EMILY DRESS

RADIANT IN LINEN
Understated linen luxury gets pretty with our
twirling A-line wrap dress. Wear it to a summer
gallery opening or garden party.
Misses and Women Sizes Included

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 PICTURED: LAURA WEARING IL020 3.5 OZ LINEN IN POWER PINK.

Our lovely model Laura is 5’10” and wearing size 4/6 of this pattern with the
following adjustments: Bodice lengthened 1.25”, Sleeves lengthened 2”.

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EMILY PATTERN
Emily is a semi-tailored short wrap dress with a
flared A-line skirt and fitted bodice with princess
bust seams. Very flattering with an overlapping
V-neckline, high waist and long sleeves.

Sized for ladies 0/2 to 28/30

Simple instructions for the intermediate sewist.

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PATTERN DETAILS
EMILY DRESS
Sizes: 0/2 to 28/30

- Wrap Front - Semi-fitted

- Long, straight set-in sleeves.
- Front bust princess seams.
- Flared A-Line skirt shape
- Bias strip facing in neckline
- Overlapping Vneckline
- Two hook & eyes to fasten at waist

FABRICS & SUPPLIES

Fabrics:
[] Main fabric: light or medium weight
linen. We sampled Emily in our IL020
a lighter weight of 3.5 ounces this
100% linen is woven with finer threads
to give it a smoother appearance.
Notions:
[] Two hook & eyes for waist (or
buttons if desired.

SIZING & YARDAGE

Misses/Women's Size Guide Based on Body Measurements in Inches
Size 0/2 4/6 8/10 12/14 16/18 20/22 24/26 28/30
Bust 33-34 35-36 37-38 39-40 42-44 46-48 50-52 54-56
Waist 25-26 27-28 29-30 31-32 34-36 38-40 42-44 46-48
Hip 35-36 37-38 39-40 41-42 44-46 48-50 52-54 56-58

Finished Garment Measurements - Approximate in Inches

Size 0/2 4/6 8/10 12/14 16/18 20/22 24/26 28/30
Bust 35 37 39 41 45 49 53 57
Waist (high) 26.5 28.5 30.5 32.5 36.5 40.5 44.5 48.5
Hips 42 44 46 48 52 56 60 64
Dress Length 35 35 1/4 35 5/9 35 7/8 36 1/3 36 3/4 37 1/6 37 3/5
Sleeve Inseam 17 3/8 17 7/8 18 3/8 18 7/8 19 3/8 19 7/8 20 3/8 20 7/8

Estimated Yardage - 54" Width Linen - Shrinkage Has Been Calculated

3 yards all sizes

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PATTERN & CUTTING GUIDES
PATTERN PIECE REFERENCE

A: FRONT BODICE -
CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”
G
A B: SIDE FRONT BODICE -
C CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”
B C: BACK -
CUT 1 IN LINEN CENTER BACK “ON FOLD”

D: SLEEVE -
CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”

F E: BACK SKIRT-
D E CUT 1 IN LINEN CENTER BACK “ON FOLD”

F: FRONT SKIRT-
CUT 2 IN LINEN “FACE TO FACE”

G: BIAS STRIP-
CUT 2 IN LINEN

CUTTING LAYOUT EXAMPLES

Selvage

Cutting layout guide: all sizes

Example is size 30

Selvages
Selvage

Folded Edge

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SEWING & PREPARATION TIPS:
Sewing with quality linen from Fabrics-Store is very enjoyable! Linen is a stable fabric
that does not easily shift or slip, which is a very helpful characteristic for sewing a neat
and even seam with little effort. You do not need to “push” or “pull” the fabric while
sewing... simply guide it.

Pre-washing: You will want to prewash and dry your linen fabric in the same manner
you would your finished garment. This will soften your fabric, and eliminate further
shrinkage in your final garment.

If you plan on only dry cleaning your final garment, likewise you will want to dry clean
the fabric before cutting and sewing. Secure the raw edges with a zig-zag or serger
stitch before washing to avoid fraying. You may also sew the two raw edges
together to form a continuous piece to avoid twisting in the wash. Remove fabric
from dryer while it is still slightly moist. Press any deep creases or wrinkles using your
iron’s steam setting with high heat, using a protective press cloth if needed to avoid
scorching.

