FUSING

MACHINES

Submitted By:

Amita Kashyap (BFT/20/230)

Kanika Kargeti (BFT/20/215)
Mehul Chandra (BFT/20/198)
Pratik Kadukar (BFT/20/829)
Srijana Kashyap (BFT/20/453)
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We would like to express our special thanks and gratitude

to our SCAP Faculty Mr. S. Ray for their guidance and
support in completing our Project.

Last but not the least we would like to thank each other
who gave equal efforts in completion of this report.

DATE: Amita Kashyap

08/10/12 Kanika Kargeti
Mehul Chandra
Pratik Kadukar
Srijana Kashyap
 CONTENT
1. Methods of Joining Materials

2. Why Fusing?

3. What is Fusible Interlining?

4. Technology of Fusing Press

5. Fusing Press

6. Fusing Equipment (Hand iron, Steam Presses, Flat-Bed

Presses, Carousel, Spot Welder, Stackers, Continuous
Fusing Presses)

7. New Developments (High Frequency Fusing Press, Direct

Stabilization)
 CONTENT
8. How to choose the right fusing machine?

9.Accessories of a Fusing Machine (Base Frame, Support

for Creasing Devices, Unwinding and Winding device,
Automatic Lay-Up Stacker, Unloading Slide)

10.Feeding System

11.Quality Control

12.Brands manufacturing fusing machines

13.Use of Fusibles for Mass-Produced Clothes

14. References
METHODS OF JOINING
MATERIALS

Sewing is a dominant process in the field of joining

interlining with the garment.

• However, processes have been developed as

alternatives to sewing. the introduction of these
processes change the way garments are designed,
constructed and assembled.

•Some of the processes are:

1. Fusing,
2. Welding and Adhesives,
3. Moulding.

This assignment is focused on the fusing process.

 WHAT IS FUSING?

Fusing is the process where the wrong side of the

fashion garment panel is fused with thermoplastic resin
and can be bonded with another strip of fabric by the
proper application of pressure and heat at a specific
temperature and time.

WHAT IS FUSIBLE INTERLINING?

The fusible interlining consists of a base cloth, and

carries on its surface a thermoplastic adhesive resin,
usually in the form of small dots, which will melt when
heated to a specific temperature.
 INTERLINING

Fusible Non-Fusible
Woven

Non-Woven

Knitted

Purpose of Interlining:

1) To make sewing easier and to increase throughput.

2) Maintaining shape and improving appeal of the garment.
3)Making a functional, easy to wear product.
 Example of fusible interlining

(When fused to the waistband and sewn to a skirt along one line
of slots, the band will fold more easily in the correct positions to
give the correct width.)

Waistband folded along

line of slots

Skirt lining
attached
along line of
Waistband attached along slots
line of slots

Interlining fused to
waistband

Skirt Waistband with Slotted interlining

 FUSING PROCESS
The elements of the fusing process are temperature and
pressure, applied over a particular period of time on a fusing
machine.

1) First, by increasing the temperature at the "glue line", the resin

changes its state from dry solid to a viscous fluid.
2) By applying pressure, the molten state of glue will combine with

the fibers in the main fashion fabric.

3) After that, rapid cooling is done, which solidifies the glue and
forms a durable bond between the two fabric panels.

Technology of Fusing Process

The technology of Fusing Process demands a specific combination

of the following parameters:
(a) The fusing method
– Single Fusing, Reverse Fusing, Sandwich Fusing, Double Fusing,
Top Fusing

(b) The fusing machine

– Flat-bed Press, Continuous Operation

(c) The components of fusing

– Temperature, Time, Pressure, Cooling
Fusing Methods
Fusing mainly has 3 diffrent methods - Reverse Fusing,
Sandwich Fusing, Double Fusing.
 1. REVERSE FUSING

In this process, the fabric of interlining is spread on the fusing bed

and the part consists of resin is directed upward. Then the fabric of
garments is spread on the resonated part of fabric and fusing is
done there. This is called reverse fusing. In this process, the area of
interlining is comparatively small than the fabric of apparel, as a
result proper spreading is difficult here.

