V4H Rev2 Setup

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PeeCeeBee V4H Rev2 Amplifier Assembly/Setup Guide

AUGUST 2020
shaan

Hello!

(If you do not understand part of the following text or face any problem during setup
then please let me know in the group-buy thread or through private message in diyAudio
or send an email to s4shaan2244@gmail.com or shaanpeeceebee@gmail.com)

Note1: This guide focuses on the process of


populating and biasing of the PeeCeeBee V4H Rev2 amplifier
PCBs. There are many other steps in assembling a complete
amplifier successfully, that are not covered in this
document. It is expected that the user has prior knowledge
of assembling amplifiers.

Note2: The LEDs are not power indicators. They are


part of the current sources for the input stage. If they
are not installed the amplifier will misbehave.

Section 1: Assembly

In the next page you will find the component placement


indication table. Follow the indication and solder the
components accordingly to their places. Due to the PCBs being
2.4mm thick and most pads being small, a 35Watt iron with 3mm
tip is recommended.

To avoid components getting in the way of the iron tip


during soldering on the top layer, this sequence can be used:

1. Small resistors
2. Diodes and LEDs
3. Terminals and pins
4. Small signal transistors
5. Ceramic and film capacitors
6. Trimmer resistors
7. MOSFETs
8. Medium size transistors
9. Big resistors
10.Electrolytic capacitors

(It's better to solder the MOSFETs before the medium size transistors
because the back-side of all six bottom layer transistors need to be
levelled to each other for fixing them later to the heatsink easily.)
Component Placement Indication Table For PeeCeeBee V4H Rev2:
(Excluding Pins and Terminals)

RESISTORS:
R1,R11,R12,R15,R16 1K
R2 10K
R13,R14,R17,R18,R31,R32 2K2
R3,R4,R9,R10,R27,R28,R29,R30 100R
R5,R6,R7,R8,R39,R40 4K7
R19,R20 33K
R21,R22 470R
R23,R24 10R
R25,R26 47R
R33,R34 10R 1W
R35,R36,R37,R38 0.1R 5W
VR1,VR2,VR3 500R Trimmer

CAPACITORS:
C1 100pF
C2 1uF
C3,C4,C13,C14,C19,C20,C21,C22 100nF
C5,C6,C23,C24,C25,C26,C27,C28 47pF
C7,C8 220pF
C9,C10 2200uF
C11,C12,C15,C16,C17,C18 220uF

SEMICONDUCTORS:
Q1,Q3,Q5,Q7 BC556B(PNP)
Q2,Q4,Q6,Q8 BC546B(NPN)
Q9 KSE350(PNP)
Q10 KSE340(NPN)
Q11,Q13 2SK1058(N-Ch.)
Q12,Q14 2SJ162(P-Ch.)
D1,D2 1N4007
D3,D4 BAV21
D5,D6 1.8V LED
Section 2: Setup

Preliminary Steps: (Before powering up)

a. Turn VR1 and VR2 to maximum resistance (turning


clockwise) and VR3 to zero resistance (turning anti-
clockwise). Do not overturn as it may damage the
trimmers. Resistance is measured between pin 1 and 2.

b. Mount the assembled board on a suitable heatsink with


mica or other insulation and make sure that the metal
backs of the bottom layer semiconductors do not have
a short to the heatsink. Test the continuity between
the output terminal and heatsink body to confirm.

c. Make sure that the heatsink is connected to power-


supply's 0V ground. Without this, the amplifier may
start oscillating when powered and may burn the zobel
resistors.

d. Keep the J1 and J2 jumpers “open”. i.e. jumper shunts


not connected. Keep the input open.

e. The two Ground terminals PGND and SGND must be


connected to the power supply 0V ground, either
directly via dedicated wire from each terminal, or
SGND connected to PGND with a wire, and then PGND
connected to power supply ground with another wire.
(Note: SGND IS NOT SPEAKER RETURN GROUND! Speaker
return must be directly connected to 0V ground on
power supply module!)

f. Connect power supply rails to the board's “++VCC” and


“VEE--” terminals with a 1R/2Watt resistor in series
with each power rail to the amplifier.
(Two 1R/2Watt resistors needed)

g. Set the mumtimeter to mV (millivolt) measurement and


connect the probes to the two legs of either R25 or
R26. Probe polarity doesn't matter.

h. Make sure that the power supply has fuses.


