YEARS

2003-2013

SCHEDULE
Issue 12 × 2013
EXCERPTS
INSIDE August 16 - 29

YOUR FREE COPY THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND
CRIME DANCE POLITICS FOOD TRAVEL
Grapevine gets an Your fucking face off! Invade Afghanistan Enjoy Prins Póló's Eyjafjallajökull
illegal strip dance It's a festival! (via feminist PsyOps) sausage done two ways
:-/

Hotel
Reykjavík!
Is
this
what
we
want?
And
if not,
why
not?

A tension is building. Reykjavík's illustrious 101 arts scene is feeling pushed out
by the forces of CAPITAL, cornered and marginalized by the wealthy, who want to
"fill downtown Reykjavík with hotels" so they can "capitalize on TOURISM
FRENZY," and city officials, who seem to be letting them "do whatever they feel
like" in the name of progress/profit. But is this the case? What's the story here?
Your Friends At The Grapevine investigate. Page 24

+ Complete Lots of
Reykjavík Listings cool events
Download the FREE Grapevine Appy Hour app!
Every happy hour in town in your pocket.
Available on the App store and on Android Market.
 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 2

Editorial | Anna Andersen

COME SEE OUR NEW HOTELS!

Anna’s 29th Editorial
sports team and how ridiculous their mas- While this change is hard to swallow, it that has cleared out all of its culture to make
cot would look running around and cheering, doesn’t have to be a bad thing. There’s noth- room for your existence? Do you want to have
“Áfram Ísland!” But I digress. ing wrong with hotels per se. I’m probably not Viking trinkets and stuffed animal puffins
Icelandair’s decision was of course a delib- the only local who now spends a fair amount shoved down your throat as you walk down
erate one: “The names of Iceland’s volcanoes of time hanging out at newly opened hotels Reykjavík’s main drag? What are you going to
have close ties with the country’s heritage and and hostels like Marína, KEX and Loft, but the do with “a bit of volcano” or “a piece of moun-
history and inform foreign conceptions of it as key is that these places appeal to locals as tain” in a can?
the ever-volcanically active island in the North much as they appeal to tourists. As the number of tourists continues to
Atlantic,” their website states. “The names How many people want to live in a city that grow, we have to be careful that we do not
reflect Icelandair’s branding strategy to high- caters exclusively to tourists? The answer is cater exclusively to them. You don’t need a
light what is distinctly Icelandic in an increas- probably the same number of people who wild imagination to picture what kind of dam-
ingly homogenised world.” want to visit a city that caters exclusively to age Iceland’s tourism industry could do to our
Five thousand metres somewhere above The number of foreign tourists visiting ev- tourists. A city that appeals to the local popu- county if it expanded too quickly and reck-
Colorado, I was sitting on an Icelandair plane ery year now outnumber locals two to one and lation is a city that appeals to tourists, too. lessly, if it grew even remotely close to how
called Askja and it struck me that there was as this number continues to grow it’s inevi- As a tourism magazine, we write stories Iceland’s financial sector grew before the bub-
perhaps something strange about naming a table that our surroundings will change. The about places we imagine tourists might like to ble burst. As I reached for that grey Icelandair
fleet of airplanes after a bunch of volcanoes. face of Reykjavík is certainly changing—not visit, foods they might like to eat, and culture blanket embroidered with the words “Missing
I probably would have chuckled had I been only temporarily each summer in the form of they might like to experience. But these aren’t the hot springs? Warm yourself with this in-
on the Eyjafjallajökull plane, but I wasn’t on Gore-Tex clad visitors colouring our streets, special tourist things. These are the same stead,” a chill ran down my spine.
that one and I couldn’t help thinking that it was but also more permanently as hotels and hos- places that we like to visit, the foods we like to Turn to page 24 to read this issue’s feature,
somehow a bit gimmicky. I tried to imagine if tels move in to occupy places where cultural eat, and the culture that we like to experience. “Hotels, Motels, Holiday Inns.” Also, turn to
The Volcanoes were some kind of Icelandic venues, for instance, once stood. Do you really want to visit a city centre page 46 to read about volcanoes.

TRACK OF THE ISSUE TOURIST OF THE YEAR?

Like Sophia Both from Germany:
Earlier this year, Mr. Kristinsson put
“Iceland was the country where I first fell in
out his third independent album ‘Head-
love at the age of 16. Iceland was the country
phones’ which he recorded in the
where I first got my heart broken at the age
quaintness of his basement, the profes-
of 17. But, Iceland was also the country that
sional style of Studio Syrland, and the
taught me to always stand up and follow your
haunting magic of the Engelsholm Slot
dreams. Iceland was the country I fell and in
medieval castle in Denmark. It’s hard
love with. It taught me to enjoy life, no mat-
to tell which one of those this floating
ter what. So, that's what I did. At the age of
track was recorded in (or which part
19, Iceland was the country that I spent a year
was recorded where!) since it has all
working as an au-pair in, it was the country
the natural creakiness of an old, creepy
that taught me how to be a family. Iceland was
place but the vast sweeping reverb of As all of you surely know by now, we’re running the country that I missed really badly at the age
a great stone hall. Either way, it’s got a pretty amazing contest to find the TOURIST of 20, when I came back to Germany. Iceland
a good melody! Download this great OF THE YEAR where one lucky person will win is the country that I am now teaching about at
indie-folk tune and decide for yourself.
Jóhann Kristinsson – “Typewriter” a trip to Iceland courtesy of Icelandair, Inspired the age of 23.”
by Iceland and yours truly! Now that the sum-
Download NOW at www.grapevine.is mer has hit its peak and tourism is at critical But don’t stress! The contest is far from
mass, we’ve gotten some really cool submis- over! If you think you should be our lucky win-
sions in from readers who may be our contest ner, head on over to touristoftheyear.is and
winner. submit your tale! GOOD LUCK!

Contributing Writers: Art Director Founders:

Árni Hjörvar Hörður Kristbjörnsson / hordur@dodlur.is Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson,
Björn Teitsson Hörður Kristbjörnsson,
Bob Cluness Design: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson,
Carol Devine Guðmundur Úlfarsson / giu@grapevine.is Oddur Óskar Kjartansson,
Davíð Roach Gunnarsson Valur Gunnarsson
Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík Helgi Hrafn Guðmundsson Photographer:
www.grapevine.is Kári Tulinius Alísa Kalyanova / www. alisakalyanova.com The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd.
grapevine@grapevine.is John Rogers Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May til
Published by Fröken ehf. Patricia Þormar Sales Director: October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in
www.froken.is Sam Knight Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / adalsteinn@grapevine.is part without the written permission of the publishers. The Reykjavík
Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Helgi Þór Harðarson / helgi@grapevine.is Grapevine is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir,
www.saf.is Valur Gunnarsson Seyðisfjörður, Borgarnes, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key locations
Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. Vera Illugadóttir Distribution manager: along road #1, and all major tourist attractions and tourist information
distribution@grapevine.is centres in the country.
Editor In Chief: Journalist & Listings editor: You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored (no articles in
Haukur S Magnússon / haukur@grapevine.is Rebecca Louder / rebecca@grapevine.is Proofreader: the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed
Jim Rice are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’).
Editor: Journalist:
Anna Andersen / anna@grapevine.is Ingibjörg Rósa Björnsdóttir / ingibjorg@grapevine.is Listings:
Photographer:
listings@grapevine.is
Editorial: Axel Sigurðarson
YEARS
2003-2013

Editorial Interns:
SCHEDULE
Issue 12 × 2013
EXCERPTS
INSIDE August 16 - 29

+354 540 3600 / editor@grapevine.is www.axelsig.tumblr.com

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CRIME DANCE POLITICS FOOD TRAVEL
Grapevine gets an Your fucking face off! Invade Afghanistan Enjoy Prins Póló's Eyjafjallajökull
illegal strip dance It's a festival! (via feminist PsyOps) sausage done two ways
:-/

Tómas Gabríel Benjamin / gabriel@grapevine.is editor@grapevine.is Photo illustration by:

Advertising:
Hotel
Parker Yamasaki / parker@grapevine.is Reykjavík!
Döðlur
+354 540 3605 / ads@grapevine.is
Is

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this
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+354 40 3610
we

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want?

Special thanks:
And
if not,
why

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not?

Publisher: Hjörtur Hinriksson at Special Tours

General inquiries:
Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / hilmar@grapevine.is grapevine@grapevine.is
A tension is building. Reykjavík's illustrious 101 arts scene is feeling pushed out
by the forces of CAPITAL, cornered and marginalized by the wealthy, who want to

+354 540 3601 / publisher@grapevine.is

"fill downtown Reykjavík with hotels" so they can "capitalize on TOURISM
FRENZY," and city officials, who seem to be letting them "do whatever they feel
like" in the name of progress/profit. But is this the case? What's the story here?
Your Friends At The Grapevine investigate. Page 24

+ Complete Lots of
Reykjavík Listings cool events
Download the FREE Grapevine Appy Hour app!
Every happy hour in town in your pocket.
Available on the App store and on Android Market.

GEOTHERMAL
STEAM ROOMS
THERMAL

Be in your
BATHS
SAUNA

element Visit the Laugarvatn Fontana wellness centre. Relax in steam rooms over a natural
hot spring and open air thermal baths. Afterwards try local delicacies in our café.
Ask us how the locals at Laugarvatn use the steam baths!

The perfect rest stop between Thingvellir and Geysir

Open everyday 10-23
Make sure your Golden Circle tour completes the geothermal experience www.fontana.is
E&Co. – Mynd Ari Magg

ICELANDIC WOOL

WORN OUT
FOR CENTURIES
We offer clot h i n g & ot her merch a nd ise t h at
r em i nd s us of good old Icela nd

– V i s it ou r s t or e s: 101 R e y k ja v í k , A k u r e y r i a nd G e y si r, H au k a d a l . w w w. g e y si r. net –
 The Reykjavík Grapevine Say your piece, voice your opinion, send 4
your letters to: letters@grapevine.is

Sour grapes & stuff

MOST AWESOME LETTER

Dear Grapevine, Dear Lizanne,

I have visited Reykjavik every year for the past 4 years. I Ugh. Dude… we know. It’s rough, yeah? Yours is not
love this city, but there is one thing that I despise. Every time I the first letter we get about it! This place reminds us of that
walk by Svarta Kaffið , I get a sharp pain in my stomach. Their part in Ghost World where Enid finds the old racist Cook’s
signage, depicting a minstrel-esque character as their mascot, is Chicken poster and brings it into her art class as a statement
pretty damn offensive. How can people feel OK about patroniz- that the world is just as racist but it’s more white-washed and
ing this establishment? Not cool, Reykjavik, not cool. hidden away now.
Peace, This place basically never bothered to cover up their
Lizanne bigotry. It’s so blatantly stupid that it makes one wonder if
USA they don’t even realise how fucked up their “mascot” is. Are
they trying to be post-racial? What is even going on? On the
plus side, it’s right out there in the open for people to see and
make the choice about whether or not to patronise such an
establishment. Like with the Ghost World premise, other
places might harbour the same (or worse) attitudes but have

BE SQUARE
maybe just learned to cover it up and be “politically correct”
to the naked eye. It is complicated and maddening.
Maybe next time you come back you should go in there

AND BE THERE
and take them to task about it, since you feel very strongly.
Then you can swing by our offices and get your prize. Come
back soon!
Love,
The Grapevine
Gullfoss and Geysir are surely a must-see in Iceland,
but neither is something you eat. That's why we have
15 brilliant and creative hamburgers at
the Hamburger Factory.
Good morning or afternoon nor the value in general of these spoons. much of the commemorative spoon
Located on the groundfloor of the highest tower we are Rick and Sally , live in Atlan- We have reach a dead end in trying experts around our offices – our
of Reykjavík, and on the groundfloor of the historic ta Ga., USA. 3 weeks ago we attended to get information about the commemo- staffers are into thimbles, teacups,
Hotel Kea in Akureyri, the Hamburger Factory has an estate sale. rative spoons which appear to be his- bottled sailships and Elvis-on-vel-
been packed with burger-craving customers since it's The estate sale was for 2 sisters that toric. vet paintings, but not spoons! But
opening in april 2010. Among the regulars is Iceland's passed away and they were from New Can you provide a contact of any- those sound really great and prob-
best known fisherman, Eric Clapton. York City. The entire contents of the one who can help us , any information ably have a cool story attached.
estate sale had been in storage for over would be helpful. we are really trying Unfortunately we couldn’t find
Attention: Our hamburger buns are not round. 45 years. to find out the historic value , and any info about this Ari B. Björns-
They are square. Does it taste better? You tell us. We purchased several items and one would like for someone at the national son character, probably because
the items, thru some google research museum to get in touch with us. You he’s has his estate sold off too
are commemorative spoons made in are more that welcome to print the story if you know what we mean, but
The Hamburger Factory 1926 by a gold smith from Iceland and we would entertain any inquiries. hopefully someone reading this
named Thanks for your time has some helpful information. If
has two restaurants in Iceland. Ari B. Bjornsson. Rick and Sally anyone does, they should write us
These spoon were commissioned at grapevine@grapevine.is and we
by the Icelandic government for the Rick and Sally, you lucky devils will send them your way!
1000th Anniversary of the Icelandic you! Take care,
Alpingi from 930 to 1930. Sounds like you are sitting on The Grapevine
We are not sure of the historic value a goldmine, probably. We aren’t

hello! your magazine is awesome! Coming to Iceland at the Check out our Bar Guide. It's in our back issues and
end of September and wanted some more hints and tips on the front page of our website. Also, download our
on bars and clubs in reykjavik ? Any info would be great! Appy Hour app. It’ll help you get super shitfaced when
Vikram Khagram you’re here.
The Hamburger Factory Reykjavík Sjáumst!
Höfðatorg Tower. Groundfloor. The Grapevine

MOST AWESOME LETTER
TWO FREE PAIRS OF WOOLLEN SOCKS!
Yes, this lovely prize will keep your feet warm and cosy throughout your stay in Iceland and
in any subsequent places you might go that sometimes get cold. And these aren’t just any
old woollen socks either, these are the colourful, wonderful, extra-long kind from Geysir.

Congratulations to this issue's MOST AWESOME LETTER. Drop us a line at letters@

grapevine.is to find out how to collect those free socks! And if you’re in the market for some
socks come next issue, why not write us a wonderful reader letter to that same address.
Like Axl Rose said: “It’s so easy!”
The Hamburger Factory Akureyri
Kea Hotel. Groundfloor.

HOW TO GET THERE

SOME TIPS ON HOW TO GET TO US WHILE LOOKING COOL AND LOCAL

This is what you say to the taxi driver

or when asking locals for directions:
“Íslenska Hamborgarafabrikkan, takk”
(„The Icelandic Hamburger Factory, please“)
When you arrive you tell the waiter:
“Sælar! Hvað er að frétta”
(Hello! What‘s up)
“Ég er þokkalega svangur,
get ég fengið hamborgara”
(I‘m quite hungry, can I get a hamburger)
From that point on you are in good hands.
Be there or be square!
Opening hours: Reservations:
Sun.-Wed. 11.00 – 22.00 Tel: 575 7575
Thu.-Sat. 11.00 – 24.00 fabrikkan@fabrikkan.is
www.fabrikkan.is
Þingholtsstræti 2-4 - 101 Reykjavík » Fákafen 9 - 108 Reykjavík » Austurvegi 21 - 870 Vík » icewear.is
 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 6

Iceland | Stripping

Twenty Thousand ISK Gets You An Illegal Strip Dance

by Tómas Gabriel Benjamin

A thickly set man sitting by the stairs leading to the VIP Club nods as I pass him on my way up from the ground floor sports club called Home. Once upstairs,
I pass a man in his forties who is on his way out as I go inside, through the heavy blinds, which serve as a door to the club. Six scantily clad women sit around
the bar table, and a seventh serves as bar maid and presumably matron of the establishment. The dark wood and black leather interiors are illuminated by a
series of tacky red lights. The women greet me with warm, but contrived, smiles. Rhythmic pop and RnB tunes play softly in the background.

Reykjavík’s Cham-
pagne Clubs
Today there are three champagne clubs operating in
Reykjavík: Strawberries, Crystal and VIP club (the lat-
ter two opened this year).
In July, Fréttablaðið sent two informants to inter-
view the women working at these champagne clubs
who found that they were all foreigners who had been
in Iceland for a week, spoke little English, and lived
together in a small apartment. The reporters were told
that they could do “what they wanted” with the women
for 10 minutes in privacy for 20,000 ISK, without any
further explanation.
When Björk Vilhelsmdóttir, a city councilperson,
and Steinunn Gyðu- and Guðjónsdóttir, the director
of Kristínarhús, a shelter for women exiting traffick-
ing and prostitution, spoke out against the champagne
clubs, they were threatened with lawsuits for slander.
Vilhjálmur H. Vilhjálmsson, the lawyer representing
Crystal and VIP club, demanded that they withdraw
their remarks suggesting that there were signs of hu-
man trafficking and prostitution taking place at the
champagne clubs.
Vilhjálmur further attacked the character and
credentials of María Lilja Þrastardóttir, the journalist
who reported on the champagne clubs. Vilhjálmur said
María “is a hardcore feminist and spokesperson for
the Slutwalk, who is not capable of reporting anything
other than her personal views, which makes it impos-
sible for her to approach any subject with objectivity.”
Chair of Reykjavík City Council Dagur B. Eggert-
son said during a speech at the Slutwalk that “we will
not let lawsuits discourage us.” The City Council is
Stefán Einarson currently looking into the legality of champagne clubs.

This image is from Stígamót’s campaign against sexual exploitation and human trafficking. “The idea came from designer Stefán Einarson,
and we felt it was the strongest move to print with as little text as possible,” spokesperson Guðrún Jónsdóttir said. “We have given several
“It is not permissible for restaurants
groups permission to use it, including for a book cover in Bulgaria, posters for organisations all over Eastern Europe, and the Nest in Den-
[which include bars] to offer nude shows,
mark which is a home for victims of trafficking. It has become so well-known worldwide that occasionally we get foreigners accusing us
promote or profit in any way from the nu-
of trying to appropriate it.” Stígamót kicked off their own “champagne club” nights on Thursday, August 15 to raise awareness about sex
dity of staff or others present.”
crimes worldwide and to raise money for the centre, which counsels hundreds of sexual assault and rape survivors each year.
- Article 4, section 4 of Icelandic law
85/2007, amended on March 23 2010
I had spent the afternoon preparing so as to not reveal we can do together tonight. “We can have a lot of fun me. I ask her if she has a shaved pussy. She tells me
myself as a journalist on a quest to discover whether tonight… if you want,” she responds. “You can stay it’s shaved. She tells me teasingly that I won’t get to

“
or not illegal stripping was taking place at the club. I hours, we can drink champagne. What do you think see for myself, but then takes off her panties. I look
had watched episodes of ‘The Thick Of It,’ re-enact- about that?” “I think I would like to see you naked,” at my watch; we are five minutes into our proposed Is VIP Club Breaking The Law?
ing the mannerism and accent of some of the actors. I I reply. “Yeah, really?” she says. “I would,” I say. fifteen and she’s already naked in front of me.
trimmed my beard, donned the suit I had worn daily
to work in London, spit shined my shoes and ironed Paying to access her body The owners say:
my shirt. Finally, I had drunk a smooth double Glen-
livet whisky as I rehearsed my cover story, calmed my Lisa asks me what I’m thinking, and I tell her I want Mikael Nikkulásson, the most well known of the
nerves and stopped my hands from shaking. to touch her pussy, asking how much that would cost. owners, claimed that another person whose name he
Lisa asks me what I’m She answers “if you pay one hour, one champagne,
and some tips,” and that we can do that in the club.
couldn’t remember was completely responsible for
running the club. Mikael said customers could buy
thinking, and I tell her I
Meeting Lisa
She asks me if I want to buy more time since our expensive drinks and take it easy in the VIP Club. He
I step forward to the girl closest to me, a blonde fifteen minutes are up. I check my watch and pro- denied knowing what purchasing ‘private time’ with
woman who looks to be in her late twenties, and we
have a quick chat. She seems eager to please, gig-
want to touch her pussy, test it has only been seven minutes. She assures me
that she knows the time is up as she starts getting
ladies entailed, and refused to comment further. An-
other of the owners did not want to speak about the
gling at what I say and responding in a flirty voice. asking how much that dressed. club, stating that he was trying to get out of the busi-

„
I ask to see the menu, and the matron hands over a I ask how much sex would cost, and she says, “we ness as quickly as possible.
single laminated A4 sheet. There are six or so drinks
on the menu, and the lower half simply says “pri-
would cost. She an- cannot have sex here, but we can have a lot of fun
here, and make me want you, then maybe I will meet The lawyer says:
vate time,” with times ranging from 15 minutes for
20,000 to 1 hour for 60,000 ISK. I ask for 15 min-
swers: “If you pay one you after. Let’s start to drink a little, we can talk
a bit, then come back here if you like, for a while. Vilhjálmur H. Vilhjálmsson, the club’s lawyer, imme-
utes, and the matron asks me “with who?” I ask the
blonde woman what her name is, and she says Lisa,
hour, one champagne, I think it works good like that.” She’s put on her
clothes at this point, and we start walking out.
diately asked whether the article would be a journal-
istic one, or “politically correct femi-communist pro-
from [eastern European country].
I pay the matron in cash and she asks me where
and some tips.” She asks me what I want to do, and I tell her I
need to go get more money to keep going. She as-
paganda.” He answered my questions with questions
of his own about the contents of the article. He stated
I’m from. I tell her England, and she tells me they get sures me they take all kinds of cards, as well as that he was not a PR person for the club, and suggested
a lot of English guys. They also have English girls, pounds and euro notes, but I tell her I’d rather go get I visit it myself before writing anything about it. The
she tells me, but they weren’t working that evening. more cash. She tells me they are open until 1:00 AM, lawyer also suggested that somebody other than the
Lisa leads me upstairs to the top floor. A small and until 5:00 AM on weekends. I ask again how building owner is responsible for running the club.
dance floor is beaming with disco lights, but six She straddles me, and puts my hands on her. If much one-hour is as we walk down the stairs, and
curtained-off booths that look to be 2x5 metres in there was a look but don’t touch rule in play, then she says 60,000 ISK, asking if it sounds good in a The operational manager says:
dimensions occupy the majority of the space. She Lisa wasn’t playing by the rules. She then stands up coquettish manner. When we get to the bar, she asks
takes me into one of the booths and I sit down in a and takes her dress off slowly, revealing matching me if I want to buy her a drink, and I tell her I’ll first The person in question is Kristján Georg Jósteins-
leather sofa. As soon as the curtains are drawn, she black lingerie. Every question I have is met with ei- get more money. son, the operational manager of the company Almitra
starts dancing. ther a flirty giggling answer or a confused look as I pull back the black blinds serving as a door, ehf, which runs the club. He described the place as a
she takes a moment to understand what I’m asking. walk down the stairs and through the ground floor nightclub with a well-stocked bar. He stated clearly
The clothes start coming off… She then takes off her bra, but only after stating that sports bar. People cheer as a goal is scored, and I that stripping and prostitution were illegal in Iceland,
she’s the boss and dictates what happens. slip out. I get flooded with a range of emotions from and that these services were not being offered at the
She has long hair that hangs down past her shoul- I ask her if she gets this naked for everyone or if disgust, anger and shame, but they settle at simply club. He said that buying ‘private time’ with the ladies
der blades, and is wearing a black top that almost I’m just lucky, and she says with tongue in cheek “no, feeling sullied. involved a friendly, secluded chat and nothing more.
meets her stockings and knee-high leather boots. It usually I don’t do topless.” But she assures me her * Lisa’s name and a few other details have been He then got defensive, asked about what political
takes all of my acting prowess to smile back at her as boss doesn’t have a problem with her doing it, and I changed to protect her identity. party I voted for, and wanted to retract his statements.
she starts rubbing up against me, climbing over the that I wouldn’t get into trouble. She keeps dancing,
couch like a cat begging to be petted. I ask her what rubbing her breasts in my face, and climbing over
 Free
bus drive
from Tourist Information
in Aðalstræti!

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 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 8

Iceland | FAQ AUGUST

So What's This Icelandic Horse NEWS IN BRIEF

Competition I've Been Hearing About?

by Parker Yamasaki

Word on the street is, Jesus was

probably gay. And it's Reykjavík

by Kári Tulinius
Mayor Jón Gnarr's word, so it's
probably true. At a conference
in Belgium in connection with
the World Outgames, Jón gave a
speech on international human
As far as anyone can tell, horses generally rights, emphasising the responsibil-
ity of the politician to ensure equal
have no opinion in which country they exist.
rights. In the process, he scorned
They want food, shelter and companionship religions which condemn individu-
from other horses, and the opportunity to als for their sexuality, quipping that
run about. Icelandic horses do not even seem perhaps the reason Jesus was cruci-
to mind if the other equines in the vicinity fied was because he may have been
are abnormally large. gay himself.

I wasn't going to bring this

up but, uh... aren't Icelandic Somebody ought to alert Frank-
lin Graham, a notorious anti-gay
horses really ponies?
preacher who is coming to give a
speech at a festival in Iceland in
No. I mean, technically yes, but emotionally September. The national church
no. Though most Icelandic horses are small- started promoting the festival the
er than the height usually thought to connote same week Pride was being held.

“
a pony, traditionally they have been referred That raised a pretty interesting con-
flict of interest.
to as horses. This goes for other breeds as
well. Mongolian horses are about the same
size as Icelandic ones, but you would not

Once an Icelan-
dic horse leaves
It’s kind of like the opening of a

„
"champagne club" at Stígamót,
the sexual assault crisis centre in

the country it is
Reykjavík. On Thursday August
15, Stígamót opened its all-sexes

never allowed to
Champagne Club which included
private shows, free-flowing cham-
pagne, the reciting of traditional

return.
Icelandic rhymes, a demonstration
on how to knit a wool poncho in ten
minutes, and short talks on the his-
tory and importance of Stígamót for
just 20,000 ISK. All of your tradition-
Illustration: Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir al champagne club services, with a
couple "added bonuses." The club
will serve both as a fundraiser for
Since 1991 there have been world champi- breeds and Mongolian horses. It also grows both in riding competitions and breeding call Genghis Khan's horse a pretty pony. Not
the centre and as a proper demon-
onships of the Icelandic horse. In case that a hipster-y beard, and has released a split contests. stration of ironic Icelandic humour.
twice, anyway. So the proper way to refer to
sentence makes absolutely no sense, and I seven-inch vinyl single with The Knife. an Icelandic horse, for instance if you would
should explain that there is a breed of horse So do the horses return in like to alert your travelling companions to
that originated in Iceland. And that there is Oh pish, the hippest horse is a triumph to Iceland? its presence, is to point with an out-stretched Maybe it was that same sense of
a worldwide association, called FEIF that, horse you've never heard of. hand and shout: "Majestic horse!" Try it out,
humour that financial journalist
among other things, keeps track of breed- No. Once an Icelandic horse leaves the it feels pretty good.
Cyrus Sanati was trying to tap into
when he declared that Iceland was
ing standards, does outreach and organises FEIF has been doing its best to make people country it is never allowed to return. Due well on its way to another financial
competitions, including a biannual world aware of the Icelandic horse and its world to Iceland's geographic isolation on the far meltdown. Except he forgot to add
MAJESTIC HORSE! You're
championship. And 1991 was a year in the championship. The opening ceremony in- northern edge of the North Atlantic, the the quintessential "djók" at the end
right, that does feel good.
last century so long ago that U2 was still volved four hundred horses being ridden to country's equine population has not been of the statement, so nobody found it
relevant. the Brandenburg Gate in Berlin, with one of exposed to many common diseases, such as very funny. In his article for Fortune
Icelandic horses are one of the draws for magazine, Sanati states that the
the riders being Dorrit Moussaieff, the first horse influenza, equine herpes and stran- tourists in Iceland. For a while now the Ice- measures employed by the Icelan-
Hey, lay off U2, Bono's such lady of Iceland. The association has done its gles. And because you would not wish a dis- landic horse population outside of the coun- dic banks and government follow-
a good man that it's in his best to drum up interest in the week-long ease with the horrifying name of strangles try, around a hundred thousand, half being ing the crash were only temporary
name, and The Edge will cut event, which has the slogan "One World, on your worst enemy, you definitely do not in Germany, exceeds the total horse popu-
solutions, and the supports current-
Five Gaits." want your beloved horse to contract it, let ly steadying the Icelandic economy
you. lation of Iceland, which is around eighty are beginning to crumble.
alone an island full of them. So once a horse thousand. So there are a lot of people out
Coincidentally or not, in 1991, U2 recorded We get to carry each other, leaves the country, it cannot return. there in the world who like Icelandic horses.
‘Achtung Baby’ in Berlin, and this year the carry each other... Many of them travel to this isolated island
Icelandic Horse World Championships are In my mind's eye I see Icelan- on the far northern edge of the North Atlan- Now before you go running outside
also in Berlin. That location makes a certain That is not even in the right place in the song! for that nervous cigarette, you may
dic horses standing on a hill, tic, point at visible equines and alert their
want to think about how much it
amount of sense. This breed has a certain Also, please refrain from getting U2 songs staring back home to Iceland, companions with a hearty: "Majestic horse!"
hipster cachet. It has five gaits, one more stuck in my head. The Icelandic Equestrian with sadness in their eyes, They are hip enough to not say pony.
than most horses, including an ambling Association sent a team of horses and riders love in their heart, eating a Continues over
one called tölt, which is found only in a few to compete, and by all accounts they have
carrot.
other breeds, such as northern Norwegian done very well, coming first in many events,

Concert in Harpa, the new concert hall in Iceland

August 29, at 19:30

Seven countries
one united sound
Works by Prokofiev and Bartók

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 THIS IS IT 2013
GENTLE GIANTS WELCOME
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 Finback whales are being hunted exclusively by the company Hvalur hf.
The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 Their buyers in Japan recently cancelled their contract after it was revealed
10
the meat was being used for dog treats.
AUGUST
Iceland | Whaling
NEWS IN BRIEF
The Wrong Kind Of Whale Watching Continued

By Rebecca Louder
is going to cost, as many tobacco
smokers around Iceland have been
doing. Following the 15% increase
of the tax on tobacco at the start
of the year, tobacco sales have
dropped by 10.4% since January.
Plus, smoking conditions are prob-
ably unfavourable with the recent
trend of "gloomiest weather since..."
headlines. This past month Reykja-
vík was subject to the coldest July
since 2002, with an average temper-
ature of 10,6°C.

Furthermore, the former Minister of

Finance Gylfi Magnússon assures
Iceland that Sanati's claims are pre-
sumptuous and wrong. Santani's
charge against Iceland's "zombie
banks" would not even apply to the
old banking system, Gylfi remarks,
let alone the new one which San-
tani doesn't seem to know anything
about. Basically, according to Gylfi,
Santani is just being a drama queen.
Rebecca Louder

“How mentally prepared for this should we be?” I asked our driver, Marvin Lee Dupree, as we approached But being a drama queen isn't al-
ways a bad thing, especially if you

the turn-off to Hvalfjörður. Marvin paused, made a pensive sneer and replied. “It’s pretty gnarly.”
were competing in Reykjavík's sec-
ond annual drag contest held in
Harpa's Eldborg concert hall over
Pride week. Congratulations to the
On Friday, August 2, we received a call to our office from dock, a second whale was being dragged through the cally or personally. 'Foxy Ladies' duo Márky Cántalejo
known activist Sigursteinn Másson inviting us along open water up to the dock. and Chris Mercado and to Brjánn
to an anti-whale hunting protest set up by the Interna- One worker walked around with a large mop pushing Pointless Hróðmarsson for being crowned
tional Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW). The whaling waves of blood back towards the sea, which was already this year's Drag Queens and King.
And thanks for contributing to Ice-
ships Hvalur 8 and Hvalur 9 had reportedly caught two full of crimson pools. The work was done quickly to the Meanwhile, the protestors had gathered on the side of the land's growing reputation as great
fin whales, despite having no current buyer for the meat point of appearing sloppy, with seemingly little atten- hill overlooking the dock, holding up cardboard hands entertainers.
or any means of shipping it through other countries, and tion paid to hygiene. The work-dock and carcass were pointing towards the ocean that read, “What’s the point?”

