Technology Fabric Formation Tamil Notes Unit 1 and 2

1060233310 - TECHNOLOGY FABRIC FORMATION
SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE

KOMARAPAYAM
1060233310 - TECHNOLOGY FABRIC

FORMATION
TAMIL BOOK
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

2024
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

UNIT 1
WEAVING PREPARATORY PROCESSES
Introduction - Sequence of process in weaving preparatory processes.
Warp Winding – Objectives-Passage of material through Automatic Winding
Machine. Study on Automatic tensioner - Electronic yarn clearer - Splicing - Types of
splicing. Terms and definitions in cone winding – Traverse, double traverse, Angle of
cone, Angle of wind, number of winds, open wind and closed wind. Package Faults -
Causes and Remedies.
Warping - Objectives-Beam and Sectional warping -Passage of material through a
Beam Warping Machine, Beam faults - causes and remedies, Need of sectional
warping.
Sizing: Objectives -Types of Sizing ingredients - Passage of material through a multi
cylinder sizing machine – factors affecting size pick-up. Sized beam defects - Causes
and remedies. Weft Winding - Objectives - Passage of material through Automatic
Pirn Winder, Necessity of bunch building Drawing in and Denting-objectives and
methods
INDRODUCTION
Weaving
. warp weft yarn interlacement
weaving . Cloth(or) Fabric
yarn warp yarn ( ) yarn
Weft ( ) yarm . warp Weft
yam loom ( )
.
SEQUENCE OF PROCESSES IN WEAVING PREPARATORY

WARP PREPRATORY
Spinning M/c yam loom
. loom warp yam beam Weft yam
compact package (pirm) .
spinning yarm package
loom . spinning .

weaving process .. weaving prepiratory

.
1. WARP WINDING
2. Warping
3. Sizing
4. Drawing in
5. Denting in
Grey yam .
coloured warp .
yarm .
preparatory sequence ;
GREY WARP PREPARATION

warp yam wet processing
weaving Grey cloth
. Grey Cloth
.
1. Winding by high speed, super speed or autematic cyne winding machine

2. Warping by high speed, or super speed warping machine
3. Sizing and beaming by slasher sizing machine.
4. Looming, ie, drawing in and denting / knotting or twisting (manually
automatically)
Package
Ring bobbin Cone back beam sized weaver beam
Drawn weavers beam.
MULTICOLOURED WARP PREPARATION

Stripped checked fabric
coloured warp preparation . yam
loom .

SYSTEM A
1. Reeling into hank form by reeling machine.
2. Dyeing by hank dyeings machine.
3. Sizing by hank sizing machine
4. Winding on to warpers bobbin by drum winding or high speed winding machine.
5. Warping by sectional warping machine.
6. Beaming by running off-machine.
7. Looming (manually or mechanically).
Ring bobbin Hank Dyed Hank sized Weavers beam

Sized hank Dyed & sized warpers bobbin Dyed and sized section
Dyed and sized weavers beam Drawn weavers beam.
SYSTEM B
1. Winding onto perforated type bobbin by high speed cheese winding machine
2. Dyeing in cheese form by cheese dying machine
3. Warping by beam warping machine.
4. Sizing and beaming by slather sizing machine.
5. Looming (manually or imechanically)Ting bobbin
Ring bobbin Cheese Dyed Cheese Dyed back beam

Dyed back beam Dyed and sized weavers beam Drawn
weavers beam
WEFT PREPARATION :
 Ring frame Spinning cop
weft yam ஐ pirn weft winding .
GREY WEFT
1. Winding onte cone or cheese by high speed super speed or automatic cone or
cheese winding niachine.
2. Winding from cone onto tube or wooden pun by high speed, super speed,
automatic and fully automatic pirn winding machine.

COLOURED WEFT PREPARATION

System - A
1. Realing into hank by reeling machine.
2. Dyeing in hank form by hank dyeing machine.
3. Winding from dyed hank on to pim by piru winding machine.
System - B
1. Winding onto perforated tube by high speed cheese winding machine.
2. Dying in cheese form by cheese dying machine.
3. Rewinding from dyed cheese onto pirn by pirn winding machine.
WARP PREPARATION
Warp yarn
.
1. WINDING
2. WARPING
3. SIZING
4. LOOMINGWINDING:
Winding
Winding spinning cop (or) Hank yam
package process . package
yamஐ . Yam, faults ( )
.
WARPING:
Warping yam
Sheet Beam
SIZING AND BEAMING:
process warp sheet starch
dry . process
weavinga stress strain ( )
, yam .
Drying warp sheet Beam .

LOOMING :
Size warp sheet loom healds ( )
reed ( ) weaving .
Healds Drawing-in , read
denting .
COBJECTIVES OF CONE WINDING
1. Ring cop Hank yamஐ unwind
Cone, cheese (or) spool compact packages .
2. Yam defects slubs, neps, thick, foreign matters, thin
places .
Terms and definitions in cone winding

ANGLE OF CONE
Cone , Angle of Cone
. (or) Cone Base
, Angle of Cone .
ANGLE OF WIND
Package (Cone, Cheese) wrapped yarm package
Angle of Cone
.