8A/10A rated fuses are fine. Fast-blow types are
recommended.
After doing all the above, turn on mains power for 1
second and then turn it off. The LEDs should be lit and
depending on transistors' DC gain the multimeter may show a
few millivolt or zero. This is normal.

Slightly touch the 1R/2Watt rail series resistors. If


they feel warm or the fuses were blown or the LEDs didn't
light up, then disconnect power supply from the board, and
check for component misplacement, or short between output
terminal and heatsink or shorted solder joints. If the
resistors are not warm, the fuses are intact and LEDs are lit,
then we are okay to proceed to trimming.

VAS biasing:

Turn on power and notice multimeter reading. The voltage


it shows in millivolt indicates the current flowing through
R25/R26 i.e. the VAS bias current in milliampere, which needs
to be 10mA, and for which this reading needs to be 470mV.

Turn VR1 and VR2 trimmers “anti-clockwise”, two turns


each time for both trimmers, you should see the reading to
increase slowly (If it doesn't increase instantly as you start
turning the trimmers then don't worry. Depending on DC gain of
the transistors used, sometimes they need more turns to gain
control of the VAS bias).

Turning both trimmers equally every time is important for


fastest setup. Hence, if VR1 is turned twice, then VR2 should
also be turned twice. Soon the reading will start to increase,
and when it shows about 400mV, stop turning. Turn off power
and carefully remove the probes.

VAS bias is trimmed less than 470mV because as the


amplifier warms up later, the VAS bias will increase slowly
and will reach optimum bias in 5-10 minutes.

Offset trimming:

Keep the multimeter in mV setting and connect the


negative(black) probe to power supply's 0V terminal and the
positive(red) probe to amplifier output terminal. Turn on the
amplifier, and check the initial reading and notice the
polarity of the reading.
If it shows a positive polarity then slowly turn VR1
anti-clockwise and VR2 clockwise. If it shows negative
polarity then turn the trimmers the opposite way. See this
table below for clear indication.

METER READING POLARITY TRIMMER TURN DIRECTION


Positive VR1 Anti-Clockwise, VR2 Clockwise
Negative VR1 Clockwise, VR2 Anti-Clockwise

The trimmers should be turned in small steps and both


trimmers should be turned equally every time. This will make
sure that the VAS vias doesn't change too much while trimming,
and offset comes close to zero volts quickly. Stop turning as
soon as the meter shows offset within +/-2mV. Turn off power
and carefully remove the probes.

MOSFET biasing:

Keep the multimeter in mV setting and connect the probes


to the two legs of any one of the 1R rail resistors (probe
polarity doesn't matter. Turn on power. The reading should
show around 15mV. This indicates the total amplifier current.
For 200mA total MOSFET bias and 15mA of input+VAS bias, it
needs to read 215mV.

Slowly turn VR3 “clockwise” while keeping an eye on the


reading. After turning 5-6 times it should start increasing.
Stop turning as soon as the reading shows 215mA.

Now keep the multimeter connected, let the amplifier warm


up and notice the reading. Depending on heatsink size the bias
will slowly increase with time. After 10-15 minutes the warm
state bias may be more than 300mA. Turn VR3 anticlockwise and
bring the reading to 215mV. Next time when the amplifier
starts from cold state, it will have a lower bias than 200mA
and in a few minutes it will reach the trimmed bias of 215mA.

Now turn off the amplifier, close J1 and J2, remove the
two 1R rail resistors and connect the rails directly to the
amplifier, connect test speakers (not main speakers), connect
input, turn on power and play some music. If everything is
okay then turn it off, connect main speakers and enjoy.
__________________

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