“
were dragging them into the fjord to the whaling station. not hosed off during the carving and workers wantonly along with a large cloth banner that reiterated the ques-
A few of us at Grapevine decided to go along. switched between walking on the ground and on the tion. While implicitly peaceful, the protesters were al-
spine. The place emanated an acrid smell, similar to the most passive, spending the time quietly observing the
Into the fjord activity of the whaling workers, or chit-chatting amongst
themselves. The lines between interested onlooker, hor-
Approaching the mouth of the fjord, we noticed two rified visitor and outraged protester were almost impos-
boats tailing each other towards the whaling station, sible to distinguish, save for those cardboard hands.
and Marvin sped up the car. “I want us to be ready The workers finished butchering up the first whale
for them when they get there,” he said, referring to the Marvin walked down from and dragged the remaining chunks off, dropping them
That reputation, by the way, was
given a pretty hefty boost when
protestors. Finally he pulled off the road and parked in into holes in the dock that possibly led to further process-
the hillside and pointed my
Rolling Stone magazine named
front of a chain link fence, next to several other vehi- ing or simply a refuse pile. Marvin walked down from Sigur Rós one of the Top 50 Great-
cles. “This is kind of a community event. People in the the hillside and pointed my attention toward a worker

„
est Live Acts Right Now. The article
area come out to see this.”
A few steps past the other cars I looked down to
attention towards a worker heading to the far back end of the dock, dragging away
with him the titular fin. It was taken somewhere out of
likened the band's trippy stage pres-
ence to Pink Floyd, and praised Jón-

heading towards the far back

si for his crowd-destroying union of
the right at what appeared to be the lower-half of a fin sight but not discarded, most likely to be kept as a trophy. bow and guitar.
whale laid out on an open concrete dock, sawed clean The second whale was now attached by its tail to the
through at the midsection and splayed open lengthwise,
exposing muscle, entrails and the spine. About a dozen
end of the dock, dragging hook-line of one of the pulleys and gradually brought
up onto the dock in the same place the first whale had
male workers in waterproof coveralls walked around
away with him the titular fin. been. The workers stood around it, dwarfed by the mass Speaking of harmonious unions, Di-
rector Baltasar Kormákur and CCP
and on the carcass using chainsaws and large straight of the second largest cetacean in the ocean. At this
Games are joining forces to create a
hooks to cut off pieces of flesh, meat and bone, and then point, there didn’t seem to be much need to watch the TV series based on the wildly popu-
drag them over to various areas of the work-dock, seem- slow-motion replay. lar game, EVE Online. He admits
ingly dependent on where the parts were headed to next. The protest broke up and people began heading back that his personal interest in gaming
to their vehicles, save for a few onlookers there for neu- never really evolved beyond a brief
Mechanical animals metallic salty taste of putting an old key in your mouth. tral observation (or perhaps genuine entertainment? Pac-Man affinity as a child, but he
uses this as an asset to make the
Masses of birds flocked onto the whale as it was Who’s to say). On the drive back, through the warm, sun-
series appealing to a wider range of
Large automatic pulleys were installed on the work- dragged through the open water, pecking at it and get- filled fjord, our intern spoke up. “It’s weird because I’d people, and hopefully bring in some
dock and a hook-line was drawn from the back-end ting their fill. Once the second whale reached the edge never seen a whale before,” she said. “And now the first new fans. You got this, Kormákur.
pulley, attached to the skin of the whale—which had al- of the dock, it stayed bobbing in the water for several time I saw one, it was dead.”
ready been loosened by the workers—and then stripped minutes while a group of about eight people stood
off the carcass in one mechanical motion. As the work- down at the edge looking at it from up close. Marvin
ers finished removing the skin and dragged it into a later said that these were most likely people invested
container full of (presumably) water at the back of the in whale hunting in some way, be it monetarily, politi-

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 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 12

Iceland | Religion Raising The Mosque

All That’s Changing Is The Building

Former chair of the Association
of Muslims Salmann Tamimi tells
us about the application process,
which they reiterated and chased
on a yearly basis. The City Planning
The story of the new mosque in Reykjavík Committee has always been eager
to help, but the application was

by Tómas Gabriel Benjamin

stalled year and year.

1999
The first application for a plot of land
tion, and we will get a formal answer in in Islam. You find that interpretation is handed to then Mayor of Reyk-
two weeks’ time, although everybody repeated within small extremist groups, javík Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladóttir.
says it has been granted. In 2006, the and from Islamophobists. One of our Originally, the Association looked at
religious communities that did not have five board members is a woman, and we Öskjuhlíð as a possible site.
buildings were promised plots for them, abide by Icelandic equality laws. If it’s
as religious communities are entitled to the law in Iceland, then it’s our law. 2004
one piece of land for free. The promise The Association receives no an-
Is there then a possibility of get-
was made in 2006 to the pagan society, swer about their suggested plot in
ting a female to lead prayer?
the Russian Orthodox Church, and the Öskjuhlíð and suggests a plot near
Buddhists. The three of them have their If I speak for myself, I would remind Elliðaárdalur.
land, and now we will get ours. people that there have been sessions in
New York for example, where a woman 2006
During this process, has the
has led prayers. It created a lot of fuss, The Independence and Progres-
Council been trying to accom-
and discussion, but several of the learned sive parties form a coalition gov-
modate your needs?
scholars supported it. I personally have ernment. Three religious commu-
Yes. It maybe has something to do nothing against it, but I don’t speak for nities are given vacant plots. The
with ECRI [the European Commission the community, some of whom would Association of Muslims in Iceland
against Racism and Intolerance], which have difficulty with that. is not given one. Mayor Vilhjálmur
put this application on their watch list Þ. Vilhjálmsson says the plot in El-
And are there other members
four years ago. ECRI visits European liðaárdalur is unsuited for a mosque
that would support it?
countries every four years and asks very and would be a nature reserve.
simple questions: what’s the situation Yes, some. There is currently a big move-
with the Jews, women, and Muslims? If ment of Islamist Feminism emerging, 2008
they don’t like the situation, they make and they are making a lot of progress. It Ólafur F. Magnússon becomes may-
a complaint, which would label Iceland is very debated, but of course the women or of Reykjavík for the Liberal Party.
as being racist and intolerant. And Reyk- will win, as they always do. It’s an inevi- Five members are kicked out of the
javík doesn’t want this, so that probably table change, and there is nothing in the Association of Muslims for negative
helped the application. tenets of Islam that would not allow it. and racist attitudes. They form their
If a female guest speaker were to come own congregation, called the Islam-
Pan-European problems ic Cultural Centre of Iceland.
An Icelandic mosque
What kind of feedback has the
Association received regarding with Icelandic values 2010
Axel Sigurðarson A new coalition of the Best Party
the mosque? Where will you be getting the and Social Democratic Alliance
I think it’s actually been positive. Most funds to raise the mosque?
The Association of Muslims in Iceland has been cramped in people were happy, but there is a small We haven’t started raising money, but
forms City Council.

the first floor of a building in the industrial neighbourhood of group protesting the mosque, and they we will be very careful not to risk our 2011
have more than two thousand members independence with strict conditions of
Skeifan for the last decade. Their 170-square-metre mosque on their Facebook page. But all the accepting donations. We want to be an
Reykjavík City Council reaches out

is fitted with a kitchen, a toilet, and a small prayer room,

to the Association of Muslims and
people I know are very positive, and I Icelandic mosque for Icelandic Mus- starts looking for suitable land.
which barely accommodates the congregation. And when it haven’t had people come up to me with
negative criticism. I do see what the op-
lims. We would prefer to get the money
from individuals who give in the name
comes to special functions such as weddings or funerals, they ponents write though, and I think the of Allah and not for themselves or their
2013
The Planning Committee of Reyk-
must relocate to a chapel in Fossvogur. With 475 members, guys fighting against this are not very ideology. We have to raise somewhere javík City Council approve plot of
high class. between 250–350 million ISK, and we’d
the Association is desperately in need of more space. like to finish building the mosque in
land for the building of a Mosque.
Has your congregation run Ólafur F. Magnússon and others
two years, and given the process we can condemn the plans.
into discrimination?
probably start building next spring.
Recently, the Planning Committee of thing is not right. Not so much, actually. It’s the same real- 2015
Former Mayor Ólafur F. Magnús-
Reykjavík City Council approved a plot ity as in most of Europe, where it is more Expected completion of the
Do you know why it’s taken this son said that the new mosque
of land for the building of a mosque large difficult for dark skinned people to get mosque.
long? endangered the culture and
enough for the Association in Sogamýri. work. But the Muslims who live here
safety of Iceland, and others
The new mosque is expected to be 800 No, but I suppose they do not like Mus- are pleased with Iceland as Icelanders
have gone so far as to say that
square metres, capable of hosting a lims. are very nice to them. It has been a little
it will be a breeding ground for
range of functions, and with a library at- bit difficult being Muslim in the last Converting To Islam
And who are they? terrorism in Iceland. How do you
tached. The congregation will soon hold few years, and some of the more hateful
respond to these accusations?
an architectural competition in associa- The Independence Party, but they are no speech involves distorting what Islam Sverrir converted to Islam when he
tion with the City Council to design the longer in power [The Best Party governs actually is. We have been running a mosque in Ice- was in his twenties. In 1972, Sver-
mosque. We met with Sverrir Agnarson, Reykjavík City Council today], and they land for ten years now, and nobody is rir was working as a horse herder in
an Icelandic Muslim and the Associa- have also changed over these years. Female leadership complaining about it. We have not bred Spain, and decided to visit the Hi-
tion’s chair for the last two years, to dis- any terrorism or made any problems malayas. Whilst in Pakistan he was
cuss these developments. First successful application Muslims have been accused of for anybody, so I don’t think that will introduced to Islam, and was fasci-
not supporting gender equal- change. The only thing that will change nated with the idea of having no im-
How long has it taken the as- When did you submit your ity. How do you respond to that is the building. This mosque is now too age of god, but worshipping some-
sociation to get the plot for the newest application? accusation? small for us. We would also like to have thing you didn’t quite understand.
new mosque?
For the past two years we’ve worked with I just recommend people read the Quran, more space for a library and a place to After discussions with mystics, he
The first application was submitted in the City to find a place for us. Two or where I don’t see any sexism. I know the host lectures, introducing people to Is- was convinced and has remained a
1999, and the fact that it has taken 13 three weeks ago they accepted the plan, verses people like to interpret that way, lam in a better and more efficient way. practicing Muslim since.
years to be approved tells you that some- so now we have submitted our applica- but that interpretation is not common

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WHALE WATCHING
and other adventures at sea from Reykjavík
Elding Whale Watching schedule – all year round
EL-01 / EL-02 / EL-03
Jan-Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov-Dec
9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00
2013
10:00 10:00 10:00
13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00
14:00 14:00 14:00
17:00* 17:00 17:00 17:00 17:00*
20:30** 20:30

* From 15 May to 15 September

** From 15 June to 31 July
 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 14

Going Postal In Reykjavík A New

A day in the life of a summer mail carrier
by Adrienne Blaine
Neighbourhood
Watch In Force
Reporting all lost looking
cats to Kattavaktin
by Tómas Gabríel Benjamin

Axel Sigurðarson

Each summer, Reykjavík goes on holiday; residents vacate their residences and the post
marks their mail with a pink return sticker with the “gone away” box ticked. Even the postal
workers who normally sort this mail take time off. So who delivers the mail from May to
September? This is where 29-year-old Maren Winkler from Germany comes in.

Maren is just one of many young foreigners who took up mail carry- she removes the rubber bands and pushes them up her wrist—by the
ing for Pósturinn as a summer job. You may recognise them by the end of the day you can tell how many houses she has visited by the
cherry-red sweatshirts, ear-warmers and rain trousers. For many of bands stacked on her arms. And with anywhere between five and
these university-age substitutes, carrying mail represents a romantic twelve hours of deliveries, Maren could have her own shot at the
return to the days of the envelope in an email age. And although the world’s largest rubber band ball by the end of the summer.
job requires little Icelandic language proficiency, it offers carriers the
chance to integrate themselves into Icelandic society. Junk mail day

Guðmundur? Gunnar? As you may already know, Thursday is junk mail day, and therefore
the bane of any Icelandic mail carrier. Last week Maren had 100 kg
Guðbrandur?
of Ikea kitchen catalogues to deliver to nearly every house on her

“
At first Maren had a hard time distinguishing between Icelandic route. Do everyone a favour and put the red, “no junk mail” sticker Sigrún Karlsdóttir
names, but now she is a regular pro. We discussed the prevalence of on your mail slot. Also while you’re at it, make sure your name is
the name Guðmundur in particular. She also quickly learned the Ice- above the slot and notify the post office when you move. It’s the right
landic phrases for, “Does this person still live here?,” and “Sorry, I thing to do. In a warm and quaint little flat in 107 Friðrik and Sólrún harness this sym-
accidentally put the mail into the wrong slot.” Reykjavík, Friðrik Jónsson and Sólrún pathy and awareness into a far-reach-
“It makes me feel a part of society and Reykjavík because you Gunnarsdóttir’s faces are illuminated ing information network, focused on

„
keep everything going in your own small way,” Maren said. Deliver- by the blue Facebook hue from their keeping eyes open for lost cats.
ing the mail on foot also means learning neighbourhoods and becom- laptops’ screens. Unlike other young At present, there are almost 1,200
ing attached to them and their inhabitants.
As I walked with Maren on her route in the 105 district, I I think it’s something special married couples, Friðrik and Sólrún
are not passing time online because
members in the group, many of whom
are active in the community. “Cats
discovered she had actually been delivering mail to a flat I’ve
been subletting in the 101 district. Even though it was no longer to say I have been a mail car- they’ve grown bored with each other.
They are working on a group they
are kind of big on the internet,” Sól-
rún says, explaining the group’s quick

rier in Reykjavík, Iceland.

her route, she still remembered the exact location, and had even created called Kattavaktin (“The Cat growth. And the scores of memes,
snapped a picture of a gnome in my yard on her last day as a Watch”), which helps cat owners find Youtube videos and blogs dedicated
memento. Although she was sad to leave her favourite neigh- their lost pets. to cats suggest she is right.
bourhood in Reykjavík, she was pleased to finally spot Reykja- Reykjavík is teeming with an esti- Friðrik says they have a lot of suc-
vík Mayor Jón Gnarr, on her last day in 101. mated 12,000 felines. They lie lazily cess with the group. The first cat
As we walked around her new neighbourhood, I kept for- on walls and roofs, climb trees, chase returned involved a match made in
getting to go up to the door with her. I am not accustomed to
walking up to strangers’ doors; I was reminded of childhood While Maren curses junk mail she takes delight in postcards,
games of ding-dong-ditch, but instead of ringing the door bell (especially those written in German—not that she reads them or
and running away, we were pushing mail through slots hoping
territorial dogs wouldn’t bite our fingers off. Luckily we only
ran into one aggressive Pomeranian, who laughably overcom-
anything), handwritten letters (bonus points for drawings on the en-
velopes), children’s books or quirky items like a plank of wood or a
single sheet of loose paper.
“Cats are kind of
pensated for its small stature and ridiculous coif.
The neighbourhood cats on the other hand, couldn’t be friend-
lier. There are also other perks to mail carrying, the exercise and the
Maren marvels at how she is expected to fit things through such
slim mail slots sometimes. And while this may not have been per-
fectly legal, she let me deliver some letters and I have to say it was
big on the internet.”
chance to listen to your own soundtrack. Maren’s varies depending quite satisfying.
on the weather: Nick Drake when it’s sunny and Melodica when it’s
cloudy, but most days she finds herself listening to the German rap- All the magic this world has to offer each other, and wait for passers-by heaven where two people shared a
per, Casper. As a singer/songwriter herself this time to listen to music to shower them with affection. When photo of the same cat—one advertis-
is particularly important to Maren. When I met Maren for the first time, I knew I had to jump on the they go missing, their owners are ing their lost pet and the other look-
chance to see what delivering the mail was like. And not surpris- thrown into a state of panic. Now, in ing for its owner. And more recently,
Unlike America, where no ingly I am not the only one who has had this excited reaction. One addition to police, vets and animal Friðrik was out knocking on doors
of Maren’s friends from Germany, Matthias, served as her first mail shelters, they can turn to Kattavaktin. with a search party when a woman
one gives a flying fuck
carrying “intern.” Users of the online community produced a kitten that had wandered
At each address we reached, she checked the name on the envelope Like me, he has fostered a life-long obsession with mail carrying post pictures of cats that have gone into her home, believing it to be the
against the name on the door, which puzzled me at first. Unlike my as a profession. As children of the net generation, we grew up with missing or have been found. Through one they were looking for. It was not,
native America, where no one gives a flying fuck whether you get the email. And we are not the only ones who react positively to Maren’s word of mouth and organised search but Friðrik fortunately recognised the
correct mail, Iceland will not deliver letters to addresses that aren’t summer job. She often finds people are unexpectedly excited by her parties a la neighbourhood watches, kitten as somebody else’s lost pet and
correctly marked. In fact, nearly every day, Maren has letters and work. She admits, “There is a certain excitement with me being the owners can be a part of the solution returned it to its owners.
catalogues she cannot in good conscience deliver. Each morning, she official person putting mail in the slot.” instead of waiting passively for some- As Kattavaktin has grown, they’ve
thus uses Pósturinn’s database to determine whether an address is And while letters delivered instantly as code through electric thing to happen. implemented certain protocols for
incorrect, the recipient has moved, is away or in some unfortunate cables at the speed of light might have dazzled some, I was always moderating the site, spending their
cases, has passed away. convinced it was the physical letter carried by the omnipresent postal The cat watch assembles evenings in front of Facebook, delet-
In the morning I helped her sort the mail into shelves of mint worker that contained all the magic this world had to offer. This may ing funny memes and cute pictures.
green, black and red plastic dividers. Seeing each Icelandic postmark have something to do with the fact that Harry Potter did not receive Friðrik and Sólrún believe that cat lov- The last thing they want is for posts
peeking out from their little cubbies made me feel so orderly and ac- his letter from Hogwarts via Hotmail. ers are very aware of the cats in their of lost cats to get buried under tan-
complished, but the task was far from done. Next we had to bundle As magical as being a mail carrier may seem to me, it is certainly neighbourhood, spotting new faces gential information and at end of the
each group of letters according to residence and street and place not as flexible or friendly everywhere as it is in Iceland. Maren said easily. “If you see a cat that looks out day, the work is worth it thanks to the
them in her mail trolley in the correct order: first houses’ mail on she would not be interested in working for the German postal author- of place or lost,” Friðrik says, “you army of sympathetic people offering
top, last houses’ mail at the bottom. ity. “I would only want to do it here. I think it’s something special to want to help, but you can’t just take help and support.
“Rubber bands are VERY important,” Maren said as she snapped say I have been a mail carrier in Reykjavík, Iceland.” the cat; then you’d be stealing it.”
two around a thick stack of envelopes. As she delivers each bundle
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 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 16

Iceland | Tech

Pile O’Mail
A closer look at new Reykjavík-based webmail project, Mailpile
by Shea Sweeney

and use encryption. Helping to develop Mailpile better than what we have in our laps, but it turns out
seems a natural next step for Smári who was re- that’s not really true,” Bjarni says. “And the reason

“
cently notified by Google that a United States court that we then become faster than interacting with
had ordered an extensive classified search of his something like Gmail is that the computer is right
Gmail account metadata. “This would never happen in your lap. It’s closer to you.”
if his email was on his own computer in his own
home, because if they want to access that they have
to come knocking on his door, present him with a
warrant, and talk to him,” Bjarni says.

I was getting frustrated

The Mailpile team’s 100,000 USD goal will go
toward the development of the software. Some of

by, in my opinion, a
the funds will be for testing, hiring extra help, and
travelling to conferences, and paying their salary so

lack of innovation in
that they can focus on the project.

email in general and I

A new normal
The reason why Mailpile could be worth paying at-
was starting to feel like

„
tention to is not just because it provides encryption,
though that is a key feature; it’s because Mailpile’s
aim is to create better email overall which, consid-
ering the nature of online communication, should
maybe I should turn
by default include easy to use privacy options that
make encrypting more normative. “With Thunder- this project into more
bird or Outlook, the focus was on creating a pro-
gramme enabling people to read and write email, than just a hobby.”
and organise it into folders, and then they added
some search capabilities and maybe they’d get a
third party extension to do the encryption,” Bjarni
says. “It just really changes things if you do them as
an afterthought. They don’t work as well. So we’re Other unique elements of Mailpile are that it is
Axel Sigurðarson taking a very different approach in that respect.” open source software, which means the code is pub-
Mailpile differs from other webmail providers lic and anyone can contribute to the project. And,
in that although it looks like a normal website (the at the moment, Bjarni thinks that Mailpile won’t
Mailpile’s tech lead, Bjarni Einarsson, was in his apartment giv- interface is akin to familiar Gmail), it’s not. It’s be supplying users with email addresses. Instead

ing an interview the evening of August 7 when donations reached software. “It’s going to be confusing to some peo-
ple because they expect a website to be something
people will be able to use addresses they already
have. “Mailpile will just download your email and
40,000 USD, less than one week into its campaign on crowdfund- that’s somewhere in the cloud or in a data centre
somewhere, but actually it doesn’t need to be,” he
will process it locally instead of it being wherever
it was before,” he explains. Thus, if someone were
ing website, IndieGoGo. A week later, as this issue went to print, says. Software means that Mailpile is installed on to stick with their Gmail account and download it
a personal computer rather than accessed remotely. through Mailpile, they might not get all the security
Mailpile had raised 74,000 USD nearly reaching it's goal of raising “This allows us to leverage [website] technology but benefits, but they would be able to easily encrypt
100,000 USD, and there were still 27 days to go. to do so in a way that’s still on your own machine
where all of the data stays under your control.”
when they felt they needed to. “This may change,”
he said, “but I don’t really want to provide people
What initially sparked Bjarni’s interest in tin- with email addresses, because that would make
kering with email was actually building stronger them dependent on Mailpile in a sense.”
At the OHM Festival 2013 in the Netherlands—a and it sort of progressed from there,” Bjarni says. search engines, so a major feature of Mailpile is a
Burning Man for the tech/intellect inclined—Bjarni “Sometime around January of this year I became sophisticated internal search engine. “There’s no Accessibility
Einarsson, Smári McCarthy, and Brennan Novak really frustrated and really concerned about privacy software out there that will make it easy [for people]
announced the launch of a new Reykjavík-based issues online. There had been rumours about the to generate reports about their email or visualise Mailpile has received exceptional financial support
project called Mailpile, described on its website as stuff that Edward Snowden revealed. These ru- how you’ve been communicating with people in a and praise in a very short amount of time, but Bjarni
“a modern, fast web-mail client with user-friendly mours have been in the tech community for a very fancy way. Because we’re approaching this from recognises that the project needs to be approached
encryption and privacy features. 100% Free and long time. I was getting frustrated by, in my opinion, a different angle, it will be easy to do things like in manageable steps. “The real challenge is when
Open Source software.” They have high hopes that a lack of innovation in email in general and I was that,” Bjarni says. Mailpile would allow people to we start adding features for secure communications,
Mailpile will be a more secure, efficient, likely in- starting to feel like maybe I should turn this project make more directed searches of their email content including encryption and digital signatures. These
triguing, and empowering improvement on widely into more than just a hobby.” and perhaps think differently about the way they are things that even skilled computer professionals
used providers like Gmail and Hotmail. Bjarni was in a hot tub at a Reykjavík pool when communicate. have to do their homework on and study before they
he met Brennan Novak, a young American user Along with privacy and stronger searches, Mail- can get it right, he says.
Innovation in the hot tub interface designer who took an interest in Bjarni’s pile is designed to be fast and responsive, outper- “So we have a very ambitious goal of mak-
then hobby. “He knows how to make things beauti- forming "the cloud" even on slow computers, as the ing this accessible to non-technical people. That’s
“I’ve been working on Mailpile off and on for two ful and easy to understand. And that’s exactly the project’s site states. “I do make some significant something we’re going to figure out in the next few
years. It started as a hobby project, just experiment- skillset I was lacking to build a product that would claims about the performance of Mailpile. It is re- months. A big part of the project is just doing the
ing with building a search engine for email because be useful to people,” Bjarni explains. In addition to ally fast, and this is surprising to people because research, doing some experiments, creating some
I wanted to figure out how to do that. And once I Brennan, developer and activist Smári McCarthy we’ve sort of been trained to believe that things mock-ups, having people try them, and iterating un-
had something that was running, that was working, joined the team to provide insight into online pri- that happen in big data centres far away have more til we have something that’s actually useable.”
I discovered that I just really enjoyed working on it vacy and educating people on how to understand computing power—that shiny data centres must be

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 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 18

Every Thug Needs A Lady

Iceland | War

U.S. Ambassador suggested feminist Afghan war propaganda

by Sam Knight
tainly been quickly reversed after Prime Pentagon, the State Department, and the
Minister Geir Haarde ordered God to CIA haven't been particularly perturbed
Bless Iceland in October 2008 (this a ref- by the treatment of women in Saudi Ara-
erence to the financial collapse, kreppa bia—the oil-gushing U.S. ally home to
scholar neophytes). In November of that fifteen out of nineteen 9/11 hijackers and
year, van Voorst told Washington that a theocracy suspected by former Ameri-
Iceland's “newly established defense can Senators of playing a central role

“
budget will be slashed.” In 2009, after orchestrating the attacks. Nor has U.S.
Ingibjörg stepped down from the min- intervention improved the lot of Iraqi
istry (and then from politics altogether women, who have seen and continue to
after falling ill in September 2008), then
acting Foreign Minister Össur Skar-
phéðinsson informed van Voorst in April
that she “should be happy” (van Voorst's
words) that Icelandic troops weren't
called home immediately after the Left- We should push the
Greens joined the coalition government
just after the New Year.
Icelanders to greatly
And although she was described as step up their support
having an “activist streak,” Ingibjörg and
the Social Democrats hardly protested for police training,
all of the excesses of American Nation-
al Security while in power. In another which may also allow

„
WikiLeaks cable from 2007, van Voorst
wrote that Ingibjörg's foreign ministry
them to blend in ele-
conducted an inquiry into alleged CIA ments relating to the
status of women (a
extraordinary renditions that passed
through Iceland as “an attempt to take
the issue away from the opposition”—“an
exercise in transparency,” in the words of
heartfelt personal con-
one ministry official, with no legal bite. cern of Gisladottir's).
In January 2008, Left-Green leader Ste-
Helgi Finnbogason
ingrímur J. Sigfússon cited a Danish TV
documentary on the issue as evidence that
an independent investigation was needed.
Remember the war in Afghanistan? Of course you do. Not only does it have the distinc- He was rebuffed by Ingibjörg who insist- see their personal security, quality of life
tion of being the longest U.S.-fought war in history (“Vietnam” has finally been defeated! ed the matter had been settled, and that and legal status diminish since the fall of
the documentary detailed Iceland's scru- Saddam Hussein.
U-S-A!), but Iceland has had a role since the start. Three Icelanders are still a part of the tiny of the flights. Either way, the debate Nor does the American military ap-
so-called International Security Assistance Force (ISAF), toiling away alongside their shows that the crisis probably did more in pear particularly concerned about Af-
2008 for Iceland's anti-war activists than ghan women themselves, either. A fa-
freedom-lovin' allies in the Graveyard of Empires. any one politician could do. mously outspoken Afghan woman and
former Parliamentarian named Malalai
Hell, since the 2008 banking collapse, 2008, van Voorst wrote: A May 2008 “scenesetter” van Afghan women Joya said recently that the U.S. and its
Icelanders have even run off to volunteer “We should push the Icelanders to Voorst sent to then Secretary of State NATO allies “were not fighting on be-
for the Norwegian military, citing the greatly step up their support for police Condoleezza Rice a month after the D.C. Whatever the case, Iceland wasn't alone half of women, because they have put
lack of economic opportunity at home training, which may also allow them to trip made no mention of increased Ice- in facing down the American feminist into power the reactionary warlords who
as a reason to take up arms in Pashtuni- blend in elements relating to the status of landic participation in Afghanistan—nor PsyOps tactics. According to a March are sworn enemies of women.”
stan. While Icelanders might no longer women (a heartfelt personal concern of did van Voorst tell Rice that she should 2010 CIA report (also published by Women in Afghanistan don't need
be afforded the chance to plunder British Gisladottir's).” try to persuade her Icelandic counterpart WikiLeaks), American officials wanted to wait for ISAF to withdraw to feel the
savings accounts, they can still be party The advice—which described In- to step up intervention. Ingibjörg then to exploit the plight of Afghan women in coercive grip of homegrown patriarchy.
to other sorts of destruction—through a gibjörg as “a shrewd politician with an presided over even more downsizing in capitals across Western Europe. U.S. backed officialdom is piling on in-
war that has, in many respects, continued activist streak” that “tackled well” as August 2008. In response to a Ministry “Afghan women could serve as ideal grained cultural attitudes grinding Af-
unabated since 1979. Foreign Minister, even though she “came of Foreign Affairs report about a 2004 messengers in humanizing the ISAF ghan women down. According to the Af-
in with expectations of being able to take suicide attack that wounded four Iceland role in combating the Taliban because ghan Interior Ministry's own statistics,
Feminist psyops lengthy vacations in the Nordic tradi- Crisis Response Unit members, she for- of women’s ability to speak personally 600 women were in prison for “moral
tion”—did not lead to any sort of Ice- bade Icelandic peacekeepers in Afghani- and credibly about their experiences un- crimes” in May 2013 – an increase of
But a little-noticed cable published by landic surge, however. Iceland had been stan from carrying weapons, except for der the Taliban, their aspirations for the 50 percent since October 2011. These
WikiLeaks reveals that Iceland's in- winding down its involvement in the “rare circumstances,” and ordered troops future, and their fears of a Taliban vic- egregious violations of law, according
volvement would be even greater if Ice- war before May 2007, when an election to be replaced by “unarmed specialists” tory. Outreach initiatives that create me- to Human Rights Watch, include “be-
landic diplomats were a tad more gull- resulted in a Social Democrat-Indepen- at the next opportunity. The “status of dia opportunities for Afghan women to ing victims of forced marriage, domestic
ible. Internal deliberations show that dence Party coalition government. As women” propaganda tack, if followed by share their stories with French, German, violence, and rape.”
then U.S. Ambassador Carol von Voorst von Voorst noted in the very same cable, the U.S. State Department in actual dis- and other European women could help to And some of these women could have
told her superiors at the State Depart- Ingibjörg's predecessor (former Progres- cussions, didn't move Ingibjörg, it seems. overcome pervasive skepticism among been arrested by men trained by Icelan-
ment to push some pretty manipulative sive Party MP Valgerður Sverrisdóttir) women in Western Europe toward the dic “support for police trainers” too, if
pro-war talking points on then Foreign had “pulled Iceland's mobile liaison “Activist streak” ISAF mission.” Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladóttir had swal-
Minister and Social Democratic Alli- team out of PRT [Provincial Reconstruc- But Icelanders and their continental lowed Carol von Voorst's PR gumdrop.
ance head Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladóttir. tion Team] Chaghcharan” the month be- Even if Ingibjörg had ramped up Ice- counterparts, to their credit, have appar-
Before Ingibjörg embarked on a trip to fore the election, and Ingibjörg could not land's official mission to Afghanistan, ently been able to see through the shame-
Washington for official business in April be persuaded to reverse that decision. any escalation would have almost cer- lessness and the logical fallacies. The

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 Ísbílinn trucks run regularly throughout the country from March to December.
The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 20
Visit their website: www.isbillinn.is for route schedules, driver phone numbers, and what's in stock.

