JUNE 2022 | VOTED MAGAZINE BRAND OF THE YEAR

WORLD OF
FLAVOUR + Maple syrup
pecans

+ RECIPES FROM
MALAYSIA, GREECE,
SYRIA & MORE
+ GLOBAL STREET FOOD
+ SIX WAYS WITH
SAUSAGES
+ CIDER-GLAZED
FRENCH APPLE GALETTE
+ TRAVEL TO PERU, BOSTON
& BIRMINGHAM

CARAMEL
SPONGE
PUDDING AKA:
SOUTH AFRICAN MALVA DESSERT
YOTAM NORNIE BERO JOSÉ
OTTOLENGHI Macadamia-crusted PIZARRO
Hot chips with tahini rack of lamb Spanish menu
JUNE
CONTENTS

120
 CONTENTS.

REGULARS
6 Ed’s Letter
10 Talk to Us
12 Menus
23 Insider: News
28 Eat Out
Sydney’s new Catalonian must-visit
and Melbourne’s hottest steakhouse.
30 delicious. Drinks Club
Pairing Qantas Wines with recipes.
32 Drinks
Our critic and comic get imaginative
with an Israeli pudding.
34 Nornie Bero
For the love of lamb.
36 Yotam Ottolenghi
The superstar chef’s take on that
global comfort food, hot chips.
38 Cheese Counter
The Studd siblings get baking with
an iconic Dutch cheese.
40 Subscribe to delicious.
42 Meat Market
A French stew with an Irish soul.
44 I’m Loving

52 Matt Preston’s culinary wanders.

144 Insider: Travel

100 Extract FOLLOW US...

SAVOUR Chef John Chantarasak taps into his
@deliciousAUS
15 In Season Thai heritage in his tasty new book.
Chef Anna Mortimer brings the 108 Guest Chef
essence of Paris to coastal NSW. The Syrian chef treating Melbourne delicious.com.au
50 Malaysia to the flavours of her homeland. For more delicious. content.
Coconut, chilli and spices offer an 116 Wicked
intoxicating taste of the Asian nation. We’ve scoured the globe to bring
58 Sausages you a perfect pastry collection.
ON THE COVER
Caramel sponge pudding
Irresistible recipes from far and wide 124 Extract
(South African Malva dessert
for very clever sausages. Baking buff Chetna Makan shares
– recipe p 99)
66 Greece sweet creations with an Indian twist.
Recipe Warren Mendes
Journey to the Greek Islands with Photography Chris Court
a menu by Helena Moursellas.
74 On Trend TRAVEL Styling David Morgan

Snack your way around the world 130 Global Flavours

with international street food classics. From coast to ancient capital in Peru. OFFICIAL DELICIOUS.
82 Entertaining 136 City Guide TEST KITCHEN SUPPLIER:
Our meat is supplied by Vic’s Meat
Take a trip to regional Spain in the Why it’s all coming up Brummie. (vicsmeat.com.au).
pages of José Pizarro’s new book. 146 Postcard
90 Warren Mendes Beat a historic path through Boston.
The South African-born chef returns 154 Passport
from his latest trip full of lekker ideas. A chef’s guide to Waiheke Island.

delicious.com.au 5
6
WELCOME
Freestanding Refrigerators
8
DON’T MISS
THE MOST A month of exclusive offers,
DELICIOUS events and experiences
across four cities
MONTH!
MAY 1–31 2022
SYDNEY | MELBOURNE
BRISBANE | ADELAIDE
INBOX.

TO US
OUR MOST-LIKED POST
MEMORIES MADE: My husband and I have a dear,
2,517 likes, 51 comments young friend who is a war veteran. He has completed numerous
Get your comfort food deployments, including Iraq. Anzac Day is very important to him
on tonight with our and he is passionate about attending the dawn service and catching
spiced potato, sage and leek up with his fellow veterans. He mentioned to us some time ago how
soup with potato crisps. important Anzac Eve was when he was on base. When I saw the
Loaded with rich parmesan, Double Choc Mousse Cake in the November 2021 issue, I decided
leeks and sage, and topped
I would set myself the task of baking it for him, his wife, myself and
with extra crispy fried potato,
my husband this Anzac Eve. I’m not a baker and, living in the
this luxuriously creamy soup
country, I also faced the challenge of finding the mix. I had success
is guaranteed to bowl you
over. Find the recipe at eventually and despite the appearance being far from the photo in
delicious.com.au the magazine, it was a huge hit and was totally decadent. Thank you
Recipe: @helena_marieee for the inspiration and joy this gave us all on April 24th, 2022.
Photography: Annette Richardson
@william_meppem
Styling: @kirstenljenkins #MAKEITDELICIOUS
MAKE THE COVER
Looking for cool-weather comfort?
INSPIRED EATING: Here I sit, sipping on a lemon drop Our cover star has you covered – this
martini (The Comic’s wildcard drink, April issue, p 38), with some sticky, saucy South African pudding
cabbage slaw with hazelnuts, currants and buttermilk dressing (p 99) is made for winter feasting. Our
(inspired by the menu highlights from Fish Butchery, Waterloo, in tip: make a double batch of maple
Joanna Savill’s report on the new place in The Serve, p 37), pecans for sweet snacks! Show us
to have alongside a whole fish barbecued Greek-style. Inspiration your take by tagging @deliciousaus
from even the inside columns, well done delicious.! and #makeitdelicious.
Lorraine Milne

THE WINNER IS…

I just wanted to let you know and share with you my mum’s adoration for your magazine. My mum Julie has subscribed to delicious.

delicious. reserves the right to edit reader letters, posts and comments.
since 2011 and has a proud stack of the 98 magazines she has kept – it’s 62cm high. She absolutely loves your magazine – every
issue that she receives in the post, she will pore over and dog ear most pages. Additionally, I will no doubt get a message saying,
“Gosh, Aims, this is a SUCH A GOOD issue.” She loves cooking, and is really great at it. And I think that is mostly due to your

or write to us at Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015.

inspiring magazines, well-thought out and approachable recipes, and ongoing commitment to making food an enjoyable
Send your emails to delicious@newslifemedia.com.au
experience that brings people together. Thank you! Aimee Sics

ED’S NOTE: Congratulations, Aimee (and Julie)! You’ve won a Le Creuset Signature
Stainless Steel Rondeau, valued at $420. Celebrated for combining the heritage of
European craftsmanship, the performance of brilliant design and inspiring cooks
everywhere, Le Creuset is proud to introduce a new line of stainless steel cookware like
no other. This Signature Stainless Steel Rondeau features tri-ply construction to ensure
even heat conduction and distribution while cooking. The wide range of shapes and
sizes makes this inspiring new stainless steel collection ideal for everything – searing,
sautéing, pan-frying and simmering.

10 delicious.com.au
JUNE

MENUS
BO L D FL AVO U RS W IN T ER CO M F O R T FA S T BIT E S

Peri peri Char kway teow

chicken wings (stir-fried rice noodles)
IN SEASON
 “FRENCH CUISINE IS SATIATING.
IT’S TRADITION AND TECHNIQUE.
IT’S ABOUT QUALITY OF INGREDIENTS.
THE CULTURE AROUND FOOD, AND
ITS ENJOYMENT, RUNS DEEP.”
11/ 2

1/ 2

18 delicious.com.au
“WHILE THERE’S A LOT OF TECHNIQUE
THAT GOES INTO THE DISHES
I PREPARE, THEY’RE VERY SIMPLE,
BECAUSE WE HAVE ACCESS TO
SUCH BEAUTIFUL PRODUCE HERE.”
 INSIDER NEWS
Hot tables, lust-have products, the latest news, trends & more.
Edited by Erina Starkey

@erinastarkey

TA B L E TA L K

TRENDING NOW
MAFALDINE
Move over macaroni,
PHOTOGRAPHY GREG ELMS &

mafaldine has fallen

into favour. This
KRISTOFFER_PAULSEN

frilly-edged ribbon
lends itself to light
seafood sauces, like
this octopus ragu at
the newly relaunched
Gowings Bar & Grill
at QT Sydney.

DELICIOUS.COM.AU/EAT-OUT Go online for weekly restaurant news and reviews from our critics and reviewers.
delicious.com.au 23
 WHISKY BUSINESS
Lark Distillery’s latest release combines bittersweet
chinotto flavours with the earthy peat of single malt. COFFEE ART
Espresso yourself with these bright
Casks seasoned with Coal Valley Chinotto produce new travel coffee cups by In The
Roundhouse. Each piece features
a drop with blasts of burnt orange, toasty cinnamon original designs by local artist Daimon
and smoky marmalade. $349.99, larkdistilling.com Downey. $29, intheround.house

CORE VALUES
Challenge yourself in the
kitchen with chef Clare
Smyth’s debut book,
Core by Clare Smyth
($89.95, Phaidon). Inside,
SO A-PEELING you’ll find 60 recipes
Cut prep time in half with the from the three-Michelin-
Victorinox REX peeler. Sharp starred Core in London
swivel blades can tackle fruit as well as exclusive
and veg as well as chocolate insight into the work
and cheese. The clever tool and mind of one of the
comes in lavender, blueberry, world’s best chefs.
cinnamon and cashew, or
plated in 18-carat rose gold.
$14.95-$189, victorinox.com.au

LET’S GET
FIZZICAL
Looking to splash out
on a new sparkling
water maker? The
SodaStream Duo is
compatible with both NEW WAVE
glass and plastic Give leftovers new life with Anyday
bottles, so you can stay
hydrated at home or microwave cookware. Made from
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includes a one-litre chocolate block is filled
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black or white. $299, taste of summer
- without a spaghetti sauce stain in
harveynorman.com.au all year round. sight. From $69.95, cookanyday.com.au

24 delicious.com.au
YOUR SHORTCUT TO BAKING BRILLIANCE
We have combined two of the greatest desserts into one with the release of
our newest baking mix. Introducing the Tiramisu Brownie – your new go-to
NEW! sweet treat! The best news? It comes in a convenient packet mix so it’s
easy to bake, impressive to serve and delicious to taste.
NEW!

SHOP THE RANGE IN WOOLWORTHS NATIONALLY

delicious.com.au/bakingrange OR SCAN THE CODE
 CLOCKWISE: Plates
of Catalonian delights;
off-menu caviar; chefs
at the pass; Alexander
Calder tapestries adorn
the room; snacks and
tapas bites (inset)

@parlarpottspoint

Potts Point’s luxe French brasserie Franca has a new sibling right
next door, writes Kate Gibbs, and it’s speaking our language.

PARLAR, PRONOUNCED “parlour”, Potts Point’s glitterati slide into comfy

brings coastal Catalan dining with a side booths in loved-up pairs, while architects
of Mediterranean cool to Sydney. with their grown-up families enjoy Louis
Just like Franca, opulent design is part Roederer ‘242’ Reims Champagne and
of the experience. The 55-seat space – tins of caviar that we, mere mortals, can’t
adorned with velvetine brown corduroy even find on the menu. It’s a special
and leather bench seats, Giallo Siena occasion place for as-often-as-possible.
marble tables, Rosso Damascus marble The food focus is Catalonia, specifically
floors and curved oak walls – has been where it meets the south of France on the
renovated by owner Andrew Becher with Mediterranean. Head chef José Saulog
interiors firm Steel and Stitch. On the kicks off a share-style menu with snacks
walls hang exuberant Alexander Calder like Olasagasti anchovy churros with
tapestries, from Becher’s own collection. creme fraiche allioli, a glorious lemon Wagyu rump cap carpaccio on a smoky
myrtle dust bringing flavours closer to bonito allioli cream is a fun play on Italy’s
home. Here, in rainy Potts Point, is the vitello tonnato. The paella-like fideuà
trip to the sunny Med we’ve craved. marinera, dotted with fish and clams,
Keep the snacks coming, they’re good. features thin, short pasta pieces with a
The morcilla sandwich may be the snack delightfully crispy underside. Creme
of the year. Gilda toast is an elevated spin Catalana with caramelised white
PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN

on the Basque anchovy, green olive and chocolate could become a cult dessert.
green chilli pintxo with charred toast. From drinks maestro Alex Raclet’s
More substantial dishes play with menu, a Catalan Sour is fresh and zingy.
richness and texture: sweet with sour, raw There are ample wines by-the-glass, and
next to caramelised, smoked with fresh. the NV Pares Balta ‘N’ Penedes Cava is
Saulog could play it safe and luxurious for ideal to both set the scene and see out a
a well-heeled crowd, but shifts his menu night in this celebratory destination.
past the expected into the extraordinary. 81 Macleay Street, Potts Point, NSW
 The latest venue from an unstoppable Melbourne restaurateur is the
steakhouse of our dreams. It’s the restaurant the city needed right
now, writes Larissa Dubecki, and performs this duty with aplomb.

