Specific Guidelines For Glazing
Specific Guidelines For Glazing
Specific Guidelines For Glazing
COMPATIBILITY
The compatibility of materials is essential to the long-term performance of any glazing installation. Chemical reaction from
physical contact or close proximity exposure to incompatible materials can occur. Less frequently, volatile elements given off by
one material can adversely affect other materials within the closed confines of the glazing rabbet. Fillers, plasticizers, oils or other
elements or compounds may leech out of sealants, gaskets, spacer shims, jamb blocks or setting blocks and potentially may have
deleterious effects on the sealants, adhesives or coatings of fabricated glazing products. Some of these elements or compounds
act alone, while others act with moisture, heat and/or other elements or compounds.
Sealant manufacturers generally are willing to conduct compatibility tests in their laboratories and to give the results in writing.
This is extremely important with structural silicone glazing.
Insulating glass, laminated glass and opacified spandrel glass require special attention. Insulating glass units are fabricated
with a variety of sealants, which vary from fabricator to fabricator. Laminated glass is fabricated with polyvinyl butyral (PVB),
cured resin, or other interlayer materials. Opacified spandrel glass is fabricated with opacifying film and adhesive, which may vary
from fabricator to fabricator. Sealants and gaskets installed in glazing areas must be compatible with the fabricated product as well
as with the other materials used in the glazing operation. These materials include the following:
1. Sash joinery sealant 7. Spacer Shims
2. Exterior glazing sealant (weather seal) 8. Setting Blocks
3. Interior glazing sealant 9. Edge Blocks
4. Heel or toe bead 10. Opacifiers
5. Structural silicone sealant 11. Insulation
6 Glazing tapes 12. Cleaning Materials
When wood sash and framing materials are used, all wood preservatives must be dried out to reduce the opportunity for the wood
preservatives to create an incompatibility with the insulating glass unit sealants, which could result in premature seal failure.
Compatibility should always be a concern and should never be assumed. ASTM procedures C 510 Standard Test Method for
Staining and Color Change of Single- or Multicomponent Joint Sealants, C 794 Standard Test Method for Adhesion-in-Peel of
Elastomeric Joint Sealants, C 864 Standard Specification for Dense Elastomeric Compression Seal Gaskets, Setting Blocks,
and Spacers, and C 1087 Standard Test Method for Determining Compatibility of Liquid-Applied Sealants with Accessories
Used in Structural Glazing Systems are good starting points for guidance.
GLASS SETTING
When the glass is set, sufficient pressure must be placed against the glass, as it is lowered onto the setting blocks to properly
place the gasket or tape under pressure or compression. This should properly position the glass on the setting blocks. Uneven
or point pressures on glass can result from improper positioning of the glass on the setting blocks. The pressure-producing
glazing material should immediately be inserted to maintain the pressure.
Proper glass setting is typified by the example of a wet/dry glazing method having pre-shimmed tape for the weather seal and
a hard rubber wedge as the pressure-producing member, see Figure 19, page 69. The glass should be pushed firmly against the
tape across the sill while held with cups, up off the setting blocks about 1/32" (0.8 mm); the wedge should then be inserted the full
width of the sill before the glass is allowed to settle onto the setting blocks. If this procedure is not practical, ease the glass onto
the setting blocks while firmly pushing outward against the tape, insert the wedge the full width of the sill, then lift the glass off
the setting block about 1/16" (1.6 mm) and ease it down again. Short, temporary pieces of wedge material should be used with
caution when the fit of all components is extremely tight; excessive point pressure can readily cause glass breakage. If the proper
pressure is not achieved initially, or is not maintained, the result can be an insufficient weather seal and/or point pressure on the
glass at the setting blocks.
WET GLAZING
GENERAL
Wet glazing materials can be classified into three general types:
1. Pre-formed tape
2. Gunable elastomeric sealants
a. Non-curing
b. Curing
3. Putty and glazing compounds
Lateral shims are normally required with wet glazing materials to center the glass in the opening and to hold the glass in position when
subjected to wind load, vibration or building movement. A typical wet glazing installation is shown in Figure 19, page 69.