Iceland | Ice cream

This Is How We Chill

Ísbíllinn's extreme commitment to satisfying Iceland's sweet tooth
by Adrienne Blaine

tions of Iceland's roadways. "We weren't The flexibility of the job doesn't im-
too worried about the ice cream, up there pede the company's reliability. "People
in the highlands. And Helgi was fine, he assume that we run according to the

“
wasn't in polar bear territory" Yerzhana weather," says Yerzhana, "but if you run a
says, giggling. business that way in Iceland, you'd never
"The polar bears," she continues, "they get anything done!"
are found more up here" and circles a re-
gion on the map with a red route snaking
through it. "We had a truck tip over there
one time because of the extreme winds."
There are plenty more tales like this
one, breakdowns in the Westfjords many
kilometres from the next village. Icy roads We weren't too
mocking the weak traction of the ice cream
truck's tires. More misinformed GPS sys- worried about
tems. But they are a persistent bunch, and
it's all a part of the job description. the ice cream,
Trading the ship's bell up there in
for the door-bell
the highlands.
And Helgi was
As I enter the office two potential employ-

„
ees are exiting. They've just gone through

fine, he wasn't
an interview with Ásgeir Baldursson, Yer-
zhana's husband and co-owner of Ísbíllinn.

in polar bear
The young girls' inexpressive faces don't
give me any information as to how the in-

territory.
terviews went. Ásgeir follows them out and
introduces himself gleefully. I ask him how
the interviews went and he gives me an
inconclusive mumble. I wonder if I would
Axel Sigurðarson
make the cut, so I ask him what he looks for
in employees.
Co-owner Sigurður G. Jökulsson with the Ísbíllinn fleet.
"You have to be a people person," he
answers. Most of the routes include remote
It is a grey day. My hair is frizzy with the air's thick moisture when I approach the farm houses where transactions occur at the Even though the trucks don't run as fre-
doorstep, sometimes even after having been quently in the wintertime, Ísbíllinn's popu-
open garage at Ísbíllinn. Yerzhana Akhmetzhanova, the company's co-owner, walks invited in for a cup of coffee. "It's nerve- larity remains pretty consistent throughout
from the back to the front to greet me, and then keeps walking, preventing me from wracking at first," adds Siggi, "but you soon
realise that you're not a vacuum salesman,
the year. "Sure, you're like Santa Claus in
the summertime," Yerzhana says, "but ice
escaping to the hollow shelter of the headquarters. At least until she has a cigarette. I and people are actually very happy to see cream tastes good in any weather.”
you." On top of door-to-door service, the I can vouch for that. Siggi offers me an
wait beside a dumpster overflowing with cardboard ice cream boxes while she has her company also updates their website regu- ice cream bar from the truck. Even though
smoke and comments on the amount of garbage lying about. larly to let followers know when they will
be embarking for certain neighbourhoods,
the rain is coming down harder than be-
fore, and my impressively absorbent jean
along with the phone numbers of the driv- jacket is not going to let me forget it, I
We are standing in the parking lot sur- bíllinn has provided for Iceland's ice cream tering some points, supplementing others. ers, in case you'd like to request a detour or a take him up on the offer. "I'll have one
rounded by an army of baby blue Ísbíllinn loving population unceasingly. A map of It is clear by the way they engage with each reserve a box of the best-seller, Hnetu Top- of your specialties," I tell him. "Have you
ice cream trucks—ambitious soldiers of the country that hangs on their office wall other that they understand each other a lit- pur. How's that for customer service? ever had a Tyrkisk Peber?" he asks me,
cream and sugar and happiness. Each one displays a colour-coded net of routes and tle too well, like a cross-country team. Or a "those are quite special." I haven't, so he
is equipped with a ship's bell attached to the schedules. From a six-day trek weaving writer's circle. Groups that only have to tell Serving smiles is props open the back of the truck's cooler,
driver's side window. The bell serves as a through the Westfjords, to a fourteen-day half of a story to elicit a reaction, because fumbles around with a couple of boxes
just my side job
charming alternative to the traditional ice traverse across the North, to a quick four- they were all there for it. Groups united by and hands me one.
cream truck jingle, and a necessary precau- hour pop over to Mollsfellsbær, Ísbíllinn a common interest, and simultaneously set It's a great job for students, and people of At first glance the Tyrkisk Peber is ap-
tion for sanity when the route takes, say, up- has Iceland covered—with one (slightly apart because of that interest. Ísbíllinn's artistic professions, adds Yerzhana. "It's a palling. It's shiny, black, and cold—like
wards of seven days to complete. ironic) exception: Reykjavík. But they're interest: ice cream. very flexible, temporary summer job—you a tiny police baton. Siggi grins with the
working on it. Between the two of them they stack get to see the country and eat ice cream." same threatening innocence of a child
Neither rain, nor snow, Yerzhana's cigarette fizzles down to a story upon story of mishaps and mal- To demonstrate her point, Ásgeir reaches playing a prank, he warns me of a "spicy
soggy stub, finally allowing me to escape functions, tales gathered from nearly two for a book off of the office bookshelf that surprise" that waits in the middle. But the
nor…threat of polar bear
the elements. As we enter the garage, a decades of servicing Iceland. They tell was published by a former employee. Si- only surprise was a pleasant one, as it was
Collectively, this ten-truck fleet has seen man named Sigurður G. Jökulsson—Sig- me how one of their drivers, Helgi, got multaneously Yerzhana opens the 'Ex- actually quite tasty. I can now confidently
every nook and cranny of Iceland. Those gi—emerges from the back with a steam- his nickname, "Helgi Highland," after he treme Chill Festival' line-up on the com- confirm Yerzhana's statement: ice cream
that are reachable by road, anyways. And ing cup of coffee. He jumps headfirst into and his truck were stranded in the eastern puter and points out one of the featured really does taste good in any weather.
occasionally, accidentally, a few that aren't. the conversation, embellishing Yerzhana's highlands due to a GPS system that didn't artists, Modesart. "He worked for us too"
Since the company's inception in 1994, Ís- information with his own anecdotes, coun- take into account the seasonal restric- she confirms.

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 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 22

Five Years AgoHooray! We turned ten this year. For a we thought we'd get a little introspective Grapevine's existence, starting one issue
humble street rag like Grapevine, turning and reprint some choice articles from the ago, with a look back into magical 2003.
ten is a pretty big deal—we barely expect- past that are for some reason significant, This issue is a look at 2008, our sixth
ed to make it to ten issues (and, indeed, all accompanied by commentary and even year of existence when Steinunn Jakobs-
of our contemporaries from the Reykja- updates. Call it a "blast from the past" or dóttir was assistant editor of The Reykja-
vík's street rag market have long since bid "a look into the dark cauldron of time" if vík Grapevine. Read on for some reflec-
farewell... miss u, Undirtónar!). you want to—we call it fun. Thus, for ten tions from Steinunn.
To celebrate our decade of existence, issues, expect a page dedicated to a year of

Remembering 2008
By Steinunn Jakobsdóttir (assistant editor of The Reykjavík Grapevine from 2007-2008)

The year 2008 can be remembered for many things. Iceland’s leading environmentalists. pint of Guinness became a luxury. denial, anger, depression—but eventually, got back
Bobby Fisher died in his Reykjavík apartment, Ice- However, on October 6, all of those events seemed I remember that my professors found our small up and accepted that things wouldn’t, and probably
landic peacekeepers got trapped in a life-threatening to turn irrelevant, and the year 2008 will go down in island highly intriguing and were much more inter- shouldn’t, be the same again. It had been a great party,
carpet-shopping trip on Kabul’s chicken street and history books as the year the Icelandic financial sys- ested in discussing the Icelandic króna than IMF’s but now there was time to clean up the mess. At the
Ólafur F. Magnússon became the capital’s fourth tem came crumbling down and our then prime minis- stronghold in Africa. Suddenly, everyone was an ex- time, I didn’t expect the Grapevine to survive nor did
mayor in only two years following an unbelievable ter Geir H. Haarde asked god to bless the nation. The pert in Icelandic economics and not afraid to express I realise that the credit crunch and the global news
turn of events that led former Grapevine editor Sve- party was over. their opinion. I was proud to tell the teachers about coverage of our situation proved to be a massive boost
inn Birkir Björnsson to describe city politics as “an There is no need to remind you readers of the my fellow countrymen who stood up, and armed with to our tourism industry. Walking down Laugavegur
absurdist play where Machiavelli waits for Godot.” political turmoil that followed. The Grapevine wel- pots and pans, marched down to Austurvöllur square five years later, the city centre has never looked live-
Iceland Airwaves celebrated its tenth anniversary, comed you to “Icelandistan” and tried to grasp what every Saturday to demand change. The birth of this lier and thanks to the Grapevine Appy Hour, beer is
Reykjavík was hit by a record-breaking heat wave the fuck had happened. At this time, I had just moved interesting movement was nicely covered in a story affordable again.
and Björk and Sigur Rós organised and headlined the to Dublin to study and experienced the crisis a bit dif- by Valur Gunnarsson “The Day We Started Fighting Cheers to life in moderation, cheers to our tourists
‘Náttúra’ concert in an attempt to help save Icelandic ferently. Like the rest of the world, I watched from Back.” ‘Búsáhaldabyltingin,’ try to pronounce that, and all their money and cheers to another ten years of
nature. We at the Grapevine joined the fight with our afar as the banks collapsed one after the other, my professor! The Reykjavík Grapevine!
very own Nature-themed issue, co-edited by some of meagre savings turned into pennies overnight and a The nation went through stages of mourning—

THE NUMBER 1 MUSIC STORE

IN EUROPE ACCORDING TO
LONELY PLANET
SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍG 15, 101 REYKJAVÍK AND HARPA CONCERT HALL
 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 24

Hotels,
Motels,
Holiday Inns...
By Parker Yamasaki

Axel Sigurðarson

Watch the tour bus as a caricature of its passengers. It lugs ungracefully up Eiríksgata, heaves over the speed bumps, and
arrives panting against the backside of Hallgrímskirkja. It leans right and spills its camera-clicking innards onto the side-
walk, or into the street, depending on how aware they are of life outside of the viewfinder. As unsightly as the gargan-
tuan busses are, we're happy that they exist—at least to keep the daily commuters on Strætó safe from the REI backpack
swinging visitors with no apparent sense of spatial awareness. Welcome to the dichotomy of tourism. Its positives and
negatives become more and more intertwined with every need that must be fulfilled. Each visitor to Iceland is not just a
self-sustaining entity walking down the street. It's another human to feed, to clothe, to transport, and notably, to shelter.
 STUNNING PHOTOS FROM ICELAND
Brand new handy-sized books to keep the memories alive

Various books on Icelandic culture and nature from some of our finest writers and photographers
Available in book stores all around the country
Uppheimar Publishing | Tel.: +354 511 2450 | uppheimar@uppheimar.is | www.uppheimar.is
 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 26

Enter the hotel industry. With the closure Hotels, “but I will never take it for granted. thing," Arnar says, "but I don’t think it’s a understand that they are caught between a
of such popular concert venues as Sirkus, It will continue to grow if we decide to make good idea to put all of the hotels in dead rock and a hard place. This has been sort of
Nasa and most recently Faktorý to make it grow by continuing to enhance and im- centre downtown at the cost of culture." Ar- an ‘ugly spot’ here and people have always
way for hotels, there is a lot of frustration prove it. It is through massive marketing nar is not the first to point out questionable wanted to fix it up. Of course you can come
floating around 101. efforts that this industry continues to ex- actions of the city regarding recent hotel and fix it up," he says, "but we don't need a
One popular reaction is to start point- pand." approvals. five-storey hotel to do it."
ing—blame the city, blame the hotels, The expansion isn't just physical, it's fis- Icelandic pop star Páll Óskar is a little
blame the tourists themselves. But is col- cal. “Tourism is a vital pillar of the Icelandic less forgiving than Arnar in his reaction
lective frustration ever appeased by blame?
And is acting out against "hotels" in general
any more effective than trying to shut down
the annoying little brother in the backseat
economy. In fact, it is probably what saved
us from misery after the crash," says Reyk-
javík Economics Managing Director Mag-
nús Árni Skúlason. Magnús emphasises
“In the to the city's responsiveness to public
outcries. Páll is among the sceptics who
question whether or not the city has re-
ally done all that it can do in regard to pre-
of the car? So, what is really going on?
Where do we look, where do we point? And
why is this happening?
the benefits of tourism to underdeveloped
areas in the downtown region. He notes the
potential of tourism to rejuvenate areas like
Hverfisgata and upper Laugavegur. “Upper
end, the serving these important public areas. "It's
like it doesn’t matter to the City. If 18,000
people protest the hotel on this very spot,
it doesn’t matter. If 3,000 people show up
PRO-HO(TELS)

On a basic level, it's a story of supply and

demand. Páll Hjaltason, the city chair of
Laugavegur is not in a good state,” Mag-
nús says, “we saw great shops like Atmo, a
concept store for Icelandic designers, that
were not able to survive recently, even on
City sold in protest at Austurvöllur, if almost 300 Ice-
landic musicians protest that Nasa going
under, it doesn’t matter. And even with all
of the fierce articles that have been written
the Environment and Planning Commit-
tee, says it would take an additional 250
new hotel rooms a year to match a steady
3% annual increase in overnight stays in
the main street in the main shopping dis-
trict in Reykjavík.” Tourists will help these
businesses survive the dark winter days by
flooding them with capital during the sum-
the prop- in the media, it doesn’t matter. That to me
is what's most devastating, that all of these
voices will be swept aside. Hotel it will be."
Advocates against the closure of music
hotels. In the past year, Iceland has wit-
nessed a 15% increase. As of this year,
tourism has become the second largest
industry in Iceland, surpassed only by
mer, Magnús argues.

HEALTHY GROWTH erty in its venues such as Nasa worry that the city is
taking for granted the culture that draws the
tourists here in the first place. According to
an April 2013 report by the Icelandic Tourist
fishing. And according to a study by Arion
bank, the number of incoming tourists is
expected to increase threefold between
now and 2015, threefold from the 727,000
On August 9, the city released its newly up-
dated Reykjavík Municipal Plan, which calls
for a concentration of hotel development in
the above mentioned Hlemmur area. The
entirety, Board, 40% of visitors cited "culture and/or
history" as the most influential reason for
their visit to Iceland. "That forty percent
comes here for the musicians," Páll Óskar
visitors predicted to enter the country this
year. Compare that to the mere 383,000 re-
ported visitors less than a decade ago, in
2005, and it is clear that Iceland has to do
plan is a total revision of the former gov-
ernment’s Municipal Plan for 2001–2024,
shifting the focus from expanding outward
into unused peripheral areas around Reyk-
paving the elaborates, "not the movies, not the writers,
they come for the music. Isn't it peculiar to
close down concert venues like Nasa and
Faktorý to make room for a hotel for those
some major adapting. And quickly.
So how did this happen? In the years
leading up to the financial crash in 2008,
tourism accounted for around 4.4–4.7% of
javík to developing within the city’s current
limits. In fact, it is the first master plan for
the city that does not propose new subur-
ban areas at the outskirts of the city and if
way for very same tourists to stay in?"
One of the possible measures within the
hands of government is to convince proper-
ty owners to commit pieces of their land to
Iceland’s total GDP. Iceland was considered
a luxury travel destination. High costs and
a relatively poor exchange rate deterred
most who longed to visit Iceland—Sigur
it is carried out, more than 90% of all new
residential units until 2030 will be built in
the current urban centre.
The benefit of this approach, Páll Hjalta-
Icelandair the National Heritage Homes Association,
as was the case with the Nasa building and
the yellow house where Café Stofan now
sits. But although the structures will be
Rós’s tour-footage in ‘Heima’ would have
to do. In 2008, when the banks went sliding
down the slippery slope of economic col-
lapse, they brought the value of the krona
son says, is that it allows the city to focus
on maintaining infrastructure that already
exists within its municipalities rather than
on the construction of new areas to main-
to plop a preserved, the culture that occupies them
today and in the past cannot .

TARGETING THE ARTS

tumbling down with them. By September
2008, the króna had experienced a devas-
tating depreciation by nearly 80%, and not
quietly. With exchange rates now heav-
tain. It also cuts down on traffic, as resi-
dents and services alike will be more cen-
trally located.
"It is very easy to pick on and see the neg-
hotel on It would be naive of the economist, the
builder, or the city planner, to assume that
the entire realm of human experience that
ily favouring incoming foreign currency,
the tourism industry began its voracious
expansion. A year later, by 2009, tourism
accounted for almost 6% of Iceland’s total
ative side of change. People tend to do this
without necessarily looking at what they
are trying to preserve,” Hildur Ómarsdóttir,
the director of sales and marketing for Ice-
the pris- these spaces like Nasa and Heart Park have
offered can be boiled down to monetary
units. Because one private owner made a
payment to another private owner, they now
GDP. landair Hotels. says in regard to Icelandair’s
approved plans to build a 142-room hotel in
the block containing beloved cultural gems tine lot.” control not only the physical land in ques-
tion, but also everything that the land cur-
rently contains. Heart Park and Nasa serve

“‘40% of
such as the Heart Park and Faktorý. "To only as two outspoken representatives of
build up the culture we must take what we a greater collective of artists and creative
have and enhance it," she says. "I don't see Over the past decade, the Heart Park industries that have been displaced by the
how we can preserve if we don't invest in property has changed hands from pri- "adaptation" of the city.

tourists
the infrastructure to maintain, further de- vate groups, to banks, to individuals. Each It is the nomadic characteristic of the
velop, enhance, and improve." unique owner had a unique agenda. Before arts and music scenes that makes them re-
The future Icelandair Hotel will refurbish the 2007 economic crash, proposals to turn silient, and at the same time renders them
existing structures to house its guests— the beloved garden into a seven-storey vulnerable. "I think the attitude toward mu-

say that
maintaining, at the least, an aesthetic of shopping mall in the heart of downtown sicians in Iceland has generally been 'do-
old-town charm. "I think it's a beautiful had been set into motion. When the crash it-yourself, take care of your own shit,'"
thing that we can open up to cultures from came in 2007, the massive project could no Páll Óskar reflects. "The same discussion
all over the world," Hildur says, "we should longer be properly funded, and the prop- comes up again and again—'why don't you

they come
welcome the fact the people want to come erty itself was turned over to the hands of get a job'—indicating that being an artist is
here, that the streets can be more colourful, Landsbanki bank. Last year, the bank decid- not a job. As Iceland was originally a fish-
and the culture more rich." ed that it was done sitting on the property; er's and a farmer's society, anything that
That said, there is a dominating concern it was time to cash out. was not fishing or farming was not consid-

here for
over the more literal loss of colour, with the With the skeletons of overly-ambitious ered a job. So the thinking has deep roots."
closure of vibrant cultural hubs like Heart development projects like the office tow- Einar Örn, the current chair for the De-
Park and Faktorý. Granted, destruction is ers at Borgatún looming over Reykjavík, partment of Culture and Tourism of the Best
not an evil in itself. More often than not, the newly elected Best Party was hesitant Party, doesn’t agree. "I'm not worried about

the cul-
destruction breeds creation. Like a flower to hand the large chunk of property over to the health of the Icelandic music scene,"
garden, one has to uproot the old grass and any single investor. So it seemed, anyway. says Einar, who is also a founding member
weeds, dig the garden, and turn the soil They announced that the prime property of The Sugarcubes and one half of the ex-
before the new seeds can be planted. But would be divided up amongst a number of perimental electronic duo Ghostigital. "Mu-

ture,’ Páll
productivity takes space, and it takes time. individual investors to prevent the develop- sicians are a historically resilient, nomadic
The problem with the hotel industry is that ment of creating Borgatún-like creatures in lot. Icelandic music will not be crushed by
it digs up places with established creative the central city. The City even ran an ad in the hotel industry. Nasa has been closed for
foundations and replaces them with an in- the local paper with the property divided, a year and a half, Sirkus for even longer, but

says”
dustry based on flux, on temporary inhabit- encouraging investors to start laying their the scene is just as healthy as ever. There
ants. Without a chance to establish itself, claims. will always be somewhere to play."
the creative capacity of the space stag- When the property was in fact turned "To tie inspiration to a certain place is
nates. It's like somebody is digging a hole over, however, the dispersal effort was qui- wrong," Einar elaborates, "it's the people,
for fresh new crop of flo wers to bloom, and etly abandoned. In the end, the City sold the not the buildings, that do the creating.
then filling it with cement. property in its entirety, paving the way for Spaces are to be reused. Find something
Since then it has only continued to grow Icelandair to plop a hotel on the pristine lot. else," he says, encouraging the artists dis-
at unprecedented rates. Between 2010 and BEYOND THE BOARD ROOM When that transaction was announced, Ar- placed by the recent closure of Faktorý to
2011, the number of international visitors to nar recalls feeling surprised that, well, no- be creative. “Be what you claim everybody
Iceland jumped from 488,600 to 565,600, a Arnar Fells Gunnarsson is one third of the body seemed surprised. is saying that we are killing,” he says. “Take
16.6% increase. The following year that in- managing team at Faktorý, a staple of Ice- on the devil, make it better."
creased again, by 18.9%, with 2012 seeing a landic music venues that was recently shut WHO DO YOU WORK FOR In the meantime, artists around Reykja-
record 672,000 international visitors. down because of its location on the Heart vík are not standing around.
In order for growth of this magnitude Park property. He emphasises that his com- When it comes to private ownership of Creative work continues within the con-
to occur, the hotel industry and tourism in plaints are not directed against the building publicly used lands, the city can only do so fines of 101 Reykjavík, as buildings are emp-
general had to be responsive. “Tourism will of hotels, but at the way the city is going much within their own limits. "I am a bit sur- tied in slow anticipation of being turned
continue to grow,” says Hildur Ómarsdót- about doing it. "I’m not against changing prised to see this development approved by into hotels. Bands like Reykjavík!, Retro
tir, the director of marketing for Icelandair and building up of a city; that is a normal the current government", Arnar says, "but I Stefson, FM Belfast, Borko, Agent Fresco,
27 The new Reykjavík Municipal Plan will be on display at city hall as well as available online at adalskipulag.is Issue 12 — 2013 The Reykjavík Grapevine
until September 20, for those who would like to familiarise themselves with the details and offer feedback.

and Ólöf Arnalds have seized the uncer- in here downtown and wiping us out." musicians—and it's so weird to think finally of such venues and cultural landmarks are
tainty in city planning and of construction "I'm really going to miss it," Arnar says when we got the house just as we wanted, assets to the tourism industry, and more
as an opportunity to run artist collectives, regretfully from behind the bar of Faktorý finally when it is ready, we have to leave it." importantly, are valuable in themselves.
hold rehearsal spaces, and even throw im- on one of its final days. "These three years Einar may be right that it would be a mis- But we should keep in mind the ghosts of
promptu concerts while the structures sit in have been unbelievable. It’s been a really take to tie creativity to a single, physical optimistic development that now linger, un-
limbo. crazy ride, We got to know so many good space, but one would be just as mistaken inhabited and unsightly on the outskirts of
people—the bands, the staff, everybody." to disregard the work of the individuals that Reykjavík, those construction projects that
RUNNING ON EMPTY Unfortunately, because of approval of the goes into making these spaces available. were never occupied, or never completed in
hotel plans, the Faktorý dynamic as we Not to mention, there is a value in having the first place.
Regardless, whether or not the health of know it becomes a thing of the past. Arnar a space to collectivise and thus branch out- Eager optimism in any industry is like
a scene is dependent on the venues that admits he does not plan on continuing Fak- ward from into other creative endeavours. a disease with late blooming symptoms.
house it, the individuals that operate those torý without the Faktorý house. "This house In the end, it’s not a matter of evil hotels You only recognise it after it is too late to
venues, the bands who grow mutually with is just totally perfect for it. I would never versus poor, helpless artists. It’s a matter do anything about it. In order to thrive, the
the venues, and the people that generate move Faktorý to a lesser house because of supply and demand, and the responsive City of Reykjavík must proceed with cau-
the scene should not be disregarded as just people would just constantly compare the cry for explicit long-term, contextual plan- tion, think bigger-picture while still credit-
another cohesive and resilient entity. "Of two," he explains. "It was a shithole when ning. Musical and youth cultures are his- ing the individual—think contextually—and
course he [Einar] is right, nothing lasts for- we got it and we have been fixing it for torically nomadic. It's part of what makes learns to evaluate things in non-monetary
ever," Arnar agrees, "places come and go, three years—installing the toilets, expand- the scene, the scene. That said, we cannot measurements.
but that does not justify the hotels coming ing the stage, opening up the side room for take its existence for granted. The presence

Black Pearl
Tryggvagötu 18a
Hotel by Höfða-
Hotel by Harpa Hotel by Hljóma- torg
4×120 m² Suites lindarreitur
6×75 m² Suites 250 Rooms
2000 m² 342 Rooms
30.000 m² 142 Rooms 17.000 m²
6000 m²
Opened July 15 Opens 2016 Opens 2015
Opens 2015

Types of accommodation:

Hotel
Guesthouse
Hostel

Bed & Breakfast

Apartments

Map appears in the new Reykjavík Municipal Plan.

Landsímareitur
Ingólfstorg Íslandsbankareitur Reykjavík Lights
(NASA plot) Lækjargata 12 Hotel
According to the city's According to the city's 105 Rooms
Master Plan proposal Master Plan proposal for 4.000 m²
for 2010-2030, develop- 210-2030, developments
ments here will include here will include a hotel. Opened June 1
a hotel.
 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 Music 28

GusGus Bid Farewell

To Faktorý

Hörður Sveinsson

by Davíð Roach Gunnarsson

11
AUGUST
Faktorý http://gusgus.com
CROENVCIEERWT
CONCERT

The Sunday night in question was for “Arabian Horse,” dressed in a out. Their sound palette is not very
special and historical for few differ- swanky white suit and all amped up. big: mainly squelchy bass, white
ent reasons. It was GusGus’ first con- Nobody holds a long note quite like noise hiss, bright synth tones and
cert at Faktorý and it was GusGus’ Daníel Ágúst, and he often does so drum fills, but they put it to maxi-
last concert at Faktorý. It was Sunday with his eyes closed and so much mum effect, pushing each element to
night and it was the last night Faktorý feeling that you can see the vein in a breaking point in glorious build-ups
would be open to the public. his forehead pulsating. It took a bit of and inevitable explosions to huge
There is a lot of history in the low- time for the crowd to get shaking, but cheers from the crowd. GusGus also
ceilinged concert venue on the upper by the forth song, “Deep Inside,” the brought with them their own sound
floor of Faktorý. It has hosted thou- crowd started moving and the room and lighting system, turning the rath-
sands of concerts in the more than ten heated up like a sauna. I threw my er lo-fi venue into a sonic and visual
years that it has operated as a live mu- sweater under the nearest table and hi-fi. The band’s lighting guy plays
sic venue, in some form or the other. my notebook out the metaphorical an integral part in the set, sometimes
Before it was called Faktorý, the club window. piling on streams of strobe lights and
was called Grand Rokk, a place where At some point it was as if the audi- turning the band members into mov-
many bands who are now among the ence had turned into a blobby mass, ing silhouettes.
most popular in the country—bands one living, breathing, but mostly By the time the groove of 2007
like Hjálmar and Retro Stefson—took sweating organism that pulsated in hit “Moss” began wafting from the
their first steps towards the limelight. euphoric unity. It’s a vibe that certain- speakers everybody was high on
A lot of memories have been made ly couldn’t be replicated in a larger, love, and I banged my head so hard
there, a lot of good times celebrated. fancier venue. Like Harpa. that I probably scattered sweat from
my hair over half a dozen people.
Anxiety Crescendo Daníel Ágúst performed the song
with vigour and assurance, turning to
The crowd this evening was anxious GusGus used the opportunity to play Biggi Veira and President Bongo and
and the excitement in the air was a few new songs that all sounded waving his hands at them like he was
palpable before the band took stage. fresh, but one of them stood out. I’ve conducting an electronic orchestra.
Suddenly, all of the lights were turned heard it once before, six months ago, Then it was encore time and after a
off, so you couldn’t see the stage. at their Sónar Festival concert, but it few minutes they came back, and
Shadowy figures appeared behind still resonated with me and gives off Biggi Veira thanked the crowd and the
an array of music making machines the impression that it will probably be venue and condemned Reykjavík City
and you could hear the lush strings the first single for GusGus’ upcoming Council for its lack of balls in stand-
and staccato synth notes of “Within album. It’s immensely catchy with ing up to developers and protecting
You,” the biggest hit from GusGus’ beautiful vocal harmonizing by the cultural institutions like Faktorý and
2011 album ‘Arabian Horse.’ Then two singers and a chorus steeped in Nasa. They performed instrumental
lights went on and Högni crept onto dance music/DJ culture nostalgia: “Selfoss” before adding the last song
the stage and started pouring his guts “Do you remember the days/When of the evening, “Add This Song,”
out through the microphone. The de- we started to crossfade.” where everything was turned up to
livery was intense, and his soulful Though most GusGus songs rely eleven and your senses were soaked
singing often hovered just behind or heavily on melody and pop hooks, in overwhelming joy.
ahead of the beat, which just added dance music is all about the craft
to the charm. of crescendos, and Biggi Veira and
Daníel Ágúst joined him on stage President Bongo know that inside

Faktorý’s Final Moments

After the concert I was a sweaty mess in dire need of give up their favourite party spot to greedy developers
a shower, but since it was Faktorý’s last night I stuck this easily.
around to see what would happen, cooling myself down KGB pumped his eclectic party mix and the public
outside the bar. sang along, poured beer into and onto their faces, and
The cops came soon enough, as the legal closing started smoking cigarettes inside; the overall mood was
time for bars in this fair city of ours is 1AM on Sundays. a strange mix of sorrow and celebration. The only thing
After giving a warning, the 5-0 left and then the music that could possible stop this party was state-sponsored
was put back on while Faktorý’s resident DJ, KGB, ran force, which arrived in the form of ten policemen around
to his apartment to get his equipment. Soon, the party 3 AM, one of whom ran into the DJ booth to prevent
back in full motion. another song from being played.
The place was crammed with people and every table The lights came on, and Faktorý was finished, but at
and chair was used as a dancing platform—you could least it went out with style and a modicum of resistance.
sense that these young wildlings were not willing to It lives on in our collective cultural consciousness.
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 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 Music 30

only All The Rage

€8
Grísalappalísa’s album release concert at Faktorý
by Adrienne Blaine

CCROOENNVCCIEEERRWTT

to the
airport

LOW COST
BUSLINE Magnús Andersen

Emerging upstairs at Faktorý for the Grísalappalísa album release concert

was like entering a man cave: hazy lights, musky smells and low growls
issued from the front of the room. The scene was overwhelmingly male.

