Pattern-

free
project

PROJECT:
Beginner
Tote
This medium-size tote has lots of room to
carry just about anything, thanks to the
depth of the boxed corners. The additional
pockets makes this bag perfect
for everyday use!
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0.57m (5⁄8yd) of main fabric for panels

0.23m (¼yd) of contrasting fabric for
handles, zipper tabs and tassel
0.69m (¾yd) of lining for interior, zipper
pocket and interior slip pocket
0.46m (½yd) of foam interfacing
0.91m (1yd) of lightweight woven fusible
MATERIALS

interfacing
43.2cm (17in) of double-slide nylon coil
zipper for zipper pocket
35.6cm (14in) of single-slide nylon coil
handbag zipper for top closure
Basting spray
Sewing clips
Zipper foot or narrow foot
Chalk or disappearing-ink fabric marker
40-weight polyester thread
Optional: Metal handmade label,
small rivets, hot or fabric glue for tassel
With this

Build your bag-making skills - learn fabric preparation,

project

creating a front zipper pocket, attaching handles, easily

Finished size: 36.8 wide × 38.1 high × installing a zipper, assembling the bag, and adding
10.2cm deep (14 ½ × 15 high × 4in deep optional embellishments.

Main fabric
Cut 2 pieces - 38.1 × 44.5cm (15 × 17½in) for front and back panels right side
Contrast fabric
Cut 2 pieces - 3.8 × 63.5cm (1½ × 25in) for handles
Cut 2 pieces - 2.5 × 3.2cm (1 x 1 ¼in) for zipper tabs
wrong side
Lining
CUTTING

Cut 2 pieces - 38.1 × 44.5cm (15 × 17½in) for front and back panels
Cut 2 pieces - 38.1 × 15.2cm (15 × 6in) for zipper pocket
Cut 2 pieces - 20.3 × 20.3cm (8 × 8in) for slip pocket
Foam interfacing
Cut 2 pieces 38.1 × 44.5cm (15 × 17½in) for front and back main fabric panels
Lightweight woven fusible interfacing
Cut 2 pieces 38.1 × 44.5cm (15 × 17½in) for front and back lining panels
Optional
Cut 1 piece of 7.6 × 10.2cm (3 × 4in) for tassel and 1 piece 0.6 × 25.4cm (¼ × 10in) for tassel connector

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How to sew Seam allowances are 6mm (¼in) unless otherwise noted.

How to attach interfacing

1. Position the pieces of foam interfacing
on the wrong sides of the main fabric front
and back panels, aligning all the edges. Baste
3mm (1⁄8in) from all the edges of the foam.
1a. Fuse the pieces of lightweight woven
interfacing to the wrong sides of the lining 4. With the right sides together, layer a zipper
front and back panels, aligning all the edges. pocket lining piece over the front lower half
and zipper, aligning the top and side edges.
Sew together along the top edge.

9. Keeping the front pieces away from the

zipper pocket lining pieces, trim the bottom
edges of the lining pieces so they're even.
Sew the bottom edges of the pocket lining
pieces together using the seam allowance.

5. Fold the front lower half and zipper pocket

lining away from the zipper so the fabrics are
wrong sides together, and press. Topstitch
the front piece 3mm (1⁄8in) from the seam.
Create front zipper pocket
2. Mark a horizontal line 20.3cm (8in) up
from the bottom edge of the main fabric
front panel.
2a. Cut on the horizontal line just marked to
divide the front into two pieces – an upper
and a lower half.
6. With the right sides of the lining pieces
together, align the top edge and sides of the
10. Slide the zipper pulls to the centre.
remaining zipper pocket lining piece with
Smooth the zipper pocket lining flat against
the un-sewn edge of the zipper. Baste in
the wrong side of the front lower half. Sew
place using the seam allowance.
the sides of the zipper pocket lining to the
front using the seam allowance. Trim the
7. With the right sides together, align the
excess zipper tape.
3. Slide both pulls of the 43.2cm bottom edge of the front upper half along
(17in) double-slide zipper to one end. the un-sewn edge of the zipper. Sew
11. Trim the top edge of the main fabric front
With the right sides together, align the together using the seam allowance.
so it measures 44.5cm (17½in) high.
zipper along the top edge of the front
lower half, letting the pulls extend 8. Press only the front upper half away
12. Install a metal handmade label with the
beyond one side. Use a zipper foot or from the zipper. Topstitch the front
bottom edge of the label centred 2.5cm (1in)
narrow foot to baste the zipper in place. piece 3mm (1⁄8in) from the seam.
up from the upper zipper seam.

TIP: The zipper is longer than needed so the

TIP: After installing, fuse a scrap of
pulls can stay out of the way while sewing.

