Kenmore 385.17622 Sewing Machine Instruction Manual

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OWNER'S MANUAL
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SEWING MACHINE
MODEL 385. 17622
All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate
and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you
obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store.
Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention
the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Z "
Record in space provided below the model number and serial

number of this appliance. The model number and serial number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of
this booklet.
Model No. 385. Serial No.

Retain these numbers for future reference.
THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

IMPORTANT SAFETY 4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep
ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from
INSTRUCTIONS accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use. 6. Do not use outdoors.
Read all instruction before using this sewing machine.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where
oxygen is being administered.
DA N G ER- To reduce the risk of electric shock;

8. To disconnect,
plug from outlet.
turn all controls to the off ('0") position, then remove
1.
An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always 9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the
unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using cord.
and before cleaning.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required
2.
Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated around the sewing machine needle,
15 Watts.
11, Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the
3. Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug needle to break.
immediately.
12. Do not use bent needles.
4. Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub 13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.
or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.
It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in
WAR N IN G- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading
bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.
orinjury to persons. 15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when
removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this mentioned in the instruction manual.
appliance is used by or near children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
this manual.
Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not

working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into
water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service
center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
TABLE •OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE Zigzag Stitches ........................... 23_31

• Basic Zigzag ............................. 23
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available .............. 3 • Satin Stitch ............................. 23
Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 3_4 • Applique ............................... 24
Identify the Accessories ........................ 4 • Bar Tacking ............................. 24
• Sew a Button ............................ 25
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
• Overcasting Stitch ......................... : 26
Set Up the Machine ......................... 5_7 • Three-Step Zigzag ......................... 27
• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... 5 • Blind Hemming .......................... 28
• Foot Control Use .......................... 5 • LaceWork .............................. 29
• Setting Spool Pins .......................... 6 • Shell Stitching ........................... 29
• Adjust the PresserFoot Lever .................. 6 • Box Stitching ............................ 30
• Thread Cutter ............................ 6 • Fagoting Stitch .......................... 31
• Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table , , . 7 • Decorate with Geometic Patterns ............... 31
Stretch Stitches .......................... 32_35
• Accessories Storage Box ...................... 7
• Change the Presser Foot ...................... 7 • Straight Stretch .......................... 32
Choose the Needle and Thread ................. 7_8 • Rick-Rack Stretch ........................ 32
• To Change the Needle ....................... 7 • Smocking .............................. 33
• Check the Needle .......................... B • Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... 33
• Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ...... 8 • Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ 34
Prepare the Bobbin ........................ 9_10 • Elastic Stretch Stitch ....................... 34
• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ...... 9 • Herring Bone Stretch ....................... 35
• Windthe Bobbin ....................... 9_10 • Decorative Stretch Patterns .................. 35
• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case ........... 10 Buttonbholes ............................ 36_37
Prepare the Top Thread ..................... 11_12
• Thread the Needle ........................ 11 SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
• Pick Upthe Bobbin Thread .................. 12 What to Do When ............... , • ........ 38_39
Adjust the Top Thread Tension ................ 13_14
Reverse Stitch Control ........................ 14 SECTION 5. CARE FOR THE MACHINE
Stitch Selector ............................. 15
Stitch Length Control ........................ 16 Replacing the Light Bulb ...................... 40
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................. 16 Cleaning the Machine ...................... 40_41
Starting To Sew ............................ 17 • Clean the Feed Dogs ....................... 40
• Cleanthe Shuttle Race ..................... 41
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Oiling the Machine .......................... 42
• Oil behing the Face Cover Plate and Under
Straight Stitches .......................... 18_22 Arm Cover Plate .......................... 42
• . Straight Stitch ........................... 18 • Oil the Underside ......................... 42
• Usethe Seam Guides ....................... 18
• Turna Square Corner ...................... 1B PARTS LIST ........................................ 43
• Topstitching ............................ 19
• Left Needle Position ....................... lg INDEX ............................................ 44
• Sew in a Zipper ........................ 20_21
• Use the Darning Plate ...................... 22
• Darning ............................... 22
"!
SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available Locate and Identify the Parts
A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your

nearest Sears retail store or through our general
catalog.
Take-up Lever Upper Thread Guide Thread Spool Pins
Another option . . . buy a Carrying Case . , . then
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any- Selector Release
.where.
Bobbin Winding Tension Disc Bobbin Winding Spindle
\
Top Thread Tension Control
Stitch Length Control
%
Face Cover Plate
Thread Cutter Reverse Stitch Control
Needle Plate
Stitch Selector
Shuttle Cover
Extension Table
(Accessory storage box)
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SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE
Identify the Accessories

Arm Cover Plate Carrying Handle
Hand Wheel nhole opener

Bobbin
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Presser Foot Lever
Auto Clutch Knob
_ Large screw driver
Light and
Power Switch
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Free Arm
Sliding
buttonhole foot
Plug Connector Darning plate
_Nomenclature Plate
Zipperfoot
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Lint brush
Foot Control
Straight
stitch foot
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all screw driver

Needle Clamp Screw
Satin stitch
foot
Presser Foot
Set Up the Machine
Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power • Foot Control Use
light
Foot control
Plug
connector 4. Push the light and power switch to turn The foot control regulates the speed at
on the power and sewing light. which you saw,
Machine
plug To increase speed, gently press down with
SAFETY FEATURE:
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the ball of your foot.
NOTE: Before inserting the plug into your Your machine will not operate unless the
To decrease speed, release your foot pres-
machine, be sure the power switch is light/power switch is turned on. If you are
sure slightly.
OFF. interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
light/power switch to prevent injury to
The foot control is sensitive and
children, NOTE:
1. Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120 wilt increase'or decrease your
Volt AC outlet. OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
sewing speed immediately.
2. "For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). Practice on a scrap of fabric to
Insert the machine ptug into the three-prong
To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a
plug connector, as shown. It will only fit one regulate your sewing speed to
way.
polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, your taste and needs.
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install
3, Insert the power supply plug into the outlet. the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way."
"Foot Controller Model YC-482P for use with Sewing Machine Models
385.1148xxx, 385.1158xxx, 385.1168xxx, 385.1258xxx, 385.1268xxx,

385.12612 x x x, 385.1278x x x, 385.11607x x x, 385.12710× x x, 385.12TI4x x x,
385.12712xxx, 385.17622xxx, 385.11608xxx, 385.12814xxx and 385.12014xx×.
x xx - represents numbers 000 through 999."

