Here are the step by step instructions for

   20m (and 40m) (and 15m) band traps:

Bill of Materials (for 2 traps):

2 PVC sewage pipes, Outer Diameter (OD) 32 (50)(32) mm, 80  (95)(80)  mm

long each, thick walled (3mm) and resistant to heat (95°) version.

4 bolts with nuts, M5x15 or M5x17 (zinc anodized or Stainless Steel for
permanent use)

4 'grower' M5 (teethed washers)

4 washers M5 (zinc anodized or Stainless Steel for permanent use)

 
4 butterfly nuts M5 (zinc anodized or Stainless Steel for permanent use)

4 big washers M5 , outer diameter 25mm. Use ZINC ANODIZED IRON if you
want to solder directly on them, if you use copper or stainless steel , you will
need a eye lug to solder the coax and connect to the M5 bolts.(recommended
for high power).

186  (306)(134)  cm COAX CABLE type  RG-58 C/U  (the type is critical,
use C/Uversion, to have same capacitance per meter and power handling)

Preparation of the pipes:

Mark  2 holes in-line  (these are for the bolts), at 13 (15) (13)mm from each end
of pipe
Mark 2 holes (these for coax), at 13mm from each end of pipe, and for 20m
  trap 90° on each side of the two holes for the bolts (so the coax holes will be
180° opposite) / For 40m trap, at 32mm distance along the circumference,
on each side of the marks for bolt holes. For 15m, same construction as
for 20m.

Drill all 4 holes with 5mm and remove sharp edges with a trimmer, especially for the
 
coax holes

Preparation of the the 4 big washers:

These are used for mechanical strength and connecting the coax ends to
terminal bolts
  Remove zinc anodization on 1/2 of washer surface (as soldering is very difficult
and unreliable on anodized zinc). Use a grinder or file.

   Now this will be the area where we will solder the coax ends

  Using 2 pliers, bend the washer so that it will fit inside the PVC tube. Keep the area for
 soldering as depicted!

  This will be the result (4 pces), adjust till they nicely fit inside the PVC tube.

Now insert the 4 big washers in the tube ends, keep the area for soldering on the outer
  side, and insert the M5 bolts.

Now put the small washer and M5 nut on the bolts and tighten very well with
appropriate tools.
 
We are now ready to start to wind our coax coils !

Take 93 (153) (67) cm of RG-58C/U coax for each coil. Insert approx 10 cm in the hole
  for the 'start'. RG-58C/U will just pass in a 5mm hole.

Remove insulation on 15mm of the end passed through pipe and prepare tail like
  shown

  On the shield, solder a small hookup wire length 120mm about (take at least same
gauge as coax center wire) and cover with heat shrink tube. Put a small nylon fastener
3mm after the start of coax outer jacket (here in the picture in red).
 Now gently retract the coax in the tube, while inserting the hookup wire till it comes out
  of the tube on the other side, and the coax cannot be pulled out any more (nylon
fastener)

Now solder (a 60w iron should be OK) the coax center on the big washer. Make sure
  you have a good bond, but do not overheat as the coax / PVC will melt...

Now start to wind the coil !

tightly wind the coax around the PVC tube, till you have 7,5 turns (8,7 turns)
(5,5 turns widely spaced, spread over tube), where the coax will enter the
  PVC tube again
spread evenly the windings for 20m trap, keep them 'tight' for 40m trap
make sure the coax outer windings are at least 3mm from the connection
bolts/nuts

Use the short remaining end of coax to pull is as much as possible inside the tube and
  have  windings sitting tight. Then cut off the coax so you have 20mm left inside the
tube.

Using a cutter knife delicately around outer jacket, remove insulation on about 15mm
  and prepare coax ends like shown.

  Solder the coax shield to the big washer

Solder the coax centre to the hookup wire , which you will have cut till desired
length (make it as short as possible)
 Cover this solder joint with heat shrink tube, immediately after heating it up,
squeeze firmly with pliers the free end to seal off the tube.

important: check if both M5 nuts are still well tightened (they will loosen with
the heat !)

 Your coax trap is now ready to be tuned !

How to tune the traps ?

Use a grid-dipper (but must be accurate to 100 kHz at least)

Use a signal generator and put the trap in series with a RF voltmeter, a field
strength meter input, .... and look for minimum signal (= resonance)

Use a transceiver with adjustable  low power (5w ?), connect  the trap in series
  with a power meter/dummy load, or a small bulb (like of bicycle rear light), and
look for minimum lighting up (= resonance)

Tune both traps at 15  (7.3) (22) MHz by playing with the coil windings (closer
to each other = lower frequency). You will see that the dip is quite broad.

Try to distribute the windings evenly till all looks nice - this will as well distribute
the dissipated heat evenly and prevent arcing. Make sure  the coax outer
windings remain at least 3mm from the connection bolts/nuts.

Once the resonance is OK and the trap is looking fine, apply PVC glue (this glue is
used for mounting PVC tubing, it is clear, dries in minutes and becomes quite hard
after hours) on the windings, especially on the outer turns of the coil, and a couple of
  strokes in the longitudinal direction. Liberally apply 2 or 3 coats of glue as well on the
coil inside (soldering points, coax ends, big washers etc. to weather protect these
elements).  The recheck the resonance point : it will not have moved due to the glue.

Put the 5mm 'grower' washers and the butterfly nuts in place (with some Vaseline
  grease as protection against rust) : your  COAXTRAP  is now ready ! Apply a label
indicating the band it has been designed for as the 'finishing touch' !

See my '' simple HF holiday antenna's '' page  to make your dipole ! 

 

Very useful links:   

    
http://www.w8ji.com/traps.htm   Calculation of trap losses under various conditions by W8JI  Tom
    
http://degood.org/coaxtrap/   The attic dipole with coax traps for 80 to 10m by NU3E John
    
http://www.qsl.net/ve6yp/index.html Coaxtrap.zip : Coax Trap calculator / designer by VE6YO Tony (see below)

Found that the number of turns is accurate, using the center of band frequency, but the
  length of cable is somewhat short for practical construction. Add exactly 30mm coax
length to the calculated result to solder tail end in comfort. The result will be easy to
tune just above the desired band.