Deterrence Dispensed Presents:

For OEM GLOCK, 3D-Printed GLOCK-Style, and GLOCK-Based 80% Frames

Introduction
The Riptide Holster is a 3D-printed inside-the-waistband (IWB) appendix-carry holster that is
compatible with GLOCK’s Modular Optic System (MOS), is suppressor-height sight friendly, and
can be built for approximately $8.00. The Riptide Holster was designed to be used with OEM
GLOCK frames, most 3D-printed frames, and most 80% frames. There are three different holster
sizes: Jib, Mainsail, and Spinnaker. While these holsters are primarily designed for GLOCK-style
frames, you may discover that they are compatible with a wide variety of frames. This is especially
true of the Mainsail Holster. The Riptide Holster began as a slightly modified Phil Phisher holster
that accidentally and quickly snowballed into what it is today. A big thanks to Phil for laying the
groundwork! https://odysee.com/@philphisher

A namesake inspired by sailing

The Jib
A jib is a smaller sail that typically accompanies a mainsail and increases the performance and
stability of a sailboat. Embodying the agility of a jib sail, this holster is designed for single-stack
GLOCK-style handguns. Its sleek and compact nature allows for easy maneuverability, providing
a carry option that complements the lightweight and streamlined characteristics of smaller
firearms.

The Mainsail
The mainsail is the primary sail on a sailboat. Drawing inspiration from the mainsail, this holster
accommodates standard-sized GLOCK-style handguns. Just as the mainsail serves as the
primary driving force of a sailboat, this holster acts as the central choice, offering versatility for a
variety of frames, some of which are outside of the GLOCK family.

The Spinnaker
The spinnaker is a large sail that is used to maximize speed and power when sailing downwind.
Mirroring the power and resilience of a spinnaker sail, this holster is tailored for large-frame
GLOCK handguns.
Compatibility
The following and similar variants have been tested:

Jib
● OEM GLOCK Slimline 43, 43x, 48
● DD43.1, DD43X
● Doot Defense Sidekick 43x

Mainsail
● OEM GLOCK 17, 19, 26
● DD17.2, DD19.2, DD26.2
● BB17, BB19, BB26
● P80 PF940V, PF940C, PF940SC
● Strike 80
● PSA Dagger

Spinnaker
● OEM GLOCK 29, 20

Spinnaker XL
● OEM GLOCK 20L, 40

Hardware
 ¼” Chicago Bolts - Qty 5 (required) https://a.co/d/6XWBJCL

Hardware Specs:
 Phillips Screw Heads - 3/8” outside diameter and 1/4" long
threaded section with an 8-32 thread
 Slotted Post Fasteners - 7/16” outside diameter, 13/64” diameter
post, and 1/4" long threaded section
 Rubber Washers - 1/2" outside diameter

Upgraded Belt Clips (optional)

You can use any clips that have a 0.600” hole spacing. If you wish to use one of the best clips
on the market, order the following DCC Mod 4 clip and hardware:

 DCC Mod 4 Clip -

https://discreetcarryconcepts.com/Mod-4-Universal-Height-adjustable-HLR-Discreet-Gear-
Clip%E2%84%A2-1-5-belt-p115977116

 Hardware for DCC Mod 4 Clip - https://a.co/d/8CCEWj9

Holster Length and Concealment
You may wonder why there is only one holster length each for the Standard and Slim holsters.
This is because The Riptide Holster is designed around the “keel principle.” Learn about the “keel
principle” here: https://www.phlsterholsters.com/phlster-the-keel-principle/

Here is another great resource for learning about concealment mechanics:

https://www.phlsterholsters.com/the-basics-of-concealment-mechanics/

If you’re a smaller person and find the holster is too long for you, you can shorten it by sinking the
end of the holster below the bed in your slicer (This may require a setting change in your slicer to
allow this). Please read about and understand concealment mechanics before shortening your
holster. Shortening your holster should only be done as a last resort. You will need to use a belt
sander or similar tool to round the bottom edges of the holster if you shorten it. You may also be
required to shorten your clip, depending on your preferred ride-height.

Due to the length of the GLOCK 40 and 20L, there is a dedicated holster body: Spinnaker XL

Maximum Length of Shortening

Spinnaker Holster with 20 Not recommended

Spinnaker Holster with 29 25mm

Spinnaker XL Holster with 40/20L Not recommended

Mainsail Holster with 17 Not recommended

Mainsail Holster with 19 12mm

Mainsail Holster with 26 18mm

Jib Holster with 48 Not recommended

Jib Holster with 43/43x 20mm

Printing Materials and Printing Instructions
First, an explanation of the parts: The holster body houses the firearm. The belt clip is a clip
suitable for up to 1.5” wide belts. The claw is an arm that interacts with the back of your waistband
to aid in tucking the end of the pistol grip. The claw clip functions similarly to the claw but also
attaches to your waistband, providing additional support to keep the holster securely in position.
Start by printing the holster body, clip, and claw. Once you have determined your preferred ride-
height, print the corresponding claw clip if you desire a more rigid setup.

PLA, PLA Pro/PLA +, PETG, and PACF have all been successfully tested. The holster should not
fail unless you intentionally try to bend the sweat guard.

The STLs have already been oriented properly, but orientation is mentioned and shown below
just in case your slicer flips them around.

