White 404 Sewing Machine Instruction Manual
White 404 Sewing Machine Instruction Manual
I
1%
Iisewin9,
SINCE I876 muclunes
Printed in USA
You are now the owner of a new zigzag sewing
machine, the most versatile type of its kind you can
possess.
Buttonholes, monogramming, stretch stitching,
overcasting and creative embroiãery are done with ease
and speed.
To aid you in obtaining the greatest performance
from your new WHITE this book on its care and use
has been written for you. Read the instructions
• carefully, as a thorough understanding of your machine
will reward you with many hours of trouble free,
creative sewing.
Time-saving attachment such as rufflers, binders,
edgestitchers, hemmers and others to complement
the accessories furnished with your WHITE are
available from the store where you purchased your
machine.
I? •1
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PAGE’
‘
I — ;I—
Parts Indentification
Principle Parts 4
Accessories 6
Installing Machine onto portable case
or cabinet and Connecting Machine 7
;
Selection of Needles and Threads 8
Needle-Thread-Fabric-Stitching Guide 9
Changing Needle 10
Changing Needle Plate 10
Selection of Presser Foot 11
Winding Bobbin 12
Upper Threading 13
Threading Bobbin Case 14
Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle 14
Selection of Stitch
Stitch Length Control 15
Reverse Push Button 15
Stitch Width Control 16
Relating Stitch Length to Stitch Width 16
Stretch Stitch Lever 17
Stitch Pattern Selector [MODEL 4261 17
Blind Stitch Selector [MODEL 4151 18
Controls
Adjusting Thread Tensions 18
Adjusting Pressure on Fabric and Feed Dog Height 19
Sewing Light 20
Buttonholer [MODELS 415 & 426] 20
Creative Embroidery Control 20
-4
Preparing to Sew 21
Guiding Fabric 21
Turning Corners 21
Curved Seams 22
Sewing Across Heavy Seams 22
Removing the Work 22
Straight Stitch
Seam 23
Basting/Topstitching 23
Darning 23
Cording/Sewing on Zipper 24
Quilting 24
Zigzag Stitch
Overcasting 25
Applique/Patching • 28
Gathering Over a Cord •
29
.
Lace Application • 29
• .10 Flutter Hem
• .10
•
29
•
•
Sewing Tips • 30
• .11 Shaping Dart in Interfacing
.12 30
• .13 Multiple Zigzag Stitch [MODEL 4261 • 30
• .14 Buttonholes
• .14 Preparation 31
Built-In Buttonhole [MODELS 415 & 4261 32
Turn-Round Buttonhole 33
Corded Buttonhole 33
• •15 Blind Hem Stitch [MODELS 415 & 4261
• 15 Straight Stretch Stitch 35
•16 Topstitching 35
• •16 Ultra-Stretch Stitch
•17 Rick-Rack Stretch • 35
• 17 Pine-Leaf Stretch [MODELS 415 & 426]
• •18 Special Ultra-Stretch [MODEL 426] 36
Elastic Application 37
• 18 Overlock Application
• •19 37
A
• •20 AL
• 20 Oiling Machine 38
• 20 Cleaning and Oiling Shuttle Area 39
Adjusting Bobbin Winder 40
Adjusting and Changing Motor Belt 40
• .21 Problem and Remedies
• 21 41
• 21 :4
22
22 Attachment Foot 43
• 22 Edgestitcher 43
Binder 44
Folded Binding 44
Two-Tone Binding 44
•
23 .
Hand-Cut Bias Binding 44
• •23 The Set of Hemmers 45
• 23 Ruffler 46
•
24 . Narrow Hemmer 47
24 Lace Trimmed Hems 48
Lace Edge with Invisible Stitching 48
• 25 French Seam 48
Hemming Across A Seam .48
3
PARTS IDENTIFICATION
PRiNCIPLE PARTS
FRONT VI.