(For U.S.A. market only)
100-316-005 5
• Setting Spool Pins • Adjust the Presser Foot Lever • Thread Cutter
f
t
Spool "
Normal up
position
positior
High
position
ip
position
Presser foo'_
lever
The spool pins are used for holding the spool The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the
of thread in order to feed thread to the presser foot. thread after you finish sewing. Just use the
machine. handy thread cutter.
You can raise it about 1/4" higher than the normal
To use, pull up the spool pins. Push down up position for easy removal of the presser foot or Pull the threads to lengthen several inches
for storage. to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser before starting the next seam.
foot.
Set Up the Machine (Continued) Choose the Needle and Thread

• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable • Accessory Storage Box Change the PresserFoot • To Changethe Needle
Extension Table
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Needle clamp screw
%
Flat
side
away
fror£1
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you
To Remove the Extension Table The lid of the accessory storage Use the correct presser foot for
)
(for free-arm sewing) box lifts open toward you. the stitch you wish to sew.
NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest
1. Grip the table with your index finger
Sewing accessories are conveni-
and thumb, as shown. To change the various presser position by turning the hand wheel
ently located in the box. toward you.
feet, raise the presser bar to its
2. Pull gently to the left, The extension
highest position by lifting the 1. Loosen the needle clamp screw by
table will snap out.
presser foot lever. turning it toward you.
To Attach the Extension Table Loosen the presser foot thumb 2. Remove the needle by pulling it down-
screw, choose the proper foot, ward.
(for flat-bed sewing)
insert from the bottom.
3. Insert the new needle into the needle
1. Insert the tab and the pin into their
Tighten the screw using the
catches. clamp with the flat side away from you.
large screw driver to make
4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.
2. With your thumb and index finger, certain the foot is secure.
5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly
gently snap in.
with the large screwdriver from the
accessory box.
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• Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart
NEEDLE RECOMMENDED
FABRIC SIZE AND THREAD SIZE STITCH LENGTH
COLOR SETTING
Lightweight:
Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Polyester Core/Cotton 2
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, 11-ORANGE Wrap (12 stitches per
Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Fine Mercerized Co,on inch)
Organdy Silk A
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Medium Weight:
Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are CQtton, Cotton Blend,
Percale, Gingham, 50 Mercerized Cotton 2-2.5
sewing.
Shantung, Pique, 14-RED Polyester Core/Cotton (10-12 stitches
In the needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded Seersucker, Satin, Knit, Wrap per inch)
needles: Suiting, Linen, Silk A
Wool Crepe, Leather
Blue (11 ) ......... for stretch fabrics.
Medium Heaw Weight: 50 Mercerized Cotton
Orange (11 ) ........ for lightweight fabrics.
Corduroy, Denim, Wool, 14-RED Mercerized Heavy-Duty 2--3
Red (14) .......... for medium or medium-heavy Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, or Polyester Core/Cotton {8-10 stitches
Gabardine, Velvet, 16-PURPLE Wrap per inch)
weight fabrics. Leather Silk A
Purple (16) ........ for medium-heavy weight fabrics
and decorative topstitching on these Heavy Weight: Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton 3
Coating, Upholstery
fabrics. (This needle has a larger Cotton Duck, Heavy 18-GREEN Polyester Core/Cotton (8 stitches per
thread hole for thicker topstitching Twills, Canvas Wrap inch)
Silk A
thread.)
I 3--4
Green (18) ........ for heavy weight fabrics and Decorative top-stitching 16-PURPLE Buttonhole Twist (6-8 stitches
decorative top-stitching on these on all types of fabric 18-GREEN (Use as top thread only) per inch)
fabrics.
Stretch Fabric:
11-BLUE
Replacement Kenmore needles are available at your nearest Sears Polyester Double Knit, {STRETCH Polyester Core/Cotton 2-2.5
Nylon Tricot. Jersey, FABRIC Wrap (10-12 stitches
store.
Stretch Terry, Spandex, NEEDLE) 50 Mercerized Cotton per inch)
Cire Tricot
• Check the Needle
1. Look for barbed or blunt point.
2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in

knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and

be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.
8
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Prepare the Bobbin
• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine • Wind the Bobbin
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Release clutch by turning the
clutch knob inside the hand wheel
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toward you to stop the needle from
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moving while you wind the
Remove the extension table from To remove bobbin case from shut- bobbin.
the machine by pulling it to the tle, pull open latch of bobbin case.
left. Open the shuttle cover by Pull bobbin case straight out of
pulling down the embossed part on shuttle.
the left side of the cover.
Raise needle to its highest position

by rotating hand wheel toward you.
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• Wind the Bobbin (Continued)

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Draw thread from spool through Pull end of thread through hole in Place bobbin onto bobbin winding Wind thread until winder stops.
bobbin winding tension disc as shown, bobbin as shown. spindle with end of thread coming Push bobbin winding spindle to the
from the top of the bobbin. Push left and clip thread. Remove bobbin.
bobbTn winding spindle to the right Turn clutch knob away from you
until it clicks. Holding onto end of while holding hand wheel for normal
thread, start machine. When bobbin is sewing operation.
slightly filled, snip off end of thread.
• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
,J J
Place bobbin in bobbin case Pull thread through slot of case Pull thread under tension Holding latch open, position Case should lock into place
making sure thread feeds clock- as shown. spring and through the opening case into shuttle and release when latch is released.
wise and is coming from as shown above. Pull 3 to 4 latch.
bobbin as shown. inches of thread from bobbin.
10
Prepare the Top Thread

• Thread the Needle
Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you.
Raise presser foot lever.
Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool.
1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.
2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the
check spring holder.
The numbered steps above follow the numbers
3. Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.
on the illustrations.
4. Draw thread down and slip it into left side needle bar thread guide.
Dotted lines show places where the thread
5. Thread needle from front to back.
loops and then is pulled tight.
NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
11
Pick Up the Bobbin Thread
!
Bring bobbin thread up by pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to the
1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold top 2.
thread loosely in left hand and rotate top thread. back of "the presser foot, leaving 4
handwheel toward you one complete to 6 inches of thread clear.
turn.
If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check:
1. Is needle threaded from front to back?
2. Is thread tangled around needle?
3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?
4. Is thread from shuttle tanglecl?
5. Is bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case?
6. Is the machine threaded according to the instructions?
12
Adjust the Top Thread Tension
Choose the Correct Tension:
Top side of fabric The best tension will depend on;
Setting mark
the stiffness and thickness of the fabric
the number of fabric layers
--- the type of stitch
thread (
Tighten
The top thread
is too loose.
The top thread
is too tight
thread
Top side
of fabric Top side
of fabric
For Straight Stitch
The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of The top thread The bobbin thread
fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail. appears on the appears on the
underside of the
upper surface of the
If you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no fabric. fabric.
gaps, that each stitch is smooth and even.
When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top
thread.
Tension is too loose: Tension is too tight:
The top thread shows through the The bobbin thread will come through
bottom of the fabric. The bottom side the top of the fabric. The top side of
of the stitch will feel bumpy. the stitch wilt feel bumpy.
13
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Reverse Stitch Control
For Zigzag Stitch
In a correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side
of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side. See
below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust the top
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tension.
Top tension Top tension
Too Tight Too Loose Just Right

es
To reverse stitch, hold down this control during
Top side of Fabric Top side of Fabric Top side of Fabric
sewing.
Release to sew forward again.

