Unit 8
Unit 8
Unit 8
UNIT 8 COSMACEUTICALS
Structure
8.1 Introduction
Objectives
8.2 Cosmetics and its History
8.3 Classification of Cosmetics
8.4 Skin
The Cosmetics for the Skin
Skin Colourants
8.5 Cosmetics for Hairs
8.6 Nail Cosmetics
8.7 Tooth and Dental Products
8.8 Summary
8.9 Key Words
8.10 Terminal Questions
8.11 Answers
Suggested Readings
Appendix A
8.1 INTRODUCTION
The marketing of pharmaceutical products includes marketing of all the
cosmetics known as cosmeceuticals. Cosmetics as defined in the Drugs and
Cosmetics Act, means articles meant to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or
sprayed or introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part
thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the
appearance. All the cosmetics are covered as over the counter products. Unlike
the medicines, these cosmetics are marketed through the retail chemist shops as
well as through the general stores. Hence the cosmetics are distributed through
the pharmaceutical distribution channel as well as the FMCG distribution
channels. The information about the cosmetics can be advertised through the
mass media and differs in this respect from the advertising of drug
preparations.
Objectives
After studying this unit you should be able to:
• differentiate between the drugs and cosmetics;
• classify the cosmetics; and
• asses the importance of cosmetics in body care.
The word ‘cosmetics’ arises from a Greek word ‘kosmeticos’ which means to
adorn. Since that time any material used for beautification or improvement of 157
Pharmaceutics appearance is known as cosmetic. The urge to adorn one’s own body and look
beautiful has been an urge in the human race since the tribal days. Earlier both
males and females were equal competitors for improvement of appearance.
Males decorated themselves with animal parts and vegetable leaves etc. while
women did so by wearing any coloured stones or flowers round their neck and
the wrists. At a later stage they employed coloured earth for faces and bodies
and still later coloured ointments. Bangles and necklaces made of backed earth
also became common in the early civilization as well as shells of various kinds
obtained from nature. In digging up ancient Egyptian tombs much light has
fallen on the ancient practices of beautification. Pharaohian tombs have
revealed that coloured earths were like malachite green. The copper ore was
used as eye shadows. Lamp black was common too for eyes. For dyeing of
hairs red was also practiced. The dancing ladies applied ointments perfumed
with materials like myrrh to head so that when they danced the perfumed
ointment would flow down their bodies emitting pleasant smell all over. The
history also records that when Jehu went to the town of Jezebel she painted her
face and looked out from window. The use of cosmetics in ancient Egypt
reached heights with the famous queen Cleopatra who tried to beguile Caesar
and Antony the Romans when they visited Egypt. Shakespeare too stressed the
role of cosmetic wrote, “Had Cleopatara’s nose been longer, the shape of the
world would have been different.” The women of the world fee inspired when
they have a mental feeling that they are looking good. Hence, the practice of
adornment or improvement of appearance continued unabated across the
countries. In modern days cosmetics are the rage and are considered to be
essential commodities of life. The role of cosmetics in everyday life met
greater acceptability after World War II. It was realized by social and medical
scientists that cosmetics not only adore but they exercise psychological effect
on users and especially on the skin. They keep the skin supple delaying the
onset of wrinkling. They are also helpful in skin infections and prevention of
sunburns.
In the last 3-4 decades the use of cosmetics has increased exponentially not
only among the females but also the male population. Hair dyes, powders,
creams are as popular with males as with females. Most countries have now
laws to control, manufacture, labeling, sale etc. of cosmetics in such a way that
use of cosmetics harmful to health is prevented. In India the Drugs Act 1940,
has been renamed as Drugs and Cosmetics Act in 1962 and contains some
sections to exercise control over the manufacture, sale and use of cosmetics.