Fine Seaming: To ensure that your seaming will last as long as your linen garment,
we encourage “single-needle” tailoring and French seaming. Once you think of
French seams as simply sewing the seam twice to encase the raw edges, you will
see that it does not take that much more time than the second step of using a serger.
Setting the stitch length on your sewing machine to 2mm (about 12-14 stitches per
inch) makes for a very durable seam, and is also an attractive indication of fine
tailoring.

Alternate Seaming: If you instead prefer to stitch your seams regularly and serge
the raw edges, simply sew the seams with the full 5/8” allowance. You can then
serge the raw edges, allowing the machine to trim 1/8” off the edges. This will
result in seam allowances finishing at 1/2”.

Pressing: For best results, it is highly recommended that you press your seams as you
finish sewing each of them. Pressing with a steam iron (and press cloth if needed) will
help “set” the stitches into the fabric. You will find it is much easier to press your
seams “as you go” instead of trying to press them all after the garment is finished.

Sewing Glossary: If certain sewing terms and techniques are new to you, please refer
to the sewing glossary at the end of this document.

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SEWING INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Sew front bust princess seams. 9. Sew the bias strip to the inside of
Carefully ensure that you have the neckline to create a narrow,
a “left” and a “right. 5/8” seam clean finished facing: Simply sew
allowances included. This will permit one edge of the bias to the neckline
sewing French seams, or if desired, with 1/4” seam, right sides together.
a regular seam with serged edges. Press to the inside and understitch
2. Sew the back bodice darts. the bias facing. Fold under the other
raw edge leaving about a 3/8” wide
3. Staystitch the edges of the neckline
facing. Trim any excess if needed.
to prevent stretching.
Topstitch the facing in place.
4. Sew the shoulders and side seams
10. Sew the side seams of the skirt.
of the bodice. Press the finished
seam allowances towards the back. 11. Hem the vertical open edges of the
skirt. To do this, turn under and
5. Sew the sleeve inseams. Press the
press 1/4”, then again 3/8” and
finished seam allowances towards
press. Topstitch at 3/8”.
the front.
12. Attach the skirt waist to the bodice
6. Staystitch the seam allowance of
waist.
the sleeve 1/2” from the raw edge
to prevent stretching. Ease-stitch 13. Hem the bottom of the sleeve and
the sleeve head slightly. skirt in the same manner as the skirt
opening.
7. Sew the sleeve into the armhole.
14. Sew hooks & eyes or buttons &
8. Join the bias strips together to have
loops into the waist overlap area.
one continuous piece.

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Glossary:
Basting Stitch: A temporary hand or
machine loose or long stitch to hold a French seam: A seam sewn in two steps to
seam in place before sewing the final encase the raw edges of the fabric within
permanent stitching. itself, giving a clean finish. 1- Wrong sides
together, sew 1/4” seam. 2- Turn right
Bias grain: In woven fabrics, this is the sides together, stitch 3/8” seam. Total
diagonal direction at 45 degrees to the 5/8” seam allowance.
grain and crossgrain. There are two bias
directions in the cloth, perpendicular to Grainline- cross grain: The direction of
each other. fabric going from selvage edge to selvage
edge. In woven fabric, these would also be
Buttonhole: A slit in the fabric to fasten known as the weft threads of the weave.
a button. The raw edges of the slit are
finished with a machine or hand sewn zig- Grainline- on grain: The direction of fabric
zag stitch. running parallel to the selvage edge of
the cloth. This is also referred to as the
Ease stitch: A row of stitching sewn just “lengthwise grain”. In woven fabric, these
to the inside of a single layer of seam would also be known as the “warp” threads
allowance. While stitching, coax the of the weave.
weave of the fabric with your finger or
awl to “compress” the fabric together. Notch- outward: Markings on the pattern
This creates a “gathering” effect without that indicate an outward triangular cut
puckers. If desired, a second row of outside the seam allowance. Notch
stitching can be done for more ease. markings will be arranged to show where
two seam edges join properly together.
Edge stitch: A row of top stitching very A single wedge will often indicate a front
close to a seamed edge or folded edge, piece, and 2 to 3 wedges together can
usually about 1/16th of an inch. indicate back pieces.

