The Use of Cad Cam For Textile Designs A

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ARTTE Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education

Journal of the Faculty of Technics and Technologies, Trakia University


https://sites.google.com/a/trakia-uni.bg/artte/

THE USE OF CAD/CAM FOR TEXTILE DESIGNS AND FABRICS

Liliana Indrie1, Pablo Diaz-García2, Zlatina Kazlacheva3,


Ignacio Montava2 and Julieta Ilieva3
1
Department of Textiles, Leather and Industrial Management, Faculty of Energy
Engineering and Industrial Management, University of Oradea, Romania
B. St. Delavrancea, no. 4, 410058 Oradea, Romania, e-mail: lindrie@uoradea.ro
2
Department of Textile Engineering, Escuela Politécnica Superior de Alcoy,
Universitat Politècnica de València, Spain
Plaza Ferrándiz y Carbonell s/n, 03801 Alcoy, Spain, e-mail: pdiazga@txp.upv.es
3
Faculty of Technics and Technologies of Yambol, Trakia University, Bulgaria
Graf Ignatiev 38, 8600 Yambol, Bulgaria, e-mail: zlatinka.kazlacheva@trakia-uni.bg

Abstract: The paper illustrates the role of CAD/CAM technology in developing virtual textile design on
the computer screen. First, it was created the shape of the symbol "Flower of Life" from Sacred
Geometry by using the CAD system ASCON Kompas for the design of shapes and the graphic
software Adobe Photoshop for colour combinations. Then, we drew few graphic sketches of garments
on which we applied the textile design “Flower of life”. In order to obtain fabric-manufacturing orders,
the image was processed with a specific design software for fabric: EAT DesignScope Victor. At last,
we converted the design into a fabric by using the weaving machine Smit Textile GS900 Jacquard
Loom.
Keywords: Flower of Life, ASCON Kompas, Adobe Photoshop, Smit Textile GS900 Jacquard
Loom, textile designs, graphic sketches of garments, woven fabrics.

1. INTRODUCTION

Heavily used in textile industry as a designing medium as well as a tool for production,
CAD/CAM is an essential part of the design process, acting not only as a tool to create ideas,
but also making the textile designs /fabric more attractive and competitive to meet the rapidly
changing mood of the consumer for fashionable designs. The creative process is about
creating a drawing of a garment [1-3] deriving versions of it, creating visualizations,
developing, deriving and drawing up patterns, creating patterns, in order to enable the
designer to visualize the design before committing to an actual fabric. The process can
continue by generating realistic simulations of fabrics, which can be then transferred to a
chosen loom for immediate weaving. Woven fabrics [4-6] are highly textured, thus the
software gives the tools to set and display individually the yarn thickness, colour, and warp
and weft density. The colours of patterns depend on the colour of the yarns, their
combinations and the structures on the pattern surface. More recent developments of this
technology have led to digital Jacquard processes, whereby designs created on computers
are fed directly to looms.

2. FROM TEXTILE DESINGNS TO FABRIC

From design to processing, every step in producing the woven fabric is important. There
were three steps required for us to follow, to build an output textile material.
The first step in our task was to generate the textile designs. The fabric we have chosen to

ARTTE Vol. 7, No. 1, 2019 ISSN 1314-8788 (print), ISSN 1314-8796 (online), doi: 10.15547/artte.2019.01.003
24
ARTTE Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education
Journal of the Faculty of Technics and Technologies, Trakia University
https://sites.google.com/a/trakia-uni.bg/artte/

illustrate our final product is a jacquard weave. The jacquard usually combines two or more
basic weaves, with different weaves used for the design and the background. We started by
developing models with geometric structures, according to the market and lifestyle trends,
and then we shaped the pattern by the means of the universal CAD system ASCON
Kompas. Different textile designs were created based on the shape of "Flower of Life"
symbol from Sacred Geometry. The figure was formed for displaying different pattern
formations, adding dimension or colour reinforcement for enhancing the motif of Flower of
Life.
By using the graphic software Adobe Photoshop new designs were created in different colour
combinations in a short time and without any additional efforts.

Figure 1. Textile designs based on Flower of Life

ARTTE Vol. 7, No. 1, 2019 ISSN 1314-8788 (print), ISSN 1314-8796 (online), doi: 10.15547/artte.2019.01.003
25
ARTTE Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education
Journal of the Faculty of Technics and Technologies, Trakia University
https://sites.google.com/a/trakia-uni.bg/artte/

Using the vector tools available in ASCON Kompas we designed the sketch for a dresses, as
shown in figure 2. The software offered us the possibility of increasing or decreasing the size
of the design in the process of drafting the figure in the sketch.

