DIAPHANOUS RAGLAN Sizes: XS (S, M, L, 1XL)(2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

34.5(38.5, 43.25, 46.5, 50.5)(56, 57.5, 61.5, 67.25)”

BY JESSIE MAE MARTINSON of JESSIE MAED DESIGNS 87.6(97.8, 109.9, 118, 128.25)(142.25, 146, 156.25, 170.8)cm
This top is the next best thing to having wings. You’ll feel like you’re floating
in the sheer sleeves and featherweight body of this double v-neck raglan. Be Measurements reflect 4.5-6.5” (11.4-16.5cm) of positive ease for each size. To
decide which size to make, take your full bust measurement and add 4.5-6.5”
casual and cozy with some high waist trousers for an everyday look, or pair it
(11.4-16.5cm). Choose the size closest to that number. If you are between sizes,
with a skirt for something fancier. You’ll flutter either way.
size down.
For a fitted garment, you can choose your actual bust size, but check the
schematic on the last page to ensure that the armhole circumference
isn’t too narrow to fit your upper arm.

Suggested Yarn: The Farmer’s Daughter Fibers Foxy Lady (70%

Merino, 30% Silk. Single Ply. Light Sock Weight. 428
yds/100g.)
The Farmer’s Daughter Fibers Mighty Mo’ (70% Kid
Mohair, 30% Mulberry Silk. 459yds/50g.)

The yarns listed above are what I used for the samples. Note that anywhere
fingering is used in the design, it is held double with lace.

You will want to choose a fingering yarn with a nice drape. You don’t need to
use single ply! Anything you like the feel of will work.

For the lace, you can use any fiber you choose. If you don’t like mohair or are
allergic, you can try alpaca, or even a plain merino lace. All of these options
will give you a similar sheer effect for the sleeves.

If you like the silhouette of the sweater but don’t care for the sheer sleeves,
you could work it in lace + fingering in its entirety, or in a DK weight held
single, provided you get gauge.

For budget friendly yarn alternatives, see the pattern notes page on
Ravelry. Feel free to experiment with fiber combinations of your choosing!
Share your project on Instagram using the hashtag
#diaphanousraglan and tagging @jessssiemae
Diaphanous Raglan v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 1 of 9
Suggested Needles: Gauge: 20 sts & 26 rows per 4x4 square in stockinette worked flat on main
needle size used for body, holding one strand of mohair and one
Ribbing needle (hem, neckline, and cuffs): strand of fingering together
US 4 – 3.5 mm 32-40” circular needles for magic loop, or DPNs if not using Yardage:
magic loop. This needle should be 2-3 sizes smaller than your main needle.
I calculate yardage using the minimums from the ranges used by my testers,
Main needle (body, cap/short/flutter/ruffle sleeves): to the maximums with a 15% cushion added. I include the minimums for
US 7 – 4.5 mm 24-40” circular needles to work body and sleeves for the purposes of financial accessibility, but most knitters will use yardage towards
cap, short, flutter, and ruffle sleeve options. the middle of these ranges.

For the body, choose a circular needle circumference that is at least a few
Short, Cap, Flutter, and Ruffle Sleeve Options:
inches shorter than the bust circumference of the finished garment.
Fingering: 214-246 (250-283, 370-500, 400-526, 470-600)(565-675, 600-715,
Flutter and ruffle sleeves are worked flat. If working cap or short sleeves, you 670-770, 800-905)yds
will need to use either magic loop or DPNs in this needle size. 196-225 (229-259, 338-457, 366-481, 430-549)(517-617, 549-654, 613-704,
732-828)m
Sleeve needle (bishop or bell sleeve only):
US 9 – 5.5 mm 32-40” circular needles for magic loop, or DPNs if not using Lace: 275-315 (368-490, 475-604, 575-650, 625-700)(661-813, 700-815, 775-
magic loop. This needle should be two sizes larger than your main needle, or 875, 825-950)yds
whatever size you need to achieve gauge. It will be used for the bishop and 251-288 (336-448, 434-552, 526-594, 572-640)(604-743, 731-745, 709-800,
bell sleeve portions only. 754-869)m