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Bottom side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric

Too Tight: Too Loose: Just Right:
-- Corner of each -- The top thread Minimize the amount
zigzag will pull . will loop through of top thread visible on
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together on the bottom side of the bottom side of

top side of fabrics. fabric and will be fabric without causing
pulled almost excessive puckering or
together. causing the bobbin
thread to show on the
top side. Results vary
with fabric, thread and
sewing conditions.
all
14
Stitch Selector
stitch patterns are color-coded to recommend setting zones at the stitch

Jr. ..... I I Selector Release length control.
ZONES
Setting mark (_)_etting mark @_
• Red ......... Straight, Zigzag and Utility Stitches
• Green ........ Geometric Decorative Stitches
/" "'_tito. Selector • Blue ......... Built-in Buttonhole Making
• Brown ....... Stretch Stitches
=. = =
= \=
lt%.o_Pattern Selector Dial
1) Raise the needle to its highest position.

2) Select the desired pattern at the setting mark(_)by turning the pattern selector
dia!. Dial will not turn past "SELECT" without moving selector release to the
right,
When you select patterns A to I
a) First, slide the selector release to the right so that the "SELECT A to !" mark
on the selector release meets the setting mark@on the machine.
b) Then, select the desired pattern at the setting mark I by turning the pattern
selector dial.
c) Slide back the selector' release to the left so that the "SEW" mark on the
selector release meets the setting mark(_)on the machine.
Note: Do not turn the pattern selector dial while the needle is in the lower
position. It may cause the needle to'break.
15
Stitch Length Control Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance
0 3 4 ,./-Setting mark
I
I / titch Length
// Stitch Length I t
/ \
o--i--=-,,;--+--, +_
! \
I ---- I Yn
1,,
/ =H !)t'lJ
o--1-1-3-,-_
,, = i] 1
\
• i ,,¢/
Stitch ._
Control "'.._.._
etting mark
To select Stretch Stitches, set this control at •
The stitch length control regulates the length of stitch, and also has a stretch stitch position.
setting.
be in the detent position between S and L (Vposition)
for most materials. Depending upon the type of fabric
The higher the number, the longer the stitch.
"0" means no feed. used, you may need to adjust this control to match
forward stitches of stretch sewing with reversemotion
stitches.
To select Stretch Stitches, set this control at • position.
NOTE: When you select decorative stitches (green) or built-in buttonhole (blue), To shorten stretch stitches, turn the control slightly
make sure that you do not set the stitch length control at • position. toward "S". To lengthen, turn toward "L"+
Study the red, green, brown and blue section around this control. These L - • • S
are recommended zones of stitch length and are colorcoded to the
stitches pictured on the stitch indicator panel.
Smock ing stretch
Rickrack stretch
16
SECTION2. PREPARETHE MACHINEFORSEWING
StartingTo Sew
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new
Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:
1. Inspect the needle. It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be
afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural
fibers.
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the mach!ne_ Ho!don to threads
during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.
3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use. The fabric should be double thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and
tension suitable to the fabric.
4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8'"
seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam.
5, Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the machine will sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking sewing a few stitches in reverse.
7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.
9, When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.
17
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches
Straight Stitch Use the Seam Guides
Set the Machine
Stitch
I Stitch length
I
I control red
zone
Stitch selector
Cornering Guide
The seam guides on the needle plate
Straight foot are there to help you measure seam

1. Raise the presser foot. 7. At the end of the seam, you may
width. The lines are 1/8" apart, with
2. Raise the needle to its highest want to reverse to lock the stitch, the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked.
position .... 8_ Raise the presser foot and remove
t T_o+uare Corner
the fabric, - .....
Top thread tension 3. Place the edge of the fabric next _"
control 2 to 6 Zigzag foot
needle plate (5/8" is most
common), g
4. Draw the threads towards the

back and lower the presser foot.
to a stitching guide line on the 9. Cut the threads. [
5. Press the foot control.
6. Hold the fabric loosely and gently !i ii'i: i
guide it along the guide line, so To turn a square corner 5/8" from the
that it feeds naturally, fabric edge:
Do not force the fabric or try to 1, Stop stitching and lower the
pull it tight, needle by turning hand wheel
toward you when the fabric edge
facing you lines up with the
cornering guide, as shown.
2. Raise the presser foot and turn
the fabric to line the edge with
the 5/8" seam guide.
3. Lower the presser foot and begin
stitching in the new direction.
18
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• Topstitching
Stitch
I
1
I
Set the Machine
.co Left Needle Position
Stitch selector
es
Stitch length
control red
Stitch selector zone
Straight foot
Here's How
1. Lower the presser foot.

uid
2. Keep the edge of the fabric next

to the right edge of the presser
Top thread tension or foot.
control 2 to 6
Zigzag foot
3. Evenly
edge to
guide
produce
the fabric along this
an even row of
©
topstitching 3/8'" from the edge.
NOTE: You can easily adjust your Use Left Needle Position for more
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The Stitch and Its Uses

needle from center to left for
control while topstitching or edge
Topstitching emphasizes the lines of topstitching without moving
stitching difficult fabrics.
your garment and keeps seams and your fabric from under the
edges flat and crisp. NOTE: Use only zigzag presser
zigzag presser foot.
foot for Left Needle
Accent suits or blouses with one or
Sewing.
two rows of topstitching around the
all
outer edges of cuffs, lapels or collars.
19
• Sew in a Zipper
Fabric Preparation:
Set the Machine
Zipper teeth
Put the right sides of the fabric to- 1/8")
Stitch
gether and sew to the end of the zip-
Zipper tape
per opening. Use the reverse to lock I
I
the stitches. I
Sew the zipper opening with stitch

length at "4" and top thread tension Stitch length
at "'3"'. Stitch selector control 2
To Sew: 4. To sew the left side of the zipper,
1. Fold back the left seam allowance set the zipper foot on the left side
as shown. of the needle.
control 3 to 6
2. Turn under the right seam allow-
5. Lower the zipper foot on the right
ance to form a 1/8" fold. side at the bottom of the zipper
so that the needle pierces the fold
3. Place the zipper teeth next to the
and the zipper tape.
1/8" fold and pin in place.
6. Sew through the fold and the zip-
per tape to the point where the
slider begins.
7. Lower the needle to hold the fab-
ric and raise the presser foot.
2O
8. Open theztpper. 10. Close the zipper and turn the 11. To sew the right side of the zip- 14, Stop about 2" from the top of the
per, set the zipper foot on the zipper.
9. Lower the presser foot and stitch fabric right side up.
right side of the needle.
the rest of the seam. 15. Lower the needle into the fabric
12. Stitch across and below the bot- and raise the presser foot.
tom of the zipper.
16. Remove the basting stitches and
13. Turn the corner and continue to open the zipper.
INVISIBLE ZIPPER AND CORDING guide the foot along the zipper 17. Lower the foot and stitch the rest
! INVISIBLE ZIPPER teeth, as shown.
of the seam. Make sure the fold is
Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through Stitch through the fabric and
even.
the center hole of the foot and one groove of zipper tape.
the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper as
shown. Follow the zipper manufacturer's inst-
ructions. After zipper has been inserted, finish
sewing seam by shifting foot to side position
sewing through side notch,
CORDING
Foot can also be used to make cording for slip-

covers etc. Cover e cord with a strip of bias
fabric end sew as shown.
NOTE:
Use "Low Bar Sewing Machine ZIPPER FOOT"

