Freehand Stroke

1. Use your dominant hand to hold the razor. Rest

the handle between the third and fourth fingers, while resting the little finger on the end of the
tang. The thumb should rest firmly on the side of the shank close to the shoulder of the blade.
2. The hand should be turned somewhat outward from the wrist with the elbow at a level that is
comfortable.
3. Be sure the fingers of your other hand are clean and dry, so as to allow you to hold or stretch the
skin without slipping.

Backhand Stroke

4. At the pivot, hold the shank of the razor

securely between your thumb and first two fingers while holding the razor in a reasonably
straight position.
5. Rest your third and fourth fingers on the backside of the handle.
6. Position the back of your hand away from you while bending the wrist slightly downward. Your
elbow should be raised in order for your arm to be able to have the freedom of movement.

7. Additional approach: With a slightly bent handle, rest the third finger on the end of the tang, while
the fourth finger is bent into the palm. This position is used when the barber/stylist favours
performing the backhand stroke with movement of the arm versus the movement of the wrist. If
wrist movement is preferable simply do not hold the arm as high.
 8. Be sure the fingers of your other hand are clean and dry, so as to allow you to hold or stretch the
skin taut without slipping. The skin under the razor should be stretched opposite the direction of
the stroke.
9. Strokes are to be lead by the point of the razor as you are performing short, gliding strokes away
from you in a forward movement.

Reverse Freehand

10. Securely hold the razor in the freehand position.

11. Turn your hand towards you so that the edge of the razor is facing upwards.
12. Be sure the fingers of your opposite hand are clean and dry, so as to allow you to hold or stretch
the skin taut without slipping while the razor strokes are performed.
13. Place your fingers below or on the backside of the razor opposite to the edge of the blade, as well
as the direction of the stroke.
14. Perform gliding movements towards you while using semi-curved strokes.
15. To perform this movement, use the forearm with little twist to your wrist.

Reverse Backhand Stroke

16. Securely hold the razor in the backhand position while

turning the wrist so that the palm is positioned upwards.
17. Allow the elbow to fall downwards so it is positioned to the side.
18. Your opposite hand should be positioned comfortably so as to pull the skin taut when the razor
strokes pass over the skin.
19. With your hand positioned on top of the razor, you will perform fluid gliding movements.
20. You will perform downward strokes down the sides of the neck.
Note: The right handed barber performs this stroke on the left side, from behind the ear and down the side
of the neck. Whereas the left handed barber performs it on the right side, from behind the ear, and down
the side of the neck.

Shaving Areas
In order to perform a facial shave in a systematic way, the shave zones are divided into fourteen specific
areas. It is important to learn the order and direction in which each of these fourteen areas are to be
shaved, as well as knowing which razor stroke is to be used in each area.

The diagram photo below outlines the fourteen areas of the facial shave and shows which stroke is used
in each. A left handed barber will invert the diagram, beginning on the left side.

21. Free-hand
22. Back-hand
23. Free-hand
24. Free-hand
25. Reverse free-hand
26. Back-hand
27. Back-hand
28. Free hand
29. Back-hand
30. Reverse free-hand
31. Free-hand
32. Free-hand
33. Reverse free-hand
34. Reverse free-hand

Exercise
Sketch and label the diagram above on a head sheet or a mannequin to familiarize yourself with the
fourteen shaving areas.

The table below has been created as a quick reference guide to assist the student stylist/barber in
learning the strokes and directions that are to be used in each of the fourteen areas. The left of this chart
informs the right handed barber of the appropriate stroke and direction; whereas the right side of the
chart informs the left handed barber.

Shaving Area Stroke and Direction Chart

Right-Handed Left-Handed
Position and
Shaving Area Stroke Direction Barber: Area of Barber: Area of
Stroke
Face Face
Start at RIGHT Start at LEFT
sideburn move sideburn move
1 Freehand Down towards the towards the
jawbone and angle jawbone and angle
of mouth. of mouth.
From the angle of From the angle of
2 Backhand Down the mouth move the mouth move
towards the chin. towards the chin.
From the centre of From the centre of
the upper lip the upper lip
3 Freehand Down towards the towards the LEFT
RIGHT corner of corner of the
the mouth. mouth.
RIGHT jawbone LEFT jawbone to
4 Freehand Down
to grain change. grain change.
RIGHT side of LEFT side of neck
5 Reverse Freehand Up neck up towards up towards the
the grain change. grain change.
From the centre of From the centre of
the lip to the the lip to the
6 Backhand Down
LEFT side of the RIGHT side of the
mouth. mouth.
From the LEFT From the RIGHT
sideburn towards sideburn towards
7 Backhand Down the jawbone and the jawbone and
angle of the angle of the
mouth. mouth.
From angle of the From angle of the
8 Freehand Down mouth towards the mouth towards the
point of the chin. point of the chin.
From the LEFT From the RIGHT
9 Backhand Down jawbone to the jawbone to the
grain change. grain change.
 LEFT side of the RIGHT side of the
10 Reverse Backhand Up neck to the grain neck to the grain
change. change.
Across the chin Across the chin
11 Freehand Across from LEFT to the from RIGHT to
RIGHT. the LEFT.
Freehand or Under the chin to Under the chin to
12 Down
Backhand the grain change. the grain change.
Centre of the neck Centre of the neck
13 Reverse Freehand Up to the grain to the grain
change. change.
Under the lower Under the lower
14 Reverse Freehand Up
lip. lip.

Types of Shaves
There are three main types of shaves traditionally practiced in barbershops:

 The first time over: The standard shave service performed in barbershops today. It is performed
using a lather on the beard and by shaving in the direction of the grain. This shave removes all
visible hair growth and leaves the skin smooth and without irritation.
 The second time over: This shave is performed immediately after the first time over to create a
closer shave by removing any remaining hair. The second time over shave is generally performed
on dampened skin with no lather, while working with or across the grain.
 The close shave: A shave that is typically not practiced, unless the client has a particularly
challenging beard or growth pattern, in which the first time over and second time over shaves were
not enough to adequately remove all of the hair. This shave is performed against the grain,
therefore it is not commonly performed as it is more likely to cause irritation, ingrown hairs, and
the possibility of infection.

How to Hone and Strop the Razor

Honing and stropping the razor is what maintains its sharp edge. If the razor begins to pull while shaving,
and the resulting shave is not smooth, then it is time to hone and strop your blade.
Honing is the first step to sharpening the blade and consists of lightly passing the razor, leading with the
edge, over a gritted stone. Hones come in various grits ranging from coarse to fine. Generally, a razor will
be passed over a larger grit first, then a smaller grit, in order to gradually work down the delicate edge.
Stropping is the second and final step to sharpening the blade. To strop the razor, the blade is passed,
leading with the back, along a canvas or leather strap. This action refines and smooths the honed blade into
a precise cutting implement.

In the video below, you will see the honing and stropping procedure:
Video: Honing and Stropping with Straight Razor
Note: This video has no dialogue.