SPACER SHIMS
Spacer shims center the glass within the glazing rabbet, between the stops. They are either intermittent or continuous and provide for
a consistent gap between the glass and the sash. They control face clearance, dimension A, Figure 9, page 60.
Intermittent shims should be spaced uniformly at 18" (457 mm) to 24" (610 mm) centers. The length of the shims may vary. The
minimum shim length should be 6" (152 mm). Improper placement or sizing of shims can create pressure points on the glass, which may
lead to breakage. Positioning should start at the setting blocks and proceed equally, both left and right, so shims on opposite jambs are
opposite each other. If the glazing system is wet glazed both inside and outside, the inside and outside shims should be exactly the same
dimensions and exactly opposite each other.
Continuous shims are preferable in that they provide a uniform cushion around the perimeter of the glass and save the labor of
separately and properly positioning individual shims. Pre-formed tape with an integral continuous shim has proven to be highly
acceptable in tape glazed systems. Elastic hybrid tapes, which do not require an integral shim, are also acceptable for compression
glazing; they are not to be confused with non-elastic, unshimmed tapes.
The hardness range of shims varies according to the requirements of various glass manufacturers. Typically, 40 to 60 Shore A
durometer hardness is recommended, but the glass manufacturer should be consulted for its recommendations for specific projects.
DRY GLAZING
Dry glazing is the common designation for systems utilizing extruded rubber gaskets as one or both of the glazing seals. Their
popularity has grown in recent years because their performance is not as affected by installation, weather, workmanship and compatibility
issues as with wet glazing systems. Dry glazing is also known as compression gasket glazing systems.
Two basic rubber gasket types are employed in compression gasket glazing systems: 1) Soft, closed cell gasket, and 2) Firm dense
gasket. A particular glazing system may use only one type of gasket on both sides of the glass (dense/dense) or may use a combination
of the two (soft/dense). Gaskets need some way of preventing disengagement. They may use an integral dart, a locking nub, or an
adhesive material to prevent disengagement. When using gaskets with an integral dart or locking nub, check with the gasket and metal
manufacturers to verify fit and tolerances.
Gaskets are generally neoprene, EPDM, or silicone rubber composition. By careful sizing of the gaskets, with proper consideration
given to the plus and minus tolerances of glass, metal and rubber, the softer member will compress 25% to 40% and form a weather tight
seal when the dense gasket is in place.
Figure 19
Typical Wet & Dry Glazing Systems
The corners of the soft gasket are frequently molded or vulcanized (if not, they should be sealed at the corners), thus forming a
continuous, joint-free glazing material around all sides of the glazing rabbet. A weep system is essential with any compression gasket
glazing system.
Gaskets should always be fabricated or cut slightly longer than the opening they are to fit (known as crowding). This is to account
for the natural relaxing of the gasket material that may occur after installation. Some gaskets, depending on the type of material, may
shrink. Consult the gasket manufacturer for shrink rates, if applicable, and guidelines on gasket sizing (crowd factor).
Installation of the soft gasket should begin from two adjacent corners of the opening and two or three inches of gasket should be
pressed into place at each corner. Next, two or three inches of the gasket at its center should be pressed into place at the midpoint
between corners. If the opening dimension is large, repeat the process at the quarter points. Then insert the balance of the gasket,
working from two already inserted points toward each other. This procedure will distribute the excess of the gasket equally and will
forestall any tendency to stretch the gasket. If the glass is not positioned properly on the setting blocks, starting installation of the
wedge at the corners, as most gasket manufacturers recommend, can cause severe bending stress on the glass. This can cause
immediate or later glass breakage. See the suggested procedure under Glass Setting, page 67.
Figure 20
Typical Wet/Dry Glazing System
CAP BEADS
Cap beads are generally applied around the exterior perimeter of the glazing. Their purpose is to make the glazing water-tight/
weather-tight. They may be a part of the original installation or may be a post-installation corrective remedy. Attributes of a good
cap bead are as follows:
a. They are of sufficient resiliency to absorb the expected differential movement between glass and framing without failure.
b. They achieve good adhesion to both substrates.
c. They are compatible with, but do not adhere to, the backer material.
d. They have a width-to-depth ratio of 2 or greater, depending on the elongation/compression characteristic of the sealant.
e. They have a watershed.