(6757) for "'invisible zipper" end "cording",
which can be obtained at any Sears retail store.
21
Use the Darning Plate Darning
Set the Machine
Stitch
I
I
I
Stitch length
control any number
(not necessary to
Stitch selector adjust)
Sometimes when you sew, you want

to control the fabric youself.
Here's How
The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs
so that they do not touch the fabric. 1. Put the darning plate on the needle plate
No presser
Top thread tension
foot
To Put on the Darning Plate:
control 1 to 4
Darning plate 2. Remove presser foot and stretch fabric
NOTE: The rectangular holes in the
between embroidery hoops with hole
Darning Plate match the
centered.
holes in the needle plate. In
the darning plate, these 3. Draw the bobbin thread up through the
holes are slightly to the left fabric by holding the top thread and taking
of center. one stitch at the spot where you wish to
start darning.
1. Position the darning plate with
the 3 pins on the bottom. 4. Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow
speed.
2. Fit the darning plate pins into the
needle plate holes. The feed dogs 5. Move the fabric back and forth slowly until
will show through the darning you have covered the darning area.
plate holes. 6. Turn the fabric a half turn and sew another
Use the darning plate in the following layer of stitching over the first layer.
ways: Darning (P. 22) NOTE: If your fabric is thin or badly
Button Sewing (P. 25) damaged, use a separate piece of fabric
under the hole to reinforce it,
7. When you finish darning, remove the darning

22 plate.
Zigzag Stitches
Basic Zigzag Satin Stitch
Zigzag width :
Set the Machine Set the Machine
Close to 0
Stitch Stitch
Stitch length 2
Stitch selector _ntrul it_J Stitch selector Stitch
zone
length :
Top thread tension Zigzag foot Top thread tension Satin stitch foot
control 2 to 5 control 1 to 4
Here's How
The Stitch and Its Uses The Stitch and Its Uses
Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a scrap of
The zigzag stitch is one of the most The Satin stitch is a versatile and often the fabric you are planning to use. Too tight a satin stitch may pucker some light
common and most versatile stitches on used decorative stitch, but it can also weight fabrics.
your machine. It can be a utility stitch be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex-
There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch.
for sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem- ample, blankets, linens, tablecloths Consult the specific variations for detailed directions.
ming, overcasting, mending and darn- and napkins).
Satin Stitch p. 23
ing. It can also be used to decorate
The Satin stitch is especially attractive Applique Work p. 24
with trims, appliques and cut-out work Bar Tacking p. 24
in applique.
or as a decorative stitch. Button Sewing p. 25
Overcasting p, 26
Three-step zigzag p. 2__7
Rick-rack stretch p. 32
Overcast stretch p. 33
Serging p. 34
23
m
Zigzag Stitches (Continued)
• Applique Bar Tacking
Stitch Stitch
Stitch selector
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 1
Baste (or fuse with iron-on

.co
fabric
Stitch selector
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 1
This stitch is similar to a very short

HI •
es
joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. satin stitch and is used to reinforce
Stitch around the applique making points of strain such as corners or
Top thread tension Satin stitch foot sure the needle falls along the outer Top thread tension Zigzag foot pockets and straps on lingerie,
control 1 to 4 control 1 to 4
edge of the applique. Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches,
When sewing corners, lower the needle
down into the fabric. Raise the presser
foot and pivot the fabric to the right
uid
or left.
-g
all
24
Sew a Button
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch length control

any number (not
necessary to adjust)
Stitch selector
Zigzag foot
Use the darning plate for button sewing (see p. 22). To strengthen the shank, cut the
threads leaving a 20 cm (8") tail. Bring
1. Set the stitch selector at " CII _ ,,
the needle thread down through the
2. Align both holes of the button with the slot of the foot and place the left hole in the button and wind it around
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4 hole of the button just below the needle point. the shank.
Darning plate
3. Lower the foot and turn the stitch selector to zigzag until the needle point Draw the thread to the bottom side
comes just above the right hole of the button. and knot.
4. Sew about five stitches and raise needle.
5. Set the stitch selector at ,, c1_

I "again and sew a few stitches to lock thread.
25

• Overcasting Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch length
Stitch selector control 1 to 2
't j Helpful Hints
Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the

raw corner of your seam. If you start
Top thread tension Zigzag foot right at the edge, the fabric will bunch
control 1 to 4
up and the stitches will become
tangled.
This zigzag variation is very useful in

garment construction and in finishing
raw edges of any sewing project.
26
Three-Step Zigzag
Set the Machine
The three-step zigzag is a combination
Stitch
zigzag and straight stitch. You may use
the three-step zigzag everywhere you
would use the basic zigzag stitch, It
has more strength, elasticity, and is
Selector release flatter than a regular zigzag.
Stitch length mending

Stitch selector control 0.5 to 1
sewing patches smoothly and
securely,
Seam Finishing Mending
repairing straight tears.
Place the fabric under the presser foot Position the tear under the needle so
finishing seams.
so that the edge will be slightly inside that the stitching will catch both sides.
Top thread tension Zigzag foot the right hand side of the presserfoot.
control 1 to 4
Guide the work so the right hand
stitches fall at the edge of the fabric.
NOTE: Be sure to slide back the

selector release to the "SEW"
position.
27
• Blind Hemming
1/4"
Set the Ma_J_ine
Stitch
Light
Weight
Fabric
Selector retease
Stitch tength Heavy

Stitch selector control 1 to 3 Weight
Fabric j
1. Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desired. (See Overcasting, p. ?_66)
2. Measure, tUrn up your hem and pin.
Top thread tendon Zigzag foot NOTE: For light weight fabrics, you may need a double fold.
control 1 to 4
3. Fold the material (wrong side out) on the edge to be stitched, as shown, leaving 1/4" of the finished hem edge showing.
4. Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge. The zigzag stitd
should just catch the fold of the garment.
5. After hemming, press both sides of the finished hem. The top side of the garment will show only the blind stitches.
%_
NOTE; The blind hem stitch also can be used for Lace Work. (See p. 29)
position.
28
m
SECTION 3. LEARNTHE STITCHES
Lace Work
Stitch
Set the Machine
.co Shell Stitching
Stitch
Set the Machine
Here's How
1. For best effect:
--
-
set the stitch
desire.
you may need to tighten
length as you
the
es
top thread tension slightly.
Selector release
Selector release -- allow the needle to just
__._ clear the folded edge of the

!
I Stitch length fabric when it zigzags.
Stitch length Stitch selector control 1to 2
Stitch selector control 1 2. If you sew rows of shell stitches,
space the rows 1/2" apart.

