Humulus by Isabell Kraemer

Humulus© 2017
a handknit design by Isabell Kraemer/grasflecken.
This pattern is for unlimited personal use. Do not
reproduce or sell the pattern, or sell items that
are knitted from this pattern.
For any questions, please contact
grasfleckenbylilalu@gmail.com

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Humulus© Isabell Kraemer/grasflecken 2017
Yarn dec: decrease
Snældan 3ply natural shades [284 yards (260 m)/100g] DS: double stitch (see German short-rows)
Snældan 3ply colored [142 yards (130 m)/50g] inc: increase
4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins in MC; shown in #3 k: knit
1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) skeins in CC; shown in #10 k2tog: knit 2 together
Please note: The natural shade yarns come in 100g skeins kDS: knit double stitch (see German short rows)
and the colored yarns come in 50g skeins. m: marker
MC: main color
Needles M1L: make one left (left leaning increase)
US 5 (3.75 mm) 16” (40 cm) and 32” (80 cm) circular needle lift loop between stitches from front, knit/purl into back
and DPNs (or longer circular needle for magic loop) for loop
neck, body and sleeve ribbing. p: purl
US 6 (4 mm) 24” (60 cm) and 32” (80 cm) circular needle pDS: purl double stitch (see German short-rows)
and DPNs (or longer circular needle for magic loop) for pm: place marker
body and sleeves. rem: remain(ing)
rnd(s): round(s)
Gauge RS: right side
20 sts x 28 rows = 4" (10 cm) square in Stockinette stitch on Sl m: slip marker
larger needle after blocking. st(s): stitch(es)
Due to variance between knitters, color work should be St st: Stockinette stitch
swatched to determine whether to go up or down a needle tog: together
size to keep gauge consistent. ssk: slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise to the RH needle;
return stitches to LH needle in turned position and knit
Sizes them together through the back loops (left leaning
XS (S, M1, M2, L, XL, XXL) decrease)
finished bust circumference: WS: wrong side
37.25 (40.5, 42, 45.25, 48, 52, 56)"
93 (101, 105, 113, 120, 130, 140) cm Color work chart
Sample is size S worn with 6" (15 cm) positive ease at bust.
(See schematic on the last page for more detailed
measurements)

Materials
Stitch holders or waste yarn, stitch markers, tapestry
needle, blocking tools.

Special techniques and tips

German short-rows: see this tutorial for some close-up
photos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_6Pjl20zKA
On a RS row: Knit the number of stitches as stated in the
pattern, turn work, bring yarn to front, slip the first stitch as
if to purl, bring yarn over the needle to the back of your
work and pull tight (this creates the double stitch = DS).
On a WS row: Purl the number of stitches as stated in the
pattern, turn work, bring yarn to front, slip the first stitch as
if to purl, bring yarn over the needle to the back of your
work and pull tight (this creates the double stitch = DS).
Resolving double stitches: When working over double
stitches treat them as a single stitch by knitting through
both legs of the DS on a RS row (kDS), or purling through
both legs of the DS on a WS row (pDS).
Backwards loop cast-on method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goOVkdgv_ys

Abbreviations
approx: approximately
beg: begin(ning)
BO: bind off
BOR: beginning of the round Chart is to be read from bottom to top and from right to
CC: contrast color left.
CO: cast on
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Humulus© Isabell Kraemer/grasflecken 2017
Humulus is worked seamlessly from the top down. First Finish yoke shaping
some short-rows are worked back and forth to create a Short-row 1 (RS): K97 (104, 108, 113, 116, 122, 129), turn;
higher back neck and then the round- yoke is worked top (WS) DS, purl to BOR m, sl m, p98 (105, 109, 114, 117, 123,
down to sleeve separation. Some last short-rows are 130), turn.
worked to finish the yoke shaping right before Short-row 2 (RS): DS, knit to BOR m, sl m, knit to DS, kDS,
sleeve stitches are placed on hold, then the body is worked k4, turn; (WS) DS, purl to BOR m, sl m, purl to DS, pDS, p4,
in rounds down to the hem. Sleeves are worked top down turn.
to the cuffs last. Rep last short-row once more.
Next row: DS, knit to BOR m.
Instructions Knit 1 round (kDS when you reach them).
Yoke
With MC yarn and shorter US 5 (3.75 mm) needle, CO 100 Separate sleeves and body
(106, 110, 110, 114, 120, 120) sts, join to work in the round Next rnd: Remove BOR marker, k42 (46, 47, 51, 53, 57, 60),
(being careful not to twist stitches) and place marker for place 50 (52, 55, 57, 58, 60, 64) sleeve stitches on a holder
BOR (rounds beg at center of back). or waste yarn, using the backward loop cast on, CO 4 (4, 5,
Next rnd: (K1, p1) to end. 5, 6, 7, 9) sts, pm (new BOR), CO 4 (4, 5, 5, 7, 8, 10) sts, k85
Rep last round 3 more times. (93, 95, 103, 107, 115, 121) front sts, place 50 (52, 55, 57,
Change to shorter US 6 (4 mm) needle. 58, 60, 64) sleeve stitches on a holder or waste yarn, using
Knit 1 round. the backward loop cast on, CO 8 (8, 10, 10, 13, 15, 19) sts,
Note: Change to longer US 6 (4 mm) circular needle when knit to new BOR marker.
needed to accommodate the increasing number of stitches. 186 (200, 210, 226, 240, 260, 280) sts for body
Short-row 1 (RS): K28 (29, 30, 30, 31, 33, 34), turn; (WS) DS,
purl to BOR m, sl m, p28 (29, 30, 30, 31, 33, 34), turn. Continue to work in Stockinette stitch in rounds until body
Short-row 2 (RS): DS, knit to BOR m, sl m, (k4, M1L) 4 (5, 5, measures 12.5" (32 cm), from underarm CO.
5, 6, 6, 6) times, knit to DS, kDS, k3, turn; (WS) DS, purl to
BOR m, sl m, [p4, M1L (purl)] 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) times, purl to Ribbing
DS, pDS, p3, turn. Change to longer US 5 (3.75 mm) needle.
Short-row 3 (RS): DS, knit to BOR m, sl m, knit to DS, kDS, Next rnd: (K1, p1) to end.
k2, turn; (WS) DS, purl to BOR m, sl m, purl to DS, pDS, p2, Rep last round 20 more times, or to desired length. BO in
turn. pattern.
Rep last short-row 2 more times.
Next row (RS): DS, knit to BOR m, sl m.
108 (116, 120, 120, 126, 132, 132) sts.
Knit 2 rounds (kDS when you reach them).