THE VENUE: Grill Americano,

112 Flinders Lane, Melbourne
THE VIBE: A portal to 1960s New York,
Grill Americano is a place where foie
gras, wagyu and Barolo are deployed in a
giddy tribute to the gods of dining. Chris
Lucas (inset) has hit a home run with his
addition to the CBD restaurant scene.
WHAT’S COOKING: The swoon-fest
continues with a menu delivering the
Italian-American grill songbook in the key
of Sinatra. The snackage program from
chef Doug Keyte (ex-Hellenika) and his
crew is solid, including fried green olives
stuffed with veal, pork and chicken, and
curling wisps of salumi sliced in the open
kitchen with reverence.
WHAT’S POURING: The mighty wine list
has a thing for Italy and France (don’t we
all) and an undertow best suited to deep DISH IT
pockets – but interesting by-the-glass Our West Australian
options can have you reaching for a gavi critic, Max Brearley,
loves repping his home
or nebbiolo over a riesling or shiraz. region, Margaret River.
MUST-TRY DISH: All roads lead to the At Frui Momento he found
Josper charcoal grill. The choose-your- a truly stand-out snack.
“Seth James has been in the
own steak adventure goes from an topflight of WA chefs for a
entry-level minute steak (200g at $48) up time, so I had high hopes for his
to the Florentine-style bistecca (1.2kg at new venture with winemaker Larry
Cherubino,” he says. “The fruits de mer is
$165). Dither over black truffle butter or as you’d expect from a certified seafood
bordelaise, peppercorn or gorgonzola whisperer; wrapping the likes of west coast
sauce – or absolve yourself of choice with occy in roasted seaweed with thin-sliced
house-made pickle and a banging cocktail sauce
the beef Rossini: eye fillet and foie gras inspired by Seth’s childhood. With a glass from
with a textbook madeira sauce. their stellar wine list, not much can beat it.”

3 OF A KIND
PHOTOGRAPHY ADRIAN LANDERS

Get your snack on with these Spanish-inspired tapas restaurants.

For more on the latest restaurant, cafe and bar reviews, head to delicious.com.au/eat-out

delicious.com.au 29
 DRINKS

Prefer all red or a

mix of wines? Try
our delicious. Red
Dozen or Seasonal
Dozen Wine Plans!
OFFER

EARN 1 QANTAS POINT FOR EVERY $1 SPENT *

SCAN TO SHOP NOW

 THE CRITIC’S PICKS

POT & STILL FIG

APERITIF, $48
Pretty, floral and very
figgy, this is a beautiful
sweet-savoury liqueur that
combines a sense of true,
fig flavour and aroma with
attractive spice characters.
It’s an absolute delight
with this dish. Serve chilled
in small glasses.

CRITIC & THE COMIC NON 3 TOASTED

THE SUBTLE ART OF

CINNAMON & YUZU,
(750ML), $30
This does what the label

NOT GIVING A says and offers tart-sweet

yuzu juiciness with a good
dusting of cinnamon.
Valencia orange juice
brings a little extra
dimension, too. It’s a
beautiful drink to pair with

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
this wonderful pudding.

FUTURE MOUNTAIN
DARK EYES AMBER SOUR
WITH BLACKBERRIES

MIKE BENNIE IS ALSO CO-OWNER OF A SYDNEY-BASED WINE AND LIQUOR RETAIL BUSINESS
(750ML), $32
This match is a bit left of
centre but felt compelling.
The pleasing sourness of
the beer resets the palate at
each sip, and a lingering
blackberry sweetness
marries to the almond and
strawberries in the dessert.

THE COMIC’S WILDCARD

DAL ZOTTO, PUCINO

PROSECCO N.V, $21
Cheap and cheerful meets
quality and care, thanks to
winemakers with heritage
working with glera (that’s
the varietal’s less sexy
name). To make mimosas,
for those who know I
suggest ‘Orchy’, otherwise
just something not pulpy.
 CRITIC & THE COMIC.

Malabi (Israeli milk pudding)

with almond and strawberry
(find the recipe at
delicious.com.au)

For more on the latest in the

world of drinks, head to
delicious.com.au/drinks
NORNIE BERO.

home grown.
Taking a popular cut of lamb raised on a flavoursome native shrub,
Nornie Bero gives the classic Sunday roast a must-try Australian update.

THERE’S SOMETHING SO GREAT about saltbush lamb, when 2 garlic cloves, crushed
farmers let the lambs nibble on fresh saltbush and its natural 1 cup sea parsley leaves, finely chopped (substitute regular
fresh, salty flavours are infused through the meat. flat-leaf parsley)
Saltbush is one of my top five native Australian herbs and 1
1 / 2 tsp native thyme
in this macadamia crumb with native thyme, the combination 1 cup (90g) panko breadcrumbs
packs some extra buttery and minty flavour, with a bit of heat 100g macadamias, finely crushed
from peppermint gum. 1/ 2 tsp ground peppermint gum

I always advise having a little taste of native herbs and spices 11/4 cups (310ml) vegetable stock
before adding them to a dish, to get a sense of their individual 60g unsalted butter
flavours and strengths. When using native thyme, start off 2 stalks of fresh saltbush, leaves thinly sliced
with a little at a time to get a strength you’ll enjoy. It has quite 200g warrigal greens, thinly sliced
a pungent grassy aroma and carries a powerful flavour with 1 cup (200g) couscous
a fresh finish.
On the plate, I’ve added a side using warrigal greens. Preheat oven to 200°C. Season lamb rack all over with 2 tsp
Warrigal greens are a fantastic native spinach that grows like dried saltbush and freshly ground black pepper.
wildfire in the southern parts of Australia. The big leaves hold Heat oil in a large frypan over medium-high heat. Add lamb
their water content when cooked, so don’t wilt like other spinach and cook for 2 minutes to seal off each side of the rack. Set aside
varieties. This simple dish with a favourite lamb cut shows just for 5 minutes to cool.
how versatile our native ingredients are and how easy it is to Whisk together the egg, mustard, garlic, half the sea parsley
incorporate them into everyday cooking! and half the native thyme in a small bowl. Set aside.
Mix breadcrumbs, macadamia, remaining sea parsley,
Nornie Bero is the Melbourne-based founder, CEO and executive remaining dried saltbush and peppermint gum in a shallow tray.
chef of Mabu Mabu, which includes Big Esso, Tuck Shop and Brush sealed sides of lamb with egg mixture, then press into the
Mabu Mabu catering. Bero’s debut book Mabu Mabu (Hardie crumb mixture, turning to fully coat. Place lamb on a wire rack on

PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

Grant Books) is out now. a baking tray and roast for 30-35 minutes until lamb has a golden
SPECIALTY INGREDIENTS crust and is cooked to medium, or until cooked to your liking.
There are native ingredients needed in this recipe – for dried Set aside for 5 minutes to rest.
herbs and spices, try mabumabu.com.au and herbies.com.au; While the lamb is roasting, heat stock and butter in a medium
for fresh herbs and greens, try specialty fruit and veg shops. saucepan until simmering. Add fresh saltbush, warrigal greens
and remaining native thyme, and cook for 30 seconds or until
MACADAMIA & SALTBUSH-CRUSTED LAMB WITH leaves are wilted. Add couscous and stir to combine. Remove
WARRIGAL GREENS & NATIVE THYME COUSCOUS from the heat, cover with a lid and set aside for 5 minutes or until
SERVES 4 the couscous is tender and the stock has been absorbed.
Slice lamb. Spoon couscous onto a serving plate, top with
1kg (8-10 point) lamb rack, French trimmed lamb and drizzle with extra oil to serve.
3 tsp dried saltbush
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle delicious.com.au/food-files
1 egg For more tips on making the @mabu_mabu_aus
1/4 cup (70g) Dijon mustard most of native ingredients.
 INGRED
VE

IE
NAT

NT
NATIVE
THYME

INGRED
VE
I

IE
NAT

NT

WARRIGAL
GREENS

delicious.com.au 35
YOTAM OTTOLENGHI.

POTATO
PERFECT
Is there anything more satisfying than loaded fries?
Yotam Ottolenghi adds a global twist to this irresistible dish
with a tangy yoghurt sauce and spiced, smoky nuts.

OVEN FRIES WITH TAHINI YOGURT rice flour, oil and 1 tsp salt flakes. Spread
AND SMOKY-SWEET NUTS them out in an even layer so that they’re
SERVES 4 not overlapping. Cover the baking tray
tightly with foil and bake for 15 minutes,
FOR THE POTATOES until potatoes steam and soften slightly.
1kg skin-on Yukon Gold (or King Edward) Meanwhile, make the pickled herb
potatoes, cut lengthwise into rough stems. Add herb stems to a small bowl
11/ 2 cm-thick sticks with the apple cider vinegar and set aside
2 tsp rice flour to gently pickle.
3 tsp extra virgin olive oil For the nuts, add oil to a small frypan
and heat over medium-high. Once hot,
FOR THE PICKLED HERB STEMS add the pine nuts and almonds, and
1 tbs finely chopped fresh coriander or cook, stirring occasionally, until toasted
parsley stems (or a mixture of both) and nicely browned, about 1-3 minutes.
1 tbs apple cider vinegar Remove from the heat and immediately
stir in the sugar, nigella seeds, Urfa chilli
FOR THE SMOKY-SWEET NUTS flakes, Aleppo chilli flakes, paprika, and
45ml extra virgin olive oil 1/4 tsp salt flakes. Transfer to a bowl.

40g pine nuts For the tahini yogurt, add all

30g blanched almonds, roughly chopped ingredients to a bowl with 2 tbs water
1 tsp light brown sugar and 1/4 tsp salt flakes and whisk until
1 tsp nigella seeds (or black sesame smooth. Add extra water, if needed,

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS

seeds) until the mixture is just pourable, since
1 tsp Urfa chilli flakes (dried Turkish chilli it tends to thicken as it sits.
pepper, substitute mild chilli flakes) Remove foil from the potatoes, turn the
1 tsp Aleppo chilli flakes oven heat up to 220ºC and return the tray PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY JONATHAN LOVEKIN
1/ 2 tsp hot smoked paprika to the oven for 15 minutes. Use a spatula
to gently flip the fries over, separating
FOR THE TAHINI YOGURT them if they stick together at all, and
60g Greek-style yogurt return to the oven to bake for a further
50g tahini 20-25 minutes, until nicely golden and
1 tbs fresh lemon juice crispy. Set aside to cool for 5 minutes.
2 garlic cloves, crushed To serve, transfer the fries to a large
serving platter and drizzle with the tahini
Preheat oven to 200ºC. yogurt. Spoon the nut mixture on top,
On a large baking tray lined with followed by the pickled stems and their
baking paper, toss the potatoes with the liquid. Serve immediately.

36 delicious.com.au
“DOUBLE UP ON
THE SMOKY-
SWEET NUTS.”
 CHEESE COUNTER.

WAKE
& BAKE
one-dish bake to warm your winter.

@thestuddsiblings

MANY PEOPLE KNOW that Gouda is GOUDA, CAULIFLOWER & and bring to a simmer. Stir through the
Dutch, but do you know the correct POTATO BAKE mustard and cumin, season with salt flakes
pronunciation? It’s actually ‘how-duh’, not SERVES 4-6 and freshly ground black pepper, then
‘goo-duh’. Sorry to put a stop to your remove from the heat.
Gouda puns. The cheese is named for the 600ml thickened cream Layer half the cauliflower in a 24cm x
town of Gouda in southern Holland where 100g unsalted butter 24cm, 6cm-deep (1.2L) baking dish, and
it hails from. Although the Netherlands is 2 garlic cloves, crushed top with half the eschalot, potato and
small in size, it is still one of the world’s 1/2 cup (125ml) vegetable stock Gouda. Repeat layers with the remaining
largest commercial cheese producers, with 2 tsp each mustard powder and cauliflower, eschalot, potato and Gouda.

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY STYLING DAVID MORGAN

about 50 percent of this being Gouda. cumin seeds Pour the cream mixture evenly over the top.
Gouda-style cheeses date back to the 1 medium (700g) cauliflower, trimmed, Combine oil and breadcrumbs in a
12th century, but didn’t take off until the sliced into 5mm-thick slices bowl, season and toss well to combine.
17th century, and are not name protected, 3 eschalots, peeled, thinly sliced on Sprinkle over the cauliflower mix. Cover
meaning it is used throughout the world a mandoline with foil and bake for 1 hour or until
as a style of cheese. The cheese curds 500g potatoes, peeled, thinly sliced on cauliflower is tender and cooked through.
are washed in hot water and the whey is a mandoline Remove foil and bake for a further
removed before the curds are moulded 300g Gouda, rind removed, grated 7-10 minutes until the crumbs are golden
and pressed. Removing whey removes the 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil and crisp. Remove from the oven and allow
lactose and creates a sweeter cheese that 11/2 cups (75g) panko breadcrumbs to cool slightly before sprinkling with
becomes even sweeter as it ages. As it 2 tbs chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves chopped parsley to serve.
ages, it develops a gorgeous complexity
with notes of butterscotch, toffee, caramel, Preheat oven to 220°C. delicious.com.au/recipes
toasted nuts and even chocolate that linger Place cream, butter, garlic and stock For recipes starring international
on your palate long after your first bite. in a small saucepan over medium heat and Australian cheeses.

38 delicious.com.au
 SUBSCRIBE & RECEIVE A
BONUS GLOBAL FLAVOURS
COOKBOOK

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SUBSCRIBE NOW. VISIT MAGSONLINE.COM.AU/P/M2206DLC

 JUNE 2022 | VOTED MAGAZINE BRAND OF THE YEAR

WORLD OF
FLAVOUR + Maple syrup
pecans

+ RECIPES FROM
MALAYSIA, GREECE,
SYRIA & MORE
+ GLOBAL STREET FOOD
+ SIX WAYS WITH
SAUSAGES
+ CIDER-GLAZED
FRENCH APPLE GALETTE
+ TRAVEL TO PERU, BOSTON
& BIRMINGHAM

CARAMEL
SPONGE
PUDDING AKA:
SOUTH AFRICAN MALVA DESSERT
YOTAM NORNIE BERO JOSÉ
OTTOLENGHI Macadamia-crusted PIZARRO
Hot chips with tahini rack of lamb Spanish menu

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delicious.com.au 41
MEAT MARKET.

