 2024-2034
The 2019er Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett was harvested at 86° Oechsle, and was fermented down to fully fruity-styled levels of residual
sugar (63 g/l). It offers a quite direct and aromatic nose underpinned by notes of pear, apricot, smoke, greengage, grapefruit, and earthy spices.
The wine develops the ample and sweet side of a Spätlese on the palate, where ripe yellow fruits and a touch of honey make for a comfortable and
smooth feel. It leaves a nice sense of energy and ripe zesty acidity in the finish, which adds a playful side and quite some joie de vivre. This wine
may break the mold of a Kabinett but it proves a nice luscious fruity-styled Riesling. 2027-2039
Falkenstein
Hofgut Falkenstein
(Niedermennig – Saar)
The 2019er Niedermennig Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese Feinherb Meyer Nepal (the reference to this internal cask name is provided in small print
on the label) comes from the upper part of the vineyard, and was fermented down to off-dry levels of residual sugar (27 g/l). This bright-white-
colored wine offers a stunning nose of white peach, freshly cut garden apple, wet stone, delicate herbal elements, and a hint of whipped cream. The
wine is simply stunningly intense and engaging on the palate, where the very subtle peachy elements are lifted up by some staggering ripe zesty
fruits and minerals, as well as a subtle touch of lemony whipped cream. The finish is vibrating, smooth, racy, and, above all, incredibly persistent.
This off-dry Riesling completely defies all the elements. In fact, it comes pretty close to off-dry Riesling perfection. What an incredible success!!!
While enjoyable now, this will benefit from a few more years of bottle aging and allow the touch of sweetness to smoothen away. But we cannot
blame anyone drinking this immediately. It is truly irresistible. 2024-2039
The 2019er Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Spätlese AP 14 (known internally as “Fuder Ternes”) comes from fruit harvested at a moderate 88°
Oechsle on old vines in the prime Gross Schock sector of the vineyard, and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (56 g/l). It
offers a magnificent nose made of white peach, lemon zest, pear, wet stone, white flowers, and fine spices. The wine is delicately creamy on the
zesty and refreshing palate, and leaves a stunningly playful feel of fine herbs and spices in the finish. The after-taste is just amazingly light and
playful. This is all about juicy vibrancy! And guess what, it this holds all its promises, it could even warrant a higher rating at maturity. The potential
is there: What a huge success! 2029-2059
The 2019er Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett Athuro (the reference to this internal cask name is provided in small print on the label) was harvested
at 83° Oechsle on 15 year-old vines in the prime Gross Schock sector of the vineyard which was classified in the highest category on the old
taxation maps, and was fermented down to barely fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (approx. 40 g/l). It offers a stunning nose made of citrusy
fruits, red berried fruits, herbs, spices, and wet stone. The wine proves superbly precise on the racy and focused palate as more orchard fruits
mingle with minerals and some firm but ripe acidity. The finish is all about lemony raciness, subtle minerality and precision. This stunning Kabinett
may prove already quite irresistible now, but it will only truly come into its own in a few years, after the flavors will have blossomed and blended
together, and the sharpness receded: What a superb success! 2026-2049
The 2019er Niedermenniger Sonnenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken Munny (the reference to this internal cask name is provided in small print on
the label) was harvested on 60-70-year-old vines in the Lieu-Dits Unter den Röderchen and Beim Hasenbirnbaum. This bright-white colored wine
offers a rather discreet but subtly fragrant nose made of white peach, chalky minerals, citrusy fruits, and floral elements. It develops a great
interplay of lemony acidity with minerals and juicy fresh orchard fruits on the beautifully light-footed palate and leaves a feather-light feel of fruits,
minerals, and floral elements in the playful, elegant, and animating finish. Lemon, flowers, and chalky minerals define the airy aftertaste. If lightness
is your thing, this dry Kabinett will simply prove irresistible! The wine is already very enjoyable now on its primary fruit, but it will offer its full
lightness glory in a few years. 2022-2031
Fio
Fio Wines
(Piesport – Middle Mosel)
The 2018er Riesling Cabi Sehr Nett (a play on words on “Kabinett” and “Sehr Nett”, which means “very pleasing” in German) was made from fruit
harvested at a low 80° Oechsle in the higher parts of the Piesporter main hill, and was fermented down to barely fruity-styled levels of residual
sugar (39 g/l). This wine proves still hugely marked by residual scents from its spontaneous fermentation. White peach, white flowers, and a hint of
minerals make for an absolutely stunning feel of precision and depth on the tart and engaging palate. The finish is gorgeously precise and
persistent, and the after-taste is all about zest, delicacy, and intensity. This true Kabinett is easily one of the finest of the vintage and there is even
upside potential here. What a HUGE success! 2023-2038
The 2015er Piesporter Fio, as it is referred on the central part of the label, was made fruit harvested in the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, was fermented
and aged without any additive or other intervention in large casks for 24 months before being bottled unfiltered and with minimal sulfur added (30
mg/l). It will be released commercially at the end of 2020. This bright yellow-white colored wine offers a superb nose made of ripe herbs, fine spices,
candied grapefruit, and chalky minerals, all wrapped into some slate-infused reduction. The wine proves packed with engagingly fresh and complex
flavors on the beautifully light, tart and remarkably multi-layered palate (the wine only has 11.5% alcohol). The finish proves gorgeously long and
beautifully refined. A touch of hard tartness still needs to integrate in the after-taste and does already recede after a day of airing. The potential here
is immense, even if it will only fully blossom in a few years. But; lovers of light-footed and elegant dry Riesling should plunge upon this! 2023-2030+
(Reprint from Mosel Fine Wines Issue No 49 – January 2020)
The 2018er Riesling Falkenberg, as it is referred to on the main part of the label, was fermented and aged without any additive or their intervention
in large cask for 12 months before being bottled filtered and with minimal sulfur added (30 mg/l). It will be commercially released at the end of 2020.
This pale hey-yellow colored wine offers a beautifully aromatic nose made of pear, candied lemon zest, camphor, licorice, and pungent slate
elements. The wine is aromatic but focused on the beautifully creamy and zesty palate. It becomes more focused and fresher as it develops in the
glass. It then leaves a beautifully tart feel of ripe pear, melon, and star fruit in the long and rather engaging finish. A great sense of ripe fruits packed
into fresher elements makes for an elegant after-taste. This is best left alone for another couple of years before true enjoyment. We would not be
surprised if this will gain depth and ultimately warrant a higher rating at maturity. It is hugely impressive. 2023-2033 (Reprint from Mosel Fine Wines
Issue No 49 – January 2020)
Geltz-Zilliken
Weingut Geltz-Zilliken
(Saarburg – Saar)
The 2018er Saarburger Auf der Rausch Riesling Trocken GG comes from the Gewann “auf der Rausch” situated higher up in the front part of the
Saarburger Rausch, and was fermented and aged in traditional Fuder for 18 months before being bottled. This new wine in the Zilliken portfolio is
still remarkably reduced on the nose, which is marked by residual scents from its long spontaneous fermentation and some wet stone at first. These
then give way to gorgeous scents of pear, cassis, gooseberry, and melon, all wrapped into subtle blanket of creaminess. The wine is incredibly
intense on the palate, and yet only has 11% of alcohol! It leaves a stunningly pure and airy feel of grapefruit puree, melon, pear, and herbs in the
long and hugely persistent finish. The after-taste is still quite firm at first but opens up after a few days. This stunning expression of dry Riesling
mingles with the best in 2018! 2025-2033+
The 2019er Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit picked at 91° Oechsle, and was fermented to almost sweet levels of residual
sugar. This wine offers a stunning and tell-tale nose made of white peach, a hint of mint, cucumber, some white flowers, and a touch of whipped
cream, all beautifully integrated into some smoky reduction. It is breathtakingly well balanced on the peachy and floral palate, and leaves a
gorgeously engaging feel in the long and juicy finish. A touch of cream and apricot blossom adds persistence and some Spätlese Schmelz to this
absolutely gorgeous fruity-styled wine. What a great success! 2029-2049
The 2019er Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit picked at 101° Oechsle, and was fermented to sweet levels of residual sugar.
