3

Ecotourism in The Gambia

Rita Turner
“Tourism should contribute to, rather than exploit… It should be active rather
than passive, emphasizing cultural exchange rather than mere sightseeing”
Michael Kaye 1980

Tourism is one of the world’s largest industries. The startling amounts of attention directed toward
It constitutes 10 percent of the global gross national the tourists was sometimes unwanted, but clearly
product and employs approximately 10 percent of encouraged by both Gambians and tourists. Gambian
the world’s workforce (DFID 2). In search of pristine women and men spent all day strolling up and down
holiday settings, people from developed countries are the beaches, selling peanuts, mangoes, and jewelry to
traveling to the Third World in increasing numbers, tourists who were laid out across the beaches. How
offering significant economic benefits to those rewarding could this be? The situation was clearly
countries that can meet the demands of vacationers. imbalanced and degrading. As I began to look into the
Ideally, tourism could channel “leisure money” from motivations of the vendors, I learned about the effects
wealthy countries into the growing economies of of the tourism industry in The Gambia. There is a
countries such as The Gambia. Therein lies a potential complex culture growing around tourism that should
symbiosis between the tourist, who seeks an enjoyable make it a priority consideration among leaders as well
and memorable visit, and the people whose livelihoods as tourists and local people.
are built around the demands of the tourist. However,
the tourism industry has introduced a number of threats What is Ecotourism?
to its own success and moreover, to the well being of
host countries. Ecotourism is generally understood as
The problems that are introduced by the tourism “environmentally and socially responsible travel
industry often outweigh the benefits. The Manila to natural areas that promotes conservation, has
Declaration on World Tourism states that “tourism
does more harm than good to people and societies
in Third World countries” (Honey 1999: 9). Through
my research in The Gambia, I learned about some of
the major problems inherent in the tourism industry,
and recognized ecotourism as a solution to many of
these problems.
What I saw and experienced during my first few
weeks in The Gambia left me with little doubt about
my own need to look closely at the implications of
my trip to West Africa. The tourism industry was
inextricably tied to my presence in The Gambia and I
wanted a better understanding of it. Being a tourist in
Africa was a mixed blessing. Africa stunned me—it
is a beautiful place, warm in many ways, and full of
unique opportunities. However, as a white American
tourist, I could not blend in at all. Being a tourist
was isolating and very awkward. The tourist groups,
where I would fit in readily, did not appeal to me. They
spent time on the beaches mingling with one another,
forming an enclave of wealthy outsiders. There was
a minimal effort among most tourists to stray outside
Africa’s cultural and natural assets hold an enormous
the hotel area and learn about The Gambia. appeal to tourists from around the world.
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low visitor impact and provides for beneficially such responsibility. It only makes sense that nature
active socioeconomic involvement of local people” tour sites should promote conservation, else risk the
(Gorman 2000: 5). Constant changes in the tourism demise of their business. Other types of ecotourism are
industry have made ecotourism difficult to define, reliant on cultural and economic conditions, therefore
as it gradually emerged from conventional tourism. should be especially considerate of local people and
However, ecotourism can be differentiated from other the economic implications of their tours.
types of tourism by two major factors: the objectives Ecotourism needs to be promoted because it
of the tourist, and their impact on the host country. develops sustainability. Many global industries
People who are traveling to expose themselves to today are on a destructive path, exploiting their own
local ecology and/or culture are often categorized as resources and turning their back on the repercussions.
ecotourists. They are true ecotourists only when their From air pollution to child labor, the developed world is
travel promotes conservation and benefits the social notorious for building upon its own demise. Long-term
conditions and economy of the host country. It will effects are forgotten in the face of instant gratification.
become clear how these factors fit together as we Global industries, especially, need to closely examine
examine ecotourism and traditional tourism in The the impact of their business and make themselves a
Gambia. positive part of the world economy.
There are a few traditional forms of tourism that Tourist sites are notorious for wastefulness,
are included in ecotourism. People visiting a foreign pollution, and an overall disregard for the surrounding
country to see indigenous wildlife are known as nature community. However, a tourist who has a genuine
tourists. Their business is directed toward rural areas, interest in the environment and culture of the country
and they often make sacrifices in accommodations and he is visiting will stimulate an entire network of
include physical activity in their vacation. Adventure positive development and interaction. Not only
tourism is more physically demanding and less will tourists increase their own awareness, the tour
wildlife-oriented, but certainly involves travel “off operator and community will recognize the importance
the beaten path.” Less conventional tours involve of conservation and sustainability. People will protect
language studies, music lessons, art training, and what they benefit from. If birdwatching is profitable,
other cultural studies and exchanges. These are the people will value and protect the local bird population
objectives of an ecotourist – a set of goals that set them in an effort to attract tourists. As the value of local
apart from tourists who seek little more than luxury resources increases, it becomes immediately beneficial
in their vacation. for tourism businesses and local communities to
The objectives of the tourist are only part of increase social and environmental awareness. Hence,
ecotourism, as it also requires a very high level of all parties are compelled by profit rather then by protest
responsibility and awareness. The UK’s Department to adopt sustainable practices.
for International Development has outlined a “triple Ecotourism is being adopted by many Third World
bottom line” challenge to tourists and tour operators, nations as a central component of their development
declaring that economic, environmental, and social strategies. Countries such as Belize and Madagascar
factors must be attended to simultaneously (DFID were quick to adopt nature tourism as a source of
3). The very nature of ecotourism is dependent on income. A 1994 study revealed that 70 percent of
travelers from the United States took vacations that
involve nature, adventure, or cultural exchanges. The
Ecotourism Society has projected a strong growth
in ecotourism trends in the 21st century, estimating
annual growth rates varying between 10 and 30
percent (Honey 1999: 7). As ecotourism continues
to grow in popularity, its global impact will also
increase. However, the price paid for sustainability
is speed of growth. Because ecotourism is designed
to be small, it will not have a sweeping effect on the
global economy. Its steady growth does need to be
recognized and promoted.
Abuko Nature Reserve is a beautiful example of
successful nature tourism in The Gambia.
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Tourism in The Gambia: Its Growth and Effects local resources. If The Gambia is to benefit in full from
the influx of tourists, it must establish its own tourist
Like many Third World countries, The Gambia sites, encouraging government or community owned
has recognized and pursued the enormous economic and operated establishments. Ecotourist sites are ideal
potential in the tourism industry. The tourism sector for this type of entrepreneurship because local people
in The Gambia increased by 30 percent between 1994 would logically be the best hosts. Unfortunately, this
and 1999, a higher growth rate than any other sector is not always the case with ecotourism. The sites are
in the national economy, bringing in 18 percent of The frequently run by foreigners. However, a foreign
Gambia’s Gross Domestic Product (Sallah 1999: 2). operator at an ecotourist site is bound to take more
The importance of tourism in The Gambia is a trend care in directing money flow into the host country than
reflected in the economies of many other developing would a conventional tour operator.
nations.
However, as countries such as The Gambia
embrace tourism, they become dependent on other
countries and subject to economic crises beyond
their control. This dependence is not on something like
grain exports or energy sources, which are in constant
demand. Countries that have integrated tourism into
their development strategies are dependent on the
leisure demand. Vacations are an extra asset, a bonus
– no nation of people needs to travel on holiday. The
tourism industry is based on a reliable supply and a
very unstable demand.
Slight shifts in politics and global economy can, and
do, cause major setbacks in the development of tourist
sites such as The Gambia. The Gambia has become Cultural heritage sites, such as the stone circle megaliths
wary of its own reliance on tourism for a number of at Wassu, are among Gambia’s many tourist attractions.
reasons. In 1994, a coup d’etat discouraged tourists
from visiting The Gambia, which hurt its tourism
industry, especially the informal sector. Britain and The tourism industry has made a notable comeback
Scandinavia released travel advisories, causing The in The Gambia since 1994. Currently, one out of
Gambia to lose at least 60% of its tourists. This should every ten people living in The Gambia each year can
serve as an example and as a warning of the dangers be classified as a tourist, making tourism a central
faced by developing countries reliant on the tourism social, economic, and environmental issue. Although
industry. I was in The Gambia during the off-season, it was
In addition, the investments made by developing immediately evident that tourism is an important
countries are often unreturned. In The Gambia, the part of the growth of this country, and that its effects
government has funded the construction of beachside are often detrimental. As I was introduced to tourist
infrastructure, hoping to increase revenues by attracting areas in The Gambia, I saw obvious incongruencies;
more tourists. However, most of the hotels and many swimming pools, air conditioning, and a variety of
restaurants and clubs are owned and operated by personal services made available in a country where
Europeans. Consequently, the direct money flow most people do not have electricity. There were
that The Gambia was hoping to tap into is moving Gambian maids and waiters whose incomes were
out of the country. The money that does reach the dependent on tourists. Children reliably tugged at my
Gambian economy often does so indirectly, through clothes, asking for pens and candy. Taxi drivers and
some form of “trickle-down.” This leaves Gambians vendors vied for my attention. Tourism is not a petty
further dependent on the whim of the tourist. If tourists business to Gambians – it is a national concern that
do not buy groceries, souvenirs, and pay for services needs international recognition.
in The Gambia, their money will not contribute to the According to the secretary of state for tourism in
development of The Gambia. It is often the case that The Gambia, 70 percent of The Gambia’s tourists
hotel owners or tour operators import foods and other arrive between November and April. This presents a
goods to cater to the tourists’ needs, rather than using
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number of problems. People who work in the tourism Most tourists find that bumsters will do just about
industry are frequently left unemployed during the anything for a tip. This has led to prostitution and sex
summer months. The fact that The Gambia is a popular tourism, in addition to simple dishonesty between the
destination during the European winter indicates that two parties.
tourists are seeking the infamous “four S’s” (sun, sea, The many problems with tourism are often
sand, and sex). The high demand for beachside resorts overlooked because of its incredible potential as an
and holiday provisions has caused overpopulation and economic and social benefit. There are at least two
pollution problems along The Gambia’s coastline. The major benefits offered by the tourism industry. First of
crowding in tourist areas poses a serious environmental all, tourism can serve as a way to redistribute wealth.
threat. Overpopulation in urban areas causes the Tourism is becoming a known source of poverty
erosion, litter, and pollution that we are too familiar alleviation, when it is sustainable and established
with. Despite the damage that haphazard development in a way that channels money into the government
has caused, it is needed upcountry. Overconcentration and communities. This is a difficult undertaking
of infrastucture along the coast has also impeded inland for countries such as The Gambia, where foreign
development. As our group traveled inland, it was countries have already laid a foundation that is neither
quite obvious that national development was uneven. sustainable nor economically beneficial to them. Local
Further from the coast the hotels, restaurants, clubs, entrepreneurs and government organizations face stiff
and vendors practically disappeared. As they did, the competition among these foreign establishments.
relationship between the tourist and local people lost However, there is great promise and good will in the
some of its obvious material incentives. implementation of tourism as a poverty alleviation
Tourists are generally people with leisure money strategy. The need for cash flow in developing nations
and time - not exactly a representative cross-section cannot be satiated by tourist dollars, but it can be
of any society. However, they represent entire quenched to some extent. The business is one of leisure
continents through the eyes of local communities. money, which could be put to use in communities
Laden with camera equipment, exotic apparel, and where it is most needed. Imagine knowing that the
foreign standards, the average tourist leaves quite an money paid for a week in a hotel will be used to help
impression. Citizens of The Gambia and other third build a hospital or a school.
world countries use these impressions to form an
image of a Westerner or European. Likewise, tourists
take their own half-formed impressions home. Because
tourists are veritable money bags, they attract people
seeking money. Interactions with vendors, beggars,
and opportunists of all shapes and sizes leave the
tourist with a lopsided experience. Two cultures meet
each other face to face with uninformed expectations,
reinforcing negative stereotypes.
This phenomenon manifests itself in a number of
inappropriate practices. As tourists settle along the
beaches and create a seasonal influx of money, people
in rural areas are deprived of the benefits offered by
the tourism industry. Rural urban drift occurs, and a Hotels in the coastal areas, such as the Friendship, help
population of mostly young men travels to urban areas, confine the benefits of tourism to the Greater Banjul Area.
seeking access to the profits made available by tourists.
They leave their farms and families with fewer hands
and more work. All too often, they end up roaming Additionally, tourism offers extraordinary
the streets and beaches, unemployed and surrounded educational opportunities. People around the world
by wealthy vacationers. From this population come understand that travel is an increasingly easy and
bumsters. Any European or American who has set foot effective way to learn about the world. However,
on a well-known beach or club scene in The Gambia educational opportunities must be offered. There
is familiar with bumsters. These people, again mostly are hordes of tourists whose stay in The Gambia is
young men, will offer to act as a guide, teacher or confined to the beachfront hotels and restaurants.
driver, hoping to tap the tourist’s effusion of money. Although this is exactly what some people want from a
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vacation, others would jump at the opportunity to study otherwise be bumsters can become knowledgeable
batik, to go fishing in a Gambian pirogue, or to learn foresters, artists, fishing guides, and the list goes
to cook benachin. The tourism industry should cater on. They would be given the chance to work with
to both demands, offering tourists a “real experience” tourists while continuing to bring money back into
as well as a relaxing holiday. communities. At the same time, they would interact
with tourists who want to learn about their culture
Ecotourism as a Solution instead of tourists who would take them back to the
hotel room. The entire mindset changes. Ecotourism is
As I looked into the problems and potential that lie a profitable way to show local communities the value
in tourism, I began to see ecotourism as the ideal form of what is at their feet. If people see that tourists are
of tourism. It seems to embody the potential benefits interested in their culture and ecology, they will place
of the tourism industry, displacing the problems. A a higher value on it. This appreciation manifests itself
well-developed ecotourism business can realistically in environmental and cultural preservation – the people
expect to form a synergy between the tourist and the are given financial and personal motives to protect and
host country, rather than the predatory relationship that cherish their local resources. Sustainability is a built-in
has begun to characterize tourism in the Third World. attribute of ecotourism.
Ecotourism is designed to give tourists access to local
culture and ecology. This creates a whole new situation
- very different from packages designed to isolate and
pamper the tourist. As a sustainable tourism industry
is built, ecotourists can help alleviate intercultural
tensions, poverty, and ecological stress.
One of the central elements of ecotourism’s
benefits is the customers that ecotourism attracts.
They are generally seeking interaction rather than
isolation, rural beauty rather than urban bustle, and
adventure over luxury. This naturally alleviates some
of the aforementioned problems with tourism in The
Gambia. In The Gambia, birdwatchers, music students,
and artisans are among the people who are seeking a
little more from a vacation. Because these tourists want The beaches along West Africa’s coast attract not only
masses of European visitors during the winter months,
to visit the lesser-developed parts of The Gambia, they
but cattle during the off-season.
visit upcountry camps, encouraging rural development.
This reduces further crowding and pollution in the
more popular areas. It also reduces urban drift and Another appeal unique to ecotourism is the fact
increases to the bumster population. that it could give a country like The Gambia a chance
In addition, ecotourists are not solely focused on to benefit from its own underdevelopment. Lack of
the “four S’s.” If their priority is not a winter getaway industrialization has left room for the preservation
to a sunny coast, they are more likely to visit The of culture and ecology. This is a unique resource
Gambia during the off-season. This offers seasonal that should not be left untapped. Ecotourism is a
stability to the tourism business, which currently rare example of positive exploitation. Low levels
suffers serious setbacks because of its fluctuations. of industrialization could become a hindrance to
Geographic diversification gives rural communities the development of the country, but ecotourism
access to the tourism industry, while seasonal demonstrates that it can also contribute to its growth.
diversification stabilizes income. The very nature of With tourism already comprising eighteen percent
the tourist’s demands and motivations has already of The Gambia’s GNP, it seems ideal to harness this
begun to stimulate a snowballing of positive effects. burgeoning business through sustainable ecotourism.
By taking tourism beyond the beachside holiday, While there is still rare wildlife, beautiful landscapes,
ecotourists diversify demand, therefore diversifying and startlingly unique culture to preserve, why not
and stabilizing the supply. preserve it by presenting it in such a way that it can
This handful of tourists is interested in The be shared and understood by people from all over the
Gambia and what it has to offer. Boys who might world.
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Methods of efforts to bring tourism to the upriver provinces.
Tendaba works closely with the neighboring village,
To begin researching ecotourism, I gathered sometimes sending visitors to stay in the village for
reading materials that would give me a stronger grasp about two nights a week. Birdwatchers are common
on tourism and ecotourism on a global scale as well among the tourists that stay at Tendaba Camp, but
as in The Gambia. As the group traveled to different outside the tourist season (October-April) Tendaba is
parts of the country, I worked with Bill Roberts to plan an area used for conferences. The camp used to have a
trips to ecotourist sites. I also planned meetings with variety of caged animals, but in 1990 received orders
people in The Gambia who would be knowledgeable from Banjul to release them. However, the camp did
on the subject. This combination of interviews, case not lose its focus on local wildlife. The boat rides,
studies, and reading would give me a good amount of bush taxis, and various activities available at Tendaba
information during a short period of time. I was not demonstrate a continuous focus on ecology. Although
able to interview ecotourists, as our visit took place Tendaba Camp is not strictly an ecotourism site, it
during the off-season. Therefore, what I learned could easily provide the experience that an ecotourist
was mostly from the side of the suppliers instead of seeks. By successfully bringing tourist business
the consumers. I learned about what was available, upcountry, Tendaba has provided many opportunities
what was difficult to provide, and how the business that benefit the local people.
worked.
My first meeting was with Jackie Gorman, an
Ecotourism Development officer at Abuko Nature
Reserve. She sent me on my way with a head full
of different ideas to wrestle with and a stack of
papers that would later give my research foundation
and direction. As I looked closer at tourism and
the issues presented by the business, I learned how
dependent The Gambia had become on tourism and
how unreliable the industry had proven. I began to see
the potential role of ecotourism in The Gambia as the
problems in package tourism became more obvious.
The readings from Jackie emphasized the importance
of sustainability and the need for local people to have
access to the tourism industry.
Now that I had a grasp on the enormity of the Sign that points the way to Tendeba tourist camp, one
tourism industry and could see the possibility of a win- of the earliest upriver camps in The Gambia. Hunting
bushpig used to be a draw, but now people come for
win situation in a potentially ruinous business, I looked
birdwatching and other eco-activities.
into ecotourism businesses in The Gambia. I identified
a few ecotourism sites and planned visits, making a
point to include old and new establishments, Gambian Next, I arranged to meet with Adama Bah from
owners, European owners, and partnerships, and I Tourism Concern for an interview. I probably learned
looked at sites that had a clear focus on ecotourism and more from him in a morning than I did in all my reading
those that did not. I was interested in the opportunities and research. Mr. Bah affirmed the basic ideas I had
and motivations that caused tour operators to adopt about tourism and ecotourism, but made very clear the
ecotourism. What issues were they most concerned complexities of a situation that is easily oversimplified.
with? What obstacles did ecotourist sites face? He gave me a brief history of tourism and insight into
the role of ecotourism in The Gambia. After describing
Findings the 1994 coup d’etat and the resultant travel advisories
from Europe, Adama explained the role of Tourism
My first interview was with Sarjo Touray, the Concern, which is a local NGO, established to stabilize
general manager of Tendaba Camp, where we had the tourism industry and maximize local benefits.
stopped twice in our journey upriver and back. After the infamous travel advisories were
Tendaba Camp was well established, opened by Swiss withdrawn, The Gambia Tourism Concern was
entrepreneurs in 1972. The camp is a good example established and began working to rebuild the tourism
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industry in The Gambia as a self-reliant resource. One more stable and independent the business becomes.
of their most serious challenges is repaying the loans Sustainability must be social as well environmental
that were taken in the 1960s, when tourism became a and economic. Bumsters and foreign tour operators
significant part of the Gambian economy. These loans can find ways to play off of one another’s objectives
paid for the infrastructure of the beach strip hotels and and create a system of mutual benefit.
restaurants and are now due for payment. Gambians My perspective on the relationship between
are paying for these loans through taxes. According tourists and Gambians was reaffirmed as Adama Bah
to Mr. Bah, the beach strip consumes more energy described his own frustrations with the “Santa Claus”
and water than the rest of The Gambia combined, but image that had been established by the Scandinavians
the whole of Gambia is paying for it. This is a perfect and other tourists who initiated the tourism industry
example of what happens when sustainability takes a in The Gambia. The first visitors to the country
back seat to quick profits. Lack of foresight on the part became famous for giving out small gifts, especially
of the government as well as tour operators created to children. Today, children as well as adults expect
dangerous imbalances in infrastructure and income. things from tourists. This is reinforced as the tourists
The majority of the tours that come into The Gambia keep giving away and local people keep asking for
are part of package deals, which involve a tour operator more. Adama Bah sees the integrity of his people
who is paid to lead groups of tourists and organize threatened as begging becomes more acceptable
their accommodations. These tour operators are rarely among the younger generations. As a child, Adama
Gambians, but they work through Gambian ground had been told that to eat someone else’s food would
operators, who receive an average of 25% of the tour cause you to choke. When tourists give out pens and
operator’s profits. These ground operators make more candy in an effort to be charitable they are also helping
direct arrangements for accommodations, and other to build a tense and materialistic relationship between
logistical needs in the country. One can easily see that tourists and Gambians.
The Gambia could profit by establishing independent People such as Adama are striving to reform the
tourism programs and eliminating the foreign tour tourism industry in a way that promotes responsibility
operators. The middleman, in this case, has proven among tourists and dignity throughout local
harmful by isolating tourists from local communities communities. Sensitization and education are the
and directing profits out of the country. tools being used to combat the damaging effects of
Much of the money that tourism brings into The tourism. Most tourists probably have no idea what is
Gambia is through the informal sector. This includes wrong with giving a child a piece of candy. Indeed,
the taxi drivers, craftsmen, bumsters, and anyone who it is very easy to believe that this is helpful and it is
benefits from the presence of the tourists. This sector difficult to explain how something that seems so kind
has become highly competitive as people realize can be such a problem. Local people are no more likely
that they could benefit from contact with a tourist. to recognize the problems that they are encouraging by
The Association for Small Scale Entrepreneurs in accepting a gift. The only solution to this is education.
Tourism (ASSET) is working to find alternatives for
the informal sector. If the people that comprise the
informal sector were to be organized and securely
employed through the tourism industry, profits could
be redirected and social problems would be addressed.
Bumsters and vendors, taxi drivers and artisans, are a
largely untapped work force because of the seasonality
of tourism as well as high competition among the
informal sector. Because ecotourism offers secure
employment and reducing competition in urban areas,
it is encouraged by ASSET.
Major hotels and tourist sites can create constructive
outlets for the informal sector by making a point to
hire Gambians onto their staff. Even if the owners are
foreign, some of their income would find its way back Bill Roberts at the Soma-Farrafenni ferry crossing. These
to local communities through the informal sector. The kids were either selling water, juice, peanuts, or wanted to
more they involve local people and local resources the exchange addresses.
31
Some tourist camps have effectively educated local encourage visitors not to isolate themselves at tourist
people about the detrimental effects of begging. sites. People from all over the world can converge here
Airlines are being asked to encourage awareness to learn about Gambian culture, regardless of their
among their travelers. Ecotourism is a form of tourism artistic experience.
that incorporates sensitization and education. Changes Anne’s employees are Gambians, the food served at
brought about by ecotourism in the tourism industry Traditions is local, and the artwork sold at Traditions
would help The Gambia reach the self-reliance that is local. This is a business that keeps the money flow
Adama and his co-workers seek. from tourism properly directed. Mr. Bah mentioned
My next interviews were further upcountry - in hotels along the beach strip serving imported jams
Basse. I stayed with Dana Mitchell, a Peace Corps while Gambian mangoes rotted in the streets. Anne
volunteer in Mansajang village. Thanks to the has taken a responsible and resourceful approach to
hospitality of Dana and her family, I was able to get this problem and found ways to use the resources of
two interviews completed and worked with more local communities to channel money to the places it
independence and comfort than I would on any other is most needed.
excursion. After the full day of travel that it took to Directly across the river is a new tourist camp,
get into Basse, I slept in Dana’s compound and took which I visited briefly. I met Alieu Jallow, the assistant
a bike to meet Anne Slind at Traditions, a restaurant manager at Fuladu camp, who was kind enough to sit
and craft center along the riverside. down and tell me about the camp. The proprietor is
Over a cold drink, Anne shared the history of her German and has a Gambian business partner, both of
business and some of her own views on tourism. Her whom understood that tourism needed to be spread
establishment is a good example of the positive impact into the eastern regions of The Gambia. By building
that tourism can have in The Gambia. Mrs. Slind saw their camp near Basse, the entrepreneurs have already
in The Gambia a wonderful opportunity to provide improved the local employment situation. They also
artisans with an outlet for their products. She and encourage people to visit the neighboring village and
her husband opened Traditions in 1995 as a central hope to establish a program like the one at Tendaba,
marketing point for artisans. Hoping to encourage the arranging overnight stays and cultural education in
use of local skills as income generation, Anne hosts the village.
Gambian and European artists, who exchange ideas
and techniques in such crafts as weaving, batik, and
textiles. This is the kind of interaction that ecotourism
promotes – a sharing instead of a taking. This is also
the reason that most of Anne’s clients are returning
clients. Tour guides bring their groups back because
they recognize a positive exchange and wish to

“Traditions” was once a trade depot, probably run by Weaving is among the traditional crafts in The Gambia
one of the Lebanese families living in Basse. for which Anne hopes to provide an outlet.
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 A few days later, I traveled to Tumani Tenda for
more interviewing. I had heard from Jackie and Adama
Bah that it was an excellent example of community-
owned and -operated camp. The process of getting an
interview was as eye-opening as the interview itself.
There were no other guests at the camp, but I assumed
the staff would be there and would direct me to the
manager. I was perplexed when everyone said that he
or she was the manger. Completely unsure of whom
to interview, I almost decided to give up on research
at this camp. However, as the afternoon went on, I
found that a committee had been called. A group of
men, women, elders (including the alkalo) and youths Members of the Tumani Tenda management group.
trickled in from the village and joined me under the
pavilion to address my questions. It turned out that the salt making, tie dye, and boat trips in an effort to give
camp is run by a committee of representatives from visitors a sample of village life. Visitors are encouraged
the village and that all important matters are addressed to cook their own food by buying ingredients from the
by the entire village. villagers. Guides are available for hikes through the
forest that surrounds Tumani Tenda. This camp is an
ideal example of an ecotourism site. Because it is
village-owned and -operated, it has been built with
local materials and by people with an environmental
and social awareness that is unrivaled by foreign
enterprises.
I was impressed by the motivation and the
efforts that these people have put into the camp.
They have made the most of minimal materials
and limited transportation and communication,
building a beautiful camp that can show an interested
tourist what The Gambia has to offer. Currently, the
committee is struggling to obtain more funding from
the government. It is extremely difficult to receive
support for such a young business. Investments will
Sign that shows the road to Tumani Tenda tourist camp. come as profits increase, but this will be a slow process.
As an ecotourist site, Tumani Tenda holds enormous
Tumani Tenda is a village-owned and -operated potential. With the continuation of advising, funding,
camp, which is why everyone claimed to be the etc., Tumani Tenda will grow and give the people of
manager. The village decided in 1996 that a tourist the village the income that they have certainly earned
camp would be a good source of income for the village, and will put to good use.
which needs medical and educational facilities, but is The committee that operates Tumani Tenda is
not making sufficient money through agriculture alone. building a camp that will fund the needs of the
Beginning with fifty bags of cement and support from village and provide tourists with a true “taste of The
the National Environment Agency, the village began to Gambia.”
build their camp. They received partial funding from My next two subjects were closer to Bakau, as the
the government and advising from Helga Linnae, trip was coming to a close. I traveled with Bill Roberts
a more experienced tour handler. As they gathered to Gunjur, a very active and affluent village where we
bed sheets, mosquito netting, and various other visited three camps that were situated along the beach.
commodities for the tourists, the people of Tumani There was a village-owned and operated camp called
Tenda saw the advantages in ecotourism. A village Rasta Kunda, where the people who were working
such as the one at Tumani Tenda has a lot to offer a on the camp are effectively bringing money into the
tourist who wants to learn about The Gambia. village by offering tourists a beachside stay with
They offer batik lessons, fishing, drum lessons, available drumming, dancing, and various programs
33
 Tourism) meeting that Adama Bah had invited me
to. At the meeting, I saw many familiar faces. It
was a chance for me to see some of the people I had
been working with and hear what they were doing to
address the challenges faced by tourism enterprises.
The businesses represented were either separate from
package tours or wanted to work with a group of other
tour handlers to improve the social and environmental
impacts of their businesses.
At the meeting, I learned of various ways
that ASSET is working to spread the word about
ecotourism. Brochures are underway and an award
program is being established to encourage sustainable
tourism. Awards will be given to the businesses who
show the most environmental awareness, sociocultural
awareness, authenticity in the experiences offered by
the site, use of local supplies, and economic awareness,
to name a few. The year 2002 has been named by the
United Nations as the ecotourism year in hopes of
encouraging global support of ecotourism. With the
international support that will be provided by the UN
in conjunction with community level organizations
such as ASSET, ecotourism is sure to see a significant
growth.

Balafon player with young boys watching at Tumani

Tenda.

initiated by the villagers.

Tanje Village Museum also
provides a good site for ecotourism.
Tanje Museum presents Gambian
crafts, wildlife, and culture in the
museum and through a tour of
compound housing. As is the case
with most of these younger businesses
that have pulled away from the beach
strip, advertisement is a problem, and
the manager, Mr. Bayo, complained
of a particularly slow season.
Transportation and communication
are serious hindrances to those tourist
sites that been formed off the beaten
path.
On our last day in The Gambia,
I attended an ASSET (Association
for Small Scale Entrepreneurs in
Rita (right) with Abdoulaye Bayo (center) and Amy Lawson (left) at the
Tanje Village Museum. Abdoulaye was the former curator for the National
Museum of The Gambia.

34
Conclusion standards by choice. If all goes well, these tourists will
leave behind perspective and resources comparable
Ecotourism maintains a special role in developing to those they gain. And this comes from little things.
nations because it develops the very things that are Serve the tourists mango jam and instant coffee, but
exploited by other forms of tourism. It offers potential teach them to prepare their own domada. Replace the
methods of alleviating a number of problems, from air conditioner with straw fans. The luxuries provided
pollution to poverty. This is because the very heart for tourists can be ungainly and unwanted. Sometimes
of ecotourism is sensitivity and genuine interest in the best way to make someone feel at home is to offer
social and ecological situations. Despite the many them what is at hand – nothing more, nothing less.
problems with tourism, there is plenty to be gained I have found a very admirable effort to establish a
through responsible practices. The promise of creating strong ecotourism program throughout The Gambia.
a positive and constructive relationship between However, the success of ecotourism requires
tourists and their destinations becomes a reality support and assistance at many levels, varying from
through ecotourism. international to local. Although few Gambians were
This presentation of ecotourism is certainly ideal. able to define ecotourism, they understood the potency
Ecotourism is not a perfect business. Because of its of the tourism industry and the importance of social
local focus, it is small and slow-growing. These are and environmental awareness. They understand the
obstacles that will become more manageable as the need for independence, the need for conservation and
business is pursued. Additionally, tourists do have for changes in economic patterns. Actually meeting
various interests and people are fully entitled to these needs presents many problems, since low levels
choose an isolated and luxurious holiday in place of of development perpetuate obstacles to sustainable
a more active one. Conventional tourism is exactly growth. However, lack of development also means
what some people are looking for when they travel, but the array of opportunities for change and sustainable
ecotourism should be offered and advertised as much growth are different in developing countries such as
as package tours. Ecotourism’s positive influence is The Gambia. Mutual benefit is key in the development
built in through sustainability; its benefits are simply of relations between developing countries and wealthy
its direct and logical effects. countries. Tourists and Gambians have only to utilize
Ecotourism presents a way for people to enter a the potential for an extraordinary relationship.
country at a comfortable level and adjust their own

Rita sketches the beautiful scenery at Katchikally crocodile pond, Bakau old town.
35
Works Cited

Department for International Development (DFID).

Changing the Nature of Tourism.

Gorman, Jackie. 2000 An Ecotourism Development

and Support Strategy for The Gambia. Department
of Parks and Wildlife Management, Abuko Nature
Reserve: Ecotourism Development Unit.

Honey, Martha. 1999. Ecotourism and Sustainable

Development; Who Owns Paradise? Washington D.C.:
Island Press.

Sallah, Halifa. 1999 Report on a Seminar on

Private Small-Scale and Community-Based Tourism
Enterprises.

Acknowledgements

I would like to thank the following people for

their assistance with my project. Their time, their One of the many sculptures found on top of the old
enthusiasm, support, and resourcefulness shaped my French fort on Gorée island.
research as well as my experience in The Gambia.

Jackie Gorman, Ecotourism Development Officer

Mamadu Wali
Adama Bah, Tourism Concern
Sarjo Touray, General Manager Tendaba Camp,
L.R.D.
Anne Slind, Traditions, Basse, U.R.D.
Alieu Jallow, Fuladu Camp, Basse, U.R.D.
Dana Mitchell, Bubacarr, Baldeh and the Baldeh
family, Basse, U.R.D.
Tumani Tenda Ecotourism Committee:
Sulayman Sanko
Kebba Sanyang
Ehetuh Muhammed Sanyang
Muhammed Lamin Sanyang
Sally Sanko
Yassin Sanko
Yaya Sanko
Fatu Sanyang
Binta Sanyang
Abdoulie Bayo Tanje Village Museum, Tanje Village
W.D
The Friendship Hotel Staff, Independence Stadium,
Bakan

Statue at Juffure village slave museum commemorating

the spirit of resistance.
36