Colin Fassnidge and Anthony Puharich

take a little trip to Dublin via Paris with a
satisfying stew ideal for cold winter nights.

THE CHEF AND

THE BUTCHER
C: Basically this is an Irish stew. A: That’s right. This
A: We’re going global. It’s French. is still very much a
C: No, we got on a plane and hopped French dish though.
right over France and landed in Dublin. C: Alright, fine. We’ll
Mum’s got out the half-empty bottle of drop you in Paris and
red that’s been open for who knows how I’ll carry on through
long and she’s pulled the beef short ribs to Dublin.
out of the bottom of the fridge. A: Suit yourself. I’ll be
A: This is perhaps the most quiet I am up in first class. Au revoir! crispy. Add the eschalots and carrot and
ever going to be in one of these chats cook for 5 minutes or until browned. Add
we have. BEEF BOURGUIGNON-STYLE the mushrooms and cook for a further
C: I have my reasons, you see. We’ve SHORT RIBS 5 minutes or until browned. Use a slotted
never had beef in Ireland. We’ve never SERVES 6 spoon to remove vegetables from the
had red wine, and we’ve never had Begin this recipe 4 hours ahead. pan and set aside.
onions and mushrooms. The French Add 2 tbs flour to the pan and cook
have always had them… (That’s a joke 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil for 2 minutes or until lightly toasted. Add
by the way.) 2.5kg beef short ribs with bone, the tomato paste and stir to combine,
A: I, for one, am lost. So we’re talking 4 pieces then add the wine and cook, scraping the
about the Irish and mushrooms? 2 tbs plain flour, plus extra for dusting base of the pan with a wooden spoon, for
C: Let’s move on to what you’re good at: 50g unsalted butter, chopped 1-2 minutes until reduced by half. Return
would you call beef short ribs a secondary 200g streaky bacon, cut into lardons beef ribs and vegetables to the pan with

INTERVIEW SAMANTHA JONES PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY

cut of meat? 200g whole eschalots, peeled the stock, bay leaves and thyme and
A: This is the thing with secondary cuts: 2 carrots, cut into 1cm chunks bring to the boil.

FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING HANNAH MEPPEM

I consider secondary cuts to actually be 200g Swiss brown mushrooms, halved Cover with baking paper and foil and
primary cuts. 2 tbs tomato paste transfer to the oven. Bake for 3 hours or
C: This is a premium secondary cut. It’s 1 cup (250ml) red wine until meat is falling off the bone.
like premium economy Fassnidge-style. 4 cups (1L) beef stock Remove beef and vegetables from the
A: I love it. It’s not first class, it’s not 2 bay leaves pan and set aside. Using a spoon, skim
economy, it’s premium economy. 1/ 2 bunch of thyme, leaves picked off the top layer of fat/oil and discard.
C: This is a stew with leg room. It’s full of Baguette and steamed green beans, Return pan with sauce to the oven and
flavour from the bacon, eschalots, wine to serve bake for 1 hour or until caramelised and
and herbs. You may buy beef and think the liquid has reduced by half.
you’re getting on the front of the plane, Preheat oven to 180°C. Return beef and vegetables to the
but then you realise it’s beef rib. But it’s Heat oil in a large flameproof roasting sauce to warm through, then divide
not economy, it’s premium economy. pan over medium heat. Dust beef in among serving bowls. Serve with
A: The attendant is there, you’ve shown extra flour and cook, in batches of two, baguette and green beans alongside.
them your boarding pass and you think for 3-4 minutes until browned. Remove
you’re going left, but you’re going right from pan and set aside. @askthebutcher_
– just not too far right. Add butter to the pan and melt, then
@cfassnidge @fassnidge73
C: You can still see the rope. add bacon and cook for 6-8 minutes until

42 delicious.com.au
BUTCHER’S CUT
SHORT RIBS
Planning on slow cooking this winter?
Short ribs are your best friend. The
easy, affordable cut is at its best after
spending a good few hours on the stove
or in the oven, after the meat has broken
down to give you that irresistible
falling-off-the-bone texture.
I’M LOVING.

I LOVE... Is it worth acknowledging that food tastes better when you are
happy? Take a magical meal in Lombok with the woman I love, of
snapper cooked over coconut husks on a palm-fringed beach at

TRAVELLING dusk, with icy beers from an Esky. The simplicity was everything.
My trip to Portugal was also full of surprising deliciousness,

TASTEBUDS and no town more so than Beja. We’d gone there on a whim and
discovered a culinary wonderland – from slices of pork neck
salted and seared on a barbecue to braises of pork, potatoes
Dreaming of past travels, Matt Preston relives and clams. It is very Iberian, this mountain-and-sea combination,
the unexpected dishes that have stayed with him. and is at the heart of this month’s recipe, where tender cubes
of pork are finished with clams that open to cascade their salty
IT IS STRANGE THAT in the absence of travel, I’ve spent more juices over the meat – seasoning it with just the right umami hit.
time than ever dreaming about it. What particularly snares me is
the memories of those dishes that you never knew existed until PORK & CLAMS
you travelled… and then fell hopelessly in love with. SERVES 4
Now I’m not talking about legendary culinary attractions that
delivered like Naples’ pizza, La Tour d’Argent pressed duck, sushi 4 large red capsicums, halved, seeds removed
or ramen in Tokyo, Hainanese chicken rice in Malaysia and chilli 6 garlic cloves, 2 whole, 4 crushed
crab in Singapore. I’m also not talking about obvious ones that 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil

didn’t deliver, such as Istanbul’s famous fish sandwich (made with 1kg pork scotch steaks, cut in 3cm pieces, excess fat trimmed
imported Norwegian fish), or overcooked steaks in Buenos Aires. 1 red onion, finely chopped
No, we are talking about the devastating deliciousness of frijoles 1 bunch coriander, stems finely chopped, leaves picked
negros for breakfast in Mexico City, with smooth, comforting black 1 cup (250ml) dry white wine, (such as an antão vaz, from the
beans and bright fresh lime, green serrano chilli and coriander; the Alentejo region of Portugal where this dish originates)
simple joy of Madrid’s tradie lunch of a white roll stuffed with fried 1 large ripe tomato, grated
calamari; or even the Buenos Aires choripán, a chorizo roll loaded 1kg clams, cleaned
with a sharp salsa and eaten outdoors with a bottle of Malbec in Sourdough baguette, to serve
a brown paper bag, which erased the memory of those steaks.
So often, these culinary highlights are not the ones you need a Preheat oven to 180°C. Line a baking tray with foil. Start by
booking to enjoy. More likely, it’s kebabs wrapped in tissue-thin making a cheat’s massa de pimentão (Portugal’s classic red
bread cooked over savage propane heat in a Mumbai alley, or capsicum paste, usually made by salting capsicum overnight
grilled mackerel – skin crispy, flesh oily – paired with a teapot of then slow roasting). For a quick version, place capsicum on
local cloudy, sour makgeolli rice wine in a dingy Seoul nightclub. prepared tray and roast for 30-40 minutes until blistered.
The shock of the location is often part of the joy. Like the faded Remove from oven, cover with foil and set aside to steam for
Louisiana town straight out of True Detective where a bearded 10 minutes, or until the skins slip off easily. Peel and discard skin
man-mountain in overalls cooked a huge, bubbling pot of crawfish. and stems. Place capsicum in a food processor and whiz with the
I couldn’t understand much of his Deep South patois, other than 2 whole garlic cloves, drizzling in 1 tbs oil while blending. Toss
his happiness at my sigh upon tasting my first sweet “crawdad”. pork in half the capsicum paste and set aside until required.
It was the same sigh I let out in Hong Kong trying steamed Place a large heavy-based saucepan with a lid over medium

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT STYLING DAVID MORGAN

buns glazed with sugar and pork fat from a chaotic Mong Kok heat. Add the remaining 2 tbs oil and onion and cook, stirring
hole-in-the-wall, and that greeted a plate of Istanbul’s short, plump occasionally, for 6-8 minutes until soft. Increase heat to high, add
local anchovies in an old fishing village outside the city walls. the pork in batches, and sear for 3-4 minutes until golden brown.
I’d never thought of dunking ice-cold mango slices into chilli until The pork doesn’t need to cook through, as it will finish with the
that riot greeted me after the 1,270 steps up Sri Lanka’s Sigiriya clams. In the final minute, stir in coriander stems and crushed
Rock, or expected that petai (the aptly named stink bean) braised garlic. Transfer to a bowl and keep warm.
with sambal and prawns could smell so bad but taste so good in Add wine and cook, scraping the bottom of the pan with
Kuala Lumpur. Then there was the kanom krok (coconut griddle a wooden spoon, until reduced by one-third. Add remaining
cakes) in Bangkok that left a longing to rival any vacation love affair. capsicum paste and tomato, bring to a boil and cook for
My teenage daughter experienced the phenomenon before a 6-8 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, return pork and onion,
recent Paris trip. The most vivid memory she longed to recreate add clams, and simmer, covered, for 3-5 minutes until clams have
was not macarons, croissants or a meal in some gastro temple. It opened. Discard any that remain closed. The clam juices should
was the neat, crust-free croque monsieur – like a toastie that spent season everything nicely, but season to taste, if required. Scatter
five years in a Swiss finishing school – from a salon near the Louvre. with coriander leaves and serve with a baguette alongside.

44 delicious.com.au
 Join us as we show you how to create restaurant-quality dishes at home with some
of the best chefs, producers and foodies in the business – think Peter Gilmore, Adam
D’Sylva, Nornie Bero and more. Here’s a taste of some of the episode highlights so far.

HOSTE
D
B

Y
DA
RREN
RO B
E
R
TS
ON

“ THE DELICIOUS.
ETHOS IS ALL
ABOUT CREATING
APPROACHABLE
BUT REALLY
EXCITING FOOD
FOR PEOPLE TO
COOK AT HOME.”
— DARREN ROBERTSON
SCAN TO WATCH
 Bona fide seafood star Josh Niland
shares the secret of the cod roll
with a cult following. Josh invites
Paralympian Ellie Cole into the Fish
Butchery and helps the record-
breaking swimmer build her
confidence in the kitchen, just in
time for her to prepare a take on
Josh’s roll for a very special friend.

Acclaimed chef Alanna Sapwell

gets cheesy with an indulgent
kipfler potato dish, before our
in-house cheese experts Ellie and
Sam Studd recreate Alanna’s recipe
with premium Aussie dairy. Darren
Robertson brings it all home with
salt and vinegar potatoes you’ll
make again and again.

Respected Melbourne-based chef

Khanh Nguyen proves that tofu
doesn’t need to be tame by
whipping up a vibrant broth spiked
with native flavours. Fellow tofu
fan and media icon Yumi Stynes
follows it up with a wholesome
dish prepared for her family to
mark a major milestone.

Colin Fassnidge reveals how he

came up with the irresistible crispy
chicken bread that has become his
trademark, and shares the recipe
with Olympic kayaker Tom Green
for a family meal with a difference.
Darren Robertson rounds it out
with a baked chicken rice that is
sure to comfort.

WATCH NEW EPISODES WEEKLY AT

delicious.com.au 47
 PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS STYLING VIVIEN WALSH

SAVOUR

Roti canai (p 56)

delicious.com.au 49
MADE IN
MAL AYSIA

MERCHANDISING EMMALY STEWART

EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Scan to see how
we interpreted this
classic Malay dish.
delicious.com.au/june
 1/ 1/4

1/4

1/ 1/ 2

1/ 2

1/2
“ASAM LAKSA PACKS
THE SPICE PUNCH
THAT WE ALL KNOW
AND LOVE INTO A
BROTH THAT’S A
LITTLE LIGHTER THAN
THE BETTER-KNOWN
COCONUT VERSION.”

delicious.com.au 53
Char kway teow
(stir-fried rice
noodles – p 52)
WINE MATCH: GAELIC CEMETERY
CELTIC FARM RIESLING 2020
With lemon sherbet, mandarin and white blossoms,
coupled with ripe lemon, kiwi fruit and green apple
notes, this fresh white offers a touch of sweetness and
soft, crisp acidity. Perfect for complex, spicy dishes.
SNAG IT

Saucisse, wurst, banger, snag

– no matter what you call them,
sausages are a true global dish.
From Polish kielbasa to Chinese
lap cheong, Lucy Busuttil has
EXCLUSIVE NEW
drawn inspiration from across VIDEO CONTENT
the culinary world to create Scan the code now
hearty recipes full of flavour. to see how to make
these soft pretzels.
delicious.com.au/june
PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER STYLING DAVID MORGAN
 SAUSAGES.

WINE MATCH: LECONFIELD

COONAWARRA CABERNET FRANC 2019
This fragrant, medium-bodied red with rounded tannins
and bright acidity pairs exquisitely with almost any
meal, in particular cured or fatty meats.

Pork sausage, bacon & bean pie

(p 65) OPPOSITE: Beer bratwurst
with soft pretzel rolls (p 62)

delicious.com.au 59
SAUSAGES.