Fabric- right side: The side of the fabric Notch- snip: Markings on the pattern
which will be the exposed, outside part of that indicate a small “snip” into the
a garment. seam allowance. Notch marking will be
arranged to show where two seam edges
Fabric- wrong side: The inside of the fabric join properly together. A single notch will
which will be the unexposed side or inside often indicate a front piece, and 2 to 3
of a garment. notches together can indicate back pieces.

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Glossary (continued):

Overlock machine: A specialized sewing Stay stitch: A row of stitching on a

machine designed to sew and cut along single layer of the seam allowance edge
the raw edge of a fabric seam with a to prevent stretching. You are neither
networked stitch to secure the edges from pushing or pulling the fabric- just guiding.
fraying. Also known as a ”serger” machine. The row of stitching will be just to the
inside of the permanent seam allowance
Press cloth: A piece of cloth used to lay width. For example, if the seam allowance
over a garment to protect it while ironing is 5/8”, your stay stitch will be 1/2” or a
from burning or scorching. Usually made “scant” 5/8”. You will want your permanent
of cotton or linen or wool. stitching to conceal the stay stitch.

Raw edge: The cut edge of fabric. If not Understitch: A row of stitching on a the
secured with stitching or a finishing, the seamed edge of facing. This prevents the
raw edge of a fabric can fray or unravel. facing from rolling out to the outside and
keeps it neatly in place along the garment
Seam allowance: The distance from the edge. The stitching will only go on the
cut edge of a pattern piece to the sewing facing side, catching the seam allowance
line. Seam allowances can vary, so be sure with it. The stitching will show on the
to double check the indicated amounts on facing, but not on the garment side.
your pattern.

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 “Emily” Sewing Pattern

PRINT ONLY THIS PAGE FIRST TO CHECK SCALE

IMPORTANT! PRINT AT ACTUAL SIZE OR 100% SCALE
2 Inch
Square to
Check Print Formatted for paper sizes A4 and Letter.
Accuracy Simply overlap the page margins and
align the markings in each corner to
complete the circle and tape in place.

Layered PDF:
This pattern has embedded
layers so you can print all
sizes or a single size. See
your .pdf viewers 'Layers'
menu.
 “EMILY”
F: FRONT SKIRT
CUT 2 IN LINEN
“FACE TO FACE”

5/8”
SEAM ALLOWANCES
INCLUDED

-1-
 “EMILY”
E: BACK SKIRT
CUT 1 IN LINEN
“ON FOLD”

SIZE LINE TYPES

-2-
T

-3-
-4-
 -5- “EMILY”
B: SIDE FRONT BODICE
CUT 2 IN LINEN
“FACE TO FACE”
SIZE LINE TYPES
0/2
4/6
8/10
12/14
16/18
20/22
GRAINLINE

24/26
28/30
5/8”
SEAM ALLOWANCES
INCLUDED
 GRAINLINE

-6-
 0/2
4/6
8/10
12/14
CENTER BACK ON FOLD OF FABRIC

16/18
20/22
24/26
28/30

-7-
-8-
-9-
-10-
“
-11-
-12-
-13-
-14-
“EMILY” G: BIAS STRIP
CUT 2 IN LINEN

-15-
 -16-
“EMILY”
FRONT BODICE
CUT 2 IN LINEN
“FACE TO FACE”
NE TYPES
5/8”
SEAM ALLOWANCES
INCLUDED
-17-
A:
SIZE L
0/2
4/6
8/10
12/14
16/18
20/22
24/26
28/30
GRAINLINE
 “E
D: S
CU
“FA

SIZ

0/2
4/6
8/10
12/14
16/18
20/22
24/26
-18- 28/30
EMILY”
SLEEVE
UT 2 IN LINEN
ACE TO FACE”

ZE LINE TYPES
5/8”
SEAM ALLOWANCES
INCLUDED

-19-
-20-
-21-
-22-
-23-
GRAINLINE
-24-
-25-
 “EMILY”
C: BACK
CUT 1 IN LINEN
CENTER BACK “ON FOLD”

SIZE LINE TYPES

0/2
4/6
8/10
12/14
CENTER BACK ON FOLD OF FABRIC

16/18
20/22
24/26
28/30

5/8”
SEAM ALLOWANCES
INCLUDED

-26-
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-31-
-32-
 Thank you
We work hard on making our patterns beautiful enough to
meet your standards.

If you feel like sharing praise or helpful criticism, please

send us your comments to ask@fabrics-store.com

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