Figure 2. Dress sketch by ASCON Kompas

The second step was fabric designing, in which the image data was transformed into
weaving information for fabric production. In order to obtain fabric-manufacturing orders, the
image has been processed with EAT DesignScope victor. This software provides a variety of
design tools (for preparing the base of the image, cleaning, retouching, drawing from the
beginning, creating different rapports) that are supported by standardized colour databases
and converts imported designs scanned or created by programs of conventional design into
work orders for the jacquard machines of looms [7].
For every colour, it was possible to visualize automatically the result, offering us the
possibility to rectify, make different combinations or proposals. Before being uploaded onto
the platform and translated into a series of instructions for a Jacquard loom, the pattern was
automatically reduced into a limited number of colours and into the correct resolution and
transferred to SMIT Textile GS900 Jacquard Loom [8] for immediate weaving.

ARTTE Vol. 7, No. 1, 2019 ISSN 1314-8788 (print), ISSN 1314-8796 (online), doi: 10.15547/artte.2019.01.003
26
ARTTE Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education
Journal of the Faculty of Technics and Technologies, Trakia University
https://sites.google.com/a/trakia-uni.bg/artte/

Figure 3. Processing the image by EAT DesignScope victor

The width of the loom is 190 cm. The beam is composed by 9.600 threads, with a set of 60
picks/cm in the comb. The count of the warp thread used is polyester 17 TEX, in black
colour. Two different yarns with the same count 23.5 TEX 2c, made of acrylic fibre in different
colours (one green colour and the other one white colour) in relation 1:1, compose the weft.
In order to obtain the complete design, the pattern repeats every 7 cm.

Figure 4. The fabric made by Smit Textile GS900 Jacquard Loom

3. CONCLUSIONS

CAD/CAM technology plays a vital role in textile designing as well as fabric manufacturing.
Possessing flexible, dynamic and versatile techniques, the software offer the benefit of
experimenting with a large number of colours, patterns, textures and sketch backgrounds for
producing an animated design. In our approach, we show how CAD/CAM systems greatly
simplifies the procedures involved both in the production and in processing of jacquard
designs. We emphasize a short selection of the functions that CAD realizes to create designs
colour reduction, elimination of spots out of its area, separation by colours, elimination of
floats, and the possibility of visualizing different composition types of rapport in the same
image. At the same time, CAM weaving system increased the pattern preparation for
weaving as well as the possibility of making larger patterns or greater weave units.

4. REFERENCES

[1] Kazlacheva, Z., Fibonacci tilings in fashion design, Annals of the University of Oradea,
Fascicle of Textiles-Leatherwork, Oradea, Vol. XVII, No. 1, 2016, pp. 77-82.
[2] Ilieva, J., Textile design on the base of the Golden geometry and Bulgarian national
tradition, Annals of the University of Oradea, Fascicle of Textiles-Leatherwork, Oradea,
Vol. XVII, No. 2, 2016, pp. 69-74.

ARTTE Vol. 7, No. 1, 2019 ISSN 1314-8788 (print), ISSN 1314-8796 (online), doi: 10.15547/artte.2019.01.003
27
ARTTE Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education
Journal of the Faculty of Technics and Technologies, Trakia University
https://sites.google.com/a/trakia-uni.bg/artte/

[3] Indrie L, Kazlacheva Z, Ilieva J., Gherghel S., Embroidery-from digital designing to fine
art, Revista Industria Textilă, Vol. 68, No. 5, 2017, pp. 366-369, ISSN 1222–5347.
[4] Alderman S, Mastering Weave Structures; Transforming Ideas into Great Cloth,
Loveland, CO: Interweave Press, 2004.
[5] Castelli, G., Maietta, S., Sigrisi, G., Slaviero, I., M., Reference books of textile
technologies: weaving, Collections Edited by Fondazione ACIMIT, Italia, October 2000.
[6] Goerner, D., Woven structure and design, Wira Technology Group Ltd., 1986.
[7] The DesignScope Company EAT, [Online]. Available:
http://www.designscopecompany.com/.
[8] Indrie L, Diaz-García P., Gherghel, S., Development of Jacquard woven fabrics for home
decor, International Scientific Conference Contemporary Trends and Innovation in the
txtile industry, 18 May 2018, Belgrade, Serbia, pp. 348-351.

ARTTE Vol. 7, No. 1, 2019 ISSN 1314-8788 (print), ISSN 1314-8796 (online), doi: 10.15547/artte.2019.01.003
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