MODEL 426
BACK VIEW
2. Pressure Control
3. Top Thread Guides
4. Stitch Pattern Window
[Model 4261
5. Stitch Pattern Selector
[Model 426]
6. Selector Release
[Model 4261
Blind Stitch Selector
[Model 415]
7. Creative Embroidery
Control
8. Bobbin Winder
9. Hand Wheel
10. Clutch nut
LATE
Loosen both head hinge set screws
0
on the rear side back of machine
bed plate until head hinge holes
are clear.
Tilt head hinge pins up and back
as far as they will go.
Carefully slip machine head onto
hinges — making sure the head
hinge pins are inserted as far as
they can go into head hinge holes.
Allow machine head to rest in its
tilted back position.
Tighten both set screws securely
with screwdriver.
Plug electrical leads from machine
head into sockets located inside
cabinet or portable case. Cord
identified with “motor” tag must
be plugged into socket marked
“motor”. Untagged cord goes to
“light” socket.
Insert plug into a wall outlet of
110—115 Volts.
Extremely heavy 6
tarpaulin, sacking, 18 to Heavy Duty
canvas, duck, etc. 8
Heavy upholstery 8
fabric, ticking, 18 to Heavy Duty
denim, leatherette. 10
Medium broadcloth, 12
percale, gingham, linen, 14 to 50 0
chintz, taffeta, sheer 14
wool, shantung, etc.
ATE
CHANGING NEEDLE PL
utility needle
Although an all-purpose machine, for
ur
plate is fixed on yo
ing on fin e fabric or soft or
straight sew
may want to use
very stretchy fabric, you plate together
edle
the straight stitch ne
foot, both of
with the straight stitch
accessory box.
which are included in your
plate, simply slide
To change the needle
tward as possible.
the slide plate as far lef
ews holding the
Remove the two scr
needle plate and
plate in place. Lift the
replace.
ed for cleaning
The needle plate is remov
pile up between
the lint which may
gs.
needle plate and feed do
l0
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SELECTION OF PRESSER FOOT
For most ordinary stitchings the original all-purpose foot can be used. However,
it is recommended to use following special foot in your accessory box whenever
you want better stitching result.
Buttonhole Foot
This foot has a groove underneath, to
allow the narrow satin stitch or button
-hole to form evenly. However, if
skip-stitch occurs with this foot,
apply the underlay of a thin paper below
the fabric.
CHANGING FOOT
Use the large screwdriver to loosen thumb
screw. Turn the screw backward until the
foot becomes loose. Then, lift up on
presser foot lever until it is in its highest
position in order to remove the foot.
Replace with desired foot and tighten
thumb screw securely.
II
12
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UPPER THREADING
J / 4
8. Thread the needle FROM LEFT
TO RIGHT, drawing it through
NOOK about 3 or 4 inches. Hold the
rend of the upper thread loosely
and turn the hand wheel toward
you until the needle goes all the
way down and comes back up. A
p thread loop will form over
the upper thread which then can
be pulled out straight. Place
both thread ends under presser
foot and draw toward the back
of the machine, leaving both
/ threads three or four inches
long.
Cross reference table between numeral on the control and number of actual stitches
per inch
s -. 4
‘5
IS
To turn the stitch pattern selector tocaiige the stitch pattern of your selection;
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you.
2. Pushing the selector release lever to the right by your right hand, turn the pattern
selector to the right for stitch patterns shown right from the original stitch pattern
in stitch pattern window and to the left for stitch patterns shown left.
3. Release your right hand from selector release lever to return it to original stitch
pattern selector lock position.
For ordinary zigzag and straight sewing, set the indicator at the left end “Manual”
position, with stretch stitch lever at M.
The stitch patterns shown upper side in the row of “Elastic Stitches” in stitch
pattern window are available with stretch stitch lever at M, and those shown lower
row marked “Stretch Stitches” are available with stretch stitch lever at S. For those
special pattern stitchings other than ordinary zigzag and Rick-Rack stretch (triple
back-and-forth zigzag> stitching, stitch width control should be at 0.
—:::: :-
(snc, STItCHES
17
CONTROLS:
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS
Always adjust the upper thread
tension with the presser foot down,
as the tension is released when it is
raised. To increase the tension on
the upper thread, turn tension
control to the right. To decrease,
turn to the left. Before adjusting
the tension be sure that the
machine is threaded properly.
It is seldom required to adjust
the bobbin thread tension,
however, when necessary to change
bobbin thread tension, turn small
screw on side of the bobbir(cae
clockwise to tighten counterclock
,
wise to lobsen.
is
On models 415 and 426, the stitch width control knob
at the red
used also for buttonholing. With the control
the left
square mark (1), the machine sews forward on
edge of buttonhole with the stitch width of about 1/16
e end
inch. At the red square mark (2—4>, the buttonhol
out feed ing. At
is bartacked about 5/32 inch vide with
hed
the red mark (3), the right edge of buttonhole is stitc
in reverse with same about 1/16 inch width as the left
edge of buttonhole.
4 in
Therefore, simply by turning hebntrol from 1 to
very fine
sequence for every step olbUttonhoting, a
with a
buttonhole of the size about 5/32 inch wide
produced.
center open cut space of about 2/32 inch is
stitch
jh The stitch length control should be set at the satin
position in the red mark “Bottonhole” there .
CREATIVE I
20
GUIDING FABRIC
Except blind stitching and pine leaf stretch hem stitching, also, buttonhole stitching
zigzag
by buttonholer of models 415 and 426, straight stitch seam and the left line of
etched
stitch column is run over the left end etched scale on needle plate The scale is
of fabric follow the line selecte d for the
with every 1/8 inch distance Let the edg9
for the seam, not the
seam, and let your eyes follow the echd line you selected
ent
needle, during sewing. To help your guiding fabric, place cloth guide attachm
securing it by the extra thumb screw onto machine bedplate. Cloth guide and extra
thumb screw are included in your accessary box.
needle
Do not try to help the feeding by pulling the material as this may deflect the
and cause it to break.
TURNING CORNERS
width To pivot at a corner, leave the needle in the fabric while its upward stroke. Lift the
s can presser foot, turn the fabric, then lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
left
ving.
ACROSS HEAVY
..
SEWiNG
.. .
SEAMS i, i /1
seam,
When approaching heavy
rd on an angle
hold the fabric upwa
fal ls un der
so that the heavy seam sse r
pre
the front curved sled of
foot.
g thread
/
Pull down slightly, holdin
to bend the
in both hands, so as not
needle.
ds under
Leave the ends of threa
the presser foot.
A
22
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I
STRAIGHT STITCH:
SEAMS
[Pattern: M or Manual— The normal stitch length for most fabrics
models 415 & 426] is between 2—3 but the length chosen
Length: 2—3
Width: 0 should depend on the fabric and area of
Feed Dog: High usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require
Pressure: Full longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics
Foot: Straight Stitch or require shorter stitches. For curved seams
All Purpose
Stretch Control: M and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch
length. Be sure to set the stitch width
control at 0.
BASTI NG/TOPSTITCH I NG
DARNING
[Pattern: M or Manual— Worn spots or small holes can be darned
models 415 & 4261 very easily. Use of an embroidery hoop is
Length: 0
Width: 0 optional depending on the fabric. A fine
Feed Dog: Down thread is recommended so that the fabric
Pressure: 0 and thread will blend together invisibly.
Foot: All Purpose, or Trim the ragged edges from the area to be
DarningSpring of White
Special attachment darned. Hold the threads to start, then
Stretch Control: M move the fabric slowly backwards and
forwards while running the machine very
fast to fill the area. More professional
results will be attained by moving the
fabric in a figure eight pattern while
sewing. After filling in the area length
wise, reweave with crosswise stitches in
the same manner.
23
• INSERT CORDING
(A) Fold bias strip of fabric over
cord. Loosen the adjusting
screw on the back of cording!
zipper foot and set the foot to
the left of needle.
(B) Sandwich the welting between
two layers of fabric with right
sides together. Stitch a second
time with cording/zipper foot
to the right of needle so that
the needle stitches close to the
cord through all thicknesses.