Reverse Fuse

Resin Substrate Top Cloth

 2. SANDWICH FUSING

Generally, fusing is done by continuous fusing machine where the

heat is applied from both sides of fabric. In this process, two pairs of
fabrics are fused i.e. the two interlinings are placed between or in
the middle of two fabrics of apparel. If the heat and pressure are not
applied properly then four layers may be joined due to the effect of
striking back during fusing. By using this process, the production can
be increased but needs more time. It may have unsatisfactory in
fused garments.

Sandwich Fuse

Resin Substrate Top Cloth

 3. DOUBLE FUSING

In this process, two types of interlining are joined with the garment
fabrics in a step during fusing. There is needed to control the
temperature during fusing and it must be able to set the interlinings
parts and garment parts properly. This type of fusing is generally
done in collar and the front part of jacket.

Double Fuse

Resin Substrate Top Cloth

 FUSING
EQUIPMENT
 FUSING PRESS

Presses can be broadly categorized into two types based on their

modes of operation.

(a) Fusing of Assemblies on a flat bed in a Static situation.

(b) Continuous Conveying through a press where heating, fusing

and cooling is done without stopping.

Presses can be described as Flat-bed or continuous, irrespective of

the size or complexity.

Flat bed Continious

 HAND PRESS

Hand irons are an appropriate method of fusing where the

interlinings could be fused at comparatively low temperatures and
pressures and in a relatively short time period. But only small
components can be fused in this system (Cooklin 2006; Fairhurst
2008).

Iron
 STEAM PRESS

Steam presses are generally used by the factories which cannot

invest in the correct equipment. These machines are not designed
for fusing but are used for this purpose.

There are some limitations of this method:

1. They are usually unable to reach the heat levels required by most
resins.
2. The fusing of small parts is restricted due to the uneven pressure
over the full back area.
3. The time element is completely dependent on the operater
because of the absence of timers and programme controls in the
older type of steam presses.

Steam Press
 FLAT-BED PRESS
In this machine, there are generally two beds; one bed is static
called ‘BUCK,’ and the other is moveable called ‘HEAD.’ Firstly the
part of the garments, which is for fusing, is placed flatly on the
'BUCK'. Then the resin surface of the interlining is placed
carefully on this. Then, the HEAD moves downward and comes
in contact with BUCK and creates pressure on the component
(interlining). Temperature is applied through HEAD on the whole
surface, and after a specific time, the HEAD moves upward.
Thus, the fusing is complete.

Advantages:
Temperature, pressure, and fusing time can be set again as per
will.
Except for pile fabrics, mostly for all fabrics, this machine can be
used.
Low cost.
The natural ironing of garments can also be done with this
machine.
Tends to reduce fabric shrinkage.
Easily cleanable.

Disadvantages:
Not suitable for large scale production.
To get good quality fusing, the temperature, pressure, and
fusing time has to be checked.
Sometimes HEADS and BUCKS have to be changed.
 Flat bed fusing press.

Vertical action. Scissor action

(i) (ii)

Working of Machinery of Flat bed Fusing

Press.

Garment which is to be The tray is then pused

Fusing Finally, the tray is removed
fused is placed on a tray into the location where
cycle from the fusing machine.
with the interlining. the garment will be fused.
complete
 FLAT-BED PRESSES

Single Tray Systems Twin Tray Systems

Both are fitted with device that automatically causes non- sticky fabric
to roll over unfused assemblies as tray moves towards fusing area.
(This fabric ensures fusibles are held in position)

Single Tray Systems Twin Tray Systems

Types of Flat-bed press

Types of Flat-bed press
 CAROUSEL (FLAT-BED PRESS)

• Another type of flat-

bed press is in the
form of a carousel, it
contains three trays
that move through
loading, fusing and
cooling stations
successively.

• It is generally used
for 'top fusing' of shirt
and blouse collars.