Materials: fingering weight yarn, lace weight yarn, circular needles, Bishop or Bell Sleeve Option:
stitch markers, removable stitch markers (2,) scrap yarn or
stitch holders, darning needle Fingering: 255-300 (300-460, 400-550, 493-650, 522-720)(621-743, 675-800,
715-825, 800-960)yds
233-274 (274-421, 366-503, 451-594, 477-658)(568-677, 617-732, 654-754,
Techniques: knitting in the round, decreasing, increasing, holding stitches, 732-878)m
picking up stitches, backward loop cast on, magic loop if
working sleeves on circulars, wet blocking Lace: 441-507 (552-660, 826-950, 850-1025, 875-1100)(921-1300, 975-1350,
1151-1400, 1300-1500)yds
403-464 (505-604, 755-869, 777-937, 800-1006)(842-1189, 892-1234, 1052-
Construction: The shoulder panels are worked flat separately and then joined 1280, 1189-1372)m
in the round. Stitches are held for sleeves and cast on for the underarms. The
main body is worked top down in the round with or without waist decreases.
Stitches are picked up for neckline and ribbed neck edge is added. Directions If you plan on adding length to the body of your sweater, you should allow for
for sleeves vary depending on option worked. additional yardage as follows per extra inch knit:
25(28,31,34,37)(40,43,46,49)yds
[22.9(25.6,28.3,31.1,33.8)(36.6,33.3,42,44.8)]m
Diaphanous Raglan v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 2 of 9
A few things to note before we begin: Row 2 (WS): Purl to 2nd marker slipping markers as you come to them, drop
1) When winding yarn, you will need two separate balls of fingering to fingering yarn in the front. Purl to next marker holding mohair single. Pick up
work from while working each shoulder cap. I would suggest winding strand of fingering dropped in previous row and hold together with mohair.
half of the weight of a skein, and then winding the remaining half. If Purl to end slipping markers as you come to them.
you’ve already wound your skein into a ball, simply wind half of that
ball into a new ball. I also recommend re-winding the remaining Row 3 (RS): Sl1kwyib, k2, m1l, k to next marker, m1r, sm, k2, sm, drop
yarn, such that the tension from each ball is even. fingering yarn in back such that you are holding mohair single, m1l, k to next
2) Managing the three balls of yarn can be tricky at first, but it gets marker, m1r, sm, pick up strand of fingering dropped in previous row and
much easier as you get the hang of it. You will have two balls of hold together with mohair, k2, sm, m1l, k to 3 sts before end of row, m1r, k2,
fingering and one ball of mohair for each sleeve cap. I like to arrange sl1kwyib.
them in a line next to me, with the mohair between the two
fingering balls. Whenever I turn or switch/drop yarns, I maneuver the Row 4 (WS): Same as row 2.
mohair ball (rather than fumbling with a different one each time) in
order to undo any twists that might exist. Stay consistent with where Repeat rows 3 & 4 another 15(19, 21, 21, 24)(28, 30, 32, 35) times until st
you place your yarn and only move the mohair if you can help it! count is 120(144,156,160,178)(202,214,228,246). Counts should be as
3) I have several video tutorials for this pattern available on my follows: 37(45, 50, 52, 57)(64, 66, 70, 78) sts for each of the body sections
Instagram TV channel. You can find the links in the IG TV tab of my (mohair + fingering sections,) 4 raglan seam sts, 42(50, 52, 52, 60)(70, 78, 84,
Instagram page, or in the Pattern Tutorial Videos section near the 86) sts for the sleeve (mohair only section.)
bottom of the pattern page on Ravelry. If a tutorial is available for a
specific section, I’ve noted it within the pattern. All sizes except XS, S, and M, break yarn and continue to “Right Shoulder and
Sleeve Cap” section.
Left Shoulder and Sleeve Cap
For a video tutorial on how to work the first few rows, see the “Cast on and Sizes XS, S, and M only
first few rows” link on the Ravelry pattern page. (Note: the intent of this section is to increase the depth of the V-neck and
armhole for these sizes to match the proportions of the larger sizes. If you
On main needles with one strand of mohair held with one strand of fingering, prefer a higher neckline and a closer fit around the underarm, feel free to
CO 24(24,24,28,28)(28,28,30,30) sts using the long-tail method. [Note: I omit these extra rows and proceed to the next section.)
recommend the long-tail cast on here, because I find it easiest to pick up
stitches from. If you prefer a different cast on from which you are comfortable Continue without increasing by working the following two rows four times,
picking up stitches, you are welcome to use it.] for a total of eight additional rows:

Setup row (RS): Sl1kwyib, k4(4, 5, 7, 6)(5, 3, 3, 5), PM, k2, PM, drop fingering Row 1 (RS): Sl1kwyib, k to next marker, sm, k2, sm, drop fingering yarn in
yarn in the back such that you are now only holding a strand of mohair. Knit back such that you are holding mohair single, k to next marker, sm, pick up
10(10, 8, 8, 10)(12, 16, 18, 14) sts with mohair held single, PM, join a new strand of fingering dropped in previous row and hold together with mohair,
strand of fingering yarn holding it double with the mohair, k2, PM, k4(4, 5, 7, k2, sm, k to last st, sl1kwyib. Turn.
6)(5, 3, 3, 5), sl1kwyib.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to 2nd marker slipping markers as you come to them, drop
fingering yarn in the front. Purl to next marker holding mohair single. Pick up

Diaphanous Raglan v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 3 of 9

strand of fingering dropped in previous row and hold together with mohair. should be at the end of the panel. Place a marker to mark the center of the
Purl to end slipping markers as you come to them. Turn. back V, which is also the BOR.

After completing the eight additional rows, break yarn and continue to “Right Round 1: Continue knitting to join in the round. You should have (4 panels of
Shoulder and Sleeve Cap” section. 37(45, 50, 52, 57)(64, 66, 70, 78) sts + 8 raglan sts + 16(4, 8, 16, 16)(16, 16,
20, 16) extra CO sts for underarm) 172(192, 216, 232, 252)(280, 288, 308,
Right Shoulder and Sleeve Cap 336) sts total.
Follow same instructions as for left shoulder sleeve and cap, but do not cut
the working yarns remaining when you reach the end. You will continue If you do not want to knit waist decreases, knit in plain stockinette for 5(5,
working with these yarns to join to the left shoulder cap. 5.5,5.5,5.75)(6,6,6,6.5)” [12.7(12.7,14,14,14.6)(15.25,15.25,15.25,16.5)cm].
After knitting to this length, jump forward to the section titled “Ribbed
You will need to cut the remaining piece of fingering that you dropped Hem.”
before the mohair sleeve.
If you want to knit waist decreases, continue to next section.
Joining the Sleeve Sections
For a video tutorial on how to join the sleeve sections, see the “Separating Place markers for the side seams
sleeves and joining in the round” link on the Ravelry pattern page. We will now place markers prepare to knit waist decreases. Knit 43(48, 54,
58, 63)(70, 72, 77, 84) sts and place marker to mark right side of garment
We will now be joining our panels and separating our sleeves. From this point (abbreviated RSM.) This marker should sit at the midpoint of the cast on
forth, the body will be knit in the round with fingering and mohair held underarm sts for the right arm. Knit 86(96, 108, 116, 126)(140, 144, 154,
together. 168) sts. Place marker to mark the left side of the garment (abbreviated
LSM.) This marker should sit at the midpoint of the cast on underarm sts for
Setup round: Knit 37(45, 50, 52, 57)(64, 66, 70, 78) sts to first st marker. the left arm. Continue knitting to BOR.
Remove marker. Knit 2. Remove marker. Place all 42(50, 52, 52, 60)(70, 78,
84, 86) sleeve stitches on holder or scrap yarn. It is easy to tell which stitches Waist Decreases
are sleeve stitches; they are the ones where the mohair is held single. Once Knit for 1.25(0.75, 0.75, 1, 1.25)(1, 1.5, 0.75, 0.25)” [3.2(1.9, 1.9, 2.5,
you have your sleeve stitches held, use the backward loop cast on to CO 8(2, 3.2)(2.5, 3.8, 1.9, .6)cm] before beginning decreases.
4, 8, 8)(8, 8, 10, 8) underarm sts, making sure not to twist the sts. We will
now join the underarm to the other side of the body by continuing to knit. We will now be decreasing for the waist. As written, we will decrease until
Remove marker. Knit 2. Remove marker. Knit 37(45, 50, 52, 57)(64, 66, 70, the waist measures 24(26.5, 30, 34, 38)(42, 45, 47, 50)”. You can choose to
78) remaining sts. We will now join this piece to the left shoulder and sleeve do as many or as few waist decreases as you want. Just make sure your final
cap panel by knitting them together. Place the left shoulder and sleeve cap stitch count is divisible by two, so that when you get to the 1x1 ribbing at the
back on needles. Knit 37(45, 50, 52, 57)(64, 66, 70, 78) sts to marker. end, the stitch count works out.
Remove marker. Knit 2. Remove marker. Place 42(50, 52, 52, 60)(70, 78, 84,
86) mohair sleeve stitches on holder. Once you have your sleeve stitches Round 1: Knit to 3 sts before RSM, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before
held, use the backward loop cast on to CO 8(2, 4, 8,8)(8, 8, 10, 8) underarm LSM, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, k to BOR. (4 sts decreased)
sts, making sure not to twist the sts. We will now join the left underarm to Round 2: Knit.
the other side of the body by continuing to knit. Remove marker. Knit 2. Repeat the previous two rounds 12(14, 16, 15, 15)(17, 15, 17, 21) more times
Remove marker. Knit (37(45, 50, 52, 57)(64, 66, 70, 78) remaining sts. You until 120(132, 148, 168, 188)(208, 224, 234, 248) sts remain.
Diaphanous Raglan v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 4 of 9
You may want to check the length of your sweater here. One of the great Repeat the above instructions for the remaining side of the V. The last st you
things about a top down raglan is you get to try it on as you go to get the pick up will be from the place noted by the removable stitch marker that
length you like. You will be adding 3” (7.62cm) in the ribbing section, so take marks the bottom of the back of the V. Remove the removable marker and
that into account when deciding how long to knit this section. place it on this stitch after you pick it up.