It offers a stunning nose made of yellow peach, grapefruit, lemon, apricot blossom, whipped cream, coconut, and fine spices. The develops the
creamy side of a “feine Auslese” on the palate but the stunningly ripe and pure feel of zest adds incredible juiciness to the wine. Whipped cream,
grapefruit vineyard peach and apricot make for a feast of the senses in the after-taste. This sweet wine is simply remarkable. While enjoyable on its
primary fruit now, it will hugely benefit from further bottle aging as the touch of sweetness will recede. But the balance and tension are already
remarkable now. 2029-2049
The 2019er Saarburger Riesling Feinherb was made from grapes exclusively harvested in the Rausch, and was fermented down to off-dry levels of
residual sugar (18 g/l of residual sugar). This wine offers a superb nose made of white peach, minty herbs, a hint of cucumber, herbs, and smoky
slate. It dances on the palate, where flavors of gooseberry join the party. The finish is almost dry-tasting and superbly engaging. This wine oozes
fragrance and finesse. This “village” bottling is a great success! 2024-2034
Fritz Haag
The 2019er Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit picked at moderate Oechsle degrees, and was fermented down to fruity-
styled levels of residual sugar. It offers a gorgeous nose made of white peach, red berry fruits, herbs, and fine spices. The wine is beautifully lively
and delicately fruity on the palate, where a hint of whipped cream adds class to this beautifully racy wine. The finish is all about multi-layered flavors
of lemon, whipped cream, floral elements, and mouthwatering acidity. This Kabinett is a modern-day fruity-styled classic in the making and one
which bears more than a hint of resemblance with the stunning fruity-styled wines dished up by the Fritz Haag in the 1990s: What a success! 2029-
2049
The 2019er Brauneberger Riesling Tradition (labelled as Feinherb on the back label) comes exclusively from the main Brauneberger hill (Juffer and
Juffer-Sonnenuhr) and stopped its fermentation at 15 g/l of residual sugar. It offers a backward nose made of residual scents from its spontaneous
fermentation, some minty herbs, a touch of smoke, and spices. The wine proves superbly juicy and intense on the palate, where fruits are joined by
delicately tart elements. The finish is all about minerals, pear, white peach, and herbs, all lifted up by a great tension between zesty grapefruit and a
touch of whipped cream. This off-dry Riesling is a huge success! It only needs a little bit of bottle aging to tame its youthful exuberance and round
off a few rough edges. 2024-2034
The 2019er Brauneberger Riesling Tradition (labelled as Semi-Dry on the back label) comes exclusively from the main Brauneberger hill (Juffer and
Juffer-Sonnenuhr) and stopped its fermentation at 15 g/l of residual sugar. It offers a backward nose made of residual scents from its spontaneous
fermentation, some minty herbs, a touch of smoke, and spices. The wine proves superbly juicy and intense on the palate, where fruits are joined by
delicately tart elements. The finish is all about minerals, pear, white peach, and herbs, all lifted up by a great tension between zesty grapefruit and a
touch of whipped cream. This off-dry Riesling is a huge success! It only needs a little bit of bottle aging to tame its youthful exuberance and round
off a few rough edges. 2024-2034
The 2019er Riesling comes mainly from Estate’s holdings in the Brauneberger Klostergarten, Burgener Römerberg, and Mülheimer Sonnenlay as
well as from young vines from the Brauneberger Juffer, and was fermented down to off-dry levels of residual sugar (17 g/l). It offers a gorgeous
even if hugely reduced nose made of mirabelle, herbs, spices, and smoke. After some airing, the wine develops a fresher side as lemon, red berry
fruits, and floral elements join the party. The wine proves gorgeously elegant and fragrant on the juicy and zesty palate, and leaves a beautiful,
mouthwatering feel of white peach, freshly cut apple, and herbs in the long and persistent finish. The presence in the after-taste is simply
remarkable, certainly by “mere” Estate wine standards! The balance makes this wine already gorgeously approachable now, but it will offer much
pleasure the best part of a decade, if not more. This is a huge success! Now-2029+
The 2019er Riesling Trocken comes from Estate’s holdings in the Brauneberger Klostergarten, Burgener Römerberg, and Mülheimer Sonnenlay as
well as from young vines from the Brauneberger Juffer. This bright-white-yellow colored wine offers a gorgeous even if still rather backward nose
made of gooseberry, mint, whipped cream, vineyard peach, and herbs. The wine develops unusual presence on the palate, but this intensity is
nicely buffered off by some flavors of fruits and herbs. The finish is long, elegant, and hugely persistent. Some flavors of lemon and red berried fruit
add to the experience in the aftertaste. This dry Riesling cruises far above the usual standards of a “mere” Estate wine and, accordingly, will benefit
from a little bottle aging to integrate its elements and shed the reduction. 2021-2027
Heinrichshof
Weingut Heinrichshof
(Zeltingen – Middle Mosel)
The 2019er Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese Riesling, as it is referred to on the front part of the label, was harvested at 140° Oechsle and was fermented
down to noble-sweet levels of residual sugar. This very pale-colored wine proves still very tight and primary on the nose. It however slowly develops
a quite breathtaking and ripe nose of rhubarb, honeyed peach, William’s pear, lemon, verbena, aniseed herbs, and spices, all wrapped into a fine
blanket of smoke. The wine reaches another dimension on the palate, where it offers classy supple, juicy, and pure flavors of yellow and exotic
fruits, mixing both ripeness and honey with candied zesty fruits and even a touch of lime in the long and sweet finish. This juicy and aromatic
dessert wine has everything to prove great at maturity. It will need however some time to absorb its currently noticeable sweetness and develop all
its nuances. 2034-2069
The 2018er Weissburgunder Fass #73, as it is referred to on the front part of the label, was aged on its gross lees for one year in 500-liter tonneau
before being bottled. It shows all the characteristics of a white Burgundy on the nose as elements from the oak influence, some aromatic and
buttery scents of pineapple, grapefruit, marzipan, juniper, fresh herbs, coconut, and pear, emerge from the glass. The wine is flowery, delicately
smooth, and at first light on the palate. It however quickly develops more depth and ripeness as well as power and intensity. And yet all components
remain nicely wrapped into a fresh feel and spices right into the very long and dry finish. Any lover of oak-driven 1er Cru white Burgundy from the
Côte de Beaune should try to taste this one. It is that impressive! 2023-2033+
The 2018er Sonnenuhr Zulast Riesling, as it is referred to on the front part of the label, was aged on its gross lees for one year in used 500-liter
tonneau from Burgundy before being bottled. It offers a quite smoky yet restrained nose of zesty fruits, almond paste, earthy spices, lime, and minty
herbs, all wrapped into a light blanket of oak influence and SO2. The wine proves rather supple and smooth. Rich and ripe notes of yellow fruits add
to the creamy side of the mid-palate. Yet it develops more grip and presence, and even a touch of opulence and power, in the finish and leaves one
with a nice feel of tartness, powerful salty elements, and earthy spices in the aftertaste. This wine has everything to impress as an oaked Riesling. It
now only needs a little bit of patience for its components to blend into each other. 2023-2028+
Dr. Hermann
The 2019er Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese Alte Reben was made from fully clean grapes picked at 95° Oechsle on very old un-grafted vines
higher up on the hill, and was fermented down to noble-sweet levels of residual sugar (105 g/l). The wine displays a magnificently restrained yet
complex and deep nose of candied grapefruit, fine mango, honeyed vineyard peach, spices, herbs, dried apricot, tangerine, anise, and smoke. It
proves beautifully balanced on the palate, where multi-layered flavors and sweetness are wrapped into a blanket of smoke and candied citrusy
fruits. The superb finish is all about almond cream, coconut, honey, and grapefruit zest. This is a breathtaking Prälat Auslese in the making! 2029-
2069
2019er Dr. Hermann Erdener Herzlei Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben GK 09 20 93+
The 2019er Erdener Herzlei Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben GK was made from fruit harvested at 96° Oechsle on very old un-grafted vines in this
prime sector of the Treppchen, and was fermented down to fully sweet levels of residual sugar (95 g/l). It reveals a beautifully exotic and very ripe
nose of mango, star fruit, apricot, fig, orange, and honeyed pear, all pepped up by great scents of white pepper, ginger, rosemary, and a hint of
passion fruit. The wine coats the palate with supple, honeyed, and juicy exotic fruits delivered with the juicy richness of an Auslese GK. It is nicely
juicy but also still on the sweet side at this stage in the delicately smoky and zesty aftertaste. This gorgeous sweet wine may well need more than a
decade to integrate its sweetness, and could easily surpass our already remarkably high expectations as it develops nuances and play. 2034-2059
The 2019er Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett -6- was made from fruit picked at 82° Oechsle on un-grafted vines in the prime Kammer part of
the sector of the vineyard, and was fermented in a Fuder cask down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (48 g/l). The wine develops beautiful
scents of fresh flowers, anise, and smoke at first. These are quickly joined by richer and riper elements including some pear, peach, and dried
apricot, all wrapped into fresher notes of violet and cassis. The wine coats the palate with yellow and slightly honeyed fruits but they are lifted up by
some gorgeous acidity in the finish. The wine then leaves one with a remarkable sense of intense freshness in the aftertaste. This fruity-styled wine
is simply superb. 2029-2049
The 2019er Riesling “H” is a tank-fermented fruity-styled wine (with 48 g/l of residual sugar) made from Estate holdings on steep slopes in Erden,
Lösnich, and Kinheim). It offers an attractive and quite aromatic nose made of pear, honeyed peach, a hint of apricot, Canary melon, and spices.
