Beach
Beach
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A berm is a
nearly horizontal portion that stays dry except during extremely high
tides and storms. The swash zone is alternately covered and exposed by
wave run-up. The beach face is the sloping section below the berm that is
exposed to the swash of the waves. The wrack line (not shown here) is the
highest reach of the daily tide where organic and inorganic debris is
deposited by wave action. May have sand dunes.[2]
Although the seashore is most commonly associated with the word beach,
beaches are also found by lakes and alongside large rivers.
The sand deposit may extend well inland from the berm crest, where there
may be evidence of one or more older crests (the storm beach) resulting
from very large storm waves and beyond the influence of the normal
waves. At some point the influence of the waves (even storm waves) on the
material comprising the beach stops, and if the particles are small enough
(sand size or smaller), winds shape the feature. Where wind is the force
distributing the grains inland, the deposit behind the beach becomes
a dune.
If storms coincide with unusually high tides, or with a freak wave event
such as a tidal surge or tsunami which causes significant coastal flooding,
substantial quantities of material may be eroded from the coastal plain or
dunes behind the berm by receding water. This flow may alter the shape of
the coastline, enlarge the mouths of rivers and create new deltas at the
mouths of streams that had not been powerful enough to overcome
longshore movement of sediment.
The line between beach and dune is difficult to define in the field. Over any
significant period of time, sediment is always being exchanged between
them. The drift line (the high point of material deposited by waves) is one
potential demarcation. This would be the point at which significant wind
movement of sand could occur, since the normal waves do not wet the
sand beyond this area. However, the drift line is likely to move inland under
assault by storm waves.[3]
Formation
See also: Beach evolution
The composition of the beach depends upon the nature and quantity
of sediments upstream of the beach, and the speed of flow and turbidity of
water and wind. Sediments are moved by moving water and wind
according to their particle size and state of compaction. Particles tend to
settle and compact in still water. Once compacted, they are more resistant
to erosion. Established vegetation (especially species with complex
network root systems) will resist erosion by slowing the fluid flow at the
surface layer. When affected by moving water or wind, particles that are
eroded and held in suspension will increase the erosive power of the fluid
that holds them by increasing the average density, viscosity, and volume of
the moving fluid.
Coastlines facing very energetic wind and wave systems will tend to hold
only large rocks as smaller particles will be held in suspension in the turbid
water column and carried to calmer areas by longshore currents and tides.
Coastlines that are protected from waves and winds will tend to allow finer
sediments such as clay and mud to precipitate creating mud
flats and mangrove forests. The shape of a beach depends on whether the
waves are constructive or destructive, and whether the material is sand or
shingle. Waves are constructive if the period between their wave crests is
long enough for the breaking water to recede and the sediment to settle
before the succeeding wave arrives and breaks.
Fine sediment transported from lower down the beach profile will compact if
the receding water percolates or soaks into the beach. Compacted
sediment is more resistant to movement by turbulent water from
succeeding waves. Conversely, waves are destructive if the period
between the wave crests is short. Sediment that remains in suspension
when the following wave crest arrives will not be able to settle and compact
and will be more susceptible to erosion by longshore currents and receding
tides. The nature of sediments found on a beach tends to indicate the
energy of the waves and wind in the locality.
During hot calm seasons, a crust may form on the surface of ocean
beaches as the heat of the sun evaporates the water leaving the salt
which crystallises around the sand particles. This crust forms an additional
protective layer that resists wind erosion unless disturbed by animals or
dissolved by the advancing tide. Cusps and horns form where incoming
waves divide, depositing sand as horns and scouring out sand to form
cusps. This forms the uneven face on some sand shorelines. White sand
beaches look white because the quartz or eroded limestone in the sand
reflects or scatters sunlight without absorbing other colors.
Sand colors
Depiction of sands:
glass, dune, quartz
volcanic, biogenic coral, pink coral
volcanic, garnet, olivine
The composition of the sand varies depending on the local minerals and
geology.[4] Some of the types of sand found in beaches around the world
are:
White sand: Mostly made of quartz and limestone, it can also contain
other minerals like feldspar and gypsum .[4][5]
Light-colored sand: This sand gets its color from quartz and iron,[4] and is
the most common sand color in Southern Europe[6] and other regions of
the Mediterranean Basin, such as Tunisia.[4]
Tropical white sand: On tropical islands, the sand is composed
of calcium carbonate from the shells and skeletons of marine
organisms, like corals and mollusks, as found in Aruba.[4]
Pink coral sand: Like the above, is composed of calcium carbonate and
gets its pink hue from fragments of coral, such as in Bermuda and
the Bahama Islands.[4]
Black sand: Black sand is composed of volcanic rock,
like basalt and obsidian, which give it its gray-black color.