The cosmetics in general are external preparations and are meant to be applied
to external parts of the body. In other words they may be applied to skin, hair
and nails for the purposes of covering, colouring, softening, cleansing,
nourishing, waving, setting, mollification, preservation, removal and
protection. All cosmetics are formulated as solids, semi-solids or liquids. Like
the drugs, the cosmetics are also manufactured based on certain standard
formula. The cosmetics may be classified into four main groups namely:
Classification of Cosmetics
Laquers
Powder Creams Lotion Colourants Dental preparations
Laquer
compacts removers Tooth
Skin lotions, powders
astringent lotion Nail
Polish Pastes
Vanishing creams, Lipsticks, dentifices
Cuticle
Cold creams, All Rouges
removers
purpose creams Mouth
washes and
gargles
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8.4 SKIN
The majority of the cosmetics are applied to the skin. Skin is the external cover
of the body and the beauty of the skin contributes to the over all beauty of the
body. Before studying about the cosmetics for skin let us have a brief
discussion and basic knowledge of the skin and its function and the anatomy of
the skin which is very much important to design cosmetics for skin. Skin is the
outermost and the heaviest single organ of the body. It protects the internal
organs as well as limits the passage of substances into and out of the body. It
has many other important roles like protecting the body, from external stimuli
like, chemical, heat, light, cold radiation etc. It regulates body temperature and
takes part in many biochemical functions. The pH of the skin varies from 4.0 to
5.6. The skin secretions like sweat and fatty acids influence the pH of the body.
This acidic pH restricts the growth of pathogens on body surface. The skin has
three mutually interdependent tissues i.e. stratified, vascular, cellular epidermis
and underlaying dermis of connective tissue.
(Diagram of skin)
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A. Epidermis: Epidermis consists of five layers and has a thickness of 0.006 Cosmaceuticals
to 0.8 mm. The different layers have different functions. (Fig.8.2)
ii) Stratum lucidum: It is present in the palm and foot and anatomically
distinct. It forms a thin translucent layer. The cells are non-nucleated.
iii) Stratum granulosum: It is present above Keratinocytes. They produce
the basic staining particles called keratinohyaline granules and it is
region of intense biochemical activity many morphological changes
takes place in this layer.
iv) Stratum spinosum: These cells are produced by morphological and
histochemical alteration of the cells of the basal layer as they move
upward. These are polygonal cells and called prickle cells as they are
interconnected by fine prickles. These links are responsible for integrity
of the epidermis.
v) Stratum germinativum: These cells are non nucleated, columnar. It
constantly renews the epidermis. These are connected by cytoplasmic
intercellular bridges. The epidermis is constantly renewed by the
mitosis of the basal cells. The basal cells include melanocytes which
produce and distribute melanin granules to the keratinocytes which is
required for pigmentation. The dermoepidermal junction is present
below the basal cell layer which is an anatomical functional unit.The
junction works as three functions of dermal-epidermal adherence,
mechanical support to the epidermis, control of the passage of cells and
large molecules across the junction.
B. Dermis: It is below the epidermis and above the subcutaneous tissue and
consists of the dense network of structural protein fibers i.e. collagen,
reticulum and elastin, embedded in the semigel matrix of
mucopolysaccaride. The thickness is 0.2 to 0.3cm.The gel structure
provides the elastic nature of the skin. The fibrous tissue opens up below
the dermis and merges with the fat containing subcutaneous tissue. 161
Pharmaceutics C. Subcutaneous Tissue: It is a fat rich areolar tissue, attaching the dermis to
the underlaying structures. This layer is quite elastic and large arteries and
veins are present in the superficial region.
SAQ 2
What is responsible for the elastic nature of the skin?
