Easy Electrical Repairs
Easy Electrical Repairs
Easy Electrical Repairs
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Easy
Electrical
Repairs
By Charles Dunne
with Richard V. Nunn
Copyright ® 1976 by Oxmoor House, Inc.
Book Division of The Progressive Farmer Company
P.O. Box 2463, Birmingham, Alabama 35202.
Outside meter-
Meter box
Main switch
and fuse box
By the time the current gets to the Keeping power in the line
transformer that serves the houses on It has been noted that voltage is the
your block, the voltage has been pressure pushing the current through
reduced to perhaps 2300 and finally electric wires. Most electric power com-
comes into your home as 230 volts. panies maintain a nominal pressure of
We are all familiar with power 115 volts in their lines, although this
failures, especially during electrical will vary from 110 to 121 volts. Your
storms. In some places only the power home's wiring and modern electrical
on one street goes out; in other areas, appliances are made to function within
whole square miles are blacked out. this pressure range. If the pressure gets
From the description of the power dis- much higher than this, the wiring and
tribution network, you can see why this appliances may be damaged; if it gets
happens. When a transformer is hit, much lower, they lose their efficiency.
every power line beyond it in the net- For the most part, power companies
work fails because it is no longer pass- are able to control their line voltage
ing power along. Thus, if the quite well, but they face the problem of
transformer that serves your block is how people use electricity. Electricity
hit, only the few homes it serves will go must be put on the power lines as it is
black. But if a substation serving a generated. This means that when the
whole neighborhood is hit, hundreds of demand is low, some generators must
homes will be blacked out until its be turned off; when the demand in-
transformer can be repaired. creases, more generators must be
The electric power coming to your started.
house over this network of power lines At 3 a.m. power use is low. Between 5
is called power-line voltage, usually and 6 a.m., the demand begins to in-
referred to as line voltage. crease rapidly and continues to increase
until it hits the day's peak around 2 full capacity; this is also the time when
//
p.m. The demand begins to taper off brownouts" occur.
then but remains fairly high until A brownout takes place when the
midevening. Through all of this fluctua- power company has every generator in
tion the companies monitor demand its system going full blast but still can-
and bring their generators on line as not generate enough power to meet the
needed. demand. The system can't keep 115
The greatest power use occurs in hot volts of electric pressure in the line, and
weather and is highest on the third day the voltage slips down to 110, 105, 100,
of a severe heat wave. This is the time or lower. As the power gets lower, your
when power-generating facilities are lights get dimmer, the picture on your
taxed to their utmost, with every piece television set shrinks, and motor-
of generating equipment working at driven appliances don't operate well.
Underwriters' Laboratory
approval mark.
into a long explanation but just say that companies, however, develops a
a generator looks like an electrical different kind of current called alter-
motor with a spinning center that nating current, or AC. It does this
revolves inside a stationary outside because, as the rotor in the generator
piece. Both the center and outside piece turns, it is alternately positive through
are wrapped in thousands of feet of fine one half of its rotation and negative
copper wire. As the center, or rotor, through the other half. Thus, it pro-
turns, electric power is generated. duces alternating pulses of positive and
All electricity has polarity. You've negative current to send out through
seen evidence of this on your the power line.
automobile battery where one post is The cycle number on an appliance in-
marked positive ( + ) and the other formation plate refers to the number of
negative ( — ). Electric current flows these alternating pulses sent out by the
from the negative to the positive posts generator each second. American and
in a battery system, passing through the Canadian power companies have stan-
appliance or device on the way. (If you dardized on 60 cycles per second. In
connected the posts directly, without Europe, however, the standard is 50 cy-
running the current through an ap- cles. Many American-built appliances
pliance, you would create a short cir- can't be operated on European current,
cuit.The flow of current in a battery is although some are built to operate on
always the same, from negative to posi- either 50 or 60 cycles.
tive, and is called direct current. All Obviously, as long as you are in the
batteries supply direct current. United States or Canada using ap-
An electric generator of the type pliances made in either country, you
mentioned above and used by power don't need to worry about cycles. If you
The Power
du
to Your House
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13
appears that you have two-wire
If it main fuses located near the top of the
service, look a second time. In some in- box. Thechief purpose of these fuses is
stallations, you can see three separate to protect your home in the event of a
wires. In others, two of the wires are large surge of power in the line, such as
twisted around each other, while the might occur if lightning strikes the
third wire is separate. In two-wire in- power line or transformer.
stallations, you will see two separate You will also see that a heavy wire
single wires. leads away from the fuses and into a
The power company is responsible conduit. If you follow this conduit,
for the service line as far as the meter. you'll find that it leads to a cold-water
Once the line leaves the meter, it pipe. This is the wire by which your
becomes the responsibility of the home- electrical system is grounded. To
owner. ground the system, a solid connection
If there are only two single wires to earth must be made, and the cold-
from the utility pole to your home, you water pipe is the best and most conve-
are receiving only 115-volt power. This nient method of making this contact.
means that you probably don't have as These main fuses usually are marked
much electricity as you need in this day MAIN and RANGE. The fuse marked
of electrical appliances and heavy MAIN protects all the 115-volt circuits,
power use. You should consider having and when it is blown (which is very
your home rewired, both for safety and seldom), there is no power in any 115-
convenience. When you do, the power volt circuit in the house. The fuse
company will provide three-wire ser- marked RANGEprotects the 230-volt
vice, and your electrician will install a circuits. When both fuses are removed,
new main service box and new circuits no electricity can enter the wires in
throughout the house to take advantage your home.
of the additional power. In some installations these main fuses
your house has three entrance
If may be located in a small service box
wires, you now have 115-230 volt alongside the service center. It is a good
power. This means that you have idea to become familiar with your
enough power to operate an adequate system and to know how to turn off the
number of circuits and to use a large power in the event of an emergency.
number of appliances. It also means The time to do this is now, when no
that you can have a 230-volt circuit for emergency exists.
an electric stove or large air condi-
tioner.
When resetting a fuse or circuit
In a three-wire circuit, there is one
breaker, turn off all appliances first,
white wire, called the neutral wire, and
reset, then turn appliances on one at a
two black (or another color other than
time. Otherwise, the sudden power
white or green) "hot" wires. Each black
demand will blow the fuse or trip the
wire is used with the white wire to pro-
circuit breaker again.
vide 115 volts, so you have two 115-volt
service lines. In addition, the two black
lines can be joined in your main service Below the main fuses in the service
box to provide the 230-volt range and box, you will see either two neat rows
heavy appliance circuit. of circuit breakers or a collection of
screw-in fuses. Each circuit breaker has
Main service center a small switch. When there is a problem
The service line enters your home in the circuit the breaker protects, this
and goes directly to the main service switch automatically flips open, discon-
center, or fuse box. If you look into this necting the circuit. After you solve the
box, you will see that the incoming ser- problem, reset the circuit breaker by
vice wires are connected first to two pushing the switch closed once more.
Meter box
Watertight connectors
Clamps to wall
Lead-in cables
Shield entry to house wall
-Grounded wire
Right:
Power enters the home at
the main service box. This
box has 8 fuses, showing
that there are 8 separate
home. The
circuits in the
two black squares with the
wire handles at the top of
the box are the main fuses
for the entire system.
Far right:
The inside of a fuse box
looks like this when the
protective plate is
removed. The black wire,
attached to the screw
beneath each fuse, is the
"hot" wire for the circuit
protected by that fuse. The
very thick white wire near
the bottom of the box is the
system's grounding wire,
which is fastened to a cold-
water pipe not far from the
fuse box.
Right:
To shut off the power
completely, pull the main
fuses. Rubber gloves are an
excellent safety precaution
when working in the main
service box; they protect
you if you should
accidentally brush against
an exposed wire.
Far right:
Pull out the main fuses, and
turn them around; you find
that each has two cartridge
fuses inside. The chief
function of these fuses is to
protect your home against
surges in the power line,
such as would occur if
lightning were to strike the
x>wer line or a trans-
ormer. They also provide
i quick and handy method
}f shutting off all power.
Far left:
Left:
Never touch the main
service box or anything in
it when the basement floor
is wet or even damp. To
make sure you aren't
grounded through a damp
floor, stand on a couple of
dry boards. When working
on electricity anywhere in
the basement or outside the
house, it is a good idea to
wear rubber-sole shoes.
Tools
Drill press 800 6.95
Drill, portable (small) 200 1.7
(heavy-duty) 400 3.4
Saw, circular 1150 10.0
Saw, radial 1500 13.0
Saw, saber 400 3.4
Soldering iron 100 .85
Heavy-duty, needing
230-volt circuits
Air conditioning, central 5000 43.5
Range 8000 69.5
16,000 139
Washer/Electric Dryer 5200 45.2
Water Heater (small) 2500 21.7
(large) 4000 34.7
*The chart shows the average number of watts consumed by a given appliance. This is a help in
making a general estimate of the loads you are putting on your circuits. However, the consumption
varies from model to model, so eventually you should compute the actual consumption of the ap-
pliances in your home. Remember the formulae (using 11 5- volt circuit): watts divided by volts
equals amps; amps times volts equal watts.
Right:
Heavy duty equipment,
such as this whole-house
air-conditioner, usually is
Far right:
Inside the fuse box of a
large air-conditioning unit
you find a fuse similar to
the main fuse in your main
service box. There are two
cartridge fuses in the back
of this box.
5 = Switch
T5& = Ceiling fixture
^. = Wall outlet
have moved into it recently or have bolsyou can recognize: a circle for ceil-
never attempted to identify the in- ing fixtures; an S inside a square for
dividual circuits. You can use the map switches; two circles inside a small rec-
to determine possible circuit overload- tangle for wall outlets. (There are recog-
ing and to aid in planning new circuits. nized electrical symbols for these
Begin by making a floor plan sketch things, but the map is for your own use,
of each floor of the house; include the so use symbols that have meaning for
basement and garage. Now indicate the you.)
location of every ceiling fixture, wall Next make a sketch of your main ser-
outlet, and wall switch by using sym- vice box showing the fuses or circuit
money each year and help to conserve hour, which is a low average rate, it
the nation's vital energy resources by would cost you $26.28 for the year's use
cutting down on our use of electric of this light bulb. However, if the next
power. We can make this savings with- year you replaced it with a 60-watt
out having to give up any of the comfort bulb, you'd use only 525 kilowatt hours,
and convenience supplied by our and your bill at the end of the year
electric appliances. All we
need to do is would be only $15.55, a savings of
carefully monitor our use of electric $10.51.
power, and cut out the waste. Electric Use as much light as you need, but
power is handy and wonderfully easy don't overlight. Don't use a 100-watt
to use; unfortunately, it is also easy to bulb where a 60 will do. Don't light a
waste. small hallway with a 60-watt bulb, if a
In the United States, we now use 40-watt bulb permits you to safely see
about 1.7 million megawatts of electric where you are going.
power a year. (A megawatt is a million A big waste of electricity is leaving
watts.) About 80 percent of this power is lights on in an empty room, unless it is
produced by generators driven by oil, necessary for security reasons. A single
gas, and coal, and about 5 percent pres- hour of such waste doesn't cost much,
ently comes from nuclear-powered but, as shown, over a year these single
generators. The remaining 15 percent hours build up to an appreciable total.
comes from hydroelectric generators
that are driven by water pent up behind Save on big power consumers
river dams. Check your use of those appliances
You won't be able to see the oil or gas that consume a lot of electric power,
saved when you cut down on the use of such as air-conditioning equipment and
electric power, but you can see a real appliances that produce heat. Can you
result in your electricbill; it will get use them a little less than you now do?
smaller. A medium-size window air-condi-
tioner, for example, costs about 3 /2* an
!
27
Right:
When plugged in all
left
Far right:
Air-conditioners, even the
smaller window units, are
big power users. During the
warm months, if you cut
your use by only an hour a
day, you can save a
considerable amount of
energy and money. Latest
models have been designed
to use less power than
older units; some deliver
the same cooling for as
much as one-third less
electricity.
_. .
. .. Annual Annual
Electric Appliance
Emrgy Use Cost
*These figures from the Reader's Digest 1975 Almanac show the average annual energy use and an-
nual cost of home appliances in a typical American home. The cost is based on a charge by utilities of
3tf per kilowatt hour. In most communities the cost will be several cents higher, as the cost of energy
rises annually.
third dials. the more power you use, the lower the
The fourth dial (or fifth, if your meter price per kilowatt hour.
has five dials) is read a little differ- You can find the average cost of a
ently. On this one you write down the kilowatt hour without calling the
number the pointer is approaching; if power company simply by using the
the pointer is between 3 and 4, you figures on your electric bill. Divide the
record 4. number of kilowatt hours shown on the
Suppose you decide to check your bill into the dollar amount shown. If
power use closely for a few weeks, and you used 495 kilowatt hours, and your
decide to take a meter reading each bill is for $19.54, you are paying an
Saturday morning. On the first Satur- average of 3.9* per kilowatt hour.
31
Avoid electrical accidents
around your house by
replacing all wiring that
shows signs of deterio-
ration. The cord on this
iron should have been
replaced a long time ago.
Check old extension cords,
too, especially if they are
stored for long periods
between use. The
insulation may have
become brittle, causing it to
develop tiny cracks when
you use it.
If you don't have wall receptacles tacles in those wall outlets where you
that will take three-pronged plugs, you use grounded appliances than to use
can use a converter plug. There is a converter plugs. You will learn how to
short wire on the side of this plug that do this simple job in Chapter Seven,
must be attached to the wall outlet by "Working on Household Circuits."
means of the screw that holds the out-
let's faceplate in position. The wire System grounding
must be installed under this screw. If The National Electrical Code requires
the wire isn't screwed in place, the ap- a third wire in all home electrical cir-
pliance isn't grounded, and it can give cuits for the grounding of electrical
you a serious shock if a short develops. equipment. The third wire is connected
It is better to install grounded recep- to the metal box in which each switch
32 Electrical Safety
Connecting the ground
wire to the screw in the
center of a wall-outlet plate
takes only a moment with
a small screwdriver. Any
grounded appliance will
operate without being
grounded through this
screw, but you lose
valuable protection against
shock unless the
connection is made.
Electrical Safety 33
grounding electrode. Or you can buy an are in contact with the ladder, you
inexpensive three-prong tester and are grounded. What can be a minor
check your own system. shock under other conditions can be
fatal in this case.
Safety rules If standing on the metal ladder to
To assure safety when you are work- use electric tools, a drill or a hedge
ing with electrical circuits or ap- trimmer, for example, make sure
pliances, follow these suggestions: the feet of the ladder are insulated
• Never work with a live electric from contact with the earth and
wire. Always cut off the current be- avoid flesh-to-metal contact with
fore starting work; take out the cir- the ladder.
cuit fuse, turn off the circuit breaker • When a fuse has blown, correct the
on the circuit on which you are condition that caused it to blow be-
working, or pull the main fuse. fore replacing the fuse. If the cause
• Never work on anything electrical was too many appliances on the cir-
near water. Don't stand on a damp cuit, disconnect some. If you suspect
or wet floor. Use a couple of 2 x 4s as a short in an appliance, unplug that
a dry platform. Don't have wet appliance. Unplug the main fuse be-
hands or feet. fore taking out the blown fuse, and
• Before beginning any electrical be sure you are standing on an ab-
work, remove all rings, wrist- solutely dry floor. Tobesafe, put a
watches, bracelets, and other metal dry board under your feet; then
items that might accidentally con- replace the blown fuse.
tact a live wire.
• Though they seem clumsy, heavy Ground fault interrupter
rubber gloves offer good protection You have many appliances that do
when you work around the main not have the three-pronged grounding
service box. plug' such as the toaster, mixer, iron,
• If your basement floods, be careful, coffee maker, and can opener. These
Don't step into the water because it appliances can develop current leaks
may be in contact with live electric- and internal short circuits just as do
ity through one of the appliances, heavy duty units, particularly after
and contact with the water could long service. The short can be caused by
electrocute you. Later, when the a loose wire, or wires with cracked and
water has subsided, but the floor is worn insulation.
still wet or damp, don't attempt to When happens, the bare wire
this
work on the appliances. And even contacts the appliance frame or case
after the floor is dry, flooded ap- and may create a dangerous situation,
pliances may still have water in However, if the unit is grounded
them, or the parts and wires inside through a three-pronged grounding
may be wet. (Have the appliance plug, the current will return through
repair service come and check your the ground and blow a fuse, warning
machines.) Water makes electricity you that something is wrong,
very dangerous. Since these appliances aren't
• Wear shoes with rubber rather than grounded, they can continue to operate
leather soles when making electri- in normal fashion. If you touch the unit,
cal repairs. however, you'll receive a shock. And if
• Be cautious when using a metal lad- you are grounded because you are
der, particularly when working touching a pipe or a gas stove, or if you
outside. Never let the ladder contact have wet hands, the shock can be fatal,
the incoming power line. And Recently a device called a ground
remember that when the ladder is fault interrupter has been developed to
in contact with the ground, and you protect you in this situation. There are
34 Electrical Safety
Far left:
Left:
Be extremely careful when
using a metal ladder in the
vicinity of your electrical
service entrance. Don't
permit the ladder to
contact the wires, and
don't climb the ladder near
the wires. Stay alert to the
danger when painting or
making repairs near these
wires.
Protect yourself by
insulating the feet of metal
ladders from contact with
the earth. This ladder has
no-slip feet, which also
serve as insulation.
However, your weight
may cause the ladder to dig
in and make contact in
spite of these feet. Don't
rely on them alone.
Electrical Safety 35
two types of ground fault interrupters. tor. Write for an abridged version of the
One is an adapter, which plugs into a NEC called "One- and Two-Family
wall outlet, and into which you can Residential Occupancy Electrical Code"
plug any ungrounded appliance. The by sending $2.00 to the National Fire
other is a fixed unit combined with a Protective Association, 470 Atlantic
circuit breaker, which is installed per- Avenue, Boston, Massachusetts, 02210.
manently in main service boxes one — You must, in most communities, ob-
for each circuit. tain a permit to do major electrical
Using a GFI, you will receive a very work. When the work has been com-
slight shock in the event of a short cir- pleted, it must be inspected by the
cuit in the appliance you are using. But building inspector or a designated
a solid state circuit in the GFI very master electrician, who certifies that
quickly senses the problem and shuts the work was done in accordance with
off the line current. The action is so the code.
quick that you feel only a momentary No permit required for simple jobs
is
and very slight sting, which is good, like replacing switches and wall outlets.
because it warns you not to use the ap- Keep in mind that the code doesn't pre-
pliance again until it has been repaired. vent you from doing the work yourself
The GFI was originally developed for on larger projects; it simply requires
use in electrical circuits around swim- that you do the work in a specified
ming pools, where current leaks from manner and that the work be inspected
the pump or water purification system and passed by a master electrician.
create an electrical hazard. It has special Homeowners who do their own elec-
application in all wet areas, such as trical work sometimes ignore the re-
laundry rooms, but is equally useful quirements of the local code, including
with any ungrounded appliance, such the need for a permit and inspection.
as a hairdryer. However, if they ever have a fire of
electrical origin, the fire insurance com-
National Electrical Code pany may cancel coverage because of
The National Electrical Code is com- this uninspected electrical work.
piled in a 536-page book of recommen-
dations for safe methods of installation Underwriters' Laboratories
and specifications for the construction The Underwriters' Laboratories was
of electrical equipment. Published by established for the purpose of testing
the National Fire Protective Associa- electrical products submitted to it by
tion, it was first issued in 1897 and is manufacturers. If a product passes the
revised regularly to include the latest UL tests, it may then carry the UL label,
safety developments. which tells you that certain materials
The NEC is only a set of recommen- and design standards have been met.
dations and not a law. However, most UL approval is not a guarantee of top
communities use it as a basis for local quality.You may find several switches
electrical codes that are the law. Any at your hardware store at different
electrical work performed in a com- price and quality levels, all with the UL
munity must conform to the specifica- label. All of these switches are safe to
tions of the code. Even though most use, will work as you expect, and con-
codes are based on the NEC, they vary form to the specifications on the label.
considerably from community to com- The more expensive ones may last
munity. longer, be easier to install, or have addi-
Before starting any major electrical tional features. But the least expensive
work on your home's system, read a is safe to buy, if you choose to do so.
copy of your local electrical code. Most For reasons of safety, it is a good idea
communities have printed copies avail- to buy only those electrical components
able in the office of the building inspec- that carry the UL label.
36 Electrical Safety
The conduit coming from
the lower left of this main
service box carries the
system's ground wire. You
can see where it is clamped
to the cold-water pipe
between the floor joists
(upper left-hand corner).
Every system is grounded
either by means of a
connection similar to this
or through a connection to
a long metal rod driven
into the ground.
Electrical Safety 37
Electrical Repairs
Should you attempt to make electrical • Lights seem dimmer than they
repairs yourself, or should you have should but get brighter when ap-
them done by professional? The
a pliances are turned off. You need
answer depends on you. to add power to the system. If you
To begin with, working with your have 100-amp service, you probably
electrical system (rewiring, adding new need 150 or 200 amps.
amperage or new circuits) is a precise • Air-conditioner isn't cooling as it
business. Each layout, each connection should. A separate circuit for the
must be handled in the precise way laid unit may provide the power it
down by your electrical code. Ex- needs. If not, increase service power
perience has shown that these methods by going to 150 or 200 amps.
produce the safest systems. • Lights flicker frequently
There is no reason why you can't (especially as appliances are turned
learn these precise methods and do the on). An increase in amperage is
complete job yourself. But when install- needed.
ing a main service box or rewiring a • You are using many extension
house, there is no room for guesswork cords. Increase number of wall out-
or for improvised methods. Even if you lets.
get the system to work with these • You use cube taps (those plug-in
methods, you may have built a poten- sockets that permit you to use
tial fire into it. several appliances from one wall
So the answer for major overhauling outlet).Increase the number of wall
of your electrical system is to do it your- outlets, and check to see if a new
self, if you can do it right. Otherwise, circuit is needed in the area where
call an electrician. The smaller jobs also these appliances are used.
have to be done precisely; but these are • Sometimes a switch doesn't work
uncomplicated procedures which you when you flip it. Replace it; the
can learn quickly. switch is worn out.
This chapter and the succeeding ones • Appliance plug and cord are very
will help you to identify your electrical hot. These are indicators of an over-
problems, show which ones you can loaded circuit. Add a new circuit or
solve, and demonstrate how to do so change appliance to a different ex-
safely and correctly. isting circuit.
• Automatic features of appliances
Faulty wiring system seem sticky. (The toast doesn't al-
How do you know when your house ways pop, and the washer some-
wiring system needs help? The system times skips a cycle). The probable
itself will tell you; here are some signs cause is low amperage, and you are
to watch for: using more appliances than your
• Fuses blow frequently. The circuit present power supply can handle.
is overloaded. The cure is to add Call the power company to discuss
another circuit, and divide ap- increasing your home's amperage.
pliances between circuits. • You get a slight shock when you
38
Far left:
works, it should be
replaced. The working
parts are worn and are not
making proper contact.
Left:
Feel the plug and power
cord of any appliance. If it
feels unusually hot, it may
be an indication of an
overloaded circuit. Check
the other appliances
plugged into the circuit at
the same time, and add the
total wattage of these
appliances. A 15-amp
overloaded when
circuit is
the wattage exceeds 1725, a
20-amp circuit, when the
wattage exceeds 2300.
Electrical Repairs 39
The handiest tools to
when doing repair work
on your electrical circuitry
are a power drill and
jigsaw. You could use an
have
^^K
auger-and-bit and keyhole
saw instead, but power
tools make the job go much
faster. You also need fish
tape and a plug-in tester.