See Figure 21 for an example of a good cap bead.
Figure 21
Example of Good Cap Bead
Pressure glazed systems derive their name from the fact that the pressure or compression required to achieve weather tightness is
mechanically applied by a wrench or screwdriver.
Figure 22 shows a typical system with a screwed-on exterior pressure plate. Neoprene, EPDM or other synthetic rubbers are
typically used as the exterior weather seal. Excessive torque of the pressure plate bolts may cause harmful stress on the glass edge. A
continuous isolator is used to control compression on the glass and to provide control of water at the horizontal rail. Inadequate
torque on the pressure plate bolts may result in possible air and water leakage. Refer to the manufacturer’s installation instructions
for the proper pressure plate torque requirements, if applicable.
Thermal Isolator
Figure 22
Pressure Glazed System
With a pressure plate system, the screws at the setting blocks should be run up first, then at the quarter points of the jambs so
pressure is applied evenly to opposing edges of the glass. Gaskets should contact the glass 1/8" (3 mm) or more from the glass
edge; contact at or near the glass edge can induce chipping. Review the “Glass Setting,” page 67, in this chapter.
Many dry or wet/dry systems, as in Figures 19 and 20 (pages 69 and 70) are also considered as pressure glazed systems
because the dense wedge gasket exerts pressure through the glass to compress the weather seal, thus making the glazing
resistant to water penetration.
BUTT-JOINT GLAZING
Butt-Joint Glazing is a method of installing glass to provide wide horizontal areas of vision without the interruption of vertical
framing members. It utilizes a conventional (captured) approach to the head and sill glazing, using metal or wood retaining
members with wet, dry or wet/dry sealants. However, the vertical glass edges are spaced slightly apart and sealed with a silicone
sealant. The sealant serves only as a weather stop at the vertical joints; therefore, this vertical glass and sealant joint cannot be
considered to be structural. In some interior applications in which sealants are not used between adjoining lites, clips, fittings or
buttons are used to maintain the adjacent lites in the same plane to avoid the potential for pinching of fingers.
The design and execution of a satisfactory butt-joint glazing installation requires more attention to detail at every stage than
does a conventional system with vertical framing members. The glass is supported on only two edges (usually head and sill);
design load charts for four-edge support are not valid. Glass deflection and stress under design load will be substantially greater
for two-edge supported glass than glass of the same thickness and size supported on four edges. Deflection and glass stressing
under design load is substantially greater than with four edges supported. The design professional must consider glass strength,
deflection, and potential glass edge pullout. Typically, a minimum of 3/8^ (10 mm) thick glass is recommend for butt-joint glazing
applications. Thicker glass will reduce deflection.
GANA Glazing Manual - 71 2004
Heat-treating will not reduce glass deflection (see Section II, Heat-Treated Glass, page 10). The inherent warp of heat-treated
glass can complicate the achievement of a neat vertical silicone joint.
See Section 11 of the GANA Tempering Division Engineering Standards Manual for additional information regarding height
and thickness recommendations for fully tempered interior butt glazed fixed glass panels.
Precise leveling of the sill member is necessary, and provision must be made at the head for deflection of the structure. The
vertical glass edges should be ground with a slight arris and should be polished for most acceptable aesthetics.
Insulating glass is not suitable for butt-joint glazing. When the glass deflects, the sealants are placed in extreme shear along
the unsupported edge between the glass and spacer. Typically, insulating glass manufacturers do not warrant their products in
this application. Glass-clad polycarbonates and all plastic laminates are not suitable for butt-joint glazing due to the expansion
and contraction rate of the materials.
Most cured clear silicone sealants have (or develop) a cloudy, translucent appearance. Even with proper application and
tooling, clear silicone sealant in a butt joint may develop bubbles. This is more likely in butt joints between glass thicker than
3/8 (10 mm). To avoid the appearance of bubbles, use opaque colored (black, bronze, etc.) silicones.
Most building codes do not provide specifically for the use of two-edge glass support systems; therefore, these must be
engineered. It is the responsibility of the design professional to call to the attention of code officials the use of two-edge
supported glass and to secure the necessary approvals. A typical butt-joint is shown in Figure 23.