SPOT WELDER (FLAT-BED PRESS)

Spot Welder
Used in conjunction with ‘top-fusing’ method.
 STACKERS

Stacker

This type of flat-bed press is used to fuse bundles without disturbing

the bundle formation. It incorporates two moving bucks. It lets the
operator prepare for the next assembly while the previous one is
being fused.

Advantages:
Higher productivity
Collars and cuffs stacked for precise bundling
Suitable for Lean Production Lines
CONTINUOUS FUSING
PRESSES
It is based on the principle where the unit for fusing is
transported through the fusing processes by means of
a powered conveyor belt.

These machines are examined for

(a) Conveyor Type (End-to-end feed or return feed)
(b) Cover Belts
(c) Heating (Heating Plates or Cylinder Heating)
(d) Pressure
(e) Cooling (Air or Water)
(f) Take-off Systems (Manual or Mechanical)

Continuous Fusing Press

• Advantages:
– Reduces troubles related to fusing pile fabric consisting of velvet.
– More operators can work on the same machine.
– When Continuous work is to be carried out, for example: fusing
waistbands.

• Disadvantages:
– Takes large space.
– Fabrics at risk of heat shrinkage are probable to shrink more.

Conveyer Type

End-to-end feed Return Feed

 CONVEYOR TYPE
• The conveyor system consists of two belts, one upper and one
lower. The lower belt is the actual conveyor of cloth and fusibles.
• Function of Upper/Cover Belt : Ensure that both cloth and
fusibles are held appropriately in accurate positions at the same
time as being transported through fusing process.
• Speed of both belts must be in sync to prevent compression or
extension of the materials.

Precautions while using the belt

• Interlinings must not be overlaped, otherwise they might soil the

conveyor belt.
• If very high temperatures are set, it might cause resin strike back
and soiling of the conveyor belt.
• Cleaning agents must be used carefully, with the intention to keep
them away from build-up on belt inside, rollers or heating
elements.
• Covers or towels of cleaning bars or cleaning devices should be
checked and replaced regularly.
• Transfer and strip-off blades need to be cleaned in regular
intervals from resin and dust build-up.
• The machine must be cleaned before shut-down
• Tracking and Tension of the belts should be checked and
readjusted often, if required.
 HEATING
Heating system

Heating CylinderHeating

• Two Heating Surfaces • Two parts: Inner and outer

located above cover belt and cylinder.
other below conveyor belt. • Heat generated by inner
• Slightly arched surfaces to core is evenly distributed all
increase heat diffusion. over the cylinder mantle.
• Both panels are controlled
separately. It permits any
temperature profile to be
achieved.
 TEMPERATURE

The temperature of the resin should be optimum as high a

temperature leads to too viscous a resin and too low
temperature does not allow the resin to penetrate into the top
fabric. Diffrent resins along with there uses and fusing
temperature has been mentioned below.

Resin Specification Application Fusing Temperature

Used for all garments that are dry 120 - 160°C

Polyamide Used for a wide range applications
cleanable

Poly Vinyl Chloride For imparting soft finish Specially suitable for high GSM fabrics 130 - 160°C

High density polyethylene It is resistant to all kinds of washing and Suitable for top fusing of shirts 150 - 180°C
cleaning

Low density polyethylene It can be fused by iron Provides only temporary fusing 130 - 160°C

Ethylene vinyl acid

It can be fused by iron Temporary fusing 120 - 150°C
copolymer (EVA)

Mostly used when polyester based fabrics For polyester garments 130 - 160°C
Polyester are used
 TIME

The time period is a very decisive element during the fusing

process. The top fabric and interlining material are kept under
the influence of heat and pressure in the heating region of the
fusing machine. This time of fusing for a specific fusible is
primarily based totally on :

a. Melting temperature of the resin used

b. Weight of the interlining

c. The nature and construction of top fabric used (thick or thin,

dense or open)

PRESSURE

• During heating and plasticizing stages, only a slight pressure is

exerted onto the components.
• Full pressure is applied to effect the final bonding after
components have been heated to correct temperature.
 COOLING