Ribbed Hem You should have 63(71, 75, 71, 77)(85, 89, 95, 101) sts between each of the
Switch to smaller needles. Work *k1p1* ribbing for 3” (7.62cm) or desired markers, plus the two sts picked up from the markers marking the bottoms
length. Bind off using a stretchy method. I like Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy of the V neck, 128(144, 152, 144, 156)(172, 180, 192, 204) sts total.
bind off. For a video tutorial of this bind off, see the link on the Ravelry
pattern page. Working the neckline ribbing and decreases
Round 1: P1, place marker. This marks the current BOR and the back of the
Total length from underarm should be 8(8, 8.5, 8.5, 8.75)(9, 9, 9, garment. The BOR will change slightly each time we decrease. *k1p1* until 1
9.5)”[20.3(20.3,21.6,21.6,22.2)(22.9,22.9,22.9,24.1)cm]. st before front center. Place marker, p1, k1, p1, place marker. *k1p1* to 1 st
before back center. Place marker. P1, k1, p1. You are now at the beginning of
Neckline the round.
For a video tutorial on how to work the neckline, see the “Working the
neckline” link on the Ravelry pattern page. Round 2: *k1p1* to marker. Slip marker. Work centered double decrease
over the next three sts as follows: With yarn in back, slip the next two sts
Place a removable marker on the st between the bottom two stitches of each together knitwise. Knit the next stitch. Using the left needle, pass the two
V. We will be picking up stitches from these locations in the next row. previously slipped stitches over the stitch you just knit and drop them off the
needle. Place a removable stitch marker on the stitch you passed the stitches
Picking up stitches over, so you can easily locate it on the next round. SM. *k1p1* to next
On smaller needles starting in the back one stitch left of the center bottom marker. Repeat centered double decrease, again using a removable stitch
stitch we just marked, pick up one st from the selvedge edge with fingering marker to mark this stitch for easy identification on the next round. You are
and mohair held together. Continue picking up a stitch from each stitch of now at the beginning of the round.
the selvedge edge, 20(24,26, 22, 25)(29, 31, 33, 36) sts until you reach the
top of the V. Pick up 23(23, 23, 27, 27)(27, 27, 29, 29) sts from original cast Round 3: You will need to remove the regular stitch markers on this row in
on edge. Pick up 20(24, 26, 22, 25)(29, 31, 33, 36) sts from selvedge edge on order to work the decrease. Work in pattern (knit all knit sts and purl all purl
front V. Total at this point should be 63(71, 75, 71, 77)(85, 89, 95, 101) sts. sts in order to maintain ribbing pattern) until 1 st before the bottom of the V
(the st marked by the removable marker.) Work a centered double decrease
[Note: the st count for this section of stitches between the front and back V over the next three sts, and move the removable marker to this stitch. You
(not including the sts at the bottom of the V) needs to be a multiple of 2 + 1. should see a column of knit sts beginning to form, coming up from the
It begins with p1k1 and ends with a purl, such that the stitches on either side bottom of the V. Work in pattern to 1 st before the center back (the st
of the mitered v mirror each other.] marked with the removable marker.) Work centered double decrease over
the next three sts. You are now at the beginning of the round.
Pick up one stitch from the place noted by the removable stitch marker and
place the removable marker on this st. This point marks the bottom front of Continue working round 3 for 1” (2.54cm), or to desired neckline width. The
the V. longer you work the neck decreases, the higher your neckline will be and the
tighter it will fit around your shoulders. I highly encourage trying the top on
Diaphanous Raglan v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 5 of 9
to see how it is fitting as you knit, as the neckline ribbing raises the neckline Bind off in purl on the wrong side. Proceed to blocking.
more than you might expect with each row you knit and decrease.
Ruffle Sleeve
When you have reached the desired neckband width, bind off in pattern Place 42(50, 52, 52, 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sts from sleeve back on your needle.
using a stretchy method. With mohair held single, pick up 8(2, 4, 8, 8)(8, 8, 10, 8) sts from the
underarm cast on stitches.
Sleeves
You can work a cap sleeve, flutter sleeve (soft ruffle,) ruffle sleeve (more Round 1: Knit 42(50, 52, 52, 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sts, then bind off the 8(2, 4,
dramatic ruffle,) a short sleeve (with a ribbed edge, or a long bishop or bell 8, 8)(8, 8, 10, 8) sts you picked up from the underarm cast on sts. [42(50, 52,
sleeve. Instructions for each are included below. 52, 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sts remain]