“WITH FRAGRANT
SESAME OIL AND
GINGER, CONGEE
IS THE IDEAL BASE
FOR PRAWNS,
CHICKEN AND
SALTY-SWEET
LAP CHEONG”

Congee with lap

cheong and prawns
(p 62)

60 delicious.com.au
MERGUEZ SAUSAGE BAKE WITH ovenproof frypan over medium-high
MOROCCAN COUSCOUS heat. Add sausages and cook, turning
SERVES 4 regularly, for 5 minutes or until browned.
Transfer to a plate and set aside.
1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil Add onion to pan and cook, stirring
8 Merguez sausages (from selected occasionally, for 8-10 minutes until
butchers) softened. Add garlic and cook for 2
1 large onion, thinly sliced minutes, then stir in tomato paste, harissa,
2 garlic cloves, crushed ras el hanout and sugar. Cook for 2 minutes
2 tbs each tomato paste and harissa or until fragrant. Add vinegar, scraping
1 tsp ras el hanout (Moroccan the bottom of the pan with a wooden
seasoning), plus 1/2 tsp extra spoon, then stir in tomatoes and
2 tsp brown sugar chickpeas. Return sausages to pan, bring
1 tbs sherry vinegar to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.
2 x 400g cans cherry tomatoes Transfer to oven and bake for 30 minutes.
400g can chickpeas, drained, rinsed Set aside for 15 minutes to cool.
11/2 cups (300g) couscous Meanwhile, combine couscous, lemon
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, plus zest, extra ras el hanout and remaining
juice of half 1 tbs oil in a heatproof bowl and season.
1 cup mixed herbs (we used mint, Pour over 11/ 2 cups (375ml) boiling water.
coriander and flat-leaf parsley), finely Cover, and stand for 10 minutes to
chopped, plus extra to serve steam, then fluff with a fork. Stir through
herbs and lemon juice. Divide couscous
Preheat oven to 200°C. and sausage bake among plates. Top
Heat 2 tbs oil in a large heavy-based with extra herbs to serve.
SAUSAGES.

BEER BRATWURST WITH SOFT each roll with butter and sprinkle with shredded chicken and soy sauce through
PRETZEL ROLLS coarse salt. Bake for 22-25 minutes until the congee. Season with white pepper.
SERVES 4 golden. Set aside to cool. Heat peanut oil in a large frypan over
Meanwhile, heat oil in a large frypan high heat. Add remaining sausage and
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil over medium heat and cook sausages, cook for 1-2 minutes until beginning to
6 large bratwurst sausages turning regularly, for 5 minutes or until crisp. Add prawns and cook for 2 minutes
1 tbs unsalted butter browned. Transfer to a plate. Set aside. or until prawns are cooked through.
3 red onions, thinly sliced Reduce heat to medium-low, add Ladle congee into serving bowls and
1 tbs thyme leaves, plus extra to serve butter, onion and thyme and season with top with lap cheong and prawn mixture,
1 tbs plain flour salt flakes. Cook, stirring regularly, for chilli oil, long green shallot, crispy shallots
1 tbs brown sugar 12 minutes or until caramelised. Add flour, and sesame seeds to serve.
1 tbs red wine vinegar sugar, vinegar, mustard and paprika and
1 tbs German mustard, plus extra cook, stirring constantly, for 1-2 minutes SPICY ‘NDUJA WITH GREENS,
to serve until thickened. Pour in beer and stock, BEANS AND PAPPARDELLE
1 tsp paprika stirring to combine and scraping the base SERVES 4
375ml bottle malt beer of the pan with a wooden spoon. Bring to
1 cup (250ml) beef stock the boil and cook for 10-12 minutes until 1/2 bunch kale, stalks removed,
sauce has thickened slightly. Reduce heat leaves torn
SOFT PRETZEL ROLLS to a simmer, return sausages to pan and 400g pappardelle pasta
33/4 cups (560g) plain flour cook for 5 minutes or until warmed through 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil

1 sachet (7g) instant dried yeast (do not boil sausages as they will split). 200g ‘nduja
60g unsalted butter, softened Sprinkle sausages with extra thyme 1/ 2 cup (125ml) dry white wine

1 tbs brown sugar leaves and serve with pretzel rolls. 400g can cannellini beans, rinsed,
1/ 2 cup bicarb soda drained
2 tsp coarse sea salt CONGEE WITH LAP CHEONG 1 tbs unsalted butter
AND PRAWNS 1/ 2 cup (40g) finely grated pecorino,

For the pretzel rolls, place flour, yeast, 20g SERVES 6-8 plus extra to serve
butter, sugar and 1 tsp salt flakes in the 1/ 2 bunch flat-leaf parsley, chopped

bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 2 tsp sesame oil

dough hook. With motor on low, slowly 2 tbs fresh ginger, finely chopped Bring a large saucepan of salted water
add 11/2 cups (375ml) lukewarm water, then 8 lap cheong sausages, thinly sliced to the boil. Add kale and cook for 2-3
knead for 10 minutes or until smooth and 11/4 cups (250g) long grain rice minutes until just tender. Using tongs,
elastic. Cover with a clean tea towel and 4 small chicken drumsticks remove kale and set aside on a plate
set aside in a warm place for 45 minutes- 8 cups (2L) chicken stock lined with paper towel. Add pasta to
1 hour until doubled in size. 2 tbs light soy sauce boiling water and cook following packet
Meanwhile, preheat oven to 200°C. 1 tbs peanut oil instructions until al dente. Drain,
Line a large baking tray with baking 20 medium green prawns, peeled and reserving 1 cup (250ml) cooking water.
paper. Set aside. halved lengthways Meanwhile, place oil in a large
Knock back dough, turn onto a lightly Chilli oil, thinly sliced long green non-stick frypan over medium-low heat.
floured surface and knead for a few turns shallots, crispy shallots and toasted Add ‘nduja and, using a wooden spoon,
until smooth. Divide into 12 equal pieces sesame seeds, to serve break into small pieces. Cook for
and shape into balls. 4 minutes or until lightly browned. Add
Place baking soda and 8 cups (2L) water Heat sesame oil in a large heavy-based wine and cook for 2 minutes or until
in a large saucepan over medium heat and saucepan over medium heat. Add ginger reduced by half. Add beans and simmer
bring to the boil. Working in batches of 2, and half the sausage and cook, stirring for 1 minute or until warmed through.
gently drop pretzel rolls into boiling water constantly, for 1 minute or until fragrant. Add pasta, reserved cooking water,
and cook, turning once, for 30-40 seconds. Add rice, drumsticks and stock. Boil, butter and pecorino. Season with freshly
Using a slotted spoon, lift rolls out of the stirring occasionally, then cover with a lid ground black pepper. Cook, stirring, for
water, allowing excess water to drip off. and reduce heat to low. Simmer, stirring 1 minute or until water and pecorino has
Place on the prepared tray. Repeat with regularly, for 1 hour or until congee is the emulsified and sauce thickly coats pasta
remaining balls. Use a sharp knife to consistency of loose porridge. (add more cooking water if required).
score a cross in the top of each roll. Remove chicken, cool slightly, then Fold through parsley and kale. Serve
Melt remaining 40g butter. Lightly brush shred, discarding skin and bones. Stir the immediately with extra pecorino.

62 delicious.com.au
 Spicy ’ndjua with
greens, beans and
pappardelle

“HAILING FROM
SOUTHERN ITALY,
SPICY ’NDUJA ADDS
RICHNESS TO THIS
DISH, WHICH IS
BALANCED BY
THE CREAMY
WHITE BEANS”
Polish cabbage rolls
 SAUSAGES.

POLISH CABBAGE ROLLS up 3cm of leaf to cover the filling, then stirring regularly, for 8-10 minutes until
SERVES 6 fold in the sides and roll leaf away from onion is softened. Add sage and sausage
you to seal in the filling. Repeat with and cook, breaking up with a wooden
1 large savoy cabbage remaining leaves and mixture. Set aside. spoon, for 8 minutes until meat has
3/4 cup (150g) pearl barley Preheat oven to 180°C. broken down and begins to brown. Stir
300g pork sausages, casings removed Heat 2 tbs oil in a large ovenproof in tomato paste and cook, stirring, for
300g clobasi or kielbasa sausages (from frypan with a lid over medium heat. Add 4 minutes or until caramelised. Stir in
selected butchers), very finely remaining onion and garlic and cook, passata, stock, beans, Worcestershire
chopped (we used a food processor) stirring regularly, for 5 minutes or until sauce and mustard powder and bring to
1 egg, lightly beaten softened. Add passata, 3/4 cup (180ml) the boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon water, bay leaves, caraway seeds and simmer for 15-20 minutes until sausage
1/ 2 cup each flat-leaf parsley and dill sugar. Season and cook, stirring is tender and sauce has thickened. Set
leaves, chopped, plus extra to serve occasionally, for 15 minutes or until sauce aside to cool.
2 onions, coarsely grated thickens. Turn off heat and transfer Preheat oven to 180°C. Line 2 baking
6 garlic cloves, crushed one-third of the sauce to a jug. trays with baking paper.
3 tbs extra virgin olive oil Place cabbage rolls, side-by-side with Fold shortcrust pastry sheet in half
700ml rustic passata the seam-side facing down, in the frypan and roll out to a 36cm round. Place on
2 bay leaves on top of remaining sauce so that they fit one prepared tray and chill for 5 minutes.
1 tsp caraway seeds snugly. Spoon over reserved sauce. Repeat with puff pastry sheet, rolling out
1 tsp caster sugar Cover with a lid and bake for 1 hour, then to a 30cm round. Place on second
Pickled onion and cornichons, to serve remove lid, drizzle with remaining 1 tbs prepared tray and chill until required.
oil and bake for a further 15 minutes. Line a 22cm-round, 4.5cm-deep pie
Remove stem of cabbage by cutting Set aside for 15 minutes to cool, then dish with the shortcrust pastry, allowing
around the base. Half-fill a large deep serve scattered with extra herbs, pickled excess pastry to overhang. Chill for
saucepan with salted water and bring onion and cornichons. 20 minutes, then trim pastry.
to the boil. Gently place cabbage in the Line pastry with baking paper and
pan, stem-side down, top with extra PORK SAUSAGE, BACON baking weights, then place on a baking
water to cover if required and weigh & BEAN PIE tray. Bake for 20 minutes or until pastry
down with a small lid or plate to help MAKES 4 is light golden, then remove weights and
submerge cabbage. Cook for 8 minutes You will need baking weights for this paper and bake for a further 15 minutes
or until outer leaves are soft. Using tongs recipe. or until golden and dry (if pastry rises,
and a large slotted spoon, carefully very gently and slowly push down with a
remove cabbage from water. Remove the 1 tbs extra virign olive oil clean tea towel). Spoon cooled sausage
first layer of 3-4 cabbage leaves and 2 red onions, finely chopped filling into pastry shell.
transfer to a tray lined with a clean tea 200g streaky bacon, chopped Cut a small hole in the centre of the puff
towel to drain and cool. Return cabbage 1/4 cup sage leaves, chopped pastry sheet to allow steam to escape,
to pan and continue to cook, removing 800g traditional pork sausages (such as then gently place over the pie filling,
2-3 leaves every 2-3 minutes (top up Cumberland), casings removed allowing pastry to overhang by 3-4cm.
water if required) and transferring to tray, 2 tbs tomato paste Trim excess pastry and use to cut out
until you have removed all the leaves. 2 cups (500ml) passata leaf shapes for decoration. Using your
Cook pearl barley according to packet 1 cup (250ml) chicken stock fingers, crimp pie edges to seal. Brush
instructions, then drain and rinse under 400g can four bean mix, rinsed, drained pastry with egg wash. Arrange pastry
cold running water. 1/2 cup (125ml) Worcestershire sauce leaves on top to decorate, brush again
Combine pearl barley, pork sausage 2 tsp English mustard powder with egg wash, then sprinkle with salt
meat, minced clobasi, egg, zest, herbs 1 x 375g sheet shortcrust pastry, flakes. Bake for 1 hour-1 hour 30 minutes
and half the onion and half the garlic in thawed (we used Carême brand) until pastry is golden brown. Stand for
a bowl, season and stir to combine. 1 x 375g sheet puff pastry, thawed 15 minutes before serving.
Place a cabbage leaf on a clean work (we used Carême brand)
surface, stem-side facing you. Using a 1 egg, lightly beaten
sharp knife, remove and discard thick
stalk. Place 1/4 cup (60g) sausage mixture Heat oil in a large frypan over medium
on the leaf, 3cm from the bottom. Fold heat. Add onion and bacon and cook,

delicious.com.au 65
GO GREEK
EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Want to make this
classic silky tarama?
Scan to watch how.
delicious.com.au/june
“THESE RECIPES ARE
CLOSE TO MY HEART
– SOME HAVE BEEN
PASSED DOWN
THROUGH MY FAMILY
AND OTHERS ARE WHAT
I LOVE TO EAT WHEN I
VISIT GREECE. EITHER
WAY, THEY TASTE
LIKE HOME!”

Kakavia (fisherman’s soup)

In The Roundhouse ‘The
Blue Flower’ plate
“THESE TOMATO
KEFTEDES
TRANSPORT ME
STRAIGHT TO
SUMMER, SITTING
IN A TAVERNA IN
SANTORINI
WATCHING THE
SUNSET.”
WINE MATCH: SENSI COLLEZIONE
GOLD MONTEPULCIANO 2019
This medium-bodied wine features flavours of
purple and red fruits, licorice and sweet spice.
Supple and smooth, it’s perfect for pairing with
both meat and vegetarian dishes.
 “ALSO KNOWN AS THE BOMBAY
BURGER, THIS DEEP-FRIED SPICED
POTATO PATTY STUFFED INTO A SOFT
BREAD ROLL SHOWS WHY DOUBLE
CARBS CAN ONLY BE A GOOD THING!
A TANGY CORIANDER RELISH
AND CHILLI-COCONUT CHUTNEY
MAKE THE CASE FOR DOUBLE
CONDIMENTS, TOO, AND BLISTERED
GREEN CHILLI PILES ON THE HEAT.”