The wine develops quite some presence and intensity on the delicately creamy and juicy palate, a feeling which is enhanced by the touch of honey
running through the flavors. The wine leaves one with a hint of power (despite only showing 10.5% of alcohol) in the finish. Some earthy spices
nicely balanced out the still sweet presence in the aftertaste. This richer and slightly fuller expression of Dr. Hermann’s “H” than usual only needs a
couple of years to integrate its components and fully shine. 2022-2029
von Kesselstatt
The 2019er Josephshöfer Riesling Kabinett Feinherb was made from fruit harvested at 91° Oechsle, and was fermented down to off-dry levels of
residual sugar (25 g/l). It opens up to some ripe scents of pear, vineyard peach, apricot, herbs, and spices. The wine is nicely playful on the
comparatively intense palate, and leaves a powerful feel of pear puree, cream, minerals, earthy spices, and grapefruit in the long and almost
powerful finish. A touch of zest brings some focus and vibrancy to the flavors in the aftertaste. This off-dry Riesling really needs some bottle age to
integrate its elements. It will then reward one with fruits, balance, and complexity. 2024-2039
The 2019er Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett Feinherb was made from fruit harvested at 85° Oechsle, and was fermented down to off-dry levels of
residual sugar (26 g/l). It offers a rather backward and reduced feel of whipped cream, mirabelle, vineyard peach, dried flowers, and smoke. A
subtle sense of creaminess is beautifully wrapped into some ripe but zesty acidity and flavors of ripe fruits on the palate. The finish is long and
persistent, but also a tad linear at this early stage as pear, vineyard peach and a hint of cream drive the aftertaste. This off-dry wine will require a
few years to develop aromatically and show its full potential. 2024-2039
The 2019er Kaseler Kehrnagel Riesling Kabinett Feinherb was made from fruit harvested at 84° Oechsle, and was fermented down to off-dry levels
of residual sugar (21 g/l). It offers a subtle even if slightly reduced nose made of mirabelle, herbs, spices, and a hint of whipped cream, all wrapped
into some fine smoky elements. The wine is nicely playful and balanced on the palate, where a slightly milder acidity still whips up the juicy
underlying creaminess. The finish is direct easy and quite long. 2024-2034
The 2019er Spätburgunder Rosé RK is a legally wine made from fruit sourced mainly in the Middle Mosel and partially in the Obermosel and the
Saar. This pale partridge-eyed wine offers an attractive and direct nose of cranberry, confectionary cherry, a hint of herbs, and spices. It proves
nicely chalky and fragrant on the palate, and leaves a crisp and zesty feel of cooked red berried fruits and floral elements in the finish. This is a
nicely made Rosé! Now-2021
Lothar Kettern
The 2018er Stella, as it is referred to on the consumer label (and named after Philipp Kettern’s daughter), is a bone-dry wine (with less than 2 g/l of
residual sugar) made from fruit harvested in the Niederemmel part of the vineyard, and was fermented and aged in large wooden casks for almost
12 months. It offers a superb nose made of grapefruit, melon, pear, vineyard peach, a hint of herbs, and lots of smoke. The wine is gorgeously
playful and elegant on the light-bodied palate (no doubt also thanks to its moderate 11.5% of alcohol) and leaves a superb feel of fruits and herbs in
the long and airy finish. This is a truly remarkably dry wine in this overall rather hot vintage. We would not be surprised if it even gains further
nuances and finesse with age. 2023-2033
The 2018er Goldtröpfchen Kabinett, as it is referred to on the consumer label, was harvested at 80° Oechsle in both the Müstert and the Ferres
parts of the vineyard, and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (45 g/l). It is still very much under the impact of residual
scents from its spontaneous fermentation on the nose and only gradually reveals some gorgeous flavors of pear, grapefruit, apricot blossom, and
chalky minerals. The wine is beautifully balanced on the rather intense palate, and leaves a pure and clean feel of whipped cream, racy apple, pear,
and grapefruit zest in the long and delicately herbal finish. The after-taste is gorgeously playful as the sweetness is already well integrated. This is a
beautiful Kabinett, which remains fully within the canon of the genre. 2028-2048
The 2018er Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Trocken comes from the Müstert part of the vineyard, and was fermented and aged in large wooden
casks for 10 months. It offers an inviting but still rather reduced nose made of pear, almond paste, melon, a hint of cardamom and laurel, smoke,
and slate. The wine is beautifully complex and delicately suave on the palate, and leaves an intense and slightly powerful feel in the long and herbal
finish. A gorgeous touch of zest emerges in the finish and adds structure to the experience. The wine gains significantly from airing, and is therefore
best left alone for another few years. 2023-2033
NB: The Estate is certified organic along ECOVIN guidelines. As of 2018, the wines from the Staffelter Hof made along natural lines are bottled
under the name of its owner, Jan Matthias Klein label, to differentiate them better from the wines made with sulfur by the Estate. These wines made
along “natural” lines are marketed without any mention of a vintage on the label despite all wines being single-vintage and most resellers referring
to the implicit vintage in their communication. Readers will find the reference to the vintage inside our tasting notes.
The Little Bastard with Lot Number L-0120LB is a 2019er dry wine made along “natural” lines from Riesling from the Kröver Letterlay and Kirchlay
(55%), Sauvignon Blanc from the Kinheimer Hubertuslay (30%), Müller-Thurgau (10%) and skin-fermented Muscat (5%) from the Kröver Paradies
(the vintage is not provided on the label). All components were blended together in December and put back in old Fuder casks for a few more
months (to complete their malolactic fermentation). The wine was bottled unfiltered, without any SO2 added. This yellow-orange-colored wine
shows some CO2 upon opening (the wine is bottled with 3 g/l of residual sugar which leads to a tiny refermentation and adds a little fizziness). It
offers an attractive, ripe, and aromatic nose of quince, William’s pear, red fuji apple, macerated orange, plum, minty herbs, nut, and smoke. The
wine develops quite some supple and juicy flavors of ripe fruits at first, before a touch of zest comes through and adds focus to the herbal, tart, and
remarkably fresh finish. This natural wine will benefit from a further year in the bottle and integrate its tartness. 2022-2027
N.V. Jan Matthias Klein It’s Müller Time Sandersstruck (No AP) 89
The It’s Müller Time Sandersstruck with Lot Number L-0120 is a 2019er dry Müller-Thurgau made along “natural” lines from the Kröver Paradies
(the vintage is not provided on the label). 30% of the grapes are destemmed and skin-fermented for 17 days before being blended with the rest in
stainless steel tanks. The wine was bottled unfiltered without any SO2 added. This yellow-orange-colored wine reveals quite some CO2 upon
opening before revealing some direct and very aromatic scents of dried flowers, candied citrus, minty tangerine, verbena, apple, and licorice, all
wrapped into quite some spices. It proves is nicely perfumed and refreshing on the palate, as flavors of rose petal interplay with juicy apple and zest.
The finish is quite tight, tannic, and tart. All these elements are pepped up by a good dollop of CO2 at first. After some extensive airing, the wine
develops a smoother and more delicate side, with still some tickly and almost racy acidity in the background. The after-taste is long and aromatic.
This natural Müller-Thurgau simply needs a few of patience to fully shine. 2022-2029
Klosterhof
Weingut Klosterhof
(Brauneberg – Middle Mosel)
The Klosterhof is an old winemaking Estate which belonged to the Franciscan nuns until its secularization around 1800. It has belonged to the
same family ever since, now called Thomas. Young Dominique Thomas (also vineyard manager at the well-known Max Ferd. Richter Estate) and
his brother Benjamin joined their parents on the 9.5 ha family Estate (with holdings in prime vineyards in the Middle Mosel) four years ago and have
gradually upped the quality. Next to their family Estate, the brothers also decided to launch their own separate label “Dominique Thomas &
Benjamin Thomas” which focuses on the historic (and steep) part of the Brauneberger Klostergarten, an under-rated vineyard which was already
tended by the nuns.
The 2019er Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Beerenauslese was made from approx. 70% of botrytized fruit harvested at 125° Oechsle, and was
fermented down to fully noble-sweet levels of residual sugar (128 g/l). It proves quite reductive and non-saying at first. After the sulfur blows off with
air, the wine rewards one with ripe scents of roasted pineapple, almond, honey, guava, mirabelle, and plum, as well as a hint of toffee as it warms
up in the glass. The wine is honeyed and still pretty much on the sweet side on the smooth, medium-weighted, and juicy palate. It is only in the
finish that fresher flavors of candied citrusy fruits and herbs come through, and these add a real new dimension to this dessert wine. This sweet
wine will need a good decade in order to integrate its richness, but it will then prove a superb juicy BA. 2029-2059
2019er Dominique Thomas & Benjamin Thomas Brauneberger Klostergarten Riesling Auslese 12 20 92
The 2019er Brauneberger Klostergarten Riesling Auslese was harvested at 108° Oechsle with a hint of botrytis (20%), and was fermented down to
sweet levels of residual sugar (90 g/l). It captures one’s attention with aromatic and pure notes of passion fruit, before it unleashes complex scents
of pink grapefruit, fresh pineapple, lime sorbet, tangerine, pear, and minty herbs. The wine proves highly juicy, honeyed, and exotic on the palate. It
develops the presence of a (juicy) Auslese GK rather than that of a light drinking Auslese. The sweetness is nicely balanced by some acidity in the
long and juicy finish. The after-taste proves light and a tad softer. This sweet wine will need a good decade to fully blossom and show its best. But
the waiting will be worth it. 2029-2049
www.moselfinewines.com page 16 Issue No 51 - May 2020
Mosel Fine Wines
“The Independent Review of Mosel Riesling”
By Jean Fisch and David Rayer
2019er Dominique Thomas & Benjamin Thomas Brauneberger Klostergarten Riesling Alte Reben 13 20 90
The 2019er Brauneberger Klostergarten Riesling Alte Reben is a legally dry wine (with 7 g/l of residual sugar) made from fruit picked on 50-year-old
vines still trained on single pole, in a south-south-east facing part of the Klostergarten. It offers a refreshing and spicy nose made of green herbs,
anise, almond, white pepper, vineyard peach, greengage, lime, and granny smith apple. The wine proves quite ample and full of presence in the
fruit-driven and nicely smooth palate, and leaves a nice and intense feel of grip, spice, salty and earthy elements. An underlying feel of tartness
then comes through in the aftertaste which is still in need of integration. This serious dry wine only needs a bit of patience to shine. 2023-2029+
Gebrüder Knebel
Gebrüder Knebel
(Winningen – Terrassenmosel)
Gebrüder Knebel is the brainchild of young Alex and Chris Knebel, the sons of Fred Knebel, owner of the Weingut Fred Knebel (they are cousins of
Matthias Knebel). Both studied winemaking and got encouraged by the different aspect of “natural” winemaking, and decided to produce some of
these wines at their parents’ Estate as well. After several wines over the years, they launched the Gebrüder Knebel brand, named after their
grandparents’ Estate. They rely on 0.7 ha farmed as close to organic principles as possible to produce terroir-driven, minimal-intervention wines.
2018 is their first vintage under this label.
The 2019er Pet Nat Don’t be Afraid with lot number P1n0txMth is a blend of Spätburgunder (90%) and Müller-Thurgau (10%) picked in the
Winninger Röttgen, which completed its fermentation in bottle without any intervention during the process, and was disgorged without any dosage.
This very pale pink-colored wine offers a backward nose made of green herbs, a hint of fading rose, some chalky minerals and, above all, floral
elements. A subtle mousse underlines the beautiful elegance of this wine on the palate. It leaves a classy feel of cranberry, raspberry, and pear in
the long and refined finish. This remarkable effort will offer much pleasure over the coming few summers! Now-2023
Peter Lauer
The 2019er Riesling Stirn Fass 15 comes from the prime south-west-facing, upper-front part of the original Ayler Kupp hill, and was fermented down
to almost fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (38 g/l). This bright colored wine offers a stunning nose made of white peach, floral elements, smoke,
freshly cut apple, fine herbs, white flowers, and a subtle touch of smoke. It proves gorgeously playful on the grapefruit and peach infused palate,
and leaves a superb feel of orchard fruits sorbet, minerals, herbal elements, and lemony whipped cream in the vibrant and superbly complex finish.
This is a remarkable piece of Saar Riesling in the making! 2024-2044
The 2019er Ayler Kupp Riesling Kabinett Fass 8 was made from fruit harvested at a comparatively low 80° Oechsle on the original Kupp hill, and
was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (50 g/l). It offers a gorgeous and remarkably subtle nose made of white peach, whipped
cream, a hint of apricot blossom, floral elements, and smoke, all wrapped into some reductive scents from its spontaneous fermentation. The wine
is nicely playful and beautifully light-footed on the zesty and minerals palate, and leaves a splendid feel of apricot, grapefruit vineyard peach, and
pear sorbet in the floral and nicely vibrant finish. A very nicely ripe and juicy sense of zesty fruits adds to the pleasure of drinking this wine in the
long aftertaste. This is a gorgeous Kabinett in the making! 2029-2049
The 2019er Ayler Riesling Fass 1 comes from the front, east-facing part of the original Kupp hill, and was fermented down to barely off-dry levels of
residual sugar (12 g/l). It offers a beautiful even if still rather reduced nose made of grapefruit, red berry fruits, white peach, lemon, floral elements,
cardamom, and earthy spices as well as smoke (from the reduction). The wine proves on the powerful side on the palate, but this intensity is
gorgeously buffered off by minerals and zest. The finish is nicely tart and taste almost dry. This wine really needs a year or two to develop
aromatically and show its full beauty. 2021-2029
The 2019er Riesling Feinherb Alt Scheidt comes for half from Estate vineyards and for half from purchased fruit, and was fermented down to off-dry
levels of residual sugar (20 g/l). This bright-colored wine offers a stunning nose of white peach, apple, floral elements, and fine spices. The wine
proves remarkably intense on the otherwise superbly lively and engaging palate, and leaves a terrific, mouthwatering feel in the light and elegant
finish. The aftertaste is all about presence packed into lemony zest. This is easily the best Alt Scheidt we have ever tasted. What a success! 2021-
2029
The 2019er Riesling Feinherb Barrel X comes for half from Estate vineyards and for half from purchased fruit, and was fermented down to off-dry
levels of residual sugar (20 g/l). This bright-colored wine offers a stunning nose of white peach, apple, floral elements, and fine spices. The wine
proves remarkably intense on the otherwise superbly lively and engaging palate, and leaves a terrific, mouthwatering feel in the light and elegant
finish. The aftertaste is all about presence packed into lemony zest. This is easily the best Barrel X we have ever tasted. What a success! 2021-
2029
Schloss Lieser
The 2019er Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese, as it is referred to on the front part of the label, is still strongly marked by residual scents from its
spontaneous fermentation at first, but these quickly give way to gorgeously complex scents of flowers, vineyard peach, tangerine, candied citron,
minty herbs, smoke, and fine spices. While still naturally quite sweet at this early stage, the wine proves already incredibly balanced on the palate,
as its ripe, exotic, and honeyed flavors are beautifully packed into a beautiful zesty and almost racy acidity. The finish is super long, focused, and
vibrating. This stunning Auslese now only needs a bit of patience for it to fully shine. What a great success in the making! 2029-2049+
The 2019er Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, as it is referred to on the front part of the label, offers a quite reductive nose at first, but this smoky,
almond, and earthy side quickly gives way to rich and ripe scents of apricot, honeyed peach, candied grapefruit, ginger, and mirabelle. The wine
proves luscious and sweet on the palate, and leaves a superbly creamy and smooth feel in the long finish. It then turns on some superb flavors of
candied citrusy fruits packed into a bitter-sweet tension in the after-taste. This gorgeous “Auslese GK” styled dessert wine now only needs some
patience for the sweetness to melt away and the elements to integrate. 2034-2059
The 2019er Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese, as it is referred to on the front part of the label, offers a gorgeously aromatic nose driven by pure
fruity scents of pineapple, canned yellow peach, apricot, tangerine, and greengage, all wrapped into some fresh earthy herbs and smoke. The wine
coats the rich and luscious palate with beautifully pure and primary flavors of creamy, honeyed, and juicy fruits. The finish offers great zest and
freshness, but the overall balance remains on the sweet, smooth, and rich side at this early stage. This sweet dessert wine will need more than a
decade to fully integrate all its elements, but the patience is well worth the effort. 2034-2059
Carl Loewen
The 2019er Longuicher Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett is made from grapes harvested at 83° Oechsle on over 100-year-old un-grafted vines situated
high up the hill, and was fermented down to barely fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (42 g/l). This white-hay colored wine offers a deep and
delicately broad nose made of white peach, gooseberry, smoky slate, and residual scents from its spontaneous fermentation. It proves superbly
balanced on the palate, where gorgeous flavors of succulent white peach, minerals, and fine spices are delivered with Spätlese intensity and
presence. The finish is beautifully balanced, vibrating and yet remarkably refined. While this gorgeous fruity-styled wine is dangerously easy to
knock down now, it will only really reveal its full beauty in a decade or so. What a great success! 2029-2049
2019er Carl Loewen Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Trocken “1896” Alte Reben 10 20 93
The 2019er Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Trocken “1896” Alte Reben is a dry Riesling made from century-old un-grafted vines
(planted in 1896) in a plot at the lower end of the vineyard. This bright green-white colored wine is still remarkably primary and does not reveal
much beyond residual scents from its spontaneous fermentation at first. After extensive airing, some gorgeous notes of white peach, laurel, smoke,
and fine herbs emerge from the glass. The wine proves intense, precise, and full of character on the racy and subtly tart palate, and leaves a
powerful feel of minerals in the long and assertive finish. The 2019er rendition of this wine will need even more time than usual to fully open up and
unfold its beauty. But the DNA is mightily impressive! 2024-2034
The 2019er Maximiner Klosterlay Riesling, as it is referred to on the commercial label, is a barely off-dry wine (11 g/l of residual sugar) made from
45-year-old vines in the central part of the vineyard. This bright-colored wine offers a nose of white peach, a hint of cassis and smoke, with a
beautiful whiff of apricot blossom, pineapple, and coconut adding some depth to the aromatics. The wine is gorgeously precise and refined on the
palate, where a still slightly firm acidity and tartness need to integrate. It leaves a gorgeously precise and layered feel of fresh fruits and herbs in the
long finish and a delicately tart sensation in the after-taste. This is a great dry-tasting Riesling in the making! 2024-2034
The 2019er Riesling Trocken Varidor is made from grapes harvested in the steep part of the Leiwener Klostergarten and in the Thörnicher
Schiesslay. This bright-colored wine offers a big and hugely inviting nose made of succulent white peach, a hint of cardamom and other earthy
spices, smoke, and minerals. The wine is full of presence and remarkably subtle (certainly for a “mere” Estate wine) on the palate, where a good
kick of ripe acidity brings the juicy flavors of peach and minerals to life. The finish is still a bit robust and tart but, not to worry: This will have blended
away in a few months, leaving one with a heck of a piece of dry Riesling. 2021-2029
Margarethenhof
The Margarethenhof is a comparatively large operation as it oversees 20 ha of vineyards spread over the Obermosel (where its owners, the Weber
family, originates from) and the Saar, where the Webers took over the facilities and a large part of the vineyards of the Winzerverein Ayl in 2000.
Given its size, the Estate produces, quite understandably, a wide range of wines, which includes a low-intervention skin-fermented Riesling in 2018.
The 2018er R.Pure Natural, as it is referred to on the consumer label, is made from fruit picked on the original hill of the Ayler Kupp, which was
skin-fermented for three weeks before being pressed. It completed its fermentation and aging without any intervention in used oak until October
2019, when the resulting wine was bottled filtered and with moderate levels of sulfur added (total sulfur is about 80 mg/l). This deep golden-colored
wine offers a ripe and hugely aromatic nose made of quince, honey, cardamom, apricot, and infused mango, all lifted up by some lemon, apple, and
grapefruit zest. The wine proves delicately tannic on the palate. Fruits and spices convey a sense of opulence but these are quickly framed by
some tart and delicately racy elements in the long finish. The wine still needs a year or two (or being opened one or several days in advance) in
order to integrate its tannins. It should then prove a very satisfying and opulent expression of skin-macerated wines. 2021-2028
Maximin Grünhaus
The 2019er Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar. It offers a delicately creamy
nose made of yellow peach, white peach, mango, apricot blossom, cream, and spices. The wine starts off with the creamy presence of a Spätlese
on the palate but reveals a gorgeously zesty character in the long and vibrant finish. A touch of sweetness still needs to integrate in the aftertaste,
something which will happen easily after a decade of maturation. One will then be rewarded with mouthwatering Maximin Grünhaus minty fruitiness!
2029-2049
The 2019er Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese was fermented down to fully sweet levels of residual sugar. This yellow-colored wine
offers a backward nose made of apricot, lemon, grapefruit, pear, and vineyard peach, all wrapped into some reductive notes of wet stone, slate, and
smoke. It is delicately creamy and superbly finely sizzled on the palate, and leaves a multi-layered feel of ripe yellow orchard fruits in the long and
suave and delicately fruity-sweet finish. This combines the intensity of a light Auslese with the juicy drinking abilities of a gorgeous Spätlese. There
is quite some upside here as the sweetness will recede and the wine will develop its multi-layered nuances. 2029-2049
The 2019er Maximin Grünhäuser Bruderberg Riesling Kabinett was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar. This bright-yellow colored
wine offers a seemingly inviting but actually still rather reduced nose made of mirabelle, lemon, wet stone, floral elements, and smoky slate (the
wine takes two days to reveal its flavors at this stage). But then, this wine develops a gorgeously playful side on the mouthwatering palate, and
leaves a stunning feel of cassis, minty herbs, apricot blossom, and minerals in the long and lingering finish. A hint of cream adds Schmelz and a
flair of Spätlese to the great lemon and grapefruit-infused tension in the after-taste. This huge success may well prove the finest light fruity-styled
wine we have ever tasted from this vineyard! 2029-2049
The 2019er Maximin Grünhäuser Riesling Alte Reben, as it is written on the consumer label, proves still rather reduced and backward, and only
gradually opens up to offers some notes of pear, lemon, cassis, cardamom, minty herbs, and fine spices. The wine is fully dry on the palate, and
leaves a crisp and complex feel of orchard fruits, earthy spices, and tart minerals in the long and juicy finish. A hint of yellow fruit adds to the classy
experience in the aftertaste. This gorgeous dry Riesling cut along the canon of the grand classic examples from this Estate, will require a little
patience in order for the tartness and slightly rough edges to melt away. 2024-2034
Alfred Merkelbach
The 2019er Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese Urglück was harvested in this prime part of the central part of the vineyard still planted with old
un-grafted vines. It offers a gorgeously refreshing yet deep nose of grapefruit, lime, mint, spices, smoke, green apple, pear, orange blossom, and
vineyard peach. The wine proves stunningly playful and delicate on the palate as its sweet richness underlined by almond cream, honeyed peach,
and pineapple and magnificently wrapped into some energetic and lively acidity. The finish is hugely long and intense. This stunning Auslese is a
modern-day classic in the making! 2029-2049
The 2019er Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese AP 08 was harvested in the sector next to the Sonnenuhr. It offers a hugely attractive nose of
vineyard peach, whipped almond cream, minty herbs, spices, William’s pear, and candied grapefruit. The wine is still on the sweet side on the
palate, but its refined fruity and creamy side are superbly appealing. Add to this a great zest and a sense of purity side in the long and animating
finish, and you have all the elements for a great playful Auslese in a decade and more. 2029-2059
The 2019er Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese AP 06 was harvested in the Fischerei part of the vineyard. It offers a quite aromatic and
delicately exotic nose of pineapple, grapefruit, orange blossom, smoke, and raspberry. The wine is beautifully fruity and juicy on the palate, and
leaves a satisfyingly assertive and focused feel in the zesty finish. This Spätlese is already quite open for business but will only reveal its full
complexity in a few years. 2027-2039
The 2019er Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett was fermented down to barely fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. This bright-white colored wine
offers a rather subtle and, at the beginning, even shy nose driven by reduction. After a little airing, absolutely textbook flavors of white peach, white
flowers, and slate emerge from the glass. These classic flavors for a Scharzhofberger carry over onto the palate, where they are joined by some
zesty acidity and a gorgeous touch of whipped cream. Everything is simply in balance and this sense of completeness also drives the gorgeous
finish and after-taste. This hugely impressive Kabinett is without doubt one of the finest at this Estate over the last few years! 2029-2044
The 2019er Wiltinger braune Kupp Riesling Spätlese AP 05 was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar. This bright yellow-white-colored
wine offers a superb nose made of white peach, a hint of apricot blossom, aniseed herbs, ginger, whipped cream, and smoky elements. The wine is
superbly playful and precise on the palate, where apricot-driven elements become slightly more apparent. The finish is precise, long, and elegant.