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lightweight woven interfacing over the 15. Add basting tape to 5.1cm (2in) of each 3mm (1⁄8in) from the side and bottom edges.
wrong side of the hardware to protect your end of 1 handle piece on the wrong side.
lining fabric from any abrasion. With the right sides facing up, position the
handle ends inside the markings on the main
Attach handles fabric front. Topstitch each end of the handle
in place 3mm (1⁄2in) from the edges, up to the
marked 2.5cm (1in) line, and stitch across.
15a. Repeat Step 15 to attach the remaining
13. With the wrong sides together, fold each handle to the main fabric back. Remove the
handle piece in half lengthwise. Topstitch marks.
3mm (1⁄8in from each long side. 15b. You can now install a small rivet centred Attach the top zipper
12mm (½in) up from each end of the handles 18. With the right sides together, centre the
TIP: If desired, you can cut each of the ends if you like. zipper along the top edge of the main fabric
to be pointed or rounded to your liking. front panel using a zipper foot to baste the
Attach tabs to zipper zipper in place with the seam allowance.
Make sure the zipper pull is out of the way
as you sew.

16. With the wrong sides together, fold each

main fabric zipper tab piece in half and slide
a tab over each end of the zipper, so the
ends of the zipper are tucked inside the tabs.
Each end of the zipper should be pushed
tight against the fold of the tab.

Create interior slip pocket

14. Mark the placement of the handles on 19. With the right sides together, layer the
the right side of the main fabric front and lining front panel over the main fabric front
back panels. Measure and mark horizontal panel and zipper, aligning all the edges. Sew
lines 2.5cm (1in) and 7.6cm (3in) down from together along the top edge using the seam
the top edge. Also mark a vertical line 7.6cm allowance moving the zipper pull out of the
(3in) away from each side of the centre, way as needed.
stopping 7.6cm (3in) down from the top.
20. Press the
seam open with
17. With right sides together, pin and sew the your finger or
edges together using the seam allowance, a seam roller.
leaving an opening along the bottom edge. Topstitch 3mm
Trim the seam allowance at the corners, (1⁄8in) from each
but do not cut through the stitching. Turn side of the
the pocket right side out. Turn the seam seam, moving
allowance at the opening to the wrong side, the zipper out of
creating an even edge along the bottom. the way.
Press; then topstitch 3mm (1⁄8in) from the top
edge. With the right sides up, centre the top 21. With right sides together, centre and
edge of the pocket 7.6cm (3in) from the top baste the zipper along the top edge of the
edge of a lining panel. Pin in place. Topstitch main fabric back panel. Layer the lining back

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panel right sides together with the lining

front panel and zipper, aligning the top and
side edges. Sew together along the top
edge using the seam allowance.

22. Press the seam open with your finger 26. To create the boxed corners on the bag
or a seam roller. Topstitch 3mm (1⁄8in) from exterior, match each side seam with the
each side of the seam, moving the zipper adjacent bottom seam, with the right sides
out of the way. together. Align the raw edges. Sew together
using the seam allowance. Make sure to
23. Unzip the zipper halfway to prepare for backstitch all the seams.
turning later.

27. Repeat above to create boxed corners

TIP: Make sure the exterior zipper pocket is on the lining.
away from the top zipper, the interior slip
pocket opening is toward the zipper, and 28. Turn the bag right side out by pushing
the handles are tucked down out of the way the main fabric and lining through the
while you’re sewing. bottom, un-sewn section of the lining.

Assembling your tote bag 29. Hand sew or topstitch the opening in
24. Cut squares 5.1 × 5.1cm (2x2in) from the lining closed. Smooth the lining down
each bottom corner of the exterior and into the exterior. Gently push out the
lining pieces. corners and edges to shape the bag.

25. Sew the sides and bottom edges of Make & attach optional tassel
the lining together with a 1cm (3⁄8in) seam 30. On the wrong side of the tassel piece,
allowance, leaving about 7.6–10.2cm (3- mark a horizontal line 1cm (3⁄8in) from the
4in) un-sewn along the bottom edge. Then, top edge.
sew the sides and bottom edges of the 30a. Use a rotary cutter or scissors to cut
main fabric pieces together. Sew through fringe, starting at the bottom edge and
the zipper seams, but do not sew through stopping at the marked line. Cut every 6mm
the tabs. Trim the lining seam allowance to (¼in) or for a delicate fringe, every 3mm
6mm (¼in) wide. (1⁄8in).
30b. Apply hot or fabric glue to the right side
TIP: The wider seam allowance for the of one end of the tassel connector. With
lining will help the lining fit neatly inside the wrong sides up, position the connector
your bag. vertically, aligning the left side edges and
the short edge along the marked line.
30c. Wrap the connector around a handle
and thread the tassel through the folded
end of the tassel connector and pull tight MORE FROM THE AUTHOR
to secure it.
A Field Guide to Making Bags by Jessica
Barrera (C & T Publishing, £16.99)

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