74 delicious.com.au
 ON TREND.

STREET
Along with the sights and sounds of a
new destination, exploring local street
food is one of the true pleasures of
travelling. Bring those flavours home

FOOD
with a little help from Emma Knowles,
who shares amped-up favourites from
Argentina, Canada, India and more,
perfect for sharing.

— AROUND THE WORLD —

PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER
STYLING DAVID MORGAN

Choripan (chorizo roll – p 80)

OPPOSITE: Vada pav (Bombay
burger – p 79)
LEMON & SAFFRON LAMB Natural yoghurt and flatbreads, 2 tsp kefte mixture into a ball and place
KEFTE TAGINE to serve on a tray. Repeat with remaining mixture
SERVES 4 and set aside until required.
KEFTE Melt butter in a large frypan over
40g unsalted butter, chopped 500g lamb mince medium-high heat. Add onion and
1 onion, grated 1 small onion, finely diced garlic and cook, stirring occasionally,
2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 garlic cloves, crushed for 5-6 minutes until onion is tender and
1 tsp each ground cumin and 1/4 cup each coarsely chopped flat-leaf golden. Add spices and cook, stirring,
ground ginger parsley and coriander until fragrant, then add stock and herbs.
1/ 2 tsp saffron threads 2 tsp ground cumin Bring to a simmer, then cook for a further
1/ 2 tsp paprika 1 tsp each ground coriander and 6-8 minutes until flavours develop.
1 cinnamon quill paprika Add meatballs to sauce, cover and
350ml chicken stock 1/ 2 tsp each ground cinnamon and simmer for 5-6 minutes until just cooked
2 tbs each finely chopped flat-leaf cayenne pepper through. Add lemon juice and preserved
parsley and coriander, plus extra lemon, check seasoning.
leaves to serve To make kefte, place all ingredients in a Remove from heat and scatter with
Juice of 1/ 2 lemon large bowl with 1 tsp salt flakes and mix extra herbs. Serve with yoghurt and
1 tbs finely chopped preserved lemon well to combine. Using wet hands, roll flatbreads alongside.

76 delicious.com.au
Pizza al taglio (p 80)
 “A RELATIVE OF GREEK
SPANAKOPITA, TIROPITA IS A
TANGY CHEESE PIE. WE’VE AMPED
UP THE CHEESE FACTOR AND
MADE RUSTIC HORIATIKO PHYLLO
– VILLAGE FILO – WHICH BAKES
TO A PLEASING CRISPNESS AND
GOLDEN BROWN BURNISH.”

Tiropita (cheese pie)

78 delicious.com.au
80 delicious.com.au
 POUTINE heat, add onion, garlic and thyme and
SERVES 4 cook for 6-8 minutes until onion is tender
Begin this recipe at least 3 hours ahead. and golden. Stir in flour and cook, stirring
You will need a deep-frying thermometer. occasionally for 2-3 minutes until sandy-
coloured. Gradually add stock, stirring
1kg russet potatoes (or sebago) continuously, until each addition is smooth
80g unsalted butter, diced and incorporated before adding more.
1 onion, thinly sliced Once all stock is added, bring to a simmer
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped and cook, stirring continuously, for 3-4
3 thyme sprigs, plus extra leaves, minutes until thickened and gravy no
optional, to serve longer tastes floury. Stir in vinegar, season
2 tbs flour generously, then strain and keep warm.
2 cups (500ml) beef stock Just before serving, return to a simmer.
1 cup (250ml) chicken stock Half-fill a large wide saucepan with
1 tsp apple cider vinegar vegetable oil and heat to 150°C. Deep-fry
Vegetable oil, to deep-fry chips, in batches, for 6-8 minutes until pale
“CHIPS, GRAVY AND CHEESE… 200g mozzarella, torn or grated golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and
100g cottage cheese drain on paper towel. Increase oil
WHAT’S NOT TO LOVE ABOUT
temperature to 180°C. Deep-fry chips
THIS QUÉBÉCOIS FAVOURITE?
Peel potatoes and cut into 12mm chips. again, in batches, for 3-4 minutes until
TRADITIONALLY, CHEDDAR
Place in a large bowl of cold water and golden brown and crisp. Remove with a
CURDS ARE USED IN THIS DISH, soak for 2-3 hours. Drain well, then spread slotted spoon and drain on paper towel.
BUT MOZZARELLA ALSO WORKS into a single layer on a tray lined with a Transfer chips to a bowl, season to
WELL. WE’VE COMBINED IT clean tea towel. Stand for 1 hour to dry. taste, add cheeses and half the gravy.
WITH COTTAGE CHEESE Meanwhile, make the gravy. Melt butter Toss to combine and serve hot with
FOR EXTRA TANG.” in a large saucepan over medium-high remaining gravy alongside.
ENTERTAINING.
 ENTERTAINING.

WINE MATCH: LONGVIEW QUEENIE

PINOT GRIGIO 2021
A good tomato-based sauce can bring out fruit flavours
in a white wine that would otherwise be missed. With
strong aromas of pear and citrus, good texture and
pronounced acidity, this wine is perfect for cutting
through fatty meat and paired with citrusy sides.

Shoulder of Iberico
pork in rich tomato
sauce with lemony
couscous (p 89
 Cardamom and
orange repápalos
(bread dumplings)

Rice and clams

 NO PLACE
LIKE HOME
Warren Mendes returns to the country of his birth
to deliver a menu full of South African culinary quirks,
from a monkey sauce that contains zero monkeys
to bunny curry without a trace of rabbit.
PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS COURT STYLING DAVID MORGAN

Bunny Chow
(chicken curry
rolls, p 94)
 WARREN MENDES.

Bobotie (South African spiced

mince pie, p 99)

delicious.com.au 91
 Wild rhinos greet a
sunset game drive at
Kruger National Park
WARREN MENDES.

Burnt ends skewers

and monkey gland
sauce (p 94)

delicious.com.au 93
WARREN MENDES.

BUNNY CHOW (CHICKEN in a large frypan over medium-high heat beef and onion onto metal skewers. Grill
CURRY ROLLS) on each side for 1 minute or until golden. for 5-6 minutes, turning, basting often
SERVES 4 Serve curry in the bread bowls, topped with remaining sauce, until meat is cooked
with yoghurt, coriander and sambal. through and starts to catch and char all
2 tbs extra virgin olive oil, plus extra over. Grill lemon, cut side down, for
6 large chicken thigh fillets, cut into BURNT ENDS SKEWERS AND 1-2 minutes, until lightly charred. Scatter
3cm pieces MONKEY GLAND SAUCE skewers with parsley and serve with grilled
1 large onion, thinly sliced SERVES 4 lemon and remaining sauce alongside.
1 bunch coriander, stalks chopped, “Monkey gland sauce, of course, contains
leaves picked and reserved to serve no monkey. This term for barbecue sauce is PERI PERI CHICKEN WINGS
10 curry leaves firmly embedded in South African food SERVES 4-6, AS A LIGHT MEAL
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped culture.” Begin this recipe at least 4 hours
1 tbs finely chopped ginger ahead. You will need metal skewers. 1.8kg chicken wings
1 tbs mild curry powder Kewpie mayo, sliced green chilli and
2 tsp garam masala 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil lime halves, to serve
3 tomatoes, cut into 2cm pieces 1 onion, finely chopped
3 desiree potatoes, cut into 2cm pieces 4 garlic cloves, chopped PERI PERI SAUCE
1 unsliced loaf white bread 1 tbs chopped ginger 5 long red chillies
Greek-style yoghurt, to serve 2 tbs tomato paste 1 red capsicum
1/ 2 cup (160g) fruit chutney (we used 1/ 3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil

CARROT SAMBAL Mrs Balls brand) 1/ 3 cup (80ml) red wine vinegar

1 red onion, sliced 2 tomatoes, chopped 1 tbs caster sugar

1 large or 2 small carrots, grated 2 tbs Worcestershire sauce 1 red onion, chopped
2 long green chillies, seeds removed, 1/ 2 cup (120ml) tomato sauce 1 tbs tomato paste
sliced 2 tbs brown sugar 4 large garlic cloves
2 tbs white vinegar 1/ 2 tsp chilli powder (or to taste) Zest and juice of 2 lemons
Juice of 1 lemon 1kg beef fillet or rump steak, cut into 1 tsp smoked paprika
3cm pieces 2 tsp dried oregano
Heat oil in a large frypan over medium- 2 onions, quartered, separated into
high heat. Add half the chicken and cook, petals For the peri peri sauce, grill chillies and
turning occasionally, for 6 minutes or until 2 lemons, halved capsicum on an open flame until charred
browned. Drain on paper towel. Repeat Flat-leaf parsley sprigs, to serve and blackened. Place in a bowl, cover with
with remaining chicken. plastic wrap, and steam for 5 minutes.
Add more oil to pan if required, then Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium Peel and discard skin and stems, then
add onion, coriander stalks and curry heat. Add onion, season with salt flakes place in a food processor with remaining
leaves. Cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes and lots of freshly ground black pepper ingredients, 1 tsp salt flakes and 1/2 tsp
until softened. Add garlic and ginger and and cook for 3-4 minutes until softened. freshly ground black pepper. Whiz until
cook for 2-3 minutes until fragrant. Add Add garlic and ginger and cook for a finely chopped. Transfer to a medium
curry powder and garam masala, stir, and further 1 minute until fragrant. Add tomato saucepan over medium heat and simmer
cook for 30 seconds, then add tomato paste and cook for 1 minute, then add for 8-10 minutes until thickened. Remove
and potato. Return chicken to pan with chutney, tomato, Worcestershire sauce, from the heat and set aside to cool.
3 cups (750ml) water or enough to just tomato sauce, sugar, chilli and 1/3 cup Place 1/2 cup peri peri and chicken
cover. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook (80ml) water. Cook for 6-8 minutes until wings in a bowl, toss to combine, and
for 10 minutes. Remove lid and cook for mixture starts to thicken. Remove from marinate for at least 1 hour, or overnight
a further 10-15 minutes until potato is the heat and blitz with a stick blender in the fridge if time permits. Remove
tender, chicken is cooked through and until smooth. Adjust with a little water if from the fridge 1 hour before cooking.
sauce has reduced. Season to taste. required. Cool completely, then chill. Preheat a barbecue with a lid to
For the sambal, combine all ingredients Place beef and 1/2 cup sauce in a large medium-high heat. Season chicken
and a pinch of salt flakes and set aside. bowl and marinate in the fridge for at least with salt flakes and grill, turning, for
Slice bread into 4 thick slices. Scoop out 3 hours, or ideally overnight. Remove from 12-15 minutes until lightly charred
most of the filling, leaving the base of each the fridge 30 minutes before cooking. and cooked through. Serve with
piece in tact, so the bread acts like a bowl. Heat a chargrill or barbecue to medium- remaining peri peri, Kewpie, sliced
Use fresh, or drizzle with olive oil and toast high heat. Thread alternating pieces of chilli and lime halves alongside.
 EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Want to watch how
Peri peri chicken to grill these punchy
wings
wings? Scan now!
delicious.com.au/june

WINE MATCH: HITHER & YON

SHIRAZ 2020
Medium-bodied, brisk and assertive with flavours of
mulberry, blueberry, choc-mint biscuits, sweet spice
and toasty oak, this bold and complex wine pairs
well with barbecues and spicy cooking.

delicious.com.au 95
 CLOCKWISE: Starry
skies above Sabi Sabi’s
Earth Lodge; views
over the plains; dusk
dining, safari-style; the
Sabi Sabi Amber Suite

“SOUTH AFRICAN FOOD

HAS OPENED MY EYES
TO DIVERSITY IN CUISINE,
AS WELL AS THE EVOLUTION
OF RECIPES.”
 WARREN MENDES.

Caramel sponge pudding (South

African Malva dessert, p 99)

delicious.com.au 97
WARREN MENDES.

