QUARTER III

Overview
Part III and IV is about producing ladies trouser. This will enable you to learn
more and develop skills in drafting and cutting pattern for ladies trousers, prepare and
cut materials, assemble garment parts and apply finishing touches, particularly long
pants with continental side pockets or front hip pockets.

In addition, the process of labelling and packaging the finished output is also
discussed.

General Objectives:
At the end of the quarter, learners are expected to:

1. drafts and cuts pattern; and

2. prepares and cuts materials for ladies trousers.

LESSON 1 PRODUCE LADIES’ TROUSERS

Learning Outcome 1 Draft and Cut Pattern for Ladies Trousers

Objectives

At the end of this lesson, you are expected to:

1. perform how to draft and cut pattern; and

2. demonstrate how to prepare and cut materials for ladies trousers.

There might be some confusion between the meaning of trousers, pants, or

even slacks. Some maybe asking what is more appropriate to use for ladies? Or which
one is for men? Even some dictionaries, the meaning seem to be synonymous or
interrelated with each other. In order to come up with a more specific meaning, experts
in sewing considered the origin from where these words came from. In most parts of the
United Kingdom and Ireland, trousers are the general term for an outergarment which
are worn at the hips or waist, and maybe held up by their own fastenings, a belt, or
suspenders (braces) while pant, a British word, refer to as men’s underwears or
underpants, plural of which are pantie. But, in some other places, it is
also an outergarment covering each leg separately and usually
extending from the waist to the ankle- and it comes from the word
“pantaloons”. Slacks are trousers especially for casual wear and it is
usually used in plural form.

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Designs of Ladies Trousers

Trousers are basically office wear worn by corporate women. They are made
up of cotton, polyesters and wool and looking great with a formal blouse and shirt.

As fashions change, the lengths of slacks or trousers vary now from very short
to knee length, to just below the knee, and on down to the ankle and just below it. The
legs of trousers may be slightly flared, straight, or tapered. Careful construction of them
will enable us to construct a pair of trousers which will be well-tailored and contribute to
a neat appearance regardless of specific style or design.

To come up with the best trouser that would compliment your body is to
understand one’s body type or shape, the posture of the body and the type of fabric
used in making the trouser. There are six main body shapes that will guide you in
choosing the best style of trouser to wear: Hourglass, Triangle, Inverted Triangle,
Rectangle , Diamond and Rounded shape.

Different Shapes of the Body

1. For Triangle shape, it is best to wear a trouser with the straight leg.
2. For Inverted Triangle shape, a peg trouser, with pleats on the top, and
has a waistband. Wide leg lining trouser is also good for this body shape.

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3. For Rectangle shape, low rise, skinny trousers and wider leg is best for this
shape. Avoid big flares and cargo pants and silky flowing trousers for office
or night out.
4. For Hourglass shape, high-waist and wide-legged trousers underline the
curvaceous body are of great style options.

5. For Oval or Diamond shape, trousers should be in classic style with flat
fronts, and no extra from zips, pleats or gathers. Low rise trousers should
not be worn and waistbands should not be too tight. Boot cuts are best
suited for this shape and if tall enough, straight cuts or palazzo is of great
choice.
6. For Apple or Rounded shape, a pair of boot cut jeans will help this body
shape looks slimmer and create a line waist down. Skinny jeans or trousers
should be avoided.

Another factor to consider is the type of posture that a wearer has. Posture type can be
classified into three categories:
1. Average. When the wearer stands fairly straight and the side seams of
pants fall straight and are lined up with the ankle, she has average posture.
2. Forward-tilted hip. When the wearer stands in somewhat slouched manner;
fairly flat, low seat, and has high prominent roll below the front waist or high
prominent hip bones. This posture causes pants to sag under the seat
unless the pattern is altered.

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 Average Forward-tilted hip Backward-tilted hip

Different Body Postures

3.Backward-tilted hip. When the wearer stands with the tummy lowered and posterior
out and up and the pants hike up over the seat. In here, the pattern crotch length is not
corrected.