If you are feeling unsure of the amount of yarn you have left at this point, I We will now be working flat.
suggest you weigh it and split it evenly, such that you can maximize the Row 1 (RS): Knit across all sts. Turn.
length of the sleeves. I like to make one ball slightly smaller than the other Row 2 (WS): Purl all sts. Turn.
and to use that ball for the first arm, just to be sure I have more than enough Row 3 (RS): *Kfb.* Repeat to end of row. Turn.
yarn for the other side. [84(100,104,104,120)(140,156,168,172) sts]
Row 4 (WS): Purl all sts. Turn.
Flutter Sleeve Row 5 (RS): *Kfb.* Repeat to end of row. Turn.
Place 42(50, 52, 52, 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sts from sleeve back on your needle. [168(200,208,208,240)(280,312,336,344)sts]
With mohair held single, pick up 8(2, 4, 8, 8)(8, 8, 10, 8) sts from the Row 6 (WS): Purl all sts. Turn.
underarm cast on stitches. Row 7 (RS): Knit all sts. Turn.

Round 1: Knit 42(50, 52, 52, 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sts, then bind off the 8(2, 4, Repeat rows 6 & 7 for 1.75”, or until sleeve is desired length, ending with a
8, 8)(8, 8, 10, 8) sts you picked up from the underarm cast on sts. [42(50, 52, right side row.
52, 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sts remain]
Bind off in purl on the wrong side. Proceed to blocking.
We will now be working flat.
Cap Sleeve
Row 1 (RS): Knit across all sts. Turn. Place 42(50, 52, 52, 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sts from sleeve back on your needle.
Row 2 (WS): Purl all sts. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): *Kfb.* Repeat to end of row. Turn. Using mohair held single, begin picking up stitches at center of underarm
[84(100,104,104,120)(140,156,168,172) sts] (this would be halfway between the cast on sts for underarm.) Pick up 4(1, 2,
Row 4 (WS): Purl all sts. Turn. 4,4)(4, 4, 5, 4) sts from left half of underarm, knit across 42(50, 52, 52,
Row 5 (RS): Knit all sts. Turn. 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sleeve sts, pick up 4(1, 2, 4, 4)(4, 4, 5, 4) more sts from
right half of underarm. PM for BOR. 50(52, 56, 60, 68)(78, 86, 94, 94) sts
Repeat rows 4 & 5 for 1.75”, or until sleeve is desired length, ending with a total.
right side row. You can optionally incorporate fingering weight yarn into this
last row, such that you also work the bind off in the next row with fingering Knit two rounds using mohair only. Bind off loosely. This will create a raw
held double with mohair. This creates a pretty contrast edge to the sleeve. curled edge. Proceed to blocking.
Diaphanous Raglan v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 6 of 9
Short Sleeve since arm length varies so much by person. The end of the sleeve should fall
Place 42(50, 52, 52, 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sts from sleeve back on your needle. an inch or so past your wrist.
Next round: Incorporate one strand of fingering weight yarn and knit.
Using mohair held single, begin picking up stitches at center of underarm
(this would be halfway between the cast on sts for underarm.) Pick up Bind off loosely with fingering held double with mohair. Proceed to blocking.
4(1, 2, 4,4)(4, 4, 5, 4) sts from left half of underarm, knit across
42(50, 52, 52, 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sleeve sts, pick up 4(1, 2, 4, 4)(4, 4, 5, 4) Bishop Sleeve
more sts from right half of underarm. PM for BOR. (Note: if you prefer a slimmer sleeve, feel free to use your main needle size
50(52, 56, 60, 68)(78, 86, 94, 94) sts total. rather than going two sizes up. You may also skip the underarm increases and
decrease evenly to the stitch count for the wrist after you work the length of
Round 1: K1, k2tog, k to 3 sts before BOR, ssk, k1. (2 sts dec’d.) the sleeve and are ready to begin the wrist.)
Round 2: Knit.
Using needle two sizes larger than your main needle size, place
Repeat the previous two rounds three more times until 42(50, 52, 52, 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sts from sleeve back on your needle.
42(44,48,52,60)(70,78,86,86) sts remain.
Using mohair held single, begin picking up stitches at center of underarm