BOOK NOW AT KEXPRESS.IS

31
JULY
Faktorý http://grisalappalisa.bandcamp.com

The lack of females was surprising since vocalists

Gunnar Ragnarsson and Baldur Baldursson are

TIMETABLE
regulation Icelandic hotties. But don’t let the sweet-
faced baby photo on the cover of Grísalappalísa’s
‘ALI’ album fool you; this is angry music.
As the sound began to swell, I realised that just
as females often berate males to share their feel-
ings but turn heel as soon as they unleash their
from Reykjavik City to Keflavik Airport
inner demons, there are few women who toler-
or Keflavik Airport to Reykjavik City. ate angsty discordant shouting about some chick
named Lísa. Luckily for the all-male band, a few fe-
from harpa REYKJAVIK KEFLAVIK AT AIRPORT male attendees were clearly willing to sooth their
Reykjavík city CAMPSITE Town/hotels Terminal building masculine woes.
04:30 04:40 05:25 05:40 The primal shouts and percussion started raging
13:30 13:40 14:25 14:40 and a wave of caveman energy surged through the
20:30 20:40 21:25 21:40 crowd, polished by the ‘80s style backing featuring In between jumping up and down and sneering
a nonchalant saxophone. Young men pulsed to the on stage, Gunnar would enter the crowd, which
from AIRPORT KEFLAVIK REYKJAVIK at harpa beat, as if it were their lifeblood.
KEXPRESS BUS TERMINAL Town/hotels CAMPSITE Reykjavík city rush to meet him. His style as a front man was more
Even to a non-native speaker it was obvious jovially insane than Baldur, who brooded darkly in
07:00 07:15 08:00 08:10
12:00 12:15 13:00 13:10 the Icelandic lyrics spoke to these men on a deep the background. The two represent a nuanced yin
17:00 17:15 18:00 18:10 emotional level or at least a deeply drunken one. and yang of apathy and conviction reflected in the
Chants of “Grísa! Lappa! Lísa!” rose up periodically music.
and whipped the crowd into a testosterone-fuelled
frenzy.
At one point a man stuck his hand into the speak-
ers in an attempt to connect with the music quite “When he wasn’t sloshing his
literally. He wore a pimp style fur coat and a fedora.
DIAGRAM When he wasn’t sloshing his gin and tonics over his gin and tonics over his neigh-
TRAVELLING WITH KEXPRESS neighbours he held up a burning joint to the band bours he held up a burning
like a ritualistic offering.
DEPART A bare-chested man held his torn shirt in his joint to the band like a ritual-
KEXPRESS
BUS TERMINAL hands and thrashed to the music, while Gunnar and
istic offering.”
500 m walk

Baldur looked crisp in contrasting black and white

ensembles: white tuxedo shirt and skinny jeans ver-
IT K

JA a
O IK

arrive
E
LS

sus black sparkles and suspenders. Grísalappalísa

C IK
PS VI

K rp

Y
/H AV
TE

M A

V
IT
A YKJ

R ha

Keflavik
W FL

terminal consists of effortlessly stylish men, emanating

E

EY

The songs blended well from one to the next and

TO KE

R
N

equal parts rage and charisma. when I wasn’t edging away from the mini-mosh pit
or the half-hearted crowd surfers, it was easy to
embrace the orchestrated chaos. The concert end-
ed with a defiant feedback loop that lost its effect
when the band obligingly returned to the stage for a
final bow at the crowd’s behest.
Although I could not personally reap the group
therapy rewards of affirming my own masculine cri-
sis, the Grísalappalísa experience is one I will not
soon forget. Playfully transgressive and aggressive,
Grísalappalísa live is all the rage.

kexpress.is ı info@kexpress.is ı tEL. 823-0099

31 Music

m R e vi
u

ew
Alb

s
kimono are taking their time. It
has the feeling of a warm Sunday
evening spent outside with the equip-
ment playing in the open air, no one
around, the only audience a lower-
ing sun and some birds. Everything
barely ebbs and flows in the energy
level department. It's not until over
A Gourmet Experience
five minutes in that the drums change - Steaks and Style at Argentina Steakhouse
rhythm ever so subtly that you don't
kimono notice it at first.
Halfway into 'Aquarium', there's
Aquarium EP a change in mood and energy, as the Barónsstíg 11 - 101 Reykjavík
2013 drum style changes and the guitar Tel: 551 9555
take on a more direct approach. It’s
www.kimono.is argentina.is
still fragile in its structure, but we’re
seeing formations of simple riffs and
A tease of a song note lines appear for the first time.
As we approach the last act of
the track, things start taking on what
Normally I wouldn't take part in what we would call the “classic” kimono
they call in the trade an InstaReview, sound. Heavy tom-action coupled
where you write a review based on with guitar harmonics and gentle riff-
a single listen of an album or song. ing. But despite the raising of energy
Ideas and aesthetic judgments on a levels, as we reach the end of the
record can vary wildly after repeated song kimono refrain from going into
listening. Songs tend to open up and climax mode, with everything going
reveal their hidden treasures to those hell for leather. Rather, they sustain
who persevere and exhibit patience. the song ‘til it feels like it's going to
Or the record can turn out to be a burst, before gently bringing every-
steaming pile of cack and you curse thing back down to calm peace, fin-
the stars for putting yourself through ish. Fade out. There's no manly rock
that torture payoff or release of tension in the old-
With this in mind, I'm going to play fashioned sense. Tantric prog rock, in
'Aquarium,' the latest release from other words.
kimono for the first time and type On initial listening, 'Aquarium,' is
down my immediate thoughts as it definitely a tease of a song. Its come
plays. hither style brings you in and builds
A single track spanning 20-min- up expectations, but doesn't let you
utes, ‘Aquarium’ starts off with a have what you want. Instead it dic-
relaxed, simple metronomic rhythm tates your level of aural enjoyment on
MADE IN ICELAND www.jswatch.com
of rimshot and ride cymbal. The gui- its own terms, preferring not to waste
With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master
tars of Gylfi and Alison barely punc- its life-force on someone who might Watchmaker ensures that we take our waterproofing rather seriously.
ture the air as the arpeggio sounds not appreciate it. Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman,
and notes they gently pluck wash and Some people would pay good inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.
fold over each other. money for a relationship like that.
- Bob Cluness

It’s A Celebration!
By Óli Dóri and Davíð Roach Gunnarsson

Every once in a while we like to in- Atlantic. So they will be throwing a

dulge in a bit of shameless self-pro- goodbye concert on August 17 at
motion and we are doing so now for Gamli Gaukurinn. Supporting them
a very good reason, so bear with us. is a roster of bands with at least one
On July 21 last year, we launched thing in common: Bjór, Babies and
straum.is, on which we have since Bárujárn. Yes, they all start with the
published 400 stories documenting letter “B.” Given the b-theme, peo-
the music scene and hopefully help- ple whose name start with a “B” will
ing people discover a new favourite get a discount on the entrance fee,
band or two. This summer, the site but the rest of the alphabet should
branched out into the English lan- certainly show up as well.
guage column that you’re reading Finally, you should note that
right now in this fine publication and Markús & The Diversion Session
so we would like you, dear reader, released a new EP in Lucky Records
to come to our first birthday party. on August 15 and the first single
It’ll be held at Harlem on August from it, “Decent Times,” is way
22, when we turn exactly 1 year, 1 decent. Reminiscent of Pavement,
month, and 1 day old. Some of our with some hazy guitar strumming
favourite local artists will be playing and Markús’ voice floating effort-
and yours truly will be DJing. The lessly atop in a style cross between
party starts at 21:00 on that Thurs- Stephen Malkmus and Beck in his
day and there will be some free beer quieter moments, it’s catchy ‘90s lo-
for those who show up early. So join fi slacker rock at its best. And we are
us in a celebration of music and life! immensely digging the post-chorus
Last year also marked the birth mini keyboard solos courtesy of
of Iceland’s only contemporary Steini Teaque (of Moses Hightower
pure disco band, Boogie Trouble. fame). If we ever get some sun in the
The band that’s prompted lots of final stretch of summer, this would
ass shaking at their concerts this be the perfect song to loaf around to
year are now going on a hiatus be- in a public park.
cause some of their members are
seeking higher education across the

Straum.is has been active

since last summer, with writers
Óli Dóri and Davíð Roach docu-
menting the local music scene
and helping people discover
the best new music. It is associ-
ated with the radio show Strau-
mur on X977, which airs every
Monday evening at 23:00.
 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 Learn more about these residencies at www.resartis.org Art 32

Come For The Glaciers,

Stay For The Video Art
Artist residencies are springing up all over Iceland, and more international artists are visiting
each year. Jacqueline Breen finds out what they're finger-painting…
Words and photos by Jacqueline Breen

popularity is growing, and informal artist-run revenue is significant, and growing. The small
initiatives can pop up quite quickly. Kristjana has scale's easy to see: “Well, the artists all buy plane
worked at Reykjavík's SIM and is an artist her- tickets!" says Kristveig Halldórsdóttir, who, along
self, so she knows her way around a paintbrush. with Alda Sigurðardóttir, runs the Gullkistan resi-
These days she has her own studio in SIM, just dency in Laugarvatn. The bigger picture is harder
one floor below the foreigners. to quantify, but the trickle-down effect is obvi-
“SIM is just one big apartment downtown,” ous: more activity means more people buying
Kristjana says, “and the house is packed.” Ice- more things across Iceland. Kristjana from Visit
land's oldest residency, SIM opened in 2002 with Iceland says that almost 40% of international
just one resident. Today it welcomes thirteen visitors cite art and culture as their key reason for
international artists each month. The residents coming.
live on the fourth floor, and there are 44 studios
below for both international and local artists. In Selling it to the world
this tiny glittery galaxy of creativity, and an ideal
place for local and international artists to hang It's a funny old world, economically. Art and cul-
out and talk shop. “It can be really nice to go up- ture normally struggle in tough financial times,
stairs and just talk to the residency artists,” Krist- so I was surprised to find that many of the resi-
jana tells me. “They're very welcoming, there's dencies opened their doors after 2008. These art-
no door—you just go upstairs and say hi.” ists just want to tell me about the bright side of
This, of course, was all part of the plan—SIM 2008. "During the crisis the krona fell 50%, and
was designed to create dialogue. “It's better that meant it was easier for foreigners to come,"
today, but Iceland used to be quite isolated,” says Kristveig from Gullkistan. Kristjana also
Kristjana says. Founders Ingibjörg Gunnlaugs- sees a silver lining painted around the economic
dóttir and Áslaug Thorlacius conceptualised the cloud, and says the crisis reenergised Icelandic
residency as an outstretched hand to the outside creativity. “Before the crisis people were too
world. “It was a huge asset for artists and also busy, and time was money,” she tells me, “and
society to get foreign artists to come to Iceland now all of a sudden artists had an opportunity to
and learn from each other,” Kristjana continues. do things they couldn't do before. The creative
Most people in Skagaströnd fish. There are some marine biologists, some The residency holds artist talks at the beginning industry has actually blossomed after the crisis.”
of each month and exhibitions at the end, and All this might be old news to the average
others working the gas station-slash-burger joint and two friendly women
Kristjana says local artists and local everythings Icelander. Many are familiar with the residen-
in the post office. And, for now, there is one video and performance artist turn up interested and supportive. cies because they themselves often wind up
in the frames. A resident artist in Skagaströnd
orchestrating an international dance lesson across the World Wide Web.
Well, duh…Iceland's appeal recently directed an interactive theatre piece
staged by the townspeople, and local children
Most people in Skagaströnd fish. There are some drifting in from Australia, America, India and Ask anyone why they chose to come to Iceland can now make a mean kite thanks to a residency
marine biologists, some others working the everywhere else. The two biggest residencies and they're likely to point at anything, in any di- workshop. In fact, Emily's worried her new neigh-
gas station-slash-burger joint and two friendly are SIM, in Reykjavík, and Nes, in Skagaströnd, rection, and say “well, duh.” Ask the artistic resi- bours are already arted out. “I've got to ask some
women in the post office. And, for now, there is and there are smaller ones scattered all over the dents and they'll do the same, but went into a bit of them to be in my piece,” she tells me. “I'm wor-
one video and performance artist orchestrating place. more detail for us. The dramatic landscape made ried they're all just thinking 'oh, another bloody
an international dance lesson across the World The idea is to offer living and working space everyone’s list, and totally seduced British fine artist.'"
Wide Web. for artists to meet new people, form new ideas artist Emma Stibbon. “The preoccupying theme For now the residency coordinators are brain-
Emily O'Connor recently landed in Skagas- and produce all kinds of work. Residencies usu- to my work is landscape in transition,” Emma storming ways to work better together, and there
trönd to undergo a one-month artistic residency. ally last between one and six months, and al- says, and here she has plenty of volcanoes, gla- are various plans for expansion. Kristveig and
Stepping off the little bus on Iceland's windy though most artists pay a fee, some receive ciers and transatlantic rifts to keep her canvases Alda are working to secure Gullkistan in a per-
north-west coast, the 26-year-old Australian grants to cover costs. full of dramatic black-and-white sketches. manent home in an old school building, and the
looked around and thought: ‘Wow. Ok.’ Some residencies request finished art works, Emily O'Connor liked the island's isolation. Nordanbal crew at Hrísey is hosting artists cel-
"I'm just walking along the street laughing all and encourage artists to contribute by hosting “I didn't want it to be another Sydney project,” ebrating Akureyri's 150th anniversary this year.
the time because it’s so good," she says of her open days or workshops. Others simply offer she says of her dance piece. She could feasibly The residencies' profile is on the rise politically
new home. Skagaströnd is a coastal fishing and space and time to think and create. The bigger create the same work back home in Australia, but as well. Kristjana's position at Visit Iceland was
trade port, and the artistic residents have nestled residencies are great for collaboration while wanted to expand her horizons, artistically and only created earlier this year, which suggests Ice-
in to an old fishing plant. On her first day Emily smaller ones, like Herhúsið in Siglufjörður (which geographically. And, of course, residencies help land's image-makers see some real potential in
charged up the nearest mountain and stared out hosts just one isolated artist at a time), are better ease the Icelandic strain on the wallet. Artists are this whole 'art' thing.
at a moody, changeable ocean. "I've never had for quiet contemplation. rarely rolling in króna, and residencies make af- And they say creativity is contagious. Ska-
such a physical and emotional reaction to a place fordable what might be otherwise impossible. “It gaströnd's mayor recently took his kids along
as I do here," Emily says, grinning and shaking Creating dialogue really gives artists a great opportunity to be here to Nes for that kite-making workshop, and said
her head. "I can't explain it. The landscape just on a budget,” says Emma Stibbon. Like many the residencies were inspiring his neighbours to
does something to you." “We have a boom in residencies right now,” says travellers she fell hard for Iceland on her first trip, embrace creativity. Who knows—it might not be
Kristjana Rós Guðjohnsen, who works at Visit but recognised that love don't come for free. A too long before all those Skagaströnd fishermen
The residency run-down Iceland. Within that marketing machine, Kristja- one-month residency at Listhús in Ólafsfjördur start whipping up video art in their spare time.
na works to promote art and culture. She reckons was, for Emma, financially within reach.
Roughly three hundred artistic types like Emily there are roughly 11 residencies running at pres- And it seems the residencies are good for Ice-
land in Iceland each year to undergo residencies, ent, but says that the number fluctuates—their land's wallet as well; their contribution to tourism

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 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 Literature 34

Why I Wrote ‘Tales Of Iceland’

by Stephen Markley

When I picked up my first copy of

the Reykjavik Grapevine while on
a tour of Iceland, I had this stag-
gering, overwhelming thought
that went something like: "Quit
your job, move to Iceland, never
look back, and write for this won-
derful rag full-time." So taken was
I with the country of Iceland in all
its beauty, friendliness, charm, and ceaseless winking wit, that through-
out my trip I had this unformed urge to just move there and see what
happened.
Alas, I had bills and friends and a career back in the States, so instead
I wrote a travelogue called ‘Tales of Iceland or Running with the Huldufólk
in the Permanent Daylight,’ which juxtaposed a detailed account of my
adventures (and misadventures) with my friends Trin and Bojo with all
the great stories we heard during our travels. This included but is not lim-
ited to: meeting a raging drunk Kiefer Sutherland, interviewing Jón Gnarr,
hiking glaciers, drinking, women, drinking, socio-political and economic
commentary on the island nation, hidden people tours, and drinking. Not
knowing what I'd write or how I'd even begin, I ended up with a document
that simply proved to myself what a potentially life-shaping experience
it can be to travel to a place you never before could conceive of in your
imagination.
Since then, Trin and I have teamed up to turn the ‘Tales of...’ brand
into a series. Right now, we're in Quito, Ecuador, gathering interviews
and experience in one of South America's most interesting and often
overlooked countries. Our ambitions for these books are simple: we want
them to be entertaining as hell, riotously funny, occasionally offensive,
dark, hopeful, dreamlike, challenging, and a quick way to inspire people
to get out and travel. Even if it doesn't inspire them to travel, maybe it will
inspire them to see the world in a different way.
As I write early on in ‘Tales of Iceland,’ these books are not intended
as travel guides. Travel guides
and travel gurus are virtually ev-
erywhere, overflowing bookstore
shelves (or Amazon servers, I
guess). What we're trying to get at
is the peculiar, hilarious, unyield-
ingly strange and wonderful un-
derbelly of modern travel, warts
and all.
Of course this means acknowl-
edging that we may be full of shit
and as soon as a big corporate
publisher comes along and of-
fers us 3,000 USD and a lifetime
supply of skyr in exchange for the
trademark we will sell out faster
than an Icelandic banker (boom!).
But for now these are books com-
ing straight out of my brain, glee-
fully profane and meant for raw
consumption. Hopefully, we will
soon add other writers to the mix. Hopefully, we will soon sell many more
books. Hopefully, we will soon be placed on the watch list of autocratic re-
gimes from Russia to Venezuela because we really love free expression—
it helps you talk about politics, history, justice, environmental rights, and
penis jokes.
The Grapevine was kind enough to include an excerpt from Tales of
Iceland, which will give you an idea of just what exactly this book about Illustration: Sigga Rún
Iceland is all about.

Chapter 1 edge everyone retains about Iceland: thighs drilled full of holes and their To understand my friend Trin, it’s Yet the great (or terrible, depend-
that the Vikings switched the names eyeballs pulled out of their sockets. really best if you’ve seen the two ing on your perspective) thing about
Why Iceland of Greenland and Iceland in hopes As they screamed, I kept thinking NBC sitcoms 30 Rock and Parks and Trin is that his good looks do not
of tricking everybody as to which to myself in icy-cool-blue lettering Recreation. Trin is kind of a hybrid of manifest in his personality as arro-
Why anywhere? It’s unclear how the place to call home. Historically, this with mist rising around the edges: Rob Lowe’s Chris Traeger, and Jon gance and entitlement and cruelty the
places we wish to travel get stuck in is probably kinda-sorta accurate in Icccccee-Laaaaaand. Hamm as Liz Lemon’s two-episode way they can in certain people. Like
our heads as destinations on a kind of the superficial, elementary school- After that, a whole bunch of shit boyfriend: this incredibly handsome Chris Traeger, his optimism and love
epic, global to-do list—most of which level way—as roughly accurate as, happened. dude with black hair, bright blue-gray of life are the two most prominent
will never get done before worms “The founding fathers were all great I graduated from college, I traveled eyes, a concoction of dark Greek and qualities to his personality. He’s just
are sucking out our eyeballs. I know men.”] the country, I moved to Chicago, I got Italian features, strong build, resplen- a really, really nice guy. A really nice
that stored in my imagination I have Tarantino—spastic, emphatic, and a job, I published my first book, I quit dent smile. guy, who played center for his high
a panoply of countries, cities, vistas, on Conan to promote the release of the job, I traveled some more, I wrote [Of course I’m comfortable school football team, studied engi-
monuments, spider holes, canteens, a film he’d produced that served the more books, I saw Hostel II. Through enough in my sexuality to call anoth- neering at Georgia Tech and worked
hallowed grounds, and myriad other sole purpose of allowing viewers to it all, I never really considered travel- er guy’s smile “resplendent.” I also as a consultant for IBM. To be sure,
Planet Earth destinations I’m always watch young people get sadistically ing to Iceland; it just sat in the back have a Sarah McLachlan song on my all this could be totally obnoxious. Ev-
telling myself I’ll get to eventually. tortured to death—planted a bug in of my mind, unrealized. It’s strange iTunes—“World on Fire”—so eat me.] eryone knows a person who’s just too
God help us if interstellar travel ever my brain that never wormed its way the way that opportunity arises in life, Like Jon Hamm on 30 Rock, he’s annoyingly kind and great and perfect
works out and suddenly we add mul- out. I was a college kid who enjoyed the way forces can coincide and align. this handsome guy who just does to the point where you think it’s either
tiple planets and solar systems to that getting drunk and attempting to sleep Here is the unremarkable story of not understand that his handsome- bullshit and he’s a child molester or,
to-do list in our to-be memory. with beautiful women, so how could how I ended up actually going to Ice- ness gives him great advantages in even worse, not bullshit. Luckily (or
With Iceland, however, I remember his endorsement not stick? land, but first you have to know about life. From women to work to socializ- unluckily), Trin has just enough of an
the exact moment I decided I had to [Sooo much has changed since those a couple of friends of mine, who will ing, the indefatigable aura of swoon edge to round him out. He’s funny but
get there. I was in college and Quen- days. For instance: Now I have this both go by bastardized versions of produced by the red-giant star of his in that really weird way that makes a
tin Tarantino was on Late Night with weird patch of hair that grows out of their last names. handsome carries him across the uni- person refreshingly normal. For in-
Conan O’Brien raving about his New an otherwise hairless quadrant of my [Although I’m about to do a really verse with rainbows trailing. He never stance, his farts smell like the after-
Year’s Eve experience in Iceland. “Su- abdomen and I’m terrified to shave terrible job of protecting their identi- seems to understand that it’s not nor- math of a nuclear holocaust, and he
permodels working at McDonald’s,” or pluck it for fear it will expand or ties, and by the end of this you should mal for a guy to walk into a bar and giggles every time he births one.
was the phrase that understandably coarsen. It’s a totally different world.] easily be able to Facebook both and have every attractive woman stumble In 2011, Trin decided he needed to
stuck with me. Previously, I knew ba- That movie he was promoting was follow them on Twitter.] over themselves to talk to him. He just try something new; he’d been at his
sically nothing about the country ex- called Hostel. I remember sitting in “You’re not leaving us in suspense can’t comprehend that for the rest of job at IBM for five years, and he got to
cept that its capital city was Reykjavík the theater watching this film where are you, you sonofabitch?” normal-looking-guy humanity, smil- the point where, “I was either going
and it wasn’t as cold as Greenland. outlandishly beautiful women lured —Trin, to Bojo when Bojo said ing resplendently won’t cause pant- to keep going along, heading down
[This is the one piece of knowl- young kids into torture chambers aloud that he wasn’t sure if he would ies to dissolve in moisture across a that path or I was going to try to do
edge-that-shouldn’t-count-as-knowl- to get their thumbs cut off and their take a shower in the morning. 50-mile radius. something I always wanted to do.” He
35 Literature
One Ticket - Three Museums

din t
u i l f ar
gs
e b rk o
went to his supervisors and told them to have four dates in a week, plus
Hafnarhús

o
Tryggvagata 17,

u n netw
he wanted to quit, and they gave him two weekend nights on the town that
101 Rvk.
a seven-month leave of absence in- lasted till 4 a.m. in order to find fod-
Open 10-17

iqu
stead—as if that had nothing to do der for more dates. It only dawned on

t
Thursdays 10-20

thr rges
with dropping that resplendent smile, me that I was going to blow through
the stupid, beautiful fuck. this relatively meager movie money

ee
la
“We should have told them we’re way too fast when I bought an ex-

m s d´s
not typical cruise-ship D-bags. We’re tremely pretty 41-year-old divorcée

s e u lan
in
on-land D-bags.” (who clearly was an adult person who Kjarvalsstaðir

m u it Ice
—Bojo, on how we better could made more money than me) $100 Flókagata, 105 Rvk.
have seduced two cruise ship danc- worth of casual drinks on a Tuesday Open 10-17

V is
ers we met in a coffee shop, who, night.]
we figured, were probably only im- I also wanted to use the money
Ásmundarsafn
pressed by good-looking D-bags on to take a trip somewhere I’d never Open Daily Sigtún, 105 Rvk.
their cruise ship. been before, and when Bojo and Trin May-Sept.:
I don’t think I exchanged more mentioned that they’d bought tickets Open 10-17
than five words with Bojo during the to Iceland, I flashed back to that long- Okt.-Apr.:
first six months I knew him. The guy ago endorsement from the producer Open 13-17
is preternaturally quiet even when of Hostel. Within a few weeks I’d
www.artmuseum.is Guided tour in English available every Friday at
surrounded by his best friends. At found a $600 ticket on Icelandair.
Tel: (354) 590 1200 11am. in June, July and August at Kjarvalsstaðir
parties, he can blend into the con-
versation and stand without saying a What This Book Is Not
word for so long that you wonder if
he’s had a stroke. For someone who Before we get to our story, we have
enjoys talking out of his ass so much to go over a few things this book is
that it’s kind of a waste my mouth is not so that no one is upset when they
located on my face, this is beyond my begin to understand that I have no
ken. Our mutual friends and I often recommendations for Reykjavík fine
wonder what he’s thinking about in dining, nor do I understand how to
these moments, if he’s actually deep say, “Which way is the potato farm?”
in thought about the ether-bound or any other Icelandic phrase. I know
mysteries of the universe or if he’s nothing about Iceland other than
just humming in his head to the Raw- what I’ve gleaned from my travels
hide theme, “Bojo-Bojo-Bojo! Bojo- and read on the Internet or in this
Bojo-Bojo! Bojoooo!” archeologically fascinating educatio-
But then you get to know the kid informatensil of our near past called
and slowly discover that not only a “bok.”
is he an incredibly intelligent guy, [My editor says the correct spell-
but he also has that weird sense of ing is “book” but we will have to
humor, with an innate ability to say agree to disagree.]
something so perfectly goofy and ir- This is not a guide. I know no other
reverent at the exact right moment. I routes in Iceland other than the one
always tell him that he likes to save I took, and I know no other destina-
it up, to say nothing for two hours of tions and sights other than the ones I
a five-hour car ride and then hit you saw.
with the off-the-cuff remark at the If I had to classify this, I’d call it
precise moment you’re least able to travel lit with a distinctly Markleyian
resist it. Taking it back to NBC sit- flare—“Markleyian” being the defini-
coms, he’s Costanza making the one tion of any weird little fucking thing
crack at the boardroom meeting, that comes into my head stirred with
throwing up his hands, and leaving narrative and sociopolitical whining.
the room. He also recently grew a full, There will be stories that have
dark, jealousy-inducing beard, which nothing to do with Iceland. There will
one of my female friends in Chicago be vastly inappropriate jokes about
observed made him my second hot- body functions and functions the
test friend (guess who took first?). body was never intended to under-
Bojo, also an engineer, worked in take, and many of these will not be all
the suburbs of Chicago for a manu- that funny if you weren’t there.
facturer, designing parts for big in- This is also not a “backpacker’s
dustrial firms like Caterpillar, which guide” to shit. I did not live in Ice-
is about as outside of my understand- land for six months. I didn’t even
ing as IBM consulting or not speaking have a backpacker’s backpack. I had
for an hour. His commute from the a little rolly-type suitcase my mom
city took an hour there and an hour gave me several years ago, which I
and a half back. This kind of daily slog wheeled around loudly over cobble- This is Solla Eiriksdottir, the winner
meant he woke at 6 a.m. and rarely stones looking very mom-like. My ac-
got home before 7 p.m. One can only tual backpack I’d just gotten for free
of Best Gourmet Raw Chef and Best
keep up that kind of schedule for so from a friend, and it drew me only Simple Raw Chef in the 2011 and
long before either going crazy or mar- because of its sheer number of pock-
rying someone awful and moving to ets. For some reason I find multiple
2012 “Best of Raw” Awards. Come and try out one
the suburb where he works. So Bojo pockets a very attractive feature of of her great dishes at her restaurant Gló.
applied to grad school and decided a backpack, especially because my
on the MBA program at Carnegie actual backpacker’s backpack, which
Mellon in Pittsburgh. This meant he I’ve lugged around on so many pre-
too would be quitting his job, and it vious trips, is this Osprey with just
just seemed clever to quit before the one massive pocket for everything,
summer began to join Trin for a few so all your clothes, books, toiletries, Reykjavík · Engjateigur 19 and Laugavegur 20b · Hafnarfjörður · Strandgata 34 · www.glo.is
months on his trip. After an exhaus- and other possessions just end up in
tive search (you will quickly learn a savage muddle. Though they sell
that these two are into researching a lot of merchandise, I would gladly
things “exhaustively” before plung- enter an Oxford-style debate to argue

Heavenly pizzas!
ing in, which only begins to define that Osprey doesn’t know dick about
the wonderful differences in our per- backpacks.
sonalities), they found a cheap flight I took a 2½-week trip and, let’s face
to Reykjavík on Icelandair. it: if you’re a debt-loaded postgrad in
this uncertain economy you probably
Enter Markley have to parcel out your travels uneas-
ily and even 2½ weeks seems like a
Unlike Bojo and Trin, I wasn’t quitting luxury of gargantuan proportions.
a job or going back to school. I’d been So if you’ve bought this book, just
underemployed for a year or more, know that it will be a little foul. It will
was in the middle of working on my not teach you anything about Iceland
second and third books simultane- that you can’t look up on Wikipedia. It Opening hours:
ously and had just lucked into the fat- may make you laugh, but people who

Home delivery
test fiscal windfall of my life when I claim in the first chapter that the read- mon-thu 11:30-23
sold the movie rights to Publish This er will laugh are usually assholes. fri 11:30-06
Book. Without going into the biogra- My hope is not only that somehow, sat 12-06
phy of this period too much, I’ll say someway this becomes the indis- See our menu at www.gamlasmidjan.is & sun 12-23
that I basically used the cash to 1) pensable book that cool people read
stop scrapping for freelance gigs to before or during a trip to Iceland, but
focus on book writing for as long as I that perhaps it inspires more people
could and 2) take as many pretty girls to travel to Iceland. All I can say with
out on dates as I could possibly fit full credibility is that I went to Iceland
into waking hours. and kind of fell in love with the place.
[This had its benefits and draw- This is how it happened. www.gamlasmidjan.is tel. 578 8555 Lækjargata 8
backs. For instance, it got expensive
 Frú Lauga is located at Óðinsgata 1 and Laugalækur 6. For information
The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013
and opening hours go to www.frulauga.is.
Date 36

Svavar Pétur Eysteinsson

The Vegan Sausage King Of Iceland
by Rebecca Louder

Appropriately enough, we are meet- first batch of sausages. “I thought I the best, it has such a good flavour,”
ing at the new Óðinsgata location had delivered enough to last a week he says passionately. Indeed, these
of the organic, fresh-from-the-farm or two,” he says, “but they sold out pudgy, auburn-coloured fry-em-ups
specialty store Frú Lauga. Svavar in two hours. Between ten in the have really consumed all of his cre-
makes a quick half circle to the trunk morning and noon, all three stores ativity.
of his car and opens it up to reveal were sold out.” His eyes are wide in “I spent the past two years work-
two crates full of his latest success: joyful bewilderment. It’s as though ing in a studio, sitting down, and I
Bulsur vegan sausages. Not only the reality of it has still not sunk in, really felt the urge to do work that
does he shop here, but they are one even though his batches have pro- involved standing and using my
of the four local shops that sell the gressively increased from 40kg to hands,” Svavar explains how he redi-
meat-free links, and today they’re 600kg in one month in order to meet rected himself towards honing a new
getting a delivery. the demand. craft. “One thing that sparked this
was sitting in my studio looking at a
Meatless pursuit stack of unsold Skakkamanage CDs
and thinking, come on!”
Of course, up until recently, most “With a CD,
people knew Svavar for producing
maybe a few Creation is its own reward
entirely different creations. Namely
music, as a member of the band
Skakkamanage and as front man
people buy it but He says that this new venture has so
completely taken him over that he
for weirdo-pop darlings Prins Póló, they have it for a has put graphic design entirely on ice
various graphic design ventures plus (except for designing Bulsur labels),
having been co-proprietor of the long time. With and doesn’t even really have the de-
dearly departed Havarí book and de-
sign shop. Then suddenly, he turned
sausages, more sire to make music (sorry, fans!). He
seems slightly bashful to admit that
his attention to sausages. “I went people buy it but he had to force himself to take a cou-
vegetarian last year and I quickly ple of weeks off at the end of sum-
got a craving for sausages,” Svavar they... recycle it mer to finish up the next Prins Póló
tells me, while helping to unload one
of his crates of shrink-wrapped non-
a lot quicker.” record, scheduled for a fall release.
But altogether, he doesn’t see this
meat. “The problem is I hate soy, so I change as a drawback. “It doesn’t
couldn’t really have any of the meat- make a difference if I’m making an al-
less sausages available. So I decided bum or a poster or sausages, it’s just
to make my own.” You can’t digitise food about creating,” he says. “I’m the
Thus he launched into almost a same person, and the urge to create
year of trial and failure in recipe mak- He and his wife, Berglind Häsler also comes from the same place. It’s just
ing, he tells me, ambling around the of Skakkamanage and Prins Póló, a different outcome.” He is also re-
shop eyeing the day’s crop and ex- now spend four or five days a week ceiving so much feedback about his
changing pleasantries with another making Bulsur at the Esja food pro- product—“It’s nice to hear the good,
person delivering their wares. “I cessing facility, renting the time, but it’s important to hear the bad”—
tried many different things to get the equipment, technical and culinary that he’s even getting the urge to im-
Magnús Andersen
consistency and flavour right, and it support. I point out that the techni- plement a culinary experimentation
really took a lot of time,” he says, but cal process of making the sausages kitchen in his own home.
doesn’t recall a test batch so terrible is not so different from recording a And all this because he went veg-
A large glob of water keeps dripping out he had to spit and rinse. studio album. “That’s kind of true!” etarian? Well, yes. “Changes in life
The result? A Coeliac sufferer’s Svavar laughs. “There’s a similarity are good for you because they help
of someone’s rain-gutter onto my head dream sausage: a mix of barley, to it, but what’s really different is you come up with new ideas. Move

as I huddle in a doorway, waiting for my beans, almonds, chia and flax seeds,
with no traces of potato, soya, glu-
how people consume the product.
With a CD, maybe a few people buy it
houses, quit your job, quit smoking,
quit drinking, quit eating meat,” Sva-
mid-morning date, Svavar Pétur Eysteins- ten or egg. He walks over to a shelf but they have it for a long time. With var says. “When you quit something,
and grabs a bag of barley from Móðir sausages, more people buy it but you start something new. If you’ve
son. Moments later, a large burgundy jeep Jörð, an organic farm in Vallanes. they... recycle it a lot quicker.” been doing something for a long

swoops into the parking spot ahead of me “This is what I use to make Bulsur,”
Svavar states with determination. “I
Svavar walks past the barley and
picks up a box of Saltverk Reykjanes’s
time, get rid of it and you will find
new things in life.”
and out pops the man of the hour, smiling love this stuff. This farm is so great.”
Svavar seems particularly at
flaky sea salt, which is handcrafted
in the Westfjords using a 200-year
Nodding happily, he looks over to
his left and points to a bag of spelt
and chipper as a farmer about to pick the home in this extremely small shop, old artisanal method. Again, this is buns. “I just discovered these recent-
perhaps due to the fact that it was another product he swears by for ly. They go really well with Bulsur.”
morning crop. one of three locations that sold his making Bulsur. “This salt is really
 FREE RIDE
TO REYKJAVÍK’S
LARGEST
SHOPPING CENTRE
Kringlan´s shuttle bus schedule from the
Tourist Information Centre, Aðalstræti 2.