Styles of Trousers
1. Straight Leg Trouser is the style of trousers
which can fit any body type. It can be found in
different designs and best for business meetings
and in casual workplace. It has uniform width from
thigh all the way to hem. The straight line help
balance out any body type and has the ability to
hide wide and bulky thighs. It is ideal for women
with wider hips, larger thighs as well as for slender
women.

a. Gaucho trouser is similar to Capri pants except

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 that it has wider legs with a flare at the bottom. This is ideal for warm
weather. The short breathable legs keep the woman cool and the
wide and flowing legs can have a similar appearance to a skirt
depending on the amount of fabric used and the amount of flare.
Women with long legs can wear any style or colour gaucho trousers
and women with shorter or heavier legs should wear longer gaucho
trousers in a light color.

3. Boot Cut Trouser has similar design to

straight leg trousers except that it has a
slight flare at the bottom so that it can easily
fit over a pair of boots. This works well with
any body type.

4. Skinny Trouser is the style for women who

have skinny, straight legs and slim figures.
Skinny trousers hug the legs and the hips very
closely and make the lower half of the body look
small. It is important that the top half of the body
is in proportion.

Leggings are usually skin tight and are made up

of denim, cotton and lycra.

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 5. Cropped Trouser is best suited during
summertime. It is not as short as capri pants,
instead it has a hem that falls between the
ankle and the calf. It has straight legs and do
not hug the legs too closely. Women with
shorter stature should avoid cropped trousers
that have a cuff because they will make
women shorter than they already are. It is best
suited for casual or business casual
occasions.

Capris are popular among women which are worn during summer. These are
made up of cotton, denim and polyester.
Wide 6. Wide Leg Trouser has straight legs that is wider and more
flowing than straight leg trousers. Tall, slender women are
wearing this kind of trousers because it can make the bottom
appear larger than the top half. When paired with the right
shoes, wide leg trousers can help elongate the legs and slim
the figure down.
These types of trousers are available as part of a women's suit
or as a casual pair of trousers for any occasion.

Palazzos are generally loose in fitting and are best suited to

lean women and goes well with tank tops and trendy blouses. These are made
up of wrinkle free fabric.

Types of Waistbands for Trousers

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1. Super High Rise.  Waistband is more than 1 inch above your waist.
2. High Rise Jeans.  Waistband is 1 inch above your waist.
3. Medium Rise Jeans.  Waistband is located precisely on the waist.
4. Medium to Low Rise Jeans.  Waistband is located typically 2-3 inches below the
belly button. The most popular rise in most denim brands, especially for women.
5. Low Rise Jeans.  Waistband is very low, 3-5 inches below the belly button.
6. Ultra Low Rise Jeans or Brazilian Low Rise Jeans.  Brazilian jeans are growing in
popularity and are renowned for their daring sexy cuts, high quality and original
embellishments.

Types of Fabrics Suited for Ladies Trousers

Women buy a pair of trousers to add to their wardrobe and

wear in the workplace. They choose the best one that suits them
and best for their body types. They find the styles of trousers that
look most flattering to them aside from this they give comfort and
ease of movement in their workplace.
There are various styles, designs and colours to match
every woman’s taste when it comes to trousers. But then, to
come up with well-fitted and well-constructed trouser fabrics must
be given importance in constructing or buying a pair of trousers to
give more flattering and more catching effect to the wearer.
In choosing the best fabric suited for ladies trousers,
choose fabric which is firmly woven to hold its shape and would
compliment more to your body shape. Texture and design should be properly examined
to avoid scratchy feeling when it is used. There are also fabric types which require
lining to prevent undergarments and seam allowances seen through. Choose medium-
weight blends fabric for trousers.