can sew
uid
_. You Shell Stitch on knits or

soft silky wovens in any direction.
Top thread tension Zigzag foot Top thread tension Zigzag foot
control 1 to 4 control 3 to 9 The Stitch and Its Uses
._ _ Lace adds a fanciful, feminine touch __ _ The Shell

blind hem Stitch is formed
over folded by sewing
fabric. Several a
_ to blouses
linenSand
pillows andbecome
lingerie. more
Table elegant _ _ tucks.r°ws
of shell stitching are called shetl
when trimmed with lace. i
Shell stitching can be used to finish
-g

Turn raw edge of fabric under at least hems, sleeve and neck openings.
I/2". Place lace underneath and top- Shell tucking can be used to create
position.
stitch using stretch blind hem stitch, scalloped tucks on blouses and
Trim excess fabric close to stitching, lingerie.

all

selector release to the "SEW'"
position.
29
• Box Stitching
Set the Machine
Stitch
Selector release
Stitch length
Stitch selector control 1
Use this stitch to join heavy weight

interlining.
Top thread tension ZhTzagfoot use this stitch to join them.

control 1 to 4

position.
3O
• Fagoting Stitch Decorate with Geometric Patterns
Stitch Stitch
Selector release Selector release
I ! Stitch length
Stitch selector control 0.5 .to 2 Stitch selector green zone
F,G,H or I
Here's How Here's How
1. Fold under each fabric edge 5/8" 1. Adjust the stitch width and length
and press. as you desire.
Top thread tension Zigzag foot Top thread tension Satin stitch foot
control 3 to 8 2. Pin the two edges to paper or tear- control 1 to 4 2. Practice the stitch on a scrap of
away backing 1/8" apart. fabric.
3. Sew slowly, guiding the fabric so 3. Mark the line for decoration on
the needle catches the folded the fabric, using a washable fabric
edge on each side. marker,
4. Lower the needle at the starting

NOTE: Be sure to slide back the NOTE: Be sure to slide back the
point.
selector release to the "SEW" selector release to the "SEW"
position. position. 5. Lower the presser foot.
6. Gently guide the fabric along the

The Stitch and Its Uses The Stitches and Their Uses maked line.
Use this stitch to join two pieces of These stitches are purely decorative.
fabric to create an open work You can sew one row or several or
appearance and add design interest. vary the stitch width and length for
special effects.
Experiment on a scrap of fabric to see
what special effects are possible.
31
Stretch Stitches
StraightStretch • Rick-Rack Stretch
Stitch Stitch
III
III Stitch length
III
control brown
stretch stitch
Stitch selector position
Stitch length
control brown
stretch stitch
Stitch selector position
L__J
Straight foot
k__J The Stitch and Its Uses
Sew on stretch fabrics i n any area that

you might use a zigzag stitch.
Top thread tension or Top thread tension Zigzag fooz
control 2 to 6 control t to 4
Zigzag foot This stitch can be used as a decorative
! top stitch as well.
\
The stretch stitch does not
actually stretch as it is being
sewn, but is stitched in a
The Stitch and Its Uses forward and back motion
This stitch is the stretch variation of (sometimes called a "reverse-
the straight stitch, especially develop- action" stitch), so that it will

ed for knits and stretch fabrics. give when the fabric stretches
Stretch stitch can be used on other !nstead of break!ng_ Th!s st!tch
fabrics as well. It works well on can also be used for topstitching
curved seams and on any garments on all fabrics.
that will receive a great deal of strain
(ie. children's clothes).
32
Smocking Overcast Stretch Stitching
Stitch Stitch
stit le.gth
control brown
brown stretch stitch stretch stitch
Stitch selector position Stitch selector position
Here's How
L_J [__l Place the raw edge of the fabric to

the LEFT of the needle as shown.
Top thread tension Zigzag foot Top thread tension Zigzag foot
control 1 to 4 control 1 to 4 Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric
$ With the stitch length at "4", sew

just short of the outside edge.
Or, place your fabric

seam,
after.
then trim
to allow a 5/8"
seam allowance
Raw or worn edges of older garments

straight stitching lines 3/8" apart
NOTE: Be sure to slide back the NOTE: Be sure to slide back the can be overcast to prevent further
across the area to be smocked,
selector release to the "SEW" selector release to the "SEW" raveling.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull
3osition. position.
the bobbin threads and distribute the NOTE: Use a blue stretch fabric
gathers evenly. Secure the threads at The Stitch and Its Uses needle, which effectively
the other end. Sew the decorative prevents skipped stitches.
This stitch can be used for sewing a
stitch between the gathering stitches.
seam with an overcast finish.
Pu II out the gathering stitches.
The seam is formed and finished in
NOTE: Loosen the top thread one operation. It can be used when
tension to make gathering you are making swimwear, ski pants
easier. and other garments that require
stretch.
33
m
, /
• Serglng or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching Elastic Stretch Stitch

/-
Set the Machine Setthe Machine
Stitch Stitch
:
.co
N "il
Stitch length Stitch length

I control brown I control brown
stretch stitch s_retcn stitch
Stitch selector position Stitch selector position
'i
Here's How
es
Place the fabric under the presser
foot so that the stitches are made /i••
Top thread tension Zigzag foot

ever theedge. control 1 t_4
Or, place your fabric to aglow a 5/8"

seam, then trim seam allowance
after.
NOTE:
uid
When using stretch knit

fabric, use a blue stretch
NOTE: Be sure to slide back the fabric needle which NOTE: Be sure to slide back the
selector release to the "'SEW'" effectively prevents selector release to the "SEW"
Choose this stitch to attach elastic to
position. skipped stitches. position.
garments.
The Stitch and Its Uses 1. Mark the elastic into quarters and
Use this stitch when you want a match these to the center front,
center back and side seams.
narrow seam that you do not need to
press open fiat. It s ideal for 1/4"
-g
2, Place the middle of the elastic

seams on knits or on medium to under the center of the presser
heavyweight woven fabrics where you foot and stitch into place, making ' :
want a narrow seam. It is also great sure the fabric is evenly distri- .
for making elastic swim wear. buted. :
all
34
• Herring Bone Stretch Decorative Stretch Patterns
Stitch Stitch
Selector release
o.t^_ .... ! ....
! Stitch length Stitch length

control brown l coFIt rol Drown
stretch st=tch stretch stitch
Stitch selector Stitch selector
position oosition
F, G,H or
Here's How The Stitch and Its Uses
Place
3/8"
the
from
fabric
the edge.
top side up, and sew
I____J Decorative stretch patterns can be used
for adding creative and personalised
Top thread tension Zigzag foot Top thread tension Zigzag foot touch to the items you sew for your
control 1 to 4 Trim close to stitching. The stitch will control 1 to 4
prevent raveling. home and family.
You can decorate children's clothes,
women's blouses, curtains, etc.
The Stitch and Its Uses NOTE: Be sure to slide back the
selector release to the "SEW'"
Use as hemming stitch for blankets,
position,
tablecloth and draperies.
35
Buttonholes
Set the Machine
Stitch
U
Stitch selector blue zone
1. a. Carefully mark the buttonhole 2. a. Move the slider (A) toward you
3. a. Set the stitch selector at _ .
length on yourgarment, so that the top _nark [C} on _he I_. Sew forward until yo_rreach the
b, _,,=Hy=
_ .... tO the ..................
_IIIU|ll_ UU I.I.UI I! IU|l_ slider meet_ th_ start mark (B) front marking of your bu[£on-
Top thread tension S|[d]ng buttonhole f0ot. b. Line up the markings on the hole.
control 1 to 5 foot
foot with the top mark on your
c, Insert the garment under the c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
foot with the buttonhole mark- garment.
ing running toward you. c. Lower the presser foot.
NOTE: The markings on the slider