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The different types of cosmetics used for skin care are face powder, compact
face powder, body powder, skin colourants like lipsticks, rouge and various
body creams like moisturiors, vanishing cream, sun cream, cold cream,
cleansing cream, massage cream etc.
i) Face powders: Though these are called face powder but it is applied to
other parts of the body. Powders and compacts are one of the important
categories of skin care products. The body powders are also known as
dusting powder or talcum powder. Certain medicated powders are mixed
with active medicaments to prevent microbial growth on skin. Deodorant
powders and foot powders used for specific purposes. Face powders are
widely used for face and body care. These are very fine particles, shining
having absorbent property, adhere to skin and spreads over a large skin
surface area. These powders contain talc, colouring agents, perfumes etc. to
make the skin pleasant to look and touch and give smooth feeling. The
compact face powders are as same as face powders but made compact by
using a binding agent to form a loose cake. The powders used on body
surface should have good covering power and hide skin blemishes. It
should have good adherence, adsorbing property and keeps shining to give
an elegant look.
SAQ 3
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These are applied to skin on the face and lips and are called rouge and lipsticks.
Lipstick is used to impart an attractive colour and glossy and moist appearance
to the lips. These are basically dispersions of colouring matter in a base
consisting of a suitable blend of oils, fats and wax suitably perfumed and
blended. The rouge is defined as the cosmetic preparation used to give a
desired colour to the cheeks. The usual colours are pale pink, blue, red, reddish
brown etc. The colours or tint is achieved by adding iron oxides, organic
pigments, water soluble organic colours etc. The rouge usually contains zinc
state, rice starch, talk, pigments, and perfume, however different other
combinations of materials like zink oxide, lanolin, Magnesium carbonate, talc,
pigments and perfume are added as per the requirements. The rouge is
available in form of powders and creams. Few compositions of lipsticks and
rouge are also given in the appendix for an idea about the lipsticks and rouge.
Apart from the powders and colourants skin creams are also used to beautify
and care of the skin. The major classifications of the creams are vanishing
cream, cold cream and all purpose cream. The skin care creams can also be
classified based on their functions:
i) Cleansing creams
ii) Foundation and vanishing creams
iii) Massage creams or vitamin creams
iv) Body creams and all purpose general
v) Sunscreen creams
i) Cleansing creams
These are applied to remove facial make up, surface grime, soil, surface oil
and water mainly from the face and throat. The cleansing cream removes
the above materials and does not makes the skin dry like soap. Unlike soap 163
Pharmaceutics the cleansing cream readily removes the chemical substances adhering to
the skin but keeping the skin naturally moisturized. The differ ingredients
of a cleansing cream are mineral oil, isopropyl myristate, acetoglyceride,
petroleum jelly, bees wax, borax, water, preservatives and perfumes as
required.
These are the creams which disappear when applied and rubbed into the
skin. They provide emollient and protective action. The cream leaves a dry
and tacky residual film after application. The cream contains glycerine
which improves the consistency and good spreadability. The materials like
liquid paraffin, cocoa butter, almond oil are included to give pearliness to
skin. The ingredients of vanishing cream contains materials like searic acid,
cetyl alcohol, sorbitol syrup, propylene glycol, triehanolamine, glycerine,
water, preservatives and perfume as required. Each ingredient has its
cosmetic role to keep the skin natural.
These are the creams used for softness of the skin and keep it conditioned.
Materials like oil-water creams, glycerine, sorbitol, poleneglycol are used.
Material like agar, acacia, karagene also used in these creams. Mineral oil,
waxes, lanolin used as film formers and emollient in form of cream, jelly or
non aqueous type. It replaces the water loss and provides an oily film to
protect the skin. It keeps the skin smooth and soft but not greasy. The
materials used for body creams are isopropylmyristate, mineraloil,
stearicacid, emulsifyingwax, lanolin, glycerine, triethanolamine, water,
perfume and preservatives. These creams are also available as jellies and
the formula contains tragacanth, boric acid, glycerine, alcohol, water
perfume and preservatives.