To Kringlan From Kringlan

Monday – Saturday
10.00 am
1 2.00 am 11.30 am
2.00 pm 1.30 pm
4.00 pm 3.30 pm

Sunday
1.00 pm
3.00 pm 2.30 pm

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for a refund of up to 15% of the price.

Monday to Wednesday 10–18.30,

Thursday 10–21, Friday 10–19, Saturday 10–18, Sunday 13–18 www.kringlan.is
 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 Dance 38

LET’S DANCE
The Reykjavík Dance Festival 2013 is almost here!
Words by Rebecca Louder – Photos curtesy of Reykjavík Dance Festival

23AUG
1
SEP
Various locations http://reykjavikdancefestival.tumblr.com ISK 14,900, 9,900 or 2,200

Back with our locals, there will

be several much anticipated pre-
mieres, including ‘Scape Of Grace’
by Saga Sigurðarsdóttir, ‘Soft
Target Installed’ by Margrét Sara
Guðjónsdóttir and ‘To The Bone’
by Erna and Valdimar’s company
Shalala. The latter will also act as
an introductory performance for
the ‘Black Yoga Screaming Cham-
Diederik Peeters confuses and mis- ber’, an ongoing installation by
directs with his paranoia-inspired Erna and Valdi found at various
piece, Red Herring. locations until September 1, which
will bear some loud and intense
‘Evaporated Landscapes’, a piece fruit.
comprised of ephemeral elements This festival is the local dance
subject to factors like temperature, community’s answer to Iceland
lights, body bass and mechanics. Airwaves: it’s just as cool and
Heine Avdal and Yukiko Shinozaki, jam-packed full of amazing talent,
the Swedish-Japanese couple who and you don’t have to wait in long
go by the name Fieldworks, will queues! So take the week off work,
deal with uncertainty, immediacy drop the kids off with the grand-
and humour in their piece ‘Bor- parents, devote one week of your
rowed Landscapes’, performed in life to performance art and enjoy!
the Bónus grocery store.

Kattrin Deufert & Thomas Plischke let the audience get playful in ANARCHIV#2: second hand.

At the end of the month, our fair is curated by different artistic di- the growing number of foreign
city will be inundated by perfor- rectors, and this year it is spear- guests allows them to make better
mance. Since 2002, the Reykjavík headed by multi-platform perform- outside connections, build collabo-
Dance Festival has been the single ers Erna Ómarsdóttir and Valdimar rations and fit into the context of
most important time of year for Jóhannsson. It is also partnered the European dance community.
Iceland’s independent profession- with the Lókal International The- Among the international per-
al dancers and has contributed to atre Festival for the second time formers are Deufert&Plischke from
the vast growth and expansion of and shares the same social space. Germany, bringing a piece entitled
their work. This year’s edition stands out ‘ANARCHIV#2: second hand’ which
Operating on a purely local for having the highest number of Thomas Plischke says allows the
level for its first few years, the fes- international performers involved audience to play along with them,
tival had a couple of re-toolings in the festival. Although the festi- but never forces them into partici-
The Surprised Body Project by Franscesco Scavetta & Wee creates com-
until they landed on a model that val is primarily made by and for the pation. The Brussels-based Dane
plex metaphors using human bodies.
truly fit. Since last year, the event local freelance dance community, Mette Ingvartsen will perform

Dance Festival Social Club

While the festival’s artistic director’s hands are spilling over festival’s ten days with a slew of free events – workshops, lec- world where non-dancers see no room for themselves. His and
with curatorial work, next year’s pre-selected directors, Alex- tures, performances, dancing, and nightly parties. “It’s kind of Ásgerður’s company have been making a push over the past
ander Roberts and Ásgerður G. Gunnarsdóttir, a.k.a. Choreog- like a magic trick or a con where we’re using DJs, free publica- year to include different types of people into their works and
raphy Reykjavík, are in charge of setting up the SUPER SOCIAL tions and free food to get people into the space,” Alexander he says this is an attempt to bring people in on another level.
SPACE, a type of pop-up outreach space where the dance com- says, “then we try to confront them with contemporary dance So head over for breakfast and the Morning Clashes series,
munity and the non-dance related public can converge. and choreography.” an evening meal and a Choreography For Dinner, or a late night
Taking place in Dansverkstæðið, a dance and choreography He says this approach is a targeted response to the feeling drink and some rowdy dancing. They welcome everyone with
space attached to KEX Hostel, the space will be open for the that the Reykjavík dance community is an opaque, exclusive open arms and jazz hands.

WELCOME TO OUR TRULY SPECIAL WORLD

39 Dance

The Guy In The Fur Coat

Shitting His Pants
Diederik Peeters returns to Iceland
by Rebecca Louder

Diederik Peeters rejects the notion of being a minor cult celebrity in Iceland. Despite the fact
that the claim was made by none other than Erna Ómarsdóttir, one of the artistic directors of
this year’s Reykjavík Dance Festival and Diederik’s former collaborator, he laughs it off as a
“loving exaggeration.” Nonetheless, even the festival’s managing director, Tinna Lind Gun-
narsdóttir, says, “Icelanders remember him as the guy in the fur coat.”
If this was not intriguing enough, to Erna extending a personal invitation or solution. Citing names like Tati,
Diederik is coming back to Iceland at to him to come back for the festivals Hitchcock and Bunuel, he says the
the end of the month with a perfor- this year. “She hasn’t even seen my show takes cinematic cues in terms
mance that will span two partnered new piece but she knows I don’t do of the sound and lighting as well.
f e s t i va l s — t h e aforementioned crap,” he says. What he is bringing to Conceptually speaking, he
Reykjavík Dance Festival and the the stage is a creation that can simply delved into aspects of humanity
Lókal International Theatre Festival. be described as a duet between a man that suffer greatly from false clues.
His piece, ‘Red Herring,’ thoroughly and a soundtrack. “Since I don't actu- “Over the last couple of years, I
blurs the lines between the two me- ally know how to make performances, somehow developed a perverse
diums of performance for a produc- I decided to take the liberty to fool interest with intense mental states
tion that is as confusing as the title around with the typical tools of the or psychological conditions where
proverbially implies. stage in order to find out how to use reality presents itself differently,”
and to misuse them,” he says. “For me Diederik says. “In that sense, para-
Man in a black box set, sound and light are equally impor- noia was kind of a starting point.
tant tools as text or performers.” If one suffers from it, it’s probably
Diederik started his career on an As his previous piece focused on very annoying, but if you take it out
entirely different track from the hy- the dramatic possibilities of a set, in of its clinical context it’s very fun-
bridization of dance and theatre, ‘Red Herring’ he focuses on the as- ny to watch someone just shitting
studying visual arts and harbouring pect of sound. “The sound imposes themselves for nothing.”
musical aspirations. “It's all a ter- itself as a character, almost physi-
rible mix-up,” he says, “but since cally, to the point where it tries to
I'm no good at any instrument, and take over the show,” he continues.
much better in pulling faces, I some- “Quite annoying actually...” Dieder- “I really enjoy
how ended up doing what I'm doing ik’s dance partner—the sound—will making things
now.” This meant a gradual shift be controlled by sound-designer
from mainly doing video work and Lieven Dousselaere who was also so tremendously
installations to doing strange per- part of the production of Erna’s ‘We complicated that
formances in galleries, outside of Are All Marlene Dietrich FOR’ and
the usual staged context. a regular collaborator with her and it becomes almost
Eventually, he decided to set her partner, Valdimar Jóhannsson. impossible to avoid
some boundaries for himself and Lieven stays at the back of the
took his works into the “black box” theatre space trying to keep control mistakes. It's a form
we call theatres. “When I was mak- an entire cockpit of buttons, LED- of self-sabotage that
ing these weird, difficult to cat- lights and faders. “Although we've
egorise performances, it was very performed the show over 20 times I'm quite fond of.”
cool but also very tiring,” he says. now, it’s still a physical battle for
“That’s when I said, okay I’ll get ac- him to make it to the end of the per-
quainted with all the elements of the formance alive, so to speak,” Die- Using the idea of a person vul-
stage world—sound, lighting, etc. derik says. “It's equally hard for me nerable to becoming distressed
I'm still figuring it out myself, but to keep my head above water. I re- over figments of the imagination,
have high hopes to find out some- ally enjoy making things so tremen- he folded the use of sound as a trig-
day soon now.” dously complicated that it becomes ger to increase paranoia. “To quote
Ten years ago, he met Erna almost impossible to avoid mis- good old Luis Bunuel,” he says,
Ómarsdóttir while the two were takes. It's a form of self-sabotage “sound triggers the imagination
working with theatre director Jan that I'm quite fond of.” more than image.” The National Museum of Iceland
Fabre in Belgium. This led to her He also seems comfortable mak-
celebrates its 150th anniversary 2013.
asking him to perform in her piece Man is paranoid ing his audience a little paranoid
‘We Are All Marlene Dietrich FOR,’ a before they arrive at the theatre. “I
and confused Along with the permanent exhibition that features
work commissioned by the Iceland quite like to get confused myself;
Dance Company, which earned him Aesthetically, the show is highly in- I find it an exciting and inspiring Iceland’s history from settlement to present day the
his local reputation. “My role in it in- fluenced by cinema, which Diederik state of mind. And so I can't help museum will offer a variety of exhibitions during the
volved me doing a kind of parody of says is a much stronger reference myself to start confusing the audi- year, e.g. on Icelandic silver and photography.
John Lennon’s ‘Imagine’ while wear- point for him than dance or other ence as soon as possible,” he says.
ing that ridiculously big fur coat,” forms of performance. “The gen- “Let's keep it at this: knowing that
Diederik laughs. “We were hanging eral atmosphere of the stuff I do is the term Red Herring refers to a
out at Sirkus a lot and I guess my often considered quite cinemato- false clue, maybe the title doesn't Opening hours:
dancing style caught some eyes.” graphic,” he says. He openly ad- have anything to do with the show Summer (1. May-15. September): Daily 10-17
mits stealing the term “red herring” at all, and is only there to put you on Winter (16. September-30. April): Tuesday-Sunday 11-17

Man against the music from the well-known plot device the wrong track.” Audiences may Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík.
that acts as a false clue, diverting be misdirected, but are unlikely to tel: 530 2200 Thjodminjasafn@thjodminjasafn.is
His involvement in that work also led attention away from the true culprit be disappointed.

Book your ticket

online & save
time for relaxing
 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 Film 40

Hollywood Dreams Come True

Things are going A-OK for director Baltasar Kormákur
By Valur Gunnarsson

Baltasar Kormákur just could be to Icelandic film what Björk is to Icelandic music. In the same way that Björk made Ice-
landic music known outside of the country, Icelandic film has slowly been reaching out to an international audience
—and nobody has made it farther than Baltasar.

dic films such as ‘Jar City,’ based on the book when spy organisations were no longer only
by best-selling crime fiction writer Arnaldur gathering information but also taking direct
Indriðason. His first American-produced film action,” he adds, and agrees that the ongoing
was ‘Inhale,’ starring Diane Kruger, but his big “War on Terror” might be one reason why spy
breakthrough came with ‘Contraband’ in 2012. films seem to be making a comeback.
This was a remake of an Icelandic film that he
himself starred in, with Mark Wahlberg now in Vikings in space
the leading role. Despite receiving mixed re-
views, the movie went straight to number one Baltasar’s next film after all this will be ‘Ever-
at the American box-office on its opening week. est,’ about a real life mountaineering expedition
that went tragically wrong. This will also allow
him to spend time at home: “We can probably
shoot most of it on Icelandic glaciers; I don’t
“I was offered more think there is enough oxygen on Everest itself to
money than many make it there.” The film will star Christian Bale,
who was last seen in Iceland in 2005 when he
people get in a lifetime was making ‘Batman Begins’ (where Iceland
to do ‘Fast and Furious also stood in for Tibet).
Among his other planned projects are a se-
7,’ and it is more dif- quel to ‘Jar City’, a television series based on the
popular Icelandic computer game EVE Online,
ficult than I would have and a long awaited epic set in the Viking Age.
thought to say no when “I want to show the Viking world in a way that it
has never been seen before. No Icelandic direc-
these kinds of offers tor so far has had the budget to do this prop-
start coming in.” erly. At the Viking Alþingi, or Parliament, for
example, thousands of people came together
but so far we’ve only gotten to see a few tents
on screen.”
In a position now to do what he wanted,
Baltasar decided to return home to make ‘The Turning down more money
Deep,’ a film based on a play about the true sto- than you’ll ever make
ry of an Icelandic sailor who spent a night in the
freezing ocean swimming to land after his ship Other projects he has declined. “I was offered
Christian Schulze went down. His next film is ‘Two Guns,’ star- more money than many people get in a lifetime
ring Wahlberg again, along with Denzel Wash- to do ‘Fast and Furious 7,’ and it is more difficult
ington. The film will premiere in the autumn, than I would have thought to say no when these
Baltasar is currently in Berlin, filming the pilot about him and was one of the major heart- but before that, Baltasar has his Berlin story to kinds of offers start coming in. What is appeal-
for an HBO series called “The Missionary.” The throbs in Iceland in the ‘90s. His first film as complete. ing is to be able to get the budget to make big
story commences in East-Berlin in 1969 and director, ‘101 Reykjavík’ from 2000, starred films that also have content, such as “Everest,”
continues into the ‘70s. The director himself Spanish actress Victoria Abril and became an The return of spy films even if you get paid less. I want to make interest-
actually visited East-Berlin once in the ‘80s. “I international success of sorts. ing films that also appeal to an audience. I never
was on a trip with my drama class, just before It was around this time that he sold his Parts of Karl-Marx Allee have been made up to wanted to make just hardcore arthouse films
the Wall came down. We had been partying shares in Kaffibarinn, the bar which he owned look like they did in 1969, with period cars and and when I direct for the theatre I also want to
and I was very hung-over when we crossed with Damon Albarn of Blur and where much of people in period dresses. The sight is consider- reach people, rather than do a political one man
the border and looked nothing like the picture the film is set, and turned to domesticity, marry- ably different than what one is used to seeing in show in a basement that no one sees.” Baltas-
in my passport. I was arrested in customs and ing supermarket chain heiress Lilja Pálmadóttir. other period pieces from the shiny ‘60s. “When ar indeed still directs for the Icelandic National
the whole class had to wait while things were He also largely abandoned acting and turned you remake a period, you are not just remaking Theatre, which is where he started his career
sorted out. When we finally entered East-Ber- full time to directing. This means long periods that period but also the one that came before,” over 20 years ago.
lin, it seemed as if the sun disappeared behind away from home. “My son Pálmi is here with says screenwriter Charles Randolph. “Not all the “When I was growing up in a Reykjavík sub-
the clouds and the food tasted kind of strange,” me on set, so I try to bring these things togeth- cars in 1969 were new, and in some ways East urb in the ’70s, I had some dreams that hardly
he says. er. It’s not always easy to be away for four or Berlin at the time looked more like the 1940s.” seemed likely to come true. People would have
five months at a time, but you cannot complain The series starts with a failed escape at- laughed if I told them I wanted to be a director in
Love in the ‘90s about being able to do what you want to be do- tempt over the wall itself, which has been Hollywood,” he says. Producer Steve Levinson
ing,” he says. rebuilt in Budapest on the site of the show’s adds: “Perhaps Baltasar will make it fashionable
Sometime after his release from East German main set. “There were four generations of Ber- to go to Iceland to look for directors.”
detention, Baltasar started his career in ear- Nr. 1 in America lin Wall and they all appear in the series,” says Which is more or less what Björk did for Ice-
nest, playing Romeo on the Reykjavík stage Randolph, whose father was a missionary landic music.
and then becoming the leading man in several Baltasar’s first English language film was ‘A who helped to smuggle people to the west.
Icelandic films. Born to a Spanish father and Little Trip to Heaven’ in 2005, starring Forest “My father wasn’t involved with the CIA, but I
Icelandic mother, he had a whiff of exoticism Whitaker, which he made in between Icelan- know the atmosphere well. This was the time
41 Film

Backyard Babies
By Valur Gunnarsson

August is your last chance to see the

cavalcade of classic Icelandic films
that have been playing at Bíó Paradís
this summer. Especially worth seeing
are two films—‘Heima’ and ‘Back-
yard’—that capture the local music “Out of this world!!!”
scene in the last decade.
For many, the music of Sigur Rós
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conjures up images of the Icelandic
countryside, magnificent mountains
and peaceful fjords. It’s somewhat
ironic that initially they primarily
appealed to big city folks, whereas
country-dwellers in Iceland preferred
the more dance-friendly, less cere-
bral concerts given by mainstream pop bands with sól (“sun”) in the title
(such as SS Sól, Á móti sól or Sóldögg). ‘Heima’ (“At Home”) from 2007 docu-
ments the attempts of the ethereal elves to bring their music back home. The
locals at first seem puzzled by the latté-drinking, lopapeysa wearing post-
rock superstars but are soon won over. The setting is fantastic and the music
is sublime. A darker undercurrent in the film is the damming of the highlands,
which was vigorously protested by the band. Perhaps one day ‘Heima’ will be
seen as a vital document, not just of a great band at the peak of their powers,
but also of these isolated communities before the dams of modernity burst.
Whereas Sigur Rós set off to
explore the countryside, ‘Back-
yard’ keeps its heart firmly in
101 Reykjavík, revolving around
a concert held in somebody’s
backyard on Culture Night in
2009. It is perhaps the ultimate
cinematic document of the
‘krútt’ (“cute”) generation of
Icelandic musicians who grew
up in the shadow of Björk and Sigur Rós, where originality was key and inter-
national fame was just around the corner. Múm are the biggest stars here and “It certainly was the best of the many places we dined in Reykjavik!”
Retro Stefson the brightest hope, but it is perhaps the band Reykjavik! that
gives the best performance, rocking out fiercely and at some point attempting
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to eat their microphones. FM Belfast closes the show surrounded by fans on all
sides, some of them only in their underwear in keeping with the lyrics, which
prompts the band to do the same. Like the music, the film is low-key, intimate
and charming, a sort of ‘Rock in Reykjavík’ film of this new generation
B O R G R E S TA U R A N T - P Ó S H Ú S S T R Æ T I 9 - 1 1 - 1 0 1 R E Y K J AV Í K
TEL: +354-578-2020 - INFO@BORGRESTAUR ANT.IS - WWW.BORGRESTAUR ANT.IS

Unraveled BO
OK

By Alda Sigmundsdóttir RE
VI
EW

Review by Larissa Kyzer

‘Unraveled,’ the debut novel of seasoned journalist,
translator, author, and blogger Alda Sigmundsdóttir,
opens on the brink of calamity—the sort of world-
changing upheaval whose warning signs, in retro-
spect, seem so obvious, but which completely elude
those involved until it’s much too late. The year is
2008, and Frida Lowe, the wife of a British diplomat,
has just returned to Iceland after 12 years’ absence.
Struggling with the ghosts of her difficult childhood,
the last-gasps of a failing marriage, and a pervasive
lack of confidence, Frida’s own personal meltdown
coincides with the kreppa, the financial crisis which
crippled Iceland’s economy and sent the entire nation
into its own bout of soul-searching and regeneration.
For Frida, the past is, as the saying goes, but a
prologue to the growth and change that her future promises. And so, much of the
novel’s first chapters are spent in flashback, examining the defining moments in
Frida’s life which have led her to her present situation. This backstory is not strictly
necessary from a narrative standpoint, but it is so richly realised that it creates a
genuine intimacy with the character, a context which allows the reader to see all
of her behaviour in a clearer light. Alda takes the same approach with the histori-
cal elements of her novel: a pivotal scene takes place just after the two airplanes
were flown into New York City’s World Trade Center. This event obviously sets

THE FRESHEST FISH ....AND IDEAS!

about serious historical consequences, but in the context of the novel, it also has a
profound impact on Frida and her relationship with her husband. With this gift for
hindsight, ‘Unraveled’ can be forgiven for occasionally veering from its present-
day plotline into melodrama, although even these unexpected twists are ground-
ed in retrospective revelations. Looking backwards, everything falls into place. After years of study,
Playing narrative tragedy off of so recent, so fraught, and so controversial an strings of awards and
historical moment is an ambitious project to be sure, but Alda handles it with bal- having led kitchens of
ance and clarity, and no wonder. Not only did she spend six years good-naturedly some of Reykjavík’s most
providing non-Icelanders with a window into Iceland’s culture and political land- esteemed restaurants,
scape via her beloved blog The Iceland Weather Report, she has also published Gústav still sees him
‘Living Inside a Meltdown,’ a collection of interviews with Icelanders about the fi- self as just a kid from
nancial crisis. Moreover, as an Icelander who spent over 20 years living outside the up north, with a life-
country, Alda has a unique perspective—she, like her main character Frida—can
time passion for fish.
be both inside of Icelandic society and also maintain a bit of distance from it. This
gives her writing—from her humorous essays on the Icelandic character (‘The
Little Book of Icelanders’) and her retellings of traditional Icelandic folktales (‘Ice-
landic Folk Legends’), to this, her first novel—a welcoming quality, an awareness
that certain truisms (or generalisations, depending on your perspective) about the
Icelandic character are helpful to have explained.
Occasionally, these snappy factoids (ranging in topic from Icelanders’ insis-
tence on hygienic bathing rituals and their predilection for arriving at the last min-
ute, to the renowned independence of Icelandic women) read a bit awkwardly,
although Alda appears to be in on the joke: “You’re giving me the Icelandic Tourist
Board spiel,” Frida teases, after being warned about the unpredictability of Icelan-
dic nature. “Oh, sorry,” comes the reply. “I forget that I’m not showing a foreigner SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 14 - 101 REYKJAVÍK - 571 1100
around.”
 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 History 42

A Guided Walking Tour

Dark Raping And Pillaging

deeds On why we should view ‘Viking Culture’
with more than a pinch of salt
in Reykjavík by Tómas Gabríel Benjamin
Literary walk
• Every Thursday in June, July and August
at 5pm
• Starts at Reykjavík City Library
in Tryggvagata 15
• No booking is needed - Free of charge
• This 90 minute walk is at an easy pace
and suits everyone
• The focus is on crime fiction, ghost
stories and other dark phenomena
www.borgarbokasafn.is
www.cityofliterature.is

Axel Sigurðarson

Reykjavik City Library

www.borgarbokasafn.is
Tel. 411 6100 Icelanders are taught that they are descended from blue-blooded Norse
lords who fled from King Harald because they would not abide by his tyran-
ny and crippling tax rates, instead opting to settle Iceland. Celebrating this
SandhoLt BakeRy allegedly noble lineage, we claim to have Viking blood coursing through our
veins and use every opportunity to remind the world of this.
the FineSt
SandwicheS We give our companies, drinks,
streets and gyms Viking names, and
1800,” Viðar says. “The source ma-
terial is shaped and reshaped to the
So where does this leave us Ice-
landers? Is cultural nihilism the only

in downtown just before the economic crash we

attributed our international finan-
extent that you can be very sceptical
about there being anything ancient
way forward? Not necessarily. Even
if we can’t be sure about the authen-

oF Reykjavík cial success to the aforementioned

Viking heritage. But isn’t this a bit
about it.” In other words, authors
wrote and interpreted Viking culture
ticity of our stories, or how old they
are, they are still ours. The idea of Vi-
grotesque? Weren’t Vikings infa- to suit their own political agenda, kings having been explorers, settlers
mous for raping and pillaging their and our modern ideas of the noble and mercenaries still holds a certain
way through Europe? Why is their savage Viking were manufactured appeal, and our medieval fares are
bloody history and heritage con- many centuries after the last Viking still very entertaining events, even
stantly celebrated in a secular and raids occurred. if we have to accept that a lot of the
peaceful society? Asked who the Vikings were, his- gaps in sources are filled in with
torically speaking, Viðar says they modern ideas.
were a group of pirates who used
Setting sail
clever tactics to gather treasure,
I embark on a voyage to discover cattle and slaves at a minimal risk. “The sources
more about historical Vikings, who They were good at what they did;
they were, what they did and what they operated an impressive navy, are shaped and
Laugavegi 36 - 101 Reykjavik
Iceland’s fascination with them
means. My first port of call is the of-
and were often hired as mercenar-
ies by kings and nobility. Those
reshaped to
Monday - FRiday 7.30 - 18.15. SatuRday 7.30 -17.30. Sunday 8.30-17.00 fice of Viðar Pálsson, researcher at
the Árni Magnússon Institute for Ice-
same people would also engage in
commerce, make settlements, and
the extent that
landic Studies and lecturer in history, live normal medieval lives as farm- you can be very
medieval studies and legal history at ers. Only a small number of Norse
the University of Iceland. people would go on these raids, and sceptical about
Now offering Viðar is quick to point out that the
Old Norse manuscripts we have on
Vikings were not written by contem-
it is very doubtful that many of these
pirates came from Iceland.
there being
anything ancient
catering service! porary authors. The hit and run raids
conducted by the Nordic pirates had
all but completely gone out of fash-
Nothing is true, everything
is permitted
about it.”
ion by the end of the 11th century, As Viðar animatedly describes
when Scandinavia fully converted the period when Viking raids were Modern Iceland has a lot of excit-
from paganism. Not even the grand- common, it becomes apparent that ing tourist attractions. There is a rich
children of Vikings were alive to tell there is reason to not take any of our and diverse musical scene, and a del-
the Christian scholars Saxo Gram- sources as absolute truths on the icate nature filled with unbelievable
maticus or Snorri Sturluson about subject. Take for example the myth scenery. Vikings are very appealing,
the pagan culture they so famously that Icelanders are descended from but they are not Iceland’s only at-
documented in the 13th century. the noble freedom-loving lords of traction. We can call our streets and
Norway. “Iceland was settled by beverages Viking-themed names,
Overly romanticized ideal many different kinds of people,” erect statues to celebrate famous Vi-
Viðar says, “some perhaps chief- king adventures, and dress up to put
“Seeing the ‘Viking age’ as a par- tains, but most were just normal on a show as ‘Vikings.’ But let’s just
Open: ticularly heroic age, and promoting people.” And the abysmal reputa- remember that even if our sources
Mondays-Saturdays 11:30-22:30 certain ideas of it that are not nec- tion of Vikings raping and pillaging were inspired by reality, they are not
essarily true, is a later product of comes from their contemporary vic- to be taken as historical facts.
Sundays 16:00-22:00 the Age of Enlightenment, around tims demonizing their attackers.
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 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 44

National Formality-Deficiency?