MILK TART 125g cold unsalted butter, chopped baking weights. Bake for 15-20 minutes,
SERVES 8-10 1 egg, beaten, for eggwash then remove baking weights and paper,
“Every South African bakery will sell brush pastry with eggwash, and bake for
milk tarts and every household will For the pastry, place flour and sugar in a a further 8-10 minutes until pastry is
have their secret recipe. There is beauty bowl with a pinch of salt flakes. Toss cold golden. Cool completely.
in its simplicity. You can use store-bought butter in the flour mixture, then use your To make the milk filling, place flours,
shortcrust pastry to save time, but I fingers to rub the butter into the flour cinnamon and vanilla in a heatproof bowl.
suggest making it!“ mixture to form a crumb. (Alternatively, Whisk in eggs and almond extract. Set
use a food processor.) Gradually add aside. Place milk and sugar in a saucepan
1 tbs each cornflour and plain flour 2-3 tbs cold water until the mixture forms over medium heat. Bring to just below a
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon, plus a dough. Knead slightly with your hands simmer, then remove from the heat and
extra to sprinkle then form into a disc, wrap in baking gradually pour into the egg mixture,
2 tsp vanilla bean paste paper and chill for 20 minutes. whisking constantly, until combined.
3 eggs, plus 1 extra egg yolk Meanwhile, preheat oven to 180°C. Return mixture to the pan over low heat
1/4 tsp almond extract Grease a high-sided 23cm tart pan. and cook, whisking constantly, until the
700ml milk Roll out pastry on a floured surface mixture thickens slightly. Remove from the
2 / 3 cup (150g) caster sugar until 4mm thick. (Keep both sides well heat. Whisk in butter until smooth and
50g unsalted butter floured so it doesn’t stick.) Line the combined. Pour into the tart shell, smooth
prepared tart pan with pastry, then prick the top and bake for 25-30 minutes until
PASTRY with a fork. Freeze or chill tart shell for set around the edges, with a slight wobble
21/ 2 cups (375g) plain flour, plus 5 minutes. in the middle. Cool to room temperature,
extra to dust Trim excess pastry from the pan. Line then chill for at least 2 hours. Dust with
1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar pastry with baking paper and rice or extra cinnamon to serve.
 Preheat oven to 180°C.
Place bread and milk in a
bowl and set aside to soak.
Melt butter in a large,
deep ovenproof frypan over
medium heat. Add onion and
curry leaves and cook, stirring, for
3-4 minutes until soft. Season, then
add garlic, ginger and curry powder
and cook, stirring, for 1 minute or until
fragrant. Add tomato paste, chutney and
vinegar and cook for 2-3 minutes until
caramelised slightly. Add mince and 1/ 3cup (110g) apricot jam
cook, breaking up mince with a wooden 2 tbs white vinegar
spoon, for 10 minutes or until browned. 2/3 cup (160ml) evaporated milk

Stir in the soaked bread and milk, Vanilla ice cream, to serve
breaking it up to combine, then add
sultanas and almonds. Add 1 cup (250ml) CARAMEL SAUCE
BOBOTIE (SOUTH AFRICAN water and check the seasoning. Reduce 1/ 2 cup (125ml) pure (thin) cream
SPICED MINCE PIE) heat to medium-low and cook for 55ml evaporated milk
SERVES 4-6 10 minutes or until thick and reduced. 1/ 2 cup (125g) brown sugar

Meanwhile, for the egg topping, beat 50g unsalted butter

2 thick slices white bread, crusts the eggs, turmeric and milk in a bowl or
removed (or 4 slices Wonder White jug and season with salt flakes. Preheat oven to 180°C. Line a small baking
style bread) Transfer beef mixture to a 25cm square tray with baking paper. Grease a 1.5L-2L
1/ 2 cup (125ml) milk ovenproof baking dish, pressing down capacity baking dish and set aside.
50g unsalted butter on the mixture to create a flat surface. Place pecans and maple syrup on
2 onions, finely chopped Carefully pour over the egg topping prepared tray and toss to coat. Bake for
8 curry leaves and scatter with bay leaves. Bake for 5-7 minutes until lightly toasted and
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 35-40 minutes until topping is golden. slightly caramelised. Set aside to cool
1 tbs very finely chopped ginger Meanwhile, for the pickle, combine all completely, then roughly chop.
2 tbs mild curry powder ingredients in a bowl and set aside. Combine flour, bicarb, sugar and a pinch
1/4 cup (70g) tomato paste Remove bobotie from oven and serve of salt flakes in a bowl. Add eggs, butter,
2 tbs fruit chutney, plus extra to serve immediately, with chilli pickle, extra vanilla, jam, vinegar and evaporated milk.
(we used Mrs Balls brand) chutney and yellow rice alongside. Whisk to combine, then pour into the
2 tbs apple cider vinegar NOTE: Yellow rice is simply steamed prepared dish. Bake for 20-25 minutes
1kg beef mince rice cooked with turmeric and a pinch until a skewer comes out clean and cake
1/3 cup (55g) sultanas of salt flakes. bounces back when touched.
1/3 cup (45g) slivered almonds, toasted, Meanwhile, for the caramel sauce,
chopped CARAMEL SPONGE PUDDING combine all ingredients and 1/3 cup
Yellow rice, to serve (see note) (SOUTH AFRICAN MALVA DESSERT, (80ml) water in a saucepan and bring to
COVER RECIPE) a simmer. Stir to combine, then remove
EGG TOPPING SERVES 6 from the heat and keep warm.
2 eggs Use a skewer to poke holes over the
1/4 tsp ground turmeric 1 cup (140g) pecans surface of the pudding, then pour over
1 cup (250ml) milk 2 tbs maple syrup the sauce and allow to soak in. Scatter
Fresh bay leaves, to decorate 12/3 cups (250g) plain flour with maple pecans and serve warm with
1 tsp bicarb soda vanilla ice cream alongside.
CHILLI PICKLE 2/3 cup (160g) brown sugar

1 large truss tomato, chopped 2 eggs

1 small red onion, sliced 50g unsalted butter, melted and
1 Lebanese cucumber, thinly sliced cooled, plus extra to grease
1/4 cup (60ml) apple cider vinegar 2 tsp vanilla bean paste

delicious.com.au 99
 EXTRACT.

“Thai fish cakes are famous around

the world – and rightfully so, as their
intriguingly bouncy texture and delicious
flavour, with red curry paste running
through the fish mixture, make them
a delight to eat at any time of the day.
I like to serve them as a snack or
precursor to a meal with traditional
sweet pickled cucumber, shallots and
chillies. Fish cakes also make a wonderful
light lunch served with a few coils of
kanom jim rice vermicelli noodles and
sprigs of Thai basil. If you don’t have
time to make the red curry paste, use
a quality shop-bought paste instead.”

Tort man pla (fish cakes with

cucumber pickle – p 104)
YUM AEPBPEERN

GAI YANG
 TORT MAN PLA

PAD GRAPAO NEUA

 EXTRACT.

Pad grapao neua (stir-fried

minced beef with holy basil)
GAENG DAENG BPET
WINE MATCH: TAHBILK
VIOGNIER 2021
Vibrant floral and stone fruit characters
dominate this youthful viognier. The
bold, rich flavours pair beautifully with
South-East Asian curries.
EXCLUSIVE NEW
VIDEO CONTENT
Watch how we fold
these street food
favourites now!
delicious.com.au/june
 WICKED.

Cider-glazed apple
galette (p 120)
OPPOSITE: Ghotab
(walnut & cardamom
filled pastry – p 122)
“THERE ARE SO MANY
INCREDIBLE PASTRIES
FOUND AROUND THE
WORLD, SUCH AS
THESE SFOGLIATELLE
– AN ICONIC ITALIAN
TREAT STUFFED
WITH A CHEESY
SEMOLINA FILLING.”
@geodoes

Candied orange & ricotta

sfogliatelle (p 122)
OPPOSITE: Cheese &
cherry strudel (p 120)
HUNGARY TURKEY

FRANCE
 WICKED.

Pistachio kataifi

“THIS STICKY DESSERT

IS DECEPTIVELY SIMPLE
TO PREPARE – MAKE
A BIG BATCH AND
SERVE WITH STRONG
ESPRESSO FOR A SURE
CROWD-PLEASER.”
delicious.com.au 121
ITALY thick slices. Flatten each piece into a rough DENMARK
CANDIED ORANGE & RICOTTA 9cm round. Place one round in your RHUBARB & CUSTARD DANISHES
SFOGLIATELLE cupped palm and press a deep indent into MAKES 8
MAKES 20-22 the centre, creating a shell shape. Spoon in
You will need a pasta machine. a heaped tablespoon of ricotta filling, and 1 large bunch (700g total) rhubarb,
bring pastry together to enclose. Place trimmed, cut into 5cm lengths
450ml milk on prepared tray. Repeat with remaining 1/ 3 cup (75g) caster sugar
1/ 2 cup (110g) caster sugar pastry and filling. Bake for 20-25 minutes 2 tbs orange juice
1 tsp vanilla extract until puffed and golden. Cool slightly, 1 tsp vanilla extract
150g fine semolina then dust with icing sugar to serve. 2 x 375g sheets frozen all-butter puff
1 egg yolk pastry, thawed (we used Carême brand)
250g firm ricotta IRAN 1/ 3 cup (35g) flaked almonds

Finely grated zest of 1 orange GHOTAB (WALNUT & CARDAMOM 1 egg, lightly beaten, for egg wash
1/ 3 cup (85g) mascarpone FILLED PASTRY)
2 tbs finely chopped candied orange peel MAKES APPROX 20 CUSTARD
Icing sugar, to dust You will need a deep-frying thermometer. 1 cup (250ml) milk
1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped
PASTRY 120g unsalted butter, softened 3 egg yolks
31/ 3
cups (500g) plain flour 2 egg yolks 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar

2 tbs runny honey 1/ 2 cup (140g) Greek-style yoghurt 20g cornflour

200g unsalted butter, softened 12 / 3 cups (250g) plain flour 1/ 3 cup (80g) creme fraiche

1/4 tsp ground cardamom

For the pastry, place flour, honey and 200ml 1 tsp baking powder For the custard, place milk and vanilla in a
lukewarm water in a stand mixer fitted Vegetable oil, to deep-fry medium saucepan over medium heat and
with the dough hook. Mix for 2-3 minutes bring to just below a simmer. In a bowl,
until a crumbly dough forms. Turn out FILLING whisk together yolks, sugar and cornflour.
onto a lightly floured surface and knead 1/ 2 cup (60g) walnuts, toasted (we used Gradually pour in the hot milk, whisking
for 5 minutes or until smooth and elastic. Woolworths Macro walnuts) constantly until combined. Strain into a
Enclose in plastic wrap and set aside at 1/4 cup (40g) almonds, toasted clean medium saucepan, place over
room temperature for 1 hour to rest. 2 tbs pure icing sugar, plus extra to dust medium-low heat and whisk for 8-10
Divide pastry into 8 pieces. Roll one piece 1/ 2 tsp each ground cardamom and minutes until thick. Remove from heat,
through a pasta machine on the widest ground cinnamon transfer to a bowl and cover directly with
setting, fold into thirds, and roll through plastic wrap. Chill completely, then fold
the machine again. Work dough through Combine butter and egg yolks in a bowl. through the creme fraiche. Set aside.
all settings until about 1mm thick. Lay on a Add yoghurt and stir to combine, then Meanwhile, preheat oven to 200°C.
large surface and gently stretch to make the stir in flour, cardamom and baking Line a baking tray with baking paper.
sheet a little wider. Brush generously with powder. Turn out onto a lightly floured Place rhubarb, sugar, orange juice and
butter. Roll a second sheet of pastry, stretch, surface and gently knead to form a soft, vanilla in a roasting tray. Toss to combine
and lay next to the first sheet, overlapping smooth dough. Place in a lightly oiled then spread in an even layer and roast for
slightly to join. Brush with butter. Roll bowl, cover, and set aside at room 20 minutes or until rhubarb is just soft but
remaining pastry and layer over the first two temperature for 2 hours to rest. still holding its shape. Cool.
sheets, brushing between each layer with Meanwhile, for the filling, place all Halve one pastry sheet lengthways, then
butter. Starting from a short edge, roll ingredients in a small food processor and cut each half into 4 (you should have 8 even
pastry stack into a log. Enclose in plastic whiz until very finely chopped. Set aside. rectangles). Place 1 tbs custard in the centre
wrap and refrigerate for 1-2 hours until firm. Roll pastry out on a lightly floured of each rectangle and scatter with almonds.
Meanwhile, place milk, sugar and vanilla surface until 2-3mm thick. Cut into rounds Place rhubarb on paper towel to absorb
in a small saucepan over medium heat and using an 8cm cutter. Place 1 tsp walnut excess liquid, then arrange 4-5 pieces on
bring to just below a simmer. Gradually add filling in the centre of each round and fold each pastry, leaving a 1cm border. Cut
the semolina, whisking constantly. Reduce to enclose in a half-moon shape. Press second pastry sheet into 8 rectangles. Cut
heat to low and whisk for 2-3 minutes until edges together and seal well with a fork. a hole in the centre of one pastry rectangle
thickened. Remove from heat and fold Place 5cm oil in a large saucepan and with a 5cm round cutter. Lay over the
through the yolk, ricotta, zest, mascarpone heat to 175°C. In batches, fry pastries for rhubarb and press edges to seal. Repeat
and candied peel. Cool completely. 2-3 minutes, turning halfway, until golden with remaining pastries. Place on prepared
Preheat oven to 220°C. Line a baking tray and puffed. Drain on paper towel. Dust tray and bake for 30-35 minutes until puffed
with baking paper. Cut pastry into 1.5cm- generously with icing sugar and serve. and golden. Cool slightly, then serve.
 with a twist of

SPICE
Gingered sweet potato tray
bake BELOW: Coconut and
lime cookies (p 124)

Coconut in a cake and ginger in a

tray bake… a hint of something
different takes Chetna Makan’s
desserts to dazzling new heights.
In her new book, The Great British
Bake Off star shares a collection of
her favourite recipes inspired by
flavours from her Indian heritage.

PHOTOGRAPHY NASSIMA ROTHACKER

FOOD STYLIST EMILY KYDD
 EXTRACT.