Apart from the body creams there are few creams available which can be
used for all purpose or called sports cream. These are oily non-greasy and
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spreads easily. When applied in excess it acts as skin food or nourishing Cosmaceuticals
cream. The composition of these creams is such that it can act as
foundation cream, cleansing cream and also have emollient effect. The
materials used are wool alcohol, microcrystalline wax, mineral oil,
petroleum jelly, glycerine, magnesium sulphate, water, perfume, methyl
and propyl benzoate, butylated hydroxyl anisole.
v) Sunscreen preparations
The sun rays reaching the earth contain three types of rays visible, ultra
violet and infra red rays. Out of these rays the UV rays having a wave
length of 280 to 400 nm are harmful to the human skin. To protect against
these harmful rays the sun screen preparations are used. These preparations
protect the skin from the deleterious affect of UV rays of the sun light. In
skin the melanin content protects the skin from UV radiation. The sun
screen preparations absorb the light and scatter the light. It gives a
protective layer that prevents the UV rays to reach the skin either by
absorbing or by reflecting. There are materials which shows sun screen
effect are para aminobenzoic acid, its derivatives and glyceryl esters,
salicylates, cinnamic acid derivatives, tannic acid derivatives, few other
materials used are titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, kaolin, Calcium
carbonate.
SAQ 4
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Before going to cosmetics for hairs, let us have a brief discussion on hair. Hair
is a vital part of the body and an added attraction on head. They are known as
epidermal derivatives as they originate from the epidermis during 165
Pharmaceutics embryological development. It is an important component for the overall
appeal of the appearance and personality. Good and healthy hair on the head is
an attraction and beauty of the body.
However, hair has to be kept clean and maintained for good health. It requires
to clean the hair regularly with soap or shampoos, followed by conditioning
agent and hair lotion preparation. For beautification of the hair we use
shampoos, hair oils, hair waving devices or clips, hair tonics, hair removers,
various dyes and bleaching preparations.
Hair protects the scalp from ultra violet light, cushion round the scalp and
insulates the skull. It is on the eye brows to protect the eye from insects or
foreign particle. It guards the nostril and ear canal from dust. It helps in
evaporation of perspiration. It is also a part of sensory function. The hairs
present on the head are of importance from cosmetics point of view.
Hair preparations
a) Shampoos
SAQ 5
Write the materials used to prepare a shampoo. What are the different types of
shampoos?
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b) Hair colourants
A good hair on the head improves the over all beauty or personality of a
person. However when the hair turns grey it reflects the ageing of a person
and reduces the overall beauty of a person. Natural colour hairs improve
the personality. However the hair turns grey after certain age and to
maintain the colour hair colourants are necessary. Hair colours are used to
hide the grey hairs. Some times colours are used to change the hair colour
or improve the existing colour. A good hair dye or colour should have few
characteristic like nontoxic, stable, easy to apply and should give a natural
gloss. There are temporary colourants, semipermanent colorants, permanent
colorants and bleaches. Various shades like blue, pink, light golden colour
of hair can be produced by using different hair dyes. There are vegetable
colorants like henna ringe which contains dried powdered leaves of
lawsonia alba, lawsonia spinosa, lawsonia inemis. These colours are
available in different forms as powders, henna ringe etc. Few examples are
given below for an idea about hair colours:
d) Shaving preparations
After the shaving the after shave lotion is used to prevent sepsis and gives a
feel of freshness called after shave. These preparations give a pleasant cool
feeling after the shave. It contains sprit, glycerine, cetrimide, water,
perfume. In few cases these are also applied in form of a cream. The
contents are same kept in a creamy base. The lotions are clear solutions
containing 25-50% alcohol and additionally contain antiseptics,
haemostyptic substances. One example of after shave is given in the
appendix for an understanding.
Before we discuss the cosmetics for nail, let us have an idea about nails. Nails
are formed at the dorsal surface as a protective cover of the tips of the finger
and toes. The nail functions as a protective to the exposed tips of the fingers
and toes. This helps to limit their distortion when they are subjected to different
mechanical stress. The natural colour of the nail is pinkish due to the presence
of underlaying blood vessels. The nail should receive regular care to maintain
its beauty. The nail is another part of body which enhances the beauty. The nail
should get regular care to maintain it. Apart from mending the nails in regular
intervals the nail care preparations should be used for beautification of the
nails.