The wine then leaves one with an animating feel of zest, a hint of exotic fruits, and plenty of whipped cream and white peach in the lingering after-
taste. This superb fruity-styled wine will offer much pleasure already a bit earlier in its life as the sweetness is nicely integrated. 2024-2044
The 2019er Wiltinger braune Kupp Riesling Kabinett was fermented down to barely fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. It offers a superb nose
made of cassis, gooseberry, white peach, smoke, and a hint of aniseed herbs, all wrapped into quite a blanket of smoke at this early stage. The
wine is beautifully subtle, playful, and elegant on the palate, where racy acidity adds to the precision and nuances of the wine. The after-taste is
beautifully balanced and subtle, and proves very engaging as the sweetness is already nicely integrated. This may well be the finest Kabinett ever
out of the braune Kupp! 2024-2044
The 2019er Riesling Scharzhof is an off-dry wine made from Estate holdings in the Wiltinger Braunfels, Oberemmeler Rosenberg, and Saarburger
Rausch. This bright white-colored wine offers a gorgeous nose made of white peach, apricot blossom, a hint of cream, smoke, slate, and still quite
some residual scents from its spontaneous fermentation. The wine proves gorgeously intense and even almost powerful on the palate at first, but
then develops great finesse in the long and subtle finish. Some minty herbs join the gorgeous flavors of white peach, chalky minerals, and a hint of
whipped cream in the delicately airy and off-dry tasting after-taste. This wine proves a huge success but one which will benefit from a few years of
bottle aging to develop its full aromatic finesse. 2024-2039
Stefan Müller
The 2019er Niedermenniger Sonnenberg Kabinett Alte Reben was harvested at 84° Oechsle on 60-year-old vines in a south-facing part of the
vineyard higher up the hill, and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (48 g/l). It offers a gorgeous nose made of residual
scents from its spontaneous fermentation, cassis and lemon sorbet, some vineyard peach, a hint of pear and mirabelle, and gorgeously minty herbs.
The wine is delicately racy but also on the intense side by Kabinett standards (no doubt due to the remarkably high levels of dry extracts), but
proves gorgeously playful in the mouthwatering and hugely racy finish. This is a superb fruity-styled wine in the making! 2029-2049
www.moselfinewines.com page 21 Issue No 51 - May 2020
Mosel Fine Wines
“The Independent Review of Mosel Riesling”
By Jean Fisch and David Rayer
The 2019er Niedermenniger Sonnenberg Spätlese Riesling Alte Reben was harvested at 88° Oechsle on 50-year-old vines in a south-facing part of
the prime Kleinschock part of the vineyard, and was fermented down to fully fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (59 g/l). It offers a stunning nose
made of white peach, chalky minerals, floral elements, a hint of whipped cream, and some subtle smoky elements. The wine is gorgeously playful
and refreshing on the slender yet multi-layered palate, and leaves a complex and subtle feel of white peach, apple, some laurel, a hint of apricot
blossom, and fine mineral and floral elements in the long and juicy finish. This is a gorgeous “old-styled” Auslese in the making! 2029-2049
The 2019er Niedermenniger Sonnenberg Riesling Feinherb Alte Reben is an off-dry wine (with 28 g/l of residual sugar) made from 100-year-old un-
grafted vines in a south-facing part of the vineyard (Röderchen). It offers a gorgeous nose made of white peach, mirabelle, a hint of laurel, and lots
of freshly cut apple. The wine is gorgeously tight and precise on the palate, where apple, cassis, lemon zest, and chalky elements are beautifully
wrapped into some zesty acidity and a hint of cream. The finish is almost dry-tasting and remarkably vibrant. This superbly vibrant expression of off-
dry Riesling only needs a few years of patience to smoothen its edges. 2024-2034
The 2019er Krettnacher Altenberg Riesling Trocken comes from the Estate’s parcel in the prime, Diabas-infused, Ober Schäfershaus part of the
vineyard. It offers a gorgeous nose made of white peach, smoky slate, a hint of laurel, white apple, Conference pear, and some floral elements. The
wine is still rather firm at first on the palate but some gloriously fresh juicy peach and a hint of whipped cream as well as loads of chalky minerals all
add depth to the experience. The finish is still on the tart side at this early stage, but the aftertaste underlines the wine’s finesse and intense
lightness. This great dry Riesling will really shine in a couple of years. 2024-2034
von Othegraven
The 2019er Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Kabinett AP 06 was made from fruit harvested at 82° Oechsle, and was fermented down to barely fruity-
styled levels of residual sugar (45 g/l). It offers a superbly complex nose made of mirabelle, pear, a hint of whipped cream, and earthy spices, all
wrapped into some residual scents from the spontaneous fermentation at this early stage. The wine proves delicately intense and fruity on the
palate, where a touch of Spätlese-styled creaminess is beautifully wrapped into some citrusy acidity. This citrusy side also lends the delicately
smooth finish great focus and vibrancy. This gorgeous fruity-styled wine only needs a few years of patience to fully shine! 2029-2049
The 2019er Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit harvested at 79° Oechsle, and was fermented down to barely fruity-styled levels
of residual sugar (40 g/l). It offers a gorgeous nose made of yellow peach, mirabelle, herbs, spices, and smoke, all wrapped in a blanket of residual
scents from the spontaneous fermentation. The wine is gorgeously racy and appealing on the palate, where pear, lemon, and minerals are whipped
up by some quite racy acidity. The finish is all about playful intensity wrapped into a stunning sense of lightness, minerals, and off-dry lemony
flavors. This is an absolutely fabulous, old fashioned Kabinett in the making! 2027-2049
The 2019er Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Spätlese AP 09 was made from fruit harvested at 93° Oechsle, and was fermented down to sweet levels
of residual sugar (80 g/l). It offers a gorgeous even if still rather reduced nose made of pear, white peach, cassis, honey, apricot, flint stone, smoke,
and residual scents from its spontaneous fermentation. The wine is beautifully balanced and playful on the finely sizzled palate, and leaves precise
yet subtly vibrant flavors of apricot, honey, whipped cream, and smoke in the long and focused finish. A more honeyed side in the aftertaste adds a
delicately exotic side to this beautiful sweet wine. 2029-2049
The 2019er Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit harvested at 80° Oechsle, and was fermented down to barely fruity-styled
levels of residual sugar (45 g/l). It offers a superb and remarkably subtle nose made of mirabelle, white peach, apple, pear, earthy spices, and
residual scents from its spontaneous fermentation. The wine is beautifully vibrant on the finely sizzled and light-footed palate, and leaves a nice feel
of fresh fruits and tart minerals in the long and engaging finish. A touch of harshness comes through in the aftertaste which will go away after a few
years of bottle aging. What a great Kabinett in the making! 2027-2039
Julien Renard
Julien Renard is the offspring of a French-German couple and grew up in beer country, in northern Germany. After 10 years in theatrical arts, this
passionate wine lover decided to give his career a change and made his winemaking apprenticeship at Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein. He worked
for a short period with Matthias Knebel (Weingut Knebel), before taking up a position at Matthias’ uncle Estate, Weingut Fred Knebel, also in
Winningen. Besides his day job, he took on 0.7 ha of vineyards and rented garages and cellars to make his own wines, following as close as
possibly organic principles and “natural” lines in the cellar (i.e. without any intervention except for a little sulfur added at bottling). 2018 is his debut
vintage.
The 2019er Müller-Thurgau Trocken Pétillant Naturel with lot number 02022020P3TMTH is a Perlwein made from fruit harvested in the Winninger
Domgarten, which was fermented without intervention and finished its fermentation in bottle. It will come onto the market after a flying disgorgement.
This bright colored wine offers a stunning nose made of cassis, elderflower, chalky minerals, a hint of spices, and herbs. It is beautifully playful and
elegant on the palate, where a nice and very subtle mousse adds depth and zest to the experience. This is a remarkably engaging wine to enjoy
over the coming summers. Now-2023
The 2019er Riesling Trocken Pétillant Naturel with lot number 02022020P3TR13 is a Perlwein made from fruit harvested in the Winninger
Domgarten, which was fermented without intervention and finished its fermentation in bottle. It will come onto the market after a flying disgorgement.
This hay-colored wine offers an inviting nose made of pear, quince, apricot blossom, whipped cream, cardamom, and other fine spices. The wine is
nicely balanced and delicately smooth at first the palate before a gorgeously active mousse lifts up the flavors in the long and rich finish. This is a
beautiful even if slightly bigger version of Pet Nat! Now-2023
The 2019er Elisenberger Riesling Kabinett, as it is referred to on the consumer label, was made from fruit picked at 84° Oechsle, and was
fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (53 g/l). It offers a stunning nose made of white peach, flowers, ginger, smoke, and cassis.