Árni Hjörvar is a musician

Nanna Dís

I am by absolutely no means proper. In fact, the concept

of formality scares me. Just typing out the word gives
me chills and fills me with an inexplicable need to write
“This insistence on unifor-
this piece like a job application. Formality. It terrifies me. mity, coupled with their
Formal conversations are not the main issue here, as I am
lucky enough to have learnt English systematically and history of class and aris-
as a second language, which means I can usually pull off
a good bluff when it comes to formal speech. Besides,
tocracy makes the English
if I find myself out of my depth I can always feign igno- the world champions in
rance and play the “I didn’t know better, it’s my second
language”-card. It works either way. formality. By comparison,
On the other hand, formal events are considerably
trickier to fake. First of all, my whole body stiffens up and
Icelanders, men in par-
loses control over its joints as soon as I see a suit, let alone
when I have to wear one. I look more uncomfortable in a
ticular, are cavemen.”
suit than Don Draper in a clown costume. Furthermore my
formal self is undeniably dull. A suit makes me lose the
ability to talk in whole sentences or say anything of inter- most certainly beautiful, colourful and fun—especially the
est to anyone. silly woollen hat that comes with it—but it was deemed
A suit makes me a boring stuttering halfwit. My only way too informal to ever be worn outside The National Mu-
escape is the nearest bar, which usually yields exactly the seum or in period plays.
same results. Because of this admittedly irrational fear I
have managed to go through life without the slightest Scampering Scots vs. Us
understanding of suits. My mum bought me one when I
graduated from college and since then it’s only served as a Having recently attended a Scottish wedding I got a real
reminder of younger, leaner and more carefree times. firsthand experience of what effect a good national outfit
I hate the thing. can have on people. I fell in love with the outfit and the
pride attached to it. Scots are a proud bunch, but even
Outstanding vs. Conforming prouder when sporting the Highland Wear. Perhaps as a
Pavlovian response to the emasculating nature of wearing
As goes for most character flaws of mine, I, rightly or a skirt, the kilt wearing Scot seems to spend the majority
wrongly, attribute this formal handicap to my nationality. I of his time bragging about Hadrian’s Wall and Scotland’s
believe that compared to the English we Icelanders are ter- continuing superiority over the English.
rible at formality. The English thrive best in suits. They’re Another brilliant skirt wearing reflex is the Sgian-dubh,
one of the very few nations in Europe that still insists on which is a small—most of the time fake—knife tucked
school uniforms, and that seems to teach people formal- into the sock and gives the outfit another confusing but
ity from a very young age. I can count on one hand the an entertaining dimension. Unfortunately, I don’t think the
instances I’ve had to wear a tie whilst English people wore same applies to our Hátíðarbúningur. Whilst I do find it el-
one every day of the school lives. egant and smart, its formality still frightens me. Besides,
This insistence on uniformity, coupled with their his- it doesn’t fulfil its purpose of instating pride in its wearer.
tory of class and aristocracy makes the English the world It’s black and conforming and neither feels important nor
champions in formality. By comparison, Icelanders, men in exclusive enough to justify its status as a national outfit.
particular, are cavemen. Icelandic women can pride them- Thankfully though, we still have the old quintessentially
selves on an elegant and graceful traditional outfit but us Icelandic costume somewhere in the basement of The Na-
men have no history of formal wear. In fact, our national tional Theatre. My suggestion is we dig it up and embrace
Hátíðarbúningur (English: “Ceremonial costume”) was our formality-deficiency. It’s bound to spark new life into
designed in 1994. It’s younger than me! It was designed our confirmations, weddings or Christmas parties. Instead
as a pragmatic, modernised and formal alternative to the of meagrely talking about the weather we can spend our
traditional costume it replaced. time wrestling, boasting about our Viking roots and moan-
It seems to be the consensus that we sorely needed ing about the Danish.
something formal. A notion that is easily understood Let’s be more like the Scots. It certainly sounds like fun
when you actually see what it replaced. The traditional to me.
male costume is about as ceremonial as our national drink
Brennivín, and as graceful as our national sport Glíma. It is
 2013
Festival of Sacred Arts
Hallgrímskirkja Reykjavík
August 16th–25th
From primal waters to celestial abyss Ólafur Jóhann Ólafsson

FROM THE FESTIVAL PROGRAM: www.kirkjulistahatid.is

FRIDAY AUGUST 16TH WEDNESDAY AUGUST 21ST
7 pm 8 pm
Opening ceremony in Saxophones and organ
Hallgrímskirkja Sigurður Flosason (saxophones) and Gunnar
Gunnarsson (organ) perform hymn music by Þorkell
Music - Art exhibition - Dance Sigurbjörnsson in their own arrangements.
Sigríður Soffía Níelsdóttir dancer, Björn Steinar In collaboration with the Reykjavik Jazz Festival.
Sólbergsson organist, Chamber choir Schola
cantorum, String ensemble, Hörður Áskelsson Admission: 2.500 ISK (Students half price)
conductor and Douglas Cleveland organist from
Seattle.
Free admission!
THURSDAY AUGUST 22ND
8 pm
Trumpet and organ
Festive sounds
Stephen Burns, America’s leading trumpet player, is a
special guest at the Festival of Sacred Arts.
On the program is Telemann, Vivaldi and others.
Stephen Burns trumpet (Chicago), Douglas Cleveland
SUNDAY AUGUST 18TH organ (Seattle),
8 pm Baldvin Oddsson trumpet (b. 1994) is a special guest at
7 pm
Arvo, Adam and Agaton the concert.
Art exhibition opening: Admission: 3.000 ISK (Students 2.500 ISK)
Concert in honor of Arvo Pärt
VATN Ticket also valid for 10 pm concert
Participants:
Guðrún Kristjánsdóttir is the visual artist of the
Schola cantorum
Festival of Sacred Arts 2013.
Festival String Ensemble
The artwork VATN is an ode to water in our surroundings
and religious life and is placed in the choir stalls and Soprano: Tui Hirv
in the foyer. A part of this piece is a musical piece by Baritone: Fjölnir Ólafsson
composer Daníel Bjarnason played on stones by Páll from
Conductor: Hörður Áskelsson
Húsafell.
Premiere in Iceland: Adam’s Lament. Engaging music!
Admission: 4.500 ISK (Students 2.500 ISK)

10 pm
The other side
Ari Bragi Kárason trumpet and Eyþór Gunnarsson
piano join their forces.
SATURDAY AUGUST 17TH In collaboration with the Reykjavik Jazz Festival.
Admission: 2.000 ISK (Students half price)
5 pm
Cleveland and Kairos TUESDAY AUGUST 20TH
A fateful time at the organ
9 pm
Organ virtuoso Douglas Cleveland from Seattle
Magnificent Muhly! FRIDAY AUGUST 23RD
performs Mozart, Saint-Saëns, Guilmant and more.
Admission: 2.500 ISK (Students half price)
“7 x 2 and rev. Mustard” 9 pm
British concert organist James McVinnie plays Nico New dimensions of the Klais organ
Muhly in combination with organ works by Bach, Gibbons,
Duruflé and others.
Young, experimental composers!
Some of Iceland’s leading experimental composers and
Admission: ISK 2.500 (Students half price)
musicians induce a new world of sound through the
revamped computer equipment of the Klais organ.
Curator: G. Vignir Karlsson
Admission: 2.500 ISK (Students 1.000 ISK)

The following sponsors support: Tickets:

Ministry of Education Science and Culture | The City of Reykjavík | Embassy of the United States of America | Lýsi ehf Hallgrímskirkja, open every day from 9 am to 9 pm,
Við þökkum eftirtöldum aðilum kærlega fyrir veittan
stuðning við útgáfu þessa blaðs
Reykjavíkurprófastsdæmi vestra | Hallgrímskirkja | Kirkjumálasjóður | LogoFlex | Gunnar Eggertsson ehf s. 510 1000
Festival of Sacred Arts in Hallgrímskirkja
Skólavörðuholti - 101 Reykjavík
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PRENTVÖRUR
ge.is
 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 Travel 46

1 Eyjafjallajökull Distance from Reykjavík: 156km

Chasing Volcanoes
With Veronica
The adventures of Carol and Veronica – Part 2

By Carol Devine

Carol Devine

our very best price is always onl

highly seductive offers to all our destinations
iceland, greenland or the faroe islands
 47 Travel Issue 12 — 2013 The Reykjavík Grapevine

into a wall of darkness; ash: they could only nant of a crushed bridge from a 1996 eruption
see three to four metres in front of the car,” and flood.
our guide tells us. “An extremely fine mate- “You can read Iceland’s history in the land,”
rial landed on everything. People had to really Helgi Jón says. “We are driving over lava from
clean their houses when they returned.” the 1784 eruption.”
Iceland was minimally affected. Keflavík
airport only closed for six days while millions Gloomy
were stranded in Europe and beyond. Apart
from inconvenience and financial loss, there Now we’re in the lava desert. As sun is lower-
was little suffering overall. ing, we walk on endless black and brown lava
from old and new eruptions.
Voldemort Veronica marvels at Helgi Jón’s story of
how hard it was for people and horses to cross
Eyjafjallajökull last erupted in 1821, blowing lava. Now moss grows on the rocks like car-
ash for months. pet, but it’s still a moon-like and jagged walk.
Disaster or acts of nature, depending on Helgi Jón notes a benefit—improved soil
magnitude, can also bring opportunity. At the from volcanic ash. There’s good farming in
Centre and along this road shops sell bags of Iceland now.
ash. Veronica picks up two pitted liquorice If any nation adapts to change, it’s Iceland-
black lava rocks and puts them in her pocket. ers. They live with Mother Nature’s beauty
Helgi Jón says, “Nearby is Hekla, it is a and beasts.
very active, powerful volcano. At the time of “Now we have high tech seismology and
the 1104 eruption people knew nothing of ge- know about moves in the earth’s crust,” says
ology. They thought hot things were from hell, our guide.
the devil.” Eyjafjallajökull’s message to me is that we
Hekla has had at least twenty eruptions must expect the unexpected, be alert and take
since 1104. better care of the Earth, regardless of nature’s
Carol Devine
We drive towards Vatnajökull, Iceland’s plans. Keeping ‘death over your shoulder’ can
largest glacier. Our guide says, “That’s Katla.” mean awareness of immorality and doing
I can’t believe I am in front of the silent, even beautiful, vol- It is in the distance. I feel he is wary of this vol-
cano. Is it my imagination or do we speed as
meaningful things, like taking this trip.
Veronica writes in her made-in-Iceland Tu-
cano Eyjafjallajökull. You’d never know the chaos it wrought we cross its path? Helgi Jón says “Katla” as if lipop journal. The cover is the cartoon charac-
three years ago. Today it’s a powder blue sky winter day. I’m fears speaking its name, like Harry Potter’s vil-
lain Voldemort. Eyjafjallajökull’s eruptions are
ter Gloomy. “Gloomy is daring, adventurous
and above all brave. She lives at the base of
here with my nine-year-old, Veronica. She remembers I was
stranded far away once and I remind her it was because of this
volcano’s ash. “Now we have high tech seismol-
We’re about 120 kilometres outside of Reykja-
vík, a lovely drive on Route 1. Our tour of south
When it erupted I was in Uganda, checking
my flight on the Internet. I was confused to
ogy and know about moves in the
Iceland includes volcano stories, perhaps in-
evitably. Restless Iceland is covered in volca-
read that Schiphol airport in Amsterdam, my
transfer airport to Canada, was closed. earth’s crust,” says our guide.
noes that erupt on average every four years. I could never have guessed this eruption
“shut Europe’s skies,” causing a knock-out ef-
Spectacle fect globally. Nobody knew how long it would
take for the ash to clear. Airports were crowd- reportedly followed by Katla erupting, its “An- the Jam-Jam volcano,” the description says.
This 1,666 metre high volcano under the ice cap ed with people fighting for flights. I criss- gry sister.” Katla’s 1918 eruption produced five Veronica can imagine this as we stay at a
isn’t obvious. It’s an “icing sugar snowy moun- crossed Africa catching planes home. times the soot of Eyjafjallajökull. Since 2010, wonderful farm in Hali, amidst volcanoes. The
tain,” says Veronica. Below is a pastoral, red- Now I’m here in Hvolsvöllur outside the Ey- Katla only had a minor sub glacial eruption. next day she hikes fearlessly across the spec-
roofed farm. jafjallajökull Visitor Centre. Its publicity says, “It will erupt; it is a matter of time. In July tacular blue Svínafellsjökull, a nearby glacier
Eyjafjallajökull, meaning “island moun- “Like the volcano in our back yard, we proudly 2011 there was a little flood following a small tongue.
tain glacier,” is one of Iceland’s 30 active vol- erupt…the Þorvaldseyri Visitor Centre—a fas- eruption that washed the road away. We are “You’re brave like Gloomy,” I tell Veronica.
canic systems. It awoke in February 2010 and cinating, family-run exhibit about the massive going over a temporary bridge,” he says. Helgi She smiles.
touched my life, worrying me but making me Eyjafjallajökull volcano.” Jón’s tone is also one of respect for nature. In Reykjavík we stroll on Skólavörðustígur
feel alive. The eruption was preceded by thou- The family farms cattle but since 1960 it Some past eruptions caused horrific flood- street. Veronica admires the volcanic rock
sands of small earthquakes that volcanologists also grows grain crops. On their centre’s sign ing, famine and catastrophe. Skaftáreldar in jewellery.
monitored closely. is a 2010 image of that same red-roofed farm 1783–1784 blew and produced a 580 square ki- At the art supply store Litir og föndur we
“Icelanders would come watch it. It was but with ominous billowing smoke pouring lometre lava field. Eruptions created icebergs buy tiny bags of black lava rock cut into beads.
amazing spectacle, especially in dark,” our from the volcano. the size of multi-story buildings, crushing and “Let’s make necklaces,” Veronica says. Good
guide Helgi Jón Davíðsson says. “People were evacuated for three days to flooding all in its wake. luck charms.
Eyjafjallajökull started spewing ash by April a nearby village. They were allowed to return All we can see crossing the massive field Icelanders live with volcanoes. We all do.
14, 2010. Hundreds of locals were evacuated. once daily to check their animals. They drove in our minibus is lava soil. We also visit a rem-

airicel and.is
GRÍMSEY

ÞÓRSHÖFN
ÍSAFJÖRÐUR
VOPNAFJÖRÐUR

AKUREYRI

ILULISSAT

line.
EGILSSTAÐIR

ITTOQQORTOORMIIT

NUUK

KULUSUK
REYKJAVÍK
NARSARSUAQ

THORSHOFN
 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 Travel 48

Distance from Reykjavík: 156km The Fimmvörðuháls Volcano Hike can be

1 Fimmvörðuháls
booked at www.mountainguides.is

After Eyjafjallajökull
The eruption-scarred landscape of Fimmvörðuháls is a theme park for hikers
by John Rogers

Fimmvörðuháls is an old hiking trail in Southern Iceland that's flanked by two glaciers, Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. The
name means "five cairns pass," and whilst the original cairns are no longer used, it remains a well-marked path popular with na-
tives and visitors alike. Between June and August each year, the summer weather allows hikers up past the dramatic Skóga river
to the highlands, passing through snowscapes and a volcanic area before descending into the idyllic Þórsmörk nature reserve.

Nanna Dís

In recent times, Fimmvörðuháls coach stop), we catch another and tion, plucked from this spot by a
had a brief spell of worldwide no-
toriety during the Eyjafjallajökull
arrive at Skóga a few hours later.
Our group comprises two interna-
swell of post-eruption floodwater.
Eyeing the rusting metal struts, we “Eyjafjallajökull looms to
the left, graceful and si-
eruption. The route was declared tional visitors, myself, Grapevine's climb some makeshift rungs, duck-
impassable for several days as vol- photographer, and our Icelandic ing through the railing to cross.
canologists monitored lava flowing guide, Anna. We introduce our-
towards Þórsmörk; once it was re-
opened, many took the opportunity
selves in the sunshine, and after
a perfunctory check of footwear, An island in the clouds
lent. She's an awe-inspiring
to walk its 22km length and check
out the volcano in action.
clothing and food & water supplies,
we set off slowly up the high stair- On the other side, we're met by a
sight—a vast, oddly alien
Thousands of hearty tourists
walk Fimmvörðuháls annually, ar-
way to the right of the waterfall.
A bright rainbow appears in the
chilly highland breeze and a rocky
plain stretching out before us.
protrusion from the earth,
riving from Reykjavík or nearby
Skógar bearing hiking poles, water
spray, like a good omen for the day.
The path climbs past the Skóga-
Eyjafjallajökull looms to the left,
graceful and silent. She's an awe- haloed by ash and mist like
an island in the clouds.”
bottles, assorted box-fresh hiking foss waterfall viewing platform inspiring sight—a vast, oddly alien
gear and technical clothing. For the into a rolling green landscape, protrusion from the earth, haloed
uninitiated, the correct attire can skirting the riverbank. Waterfalls by ash and mist like an island in the
be an expensive business—walkers come thick and fast—some are clouds.
need to be warm and waterproof, long, elegant streams that plum- The road forks, and our guide sons of Thor, are two new craters which it would be unsafe to pass.
but also able to easily shed and met into fissures far below; others decides we should take the faster that spewed forth a mass of lava, Finally comes a narrow, uneven,
stow layers should the sun come cascade down over several steps, path. Although the gradient is creating a twisted black vista that vertigo-inducing stretch of path
out, ruling out most conventional and others still are wide walls of easier, the terrain gets rougher, stops abruptly where it solidified. with no support at all and sheer
clothing for one reason or another. foam that send cool mist onto our requiring concentration at every The freshly formed rock is still hot drops on either side—a terrifying
Thankfully our tour company, faces. turn. I almost miss an icy mural to the touch, and sulphurous steam few seconds for anyone with an
Icelandic Mountain Guides, is The first moment of difficulty that clings to a distant cliffside— seeps from the ground everywhere aversion to heights.
used to such dilemmas and offers comes when the path rises into a out here, nature is quite the artist, as we pick our way through the liv- However, Anna is reassur-
boot hire to those who call ahead, series of sandy ledges over a drop and we pass many sculptural for- ing landscape. ing and encouraging throughout,
as well as raincoats and loaned into the river. One precarious step mations of eroded snow, dried lava stressing that such features should
equipment, requiring first-time has no support, and our guide and windblown sand that wouldn't Into the valley be taken with care, and that a slow,
hikers only to dress comfortably helps us over. There seems no ob- look out of place in a contemporary comfortable pace is preferable.
and sensibly. The company has vious way forward, but we zigzag gallery. The high pass to Þórsmörk offers She interprets her role more as a
been running for fifteen years and up a steep section of scree hillside. At an elevation of about 1000 a spectacular view over the moun- technical guide than a narrator of
is used to catering to groups of Far below, some smashed planks metres, two tent-shaped metal tain range ahead, with hazy peaks the geography and scenery. As we
varying experience, grading the lie in the rocky riverbed, serving as shelters roughly mark the halfway stretching into the horizon in grays, approach the sheltered, leafy val-
difficulty of each trip from one to a timely reminder of the dangers at point, and a line of yellow poles greens and purples. After eight ley of our Básar pickup point, the
five. We note with trepidation that hand. mark the way across a series of hours of walking, the descent pres- timer hits the ten-hour mark and
Fimmvörðuháls ranks a four on the After a long plateau littered with ash-dusted snowfields, sandbanks ents some of the most challenging the sky starts turning to a deep,
scale. boulders and glacial debris, the and rocky outcrops. Each peak and tiring terrain of the hike. At one rosy pink. We top up our water bot-
next landmark is a high footbridge feels like a small triumph until we point, the trail becomes a series of tles from a freshwater stream then
The omen over the Skóga river, but the steps see the next one: "there's always alarming ledges on a vertical cliff- slump into the seats of the home-
on our side are completely missing. one more," smiles our guide. side with a chain bolted into the ward bus, aching and glowing from
After missing the bus due to a lack "Did you see them back there?" asks A couple of hours later, we rock for balance; another particu- an unforgettable day in the majes-
of signage at BSÍ (the bus leaves Anna, and I realise those planks reach the area of the eruption. larly steep shale bank has a rope tic Icelandic wilderness.
from the front taxi rank, not the were in fact the stairway in ques- Magni and Móði, named after the hanging down the decline, without
3 MILLION VISITORS:
ICELAND ENCAPSULATED
360 ° CINEMATIC EXPERIENCE

THE EXPO PAVILLION AT THE OLD HARBOUR

SHANGHAI - FRANKFURT - REYKJAVÍK
2010 2011 2012-2013

Harpa music hall

THE EXPO PAVILION

Whale Watching
 Helgi Hrafn Guðmundsson is one of the editors of an Icelandic web magazine called Lemúrinn (Icelandic for the
The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 12 — 2013 native primate of Madagascar). A winner of the 2012 Icelandic Web Awards, Lemurinn.is covers all things strange 50
and interesting! Go check it out at www.lemurinn.is.

The Presence Of A People: Icelanders In 1900

by Vera Illugadóttir & Helgi Hrafn Guðmundsson

In the last decade of the 19th century a young ““But didn’t you find it very cold?” is a question come dazzling fairylands, while the wild-flow-
Englishman named Frederick W.W. Howell so often asked the writer, that he fears there are ers at their feet can rival those of many a Swit-
travelled extensively in Iceland, visiting parts many intelligent Englishmen yet to whom Saga zer Alp. There are few countries in which such
of the country that were overlooked by most Land is little else than an ice-bound, ice-clad, great changes of scenery occur within a com-
other travellers and taking priceless photos ice-capped isle, save where Hekla’s flames or pass so limited. From pasture to desert, from
of the island and its inhabitants. Here is the Geysir’s floods have pierced the crystalline peak to sea, from ice to lava is often a transition
preface to a book he wrote about his trip called crust! To such, these pages will come with spe- for which an hour may suffice. It is true that
‘From Icelandic Pictures Drawn With Pen And cial interest, revealing the wealth of historic monuments of antiquity are conspicuous only
Pencil (1893)’ and photos of some of the Icelan- lore and the fulness of mountain beauty pos- by their absence; but the presence of a people
dic people that he met: sessed by Iceland. And even the snowfields with the language and many of the customs of a
themselves, in the hot bright summer days, be- thousand years ago is a monument of itself….”

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 Descend 120 meters into the
dormant Thrihnukagigur volcano.

I have never been anywhere

underground that matches
the grandeur and impact of
this place.
- Sunday Times

Standing inside a volcano

is a strangely emotional
experience.
- The Guardian

One of twenty places in the

world you must see before
you die.
- CNN

Inside the Volcano

Journey towards the Center of the Earth
For the first time in history, travelers have the opportunity to see what
a volcano looks like on the inside. Descend into a 4.000 year old
magma chamber and experience a new underground world.

• Tour departures: 8:00 / 10:00 / 12:00 / 14:00

• Maximum 14 people in each tour
• Duration: 5-6 hours (up to 1 hour inside the volcano)
• Minimum age: 12 years
• Fitness level needed: Moderate. No knowledge of
hiking or climbing is required.

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administration of Occupational Safety and Health in Iceland.
InsideTheVolcano.com
 www.cheapjeep.is
info@cheapjeep.is
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Page 12

River Rafting
Day Tours! We Proudly Wear

From 9.990 ISK

“We have been running a mosque in Iceland for
ten years now, and nobody is complaining about
it. We have not bred any terrorism or made any
problems for anybody, so I don’t think that will
change. The only thing that will change is the
building.”

When it comes to the mosque debate, Sverrir

Agnarson of The Association of Muslims in Ice-
land has faith in the facts.

Page 24-27

“Each visitor to Iceland is not just a self-sustain-

ing entity walking down the street. It's another
human to feed, to clothe, to transport, and nota-
bly, to shelter.”

Read how local supply stacks up to foreign de-

mand in the battle over Reykjavík’s downtown
development.

Page 34

“With a CD, maybe a few people buy it but they

have it for a long time. With sausages, more
people buy it but they... recycle it a lot quicker.”

Rebecca Louder goes on a date with musician

turned Sausage artisan, Svavar Pétur Eyste-
insson.

Page 42

River Rafting has been one of Iceland’s most popular adventure activities for almost 30 years!
Our South rafting base at Drumbodsstaðir is located on the shores of the popular Hvitá River,
right in the Golden Circle! With daily departures at 10:00 and 14:00, experience river rafting
as a convenient day tour from Reykjavík or as part of an unforgettable adventure combo!
Our North rafting base at Hafgrímsstaðir is in the heart of Skagafjörður, Iceland’s whitewater
“‘Seeing the ‘Viking age’ as a particularly heroic capital. Take the family for a scenic half-day float through the towering canyons of Vestari
age, and promoting certain ideas of it that are Jökulsá, or put your nerves to the test with a full day of adrenaline- pumping whitewater action
not necessarily true, is a later product of the
on the world-famous Austari Jökulsá! Daily shuttle service available from Akureyri.
Age of Enlightenment, around 1800,’ Viðar says.
‘The source material is shaped and reshaped to
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 ADVERTISING

Music, Art, Films and Events Listings

+ Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map
Issue 12 - 2013 www.grapevine.is

YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND

CULTURE 101

Culture Night ("Menningarnótt")

City Centre | August 24 | Free!
Only in Iceland could you collect a third of a country's population for an arts and culture event in the
downtown area of its capital city. After this night there will be no doubt in your mind that Iceland hosts
more creativity in tiny little Reykjavík than most countries do in their entire population. Peruse the program
which lists nearly 600 events and keep an eye out for the hundreds of unregistered events that pop up…
who knows, you could be a part of one of them! The creativity here is contagious! AB
Raggi Th.
 MUSIC
CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE
August 16 - 29
How to use the listings: Venues
are listed alphabetically by day.
For complete listings and detailed
information on venues visit
www.grapevine.is Send us your
listings: listings@grapevine.is
Friday August 16
Boston
22:00 DJ KGB
Café Rosenberg
21:00 Skúli Mennski & Band
English Pub
22:00 Gunni / Addi & Co.
Fríkirkjan
20:00 Mats Gustafsson
Gamli Gaukurinn
22:00 Erpur / Sesar A / Addi Exos
Hallgrímskirkja
19:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts -
Opening Ceremony
Harlem Fabúlous Sounds And Chalk Dust
21:00 DJ Pedro Pilatus / Bjúddarinn
2013 Fabúla’s Rough & Sweet & Rumble Concerts
Hressó
22:00 VJ FúZi Menntaskólinn í Reykjavík | August 17, 19, 21 | 3,950 ISK
Kaffibarinn
22:00 DJ Kári
KEX Hostel Fabúla decided to go back to school, the most famous second-
22:00 Gym & Tonic: Gadios
Prikið ary school of Iceland that is. She is not there to brush up her
22:00 DJ Jay-O algebra though, but to host a set of wondrous concerts with her
Saturday August 17 band. Not really a newcomer in the business, this contemporary
pop, jazz and folk-loving lady has been working on her music for
Bar 11
23:00 Angist & Blood Feud almost two decades. And this just in! There will be video instal-
Boston lations of Icelandic nature by Helena Stefánsdóttir and Arnar
22:00 DJ BenSol
Café Rosenberg Steinn Friðbjarnarson. Art for all senses – we promise! Tickets
22:00 The Midnights are available at the Lækjartorg tower and at the tourist informa-
Dillon
22:00 Why Not Jack / DJ Krummi tion centre on Aðalstræti 2. KN
English Pub Photo: Páll Eyjólfsson
22:00 Danni / Biggi and Maggi
Gamli Gaukurinn
22:00 Boogie Trouble / Báruján /
Babies / Björ
Hallgrímskirkja 29
17:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts August
- Cleveland & Kairos Organ
Concert
Harlem
22:00 Benni B-Ruff / KVIKSYNÐI #6
Harpa
20:00 Joshua Redman Quartet
Hressó
22:00 Span / VJ FúZi
Kaffibarinn
22:00 DJ Casanova
Prikið
22:00 DJ Pedro Pilatus

Sunday August 18
English Pub
22:00 Dagur and Hjálmar
Hallgrímskirkja
11:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - High
Mass
20:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Con-
cert in Honour of Arvo Pärt
Hannesarholt
16:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - All The Musicians Of The World Unite
Music Seminar On Music Of Arvo
Pärt
I, Culture Orchestra: Seven Countries, One Chord
Explore Learn Discover Harpa
16:00 Icelandic String Instrument
Concert
Harpa | 19:30 | 2,300 - 4,500 ISK
Nordic House
15:00 Pictures, Dreams – Improvi- Harpa is the venue for anything big. Doesn’t an orchestra of 100
sation Concert
Prikið people from seven different countries in Eastern Europe and
22:00 Kristinn Pálsson Caucasus sound big enough? We thought so too. Don’t wipe
Monday August 19 away the look of amazement from your face just yet, because the
performers are all between just 18 and 28 years old. The orches-
Café Rosenberg
21:00 Edda Borg tra’s main concept is that no matter where we are from, music
English Pub will break the barriers of language. Or as Michael Jackson and
22:00 Addi
Gamli Gaukurinn his friends put it best: "We are the world." KN
22:00 Open State
Hallgrímskirkja
10:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Chil-
dren's Art Workshop
18:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Ves-
per Evensong & Glockenspiel
KEX Hostel
21:30 Gym & Tonic: Jóel Pálsson
Quintet
Prikið
22:00 Reggae Monday / DJ Katla Reykjavik Museum
Tuesday August 20 of Photography
Iceland´s first educational and recreational
Northern Lights Center. Learn about the facts Café Rosenberg
21:00 Sigurður Flosason
and enjoy the beauty of the Northern Lights English Pub
22:00 Ingi Valur Exhibitions all year round
Hallgrímskirkja
18:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Ves- ADMISSION FREE
Visit us and experience our multimedia exhibition per Evensong & Glockenspiel
21:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts -
Open every day from 10:00 - 22:00 James McVinnie Organ Concert
Kaffibarinn
22:00 DJ Ívar Pétur under the influ-
ence of Andri Snær Magnason
Grandagarður 2 - 101 Reykjavík KEX Hostel
20:30 KEXJazz
It's only a ten-minute walk from the city center Prikið GRÓFARHÚS 6th Floor
22:00 Orang Volante Tryggvagata 15, 101 Reykjavik
Opening Hours: Mon–Thu 12–19
www.aurorareykjavik.is Fridays 12–18, Weekends 13–17
www.photomuseum.is
Wednesday August 21
Boston
22:00 Ari Bragi & Co.
Bravó
20:00 Melancholica Festival (A
Celebration Of Sad Songs)
Café Rosenberg
21:00 Sigurður Flosason
English Pub
22:00 Raggi
Hallgrímskirkja
12:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts -
Schola Cantorum Lunchtime
Concert
18:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Ves-
per Evensong & Glockenspiel
20:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts -
Þorkell's Hymns Saxophone &
Organ Concert
Kaffibarinn
22:00 Krystal Carma
KEX Hostel
20:00 Síminn Concert / Úsland &
Jean Louis
Prikið
22:00 Gunni Ewok