The various preparations of nail care are nail polish or lacquers, removers, nail
creams, cuticle softeners and removers, nail whiteners and bleaches. The
materials used are nail polish, thinner, remover, nail creams etc .The lacquers
are the most widely used nail cosmetic. The product can vary from transparent
uncoloured to pink, metallic and many more shades of attraction. These are
also known as nail enamel or nail varnish. These materials give very good look
and should be glossy. These should be non-toxic and quick drying nature and
easy to apply with good adherence property and long lasting. The nail lacquers
contain materials like film formers, resins, solvents diluents and plasticizers,
colours, perfumes, pearlscent pigments etc. The lacquer removers are required
to remove the old lacquers to put new or to change the colour. These are also
called nail cleansers and it contains solvents like acetone, ethyl acetate, amyl
acetate, toluene along with some fatting agents. Nail creams are the agents
which protect the nail from brittleness. The composition of nail creams are
lanolin, beeswax, petroleum jelly, perfume and these agents give emollient
effect and retain the moisture to give a good shiny appearance. The cuticle is
the thin fold of skin which extend over the lunula at the base of the nail and
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due to its irregular growth it looks unpleasant. There are preparation known as
cuticle removers, which may be an vegetable oil or fatty acid esters. These Cosmaceuticals
agents loosen the cuticle and remove it. The materials used are lanolin, bees
wax, petroleum jelly and perfume. The composition of lotions used to remove
cuticle are alcohol, diethyl phthalate, water, perfume, preservative, steryl
dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride. The agents used to whiten the nail at the
edge are called nail whiteners and contain titanium oxide, petroleum jelly and
bees wax. The preparations used to remove different stains and discoloration,
ink, tobacco, vegetable stains are called nail bleaches. It contains hydrogen
peroxide, ammonia, rose water, preservatives. Few example of the formula for
nail cream and lacquers are given in the appendix for an idea about them:
Maintenance of shining teeth is very much essential. The products used for
cleaning the teeth and oral cavity are called dentrifices which include tooth
paste and tooth powder. Apart from cleaning the tooth these agents prevent
formation of calculus, dental plaque, tooth decay, reduce mouth odour and
restore freshness of mouth.
The tooth cleansing agent when in a paste form is called tooth paste and when
in powder form it is tooth powder. The ingredients also vary accordingly.
SAQ 6
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Pharmaceutics …………………………………………………………………………………...
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As the nomenclature says these are the preparations used to wash the mouth
and throat. These are the agents used to clean the oral cavity and throat and to
prevent microbial infection in this area and to reduce the microbial population
producing bad odour. It is also used to treat against mouth and throat
infections. The materials used in these formulations are antibacterial
substances, antiseptics, astringents, deodourising agents, surfactants,
sweeteners, vehicle, colours and flavours. The antimicrobials may be phenol
and its derivatives, hexachlorophene, quaternary ammonium compounds,
thymol, salicylic acid, formalin, boric acid, tannic acid etc. These preparations
gives freshness to the mouth and contain good flavours to give good mouth
odour. It may contain menthol to give a cool feeling to the user. Few
illustrative formulas are given for a better understanding about these
preparations.
SAQ 7
Write down the different ingredients used in the mouth wash and their role.
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8.8 SUMMARY
Peach like finish : The face powders can give skin a peach
like finish if more rice starch is added to the
powder composition.
Hair setting lotion : These are agents which form an elastic film
after application and keep the hair firmly
positioned. It contains tragacanth, alcohol,
glycerine, water and perfume.
1. Cosmetics are the substances used to improve the appearance and add to
the beauty and personality of a person. The broad classification of the
cosmetics is cosmetics for the skin, cosmetics for hair, cosmetics for nails,
cosmetics for tooth and oral hygiene.