Figure 23
Butt-Joint Glazing
Glass and sealant manufacturers’ recommendations for edge treatment and edge quality of the glass, specific sealant, use of primers,
and construction (sealing) of the butt-joint must be followed exactly. Recommended joint widths are listed in Table 13.
Butt-joint glazing should not be confused with structural silicone glazing. Both have the same exterior appearance, but
structural silicone glazing has an interior vertical mullion to which the glass is adhered.
b) Four Sided Structural - Glass with four sides structurally adhered to metal
back-up mullion.
c) Two-Sided Structural Strip Window - Glass with two sides structurally adhered d) Vertical Strip Window -
to metal back-up vertical mullion and two sides captured in horizontal pocket. Glass with two sides struc-turally
adhered to metal back-up
horizontal mullion and two sides
captured in vertical pocket.
Figure 24 (a-d)
Structural Silicone Glazing
Typical Configurations
FIGURE26
Structural Silicone Glazing
Typical Horizontal Mullion for Four-Sided Systems
Figure 28
Structural Silicone Glazing
Figure 29
Structural Silicone Glazed Purlin
For safety reasons, workers must not be permitted to walk on or to put their weight on sloping glass to set added lites into place
or to apply glazing caps or sealants. The work should always be done from a secured temporary platform. The platform should
not touch the glass. The above also applies to maintenance personnel.
See also, Section VI, Design Considerations, Sloped Glazing, page 44. For additional information on “Cap Beads,” see page 70.
For further information, refer to the AAMA publication GDSG-1, Glass Design for Sloped Glazing.
BENT GLASS
Bent glass is frequently used as the transition lite from sloped to vertical glazing. As such, it can also be involved in the
structural silicone glazing previously discussed in two sections of this chapter.
HANDLING
Bent glass requires installers to exercise a higher level of care when handling the glass than when handling flat glass. The
center of gravity changes when glass is bent, which generally necessitates the use of more manpower to carry or set bent glass
than when handling a lite of flat glass of similar size and thickness.
Slings or power vacuum cups of a sufficient diameter and depth to produce a tight seal against the glass surface should be
used to handle larger bent lites.
GANA Glazing Manual - 77 2004
TOLERANCES
Bent glass requires extra care and planning. The curved eaves of a sunroom or the vertical corner of a building may consist of
as many as three lites of bent glass and four or more bent aluminum shapes. Accumulated tolerances can cause a slight misfit,
which in turn can cause a pressure point on the glass, which might initiate glass breakage.
The tolerances generally observed in bent architectural glass and the curved framing system are generally plus or minus one-
eighth inch (+/- 1/8") (3 mm), for each radius.
GLAZING OPERATIONS
When bent glass is installed with the curve running vertically, i.e., such as the rounded corner of a building, three setting
blocks should be used instead of the usual two. There should be the usual ones at the quarter points plus the added one at the
mid-point of the curve. The blocks should be of a length comparable to those used in the setting of a flat lite of glass and should
be notched in several places to allow them to be bent to the same curvature as the glass.
When the bent glass is installed with the curve running horizontally, as the eaves at the transition of a slope to the vertical, the
setting and edge blocks as specified for flat glass are recommended.
The accumulation of tolerances in bent glass and curved aluminum extrusions requires special consideration in selection of
glazing stops and gasket materials. The glazing rabbet must be sufficiently wide to allow for the attachment of the glass stop
without placing stress on the glass. Stresses are additive; a pressure point created by glazing, with thermal, wind or snow loads
added later, can cause spontaneous breakage in the future. Generally the use of intermittent spacers, backer rod and wet seals are
recommended to minimize stress placed on the glass at the glazing stops. A nominal 3/8 (10 mm) or greater face clearance (see
dimension “A”, Figure 9, page 60), both interior and exterior, is necessary to allow for tolerances of the glass and framing.
Precaution should be taken when installing heat-treated glass. Damage to the edges and surfaces of the glass may be the cause
of future breakage of the lite. Due to the extreme compression found in fully tempered glass, the lite may not remain in the opening
when breakage does occur, and it will be difficult to determine the break origin.