Types of Fabrics Suited for Ladies Trousers

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 Gabardine Polyester

Parts
Gabardine of
Polyester has the same
is a light wool (or cotton once in a
characteristics as the cotton but may
while) twill weave that's best for
not easily gets dirty as cotton.
Spring and Fall. It is usually woven in
10-12 ounce weights that are warm in
the summer and not warm enough in
winter.

Cotton Denim

Cotton has an elegant appearance for

women but for women with lots of Denim is a heavy-weight fabric with
activities, this is not appropriate very little drape or stretch.
because it snags easily and is hard to
clean and care for when it gets dirty.
Corduroy Velveteen

Corduroy is a type of fabric that has Velveteen is a type of imitation

strips on one side alternating between velvet. It is normally made of cotton or
flat and slightly fluffy, which gives a a combination of cotton and silk. It
ribbed effect. Corduroy is quite thick has8 a pile that is short (never more
and is often used to make trousers than 3mm deep), and is closely set. It
and jackets. has a firm hand and a slightly sloping
pile. Unlike true velvet, this type has
 Trousers

Parts of Trousers

1. Waistband is a strip of fabric fastened at the top of trousers that fits around the
waist.

2. Fly is an opening/placket covering the groin which makes the pants easier to put on
or take off. It conceals the mechanism such as zipper, velcro or buttons.

3. Leg(s) or leggings are form-fitting covering for the legs.

4. Seam is a line where two pieces of cloth are joined by sewing near the edge of the
fabrics (inseam and outseam).

5. Bottom(s) are the lowest part of trousers.

6. Trouser support the belt loops on the waistband of the trousers where the belt
passes on serve as support to the wearer.

7. Pocket is usually small cloth bag that is sewn into a piece of clothing which is open at
the top or side where little things can be put into it.

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 Types of Pockets

A pocket is a bag- or envelope-like receptacle either fastened to or inserted in

an article of clothing to hold small items. It is an indispensable part of men and women’s
garments. It is functional. It serves as container for small objects aside from being a
decoration. In the construction of long or short pants, different kinds of pockets are
used.

1. Patch pockets. These pockets are external and can be decorative. They
can be made from the same fabric as the garment or from a contrasting
fabric.

a. Unlined patch pocket is one of the most popular types of pockets, it can be
found on garments of all kinds.On medium and heavier fabrics, it is advisable
to apply a fusible interfacing.
1. If needed, apply an interfacing to
the pocket fabric.
2. Mark the fold lines with tailored
tacks.

3. Fold the top of the pocket down, as

indicated by the tailor’s tacks.
4. Use the zigzag stitch to neaten the
edge.
5. Sew down the sides of the turned-
down top.
6. Sew a long stitch through the
corners. This will tighten the curve.
7. Trim away the fabrics in the seam
allowance of the curve.
8. Remove the top corner.
9. Turn the top edge over to the
wrong side . Press.
10. Pull up the stitches in the curves
to tighten. Press.
11. Turn under the curved edges.
12. Baste through the bottom edge
and curves to secure.
13. Hand sew the top edge with a
herringbone stitch to the wrong
side of the pocket.

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 14. Press. The pocket is now ready
to be attached.

b. Lined patch pocket. This type of pocket is not suitable for heavy fabrics and
for medium-weight fabric, a fusible interfacing is required. This needs to be cut
with the top edge of the pocket on a fold.

1. Cut the pocket fabric and

apply a fusible interfacing if
needed.
2. Fold the pocket in half, right
side to right side. Pin to
secure.
3. Sew around the three open
sides of the pocket. Leave a
gap of 1 in (3cm) for turning
through.
4. Remove bulk from the corners
by trimming.
5. Trim one side of the seam
allowance down to half its
width.
6. Use pinking shears to trim
corners.
7. Turn the pocket through the
gap to theright side. Press.
8. Hand stitch the gap (using a
flat fell or blind hem stitch) in
the seam. The pocket is now
ready to be attached
c. Square Patch Pocket. It is possible to have a patch pocket with square corners.
This requires mitering the corners to reduce the bulk. Use a fusible interfacing on
medium-weight fabrics.