are engraved in centimeters.
Adjusting the Stitch Density
Depending upon your fabric or your
own preference in buttonholes, you
may a{ter the buttonhole stitch
density within _he blue _ttenhole
range on the stitch
(_ For more density,
length dial.
turn the dial
Q
toward "0". stitches stitches
@ For less density, turn the dial Fine
for light H _ Coarse
for heavy
fabrics fabrics
toward "1 ".
NOTE: Always make a practice but-
tonhole on a scrap of fabric
you plan to use to find the
more suitable stitch length,
36
_ _ • _ , i ¸
" <>
t_ [1
7. Remove the fabric and cut the hole
4, a. Set the stitch selector at 5. a. Set the stitch selector at 131 6. a. Set the stitch selector at _J
m
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. open with the buttonhole opener.
b. Sew until you reach the back
c. Stop sewing at the right stitch marking of the buttonhole.

c. Stop sewing at tne left stitch.
e. Stop sewing at the right stitch.
....
NOTE :
When sewing at the edge of fabric, set

sliding buttonhole foot as illustrated
E and sewin reverse( ___>r__,lr_--_r_ ).
LI _ U _
37
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Bent or blunt needle. Insert new needle.
Skipping Stitches Incorrect setting of needle. Reset needle.
Tight upper thread tension. Loosen upper thread tension.
Starting to stitch too fast. Start to stitch at a medium speed.

Improper threading. Rethread machine.
Tight upper thread tension. Loosen upper thread tension.
Breaking Upper Thread Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Sharp eye in needle. Insert new needle.
Nicks or burrs on shuttle. Replace shuttle, or polish off burrs completely.
Nicks o_bun_ at hole of_eedle plate_ Rep!ane needlep_ po!isl_of_burr_€on_y.
Breaking Bobbin Thread Improl_er bobbin case threading. Check bobbin case threading.
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle, Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
Darning plate in place. Remove darning plate.

Stitch Length set at 0. Adjust Stitch Length Control.
Fabric not Moving
Thread knotted under fabric. Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning
to stitch.
Thread caught in shuttle. Disassemble and clean shuttle.

Machine Jamming Knocking Noise
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle. Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
38
m
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
.co
What to Do When (Continued)
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Improper threading. Rethread machine.
Loose upper thread tension. Tighten upper thread tension.
Irregular Stitches Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
es
Loose pr_ RA_Rt pr_Ar fnnt
Unevenly wound bobbin. Rewind bobbin
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.

Breaking Needle Reset needle.
Incorrect setting of needle.
Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot,
uid
Upper and lower threads not drawn back When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and
Bunching of Thread under presser foot before starting seam. back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitchs are
formed.
Incorrect thread tension(s). Reset thread tension(s).

Using two different sizes or kinds of thread. Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind.
Puckering Bent or blunt needle. , 1 Insert new needle.
Fabric very sheer or very soft. Use underlay of tissue paper.

-g
all
39
SECTION 5, CARE FOR THE MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb Cleaning the Machine
To insure that your machine operates at its best, you need to keep the essential parts clean at all times.
The feed dogs and shuttle race areas can attract dust and lint. Your machine can become sluggish or knock loudly if a thread
is caught.
Check and clean those areas about every three months under normal use.
If you sew frequently, clean more often.
• Clean the Feed Dogs
1. Unplug the machine and open the

face cover.
CAUTION! The light bulb could be

HOT. Protect your
fingers when you handle Follow these directions:
it.
Unplug the machine. Remove 2. Use a lint brush to clean the feed 3. Replace needle plate.
2. Push the bulb up and turn the presser foot and needle, dogs,
bulb counter-clockwise to remove Using a screw driver, remove
it. needle plate.
3; Put the new bulb in by pushing it

up and turning it clockwise.
40
SECTION 5. CARE FOR THE MACHINE
• Clean the Shuttle Race
This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Clean the shuttle race area
about every three months.
Center pin of
the shuttle Shuttle driver
Lever
Lever
Lever
Shuttle Race
Lever
(Oil here) Shuttle Race
Bobb Cover
case
To Clean the Shuttle Area: To Replace Shuttle Assembly:
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest !, Position shuttle race as illustrated so that shuttle
point and remove the bobbin case: driver is forming half moon on the left side of the
machine.
2. Push shuttle race levers aside. Lift
shuttle race cover and take shuttle out. 2. Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as
3. Clean the shuttle race with a lint to form a half moon on the right side. Pointed hook
will be on the bottom.
brush.
3. Place shuttle race cover into place over shuttle
4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of
the shuttle and shuttle race. Do not assembly.
over-oil. 4. Snap the levers back into the original position.
41
SECTION 5. CARE FOR THE MACHINE
Oiling the Machine
Oil the machine in all areas shown on this page at least once a year; otherwise the machine can become sluggish or will knock loudly. If you use the machine
frequently, oil the machine under the top cover about every three months. In case machine is not used for an extended time, oil it before sewing. Use good quality
sewing machine oil. One or two drops of oil is sufficient. Remove excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabric.
Kenmore sewing machine oil is available at your nearest Sears retail store.
NOTE: Unplug the machine before oiling. Remove needle and put needle bar in full down position.
• Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the Arm Cover Plate • Oil the Underside
Arm cover plate
Face cover plate

I
I
Shuttle cover
Open face cover plate and/or remove arm cover plate by loosening top screw to oil points Open the shuttle cover by pulling down the embossed part on
in illustration. the left side of the cover. Tilt the machine head back and
Use only a drop of oil; do not over-oil. remove bottom cover. Oil points in illustration.
42
PARTS LIST
All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears store or service center.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING

1 2 5 6 INFORMATION:
1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION

3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM
/ ' t J
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically
i_ / i
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.
Ref. No. Part No. Description
1 47 Shuttle
8 9 10 11 12 2 6510 Bobbin case
3 *6862 Bobbin box with 10 bobbins
4 1939 Bobbin winder rubber ring
5 8134O4013 No. 11 Stretch fabric needles (BLU)
6551 No. 11 Single needles (ORG)
6552 No. 14 Single needles (RED)
6553 No. 16 Single needles (PUR)
6554 No. 18 Single needles (GRN}
6 801506008 Needle clamp with screw
7 648801108 Sliding buttonhole foot
13 14 15 16
,ii 8 650802014 Straight stitch foot
9 735503018 Standard zigzag foot
10 6870 Satin stitch foot
11 593401008 Zipper foot
12 *6757 Zipper foot
13 135 Thumb screw
14 *6864 Needle threader
15 6797 Light bulb
16 6830 Buttonhole opener
17 19 20 _ _ 17 802424004 Lint brush
18 820832005 Large screw driver
19 41669 Small screw driver
20 *6889 Oil and lint brush
21 735801008 Darning plate
*These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be ordered per
instructions above.
• 43
INDEX
m
A Feed dogs ....................... 40 S
Foot control .................... 4_5 Satin stitch foot .......... 4, 23_24, 31,43
Accessory storage box ............... 3, 7
Free arm sewing .................... 7 Satin stitch ...................... 23
Adjusting stretch stitch balance ......... 16
Applique ........................ 24 Seam guides ...................... 18
H
Arm cover plate ................... 42 Serging ......................... 34
Hand wheel ..................... 3, 17 Sewing light ....................... 5
B Herring bone stretch ................ 35 Shell stitching .................... 29
.co
Shuttle ....................... 41,43
Bar tacking ...................... 24
I Shuttle cover ..................... 3, 9
Basic zigzag ...................... 23
Shuttle race ...................... 41
Blind hemming .................... 28 Invisible zipper .................... 21
Sliding buttonhole foot ....... 4, 36_37, 43
Bobbin ................... 4, 9_10, 43
L Small screw driver ................. 4, 43
Bobbin case ............... 9_10, 41, 43
Smocking ....................... 33
Bobbin thread .................. 12_13 Lace work ....................... 29
Spool pin ....................... 3, 6
Bobbin winding ................. 9_10 Large screw driver ................. 4, 43
Stitch length control ............... 3, 16
Bobbin winding tension disc .......... 3, 10 Light and power switch ............. 4_5 Stitch selector ................... 3, 15
Bobbin winding spindle ............. 3, 10 Light bulb ................... 5, 40, 43
Straight stitch .................. 1B_l 9
Box stitching ..................... 30 Lint brush ................... 4, 40, 43
Straight stitch foot ........... 4, 19, 32, 43
es
Buttonhole .................... 36 _37
D...... k^l ....... 4 37 43 N Straight stretch ................... 32
I_j ttt2n _€_wing ...... 25
T
Needle clamp screw .............. 4, 7, 43
C
Needle plate .................... 3, 40
Thread cutter ..................... 3, 6
Cabinet .......................... 3 Needle, thread and fabric chart .......... 8 Thread guide .................... 3, 11
Carrying handle .................... 4
Thread take-up lever ............... 3, 11
O Thread tensions ................. 13_14
Changing needle .................... 7
Three-step zigzag .................. 27
Changing presser foot ................ 7 Oiling .......................... 42
uid
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race .... 40_41

Topstitching ..................... 19
Overcasting stitch .................. 26
Clutch knob .................. 4, 9, 10 Top thread .................... 11 _14
Overcast stretch stitching ............. 33 Top thread tension ......... ...... 13_14
Cording ........................ 21
Cornering guide ................... 18 P Top thread tension control ............. 3
Turn a square corner ................ 18
Parts list ........................ 43
D
Performance problems chart ......... 38_39
Darning ........................ 22 Pine leaf stretch stitching ............. 34
Darningptate: :. :: ;:;: : :: 4; 19;22;25;43 Piugconnector_ _ _ _;;; ;;..;i ; i ._; 4_5 Zigzagfoot ,;;,.;,_;,,,t_t9;23_35,43
Portable case ...................... 3 Zigzag stitches .................. 23_31
E Power switch ...................... 5 Zipper application ............... 20_21
-g
Elastic stretch stitch ................ 34 Presser foot ....................... 4 Zipper foot ............... 4, 20_21,43
Extension table ................... 3, 7 Presser foot lever .................. 4, 6
F R
Fabirc, needle, thread and stitch Replacing bobbin case ............. 9_10
length chart B Reverse stitch control .............. 3, 14
Face cover plate .................. 3, 42 Rick rack stretch .................. 32
all
44
___411_ "_IFl_ 'lllb_ '_i" _ 'III'

_ 'lib'_ 'till'
_ "llb _ 'llh_ 11111.
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_ "III I _FII
*I '_lll_ '_lh _ IIIi_ qll, _ "llh _ "IPII.
_ IIII _ 'llbl_ 'III I 'Ii_ -IIII,..Ip_l
I 'IIIi
I "PlhI dlb- I qll 41- 'Jl_,_ 'llh
+ ÷
# #
+ +
WARRANTY +
FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD

# +
For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears wilt, free of ch_ge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear
---" in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head. #
__-= #
__=
FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE
il For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which -_
appear in the electrical equipment of the sewing machine, including electronic components, motor, wiring, switch and ()
# speed control #
FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS

P
For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears wil!. free of charge, replac_ any parts and p_o_ide mechanical se_ice
_1 necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance.
WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING THE SEWING MACHINE TO THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE -
CENTER!DEPARTMENT IN THE UNITED STATES. l_
0 This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., D/817 WA, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179
_-="
SEWING MACHINE
Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts
or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when
you call or visit.
The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of
your Sewing Machine. See page 4 for location.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS G VE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
_PARTNUMBER =PANi DESCRiPTiON *MODEL NUMBER =NAMEOF iTEM
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears
Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A.
S-385 Printed in Taiwan Part No.735806302

1.You' fnd the spool pn on the top

cover.
Pul!
PUl! ul the spool pin,
up the spool pin,
2. Plug footfoot control
control into
into machine
machine "_ _/t///f_
rocep=c
Then
e co,nect
cordnto
Then connect cord into // 21
any 110 _ 120 volt A,C. wall outlet,
any110 _120 volt A, :. wall outlet, _'_ If _'_/
3 Your
Your Kenmore sewing sewillg machine
mach ne has _ "_1 _ II
been
been thoroughty
thoroughty oiled
oile( at
at the
the factory.
factory. _ xJ H
Be sure to wipe off the needle plate
• b_e sew_n_
surplus oil is absorbed.
i I
STRAIGI_T cl _ RED ZONE 2 TO 6 A or C
_r-- Selector Release
ZIGZAG STITCH SELECTOR m__
• A ^ ^ 1. Slide"RELEASE'* right There are certain types Of stitches that are used Setting mark (_,_.......,.
THREE-STEP Z GZAG \ / V V \ 2. Selact _attem
Slide ' RELEASE"
"A"
left
I. SIIde*'RELEASE'_ right more often than others in your garment con- k_
BLIND (STRETCH} 2..le= I_attern "S"- r _T03 l 1TO4 I A
struction. Because of their frequent use, you will
3. Slide "RELEASE:" left / _ I soon realize the ccnvenience offered to you by
1 S{ide "RELEASE" right' . _ - I .... / --
SHELL this control, The desired stitch will be obtained
2. SIde"RELEASE"left
3
Select pstlern"C : 1 /UZ 3_U_ I A
1. Sli_e _RE LEASE" right
by turningthe Stitch Selector.
BOX " _.- _-_ 2 Sabot em *'O _' ,
1. _kI_"FIEL_=ASE " right