Holster
 Print standing upright
 Use enough walls that the area between the hardware is solid (0.4mm nozzle should require
6 walls)
 Infill should not be necessary, but at least use lightning infill to prevent top layers from falling
in -0.16mm layer height is recommended for aesthetics, strength, and smoother drawing and
holstering
 Supports should not be necessary
 Raft or brim just in case
 Follow your filament’s recommended temperatures and speeds
Claw, Clip, and Claw Clip
 Print on their sides
 0.12mm to 0.16mm layer height
 Solid: All walls with 0% infill, or 2 walls with 100% infill (it has been reported that 2 walls and
100% infill makes a stronger clip)
 Supports not necessary
 Raft or brim: Maybe. Depends on your printer. Use your best judgment.
 Follow your filament’s recommended temperatures and speeds

Cleanup
Remove any rafts, brims, and support material and sand, file, or scrape away any sharp edges.
You want to make sure anything that contacts your body is smooth, otherwise it will generate hot
spots.
Assembly
1. Insert a rubber washer between the clamshell (Figure 1) and align it with the hole by using a
punch, screwdriver, pick, pencil, etc. (Figure 2)

Figure 1

Figure 2
2. Insert the female Chicago screw into the clamshell hole from the side opposing the belt clip,
and make sure that it is fully seated. The rubber washer should hold it in place. (Figure 3)

Figure 3

3. Install the corresponding screw and tighten it just beyond finger tight with a screwdriver.
(Figure 4) Note: don’t use an undersized or oversized screwdriver or you may strip out the
screw head if you need to torque down the tension screw heavily during retention tuning.

Figure 4
4. Insert a female Chicago screw into the round belt-clip hole nearest the bottom of the holster
from inside the holster body. (Figures 5 & 6)

Figure 5

Figure 6
5. Put the belt clip in place (Figure 7) and finger tighten the corresponding screw.

Figure 7

6. Now, do the same thing for the second Chicago screw set. (Figure 8)

Figure 8
7. Align the belt clip straight up and down and tighten down both screws. (Figure 9)

Figure 9

8. Flip the holster over and insert the two female Chicago screws in to the two claw holes from
the inside of the holster, then use your finger to hold them in place as you flip the holster
back over. (Figures 10, 11, 12, & 13)

Figure 10
Figure 11

Figure 12
 Figure 13

9. Set the claw in place, install and finger tighten both screws, straighten claw, then tighten both
screws. (Figures 14 &15)

Figure 14
 Figure 15
14

Assembly Diagram
Adjustment
DO NOT ADJUST OR SET UP YOUR HOLSTER OR PRACTICE
DRAWING AND HOLSTERING WITH A LOADED FIREARM

There are two things to consider when adjusting your holster: proper firearm retention and
comfort. Everyone will want something different in terms of retention, but most importantly, the
firearm should remain securely in the holster at all times while still being able to be removed with
minimal, but deliberate, effort. Tighten the clamshell screw a little at a time until you hear and feel
a *click* when inserting the firearm into the holster. It should only require a little bit of force.

Once you’ve sorted out the insert retention, install your holster onto your belt and make any
necessary adjustments to the holster clip angle and ride height. Please refer to the previously
mentioned holster mechanics link to help find the sweet spot. There are both documentation and
videos available on this subject. Take your time with this and try multiple configurations. Here
is the link again for reference:
https://www.phlsterholsters.com/the-basics-of-concealment-mechanics/

Finally, practice drawing and holstering your firearm. You may realize that you need to adjust the
retention again now that you are wearing the holster. The retention should never be loose enough
that the firearm can fall out of the holster even when held or shaken upside down.

Troubleshooting
Problem Solution

 Check compatibility
 Loosen retention screw
Firearm won’t fit or too tight in holster  Calibrate 3D-printer
 Double stack rubber washers or print
customer washer out of TPU (file included)

 Check compatibility
 Tighten retention screw
 Calibrate 3D-printer
Firearm loose in holster (some
movement is to be expected)  Add soft side of Velcro or felt strips to inside
of holster to fine tune fitment
 Source thinner washer or print custom
washer out of TPU (file included)

 Apply Loctite 243 or similar thread lock to

Chicago screws come loose over time
male screw threads

 Use recommended hardware

Firearm contacts hardware
 Make sure hardware is fully seated
Acknowledgments
I would like to thank everyone in the beta room who helped with testing these holsters. Several of
the members wore their Riptide Holsters every day for weeks and provided helpful feedback. I
would also like to say thanks again to Phil Phisher for laying the groundwork.

-Mr. Riptide

Beta testers, in no particular order:

gerald katz WEEGOL Shadowhunter55

Dr. Death Nextlvlroy UberClay
TooAceForThis Freeman1337 joseph smith
plcky_shdw nguyenkvvn potatoze
AZ Arizona Froob Nester
FMDA1776 fu.fu Kenny.N
dogenado clonewar ChadwickTheCrab
mascool RICECUTTA creating reality
Liluzikit Ryan Ratman moftu76
Spicy Noodles Gold Experience digitalnimbus
Frank White TheRustyMosin wop man
Jacob nunya TDKin3D Redacted Kracka
Spot Studios Mojo evro99
DrNokitofa GustavNedic Winchester7mm
ender5plusnoob Kat Tiny vitalshotv2
sticky charlie

DISCLAIMER: “GLOCK” is a federally registered trademark of GLOCK, Inc. and is one of many trademarks registered
by GLOCK, Inc. and GLOCK Ges.m.b.H. Neither Riptide Rails, riptiderails.com, Deterrence Dispensed, nor The
Gatalog are affiliated in any manner with, or otherwise endorsed by GLOCK, Inc. or GLOCK Ges.m.b.H. The use of
“GLOCK” in this document is merely to advertise compatibility with GLOCK pistols, parts, or components. For additional
genuine GLOCK, Inc. and GLOCK Ges.m.b.H products and parts visit www.glock.com.

www.riptiderails.com