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 1. Cut the pocket and apply
interfacing, if needed. Neaten
theupper edge of the pocket
withserger or zigzag stitching.
2. Fold over the upper edge and
stitchdown the sides.
3. Fold in the other three edges and
press to crease.
4. Remove the top corners.
5. Fold in the bottom corners, then
fold accross these to give creases
for the mitters.

6. Sew the crease lines together in

each bottom corner to miter it.
7. Cut off the surplus fabric, then
press the corner seam open with the
toe of the iron.

8. Turn the edges of the pocket to

the wrong side.

9. The finished pocket is now ready

to be attached.

d. Attaching patch pocket.To attach a pocket well, accurate pattern chalk marking is
essential. It is best to do this by means of tailor’s tacks or even trace basting. If you
are using a checker or striped fabric, the pocket fabric must be alligned with the
checkered or stripes on the garment.

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 1. Mark the pocket placement lines on
the garment with tailor’s tacks.
2. Take the completed pocket and
place it to the fabric, matching the
corners with tailor’s tacks. Pin in
position.

3. To make sure the pocket remains in

the correct position, baste around the
edge along the sides and bottom.
Keep the basting stitches close to the
finished edge of the pocket.

4. Sew approximately 1/32 in (1mm)

from the edge of the pocket.
5. Remove the basting stitches.
Press.

6. Alternatively, the pocket can be

hand sewn in place, using a hem
stitch into the underside of the pocket
seam. Do not pull on the thread too
tightly or the pocket will wrinkle.

e. Reinforcing pocket corners. On any patch pocket, it is essential to reinforce the

corners as these take all strain when the pocket is being used. There are several
ways to do this, some of which are quite decorative.

REVERSE DIAGONAL ZIGZAG PARALLEL ZIGZAG

STITCH STITCH STITCH STITCH
1. Reinforce the 1. This technique 1. Using a small 1. Patch on the
corner with a is primarily used zigzag stitch, wrong side of the
reverse stitch. on shirts. When width 1.0 and garment, behind the
Make sure the sewing the pocket lenght 1.o sew pocket corner, to sew
stitches lie on top in place, sew diagonally into for strength.
of one another. along horizontally accross the
for four stitches. corner.

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 2. Pull the 2. Turn and sew 2. Make a 2. Using a small
threads to the diagonally back to feature of this zigzag stitch, width
reverse to tie the side, to create stitch by using a 1.0 and length 1.0
off. a triangular shape thread in sew a short vertical
in the corner. contrasting color. line next to the
straight stitches.

Types of Facing and Interfacing

Facings are pieces of fabric sewn to the garment edge, turned to the inside,
and sewn in place by hand or machine. Garment edges that are commonly faced are
necklines collars, cuffs, and sleeveless arms-cyes.

There are two styles of facings that are common to the costume shop, fitted and bias
facings.

1. Fitted Facings are pieces of fabric that match the area to be faced in shape and
grain.

2. Bias Facings utilize the stretch of the bias to shape the facing to the edge being
faced. The stetch of bias is limited and are restricted on the curvature possible on the
edge to be faced.

 Interfacing is a supporting fabric that is used to give body, shape and

reinforcement to particular areas of a garment, and is hidden between plies of fabric.
Interfacing in good quality garments is usually found in the following areas:

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 Interfacing is used to provide shaping, reinforcement, firming and support.
Collars, cuffs, facings and plackets are the most commonly interfaced areas but far from
the only uses for interfacing. Without interfacing buttonholes might rip without the
interfacing to strengthen them, facings collars and cuffs would be limp and floppy
without interfacing and many creative projects would never happen.
Interfacing comes in various weights and sew-in or fusible form. The weight is
almost always lighter than the fabric you are sewing but should always have the same
care requirement. One exception is something like a baseball hat bill or fabric bowl.
That interfacing is much heavier than the fabric to obtain the stiff hat bill or bowl shape. 