Thursday August 22
Bravó
20:00 Melodica Warm Up Concert
Boston
22:00 DJ Þórunn Antonía
Dillon
22:00 The Pollock Brothers Record
A Live Album
English Pub
22:00 Ingi Valur and Tryggvi
Hallgrímskirkja
18:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Ves-
per Evensong & Glockenspiel
17:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts -
Trumpet & Organ Concert
Folk Yeah!
22:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts/Reyk- Melodica Festival
javík Jazz Festival - Trumpet &
Piano Concert
Harlem Old Harbour & Café Rosenberg | August 23 - 25 | 15:00
22:00 Straumur Birthday Party
Hressó
21:00 Jam Session If you're more acoustic than electric, more analogue than digital,
Kaffibarinn keep an ear out for the Melodica Festival which is set to dock in
22:00 Housekell
Nordic House Reykjavík with 70 songwriters including 15 international artists
17:00 Brother Grass Pikknikk from the far seas. This year folks will colonise Café Rosenberg
Concert
Prikið and the budding artistic haven that is the Old Harbour. Special
22:00 DJ Katla performances are planned for Reykjavík's Culture Night on the
Friday August 23 24th as well. If there was ever a prime time to don a sailor cap or
your team Zissou gear, this weekend would be it! AB
Boston
22:00 DJ Kári Laugavegi 20a, 101 RVK, 552 2300, lebowskibar.is
Café Haíti
16:00 Melodica Acoustic Festival
Reykjavík
Café Rosenberg
23
12:00 Melodica Festival August
Dillon
22:00 Tabula Rasa
English Pub
21:00 Raggi / Dagur & Hjálmar
Hallgrímskirkja
18:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Ves-
per Evensong & Glockenspiel
21:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Elec-
tronic Organ Concert
Harlem
22:00 Live Funk / DJ Katla / Tag-
träumer² (DE) & Steindór Jónsson
Hressó
22:00 Gunna Óla Rock Quartet / DJ
Solid
Kaffibarinn
22:00 Símon FKNHNDSM
Prikið
22:00 House Band & Southern
Comfort
Saturday August 24
Bar 11
23:00 Skálmöld & Co.
Boston
22:00 DJ Herra Gott
City Centre
09:00 Culture Night
English Pub
21:00 Gunni / Böddi & Co.
Gamli Gaukurinn
22:00 Plastic Gods
Harlem
22:00 Super Flu (DE) & Samaris /
Ghozt & Bjössa Brunahana
Hallgrímskirkja
15:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Tó-
mas Guðni Eggertsson & Chil-
dren's Choir
15:40 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Or-
ganist Björn Steinar Sólbergsson
16:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - The
Hallgrímskirkja Motet Choir
17:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts -
Hljómeyki Chamber Choir
17:30 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Or-
ganist Mattias Wager
18:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - So-
fiachurch Choir (SE) & Orchestra Funk Those Neighbourhoods!
18:30 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Ac-
cordion Player Jón Þorsteinn BRONX #1: Tagträumer² (DE) & Steindór Jónsson
Reynisson & Organist Jón Bjar-
nason
19:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Two Harlem | 22:00 | Free!
Generations Of Trumpet Players
19:30 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Vox Putting aside all old borough rivalries, the open minded folks at
Feminae & Reykjavík's Girl's Choir Harlem are not afraid to let a little bit of the Bronx walk in and set
20:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - Or-
ganist Mattias Wager Improvisa- up a club night. No gang fights there! BRONX #1 has the hon-
tional Concert our of hosting the world-conquering DJ Tagträumer² from Berlin
Harpa
20:00 Monika Brodka as their special guest. Then local house and techno producer
Hressó Steindór Jónsson will take people down to the depths of elec-
22:00 Lady Díana & The Softtones /
VJ FúZi tronic music. Time to Tag(träumer²) along, this is as deep as it
Kaffibarinn gets. KN
22:00 DJ Kári & Alfons X
 MUSIC
CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE
KEX Hostel
22:00 Culture Night Concerts: Me-
gas & Júpiters

Summer
Loft Hostel
16:00 Culture Night Concert Ex-
travaganza
Nordic House
18:00 Culture Night Artwrite REYKJAVÍK CiT Y CEnTER
Prikið
22:00 Benni B-Ruff

� the city
Sunday August 25
English Pub
21:00 Danni
Hallgrímskirkja
11:00 Festival Of Sacred Arts - High
Mass
Prikið
17
August
22:00 Sævar Markús

Monday August 26
English Pub Sunshine, Moonlight, Good Times, Boogie!
21:00 Gunni
Kaffibarinn Boogie Trouble's Goodbye For Now Concert
22:00 DJ Dauði

Tuesday August 27 Gamli Gaukurinn | 21:00 | 1,500 ISK

Reykjavík will be vibrant and full of life this Café Rosenberg Bands, beers and ballroom shoes! Just when we got to get so
summer. Numerous events and activities 21:00 1860 excited about the disco sweethearts of Boogie Trouble, they are
English Pub
will be ongoing all around the city. 22:00 Raggi breaking our hearts and fleeing the country. Miss Keyboards goes
Kaffibarinn to London and Mister Guitar moves to Sweden. We are not com-
22:00 DJ Ívar Pétur
Merry merchants will greet you on every KEX Hostel pletely boogieless though, if their recordings have gone according
city street. You can choose to go with 22:00 KEXJazz to plan. The anticipated album should come out by the end of this
Prikið
the flow of the latest fashion trends in 22:00 Sour Tuesdays With Berndsen year. Just grab all your buddies and see them at Gaukurinn. Since
the Lighthouse Village or treat yourself Boogie Trouble will be joined by the bands Bárujárn, Babies and
Wednesday August 28 Bjór anyone whose name starts with a 'B' gets a discounted ticket
to delicacies at the Restaurant Village. Boston price. KN
22:00 Lucky Records Night
Café Rosenberg
Our Summer streets, Laugavegur and 21:00 Árni Heiðars Quartet
Skólavörðustígur are closed to car traffic English Pub
until the 5th of August.
21:00 Danni
Kaffibarinn
24
22:00 Alfons X August

Thursday August 29
Bar 11
23:00 Leiksvið fáranleikans
Boston
22:00 DJ BenSol
Café Rosenberg
21:00 Brother Grass
English Pub
21:00 Ragnar
Harpa
19:30 Seven Countries, One Chord -
I, Culture Orchestra
Harlem
22:00 Plan B / Rhythm Box Social
Reykjavík
Hressó
21:00 Blues Night
Kaffibarinn
22:00 Steindór Jónsson
Loft Hostel
20:30 Ben Salter
Prikið Murdering Eardrums Is Cultural
22:00 DJ KGB Plastic Gods
Gamli Gaukurinn | 22:00 | Price TBA
If your idea of a good cultural night involves sipping tea all prim
and proper over a rerun of Downton Abbey, then this gig is not
for you. This is a concert aimed at all the doom and drone fanatics
residing in Iceland that await to be woken from the slumber of the
banality of every day existence with guttural screams, crazy guitar
showmanship and heavy drums. Also, it is PG’s last show as one of
the band members is leaving Iceland, so cast of your shackles and
party like your life depends on it! TGB

Photo: Guðný Lára Thorarensen

www.midboRgin.iS
 ART
OPENINGS AND ONGOING
August 16 - 29
How to use the listings: Venues
are listed alphabetically by day.
For complete listings and detailed
information on venues visit www.
grapevine.is Send us your listings:
listings@grapevine.is

Opening
All over Reykjavík
August 23
Reykjavík Dance Festival
Spirit of dance takes over the city
for ten days. Three types of tickets
available: Lovers pass 14,900 ISK,
Friends pass 9,900 ISK and First
Date single tickets 2,200 ISK.
Runs until September 1
August 28
LÓKAL
International theatre festival
happening in Reykjavík!
Runs until September 1
Árbær Museum
August 18, 13:00 - 16:00
Rural Traditions Day
The helpful staff at Árbær open air
museum will introduce people to
the old rural traditions of and work
in Iceland. It is possible to assist the
museum workers with the days of
yore house work.
ART67
August 29, 17:00-19:00
Pink Ladies
The Pink Ladies will be painting
Reykjavík pink and will put on an
exhibit in ART67. Enter The Musical Octagon
Runs until August 31
Artíma Gallerí
Remembering Hljómskálinn
August 18, 15:00
Artist Talk on Museumsstück Hljómskálagarður Park | Until August 25 | 14:00-19:00
An installation built as part of the
open-air festival "Undir Berum The eight-sided Hljómskálinn (“Musical hut”) that rests by the
Himni". Reykjavík pond has a long and colourful history. Celebrating its
Kling & Bang
August 17 90th birthday, artist Berglind Jóna Hlynsdóttir and Guðmundur
Ragnar Þórisson Steinn Gunnarsson put together an exhibit where they get Hljóm-
Ragnar opens a solo exhibition skálinn to tell its own story in pictures and recorded sound. The
of new large-scale paintings. The aim is for guests to come away with a strong sense of Hljómská-
exhibit is untitled and admission is
free. linn’s identity in this experimental retelling of the hut. There are
Runs until September 15 special live performances on August 16, 24 and 25. TGB
Þoka
August 17
Longing to be Loved or
Destroyed
Habbý Ósk opens an exhibit on
human behaviour and relationships.
The exhibition consists of
photographs, sculpture and a video
piece where candles are in the
forefront.
Runs until September 15

Ongoing
ART67
Margrét Hasdes Hauksdóttir
Featured artist, Margrét Hasdes
Hauksdottir, exhibits a series of oil
paint landscapes.
Runs through August 31
Bíó Paradís
Cool Cuts - Icelandic Cinema 360° Iceland
with English Subtitles
Between June 14th and August 31st Sagafilms' Iceland Expo Pavillion
Bíó Paradís will screen six Icelandic
films with english subtitles. The films The Old Harbour | Every Day | 10:00-22:00 | 10 Euros
include White Night Wedding, Sigur
Rós’s Heima, Children of Nature, If standing on top of a glacier, scuba diving to the bottom of
Either Way, BackYard and Noi the
Albino. To find out more about these the sea or standing next to an erupting volcano sounds far too
movies check out Bíó Paradís’s extreme for your sensibilities, consider stepping into Sagafilms'
website. Iceland Expo Pavillion, which simulates these experiences with
Runs until August 31 360° movie projection all from the safety of a temperature regu-
The Culture House
Medieval Manuscripts, Eddas, lated building. With five screens to focus on you're guaranteed
and Sagas an excellent view. And the film's score composed by Hilmar Örn
It includes principal medieval Hilmarsson rounds out the experience with surround sound. The
manuscripts, such as Codices Regii
film is shown every half hour. Your virtual adventure awaits! AB
of the Poetic Edda, Prose Edda, law
codices and Christian works, not
forgetting the Icelandic Sagas. centuries. The Einar Jónsson Museum
On permanent view On permanent view The museum contains close to 300
Child of Hope - Youth and Jón The Library Room art works including a beautiful tree-
Sigurðsson The old reading room of the National clad garden adorned with 26 bronze
Exploring the life of Icelandic Library displays books of Icelandic casts of the artist's works is located
national hero Jón Sigurðsson, made cultural history dating from the 16th behind the museum.
especially accessible to children, century to the present day. Works On permanent view
families and school groups. include the oldest published versions Gallerí Ófeigur
On permanent view of the Sagas, Edda Poems and more. UPPÍMÓTI
Millennium - Phase One On permanent view An exhibit by Gugga, two years in
A selection of pieces from the Lightplay the works, she uses oil and canvas to
collection of the National Gallery Dramatic watercolours by Derek Karl explore the magnitude of Icelandic
displaying a variety of works by of Iceland’s ethereal light. waterfalls. Her work is bold and she
Icelandic artists in the last two Runs until August 31 captures the clarity of the unique
 Hverf isgata 4
ART
101 Reykjavík
Iceland ONGOING
+354 537 4007

info@hverf isgalleri.is
www.hverf isgalleri.is
ART
Georg Guðni
ONGOING
Jeanine Cohen – continued –
Guðjón Ketilsson
Kristinn E. Hrafnsson Nordic light.
Guðný Rósa Ingimarsdóttir On permanent view
Represented Artists: Magnús Kjartansson Gallery Sign
Skirt
Harpa Árnadóttir 36-year old Alison Willoughby
Sigtryggur Bjarni Baldvinsson displays a new large-scale
Hildur Bjarnadóttir piece. The photographic work
is a playful inverted take on the
Sigurður Árni Sigurðsson cultural iconography of the British
Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir Kebab Shop and will appear as an
Tumi Magnússon illuminated signage on the exterior
of the gallery itself.
Runs until December 20
Hafnarborg
Eiríkur Smith - Existence
The fourth exhibition in an ongoing
series spanning the wide artistic From The Top, With Passion!
career of Eiríkur Smith. The
exhibition focuses on works from
LÓKAL International Theatre Festival
1968 to 1982.
Runs until August 25 City Centre | August 28 – September 1 | 2,000-9,900 ISK
Hallgrímskirkja
Beating Time When you receive money both from the City of Reykjavík and
A set of translucent photographs by the state of Iceland, you can have all sorts of fun. Like, put up
Jo Yarrington adhered to the four a theatre festival. Like, the sixth time. The city truly lightens up
clock faces of Hallgrímskirkja's Bell
Tower. The photographs were taken as there will be a great deal of performances, which the locals
on Iceland's Outer Ring Road and at LÓKAL describe as epic. Acts hailing from Norway, Canada,
reference Eadward Muybridge's Finland and Iceland (surprise!) will put themselves in the shoes of
sequenced action photos of a
Bertolt Brecht, winners & losers, tiny guy and a morbid cook. KN
conductor's hands, also titled
'Beating Time.'
Runs until September introduction of modernism in books and more.
Hverfisgallerí Icelandic domestic interiors from On permanent view
Guðný Rósa Ingimarsdóttir the 1930s to the 1980s. It will Reykjavík Art Museum - Ásmun-
Drawings by Guðný. feature well-known designs that darsafn
Runs through September 14 have emerged from the modernist Tales From the Vault - Sculpture
i8 Gallery movement of the 20th century and Inspired by Literature
Belief made their way to Iceland. A collection of Ásmundur
Ólafur Elíasson’s exhibit, Belief, is an Runs until October 13 Sveinsson’s sculptures tied together
exploration of natural phenomena The National Gallery by a common literary thread. The
and perception. His work often Sara Riel - Memento Mori exhibit presents key works inspired
combines design, architecture, and This museological comparative by Icelandic folklore, myth, and
science to create thought-provoking study examines the relationship poetry.
work and spaces. between museums and their Runs until December 13
Runs until August 17 depictions of life and death. Reykjavík Art Museum - Kjar-
The University of Iceland Bookstore The Icelandic Phallological Runs until August 25 valsstadir
Museum Treasures Icelandic Art 1900-1950: From
The University bookstore offers a wide selection of books The museum contains a collection During the whole summer three Landscape to Abstract Art
on Iceland, Icelandic novels in many languages and various of more than two hundred and distinct exhibitions will be dedicated An overview of Iceland art
fifteen penises and penile parts across five decades. The exhibit
University of Iceland products. to the collection of the NGI, which
belonging to almost all the land and possesses nearly 10.500 works, is comprised of four elements:
sea mammals that can be found in foreign and Icelandic, dating from Romantic and Radical 1900-1930,
Iceland. the 16th century to the 21st. Under Landscape 1930-1950, The Human
On permanent view the common heading - TREASURES Scale 1930-1950 and New radicalism
Knitting Iceland - 19th and early 20th Icelandic and the beginning of the abstract
Come and knit at Laugavegur 25, painting and drawing 1940–1950.
3rd floor, every Thursday, 14:00 - Runs until August 25 Runs Until September 13
18:00. The National Museum Reykjavík Art Museum - Haf-
On permanent view I Can’t Bring Myself to Retreat narhús
Kunstschlager Kunstschlager This exhibit features thirteen people Erró - Graphic Art, 1949-2009
An Object Lesson expressing their views and feelings For the first time the general public
Exhibit opening of fascinating in pictures and quotes. Some are are able to view Erró´s graphic art
Open weekdays Austrian artist, Mercedes young, others older, but all have in spanning half a century.
BOKSALA.IS from 9 - 17 Muhleisen, that includes among their own way played a part in LGBT Runs until August 13
other elements, “a boneless entity life in Iceland. Interval
longing for objecthood and a Runs until November 25 An olfactory exhibit by Huginn Þór
constipated philosopher leading Icelandic Silverwork Arason and Andrea Maack, the
The University of Iceland Student Bar herself into a mental odyssey.” Various silver items that have two have collaborated to create a
Opens August 3 been made in Iceland over the perfume intended to embody the
Latin Dance Studio, Faxafen 12 smell of the museum of the future.

The Student Cellar

last 150 years. A Part-Time Silver
Guided Practica Smith, a separate exhibition, will Runs until September 1
Argentine tango, Sundays from run simultaneously and display a All State
17:30-19:30. Register by phone 821 silversmith’s workshop from the turn A sound installation in the elevator
cheap food, brunch, excellent bar, coffee, 6929 or email tangoadventure@ of the century. of Hafnarhús. Theresa Himmer’s “All
cakes & entertainment gmail.com, 500 ISK for students, 800
ISK for others. Six- week courses are
Runs until December 31
Sigfús Eymundsson Photography
State” uses old elevator tracks to
create a six-hour long mechanical
STUDENTAKJALLARINN.IS also available. A pioneer of Icelandic photography, soundtrack of the elevator
On permanent view an exhibit that taps into the cultural experience.
Living Art Museum heritage of Iceland. Runs until September 1
The 6th Volume Runs until January 2014 The Sound of a Bugle in a
An exhibit created and compiled by The Making of a Nation - Shoebox
Katrín Inga Jónsdóttir Hjördísardóttir Heritage and History in Iceland A retrospective of performance
Hirt. The 6th Volume presents works This exhibition is intended to provide work by Magnús Pálsson, an avant-
and writings chosen by Katrín. She insight into the history of the garde artist inspired by a love of and
personally sculpted several hundred Icelandic nation from the Settlement participation in Icelandic theatre.
“gratitude sculptures,” and offered to the present day. The exhibit develops over a week
them to artists, writers, and theorists On permanent view of live performances, including a
in the field of visual arts in exchange The Old Harbour premiered work by Magnús himself.
for participation in her exhibit. Iceland Expo Pavillion Runs until September 30
facebook.com/Studentakjallarinn Runs until August 25 Every day from 10:00 to 22:00, Reykjavík City Library
UNIVERSITY OF ICELAND Mokka Kaffi Sagafilms projects a film of Icelandic Myndarlegt
Sæmundargötu 4 Wall Carpets scenery inside their Iceland Expo Helga Lára Haraldsdóttir's new
Reykjavík, IS - tel: 570 0890 Amy Erla Zoega exhibits a series of Pavillion which provides a unique exhibition Myndarlegt (Handsome)
pieces inspired by tapestries. 360 degree movie experience. showcases texts and photos that
Runs until September 5 On permanent view   have been photoshopped. The
Museum of Design and Applied Reykjavík City Library show is meant to inspire people of
Art The collection centers around new all ages to think about concept art,
Chance Encounters - Toward Nordic literature, both fiction and especially with regards to every day
Open every day from 11 to 23
except Thursday and Friday Modernity In Iceland Design nonfiction. The library lends out phenomena and our language.
from 11 to 01 The exhibit focuses on the novels, academic publications, audio Runs until August 20
IN YOUR
POCKET
WHAT'S
INSIDE Reykjavík Map Happy Hour Guide DIY Celebrity Walk Best Of Reykjavík Practical Info
Reykjavík & Surrounding Area August 16 - 29 Keep it in your pocket

Two Weeks
The Grapevine picks the events, places and what to experience in the next two weeks

SOUVENIR SHOP
Weekdays The Secret Geothermal Garden

High-Tech Tomatoes
August 29 OH BROTHER Brother Grass has
the end of summer blues, as it is their last
SHOP OF T HE Y E A R 2012
A U G U S T
concert for a while. But they are not going
to cry about it as they are too busy having
crazy times on stage at Café Rosenberg
with their blues and folk tunes. 2,000 ISK.

August 18 POETIC LICENSE What do the

American poets Walt Whitman and Emily
Dickinson have in common with the
Swedish duo Madeleine Östlund and
Alf Häggkvist? "Pictures, Dreams"
Improvisational Concert at the Nordic
House consists of 12 Songs inspired by
three poets. Starts at 15:00, free with Jazz
Festival Pass or 1,000 ISK.

August 29 HARLEM SHAKE At 22:00 Harlem's

Rhythm Box Social will feature a series
of indie concerts with bands inspired by
the 80s NYC scene. See Captain Fufanu,
AMFJ, Two Step Horror and pál vetika's
version of the Harlem Shake.
August 22 FUCK IT WE'LL DO IT LIVE The Pollock
Brothers will be putting on a hell of a
show at Dillon, and recording it for a future
album! How sweet is that? Be a part of the
making of. The gig starts at 22:00 and there
is free entry!

Friðheimar Greenhouse Café & Shop

Reykholt in Bláskógabyggð

12:00 - 14:00 16
A U G U S T
Hip To The Groove

Football Fundraiser
Walking inside Friðheimar Greenhouse is like
entering a high-tech secret garden complete
with geothermal pipes, imported bees and
tropical flowers. Prepare to shed some layers
in the 25°C greenhouse heat. Horticulturist
Helena Hermundardóttir and her family own
two renovated greenhouses dating back to
the 1940s. Drop-in visitors are welcome to
enjoy tomato food and drink (tomato shots
anyone?) in their bright cafe and purchase
"food souvenirs" from their little shop until
the end of the month. Tour groups are wel-
come all year round. AB
Photo: Megan Blaine

August 17 LIGHT THE CANDLES Go to the

gallery opening of Habbý Ósk's candle
based exhibit Longing To Be Loved Or Bjúddarinn 2013
Destroyed at Þoka 16:00-18:00. This mood Harlem 22:00
lighting could be perfect for a romantic Bjúddarinn is a fundraising event for the
date, just make sure you don't get burned! amateur football team Mjöðm (“Hip”) that
is filled with Icelandic band members. The The viking:info Ísafjördur

August 20-25 GIRL POWER! KÍTÓN stands for line-up includes DJ Margeir and Högni
Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík
Women in Music in Iceland (Konur í Tónlist á from Hjaltalín, Kippi Kaninus, Markús & the Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík
Akureyri
Íslandi) and they are on a mini-tour in West Diversion Sessions, and Icelandic stand- Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri
and North Iceland. Ladies night out! up group Mið-Ísland. There are also more Adalstræti 27 · Ísafjördur Reykjavík
events, including a painting auction, and e:info@the viking
August 18 PEACE OUT Download an official surprise guests. So don’t miss the opportu- www.theviking.is TAX FREE

meditation MP3 and join the Global Peace nity to support these musical football guys
Operation in a Synchronized Peace and let them keep smiling and kicking balls!
Transmission to Egypt at 15:00. TGB
Photo: Matthias Arni
 MAP
1 2 3 4 5

The Official Tourist

Information Center
Aðalstræti 2 101 Reykjavík
LÓÐ
Tel. 590 1500 www.visitreykjavik.is IS
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biggest ever celebrity scoop, like, if they’ve changed since last year. of Ryan Gosling’s adventures This is where Ryan Gosling was
ever, happened. The one and only EG
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before Katie decided to divorce Mr. you and your stalking skills, if you This scoop is brought to you by the Damn it, those motherfuckers are
NAUTHÓ

Useful numbers Iceland Excursions – Grayline Iceland, tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is bars can stay open until 01:00 on weekdays
LSVE

Emergency number: 112 Hafnarstræti 20, tel: 540 1313 Eagle Air, Hótel Loftleiðir, tel: 562-4200 and 04:30 on weekends.
GUR

The Icelandic Travel Market, Bankastræti Public transport Shops: Mon.–Fri. 10:00–18:00, Sat.
Medical help: 1770
2, tel: 522 4979 10:00–16:00, Sun. closed. The shopping cen-
Dental emergency: 575 0505 The only public transport available in Reykjavík
ÞTrip,
OR Laugavegur 54, tel: 433 8747 tres Kringlan and Smáralind as well as most
Information: 118 RA
GA
is the bus. Most buses run every 20–30
Pharmacies
TA supermarkets and tourist shops have longer
minutes (the wait may be longer on weekends)
Taxi: Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir: 588 5522 Reykjavík
and the price per fare is 350 ISK for adults and
opening hours.
Lyf og heilsa, Egilsgata 3, tel: 563 1020
BSR: 561 0000 Domestic
children. Multiple day passes are available for Swimming pools: Weekdays 06:30–22:00
Tax Free Refund Lyfja, Laugavegur 16, tel: 552 4045 and Airport Taxi and weekends 09:00–17:00, although each
Lágmúla 5, tel: 533-2300 purchase at select locations. Complete route
Iceland Refund, Aðalstræti 2, tel: 564 6400 map available at: www.bus.is. Tel: 540 2700. pool varies plus or minus a few hours.
Coach terminal
Tourist information Buses run from 07:00–24:00 on weekdays and Banks in the centre are open Mon.-Fri.
BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, 10:00–24:00 on weekends. Main terminals are: 09:00-16:00.
Arctic Adventures, Laugavegur 11,
tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is Hlemmur and Lækjartorg Post Offices
tel: 562 7000
Domestic airlines Opening Hours Post offices are located around the city. The
City Centre, Aðalstræti 2, tel: 590 1550
C Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, Bars and clubs: According to regulations, downtown post office is at Pósthússtræti 3–5,

EIN
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SN
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LIVE MUSIC EVERY NIGHT BA Hótel Loftleiðir

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All the events and all the action

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Save Water, Drink Beer
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IN
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on 5 Big HD Screens.
NE
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Icelandic beer on draft. AUSTURSTRÆTI 12 • 101 REYKJAVÍK • ENSKIBARINN@ENSKIBARINN.IS

D
ME
 6 7 8 9
Venue Finder
New In Town Music & Entertainment
Amsterdam Harlem
Hafnarstræti 5 | D3 Tryggvagata 22 | D3
Austur Hressó
Austurstræti 7 | E3 Austurstræti 20 | E4
B5 Kaffi Zimsen
Bankastræti 5 | E4 Hafnarstræti 18 | D4

See Reykjavík Bar 11

Hverfisgötu 18 | E5
Bjarni Fel
Kaffibarinn
Bergstraðastræti 1 | E5
Kaldi Bar / Café

rough The Eyes

Austurstræti 20 | E4 Laugavegur 20b | E5
Sigurjón
Bíó Paradís Kofi Tómasar Frænda
Hverfisgata 54 | F6 Laugavegur 2 | E5
Art
Boston Loft Hostel
Museum

OL LY W OO D Tourists
Laugavegur 28b | F6 Bankastræti 7 | E5
18 Gangleri Outfitters Bunk Mánabar
Laugavegur 28 | E5 Hverfisgata 20 | E5
Hverfisgata 82
Celtic Cross Ölsmiðjan
The power duo Vaidas & Óskar started out as Hverfisgata 26 | E5 Lækjargata 10 | E4
party buddies until they discovered their joint Den Danske Kro Ölstofan S
Photos by: Georges Biard, MTV Movie Awards Press passion toward outdoor living. This passion Ingólfsstræti 3 | E4 Vegamótastígur | E5 KL
grew to become Gangleri Outfitters, the
Room, GAS, Jay Tamboli, Josh Jensen, Barbara Kinney, outdoor equipment shop and rental in the city
Dillon
Laugavegur 30 | F6
Prikið
Bankastræti | E4
Jiyang Chen centre, which opened its doors with a bang Dolly Reykjavík Beats
on June 17. They rent out and sell everything Hafnarstræti 4 | D3 Hverfisgata 46| E5
that an unequipped traveller might need in H A FNA R STR ÆTI 5 &
Dubliner Rósenberg S KÓL AVÖR ÐU S T ÍG U R 10
Iceland: tents, hiking boots, sleeping bags, Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D3 Klapparstígur 25 | E5 KIR
cooking gear, fishing sets... you name it! Even KJ
US
English Pub Stofan Café A
if you have all you need for your adventure, it Austurstræti 12 | E3 Ingólfstorg | D3
H ND
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is worth to stop by and ask for tips, as these
Gamli Gaukurinn Thorvaldsen
guys are really helpful. Tryggvagata 22 | D3 Austurstræti 8 | D3
Glaumbar Vegamót

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Mon - Fri 12 - 18 / Sat

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13–17 and by appoint- Museum ÚLI

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ment. www.i8.is Grandagarður 8 | B2

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Á

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Reykjavík Museum of
worse things to have around. dog. Being the trendsetter he is, he
Kjarvalsstaðir peaceful walk on Reykjavík’s west Laugavegur 116 | F8
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www.phallus.is Photography
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didn’t go for theNational
traditional “eina side in 2012. The actor gazed into Tryggvagata 16 | D3
6 Bill Clinton Museum Kirsuberjatréð
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með öllu” (one with everything), the distance and saw how the Vesturgata 4 | C2
Weekdays 12–19 / Sat–
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Bæjarins Beztu, Hafnarstræti 17 Sun 13–17

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instead ordering a simple hot dog worldLÍ Ð
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Hverfisgata 42 | E6
that. One of the best hot dog 2004 this has
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stands in Europe got its greatest “Steaming Clinton.”
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Mon-Sat from 15-18

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open Mon.–Fri. 09:00–18:00. Stamps are Ground Zero, FrakkastígurBA8, RMnear Thursday from 06:30–22:00, Friday from Hafnarstræti 16 | D4
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also sold at bookstores, gas stations, tour- Laugavegur 45 06:30–20:00, Saturday from 08:00–16:00, Mon-Fri 10-16
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ist shops and some grocery stores. The Reykjavík City Library, Tryggvagata 15 and Sunday from 10:00–18:00.
MIK
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Living Art Museum www.sim.is
ÐA

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MÁ R AU
VAH Skúlagata 28 | E7
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Public phones The National and University LLibrary,

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Tue-Sun 12-17
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STIG Klapparstígur 33 | E5
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There aren’t many public payphones in the Public toilets in the centre can ÍÐbe found www.nylo.is
Mon-Fri 10-18
HLÍÐ

city centre. The tourist information centre DR Á

Tourist Information Centre,PUH Aðalstræti 2 inside the green poster covered tow- Mokka Kaffi Sat 12-16
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at Aðalstræti 2, City Hall, Kolaportið, ers located, for example, at Hlemmur,
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Icelandic Travel Market, Bankastræti 2 Skólavörðustígur 3A | E5 www.sparkdesign-

entrance at Landsbankinn and in Lækjar- Ingólfstortorg, by Hallgrímskirkja, by www.mokka.is space.com
STA

Reykjavík Backpackers,
BLÖ
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Laugavegur 28 GR Æ
gata. Prepaid international phone cards NAH
Reykjavík Art Museum, Lækjargata and by
Swimming Pools LÍÐ
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are recommended for int’l callers. Eymundsson on Skólavörðustígur. Toilets of Iceland Gallery
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VEG can also be found inside the Reykjavík Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | F4 Hverfisgata 37 | E6 L AB
L AR
Internet Access R AU
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FLU Reykjavík. The one in 101 Reykjavík, City Hall and the Reykjavík Library. Tue–Sun 11–17 Open daily 09-02 SMÚ
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Most cafés offer free wireless internet Sundhöll Reykjavíkur, is an indoor one, www.listasafn.is www.windandweather.is
access. Computers with internet connec- located at Barónsstígur. That pool features HAM Kringlan
The National Museum ÞOKA
R AHL
tions are available to use at: a nice sunbathing area and some outdoor ÍÐ Suðurgata 41 | G2Shopping
Laugavegur 25 | E5
Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11 hot tubs. Opening hours: Monday to Open daily 10–17
Mall
HÁ AHLÍÐ

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 Skoli.eu
Icelandic for foreigners
All classes start in September Best Of Reykjavík
in g clas Every year around the beginning of July, we make a BEST OF REYKJAVÍK ISSUE celebrating some
rn s multi- of what makes Reykjavík-life worthwhile, posting some good entries into a hopefully neverending
• Mo

es
4 weeks discussion. The primary purpose of BEST OF REYKJAVÍK is celebration! It’s about big-upping stuff,
lingual giving mad props to it and patting it on the shoulder. The following are some nice tips we pulled
Mon. - Thu.
•
theater from BEST OF REYKJAVÍK 2013 which you can read in full at www.grapevine.is
09:30 - 12:15
Level 1 - 6
d ay class
id

es
•M
4 weeks
Tal og

•
Mon. - Thu.
orðaforði 13:00 - 16:00
8 vikur Level 1 - 3
BEST COFFEE TO-GO: BEST PLACE TO GO FOR A BEST RECORD STORE:
LITLI BÓNDABÆRINN JOG:ÆGISSÍÐA LUCKY RECORDS
in g class
en e
multi-
• Ev

s•

6 weeks
Mon. Tue. Thu.
lingual
17:30 - 19:55 choir
Level 1 - 6 se
clas s •
g
• Evenin

6 weeks This take-away joint on Laugavegur Once again we’ve voted Ægissí›a Now in its huge new digs on
is really one of the most delight- best place to go for a jog. With the Rau›arástígur, Lucky Records is like-
Mon. Tue. Thu. ful places to pop into on any daily ocean on one side and beautiful hous- ly to win BEST RECORD STORE for
Málfræði 20:00 - 22:15 stroll. They brew up some real mean es on the other, this coastal path in 107 all perpetuity. It’s not just the great
coffees, making a point to use only Reykjavík is hard to beat. If you’re not selection of records that makes Lucky
og orðaforði Level 1 - 3 the highest quality beans, and if you super hardcore about your workout, the best, it’s also the store’s personal-
8 vikur go there a few times they remember
your order. It also helps that their
you can stop along the way to admire
the old fishing station there and read
ity, which has only gotten better since
the move. Many of us are devoted
owner, David, is one of the most the information placards about the customers and we are so proud to see
charming individuals who changes area and its history. And, like we said them doing great things. Luck really is
the experience of grabbing your last year, if you’re feeling really good, on their side.
morning java into a complete laugh- you can run all the way to Nauthólsvík
riot. David has also singlehandedly and take a dip in the hot tub.
introduced savoury pastries into the
snacking landscape, so make sure to
Borgartún 1 • 105 Reykjavík • Tel. 551 7700 • 821 7163 grab a veggie-sausage roll or lamb
info@thetincanfactory.eu • www.thetincanfactory.eu pasties if you can—they are in a
league of their own!