NUMBER OF WINDS (OR TURNS

Package Traverse Coil No. of
winds .
TRAVERSE
Coil package
. Package winding
traverse .
Open Wind :
 Coil , coil
winding open wind
.
 warping winding .
 Regular wind .
drum winder winding .
Close wind:
 Coil Coil ,
winding close wind .
 compact package ஐ .
winding winding
.
 wind package spindle winder
.
AUTOMATIC WINDING MACHINE (THE SCHLFHORST AUTO CONER)
Passage of material through Automatic Winding Machine
 winding machine . Ring cop cone
wind .
 machine winder winding
.

 machine
. Yam .
 Machine 10 winding position .
machine Knottor . knotter
winding unit . yarn
break unit yam ஐ suction splice
Unit , ring bobbin
ring bobbin wind positionஐ ,
knotter .
 Yarn bobbin unwinding accelerator, tension device, clearing unit, stop motion,
rotary drum package ஐ . Package cradle
hydraulic .

 Over head blower suction machine

. Automatic waxing, nuto dolfing
Auto concer .
SPECIAL FEATURES AUTO CORNER
1. Passage: (Yarns ) Supply package - Yarn tensioner - Snick plate - Broker thread
stop motion-package. Yarn passage more or less straight path.
2.
machine .
traveler , machine rail
. Traveller device .
3. Yarn winding speed 1200mpm.
NAMES OF AUTOMATIC WINDING MACHINE

1. Schlafhorst automatic winder.
2. Murata precision winder
3. Barber colman automatic spooler
4. Savio automatic cone winder
ELECTRONIC CLEARERS:
Winding Machine , yarn
yarn electronic yarn clear
. electronic clear .
1. PHOTO ELECTRIC TYPE -1953
2. CAPACITANCE TYPE - 1957
PHOTO ELECTRIC TYPE
 yarn photo electric
.
 Yam diameter ,
,
yarm-ஐ .
 , photo electric device-ஐ
. yarn diameter (thick place, nep, slub)
photo electric device
.
 electrical signal amplifier

. signal slub size
discrimnator .
 yarn diameter
signal knife actuator .

knife cut .
 cut slub size and thick place
control knob set . Reference voltage ஐ
.
 Signal voltage volatageஐ knife . ,
slub thick place
reference voltage .
CAPACITANCE TYPE:
 clear
. yam
.


Gauging head .
 ( yarn ) condenser
capacitance plate yam weight
.
 yarn thick plae weight
capacitance .
 Electrical signalஐ . signal
amplify discriminator .
 reference voltage signal voltage compare
knife . fibre
clearer .
SPLICING
 Yarn (Knot less) fibre entanglement
splicing .
 yarm
shortlength .
 diameter yarn
dia .

 splicing .
 Splicing .
 Yarn twist (Untwisting)
 fibre
.(fibre entaglement)
 twist (retwisting)
TYPE OF SPLICING
1. SPLICING USING COMPRESSED AIR.
2. SPLICING BY MECHANICAL MEANS.
SPLICING USING COMPRESSED AIR: A (chamber)

untwist cut .
 untwist
retwist .
.
SPLICING BY USING DISC:
 disc disc
reverse direction yarn untwist overlap
twist
disc .
SALIENT FEATURES OF SPLICED YARN
1. Yarn .
2. dia .
3. Spliced yarn cloth yarn
Cloth-ஐ .
4. Tail less joint
5. Yarn Brakage loom . (Heald & dent knot
)
6. Knitting fabric knot .

7. Shuttless weaving
8. Suitable for all type of yarn.
FAULTS IN WOUND PACKAGES:
Winding Package defect .
1. Stitching or Jail formation
2. Soft nose or Base
3. Patterning or Ribbon formation
4. Excessive hard package edges
5. Tendency to slough off
6. Yarn Entanglement
7. Snarls
8. Wild yarn
STICHING OR JALI FORMATION:
yarm Jali , yarm transvers
package edge jali form .
machine unwinding continuous . Yarn breakage
yam waste .
 Winding yarn tension

 Package drum spindke play.
 Traverse restrictore setting.
 Winding groove yam .
 Tension bracket drum alignment .
SOFT NOSE OR BASE:
 Package 1 nose Base soft soft
nose or soft bse .
 Yarn unwinding slough -off ,
compactness dye pick-up .
:
1. Package axis drum alignment .

EXCESSIVE HARD PACKAGE:

Edge package hardness excessive hard
package . uneven dye pick-up .
1. yarm tension.
2. Package drum .
TENDENCY TO SLOUGH OFF
 Winding ring cop coil yarn bunch
package ஐ .
 sloogh off . process unwinding yarn
entaglement ஐ .
1. winding .
2. Ring cop build .
YARN ENTANGLEMENT
 Yarn yarn entanglement .
 process unwinding . Hand
waste .
1. Knotting yarn ஐ release winder

2. Automatic winder knotting Splicing failutre
3. suction pressure.
SNARLS
process yarn
conditions .
1. Yarm twist.
2. Knotting yarnஐ release operator
WILD YARN
Wild yarm winding yam
yam . weacing warp breakage .
 Snick plate assembly tung tension assembly a loose yarn .

 Clearer brus loose yarn .

 Operator .
PATTERING OR RIBBON FORMATION
 yam coil wind coil
wind Ribboning (m) patterning . precision
winder package traversing rotational speed
pattern .

WEFT WINDING
Objects of weft winding
1. Shutle pim weft packageஐ compact
2. spg-cop yam yarn pirmஐ

.
3. Yam Weak places, , slubs
.
STUDY OF HIGH SPEED WEFT WINDER (OR) PIRN WINDER
The figure shows the passage of yarn through a pirn winding machine
From supply package
through the yarn guide
through the tensioner

through the stop motion wire
through through the traverse guide
on to the pirn.
 Supply package winder

. M/s
winder , .
cone holder .
 Cone yarm disc type tension ஐ .
set disc knob pressure plate
.
 Knob 0-9 . knob ஐ
tension ,
tension .
 Yarn tension disc broken thread stop motion wire
.
 yarm break wdg unit
.
 wire yarm thread guideஐ .
 traverse guide .
 yarn prinஐ .
 Pim holder
holderd .
 holder pim
. winding pirm , traversing
travers guide .

WORKING
 pirn winder wdg unit
. pim empty pirn
winding
.
 M/C winding unit .
.
 unit motor .
unit .
 unit drivingஐ friction disc
.
 Yann pirn traverse traverse guide traversing
mechanism connect .
 feeler wheel screw prin dia ஐ control
. chase length diameterஐ
feeler wheel
wdgl . pirn winding
.
 Pim winding coil binding coil wind
. pirm companct
.
 Pim wind base holder
doffing . empty pirn
empty pin circular hopper
Unit . Empty pim chute
holderஐ . Circular hopper
empty pim .
 Yam broken thread stop motion wire wdg
. package yamஐ
winding ஐ .

BUNCH AND ITS NECESSACITY

 Bunch length winding automatic pirm
winder , loom weaving shed
.
 (1) loom pirn
pick shuttle weft
.
 crack defect
. pim base
yam wind .
 Bunch yam crack
. Bunch winding
traverse winding
 Bunch length loom widthஐ . 3
pick length .

WARPING
OBJECTIVES OF WARPING
1. Cone, Cheese, D.F. Bobbin package
weaving sheet yamஐ .
yam sheetஐ warp sheet .
2. .
3. Warp sheet yam
winding .
4. Warp sheetl ஐ beam tension wind
Types of warping machines:
1. Beam warping machine
2. Sectional warping machine
3. Mill warping machine
Beam Warping Machines
Classification:
Beam Warping Machine

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  
Slow speed High speed Super speed
1. Ruti – Swiss 2. Schlafhorst – Germany 3. Barber Colman – USA
STUDY OF HIGH SPEED WARPING M/C:

 Slow speed warping m/c D.F. Bobbin

warping
m/c supply package cone (or) cheese nose
unwinding .
 nose unwinding yarn tension ,
.
 Cone package yam
m/c crecling .
 Creel nose supply package

 Cone tensioning device .

tensioning yarn tension
 Yarn tension warping , washer , tension pin

. Count 36s
yam 10-14s gram , 36 yam 5-8gram
.
 warping machine magazine creel .
runing supply packagg supply package
.
m/c creeding .
.
.
 Nose unwinding m/c yarm
unwind . (Over running)
yarm ,
beam yam .
.
 Yam , yam
brake broken thread stop motion wire
, winding drum .
 warping m/c yarn guide roller warping
beam beam winding
. , beam
.
 m/c beam
. wind warp yarn
lengthஐ measuring device .
 winding drum yamஐ
.

 m/c , creel Warp stop motion

Oscillating Fan .
.
 ball bearing
. M/c 400mpm 500mpm .
MAGAZINE CREEL:
 magazine screel .
 Yam supply creeling m/c
.
 unit cone holder .
 creel 500 end 1000 holder
. tensione 500 .
 holder cone active cone (or) running cone
, reserve cone .
 Running Cone reserve Cone
, running cone , reserve cone yarnஐ
supply . Creel boy coneஐ
coneஐ .
 conc
. Conc .

Advantages:
Creeling m/c .
.
 .
 .
Disadvantages:
 Creelers .
 . count
.

SIZING
 Sizing warp preparation Process .
weaving .
 Sizing weaving . Sizing
weaving .
OBJECTIVES OF SIZING:
 Yarm (Weavability) .
 Yarn .
 Weaving stess strain
.
 Yarm .
 Protruding fibersஐ .
 Yarn sizing .
 Grey cloth cover, feel appearanceஐ sizing
.
 cloth .
 warpers beam or back beam end
weavers beam . (Beaming)
SIZING INGREDIENTS:
 Sizing ingredients size film .
 strenght , toughness smoothness
.
 elastic
, . tension
yam break .
 Ingredientsஐ
.
 Size paste size ingredients .
 Size ingredients .
a. Type of fibre. eg.Cotton, P/c
b. Type of loom. (Water jet, autoloom etc)
c. Availability of ingredients.
d. Cost of ingredients.
Sizing ingredients .
 Adhesives
 Softener & Lubricants
 Antiseptics
 Deliquescent
 Weighting agents
 Bluing agents
 Antistatic agents
 Weighting agents
 Antifoaming agents
ADHESIVE (OR) BINDERS:
 size mixing- Ingredients .
starch gum .
 .
.
 yarn protruding fibre bind .
yamஐ conting .
 loom yarm abrasion . Loom shedding
warp thread .
 thread .
yam healed eye reed abrasion .
 .
.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF AHESIVE:
 NATURAL ADESIVES:
o Maize starch, tapioca starch, Potato starch, Sago starch, Wheat starch,
Thin boiling starch, Tamarind kernel power (TKP), LTKP, Gum Arabic,
Glue, Carboxy methyl cellulose (CMC)
 SYNTHETIC ADHESIVES
 PVA - Fully Hydrolysed and Partially Hydrolysed
 Acrylic Polymers - Poly acrylic acid, Polymethacrylic acid
 Vinyl polymers - Ply acrylates Stymer compound

SAGO FOUR:
 cloth .
weaving .
 warp end pick cloth
.
 Sego flour
.
 . paste
viscosityஐ .
 160°F-170° F gelatize .
 boiling adhesive
Caustic soda (Sago floor 0.5%) size mixing
.
CORN STARCH:
 gelatize
.
 180° F gelatize .
 boiling .
boiling time Caustic soda .
FARINA:
 potato plant . starchஐ
.
 150° F gelatize . 20 boil
maximum viscosity .
 starch viscosity .
 fine medium fabric .
.
 Heavy fabric sago flour
TAPIOCA:
 Tapioca . south India
.

 viscosity farina sago flour

.
 180° F maximum Viscosityஐ 10
.
 Viscosityஐ .
sizing uniformity
.
SOFTNERS OR LUBRICANTS:
 sizing yarn lubrication .
 yam .
 Sizing- starching Yam
.
 loom heald eye reed yarm
frictional resistance .
 lubricants softeners loom yarn
frictionஐ .
 lubricants cloth good feel
.
Example: Tallow, Turkey red oil, Soap and Japan wax, and paraffin wax.
DELIQUESCENTS OR HYGROSCOPIC SUBSTANCES:
 Cotton yamஐ weave
deliquescent .
 moisture .
 size yarm brittle
.
 sized yam moisture percentagesஐ .
Example: MgCl₂, CaC₂ and Glycerin, ethylene glycol, Polypropylene, glycol
ANTISEPTICS:
 Mildew microorganism group . fungoid
.
 celluloseஐ . . Mildew
growth .

 Sized un sized cottonஐ storage

mildew . antiseptics mildew growth
.
Example: ZnCl2, salicylic acid, sodium silico fluoride
WEIGHTING MATERIAL:
 Yarn extra weight weighting material
.
 Winding Warping loss of weightஐ
weighting material .
Example: Chine Clay, French chalk, Gypsum
BLUEING OR BRIGHTENING AGENTS:
 Cloth gray state
.
 agents cotton original colour cream colouஐ
white .
Exaple: Ultramarine Blue, Acid dyes
ANTISTATIC AGENTS:
 synthetic fibre .
synthetic fibire- static current
.
 ' dirt winding unwinding
, Cloth fold ,
 .
antistatic agents .
Example: Lissapol Nx, Soap, Sulphate oil.
WETTING AGENTS:
 Water repellent fibre sizing
. Cotton viscose
.
Example: Turkey red oil (TRO)
ANTIFOAMING AGENTS:

 Squeezing roller roller size

paste foam . TRO, Soap
.
 Foam . size
pick . size level maintain
. foam ஐ anti foaming
. size pasto .
Example: Amyl Alcohol, Turpentine, pine oil.
PREPRATION OF SIZE PASTE:
Size preparation .
1. Cold slurry
2. Heating & Cooking
3. Storage
Cold Starry:
 Shurry .
ingredients lumps
.
 .
ingredients , .
 Stirring mechnismஐ starch-ஐ
. Softenerஐ ingredient
.
 gum
.
 Softenreஐ boiling 15
. .
 15 60
. stirringஐ cooking
kettle .
Heating & Cooling:
 Steam Slurry heat . Stirring
speed 50 to 60rpm .

 viscosity
.
 Viscosity cooking
Boiling steam
simmering condition .
 Boiling time ingredients typeஐ Tapioca, 1.5
Hrs/ Sago-3 to 4 Hr.
 Pressure cooker cooking time 40
. Pressure cooker air
. oxidation paste
.
Storage:
 Size paste
. .
 cooking
. Paste 90° C
15 rpm .
 size patte ,
. Temp visocity
.
Types of Sizing:
 Puze size : <5%
 Light size : 5 to 10%
 Medium size : 10 to 20%
 Heavy size : 20 to 40%
SIZE PICK-UP:
 Size pick up sized yarn sizeஐ
. sized yam
. light size, puze size, medium size .

STUDY OF MULTI CYLINDER SIZING MACHINE

 moden sizing machine . cotton man made fibre
. composite mill
. multicylinder sizing machineஐ
.
machineஐ 4 .
1. Creel
2. Size box
3. Drying Unit
4. Head stock
HORIZONTAL CREEL:
 beam
.
 beam warp sheet
beam
.
 beam warp unwinding
. beam ,
beam warp sheet unwind .

beam warp sheet size box

.
SIZE BOX:
 Size box size solution . warp sheet
.
 Size box rectangular shapes cast iron stainless steel
.
 Size box compartment . compartment

reserve box , compartment warp sheet size
.
 First compartment float roller size levelஐ control . Second
compartment immersion roller, squeezing roller .
Size box temprerature 90° to 100°C
 Yam immersion roller size paste
Squeezing roller .
 wet sized yam . squeezing roller
sizer paste yarn . paste size box
.
DRYING UNIT:
 Squeeze Roller warp sheet drying cylinderஐ
.
 Cylinder 5-13 .
 Cylinder steam .

 Warp sheet cylinderஐ dry .

Cylinder dia 24" - 34" .
 Cylinder width machine widthஐ
 cylinder 2 Cylinder Tefon coat
. yan cylinders .
temperature cylinder temperature
control
 Last cylinder warp sheet dry
.
HEAD STOCK:
 Drying yarn, dry splitting (splitting rod)
marking motion expanding combஐ .
 width drag roller .
 warp sheet drag roller guide rolled
beamஐ .
 drag roller warp sheet tensionஐ .
Tension warp sheetஐ weaver beams
.
 Moistusre sensor Head stock . moisture
meter Head stock .

UNIT II
PRIMARY AND SECONDARY MOTIONS OF WEAVING
CONTENT
Introduction - Looms, Definitions of Right hand and Left-hand looms. Passage of
material through a Plain power loom.
Primary motions-shedding-picking and beat up.
Shedding - Objectives, Type of sheds, Types of shedding mechanism-Tappet,
Dobby, Jacquard. Positive and Negative Shedding -Working of Negative tappet
shedding mechanism with a line diagram. Definition of Early shedding and late
shedding.
Picking – Objectives, Types of picking- Working of Cone over Picking Mechanism
with a line diagram, Comparison of over pick and under pick mechanism.
Beat-up – Objectives, Working of Crank arm beat up mechanism with a line sketch,
Sley Eccentricity - Factors affecting sley eccentricity.
Secondary motions - Take up motion - Objectives, Types, working of positive
continuous take-up mechanism. Let-off Motion – Objects, types, Working of Negative
Let-Off Motion with a line sketch – control of warp tension.
Auxiliary Motions - Functions of weft fork motion, Warp protector motion, Lease
Rods, Types of Heald’s, Reed, Temples.
Cloth defects - Types of Cloth defects, Causes and remedies
INTRODUCTION TO WEAVING PROCESS

WEAVING( ):
 Set
(interlace) .
 Set , (Warp)
,. (Weft)
 (Loom)
.

CLASSIFICATION OF WEAVING MACHINES:
 loom-
. Hand Loom Power Loom .
Power Loom .
A). NON-AUTOMATIC POWER LOOMS:
 Loom Primary, Secondary Auxilliary
Mechanism .
 non automatic
.
1. Tappet Looms
2. Dobby Looms
3. Jacquard Looms
4. Drop box Looms
5. Terry Looms

B) AUTOMATIC LOOMS:
 ,
(mechanism) non automatic loom
.
 loom automatic loom
1. Pim changing automatic looms
2. Shuttle Changing automatic looms
C) SHULTTLELESS LOOMS (OR) UNCONVENTIONAL LOOMS:

 Non-auto auto loom
(Shuttle)
loom shuttleless loom . loom
quality .
1. Air jet loom,
2. Water jet loom,
3. Projectile loom
4. Rapier loom
D) CIRCULAR LOOM:
 pick
. Shuttles
.
 Shuttle Tubular Fabric . picking
cycles
Loom
 Loomஐ Weaver .
 Loom Starting handle .
 Loomஐ . loom handle
loomஐ .

RIGHT HAND LOOM:

Weaver loomஐ , loom
Weavert Loom handle
Weaver Right Hand loom .
LEFT HAND LOOM:
 loom handle Weaver
Left hand loom .
Loom department machine layout RH loom
LH loom .
LH loom RH loom , RH loom LH loom
. loom
.
PASSAGE OF WARP THROUGH THE LOOM
 Warp Beam- Back rest

Heald .

 Heald shed
.
 reed . Reed
.
 shed Beat-up
.
 temple
.
 front rest take up roller
cloth roller- .
MOTION
Machanisins .

PRIMARY MOTIONS:
Shedding
 Warp sheetஐ sheet . (Shed
formation)
Picking
 shed weft .
Beat-up :
 wet
(fell) .
.
SECONDARY MOTIONS:
,
.

LET OFF MOTION:

 ,
Beam- . ,
tension .
TAKE UP MOTION:

,
, cloth Roller .
AUXILLARY MOTIONS:
,
.
WARP PROTECTING MOTION:
 , shed
Warp yarn reed
.
WEFT STOP MOTION:
 , Weft yarn
.
WARP STOP MOTION :
 Warp yam Loom
TEMPLES:
 Cloth widthஐ loom maintain
BRAKE:
 loom .
SHUTTLE:
loom shuttle side .
Groove .
.
. yam
shuttle eye .
shuttle .

SHEDDING MECHANISM
OBJECTIVES OF SHEDDING MECHANISM:

 Weaving (weft yarn)
Layer shedding
.
 shedding mechanism warp yan
.
 tappet dobby Jacquard
.
TYPES OF SHED
shedding mechanism heald
. shed formation :
Closed shed
 Bottom closed shed
 Centre closed shed
Open shed

 Open shed
 Semi open shed
picking warp yarms

warp yam
.
BOTTOM CLOSED SHED:
 shed
.
 Warp Yarns level .
 top shed , shed depth
.
 , ,
.
ADVANTAGE:
warp yarns alternate- tighten slacken covered
cloth .
DISADVANTAGES:
1. shed
.
2. Warp yarms unequal strain .
3. .
USES:
 shed single lift dobby and single lift jacquaerd machines
.

CENTRE CLOSED SHED:

 shod
,
.
 picking layer centre- close
.
A Closed warp line B C top Bottom

warp line, D E yarn
. shed depth equal
.
ADVANTAGE:
 , shed strain .
 Shed opening time .
 .
 .
DISADVANTAGE:
 warp yan Constant motion/unsteady
movement .
USES:
Woodcraft Tappet, all centre shed dobbies and Jacquards.

OPEN SHED:
 Open shed warp yarns ,
.
 ,
shed .
 warp yarn strain .
.
A B top Bottom warp Yarn

Line , C D
.
ADVANTAGE:
 Warp Yarn strain .
 .
 Shed .
 .
DISADVANTAGE:
 Warp breakage levelling apparatus .
 Heald Heald
Starin .
USES:
 Ordinary tappet u Knowles dobby, Jaquards .

SEMI OPEN SHED:

 shed closed open shed principle
.
 warp yam .
 layer
layer .
A Layer warp yarn , B top Layer warp Yarn

Line . , C yarn
D movementஐ
. E
movement,
USES:
 Double lift dobbies un double lift jacquards.
TYPES OF SHEDDING MECHANISMS:

shedding Mechanisms . ,
1. TAPPET
2. DOBBY
3. JACQUARD
TAPPET SHEDDING:
 shedding motion .
 10 Heald frame .
 Loom speed . design
, .

DOBBY SHEDDING :
 Dobby .
 16 36 heald frame
 Mechanisms .
 Initial cost .
 Looms speed .D
 esign , .
JACQUARD SHEDDING:
 Dobby-ஐ . moving parts .
 machine cost .
 warp yam .
 , design change .
 Loom speed .
POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE SHEDDING:

POSITIVE SHEDDING:
 Heald
Shedding mechanism-
Positive shedding .
NEGATIVE SHEDDING:
 Heald
shedding mechanism
Negative shedding .
(reversing mechanism).
TAPPET SHEDDING:
 Tappet mechanism .
 Rotary Motion Rod lever reciprocating
motion .
TYPES
1). Negative
2). Positive .

Negative Tappet
 heald
.
 ,
Positive tappet
 heald Direction .
NEGATIVE TAPPET SHEDDING MECHANISM
 plain weave warp yarn .

 Warp yarns alternate Heald draw
shed
.
 Heald shaft top roller , fulcurm
treadle lever control .
 heald shaft heald cord leather starp
top roller .

 heald cord lamp rod

, connecting rod fulcrum
treadle lever .
 Bottom shaft shedding tappets, teadle lever
alternate depress heald downward movement
.
 Upward notion top roller . ,
front heald shaft tappet depress , leather
starp small top roller unwound back leather strap/big
roller wind , back heald shaftஐ lift .
 pick back heald shaft tappet depress
front heald shaft lift .
ADVANTAGES OF TAPPET SHEDDING:

1. simple robust cheap type mechanism .
2. . capacity result .
3. shedding mechanism compare
lift .
4. Heald weave structur
dwell periodஐ increase .
5. warp yarn strainஐ .

6. .
7. .
DISADVANTAGES OF TAPPET SHEDDING:

1. Weave tappet . .
Counter shaft wheel un
2. Tappet of desing formaing capacity .
10 tappet .

SHEDDING
Normal shedding
 Healds crossing top centre . normal shedding
.
EARLY SHEDDING:
 Top centre heald crossing early shedding
 Shed form
early sheding .
 Heals shaft 355° top centre 5° leve
LATE SHEDDING
 Top centre healds crossing late shedding
.
 Heals shaft 5° top centre 5° leve
 low twist continuous filament weaving . warp

abrasionஐ

PICKING:
 Picking, Primary motion .
 weft yarnஐ shed
. . shuttle
FUNCTIONS OF PICKING MECHANISM:
1. Shuttleஐ .
2. shuttleஐ .
TYPES OF PICKING:
Picking mechanism . ,
1. Conventional picking mechanism (or) negative picking mechanism.
2. Unconventional picking mechanism (or) Positive picking mechanism.
Negative Picking mechanism .

1. Cone over pick mechanism.
2. Cone under pick mechanism &
3. Side lever under pick mechanisam.
CONE OVER PICK MECHANISMS:

 Cone overpick mechanism Non automatic cotton loom light,

medium heavy weight
.
 mechanisms loom
picking alternate .
 Picking shaft loom frame bottom side foot step bearing
, top cannon bearing .
 Picking shaf slot picking cone .
 picking shaft picking stick metal clamp
.
 Metal clamp, parts radial teeth
mesh
.
 stick positionஐ .
parts nut lock .

 picking stick picking strap .

 , bottom shaft picking tappet
.
 picking cone strike movement picking
stick picking shaft transmit shuttle picker
drive .
 Return spring coneஐ picking tappet surface
mechanism pick .
 Picking cam parts .
 .
 Boss bottom shaft key shell
boss position
boss shell radial teeth mesh tight
.
 slippage .
 Shell part bolt
. shell
.
 Nosebit parts . Shell bolt
replace .
COMPARISION BETWEEN UNDERPICK AND OVERPICK:

 Underpick loom picking stick fulcurm shuttle box
 Overpick loom picking stick fulcurm shuttle box .

 Over pick loom underpick loomஐ .
 Overpick motion loom , underpdick
medium broad loom .
 Overpick loom
, underpick loom
.
 Overpick loom underpick loom ஐ .

 Overpick mechanism power .

 Overpick loom spindle spindle oil , under
pick loom .
 Under pick loom mechanisam
. : Pim changing, drop box, mechanism.
 Parts Movement in under picking overpick ஐ direct
loom speed with light shuttle .
BEATING UP:
 Primary motion bent-up mechanism .

 function weft yarnஐ cloth fell
.
 reed sley .
 Sley fulcrum , crank crank cam drive
.
 Sley arm . sword .
 rocking shalt
.
 sley sword race board level- crank arm pin
connect . sword pin .
 Crank arm- crank shaft- crank connect
. Crank reed sley oscillate
.
 Sley reed fix .
FUNCTIONS OF REED
1. Warp yarnஐ
2. Warp ends space -
3. Shuttle guideஐ guide .
4. weft yarn-ஐ cloth fell .
5. cloth width-ஐ .

BEAT-UP MECHANISM:
CONSTRUCTION AND WORKING:

 Beat-up mechanism contruction and working
.
 Sley sword rocking shaft bracket

.
 Bracket pair bolt sley sword- connect
.
 sley swor height-ஐ adjust .
 Sley- sword pin crank
arm cotter .
 Crank arm- crank shaft- crank- cotter
.
 Reed- Reed cap- .
 Crank shaft sley rocking shaft osciallate .

 oscillation sley- forward movement r shuttle, shuttle box-

reed weft yam-ஐ cloth fell
.
 Beat-up reed cloth right angle position- .
SLEY ECCENTRICITY:
Sley Eccentricity sley crank shaft equal time unequal

distanceஐ .
Sley eccentricity effect :
(1). Shuttle- passage
(2). Beat-up effectivensess ஐ .
SLEY ECCENTRICITY RATIO:

crank- radius- crank arm- ratio
. e= r/l
r-Crank radius
l-Crank air length

SECONDARY MOTION
TAKE-UP MOTION
FUNCTIONS:
1. , Cloth roller
wind
2. , Pick Spacing ஐ
(Picks/Unit space)
TYPES OF TAKE-UP-MOTION:
1. Negative take-up motion
2. Positive take-up motion
a) Continuos take-up motion
b) Intermittent take up motion
 5 Wheel take-up
 7 Wheel take-up
NEGATIVE TAKEUP MOTION:

 Take-up roller dead weight .
beat-up . Pick Spacing
.
POSITIVE TAKE-UP MOTION:
 Cloth roller
. Picks per inch .
CONTINUOUS TAKE - UP MOTION
 side shaft right angle Bottam shaft

.
 Cloth ஐ bevel wheels, Worn, Worn wheel, change pinion,
Stud pinion, beam wheel beem motion .
 Worn side shaft fork finger
.


Weft fork finger clutch release take – up
.
 crack form prevent . take - up motion,
filament yarn rayon silk weaving .
 highest standard pick spacing .
finishing .
LET - OFF MOTION

FUNCTIONS:
1. Weaving tensionஐ .
2. pick warp
3. Take-up motion Cloth picks spacing

.
TYPES
Let-off motion .
1. Negative let off motion
2. Positive let off motion

NEGATIVE LET - OFF MOTION
 beam .
 Take-up motion cloth yarn
beam .
 beam drive , Negative let-off motion
.
 chain, lever dead weight .
 chain weaver's beam ruffle ஐ .
 Chain loom frame fix hook
hook weight lever slot
.
 adjust .
bolt and peg weight lever hook .
 Weight lever weight . arrangements
warp yarn tension .
 meachanism take -up force drive .
 Take – up . , Beam diameter ,
.
 Warp tension beam diameter . warp
tension constant .

 Uniform warp tension weight ஐ weight lever free end

fulcurm ஐ , manual .
 fuLl beam beam . Weight
, weight lever .
AUXILLARY MOTIONS
WEFT STOP MOTION

 Weft stop motion object weft yam
loom ஐ Cloth crack
.
TYPES OF WEFT FORK MOTIONS:

:
1. Side weft fork motion
2. Centre weft fork motion
WARP PROTECTORS
 Warp protector motion, shuttle opposite box
loomஐ .
 faulty pick warp shed picking
band
 beat-up shed shuttle
warp yarns break . loom
.
TYPE OF WARP PROTECTOR MOTION :

1. Loose Reed Motion
2. Fast Reed Motion
TEMPLES
 Temple unit clothஐ rollers grip
, cloth width at fell ஐ reed warp width
.

 Temple unit loom frame spring loaded bar

.
Types
 Temple .
 ring, roller, and full width temples .
LEASE RODS:
 Lease rod function warp thread proper
sequence- warp yarns entanglement broken endsஐ
.
 Lease rode weaving covered cloth
warp tension control .
 lease rods back rest back heald shaft
.
 Back heald lease rod front
heaid fell of the cloth equal
.
FABRIC DEFECTS
 fabric weaving .
 weaving .
 weaving .
. .
1. Warp defects
2. Weft defects
3. Cloth defects
WARP DEFECTS
1. Bed selvedges
2. Warp breakages
3. Wrong ends
4. Missing ends
5. Warp floats
6. arp stitching

WEFT DEFECTS:
 Weft breakages
 Wrong no. of picks
 Weft bars
 Cracks
 Weft floats
 Lashing-in
 Weft curls
 Thick & thin places
CLOTH DEFECTS:
1. Reediness
2. 2. Temple marks
3. Oil Stains
4. Starting marks
5. Gout
6. Dirty Cloth
7. Hairy cloth
BAD SELVEDGE:
(Causes)
1. strong temple
2. Selvedge yarn
3. Shuttle rebound
4. Weavers beam yarn
5. Shed unequal
6. Loose beam flanges.
7. Ground yarn selvedge yarn tension .
WARP BREAKAGE:
1. Warp yam size .
2. Lease rod -
3. Improper setting of back rest

4. Shed depth
5. Unpolished shuttle
6. reed
7. Fibrous warp
8. Reed wire
WRONG ENDS

heald wire .
 Cloth design . wrong end
.
MISSING ENDS:

.
 Warp stop motion .
WARP FLOATS:
 Heald wire
 Reed wire
 Warp yam
WARP STITCHING
 Warp yam size
 Heald shaft cord
WEFT DEFECTS
WEFE BREAKAGES
 Weak weft yarn
 Nose pirn
 Front plate setting
 Shuttle
 Un winding tension

 Shuttle eye pirm
CRACKS
 Irregular take - up
 Crack .
 Reed slack beat up Lict-off
.
 Crank, crank arm, crank shaft loose
.
 Brake
WEFT CURL
 Weft yam twist
 Weft yam tension
 Shuttle rebound
 Weft fork motion .
WRONG NUMBER OF PICKS

 Change wheel teeth .
 Warp slack light Emery roller gripping
Take-up Beat up
force
WEFT FLOAT
 Shed (doesn't match design) Heald wire reed wire
Warp yam
 Warp yarn tention
 temple
THICK & THIN PLACES

 Take-up irregular
 Let-off irregular
 Cloth emery roller

 Warp yarn of tention .
WEFT BARS
 , dark light
.
 Yarn Periodic
 Count
 pin winding tension in filament yarn
 yarn twist colour
 Blend composition
LASHING IN
 weft yam fabric
(tucked in)
 drop box loom .
 damaged picker, box front plate, weft fork
.
CLOTH DEFECTS
REEDINESS
Warp yarm group
cloth width .
cloth cover .
 Count reed .
 reed wires
 Bent reed wire
 Shed line tension
 Late shedding
 Lease rod heald shaft
TEMPLE MARKS

Selvedge yam .
selvedge .
, Poplin, full voil .
Causes:
 temple
 Bad temple ,
 needle temple
 temple ringlet side movement
 Temple ring .
OIL STAINS
 Lubricant .
 Yarn fabric Oil stain
 Loom parts Oil
PATCHINESS
 ,
yan dense cover
patchiness.
Causes
 Warp weft yam unevenness
 yam quality Fabric construction
.
STARTING MARKS
 defect loomஐ start .
 Weft crack crammed pick .
 Crammed pick weft direction
pick density .
 Loomஐ start fell of the cloth reed position ஐ weaver
adjust .

GOUT
 fluff wood chips
Gout .
 Waste or fly weaving reed fell of the cloth
.
 Damaged picker
 shuttle connecting leather
.
DIRTY CLOTH
 Lubrication weaver
cloth .
HAIRY CLOTH
 fibre cloth
 reed wire
 Size warp yarn
 Bottom shed line slay
 Emery roller

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1060233310 - TECHNOLOGY FABRIC FORMATION

SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE

1060233310 - TECHNOLOGY FABRIC

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

SEQUENCE OF PROCESSES IN WEAVING PREPARATORY

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

weaving process .. weaving prepiratory

GREY WARP PREPARATION

1. Winding by high speed, super speed or autematic cyne winding machine

MULTICOLOURED WARP PREPARATION

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

Ring bobbin Hank Dyed Hank sized Weavers beam

Ring bobbin Cheese Dyed Cheese Dyed back beam

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

COLOURED WEFT PREPARATION

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

Terms and definitions in cone winding

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

NUMBER OF WINDS (OR TURNS

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

 Over head blower suction machine

NAMES OF AUTOMATIC WINDING MACHINE

 electrical signal amplifier

signal knife actuator .

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

6. Knitting fabric knot .

 Winding yarn tension

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

EXCESSIVE HARD PACKAGE:

1. Knotting yarn ஐ release winder

 Snick plate assembly tung tension assembly a loose yarn .

 Clearer brus loose yarn .

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

2. spg-cop yam yarn pirmஐ

through the yarn guide

through the tensioner

through the stop motion wire

through through the traverse guide

 Supply package winder

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

BUNCH AND ITS NECESSACITY

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

STUDY OF HIGH SPEED WARPING M/C:

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

 Slow speed warping m/c D.F. Bobbin

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

 Cone tensioning device .

 Yarn tension warping , washer , tension pin

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

 m/c , creel Warp stop motion

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY, SSM POLYTECHNIC COLLEGE , KOMARAPAYAM

 viscosity farina sago flour