Fuse or Sew-In Interfacing

Although the choice ends up being a matter of preference, the fabric is the final
decision. Not all fabrics can withstand the heat required for fusible interfacing. Cool
fuse. Interfacing is a possibility because it adheres at a lower heat setting. Fusible
interfacing also adds a bit more stiffness once it is fused than when it is standing alone.
Always pre-wash your fabric to remove any finishes or chemical coatings before
attempting to fuse an interfacing to it. 
When you are sewing fabrics such as vinyl, velvets, beaded, sequin and treated fabrics
it is best to use sew in interfacing.

Project Plan for Ladies Trousers

I. Name of the Project: Making a pair of ladies’ trousers

Date Started: _______________ Rating: _____________
Date Finished: ______________

II. Objectives:
a.
b.
c.
III. Design of the Project:

IV. Materials, Tools, and Equipment Needed

A. Materials
Description Quantity Unit Cost Total Cost

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 B. Tools and Equipment
V. Procedure
A. Preliminary Construction Process
1.
2...

B. Assembling the Ladies’ Trouser

1.
2.
3...

VI.Evaluation

Rubrics for Evaluating the Finished Ladies Trousers

Body Measurements for Ladies Trousers

Body Parts to Actual

be Measured Measurements
1. Outside
Length (L)
2. Waist (W)
3. Seat/ 2nd
Hip (2H)
4. Rise/
Crotch (C)
5. Thigh (T)
6.
7. Knee (K)
8. Bottom
(B)

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Body Parts to be Measured in Making Trousers
1.Waist.
2. High hip (3" down at side).
3. Hip at fullest part (7-9" below waist).
4. Distance at side from waist down to fullest part of hip.
5. Pant length (waist to floor).
6. Thigh at fullest part.
7. Knee (1" above center).
8. Distance to knee from waist.
9. Crotch depth. Sit on a flat surface and measure from waist to surface on side.
Note: Rise or Tiro meaning “Crotch”

Procedure in Taking Body Measurements for Ladies Trousers

Tips in Taking Body Measurements for Ladies Trousers
1. Use a clear and correctly numbered tape measure.
2. Start from number one when taking measurements.
3. Never take your own measurements.
4. Stand straight when being measured.
5. Empty the pockets and remove the belts when measurements are being taken.
6. Follow the correct order of taking the body measurements.
7. Measurements should never be too tight nor too loose.
8. Record all measurements immediately.

Needed Measurements
A. Vertical Measurements
1. Outside Length – Taken from the waist down to the desired length, this measurement
is taken at the side with a tape measure.
2. Rise- Taken from the waist down to the crotch with the use of a tailor‟s square.
B. Horizontal Measurements
1. Waist- Taken around the smallest part of the torso or body with a tape measure.
2. Seat or Hip- Taken around the fullest part of the second hip or buttock with a tape
measure.
3. Thigh- Measured around the fullest part of the thigh in line with the crotch.
4. Width of knee- Taken from the back creaseline to the front creaseline at the kneeline
of the pants.
5. Width of bottom- taken at the bottom of pants desired length.
C. Rise Measurement
Techniques in taking the rise measurement:
1. Use a ruler and a tape measure.
2. Use a tailor‟s square.
3. Have the person seated and take the measurement at the side, from the waist down
to the chair seat.