Located at Laugavegur 41 Located in Ægissí›a Located at Rau›arárstígur 10

A GUIDE
Iða Zimsen
Every Day from 19:00 to 22:00.
All bottled beers 550 ISK.

THAT FUCKS Kaffi Kompaníið

Thursday to Sunday from 16:00 to 18:00.

YOU UP
2 for 1 beer 850 ISK, wine 700 ISK.
Kaffi Zimsen
Every day from 17:00 to 21:00. Beer 550 ISK.
Kaldibar
A list of every Every day from 17:00 to 20:00.
2 for 1 on beer and wine.
Happy Hour in Kiki Queer Bar
101 Reykjavík Thursdays from 20:00 to 22:00.
Beer 450 ISK, wine 600 ISK.
Kolabrautin
101 Hótel Every day from 17:00 to 19:00.
Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer 475 ISK, Beer 450 ISK, Wine 700 ISK, Cocktails from
wine 645 ISK, cocktails from 1000 ISK. 1000 ISK, Champagne glass 1500 ISK.
Austur Lebowski Bar
Thursday to Saturday from 20:00 to 00:00 Every day from 16:00 to 19:00.
Beer 550 ISK and wine 550 ISK. 2 for 1 beer 900 ISK and wine for 1100 ISK.
B5 Loft Hostel Bar
Every day from 17:00 to 22:00. Every day from 16:00 to 20:00.
Beer 550 ISK, cider 700 ISK, wine 550 ISK. Beer 500 ISK, cider 500 ISK, wine 700 ISK.
Bjarni Fel Micro Bar
Monday to Friday from 21:00 to 23:00. Every day from 17:00 to 19:00.
2 for 1 on all tap drinks, Beer for 445 ISK. Draught Beer 500 ISK.
Boston
Every day from 16:00 to 20:00, Download the FREE Miðgarður Bistro bar
Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. All drinks half
Beer 500 ISK, Wine 500 ISK.
Bunk Bar
Grapevine Appy price, Beer 500 ISK, Wine 600 ISK.
Nora Magasin
Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Hour app! Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Viking Beer for
Wine 700 ISK, Beer 2 for 1 900 ISK. 500 ISK, House Wine for 600 ISK.
Celtic Cross
Every happy hour in Prikið
Every day from 17:00 to 20:00.
2 for 1 on Gull and Polar for 900 ISK.
town in your pocket. Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 20:00. 2 for 1
Viking 750 ISK, Viking Classic 850 ISK.
Den Danske Kro Available in the App Roadhouse
Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. All Draght Beer
950 ISK and wine for 900 ISK. store and on the Friday and Saturday 22:00 - 23:00.
2 for 1 Beer 895 ISK, Wine 895 ISK.
Dillon
Every day from 16:00 to 20:00.
Android Market. SKY Bar & Lounge
Every day from 17:00 to 19:00, Beer 500 ISK,
2 for 1 Beer 850 ISK. Wine 800 ISK.
Dolly Hilton Hotel Bar Slippbarinn
Tuesday to Saturday from 17:00 to 20:00. Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Every day from 16:00 to 18:00. Beer 500 ISK,
Beer 500 ISK and wine 500 ISK. All drinks half price. Wine 500 ISK, selected coctails 950 ISK.
Dubliner Hótel 1919 Stofan
Every day from 16:00 to 20:00. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. 2 for 1 beer Every day from 17:00 to 20:00.
2 for 1 beer Tuborg 1000 ISK. 1000 ISK, white wine 1590 ISK, Red wine Beer 650 ISK and Wine 800 ISK.
1290 ISK, Cocktail of the Day 2190 ISK.
Faktorý Tapashúsið
Monday to Friday from 17:00 to 00:00. Hótel Holt Gallery Bar Every day from 16:00 to 18:00.
Gull and Tuborg beer 500 ISK. Every day from 16:00 to 19:00. Beer 550 ISK, All beer and wine half price.
Wine 695 ISK, Cocktail of the Week 950 ISK.
Glaumbar Uppsalir - Bar & Café
Every day from 21:00 to closing. Beer 390 ISK. Hótel Natura Every day from 17:00 to 19:00.
Every day from 16:00 to 18:00. 2 for 1 on all drinks except cognac.
Harlem
HAll drinks half price.
Every day from 17:00 to 22:00. Þingholtsbar
Beer 550 ISK, wine 700 ISK. Hótel Plaza Bar Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer 500 ISK.
Every day from 17:00 to 19:00. Beer 500 ISK.
 ART
ONGOING
– continued –

Reykjavík City Museum

Reykjavík 871 +/- 2: The
Settlement Exhibition
Archaeological findings from ruins
of one of the first houses in Iceland
and other excavations in the city
centre, open daily 10:00-17:00, 1.100
ISK per adult, 650 ISK per person in
groups (10+) and free for children 18
and under.
On permanent view
Reykjavík Maritime Museum Kópavogur
From Poverty to Abundance Art Museum-
Photos documenting Icelandic Consult The Manual
Gerðarsafn
fishermen at the turn of the 20th Manual For A Landscape Hamraborg 4, Kópavogur
century.
On permanent view Tel. +354 570 0440
The History of Sailing SÍM Gallery | Until August 28 | 17:00 - 19:00 | Free Open 11–17
Iceland's maritime history and the Closed on Mondays
growth of the Reykjavík Harbour. If there were a manual that told us how to interact with Icelandic nature, www.gerdarsafn.is
On permanent view what would it say? The international artists in residence at SÍM Gal-
The Coast Guard Vessel Óðinn lery answer this question with various manual or hand-made art pieces Works by sculptor
This vessel sailed through all three ranging from found-art displays to tintype portraits. Manuals can both Gerður Helgadóttir
Cod Wars and also served as a simplify the complex and complicate the simple. See how Thais Graciotti
Hönnunarsafn Íslands
rescue ship to over 200 ships. from Brazil, Minna Kurjenluoma from Finland, John Steck Jr. from the US Museum of Design
On permanent view
and Karen Stentaford from Canada interpret human relationships to the and Applied Art
75th Anniversary of the Garðatorg 1, Garðabær
Seaman’s Day Council Icelandic landscape. Hopefully we don't wait to consult this manual until
Tel. +354 512 1525
An exhibit celebrating the 75th the landscape has been broken. AB Open 12–17
anniversary of Seaman’s Day by Closed on Mondays
telling the story of the Day from www.honnunarsafn.is
its first envisionment to current Find all art listings
celebrations.
Runs until November 30 online Hafnarborg Chance Encounters
Towards Modernity in
The Reykjavík Museum of Pho-
listings.grapevine.is The Hafnarfjordur
tography Icelandic Design
Centre of Culture
Horse With No Name - Spessi
Spessi took portrait photographs of and Fine Art
numerous bikers during his travels Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður
and exploration of the biker culture Tel. +354 585 5790
in the United States from 2011 to Open 12–17
2012. Thursdays 12–21
Runs until September 15 Closed on Tuesdays To
www.hafnarborg.is th e Bl
Wild Cats - Sunna Ben ue La
Fragments of the ever-growing goon
photography collection that Sunna Existence Eiríkur Smith
Ben has accumulated from carrying Icelandic realist paintings
her camera with her day and night
for the past seven years.
Runs until September 10
Saga Museum
A Viking Museum that intimately
recreates key moments in Iceland's
history, giving a compelling view
into how Icelanders have lived for
more than a millenium. From the
time of the earliest settlers, history
is brought to life in a unique and
exciting way with life-like figurines.
On permanent view
Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum
De Profundis
A collection of sculptures by Queer Eye For The Icelandic Eye
Sigurjón Ólafsson and the paintings I Can’t Bring Myself to Retreat
of his contemporaries. This group
of artists are known today as
“trailblazers of modernism” in
The National Museum | Until November 25 | 1,200 ISK
Iceland. As the title points out,
This exhibition provides insights into the life and struggles of LGBT peo-
beneath the smooth surface of
the works lies the turbulence and ple in Iceland over the years, as described in their own words at different
anguish of the Cold War tensions. times. They recount the ways in which they learned to face their own
Runs until September 1 feelings, and recall different stages in the campaign for human rights
SÍM Gallery for LGBT people. Each individual has his or her own view of the world.
Manual For A Lanscape Different voices unite in harmony – accompanied by photographs of the
Four international artists in
people who speak. Thirteen people express their views and feelings in
residence interpret human
relationships to Icelandic nature these Snapshots of Queer History. Some are young, others older, but all
through various media. have in their own way played a part in LGBT life in Iceland. TGB
Runs until August 28
Spark Design Space
Anatomy of Letters
Sigriður Rún explores ancient
WE LOVE WHAT WE DO AND DO WHAT WE LOVE
Icelandic letters by imagining www.theicelandichorse.is – Tel: 434 7979
them as organisms with their own
particular anatomies. She has just
received the Art Directors Award of
Europe in the student category, one

#1
of the most distinguished graphic
design awards in the world. on TripAdvisor
Runs until September 30
Wind and Weather Window Gallery for two years
Claudia Hausfeld - A Self Portrait COMMENTS FROM OUR GUESTS:
This exhibit focuses on the character
“Best of the best of Iceland!”
and life of houses. The aim of the
“Never ridden? Experienced? Perfect for both!”
window gallery is to connect art in
the urban setting of Reykjavík with “Beautiful environment, great horses, perfect guide”
the people on the street. “We would come to Iceland for this alone”
Runs until August 30 “Lives up to it’s reputation!”
Volcano House INCLUDED
The exhibition gives a brief overview PHOTOS from the
tour. Pick up - drop
of Iceland’s geological history and off in Reykjavík
volcanic systems, and there are
superb photographs of volcanic
eruptions and other magnificent
aspects of Icelandic nature. A large RIDING
collection of semi-precious rocks
and minerals from around the
country are also on display.
TOURS
On permanent view IN REYKJAVÍK
 OU T SIDE REYKJAVÍK

OUTSIDE
REYKJAVÍK
North Iceland
Akureyri
Akureyri Center for Visual Arts
Anamnesis/SILENCE - Janne Laine &
Stephen Boulter
Ongoing until October 6
Stephen Boulter is a part of the
kitsh movement and Janne Laine
from Finland uses photogravure
techniques. The exhibition opens on
August 17 at 15:00.
Deiglan
On The Border Of Two Worlds Fire & Ice
Ongoing until September 14
Exhibition of artist Frímann Kjerúlf.
Jökulsárlón, Vatnajökull Region
Ketilhúsið August 24, 1,000 ISK, Free For Children Under 12
Stolen Feathers
Ongoing until September 15 Iceland may be known for its ice, but its the fireworks Icelanders just can't
Exhibition of artist Þórdís Alda get enough of and what better place to show them off than in Iceland's
Sigurðardóttir. characteristically icy landscape? For the 13th year Vatnajökull's glacial la-
Flóran goon will glow with 150 candles and thirty minutes of fireworks when fire
Næturbrölt - Sigrún Guðmundsdóttir
meets ice. This collaboration between the Hornafjörður search and rescue
September 30
Exhibition Næturbrölt (Night Stride) association, Jökulsárlón boat trips and the Vatnajökull is a spectacular
is put on by visual artist Sigrún juxtaposition that increasingly attracts thousands of visitors each year. All
Guðmundsdóttir. proceeds go to the Hornafjörður search and rescue association so we can
Græni Hatturin all appreciate Iceland's elements safely. AB
Tilbury
August 16, 22:00
Icelandic indie pop band released their
An eclectic group of photography Hjalteyri
enthusiasts, ÁLFkonur are in the habit Verksmiðjan á Hjalteyri
album “Exorcise” last year that ended of taking photos of everything that The Fixed & The Volatile at Verksmið-
up being one of the best sold albums concerns them. jan
in Iceland in 2012. Municipal Library of Akureyri Runs until August 24, 14:00 -17:00
Björn Thoroddsen Elfbooks The Canadian and Scottish artists
August 22, 21:00 Every week, Monday through Friday combine video, sound and paintings
Björn is a solo guitarist who picked up Exhibition by artist Guðlaugur Arason. at Verksmiðjan. Installation created
the instrument when he was 10 years
by  Richard Ashrowan, Pat Law and
old. Being a bit older now he masters Bárðaldal Nick Kuepfen.
genres from pop to jazz and blues to Kiðagil
rock.
KÍTÓN concert
Camper's Festival Húsavík
August 17 - 18 Gamli Baukur
August 23, 21:00 Camper’s Festival at the guesthouse “Lets Talk Local” Comedy Show
KÍTÓN stands for Women in Music Kiðagil, which is right off the Ring Every day at 15:30
in Iceland (Konur í Tónlist á Íslandi). Road. The weekend festival includes A daily hour-long comedy show
Musicians Hafdís Huld, Védís Hervör, activities for the whole family, such as at 15:30. The show is presented in
Ragga Gröndal and Lára Rúnars tour horseback riding and games. English and takes listeners on an
around Westfjords and the North part
entertaining and informative journey
of Iceland. They combine their musical Dalvík through Húsavík.
backgrounds, which include jazz, folk Byggðasafnið Hvoll á Dalvík KÍTÓN concert
and electronic influences. Tickets are The North In The North August 25
2,000 ISK. June 2 - March 1 2014 Women in Music in Iceland concert.
Retro Stefson An exhibit about Greenland and its See Akureyri listing for full description.
August 29, 22:00 history. There are several artifacts
Retro Stefson makes a stop in from Greenland on display. Ólafsfjörður
Aukureyri. Blueberry Days
Kaffi Ilmur Grenivík August 16 - 18
Visiting the Saddler Grenivíkurgleði Blueberry Days is the 15th annual art
August 20, 21:30 August 16 - 18 and music festival. Events range from
Svava and Bjarni introduce the Grenivíkurgleði is a local family festival 0 to 3,500 ISK. Festival pass is 5,500
audience to the history of Akureyri with something to do for all ages. ISK.
and Icelandic culture through stories,
songs and samples of local delicacies. Hjaltadal Raufarhöfn
Before the show starts, Kaffi Ilmur has Hólar Festival Melrakkaslétta
dinner on offer. Be sure to book seats August 16 - 18 The Sléttuganga Hike
before showing up. The Hólar celebration in Hjaltadal. August 17
Akureyri Botanical Garden Celebrating old traditions, pilgrimage A 27 km guided hike with a diverse
ÁLFkonur (Women’s Photography
walks with a dip of cultural events. and interesting route. Departure 9:00
Club) - LYSTSEMDIR
from Raufarhöfn - No registration
June 28 - September 3

The House at Eyrarbakki

THE HOUSE AT EYRARBAKKI
Árnessýsla folk museum is located in Húsið,
the House, historical home of the Danish
merchants built in 1765. Húsið is one of the
oldest houses in Iceland and a beautiful
monument of Eyrarbakki´s time as the
biggest trading place on the south coast.
Today one can enjoy exhibitions about the
story and culture of the region, famous piano,
shawl made out of human hair and the kings
pot, are among items. Húsið prides itself with
warm and homelike atmosphere.

Opening hours: May 15th - September 15th daily 11.00-18.00 or by an agreement

Tel: +354 483 1504 & +354 483 1082 | husid@husid.com | www.husid.com
 OU T SIDE REYKJAVÍK by the sea
needed.

Sauðárkrókur
and a delicious lobster
Loðskinn
Gæran Music Festival
at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri
August 16 - 17
At the Gæran Music Festival genres
vary from rap to folk and everything in
between. Performers include Tilbury,
Úlfur Úlfur, Valdimar, XXX Rottweiler
Hundar, Kontinuum, Hymnalaya and
Jónas Sigurðsson.

Siglufjörður
Kaffi Rauðka
KÍTÓN concert
August 24
Women in Music in Iceland concert,
see Akureyri listing for full description. The Berry On Top
East Iceland Blueberry Days Festival, All over Ólafsfjörður At the seashore the giant lobster makes

Spör ehf.
August 16 – 18, Events: Free! – 3,500 ISK. Festival pass 5,500 ISK.
Egilsstaðir appointments with mermaids and landlubbers.
Sláturhúsið Have you tasted the plump Icelandic blueberries yet? Now there is more
Icelandic Movie Days than just blueberries to taste, as it is the time for the music and art festival He waves his large claws, attracting those desiring
Ongoing Until August 28
All summer long Sláturhúsið hosts
Blueberry Days of Ólafsfjörður to take place again. Known for his per- to be in the company of starfish and lumpfish.
formances with the local elves known as Sigur Rós, the pagan Hilmar
free showings of must-see Icelandic
movies, every night from Monday - Örn Hilmarsson is one of the stars of the opening concert. And when the
Thursday at 20:00. Saturday night fever kicks in one can enjoy songs by Úr Höndum Blóma,
All over town which have been composed to the poems of Pálmi Örn Guðmundsson. KN
Ormsteiti Photo credit: Guðný Ágústsdóttir
August 9 - 18
A harvest festival with carnival, Mosfellsbær Ísafjörður Reykjavík
song contests, pet beauty pageants Gljúfrasteinn Bræðraborg
and other funky activities that you
won't find inside city perimeters. We
Aftanblik Trio
August 18, 16:00
KÍTÓN concert
August 21
Stokkseyri
hear Lazy Town will also make an Singer Gerður Bolladóttir, cellist Women in Music in Iceland concert,
Eyrarbakki - The Seashore restaurant
appearance! Victoria Tarevskaia and pianist Katalin see Akureyri listing for full description.
Lorincz. > Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík
Seyðisfjörður Jane Austen Concert Patreksfjörður
Skaftafell Center for Visual Art August 25, 16:00 Sjóræningjahúsið
Bananas Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri, Iceland · Tel. +354 483 1550
Concert based on the work of KÍTÓN concert
June 17 - August 26 Jane Austen. Soprano Þórunn Elín August 20 Fax. +354 483 1545 · info@fjorubordid.is · www.fjorubordid.is
In this evolving exhibit, Danish Pétursdóttir, mezzosoprano Lilja Women in Music in Iceland concert,
artists group A Kassen explores the Summer opening hours: Mon - Sun 12:00 to 22:00
Dögg Gunnarsdóttir, and pianist Daði see Aukureyri for full description.
connection between Icelandic nature, Sverrisson
bananas and aluminium, as the artists Stykkishólmur
in residence at Skaftfell from June Reykholt Vatnasafnið / Library of Water
through July. “Tvær úr Tungunum” Water, Selected
August 17 On permanent display
South Iceland This event’s name means “two of ‘Water, Selected’ is an ongoing
tongues” and involves various activities exhibition with twenty four columns
Hafnarfjörður in Reykholt/Aratunga. filled with glacier water from all over
Hafnarborg the country.
Existence - Eiríkur Smith Vatnajokull To Place
June 29 - August 25 Jökulsárlón On permanent display
This exhibition of Eiríkur Smith’s Fireworks Show 'To Place' is an audio exhibit offering
oil paintings, watercolours and August 24 insight into the Icelandic psyche,
drawings from 1968-1982 deals with This 13th annual fireworks show at where you can listen to recordings of
metaphysical questions of existence Jokulsarlon in the Vatnajokull Region, people talking about the weather.
and reality. known for its icebergs, creates a Danish Days Festival
unique colour experience. August 16 - 18
Hella This annual festival celebrates
Harvest Family Festival Westman Islands Stykkishólmur’s history as a Danish
August 17 Pompei of the North trading post.
This family festival has something for On permanent display
all ages. Excavation project at the site of the Súðavík
1973 volcanic eruption on the island of Melrakkasetrið
Hveragerði Heimaey. KÍTÓN concert
LÁ Art August 22
The Landscape of Time
June 9 - September 15
West Iceland Women in Music in Iceland concert,
see Akureyri listing for full description.
The exhibition showcases two Borgarnes
Icelanders Ásgrímur Jónsson and The Icelandic Settlement Centre
Arngunnur Ýr, artists from very The Settlement Exhibition
different eras, and explores how they On permanent display
saw the world differently.

B
A thirty minute-long multi-media
Blossoming Days exhibit that provides insight into the
August 16 - 18 settlement of Iceland, from the first

A
This culture and family festival is an man to step foot on the island, to
annual event in “Blossoming Town” the establishment of the world’s first

N
of Hveragerði, known for its health- parliament, Þingvellir. Admission is
centric culture and artistic community. 2,400 ISK.

A
The Egils Saga Exhibition
Keflavík On permanent display
Reykjanes Art Museum Located in the stone-walled basement

N
"Við Geigvænan Mar" of the Centre, this exhibit leads visitors
Ongoing Until August 18 through the colourful saga of Egill

A
A collection of art drawing inspiration Skallagrímssn, one of Iceland’s first
from the harsh nature found around settlers and greatest heroes.
the Reykjanes peninsula.
Pabbi Minn Er Róinn
All summer
A part of the museum’s boat collection,
Galtarviti
Lighthouse S
Ragnar Kjartansson
featuring more than 20 boats and
accessories.
Open all summer
Galtarviti in collaboration with Slíjm sf.
A Kassen (DK)
Brúðir Konu Meyja
All summer
invites people to view an exhibit born
from Ragnar Kjartansson’s residency
17.06 - 26.08 2013
A collection of dolls wearing an at Galtarviti. Getting to the lighthouse MAIN EXHIBITION SPACE
assortment of outfits, including the can be tricky, but their website offers SKAFTFELL - CENTER FOR VISUAL ART
traditional Icelandic national costume. a lot of good suggestions www.
galtarviti.org. Open daily, admission free
www.skaftfell.is
 F D
For your mind, body and soul

We
d o n ´ t sell whale mea
t

Restaurants that have this logo promise not to sell

whale meat. We kindly ask you to choose
A Fresh Squeeze
a whale friendly restaurant and to recommend
others to do the same. Lemon would have to be the fruit baskets 990/790 ISK for a mug/teacup-sized
lined up on the counter, including serving is pretty steep.
Laugavegur 24, 101 Reykjavík. one filled with Pink Lady apples, my Our sandwiches were ready
Whaling is cruel and unnecessary Opening hours: Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00, crunchy favourite.
(Fun fact: Pink Ladies mature on
shortly after we were seated, in pa-
per and plastic packaging that must
Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00
Information about whale friendly restaurants can be found at the tree for 200 days before picking. have been scientifically designed to
www.icewhale.is What We Think For more arguably useless infor- be hard to open. Bring an engineer
A fast, fresh pick-me-up mation, check out the walls of this to help you unwrap it, because you’ll
Flavour: otherwise inviting establishment). only end up getting frustrated and
Crunchy, fruity, juicy The menu is relatively simple: tearing the packaging half to bits.
sandwiches to eat and fresh-pressed Despite technical difficulties, the
Ambiance:
juice or skyr-based smoothies to sandwiches are reward enough: a
Bright and busy as a bee
INTERNATIONAL FUND FOR ANIMAL WELFARE drink. Early birds can also opt for mass of juicy ingredients squeezed
Service: oatmeal porridge or yoghurt. between two slices of crunchy grilled
Can’t complain Their most popular sandwich is bread. The Chango was nutty and
Price for 2 (with drinks): the Chickencado (chicken, avocado, spicy and the Chickencado just as
1890/1490 ISK combo whole/ tomato, pesto), which sounded pretty tasty, with that sumptuous mushy
half sandwich with large/small good to me. My lunch date ordered texture only a ripe avocado can
juice the Chango (chicken, mango, peanut produce. The finishing touch was a
sauce, chilli), but only because it was dusting of coarse sea salt that added
the only sandwich that didn’t con- just the right amount of oomph.
tain pesto. To drink, I decided to try Highly recommended as a light
a Honey Bunny (passion fruit, pine- meal or snack.
apple, orange) while my date went As for the ginger cappuccino, I
for a small Indian Flirt smoothie can happily announce that Lemon
You need five servings of fruit and (Vanilla-flavoured skyr, banana, has succeeded where others have
vegetables a day; why not start with cinnamon, apple). Then, before I failed. Maybe I’ve had too many bad
a lemon? Mix in an avocado, apples could stop myself, I ordered a ginger experiences with weirdly flavoured
and ginger and you’re in for some cappuccino out of sheer curiosity. coffee (I will never again be tempted
Good Times—one of Lemon’s Our juice and smoothie were to try gingerbread or pumpkin
sweetly refreshing juice drinks (and, pressed and mixed before our eyes flavoured coffee and neither should
incidentally, the only one that actu- and arrived in what seemed like sec- you), but I was caught completely off
ally contains a lemon). onds. Mine was zesty and refresh- guard by this totally drinkable com-
Forget hamburgers and greasy ing; my sister’s sweet and slightly bination! Neither too bland nor too
fries—this is a terrific spot to set exotic. Be warned: portions are quite overbearing, I might even order it
yourself right after a hard night’s smaller than the astronomical sizes again the next time I stop by—prob-
drinking. Step aboard the fruit we first-world consumers are used ably sooner than later.
express and order your meal at the to. However, this has got to be a step
juice bar, which coincidentally looks in the right direction in terms of
a bit like a metro station with its health and waste-management—I
white-tiled pillars and industrial can’t imagine that anyone would re-
lamps. But the distinguishing factor ally want a gallon of carrot juice any- PATRICIA ÞORMAR
bedroomcommunity.net way. The only downside is the price: NANNA DÍS

Ban Thai the finest Thai restaurant in Iceland

www.banthai.is

the best thai food

2009, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013
1/10 Best Restaurants In Iceland
Best Goddamn Restaurant 2011

Tel : 692-0564
Laugavegur 130, ofan við Hlemm
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Also Recommend..... y u m m i y u m m i Tel: 588-2121 H v e r f i s g a t a 123, 105 Rvk.
 The Reykjavík Grapevine

No Reservations: Hipster Casual Dining

shorts and T-shirts. As the place does colourful and vibrant. The tuskfish
Nora Magasin not take reservations, it was clear from was perfectly cooked, flaky on the
Pósthússtræti 9 the start that the service here would be inside while keeping its shape—as it
101 Reykjavík laid-back but friendly, and the hipster should—with a smear of fresh basil
Opening hours: devil was in the details: the cocktails pesto on top. It was served on a small
Mon - Thu: 11:30 am - 1:00 am were ushered out in charming, glass bed of green salad and topped with
Fri - Sat: 11:30 am - 3:00 am jars. Keeping good tempo on food, strips of pickled red beets and fresh-
Sun: 11:30 am - 1:00 am the staff did perhaps fall a bit behind picked butter fried potatoes, onions
on drinks, but then again, it was very, and carrots.
What We Think: very busy. The Szechuan duck breast was
Hipsteresque features, good The appetizers and small tapas served on a hot plate, which meant
prices, very modern, very positive. courses were obviously quite popular, that it continued to cook tableside.
Flavour: as most guests were always snacking This presented a problem. Although
French-Asian fusion, bistro, tapas/ on something while drinking from very delicious, the duck was perfectly
mezze. their jars. And understandably so: cooked when it arrived, crisp skin
these small dishes are well-presented, yet pink on the inside, but dry and
Ambiance:
most of them easy to eat with your overcooked at the latter stages. It was
Easy going, laid back. Intoxication hands, and also very fairly priced— served with coarsely mashed potatoes
above average (which can be seen which is true of the whole menu. The on a bed of red peppers (a peculiar
as positive/negative). cuisine at Nora consists of some kind choice) alongside dipping sauce made
Service: of French-Asian fusion, not surpris- out of soy, sesame oil, orange zest and
Friendly, accommodating. ingly, perhaps, since the head chef, honey (a complementary mix). It was
Akane Monavon, is half-French, half- all-in-all an OK dish, which perhaps
Four course menu for two Japanese. needs some refinement.
(no drinks): 8–10,000 ISK For starters we chose the lobster For dessert we had the chocolate
tempura (1350 ISK) and the ‘Come- lava cake (850 ISK) and the cardamom
on-bert” (950 ISK). The lobster was crème brulée (850 ISK). The lava cake
very well cooked and the addition of had a hint of anise/liquorice taste,
sumac was quite pleasing, though the which was nice. The cake was a bit
dish could have done with a touch heavy though and a bit too ‘wheat-y’
more seasoning of salt. The addition perhaps. The crème brulée was light
Nora Magasin opened earlier this year of a cold salad of veggies including and airy, the sugar-coating crisp like
under the ownership and guidance carrots and corn was perhaps a bit odd glass—as it should be. The cardamom
of celebrity chef Völli Snær from the but not displeasing. The Camembert was a nice touch. Very pleasing.
next-door Borg Restaurant. Unlike cheese was oozing after being set Overall, my companion and I had a
Borg, however, its objective is to offer aflame tableside—very theatrical and very fine evening. Nora is pretty much
a casual bistro atmosphere where impressive (no worries, the fire burns doing what it set out to do. The atmo-
guests can relax, have a drink and a out in a matter of seconds). It was sphere is relaxed, the service is nice
bite to eat. seasoned with rose pepper and served and the drinks are good. Not to men-
My companion and I visited Nora with a delicious crusty baguette and a tion, it is very fairly priced. Nora is es-
on one of those rare, sunny summer berry emulsion. I stress that the bread sentially answering the long-standing
evenings in Reykjavík when it’s warm should not be underestimated, it is the demand for a proper bistro, ‘gastro-
enough (approx. 15 degrees) to sit very key to the success of this dish— pub’ if you will. For a few drinks and
outside. In keeping with the excite- which is hereby recommended to all. a taste of French-Asian fusion without
ment of those evenings, most of the For the main course we ordered needing to declare bankruptcy, Nora
seats outside the restaurant were filled the fish of day (priced humbly at 1750 Magasin comes highly recommended.
when we arrived, either by tourists ISK) and a Szechuan-style duck breast
wearing their Cintamani fleece wear, (3690 ISK). The fish, which was a BJÖRN TEITSSON
or sunburned Icelanders wearing fried tusk, was beautifully presented, AXEL SIGURÐARSON

#109 Dill is a Nordic restaurant with its

focus on Iceland, the pure nature and
all the good things coming from it.

It does not matter if it’s the

ingredients or the old traditions, we
try to hold firmly on to both.

There are not many things that make

us happier than giving life to old
traditions and forgotten ingredients
with modern technique and our creative
mind as a weapon.

Lífið er saltfiskur
Sturlugata 5 · 101 Reykjavík
ÓÐINSTORG 101 REYKJAVÍK ÍSLAND SNAPSBISTRO.IS
Tel. +354 552 15 22 · www.dillrestaurant.is Snapsbistro@snapsbistro.is +354 5116677
 Transfer complete

Now on Laugavegur 17

Laugavegur 17