Annealed laminated glass, as noted in the following section, deserves special care in any glazing application. Bent annealed
laminated glass, because of tolerances and other considerations, is more vulnerable to pressure breakage and, therefore, should
be installed into a wet glazing system. The use of glazing systems that utilize wet glazing and an applied stop as retainment offer
an added measure of adjustment.
Because of tolerance differences, it is essential to provide for some flexibility in the glazing system to avoid creating stresses
on the glass. These differences call for early recognition of such problems before the glazing proceeds. Early recognition of
tolerance-created problems is essential to prevent glass breakage later. Good supervision by experienced persons is essential at
the start of each installation.
The bending of architectural glass and aluminum is an important service to the glass and glazing industry. As happens in all
specialized fields, terminology unique to the bending industry has developed over the years. Additionally, many common terms
take on different meanings when used in reference to glass and metal bending.
To assist in understanding bent glass and metal and to accurately describe a project, the following is a glossary of bending
terms.
The dimension of an imaginary straight line connecting the end points of The straight edge dimension or measurement of a lite of glass as opposed
a curve or arc. Sometimes referred to as the “point to point” dimension to the girth dimension or measurement. Could also be referred to as the
or measurement. WIDTH if the lite is installed in an overhead application
CIRCUMFERENCE
POINT OF TANGENCY
COMPOUNDCURVE
RADIUS
CONCAVE
RISE
When viewed from the exterior, the curve bends away from the observer.
In geometric terms, the rise is known as the height of the arc. While not
critical when adequate information is submitted, the rise or height of the
CONVEX arc, when used in conjunction with the chord dimension, can be used to
calculate an unknown radius and girth.
When viewed from the exterior, the curve bends towards the observer.
SERPENTINECURVE
DEGREE
A condition having concave (R1) and convex (R2) curves in the same
plane.
Every circle regardless of radius contains 360 degrees of arc or curvature.
The girth or arc length of curved glass or aluminum can be determined
when the “degree of arc” is given.
TANGENT
GIRTH
A straight line coming out of an arc or curve. Sometimes referred to as a
straight leg.
The length of the curve or arc required. The dimension or measurement
of the material required if viewed in a “stretched-out” or “flattened”
state. The longer girth should be specified.
HEAT-TREATED GLASS
The surfaces of heat-strengthened and fully tempered glass are in a state of high compression; therefore, edge or surface
damage is more likely to be the cause of spontaneous breakage. In the case of fully tempered glass, frequently there is not enough
glass remaining in the opening to define the break origin.
Every precaution should be taken to ensure that no damage occurs to the lite during transportation, handling or installation.
Permissible bow and warp can be substantial on large lites. Consideration of this condition may require extra face clearance.
See dimension A, Table 12, page 60. Review Section IX, Glazing Operations, subsection E, Installation of Glass, on page 64. (Also
see Table 3, page 27, Overall Bow Allowance.)
Figure 30
Wrap-Around Glazing
(Marine Glazing)
INTERIOR GLAZING
GENERALGUIDELINES
1. Most interior glazed openings, which are not exposed to the weather, do not require a watertight or airtight glazing system.
2. Glazing practice in these openings requires proper edge clearances, setting blocks and a design to minimize glass rattle.
3. Setting block location and length per block should follow the parameters shown on page 61 of this Manual with the exception
that for glass 1/4" (6 mm) or less in thickness in which both the glass width and height are 48" (1219 mm) or less, the setting
block length per block may be 2" (50 mm) in length rather than the 4" (100 mm) minimum length required elsewhere.
4. State and local building codes and federal safety glazing laws apply to interior glazing as well as to exterior glazing.
5. Building code requirements on minimum loads on interior walls should be considered along with loads supplied by the design
professional for the specific glazing application. ASCE 7 specifies a minimum of 10 psf (.48 kPa) for interior walls.
MIRROR INSTALLATION
A number of options are available to mount an unframed mirror securely and attractively on a wall. The choice of the most
acceptable technique will depend on the type of wall construction, location and other factors.
INSTALLATION OPTIONS
Mastics
Mastics should be applied per the manufacturer’s recommendations. Failure to do so may affect the manufacturer’s warranty.