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A. Front Part (Use red ink in drafting)
1. From 1, measure 7½ cm upward to get A.
2. From 1, apply the rise measurement to get 2.
3. From 1, apply the length measurement to get 3.
4. From 3, measure 3.8cm downward to get 4 for the fold allowance. Square out from1,
2, 3, and 4.
5. From 2, apply ¼ seat measurement plus 1.9cm to the left to get 5.
6. From 2, apply ¼ seat measurement plus 1.9cm to the right to get 6.
7. From 1, measure 1.9cm to the right to get 7.
8. From 7, apply ¼ waistline measurement to the right to get 8.
9. From 7, apply ¼ waistline measurement plus 1.9cm to the left to get 9.
10. Get the measurement from 7 to 2 and apply this from 9 to get 10.
11. From 8, measure 1½ cm upward to get B. Using a hip curve, draw a line to connect
7 to B and 9 to 10.
12. From 5, measure 3.8cm to the right on line 2.
13. From 10, measure 3.8 cm upward on line 9 to get 11. Using a french curve, connect
5 and 11.
14. Get the midpoint of 2 and 3 and mark this C.
15. From C, measure 3.8cm upward for the knee cap.
16. From the knee cap point, apply ¼ knee measurement to the right to get 12 and ¼
knee measurement to the left to get 13.
17. From 3, 1pply ¼ bottom measurement to the right to get 14 and the same
measurement to the left to get 15.
18. From 4, apply ¼ bottom measuremnt plus 1.9cm to the right to get 16 and the same
measurement to the left to get 17.
19. Connect B, 8, and 6 with a hip curve turned outward. Connect 6 and 12 with the hip
curve turned inward.
20. Draw a line downward connecting 12, 14, and 16. Draw another line downward
connecting 13, 15, and 17.

B. Back Part (Use blue ink in drafting)

1. From 6, measure 2½ cm to the right to get 18.
2. Get the midpoint of 8 and 6 and mark this D.
3. From D, measure 3.8cm to the right to get E.
4. From 12, measure 1.9cm to the right get 19.
5. From 14, measure 1.9cm to the right to get 20.
6. From 16, measure 1.9cm to the right to get 21. Connect E, 18, 19, 20, and 21.
7. From F, apply ¼ waistline measurement plus 3.8cm to the left to get 22.
8. From 22, measure 3cm upward to get 23. Connect 23 and F.
9. From 5, measure 3.8cm to the left (outside line) to get 24.
10. From 24, measure 1¼ cm downward to get 25. Draw a line to 10 then connect 11 to
25 using a French curve.
11. From 13 and 15, measure 1.9cm to the left to get 26 and 27, respectively.
12. From 17, measure 1.9cm to the left to get 28. Connect 25, 26, 27, and 28.

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Drafting Basic/BlockPattern for Ladies Trousers
LADY’S PANTS SLOPER
A. Pants measurements
1. Waist: taken around the smallest part of the waistline.
2. Hip II: 20 1/3 cm below the waistline, measured around the hip with the tape measure
over the fullest part of the buttocks.
3. Length of the pants: from the waistline to the ankle.
4. Crotch: with the individual seated, measured around from the waistline down the
seat.
B. Sample measurements
Waist = 28
Hip II=38
Length=37
Crotch=10
Knee=18 standard
Ankle=16 standard
1. A is the starting point.
2. A to B is equal to crotch measurements.
3. Divide hip by 2.
On the other long side/arm of the square, look for 19 under 1/3 division and place B;
mark 19 under ½ divisionC; mark under 1/6 division D; and mark 19 under 1/12 division
E and mark corner F.
4. F to K is 1 ¼ cm; E to G is 1 ¼ cm.
5. H from A = 2/3 cm. Divide waist by 2. On the short arm of the square, look for 14
under ¼ division and place H; mark corner J; and 14 under ½ division L.
6. Connect I to G; F to G =G to L. Draw front crotch from L to K;L to M = ¼ hip II.
7. With the curve, join J, M passing line BC and mark corner T.
8. A to N= length of pants
9.B N/2 + 1 = 0
10.P from O = ¼ knee Q from O = ¼ knee R from N= ¼ ankle S from N= ¼ ankle
11.Connnect P, R, S, Q up to T. With a curve, connect K to P.
Cutting the pattern
1. Pin pattern securely.
2. Trace back crotch and back dart.
3. Cut outermost lines first, cut back crotch, then front pattern.
Back Sloper
1. 1 from P= 1 ¼ cm 2 from R= 1 ¼ cm 3 from S= 1 ¼ cm 4 from Q= 1 ¼ cm
2. Connect 6 to D.
3. F to D = D to G
4. On the short side of the square place 19 under ¼ on D anf mark corner 7.7 to 8= 2/3
cm. Connect to 8 to 1.
5. Draw dart to 4 cm wide and 13 cm long.