[4]
Hawaii's Punaluu Beach, Madeira's Praia
Formosa and Fuerteventura's Ajuy beach are examples of this type of
sand.[4]
Red sand: This kind of sand is created by the oxidation of iron from
volcanic rocks.[5] Santorini's Kokkini Beach or the beaches on Prince
Edward Island in Canada are examples of this kind of sand.[5]
Orange sand: Orange sand is high on iron. It can also me a combination
of orange limestone, crushed shells, and volcanic deposits.[5] Ramla
Bay in Gozo, Malta or Porto Ferro in Sardinia are examples of each,
respectively.[4]
Green sand: In this kind of sand, the mineral olivine has been separated
from other volcanic fragments by erosive forces.[4] A famous example is
Hawaii's Papakolea Beach, which has sand containing basalt and coral
fragments.[4] Olivine beaches have high potential for carbon
sequestration, and artificial greensand beaches are being explored for
this process by Project Vesta.[7]
Types of beach sand
Fine, white sand made up of pure quartz in Hyams Beach, New South Wales,
Australia.
Once eroded, an inlet may allow tidal inflows of salt water to pollute areas
inland from the beach and may also affect the quality of underground water
supplies and the height of the water table.
Deprivation of runoff
Some flora naturally occurring on the beach head requires freshwater
runoff from the land. Diversion of freshwater runoff into drains may deprive
these plants of their water supplies and allow sea water incursion,
increasing the saltiness of the groundwater. Species that are not able to
survive in salt water may die and be replaced by mangroves or other
species adapted to salty environments.
Inappropriate beach nourishment
Beach nourishment is the importing and deposition of sand or other
sediments in an effort to restore a beach that has been damaged by
erosion. Beach nourishment often involves excavation of sediments from
riverbeds or sand quarries. This excavated sediment may be substantially
different in size and appearance to the naturally occurring beach sand.
Brighton Beach, on the south coast of England, is a shingle beach that has
been nourished with very large pebbles in an effort to withstand the erosion
of the upper area of the beach. These large pebbles made the beach
unwelcoming for pedestrians for a period of time until natural processes
integrated the naturally occurring shingle into the pebble base.
The development of the beach as a popular leisure resort from the mid-
19th century was the first manifestation of what is now the global tourist
industry. The first seaside resorts were opened in the 18th century for the
aristocracy, who began to frequent the seaside as well as the then
fashionable spa towns, for recreation and health.[9] One of the earliest such
seaside resorts, was Scarborough in Yorkshire during the 1720s; it had
been a fashionable spa town since a stream of acidic water was discovered
running from one of the cliffs to the south of the town in the 17th century.
[9]
The first rolling bathing machines were introduced by 1735.
The growth was intensified by the practice among the Lancashire cotton
mill owners of closing the factories for a week every year to service and
repair machinery. These became known as wakes weeks. Each town's
mills would close for a different week, allowing Blackpool to manage a
steady and reliable stream of visitors over a prolonged period in the
summer. A prominent feature of the resort was the promenade and
the pleasure piers, where an eclectic variety of performances vied for the
people's attention. In 1863, the North Pier in Blackpool was completed,
rapidly becoming a centre of attraction for upper class visitors. Central
Pier was completed in 1868, with a theatre and a large open-air dance
floor.[11]
Many of the popular beach resorts were equipped with bathing machines,
because even the all-covering beachwear of the period was considered
immodest. By the end of the century the English coastline had over 100
large resort towns, some with populations exceeding 50,000.[12]
Expansion around the world
Seaside facade at Monte Carlo, 1870s
The development of the seaside resort abroad was stimulated by the well-
developed English love of the beach. The French Riviera alongside
the Mediterranean had already become a popular destination for the British
upper class by the end of the 18th century. In 1864, the first railway
to Nice was completed, making the Riviera accessible to visitors from all
over Europe. By 1874, residents of foreign enclaves in Nice, most of whom
were British, numbered 25,000. The coastline became renowned for
attracting the royalty of Europe, including Queen Victoria and King Edward
VII.[13]
Beaches are often dumping grounds for waste and litter, necessitating the
use of beach cleaners and other cleanup projects. More significantly, many
beaches are a discharge zone for untreated sewage in
most underdeveloped countries; even in developed countries beach
closure is an occasional circumstance due to sanitary sewer overflow. In
these cases of marine discharge, waterborne disease
from fecal pathogens and contamination of certain marine species are a
frequent outcome.
Artificial beaches
Some beaches are artificial; they are either permanent or temporary (For
examples, see Copenhagen, Hong
Kong, Manila, Monaco, Nottingham, Paris, Rotterdam, Singapore, Tianjin,
and Toronto).
Access design
Longest beaches
Amongst the world's longest beaches are:
Ocean beaches are habitats with organisms adapted to salt spray, tidal
overwash, and shifting sands. Some of these organisms are found only on
beaches. Examples of these beach organisms in the southeast US include
plants like sea oats, sea rocket, beach elder, beach morning glory
(Ipomoea pes-caprae), and beach peanut, and animals such as mole crabs
(Hippoidea), coquina clams (Donax), ghost crabs, and white beach tiger
beetles.[3]