The mastic must be compatible with the mirror backing and the wall. Make certain the wall is clean and free of any loose wallpaper.
New walls should be prime painted and sealed. The mirror should be installed so that air is allowed to circulate vertically. Support
the bottom of the mirror with clips or a “J” channel. The top of the mirror should also be supported by clips. Mastic should not be
the sole weight carrying support of the mirror.
Double Faced Tape
Tape should be applied per the manufacturer’s instructions. The tape must be compatible with the mirror backing and capable
of bonding permanently to the wall. The wall must be clean and free from any loose wallpaper. The tape should be at least 1/8 (3
mm) thick. It should be applied vertically to the wall. Clip the top of the tape to a point to prevent water condensation collection
on the upper edge of the tape. A tape with an adhesive capability of two (2) pounds per square inch of tape is recommended.
Sufficient tape surface area should be used to meet necessary support requirements. The bottom of the mirror should be supported
with a “J” channel or clips. The top of the mirror should also be supported by clips. Under no circumstances should double face
tape be used as the only source of attachment in mounting a mirror to a vertical wall or substrate. Variations in temperature,
climatic condition, or age could cause a release of the tape from either the mirror or the substrate.
Skeleton Wood Back
Since wood strips fastened to a wall can be shimmed to bridge irregularities in the wall, this method offers the best possibility
of getting a near perfect plumb and in-plane installation in adverse situations. Nominal 1 x 2 (25 mm x 50 mm) lumber is usually
adequate. The wood should be prime painted before mounting on the wall to eliminate interactions between resins in the wood
and the mirror backing. After the skeleton is installed, any of the following mirror mounting methods may be used successfully.
Channel and Clips
A continuous “J” channel anchored securely and in plane with the skeleton back should be used to support the bottom of the
mirror. Clips should be used to support the top and/or sides of the mirror. Two 1/8 (3 mm) x 4 (100 mm) setting blocks should be
in the channel at the quarter points and two 1/4 (6 mm) weep holes drilled in between the blocks.
Rosettes and Screws
The use of rosettes and screws is the most intricate method of mounting a mirror directly on a wall. Extra care is required in this
installation method because holes and cutouts weaken the integrity of the mirror.
Mirrors up to ten (10) square feet (1 m2) are generally mounted by the hole in each of the four corners. Over ten (10) square feet,
holes are advised on approximately 36 (914 mm) centers. All holes should be at least 4 (100 mm) from an edge. If the wall is
irregular and the screw or rosette is over tightened, it could crack the mirror at the hole. Holes in the mirror should be at least 1/8
(3 mm) larger than the shank of the screw in order to accommodate a plastic or rubber sleeve over the screw. A felt or plastic
cushion should be used between the rosette and the mirror.
Metal Frames
Metal framed mirrors seldom offer mounting problems because the frame provides adequate support and edge protection.
GENERAL PRECAUTIONS
General precautions to take while installing mirrors include the following:
1. Mirrors should always be installed plumb and in line to prevent distorting reflected images.
2. Never install mirrors on new plaster, new masonry, unsealed wood or plywood, or on a freshly painted wall. Do not install
mirrors where airborne solvents, heavy-duty cleaners, etc. are in the air.
3. In humid climates, do not install mirrors until air conditioning is operating.
4. Always allow for air space behind a mirror installation to provide for ventilation for the mirror backing. Trapped moisture
can deteriorate backing with time.
5. Never install mirrors in conditions that would allow for puddling of liquids on the bottom edge. Raise the mirror slightly
off of back splashes, cabinet or vanity tops, etc.
TYPES OF ENTRANCES
Figure 31, below, shows typical fully tempered heavy glass entrances:
Figure 31
Typical Entrances
TYPES OF DOORS
Common styles of fully tempered heavy glass doors are shown below in Figure 32.
Figure 32
Common Styles of Fully Tempered Heavy Glass Doors
TYPE OF GLASS
Glass in fully tempered heavy glass doors and entrances is clear or tinted monolithic tempered float glass meeting ASTM C
1048, Kind FT. Typical clear float glass thicknesses used include: 3/8 (10 mm); 1/2 (12 mm); 5/8 (16 mm); and 3/4 (19 mm). Tinted
float glass thicknesses include 3/8 (10 mm) and 1/2 (12 mm).
