Open-source cleaning and curing station for resin printing

Not finding a suitable station for my Anycubic mono x I decided to make my own.

This station works in the same way as the Wash and Cure from Anycubic or the Mercury
from Elegoo.

Project made by Jeremy Vallet

 Contents
Materials needed: 3

Custom PCB 3
Order the PCB on JLCPCB: 4
PCB soldering 7

Mounting the magnetic elements 7

Top Propeller Bracket Installation 8
Assembly of the rotating platform 9
Installation of the rotating platform magnets 9

Installation of the components in the housing 11

Installation of the Nema 17 motor 11
Installation of the heatsink 13
Remaining components 14

Setting the DC transformer DC 5 volts 15

Wiring 16

Setting the current limit 16

Driver voltage adjustment A4988 17

Adjustment of the motor speed during cleaning 17

Drainer assembly 18

Use of the station 19

Materials needed:
See the file BOM.xlsx if in the project archive.

I specify that most of the links in this file are Aliexpress affiliate links. I made sure to
take the lowest prices. If you want to support the project, order directly through these
links, but if you find cheaper, of course you are free to order elsewhere.

Custom PCB
In order to facilitate the wiring I decided to make myself the printed circuit allowing the
connection between all the different elements of the station as well as the control of the
motor.
The PCB takes 24V and 5V input and allows the control of the stepper motor (using an
Arduino nano board and an A4988 driver), the display of menus on the screen and the
control of the LED panel thanks to the relay.

I put at your disposal the gerber files to allow you to order the manufacturing of this PCB.
This PCB can be ordered on JLCPCB for a price of about 3 € + shipping for 5 boards.

If you want to upgrade the PCB or make changes, all Kicad design files are available in the
project archive.

For people living in France, I still have 4 PCBs that I don't use (the version of these boards is
not the same as the final version, but it's the one I use and it's perfectly functional, it just
needs the soldering of 3 additional cables), so I can send you a PCB by mail for free, you'll
just have to pay the shipping costs.
Order the PCB on JLCPCB:

Go to https://jlcpcb.com/ and click on "Quote now".

Click on "Add gerber file" then select "CleanAndCure_gerber_rev2.rar" available in the

project archive.
A preview of the PCB is displayed, then you can choose its color if you want.
You can then choose the "LeadFree HASL-RoHS" finish and specify the location of the order
number on the PCB (it will be replaced by the JLCJLCJLCJLC located at the Arduino Nano
location)

You can then proceed with the order.

PCB soldering

Solder the female strips to the slots for the driver and the Arduino Nano.
You can use JST connectors for the relay, LCD and encoder.
You can use screw terminals for the fans, 5V and 24V input, as well as the other part of the
relay and the LED panel.

For the stepper, use a male bar.

For the red LED, you can solder an extension cable so that it can be moved to the back of
the case.

Mounting of the magnetic elements

You will need 8 neodymium magnets 20 x 3 mm as well as the two helices.

These magnets must be glued with super glue. To ensure a good adhesion between the
plastic and the magnet, you can use a cutter or a file with a grain small enough to scratch
the magnet as well as the plastic.

You can then add a magnet in each slot without gluing it. This way, each propeller has 4
magnets.

CAUTION: It is important to orient the magnets correctly so that the bottom propeller can
attract the top propeller and the rotating platform. To do this, first install the bottom propeller
magnets, both propeller magnets must be oriented the same way.
Top propeller support installation

You can then glue the bearingCap_top piece to the bottom of your Tupperware so that it is
correctly centered. I used PU 40+ glue. Silicone or super glue should also work.
Assembly of the rotating platform
The platform consists of a circle and 8 wheels as well as 2 magnet slots.
To install the wheels, simply use a 1.75mm diameter 3D printing filament and place it in the
hole of the wheel and slot. You can then secure the thread with super glue and cut the
excess thread once the super glue has dried.

For the top of the platform, you can choose to print the glass.stl part or use plexiglass or
similar.

Installation of the rotating platform magnets

This rotating platform should also be attracted to the lower propeller. Again, make sure that
the two magnets of the platform are in the same direction.