The fish tape is a thin,
flexible wire used to pull
wire through conduit and
through long runs in walls,
and you can rent one of the
containers. The plug-in
tester will tell you whether
or not your grounded
circuits are actually
grounded.
keyhole saw in place of the saber saw. sive tool and a good one to own even if
You can use a wire clipper and you do no more than occasionally
several pliers including standard, small rewire a lamp.
standard, and needlenose. Add a
hacksaw for cutting armored cable, a Materials
builder's hammer, and a set of insulated You won't need much in the way of
screwdrivers. You'll need very small installation materials: a roll of plastic
screwdrivers for appliance repairs, and electrical tape and a handful of solder-
two or three larger ones for typical cir- less connectors in various sizes, plus the
cuit repairs. wire, switches, outlets, and fixtures you
A conduit cutter and a conduit add to the system.
40 Electrical Repairs
Thin-wall conduit is a
lightweight tube through
which electrical wires are
carried. When installing
thin-wall conduit, you will
needa bender and a cutter,
which you can rent.
Modern electrical materials are easy white, neutral wire and a black, hot
to use. All the parts are standardized wire lead from connections in the box,
and designed to work together. You usually located inside the conduit,
worry about whether one
don't have to through the walls of your house to the
manufacturer's wall outlet box takes area they serve. There they are con-
another maker's wall outlet. All fittings nected to four or five wall outlets and
are made in standard sizes. perhaps two or three ceiling fixtures
The materials needed are conduit or and wall switches.
armored cable, mounting boxes, con- The conduit arrives at the point
nectors for attaching conduit to boxes, where the first wall outlet is mounted.
and mounting hardware necessary for Here it is attached to a small rectangu-
ceiling fixtures. lar metal box, in which the wall outlet
Keep in mind that the main purpose itself is protected. The wires are con-
of wiring devices is to protect the wires nected to the outlet, and then continue,
that carry the current and to shield you through more conduit, to the next box.
from that current. The conduit and the boxes thus provide
Visualize a typical circuit in your a kind of protective tunnel inside of
system. It begins in the main entry box which the current-carrying wires run.
Electrical Repairs 41
Circuit 1 (15 amperes):
Circuit 2 (15 amperes): Master bedroom: Hall outlets and lights
42 Electrical Repairs
In some areas, instead of conduit, the you use a No. 14 copper wire to carry 15
wires may
be carried inside armored amps. You must use a No. 12 aluminum
cable, also called BX cable, or inside wire to get the same capacity. (See the
heavily insulated nonmetallic cable. accompanying chart, "Current
Capacity of Wire.") Copper also tends
Electric wire to be a little less brittle —
it bends more
Electrical Repairs 43
Voltage drop chart applies to runs up to 50 feet. For
Remember that wire resists the flow each additional 50-foot run, select a
of current through it. The loss of voltage wire one gauge thicker. Thus, if the run
because of the resistance in a long run of is to be 80 feet, use a No. 10 wire instead
wire due to resistance is called voltage of a No. 12. This will compensate for the
drop. voltage drop.
The formula for computing voltage A situation in which voltage drop can
drop is the rated resistance of the wire be critical is in the use of very long ex-
multiplied by the amps it is to carry. If tension cords, especially in the yard
the wire has a resistance of 1 ohm and is when you are using a mower, drill,
to carry 10 amps, then the voltage drop saw, or chain saw. You might use a 100-
is 10, computed by multiplying 1 x 10. If foot extension, plugging it into an outlet
you have 115- volt service, subtract the that is already 50 feet from the main
voltage drop (115 -
10 =105 volts) to service box. If the wire in the extension
find out what voltage reaches the ap- cord is too small, you may not get
pliance at the end of this wire. This is enough power to operate the unit or to
fairly low voltage and the voltage drop get the best service from it. When buy-
may affect the way the appliance ing a long extension cord, get one that
works. However, you don't have to can carry the planned load. Check the
memorize this formula or use it for ampere rating of the appliance you ex-
selecting wire for your job. The wire pect to use, then refer to the accom-
specified in the "Current Capacity" panying "Extension Cord" chart.
Extension Cords
44 Electrical Repairs
'
Electrical Repairs 45
Right:
The wire stripper is a tool
of many uses. Its primary
function is to strip the
insulation from the ends of
electrical wire. Notches of
different sizes, to fit
Far right:
When repairing
appliances, you often need
to attach a terminal lug to
the end of a wire. If you are
Right.
Gently hold the lug in the
crimping slots in the head
of the wire stripper, and
insert the stripped wire
into the lug. Various sizes
and styles of lugs are
available at electrical
supply stores.
Far right:
Squeeze the handle of the
wire stripper. This will
crimp the body of the lug
tightly around the exposed
tip of the wire.
46 Electrical Repairs
Left and center:
Wire can be joined end to
end by using a butt splice.
The ends of the wires to be
joined are stripped to the
correct depth, then each
wire is crimped in one end
of the lug. A metal sleeve
inside the lug insures good
electrical contact.
Electrical Repairs 47
to connecting runs of conduit. Most of
Be safe. Do
not attempt electrical these tasks, taken individually, are easy
repairs until you turn off the power at
once you know the right way to do
the service entry, which will be lo-
them.
cated in either a fuse box or circuit
Take the problem of joining two
breaker. Double-check; there may be
pieces of wire: when joined, they must
more than one service entry to your make a good electrical contact; a poor
home. For lamps and appliances, contact will cause trouble. If the wires
unplug the power supply cords. Also, are to carry any weight, the joint must
make sure any wiring you do com- be able to support it without separating;
your
plies with the electrical codes in
the joint shouldn't separate or be jarred
area. The store where you purchase
loose when the wire is moved, and
electrical supplies can help you with
there should be no wire ends that might
code requirements.
penetrate the insulation, which is put
over the joint. If you follow the
There is a neat, clean, and correct prescribed method of joining two pieces
way to do almost any task in electrical of wire, all of these problems are
work, from joining two wires together automatically taken into account.
Joining wires
Joining two wires is called
splicing, and the splice
must be well made and
solid, or later it can cause
problems. A loose splice
can come apart when the
wire is flexed or pulled;
and when the wire in a
splice makes only loose
contact, electricity passing
through the splice
generates heat. Begin the
splice by stripping the ends
of the wire. Allow at least
an inch and a half of bare
wire to give yourself room
to work. (Check your local
code, because some codes
do not permit splices in
wires.)
48
Twist the wires around
each other a few turns. The
heavier the gauge of the
wire, the more difficult it is
Electrical Methods 49
Taping wire joints
The object of taping a
spliced wire joint is to
insulate the splice. Begin by
applying the tape to one
end of the splice, covering
a half inch or so of the wire
insulation. Apply the tape
angle so that as
at a slight
you wrap the tape will
overlap itself.
50 Electrical Methods
Using solderless connectors
A solderless connector is a
plastic cap with a metal
spring inside. When the
bare ends of two or more
wires are inserted into it
and twisted, the spring
firmly grips the wire and
makes a good electrical
contact.To use the
connector, begin by
stripping the wire ends;
don't expose too much
wire, or the plastic won't
cover it.
Electrical Methods 51
Connecting wire to a fixture
The correct way to begin to
connect a wire to a fixture
terminal screw is to bend a
hook in the wire using
needlenose pliers. Make
the hook by grasping the
wire with the pliers and
turning the pliers to bend
the wire around the
needlenose.
52 Electrical Methods
Far left:
Always use an
Underwriters' Laboratories
knot to prevent
electrical
putting pressure on the
electrical contacts when a
power cord is pulled. To
make the knot, pull a foot
or so of wire through the
plug; split about 3 inches of
wire, as shown. Begin the
knot by looping the wire in
the left hand behind the
wire in the right hand.
Left:
Bend the right-hand wire
down behind the left-hand
one.
Far left:
Left:
Pull both wires to draw the
knot Be sure there is
tight.
enough wire beyond the
knot so you can make your
connections inside the
plug. It is better to have too
much wire than too little,
since you can always cut
off the excess.
Electrical Methods 53
Right:
Before pulling the knot
down into the plug, twist
the stranded wire into a
solid wire to eliminate
frazzled ends.
Far right:
Pull the power cord, and
draw the knot down into
the plug. The completed
knot should be small
enough so that it fits into
the plug between the
prongs. You may find it
necessary to pull the knot
tighter to achieve this.
accidentally cutting
through the insulation of
the wire inside the shield.)
Finally, pull on the short
end of the metal shield.
Usually any section 12
inches long or less will pull
right off, leaving the wires
unshielded and ready for
work.
54 Electrical Methods
Connecting armored cable
These two paper-wrapped
wires are the electrical
wires of the cable; the
silver unshielded wire is
the ground wire. At right,
is a small bushing (a lining
Electrical Methods 55
Right:
Armored cable is attached
to a junction box by means
of a connector, shown
here.To attach a
connector, bend the
ground wire back, and slip
the connector over the
wires, the bushing, and
first half inch of the metal
shield of the cable. The
connector is then fastened
to the cable by tightening
the screw.
Far right:
Wrap the ground wire
around the screw, and
tighten the screw to make a
solid contact. Do not
neglect to make this
ground connection or you
will destroy the continuous
ground of your circuit.
After tightening the screw,
any excess ground
clip off
wire.
To make an opening in a
junction box, select the
point where you want the
armored cable to enter the
box. Then, using a
screwdriver and either the
hand or a
butt of your
hammer, knock loose the
tab in the hole.
56 Electrical Methods
Far left:
Left:
Insert the connector into
the opening in the box.
Normally, the junction box
is mounted in the wall.
Far left:
Left:
Finally, insert a
screwdriver into one of the
notches in the edge of the
ring nut, and tap it to
tighten.
Electrical Methods 57
Right: Connecting nonmetallic cable
Nonmetallic cable is a
heavy plastic-protected
which are
cable inside of
electric wires. Cable can be
bought with different
combinations of wire, but
for normal circuit wiring
buy cable with three
wires — a hot wire, a
neutral wire, and a ground
wire. The first task in
connecting nonmetallic
cable is to strip away the
heavy outside insulation. A
single-edge razor blade is
Far right:
Slip a connector into place,
once the three wires are
stripped of their outside
protective jacket. This
connector is similar to that
used to connect armored
cable to a junction box; be
sure you buy the right type
of connector.
Re-
insert the connector into
the box, and thread on a
ring nut with your finger;
tighten it with a
screwdriver.
58 Electrical Methods
Working with conduit
Far left:
A thin-wall conduit is a
thin tube used for carrying
electrical wires throughout
a home. It is easily cut and
easily bent, yet strong
enough to give good wire
protection. Conduit is not
Left:
The fitting that joins
conduit to a junction box
has one end threaded to fit
into the junction box
where it is held in place by
These two views
a ring nut.
show the connector
properly assembled (at top)
and the nut and expansion
ring, by which the conduit
is gripped, pulled apart.
Far left:
To join conduit to a
junction box, insert the
conduit in the connector;
tighten the connector on
the conduit.
Left:
Once the connector is
Electrical Methods 59
Thin-wall conduit is easily
cut with this special cutter,
which is clamped around
the conduit. You can rent a
cutter instead of buying
one if you don't do much
electrical work.
made automatically.
60 Electrical Methods
Using a fish tape
Electrical Methods 61
This method demonstrates
how wire should be run
between floors.
62 Electrical Methods
Working on
Household Grcuits
Replacing a switch
When a switch gets sticky
or must be flipped several
times before the lights go
on, it should be replaced.
TURN OFF THE
ELECTRIC CURRENT;
NEVER WORK ON
ANYTHING ALIVE WITH
ELECTRICITY. The
following procedure
applies to replacing a
regular switch either with
a mercury (silent type)
switch or with a dimmer
switch. In each case, check
the instructions on the
switch package to be
certain the wiring is the
same before you begin.
Then, remove the wall
plate by removing the two
screws that hold it in place.
63
Right:
Remove the two screws
that hold the switch to the
box.
Far right:
Pull the switch from the
box. heavy-gauge wire
If
Right:
Put in the new switch by
attaching the two electrical
wires. The white wire
should be attached to the
light-colored screw.