Continue to knit until sleeve is approximately 1.5” (3.8cm). (this would be halfway between the cast on sts for underarm.) Pick up
4(1, 2, 4, 4)(4, 4, 5, 4) sts from left half of underarm, knit across
Switch to smaller needles. Add one strand of fingering yarn to the mohair 42(50, 52, 52, 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sts, pick up 4(1, 2, 4, 4)(4, 4, 5, 4) more sts
you’re already holding. Work *k1p1* ribbing for 1.5” (3.8cm). from right half of underarm. PM for BOR. 50(52, 56, 60, 68)(78, 86, 94, 94)
sts total.
Bind off loosely. Proceed to blocking.
Underarm Increases
Bell Sleeve Round 1: Kfb of the first 8 sts, k to last 8 sts, kfb of last 8 sts. You should now
Using a needle two sizes larger than your main needle size, place 42(50, 52, have 66(68,72,76,84)(94,102,110,110) sts.
52, 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sts from sleeve back on your needle.
Knit every round until sleeve measures
Using mohair held single, begin picking up stitches at center of underarm 15.5(16,16,16.5,16.5)(17,17,17.5,17.5)”
(this would be halfway between the cast on sts for underarm.) Pick up [39.4(40.6,40.6,41.9,41.9)(43.2,43.2,44.5,44.5)cm] from underarm, or
4(1, 2, 4, 4)(4, 4, 5, 4) sts from left half of underarm, knit across desired length. I suggest trying the sweater on to see where the sleeve falls,
42(50, 52, 52, 60)(70, 78, 84, 86) sts, pick up 4(1, 2, 4, 4)(4, 4, 5, 4) more sts since arm length varies so much by person. The end of the sleeve should fall
from right half of underarm. PM for BOR. 50(52, 56, 60, 68)(78, 86, 94, 94) an inch or so past your wrist.
sts total.
Wrist Decreases
Knit every round until sleeve measures Round 1: K2tog across entire round. 33(34,36,38,42)(47,51,55,55) sts
15.5(16,16,16.5,16.5)(17,17,17.5,17.5)” remain.
[39.4(40.6,40.6,41.9,41.9)(43.2,43.2,44.5,44.5)cm] from underarm, or
desired length. I suggest trying the sweater on to see where the sleeve falls, Sizes XS, S, M, L, & XL
Continue to section titled “Wrist Ribbing.”
Diaphanous Raglan v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 7 of 9
Sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X Only Abbreviations
Next round: Decrease evenly by –(--,--,--,--)(3,5,7,5) sts across the entire BO – bind off
round until --(--, --, --, --)(44, 46, 48, 50) sts remain. BOR – beginning of round
CDD – centered double decrease. With yarn in back, slip the next two sts together KW. Knit
the next stitch. Using the left needle, lift the two previously slipped stitches over the stitch
Wrist Ribbing you just knit
Switch to ribbing needles. Add one strand of fingering yarn to the mohair CO – cast on
you’re already holding. Work *k1p1* ribbing for 3” (7.62cm). Bind off using K– knit
Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy bind off. K2tog - knit 2 stitches together (right leaning decrease)
Kfb – knit into the front and back. Knit into the front of the stitch, but do not drop the
stitch off of the needle. Knit into the back loop of the same stitch and drop stitch off
Blocking needle. One st increased.
Wet or steam block gently. If wet blocking the bishop sleeve version, you can LN – left needle
blow up balloons and place them above the cuffs in the sleeves while drying LSM – left side marker
to create a more dramatic drape. Flutter away! M1l – make 1 left. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the next stitch from
front to back. Knit through the back of the stitch.
M1r – make 1 right. Pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the next stitch
Sharing
from back to front. Knit into the front this stitch.
I love seeing your projects on Ravelry and Instagram! P – purl
PM – place marker
On Instagram, use the hashtag #diaphanousraglan and tag me, RN – right needle
@jessssiemae. My absolute favorite part of designing is seeing what you RS - right side
RSM – right side marker
make!
Sl1kwyib – slip one knitwise with yarn in back
SM – slip marker
Pattern Support Ssk - slip one st knitwise, slip another st knitwise. Knit both slipped stitches together
Please direct all pattern support queries to jessiemaeddesigns@gmail.com. through the back loop.
St - stitch
Contacting me via email will ensure the quickest turnaround time in the Sts – stitches
WS - wrong side
event that you require assistance.