Air Cooling

Water Cooling

The fused elements are carried over the cooling area with the aid
of using a separate conveyor band on the way to save you
needless cooling of the principle conveyor belts.
 TAKE-OFF SYSTEMS

Take-off System

Manual system Mechanical system

Through rotation of strip-off device along the upper belt,

pieces adhering to the belt are gently and effectively
removed .
NEW DEVELOPMENTS IN
FUSING MACHINE
Two major innovations in fusing technology developed in
recent years are:
(a) High-frequency fusing, and
(b) Direct stabilization

HIGH FREQUENCY FUSING

PRESS

High Frequency Fusing Press

Heat is generated within the materials to be fused by passing

them through a high frequency alternating electric field.
• Due to differing dielectric properties, adhesives attain a higher
temperature than the cloth.
• Thus, it is claimed, fusing can be achieved with a significantly
lower temperature of the top cloth, which helps to avoid heat
stress in the fabric.
• Capable of fusing stacks of components about 10cm deep
(multiple sandwich method).
• Productive machine.
Advantages:
– Possibility of eliminating shrinkage and colour changes.
– Heat generated by high frequency and not electric heating
element.
– Less pressure needed than conventional fusing presses.

DIRECT STABILIZATION

Polymer Paste Printing for Direct Stabilization

 Direct Stabilization

• Stabilization material is printed directly onto top-cloth, without the

use of fusible interlinings.
• Printing can be done in any direction in relation to top cloth, thus
providing more resiliency in specific areas of garment.
• Advantages:
– Savings in fusible interlinings.
– Versatility in handling of different types of application.
– Elimination of nearly all work connected with cutting fusibles.
– Reduction of storage space and logistic problems.
 HOW TO CHOOSE THE
RIGHT FUSING MACHINE

Capacity: Different fusing machine vary in production capacity. One

need to buy the fusing machine according to the production
capacity of the factory.

Loading: Fusing machines can have different mechanism for

loading the garment into the machine eg: trays or conveyor belt.
Thus, one needs to look at the loading mechanism of the machine
before buying.

Safety: Modern fusing machine also incorporate safety features to

indicate wrong positioning of garment, emergency stop button etc.

Cooling: One needs to look at the cooling system supplied with the
fusing machine, like how much time is required for cooling and if the
cooling is effective or not.
Cleaning: Through the normal cycles of operation, the fusing

machine belts and plates will accumulate adhesive residue. Thus

regular cleaning is required. One needs to look that if the machine

cleans itself automatically, or technician is required to clean the

machine.

Space and Location: Fusing machines can have diffrent sizes,

thus one needs to analyze his/her factory floors and find the

perfect size of the fusing machine which will fit. Some fusing

machines have rollers attach to it, thus there location can be

changed according to needs.

Instrumentation: Fusing machines are fitted with instruments to

read temperature, pressure, time etc. Some advance system also

include warning systems. Thus, one needs to select the machine

with right instrumentation.

Service: The after sale services provided by the company is a

important factor to look for while buying any product. Same goes

for fusing machines.

Maintenance: Regular maintenance cost is also a dettering factor

while buying any product. A fusing machine which is little bit

costlier than its counterpart, but has less maintenance cost, is

better for the long run.

Cost: Total cost of buying and installing a fusing machine is one of

the main factor which helps in comparing different products.

ACCESSORIES OF
A FUSING
EQUIPMENT
 BASE FRAME

The machine frame can be fitted with height adjustable legs

or optional transport wheels for easier moving.

UNWINDING AND WINDING

DEVICES

These devices help in fusing of

trousers and skirt waistbands,

without disturbing the product

integrity.
 AUTOMATIC LAY-UP STACKER

Can be retrofitted or factory installed. This stacker

straightens and stacks fused assemblies.