2. Sele_ t_e_ "E _'
FAGOTING STITCH 3. Stide "_aE LEASE" !_ft
1)
I Slide "RELI_ASE" right BROWN
2 Select pattern "C '
3. SI_e'RELEASE left pOS T ON
1, Slide "RELEASE" right
2. Select ttern "D_" " BROWN
3. Stide"_a_L_ASE" left POS TION
t. Slide "RELEASE' rgh_ • BROWN
2 Setect ern "_E'_
3. Slide =_tEl_EASE'[eft : PosITION
ial.
FOS!_i0N , .....
CARE FREE STITCHING

de/gends on the BIG and the LITTLE
SHUTTLE OILING
_ NEEDLES
THREADING _ EEDING
TENSION
V r
FEEDING OILING
(MATERIAL DOESN'T The more you use your machine, the
Clean in and around the shuttle and feed less often it needs oil. If you have not
FEED PROPERLY)
dogs to remove accumulated dust and lint used your machine for a few months,
I
F
which may cause NOISE OR JAMMING. Check and it seems sluggish, oil your machine.
stitch length.
Periodically oil at points indicated in
your instruction book. USE ONLY
i+ KENMORE SEWING MACHINE OIL.
P
Flat
,:(,= o°+°[
,,I )
side
away
from
you
TENSION _ -
_) HREADING
THREAD CAN unthread
thread breaks, TANGLE andAND
then SNAP without thebeing
RETHREAD seen. both
machine, If your
top Compare your straight stitching with the illustrations. If it looks like either
and bottom threads, of the top two, correct the thread tension dial as shown.
BE SURE TO NOTE YOUR PRESENT SETTING BEFORE YOU START
TOP THREADING Bo'rroM THREADING
Make sure there is no slack or 1. Insert bobbin with thread wound as shown and ADJUSTING. _
snags in the thread. Use the guide bobbin onto center pin of bobbin case.
type of thread and size needle 2, Pull thread through slot. _I_II_ t _ _ Decrease tension
recommended in your instruc- 3. Pull thread uader tension spring. Upper thread too tight
tion book. Thread should 4. Holding latch open, position case into shuttle,
come off the back of the and release latch.
spoo| as shown+
Correct stitching
COMPLETING THREADING
Hold top thread loosely in left hand and rotate
handwheel toward you one complete turn. Bring IMPORTANT
bottom thread up and next, pull top and bottom
For your safety an important new feature has been incorporated in this machine.
threads under and to the back of presser foot.
The light/power switch provides electric current for the motor as well as the light,
In order to operate the machine this switch must be on.
If you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattended, just
turn off the light/power switch and the machine can not be started accidentally by
pressing on the foot control. This feature also applies when the machine is in
storage.
The foot control is used to vary the machine speed from zero to high.
h
OPTIONAL FEET AND ATTACHMENT (SEWING MACHINE SOURCE 385)

(A) (B) " (C)
SEWING MACHINE SEWING MACHIN E PART DESCRIPTION
MODEL NO PART NO__
10111, 11541, 11551, 11581, 200012104 Hemmer Foot
11607, 11682, 12320, 12321, 214872000 Walking Foot
12331, 12332, 12490, 12491, (Even Foot)
12492, 12493, 12541, 1258'1,
m
941450000 Pin-Tuck Foot
12641, 12712, 12714, 12741,
941460000 Gathering Foot
12781, 12841, 16951, 17622,
941620000 Ruffler
17781, 17881,
.co
15841, 16841, 17641,1 17824, 200002008 Piping Foot
17922, 17928, 200003009 Gathering Foot
200005001 Pin-Tucking Foot
200013105 Hemmer Foot
200027102 Binder Foot
20O0301O8 1/4" Seam Foot
214872000 Walking Foot
es
654805008 Embroidery Foot
941620000 Ruffler
I I
18836, 18841, 19150,1 19501, 200002008 Piping Foot
19502, 19601. 200003009 Gathering Foot
uid
200005001 Pin-Tucking Foot

200013105 Hemmer Foot
200027102 Binder Foot
200028103 Roller Foot
200029104 Teflon Foot
200030108 1/4" Seam Foot
-g
200031109 Applique Foot

200032100 Cording Foot
214872000 Walking Foot
654805008 Embroidery Foot
941620000 Ruffler
all
15641. 16641, ML-330555 Elastic Foot

200201009 Piping Foot
200209100 Blind Hem Foot
200210104 Taping Foot With Tape

Reel
200212106 Cording Foot

340522N Pearl Sewing Foot
All parts listed above may be ordered by calling Sears Teleparts
When ordering repair pads, always qive the following information.

oo nter at 1 (800)366-7278.
1. Part Number (SEECOLUMN B)

2. Part Description (SEE COLUMN C)
3. Model Numberof SeWing Machine: Example (385. xxxxx)
4. Name of Item (SEWING MACHINE)
f the parts you need are not stocked locally your order witl be el_ectronically transmitted to the Sears Parts
D str bution Center for expedited handling. 735 811-OO1
'ORTANT
To reduce the elcctri_ shock:
I
i
*The plug is intended t_ ! it in a polarized outlet only one way.

If the plug does not fi_ f _lly in the outlet, reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, 4ol tact a qualified electrician to install
the
Do proper outlet tl_e pl t_g
not modify tny way.
/
Replace foot controlle_ /ith the same type.
Foot Controller: MODE L YC-482P or YC-30
l

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All manuals and user guides at all-guides.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model number and serial

Model No. 385. Serial No.

THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

DA N G ER- To reduce the risk of electric shock;

Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not

TABLE •OF CONTENTS

SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE Zigzag Stitches ........................... 23_31

SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE

A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available Locate and Identify the Parts

A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your

Stitch Length Control

Thread Cutter Reverse Stitch Control

Identify the Accessories

Hand Wheel nhole opener

Auto Clutch Knob

_ Large screw driver

Plug Connector Darning plate

all screw driver

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine

385.1148xxx, 385.1158xxx, 385.1168xxx, 385.1258xxx, 385.1268xxx,

x xx - represents numbers 000 through 999."

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine (Continued) Choose the Needle and Thread

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

• Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart

• Check the Needle

1. Look for barbed or blunt point.

2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in

Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and

toward you to stop the needle from

Raise needle to its highest position

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

• Wind the Bobbin (Continued)

• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Prepare the Top Thread

1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Pick Up the Bobbin Thread

handwheel toward you one complete to 6 inches of thread clear.

1. Is needle threaded from front to back?

2. Is thread tangled around needle?

3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?

4. Is thread from shuttle tanglecl?

5. Is bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case?

6. Is the machine threaded according to the instructions?

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Adjust the Top Thread Tension

Choose the Correct Tension:

Top side of fabric The best tension will depend on;

For Straight Stitch

Tension is too loose: Tension is too tight:

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING