Vegetables:

Growing Tomatoes
in Home Gardens

WA S H I N G T O N S TAT E U N I V E R S I T Y E X T E N S I O N FA C T S H E E T • F S 1 4 5 E

makeup through each generation. Hybrid varieties tend to

Crop at a Glance have desirable traits like improved vigor or disease resistance;
however, hybrids lack genetic consistency from generation
Growing season: May through October to generation. Check varieties for the initials VFNT. If all four
initials are listed on the seed packet or plant stake, the plants
Time to transplant: After the last frost date in May or June will be resistant to Verticillium wilt (V), Fusarium wilt (F),
Spacing: Approximately 4 square feet per plant
nematodes (N), and tobacco mosaic virus (T).

Days to harvest: Ranges from 65–80 days Be sure to select a plant variety that matches your taste
and cooking needs. You may want small cherry tomatoes
Average yield: 4–10 pounds per bush, depending on (1 inch) for salads, while the larger beefsteak tomatoes
variety (over 4 inches) would be best for slicing. There are also
plant varieties whose “solids-to-liquids” ratio makes them
Common starting method: Seed or transplant specifically well suited for sauces and salsas.

Choosing a Planting Site

Introduction Tomatoes grow best in full sun, so they need to be located
Tomatoes are a favorite for gardeners everywhere, whether in an area that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight
grown in a garden or container on the deck. Tomato fruit is every day. Tomatoes prefer a location with well-drained
a staple in the American diet and in many ethnic cuisines. soil; they do not grow well in a heavy clay soil. Also, the
Plus, tomatoes are naturally high in antioxidants, a chemi- soil should be high in organic matter and phosphorus.
cal that may reduce the risk of some cancers. Tomatoes will require water regularly during the growing
season, so you need access to a nearby irrigation source.
Selecting Types to Plant
Planting Guidelines
There are 7,500 varieties of tomatoes with differences
in color, shape, growth habit, length to harvest, taste, Start seeds indoors in a sunny location 6–8 weeks prior to
and disease resistance. Tomatoes are classified as either the first frost-free date. Seeds germinate best at 70°F–80°F
determinate or indeterminate. Determinate varieties and grow best at daytime temperatures of 70°F–75°F and
are bush-like, with all the tomatoes ripening about the nighttime temperatures of 60°F–65°F.
same time. Indeterminate varieties are vine-like, with
the tomatoes ripening throughout the growing season— Be sure to harden-off transplants, that is, acclimate them to
until frost kills the plant. Consider tomatoes with short being outside, before they are placed outside permanently.
growing seasons (less than 75 days) if you live in western Hardening-off transplants is necessary to promote strong,
Washington or high elevations in eastern Washington healthy plants. Start by setting transplants outside for a
because fruit needs to reach maturity quickly in cooler few hours each day in a partially sunny area. Increase the
summer temperatures. Varieties that have longer time they are out over the next week. After a week, leave
growing seasons are better suited to the warmer summer plants outside overnight. If temperatures drop below 50°F,
temperatures of eastern Washington. keep them indoors. After 12 days, you can transplant your
seedlings outdoors. Do not plant them before the frost-
If you are planning to save seeds, select an open-pollinated free date for your area because spring frost can kill young
(heirloom) plant variety that will hold true to its genetic tomato plants.

This fact sheet is part of the WSU Extension Home Garden Series.

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Performing a soil test is the best method for determining If you use stakes, check each week to see if the plant has
soil pH, as well as a plant’s potential nutrient needs and grown enough that another tie is needed. A series of free
nutrient overloads during the growing season. Tomatoes videos from the University of Maine, listed in the Further
grow best in slightly acidic soils, those with a pH between Reading section, will show you how to correctly stake, trel-
6.0 and 6.5. West of the Cascades, soil pH is often natu- lis, or basket-weave tomatoes for maximum support.
rally in this range or lower. Where pH is below 6.0, add the
manufacturer’s recommended quantity of lime (calcium Plant Maintenance
carbonate) to adjust the pH to the ideal range. East of the
Cascades, soil pH is often above the ideal range; pH can be Tomatoes can be very temperamental, and if not cared for
lowered using the manufacturer’s recommended amount of correctly, you can end up with few fruit or mostly green
elemental sulfur. tomatoes. Water is key to a healthy plant. Expect to water
about 1 inch per week during peak tomato growth. To
Typically, tomatoes require 1.5 to 2 ounces of nitrogen per determine how long it takes for an overhead sprinkler to
10 linear feet of planting bed and roughly equal amounts deliver 1 inch of water, obtain two straight-sided cans,
of phosphorus and potassium. Prior to planting, submit such as empty tuna fish cans. Set one can 12 inches away
garden soil samples to a soil-testing laboratory for nutrient- from the sprinkler head, and set the second can 18 inches
level testing. (See Further Reading section for information away from the sprinkler head. Turn the sprinkler on for
on laboratories serving the Pacific Northwest.) Based on 20 minutes. Measure the amount of water in each can after
test results, chose a fertilizer that meets the nitrogen, phos- 20 minutes using a ruler. Average the two measurements.
phorus, and potassium requirements of your site in order If the averaged water amount is less than 1 inch or more
to give your tomato plants the best possible care. For more than 1 inch, adjust the watering time based on the
information on how to calculate the amount of fertilizer to measurement. Continue testing until you know the exact
add to your tomato-growing area, see the publication Soil amount of time to let the sprinkler run so that an average
Fertility in Organic Systems: A Guide for Gardeners and Small of 1 inch of water is being supplied to the tomato plant.
Acreage Farmers (Collins et al. 2013) cited in the Further Once the plant is receiving the correct amount of water,
Reading section. using mulch will help reduce water loss.

Mixing fertilizer and other soil amendments into the soil Overwatering can cause increased leaf growth at the
immediately before planting will help get your tomatoes expense of tomato production. Too much water also
off to a good start. Early plant needs can be met by tilling encourages plant disease. Remove plant leaves touching
in the recommended quantity of lime or sulfur and one- the ground to reduce disease transmission. Try to avoid
half the annual nitrogen requirement for your planting getting water on the leaves because this stimulates fungal
area. growth. Test the soil (insert your finger into the first inch
of soil to see if it is moist) to know when water is needed.
Bury as much of the plant stem as you can when trans-
planting tomatoes. The stem, when buried, will produce As the tomato plant grows, resist providing too much
roots and promote a more vigorous tomato plant. Begin by nitrogen. Excess nitrogen stimulates leaf growth, decreas-
removing all the leaves from the lower two-thirds of the ing fruit production. Use a slow-release fertilizer in arid
plant. Dig a trench 3 inches deep, lay the transplant on its regions, where frequent watering is necessary.
side in the trench, and cover it with soil. Do not compact
the soil when replac- Pruning indeter-
ing it, instead, gently minate plants will
pat it in place. Space not increase overall
plants 18 inches apart, tomato production
and be sure to thor- but will give you
oughly water the new larger fruit earlier in
plant at this time. the season. Regularly
look for and prune
Transplanting is also suckers on the lower
the time for staking third of the stem
or caging to support as they appear on
the plants as they the plant (Figure 2).
grow heavier with A sucker is a non-
increased leaf canopy flowering, leafy shoot
and fruits. Trying to that grows in the joint
insert stakes or cages between branches and
after transplanting the main stem of the
will only damage the plant.
tomato plant. The
basket-weave method In short-season loca-
(Figure 1) is another tions, pruning will Figure 2. Remove suckers growing
support method useful Figure 1. The basket-weave allow the plant to on the lower third of the plant
for row plantings. method. focus energy on fruit stem.

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production. If left on the plant, suckers unnecessarily 3. Waiting until air temperatures are above 65°F to
divert water and energy that would otherwise be used for transplant,
fruit development. 4. Keeping water off leaves when watering,
Pest Management 5. Regularly keeping the soil around tomato plants
weed-free,
If you have a problem with plant disease or insects, you 6. Regularly removing suckers to improve air move-
need to identify the source of the problem before taking ment in the plant canopy, and
action. Using the correct approach can stop disease pro-
gression and help prevent future problems. Contact your 7. Regularly monitoring plants and promptly mov-
local WSU Extension office to help you identify plant dis- ing and discarding diseased plant material offsite.
ease or damaging insects and confirm corrective measures. (Composting does not kill many disease-causing
Consult with a WSU Master Gardener or the WSU publica- organisms, so if you put diseased plant material
tion Hortsense: Home Gardener Fact Sheets for Managing Plant in your compost pile you may accidentally infect
Problems with IPM or Integrated Pest Management at http:// other garden and landscape areas.)
pep.wsu.edu/hortsense for additional information on pest
Insects: Healthy plants are your best defense against prob-
management, including pesticide products.
lem insects. Be sure to identify the problem insect before
Diseases: Tomato production and quality can be drastically you take action to avoid killing beneficial insects acciden-
reduced when plants are damaged by disease. Reduce the tally. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides because they also
presence of plant disease by kill beneficial insects. Encouraging the presence of general
insect predators, such as lacewings or ladybugs, in your gar-
1. Purchasing seeds or transplants certified as disease- den will help reduce many insect problems. Inspect plants
free, regularly for insect damage to leaves and fruit. Minor leaf
2. Planting tomato plants in well-drained soil in a damage is not considered a problem and may not require
sunny location, action.

Common Problems
Anthracnose
(fungal disease)

Photo: Paul Bachi, University of Kentucky REC, Bugwood.org

Symptoms: Small dark spots on fruit. May also affect leaves. Dark spots have a yellow circle around
them and will become sunken.
Corrective Action: Plant in well-drained soils. Avoid overhead irrigation. Control weeds in and around the garden and remove
plant debris. Rotate crops on a three- to four-year cycle to avoid fungus surviving in the soil.
Blossom-End Rot
(nutrient deficiency)

Photo: Jeremy Cowan, WSU

Symptoms: A lesion develops on the end of the fruit that turns black and leathery. It can be caused
by low calcium, infrequent watering, uneven watering, or high temperatures early in the season.
Corrective Action: Send a soil sample in for testing. Your county extension agent can recommend soil-testing laboratories in your
area. If low in calcium, use lime or dolomite lime at least 2–4 months before planting. Plant in well-drained soils and water consistently.
Mulching plants may be helpful. Fertilize moderately to avoid buildup of salts in the soil and to prevent excessive growth.
Catfacing
(development disorder)

Photo: Jeremy Cowan, WSU

Symptoms: Affected fruits are scarred at the blossom end. Fruit appears puckered and lumpy.
Caused by low temperatures during fruit set.
Corrective Action: Avoid cultivars prone to this problem, such as “Oregon Spring.” Is limited to
early fruit or fruit developing during cool periods. Fruits set later in the season should be normal. Do not over fertilize; high levels of
nitrogen may increase the problem.

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Curly Top
(viral disease transmitted by leafhoppers)

Photo: R.S. Byther, WSU

Symptoms: Leaves thicken and become brittle. Older leaves yellow and leaf edges roll upward.
Plants are of poor quality.
Corrective Action: Do not plant tomatoes near spinach or beets. Plant disease-resistant varieties, such as “Columbian,” “Rowpac,”
“Roza,” and “Saladmaster,” among others. Pull out and destroy infected plants. Controlling leafhoppers is not effective for prevent-
ing disease.
Late Blight
(fungal disease)

Photos: Jeremy Cowan, WSU

Symptoms: Gray-green areas appear on leaves, stems, and fruit and become dark blotches that
look wrinkled. Blotches appear on upper portion of fruit.
Corrective Action: Avoid overhead watering. Remove infected plants or plant parts when symp-
toms are noticed, but do not compost them. Space plantings to provide good air circulation and
minimize humidity.
Verticillium Wilt
(fungal disease)

Photo: Gerald Holmes, Valent, Bugwood.org

Symptoms: Infected plants wilt, become stunted, and develop yellow leaves that tend to roll
inward. Yellowing occurs first on the lower leaves. Leaves dry out, turn brown, and die.
Corrective Action: Plant disease-resistant varieties. Crop rotation in following years is important.
White Mold
(fungal disease)

Photo: W.J. Sorensen, WSU

Symptoms: Attacks dead flower petals or leaves, then spreads. Look for a rapidly spreading soft rot.
Affected tissues turn gray and may be covered with a mass of cottony, white fungal growth.
Corrective Action: Avoid overhead irrigation. Plant in well-drained soils. Space plantings to improve air circulation, particularly
around the base of the plants.
Aphids

Photo: Brian Kunkle, University of Delaware, Bugwood.org

Symptoms: Infested leaves will curl about aphids. Leaves may appear sticky and shiny.
Corrective Action: Wash aphids from plants with a strong stream of water.

Slugs
(A more common problem in western WA)

Photo: Karen Jeannette

Symptoms: Foliage of older plants is raggedly chewed, while younger plants are completely
consumed. Fruit shows “hollowing damage.”
Corrective Action: Clean up weeds and debris, which provide shelter. Encourage the presence of predators, such as birds, snakes,
frogs, ducks, and predacious ground beetles. Hand-pick and kill slugs when detected (slugs feed at night). Use chemical baits with
caution around pets.

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 Spider Mites
(A more common problem in eastern WA)

Photo: W. Cranshaw, Bugwood.org

Symptoms: Whitish yellow stippling along leaf midrib. Whole leaves turn yellow, then bronze, then
die. Mites and webbing can be found on the underside of leaves.
Corrective Action: Wash mites from plants with a strong stream of water. Drought-stressed plants are susceptible to mites, so focus
on proper watering.
Tomato Hornworm

Photo: W. Cranshaw, Bugwood.org

Symptoms: Leaves chewed down to the midrib and dark pellets (frass) can be found on or under
plants.
Corrective Action: Monitor plants daily. Hand-pick and destroy hornworms. Encourage natural
enemies, including birds, spiders, and parasitic wasps, for control.

Harvest Daniels, C. 2014. Analytical Laboratories and Consultants

Serving Agriculture in the Pacific Northwest. http://
Pick tomato fruits when they reach mature color but still puyallup.wsu.edu/analyticallabs/.
retain some firmness. Size and color will depend on the
plant variety selected—yellow, orange, pink, purple, and Johnson, S., C. Krelder, and C. Miles. 2013. Vegetable
green varieties exist, as well as the typical red varieties. Grafting: Eggplants and Tomatoes. Washington State
Tomatoes usually ripen about one month after the fruit University Publication FS052E. http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/
begins to show. As the fruits continue to ripen, they will CEPublications/FS052E/FS052E.pdf. Spanish version:
begin to lose firmness, and the flavor may be affected. http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/FS052ES/
Tomatoes can be picked early, after the fruit begins to FS052ES.pdf.
change color, and will continue to ripen off the vine, with
best results occurring at temperatures from 68°F to 77°F. Miles, C., K. Kolker, G. Becker, M. Nicholson, and
T. Koskinen. 2005. Tomato Yield and Late Blight Study:
Condensed Version. http://clark.wsu.edu/volunteer/mg/
End Uses
gm_tips/TomatoTrial.html.
Tomatoes are a versatile fruit and can be used in a vari-
Miles, C. 2013. Growing Vegetables in the Home Garden.
ety of forms: fresh, frozen, juiced, pickled, stewed, dried,
Washington State University Publication EM057E. http://
preserved and canned. For details on how to use and store
cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/EM057E/EM057E.pdf.
tomato fruit, go to the National Center for Home Food
Preservation website (http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/), which University of Maine Extension. 2011. How to Grow
offers research-based recommendations for most methods Tomatoes: Staking. https://www.youtube.com/
of home food preservation. Additionally, the publication watch?v=bmpQE6s_PEY.
PNW300 Canning Tomatoes and Tomato Products can be
found at http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/ University of Maine Extension. 2011. How to Grow
handle/1957/13728/pnw300.pdf?sequence=1 and is also Tomatoes: Trellis. https://www.youtube.com/
available for purchase from the WSU Extension Online watch?v=giJwIJSHoqo.
Store at https://pubs.wsu.edu/ItemDetail.aspx?ProductID=1
4761&SeriesCode=&CategoryID=&Keyword=PNW300. University of Maine Extension. 2011. How to Grow
Tomatoes: Basket Weave. https://www.youtube.com/
Additional Reading watch?v=XSf3aSj46jo.

Cogger, C. 2012. Raised Beds—Deciding If They Benefit Washington State University Extension. 2014. Hortsense:
Your Vegetable Garden. Washington State University Home Gardener Fact Sheets for Managing Plant
Publication FS075E. http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/ Problems with IPM or Integrated Pest Management.
CEPublications/FS075E/FS075E.pdf. Washington State University. http://pep.wsu.edu/
hortsense.
Collins, D., C. Miles, and R. Koenig. 2013. Soil Fertility
in Organic Systems: A Guide for Gardeners and Small
Acreage Farmers. Washington State University Publication
PNW646. http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/
PNW646/PNW646.pdf.

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By Gary Fredricks, County Director, WSU Cowlitz County Extension; Jeremy Cowan, Horticulture Regional Specialist, WSU Spokane County Extension;
and Catherine Daniels, Pesticide Coordinator, Washington State Pest Management Resource Service, WSU Puyallup Research and Extension Center.

Header photo by Jeremy Cowan, WSU.

Use pesticides with care. Apply them only to plants, animals, or sites as listed on the label. When mixing and applying pesticides, follow all label
precautions to protect yourself and others around you. It is a violation of the law to disregard label directions. If pesticides are spilled on skin or clothing,
remove clothing and wash skin thoroughly. Store pesticides in their original containers and keep them out of the reach of children, pets, and livestock.

Copyright 2014 Washington State University

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Issued by Washington State University Extension and the U.S. Department of Agriculture in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914. Extension
programs and policies are consistent with federal and state laws and regulations on nondiscrimination regarding race, sex, religion, age, color, creed, and
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intended. Published September 2014.

FS145E