Note also that going forward, I will no longer be offering pattern support on
Instagram. I appreciate your patience and understanding with this as I try to
achieve a better work/life balance by transitioning all of my pattern support
to one place. I am confident that doing so will result in higher quality and
DISCLAIMER: I am happy to allow small scale personal commission hand
more efficient pattern support for everyone who knits my patterns.
knitting of my designs, but you may not reproduce this pattern or
commercially manufacture any garment made from it. Thank you in advance
for respecting my labor and intellectual property.
Ⓒ JESSIE MAE MARTINSON, August 2019

Diaphanous Raglan v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 8 of 9

 INCHES XS S M L 1X 2X 3X 4X 5X
(in.) (in.) (in.) (in.) (in.) (in.) (in.) (in.) (in.)
A - Bust Circ. 34.5 38.5 43.25 46.5 50.5 56 57.5 61.5 67.25

B - Waist Circ. 24 26.5 30 34 38 42 45 47 50

(w/decreases)
C - V-Neck 6 7.25 7.5 7.5 8.75 10 11.25 12 12.5
Depth
D - Raglan 8.5 9 9.5 10 10.5 11 12 13 14
Depth
E - Under Body 8 8 8.5 8.5 8.75 9 9 9 9.5
Length
F - Total Body 14 15.25 16 16 17.5 19 20.25 21 22
Length
G - Upper Arm 10 10.5 11.25 12 13.5 15.5 17.25 18.75 18.75
Circ.
H - Bishop 13.2 13.6 14.4 15.2 16.8 18.8 20.4 22 22
Sleeve Circ.
I - Sleeve 18.5 19 19 19.5 19.5 20 20 20.5 20.5
Length
J - Wrist Circ. 6.6 6.8 7.2 7.6 8.4 8.8 9.2 9.6 10

CENTIMETERS XS S M L 1X 2X 3X 4X 5X
(cm) (cm) (cm) (cm) (cm) (cm) (cm) (cm) (cm)
A - Bust Circ. 87.63 97.79 109.9 118 128 142 146.1 156.2 170.8

B - Waist Circ. 60.96 67.31 76.2 86.4 96.5 107 114.3 119.4 127
(w/decreases)
C - V-Neck 15.24 18.42 19.05 19.1 22.2 25.4 28.58 30.48 31.75
Depth
D - Raglan 21.59 22.86 24.13 25.4 26.7 27.9 30.48 33.02 35.56
Depth
E - Under Body 20.32 20.32 21.59 21.6 22.2 22.9 22.86 22.86 24.13
Length
F - Total Body 35.56 38.74 40.64 40.6 44.5 48.3 51.44 53.34 55.88
Length
G - Upper Arm 25.4 26.67 28.58 30.5 34.3 39.4 43.82 47.63 47.63
Circ.
H - Bishop 33.52 34.54 36.58 38.6 42.7 47.8 51.82 55.88 55.88
Sleeve Circ. 8
I - Sleeve 46.99 48.26 48.26 49.5 49.5 50.8 50.8 52.07 52.07
Length
J - Wrist Circ. 16.76 17.27 18.29 19.3 21.3 22.4 23.37 24.38 25.4

Diaphanous Raglan v1.3 - Jessie Maed Designs, August 2019 Page 9 of 9