Patches
Figure 34, below, shows common small profile patch types. Many other possible entrance configurations may be obtained by
using other patch types (not shown).
Figure 34
Common Patch Types
Figure 35
Center Hung Pivot
Figure 36
Offset Pivot
Note: Pivot location dimensions shown are standard. Other options may be available for specialized applications.
Closers
The function of door closers is to control a door during its opening and closing cycle. They may be overhead or floor mounted and
either exposed or concealed. Varying spring sizes are available to increase or decrease opening and closing forces. Other optional
features may control the hold open position, delayed action closing, positive stops, or electric integration with fire or security systems.
Concealed Overhead Closers (C.O.C.) typically are housed in a tube or channel above the door. They are used for light to
medium size and weight doors.
Locks
Most fully tempered heavy glass doors are secured using a dead bolt lock with standard keyed cylinders and/or thumbturns.
Both types can be mounted into a door rail or a patch fitting. They are typically mounted on the bottom of the door with the bolts
securing into a strike plate or threshold. If a round throw bolt is used, a covered “dust proof” strike can be used to prevent dirt
accumulation in the strike area.
Occasionally, it is desirable to have the lock located on the edge of the door to strike into the jamb of the opening. A center lock
housing is mounted on the door at handle height to accommodate the lock. The strike plate can be mounted in a strike housing
installed on the adjacent sidelite or into a strike mounted in the door jamb. Electric locks and strikes, both drop bolt and magnetic,
can be installed on all glass doors. Exit devices can be installed on fully tempered heavy glass doors engaging in top, bottom and/
or jamb of the opening.
Handles
A variety of shapes and styles of handles may be used on fully tempered heavy glass doors. The most common are one-inch
diameter metal pull handles attached through holes in the glass. Pulls can be vertical or horizontal, straight or offset. Handles are
available to match the metal finish on the door.
TYPICAL METAL FINISHES FOR HARDWARE
In addition to the metal finishes listed in Table 14 below, other finishes are also available. Consult manufacturer.
Figure 37 Figure 38
Factory Applied Rails Field Applied Rails
*NOTE: See Section 11 of the GANA Tempering Division Engineering Standards Manual for additional information regarding height and
thickness recommendations for fully tempered interior butt glazed fixed glass panels.
DESIGN/INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS
All fully tempered heavy glass entrance systems require proper installation to assure optimum performance and long life.
Performance is dependent upon proper and adequate attachment to the adjoining perimeter framing or structure. Care should be
taken to insure that any headers, jamb tubes, channels, etc. are sufficiently anchored to a building load carrying structural member
in a manner appropriate to the specific site conditions.
Framing systems for animal enclosures must incorporate a weep system. Laminated glazing materials in these applications are
frequently cleaned with high-pressure water hoses, which can result in moisture accumulation in the glazing channel. The weep
system must ensure that any water that enters the glazing system will be drained. Prolonged exposure to moisture vapor in the
glazing channel will result in premature delamination of the laminated glazing material.
Plastic sheet has a relatively high rate of water vapor transmission, and accordingly is not recommended for use as one (or
both) lite of an insulating glass unit.
While most acrylic and polycarbonate sheets are classed as safety glazing materials, consult the manufacturer to confirm
compliance with the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) Z97.1 Performance Specifications and Methods of Test for
Safety Glazing Materials Used in Buildings and the state and local building codes. They are exempt from compliance with
Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) 16 CFR 1201 Safety Standard for Architectural Glazing Materials because the
federal standard applies only to glass.
The glazing characteristics of these plastics are substantially different from those of glass. Particular attention must be paid to
expansion and contraction, adhesion and compatibility with glazing materials, preparation of the glazing rabbet and deflection.
The modulus of elasticity of polycarbonate is 345,000 psi and glass is 10,400,000 psi. If polycarbonate and glass of the same size
and thickness are subjected to identical uniform loads, the deflection of the polycarbonate will be approximately 30 times that of
the glass.
The following general recommendations should always be compared and supplemented with the latest information available
from manufacturers.
1. Plastic sheets or panels should be installed in a metal frame engaging the edges of the material so the material is free to
expand and contract without restraint.