Far right:
Press the switch into the
box. You may have to bend
the wires a bit first. Work
with it until the switch sits
neatly in the box. You will
note that the screws
holding the switch to the
box go through slots, rather
than holes, in the arms of
the switch. This is done so
that you can adjust the
position of the switch
slightly before finally
tightening the screws.
Left:
Remove the old receptacle
by removing the two
screws holding it to the
box.
Far left:
Left:
The old receptacle is
removed by taking out the
screws to which the
electricalwires are
connected. The new
receptacle is then put into
place, the electrical wires
are slipped around the
terminal screws, and the
screws are tightened. The
white wire is connected to
the light-colored screw.
Far right:
The wall plate is screwed
into place, and the
installation is complete.
Far right:
Pull the old receptacle from
the box, and remove the
screws holding the
electrical wires.
Far left:
Left:
Put the receptacle back into
the wall box, bending the
wires as necessary to make
it fit, and replace the wall
plate. If there is a
continuous ground in the
circuit to which you have
just wired the receptacle,
you do not have to use
™ converter plugs. Use a
tester to check to be sure
* that the circuit is grounded.
Cut baseboard
Attach wires to old duplex outlet
Far right:
Before connecting the
wires in the ceiling fixture
study the existing wires
carefully and refer to the
wiring diagram,
"Installing a new outlet
from a switch." Identify
each wire, and understand
how it should be
connected. In this photo,
the three wires to be
connected by means of a
solderless connector have
been pulled out and
stripped.
Right
The connection is made
using solderless
connectors. Note that the
three wires and the wire
from the fixture itself are
joined in the large
solderless connector. You
can now push all the
wiring back up into the
ceiling box, and put the
fixture back in place.
Far right:
Next, at the point on the
wall where you want the
new outlet,measure
carefully, and mark its
location.
A cardboard template
should come with each
wall box you buy. Position
this template on the wall,
and draw an outline
around it.
Left:
Using an electric drill, drill
on the inside of the lines
you have drawn. Make
most of the cutout with the
drill, or simply make an
entry hole at each corner,
and complete the cutout
with a keyhole or power
saber saw.
Far left:
Left:
To run wire from the box
down to the new outlet,
tap out the tab in the
bottom of the box with a
screwdriver and your
hand.
% Jm
Working on Household Circuits 71
Left and right:
Drop a piece of string
down through the opening
in the bottom of the wall
switch box until you can
see it through the new
opening you have just cut
for the wall outlet. Pull the
string out through the wall
outlet opening.
Left:
You may have to jiggle the
string a bit, but you can
now pull the armored cable
connector into the wall
switch box, as shown. Slip
a ring nut over the wires
into the box. Tighten this
nut over the connector.
Far left:
Left:
Reinstall the switch in the
wall box. Carefully study
the diagram of the three-
way switch, which
follows, to make the
proper electrical
connections.
Box stud
Strap is supported by _
center nut to box stud
Fixture strap
Canopy screws
To support
pipes of
Canopy lock nut diameter
needed
\ V
install because you don't
have to run any wires
through the ceiling. The
lamp's wiring is woven
:v through the chain, where it
*4; is nearly invisible, and the
Left:
The hook from which the
lamp is suspended is
I t mounted in the ceiling,
preferably screwed into a
ceiling joist, which
provides solid support. You
can locate a joist by tapping
on the ceiling; the thumps
you make sound hollow
between the joists and solid
when you tap right over a
joist. Once you think you
Far left:
Left:
Enclosed or screened
porches should have
exterior-type fixtures, since
these areas are only
partially protected from
the elements. This wall
outlet is the exterior type,
with watertight caps that
cover the outlet openings
when they aren't in use.
In repairing a small appliance, you • If you are satisfied that there is cur-
might think of two electrical sections. rent coming to the wall outlet, turn
The first is from the plug on the power your attention to the plug and
cord through the appliance's power power cord of the appliance. Is the
cord to the switch inside the appliance plug in good shape? Are the prongs
housing. Repairs on this part of the ap- bent? Are the wires connected in-
pliance are easy to make and account side it? If the plug is of the molded
for a fair percentage of appliance mal- type, so that you can't see the inter-
functioning. nal connections, it is sometimes
The second section is beyond the worthwhile to begin by replacing it.
switch, inside the appliance housing. Is the cord cracked or worn?
The current passes through the switch Believe it or not, these simple steps
and goes to the motor or heating ele- can save you some repair money. Every
ment, perhaps through some kind of service man has stories about traveling
governing device. Several different five miles only to replace a fuse or
kinds of motors are used in small ap- straighten bent prongs on a plug. These
pliances, as are several methods of stories match the ones told by auto
80
mechanics who have been called even if that isn't the source of the pres-
because a car won't start, only to find ent problem. Are the power cord wires
that the car is out of gas. In both cases, in solid contact with the switch, at-
you still pay for the service call. tached with either tight screws or
By taking these steps, you assure solder? A faulty connection here is one
yourself that there is power in the cir- common source of trouble,
cuit; that the wall outlet is in good Now look at the switch itself. Oper-
shape and passes the current along to ate itfew times, and watch closely to
a
the appliance plug; that the appliance see how it works. Does it seem to oper-
plug is making contact in the wall and ate properly? Is it clean, or do the con-
is passing the current into the power tact points appear burned or dis-
cord; and that the cord is unbroken and colored?Has dirt, oil, or dust worked its
is carrying the current to the appliance way in and coated the points?
switch. Take the time to clean the points, and
be sure a good electrical contact is being
Opening the appliance made. If the switch is very dirty, the
DON'T EVER BEGIN TO TAKE AN cleaning may solve the problem.
APPLIANCE APART UNTIL YOU If the contact points are burned or
HAVE UNPLUGGED IT. pitted, clean them by using a piece of
The next step is to remove the hous- matchbook cover, running it back and
ing of the appliance in order to examine forth between the points. In extreme
the switch. Sometimes this means just cases, a couple of passes (light ones)
removing a few clearly visible screws, with a very fine emery paper may help.
But other times, you must play detec- Sometimes you'll find that the arm of
tive and hunt for the ways in which the the switch has been bent or has lost its
case is held together. spring. You may be able to correct this
Clues. Look for screws that are hid- by bending back into position, or you
it
den under nameplates. Look for press- may have to order a new switch from
fitted rings that hold the two halves of a the maker.
housing together and which must be If the switch appears good, check all
pried off. If the appliance has rubber or other connections and wiring inside the
plastic feet, look up inside these; screws housing. Are there loose wires? Are all
may be hiding there or disguised some- connections tight? Is the wire sound
where in the handle. If there is a dial on and uncracked, or does the insulation
the switch, it must be pulled off before appear broken? You should replace any
the housing can be disassembled. bad wire, but be sure to replace it with a
When taking an appliance apart, be wire of the same gauge. A hardware
careful to remember which screws store or a radio/TV supply store sells
came for each hole. The assembly wire.
screws often are not interchangeable, When you have finished this inspec-
either in threads or in length. Also, tion, reassemble the appliance, being
watch for lock washers and gaskets, careful to put it back together just the
which must be put back where you way it came apart. Now turn it on. You
found them. may have fixed it. But if you haven't,
you can assume that the problem is in
Inside the case the motor or in the governing device,
No matter what kind of appliance which is a job for a specialist,
you are working on, the next step, after
removing the housing, is to follow the Appliance parts
power cord to the point where its wires Today most appliance manufacturers
are connected to the switch. If the are very conscious of the need to supply
power cord inside the housing is good after-the-sale service, which in-
frayed, cracked, or worn, replace it, eludes both repairing appliances and
or service instructions. Every number tity of the part you need, you have a
on the appliance may be important, so pretty good chance of getting it.
Rewiring a lamp
ALWAYS UNPLUG A
LAMP BEFORE
WORKING ON IT.
Normally, only two things
can go wrong with an
ordinary lamp: either the
switch wears out, or the
cord and plug need
replacing. Both are easy
repair jobs. The switch is
either in the light bulb
receptacle, as in the lamp
pictured, or it is a separate
unit in the base of the lamp.
The separate base switch is
,'
N
s Tie the
string,
new cord to the
and
through the iron.
pull it back
Far left:
Left:
To make the new power
cord connection, slip the
fiber-glass sleeves onto the
power cord wires, and
hold the wire in place with
needlenose pliers while
you insert and tighten each
screw. Reinstall the metal
washer on the power cord,
using pliers, and replace
the cover plate.
Far right:
Not all of the crumbs fall
into the tray. Some collect
on the working parts,
causing your toaster to
work improperly. Use a
soft brush, but don't brush
vigorously, or you may
damage parts.
Far right:
Inside the shell, you can see
where the power cord is
connected to the motor.
Replacing the power cord
is simply a matter of
Index D
DC (direct current), 9-12
Doorbell system, repair, 93-94
Electrical codes, 36
AC (alternating current), 9-12 Electrical repairs
Aluminum wire, 43 of home circuits, 63-79
Amperes methods, 48-62
defined, 9 of small appliances, 80-94
minimum service to home, 19-20 tools and materials, 40-41
Appliances Electricity
care and repair, 80-94 conservation of, 27-30
circuits for, 23 how it works, 5-6
cost by annual use (chart), 28 safety with, 18-19, 31-37
getting parts for, 81-82 understanding, 4
heating filaments in, 9 Electrons, in power production, 5,
power used by (chart), 20-21 Energy conservation, 4, 27-30
taking apart, 81 Extension cords (chart), 44
6
Batteries, 10-12 Filaments, heating, 9
Brownout, 7 Fire hazards, electrical, 22
Butt splice, 47 Fish tape, 61-62
Fixtures, ceiling, 75-77
Floor plan, of circuits, 24-26
Frying pan, repair, 92
Fuse box, 14-19
Cable Fuses
BX (or armored), 54-57
rating by amps, 20
plastic-protected, 58
types and resetting, 14
Can opener, repair, 87-88
Circuit breaker, advantage of, 17
Circuits
analyzing capacity of, 26 G
Generators, 27
appliance, 23 5, 7,
95
K Solderless connectors, 57
Splicing wires, 48-49
Kilowatt hours, 27
Swag lamp, installation, 77-78
L T
Lamp Tape, electrical, 50
rewiring, 82-84
Testing, for current flow or grounding,
swag lamp installation, 77-78
33-34, 40, 45
Lighting
Toaster, repair, 86
exterior, installation of, 78-79
Tools, electrical, 40-41
saving electricity on, 27
Transformers
Line voltage, 6-8
in doorbell system, 94
in power production, 5-7
M
Main service entrance, 14-19 U
cartridge fuses, 18 Underwriters' Laboratories knot, 53
Main and Range fuses, 14 Underwriters' Laboratories label, 36-37, 79
safety around, 18-19 United States, electric power use, 5, 27
Meter reading, 28-30
Mixer, electric, repair, 90-91
V
N
National Electrical Code, 23, 32, 36, 41
Volt, 5-6
Voltage drop, 44
W
O
Ohms, of resistance, 8
Wall outlets
adding, 68-73
converting to grounded receptacle, 66-67
Oven, portable, repair, 91-92 replacing, 65-66
Wall switches
adding outlet from, 69-73
P replacing, 63-64
three-way installation, 74
Power
Wattage
failure, 6
available to your home, 20
stations, 5
defined, 9
turn off, 14, 17-18
how to find, 9, 19
Wire
armored cable, 54-57
R butt splice, 47
copper versus aluminum, 43
Rubber gloves, for safety, 18-19
current capacity of,. 43
gauges (chart), 43
joining, 48-49
nonmetalic cable, 58
Safety, 4, 18-19,31-37 taping joints, 50
basement flood, 34 UL electrical knot, 53-54
grounding, 18-19, 32-33 voltage drop due to, 44
insulation of wires, 31 Wire stripper, 40, 46
metal ladders, 34-35 Wiring
Shock, electric, 31 devices, 41-43
Short circuits, 34-36 signs of faulty, 38-39
96 Index
^STfotD
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