CHOCOLATE, COCONUT AND About 200g vegan dark chocolate Without shaking the can, open the
PEANUT CAKE (70% cocoa solids) coconut milk and scoop out the solids into
SERVES 8-10 50g smooth peanut butter a saucepan placed over a set of scales,
“For me there is only one rule for chocolate 270ml vegan cream leaving behind all the liquid. Make a note
cakes: they need to be light, moist and 50g icing sugar of the weight, then set over a low heat and
slightly fudgy. This recipe ticks all those gently bring to the boil. Chop up the same
boxes. One of the highlights is that, even Butter three 20cm round cake pans with weight of chocolate and place it in a
though it’s vegan, you can’t really tell.” vegan butter and line the bases with heatproof bowl. Pour the hot coconut milk
baking paper. Preheat the oven to 180°C. on top and add the peanut butter. Mix
100g vegan butter, plus more for Heat the almond milk in a large well so the chocolate and peanut butter
the pan saucepan and, as soon as the sides start melt, then set aside to cool slightly.
300ml almond milk to bubble, take it off the heat. Add the In another bowl, whip the cream and
2 tbs apple cider vinegar vinegar, mix and set aside for a minute, icing sugar with an electric whisk until
50g smooth peanut butter to give it time to split. Add the butter, you get soft peaks. Add the cooled
2 tsp instant coffee peanut butter and coffee and mix well chocolate cream and whisk until you have
250g self-raising flour until melted and combined. a spreadable consistency.
50g cocoa powder In a bowl, combine the flour, cocoa, Place a cake on a serving plate and
2 tsp baking powder baking powder, bicarb soda and caster spread over one-third of the chocolate
1 tsp bicarb soda sugar. Add to the milk mixture and whisk cream. Place another cake on top and
250g caster sugar for 2 minutes until it’s smooth and repeat until the cake is assembled.
creamy. Divide batter equally between This can be stored in an airtight
FOR THE CHOCOLATE CREAM the 3 cake pans and bake for 30 minutes container in the refrigerator for 4-5 days,
400ml can of good-quality, full-fat until a skewer inserted comes out clean. just bring it to room temperature
coconut milk Set aside to cool completely. before serving.

delicious.com.au 125
 I HAVE ALWAYS HAD a sweet tooth, inherited from my parents
along with my love for all food. Growing up, I was surrounded by
amazing Indian sweets, but I was lucky that my mum had a tiny
round portable oven. She was the only person we knew who
owned an oven... and she had a special love for baking cakes.
The inspiration for every bake in this book comes from my own
kitchen. These are the recipes that I have been meaning to share
for some time now, all simple bakes, with an added hint of spices
from my Indian heritage.
In this book, you will find a collection of sweet and savoury
recipes, with ingredients that are easy to find, but which all contain something new to
make your bakes sing and shine. Most importantly, though, it is that special ingredient
that only you can bring... that bit of love which you add to make every bake special.
This is an edited extract from Chetna’s Easy Baking with
@chetnamakan
a twist of spice by Chetna Makan (Hachette, $45).

COCONUT AND LIME COOKIES Take a lime-sized portion of dough, 50g stem ginger in syrup, finely
MAKES 18-20 shape into a ball, then flatten slightly. chopped (from gourmet grocers and
“These little cookie treats are a lovely Repeat with remaining dough. Place on health food shops)
combination of zesty lime and chewy prepared trays and bake for 15 minutes.
coconut, all of which comes together with Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. FOR THE ICING
the chocolate both within and on top of Meanwhile, make the icing. Break the 300g full-fat cream cheese
the cookies. You can even try dipping chocolate into a heatproof bowl, add the 1/4 cup (60g) soft light brown sugar

them in white chocolate or some caramel.” butter and set it over a saucepan of Finely grated zest of 1 lime, plus extra
simmering water until melted (make sure to decorate
100g unsalted butter, softened the bowl does not touch the water). Dip Handful of pecans, roughly chopped
100g caster sugar one side of the biscuits in the chocolate
50g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids) and sprinkle coconut on top. Set aside Preheat the oven to 200°C. Prick the
20g creamed coconut, grated (from to set, then serve. Store biscuits in an potatoes all over with a sharp knife, then
health food stores and online, airtight container for 3-4 days. oil them and place them on a baking tray
substitute finely shredded coconut) lined with foil. Bake for 50 minutes until
Finely grated zest of 1 lime, plus 1 tbs GINGERED SWEET POTATO softened, then set aside to cool. Once
lime juice TRAY BAKE cooled, peel and mash with a fork (you
40g desiccated coconut SERVES 8-10 need roughly 200g of pulp in total).
220g plain flour “I am not a big fan of sweet potato in Oil a 30cm x 20cm cake pan and line
savoury dishes, but it works a treat in this it with non-stick baking paper. Reduce
FOR THE ICING recipe. It makes the cake moist, soft and the oven temperature to 180°C.
50g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids) delicious and you really can’t tell there is In a bowl, combine all dry ingredients
30g unsalted butter sweet potato in there, which for me is a for the cake and mix well. Add the oil and
2 tbs desiccated coconut bonus. Ginger adds warmth to the sweet eggs and whisk with an electric whisk for
cake and a hint of lime gives freshness.” 1 minute. Add the sweet potato pulp and
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Line 2 baking whisk for another minute until creamy and
trays with non-stick baking paper. 2 (600g total) sweet potatoes smooth. Fold in the pecans, lime zest and
Beat butter and sugar with an electric 200ml rapeseed oil, plus more for the stem ginger. Pour batter into prepared pan
whisk for 2 minutes until light and creamy. sweet potatoes and the pan and bake for 35-40 minutes until a skewer
Break chocolate into a heatproof bowl and 200g self-raising flour inserted comes out clean. Cool in pan for
set over a saucepan of simmering water 1/ 2 tsp baking powder 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack.
until melted (make sure the bowl does not 1/ 2 tsp bicarb soda For the icing, combine the cream
touch the water). Remove from the heat. 1/ 2 tsp fine sea salt cheese, sugar and lime zest and spread
Add the creamed coconut, lime zest 250g soft light brown sugar over the cooled cake. Sprinkle the pecans
and juice to the butter mixture and mix 1 tsp ground ginger and extra lime zest on top and serve.
well. Add the desiccated coconut, flour 3 large eggs You can store this in an airtight container
and cooled chocolate and bring together 100g pecans, roughly chopped in the refrigerator for 3-4 days. Bring it
into a soft dough. Knead until smooth. Finely grated zest of 1 lime to room temperature before serving.

126 delicious.com.au
 EXTRACT.

ROSE AND CARDAMOM 1 tsp rosewater rosewater, cardamom, salt and cream
CHEESECAKE 1 tsp ground cardamom and mix well.
SERVES 8-10 1/ 2 tsp fine sea salt Continuing to whisk, slowly add the
“This is inspired by the Spanish Basque 200ml double cream flour, 1 tbs at a time, until everything is
burnt cheesecake that has become more 40g plain flour, sifted well combined. Whisk for 1 minute more,
popular over the last few years, thanks to then pour into the prepared pan.
social media. I love the rustic look of this Preheat the oven to 220°C. Butter a 20cm Place the pan on a baking tray and
cheesecake as well as its very creamy round springform cake pan. Cut a round bake the cheesecake for 40-45 minutes
texture. Adding a light rose and cardamom piece of non-stick baking paper about until the top is browned and the middle
flavour gives Indian-inspired aroma and 5cm bigger than the diameter of the pan is still wobbly. Leave it in the pan to cool
fragrance to this stunning cheesecake.” and its sides. Line the pan with this, completely. The cheesecake will sink and
leaving the excess paper above the pan. set once it has cooled, and that is how it
Unsalted butter, for the pan Put the cream cheese and sugar in a is supposed to be. You can enjoy this at
600g full-fat cream cheese large bowl and mix together until smooth. room temperature, or leave it to chill in
150g golden caster sugar Add 1 egg at a time and whisk with an the refrigerator overnight. Store it in the
4 large eggs electric whisk until combined. Add the refrigerator for 2-3 days.
 E X TR AO RDINARY AUSTR ALIAN

kitchens & bathrooms

A FE A S T O F
I N N OVAT I O N
AND DESIGN

ON SALE NOW
 FROM COAST TO ANCIENT CAPITAL IN PERU 130 >> THE BRUMMIE CHARM OF ENGLAND’S SECOND CITY 136 >>
A HISTORIC RAMBLE THROUGH BOSTON 146 >> CHEF SEAN CONNOLLY’S TOP ISLAND GETAWAY 154
PHOTOGRAPHY EDWINA HART

delicious.com.au 129
 Lima’s genteel Miraflores
district OPPOSITE
(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
LEFT): A Cusco local in
traditional dress holds
a llama; Machu Picchu
appears through the mist; a
band greets Hiram Bingham
passengers; Tambo del Inka

delicious.com.au 131
GLOBAL.

WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK

Classic ceviche: Ceviche is Peru’s most famous dish; raw fish
cured in a zingy marinade (made from lime juice infused with a
kick of aji chilli pepper) known as leche de tigre (tiger’s milk),
traditionally served with thinly sliced onion, sweet potato and a
side of crunchy canchitas (dry-roasted corn kernels). There are
thousands of cevicherias in Lima, but you can’t go wrong with
old-school Canta Rana. If you like the heat, order ‘picante’.
Criollo cooking: Don’t leave Lima without sampling some of
Peru’s distinctive fusion fare. Criollo cooking is a blend of Spanish,
Andean, African and Asian influences, reflecting the country’s
melting pot of cultures. Isolina is a favourite for home-style criolla
food. Over a century ago, Chinese and Japanese migrants arrived
on Peru’s shores to work on the plantations, shaping Peruvian food
traditions today. You can taste this at Isolina in the lomo saltado, a
typical chifa (Cantonese-Peruvian) beef stir-fry with a truly local
twist – fried potatoes. With more than 3,500 types of potatoes in
Peru, spuds are a beloved starchy staple.
‘New Andean’ cuisine: Bring your appetite to Astrid y Gastón
in the ritzy San Idriso district. It’s the flagship restaurant of
celebrity chef-owner Gastón Acurio; a pioneering figure of Lima’s
cutting-edge Novoandina (‘New Andean’) cuisine. Expect creative
mash-ups such as cuy Pekines, in which the Andean speciality of
cuy (guinea pig) is paired with the more familiar Asian flavours of
Peking duck.
Make the pilgrimage to chef Virgilio Martinez’s famed restaurant
Central in Barranco, ranked fourth in the 2021 The World’s 50
Best Restaurants. Central is a celebration of Peruvian identity that
proudly showcases the astonishing biodiversity from the coast,
Amazonian jungle and lofty heights of the Andes.
Pisco sour, por favour: The pisco sour is a source of national
pride. The citrusy-sweet cocktail combines pisco (a grape-based
brandy), lime juice, sugar syrup, egg white and bitters. Resting
on its literary laurels as one of Ernest Hemingway’s old haunts,
Gran Hotel Bolivar is the perfect spot to savour a pisco sour at
the old-fashioned wood-panelled bar.

THE SACRED VALLEY

Set off for Cusco (a one-hour flight from Lima) in the spiritual
heartland of Peru. At a dizzying 3,399m above sea level, the air is
lung-achingly thin. To help acclimate, head straight to the slightly
lower Sacred Valley. Tambo del Inka is an oasis secreted away in
the Valle de Sagrado on the bucolic banks of the Vilcanota River.
The hotel’s design is sympathetic to its surroundings, with
earth-toned furnishings and Incan-style textiles, as well as touches
of stone and natural timber. The Kallpa Spa soothes travellers
with the deep healing powers of the water of the Andes. The
jewel-blue pool is framed by floor-to-ceiling windows, so that
you’re always connected with Pachamama (Mother Earth).

WHAT TO SEE
The Andean village of Chinchero, mythologised by the Incas as
the birthplace of the rainbow, is renowned for its brightly hued

132 delicious.com.au
 “SET OFF FOR CUSCO IN THE
SPIRITUAL HEARTLAND OF PERU.”
handicrafts. Visit Indigenous Quechua weaver Nilda Callañaupa situated in the main square of Cusco. Venture inside to see The
Alvarez and her cooperative of local women in their textile Last Supper (1753). The iconic biblical scene is depicted by
workshop the Away Riqcharicheq Weaving Association, where Peruvian Quechua painter, Marcos Zapata. Look closely for a
threads made from alpaca and llama wool are dyed using natural curious addition to the menu – Jesus and his disciples feast on
materials such as flowers and crushed insects. roasted cuy, which can be seen lying paws-up on a plate. This
delicacy has been eaten in Peru since pre-Inca times.
MACHU PICCHU
Hop onboard the handsome Belmond Hiram Bingham train at WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK
Ollantaytambo for a bucket list journey to Machu Picchu, winding Mercado San Pedro: Spend your nuevo soles at Cusco’s lively
through the majestic scenery towards the ancient citadel. market, brimming with unusual produce such as alpaca charqui
The train’s design evokes a bygone era, with striking antique (jerky) and herbs used in age-old shamanic rituals.
fittings. The aroma of delicious Andean ingredients fills the 1920s Fine dining in the Andes: Soak up the ambiance of the artists’
Pullman-style carriages as you enjoy a lavish three-course lunch. quarter of San Blas in the sunny courtyard of MAP Café. The
Afterwards, mosey down to the bar car. dishes are almost too pretty to eat, such as the cured paiche
Arrive at the town of Aguas Calientes, nestled in a gorge (a giant Amazonian freshwater fish) with exotic citrus fruits from
beneath a cloud forest filled with fluttering butterflies and the jungle – cherry-like camu camu and cocona (peach tomato).
hundreds of species of orchids. Follow in the footsteps of the Save room for dessert featuring corn from the valley of the Incas
Incas and see for yourself why Machu Picchu is one of the Seven with tres leches corn cake and caramelised popcorn ice cream.
Wonders of the World. The mysterious ruins are magnificently Coca leaf tea: Coca leaves were sacred to the Incas, revered for
cradled between the mist-shrouded peaks of the Andes their medicinal properties. The bitter-tasting coca leaf tea is
Mountains. Splurge on a night at Belmond Sanctuary Lodge served as a natural remedy for altitude sickness.
with its unrivalled position a stone’s throw from the ruins.
WHERE TO STAY
CUSCO The elegantly appointed Palacio del Inka hotel looks like a
Once the capital of a vast empire, Cusco is the traditional gateway Spanish parador with a touch of Peruvian flair. Meanwhile,
to Machu Picchu. The name derives from a Quechua word Belmond’s inimitable properties are tucked away in the artisan
meaning ‘navel’ of the Earth. A rich combination of Inca stonework quarter of San Blas. Belmond Hotel Monasterio feels like a living
(once dripping in gold) and centuries-old Spanish architecture lay museum within an historic monastery, while Belmond Palacio
the foundation of this charming city. The sound of pan flutes floats Nazarenas next door is straight out of a fairytale. The restored
along cobblestone streets as rural Andean women dressed in 17th-century palace boasts oxygen-enriched rooms for a
exquisitely embroidered skirts roam with llamas in tow. rejuvenating night’s sleep.