2. The rabbet depth should be sufficient to allow for the thermal contraction or deflection of the plastic without withdrawal of
the edges from the frame.
3. Through-bolting or other inflexible fastenings, which do not provide for expansion and contraction, can cause failure of the
installation.
4. Before installation in the metal frame, plastics should be cut sufficiently shorter than the channel frame dimensions to allow
for thermal expansion.
5. Sealant compounds and tapes should be types that are sufficiently extensible to accommodate thermal expansion and
contraction and which adhere to both the plastic and frame.
6. Depth and width requirements of the rabbet are determined by type, thickness and the wind load requirements. See plastic
manufacturer’s recommendations for minimum rabbet size limitations.
7. Screw applied stops to the interior side of the sash may be applied tight against the plastic. It is not generally practical to
apply snap-on glazing beads tight against the sheet. A bond breaker tape applied to the stop is recommended to avoid
scratching of the plastic during normal thermal movements.
8. With pressure equalization and weep systems, it may be necessary to use setting blocks to prevent blockage of weep holes.
With non-pressure equalization systems, it is permissible to set the sheets directly on the bottom of the sill member.
9. Wash with mild soap or detergent and water. Use as much water as possible in washing. Apply to large areas with a bristle
mop used in window washing and to smaller areas with a clean, soft cloth, sponge or chamois.
10. Use a clean, damp chamois if it is necessary to dry the washed surface.
11. Abrasives will scratch the surface of acrylic and polycarbonate sheets. The exercise of reasonable care in cleaning acrylic
plastic will minimize scratching.
12. Polycarbonates and acrylics have about the same coefficient of thermal expansion (change in length = coefficient of
expansion x length x oF temperature change). This coefficient is approximately eight times more than glass and three times
more than aluminum. This high degree of thermal expansion and contraction results in much greater movements than glass.
Therefore, careful consideration should be given when selecting the glazing system.
13. Sash designs suited for glass are not necessarily suited for glazing plastics. At dimensions (height or width) greater than
72" (1828 mm), more bite is required than on glass. The sealant dimension (face clearance) must also be increased to allow
for the greater movement of the plastic.
GANA Glazing Manual - 91 2004
14. Glazing systems should be installed in accordance with good glazing practices.
15. There are coated plastics on the market, which improve the scratch resistance by use of a transparent coating applied to the
acrylic or polycarbonate sheet. The resistance of such coatings to ultra-violet or atmospheric chemical degradation should
be fully investigated prior to use.
16. A difference between temperature and/or humidity conditions, prevailing on opposite sides of a sheet, may cause the sheet
to bow slightly toward the surface exposed to the higher temperature and/or humidity. However, the sheet will return
towards its original condition as soon as the temperature or humidity differential has been reduced. This bowing puts a
great amount of stress on the glazing system.
17. Plastic sheets with major dimension greater than 24 (610 mm) should be installed with a continuous bead. Glazing compound
should never be used; only elastomeric sealants with adequate elongation characteristics and proven adhesion to the
particular plastic substrate should be used.
18. All surfaces of wood and steel should be prime painted as required by the manufacturer before application of sealants.
Aluminum sash should be cleaned with an appropriate solvent to remove protective finishes and grease. Under no
circumstances should plastics be exposed to solvents such as Xylol, Toluol, MEK, etc. VM & P Naphtha may be used as an
effective cleaner. When using solvents follow the recommendations on the Materials Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) supplied
by the solvent manufacturer.
19. If unusual loading, temperature, humidity or sash conditions exist, consult with plastic manufacturer for recommendations.
20. Unmask plastic sheet edges before installing. This will protect glazing during installation. Unmask entire sheet immediately
after installation.
21. The edges of a plastic lite should be thoroughly cleaned with VM & P Naphtha before setting in sash.
22. Protect plastic from excess sealant smears with a paper-backed adhesive tape around the edges adjacent to the rabbets.
23. Plastic glazing should be regarded as a finishing operation and should be scheduled as one of the last steps in the
completion of the building. If this is not practical, acrylic plastic should be protected from paint, plaster and tar splashes
with drop cloths or other suitable covering.