UNLOADING SLIDE

Unloading slide helps in

accommodating large and

small fused assemblies for

cooling.
 FEEDING SYSTEM

Extended
Feeding Belt Separate
Feeding Belt
Loading and
Fusing Belt

Right
Mounting

Center
Mounting

Left
Mounting
 QUALITY CONTROL

Fusible interlinings are precision products and it is essential that

they are fused on the cprrect equipment and under strict control.
Two test perform to judge the quality of fusing has been discussed
below:

Peel-Strength Test: This test checks the strength of the bond

between the top cloth and the inter-lining, the force required to
pull them apart is compared to standard for that particular cloth
and fusible. The force required to separate them are measured
using an instrument called tensometer, or simply using a good
spring balance.

Dry-clean and/or wash: It is a common standard to test the

fused garment is able to withstand regular wash care. Thus, one
garment in each cloth and fusible combination are tested at least
once every two working weeks.
COMMON FUSING
DEFECTS
 BRANDS
MANUFACTURING
FUSING MACHINES
 1. BRAND : VEIT
FX DIAMOND 1000 / 1400

Long entry belt for an intensive usage of the machine through

several people.
Long heating zones allow higher belt speeds.
Extra space for loading / unloading in the entry and output
area.
Strong heating elements with heat/power reserves.
Automatic belt stop in the case of deviation from the
temperature tolerances.
Effective heat utilisation due to encapsulation of heating zone.
Reduced energy consumption due to optimal belt guidance.
 AX 450

Full-fledged fusing for small production runs, labs or assembly

lines.
Requires no compressed air
Single phase electrical connection
Rolling stand design
Can be used for partial fusing
Separate upper and lower heat zones
Unique in its class, a diagnostic system for heating elements,
motor control and belt control
Set/actual temperature monitoring.
2. BRAND : HASHIMA
HP-1200LS

The Seamless Belt is adopted as Standard and it promises

Long Life.
The Big Pressurization Roller assures Uniform High Pressure .
The Horizontal Pressurization prevents Puckering.
The Cooling Fan will make Cool Down the Fused Material
immediately.
As the Tension Rollers, are adopted on the Back of the belts,
Fabrics or extra interlining
never twine around the tension roller, therefore fabric will be
never damaged by twined fabrics or interlining.
 HP-450M
Compact fusing machine, ideal for small startups, with medium
production capacity.
Automatic belt warping prevention device.
Adjustable Belt width.
Adopted rubber driving roller for non-slip driving.
3. BRAND : NGAI SHING

NS-5612B-1000

Ultra long heating area with total 12 groups of upper & lower
heaters and thermostats; accurate temperature control and
high efficiency.
Adaptable roller and conveying belt design, adjustable
conveying speed, capable of fusing garment pieces of different
length.
Loading platform has material stands, and material loading can
be performed at 2 sies at the same time.
Collecting table is suitable for long or large garment pieces
such as shirt front placket or suit front etc.
 4. BRAND : WELCO

AG-700
Low temperature – high pressure technology for that enables
fast glue line penetration for optimum bonding to prevent any
kind of distortion even on delicate fabrics
Fully Automatic pneumatic belt control system that ensures
that belt will not lean and run smoothly without any problems.
Double silicon roller
Precise speed and pressure digital controls.
Individual on off system for lower heaters for fusing of sensitive
fabrics where lower heating is not required.
Auto Stop: Automatic Cooling System which cools the machine
before completely stopping to prevent the belts from burning
or getting damaged.
Belt Cleaner System attached.
 5. BRAND : UNITECH

SFM-460

Electronic thermostat for accurate temperature control

Belt guide with snap as the belts do not to move left or right.
Belt structures ensure no wrinkles for all sort of fusing.
 Max – 900 LCS 3P

Snake Shape device eliminates deviation

Steady pneumatic press system
Transcalent Teflon belt, Single, Double sides press, new
stripping system
With auto stop and manual stop functions.
 6. BRAND : PMM

PMM-600SC-C

With preheating system

Double-sided fusing is provided
Cooling device allow the material to stay in-shape
Easy to operate with low maintenance
Automatic belt adjustment
Able to be heated up in a short period of time (12
minutes to 180 degree
 7. BRAND : OSHIMA