WHAT TO SEE The writer visited in February 2020 and was a guest of Azamara,
The 16th-century Cathedral Basilica is built over an Inca palace Coltur Peru, Marriott and Belmond.

134 delicious.com.au
 “THE MYSTERIOUS
RUINS ARE CRADLED
BETWEEN THE MIST-
SHROUDED PEAKS OF
THE ANDES .”
CITY GUIDE.

BIRMIN
The grand Birmingham
Town Hall is a landmark
of Victoria Square at
the heart of the city
NGHAM and its gourmet groove
England’s ‘Second City’ promises to put on an unforgettable party when it hosts the
Commonwealth Games this year, writes Kerry Parnell. It’s the perfect excuse to discover
Birmingham’s rough-hewn charms and sample its booming culinary and cultural scene.
PHOTOGRAPHY CLAIRE MENARY

delicious.com.au 137
138 delicious.com.au
 T
“BRITAIN’S
‘SECOND CITY’ IS
ABOUT TO TAKE
TOP POSITION
WHEN IT HOSTS THE
COMMONWEALTH
GAMES IN JULY.”
CITY GUIDE.

Instead, he creatively seasons his food At the other end of the scale, in its
with indigenous ingredients, many grown own sphere, is Michelin-starred Opheem
on his own allotment. by another passionate Brummie, chef
Every course of the tasting menu is a Aktar Islam.
flavour explosion, from the monkfish liver “Having the choice of living anywhere
and Exmoor caviar amuse-bouche, to his in the world, I choose to live here, I love
superb Birmingham Soup, a beef Birmingham,” he says.
consommé with tartare of ox heart, But what he loves even more is the
seasonal veg and a lattice tuile mimicking challenge of creating progressive Indian
the design of the Library of Birmingham. cuisine, on a par with perhaps only two
Everything is thought out and nothing other restaurants in the world: Masque
is wasted in this sustainable restaurant, in Mumbai and Haoma in Bangkok.
even the tableware is made by a local “We are all about taking the aura of a
potter using ashes from the kitchen’s dish and instilling a spirit into it,” he says,
barbecue and, until it was damaged in a maintaining he doesn’t make food to look
flood, the flour came from nearby good, only taste good. But that’s being
Sarehole Mill, a watermill which inspired modest, because dishes such as his Aloo
local author J.R.R. Tolkien’s Middle Earth. Tuk manage to do both. The humble
It’s not all fine dining, Birmingham is achaari pink fir potato is manipulated five
also famous for a completely different ways to produce a dish I’d be happy to
cuisine: the curry. And true to style, even eat on its own for the rest of my life.
that has been turned into an art form. Thankfully, after all this curry, I discover
The Balti Triangle is home to the city’s another benefit of Birmingham is its
favourite dish – the balti. Invented in the walkability. The city centre is easy to
late 1970s by local curry houses, the dish stroll around from my base in the
is cooked and served in a special balti heritage The Grand Hotel, a former
bowl, a kind of mini wok. Grand Dame of the city overlooking
At Shababs, one of the remaining few Cathedral Square, which hosted
Balti houses, owner Zafar Hussain gives everyone from Charlie Chaplin to
me a quick – and I mean quick – cooking Winston Churchill and Malcolm X and has
demonstration of the perfect balti, which now been lovingly brought back to life.
is cooked at extremely high temperature With knowledgeable local tour guide
and eaten from the same bowl. It’s Mary Moore, I wander everywhere, from
basically a stir-fry, with spices including the iconic Library of Birmingham, the
paprika, cumin and turmeric. His version cultural hub of the city with its delightful
is surprisingly light, which he credits to secret garden, along the canal to Brindley
using vegetable oil over ghee. “It’s going Place, a pretty waterside area of eateries
to clog your arteries, otherwise” he says. that comes alive at night, and around the
While the Balti Triangle once catered historic Jewellery Quarter.
to post-pub diners, times are changing All this activity is punctuated with
along with consumers’ tastes – and so pit-stops at some of the city’s excellent
I head back to the city for a completely independent coffee shops, including
different Indian food experience. Mowgli industrial cafe and roastery Quarter
Street Food in Grand Central shopping Horse Coffee on Bristol St and local
centre is part of a burgeoning chain by favourite Faculty Coffee in pretty
innovative entrepreneur Nisha Katona of Piccadilly Arcade, which rotates its beans
tiffin-style fast-food restaurants which every two weeks. Then there’s Medicine
use super-fresh ingredients, much of Bakery, with its Instagrammable cronuts.
them vegetarian and vegan. The Mowgli This artisan, ethical bakery mixes food
Paneer, with its velvety cheese and soft with art in beautiful and surprising
spices, is delicious, as is house ‘show- industrial spaces.
stopper’ the Bunny Chow, a tangy chicken Which pretty much sums up
and potato curry served on a bread loaf. Birmingham, really.

140 delicious.com.au
 CLOCKWISE, THIS
PAGE: Opheem;
Quarter Horse Coffee;
Birmingham Cathedral;
urban canals; Medicine
Bakery cronuts;
industrial cafe chic;
Library of Birmingham;
plated at Opheem
(centre) OPPOSITE:
PAGE: Shababs
T H E OF F
S E AS O N
I S O PE N
TO JUST ABOUT
ANYTHING

→
Hot destinations, cool stays, travel essentials
& everything in transit.

HOT SHOT
Capture travel memories
hands-free with the new
Canon PowerShot PICK
($629). This palm-sized
camera automatically tilts
and pans to track a subject,
which frees you up to enjoy
your trip. canon.com.au

GREENER
PASTURES
Go off grid in style at Op
Oost. Tucked away on Texel
Island in the Netherlands,
the 18th-century former farm
and seaweed barn is the
latest addition to Small
Luxury Hotels of the World’s
Considerate Collection.
The eco-conscious 12-room, CARRY ON
adults-only hotel offers Made from native botanicals
activities like field foraging such as tea tree, eucalyptus,
and horse riding, meanwhile aniseed myrtle and rosalina,
Restaurant het Kook Atelier mixed with sandalwood and Edited by Rosemary Slade @somestylishchick
dishes up Nordic cuisine lavender, Meluka Australia
that embraces a ‘served Wanderer Travel Mist ($25) is
DELICIOUS.COM.AU/TRAVEL Go online for more
by nature’ philosophy. a multitasking must-pack. travel news from Australia and around the world.
slh.com/hotels/op-oost melukaaustralia.com.au

144 delicious.com.au
 B O S TO N
M A S S AC H U S E T T S

146 delicious.com.au
 POSTCARD.

Discover Beacon
Hill’s historic
charm on narrow
cobblestoned
streets

There’s something special in the air of the

city affectionately known as ‘Beantown’,
discovers Jenny Wisniewski, as she takes
in some of Boston’s most iconic stops.

ON WARM DAYS in Boston’s North End, a mild, sweet aroma is

said to waft through the coastal air. This scent, if it exists, is not
the product of the town’s famed baked beans. Instead, locals
claim, it is the enduring legacy of The Great Molasses Flood.
It was January 1919 when a 40-foot wave of hot, sticky molasses
violently escaped from its faulty 50-foot-high warehouse tank and
poured onto the streets, crushing people, animals, and buildings.
The molasses was intended for a nearby rum distillery in the last
days before Prohibition. Instead, it killed 21 and injured 150.
Now a part of Boston lore, we are regaled with the tale of the
Great Molasses Flood while passing through the North End on a
Segway tour. Over the next days in the depths of a sultry July, we
discover more folklore and local flavour as we explore the North
End, charming Beacon Hill and historical downtown Boston.

THE NORTH END

It’s the peak of a hot New England summer, so the lively (and
mercifully air-conditioned) Boston Sail Loft beckons for an iced
tea and lunch. The weathered clapboard structure sits perched
on a wharf with bobbing sailboats in eyeshot, and is said to
boast some of the best fish and chips in Boston. It’s obvious
why: the breading is delicate with a slight hint of cinnamon, and
the cod is succulent and fresh. The clam chowder is also a
winner – a cream-based stew filled with potatoes, clams and
the distinct taste of dill, it arrives overflowing in a mug.
Following an afternoon spent wandering around the New
England Aquarium, home to a four-storey ocean tank filled with
nearly 1,000 sea creatures, the almost 90 Italian restaurants that
dot the district await to calm our hunger pangs. Despite the
number of options, an empty table can be hard to come by in
Boston’s ‘Little Italy’. Fortunate, then, that we have a reservation
at Trattoria Il Panino, where our Naples-born waiter serves us
calamari fritti, homemade pastas and a glass or two of Chianti.
 CLOCKWISE: Boston’s port; the iconic
pushcarts; market produce; Faneuil Hall;
Boston Public Garden OPPOSITE: Millions
visit Faneuil Hall Marketplace a year
PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY IMAGES

delicious.com.au 149
AGENDA.

ON THE AGENDA
Treat yourself to the latest must-have products, experiences and ideas from our
advertisers, from essential ingredients to clever appliances.

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150 delicious.com.au
delicious.com.au
 WALK THIS WAY
Despite its impressive length, the Cape
to Cape Track can be tackled by nearly
any willing walker. Tour operators like
Walk Into Luxury offer guided walks
combining the best parts of the Track
with luxury accommodation and
dining experiences.

JOURNEY ALONG THE TRACK. Get planning at wanderoutyonder.com.au.

 JUNE
2022
INDEX

79
STARTERS,
62
SIDES & LIGHT
MEALS
Calamari with ouzo mayo and
oregano salt ..................................... p 68
“THE HUMBLE
Creamy milk and roast garlic soup with SNAG IS A
Manchego and green olive toast (V) .. p 84
Cuchifrito (fried pork) with preserved
GLOBAL WONDER
lemon salsa ...................................... p 84 WITH SO MUCH
Dolmeh (stuffed vine leaves) (V) ........ p 110
Fatayer (cheese pastries) (V) .............. p 113
TO OFFER.”
Gouda, cauliflower & potato bake (V) ..p 38 – GEORGIE ESDAILE
Hake croquetas .................................... p 86
Kakavia (fisherman’s soup) ................... p 68
Oven fries with tahini yoghurt and
smoky-sweet nuts (V) ........................p 36
Peri peri chicken wings ........................ p 94
Pork rillettes with radishes ................... p 17
Poutine ................................................ p 81
Satay ayam (satay chicken) .................. p 52
Tiropita (cheese pie) (V) ....................... p 79
Tomato keftedes (tomato fritters) (V) ... p 73
Tort man pla (fish cakes with
cucumber pickle) ........................... p 104
Venison, orange & fig terrine .............. p 18
Yum aepbpeern (green apple and
crispy dried anchovy salad) ............ p 103

152 delicious.com.au
 52
SWEET THINGS
Baghlava ........................................... p 114
Candied orange & ricotta sfogliatelle .. p 122
“THERE IS
BEAUTY IN THE
98
Caramel sponge pudding (South SIMPLICITY OF
African malva dessert) ...................... p 99
Cardamom and orange dumplings
THIS SOUTH
(bread dumplings) ............................ p 89 AFRICAN TART.”
Cheese & cherry strudel .................... p 120
– WARREN MENDES
Chocolate, coconut & peanut cake ... p 125
Cider-glazed apple galette ................ p 120
Coconut and lime cookies ................. p 126
Ghotab (walnut & cardamom
filled pastry) ................................... p 122
Gingered sweet potato tray bake ...... p 126
Milk tart ............................................... p 98
Passionfruit creme brulee .....................p 20
Pistachio kataifi .................................. p 120
Revani (Greek semolina cake) .............. p 73
Rhubarb & custard danishes .............. p 122
Rose and cardamom cheesecake ...... p 127

OFFICIAL TEST KITCHEN SUPPLIER: (v) denotes vegetarian recipe

Our meat is supplied by Vic’s Meat (vicsmeat.com.au).

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delicious.com.au 153
WAIHEKE WAY

CLOCKWISE: Man O’ War

winery; The Oyster Inn;
Sean Connolly; wine and
bites at Man O’ War;
Mudbrick Vineyard
& Restaurant

154 delicious.com.au
delicious.com.au
 NEW HORIZONS IN TRAVEL

SKIING
COLORADO’S
ROCKY

ALOHA
MOUNTAINS

HAWAII
Get ready to rediscover paradise
GLAMPING
ON LADY
MUSGRAVE
ISLAND

+ 9
Luxury
superyacht
holidays

O N SA L E N OW
THE UNMISTAKABLE
TASTE OF ITALY