The wine is superbly engaging on the palate, where a juicy sense of acidity lifts up the flavors. The wine is gorgeously light-footed and yet so
vibrant and full of flavors. The finish is simply stunning. What a huge success made in a classic Kabinett style! 2029-2049
The 2019er Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett -4-, as it is referred to on the consumer label, was made from fruit picked at a low 78° Oechsle on
over 80-year-old un-grafted vines, and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (45 g/l). It offers stunning even if slightly reduced
scents of white flowers, white peach, pear, apricot blossom, cassis, minerals, and smoke. The wine proves featherlight yet packed with gorgeous
flavors on the palate and leaves a remarkable feel of fresh vibrant fruits, zest, and delicate herbal elements in the impeccably balanced finish. The
finesse coupled with the lightness are simply awe-inspiring. What a stunning success! 2029-2049
The 2019er Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit picked at 84° Oechsle in the area around the sundial and in the upper part
of the vineyard, and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (47 g/l). It offers a superb nose made of white peach, freshly cut
apple, flowers, and smoky elements. The wine is incredibly subtle and playful on the palate, and leaves a superb feel of white flowers, pear, and
apricot blossom in the light-footed and finely sizzled finish. A touch of beautifully integrated sweetness just underlines the greatness of this wine in
the finish. This is text-book stuff! 2029-2049
The 2018er Pinot Noir, as it is referred to on the consumer label, comes made from largely de-stemmed fruit picked in the Mülheimer Sonnenlay,
and was fermented and aged in used 2-3-year-old barrique for 16 months before being bottled unfiltered. This bright red-colored wine opens up to
gorgeously deep scents of cherry, clove, some spices, and chalky elements. The wine is beautifully playful on the palate, where more silky flavors
of cherry, cranberry, and fine spices make for a gorgeous experience. A touch of zest adds structure to the gorgeous finish. The after-taste is all
about deep and comparatively complex fruits enhanced by some subtle spicy elements. This debut red wine at the Max Ferd. Richter Estate is a
resounding success! Now-2028
Willi Schaefer
The 2019er Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. It offers an absolutely tantalizing
and hugely complex nose made of yellow peach, minty herbs, grapefruit, lime peel, a hint of whipped cream, and fresh lily flowers, all wrapped into
fine residual scents from the spontaneous fermentation. The wine has grip, energy, and great focus on the palate, yet remains at all moment
extremely light and balanced. A bracing and spicy touch of acidity then kicks in, giving the wine structure and blending the flavors together as well
as whipping them up right into the tight and hugely long finish. This remarkable Kabinett in the making is set to become a modern-day legend!
2027-2043
The 2019er Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese AP 10 was harvested mainly in the Fergert sector of the vineyard, and was fermented down to
sweet levels of residual sugar. It offers a most beautiful nose of vineyard peach, spices, almond cream, smoke, anise, and herbs. The wine is
magnificently creamy, delicate, and smooth on the intense palate and leaves some subtle and fresh notes of candied zesty fruits in the long and
lingering finish. This fruity-styled wine develops some Auslese presence in the after-taste, certainly for the Estate’s standards, but, as such, it is a
superb fruity-styled wine in the making. 2029-2049
The 2019er Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar. It captures one’s attention with a quite
primary, smoky, and floral nose of white peach, herbs, grapefruit, citrus, and lots of spices. The wine develops some succulent yellow and canned
fruits as well as a hint of apricot cream on the direct palate. All these elements are well wrapped into a dynamic and focused acidity, which whips up
the flavors in the long and delicately fruity and honeyed finish. This wine needs a good decade to integrate its touch of upfront richness and
sweetness on the palate, but everything is present for a great Spätlese at maturity. 2029-2049
The 2019er Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. It offers a beautifully aromatic and
elegantly ripe nose of yellow peach, orange blossom, tangerine, mint, smoke, and a hint of apricot. The wine proves delicately creamy and superbly
juicy on the palate, driven by fruity flavors of peach, apple, and pear. While intense, the wine proves refreshing and animating in the beautifully
balanced finish. It leaves a stunning long, chiseled, and animating feel in the aftertaste. This wine may develop some Spätlese flair, but it is a truly
remarkable one! 2027-2039
Staffelter Hof
NB: The Estate is certified organic along ECOVIN guidelines. As of 2018, the wines made along natural lines are bottled under the Jan Matthias
Klein label (see these wines in a separate entry) in order to better differentiate them from the wines made with sulfur by the Staffelter Hof.
The 2019er Kröver Steffensberg Riesling Spätlese was made with a hint of botrytis (10%), and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual
sugar (82 g/l). The wine offers a beautifully complex, floral, and fresh nose of yellow peach, candied grapefruit, almond cream, pear, mint, and
spices, all wrapped into some residues from its spontaneous fermentation. It proves superbly balanced on the palate, where some creamy and juicy
fruits interplay with zesty and spicy elements. There is great presence and depth, and the length is stunning. It has actually more of the character of
an Auslese than a true light Spätlese. This gorgeous success only needs a couple of years of patience for the touch of “baby fat” to blend away in
the aftertaste. 2027-2049
The 2019er Riesling Paradies Feinherb, as it is referred to on the front part of the label, and was fermented down to off-dry levels of residual sugar
(19 g/l). It offers a very flowery, elegant, and minty nose of tangerine, green apple, lime, sage, spices, and white peach, all wrapped into residual
scents from its spontaneous fermentation. The wine is delicately juicy and fruity on the palate and keeps this freshness and liveliness up to the
zesty and pure finish. The length is impeccable, and the aftertaste is already almost tasting dry. This refreshing and delicately zesty dry-tasting
Riesling is a great success. Now-2034
Günter Steinmetz
The 2019er Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit harvested at 84° Oechsle, and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels
of residual sugar (48 g/l). This bright-colored wine offers a superb nose made of juicy white peach, white flowers, a hint of apricot blossom, and
plenty of lemon and grapefruit infused zest. The wine is gorgeously playful on the palate, and leaves a stunningly complex and subtle feel of flowers,
herbs, and fine spices, all wrapped into a touch of citrusy whipped cream in the long and gorgeously elegant finish. A hint of apricot blossom adds
Schmelz, class, and presence to the airy aftertaste. This superb fruity-styled wine combines great intensity and depth with gorgeous lightness and
zest. What a huge success! 2029-2049
The 2019er Mülheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit harvested at 88° Oechsle, and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels
of residual sugar (48 g/l). It offers a beautifully fragrant nose made of yellow peach, pear, floral elements, and some apricot blossom. The wine
develops the delicate touch of Schmelz of a Spätlese on the palate but this side is quickly whipped up by some gorgeously ripe yet zesty acidity in
the finish. The aftertaste is juicy, mouthwatering, fruity, and very satisfying. Even if it is hard to resist now, this gorgeous fruity-styled wine will prove
an absolute delight at maturity, in a decade or so. 2029-2049
The 2018er Chardonnay Virgo Natura was made from fruit picked in the Lehmener Klosterberg (sourced from the befriended Gerlachs Mühle
Estate) and was skin-fermented for 2 weeks before being transferred in a new Stockinger cask for two months and then in a traditional Fuder cask
for 10 months. The wine was fermented down to 8 g/l of residual sugar, and was made without any additive except for a little sulfur at bottling (15
mg/l). This fully bronze-orange-colored wine offers an inviting nose made of orange peel, lemon zest, some funk, and delicately creamy elements.
The wine is delicately smooth (but not sweet) on the palate, where a tannic structure adds cut to the rich and remarkably complex flavors. The finish
is dry and tannic. A hint of CO2 adds an inviting side to the aftertaste. This Orange wine proves quite a success even if the smooth side may
surprise at first. Now-2028
The 2018er Pinot Noir with lot number 02/19 comes from Estate holdings in Burgen, Kesten, and Mülheim as well as fruit in the Brauneberger
Klostergarten and Piesporter Falkenberg bought from befriended growers. It was only destemmed to 60% and was fermented in used barrique for
12 months before being bottled unfiltered. This brick red wine offers a stunning nose made of frozen raspberry, clove, chalky spices, and a hint of
soy sauce. The wine is gorgeously complex and silky but not without tannic structure on the palate and leaves a superb feel of cranberry, chalky
minerals, and deep cherry in the silky after-taste. This may be “only” the entry level Pinot Noir but it would give the top end bottlings at many
Estates a good run for their money: This is a huge success! Now-2028
Tiny Winery
Sven Zerwas discovered his love for wine after starting his career in the restaurant trade. After a few years as Estate manager at Weingut Goswin
Kranz, he returned to the food sector in 2019 but set up a small Estate with 2.5 ha of vineyards, as a side activity, with the objective of producing
traditionally made wines, including some with minimal-intervention and low sulfur added, as of 2020. In the meantime, he produced some wines
with fruit sourced from a befriended grower in Veldenz.
The 2018er Pinot Noir Big Bamm! with Lot 4/19 is made from grapes harvested in the Brauneberger Mandelgarten. It was made without any sulfur
added during the whole process, and was aged in used barrique for approx. 1 year before being bottled unfiltered. The wine offers a superb nose
made of ripe red-berry fruits, strawberry juice, fresh cherry, and red currant, as well as smoke and a hint of tar and chocolate (from the oak aging).