OP-1600

The air pressure system together with the special-

made pressure roller, ensure the precise pressure.
12 sets of special-made heating equipments minimize
the temperature differences.
Vacuum cooling system at the end of machine.
Rotary Strip-off device for strengthening the cleaning
function and avoid transforming of the finished fabrics.
 8. BRAND : ASTEX

Astex 3024SC

Used for Dress Shirt collars and Cuffs

Dual, digital heat control, top and bottom

Front loading table
Cool down timer
Endless Teflon belting system
Anti-pleating roller
Pneumatic pressure control
Solid state speed control
Return-to-Operator cooling conveyor - reduces
operator fatigue
 Astex 6800SC

Dual, digital heat control, top and bottom

Front loading table
Cool down timer
Endless Teflon belting system
Anti-pleating roller
Pneumatic pressure control
Solid state speed control
Return-to-Operator cooling conveyor - reduces
operator fatigue
9. BRAND : MARTIN GROUP

75/2C/5
Used for Dress Shirt collars and Cuffs

Electronic control of whole equipment

High pressure (till 5kg./cmq.) which guarantees a very
high quality even for heavier productions
Two working planes to avoid dead times
Normal fusing
Open Top 70-100-124-140-160-180

Equipped with back exit belt for retrieving adhesive

fabric.
Double heating system with preheating that allows to
fuse using temperatures slightly below average.
“Sandwich” also excellent for the most delicate fabrics.
Pressure system with selector of the “OUT” device that
allows to thermoadhesive the most delicate fabrics at
zero pressure.
Equipped with return belt: it allows to collect the fused
fabrics in the front part of the machine
Leather Fusing Machine Model EMS 120

Electronic control is used for the equipment.

Electromagnetic closing of plane, it guarantees
accuracy of pressure.
Automatic opening of the plane at the end of the
planned working cycle.
“Safe hands" safety system.
Without Compressed air
USE OF FUSIBLES FOR MASS-
PRODUCED CLOTHES

Advantages For the Manufacturer

Garments can be produced with a consistent quality of
interlining construction.
Time and labour costs are saved by eliminating the
hand and machine operations required to attach the
interlining to the topcloth.
Handling during production, especially of small
components is facilitated.
Differential shrinkage between top-cloth and
interlining is reduced to controllable proportions (
compared to traditional sew-in type).
Stitch pucker and the consequent distortion of sewn
parts are reduced.
The garment has a cleaner and fresher appearance
upon its initial presentation.
Advantages For the Wearer
Increases garment durability.
The handle of the cloth is very slightly modified by the
interlining.
The garment retains its original shape after repeated
dry-cleaning or washing.
Reduced crease-recovery time.
 REFERENCES

• Fusing Technology by Gerry Cooklin

• Carr and Latham’s Technology of Clothing Manufacture
Revised by David J. Tyler
http://www.alvanon.com/assets/files/newsarticles/SW_JUN
E_ 2013.pdf
• http://www.martingroup.it/index.php/en/?
searchword=fusing&searchphrase=any&limit=20&ordering
=newest&view=search&option=com_search
http://www.martingroup.it/images/stories/pdf/laminator.pd
f,
• http://www.martingroup.it/index.php/en/catalog/31-
garment-fusing-machine-jackets-coats/76-open-top-70-
100- 124-140-160-180-en,
• All pictures have been clicked from Fusing Technology by
Gerry Cooklin and Veit Manual.
• http://www.just-style.com/analysis/the-hidden-strengths-
offusing-and-fusibles_id92947.aspx,
• http://oshima.com.tw/ASP/Product/Product.asp?
Lang=EN&Page=88,
• http://www.jesseheap.com/search.cgi?
Realm=All&Match=1&Terms=fusing
%20machine&maxhits=10&Rank=11
http://www.veit.de/PPL/Veit/VEITdatapackage/VEIT_Classic_
02 -1405.pdf
• http://www.fiblon.co.kr/home/home_all.html.
• http://www.veit.de/en/ironing-and-pressing-
garments/fusingmachines/unloading-slide-ax-450.
THANK YOU.