• ZIPPERS
Swing the foot to left or right of
the needle as needed so that the
foot sews very close to zipper teeth.
-.4
QUILTING
Parallel straight lines are easy to
sew with the quilting guide. To
attach the guide, loosen thumb
screw and slip the U-shaped holder
of the guide between presser foot
and thumb screw. Tighten the
thumb screw securely. Adjust the
curved bar to the desired distance
from the needle. Sew the first line
of stitching as desired, then, for the
succeeding rows let the guide
follow along the previous stitch
line. A straight stitch, zigzag, or any
other stitch may be used.
24
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ZIGZAG STITCH:
OVERCASTING
[Pattern: M or Manu& Place the edge of the material underneath
models 415 and 4261
Length: 1—3 the opening of the sewing foot and guide
Width: 3—4 raw edge along the center slot of the foot
Feed Dog: High allowing stitch to form half on and half
Pressure: Full off the fabric.
Foot: All Purpose The multiple stitch zigzag is a wiser
Stretch Control: M
choice on Model 426 for most fabrics.
See page 30.
SEAMING KNITS
[Pattern: M or Manual— The narrow zigzag can be used in seams
models 415 and 426] of firm knits for added strength. After
Length: 1
Width: 1—3 sewing, open seam and press flat. Tiny
Feed Dog: High zigzag stitches can hardly be seen and the
Pressure: Full seam will give when stretched.
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
SEWING ON BOTTONS
[Pattern: M or Manual— Place the button so its left hole comes
models 415 and 4261 directly under the needle of its left zigzag
Length: 0
swing then gently lower the button foot.
Width: 2—4
Feed Dog: Down Take a stitch into the hole.
Pressure: Full Raise the needle from the left hole, and
Foot: Button Foot move zigzag width control to the right
Stretch Control: M until the needle comes down exactly over
the right hole in the button.
Note: Be sure the needle clears the holes
of the button by moving the wheel by
hand before running the machine fast.
Usually 6 to 8 stitches are adequate for
securing a button in place. Stop with the
needle in the left hole. To lock the
threads, set the stitch width at 0, and
take a few stitches in the left hand hole.
e
2
G
SATIN STITCHIN ual—models 415
and 426]
tIh fo r de co ra tio n such as [Pattern: Y
M or Man
or “Buttonhole”
This is useful em br oi de ry , Length: 4
designed Width: 1—4
tapering, manual applique. Feed Dog: High
d
monogramming an ly ju st a Pressure: Full
which is real
The seam stitch, itch, is obtained by Foot: All PurposeM
st
very close zigzag th as ne ar to “0” as Stretch
Control:
h le ng
setting the stitc ping the feedin
g
le w ith ou t st op
possib arked
the red bar m for
action or at ry
e setting will va
“buttonhole”. Th ble to
er en t fa br ic s. It may be desira
di ff use
th e up pe r te ns ion slightly to ca
loosen order
ck underneath in
the threads to lo rface look especially
su
to make the top ace a
. Fo r lig ht w eight fabrics, pl
smoo th best
un de rn ea th the fabric for
paper
results.
26
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TAPERING/CREATIVE
EMBROIDERY
Tapering is done by gradually increasing
/
v4 A
AIA/;
/
V
and decreasing the stitch width by
/ moving creative embroidery control while
CREATJVE EMRO1DER sewing. By this method, tapered mono
grams and other interesting designs can be
11llW 1
I
iwtJlflil 1
L-
I ‘AA A
1M€
5 /
created. For tapered monogram run the
machine fast while sliding the creative
A
/
‘ / embroidery control slowly from left to
right and from right to left.
First, learn this stroke by letting the
fabric guide straight. Then, learn to pivot
the fabric as you are tapering by holding
A the fabric at one point. Various strokes
can be combined to form letters and
designs. Variegated thread can give
attractive results.