2. The dermis present below the epidermis and above the subcutaneous tissue
and consists of the dense network of structural protein fibers i.e. collagen,
reticulum and elastin, embedded in the semigel matrix of
mucopolysaccaride. The thickness is 0.2 to 0.3cm.This gel structure
provides the elastic nature of the skin.
3. Face powders are widely used for face and body care. These are very fine
particles, shining having absorbent property, adhere to skin and spreads
over a large skin surface area. These powders contain talc, colouring
agents, perfumes etc. to make the skin pleasant to look and touch and give
smooth feeling.
4. These creams are applied for preservation of normal skin and to
supplement food and vitamin like A,D,E including linoleic acid,
aracchidonic acid etc. Mineral oil forms the bulk of the cream. This type of
cream is normally applied during night, the time assigned to skin feeding.
Hence these are called night cream. It has emollient action and prevents
water loss and supplements water loss by presence of humactant materials
in the formula. When vitamins are added to the formula these are called
vitamin creams. The different materials included in this cream are mineral
oil, petroleum jelly, white bees wax, paraffin wax, lanolin, borax, water,
perfume, preservatives and antioxidants. This cream is easy to apply but
not to be rubbed. The stresses due to environmental cause changes or
damage to the skin. These creams help to maintain the normal skin by
reversals of the damage.
6. The materials widely used in the tooth paste are calcium carbonate,
tricalcium phosphate, aluminium sulphate, magnesium trisilicate, dicalcium
phosphate as polishing materials along with soap as foaming agent. The
role of calcium carbonate is to polish the tooth.
Terminal Questions
1. Cosmetics are the products used to beautify oneself and it is used since
time immemorial. Refer history of cosmetics.
3. Dental care products are the substances used for cleaning the teeth and for a
good breathe. Refer 8.7.
4. The skin care products improve the texture of the skin and gives a shining
look. It also protects the skin from drying and gives a protection against
hazardous materials like irritants. Refer 8.4.
5. These are the products which groom the hair and condition it. The hair
colours give the desired colour of the hair. Refer 8.5.
SUGGESTED READINGS
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Pharmaceutics
APPENDIX A
Composition-I
Composition-II
Talc 63.0gm
Kaolin 20.0gm
Calcium Carbonate (light) 5.0gm
Zinc Oxide 5.0gm
Zinc Stearate 5.0gm
Magnesium carbonate 1.0gm
Colour 0.5gm
Perfumes 0.5gm
Composition of lipstick-I
Beeswax 16.0gm
Petrolatum (short fiber) 4.0gm
Castor oil (semi hydrogenated) 54.0gm
Paraffin oil 11.0gm
Lanolin (light) 5.0gm
Lakes 10.0gm
Perfumes Quantity sufficient
1) Powder shampoos
2) Liquid Shampoo
Gel shampoo
4) Oil Shampoo
Henna rinse
Shaving cream
Glycerine 2 gms
Chlorohexidene diacetate 0.2 gm
Menthol 0.1 gm
Alcohol 40 gms
Water 53.1 gms
Perfume quantity sufficient
NAIL COSMETICS
Lacquers
Nitrocellulose 16gms
Resin 9 gms
Plasticizers 4.8 gms
Solvent 60.5 gms
Colour 0.5 gms
Perfume quantity sufficient
Nail cream
DENTAL PRODUCTS
Tooth Paste
Calcium carbonate 56 gms
Sodium lauryl sulphate 1 gm
Glyserine 22 gms
Gum tragacanth 1.5 gm
Water 19.5 gm
Saccarine 0.1 gm
Flavour quantity sufficient
Preservative quantity sufficient
TOOTH POWDER
The formula of one tooth powder:
Calcium carbonate 76.0gms
Kaolin 11.9gms
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate 2.0 gms
Powdered pumice 10.0 gms
Saccarine sodium 0.1 gms
Flavour quantity sufficient
Colour quantity sufficient
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Water 74.60 gms