Inc set 1
XS: -
S: -
M1: -
M2: (K15, M1L) to end. (8 sts inc’d)
L: (K11, M1L, k10) to end. (6 sts inc’d)
XL: (K16, M1L, k17, M1L) to end. (8 sts inc’d)
XXL: [(K8, M1L) 3 times, k9, M1L] to end. (16 sts inc’d)
108 (116, 120, 128, 132, 140, 148) sts.

All sizes: Knit - (-, -, 3, 5, 5, 5) rounds.

Inc set 2
Next rnd: (K2, M1L) to end. [54 (58, 60, 64, 66, 70, 74) sts
inc’d]
162 (174, 180, 192, 198, 210, 222) sts.
Knit 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 8) rounds.

Color work (see chart on page 2)

Work rows 1 to 35 from chart, break CC yarn.
270 (290, 300, 320, 330, 350, 370) sts

Continue to work in Stockinette stitch in rounds until yoke

measures 7.25 (7.75, 8, 8.75, 9.25, 9.75, 10)" [18.5 (19.5,
20.5, 22.5, 23.5, 24.5, 25.5) cm] from CO, measured at the
center front down.
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Humulus© Isabell Kraemer/grasflecken 2017
Sleeves (both alike) Adjust stitch count for ribbing
Place held sleeve stitches on US 6 (4 mm) DPNs (or longer XS: -
circular needle for magic loop), beg at the center of S: -
underarm, pick up and knit 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 9) sts from M1: K2, k2tog, knit to end. (1 st dec'd)
underarm CO, knit across sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 4 M2: K2, k2tog, knit to end. (1 st dec'd)
(4, 5, 5, 7, 8, 10) sts from underarm CO, place marker for L: K2, k2tog, knit to end. (1 st dec'd)
BOR. XL: K2, k2tog, knit to end. (1 st dec'd)
Note: You may want to pick up one more stitch at each edge XXL: K2, k2tog, knit to end. (1 st dec'd)
of the underarm CO to avoid holes at these points. Please
decrease these stitches on next round to achieve the correct Sleeve ribbing
stitch count for your sleeve. Note: If desired add a one row stripe in contrasting color
58 (60, 65, 67, 71, 75, 83) sts for sleeve right before the ribbing.
Change to US 5 (3.75 mm) DPNs.
Work in Stockinette stitch in the round until sleeve Next rnd: (K1, p1) to end.
measures 3" (7.5 cm) from underarm. Rep last round 12 more times, or to desired length. BO in
Next round (dec rnd): K2, k2tog, k to 4 sts before m, ssk, pattern.
k2. (2 sts dec’d)
Repeat dec rnd every 14th (14th,10th, 10th, 9th, 9th, 8th, 6th) Repeat instructions for second sleeve.
round 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 11, 15) more times.
44 (46, 47, 49, 49, 51, 51) sts rem Block sweater to measurements and weave in ends.

Continue to work in Stockinette stitch in rounds until sleeve

measures approx. 16.5" (42 cm), or 1.75" (4.5 cm) less than
desired length from underarm.

Schematic

Measurements in inches Measurements in cm

A: 18.5 (20.25, 21, 22.5, 24, 26, 28) A: 46.5 (50.5, 52.5, 56.5, 60, 65, 70)
B: 5.75 (6, 6.5, 6.75, 7, 7.5, 8.25) B: 14.5 (15, 16.25, 16.75, 17.75, 18.75, 20.75)
C: 7.25 (7.75, 8, 8.75, 9.25, 9.75, 10) C: 18.5 (19.5, 20.5, 22.5, 23.5, 24.5, 25.5)
D: +/- 15.25 D: +/- 39
Sleeve length from underarm: +/- 18.25 Sleeve length from underarm: +/- 46.5

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Humulus© Isabell Kraemer/grasflecken 2017