MANUAL EMBROIDERY
DESIGNS
LACE APPLICATION
Attaching laces or trims adds a specia
touch to lingerie, dresses, or linens. Pin oi
baste lace in place easing or miterinç
corners where neccessary.
A straight edged lace or braid has
convenient line to follow when sewing
When using a scalloped edged lace follov
the design of the lace for an almos
invisible application.
[Pattern: M or Manual—models 415 and 426]
Length: 4—1
Width: 1—2
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
FLUTTER HEM
An unusual way of hemming of finishin!
edges of tricot or soft knits is by a flu tte
edge. Hemming in this manner is just likc
overcasting an edge, but the fabric i
stretched in back and in front of thE
needle as you sew. For best results, pul
the fabric equally, making sure the needlE
goes over the edge. When you stop tc
reposition your hands, keep the needle ir
the fabric.
[Pattern: M or Manual-. models 415 and 426]
Length: %—%
Width: 4
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
SHAPING DARTS IN
INTERFACINGS
Cut interfacing down center between dart
lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dart
lines. Zigzag stitch along marking line
from point to wide end of dart. Trim
both raw edges close to stitching.
[Pattern: Manual or M-models 415 & 426]
Length: 1/2_i
Width: 4—1
Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All Purpose
Stretch Control: M
PREPARATION
For the best results, a good quality mercerized cotton
thread should be used. Polyester threads often result in
puckered or heavy unattractive buttonholes. The finer
your fabric is, the finer your cotton thread should be.
An interfacing should be used under the buttonholes to
give body, to strengthen, and to help them withstand
wear.
CENTER LINE 1/8rnch particular fabric. As with the satin stitch, the stitches
.OF:G.RMENT:: should be close together, but not so close that they pile
up. Be sure to use the buttonhole foot.
CENTER LINE
OF GARMENT
I
end of buttonhole.
4) position
2. Stitch width control to the (2—
take a few stitch to bartack the bottom end
of buttonhole.
h
3. With the needle up, turn the stitch widt
ii control to the (3) position. Sew on the right
edge of buttonhole.At this pósLton the ma
chine is feeding in reverse.
le is
5. To lock the stitches, make sure the needfeed
out of the fabric and set widt h at 0 and
ji dog height down. Then take a few stitches.
t
6. To prevent cutting through the bartack inser
a straight pin through the barta ck. Cut
buttonhole open.
32
CORDED BUTTONHOLE
Cording gives a reinforced raised buttonhole. It is
excellent for use on bulky, woven fabric, or knits
in which the stitching often gets buried and
makes cutting difficult. On knits, a corded
buttonhole will help keep the fabric from
stretching out of shape.
Choose a heavy cotton crochet thread or
buttonhole twist to use for the cording. Proceed
as for the turn-around buttonhole having cord
the under the presser foot in such a way that
[Pattern: M or Manual-models 415 and 426)
the zigzag stitch covers the cord.
Length: Buttonhole
At the completion of the buttonhole snip the
Width: 2—0 excess cord close to the bartack on woven
Feed Dog: Down-High-Down-High-Down fabrics. For knitted garments, always pull the
Pressure: Full cords to the wrong side by using a darning needle
Foot: Buttonhole Foot
or needle threader, and knot the cord ends
Stretch Control: M
before clipping.
Pressure Full
Foot All Purpose —
Stretch Control M
II’
. . ..
34
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STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH:
This stitch may be used on knits and wovens in [Pattern: Manual or M
areas of stress as a reinforcement stitch. It is —models 415 & 416]
excellent for curved seams such as armholes and Length: 5
Width: 0
crotch seams. For active wear such as ski pants and Feed Dog: High
girdle fabrics which endure a lot of stress in Pressure: Full
bending and stretching, this stitch may be used for Foot: All Purpose
seaming throughout the garment. Stretch Control: S
CAUTION It is difficult to remove this stitch
—
• TOPSTITCHING”
/ Because this stitch is heavier
than an ordinary straight
stitch it is ideal for top-
stitching, particularly on
knits.