The wine is beautifully balanced on the palate. While the tannins are still noticeable, they are gorgeously ripe and more than hint already at the
suave side which this wine will reward one with at maturity. The aftertaste is beautifully smooth and long. This is a truly superb Pinot Noir from the
Mosel! 2022-2033
The 2019er Riesling Big Bamm! with Lot 5/20 is made from grapes harvested in the Veldenzer Grafschafter Sonnenberg, was fermented in used
Fuder down to barely off-dry levels of residual sugar (10 g/l). It was aged on its gross lees without SO2 before being filtered and bottled with little
SO2 added (25 mg/l). The wine offers a nicely fresh yet ripe nose of grapefruit, minty herbs, spices, pear, rose, smoke, and greengage. It develops
good presence on the palate, and leaves a slightly soft and creamy feel in the just off-dry tasting finish. This wine will clearly benefit from further
cellaring in order for the touch of tartness and hint of sweetness to mellow away. 2022-2027
The 2018er Kinheimer Hubertuslay Riesling Auslese is made from almost fully fruit harvested at 96° Oechsle and was fermented down to sweet
levels of residual sugar (89 g/l). This bright-colored wine offers an absolutely gorgeous and flowery nose made of vineyard peach, apricot, honey,
candy floss, and, above all, superbly flowery and mineral elements. The wine proves beautifully slender and engaging on the precise and nuanced
palate, and leaves a stunning feel of ripe fruits and creamy elements in the long and very refined finish. Only a touch of sweetness still needs to
integrate and mellow away in the aftertaste, something which will happen in a decade or so. This gorgeous Auslese is all about subtlety! 2028-2048
Vollenweider
Weingut Vollenweider
(Traben-Trarbach – Middle Mosel)
The 2019er Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit partially affected by botrytis (20%) picked at 96° Oechsle, and was fermented
down to sweet levels of residual sugar (92 g/l). It offers a rather backward nose made of pear, mirabelle, whipped cream, a hint of fresh pineapple,
and plenty of smoke and wet stone. The wine is gorgeously and finely sizzled on the palate, where subtle flavors of lemon, apricot blossom, white
pepper, and herbs woe for one’s attention. The finish is all about subtle creamy and zesty finesse, and this despite the comparatively high sugar
levels of the must. This gorgeous “feine Auslese” expression of Riesling is simply to die for. We would not be surprised if it would eventually warrant
an even higher rating, such is its potential. What a wine! 2029-2049
The 2019er Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit harvested at 87° Oechsle, and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of
residual sugar (57 g/l). It proves still rather reduced and does initially only reveal some faint scents of white peach, ginger, herbs, mirabelle, and
smoky slate, but this gains considerably with airing and shows depth and huge complexity. The wine is superbly racy and engaging on the palate,
where fresh flavors of orchard fruits and some lemon zest are perfectly buffered off by a touch of whipped cream. The finish is all about this
incredible floral “lemonness” (if this is not a word, it is now) of genuinely great fruity-styled Mosel wines in their youth. This amazing wine may have
a bit of Spätlese Schmelz, but it proves oh-so pure, refreshing, and persistent. What a glorious effort! 2029-2049
The 2019er Kröver Steffensberg Riesling Spätlese was made from essentially clean fruit harvested at 103° Oechsle, and was fermented down to
sweet levels of residual sugar (90 g/l). It offers an absolutely stunning nose made of quince, star fruit, pear, candied lemon zest, white peach, wet
stone, and smoky herbs. Despite its huge must weight, the wine comes over as remarkably playful and is driven by a superbly ripe sense of acidity.
The finish is racy, engaging, and superbly mouthwatering. This sweet wine proves a huge success, but one has to keep in mind that this is a fuller
bodied expression of Mosel sweet wine than the Spätlese label may indicate. Think “drinking feine Auslese” and then enjoy in a decade and much
more! 2029-2049
Dr. Wagner
The 2019er Saarburger Laurentius Riesling Kabinett, as it is referred to on the consumer label, was harvested at 85° Oechsle on 120-year-old un-
grafted vines in the prime and under-rated Laurentiusberg vineyard solely owned by the Estate, and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of
residual sugar (52 g/l). It is still marked by residual scents from its spontaneous fermentation at first and only gradually reveals its breath-taking
nose made of pear, white peach, fine herbal and spicy elements, a hint of whipped cream, and lots of cassis in the background. The playfulness on
the palate is simply stunning, where the wine combines subtle pear, racy grapefruit sorbet and deliciously tart elements of chalky minerals. The
aftertaste is complex, racy, deep and, above all, packed with some superbly subtle, intense, and vibrating flavors of fruit and flowers. This first
Kabinett by the Estate from this vineyard is a great success! 2029-2049
The 2019er Rausch Riesling Spätlese Josef Heinrich, as it is referred to on the consumer label, was harvested on 50-year-old vines, and was
fermented down to barely fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (36 g/l). It offers a superb nose made of mirabelle, grapefruit zest, cassis, smoke, and
earthy spices. The wine is beautifully balanced on the light-footed and elegant palate, and leaves a superb feel of fruits in the smooth finish. The
sweetness proves already gracefully integrated into some Saar lemon sorbet fruit in the long and engaging aftertaste. While this makes the wine
almost irresistible now, it will prove even finer in a couple of years, at maturity. 2027-2039
The 2019er Riesling Pétillant Naturel with lot number 01-2020 was made without any intervention in the cellar (including no sulfur) from fruit
harvested in the Saarburger Kupp before being bottled for its secondary fermentation with 10 g/l of residual sugar, and was released without being
disgorged. This bright-colored Pet Nat offers a tantalizing nose made of subtle scents of pear, herbs, brioche, a hint of almond paste, lemony
elements, and yeasts. Where this sparkling wine comes into its own is on the palate, where the very subtle mousse just lifts up the flavors of fruits
and spices. The finish is enjoyable as a hint of baked apple, lots of minerals, and herbs make for a feast of the senses. Forget your “jovial” Pet Nat,
this has the finesse of a truly fine Sekt … with the added advantage of immediate appeal! Now-2024
The 2019er Saarburger Riesling Alte Reben, as it is referred to on the consumer label, is a legally dry wine made from 50-year-old vines in the
Kupp. It offers a gorgeous nose made of white peach, lemon, grapefruit, minty herbs, earthy spices, and chalky minerals, all wrapped into some
smoky elements. The wine is superbly light and engaging on the palate, where a ripe but noticeable sense of acidity lifts up the flavors. The finish is
airy, elegant, and fragrant. This beautiful dry wine is all about joie de vivre but not without quite some refinement. This is surprisingly open and
already beautifully balanced now, but the wine will hold up nicely for a decade or so. Now-2029
Weiser-Künstler
Weingut Weiser-Künstler
(Traben-Trarbach – Middle Mosel)
The 2019er Trabener Gaispfad Riesling Kabinett Trocken is a fully dry wine made from fruit picked on over 70-year-old un-grafted vines. It offers a
beautifully aromatic nose of spices, wet stone, smoke, fresh herbs, yellow fruits, grapefruit, hazelnut, and lavender. The wine develops far more grip
and energy than one would usually expect from a dry Kabinett on the palate (it does also have 12.5% of alcohol), and leaves a stunning sense of
depth and zesty presence in the superbly long and almost sharp finish. The aftertaste is still on the tart side, as one would expect it to be in a young
high-end dry Riesling. This is a truly remarkable dry Riesling even if may break the classical mold of a Kabinett. What a huge success! 2025-2039
The 2019er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit harvested on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole, and was
fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (45 g/l). It offers a beautifully creamy and ripe nose of whipped almond cream, yellow peach,
pear, pineapple, some earthy spices, cardamom, and violet. Ripe fruits add to the sensation of smoothness and richness on the juicy but sweet
palate. However, a kick of zesty acidity gives cut and precision to the finish. This “big” wine by Kabinett standards truly shines through its
flavorsome precision in the delicately tart and very persistent aftertaste. This gorgeous fruity-styled wine only needs a few years of patience in order
to fully shine. 2026-2039
The 2019er Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested on largely un-grafted vines still trained on single pole, and was
fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (80 g/l). This light yellow-golden colored wine offers a hugely exotic and ripe nose of rhubarb,
apricot, pear, pineapple, spices, tangerine, and some refreshing mint. The wine is on the sweet and honeyed side on the palate, where its ripe and
creamy flavors of fruits are beautifully wrapped into some ripe and zesty acidity, and leaves a structured and assertive feel in the long, baroque, and
not overly sweet finish. This sweet wine cut along the mold of an Auslese GK proves remarkably pure and enjoyable. 2027-2039
The 2019er Riesling Weiser-Künstler is a barely off-dry wine made from Estate’s holdings and from grapes sourced at a befriended organic grower
in the Enkircher Steffensberg. It offers a delicately spicy and refreshing nose of citrusy fruits, minty herbs, green apple, orange blossom, peach, and
tangerine. The wine starts off with a hint of sweetness on the palate, but this sensation is quickly wrapped into some gorgeous acidity. The finish is
superbly vibrant but also still on the youthful side. This beautiful dry-tasting wine only needs a bit of bottle aging to give it a chance to integrate its
components and fully shine. 2022-2029
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