Unlike propellers, the platform only needs 2 magnets.

Installation of the components in the housing

Installation of the Nema 17 motor

It is easiest to start with the installation of the motor because the motor must be correctly
aligned with the top of the housing. For this step you need 4 M3x50 screws and 4 M3
washers. Remove the 4 screws already present on the back of your Nema 17 motor and
install your motor on the bottom of the housing.

Orient the motor as follows:

Pass the four M3x50mm screws and their washers through, tightening them very loosely.
Then install the bottom propeller to the motor shaft, then place the bearingCap_top on top
of the propeller.
Then close the case and make sure that the bearingCap_top fits into the space intended for
it, in the middle of the cover. To do this step, it is better not to have installed the LCD screen
beforehand. This way you can easily see the bearingCap_top through the hole for the LCD.

Once the motor is seated in its slot, press the cover firmly and secure the motor by fully
tightening the 4 M3x50mm screws previously installed in the motor.
Installation of the heatsink
Install a 4010 fan on the heatsink for NEMA17 using M3x16mm screws.
It is possible that only two screws will fit in the heatsink.
Then glue the heatsink to the edge of the motor as follows:
Remaining components
The other components of the housing can be installed in the bottom of the housing using
M3x16mm screws.
Setting the DC transformer DC 5 volts
Connect the 24V supply to the input of the DCDC transformer. Take a voltmeter and turn the
top potentiometer until you get an output voltage of 5V.

Once the 5V is obtained, you can proceed to the wiring of the rest of the elements.
Wiring
The complete wiring looks like this:

Setting the current limit

To perform this step, make sure you have connected all of the following items: PCB, its 5V
and 24V inputs, the relay, the LED panel and the LCD screen.

Download on your Arduino the LED_ON.ino sketch. (CleanAndCure\Arduino\source

code\LED_ON) This sketch simply turns on the led panel. If the connections are correct, the
panel should light up. Using a flathead screwdriver, turn the second potentiometer
counterclockwise until the intensity of the LEDs decreases. Then turn it clockwise by half a
turn. In this way, we limit the current sent to the LED panel to prevent it from overheating (in
the same way as an LED driver).
Adjusting the voltage of the driver A4988
For this part refer to the following documentation: https://www.pololu.com/product/1182
In my case, the rsense resistor (Rcs) of the driver is 0.1Ω, so I set my driver voltage to 0.5
volts.

Imax = Vref / (8*Rcs) = 0.5/0.8 = 625mA in my case

With an Rcs of 0.05Ω you could set Vref to 250mV
With an Rcs of 0.068Ω you could set Vref to 340mV

Adjustment of the motor speed during cleaning

This part is optional.
During my tests I could observe a kind of resonance frequency when the propeller rotates in
the alcohol. This frequency must depend on many parameters (size of the Tupperware,
power of the magnets, type of nema 17 motor used etc...) This frequency must therefore be
able to differ slightly from one person to another. If you only observe very weak alcohol
swirls when cleaning your parts, download on the Arduino the SpeedCalibration.ino sketch
(CleanAndCure\Arduino\source code\SpeedCalibration). This will allow you to test several
speeds. When the alcohol swirls seem sufficient, simply retrieve the value displayed on the
screen and replace the MAX_STEPPERSPEED_WASH constant in the
WashAndCurev1.ino file, then recompile and upload this code to your Arduino.
Drainer assembly
For this step you need the following parts:
- 4 screws M3x10 mm
- 4 nuts M3
- 4 washers M3
- Parts of the "drip tray" category

Insert the M3 nuts into the 4 legs of the drainer

Assemble the different parts of the drainer using super glue. Once the glue is dry, install the
4 legs with the M3x10mm screws.
Assembling this part can be difficult, you may need to use a file to get the notches and tabs
to fit properly.

Use of the station

Use the rotary encoder to select a mode. Then click with the encoder to set the mode, then
turn the wheel again to choose the time.
Click to validate, click and hold 2s to return to the main menu.