/
ULTRA-STRETCH STITCH:
The Ultra-Stretch Stitches are excellent for stretch fabrics such as lingerie, sweater
knits, bathing suit knits, and cotton knits. It has the greatest strength and elasticity
/ , I of all.
Pattern: Manual or M
. RICK-RACK STRETCH -models 415 & 426]
This is most common utility ultrastretch of a triple Length: 5
back-and-forth zig’zag stitches with more elasticity Width: 2—4
than regular zigzag. Feed Dog: High
Pressure: Full
Foot: All purpose
>i Stretch Control: S
OILING MACHINE
e
Use on’y a good sewing machin
oil, do not use any common
household oils.
Your machine shou’d be oiled
occasionally to keep it operating
s on
smoothly. How often depend
the amount of sew ing you do.
Once a year oil your machine
thoroughly as indidated by the
arrows on illustrations.
Avoid over oiling.
38
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CLEANING AND OILING
THE SHUTTLE
The stitch forming mechanism occasional
Jy becomes clogged with loose threads
and lint. This will interfere with the
• efficient operation of the machine.
Cleaning and removal of the lint will
safeguard the performance.
To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed
as follows:
1. Turn hand wheel until the needle
reaches its highest position. Tilt head
back on its hinges.
2. Remove bobbin case (A).
3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps
(f) outward and remove the shuttle
race cover (C) and the shuttle body
(E) and the lint cleaner (D).
4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and
shuttle race cover by removing all
threads, lint, etc.
When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as follows to replace the shut
tle assembly:
1. Turn hand wheel until the needle reaches its highest position.
2. Place lint cleaner (D) to shuttle driver and shuttle body (E) in race (F)
against shuttle driver and adjust into position.
3. Replace shuttle race cover (C), fitting pin at lower edge into notch, and lock
into position with shuttle race cover clamps, (f), making certain the clamps have
been snapped securely into position.
4. Put bobbin (B) into bobbin case (A).
5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle, fitting tongue (a) into notch (c) of race
cover (C).
(F)
40
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U
PROBLEM AND REMEDIES
If Machine Thread or lint in race Clean and oil machine the shuttle
Binds way area (See page 39)
Skipping ; Benlneedlq 1k
Stitches /
?A
4 Needieplacerjincor
/
tectly in clamp
,
/
Toofineaneedlefar
t
thread bcrng used
j4
:
‘
E9
A
Bentoreyeofnee tryanewneec1l
too sharp
Discard all blunt or bent needles and
Bent or blunt needle replace with new.
Material Tensions too tight See tension adjustment pageig
Puckering
Dull needle Chanae needle
A
Stitch length too long Reduce stitch length
Machine noisy s h
is set at other than Set stitch length control at NumberS
notieeuip £
Numberb 7 /4
stretch stitching 7 4.
.4’•../7:4A/4
.
Improper” /
Rwn9ve needle plate and cleaz Irn corn
tint in fDed dog..
feeding 4eedclog 7
41
HE MM E RS:
5/8”HEM 3/8”HEM 1/4”HEM
7/8”H EM
j
PART #76552 PART #76551 PART #76550
PART #76553
42
43
FOLDED BINDING.
Cut folded binding to a point,
insert in appropriate slot. Draw
through slot and under binder with
strong pin. Test stitching to be sure
it is on the edge. Adjust by sliding
binder to right or left.
j TWO-TONE BINDING
Two bindings can be sewn on fabric
edge also in one operation. When
two are used always skip one size
between widths, inserting each in
correct size slot.
You can make a hem 1/4”, 3/8”, 5/8” or 7/8” in width, depending upon which
hemmer you use. A few uses are shown below.
/ cfl
I
t
46
t
FRENCH SEAM
Place material with right sides
facing each other and the top piece
of material 1/8 inch from right
hand edge of lower piece. Insert in
hemmer scroll allowing hem to roll
over and sew in top fabric making
French seam. For cording effect,
use zigzag stitch wide enough to
catch both edges of the narrow
rolled hem and sew with satin
stitch. This can be used for covering
chairs and so forth.
48