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Learning Outcome 2 Prepare and Cut Materials for Ladies Trousers
Objectives

At the end of this lesson, you are expected to:

1. perform the methods on how to prepare and cut materials for ladies‟ trousers; and
2. follow the procedures correctly in performing the activities.

Laying Out Pattern Pieces for Ladies Trousers

The fabric for the trouser should be preshrunk and pressed to ensure that there will be
no more shrinkage after it has been cut and sewn. The grainline should be straightened.
When laying out, cutting, and sewing, pay close attention to the lines and contours of
the fabric print or design, and see to it that they align and match at appropriate points
for the best appearance of the finished garment.
Lay the fabric out on a smooth, hard surface.
Use sharp pins to pin the pattern pieces to the fabric.

Cutting the Fabric

1. Cut out the fabric using the pattern pieces as a guide.

2. Mark the pattern pieces front and back using a washable marking pen or marking
pencil. Also, pin the pieces. Use two pins to mark the front and one pin to mark the back
pieces. 3. Use scissors to cut the triangles or waistline markings. Cut them out as this
will help match pattern pieces. 4. Cut with the grain. Cut the waistband exactly on grain,
twice the width of the Grosgrain plus ¼inch, and 5 inches longer than the waist
measurement. The waistband in plaid fabrics may be cut either on the kengthwise or on
the crosswise grain, depending on the design. 5. Cut the lining after the first fitting in
case the pattern has to be altered. 6. Edge finish then, cut out pattern pieces using a zig
zag or serging stitch

Transferrring of Marks onto the Fabric

1. Use tailor‟s tacks to mark all darts, tucks, crotch seams, and outseams at
waistline and hem. Mark original seamsline on crotch seam with hand
basting.
2. Stay stitch the waistline ¼ inch outside the seamline. Stay stitch the
seamlines at the pocket, the length of the zipper. Do not stay stitch the
crotch seam.
3. Baste the lengthwise and crosswise grainlines with contrasting colored thread if the
fabric is not a plaid. Put the crosswise grainlines at a right angle to the lengthwise
grainline at the seven-inch hipline marking, the crotch, and the knee.
From E to F is 1/8 hips, minus ½ inch (use the square)
From D to N is the measurement of the bottom
From C to O is the measurement of the knee
Draw a line from O to N, and from C to D
From E to 2 is 4-inches down
From 2 to 3 is is the thigh measurement,minus ¼ inch

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Draw a line from O to 2 up to E, from C to 3
From H to A is ¼ of waistline measurement, plus 1 ½ inches for pleats
Draw a line from 3 to B up to A
Draw a straight line from H to F
From F to W is 1 ½ inches
Draw a curve line from W to E
Mark your pleats up to 1 ½ inches only
G
L- is the center of J and K
Back Part: Give an inch ½ inch allowance both sides, and at the back part of waistline is
1 ¾ inches
Imaginary line is your back part
Directions: Following the procedure in drafting basic/block pattern for ladies‟ trousers,
draft or manipulate pants sloper using your own measurements.

Techniques in Cutting Final Pattern

1. Cut out the pattern along the dotted guidelines, then put the pattern pieces together
to make sure they match before starting to cut your fabric. Correcting any cutting
mistakes is essential so that the seam lines will match up.
2. Add seam allowance (at least 1cm) to all edges and 2,5-3cm to the hems. Remember
that you can measure and adapt the length of the pants legs to suit your leg length.
Depending on your seating posture the pattern length can be more or less suited for
you. If you want to make sure, cut the pants slightly longer than you need. It is easier to
shorten the leg length than making them longer if necessary.

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